WESTERN CHIEF SALUTES 125 YEARS
VOLUME 100 NUMBER 2
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T R I B E C A’ S T W E E N S C E N E
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O N T R E N D : F R I E N D LY F E L I N E S & F I R E S I D E S T A P L E S
FEBRUARY 201 6 $10.00
HURDLES PUDDLES
F E B R UA RY 2 016 Noelle Heffernan Publisher
FEATURES 12 Tot to Tween Carol Adams shares how ^[h jh[dZo Jh_X[YW Xekj_gk[ evolved into a tween mecca.
18 Changing of the Guard As Rob Moehring passes the XWjed je ^_i ied AWhb" j^[ jme h[l[Wb m^WjÊi d[nj \eh M[ij[hd 9^_[\" ed j^[ [l[ e\ j^[ YecfWdoÊi '(+j^ Wdd_l[hiWho$
FASHION 20 Jump
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Lauren Olsen Associate Editor Emily Beckman Associate Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager FHE:K9J?ED Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager
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Mike Hoff Webmaster
4 Editor’s Note 6 JWba_d] Fe_dji 8 Hot Properties 10 <h[i^ <_dZi 14 On Trend 30 8[^_dZ j^[ I[Wci 36 I^ef JWba
Bruce Sprague Circulation Director
We Love Colors unitard, socks by Happy Socks, Kenneth Cole ankle boot, Hanna Andersson tall boot.
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Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief
Allison Kastner Operations Manager
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On cover: Capezio leotard, Puma leggings. Bearpaw boots.
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Photography by Igor Borisov/Serlin Associates; styling by Mariah Walker/ Art Department NY; assistant styling by Dani Morales; hair and makeup by Lindsey Williams/Kate Ryan Inc.
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EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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editor’s note “SHAKE, RATTLE& ROCK OUR SOCKS”
LONG BEFORE MY son was born, I was quite familiar with how inconsistent sizing could run from one brand to another in the children’s industry. At our fashion shoots, a 2-year-old toddler would barely squeeze into a size 3 in one brand, and swim in an 18-month outfit by another. To some degree it’s understandable: Who decides what an average 2-year-old looks like, anyway? After all, some people grow tall, some grow out and some stay petite their entire lives. On the other hand, there’s an array of new technology on the market to help ensure fit, and, at the very least, sizing should remain similar across a collection. (I can think of a couple of popular brands that retailers reported dropping due to inconsistent sizing.) I now have first-hand experience with how tricky it can be to find kids’ clothes in just the right size: My 5-monthold son, in the 100th percentile for height, is already wearing some 12-month outfits. Looking ahead, I began shopping for 18-month footies—and discovered they were surprisingly difficult to find. That’s because, I assume, most tots are walking by the time they hit that size and long past the footies phase. I’ve dubbed this #giantbabyproblems. I’m not the only parent with #giantbabyproblems. At New York City kids’ boutique Torly Kid, Owner Carol Adams loves brands like U Go Girl, which go up to size 16. It’s not because she has a ton of teenage shoppers—it’s because she has lots of tall tween customers who already wear a size 16 but aren’t ready to shop in the junior’s section. Same goes for the younger kids: Adams carries size 7 and 8 Tea Collection dresses for her taller-than-average 5-year-old customers. “I always try and do a little crossover in each department because the styles change pretty drastically from size 6 to 7,” she notes. (To learn more about Adams’ tween-friendly shop, check out our On the Block feature on p. 12.) Savvy brands have already figured this out. In our November/ December 2015 Q&A, Rockin’ Baby Vice President Mark Jeynes told me, “I know from the feedback I’ve received from retailers that there are so few brands making young-looking clothes in bigger sizes.” That’s why Rockin’ Baby offers its playful looks up to a size 10. “I’m not going to lie; I don’t really think we’re selling to a 10-year-old; I think we’re selling to a large 6- or 7-year-old,” he explained. Chalk it up to improved nutrition or blame it on the obesity epidemic—no matter the cause, it’s undeniable that kids today are quite literally growing up faster than they used to. Retailers and brands would be wise to keep these above-average kiddos in mind when designing a collection or stocking the shelves. As always, it’s a good reminder to interact with your customers. When a mom walks out of a store because she can’t find a kidfriendly dress to fit her 5-year-old, it’s not just one lost sale. It’s a lost opportunity to develop a loyal customer. In other words, let #giantbabyproblems become your #retailsolutions.
The Long and Short of It With so many kids wearing off-the-charts sizes, it’s time to offer a wider range of designs for each age bracket.
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BACK COOL TO
Can't Stop! Won't Stop! One Stop Shop.
March 13.14.15 2016 Javits Center . New York City @childrensclub
Register: enkshows.com/#attend
Talking
Points Undercover Sources
I
Childrenswear manufacturers increasingly rely on top-secret materials that make products more convenient, comfortable, safe—and fun. By Lauren Olsen
N A WORLD where your new iPhone can begin to feel vintage within a matter of days, it’s imperative that children’s brands and retailers keep up, too. Thankfully, that’s easier than ever due to an influx of innovative materials available to today’s manufacturers. Here are six trends borrowing from the future, but making their mark now.
brand Natursutten, known for its natural rubber pacifiers, recently introduced its first glass baby bottle to the market. “Glass is the safest cWj[h_Wb \eh \[[Z_d] W XWXo"È iWoi K$I$ Z_ijh_Xkjeh LWb[h_[ B[Ye[kh$ ÇM[ know it doesn’t leak chemicals— It’s a stable material,” she explains. ?d WZZ_j_ed je ]bWii" i_b_Yed[ m^_Y^ 9^[mX[WZi 9e#<ekdZ[h B_iW =h[[dmWbZ Z[iYh_X[i Wi dedjen_Y WdZ eZehb[ii _i ]W_d_d] ij[Wc Wi W safer-alternative to plastic. Look for it in the brand’s new line of bibs.
