Earnshaw's | August 2019

2019 $10.00

HELLO SUNSHINE! P R I N T S A N D PA L E T T E S P E R F E C T F O R P O O L S I D E P L AY

Tie-Dye Techniques What’s Hot with Sunuva’s Emily Cohen Spring ’20 Shoe Preview

Š2019. All rights reserved Young Soles, Photography by Gemma Booth.

SPRING / SUMMER 2020 Available for wholesale orders.

Contact sales@youngsoles.london for more information.

RUN THE SCHOOL This school year doesn't stand a chance.

sales@ulcapparel.com 212-391-4143

VISIT US AT: Dallas, Atlanta, Los Angeles, Playtime, & NYNOW wholesale.elegantbaby.com @ elegantbaby

Children’s Club Pier 94, NYC August 4-6, 2019 Booth #1437 @princess_daliana @princessdalianaforkids Princess Daliana www.princessdaliana.com 302-203-6188 princessdaliana.us@gmail.com

New York, Martin Schiff (609) 471-6189 • childrenswear@aol.com Mid West, Tony Grimaldi (248) 478-1732 • tonyvgrimaldi@yahoo.com Dallas / Atlanta, The Coffs Showroom (214) 630-9787 • info@thecoffs.com Canada, Jilly’s Clothing Corporation (800) 563-1818 • jillgoldblum@hotmail.com

AUGUST 2019 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor

FEATURES

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

8 Deep Dive Emily Cohen, co-founder of Sunuva, on the value of patience, persistence and unwavering confidence.

By Emily Beckman

EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor

20 The Cool Kids No in-crowd is left out of shoe styles for Spring ’20.

By Emily Beckman

ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager

22 Pool Party Take the plunge on Spring/ Summer ’20 swimwear— style-savvy silhouettes from retro ruffles to ’90s neons.

By Mariah Walker

PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director

DEPARTMEN TS

CORPORATE Caroline Diaco VP/Group Publisher

6 Scene & Heard

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

18 Trend Watch 36 What’s Selling 38 Behind The Seams 40 Final Cut

Carroll Dowden, Chairman

PAGE 22

34 Designer Chat

Mark Dowden, President & CEO Agnes Alves, Controller 9Threads One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 CONTACT INFO

On cover: Sophia wears Current Swimwear bikini and sunglasses by Henny and Coco; Aurora wears black one-piece by Karl Lagerfeld Kids and Henny and Coco sunglasses.

Photography by Noel Besuzzi; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; styling assistance by Khalila White; photography assistance by Michelle Nicoloff; California location provided

by Jackie Culmer.

Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com EditorialRequests@ 9Threads.com

This page: Sophie wears Sunuva ruffle one-piece and sunglasses by Zomi Gems.

Circulation Office One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 Circulation@9Threads.com

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Wainscot Media, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Wainscot Media. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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KIDSWORLD MARKET AUGUST 21- 24 OCTOBER 22 - 25 THE NATION'S LEADING MARKET FOR TOTS, TEENS, AND IN BETWEENS

SC E N E & H E A R D

Ba ck-to- School Bodes Well for Brick-and-Mortar

Geox Kids’ Capsule Collection Supports World Wildlife Fund GEOX IS LAUNCHING a kids’ capsule collection for Spring ’20 in support of the World Wildlife Fund (WWF). For every pair sold between Aug. 1 of this year to Sept. 30, 2021, the Italian company will donate €2 with a guaranteed annual contribution of €200,000 in support of WWF conservation projects designed to protect endangered animals and wildlife habitats.

“The Geox and WWF collaboration aims to raise awareness about the importance of the environment and of wildlife preservation, with the goal of inspiring a new generation of conservationists,” says Mario Moretti Polegato, founder and chairman of Geox. “Our objective is to bring children closer to nature, and show them a new way of looking and experiencing the planet.”

The capsule’s tag line, “Together, taking a step for wildlife,” is designed to help children understand the importance of protecting wildlife habitats and the existence of some of the most symbolic species on earth, including tigers and gorillas often slain by poachers, pandas threatened by deforestation and polar bears being negatively impacted by climate change.

Images of these magnificent animals

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adorn the collection of six baby and six junior casual sneaker styles.

The collection’s conservation theme is carried a step further with a range of sustainable materials and manufacturing practices. They include canvas uppers made of recycled cotton fiber or leather sourced from certified Leather Working Group suppliers and outsoles made of 20 percent recycled rubber. In addition, the boxes and hang tags are made from Forest Stewardship Council paper (harvested in a responsible manner), tissue paper made from pure biodegradable cellulose and padding from 100 percent recycled paper.

“Sustainability and respect for the environment are some of the most critical issues of contemporary society, and ultimately for the future of our children,” Polegato says, noting Geox’s ecofriendly efforts are part of an ongoing process to make its production methods more sustainable across the brand.

“We need to show children how important is to take care of our planet,” he adds.

“With this collection, we’re showing that everyone can make a difference by choosing to purchase more sustainable products.”

IN A RECENT SURVEY by global consulting firm BRG, more than 1,000 shoppers were asked for feedback on where they planned to shop for back-to-school apparel, footwear and school supplies. Over half the respondents (58 percent) said they plan to buy or have already bought most of their apparel and shoes in a store, and 57 percent also showed a preference for brick-and-mortar when it came to school supplies.

