Earnshaw's | December 2013

SHOWS TO SHOP IN 2014

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GIVE BACK WITH GOOD360

VOLUME 97 NUMBER 10 • NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 201 3 $10.00

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SPRING SPORTSWEAR SHAPES UP

INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW

JUMP FOR JOY

OUR 2013 EARNIE WINNERS REVEAL THE SECRETS TO SUCCESS

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NOV/DEC 2013

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

FEATURES

EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor

12 Time to Buy With a locale to fit every buying style, rely on our guide to next year’s best trade shows.

Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Social Media Editor Brittany Leitner Assistant Editor

20 Good Stuff Looking to give back by donating your excess inventory? Good360 wants to make it easier than ever.

ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher

34 Seal of Approval From stellar customer service to inventive design, our Earnie honorees reveal what made their brands resonate with retailers in 2013. Bravo to the winners!

Alex Marinacci Account Executive Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

42 Tough Bunny Miki Brugge’s mix of Southern hospitality and retail savvy is what makes this Hall of Fame winner’s Tennesee store so successful.

Mike Hoff Webmaster

43 Queen Bee Thanks to her eye for buzz-worthy brands, Hall of Famer Honey Smith’s 30-year-old showroom is still a tween dream.

FASHION 24 Play Day Brooklyn’s cobblestone streets are perfect for spring sportswear’s bold shapes and bright colors.

CLARIFICATION: In our October issue, the phrase "Arm's Reach" was used as headline in our Ultimate Gear Guide. It should be noted that ARMS REACH is a trademark of Arm's Reach Concepts, Inc., and is no way affiliated with the product mentioned below the headline, the Halo BassiNest.

24 4 Editor’s Note 6 Talking Points 8 Fresh Finds 10 In the Bag 11 Hot Properties 16 On Trend 44 Behind the Seams 48 Stargazing

This page: Derhy Kids dress, stylist's collar.

Cover: Hucklebones silk dress worn as top, Chat Mechant shorts and belt, Crewcuts socks, Y-3 blue python hightops.

Photography by Allison Cottrill.

Styling by Mindi Smith. Hair and makeup by Christina Corway.

Street art by Katie Reidy.

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office Joel Shupp 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published monthly by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548.

Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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editor’s note HERE’S A LITTLE-KNOWN fact about Earnshaw’s: We share an address with a rotating cast of tech start-up firms. In what’s become a bit of company lore, Ashton Kutcher even stopped by the building once to check in on one of his investments. (He didn’t swing by our floor, alas.)

It’s probably inevitable that some of that new media mojo would rub off on our staff. We love investigating ways retailers and manufacturers can use sites like Twitter, Instagram and Facebook to help boost their business. This year we’ve covered everything from the brave new world of iPad point-of-sale systems to how retail behemoths like Nordstrom are incorporating Pinterest into their brick-and-mortar experience. This month, we were fascinated by how Good360, a non-profit aimed at helping retailers donate excess inventory to charities in need, is incorporating Google Maps technology into its website and making it easier than ever for smaller retailers to donate. (To learn more, check out our Q&A on p. 20.) I’m not exaggerating when I say we’re inspired on a neardaily basis by the innovative way children’s charities, retailers, manufacturers and reps are adapting to the daunting new digital landscape.

That being said, if there’s a lesson to be learned from this year’s crop of Earnie winners (p. 34), it’s that the benefits of new media only go so far. There’s no doubt that sites like Facebook and Etsy helped propel brands like Chewbeads and Liv & Lily into the spotlight. But after chatting with the charming, knowledgeable founders of the brands, it quickly becomes clear that a little something extra plays a role in their continuing success. Call me old-fashioned, but I suspect stellar customer service may also be a reason why retailers rewarded this year’s crop of Earnie winners.

In fact, I would even go so far as to say it’s the main reason our honorees garnered thousands of votes from across the children’s industry. Just take a look at five-time winner for Best Infants’ Collection, Kissy Kissy. “We’ve built the company by listening to retailers,” says the brand’s Owner Roxana Castillo. In a world obsessed with updating, liking and sharing, it’s the old-school skill of listening that resonates most with retailers—and dare I say consumers, too?

I keep coming back to a recent study on “showrooming,” the dreaded term that describes customers who purchase products on their smart phones after scoping them out at a brick-and-mortar store. Researchers at Columbia Business School surveyed 3,000 consumers in the U.S., U.K. and Canada and found that mobile phones can actually improve the odds of an in-store purchase.

Why? Because more than half of consumers are simply searching for more information. It would stand to reason that having a knowledgeable, friendly sales staff would eliminate the need for that smart phone. Again, attentive customer service carries the day.

This year’s Hall of Fame winners on p. 42 are a perfect example. Honey Smith turned her New York City showroom into a tween dream by picking up brands she believed her retail customers simply wouldn’t be able to resist. Meanwhile, Miki Brugge built her Tennessee boutique, Cotton Tails, into a 26-year success story by continually listening to the needs of her customers, constantly incorporating new merchandise, policies and displays along the way. “I just try so many ways of us not saying no,” Brugge told us, adding, “Everybody loves to hear yes.”

What a fantastic philosophy for business, and in life. So, here’s to saying yes in 2014—and best wishes for a safe, fun and prosperous holiday season.

GETTING TO YES Make a resolution to reel in shoppers next year with a mix of new media and tried-and-true personalized service.

Warm regards,

AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

audrey.kingo@9threads.com 4 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3

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Talking

Points Take A Bow

The 36th annual Earnie Awards honored industry innovators and brought a dash of royalty stateside.

NSPIRED BY THE royal baby mania still sweeping the children’s industry, this year’s Earnie Awards, sponsored by ENK and Good360, celebrated 19 winning brands by transforming models from FunnyFace Today into pint-sized imperials as they marched down a red carpet runway.

A nod to the monarchy across the pond, Earnshaw’s Fashion Editor Angela Velasquez styled looks supplied by the winning brands in a range of regal colors and preppy patterns, including navy blue blazers, bright red bows and ruffled dresses fit for high tea at Kensington Palace. To top it all off, the models donned gold crowns, tiaras and sparkling scepters, with hair and makeup done by Briana Mirzo.

The ceremony also welcomed two new inductees into the Earnshaw’s Hall of Fame, which honors leading figures in the children’s industry: Honey Smith, owner of A Bit of Honey showroom in New York City and Miki Brugge, owner of Cotton Tails, a children’s boutique in Memphis, TN. “One of the best parts of the night was listening to Miki Brugge talk about her almost 30 years as an independent retailer. What an inspiration!” says Chewbeads Owner Lisa Greenwald, who carried home not one, but two Earnie Awards. (For a full list of 2013 Earnie Award winners, see p. 34.)

Smith, who put her New York showroom on the map with an ad in Earnshaw’s 29 years ago, says having fun and staying on top of her customers’ needs has enabled her business to grow successfully through the years. “They know that when they come to A Bit of Honey they will be taken care of,” she describes. “I’m a big believer in good customer service and customer follow up.” (Find out more about our inspiring Hall of Fame winners on p. 42.)

The ceremony’s guests, including many retailers who voted for the winning brands, were treated to gift bags supplied by Timi & Leslie, while leaders from the winning companies left with a coveted Earnie Award trophy. “We were thrilled to be considered among a group of such creative, business-minded and dedicated people and companies,” says Greenwald. “The fact that our stores and customers are having success with and loving our products makes us so proud of what we’ve accomplished.” —Brittany Leitner

Makeup artist Briana Mirzo preps a model for show time (above). Rocking the red carpet, kids wore looks

by Earnie winners Thread Showroom (right) and JoJo Maman Bébé (far right).

Lisa Greenwald and Elana Schulman of Chewbeads celebrate their Earnies win in two categories (above), while a tie by winner Tadpole and Lily (right) gets the royal treatment on the catwalk.

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Red Carpet Runway

OPPOSITE PAGE: PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISSANDCAMPBELL; THIS PAGE: PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF PETITE PARADE AND AMERICASMART ATLANTA

Celeb-lined catwalks provide a fitting grand finale to the fall buying season.

FROM THE STAR-studded runways at Petite Parade in New York City to the fashion-packed show at Children’s World in Atlanta, kids' retailers capped off the fall buying season by cheering on mini models bedecked in the hottest styles for Spring ’14.

Petite Parade, a biannual runway show hosted in partnership with Vogue Bambini, celebrated its fifth season in true New York style, with everything from surprise celebrity appearances to 9-year-old DJ Kai Song spinning hits.

Heidi Klum kicked off the event by walking the runway along with models sporting rainbowbright looks from her line for Babies“R”Us, Truly Scrumptious. Later, the audience of bloggers, fashion editors, parents and kids all scrambled to snap pics as Sean “Diddy” Combs settled into the front row to watch his daughters’ runway debut. During the two-day event on Oct. 5-6, a variety of brands debuted the latest Spring ’14 styles, including Stride Rite, Stella Cove, Andy & Evan, Floatimini, Pale Cloud, Lamantine and Bonnie Young.

Meanwhile in Georgia, buyers attending AmericasMart Children’s World at the Atlanta Apparel Market on Oct. 19 were wowed with 60 looks by some of the South’s leading children’s and maternity brands, at the market’s revamped runway show. “Seeing these adorable children’s and tween looks, and chic maternity looks, come to life on the runway is truly the highlight of this market,” says Linda Upchurch, leasing manager for AmericasMart Children’s World. “The show is an opportunity for our buyers to see the looks in action while they gather to network and celebrate our special industry.” —Audrey Goodson Kingo

Fall runways were full of the biggest trends for spring: effervescent tulle dresses by Ooh! La La Couture (modeled here by Diddy’s daughters, Jesse and D’Lila Combs), geek chic by Andy & Evan (above) and playfully mixed prints by Rootie Patooties (below).

Heidi Klum celebrated her latest Babies“R”Us collection, Truly Scrumptious, in a runway show filled with playful touches, like guitar-shaped balloons and lollipops.

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RESH FINDS World Series

Using traditional embroidery and block- and screen-printing techniques from India, Child of the World launches for spring with a collection for girls sizes 6 months to 6 years. The boho basics combine flowing fabrics with jewel tones and playful prints that call to mind memories of hot summer days. Wholesale prices range from $19 to $38.

Go to www.childoftheworld designs.com.

Trunk Show

Based on a Chinese song about a little elephant who is encouraged to be proud of her long nose, San Francisco’s Elé Story mixes patterns and colors to celebrate the individuality of every child.

Ruffles and bows abound throughout the collection of dresses, shorts and skirts in sizes 12 months to 8 years. Wholesale prices range from $17 to $34. Check out www. elestory.com.

Snuggle Buddies

Little Giraffe’s Little G has two new friends to play with— a stuffed lion named Little L and Little E the elephant.

Wholesaling for $21 and available in three colors, the 12-inch machine washable toys are made from the same Luxe Dot fabric as Little G. Visit www.littlegiraffe.com.

Playful prints and ruffled fabrics weave their way through spring.