MERINO WOOL
When Ralph Lauren and Oscar de la Renta are using merino wool in their kids’ lines, it’s safe to say that this ultra-soft material is a go. New P[WbWdZ#XWi[Z B_jjb[ <beYa e\ >ehhehi Emd[h BkYo M_bZcWd iWoi j^[ wool used these days is not what you remember from your childhood.“It’s like the cashmere of wool,” she states. The material is becoming increasingly popular globally, and Wildman lists the following Wjjh_Xkj[i \eh j^[ '&&#f[hY[dj merino wool her brand uses: It’s natural, hypoallergenic, biodegradable, renewable, sustainable, antibacterial and antimicrobial. On top of that? “It’s machine washable and tumble dry.” PLASTIC SNAPS
Metal snaps don’t only pose the risk of ripping the thin fabric often used in baby clothing—if they become detached or a prong isn’t secure, they can pose a serious hazard. Japanese brand Kaji Tech Co. Ltd. is bringing its plastic snaps stateside. Not many Americans know about j^[c o[j" Xkj K$I$7$#XhWdY^ CWdW]_d] :_h[Yjeh CWa_ Ae]W iWoi j^Wj these fasteners are a huge hit with Japanese moms. According to Koga, j^[o Wh[ Xej^ ZkhWXb[ WdZ ][djb[$ >[ iWoi KD?GBE ^Wi idWjY^[Z kf j^[ snaps, and mentions that Gerber has expressed interest in these safer Wbj[hdWj_l[i" jee$ 7bie" Y^[Ya ekj fbWij_Y idWfi Xo 8WXol_bb[ 8ekj_gk[$ NON-PLASTIC FEEDING ALTERNATIVES
The use of plastic in feeding products can be controversial due to the YWkj_ed j^Wj ikhhekdZi X_if^[deb 7 8F7 WdZ f^j^WbWj[i$ 7YYehZ_d]bo" brands like Lifefactory and Silikids have become popular with parents beea_d] \eh ]bWii WdZ i_b_Yed[ Wi Wbj[hdWj_l[i$ 7dej^[h [nWcfb[5 :Wd_i^ 6 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C < ; 8 H K 7 H O ( & ' ,
SMELL-GOOD FABRICS
Smelly feet will never be trending, and children’s footwear brands like @WfWdÊi ?<C; ^Wl[ _djheZkY[Z i^e[ _dieb[i m_j^ CE<< CWhl[beki EZeh <h[[ <_X[h \eh Z[eZeh_p[Z \eeji_[i [l[hom^[h[$ 7YYehZ_d] je ?<C; Dehj^ 7c[h_YWd 8hWdZ CWdW][h CWjj^[m 8kjb[jj" Y^_bZh[dÊi \[[j im[Wj ceh[ j^Wd WZkbji" WdZ CE<<ÆW Yejjed j^h[WZ jh[Wj[Z m_j^ nanotechnology—neutralizes any odor. INJECTED EVA FOAM
Imagine the lightest and most sumptuous material—and turn it into a i^e[$ J^WjÊi ^em \Wdi Z[iYh_X[ _d`[Yj[Z [j^ob[d[ l_dob WY[jWj[ ;L7 foam. The foam feels refreshing and fun and, according to Maddison Ek, fheZkYj b_d[ cWdW][h \eh LWdi A_Zi 9bWii_Yi" _j _i Çb_]^j#Wi#W#\[Wj^[h$È Ek notes that, most notably, the foam is used in popular athletic footm[Wh$ D[m 8WbWdY[ a_ZiÊ b_d[ c[dj_edi ki[ e\ _d`[Yj_ed#cebZ[Z ;L7 \eWc ed _ji m[Xi_j[$ De ]bWii ib_ff[h d[Y[iiWho \eh j^[i[ b_jjb[ \[[j$ (Caveat: The trace amounts of formamide that have been reported in ;L7 \eWc YWd cWa[ _j W de#]e _d fbWo cWji \eh iec[ fWh[dji$ WASHABLE LEATHERS
Muddy playdates can make for messy days, making wash-and-wear clothing a parent’s Zh[Wc$ @[d[l_[l[ <hedY[a" W Z[i_]d[h Wj Pediped, says that her team started using washable synthetic leathers for its shoes after noticing that “people were eating up” their other machine washable styles. “We thought ‘how far can we push this?’” The footwear brand says the synthetic leathers they have incorporated into their line have X[Yec[ W ^_j$ ÇEl[hWbb5È <hedY[a iWoi m_j^ a laugh: “It’s good for the inside of the shoe, the outside of the shoe and the mom.”
View our new SS16 & FW16 COLLECTIONS CHILDREN'S GREAT EVENT SHOE SHOW February 9-10 The Marriott Teaneck at Glenpointe Teaneck, New Jersey
ATLANTA SHOE MARKET February 21-23 Cobb Galleria Centre & Renaissance Waverly Hotel Atlanta, Georgia
MICHIGAN SHOE MARKET February 28-29 Embassy Suites Hotel Livonia, Michigan
BSTA
February 28-March 1 Radisson Hotel Manchester, New Hampshire
In-stock shipping & low minimum orders!
Gift Box Packaging Easy In-store Display
Visit www.pediped.com or email us at fulfillment@pediped.com
HOT PROPERTIES
Making a Splash
Tommy Bahama dives into swimwear with Amerex. Island-inspired brand Tommy Bahama is taking a dip into the kids’ swimwear market with the help of Amerex Group. Gleaning inspiration from Tommy Bahama’s adult swimwear, the kids’ collection offers a range of colorful and youthful prints, from vintage tropicals to whimsical pineapples. Manufacturing giant Amerex—well-known for its quality outerwear—was an attractive match for the Tommy Bahama brand due to its growing presence in swimwear and sportswear, reports Chrisann Furciato, senior vice president of licensing at Tommy Bahama. “Amerex believes in delivering a quality product that is consistent with the Tommy Bahama brand values,” he continues. “Their talented design staff coupled with our heritage of prints allows them to bring to market new excitement to the children’s category.” Set to debut in select department and specialty stores this month, sizes for the swimwear range from infant/toddler as well as girls’ 4 to 16 and boys’ 8 to 20. Wholesale prices range from $38 to $40 for girls’ and $30 to $34 for boys’. For more information, contact joe.ford@amerexgroup.com. —Emily Beckman
Llama Tales
Anna Dewdney’s bestseller branches into plush. Llama Llama, the beloved character of Anna Dewdney’s bestselling storybook, can now be brought even closer to children’s hearts, thanks to Kids Preferred’s partnership with Genius Brands International. The new Llama Llama beanbag plush will hit shelves this month, followed by a new hand puppet in May. “The magical rhyming rhythm of the book and the soothing effect that it has on putting a child to bed is absolutely infectious,” says Laura Perks, vice president of marketing at Kids Preferred. “And it all goes with holding onto your very own Llama lovey!” Wholesale prices range from $5.50 to $9. Target retailers include Amazon and Barnes & Noble as well as specialty gift shops. For additional information, go to www.gnusbrands.com. —E.B. 8 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C < ; 8 H K 7 H O ( & ' ,
Sole Searching
Nanette Lepore steps into girls’ shoes. Looking to expand her brand, Nanette Lepore teamed up with Josmo Shoes to create a girls’ footwear collection that maintains the Boho-chic style her fans love. “Josmo has many years of experience in the children’s footwear industry, and Nanette Lepore is synonymous with beautiful, bold, colorful prints,” says Sammy Esquenazi, vice president of Josmo Shoes. “Combining these qualities creates a dynamic partnership that will stand out in the children’s footwear industry.” Nanette Lepore Girls by Josmo Shoes will become available August 2016, both nationally and internationally, to specialty and department retailers. The collection’s classic silhouettes, including flats bedecked with bows, fringed cowboy boots and tall riding boots, are infused with Lepore’s statement-making style thanks to eye-catching embellishments and embroidery, as well as glittery finishes and soft, faux suede fabrics. Sizes range from 11 to 4 for most styles, but a few are offered in size 5 to 11. Wholesale prices range from $20 to $25. For more information, contact info@josmo.com. —E.B.
