Earnshaw's | August 2017

EUROPEAN TREND REPORT • TEA COLLECTION BREWING NEW CONCEPTS • SPRING FOOTWEAR PREVIEW

VOLUME 101 NUMBER 7

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A U G U S T 2017 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher

F E ATURES

Emily Beckman Editor

12 Tea Time Emily Meyer and Leigh Rawdon, co-founders of globally inspired Tea Collection, discuss their ongoing efforts to clothe “little citizens of the world.”

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Jashvina Shah Assistant Editor

18 Trickle Down Theory European childrenswear designers embrace the latest adult fashion silhouettes, palettes and motifs.

Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING

22 The Royal Treatment Randi Siegal, owner of Lil’ Rapunzel’s, blends edgy-yet-grandparent-approved merchandise with southern hospitality.

Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION

26 Growing Up A mature aesthetic for spring takes hold in kids’ footwear, while kitschy details remain part of the mix for their too-cute factor.

Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Ana Novikova Office Administration Bruce Sprague Circulation Director

FA S H I O N

CONTACT INFO

34 Beach Boys and Girls Children revel in the ocean spray, sporting sweet (yet salty) silhouettes in dynamic prints from stripes to sea turtles.

Sales/Editorial Offices 135 West 20th Street Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com

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8 Editor’s Note 10 Scene & Heard 30 What’s Selling 32 Trend Watch 48 Behind The Seams 50 Hot Properties 51 New Resources 52 Final Cut

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CORPORATE This page (left to right): Kate Mack tutu bikini, model’s own bracelet; Submarine onepiece, bracelets by American Jewel.

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EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 135 West 20th Street, Suite 402 price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender.

Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Design Inspiration B

EHIND EVERY CHILDREN’S collection that comes to market is a story that usually begins with a designer finding that often elusive spark of inspiration that sets an entire collection into becoming a reality. It could be a scene from a movie, a song, a painting, a natural setting, even something somebody mentions in passing that ignites the creative process.

Many designers say it’s one of the toughest yet most rewarding aspects of the job. And while creating a new collection involves plenty of market analysis, trend forecasting research and general number-crunching to help determine what’s best for the bottom line of the company and its retail partners, that initial spark mustn’t be overlooked.

Emily Meyer and Leigh Rawdon, co-founders of Tea Collection and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 12), go to the ends of the earth—literally—in pursuit of design inspiration. Since founding the company in 2002 as a small collection of Pima cotton sweaters, the company has blossomed into a full lifestyle collection for girls and boys. The duo has traveled the world in an effort to include various cultures into their collections designed for its “little citizens of the world.” The owners/designers are expanding into tween for Spring ’18 and, marking their 15th anniversary, are introducing a new collection inspired by global communities within the United States.

The challenge of finding inspiration is no small feat, especially when trends today spread virally and are often over before they’ve officially arrived. As the fashion industry adapts to the digital age, trends are not only coming and going at faster speeds but also emerging from varied and new sources. It used to be pop culture and couture runways that forecasted our industry’s next move, but now there’s considerable weight being given to influencers and what they happen to be liking on Instagram or showing on YouTube. Fashion editors, meanwhile, have taken a backseat to these new tastemakers. Even mood boards—an element that used to be unique to the design field—has been co-opted by Pinterest users!

The power to introduce and ignite trends resides in the hands of

the people like never before. Experts point to the rise of athleisure, for example, as largely being a social media-driven phenomenon: a growing community of Yoga enthusiasts, runners and CrossFit trainers posting selfies of themselves basking in their post-workout glows. The popularity of nostalgia-driven trends is also being fueled, in part, by the masses. In a world gone deplorable, consumers often look back upon happier and what, in their minds, were safer times.

Toss in the #ThrowbackThursday phenomenon, and you have a weekly fond reminder of yesterday’s fashions. The retro-a-go-go movement looks to continue into Spring ’18. You’ll notice a nod to ’60s in this month’s fashion feature, “Beach Boys and Girls,” showcasing updated takes on retro polka dots and halter tops for girls and shorter inseams for boys. Also look out for notes of nostalgia in both our European Trend Report (p. 18) and Spring ’18 Footwear Report (p. 26), from round-frame sunglasses and printed ascots to hippie-like flower crowns and earthy color palettes.

Randi Siegal, owner of Lil’ Rapunzel’s in Florida, shares with us in this issue’s Retail Profile (p. 24) the importance of knowing the trends as well as knowing your customer. In today’s competitive retail climate, it’s even more critical for retailers to select trends that will appeal best to their local community. For Siegal’s Palm Beach boutique filtering the market for her resort customer that appeals to trendy moms and still grandparents’ approved is her toughest challenge and her greatest joy. It’s all about accepting the right change at the right time.

However, some aspects of our industry never change. Just like we can expect more re-issues and reinterpretations of classic trends, there are certain retail rules that still apply: good service, a unique assortment and understanding the wants and needs of your target customer better than they do. With that in mind, consider Earnshaw’s your source for keeping up with what’s new and what’s tried-and-true. Our panoramic view of the market serves as a one-stop shopping resource and—we hope—a source for design inspiration. It’s all packaged neatly at your fingertips—just turn (or click) the page.

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

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SC E N E & H E A R D

Hit the Road THIS SUMMER, NICKELODEON’S PAW Patrol is back on the road. Presented by Spin Master, the life-size PAW Patrol Roll Patrol Road Tour will stop in 13 different markets and allow children to explore the life-size Paw Patroller and Paw Patrol puppies. The tour began on July 28 and will stop at various retailers like Walmart, Toys “R” Us and Target across North America. Scheduled United States stops include North Carolina, New York, Tennessee, Georgia and Florida, to name a few, while Canadian locations are still to be announced. PAW Patrol, the popular preschool series, features a pack of eight puppies, led by the 10-yearold main character Ryder. Launched on Nickelodeon in 2013, the show has received a very paw-sitive response and was just renewed for a fifth season.

“As we continue to build an evergreen property, there are multiple touchpoints when telling a story through a franchise such as PAW Patrol,” says Spin Master President and COO Ben Gadbois. “There is a strong collaboration between our Entertainment team and Global Marketing team to ensure we’re connecting with children through positive and meaningful messages, and with the PAW Patrol Roll Patrol Road Tour, we are physically bringing the magic to life.”

The Perfect Pet MEET ENCHANTIMALS: THE new brand of toys launched by Mattel and inspired by kids’ relationships with animals. The line features mythical half-human, half-animal characters accompanied by their best fur friends. Michelle Chidoni, vice president of global communications at Mattel, says the brand is capitalizing on children’s connection to social media by designing the dolls faces to mimic the latest social media filters. Not to mention, each storyline comes with a message that presents girls with emotional skillsets.

“Mattel has a powerful girls’ portfolio, and we are always looking to release new bands with really engaging storylines and characters that resonate with girls,” says Chidoni. “One of the insights

behind the launch of this particular line is we know that animals are often a girl’s first best friend, and there’s something really sweet about the relationship between girls and animals.”

The new line includes five main characters (and their respective pet) – Felicity Fox & Flick, Danessa Deer & Sprint, Sage Skunk & Caper, Bree Bunny & Twist and Patter Peacock & Flap, with the initial collection consisting of 14 dolls and three sets. Offerings will retail from $8.99 to $34.99 this fall, along with the release of a short video series on YouTube. “[Enchantimals] really drives this notion of caring and empathy,” Chidoni affirms. “We always like to develop brands that have a little bit of a bigger purpose.”

Just Dance YOUTUBE AND DANCE Moms star Jojo Siwa continues her reign as a personality to watch in the children’s industry. Gathering over 3 million followers on YouTube and 5.9 million on Instagram, Siwa has attracted a lot of attention from the children’s industry as vendors try to capture the excitement and energy she brings to youth. In light of her popularity and success, the American kids’ television network Nickelodeon has decided to continue (and expand) its partnership with Siwa after such a positive response from retailers for the assortment of colorful accessories, apparel, cosmetics and athleisurewear, released in May. Nickelodeon announced that the company will continue to work with Siwa on her product line, as well as cast her in the channel’s original live-action comedy movie Inside Voice, slated for release in 2018. Siwa will play the main character’s sister in

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the film. In addition, Nickelodeon is giving Siwa her own TV special, “JoJo Siwa: My World,” airing this month.