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Below the Border

Neon, lace and voluminous shapes collide as Little Miss Galia lands stateside for Spring ’14 with a clothing line for girls ages 2 to 12. Metallic thread weaves its way throughout the made-inMexico collection, spanning laser-cut skirts and dresses to tops with origami-style folds at the back. Wholesale prices range from $11.90 to $65.

Visit www.littlemissgalia.com.

Sweet Dreams

Marnicays is a Parisian brand born from the desire to bring color to the world of baby bedding. Ranging from wearable blankets and crib bumpers to pillows and comforters suitable for infants 0 to 12 months, the practical products are hypoallergenic and machine washable, and feature a cast of colorful characters. Wholesale prices range from $15 to $60. Go to www.marnicays.canalblog.com.

In Focus

Founded by eye surgeon Dr. Julie Diem Le in 2006, Londonbased Zoobug brings its range of handmade eyewear for babies and children up to 12 years to the U.S. in 2014. Sunglasses feature UV protective polarized lenses, while the optical collection focuses on vintage-inspired shapes and colors. Highlights include thinner acetates in tortoise and natural tones, and feminine shapes in a palette of dreamy pastels. Wholesale prices range from $23 to $69. Check out www.zoobug.com.

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Out From Under Since making its debut Down Under in 2006, Bluebelle is now available in more than 450 stores worldwide—and the brand’s assortment of luxe underwear for little ones lands on our shores next year. Available in two- and three-piece polka dot and striped sets and wholesaling for $15, sizes range from newborn to 18 months for bloomers and 2 to 11 for underwear. Matching sets for mom are also available. Visit www. bluebelle.com.au.

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IN THE BAG

craft flair

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With a notebook chockfull of healthy snack recipes, knitting patterns and coupons for Michaels in tow, this hands-on future PTA president and Girl Scout leader manages her household like a well-oiled machine, but it isn’t all work and no play. A team of helpful products—like a mess-free squeeze bottle to store homemade baby food and a kitschy pacifier holder—are within reach thanks to a roomy cotton carryall. That means more time to add to her robust Pinterest account and to scour Etsy for the perfect birthday bunting to mark her tot’s first year.

—Angela Velasquez

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1. Erin Condren Design personalized life planner 2. Ah Goo Baby fabric-covered wipes case 3. Cool Gear insulated Mason jar cup 4. Vera Bradley floral gown 5. Sili Squeeze reusable baby food squeeze pouch 6. Mud Pie ribbon pacifier clip 7. Cheengoo knit flower rattles 8. Knitting Gifts for Baby by Mel Clark how-to book 9. Ringley natural teething toy 10. Madie Jane mixed print Mary Janes 11. Bella Bundles bib 12. MAM pacifier set 13. Jamie Rae Hats crystal embellished cap 14. Elegant Baby waffle knit blanket 15. Cake by Petunia velvet and cotton carryall diaper bag.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT McCANDLISS

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HOT PROPERTIES

Oui, Merci

French Connection launches first U.S. children’s line BRITISH BRAND FRENCH Connection is bringing its baby and children’s collection to the U.S. for the first time under Flyers Group P.L.C., which acquired the label more than a year ago. Industry veteran and Earnie Award Hall of Famer Buzz Dannenfelser of Buzz Dannenfelser Associates is set to spearhead the direction of the Spring ’14 launch.

“The French Connection collection in juniors’ and women’s has been doing really well; and we feel there’s a void in the kids’ market for better goods done in a classic way, versus the current labels that seem to be just chasing trends,” notes Isaac Maleh, Dannenfelser’s business partner.

Available in boys’ and girls’ sizes two months to 12 years, the collection includes everything from blazers for boys to infant cotton dresses with bright collars and special occasion dresswear with lace and sequin appliqués for girls. The line will be available at specialty and department stores and wholesales for $12 to $100. For more information, e-mail frenchconnectionkids@ gmail.com.

—Brittany Leitner

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SHOP

class

TIME TO BUY Chock-full of must-see reasons to attend, the 2014 trade show circuit features a full slate of seminars, exhibitors and events. From Atlanta and Miami to New York and Europe, here’s what to keep in mind as you make your travel plans.

By Lyndsay McGregor

An ethereal look from the last Pitti Immagine Bimbo.

IT’S THAT TIME of year again: Holiday sales are ending, and retailers are thinking fall, hitting the trade show floor in search of new names and next season’s trends. But with shows taking place from coast to coast and overseas, as well as an increasing number of online marketplaces offering buyers the chance to make wholesale purchases without leaving their stores, how do you determine which show is worth your time? And how should you organize your schedule once you’re there?

“I always recommend to our buyers that they come with a list of specifically what they’re there to see, but to leave themselves with a full day to check out what else is on offer,” says Marlo Poole, owner of Atlanta-based showroom Carolina Baby Company.

When Jamara Ghalayini, owner of Pumpkinheads in Santa Monica, CA, arrives in New York for ENK Children’s Club or heads to Los Angeles Kids Market, she’s on a mission. “I go to shows to put together a story, to be efficient and to buy new things,” she says. And if she had her way, she’d put all the newbies in one section. “That way I could go straight there and check them out, rather than hunt and peck and find them.” But for buyers like Jennifer Ganz of Lester’s there’s nothing like the thrill of the find on the floor at NY NOW, though she’s quick to point out that she doesn’t leave orders at the show. “I prefer to walk it and see everything first. Then I come back to the office and sort through what I’ve found,” she says.

Simone Oettinger, owner of Maya Papaya and Tony Macarony in Evanston, IL, disagrees, and for good reason: She shops local at North Branch Kids, the Deerfield Show and Kidz at Stylemax, and needs to manage her time wisely. “If you don’t make appointments, you’re not in control,” she says. Vanessa Ting, CEO of Buyerly, an online portal that connects emerging brands with buyers for feedback and advice, and a former buyer at Target, echoes this sentiment, adding, “Your time is valuable. You go to trade shows and you get mobbed.” She thinks more shows should post their directories online beforehand to help buyers figure out in advance who they want to see and who they want to make appointments with. “If I’m going to be taking time away from the office, getting on a plane to travel, I want that trade show to work out really well for me,” she says. “That would be helpful so you know your time is going to be well invested.” But as Poole adds, “The traffic that’s at trade shows now is more productive than when the economy was better. In the past a lot of people would come and walk the show. Now the buyers that are there are there to buy.”

No matter your buying style, there’s no denying the marketplace is changing, and trade shows are stepping the experience up a notch. From educational seminars at The Little Gallery and trend presentations at Bubble London to complimentary meals at ENK and KIDShow, we did the legwork to bring you the highlights.

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BEST WORK ‘N PLAY: PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO Jan. 7-10, Florence, Italy Florence never fails to impress, but this January there’s more than one reason to hop across the pond to Pitti Immagine Bimbo. CEO Raffello Napoleone says he expects fewer European buyers because of the still-weak euro zone, meaning that Italian brands will be eager to get their wares on U.S. shelves. “International buyers cannot avoid Pitti because it’s the best way to understand exactly where the business is going,” he says, noting the show’s early timing is a barometer of global lifestyle trends.

With a theme of Pitti Music Day, the Oliviero Baldini-designed show will celebrate the influence of music on fashion, and vice versa. As ever, attendees can look forward to runway shows, presentations and various events such as “Who is on Next? Bimbo,” where childrenswear designers compete while displaying their collections. When that’s over and done with, January’s chilly temps typically deter many visitors, meaning you can see the city’s sights without wading through throngs of tourists. It’s a win-win.

MOST CONVENIVENT: AMERICASMART CHILDREN’S WORLD Jan. 7-14, Jan. 30-Feb. 3, Atlanta, GA Nestled right in the heart of Atlanta, Leasing Manager Linda Upchurch says AmericasMart Children’s World offers everything retailers at any level could want. “The show takes place on one floor so it’s easily accessible for buyers, and it’s an easy way for exhibitors to come in and show their wares,” she says, adding that exhibitor attendance has increased by 180 lines since October 2012 and retailer attendance is on the rise, too. “It’s very appointment driven because buyers find they like working with the reps and lines here.”

It also helps that it’s easy to get to: Atlanta’s Hartfield-Jackson airport is the country’s busiest. (Most national and regional airlines touch down here.) And with 12,000 hotel rooms within walking distance of the show, buyers don’t have to worry about long cab lines or unpredictable shuttle buses. Upchurch adds, “Our entire floor tries to make it easy as far as having food available on the premises so the buyers don’t ever have to leave and can concentrate on their buying.”

BEST SEMINARS: THE LITTLE GALLERY Jan. 11-13, Dusseldorf, Germany Retailers can look forward to runway shows, panel discussions and trend lectures at Germany’s newest show, The Little Gallery, taking place at the former American Consulate General in Dusseldorf. “These discussions were highly appreciated last time and found

an enormous echo in the press,” says Project Director Ulrike Kahler, noting that the talks bring together key accounts, journalists and buyers.

With its carefully coordinated collection of kids’ clothes, maternity wear and lifestyle products, the show has also proved successful as a platform for new brands. “Some of them are willing to take the risk of an attendance without finding many new clients on the spot. And I feel it is our responsibility to guide and support them here,” Kahler shares. “Due to the fact that big exhibitors like Marc O’Polo do attract a lot of important buyers, smaller unknown labels benefit by being seen as well. We are able to present fresh, new labels to buyers.”

BEST FOR IMMEDIATES: ENK CHILDREN’S CLUB Jan. 12-14, Pier 92, Mar. 9-11, Javits Center, New York, NY Joanne Mohr, executive vice president at ENK International, says the No. 1 reason buyers attend the winter edition of Children’s Club is to fill inventory. “Retailers who come to the show are coming to write orders and leave paper,” she says, adding, “It’s good timing for people to preview fall and to buy European collections, which typically launch earlier.”

Since its debut in January 2000 with only 20 collections, ENK Children’s Club has grown to showcase more than 500 exhibitors, spanning traditional childrenswear and contemporary duds to accessories, footwear, toys and gifts for ages newborn to 12 years. For this go-round, organizers expect more than 300 brands, including Ralph Lauren, Isaac Mizrahi, Kissy Kissy, Andy & Evan and Appaman. Mohr also reveals plans to increase the show’s selection of gift items, as more retailers look to increase add-on sales at the register.

BEST BRITISH SHOW: BUBBLE LONDON Jan. 26-27, London, England Bubble London has evolved from its boutique beginnings in 2008 into a hub for new and emerging talent. With more than 250 brands set to be in attendance in January, spanning small designers to commercially proven international collections, Event Director Lindsay Hoyes says she anticipates the overall mood of attendees to be more positive than last season.

“We have worked hard to produce a show that appeals first and foremost to the U.K. market and the diversity of stores that exist in Britain, whilst flying the flag for emerging talent,” she says. “We have concentrated on bringing the best selection of brands together in a small but inspiring venue which complements the show perfectly.”

Additions to the show include a series of short films showcasing the season’s trends, and

From top: Friendly faces at AmericasMart Children’s World in Atlanta; buyers walking the Bubble London aisles.

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“The Bubble Effect,” a top tips guide providing marketing and PR support to new brands.