Lift Off
Tokidoki takes four brands on an extraterrestrial adventure. Get ready to take your customers to infinity and beyond, with Tokidoki’s new cross-brand collaboration with Ju-Ju-Be, Líllébaby, Kanga Care and Clek. All four brands will release products with a fresh, space-themed Tokidoki print. Ju-Ju-Be’s wide variety of bags and accessories and Líllébaby’s Complete baby carrier are currently available in stores internationally and online. This month, Kanga Care’s cloth diapers and Clek’s child passenger safety seats will also become available for purchase. “As Milennials and Gen X start having babies, they look for new trends that fall outside the typical pastel blue and baby pink of yesteryear,” says Kristin Hunziker, co-founder of Ju-Ju-Be, on the brand’s partnership with the popular Japanese-inspired lifestyle brand. For more information, contact bill@marquecommunications.com. —E.B.
The best American & international children’s brands
FEBRUARY IS THE NEW MARCH!
February 14 15 16 2016 New York, USA
170 collections
illustration Anne Laval
Fashion Gift Home
PARIS January 24 - 26, 2016 www.playtimeparis.com
NEW YORK February 14 - 16, 2016 www.playtimenewyork.com
TOKYO February 23 - 25, 2016 www.playtimetokyo.com
CHILDREN’S & MATERNITY TRADE SHOWS WORLDWIDE! FOR PROFESSIONALS ONLY
A+ Attitude
RESH FINDS
When Mathieu LeBlanc asked his daughter if she was excited for the end of Kindergarten, she replied, “Not really, I’d be more excited if I was retiring like grandma.” The cheeky 5-year-old served as the muse for Conversations with Romy, a book LeBlanc and illustrator Philippe Lagarde launched in 2013. The book was so well-received that it attracted a partnership with fashion house Nasri International, elevating LeBlanc’s brainchild from words to wardrobe. In Fall ‘14, Romy & Aksel launched in Québec, incorporating Lagarde’s illustrations into a children’s fashion brand. Now available in the U.S., Romy & Aksel aims to appeal to a less traditional retail demographic—dads—with its nap yarns and comfy slub jerseys. Available in kids’ sizes 2 to 8 and infants’ sizes 3 to 24 months, the collection wholesales from $7 to $18. Contact ranya@nasri.ca for more information.
Fall for this season’s balance of fun yet sophisticated styles.
Easy Breezy
Daniela Garces and Maria Ines Escobar launched Guadalupe Design as a way to employ traditional, skilled artisans across the globe, from India to Colombia in addition to small towns in Spain, Italy and Peru. Offering home textiles, as well as fashion and accessories for women, the two debuted a takedown line, GD Kids, at the January edition of Children’s Club. Offering 100-percent cotton styles for kids’ sizes 2 to 10, the hand-made designs are inspired by the artisanal traditions of India and feature block prints and rich embroidery. Wholesale prices range from $18 to $28. For more information, go to www.guadalupedesign.com.
Cute as a…
Smiling Button, a brand of 100-percent cotton play dresses, debuted last February with the goal of providing girls with easy-to-wear looks that will fit any occasion. “It’s just one dress all day,” says president Caroline Leed. “She goes to school, she goes to her brother’s soccer game, and even out dinner with the grandparents.” Offerings include five classic silhouettes for girls from 3 months to 10 years, in an array of seasonal patterns (as well as preppy staples like plaid, dots and checks, befitting the brand’s Boston home). In fact, fabric sourcing is one of Leed’s favorite parts of the design process. And in a nod to the brand’s name, every dress includes a smiling red button emblem on the skirt. Made in Massachusetts, the dresses wholesale for $36. For details, visit www.smilingbutton.com.
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Good Jeans
Launched in Israel almost two years ago, street-inspired children’s brand My Kids Jeans landed stateside in January with an affordable, trend-driven collection centered on—what else?—denim. “We want kids to look effortlessly stylish,” said Esther Silvera, executive sales manager of My Kids Jeans. Designed and manufactured in Israel, all of the collection’s soft, durable, pre-washed materials are sourced from Italy. Available in an array of styles, from acid-washed to distressed, denim silhouettes range from skinny to boyfriend. For boys and girls ages 3 to 15 years, the collection offers shirts, skirts, bottoms and overalls, wholesaling from $21 to $26. Contact mykidsjeans@gmail.com for more info.
Story Time
Portuguese-based brand Andorine was launched in 2015 by Maria João Lito and Luísa Amorim, with hopes of sparking passion and adventure in children. According to its founders, the brand’s name comes from the Latin word for swallow, an iconic Portuguese symbol. With each collection comes an original story to inspire young children. The brand’s logo doubles as each episode’s signature character, allowing children to fly around the world with every new collection. Based on Andorine’s journey from Porto, Portugal, to Tokyo, the first collection includes Japanese-influenced pieces, like a kimono-style shirt and a sweater reflective of the nation’s flag. Available in sizes 2 to 14 for boys and girls, the collection offers everything from dresses and jumpsuits to scarves and shoes. Retail prices range from $68 to $370. Visit www.andorine.com for details.
Fancy Footwork
Megan Linke decided it was time the children’s shoe industry kicked it up a notch. “My husband and I were not happy with the styles and fit of the shoes on the market, and the fact that very few were made in the U.S.A.,” Linke recalls. Taking matters into her own hands (literally), Linke became Manhattan’s next mompreneur by handcrafting a kids’ footwear line, which she dubbed Lili Collection after her son Liam’s nickname. Available from newborn to age 6, the collection offers everything from lace-up oxfords to booties and loafers. Wholesale prices range from $23 to $36, and all of the brand’s designs, including its signature Animoccs (moccasins sporting animals faces) are made in America. Visit www.lilicollection.com for more information.
Sound of Style
Take Cover
“As parents living in sunny Florida, it was a constant battle between enjoying our time outside and staying protected,” explains Maureen Schmidt. “So we set out to make a collection that is fun and fashionable.” Together with her husband Fred, the duo developed Shade Critters, a line of colorful swimwear that provides UPF50+ protection from the sun. Befitting the couple’s home in Palm Beach, the collection offers a bright array of beachready patterns. (Think watermelon, pineapple and palm fronds for girls and stripes, sharks and lobsters for boys.) Available for kids’ from 6 months to 10/12, the collection includes swimsuit sets and infant sunsuits, as well as camp shirts and leggings for girls. Retail prices range from $28 to $58. Check out www.shadecritters.com for more information.