In other news, another Dance Moms-veteranturned-tween-star Mackenzie Ziegler is partnering with Justice, the largest tween specialty retailer in the world and a division of Ascena Retail Group, for a new line of dance-inspired clothing. Ziegler has helped design a collection of athleisure garments like leotards, leggings, tank tops, cropped hoodies and compression shorts, to name a few, for the new collection. Appearing for six seasons on Dance Moms starting in 2011, Ziegler is now 13 and has ventured into singing and modeling. To celebrate the brand’s launch, Ziegler and Justice created a music video for her song “Teamwork.” The music video aims to empower young girls, aligning with Justice’s brand message of supporting girls.

Q&A Te a Ti m e Emily Meyer and Leigh Rawdon, co-founders of the globally-inspired Tea Collection, discuss the brand’s design DNA, retail community building skills and their commitment to sustainability—all part of their ongoing efforts to clothe “little citizens of the world.”

BY EMILY BECKMAN IT ALL BEGAN in 2002 with three Pima cotton sweaters and a vision of fusing worldwide culture and modern design into children’s clothing. From the art of traditional Korean patchwork to the graphic boldness of Brazilian street graffiti, Emily Meyer and Leigh Rawdon have used their travel experiences to inspire original, modern and consummately wearable children’s apparel from newborn to 12 years. In fact, it was the mutual passion for travel that originally brought the duo together while their now-husbands attended graduate school together.

“It was that commonality—that one vision we both had,” Meyer says, reminiscing over the times she would spend hours chitchatting with Rawdon at social events.

But why a childrenswear company? “The category aligns with our brand DNA,” Meyer explains. “At the time when you’re buying children’s clothes, you’re in a really open-minded place, a soul-searching place of thinking through what matters to you—what type of child you want to bring up as a citizen of this world.” Appropriately, Tea Collection’s slogan is: “For little citizens of the world.” “Tea was built to inspire global curiosity and connection for people, even when they aren’t traveling themselves,” Rawdon says. “It’s beneficial to have that mindset.” The name of the company actually came to mind as tea is a drink shared across all cultures. “It can be a ceremony in Japanese culture, a pastime in Morocco or even a formal mealtime in the U.K.,” Meyer says. “It’s still the same drink—perhaps with different flavors, spices or nuances—but for all those cultures,

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it evokes warmth, wisdom and a time of connection.”

Although Tea Collection’s early years consisted of just Pima cotton sweaters, the fact that those styles were a toss-up between practical clothing and a nice gift item positioned the brand well for product expansion in the years since. “We were able to make quality products and get the right values for them,” Meyer says. “We started with sweaters and sweater blankets, and then by the next season we were out there with printed knits.” A few seasons later, Tea Collection introduced its first woven program, including a collection of sundresses, shorts and camp shirts. “We did that all domestically, which was a lot of work,” Meyer says. (The company has since moved manufacturing overseas as it grew into a full collection.) The most explosive growth phase for Tea Collection came when it introduced its red label, Daily

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Tea, in 2008. The tight collection of mix-and-match knitwear spans casual, dressy and embellished designs. “It’s the print, pattern and texture in the ‘Tea way’ that’s very wearable,” Meyer says. “It brings immense inspirations together.”

For Spring ’18, specifically, Tea Collection is capitalizing on its brand story and marking its 15th SMALL TA anniversary as it launches a collection inspired by global commuWhat are you reading? nities in the United States. Meyer Meyer: I just finished this says the team has connected, studamazing book called ied, researched and visited loads Homegoing. It’s about a of neighborhoods and museums, family lineage from Africa, immersing themselves with the telling the story from genextraordinary people and cultures eration to generation and that make up this country. “Starting how it comes to present with the 562 indigenous Native day. Rawdon: I just read American tribes, we have looked a short story by Michael at populations and immigration Lewis about the aftermath of Katrina. in so many different ways that I hope we capture the essence of What’s inspiring you these cultures coming together into right now? Meyer: I just one community,” she says, adding, came back from a few days “You’ll see a Creole-inspired print in the southern Utah desert, with maybe an African-American and I’m about to spend a graphic T-shirt. It’s about celebratfew days in August in New ing the innovators, art and aesthetMexico. I’m quite enamic sensitivities as icons in our nearored with that landscape ly 300-year history.” and that sense of ancient time. Rawdon: I’m incredTea Collection will pursue this ibly inspired by Lin-Manuel destination story for the whole year.

Miranda. I’m one of the Meyer says development of the fall millions of people obsessed and winter collection, which repwith Hamilton. resents the Northeast and mountain states, has just begun. “What What was your first we’re most excited about is how paying job? Meyer: The our marketing message will show day after I got my driver’s how these communities co-exist,” license I drove to my job she says, noting the team travelled at 16, working at a sewing room that made small batch to Cuba, where it visited Seminole tailored cop uniforms.

Indian museums as well as connectRawdon: Before I was 16, ed with the Latin culture of Miami.

I started a helium balloon “We also went to New Orleans to service. It was much to the connect with the Creole culture, dismay of my parents, who and we visited New Mexico to do some partnerships with specific Native American artists, as well as take a trip to museums and look at their collection of ancient art and artifacts.” Meyer adds. “We then went to Los Angeles, where we connected with the Asian community—Koreans, Chinese, Japanese and Polynesian.”

Indeed, Tea Collection has come a long way since the days Meyer and Rawdon first started chatting about possibly going into business together. Now owning a worldwide entity based in San Francisco with more than 250 retail partners stretched across the U.S. and brand manufacturing partners in Lima, Hong Kong, and Bangkok, the duo never believed their idea would blossom into this business in 15 years. “I never thought I’d be the type of person to even have the same job for

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15 years,” Meyer says. “But the truth is, I haven’t had the same job for 15 years—my job changes and evolves as the company continues to grow; that’s what I love: the change, the challenge and the people who work here. Those connections with real people make it truly enriching.”

LK b b b had no interest in all the logistics, especially being that I couldn’t drive at the time.

What is your favorite hometown memory?

Meyer: I grew up in such a small town where everyone knows your name. I value it now more as a parent, but I still appreciated that deep connection and accountability—that closeness it creates. Rawdon: I grew up in Memphis, Tennessee, and the time I was most recently there I went to this vacant lot that had a couple of guys smoking meat. It was so Memphis.

It’s probably not monitored by the government, but the authentic smell and taste just had so many layers of meaning to me.

What sound do you love?

Meyer: I’m really enjoying the Apple radio station of Electronic Chill. Rawdon: My children laughing.

What talent would you most like to have? Meyer: I’d like to be a better yogi.

Rawdon: I would really love to be able to speak another language fluently.

How’s business been this year so far?

Rawdon: We’re having a great year.

We just launched our fall collection inspired by Scotland and are happy with the results. Swim has also been a great category for us. We are known for our prints and colors, and swimwear is just such a great vehicle for that in both boys’ and girls’. I’m really excited for next year’s spring swim collection, which we’ll be showing at Children’s Club in August. Our sleepwear was another category that’s also performed well.

Was there a specific moment that really helped shape the brand?

Rawdon: After many discussions with retailers about the importance of presentation, we realized it would be beneficial to present the power of visual merchandising ourselves to our stores. The moment came when we got space to set up a mock store to show how Tea Collection could come to life in a physical way.

We invited retailers to come to San Francisco, took them out to dinner, informed them with an educational event—and most importantly, brought everyone together. The response we got was really powerful.

Pictures and images speak so much more powerfully than words, so to see our vision of merchandising the brand together in 3-D was incredibly impactful.

You then expanded on that concept by introducing your Workshop program in 2009. How has that been received?

Rawdon: The community that was built has been really influential. So many boutiques are on their own. They could collaborate with neighborhood shops, but there wasn’t a way for them to collaborate easily with people in the same exact business they’re in. When they shared the common love and partnership with Tea Collection, they could come together and build so many bonds that were far bigger than our brand. They shared opinions around hiring, merchandising, window

Q&A displays—it became invaluable. After such a positive response, we went on to implement more workshops and then started doing them at least once every year. We’ve even taken the show on the road and have held workshop events in Dallas, Atlanta, New York and Los Angeles in order to continue to nurture and build our community with the idea that boutiques are really important in this market. We want to do all we can to help them be successful.

What types of suggestions are offered at these workshops for merchandising the brand?

Rawdon: It comes in tiers, depending on how much each retailer wants to take on. We recommend that you hang it together. We’ve designed it to go together, to wear together, to fold together…so when you hang it together, you sell more pieces. The collection tells a story, and it delights the customer. So while the shop owners provide us a footprint of what they’re willing to take on, we always have suggestions on how they could pull it together. Whether it was paint color on the wall or a certain fixture system or simply a tabletop display and signage—there’s a variety of ways to make it work.