Meanwhile the show’s free seminar series, “Look Who’s Talking,” will continue to offer buyers expert advice to inspire and improve their businesses.

City itself,” says Christian Falkenberg, NY NOW director and GLM senior vice president.

FRIENDLIEST SHOW: MIDWEST CHILDREN’S APPAREL GROUP Feb. 8-11; Mar. 29-Apr. 1, Embassy Suites, Deerfield, IL A laid-back atmosphere is the name of the game at the next Children’s Show at Deerfield, according to Tony Grimaldi, president of the Midwest Children’s Apparel Group. “It’s a friendly show.

Everyone knows each other. There’s no pressure whatsoever,” he says.

As the largest children’s apparel show in the Midwest, Grimaldi expects an estimated 100 retailers will be in attendance to check out the 400 lines spanning clothing and accessories to gifts and gear. With doors opening at 4 p.m. on the first day and remaining open until at least 8 p.m. (some exhibitors stick around until 11 p.m.) buyers can stop by after their stores close and work

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MOST CATEGORIES: NY NOW Feb. 1-6, Javits Center and Pier 94, New York, NY With more than 2,800 exhibitors presenting 100,000-plus products in more than 400 categories across two venues, there will be no shortage of things to see at February’s edition of NY NOW. While a targeted assortment of infant and toddler apparel, gear, toys and décor can be found in the Lifestyle Collection’s Baby and Child section, juvenile products can also be found in Accent on Design, as well as some handcrafted odds and ends in the Handmade Collection.

Feeling overwhelmed yet? Thanks to NYNOW365, help is at hand. The new online tool features 20,000 products from more than 1,000 exhibitors to help buyers get a head start on sourcing and shopping before they get to market.

“Buyers visit the market each winter and summer in search of design-driven products from both established and emerging resources, as well as the inspiration offered by New York

“Buyers know they need new and fresh merchandise in their stores to drive sales.”

later. Plus attendees get free pizza on Saturday and a complimentary catered lunch every day, and the hotel has a large hospitality room where everyone can relax and go over their orders at the end of the day.

MOST VISUALLY STIMULATING: PLAYTIME NEW YORK Mar. 8-10, 23 Wall St, New York, NY From the get-go, Playtime New York sought to offer the industry more than just square meters.

As Director Sebastien De Hutten puts it, “When you’re walking a show you see hundreds of collections and if a brand can’t personalize a booth, the buyers can’t immediately understand what that brand is about.” For that reason, organizers provide exhibitors with hardwood walls to decorate as they see fit with minimal investment.

“Most buyers have very creative stores, and we believe the best we can do is offer a creative environment for them to shop the market,” De Hutten says.

To further guide buyers, installations featuring a mix of fashion and art break up the show floor to illustrate the coming trends. “We’ve always considered it was possible to show collections in the best possible environment for the same price as others,” De Hutten continues, and thanks to the show’s new, larger home at 23

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International trade fair for children’s, baby and maternity fashion, shoes and lifestyle products

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Wall Street, he thinks they’re finally delivering on that premise. “There’s still a long way to go but it has definitely evolved a lot, and it’s become a destination where buyers have time to properly judge things.”

MOST DIVERSE: KIDSHOW MIAMI Mar. 23-24, Miami, FL Spanning swimwear from Coral & Reef and Cruz to infant wear by Baby Soy and Little Me, KIDShow Miami can’t be pigeonholed, and Manager Denise Raeside is happy to report that the one-year-old show’s diverse list of exhibiting brands continues to grow. The lines will still be in the moderate to designer price point, she says, and adds that the big attraction for both buyers and vendors to come to Miami is to open new business with an untapped market. “It allows our exhibitors a chance to meet customers from the Caribbean and Central and South America regions,” she says. “While many buyers have learned to be cautious with their purchases, they know they need new and fresh merchandise in their stores to drive sales.”

BEST FOR NEW BRANDS: PBJ SHOW Mar. 27-28, Dallas Market Center, Dallas, TX It’s always a good sign when eight of the 25

companies that presented at your inaugural show find a reason to move in, and that’s exactly what happened at Dallas Market Center last March after its first ever PBJ (play, baby, juvenile). Now Cutey Booty, Bottle Pets, Posh Play, Pello, Kidaroo Crew and Puj all have a permanent presence in The Studio, the center’s shared showroom concept open daily and during all gift, home and apparel shows, while two more companies (Toofeze and Nested Bean) found multi-line reps to market their product.

As for PBJ’s sophomore show, Robbin Wells, executive vice president of leasing, expects attendance to grow to up to 50 exhibitors, including Lollacup, GuavaKids and Tady Tote. “I call it a showcase because when the companies come in the goal is to not only expose them to buyers, but also to provide yearround marketing for them,” she says, noting that a photo lab will also be available on site to provide new brands with complimentary product shots. And because it’s a small grouping of brands all on one floor, Wells says it’s easy for buyers to navigate and spend time learning about each brand. “It’s about coming in for two days and seeing as many people as you can and letting our trade show work for you all year around,” she says. •

Buyers love the runway shows at The Little Gallery in Germany.

january ISSuE HIGHLIGHTS APP HAPPY Kids’ brands are jumping on the tech bandwagon.

SHARK ATTACK How a hit TV show has helped boost a number of children’s companies.

ReTuRn SeRviCe Keep ‘em coming back for more with top tips on customer retention.

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the Outerwear issue

OnTrend

Jet Setter ruffled sleeve shirt

Dogwood presidents T-shirt

Monster Republic Monopolythemed T-shirt

Ariana Breall

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Brian Lichtenberg knit cap

Little Traveler T-shirt, plaid shirt and pants

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Little Trendstar mixed taped tee

Malibu Sugar knit cap Zara Terez leggings

Little Trendstar mixed tape T-shirt

Gladee pencil pouch

PORTRAIT AND STILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL; RUNWAY PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF PETITE PARADE

Transmission by Bravado Lady Gaga tee

Miki Miette hooded one-piece

Dr. Martens floral boots

Hip Hip Hooray

Hipster children are not just dwelling in Brooklyn and Portland these days. The oh-so-cool, artsy movement has spread across the world, reaching Paris’ 11th arrondissement to London’s tourist-free East End and Amsterdam-Noord, a nabe peppered with art studios outside the cutesy cobblestone streets of the capital city. The language might be different and the appreciation for particular artisanal after school snacks—be it cheese, pickles or mayonnaise— reflect the diverse cultures, but one thing remains unchanged: skinny jeans, moody hues and ironic T-shirts will always be hip. —Angela Velasquez 2 0 1 3 N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 1 7

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OnTrend Jaxxwear collared one-piece

Mini Zzz pajama set

Douglas plush T-Rex

Jefferies socks

Zutano footed one-piece

Skip Hop bib with catch-all food pocket

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Myself Belts embroidered belt

Art Walk cardigan and cap

PORTRAIT AND STILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL; RUNWAY PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF PETITE PARADE.

Angel Dear bibs

Kassatex bathroom accessories

Bonnie Young dress

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Fossil Fuel

Tired of the Roaring Twenties-inspired party frocks and twee Depression-era smock tops that have infiltrated children’s fashion as of late—but still crave a bit of vintage style? Take a look at the prehistoric threads and accessories coming straight from the Jurassic. Complete with scales, teeth and tails, these imaginative dinosaur items are not your typical cave man togs. By combining 21st century function (Velcro and snaps) with characters that have bite, these wares mark a new age of roaring good fun. —Angela Velasquez 2 0 1 3 N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 1 9

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Q& A

Good Stuff HERE’S A SCENE every retailer knows all too well: It’s the end of the season, and no matter the markdown, some merchandise still lingers on the shelf. For ecoconscious shop owners, destroying the inventory is out of the question. It’s also a non-starter for other, more practical reasons: Just look at the media firestorm that ensued a few years ago when shoppers found dumpsters full of slashed clothing outside H&M locations in New York City. Donating the goods to charity is ideal—but which charity? And will a non-profit need summer apparel in the middle of winter? Suddenly, doing a good deed can become a complicated, lengthy endeavor.

That’s where Good360 wants to help, says President and CEO Cindy Hallberlin. The organization already works with an array of retail heavyweights—Wal-Mart, Home Depot, J.C. Penney and Sears, just to name a few—to deliver extra inventory to people in need. But thanks to a batch of new technology Good360 is rolling out next year, it will be easier than ever for smaller, independent retailers to locate nearby charities and donate

Carly Fiorina (left) and Cindy Hallberlin (right) pause for a pic in the middle of an actionpacked day.

excess merchandise.

“Think of our website as the eBay of the charitable world, connecting those who have to those that need,” Hallberlin describes. In fact, the Good360 website, Good360.org, already operates as a marketplace of sorts, where retailers can list their excess inventory, and charities can shop for the items they need most. Next year, the non-profit will incorporate Google Maps technology to its site, allowing retailers to find a nearby charity in need, and vice versa. In a matter of minutes, a retailer can register for the site, list her shop’s excess merchandise, and get linked up with a local

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL

Looking for a better way to unload your unsold inventory? Cindy Hallberlin, president and CEO of Good360, and Carly Fiorina, board of directors chair, reveal how their organization plans to revolutionize the way retailers and charities work together to help those in need. BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

2 0 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • N O V E M B E R / D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 3

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“All the research says that consumers increasingly want to do business with companies they think are good, responsible, corporate citizens.”

charity that will pick up the goods at no charge.

“We’re making it extremely easy for small and midsize retailers to donate,” Hallberlin notes.

The non-profit certainly has the operation in place to make it happen: With more than 40,000 partner charities across the globe, including Christian Appalachian Project, Feed the Children and World Vision, Good360 has distributed more than $7 billion in product donations since its inception. The organization is consistently ranked one of the top 10 most efficient charities by Forbes, and is currently ranked by the magazine as the 29th largest charity in the U.S. And now, thanks to new Board Chair Carly Fiorina, who joined Good360 last year, it has an added dash of star power needed to help make a bigger splash in national news outlets— another goal for the group in 2014.

If Fiorina’s name sounds familiar, there’s good reason: The former CEO of Hewlett-Packard (from 1999 to 2005) made headlines as the first woman to lead a Fortune 20 company. Also active in the political sphere, Fiorina ran for Senate in California in 2010 and was even floated as a possible vice presidential pick for Sen. John McCain during the 2008 election. Yet while Fiorina’s impressive resume and connections are sure to be a boost to Good360’s already-robust operation, Hallberlin instead lauds Fiorina for the traits that make the former CEO such a compelling leader, describing her as a “fun and an extraordinarily caring person.”

From “When Carly joined Good360 as our board chair in backpacks to 2012, she made an immediate difference,” Hallberlin computers, adds. “Her energy, commitment and keen intellect were Good360 helps felt by everyone. She has devoted an enormous amount hundreds of of time to the organization’s strategic vision, as well as companies helping develop our sales team and providing leaderdeliver ship advice and training. She is not just generous with products to kids in need. her time but has made a substantial personal financial investment in the organization. And on a personal note, I have never learned more from anyone in my career. Her straightforward insights and thoughtful advice help inspire me in my work every day.”