Keith Jelinek, managing director and co-founder of BRG’s Retail Performance Improvement practice, suggests that more families are using back-to-school shopping as an opportunity to bond before schedules get busy again. “Back-toschool shopping is a family affair, with parents frequently receiving input from their children on purchases,” he adds. “Consumers enjoy the in-store experience where they can touch and feel the merchandise, so retailers need to be ready to capitalize on the opportunity to impress this important shopper segment.”

Rick Maicki, a managing director at BRG, says retailers shouldn’t take this opportunity lightly. “In-store operations need to be as sharp

as ever—displays need to be compelling, pricing and promotions must be competitive—as this is one of the critical shopping occasions before the holidays,” he says, adding promotions play an important role with more than 60 percent of shoppers saying they will only shop during a sale.

And there’s more good news for retailers: 88 percent of respondents said their financial situations are the same or better than last year and about 40 percent expect to spend more for back to school than last year. According to Maicki, “If retailers can win at back-to-school, they have a good chance at gaining the attention of their shoppers when the holidays roll around.”

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Q&A Deep Dive Emily Cohen, co-founder of Sunuva, on the value of patience, persistence and unwavering confidence.

B Y E M I LY B E C K M A N

INNOVATIVE, INTUITIVE AND backed by an astounding resume, Emily Cohen has every reason by now to unapologetically rest on her laurels. But as long as she can spot a void in the market, this British business maven will never step away from the action.

Beginning her career with a star-studded stretch in public relations, Cohen ultimately caught the entrepreneurial itch in her late twenties. “PR is about making an idea ‘famous,’” Cohen says. “Be it a water bottle, pop star or lipstick, I learned to create a brand around anything, which ultimately inspired me to try building brands of my own.”

Today, Cohen is at the helm of her second multimillion-dollar business—sun-protective swimwear label Sunuva. For more than a decade, Sunuva has steadily expanded from its U.K. roots, where it initially earned credibility through an endorsement by the British Skincare Foundation. Soon thereafter, Sunuva moved into global markets and augmented its offerings from exclusively childrenswear to sun-safe options for the whole family. What’s more, it all comes from a casual conversation Cohen had by the kiddie pool.

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MAKE WAVES Introducing our sustainable swim shorts made from recycled plastic bottles

VIEW THE NEW SPRING SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION AT CHILDREN’S CLUB NEW YORK, BOOTH 813 PROJECT LAS VEGAS, BOOTH 61126 E: usa.showroom@joules.com T: 646.876.3524 Joulesusa.com @Joulesusa

Q&A Even on vacation in Israel, Cohen was scanning the market for her next project. As is often the case, a bit of luck and serendipity led to the concept. While at the pool, Cohen introduced herself to a fellow mother, whose toddler was splashing around with her two-year-old son. Realizing the boys knew each other from nursery school, the moms started chatting and ultimately Cohen commented on the horrid design of sun-protective swimwear for kids. “I consider myself a relatively stylish person, and at that time, I had no choice but to dress my son in some sort of dreadful all-in-one, zip-up piece with Bob the Builder and Mickey Mouse splattered all over the front,” Cohen says, mentioning what an eyesore it was for holiday photos. So, taking her usual no-time-like-the-present approach, Cohen hatched a plan on the spot for a swimwear company with her new friend, Sabrina Naggar, now co-founder of Sunuva.

A chartered accountant for PricewaterhouseCoopers (PwC) who transitioned into designing and supplying costume jewelry for the high street, Naggar brought significant expertise to Sunuva—not to mention her perspective as a mom of four. “Together, we have so much passion for the product and can find ways to meet any challenge,” Cohen says, adding that the children’s swimwear industry is nothing like her former entrepreneurial endeavors.

When Sunuva launched in 2009, Cohen had already made a name

for herself in the cosmetics industry—twice. Just a few years earlier, the thirty-something-year-old and her two female business partners were featured on the cover of The Sunday Times’ business section after selling Pout—a ground-breaking makeup line Cohen created during her time in public relations. The execution was so exceptional, it attracted the attention of L Brands CEO Les Wexner, who recognized it as a fit for Victoria’s Secret. He made an offer to purchase Pout in 2007, shaking on $24 million. “The timing was perfect—right before the market crashed,” Cohen says. “With my husband working at Goldman Sachs, I think he saw the writing on the walls and suggested we take the deal.”

Following the buyout, her business partners took some well-deserved time off. However, Cohen refused to sit still. Less than a month later, the entrepreneur answered a call from billionaire retail tycoon Sir Philip Green to consult on Topshop’s first makeup line. “I couldn’t just lay around and do nothing,” Cohen says, adding that it was much easier the second time having access to factories and contacts in the cosmetics industry. “I had no interest in being on payroll. I just wanted to help get them rolling and then I’d be on to the next thing.”

That “next thing” was Sunuva. Starting the brand without knowledge or contacts in the swimwear market, Cohen and Naggar relied on their curiosity and confidence to learn the ropes. They weathered their share of challenges, but focus and optimism ultimately led to

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PREPARE FOR

Blastoff!