Meyer: I always think back to our brand values where we celebrate differences. This applies to how we approach boutiques. We’re not some big corporation, like a cookie-cutter model where everything looks the same everywhere. How Tea Collection manifests in Berkeley

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is different than how it’s going to come to life in Chicago. We really rely on our boutique partners to be the local experts.

How big a role does social media play in staying connected with your boutique community and customers?

Rawdon: Social media is very important as it gives us this open dialogue and conversation with customers that allows us to listen and adapt.

This feedback comes to life in our product. If anything, to be growing steadily every single year for 15 years is a testament to our ability to adapt and really connect with customers. Ultimately, I think that’s the most important thing for us: really understanding our customer and being where she is.

Care to share any effective strategies to making that connection?

Meyer: Keeping it real. We are very hands on. Our team is engaging directly, and our customer service team is always involved. Our marketing team is very strategic about which messages we want to push out there, but engage when there’s a question and debate to be had.

Each channel has its own voice and its own audience, so we must target the effectiveness of different messages via each channel. After all, we’re on 14 different social channels! Instagram, for example, is all about visuals, and our customers love sharing with us. We certainly encourage them to share their kids and their community wearing Tea

Collection. It’s an easy way to draw engagement. Our Instagram followers also love sneak previews or product details, as well as inspiration and other brand tidbits. On the other hand, Facebook is more excited about the transactional opportunities, like sales events or new arrivals. We often use this platform to lead them to our site’s blog. We give them snippets of what’s out there so they can click through and learn more. The most impactful effect of social media is the opportunity it gives our followers to converse with others nationwide.

Rawdon: Exactly. We have a Facebook group that is by invitation only for stores that carry Tea. There is a dialogue there that’s so powerful— everything from news to reorders to even comments like, ‘Hey, I need a shoe brand for spring’ or ‘I need a new POS system. What’s working for you?’ It’s basically an extension of our workshops.

Digital is critical these days for brands and retailers to reach customers.

Meyer: Absolutely. The ever-evolving cloud is exactly where they are.

They just want to know what they’re engaging with. It’s been said for years how video is more and more important, and it’s just a different version of a story-telling tool people are gravitating to. Not to mention, as new moms come into the pipeline, they’re just that much more digitally native, and you can’t not be there.

Rawdon: Emily actually made a comment the other day in the office

along the lines of ‘it’s not that it’s digital first, it’s that it’s people first, and we want to be where the people are.’ However the landscape changes, that’s where we want to be.

Many young moms today are more concerned than ever about the story behind what brand they are buying. How has ethical sourcing helped elevate Tea Collection?

Rawdon: We are extremely committed to having ethical sourcing partners. We’ve gone through reviews of our standards with outside consultants from time to time to make sure we have higher standards than our peer brands. One thing that has been really powerful for us is our strong relationships with partners overseas. For example, we’ve had a partner in Thailand for 12 years. We’ve become so close with them that I took my family there to visit. My 7-year-old, at the time, walked through the factory, and we talked to everyone from owners to supervisors to the quality team and sewers. If you keep it personal, there’s just that much more trust. Standards are incredibly important, but the personal relationship is what builds that trust.

Tea Collection stresses the importance of giving back. How has philanthropy brought you closer to the community and your customers?

Rawdon: It’s been important to us since the very beginning—it’s >45

EUROPEAN TREND REPORT SPRING ’18

TRICKLE DOWN THEORY THE MINI ME movement marches on into Spring ’18. Brands exhibiting at European trade shows, such as Pitti Immagine Bimbo, Bubble London and FIMI, embraced the trickle-down fashion theory in the form of grown-up silhouettes, au courant motifs and a sophisticated color palette.

While there were playful and whimsical embellishments—like rainbow colorways, puffy petticoats, colored metallics and oversized bows—to be found, many of those trends are equally popular in womenswear of late. Even accessories on display don a decidedly grown-up aesthetic, spanning reflective shades to dainty cross-body bags.

Here’s a breakdown of the upcoming season’s mature couture trends from some of Europe’s leading childrenswear designers. —Emily Beckman

Querida Philippa

PRETTY LITTLE THINGS

Teresita Royal

TICKLED PINK

Dolce Petit

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So much of the “new neutral” was on display from exhibitors that it would make anyone blush.

Shades from dusty rose to bubblegum were popular for girls and boys. Pinco Pallino offered rosy looks in dressy feminine materials including tulle, chiffon and satin, while Teresita Royal, She. ver and José Varón Baño sported more casual versions doused in the season’s It hue.

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Stilnyashka

A notable trend at the show was brands showcasing their own accessory collections instead of collaborations or bringing in pieces from outside labels. Popular add-ons for the season include aviator sunglasses, floral headbands, straw purses and leather satchels. Tuc Tuc, Querida Philippa and Teresita Royal featured woven straw handbags. For an edgier look, leather satchels with studded or fringe detailing were on display by Barcarola and Boboli. As for headpieces, festival style influences were prevalent with thin Boho headbands to elaborate flower crowns from brands like Dolce Aela and Oca-Loca.

EUROPEAN TREND REPORT SPRING ’18

dummy Desigual

WILD WEST Runways ran wild with Western-inspired looks, be it embroidered suede, fringe, patchwork or prairie-inspired dresses.

Barcarola’s runway show featured models in wide-brim hats, cowboy boots and Western-chic attire. Boboli capitalized on the frontier theme by incorporating Native American-inspired styles like a feather graphic tank top accessorized with elaborate headdresses. Desigual showcased rodeo-ready denim options with frayed edges, various washes and a wide selection of desert graphics.

Trybeyond by Mauli

GARDEN PARTY With allover floral prints prominent in womenswear this summer from the likes of Salvatore Ferragamo, Zac Posen and Balenciaga, childrenswear designers have embraced the trend for Spring ’18. Florals, fruits and gingham—and several hints of tulle—give a whimsical spin to classic silhouettes. A lively palette of yellows, pinks, blues and greens is reminiscent of a summer garden and reflects a sweet country aesthetic. In fact, Pitti Bimbo’s theme was “Boom, Pitti Blooms.” Bursting with cheerful flower motfis, brands featured retro flower power to English gardens looks. You’ll notice blossoms bursting from brands like Amaya, Teresita Royal and Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada. >46

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Amaya

RE T A I L P R O F I L E

The Royal Treatment RANDI SIEGAL, OWNER OF LIL’ RAPUNZEL’S, KNOWS JUST WHAT HER LOYAL CUSTOMERS WANT, BLENDING EDGY-YET- GRANDPARENT-APPROVED MERCHANDISE SOLD WITH SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY AND CHARM.

BY ALEDA JOHNSON

R

ANDI SIEGAL SPENT her childhood smelling the crisp paper and fresh ink of her grandparent’s postcard business and visiting the gift shop her grandmother ran in front of the warehouse. And while the Palm Beach, Fla., native may have started her career in The Big Apple practicing finance, it wasn’t long before her retail genes took hold.

In 2002, Siegal opened Rapunzel’s of Palm Beach gift shop (adopted from a childhood nickname) followed shortly after by the women’s clothing boutique, Rapunzel’s Closet, two doors down. With her business booming in clothing, Siegal transformed the gift shop into a childrenswear boutique around the time she had her own children, rechristening the space Lil’ Rapunzel’s and offering trendy clothing and gifts for infants to tweens. The

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650-square-foot boutique sits nestled between a home goods store and chocolate shop on a palm-tree speckled block boasting Spanish-style storefronts and vintage ice cream parlors. (What’s not to like—and shop?) Lil’ Rapunzel’s location in a resort island town means 80 percent of Siegal’s business consists of seasonal regulars—particularly grandparents visiting their vacation homes during the winter months. “We get a lot of snowbirds, so we have a northern customer who understands traditional, southern clothing styles,” she says.

Needing to appeal to a niche customer base, Siegal stocks a variety of designers who push boundaries in some of their designs but stick to fabrics amenable to the Floridian climate. The store carries a mixture of vintage-inspired labels and activewear from Lindsey Berns and Play Six to Malibu Sugar, as well as footwear

KIDSWORLD MARKET AUGUST 9-12 | OCTOBER 25-28 T H E N AT I O N ' S L E A D I N G M A R K E T FOR TOTS, TEENS, AND IN BETWEEN

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(Tkee kids and Native), toys (Patch Products and Magformers) and of course, swimwear (Tom & Teddy Swim and M.N. Bird Co.), which accounts for nearly a quarter of annual sales. None of the items seem “big box,” which is just how Siegal and her patrons like it. After 15 years dressing locals and visitors alike, Siegal knows what her customers want.