It’s a sentiment Fiorina echoes regarding Hallberlin, who has served as the organization’s president and CEO for four years. The easy, confident working relationship between the pair is immediately apparent as they pause for a quick photo op, during a day packed with crucial meetings. Together, the two are looking forward to a banner year in 2014, with new technology aimed at helping in the disaster recovery sphere, as well as the Google Maps feature poised to revolutionize giving

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back for small and mid-size retailers. It’s all part of their efforts to help Good360 live up to its motto: “We help organizations do good better,” they both say at different points during their interview. “Even though inventories get better and better, they’ll never be perfect,” Hallberlin points out. And with nearly a quarter of U.S. children now living in poverty, the need for product donations—toys in particular, Hallberlin notes—is undeniably evident.

Not to mention all the added benefits that come with along with donating, from tax breaks to positive public relations. Hallberlin points to a time when Mattel called Good360 a week before Christmas, looking to donate American Girl dolls on Christmas Day to children in hospitals across the U.S. “How do you think that felt to that kid who couldn’t go home on Christmas because she’s so sick?” Hallberlin asks.

“The reaction is unbelievable, and the appreciation is just huge. It’s wonderful for the companies. They get an enhanced tax break, and they know they’re doing something good with their extra inventory.”

Carly, I’m sure you have a lot of requests for your time.

How did you link up with Good360 and what inspired you to become the Board Chair?

Carly: I was introduced to the company through a mutual friend, and frankly I’d never heard of them. I started doing a little research, and I was blown away by the impact they have. It’s a 30-year-old company with 40,000 partner charities, and relationships with more than 1,000 companies. I was blown away by what Good360 does through a combination of deep expertise, logistics, warehousing, distribution and a very robust technology platform to match excess or unsold inventory to people in need.

Why are non-profits like Good360 necessary?

Carly: One in six people in this country live in poverty, and poverty falls most heavily on women, and especially children.

Cindy: One of the things I feel passionate about, and that people don’t necessarily think about, is the fact that stuff matters. If you don’t have a decent pair of clothes to put on to go to work, it matters. After a clothing distribution we did last year, a priest called to thank us. He said, ‘There’s this guy who we minister to at church, and when we gave him a shirt, he held it and teared up.’

He had never opened a new piece of clothing. So when he put it on, he felt transformed. I like to remind people that stuff really matters.

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As poverty continues to increase in the U.S., do you think the need for Good360 has increased, as well?

Carly: Certainly the needs are greater. But I also think it matters more to retailers and companies now. Because we know, and all the research says, that consumers increasingly want to do business with companies they think are good, responsible corporate citizens. When consumers find out how much perfectly good stuff goes into a landfill, they’re horrified. They want to be assured that extra inventory is going to a community in need.

So it matters not just to the people who receive the goods; it also matters to our partners who are trying to do the right thing, but need help doing it efficiently and effectively.

And destroying unsold merchandise is definitely a bad PR move these days.

Carly: We had a situation where a retailer came to us, because they had an employee whose job it was to destroy clothing at the end of the selling cycle and throw it in the dumpster. And the employee couldn’t stand it any longer and started taking videos and uploading it to YouTube.

Nobody likes doing that. Nobody likes waste, especially in this day and age when there’s so much need. But they didn’t know how to solve that problem. We do. We solved it.

Good360 has delivered $7 billion worth of product to people in need, yet the organization flies under the radar. Why is that?

Carly: We want to make sure that our retail partners get all the credit for being generous and our charities get all the credit for helping people in need. But one of the challenges with that is a lot of people don’t know we exist. So next year we’re really ramping up to make sure not only are we providing additional capability, particularly during disasters, where we’re building new technology, but also to make sure people know we’re there.

How are you providing additional disaster-relief capability?

Carly: Whether it’s 9/11, Superstorm Sandy, Hurricane Katrina, tornadoes in Joplin, MO, or earthquakes in Haiti—you name any disaster and Good360 is there at the beginning, and importantly, we’re there a year later when everyone else has left and the cameras have gone away. One of the things that happens in disasters is everyone piles in at once, and that can create a disaster. It can create too many of the wrong goods in the wrong places at the wrong time. And a lot of that stuff ends up in a landfill.

Cindy: So many companies sent clothes during Superstorm Sandy, the National Guard had to put out a plea to stop sending them. In fact, 60 percent of all donated goods at the time of a disaster ends up in landfills.

Carly: What we’re able to do, and what we’re enhancing our technology to allow us to do even more effectively in the future, is not only do we stay through the long haul, but because we’ve built up these relationships, our charities can tell us what they need a year later. They can say, ‘I don’t need bottled water anymore, but what I do need are mattresses and clothes.’

Cindy: And in 2014, we are launching a disaster recovery portal called DisasterRecovery360. It will help stage disaster relief and product donations from the first time a disaster hits until the weeks and months and years it takes to rebuild. We are going to be collecting the needs of non-profits on the ground at the time of a disaster and keep tracking their needs as they unfold and change, displayed front and center on our portal. That will enable corporations to send the right goods at the right time to the right people. We hope to launch it before hurricane season in July 2014.

How do you help your retail partners get credit for helping their community?

Carly: We have community partnerships with local charities, so we let people know where the merchandise comes from. In some cases, we have helped a retailer establish ongoing relationships with the charities in EARNSHAWS_dec2012_SAF.indd 1

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“ We’re making it extremely easy for small and mid-size retailers to donate, because we’re automating the process. ” their community. And not only is it important to consumers that their preferred retailer is a good citizen, but those local charities have employees that buy things. What our donation partners have discovered is that the charity world is a marketplace of consumers. So those connections mean a lot to employees, consumers and to the bottom line, as well. And in many cases, there are tax write-offs associated with donating. In other words, we can help retailers with the financial aspects, too, so they not only get the credit they deserve in the community, but they get the credit they need in the bottom line, as well.

Sounds great. How can smaller retailers get involved?

Cindy: We want small businesses to have an opportunity to donate, and our new enhanced platform that launches in early 2014 is specifically designed to make it easier for smaller retailers to get involved. Our donation process will be available online, so it should take a small retailer a matter of minutes to sign up. With our new technology, they will be able to describe what they want to donate and upload the information.

Then, thanks to our new Google Maps feature, local charities will be able to see that a nearby boutique has, say, 20 pairs of jeans they need to get rid of. The charity can find it and pick it up.

So we’re making it extremely easy for small and mid-size retailers to donate, because we’re automating the process.

So charities will be able to use to the site to look for retailers, too?

Cindy: Yes. Any legitimate charity can go on our website and begin to view our available donations in an array of categories—personal care, clothes, technology—and request them. (Good360 vets all nonprofits before they are able to gain access

to our donation catalog.) And in an average of 48 hours, we’ll ship it to the charity. Or, you can also search for local store partners. We currently have 3,000 stores across the country in our database, including Bed, Bath & Beyond, Home Depot, Disney, Williams-Sonoma, Guess and PetSmart.

All someone at a charity has to do is log on, type in her address, and put in how far she wants to drive. And if she’s matched with a store, she can pick up the donations locally. Partnerships typically last for one year.

Aside from the new technology, how is Good360 different from other non-profits who offer similar services?

Carly: No one has the logistics, warehousing and distribution expertise that we have. No one has the technology platform that we have. And these are things that we think more people need to know about so they don’t think we’re competing with other charities. No, we’re not. We are providing a more systemic, sustainable solution to retailers, manufacturers and charities, so they can get on to doing what they do, which is helping people.

Why is working with Good360 important to you personally?

Carly: I have seen the faces of children when they get something new. It’s not just stuff to them. It’s self-respect. It’s something special.

It’s a treasure. One of the things that we want to do more of is to be able to share with our retail partners the stories of these children, so they can see them, know them, and know what it means to these children. It’s everything.

Cindy: A moment that stands out for me is when I visited a Sioux reservation in Lower Brule, SD. We do a ton of donations through the Native American Heritage Association, which operates on three reservations in South Dakota, and I wanted to go see it. I timed my visit with when we were delivering Tempur-Pedic mattresses. I was really taken aback—85 percent of the tens of thousands of people on those reservations live below the poverty line. And when we delivered the mattresses, we weren’t replacing their beds; we were getting them off the floor. I was talking to one woman, and she said, ‘We just love these mattresses, because we realized they are such a great conductor of heat. So now we use them to warm our babies.’ Also, to help combat a gang problem on the reservation, carpenters from local towns came in and trained teenagers on how to build platform beds. As a reward, the teens learned a skill, and were able to bring the beds home to their families. All in all, the donation helped keep people from sleeping on the floor, kept babies warm and kept at-risk youth engaged. What a fantastic impact. • To learn more about donating your store’s unsold inventory, visit Good360.org or call 703-836-2121.

B e st F oo t w e a r

THANK YOU for helping us achieve a new milestone.

From first steps to first days of school and beyond, we celebrate the milestones of childhood.

Learn more at striderite.com

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BRIGHT SHAPES AND BOLD COLORS TAKE OVER THE STREETS OF BROOKLYN.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALLISON COTTRILL STYLING BY MINDI SMITH

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Stella Cove dress, Mini A Ture polka dot tights, floral high-tops by Y-3.

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Chat Mechant sweatshirt, Tumble ‘N Dry harem sweatpants and knit hat, stylist’s green coat. Opposite page: Little Marc Jacobs windbreaker, Imps & Elfs orange pants, Converse sneakers; Millions of Colors dress, Antik Batik scarf, tights

by Bobo Choses, ILoveGorgeous shoes; Paul Smith Junior button-down and sweater, Imps & Elfs striped shorts, Sweet Marcel socks, Vans sneakers, Fore!! Axel & Hudson hat.

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Little Marc Jacobs tee worn under Imps & Elfs hoodie, Appaman shorts, Vans sneakers. Opposite page: Mayoral dress, Mini A Ture raincoat hood, Chewbeads bracelet worn as cuff.

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Appaman T-shirt worn under Munster masked hoodie, Fun & Fun shorts, monster sneakers by Vans; Chat Mechant dress worn under Floatimini striped sundress, Appaman sunglasses, Y-3 high-tops, stylist’s knee socks. Opposite page: Mini A Ture eyelet top worn under Eddie Pen down vest, red track pants by Appaman, gold high-tops by Y-3.

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Petit by Sofie Schnoor striped tee and shorts, socks by Happy Socks, Vans sneakers; Millions of Colors polka dot tee, yellow jacket and skirt by Kidscase, Nui Organics striped leggings, Paul Smith Junior socks, Y-3 high-tops; Petit by Sofie Schnoor striped tee worn under Mini A Ture denim coveralls, Chat Mechant belt, Sweet Marcel socks, ILoveGorgeous shoes 32

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Lemon Loves Lime ruffled sleeve top worn under Imps & Elfs jumper, Sweet Marcel knee socks, ILoveGorgeous shoes, butterfly wings by All the Numbers.

Styling by Mindi Smith.

Hair and makeup by Christina Corway. Street art by Katie Reidy.

Retouching by Carleton Ray.