Established in Toronto in 2013, Aisabobo was launched by husband and wife co-founders Jinka and Sharon Kagami as a gift for their future daughter. “Aisa,” the intended name for their first daughter and “bobo,” the sound of a kiss on the cheek, unite to form the brand’s unique name. “This is how we want to dress our future children,” explains Sharon. “Very elegantly. Very classic.” Fittingly, Mozart’s Minuet in G major served as the inspiration for the Fall ‘16 collection, debuting in the U.S. at the January edition of Children’s Club. True to her vision of boys and girls dancing to the tune in a ballroom, the collection comes in a spectrum of classic hues, including black, blue, red and gray. For girls’, the line offers structured yet feminine silhouettes with impeccable tailoring, while highlights of the boys’ line include a black twill blazer with red trim and an ice-gray wool jacket with navy trim. Wholesale prices range from $15 to $50, and sizes range from 3 to 12. Visit www.aisa bobo.com for details.
[ON THE BLOCK]
Tot to Tween For Carol Adams, the owner of Torly Kid in New York City’s trendy Tribeca neighborhood, necessity truly is the mother of (re)invention. BY A U D R E Y G O O D S O N K I N G O
N AN INDUSTRY often obsessed with customer metrics, focus groups and big data, Carol Adams relies on a refreshingly hands-on approach to retail: Talk to your customers. Even better, befriend them. It’s a fitting strategy for Adams, the owner of Torly Kid, a New York City boutique best known for its bright, stylish assortment for tweens. After all, she has two pretty reliable resources when it comes to identifying what kids want in her trendy, Tribeca ‘nabe: her two daughters, Tori, age 13, and Carly, age 12, who also serve as the store’s namesake. (Since the two are close in age, friends often referred to the girls as “Torly.”) Torly Kid wasn’t always known as a neighborhood hot spot for tween apparel—in fact, it wasn’t always known as Torly Kid. Adams purchased the shop 11 years ago, when it was a toy store dubbed Happy Baby Toys. The previous owner had built out the interior, set up a point-of-sale system—and decided to get out of the retail game after only two months. “It was the craziest thing. She put it up on Craigslist,” Adams recalls with a laugh. A former finance manager, Adams longed for a challenge, 1 2 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C < ; 8 H K 7 H O ( & ' ,
but she knew she wouldn’t be able to balance a 60-hour work week with taking care of her daughters, then 2-years and 10-months-old. “My husband was away for business in London, and when he came home, I said, ‘I bought a store today.’” At first, Adams named the store Babylicious and offered a range of gifts, toys and apparel for tots. As her girls grew, the merchandise began to shift toward apparel for the 7- to 14-year-old set—a coincidence of timing, Adams insists. “People always said, ‘You’re growing with your kids, and I was, but I was also growing with the neighborhood kids.’” When the store first opened, she notes, the area had morphed into a coveted zip code for parents attracted to its good schools and celebrity inhabitants, most famously Robert De Niro and Jay-Z. As the children in Tribeca aged, so must her merchandise mix, she realized. “When parents walked by the store with older kids, I >32
THE
CENTENNIAL CELEBRATION When boys wore pink and girls wore blue…
When gloves and hats were simply a must-do… When bell-bottoms became all the rage…
ISSUE
When sequined tutus took center stage…
WE WERE THERE Help us celebrate 100 years of success! Our April/May collector’s issue will provide a fascinating look back at a century of childrenswear. To participate in this not-to-be-missed issue, contact: Noelle Heffernan, Publisher (917) 886-6669 noelle.heffernan@9threads.com
OnTrend Pediped booties
Young & Free burp cloth
Autumn Cashmere sweater
Kids N Color plaid jacket
Livie & Luca shoe
Hatley sweater
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Bon Bébé bodysuit
Wyatt Lily faux fur vest
Kapital K bodysuit
R U N WAY P H OTO G R A P H Y F R O M P I T T I I M M AG I N E B I M B O .
Cabin Fever
While you can’t beat accessorizing with a cup of hot cocoa, ‘tis also the season for keeping cozy in high style. No wonder fall collections are chock-full of looks perfect for a rugged retreat at a hunting lodge, from antler-adorned tees to faux fur vests. And designers didn’t forget all of the woodland creatures frolicking just outside the window—look for foxes, bears and raccoons emblazoned across a variety of silhouettes. Of course, fireside staples like knit sweaters and fur-lined winter booties are also in abundance. Thankfully, the season’s cozy palette of browns, reds and dark blues should counteract winter’s bite—because baby, it’s cold outside. —Emily Beckman
Appaman trapper hat
Andy & Evan long-sleeve tee
Tuc Tuc
( & ' , < ; 8 H K 7 H O ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 1 5
OnTrend
Minymo long-sleeve tee
Contemporary Headwear hair ties
Feline Frenzy Fun & Fun
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Have you sensed a soft purr coming from the wholesale racks? Perhaps it was the yarn from the season’s winter knits that drew them in, but it’s undeniable cats are making themselves at home in several Fall ’16 collections. From paw print patterns to quirky graphic prints, the domesticated beasts left their mark on an array of apparel and accessories. Children’s designers may have taken a cue from womenswear, as the curious creatures were spotted in pre-fall collections at Gucci and No. 21. Or maybe such fluffy inspiration is just perfect for coldweather fashion—look for fancy felines rendered in fabrics like fleece and fur. Regardless, the trend is sure to be the cat’s meow. —E.B.
No Biggie bodysuit
Popupshop sweatshirt
Tiny Whales T-shirt
Egg by Susan Lazar hat
Bóboli top
Trumpette socks
Kickee Pants pajama top
Rashti & Rashti one-piece
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Q& A
Marking Washington Shoe Company’s 125th anniversary, Karl and Rob Moehring, CEO and chairman respectively, reflect on four generations of family ownership and the exciting road ahead for Western Chief.