SAVVY SELECTION Siegal must walk a fine line when picking merchandise. Grandparents buying for their grandchildren prefer more traditional looks that don’t bare shoulders or tummies. But moms hailing from fashion capitals like New York, Boston and Toronto are looking for something trendier. “We’re trying to find something an edgy mom will like but grandparents are likely to buy,” she says, adding, “It’s really specific, but we’ve got it down.”

Siegal starts her buying process by perusing the children’s lines of the popular designers in her women’s boutique, picking out neutral shades and nautical colors in thinner materials appropriate for southern heat. Sometimes this means getting picky about which styles she picks up from larger designers like Lindsey Berns at trade shows in New York, Atlanta and Las Vegas. “We carry brands

that can be found in department stores, but where they’ll buy 25 different styles, I’ll only buy five,” Siegal explains. Items appeal to a range of wallets too, with clothes selling for between $25 to $60 retail and toys between $10 to $25.

Unlike most stores in warmer climates, Lil’ Rapunzel’s is at its busiest between Thanksgiving and Easter when northerners flee south, escaping the cold winter months. “June through September are our quietest months because no one comes to Florida in the summer,” Siegal jokes, although she notes that summer sales have been increasing each year as she actively grows her local customer base through warehouse sales and social media. As such, she spends most of the end of summer restocking hot sellers and preparing for the coming fall.

When appealing to out-of-towners, Siegal stocks Lil’ Rapunzel’s to have everything that might be accidentally left out of a suitcase.

In the summer that means cover-ups, one-piece bathing suits from Zara Terez, water shoes from Native Shoes or dressier flip-flops from Tkees. When it cools off, sweatshirts from Chaser Kids and warm socks from Trumpette are popular. “People who vacation in the winter and assume it will be hot come in for our sweatshirts—we know it will happen,” she says.

Handcrafted Natural Dolls www.ciaobimba.com /ciaobimbadolls

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CUSTOMER CONSCIOUS on the sidewalk, signs are only Keeping in tune with customers allowed to be a certain size and may seem like a challenge when the word “sale” isn’t allowed durdealing with a demographic less ing peak season. So to attract the familiar with social media, but interest of passers-by, windows Siegal has a secret weapon: her are often themed with matching mother, a retired second grade merchandise displays and catch teacher. Spending four days a phrases spelled in train letters. week at the store, Esther Evans Creating a personal touch, Evans hosts reading time for young will often include props and family customers and even dons a heirlooms in the display, such as Rapunzel wig every Halloween. a photo of her father, who fought It’s customer relations building in WWII, for Veteran’s Day or at its finest. “Literally everyone his 60-year-old sled for winter. ‘knows Esther,’” Siegal says.

Completely immersing herSiegal stocks a wide variety of styles to appeal to Besides her infectious perself in the business, Evans also both moms and grandparents. sonality, Evans is also comattends trade shows in New mended for her colorful window York, knows each brand like displays—often reminiscent of her classroom days. Visual merthe back of her hand and keeps a log of customers who request chandising a window is, in fact, an underestimated feat in light of customized towels or want to see more from a designer. When Palm Beach’s strict signage rules. Siegal says she can’t use balloons new product comes in, she will call or text customers photos >46

footwear preview

SPRING 2018

Nanette Lepore

Growing Up Brands embrace a mature aesthetic for spring, although kitschy details remain part of the mix for their too-cute factor.

B Y E M I LY B E C K M A N

K

IDS TODAY ARE dialed into social media. They know what’s hot, what’s not, what to wear, where to get it—they are literally wired into the latest trends. Such instantaneous 24-7 access extends to an awareness of what the big kids (i.e. adults) are wearing and, not surprisingly, their desire to want to dress the part. What little girl or guy wouldn’t want to rock the same looks as Rihanna and Jay Z? And kids’ designers are right in step for Spring ’18 with collections that are more reflective of adult trends in terms of silhouettes, materials and colors. “Innovations and the effect of technology are the root of many trends,” confirms Heather Dady, design director of Western Chief Kids.

It’s a noticeably subdued offering overall for Spring ’18, featuring plenty of sleek shapes, notes of nostalgia, gender-neutral designs and earthy hues and materials. “There’s an organic influence for Spring ’18, showing lots of linens, creamy colors and more of an

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overall natural aesthetic,” says Jenevieve Froncek, director of product development for Pediped, adding, “Expect to see a lot of simple color combinations and embellishments without all the bells and whistles.”

Of course, there are still some kid-appropriate touches to be found, which come in the form of over-the-top glitter treatments, emoji decals and character themes. Ironically, this, too, is in line with the adult trends as kitschy elements (cactuses and tacos from Kate Spade and pompoms and faces by Gucci) are trending strongly of late. “We saw a great opportunity to do some ‘Mommy and Me’ takedowns from our bestselling women’s styles, including the cactus and gum espadrilles,” says Tara Sabourin, North America general manager for Emu Australia. Likewise, quirky characters, humorous verbiage and trendy fruits are just some of the eye-catching elements of kids’ shoe styles this coming season that will be sure to generate a double tap by friends on Instagram.

children’s world Tsukihoshi

Gender Bender The children’s market has witnessed a growing opposition to gender-specific designs and labels over the past few seasons.

Toy stores, for example, have revoked binary labels and pink girls’ apparel feature graphics of trucks and sports motifs. As to whether the latter constitutes an example of being “gender fluid” is open for debate, but the mindset is that if kids (or parents, for that matter) want to blur the lines on traditional gender color palettes, materials and even silhouettes, it’s their right.

The shift, in turn, has caused brands to aim for a safer middle ground of unisex-driven colors and styles, which presents a win-win for retailers as they can sell the same style to both genders.

Timberland’s water-friendly, two-strap Adventure Seeker sandal is in step with the unisex trend.

Generically labeled under “kids” in the brand’s look book, the sandal is made from a lightweight material with an EVA footbed and 15-percent recycled rubber outsole in a poppy neutral blue colorway.

Merrell’s kids’ collection also offers shades of blue, orange, gray and lime suitable for any gender. Same goes for Tsukihoshi: the Japanese brand is promoting a new knit-upper sneaker in a variety of colorways, showcasing a lime and gray option that satisfies unisex style-seeking consumers.

For retailers testing this gender-neutral market, executives advise that shades of blue (sky to navy) are a safe bet. “Previously, I would avoid using anything that was in the sky blues because it was too feminine for boys and too masculine for girls,” says Froncek of Pediped.

“However, in the past two seasons, that has drastically changed.” She reports sky blue to now be one of the brand’s top five colors in boys and girls, from baby to youth sizes. “We went from shying away from sky blue to now having to worry if we have enough,” Froncek says, noting, “It all comes down to listening to the customer and giving them what they want.”

Nine West Kids

Apparel | Accessories | Shoes | Gifts Décor | Maternity | Juvenile Products

Pediped

Kitsch Up In an Instagram-worthy world, novelty-themed items are an increasingly popular draw. From something as subtle as a trendy fruit or dessert motif to froufrou pompoms and animal faces, designers are using their imagination to add an element of post-worthy kitsch to their designs.

“We’ve been seeing a focus on humor and O.T.T. (over the top) embellishment,” says Sara Louise Petty, trend director of Nina Footwear. “These trends originated from the women’s runways with labels such as Gucci and Anya Hindmarch showing outrageously fun styles with very overthe-top decoration.” Petty expects the trend to be a big hit. “I mean, what girl doesn’t adore fun shoes?” she says.

Look for lots of playful embellishments and left/right stories, like the one depicted on Nine West Kids’ “Edinah” crib shoe. The style’s sleek uppers sport a self-adjusting band across the top for secure fit, featuring “LOL!” and “XOXO” verbiage in two colorways (pink and white). Popular novelty treatments also include dinosaur and shark motifs for boys and flowers and butterflies for girls—not to mention light-up styles. Stride Rite, for example, offers the “Vroomz police cruiser” for boys (a light-up sneaker that resembles a police car and illuminates with every step) and an allover donut-print sneaker with a light-up sole for girls.

Keds is also offering sweet treat prints for spring such as donuts, cupcakes and sprinkles in crib to youth sizes. For boys, the brand’s minimalistic yet cheeky baseball-inspired design of red stitching on the shoe’s white upper is paired with a memory foam footbed and easy hook-and-loop closure.