SPRING 2020: ASTRONOMY & CHEMISTRY

success for Sunuva.

SMALL TA Looking ahead, Cohen sees significant growth potential for the brand. “Every three to What’s the last book you five years you hit a milestone read? Little Fires Everywhere in a business where you think,

by Celeste Ng. It’s about life in ‘Okay, what now?’” Cohen suburban America with a really says. “We’re at that point again big twist. where we’re making decisions whether to move right or left.”

What’s the last movie you Cohen hints at expanding watched? An incredible film called A Private War. the men’s and women’s swim categories, leading to a wider What was your first paying variety of mini me looks. She job? At 18, I worked for Frank also expects to tap into her Usher—an inexpensive evenincosmetics background for a line gwear label that was really big of skincare add-ons in the near in England during the ’80s. future. “We’re always looking for new product categories to What was the smartest develop,” Cohen says, noting decision you ever made? last year’s addition of its young Coming up with Pout! It’s how I got to where I am today. teen line (targeting ages 10-16 years). Cohen also looks forward to expanding Sunuva’s presence in the U.S. with a pop-up strategy next year. According to Cohen, the U.S. is the brand’s second largest market, and notably the most important growth market. Sunuva most recently opened a U.S.

fulfillment house in New Jersey, which will allow for more efficient service to the online American market, If you could hire anyone? Natalie including next-day delivMassenet of Net-A-Porter—I’d put her ery and free returns. The on my e-commerce team immediately. brand is also looking into doing more exclusives with Who’s your most coveted dinner retail partners. “Let’s just guest? I’d say my closest friends say we’ll be quite busy over over any celebrity. It’s rare we all the next 18 months,” Cohen get to laugh and enjoy together. adds with a laugh.

What is your favorite childhood Even so, Cohen admits memory? My entire childhood is this past year was particujust the most glorious memory. I larly tough. “Anyone who grew up in beautiful Petersham, says this hasn’t been a chalwhich is in Richmond—a big park lenging year is lying,” she just outside central London. It was says, adding that Sunuva a lovely, non-urban existence. is still up by 35 percent.

Cohen cites particularly What do you do with a free aggressive forecasts and afternoon? I love poodling around the garden. budgets. “I keep very high expectations, so what we think of as a good year is often considered a great year by others,” she says. “This strategy has kept Sunuva growing during even the most turbulent times.”

Despite the pressures of developing and cultivating a business, the

LK

me & henry british boys 0-16

Q&A duo behind Sunuva stays grounded. “I’ve learned to keep things in perspective. We’re not coming up with a cure for cancer, so there’s never going to be a massive disaster,” Cohen says. “You just have to roll with the punches and look at every failure as a lesson.”

What makes a startup successful?

Every entrepreneur needs two things: a whole-hearted belief in what they’re doing—and nerves of steel. It’s a relentless process, and you have to know how to persevere. That means sticking to your mission, and never ever losing sight of it. The minute you start thinking, ‘Oh my God, was this a good idea?’, it’s over. If you don’t believe in yourself, then why should others believe in you?

How do you stay inspired?

Just by looking around! There are so many new, interesting brands popping up. I’ve most recently been looking to Tony’s Chocolonely—a Dutch confectionary company focused on producing and selling chocolate with fair trade practices. The company strongly opposes slavery and child labor by partnering with trading companies in Ghana and Ivory Coast to buy cocoa beans directly from the farmers. I’m really inspired by their journey and growth. Gandys is another brand on my radar, founded by two brothers who lost their parents in a tsunami.

Now they support projects to help orphans.

Does Sunuva participate in corporate social responsibility programs?

While it’s not part of our mission statement, Sabrina and I are very focused on sustainability of late. We’re trying to incorporate more of that into our company. For example, our rash vests are made of Econyl, which is a fabric made from recycled fishing nets found in the ocean. Sustainable practices affect around 50 percent of our product, but I’d like to be around 80 percent by the end of next year. The world is changing, and we all have a responsibility to recycle and use the right factories and suppliers. However, that doesn’t mean you have to scream about it. I think that can come off as a bit contrived. It should just be a natural progression for all of us—moving with the times and fine-tuning. That’s how you grow the right way.

nyc booth #1368 vegas booth #64250 @meandhenrykids

mark@meandhenry.com

www.meandhenry.com

How else have you tweaked your business strategy for the current market?

For years, we’ve talked about opening a retail space. So this year, we did our first-ever pop-up shop in Notting Hill in London. The reaction was phenomenal, and we absolutely plan on rolling out a pop-up strategy for future seasons. Next summer could be a pop-up in the Hamptons, a pop-up in Ibiza, a pop-up in Mykonos, a couple of pop-ups in London—anywhere we can create a colorful energy for four to six weeks in a relevant location. We’re really looking forward to that.

Any other marketing tools you’ve found successful?

I think wholesale is really important. Many customers will discover us at Barneys or Harrods. It’s always best when someone’s never heard of a brand to be able to see it and feel it. That’s how a

customer can really understand the sizing and quality. And once a customer makes that love-at-first-sight connection in a store, they’re much more likely to seek the brand out later online! We also started about a year and a half ago with a catalog business where we produce a brochure that looks more like a Condé Nast Traveler magazine. It’s really a selling tool to drive people to our website, which has been tremendous for us! Sunuva will most likely add a catalog in the U.S. soon.