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EARNIE AWARD WINNERS 2013

SEAL OF APPROVAL After tallying thousands of votes from across the U.S. and Canada, we’re proud to present the 2013 Earnie Award winners. Congrats to this year’s top companies, who ranked high with retailers for everything from exemplary customer service to innovative design.

BEST INTERNATIONAL COLLECTION

JoJo Maman Bébé

JoJo Maman Bébé’s decision to hire 24 sales reps to tout its line of Breton-inspired duds from coast to coast has paid off: the British brand received this year’s nod for Best International Collection.

“Despite trading in the U.K. for 20 years and everybody knowing us there, it’s exciting to enter a new market, and in such a short space of time to be recognized and loved,” gushes Mark Jeynes, head of international trade.

Born out of owner and founder Laura Tenison’s parents’ garage in Wales in 1993 and originally inspired by French nautical style, JoJo Maman Bébé is now found in 54 countries, and has evolved to offer a mix of classic and quirky clothes, swimwear and snowsuits for boys and girls sizes 0 to 5/6 years, not to mention clothing and accessories for moms-to-be.

“There really is something for everyone,” Jeynes insists. “We sell anything a mother and baby might

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need from maternity feeding tops to UV sun protection swimwear for babies. Add to that really great prices and a 20-year heritage, which means you know you are getting superb quality and design that has stood the test of time in the U.K.” Jeynes reveals the brand’s outerwear, which includes waterproof packable jackets and a range of recycled polar fleece, particularly resonated with buyers this year.

“To have such a technical range at great prices and, more importantly, in bright, fun colors for kids, has been very easy to sell,” he shares.

But he believes it was the team’s decision to attend every ENK and NY NOW show that really put the brand on the map this year. “For buyers to be able to see us every time and to chat to us about their issues and see that we care is really important—to us and them,” he says. —Lyndsay McGregor

11/20/13 11:25 AM

BEST FOOTWEAR

Stride Rite Next year marks Stride Rite’s 95th year in business, and the footwear favorite has come a long way from its roots in stitchdown shoes. But while today’s styles look a little different, the company hasn’t strayed too far from expectations. “Stride Rite believes in style done right, but just for kids,” says Jennifer Kretchmar, SVP of product and design at Stride Rite Children’s Group. And retailers agree: The brand has notched an Earnie nod twice in the past three years.

What made it stand out yet again?

“For 2013, we were particularly inspired by bold colors, shine and animal prints.

Our designers are always inspired by the runway and have fun translating the latest looks for kids, with a little extra color, sparkle and kid-right details.”

She adds, “The great thing about being a kid-only brand is that we can creatively take a trend and own it in a way adult brands can’t.” One example is the Stride Rite Racer Lights sneaker, a back-toschool heavy hitter that appealed to moms and kids alike thanks to its sensor light technology that encourages kids to move. (The shoe’s lights change when kids hit “turbo” speed.) As Kretchmar puts it, “We don’t just shrink down adult shoes to kids’ sizes; we design and build just for kids. From alternative closures to rounded edges that reduce stumbles and falls, Stride Rite shoes can be counted on through every step of childhood.” —L.M.

COMPANY OF THE YEAR

Cutie Pie Baby Cutie Pie Baby has definitely seen its share of success since starting life as a small diaper line more than 25 years ago. Today, its portfolio of brands has expanded beyond its own house collection of layettes, newborn and infant sportswear and accessories to include Baby Gear, Sandy & Simon, Chick Pea, Kyle & Deena, Rugged Bear, Izod, Mini Muffin and Babyworks. “What sets us apart is that we offer a vast variety of options in each trend and in each collection,” says President Eli Yedid. “With dressup, we didn’t just offer a tux and suit for boy; we had 16 different looks for boys and girls. This provides our buyers with great options, knowing they can find the best styles that work for their stores and regions.”

It’s worked. Diana Lannon, vice president of design and merchandising, reports that sales this year were up, and points to the company’s focus on baby as the reason. “We understand the market. We know our customer and we stay true to our core competency,” she says. “We’re always thinking about the photo op. Parents of new babies spend so much time taking and posting photos; they want that ‘Awww’ factor.”

But Yedid is quick to note that it wasn’t one decision in particular that contributed to the company’s success this year, and that the best is yet to come. “We are always looking for new licenses and to acquire new companies or brands that make sense for our business. We also plan to expand our layette business to include more fashion pieces while at the same time offering the great basics that our customers have relied on us for,” he reveals. —L.M. 2013 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER • EARNSHAWS.COM 35

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EARNIE AWARD WINNERS 2013 BEST OUTERWEAR

Rugged Bear When Diana Lannon, a former childrenswear buyer at BJ’s Wholesale Club, and Eli Yedid, president of Cutie Pie Baby, purchased the rights to Rugged Bear in 2011, they brought iApparel on board to produce the brand’s outerwear. And the partnership is proving successful: Sales this year increased 40 percent over its Fall ’12 re-launch. “We kept the specialty aspect of Rugged Bear by making it unique but not overpriced,” says Sammy Catton, president of iApparel, adding, “Consumers familiar with the brand were happy to see it back in the marketplace.”

Capturing the essence of classic New England style, Rugged Bear delivered stylish soft-shell jackets, snowsuits and puffers in bright colors and bold prints, and Catton says that most of his direction came from the skiwear market. “Our designers spent time talking to parents on and off the slopes as well as in school yards around the country to find out what parents want,” he shares. “Because Rugged Bear was a specialty retailer for more than 20 years, the brand became synonymous with high quality children’s clothing. We are keeping the DNA of the brand, while adding a modern touch.”

Lannon agrees. “Winning [the Earnie for Best Outerwear] makes us feel that we are doing right by the brand, and our buyers and consumers are truly happy with what we are delivering,” she says. —L.M.

BEST GIRLS’ COLLECTION

Moxie and Mabel

For what Moxie and Mabel Co-Founders Michele Briggs and Jennifer Williams consider to be a relatively young and unknown line, the girls’ collection sure wooed buyers in 2013 with over-the-top frocks, artistic embellishments and by keeping retailers on

their toes with new designs at each show.

“We didn’t want to show the exact same styles at both the January and March ENK Children’s Club, so Jenn whipped up dresses that were like wearable art with flowers made from the pages of books,” Briggs explains, adding, “It was a huge boost for us and pushed us to start thinking about ways to translate that type of detail work to other parts of the line.”

The special occasion portion of the line tends to draw the most attention, but Briggs says the brand is poised to become an allencompassing girls’ collection with more retailer-requested, purse-friendly separates in the future. By adding more separates, she hopes the line will fill that void specialty retailers often grapple with—quality basics that complete and diversify looks.

For a label that typically finds success in eclectic patterns and girly color ways, the debut 2013 holiday collection, which focused on icy tonal hues rather than busy prints, was a game changer and even sold better than the regular fall line. “It was interesting for us to see that we can be a bit cooler and less print happy and yet still be just as successful,” Briggs says.

Guesswork is part of the fun, the exec says. And it is a two-way street. “We tend to keep things in the line that we love but might not have mass retail appeal. It keeps the retailers surprised and in return, we’re quite often shocked at the how happily they accept it,” she adds. That warm reception and the brand’s first Earnie win is confidence-boosting validation for the brand that began with one dress design. “It makes me feel like our plans might actually work, and we can grow to be where we want to be,” Briggs hopes. —Angela Velasquez

BEST TWEEN COLLECTION

Blush by Us Angels

In past collections, 95 percent of the dresses Blush offered were made of chiffon, cementing the brand as a go-to for flower girl looks and special occasions, but not for an everyday dress. “We were successful because we are good with styles and color,” Vice President of Sales and Marketing David Gardner explains.

“But to really be in the tween market you have to offer other fabrications.” After all, what’s a tween wardrobe without pleather, sublimation and sequins?

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BEST LICENSED APPAREL

PGA Authentics

by Fore!! Axel and Hudson In a category overflowing with licensing apparel made to suit sports fanatics of every stripe, it should come as no surprise that the crisp polos, preppy plaids and pleated skirts of PGA Authentics by Fore!! Axel and Hudson would strike a cord with golfers and spectators alike. Known for its fashion-forward approach to golf-inspired clothing for boys (and most recently, girls with Fore’N’Birdie) Fore!!

Axel and Hudson Creative Director Paul Nguyen says PGA approached the brand two years ago to create a kids’ line because “they loved what we were doing.”

Two successful seasons and an Earnie later prove that retailers love it, too. “The award means a great deal that we’re being recognized,” Nguyen shares, noting that its rare to find a full collection in sports licensing. “Usually it’s just a screen printed T-shirt,” he states. The Spring ’13 launch teed off with a range of apparel and accessories for kids’ size 2T to 12.

But can two fashionable golf-inspired boutique kids’ lines coexist? Mindful to give each line a distinct flavor, Nguyen says it’s been a hole in one. “People know what Fore!! Axel and Hudson is about—soft fabrications, unexpected color combinations and polo silhouettes. We carried over those same values in the PGA Authentics line, but made it different with a softer color palette so it didn’t compete,” he offers.

A loyal PGA following hasn’t hurt, either. “It’s recognized internationally. People see the collection and it is instantly associated with golf,” he explains, adding that the line has been well received at boutiques, golf shops and resorts. And with one more year left in the licensing agreement, the exec is hopeful that the line will continue to appeal to parents, and might even spark an interest in kids to get out on the green. —A.V.

Gardner says the goal was to become a “social occasion” brand. The addition of jersey, ponte knit and pointelle to the 2013 collections helped broaden the brand’s appeal to retailers and consumers, as validated by its Earnie win in the tween category. Gardner points out that the new materials are commonplace in tween apparel, but it is Blush’s meticulous attention to fun, relevant, age-appropriate details that have set the brand apart from its competitors.

“That’s always the challenge: How do you design apparel for girls who are driven by trends they see in the juniors’ market?

It isn’t always easy,” he says, noting the gaping armholes, halter necks and low backs that permeate juniors’ just aren’t

going to cut it in the tween market. Plus, the dresses still need to be easy to care for and made to withstand the rough and tumble life of a tween, as well as meet CPSIA regulations. “You always have to consider those factors. We agree with the safety concerns, but if major spikes or embellishments with pin backs are trending, we have to find creative ways to design around it,” he explains.

Blush has met that challenge head on and found success with its color blocked frocks, drop waist dresses, illusion necklines and mixed fabrications—but classic styles are certainly still part of the brand’s DNA. Gardner quips, “You can never go wrong with a classic fitted dress with a full skirt.” —A.V.

BEST INFANTS’ COLLECTION

Kissy Kissy

Kissy Kissy might have turned Sweet Sixteen this year, but don’t expect any typical rebellious teenager behavior from this stalwart infant and toddler line. “We’ve built the company by listening to retailers,” Kissy Kissy Owner and five-time Earnie winner, Roxana Castillo, states. “We take into account any comments and wishes,” she adds—which also explains why each season Kissy Kissy rolls out about 80 groupings to satisfy retailers’ unique needs.

Castillo’s collaborative approach to design, as well as the line’s signature über-soft Pima cotton, classic bodies and sweet prints, continue to resonate with retailers across the country.