“I definitely think cute recognizable motifs are a great way to catch a bit more attention,” Pediped’s Froncek says. “It’s important to keep a balance between easily wearable core colorways with the occasional pops of kitschy for accelerated fun and interest.”

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footwear preview Kensie Girl

SPRING 2018

Bearpaw

Nina

The Coachella Effect Drawing on bohemian and Americana influences, organic and earthy boho-chic styles (sandals, mocassins and western ankle boots) feature plenty of embroidery detailing and patterned cutouts in neutral hues. Shades of tan, beige, cream, brown, olive and navy in natural materials like denim, canvas and suede present a sophisticated organic look that pairs well with dresses, jeans and shorts. The seventies-era look is topped off with laser cutouts, embroidery treatments and tassel and fringe details.

Bearpaw’s new Kahala sandal, for example, features a wide forefoot strap with multi-color details and jute braid trims along the outsole

edge, while its Jane sandal comes in a soft faux leather upper (available in pewter or dark brown) and includes floral-inspired cutouts and a studded trim along the blown rubber outsole.

A neutral, earthy palette can be found in Pediped’s new Mary Janes collection built on a street sole. “It’s a more modern look combined with that organic influence,” says Froncek, citing a creamy linen style with a sparkle stripe as a standout. “It’s all about subdued colors with high-end details and touches,” she says, adding, “I definitely see a more mature look evolving in children’s, although you are always going to have your sparkles that sell very well.”

Rugged Bear

Anchors Aweigh A nautical story in the form of sailor stripes, anchor motifs, ocean blues and greens, and studded embellishments on sandals and slip-ons is another trend looking to come ashore next spring.

Plae is incorporating deep sea blues and purples, leopard eel prints and wave-like textures as part of its “Ocean Planet” collection. Emu Australia is introducing a collection inspired by the Great Barrier Reef, featuring pops of colors, light metallics and fun coral prints across a variety of sandal and closed-toe styles.

Nina Footwear’s Petty says “no summer collection is complete without some kind of tropical story.” In addition to its nautical collection, “Mariner,” the brand will launch “Island Retreat,” a whimsy, vacation-ready collection of sandals and slides featuring tropical details like raffia, pineapple icons, palm trees and pompoms reminiscent of a summer in Havana.

Corporate

Mark Zelen, 212-216-6125 1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018

CHILDREN’S CLUB New York City August 6-8

CHILDREN’S CLUB Las Vegas August 14-16

ABC KIDS EXPO Las Vegas October 17-19

Caribbean/Latin America/South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-599-8717

International

Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008

Mid Atlantic

Mark Wolbransky 215-364-7906

Midwest

Al Zaiff 847-607-8543

North East

Bill and Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999

South East

Richard Rubin 404-577-4383

Texas/South West

Annette Cardona-Stein 214-403-7464

West Coast

Teresa Stephen 213-623-8155

Western Canada Jeff Swartz 604-681-1719

Stride Rite

Laura Ashley

Feminine Touch This gender-specific, delicate approach to design includes a washed-out color palette of pastels and feminine embellishments like lush satin and bow treatments. It’s a more sophisticated turn for little ladies who lunch.

Luis Gonzalez, design director at Vida Shoes, says Spring ’18 styles will not be as vibrant or electric as past seasons. “Color is more faded and probably will continue in the direction of a more pastel palette in future seasons,” he says.

To top off the dainty color spectrum, David Kern, vice president of product and design at BBC Intl., says it’s best to put a bow on it. “If there’s one thing that’s really doing well for us, it’s oversized bows,” he reports. “That’s been a standout.” In addition, Kern says that the introduction of the block-heel sandal appears to be a popular, more mature-looking item for the tween customer. “She had been restricted to a wedge or a platform,” Kern says, noting the collection has been expanded for this season. “We are finally giving her a nice alternative,“ he adds.

Other feminine touches to be on the lookout for spring include ruffles, charms, tassels, pompoms and a palette of pink (the new neutral) that spans rose gold to fuchsia.

Jambu KD

Splash Zone Athleisure and versatility continue to be major product themes with parents looking for more features and benefits—particularly the perk of easy cleanup during messy summer months.

“Kids are going to want to play and get their feet wet,” says Naly Lee, design director at Vida Shoes, noting that a balance of functionality and style is key. For the company’s new Stride Rite license, it comes in the versatility of lighted Made2Play Phibian sneakersandal hybrids that feature easily adjustable closures and slip-resistant soles that grip surfaces from pool decks to playgrounds. Vida’s Jambu

www.snapperrock.com | T: 410 280 2364

Plae

KD brand is also joining in on the water-ready trend with a sneaker that includes machine-washable customknit mesh uppers.

Dady says the waterproof hybrid products is an important growth category for Western Chief Kids. “Moms are still trying to stretch the dollar, so they are naturally attracted to a style that’s both a play and a water shoe,” she says. Known for its trend-right rain boots, Western Chief will introduce a new collection of sandals for Spring ’18. The line is built around the motto “wash, wear, play,” facilitating kids’ adventures through summer sprinklers and mud puddles.

W H A T ’S S E L L I N G

www.minoukids.com

I

N THE AGE of online retail giants, Marie-Michelle Gaudreau and Julie Harvey started Minou Kids as an e-commerce boutique that keeps smaller designers in mind. With 95 percent of their brand inventory owned by mothers dedicated to high-quality clothing, the e-tailer focuses on the “extraordinary women” who both shop and stock the site. “We want to tell their stories, and we want to make it easy for other moms to find them,” Gaudreau says, explaining how brand stories are proudly shared on their

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What’s the smartest decision you’ve made recently, and why? Taking the time to stop and evaluate how we were performing, reassess our offer and revisit our platform. Retail is changing and retailers must differentiate themselves and offer a unique experience.

What would you state specifically as the biggest challenge of late for your business?

Discounting too early in the season, which shortens the life of a collection and results in poor margins for us. Many of the brands we work with are newer and don’t have written policies on when we can go on sale, so when a retailer goes on sale early, we are forced to do the same.

How are you working to overcome that?

To overcome this challenge, we are taking part in forums within the industry and hope that our voices can be heard.

What is your most effective way of reaching new customers? For us, it’s not one specific thing but rather combined digital marketing efforts. On social media, we try to be consistent, create fresh content and inspiring ads. We collaborate with bloggers and influencers, and we use various tactics to improve our organic search rankings on Google.

What might be different about your site in five years? Technology is changing so rapidly, so our site could look very different in five years. It’s fun to think about what those new features will be.

Would you ever consider moving to brickand-mortar? Yes! We’ve had some fun experiences doing pop-up shops and have entertained the idea of opening a physical store or a showroom. We like the idea of building a multichannel platform, but we’re an e-tailer for now.

L I F E ST Y L E P H OTO G R A P H Y BY E R I C A A L L E N ST U D I O

Minou Kids

website for visitors to recognize and enjoy.

Billed as a one-stop shop, Minou Kids’ offerings include quirky clothes, home décor and toys. Accessories remains their fastest growing category, with moms falling head over heels for Yarning Made hand-knit blankets and Modern Burlap swaddles. And while it may seem easier not having to create a product display and use proper lighting for inventory, the co-founders channel the same amount of energy into making the user’s online experience virtually flawless.

Well-labeled and easy to navigate, the e-commerce site reflects a clean design on both desktop and mobile platforms. “Our customer’s life is hectic, so we want her to be able to find what she’s looking for quickly and check out with ease across all devices,” Gaudreau says. The duo also aims to keep content fresh by introducing new brands frequently (adding Hugo Loves Tiki and Noah and Bowie to the brand family just this year).

While Gaudreau affirms that sales have been running smoothly and the site is updated regularly, she hints at refreshing its design and unveiling new features in 2018. And Minou Kids’ outreach extends beyond its website.

With a mission to connect moms, the co-founders use all aspects of technological outreach to bring their designers’ clothing and accessories to their customers.

Every promotion and social media campaign uses designs unique to each brand, often partnering with bloggers and social media influencers.

“Customizing our customers’ shopping experience is our No. 1 goal this year,” Gaudreau says, adding that because they’re a smaller niche online retailer, they can more readily adjust to the online environment to keep business booming. “We always want it to be easy and fun for the extraordinary woman to find great clothes for her treasured children—and friends’ children.” —Aleda Johnson

OCTOBER 17–19, 2017 LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER, NEVADA

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My Show.

My business is retailing. That means I have to stay one step ahead of the trends, the competition and the changing preferences of my customers.

My show is ABC Kids Expo, where I get up-close, hands-on access to the products, people and retailing strategies that will help me make better buying decisions, increase profit margins and find broader selling opportunities.