What appeals about the U.S.?

I think retail is very exciting in the States—more exciting than the U.K.! You guys have all these really amazing independent, multi-brand stores. Some of those boutiques in New York are so innovative with so many great brands under one roof! The pop-up scene is also very strong in the States. I’m always inspired by all the stuff that goes on in the Hamptons each year. A horse show or polo match fused with retail? Such fantastic ideas!

There seems to be an almost frenzied upswing in creativity today. What do you think is the driving force?

Sadly, that’s because it’s getting tougher and tougher to survive.

People are really pulling out the stops creatively to come up with great ways of selling product—like selling swim shorts out of an ice cream van parked on the beach. Anything goes! As I mentioned, the States do it really well, and I think Australia is another frontrunner in creativity.

What’s your biggest challenge of late?

Cash flow. When you’ve got a business, whether it’s in fashion or cosmetics, you’re paying for product months before you get anything back. You have to pay your factories for your stock.

You then show your collection to stores. You order it in four to six months’ time because the retailers order it in June for spring/summer delivery. That can bring about some big cash flow challenges. I think anyone would agree with that.

What can a brand do to help relieve that constant struggle?

There are more things you can do as you get bigger. The bigger you are and the bigger your volumes, the quicker you can demand your production. Rather than waiting three months for your production timing, you can throw it together in four to six weeks, which is what the Zaras and the Topshops of this world do. For me, it’s a lot of planning to minimize risks. That means spreading our buys. I may have four or five buys a year, so rather than ordering all of the stock in one go from factories, I spread it out. This requires a good relationship with your factory, of course. For instance, if there’s a bikini and I anticipate selling 2,000, instead of buying 2,000 at once, I’ll buy 500 in one month, and then two months later I’ll buy another 1,000 of them, and two months later I may order the rest. That coupled with having a good facility from the bank, like an invoice discounting facility, is how I’ve best minimized risk.

Any other recent adjustments to your strategy?

Besides minimizing risk in how we buy product, we’ve been even more careful about not putting all our eggs in one basket. For example, if a retailer puts in a massive order but they’ve never worked with us before, I’d rather give them a slightly smaller order and make sure they come back next year. Don’t bite off more than you can chew! Do what you can, and do it well. >35

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MAKE A SPLASH WITH

Make a Splash with Earnshaw’s Summer Box! Leading up to the Spring ’20 trade shows, Earnshaw’s will ship a curated, summer-themed parcel to the doorsteps of 200 leading buyers nationwide!

The latest swimwear, breezy dresses, bold boardshorts, rad rashguards and sunshine-ready accessories are just some of the key seasonal items retailers can peruse and get a jump on writing orders.

In addition to detailed information of each participating brand, the Earnshaw’s Buyer Box will include a copy of our August “Swim” issue that dives deep into the season’s hottest trends, latest launches and business strategies.

Limited space available.

Secure your spot today!

Contact Noelle.Heffernan@9Threads.com for details.

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

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TREND WATCH

To Dye For FROM MELLOW YELLOW to purple haze, tie-dye is all the rage.

The trippy pattern can be found on T-shirts, dresses, backpacks and even Frappuccinos. —Emily Beckman

Pink Peony Kids bubble

Iscream leggings

Bearington Collection plush

Appaman

Zomi Gems purse

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Sweet Wink tutu

MIsh Boys shirt

Tocoto Vintage shorts

Molo tiered skirt

Baby Jar hooded towel

Eddie Pen pullover

Sunuva romper

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

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shoe preview

SPRING / SUMMER 2020

The Cool Kids No in-crowd is left out as designers deliver a range of seasonally appropriate styles.

B Y E M I LY B E C K M A N

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STYLE GURU An expert at scroll-stopping fashion, this trendsetter understands the importance of detail—starting from the ground up. Bright colors, bold patterns and a plethora of pretty embellishments will make every summer look worthy of a double tap.

Nina Jessica Simpson

Twisted X

Kenneth Cole

Michael Kors

Sperry

LIL’ YACHTY

Joules

Be it boating, badminton or basking poolside at the country club, this prepster maintains a prim and proper aesthetic with classic silhouettes, summer hues and nautical details.

Izod

Livie & Luca Khombu Keds

Beverly Hills Polo Club

Sam Edelman

Sporto Saucony

BEACH BUM Bathing suit on and beach bag packed, this youngster will hit the sand from sunup to sundown. Shimmering scales, daunting dorsal fins and crabby crustaceans add summery sizzle to sneakers and sandals.

Laura Ashley

Emu Australia

Keen Western Chief

Merrell

ADVENTURE SEEKER

Joseph Allen FishFlops

With a jam-packed summer full of climbing trees, riding bikes and chasing ice cream trucks, all-terrain kicks are essential for a high-energy explorer.

Keeping it practical with durable outsoles, breathable uppers and—Mom’s favorite feature—easy-to-wash materials, there’s nothing this kid can’t do!