“The award is an endorsement on the collections and relationships with our retail partners,” she explains, adding, “It is extremely gratifying that stores are having success with Kissy Kissy and that they appreciate the details that go into creating the line.”

In 2013, collection standouts included boy and girl versions of a Noah’s Island scenic animal print and a giraffe keepsake collection, in addition to mix-and-match stripes and dots to coordinate—which Castillo reports are a hit for multiple births.

As for Kissy Kissy’s 17th year, Castillo says the company plans to continue to focus on its core business, building upon its collection of prints with more whimsical designs and embroideries. “Retailers are reordering a lot more lately.

Maybe they are more conservative at the start of the season, or sales are growing, but either way it is a positive feeling.” —A.V. 2013 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER • EARNSHAWS.COM 37

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EARNIE AWARD WINNERS 2013 BEST SWIMWEAR AND BEST SPECIAL OCCASION

Isobella & Chloe

Upon hearing the news that Isobella & Chloe had won not one but two Earnie Awards this year, Emily Fong, president of operations at the popular girls’ brand, says she was “shocked and touched” at the recognition, despite taking home the same honors last year. That’s because the brand, which began making its distinctive ruffled dressed back in 2007, is still relatively new to the world of children’s fashion, particularly in the swimwear category. “When we developed our swim division, our designers wanted to give our existing retailers an aesthetic that was consistent with our dress line because it performed so well for them,” Fong says. The formula must have worked: Launched in Spring ’12, the swim collection has already garnered accolades from retailers for its ageappropriate, detailed styles featuring ruffles and lace.

As for the stellar success of its special occasion collection, Fong points to the brand’s trend-driven yet kid-friendly looks that appeal to parents and tots alike. “We want to help our blossoming girls define their identity with signature Isobella & Chloe looks, which are both

conservative enough to be mother-approved and chic enough for girls to love,” Fong describes.

And since the label offers looks in sizes newborn to 14, matching sister styles have been a hit at the cash register.

Aside from ringing in sales, Fong also credits the brand’s double win to its careful attention to retailers’ feedback. “We tailor our designs to our retailer response because they know firsthand what consumers want,” she says. Fong also believes Isobella & Chloe’s wide spectrum of products and competitive price points allow the brand to appeal to a broad range of shoppers. “We have something for just about everybody,” she adds.

For Spring ’14, the brand plans to broaden its assortment in both categories, by expanding its swimwear offering and introducing more special occasion layering pieces like vests and jackets for the holiday season. “Similar to our dress line, our swim line will have groups that are more casual and sporty and others that are fancier,” she says, adding, “We’re hoping to provide styles that will appeal to different people and occasions.”

—Brittany Leitner

BEST ACCESSORIES & JEWELRY AND “IT” ITEM OF THE YEAR

Chewbeads

Chalk up Chewbeads’ success to baby Benjamin. Company Founder and Owner Lisa Greenwald got the idea for the brand’s line of teething jewelry and accessories from her son, who loved nibbling on her favorite blue beaded necklace. “Then it became a pattern,” she recalls. “Kids at the park or on airplanes wanted to put it in their mouth and taste it, too.”

But Greenwald worried about the safety of letting little ones chew on jewelry. She wondered: What if moms could wear a necklace made of a softer, non-toxic material? So she quickly went to work finding a factory and producing a couple thousand units of brightly colored, dishwasher-safe necklaces, all made using 100 percent silicone beads.

Thankfully, the first prototype passed the chew test: “When I put it on, of course the first thing Ben did was start to eat it,” Greenwald laughs.

From there, the brand grew organically, Greenwald describes, aided by moms spreading the word on social media.

“Moms were going into their local stores and saying, ‘You have to carry this.’” Now,

four years later, Chewbeads are stocked in more than 1,500 locations across the U.S. and Canada. And with the brand’s extension this year into kids’ jewelry through its Juniorbeads line, as well as a line of Major League Baseball-themed necklaces and teethers, it’s no wonder that retailers couldn’t resist rewarding the brand not one but two Earnies.

“I just want to thank everyone who has faith in our business,” Greenwald says of snagging both awards, a feat she credits to a variety of factors, including a budgetfriendly price point. “Part of the success of the teethers and the other things we’ve introduced is that it’s a cute gift at a good price point, and it’s easy to wrap,” she points out. Plus, the company’s small team (comprised of Greenwald, her husband and COO, Eric, and Vice President of Sales and Marketing Elana Schulman) means it can quickly respond to retailers’ requests.

“We all work so closely with every aspect of the business—so it makes it a seamless experience for our customers,” she notes.

—Audrey Goodson Kingo

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BEST DENIM

Levi’s

BEST HOSIERY

BabyLegs Hosiery for babies might not be the most intuitive of market categories, but that’s precisely why blockbuster brand BabyLegs was invented. As the story goes, the idea came from a mom who, while changing her baby’s diaper in a frenzy, snipped the waist out of her baby’s bottoms and kept the legs on.

“It’s all about the ‘aha!’ moment when parents try BabyLegs,” says Isaac E. Ash, president and CEO at United Legwear, the parent company of BabyLegs. “They realize our products are the perfect solution for easy diaper changes, simplified potty training, skin protection and adorable accessorizing.”

This year, the three-time Earnie winner has ramped up retail options by adding BL BodyWear, gift sets

that contain one-piece snap suits and matching BabyLegs legwarmers in newborn sizes. The brand also worked on new marketing initiatives, including a re-launch of its website, shared with sister brand TicTacToe. Ash believes the brand resonates with retailers thanks to collections that span the calendar year. “They’re not just an accessory,” he says. “They are products that care for babies and children by protecting tender skin.”

For Spring ’14, BabyLegs is expanding on the success of its WinterWarmers by BabyLegs line. “We are constantly testing new lines and growing the brand so retailers can rely on BabyLegs as their resource for legwarmers, socks, footless tights, gift sets and body wear,” Ash adds. —B.L.

Since its establishment in 1853, Levi’s has been an innovator in the denim category, constantly developing new washes and fits, all while maintaining its signature red label look. But instead of sticking solely to the denim the brand is known for, Levi’s has instead turned into a lifestyle brand, encompassing numerous apparel categories—a fact which has helped the brand stand out in the competitive children’s denim category, says Dana Danizik, vice president of sales at Levi’s.

In 2004, the company launched its first kids line under Haddad Brands, and has been expanding in the children’s market ever since. “Innovation in wash treatments and elevation of product from surrounding competition,” made Levi’s a stand out at retail this year, says Danizik, who also credits new layering pieces for infants, boys and girls for the brand’s success in 2013, in particular.

This year, the brand launched its first non-denim boys’ collection, and expanded color and print options in the girls’ collection. And for Spring ’14, Levi’s will develop new length options for shorts

and bottoms, and will introduce denim in sizes 0 to 7 with new features like faux snaps with an easy slide and hook closure. “We know this will be a great liberation for the young child who wants to be independent from mom,” adds Head Designer Margo Tomsey. —B.L.

BEST COMMUNITY OUTREACH

Pediped

In a category packed with companies known for their good deeds, what makes Pediped stand out? “We have a real soul,” suggests Angela Edgeworth, president and founder of Pediped footwear. “We are real people who want to not only make a great pair of shoes that kids and parents love, but we also want to make a difference in children’s lives.”

A large portion of the company’s philanthropic efforts are coordinated by the Pediped Foundation, which was established in 2010 with the goal of enhancing the lives of children. Through the foundation, Pediped works with various organizations to come up with new and creative ways to donate money to children’s charities. “To date we have given nearly $2 million to children in need,” Edgeworth says.

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Last Memorial Day, the brand teamed up with Operation Homefront, which provides support to wounded warriors, to set up a “Buy a Pair, Give a Pair” event. The company donated a pair of shoes for each pair a customer purchased— more than $125,000 worth of product. Pediped also works monthly with Operation Shower, an organization that helps provide baby shower gifts to the wives of deployed soldiers.

Of course, it doesn’t hurt that Pediped is well known for creating a product beloved by both retailers and parents, and Edgeworth hints that Spring ’14 will herald an even wider assortment, as the brand works on “expanding into new occasions while keeping a tight focus on our commitment to comfort, style and healthy foot development.” —B.L.

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EARNIE AWARD WINNERS 2013

BEST GIFT ITEMS

Little Giraffe

BEST NEW COMPANY

Liv & Lily

Signaling what may be the beginning of the Etsy-era of retail, Melanie Pereira launched her growing brand of trendy children’s accessories by setting up shop on the popular e-commerce site in 2011. But it wasn’t long before Pereira’s wares were being sold in more than 150 stores across the U.S. and Canada.

“There was such a void in the boys’ market for fashion forward accessories at affordable prices,” says Pereira, who named the brand Liv & Lily after her daughter, Olivia and the flower of her son’s birth month (April). She says the brand’s “showstopper” is the Olivia headband, made of raw silk rosettes with Swarovski crystal accents, and spotted on the offspring of stars like Jennifer Garner and Katie Homes. It’s these types of luxurious details, combined with the brand’s affordable wholesale price point of $8 to $16, that’s made it such a hit with retailers, and earned the Toronto-based brand its first Earnie nomination and award, Pereira posits.

And while she is gratified to see the girls’ accessories making a mark in the industry, it’s the brand’s boys’ line that “completely exceeded any expectations we had,” Pereira adds. The brand’s collection of dapper fedoras, bow ties, suspenders, newsboys and beanies are filling a niche for stylish, sophisticated accessories for boys. “There just isn’t a lot in the marketplace,” she points out.

“Nowadays, moms are so fashion-forward, and they want their kids to be little replicas of their mamas and daddies.” —A.G.K.

When Little Giraffe’s signature plush toy, fittingly a giraffe named Little G, took home the Earnie Award last year for “It” Item of the Year, it was just the beginning of Little G’s soon-to-be-soaring popularity. It was also just the beginning of Earnie Awards for Little Giraffe. Known as the “shower wower,” the brand’s luxe line of blankets, plush toys and apparel have earned a beloved spot in the hearts of new moms—and consequently coveted shelf space at boutiques across the country.

“I think that what makes us stand out is we really do make the most luxurious and softest baby blankets that you can find in the market,” says Little Giraffe President and CEO Trish Moreno. “Customers look to us for luxury baby gifts. It’s a hassle-free way to give the perfect item,” she adds. Not to mention, Little Giraffe’s new boxed sets have been a hit with gift-givers and shop owners alike.

“You can see the product and touch it, which is critical to everything we do, but it’s still contained in a box and still looks great on the shelf,” she notes.

The brand has also been busy adding more blankets, apparel and toys to this mix this

year, but Moreno assures, “One of the things we’re always consistent with is the quality of our colors. Retailers can easily merchandise new products into their existing merchandise.” It’s just one reason why stores rely on the brand for high-quality product, Moreno notes. Another reason? “We have a great rate of stock replenishment, and since the brand is in such high demand, it’s a great strength that we’re always able to get product to our retailers,” she adds. —A.G.K.