Register today at www.theabcshow.com

TREND WATCH C&R Beachwear outfit

Cool Tropics SUN-DRENCHED WARMTH in bold brights is typically what comes to mind when summer collections roll out. However, come Spring ’18, the kids’ market has something a little different up its sleeve. In opposition to the “more is more” mentality that has swept the racks in past seasons (think heavy graphics, bright hues and flashy details), brands are refreshing their perennial summer motifs with a lighter, more minimalistic approach. Offerings include a fresh palette of icy pastel hues, spanning pale yellow pineapples, peachy palms and sea-foam green waves. —Emily Beckman

Escargot swimsuit

Nina slip-on

Princess Faith bomber jacket

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Appaman t-shirt

SG Companies sandal

Mini Melissa sandal

Siaomimi dress

Henny and Coco sunglasses

Wild & Gorgeous sweater

Autumn Cashmere mesh-knit sweater Watchitude watch

Little Laundry shoe

Egg by Susan Lazar romper

Ă Ā ā Ĉ ƫ ƫ đ ƫ E A R N S H AW S .C O M

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From left to right: Imrie striped swim shorts; 98 Coast Av. printed swim shorts; Sunuva one-piece swimsuit.

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From left to right: Babiators sunglasses, Floatimini ruffle two-piece swimsuit; Snapper Rock hat with Limeapple one-piece swimsuit; Platypus Australia tankini; Babiators sunglasses and Rufflebutts polka dot one-piece.

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Snapper Rock hat and swimsuit. Opposite page, clockwise from left: (first image) Imrie striped T-shirt, swim shorts by Arsène et les Pipelettes; (second image) Paul Smith swimwear; (third image, left to right) Isobella & Chloe one-piece; Platypus Australia hat, Baby Banz swimsuit; Planet Sea bikini; (fourth image) Flap Happy hat, Rachel Riley swimsuit.

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Gossip Girl bikini.

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From left to right: Snapper Rock swimsuit; Soft Gallery two-piece; Little Me polka-dot black-and-white swimsuit; Platypus Australia pineapple print bikini with sunglasses by Babiators; two-piece swimsuit by Hampton Mermaid Company; Kate Mack swimsuit with Rufflebutts polkadot hat; Soft Gallery swim shorts; Sunuva orange swim trunks; Rufflebutts two-piece.

Hair and makeup by Abigail Pilcher.

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H AU T E TOPICS

EDITOR’S PICKS

Tuc Tuc purse

DESIGNER CHAT K AT E Z A R B O C H E S C A R G OT PEOPLE CAN CITE some unusual inspiration for taking the leap to achieving their career dreams, and Aussie designer Kate Zarboch is no different. She started out designing kids’ collections at Speedo and Bonds and later lingerie at Berlei, where the pressure to reign in her bright design aesthetic finally triggered the big move: launching her own label, Escargot, in 2011—right out of the living room of her share house. “Berlei had a big farewell party for me and the next morning at 6 a.m., I flew to Tokyo and Los Angeles to get inspired,” Zarboch says. “Escargot was born.”

Each stitch and colorway that comprises the brand is chosen with “The Escargot Child” in mind: a seven-year-old imaginary muse who loves bright colors, swimming at the beach, shopping and playing dress up with her friends. “We love designing with her and our little customers in mind,” Zarboch says. “Nothing beats the smiles when a little girl puts on an Escargot swimsuit for the first time and squeals with delight, ‘Mummy, it has a tutu!’”

When designing the Spring/Summer ’18 collection, Zarboch channeled summer family vacations and dynamic locales like Bali and Tokyo. Girls’ see vintage floral and sophisticated tropical prints in the designer’s signature vibrant sorbet and neon colors, while boys’ styles are reminiscent of 1960s surfer movies. The collection boasts plenty of girly ruffles, tutus and printed sun tops for sizes infant to 14 years.

Drawing from her experience at Speedo and Bonds, Zarboch uses chlorine-resistant nylon spandex fabric (“Super Resist”), which is quick drying and has a sun protection factor of UPF 50+. A “Mommy and Me” limited edition collection will also debut this spring, and Zarboch is partnering with Aussie labels Minnow and Pouch Australia to create separate beach booties and wave swimwear collections.

Designing children’s swimwear is a labor of love for Zarboch as it runs deep in her upbringing. “As a child, I can never remember not

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Basket Case Commonly referred to as the “basket bag,” this structured beach-ready accessory flourished in womenswear this summer and is expected to weave its way into girls’ collections come Spring ’18. Mark it down as a must-have for your customer’s next #twinning Instagram post.

knowing how to swim, and we literally spent every spare minute at the pool or the beach,” she says. “This makes it so inspiring to be a swimwear designer living in Australia. Long summers, beach days and swimming are a way of life, and my designs reflect this lifestyle as we live the brand.” —Aleda Johnson Is there a “perfect” kids’ swimsuit? I think there is. The formula is great fit + amazing print/color + something special, which can be the addition of a tutu, an adorable detail or a free matching hairband—the little touches that make our little customers smile. If we nail all three, that’s the perfect swimsuit.

What celebrity would you like seeing in one of your designs? I would love Pink’s little girl Willow to be rocking an Escargot tutu swimsuit.

Which designers do you admire most? My favorite designers are Issey Miyake and Vivienne Westwood. I love how unique their style is; they are both so creative, and what they design is unmistakably theirs.

What are your favorite shopping destinations? Tokyo, Tokyo and Tokyo!

What might you be doing if you weren’t designing children’s swimwear? If I weren’t designing children’s swimwear, I would love to be designing houses. My dad was an amazing interior designer and provided endless inspiration when I was growing up.

E A R N S H AW S .C O M • A U G U S T 2 0 1 7

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Q&A continued from page 17

part of our DNA. Back in the early days, when Emily and I were starting the company while sitting at her dining room table—before we even had an office—we were inspired by all these places around the world, so naturally we want to give back to them. It’s very much a mutual relationship. From the beginning, we connected with their founder of the Global Fund for Children, and a portion of all our proceeds goes to support the charity. We share the same values and vision, which is why that partnership has continued to grow to present day.

Rawdon: We also launched the School Days program several years ago.

It’s a way for us to support education in our country. The idea that we’re globally inspired but still celebrate the local community works well.

Where do you envision Tea Collection in five years?

Meyer: I hope that we’re continuing to reach more customers and making more connections—just starting more conversations for families about global awareness.

Rawdon: There are a lot of different ways to do that. One of our initiatives right now is to reach customers with our boutique networks.

We’re hoping to start new conversations with new boutiques, whether they’re new to Tea Collection or they haven’t carried us before or perhaps it’s a brand new store. So much is changing on the big box perspective and the shift away from malls, so we need to cut through that and be there for our customers wherever she shops. To be a solution

to her desires, whether it’s feeling good about how she spends her money, the quality of the clothing that can be shared with siblings or having a useful context and brand. You want your customers to feel good about buying your product.

Speaking of which, is there anything new in the pipeline category-wise?

Meyer: We’ll be making a huge introduction next year to expand to an older age range. This is a strategic initiative as we’ve noticed the need to address older girls in the market. We’re finally going up to size 16 in girls’ and offering more evolved styles. While many girls may have worn Tea Collection growing up, now they will have garments that provide the right kind of edge and trend-right designs that make them feel like their older selves. It also helps Mom feel great about the choices she’s making and how she spends her money.