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

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From left: Marissa wears pink C H L O É

TAKE THE PLUNGE ON SPRING / SUMMER ’20 SWIMWEAR—STYLE-SAVVY SILHOUETTES FROM RETRO RUFFLES TO ’90S NEONS.

one-piece; Kate wears M O L O bikini top and shorts; Maddie wears ruffled B I L L I E B L U S H suit; Aurora wears floral one-piece by S U B M A R I N E .

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DESIGNER CHAT ASHLEY HENSLEY

BY ALEDA JOHNSON

STRADDLING THE BORDER of classic and contemporary, Smocked Polka Dot designerAshleyHensley has the unique ability to please a genteel grandma and a metropolitan mom. Drawing inspiration from her traditional wardrobe as a child and fusing it with her experiences as a mother of three, Hensley offers timeless silhouettes like bishop dresses, aprons and bloomer sets in updated fabrics, prints and colors.

“You’d be surprised how much you can do with traditional smocked clothing,” Hensley says, citing fun ways she incorporates classic details such as gingham, stripes, ruffles and bows. “Smocked Polka Dot is a constant adventure in making each collection more creative than the last.”

Successfully selling direct-to-consumer for five years, Hensley is now looking to expand Smocked Polka Dot’s distribution beginning next spring to retailers nationwide. “My plan has always been to learn the ropes and build a strong foundation before expanding into wholesale,” she says, adding that Smocked Polka Dot has grown a social media following of nearly 20,000 fans to date. “With such positive feedback from customers—and even some requests from retailers—I feel very ready to take that next step.”

Loaded with personality, the Spring ’20 collection uses playful polka dots and animalthemed prints to accent an assortment of pastels, knits and soft florals in sizes 3 months to 8 years. The brand has also expanded its boys’ offerings to include polos, Henleys and baseball tees up to size 10. “I want to capture the attention of moms with older boys who don’t want smocking,” Hensley says.

What’s more, Hensley is developing several exclusive designs available for select retailers. “When I decided to step into wholesale, I knew I’d need to offer something special to my customers,” she says. The designer even removed her most popular baby bundle gift set from the brand’s website, so it could be exclusively sold by her partners. “When it comes to business, especially retail, it’s all about team,” Hensley says. “If everyone puts in 110 percent, that’s how we’ll all succeed!”

What’s your all-time favorite Smocked Polka Dot design? Our twirl dresses because my daughter loves them so much. It’s so fun to watch her put one on and pretend she’s a ballerina. I also love our rosebud smocked bishop dress with seed pearl details. It’s quite beautiful.

Who is a designer you admire? I’ve always loved Coco Chanel because of that classy and timeless little black dress. She once said, ‘Luxury must be comfortable, otherwise it’s not luxury.’ I keep that in mind when designing clothes, especially when my customers are children who certainly won’t put up with itchy material. The minute they start fussing, it’s game over.

What do you love most about being a designer? I will get messages from customers, or they’ll post photos on our Facebook page of their kids in our clothes, especially for Christmas or birthdays. Hearing customers so grateful for one of my designs that helped make a special day in their lives even more so will never get old. It’s a feeling beyond words.

What’s next on your to-do list? Quite a bit! I recently started the Seecaas Hope Adoption Foundation where we donate $1 of every purchase to help parents struggling with adoption fees. My two youngest children are adopted, so I understand what a huge roadblock finances can be. If my designs could help wave those fees for even two or three families a year, that would be incredible. I’m even coming out with a women’s shoe line soon to help raise more money for the cause—and offer the moms who shop Smocked Polka Dot a little something for themselves!

What advice do you have for someone who wants to become a designer? Follow your heart. I was a psychology major who started a family and fell in love with the children’s fashion industry. I had no idea becoming a designer was in the cards for me, but everything just fell into place from always trusting my gut and doing what I enjoy. Some days will be tough, but remember to keep fighting. And most of all, have fun!

Q&A continued from page 13 We’ve definitely made that mistake along the way. A situation comes along when somebody places a fantastic order, and you’re thinking, “Oh, great! So-and-so has placed a £50,000 order!” But then they don’t come back next season because they’ve got stock left over. You learn that it’s better to have them place a £25,000 order and be able to help them out through the season.

How does Sunuva maintain its reputation as a reliable retail partner?

We never short-ship and never deliver late. We also offer stock swaps if retailers need them. We’re always there on hand to help our partners maximize the fact that they’re getting great sellthroughs with us. For a brand, it should never be about getting into one Barneys store; your goal should be to make it in all 10!

The only way to do that is to have great sell-throughs, and that comes with providing great service.

Why should retailers consider your Spring ’20 collection?

Because it’s our best collection yet! We’ve really fine-tuned what works, what people want and what merchandises well together.

We’ve eliminated that ego stuff you put in just because you love it as a designer, but it doesn’t always sell. We’ve got a particularly strong baby collection this season with specific baby prints and products. The main lines for kids work very well together, chosen with my ‘either/or approach.’ If we hold up two pairs of shorts and it’s an ‘either/or’ then something’s got to go. Nothing can be either/or. It should be you buy both!

Any other business goals in the pipeline?

We’re always looking at new product categories to develop. Last year, we launched a young teen line, targeting 10- to 16-year-olds.