Changing of the Guard
BY GREG DUTTER
THERE AREN’T MANY YecfWd_[i bWkdY^[Z _d j^[ bWj[ '/j^ century still around today, especially ones owned and operated Xo j^[ iWc[ \Wc_bo$ 7dZ j^[h[ Y[hjW_dbo Wh[dÊj cWdo '(+#o[Wh#ebZ companies actively repositioning themselves for future growth, as effei[Z je hkdd_d] ed W b[]WYo eh" mehi[" \kc[i$ 8kj MWi^_d]jed Shoe Company—makers of Chooka, Western Chief and Staheekum brands—is all of the above. The Moehring family has owned their A[dj" M7ÅXWi[Z Xki_d[ii \eh j^[ fWij '&, o[Whi WdZ _i dem fWii_d] the leadership baton to a fourth generation, recently naming Karl Moehring CEO. Rob Moehring, former CEO and principal owner i_dY[ '//'" _i i^_\j_d] _dje W Y^W_hcWd%[c[h_jki heb[ j^Wj m_bb b[j him focus on the matters he holds most dear—product design and innovation. Meanwhile, Karl, who has risen through the compa# do hWdai i_dY[ `e_d_d] _d (&&( >[ ceij h[Y[djbo i[hl[Z Wi 9<E and COO.), continues to position Washington Shoe Company for its next phase of growth during the rapidly evolving omnichan# nel revolution. 1 8 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C < ; 8 H K 7 H O ( & ' ,
The timing for such a changeover is ideal. Each possesses the abilities to serve the company’s current needs. Rob has always X[[d W fheZkYj l_i_edWho$ ?j mWi ^_i Z[Y_i_ed _d j^[ [Whbo Ê/&i je i^_\j \hec j^[ \Wij#\Wi^_ed" `kd_ehÊi#XWi[Z Xki_d[ii ceZ[b his father and uncle developed and to focus specifically on rain boots. It was a tremendously lucrative move. Inspired by a util# itarian fashion movement, the category exploded in popularity, thanks to the advent of printing capabilities that turned rubber Xeeji _dje Whj YWdlWi[i Wi m[bb Wi )#: cebZ_d] j^Wj jhWdi\ehc[Z kids’ styles into adorable, lifelike creatures such as frogs and lady# bugs. The Chooka and Western Chief brands became leaders in their respective rain boot niches, and Washington Shoe Company enjoyed the strongest growth in its history. And that history is pretty impressive: The company first began _d './' cWa_d] Xeeji \eh be]][hi _d j^[ MWi^_d]jed" Eh[]ed WdZ Alaska areas—as well as some shoes for women and children. ÇEd[ e\ ekh XhWdZi \eh Y^_bZh[d mWi 8_bbo 8kij[h"È HeX h[YWbbi$ Ç8WYa _d j^[ ZWo" co ]hWdZ\Wj^[h ]ej W Y[Wi[ WdZ Z[i_ij b[jj[h \hec 8hemd I^e[ 9ecfWdo" ijWj_d] j^Wj m[ m[h[ _d\h_d]_d] ed j^[_h XhWdZ" 8kij[h 8hemd$ Co ]hWdZ\Wj^[h `kij h[WY^[Z _dje j^[ iW\[ WdZ fkbb[Z ekj j^[ h[]_ijhWj_ed Q\eh 8_bbo 8kij[hS" m^_Y^ mWi WXekj '& o[Whi X[\eh[ 8kij[h 8hemd$ J^Wj [dZ[Z j^Wj"È ^[ iWoi with a laugh. The company, he adds, has always been at the fore# \hedj e\ j^[ hW_d Xeej YWj[]eho \eh a_Zi" \Wceki _d j^[ '/*&i \eh cWa_d] j^[ YbWii_Y Çh[Z jefÈ Xeej" WdZ _d j^[ '/+&i \eh f_ed[[h# _d] j^[ \_h[cWd hW_d Xeej ijob[ m_j^ fkbb#ed ^WdZb[i ij_bb fefk# lar today. That heritage is just one reason the company has been WXb[ je _da b_Y[di_d] Z[Wbi m_j^ [l[hoed[ \hec MWhd[h 8hei$ je :_id[o$ <eh <Wbb Ê', j^[ YecfWdo m_bb e\\[h fheZkYji \[Wjkh_d] Z[i_]di XWi[Z ed 8WjcWd" IjWh MWhi" <hep[d" J^ecWi j^[ JWda Engine and Hello Kitty.) Looking forward, the goal is to turn Western Chief into a
Yecfb[j[ b_\[ijob[ XhWdZ Xo [nj[dZ_d] _dje ej^[h YWj[]eh_[i$ HeX X[b_[l[i Zkh_d] j^[ \_hij o[Wh$ ÇM[ m_bb ijWhj beYWbbo WdZ j^[d ifh[WZ ekj \hec such extensions are more attainable than trying to launch additional j^[h["È HeX WZZi$ ÇM[Êbb ijWhj m_j^ ^ec[b[ii i^[bj[hi" Y^_bZ#h[bWj[Z XhWdZi \hec iYhWjY^$ J^[ YecfWdo b[Whd[Z j^Wj b[iied j^[ ^WhZ mWo Y^Wh_j_[i WdZ Wdom^[h[ a_Zi Wh[ _d d[[Z e\ ikY^ fheZkYji$ ;l[djkWbbo m^[d _j jh_[ZÆWdZ [l[djkWbbo ]Wl[ kf edÆbWkdY^_d] W ^WdZ\kb e\ XhWdZi m[ mekbZ b_a[ _j je h[WY^ WYheii j^[ Yekdjho$È el[h j^[ fWij Z[YWZ[$ Ç>Wl_d] '( XhWdZi `kij Z_l_Z[i oekh h[iekhY[i _dje ;l[d ie" j^[_h fhekZ[ij WY^_[l[c[dj _i h[cW_d_d] W \Wc_bo#emd[Z 12 pieces, and a company our size really can’t Xki_d[ii" m^_Y^ _i _dYh[Wi_d]bo hWh[ _d j^[ YedZe j^Wj"È ^[ [nfbW_di$ ÇM[ ^WZ d[Whbo j^Wj cWdo ]bec[hWj[ W][$ Ç? ^Wl[ j^[ bkYa_[ij b_\[ X[YWki[ Wj ed[ j_c[" WdZ dem m[ Wh[ Zemd je j^h[[$È ? ^Wl[ jme iedi WdZ W m_\[ m^e meha m_j^ c[" UP CLOSE WITH HeX YecfWh[i j^[ fheY[ii MWi^_d]jed I^e[ WdZ m[ ][j Wbed] dem _d Wd WcWp_d] mWo"È HeX 9ecfWdo _i kdZ[h]e_d] je j^[ jhWdi\ehcWj_ed fe_dji ekj$ ÇM[ ][j je Ze m^Wj m[ bel[" WdZ Ralph Lauren made, albeit on a much smallj^[h[Êi dej^_d] X[jj[h j^Wd j^Wj$È What are you reading? Rob: Car Guys [h iYWb[$ Ç>[ m[dj \hec X[_d] W l[ho Yh[Wj_l[ vs. Bean Counters: The Battle for the person designing suits and ties, basically, to So how’s life in your new respective roles? Soul of American Business. It’s about cWdW]_d] W ]_]Wdj_Y YehfehWj_ed"È ^[ [nfbW_di$ Rob: ?jÊi ]h[Wj$ ?