Rawdon: In whatever we decide to do, we want to always hold true to our values and make sure that our decisions allow us to stay committed to those values and to stay independent. We don’t want to get into any financially precarious positions where we have to make compromises. We are very deliberate, and that means that we aren’t growing as fast as we possibly can, because we want to always remain independent and have a sustainable business that will last for generWj_edi$ M[ mWdj J[W je X[ iec[j^_d] j^Wj bWiji \eh W bed]" bed] j_c[$

continued from page 25 to entice them to come in and shop. What’s more, Evans hand delivers packages to customers on the island in a matter of hours, always taking the time to gift wrap them. “Everyone loves her—the kids, the moms, the grandparents,� Siegal laughs, “She makes so many friends.�

Evans’ attitude perfectly aligns with the boutique’s friendly atmosphere, never pressuring patrons into buying something and committing to quality customer service. Special orders are a large portion of business for the shop, whether it’s personalized items or sold-out stock being reordered upon request. And Siegal’s sales staff is grades above shop girls snapping their bubble gum. They create promotional designs for the front windows and attend monthly meetings when Siegal visits from New York to assess what’s selling in the store. Siegal works with her employees to better understand what customers want. “I rotate which employees go to trade shows in New York and Atlanta because they hear all the comments about what people are buying and see the things we sell,� she says. “They’re not just ‘employees.’�

Ever concerned about the trend of declining sales in brick-

GILDED ADVICE Owner Randi Siegal shares quick tips and cute anecdotes from behind the register. t Best trade show tip? 1VU MPOHFS BQQPJOUNFOUT GJSTU TP ZPV DBO SFMBY BOE DPODFOUSBUF PO MPPLJOH GPS HSFBU OFX NFSDIBOEJTF t Most important part of a brand? 2VBMJUZ *U EPFTO U QJMM BOE XBTIFT XFMM t Your dream window display? 8F TFMM TP NBOZ HSFBU TIJSUT XJUI USPQJDBM GSVJU UIFNFT‰.BZCF B HJBOU GSVJU EJTQMBZ t Best part of being a retailer? 8F EFDJEF UIF USFOET UP PVS MPDBM DPNNVOJUZ CZ JOUSPEVDJOH OFX JEFBT BOE CSBOET t Funniest customer moment? 4FWFSBM ZFBST BHP 3PE 4UFXBSU XBT JO BOE SBOEPNMZ .BHHJF .BZ XBT PO UIF TPOH SPUBUJPO )F TUBSUFE UP TJOH JU JOTJEF BT IJT EBVHIUFS XBT USZJOH PO DMPUIFT )F CPVHIU IFS JUFNT GPS IFS UI CJSUIEBZ

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and-mortar stores, Siegal hosts trunk shows during seasonal months, including an annual show with Missy from MJK Knits.

Her personalized sweaters and monogrammed knit hats are always best sellers, and according to Siegal, kids love wearing them. “The flaps cover their ears, and my kids both wore them when they were little, which made for great pictures,” she says.

WE’RE TRYING TO FIND SOMETHING AN EDGY MOM WILL LIKE BUT GRANDPARENTS ARE LIKELY TO BUY.

SAVVY SELECTION Siegal believes attempts at boosting in-store customer traffic are a better bet than trying to add an online extension to her business.

In fact, she’s already been down that road. The effort, back in the store’s early days, couldn’t keep pace with Amazon, especially after the company gobbled up diapers.com, Zappos and Shopbop. Spending money on web developers and shipping costs while exhausting man hours on online promotions and customer service was not a viable endeavor.

“It did well, but it took a lot of maintenance,” Siegal says, noting that the store’s website now familiarizes customers with the brands offered and steers them to visit the store.

While Siegal doesn’t plan on reentering the e-commerce space anytime soon, she’s a big proponent of social media marketing. Siegal reports that most of the sales Lil’ Rapunzel’s sees during the summer months are generated from the store’s Instagram page, where she posts sales promotions and new merchandise. Helping matters are her young employees who are “fluent” with the platform, tagging brands and engaging clientele effortlessly. In fact, Siegal believes she is more apt to attract customers through Instagram than trying to lure them to an online site. “How many times do you see people waiting for the subway or to pick their kids up from school, and they’re scrolling through Instagram?” she says, noting that her personal page is overrun with sponsored content and includes few posts from friends. Instagram also serves as another outlet for Siegal to let her hair down and showcase Lil’ Rapunzel’s unique style with others. “I often hear how we have brands and items that are different from so many other boutiques and department stores,” she says, believing that’s her store’s biggest advantage and what fuels its success. “I think it’s how we pair it and because we know our Ykijec[hi"È I_[]Wb iWoi$

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J Rosen E: faith@jrosen.net T: 212-221-2349 Dennise Marie E: sales@dennisemarie.net T: 727-204-2723 info@platypusaustralia.com www.platypusaustralia.com

BEHIND THE SEAMS

Sun Savvy Children’s outdoor brand Stonz introduces sun-sational UPF line NO ONE TACKLES the challenge of applying sunscreen to squirming children better than Lisa Will. Founder and CEO of Stonz, a Vancouver-based brand that specializes in outdoor gear for children, Will is also the mother of two little ones who love spending time outdoors. “The less sunscreen that needs to be applied the better,” quips Will. On a mission to find quality UPF apparel for her family that was both protective and comfortable, Will decided to take it upon herself to design sun-safe apparel that meets her high standards. While on a family vacation in Hawaii, Will drew inspiration for the a new line of premium UPF offerings, launching for Spring/Summer ’18.

Available in sizes newborn to 6 years, silhouettes include sun suits, tops, skorts and shorts in four colorways—Las Chicas, Rebel Rebel, Big Surf and Hibiscus. “It’s been difficult for me to watch manufacturers take shortcuts—designing and making products that look like they will perform but don’t,” says Will, adding how unfortunate it is that other companies prioritize their return on investment before quality, value or performance.

The new UPF collection from Stonz has already received orders from major outdoor retailers like REI as well as select specialty stores across the U.S. and Canada. Always having the needs of kids in mind, the collection features four-way stretch fabrics, two-way zippers, high collars, neck openings with snap closure for infant tops and scooped backs for sun protection. Other key elements include two different thermo-regulating UPF fabrics to protect children’s skin and facilitate thermoregulation in sunny weather. The more tightly woven fabric (UPF 50) is used on the torso and arms, while highly breathable mesh with a slightly lower UPF rating (UPF 35) is used on the side panels to ensure maximum comfort.

The UPF collection lets parents breathe a little easier knowing their little ones are covered, Will affirms. “To me, there’s no such thing as bad weather,” Will says. “It’s more the inappropriate gear.”—Emily Beckman

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More Sleep Us Angels expands from party to PJs KNOWN FOR ITS girls’ dresses spanning playwear to special occasion, Us Angels ventured out of its comfort zone for Fall ’17 and discovered an even more comfortable category—sleepwear. After hearing feedback from larger vendors that there was a void in the market for modern children’s sleepwear—particularly in the tween category—Us Angels dreamt up a new line of soft quality pajamas, ranging from toddler up to 16 years. The new label, dubbed Dream Life by Us Angels, ships for the first time this month with a fall collection that includes tight and loose-fit pajama silhouettes, super-soft plush robes and one-pieces for the littlest customers. The bestselling fall print for girls was unicorns, while dinosaurs prevailed in boys’; however, emojis reigned supreme for both genders.

The line can be found at larger retailers like Bloomingdales and Dillard’s, as well as select specialty boutiques throughout the U.S. “It’s not baby sleepwear—it’s more big-kid driven,” explains Hank Shalom, president of Us Angels, noting that even the smaller sizes sport modern prints. “That tween size range, especially for girls, is always a big challenge, and we’re looking to update it so those kids don’t feel like they’re wearing the same pajamas as a little brother or sister.”

In response to the sold-out success of its fall launch, Dream Life

by Us Angels is also offering a smaller Spring ’18 collection to help customers transition into warmer temperatures with options that include shorts instead of pants and more lightweight materials. The spring prints and colors will also be updated to include pastels and cheeky verbiage-driven designs, like tops that read “Messy Hair, Don’t Care” and “I Wake Up Beautiful.” Retail prices for the spring sleepwear line range from $30 to $45.

“It’s a little bit different than what’s been out there for kids already,” Shalom affirms, noting the label’s target customer to be the young and trend-seeking Millennial mom. “At the end of the day, you can get a commodity pajama pretty much anywhere, but if you are looking for something a little bit cuter and more updated, that’s where we step in.”—E.B.

EUROPEAN TREND REPORT SPRING ’18 continued from page 25 Mayoral

CREAM OF THE CROP

Nuditos

The crop top trend has sliced up womenswear styles for the past few seasons, starting with casual tees and shifting into formal red carpet attire. (Remember Rihanna’s Armani Privé sparkling orange crop and structural black skirt at the Grammy’s or Kendall Jenner mixing couture and jorts at Cannes?) Now the shrunken silhouette has trickled down for little fashionistas. From Dolce Aela’s easy-breezy, white, tiered take and Oca Loca’s metallic tops to Nuditos tropical-inspired, highneck number, the exposed midriff looks to be a warmweather favorite by childrenswear designers for this spring.

COLD SHOULDER

Fun & Fun

This season’s hottest silhouette in women’s wear, the off-the-shoulder (a.k.a. the “cold shoulder top”), can be found in dresses, jumpsuits, swimwear and even bridal gowns. The look is trickling down to kids for next spring a la these mini-me looks from Mayoral and Fun & Fun.