That’s been really amazing, so we plan on expanding that. For our women’s category, we look forward to offering more matchymatchy caftans. Of course, the pop-up strategy for next year will be exciting and more growth in the States. And with the U.S. being our second-largest market, we’ve recently opened a fulfillment house in New Jersey to more quickly and effectively service the online American market. That means next-day delivery and free returns! More opportunities for exclusives are also on our radar.

CELEBRATING 75 YEARS IN 2020

How do you envision the childrenswear market in five years?

At retail, it’s all going to be multi-brand. Big price jumps will also be important, so you can buy your $200 dress or your $25 flip-flops at the same location. Because as a mom, however much money you may or may not have, you’re always going to want to buy something for your little one—be it for a party, camp season or both! And isn’t it great to have it all under one roof?

What about Sunuva’s future specifically?

With sun protection only becoming more popular, we are positioned for great growth! People were not nearly this educated when we started, so now everyone is looking for the best rash vest, accessories and SPF lotions. So we plan to continue serving that demand with our above-and-beyond product. There’s a lot

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W H A T ’S S E L L I N G

Peaches Savannah, GA FTER THREE FRUITFUL years as a one-stop online boutique, Peaches is opening its first brick-and-mortar store in Savannah, GA, this fall. Partnering with another independent, woman-owned business that specializes in fine linen, interiors and monogramming, Peaches owner Rebecca Bustinduy anticipates more sweet success.

“We’re not just selling clothing, toys and books,” she says. “We’re creating a beautiful lifestyle each customer can experience when they shop with us.”

The bi-level retail space will include Peaches’ well-curated assortment of high-end clothing and gifts from brands like Rachel Riley, Petit Bateau and Little English on the first floor that complement the selection of linens and home interiors upstairs. “This concept will provide a nice overlap between our brands, inspiring and satisfying customers whether they’re shopping for clothing, customized gifts or children’s interiors,” Bustinduy says, adding that there will be many opportunities for personalizing product. “It’s a great way to hold onto customers as long as possible.”

Bustinduy has already tested the local market with a few holiday pop-ups.

“The response was phenomenal,” she reports. “I’m excited to not only reach more Savannah shoppers but tourists that can continue to shop with us online.” Bustinduy adds, “We want to keep customers coming back for years to come!” —Aleda Johnson

George and Princess Charlotte wears becomes instantly popular among parents. Lullaby Set is another tremendous asset. Even as an old-school brand that could’ve been wary of an online-only store, they’ve been nothing but supportive since day one. Little English is another top seller with moms regularly direct messaging us on Instagram looking for specific pieces. And when it comes to toys and plush, Bunnies By the Bay and Melissa & Doug have been killing it.

What are some popular trends of late? Anything that can be monogrammed. Not being from the South, I didn’t realize how big monogramming was here. It creates an instant heirloom, adds a sense of significance and makes for a meaningful gift. For example, we do a lot of monogrammed blankets, and Lands Downunder makes the yummiest throws ever for nursery. A kid will have that blanket forever!

What are you looking to add to the mix? We’re always looking for fresh, new brands—the kind that no one else carries. Colorful and beautiful giftables are always on my radar, but customers have also asked for easy, everyday outfits they can just throw in the wash. So it’s really a balance between special items and reliable core pieces.

What’s the most important lesson you’ve learned since launching Peaches? You can’t be everything How’s business? It’s going well. As the to everybody. There will always be landscape grows more competitive, we’ve something someone else has that you been putting a lot of effort into offering don’t—and that’s okay! There will also After three years selling online, Peaches is opening an exciting experience that keeps us be times you’re disappointed with its first brick-and-mortar store this fall. ahead of the curve. For instance, we’re a decision you made. At the end of completely overhauling our website. the day, it’s important to remember There was nothing necessarily wrong everything happens for a reason, with it, but we saw room for improvement. For example, we’re going and you should always be proud of the brands you carry and the to be rolling out a new feature where customers can shop by theme at customers who continue to support you. a glance. Our custom monogram option is also quite popular online for an easy one-click shopping experience that customers love. It’s just Any other advice for fellow retailers? Hire out what you’re not part of our constant effort to do better for our customers. good at. It’s really hard as a small business owner because you’re used to covering all the roles yourself, but there’s just not enough time in Who is the Peaches customer? We have a large local following, the day. It’s scary to relinquish control, but hiring out my weaknesses but the majority of our online sales come from major metropolitan has been life-changing. We’ve found some fantastic people, and it’s areas like New York, Chicago, Dallas and San Francisco. Our core really helped grow the business more efficiently. demographic is modern parents who shop at upmarket boutiques like Net-A-Porter. So we try to simulate that same luxurious experience Where do you see Peaches in five years? To start, I’m really when it comes to shopping for their kids. excited to see the reception we get this fall at the store. We’re also planning on more travelling pop-ups up the coast, probably starting What are some of your best-selling brands? Rachel Riley has done with an exciting summer series. Anything to get face time with our incredibly well because of the British royal family. Whatever Prince customers is of utmost importance.

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BE THE BUYER

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

The Finer Things Celine Hakoun, founder and CEO of 3-2-1 Framboise, on doing the research, loving the process and never settling.