Êl[ WbmWoi X[[d h[Wbbo _dj[h[ijthe U.S. auto industry in the early ’50s Ç>_i l_i_ed ^WZ je X[ Z[b[]Wj[Z je cWdW][ j^Wj [Z _d j^[ fheZkYj WdZ jho_d] je Yec[ kf m_j^ when the Big Three automakers had [nfWdi_ed WdZ \khj^[h ^_i l_i_ed$È MWi^_d]jed d[m _Z[Wi$ Ie j^_i Wbbemi c[ je YedY[djhWj[ separation of the business and design I^e[ 9ecfWdo" jee" d[[Zi je ef[hWj[ ed W ceh[ ed j^[ fWhj e\ j^[ `eX j^Wj ? bel[ j^[ ceij$ ?Êc sides. The cars were great, and busiief^_ij_YWj[Z b[l[b je h[WY^ j^[ d[nj ijW][ e\ also focusing on strategic planning, long-term ness was phenomenal. Then the bean ikYY[ii" iWoi HeX$ ÇM[ d[[Z je fkj c[jh_Yi WdZ _d_j_Wj_l[i WdZ d[jmeha_d]$ J^_i m_bb [dWXb[ counters got involved and that was the Z[iYh_fj_edi ed [l[ho `eX m_j^_d j^[ YecfWdo c[ je beea Wj j^[ X_] f_Yjkh[ WdZ Z[\_d[ d[m start of the decline. Karl: I’m a newsje [dikh[ j^Wj ekh l_i_ed \eh m^[h[ m[ mWdj je effehjkd_j_[i$ paper guy. I read The Washington Post ]e d[nj YWd X[ WY^_[l[Z"È ^[ iWoi" WZZ_d] j^Wj Karl: ?Êc h[Wbbo [nY_j[Z Xo j^[ effehjkd_jo$ M[ every day on my Kindle. his son has been performing many of those Wh[ \eYki[Z ed ekh ]hemj^ fbWd \eh j^[ d[nj jWiai Wbh[WZo$ \_l[ o[Whi$ M[ Wh[ WZZ_d] ceh[ \_h[fem[h" \eh What sound do you love? Rob: Oh, it’s J^[i[ ZWoi Yeef[hWj_ed _i W fh_eh_jo Wj example, behind our sales team to be of betthe pitter-patter of raindrops falling. MWi^_d]jed I^e[ 9ecfWdo" Xkj j^Wj mWidÊj j[h i[hl_Y[ je ekh h[jW_b fWhjd[hi$ ?jÊi ceijbo W Karl: He stole my answer. Rain is the WbmWoi j^[ YWi[$ J^[ Ce[^h_d] \Wc_bo \h[[bo ikffehj ijW\\ ie j^[o Wh[ dej Wi XkhZ[d[Z m_j^ sound of money. WZc_ji j^[oÊl[ Zed[ j^[_h i^Wh[ e\ ^[WZ#Xkjjj^[ ckdZWd[ Wif[Yji e\ j^[ `eX WdZ YWd \eYki _d] el[h j^[ o[Whi$ ÇJ^[h[ Wh[ W bej e\ Y^Wbb[d][i ed Xk_bZ_d] ijhed] h[bWj_edi^_fi WdZ i[hl_Y_d] Who would be your most coveted _d W \Wc_bo Xki_d[ii$ Oek ]e j^hek]^ ijh[jY^[i ekh WYYekdji$ ?Êc Wbie \eYki[Z ed jhWdi_j_eddinner guest? Rob: Steve Jobs. He was m^[h[ f[hiedWb WdZ Xki_d[ii b_l[i _dj[hi[Yj" _d] co 9<E h[ifedi_X_b_j_[i je ekh d[m ^_h[$ the master of innovation and creation. and sometimes it can be really complicated and ?jÊi W X_] o[Wh \eh ki$ Karl: Jeff Bezos. He understands the X[Yec[ oekh mehij d_]^jcWh["È HeX [nfbW_di$ future of e-commerce like no one else. <eh ijWhj[hi" _jÊi ^WhZ je b[Wl[ meha Wj j^[ e\\_Y[$ Karl, was it always a plan of yours to join HeXÊi m_\[" LWb" h[Y[djbo h[j_h[Z \hec j^[ Yecthe family business? What might people be surprised to fWdo" WdZ ^_i [bZ[ij ied" CWha" _i l_Y[ fh[i_Z[dj Karl: B_l_d] d[Wh I[Wjjb[ _d j^[ bWj[ Ê/&i" ? know about you? Rob: That I have a _d Y^Wh][ e\ ekji_Z[ iWb[i WdZ ^kcWd h[iekhY[i$ j^ek]^j ?ÊZ ]e meha \eh C_Yheie\j WdZ X[ fWhj sensitive side. [Laughs] Karl: That I Rob’s self-confessed hardheaded nature made e\ j^[ Zej#Yec h[lebkj_ed$ 8kj b_\[ Y^Wd][i$ relieve stress by gardening. ^_c mWho e\ ekji_Z[ _dfkj" Xkj W\j[h j^[ \Wc_bo J^[h[ mWi W d[[Z _d ekh YecfWdo$ Ie _j a_dZ e\ brought in an industrial psychologist to medi`kij meha[Z ekj" WdZ ?Êl[ X[[d ^[h[ [l[h i_dY[$ What one word best describes you? Wj[ Z_\\_Ykbj_[i WdZ ^[bf j^[c meha j^hek]^ Rob: Serendipity. I love living in the lWh_eki _cfWii[i" j^[ b_d[i e\ Yecckd_YWj_ed What enabled your family to work through moment. Karl: Driven. ef[d[Z$ ÇEdY[ m[ YWc[ je kdZ[hijWdZ m^Wj its difficulties? h[Wbbo Zh_l[i [WY^ e\ ki" _j cWZ[ W ^k][ Z_\\[hRob: J^[ a[o _i Yecckd_YWj_ed WdZ h[if[Yj" [dY[ _d ekh h[bWj_edi^_fi"È HeX iWoi$ AWhb YedWdZ m[ Wh[ ckY^ X[jj[h _d Xej^ h[]WhZi dem$ Ykhi j^Wj j^[ ekji_Z[ Yekdi[b_d] iWl[Z j^[ Xki_d[ii$ J^[ \Wc_bo ij_bb ?\ oek ZedÊj ^Wl[ j^Wj" oek WXiehX Wd][h" WdZ _j [Wji oek kf _di_Z[$ ?j c[[ji m_j^ j^[ fioY^ebe]_ij ed W gkWhj[hbo XWi_i WdZ YedZkYji Yed\[h`kij ][ji k]bo$ 8[_d] WXb[ je meha j^hek]^ j^ei[ Z_\\_Ykbj_[i ^Wi X[[d [dY[ YWbbi je ^[bf \eij[h Yecckd_YWj_ed$ Ç?j mWi Z[\_d_j[bo W jkhd_d] j^[ a[o je a[[f_d] ki je][j^[h$ fe_dj \eh ekh YecfWdo WdZ ekh \Wc_bo"È ^[ iWoi$ Ç?j Xhek]^j ki XWYa je][j^[h" h[[d[h]_p[Z ki WdZ ]ej ki Wbb h[Yecc_jj[Z je j^[ Xki_d[ii$È So where does the company stand now, and where is it headed? J^[ Ce[^h_d]i Wh[ \eYki[Z dem ed mh_j_d] j^[ YecfWdoÊi d[nj Y^WfRob: M[ ^WZ W ]h[Wj o[Wh _d (&'+$ M[Êh[ dej W ÇXhemd i^e[È YecfWdo j[h" Wi m[bb Wi jWa_d] j_c[ je Yecc[cehWj[ j^_i o[WhÊi dejWXb[ Wdd_l[hWdZ" j^[h[\eh[" dej Wi _cfWYj[Z Xo Ykhh[dj QWj^b[_ikh[S WffWh[b jh[dZi$ iWho$ Eh_]_dWb be]ei ^Wl[ X[[d Xhek]^j XWYa _dje Y_hYkbWj_ed" kfZWj[i J^[ m[Wj^[h Wbie Yeef[hWj[ZÆj^[h[ mWi fb[djo e\ hW_d" WdZ m[ ZedÊj e\ YbWii_Y ijob[i m_bb X[ _djheZkY[Z WdZ ieY_Wb c[Z_W YWcfW_]di Wh[ _d d[[Z _j je X[ YebZ eh idemo je Ze m[bb$ M[ Wbie hebb[Z ekj iec[ d[m b_\[j^[ mehai$ J^[ YecfWdo Wbie bWkdY^[Z j^[ M[Wh W 8_] Ic_b[ Y^Wh_jWijob[ fheZkYj _d_j_Wj_l[i j^Wj m[h[ ikYY[ii\kb$ Ie _j mWi W ieb_Z o[Wh el[hXb[ \ekdZWj_ed j^Wj m_bb ZedWj[ hW_d Xeeji" YeWji WdZ kcXh[bbWi je Y^_bWbb" WdZ m[ X[b_[l[ m[Êbb [nf[h_[dY[ i_c_bWh ikYY[ii _d (&',$ M^_b[ _jÊi Zh[d _d d[[Z$ ÇM[ mWdj je ]_l[ XWYa je j^[ Yecckd_jo" WdZ M[Wh W 8_] Wd W]]h[ii_l[ ]hemj^ fbWd" _jÊi dej YhWpo#W]]h[ii_l[$ Ibem WdZ ij[WZo Ic_b[ _i ekh i^em e\ j^Wdai \eh ^[bf_d] ki ][j je m^[h[ m[ Wh[ jeZWo"È ^Wi fh[jjo ckY^ X[[d ekh C$E$" m^_Y^ ^Wi a[fj ki WmWo \hec cWa_d] AWhb e\\[hi$ J^[ _d_j_Wb fbWd _i je ]_l[ WmWo '(+"&&& mehj^ e\ hW_d ][Wh X_] c_ijWa[i$ M[Êl[ ^WZ effehjkd_j_[i" \eh [nWcfb[" je jWa[ ed >34