BEST MADE IN THE USA COLLECTION

Tadpole and Lily

It should come as no surprise that Tadpole and Lily’s bestselling print is Madras—a classic style that is as American as the company’s homegrown South Carolina roots. And for owners Alex Krasnoff and Clair Robinson, winning an Earnie for Best Made in the U.S.A. is proof that the young brand’s values are res-

onating with retailers and consumers alike.

“It seems to be important to our customers that our products are Made in the U.S.A,” Kransoff says, noting that each item is tagged with a Made in the U.S.A. logo.

Seasonal fabrics are added twice a year to spice up the year-round selection of classic prints like plaid and polka dots. The line, which began with bespoke headbands in 2010 and expanded to boys’ ties in 2011, has garnered a loyal following with boutiques seeking something special to jazz up outfits. And timing couldn’t have been better. “Bow ties are seriously cool right now,” Krasnoff offers.

Just as cool is Tadpole and Lily’s positive effect on local business. “Not only are we creating jobs for Americans, but we’re stimulating the economy. For every dollar of manufacturing in the United States, it returns $1.48 to the economy,” Kransoff explains. Next year, the ladies plan on attending more trade shows, adding more collections and working as hard as ever. Krasnoff says, “The business doesn’t profit as much as if we produced our line in China, but to us it’s worth the wait.

This company is our dream.” —A.V.

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BEST BRAND REP

Thread Showroom For retailers in search of cute, smartly designed, modern children’s apparel and accessories, all roads—or in this case, avenues—lead to New York City-based Thread Showroom. Founder Terra Fazzio rang in the year with slight internal changes like adding a sales workshop to sharpen up her team’s skills and by adding more international shows to the calendar. “We are very thankful to the industry for voting for us again this year. It makes me proud of my team who works so hard at ensuring Thread Showroom’s reputation precedes us,” she says.

A two-time Earnie winner and a constant on the trade show circuit, Fazzio has mastered the science of presenting children’s apparel in a warm and welcoming yet contemporary showroom that buyers enjoy visiting. As Fazzio describes her showroom, it’s a roomy, modern environment that inspires retailers to buy creatively. She adds, “Our retailers are happy again and seem to be finding creative ways to merchandise and place their buys and overall they are very positive and upbeat.”

That fun and positive vibe is reverberated in the collections that Fazzio represents. From ironic T-shirts by Trunk and mini-me looks by Mayoral to quirky separates from Curio + Kind, this year Fazzio keyed into specialized product and designs that help differentiate retailers from competitors. “Anything soft and special with intricate detailing and new fabric treatments did very well for us,” Fazzio says of 2013. Mini A Ture, a recent addition, brightened up the selection with a pop of pretty color, while Stella Cove’s expansive collection was a favorite among retailers looking for head-to-toe resort looks. —A.V.

BEST BOYS’ COLLECTION

Andy & Evan

When Andy & Evan launched at ENK in 2011, Partner and Co-Founder Evan Hakalir marched up to an Earnshaw’s staffer and asked how his fledgling brand could win an Earnie. “And she said, ‘Well, it’s very easy: Be a great brand, notify your retailers and get them to vote for you,’” he remembers. And the rest, as they say, is history.

Since hitting the market two years ago with the Shirtzie, a tailored button-down one-piece with a snap-button closure, Andy & Evan has grown to offer a complete collection of boys’ pants, blazers, knits, sweaters, coats, ties and hats, now distributed worldwide. “We’re always trying to change the status quo,” says Hakalir, who, along with partner Jonathan Perl, left corporate America in 2009 with the mission of building an apparel company that was both product and customer service driven. “We offer consumers a reason to buy, whether it’s a design detail on our shirt pocket or even a hidden detail on a zipper pocket. It really makes a difference.”

This year the brand beefed up its design team and moved into a new showroom in New York City. “It has some old world design to it, which we certainly draw inspiration from on a daily basis,” he shares, noting that Boardwalk Empire and The Great Gatsby also inspired this year’s collections. “We always look at what’s great in pop culture and try to marry that with what’s been great from the past. We always look at menswear trends and overlay that with men’s fashion of past eras, particularly in terms of gentlemanly endeavors.” —L.M. 2013 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER • EARNSHAWS.COM 41

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EARNIE AWARDS HALL OF FAME 2013

TOUGH BUNNY

Celebrating 26 years in business, Miki Brugge’s beloved Tennessee boutique, Cotton Tails, is an ode to the owner’s retail acumen and Southern charm.

By Audrey Goodson Kingo

TAKE ONE DASH of Japanese minimalism, add a large dose of timeless style and top it off with a whole lot of hospitality: After more than a quarter century in business, it’s a recipe Miki Brugge has perfected at Cotton Tails, her Memphis, TN-based children’s boutique.

It’s also a recipe she’s tweaked through the years. Like any master chef, Brugge began with a rough idea of the ingredients she wanted for her store, and by listening carefully to her customers, she refined each element, one suggestion at a time. Take, for example, the shop’s original concept: “I thought that I would start a children’s store full of funky, European brands,” recalls Brugge, who grew up in Japan surrounded by the country’s minimalist aesthetic, and a palette of red, black and grey. An offbeat, Europeaninspired children’s boutique seemed to be just what the Memphis area was missing—but the reality wasn’t quite so simple.

“One of the first girls who came in, looked around and asked, ‘Do you have smocking?’” Brugge describes. “And I said, ‘No I don’t carry smocking because everybody in town carries smocking.’” Soon followed two more customers with the same query, and Brugge came to a necessary conclusion: “Maybe the reason we can’t sell this in Memphis is because nobody wants it,” she realized, adding, “It was a great lesson on how you have to listen to your customer.”

Today, the selection at Cotton Tails reflects the rapidly growing diversity of her shoppers, as well as the children’s market in general, with traditional layette sets (with smocking!) by Kissy Kissy sharing space with Eastern-inspired designs by Tea Collection. In fact, Brugge adds, Tea Collection’s funky styles sell equally as well as classic children’s looks from industry stalwart Bailey Boys. Basics—underwear, socks and shoes—are always a bestseller, particularly turtlenecks by Le Top. And through the years, gifts, toys and accessories have slowly but surely taken over more and more shelf space at Cotton Tails, growing from around 5 percent of the store’s business to approximately 25 percent today.

“Change is good,” Brugge muses. “I hate people who say, ‘We’ve always

done it this way.’” To live up to the mantra, she employs a variety of tactics to keep the 26-year-old store feeling fresh. “Sometimes, before I walk in the door, I will close my eyes outside my store, imagine I’m a customer, and open my eyes and begin looking,” she says. “On Monday we could change something at the store, but on Tuesday or Wednesday, we will change it again.” That includes both window displays and merchandise mix—a trick learned from her 15 years spent as a buyer for Macy’s, where Brugge’s boss would frequently declare, “We’re not in the wine business. Our inventory does not get better with age.”

Staying responsive to the rapidly changing children’s industry, however, is no easy task. Thankfully, Brugge has a secret weapon in her arsenal: Her daughter, Anna, now a New York City stylist. “I think people in the industry are intimidated by her. She has pretty much lived and breathed fashion since she was two years old. She knows when something is going to happen before it happens,” Brugge says, adding that Anna is the reason Cotton Tails carried Beanie Babies long before the craze hit its peak.

In fact, Anna is also the reason Brugge opened a juniors’ store, Sachi, in 2001, right next door to Cotton Tails. As Brugge tells it, “Anna said, ‘Mom I hate to tell you: I love what you carry, but I’m embarrassed to say where I got it from.’” To Anna, the Cotton Tails name carried too much of a kiddie connotation, so Brugge bought the space next door and let Anna stock it with teenage favorites, including Free People, French Connection, BCBG, Toms and Ugg boots.

Yet while Brugge’s customers may come for the store’s eclectic and ever-evolving assortment, they stay for another reason entirely: Brugge herself. When shoppers kept stumbling into her office, mistaking it for a nursing room, Brugge took it as a sign, and turned her office into a nursery. On her employees’ birthdays, the staff celebrates with food cooked up in an on-site kitchen. And when a long-time customer suggested the store offer free gift-wrapping, Brugge began offering the service gratis. With a natural knack for charm and hospitality stemming from her Southern roots—not to mention the business savvy that comes with more than 40 years in the retail industry—Brugge is respected by manufacturers, fellow retailers and customers alike. “I just try so many ways of us not saying no,” she explains. “Everybody loves to hear yes.”•

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QUEEN BEE

PHOTOGRAPH BY MCCANDLISS&CAMPBELL

With an eye for buzzworthy brands and dedicated service, Honey Smith, president of A Bit of Honey showroom, has made a career out of channeling her inner tween.

By Angela Velasquez

DON’T BE FOOLED by the laughter coming from Honey Smith’s New York City showroom, A Bit of Honey.

The veteran rep makes running a 14-brand, tween dream of a showroom in the heart of the Garment District seem like second nature, but when it comes to her clients—both retailers and manufacturers—Smith, who grew up in the industry selling her family’s embroideries to all pockets of the apparel industry, knows exactly when it is time to get serious.

“We laugh a lot, my staff and our clients, but I like to stick to basics: come in, make a plan and set goals,” she says of her no nonsense, focused approach to work, which she honed as an education major in college. Or as Smith’s husband puts it, she’s steady.

For 30 years, Smith has welcomed a host of retailers who loyally return season after season. The draw? The warm atmosphere Smith has created with easy-to-browse collections and a friendly staff (“I like to keep it familiar,” she explains.); her lack of ego (“I have a lot of experience, but if I relied on that fact alone I’d be out of business,” she quips.); and her readiness (Smith’s preshow ritual entails studying each brand, style number, color, price, delivery and pre-pack.). Not to mention treating each customer fairly. “We give buyers the attention that they need,” she explains. “We are always trying to help with their business and go the extra mile, whether they are writing a $100 order or a million.”

When Smith turned 28, she went into the rep business with a friend.

Two years later, rooted on by family and friends, Smith struck out alone.

She recalls, “I had a headache everyday, but I was up for the challenge and was going to make it work because I was supporting myself. There was no turning back.” Connections in California helped Smith land fashion-forward lines, including her longest partnership, CW Designs, which she continues to rep. The fancy dress label was one of the first hints that Smith had an eye for trendy togs in a market that was not yet coined “tween.” As Smith puts it, tweens had yet to hit the scene but there was an increasing interest in girls’ 7 to 14 fashion and in particular, items like fashion T-shirts and party dresses. “That was one of my strengths.

I focused on outrageous dresses, and then the market exploded with them,” she says.

Smith has lent her Midas touch to a number of tween trends spanning

leather bomber jackets to embellished denim. Looking back on these success stories, Smith says it’s a shock to realize that she was part of it.

“When you’re doing it, you don’t see it. You don’t see the impact on the industry,” she notes. Her attention has turned to au courant children’s collections from well-known adult labels like Vintage Havana and fashionable licensed apparel by the likes of Junk Food, as well as niche categories like camp and communion. Manufacturers that are strong in design and production, and execute on customer service, are high on Smith’s checklist, too, but she adds, “I look for opportunities that aren’t typical and markets that aren’t oversaturated.”