EURO CLASS I exclusively purchase labels designed in Europe.

If a brand is manufactured in China, I’m not interested.

While it may seem picky, it’s a formula that works. The strict filtering of brands from the get-go allows me to confidently provide exceptional quality and superior design, season after season.

CORNERSTONE COLLECTIONS Customers

demand a lot of variety, which is hard to provide on a six-month cycle. To satisfy this craving for newness, more brands are offering permanent collections.

This has been so helpful to refresh looks more regularly. It’s also been a positive for my budget!

TRICKS OF THE TRADE SHOW I do tons of

HOME RUNS Dresses La Queue du Chat Shower Gifts Little Label Girls’ Playwear Petit Lucas du Tertre

Boys’ Playwear homework before I attend any show. I’ll Arsène et les research every exhibitor, look at reviews Pipelettes to see what people are saying online and ultimately, I’ll compile a list of booths to hit. If you don’t do this before a show, you’re probably wasting a lot of valuable time and missing some really spectacular finds.

If you’re not careful, a new season can end up a customs nightmare. Just because European designers are willing to bring their collections stateside doesn’t mean they’ve completed the tedious process and paperwork it takes to do so. Even if I fall in love with a new label, I’ll wait patiently for a year before purchasing it. It’s better to sit out the first round than put yourself at risk.

EXPORT ADVICE

STORYTIME I’ve noticed a growing appreciation for crafts-

manship and authenticity among my customers, which is incredibly exciting as a buyer. It allows me to uncover the heart and soul behind a collection and convey that story. A recent example is a modern, well-structured line I spotted at Playtime Paris. Turns out it was designed by two former architects. What a cool selling point! w w w. i l o v e p l a y t i m e . c o m

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BEHIND THE SEAMS

Hot Stuff BlueQuail Clothing protects with sun-safe styles.

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CONSTANTLY SLATHERING ON messy sunscreen, Texas mom Amanda Lundgren searched the market for better options to keep her twin boys safe from the sun. Unsatisfied by the selection she found, which mostly consisted of a few overseas brands, the momprenuer decided to launch her own collection in 2017.

“When my dad had his skin cancer removed, I was reminded how important it is to take sun protection seriously from a young age,” Lundgren says. “The kids are constantly outside playing at our ranch, which means I needed a solution that keeps them protected for long periods of time.”

Made from naturally stain-resistant, lightweight, quick-dry fabric, Lundgren designs every garment to have UPF 50+ protection. What’s more, her bold creativity sets her styles apart, offering brightly colored boys’ button-downs awash with custom crawfish and fly fishing prints. “I get most of my inspiration from what’s popular in the adult male fashion space,” she says. “I even draw ideas from my husband’s favorite shirts.”

Within 24 hours of her look book going live, Lundgren was contacted by a showroom in Dallas that wanted to rep her. “In a week, I met my wholesale minimums and went to market the following August,” she says, adding that BlueQuail Clothing is a win-win for everyone. “Not only is it safer, but it beats the fight of reapplying sunscreen to a squirming child,” she says.

Subsequent seasons have introduced the Guayabera collection, inspired by the Cuban Wedding shirt, and the Ranching collection sporting a quilted shoulder patch ($44-48 SRP). While most styles are considered unisex, BlueQuail is expanding into girls’ dresses ($60 SRP) and colorful performance polos for Spring ’20, while adding fun prints of flamingos, tiny canoes, golf carts and hand-painted watercolors, BlueQuail is also.

Looking ahead, the founder aims to expand distribution into more areas where families spend a lot of time outdoors, like coastal towns and mountain resorts and expanding its size range up to 12 years. “We’re even planning to add a few men’s options,” Lundgren says, citing a lot of recent requests for mini me matching.

“It comes down to listening closely to our customers,” she adds.

“That’s how we plan to grow most effectively.” —Aleda Johnson

Making a Splash Cosmo Crew Kids’ ethical and sustainable swimwear comes ashore.

AFTER A SERIES of successful pop-ups across Australia and Hong Kong, eco-conscious swimwear brand Cosmo Crew Kids is coming stateside for Spring ’20. Buoyed by the growing demand for sustainable swimsuits, Australian cofounders Nicci Chalmers and Sarah Wilkinson are targeting resort areas first.

“We are strong believers in the anti-fast fashion movement, so we created a brand that gives the sustainability experience to children while protecting the environment and encouraging outside play,” Chalmers says.

With the exception of the brand’s beach shorts, which are 100-percent organic cotton, every Cosmo Crew style is made with Italian Carvico. A combination of Lycra Xtra Life and Econyl, the unique material comes from recycled fibers such as fishing nets and plastic bottles recovered from the ocean.

What’s more, every garment includes UPF 50+ protection and great resistentance to chlorine, sand, sunscreen and oils.

“It’s refreshing to see more buyers asking about non-toxic dyes and where and how garments are made,” Chalmers says, adding the key to any eco-friendly brand’s success is offering superior quality at an affordable price point. “Not many brands retail between $40 and $60 and use eco-friendly fabric that lasts through kids’ outdoor adventures,” she says. “My kids are still wearing our first prototypes without any fading or changes to the shape.”