ROB AND KARL MOEHRING
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B O DY W R A P P E R S L E O TA R D , H A P P Y S O C K S
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S O C K S , D R . M A R T E N S L A C E - U P B O O T, R U G G E D B E A R S T U D D E D B O O T.
HANDS); OZE SHOES (ON (ON FEET), CHO AMBUKD SHOES J , D R A T I N U S R WE LOVE COLO
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. IDE RITE SHOES S U N I TA R D , S T R WE LOVE COLOR
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C A P E Z I O L E O TA R D , P U M A B R A T O P, P U M A L E G G I N G S , N E W B A L A N C E S N E A K E R S . O P P O S I T E P A G E : B O D Y W R A P P E R S
L E O TA R D , H A P P Y S O C K S S O C K S , S K E C H E R S H I G H -T O P, L I T T L E L A U N D R Y S L I P - O N S N E A K E R .
WE LOVE CO L O R S U N I TA RD,
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CLARKS OXF ORDS; WE L OVE COLORS U N I TA R D , U M I SHOES.
B O DY
ARD RS LEOT WRAPPE
RS VE COLO , WE LO
LE
S ARM WORN A SOCKS ( S K C O S APPY ORTS, H PUMA SH GGINGS,
OPPOSIT
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E PAG E : B O DY W RAPPE
RS LEOT ARD
, CHOOZ E
LEGGING
NES. MARY JA & LUCA E I V I L , ) BANDS
S, CAPE CLOGS S I LV E R C LOGS.
HAIR AN D
MAKEUP
BY LIND SEY
WILLIAM
S AT K A T E R YA N INC.
BEHIND THE SEAMS HOSIERY
Sock Party
Cash Warren sets out to steal hearts with his playful brand, Pair of Thieves.
T
HINK SOCKS ARE boring? Meet Cash Warren. While the Hollywood film producer may be best known as the husband of actress and The Honest Company Co-Founder Jessica Alba, his latest venture proves he shares his wife’s entrepreneurial savvy. His goal? Elevate an everyday necessity—socks—and infuse the overlooked staple with a much-needed sense of excitement. It’s a familiar concept for Warren, who regularly sports the same pink-and-orange striped navy socks as his daughters. So when Warren decided to launch his own men’s sock brand (cleverly dubbed Pair of Thieves, since “one sock always seems to go missing”), he made sure the company embodied his grandfather’s business credo: “party in the back, business in the front.” Warren was inspired to create the company when he and his high school buddy Alan Stuart (as well as Stuart’s college friend David Ehrenberg) couldn’t seem to find quality, affordable, athleisure-inspired men’s socks on the market. “We thought, ‘Why are socks so expensive these days?’” he recalls. “It was an opportunity to do something unique.” So the three launched Pair of Thieves—and the brand immediately landed a spot on the shelves 3 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C < ; 8 H K 7 H O ( & ' ,
at Target. The trio quickly expanded to men’s briefs and then beyond men’s, launching Dad & Kid sets in Fall ’14 (MSRP $9.99), followed in Fall ’15 by a stand-alone boys’ collection for sizes 4 to 12 years (MSRP $3.99). “We want socks to be surprising and fun,” he explains of the brand’s design ethos. Warren says that his team is still selecting patterns for Fall ’16, but a cruise through the brand’s current kids’ offerings hint at a penchant for unique patterns (think checks and constellations) and unexpected colors (like hot pink and pastels). That’s deliberate. While the line may be targeted towards boys, he’s proud of the unisex nature of his team’s creations. “These are gender-neutral colors and designs—I don’t want my daughters always wearing pink and purple,” he says. “My oldest daughter’s favorite color is blue.” Given that the Dad & Kid matching sets are reportedly selling extremely well (and the fact that he loves to match his socks to his daughters’) he hints a Mom & Kid matching set could become available in the future. “A mom could match with her son [and] it would be adorable,” he says. After all, “If you’re not having fun, you’re not doing it right,” he laughs. –Lauren Olsen
Heritage hosiery brand Trumpette shifts into high gear with a new CEO.