That’s easier said than done. Smith’s day-to-day duties keep her busy.

“I used to call myself a workaholic, but I think that term has a whole different meaning these days,” she says. She admits she is almost neurotic about following up with retailers on details and has to remind herself to get out and discover new brands and styles. Her Vice President of Sales, Liz Farkas, has been a tremendous help, Smith notes, keeping an eye on magazines and what she sees in stores. “It’s easy to get comfy with what you are doing, but you have to push yourself forward,” she offers.

In an industry that has been transformed before Smith’s eyes not only by fashion trends but by technology, the rep is edging her way into the 21st century with a revamped website and a robust Instagram account.

“Never mind computers. We didn’t even have a fax machine in the early days,” she laughs, admitting that she’s catching up. Still, a good reputation never goes out of style and Smith believes positive reviews via word-of-mouth have kept her in business. “If I was starting out now, there’s no way I could get around not having all the bells and whistles, but you always have to keep changing,” Smith adds. “Every year is a new year, and you’re only as good as the lines you carry.” • 2013 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER • EARNSHAWS.COM 43

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11/13/13 2:31 PM

BEHIND THE SEAMS

S Hear Them Roar

KicKee Pants leaps into bigger sizes and international markets with Catch a Tiger.

INCE 2007, KICKEE Pants has carved its own niche in a market fueled by consumer demand for softness by offering an alternative fabric option to the now-ubiquitous pima cotton trend. The company, known for its super-soft, tagless infant pajama and layette sets, uses a viscose bamboo fiber that is 100 percent free of harmful chemicals. And for Spring ’14, they lend the organic material to “big kid” sizes in a new line dubbed Catch a Tiger, featuring separates and dresses in sizes 5 to 10.

KicKee Pants Owner and Designer Erin Cloke says the launching pad for the crossover collection was KicKee’s coveted pajama sets. “That was the primary jump. Expanding in terms of sizing has a lot to do with retailer and customer reaction, particularly in the pajama department,” she says. After pajamas, polo shirts, leggings and maxi dresses join the mix for the collection, which ships in three waves beginning in mid-December.

“I remember as a child being so excited about getting on a plane and even packing,” she says. “We started [designing] from that perspective.” The first adventure-inspired looks are stamped with mermaids, mopeds and airplanes, or as Cloke puts it, “things that a child might come up with about what may happen on a trip.” The second collection is prepped for kids’ arrival at their imagined destination, with toucan and fruit prints in tropical lush green and bright pink colors. Lastly, the final styles wrap up summer fun with one last camping trip, full of shirts featuring tents and vintage Airstream trailers.

The playful, imaginative pieces are perfectly in line with the KicKee ethos, Cloke points out. “We celebrate innocence and looking at the world through the eyes of a child. People are too quick to push kids into looking like little adults,” she says. “They are still into pretend at this age and I think we should honor that.”

Each piece in Catch a Tiger, which wholesales from $13 for basic tees up to $24 for maxi dresses, is designed for hassle-free wear and mix-and-match styling, thanks to its consistent color palettes. The bamboo fabric also ensures pieces are stretchy, lightweight and non-binding, helping little bodies stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter, a particular selling point for KicKee’s pajamas, Cloke notes.

Despite the launch of a new line, and expanding into preemie sizes earlier this year, the brand has no plans of slowing down. The company now has its sights set on establishing a firm footing in international markets, and just wrapped up its first round of shows in the U.K. “If we don’t do it, someone else will,” Cloke points out. –Brittany Leitner

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Float On Swimwear brand Floatimini dives into the apparel market.

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ITH COMBINED DESIGN experience at companies like Haddad Apparel Group, Club House Creations and Topsville, just to name a few, Sehee Kim and Erie Chang were more than equipped with the skills needed to start their own line when they launched Floatimini six years ago. “Whatever I don’t have, she has,” says Kim of her partner Chang.

“I design silhouettes and Erie designs prints. In every piece, we put our skills together.”

In fact, the Floatimini launch wasn’t the first time the talented duo combined their creative energies. The two also collaborate as teachers at their New Jersey art studio, Teeter and Totter, where they offer painting, drawing and sculpture classes to kids and teenagers. “Being around creative kids definitely gives us energy,” Kim says.

It’s an energy that certainly translates into the thoughtfully detailed swim collections they create every year. Like many new moms, the pair decided to jump into the children’s market after having children of their own and realizing that kids’ swimsuits with both functionality and one-of-a-kind prints were hard to find. “We try not to have simple styles,” says Kim of the Floatimini collection. “We use a mix of prints and solid colors that work together to make something great.”

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Kim, who acts as design director, and Chang, creative director, are constantly on the hunt for design inspiration, particularly in vintage shops and museums. For example, the mixed floral prints found in Floatimini’s Spring ’14 suits were inspired by a visit to a New York City thrift store.

“We found blouses from the fifties or sixties and took that floral motif and recreated it for our suits,” Kim describes. Similarly, an animal print two-piece came to life after a trip to the Museum of Natural History, where the pair perused ancient African artifacts.

But while style may rank high on the priority list for the artistically inclined duo, function is equally important when it comes to crafting each piece. “One of our biggest concerns is using good material,” Kim says, noting that every Floatimini swimsuit is equipped with quick dry material that incorporates SPF 50+ sun protection and antibacterial capabilities.

Although the brand began its first season with girls’ and boys’ swimwear, Kim and Chang are now focused on girls’ suits and a growing line of apparel, which currently comes in sizes 6 months to 8 years. For Spring ’14, the line will debut its first collection of knit dresses, wholesaling for $16 to $22 and featuring ruffle accents, cinched waists and ribbon ties. In the following seasons, the designers plan to incorporate knit separates, including hoodies, tunics and leggings. “We are always thinking ahead and about what our customer wants to see,” Kim says. —B.L.

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11/19/13 5:03 PM

BEHIND THE SEAMS

Flashback Chichanella Bella’s vintage-inspired swimwear transports tots to an earlier era.

K Any way you stack it,

Dallas offers more for kids Dallas KidsWorld Market APPAREL. GIFT. ACCESSORIES. TOY.

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IDS TODAY MAY be computer-screen obsessed, and rarely find old-school backyard playtime sufficient, but Cara Lewis, owner of Chichanella Bella swimwear, remembers a simpler time. “I kept thinking of my grandmother and reminiscing about her life. I started picturing her as a child going to Atlantic City with her family and what a big deal it was in those days,” she says.

And while she can’t transport today’s tots back to the jazz age, she can certainly dress them for it. Her vintage-inspired line of infant and toddler swimwear and bonnets is embellished with ruffle trims, large polka dots and oversized buttons, reminiscent of the styles her grandmother sported in the 1920s. Her grandmother, whose parents came to the U.S. from Sicily, also served as the inspiration for the brand’s name. “Growing up, she always called me Chichanella Bella,” says Lewis, who even incorporated the English translation into her tagline: “beautiful little one.”

Lewis’ line, which is manufactured in both Virginia and Mexico, launched in 2009 and garnered immediate interest from retailers, particularly the brand’s all-black suit, a rare find in the kids’ industry. “So many retailers say, ‘I don’t know about black for children,’” she says. “But it ended up being our No. 1 bestselling suit.” Other standouts have been a yellow two-piece with pink and white gingham accents, and a one-piece off-the-shoulder style. “What’s unique about this line and what makes it a little tricky, is that vintage inspired things don’t go out of style. We still get calls from stores who want to buy our first collection,” she says laughing, “They’ve even offered me more money for it.”

Chichanella Bella is now sold in more than 150 shops and boutiques worldwide, including stores in Australia, Japan, Thailand and Dubai.

In the U.S., it’s available at specialty retailers like One Good Thread in Washington, Adorables in North Carolina and Kid’s Klothesline in Ohio.

Despite seeing immediate success with the label, Lewis insists her biggest priority is to honor her grandmother’s legacy. “I didn’t go into this saying I want to make money; I went into this from the heart,” she says, adding, “It’s been such a learning experience.”

The collection currently wholesales for $14 to $35 and comes in girls’ sizes 12 months to 10, but Lewis has plans to expand. “A women’s swimwear collection is definitely in the works,” she reveals, while assuring that everything in her line will always be vintage-inspired. She also plans on adding a boys’ line of trunks, and branching into women’s clothing, although she adds, “We will always stay true to our swimwear. Everything else will just be for fun.” —B.L.

11/19/13 5:03 PM

MARKETPLACE

Earnshaw’s Marketplace maximizes small budgets for emerging infant and toddler companies.

For more information, call (646) 278-1510 or email alexandra.marinacci@9threads.com

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11/20/13 1:09 PM

stargazing

What the A-list love at…

Kitson Kids, Los Angeles, CA

Lady Gaga was spotted picking up some gifts for her godson, Zachary, including a giant stuffed animal from Squishables.

We wouldn’t expect anything less from Mama Monster.

Stars come out in force to shop this SoCal mainstay’s trendy togs.

By Lyndsay McGregor

Denise Richards may have her hands full with five kids, but it hasn’t stopped her from shopping for Joe’s Jeans jeggings for her daughters.

Disney alum Hilary Duff loves to stock up on bright and cheery Hartford basics for her son, Luca.

K

itson’s selection of all things weird and wonderful quickly garnered a following 13 years ago when it first opened its doors. But it’s Kitson Kids, a mini-me of the tchotchke chain, which really brings out the stars, with its eclectic blend of everything but the kitchen sink. Lady Gaga, Jennifer Lopez, Jessica Alba and the Kardashians have all been papped while toting the store’s iconic blue shopping bags.

“It all starts with the buyers and how they translate the L.A. lifestyle and pop culture into creating an entire experience when you come into the store,” shares Director of Retail Courtney Saavedra. “It’s really important that kids have fun here so we carry product that they are really interested in and would pick up and play with. We try to appeal to them as well as the parents who have time to shop while the children are occupied.”

True to form, Kitson Kids is jam-packed with threads for trendy tots, like tongue-in-cheek graphic tees from Prefresh and Dilascia and pint-size designer duds from Stella McCartney and Chloe. Prices range from as little as $6.95 for butterfly wands all the way up to $695 for a kid-sized MercedesBenz SUV. “It’s so interesting how early kids today formulate their taste, what they like and don’t like,” Saavedra says, noting that Kitson Kids has helped launch a number of lines over the years and even convinced L.A.-based Sol Angeles to size down its super-soft sweatshirts and tees exclusively for the store. “We’re influencers,” she says, adding, “We were one of the first stores to do high and low fashion together, and we really put our stamp on it. It’s what our vision is. It’s how people dress in L.A., and should dress in L.A.” •

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11/13/13 5:08 PM

JANUARY 12.13.14 2014 PIER 92 NYC

MARCH 9.10.11 2014 JAVITS CENTER NYC

WWW.ENKSHOWS.COM/CHILDRENSCLUB WWW.ENKREGISTRATIONS.COM T.212.759.8055 F.212.758.3403

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11/20/13 12:38 PM

FOR GIRLS 7-16

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11/20/13 12:48 PM