While the message about sustainable design is serious business, Cosmo Crew’s designs are all fun. For example, this season’s Deep Sea Disco collection offers an upbeat ocean theme of bright tropical colors and nautical details. “It’s a cheerful ode to keeping the oceans clean and highlighting the importance of reducing plastic in our lives,” Chalmers says. Looking ahead to Spring ’20, the Seasonal Sway collection invites kids to dance in the rain and meander through meadows with designs inspired by the magic of Mother Nature. Reflecting all four seasons, the collection comes in a wide range of winter blues to spring florals on board shorts to bikinis.

“What’s better than having great style is the feeling you’re giving back,” Chalmers says. “We’re proud to offer parents the opportunity to purchase the summer fashion they love while contributing to the cleaner future their kids deserve.” —A.J.

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FINAL CUT

Bless His Heart Eleven-year-old Jahkil Jackson’s nonprofit Project I Am lends a hand to people in need, whenever and wherever. By Emily Beckman CHICAGO NATIVE JAHKIL JACKSON has yet to travel outside the United States, but that hasn’t stopped the soon-to-be seventh grader from touching the lives of people in need around the world. Since 2016, Jackson’s non-profit, Project I Am, has put together Blessing Bags (consisting of basic toiletries and snacks) and then distributed them to homeless people in Chicago, orphans in Swaziland and volcano victims in Guatemala, among other places. By the time school starts this fall, Jackson will have given out more than 20,000 Blessing Bags, and the young philanthropist has no intentions of stopping—there are too many people in need.

“I don’t let my family go anywhere without Blessing Bags in the car,” Jackson says.

“You never know when you’re going to see someone who needs help.”

Jackson’s mission to help others started at age 5 when his great-aunt took him to serve soup to homeless people camped out along Chicago’s Lower Wacker Drive. “After that experience, I would beg my mom to let me give money every time I saw a homeless person,” he says. “Eventually, she told me if we kept giving cash to everyone in need, we’d be broke ourselves.” So Jackson created a more sustainable solution with Project I Am. Each month hundreds of donations are collected, sorted, bagged and distributed.

Jackson often enlists the help of family and friends by organizing “packing parties.” He has also recently launched his own clothing label, Trophies, to sell on Project I Am’s website to fund the purchase of toiletry items.

Jackson’s noble efforts have not gone unnoticed. In 2016, he was named a Youth Ambassador for Heartland Alliance, one of the world’s leading anti-poverty organizations, and the following year, he became a member of the International Youth Council, a not-for-profit civil society organization dedicated to giving young people across the world both collective voice and a mechanism to support global sustainable development.

Jackson was acknowledged as one of the three influential people of 2017 by former president Barack Obama and the Obama Foundation, and he participated in Disney’s

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edly that Kid Box will be donating $10,000 worth of new clothing for the organization to give to shelters in Chicago. For Jackson, the drive to help as many people possible is always the top priority. He plans to extend Project I Am’s reach through speaking engagements and the expansion of his clothing label beyond the current assortment of shirts, fidget spinners and hats. “We’re already global, so I guess my main goal is to become more global,” Jackson says. “It’ll always be about helping as many people as I can, because there’s always more you can do.”

What’s it like being a clothing designer?

It’s fun! Everything I design is clean and fresh. For example, I have a shirt that says ‘Fresh’ with a deodorant graphic on it! But my main goal isn’t to be a designer; it’s to help people. I just appreciate good fashion.

FA S T FAV E S School Subject: science and social studies Movie: Uncle Drew TV Show: “Henry Danger” Book: The Lemonade Ripple by Paul Reichert Videogame: 2K19 Athlete: Giannis Antetokounmpo Color: royal blue Restaurant: Steak ‘n Shake

Be Inspired Black History Campaign, Lebron James’ #AlwaysBelieve 2018 campaign and Nike’s 2019 Future Varsity program that provides leadership training to people creating positive change in the world. Jackson also became one of the 19 U.S. recipients of the Diana Award on what would have been Princess Diana’s 58th birthday, and this year was appointed to the board of directors of Kid Box, the children’s fashion subscription box company.

“I’m so grateful for all the attention Project I Am is getting,” Jackson says, adding excit-

How would you describe your personal style? I like to look sharp, whether I’m wearing a cool athletic look or a suit. I also like to match sneakers with my suits!

What are some of your favorite brands?

Nike, Supreme, Champion, Vans and Fila are a few of my favorites. I’ll usually throw on a Nike jogging suit because it’s so comfortable.

I don’t like my outfits to have a lot going on.

Do you primarily shop online or in-store?

My mom shops online for me, but we’ll sometimes go to a store together.

What’s your favorite store? The Nike store!

It’s five floors of heaven. The employees are so nice, and the clothing is folded neatly. Nike really knows how to present itself perfectly.

What do you like to do when you’re not busy helping others? I love basketball.

I’ve also been tap dancing since I was 4 and breakdancing since I was 7.

Where do you see yourself in five years?

Applying for college scholarships and getting my driver’s license! I’d also like to travel to some of the foreign places I send my Blessing Bags. I’d love to start with a trip to Africa.