SS 18 COLLECTION PREVIEW children’s clothing 0-12 years

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HOT PROPERTIES

Minion Me AKID, THE COMPANY known for creating edgy and stylish children’s fashion popular amongst celebrities, has brought the popular Despicable Me franchise to its newest line of shoes.

Partnering with Universal Brand Development, Akid launched its Despicable Me 3 collection last month. The footwear features the movie’s theme as well as its beloved “Minions” characters.

“As the mom of two young children, I know first-hand the impact the Despicable Me films have on children and adults alike,” Akid Co-founder Ashleigh Dempster says. “It’s one of our favorite family movies so I jumped at the opportunity to create something in collaboration with Illumination’s Despicable Me 3. The entire collection subtly plays off elements in the movie while staying true to the Akid aesthetic for which we’ve become known.”

The new line consists of three slip-ons, two slides, two boots and sneakers—all tied together with the yellow, black and white colorway from the film. Two of the line’s slip-ons are glow-in-the-dark, while both slides feature faux-fur bedding.

All styles in the collection include EVA footbeds. Retail prices range from $60 to $140.

Bath Time KIDS PREFERRED, THE manufacturer of quality children’s toys, is partnering with RJM Licensing to make a splash for the 25th anniversary of classic children’s picture book The Rainbow Fish. Slated for debut in February at mass and specialty retailers, the partnership has produced six story-inspired bath toys, featuring main characters like the Rainbow Fish and the Blue Fish. In addition, the toys will match back to The Rainbow Fish original bath book, created

by NorthSouth Books.

“Kids Preferred is an expert in translating classic children’s books into all kinds of products,” says Rob Mejia, president of licensing at RJM, expressing confidence in the licensee when it comes to anything from plush and melamine to toys and games.

“Having worked with them in the past, I know [Kids Preferred] can translate the look from a classic book into a product that people will enjoy and buy.” Suggested retail prices of the new line range from $8.99 to $19.99.

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NEW RESOURCES

Idol Mind

Jusbe Kid

patti@idolincusa.com » Friends Jenny Boyd and Yan Zhao were stay-at-home moms who loved shopping together— especially for their young boys.

Calling upon Boyd’s many years in the garment industry, the pair decided to create their own line, Idol Mind, which they launched in 2008.

What started as a women’s and men’s private label transitioned into the children’s market later that year, and now Idol Mind offers an extensive collection with almost 250 pieces from seven lines. Adopting Chinese trends, Idol Mind sports a boys’ and girls’ athleisure group and special occasion creations. Designed for sizes 2 to 16, the collection balances youthful patterns with more sophisticated silhouettes wrapped into a bohemian aesthetic.

“We wanted to produce a line of comfortable, playful and soft clothing for kids, like what we’d buy for our own kids,” says Boyd. Each line features a distinct focus, be it tie-dye and fringed shirt dresses from Pretty Little Things, vintage sateen from Spring Breezes or distressed denim and heather French terry from Seasand. Wholesale prices range from $15 to $24.

sales@jusbekids.com jusbekid.com

Sugar Plum NY

carolm@sugarplumfashions.com 212-695-8990 (ext. 204) » Partnering with Sequential Brands Group, Sugar Plum NY is releasing the Heelys activewear line full of lycra legging capris, jersey skorts and French terry hoodies in sassy prints and bright solids.

“We are thrilled to partner with Sequential to bring children fun athleisure wear in quality fabrics,” says Michael Fallas, president and owner of Sugar Plum NY. “Our collection of pants, shorts, tops and hoodies in eye-catching colors complement the Heelys footwear styles we know children will love to wear.”

Available in sizes 7 to 16, the collection has a spirit that pairs well with Heelys sneakers. The girls’ line launches in Spring ’18 with the boys’ following that holiday season in department, sporting and specialty stores.

Wholesale prices range from $9 to $18.50.

» Drawing inspiration from her twin daughters, Angelie Cai used her more than 30 years of experience and her family’s history in the garment industry to launch Jusbe Kid in May 2016. In fact, both her twin daughters can be seen in gauzy tulle and vibrant print dresses as one flips through the Spring ’18 catalog.

Cai says the line’s broad range draws from the diversity of children. “Taking inspiration from how wonderfully unique each individual child is—even in the case of my twins—we wanted to offer vibrant, whimsical and charming pieces for the princesses, preppies and artsy daughters of the world,” she says. “If we are able to elicit the same level of excitement about our clothes from as many different personalities as possible, then we’ve achieved our goal as a brand— not only for this season but for all seasons to come.”

The Spring ’18 collection is more vibrant than previous ones with playful polka dots and bright tropical patterns in sizes 6 months to 12 years. Wholesale prices range from $15 and $30.

Cuclie Baby

info@cucliebaby.com cucliebaby.com » Visiting her in-laws in Lima, Peru, Megan Anderson and her husband fell in love with Pima Cotton. When her sister-in-law had a baby, the pair noticed the prevalence of Pima cotton for children and launched Cuclie Baby in 2014 in Houston, Texas.

“We were familiar with brands that had gained popularity with jersey Pima garments and wanted to showcase the amazing qualities of Pima in a different way,” Anderson says. “We decided to design clothing that preserved a traditional aesthetic and have created a line with hand-finished knit and batiste styles.”

For Spring ’18, Cuclie Baby has expanded its batiste offerings and created a mix of poplin and jersey, knit styles with jacquard fabric elements and new silhouettes for sizes newborn to 24 months.

A layette collection offers kimono cardigans and blankets made from the softest blend of Pima Cotton and viscose made of bamboo. Wholesale prices range from $18 to $36.50.

FINAL CUT

Meet The Tie Guy MOZIAH BRIDGES,15 - YEAR - OLD ENTREPRENEUR OF MO’S BOWS AND FORMER SHARK TANK CONTESTANT, SHARES HIS YOUTHFUL PERSPECTIVE ON FASHION, BUSINESS AND EXCEEDING EXPECTATIONS. BY JA SHVINA SHAH OVER THE PAST few years, while his friends were playing video games and going to soccer practice, Moziah Bridges stayed busy—real busy—as he built a $550,000 bow tie company, Mo’s Bows. In fact, the young entrepreneur, who visited then-president Barack Obama in the White House, began shaping his business platform at the tender age of 9. His interest in fashion began even earlier by watching his father dress in suits and bow ties and deciding to do the same: at age 4, he would bike around a nearby park sporting a suit and tie.

Bridges founded the company in 2011 with help from his mother and grandmother, who taught him to sew. Within the first few months, he created his initial collection of 10 bow ties featuring Valentine’s Day and Christmas prints, which immediately drew praise from friends and family. The positive response catalyzed Bridges to up his production run and expand his offerings to include bow ties crafted from his grandmother’s vintage fabrics (including scraps of old taffeta dresses) in an array of floral and African prints. The material offerings have expanded from ginghams and tweeds to more formal satin and silk styles, all of which are available on his website (www. mosbowsmemphis.com) and in boutiques around the world.

And as Bridges has aged so has his design aesthetic, moving from preppy and classic to more urban and mature.

“When I first started, I had more of a southern charm, and now I’m being more versatile in my style and prints,” Bridges says. And make no mistake, Bridges is both the head designer and chief executive of Mo’s Bows. While his recent licensing deal with the NBA to sell bow ties with team logos on one side and a

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print on the other ($45 a pop) generated a full-court media blitz, he says any whispers that he’s just a cute front man are untrue.

“People might not think that I’m a real businessman based off of how young I am,” he says. “I have to prove it by actually going to meetings and showing them that I am the guy behind the tie.”

Bridges credits Daymond John, CEO of FUBU, for being a mentor. He says John taught him to stay true to his company and believe in himself—a lesson he tries to pass on to other entrepreneurs, emphasizing the importance of having support and staying motivated.

Bridges is currently in talks with Macy’s and working on a partnership with Chevrolet to celebrate the company’s 100 years of making trucks. His (longer term) goal is to attend the Parsons School of Design and then design and launch his own clothing line by age 20, which he has already begun sketching.

“It takes courage and it takes help and support from your family, and you have to be motivated,” Bridges says of how to make it in today’s tough retail climate, adding that a strong brand is also key. Staying true to the brand means following Bridges’ instincts over trends and giving back: Mo’s Bows creates ties in partnership and support of the American Heart Association, St. Jude’s Children’s Hospital and the Boys & Girls Club of America. “I do see myself as a role model, especially since I live in the middle of Tennessee where the norm has me assumed to be a basketball star,” Bridges says, reflecting on the experience of being a young designer in the fashion industry and African American.

“We don’t have to all be basketball players or rappers.”

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