“I
Change of Pace
NEVER KNEW I would end up buying Trumpette,” reflects Andrew Mull. “It’s crazy and unexpected.” Mull, who worked at the company as vice president of sales in the past before rejoining the team in May as CEO, explains that the idea of one day taking the reins had never crossed his mind. But his passion for the company makes his return seem almost inevitable. “It’s just an amazing brand,” he says. “Working for them opened my eyes up to how fun the infant industry can be—and is.” Trumpette (known for its collection of baby socks, apparel, and gifts) was founded in 1989 with an aim to inject more fashion-forward elements of design into infant clothing—a mission that’s clearly been accomplished considering the brand’s impressive heritage. After all, Trumpette is famous for being at the forefront of creating the nowubiquitous socks that look like shoes. For girls, the Original MaryJane continues to be a bestseller. (Think little purple, pink, or yellow socks topped with the design of a single black strap and bottom, resembling a Mary Jane shoe.) Meanwhile for boys, the brand’s beloved Johnny style gives socks the appearance of sneakers—occasionally with real shoelaces popping out. Building on its rich history, Mull says his key focus is boosting Trumpette’s name recognition with today’s parents by getting back to its roots. (Mull, along with his father, is one of the co-owners of Lakeview Innovations, which purchased Trumpette.) For the revamp, the CEO plans to turn the Trumpette name into a lifestyle destination. With a new strategy underway and its iconic designs, Mull is convinced that the brand has potential for great growth. “We have the styling,” he affirms. “We have it all.” Fall ’16 is still in the works, but Mull promises, “We’re going to have a massive collection—it’s going to be bigger than ever.” More precisely, the brand will roll out 20-plus new items this fall, instead of its usual 6-10 new SKUs introduced each season. (The collection will be available for boys and girls from newborn to 8 years, and wholesale prices range from $6 to $30.) As Mull says: “There is always an adventure in the baby industry—there is always something new.” —L.O.
info@josmo.com Booth# 80462
[ON THE BLOCK]
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heard them say, ‘No, that’s a store for babies,’” she recalls. Rebranding, it seemed, would be necessary. The first change? Babylicious became Torly Kid. Next up was adding a range of apparel suited to the area’s young shoppers, who Adams notes tend to be a bit more conservative when it comes to fashion. (Think sophisticated silhouettes enlivened with a colorful palette and fun patterns—nothing too flashy or revealing.) Or as Adams sums it up, “My motto with tween is: We carry clothes that tweens love and moms tolerate.” MIXING IT UP Even so, she adds, getting the range right has been a careful balancing act over the years. The biggest change she’s seen in the industry since the boutique first opened? “When I first started buying kids’ clothes, I’d buy three or four of each size. Now I only buy one of each size. My sales haven’t gotten down, necessarily, but in the beginning I had fewer options and more depth. Now I have more variety and less depth,” she explains. While Mayoral, Appaman and Toobydoo tend to be the shop’s bestsellers for both boys and girls, when it comes to tween girls, that variety is key. Bright, casual styles from Wildfox, T2Love and Zara Terez, as well as bottoms by DL 1961, are current customer favorites. For dresses, Sally Miller is a go-to, Adams reports, calling the designer “the queen of tween.” And for taller girls, Adams loves U Go Girl’s stylish basics, which are available up to size 16 (unlike most kids’ brands, which only offer up to size 14). “There are 10-year-old girls who wear size 16, and
they can’t shop in women’s,” she points out. Though Torly Kid’s mix now tilts heavily toward that tricky tween demographic, (Adams estimates that the category accounts for about 35 percent of the store’s total sales.), she still stocks an array of apparel for baby, including bestsellers like Lucky Jade, Magnificent Baby and Paige Lauren Baby—which she praises for its “delicious cotton cashmere.” That baby selection has been a boon for the shop in one other major way: its popular gift baskets. Adams works with several concierge services in the city to provide their clients with custom-designed, luxurious gift baskets, which are delivered in decorative boxes. “We get the clients’ information, including the age of the child, where they live, whether they are a more traditional or rocker type, and we build a basket based on their budget with those thoughts in mind. Then we put everything together in a beautiful basket, wrap it in cellophane and ship them out,” she describes. The idea was inspired, she adds, by one-too-many bad gift baskets her friends received at baby showers, filled mostly with stuffing and paltry plastic trinkets. Accordingly, the store’s gift baskets are stuffed with real products, like a matching romper and blanket by Paige Lauren, paired with a plush toy by Jellycat. EVENT WORTHY That personal touch, she notes, is what’s made the store stand out with local moms for more than a decade. “I really try to bring the neighborhood together and create some camaraderie, because at the end of the
day getting people in just to buy my stuff didn’t make sense to me,” she says. Today, that means a monthly tween book club, which sometimes includes visits from the book’s author. Adams also throws a tween party every year. While a hula hoop contest is standard, previous parties have also offered a French braid artist creating fancy up-dos, an airbrush artist crafting summer camp tees and a jump rope specialist teaching double dutch. And in September, Torly Kid hosts a Reviving the Renaissance sidewalk chalk contest—an idea inspired by the family’s trip to Florence, Adams adds. “In the morning we would see these artists drawing on the street, and we’d come back at the end of the day and there would be this beautiful piece of art, a huge mural, made out of chalk.” In fact, the store hosts at least five or six events a year, often on the topic du jour, like the New York City Kindergarten process. And every year is capped off with one of the boutique’s most beloved traditions, Christmas caroling in the neighborhood, finished with a cup of hot cocoa for the little ones and champagne for the parents. “That’s how our name became well-known in the neighborhood because we created a place to go to hang out, rather than just a shopping experience,” she sums up. That being said, the shopping experience at Torly Kid definitely doesn’t disappoint. The store’s bright and inviting jungle theme—with orange walls and pillars covered in animal print—is a perfect canvas for its playful product mix. Adams makes sure the look and feel of the merchandise complements the store décor. It all comes together, she adds, to convey the store’s overall brand, which she describes as a “downtown, casual feel” with an affordable price point. (The store’s average dress retails for around $65.) “If my store were very French looking, then my customer wouldn’t be surprised if I had a dress that sold for $300. The expectation is that the store is going to be reasonably priced for a boutique, so I work hard to keep it within that price range,” she adds. Maintaining that consistency is why Adams insists on doing all of the buying herself. “I let my staff takeover in a lot of places, but I never give up the buying. That’s what defines my store. That’s my brand. I work really hard on developing my brand,” she relates. Fittingly, the look of a garment is her top consideration when scouting the market (She jokes that she won’t buy any brands with Peter Pan collars.), but her second biggest requirement? Brands must be easy to work with. “I’ve dropped lots of companies who don’t make it easy to have a good relationship,” she reports. It’s as simple, she adds, as shipping goods on time, and accurately. Adams especially appreciates companies that are accommodating when presented with very rare special requests. One recent example? When last year’s warmer-than-usual weather put the brakes on the store’s outerwear sales, Adams asked Appaman if the brand could send the jackets to a shop in the Midwest instead. “This winter was the very first time in 10 years I asked them to take a product back, and they did without blinking,” she says. But what’s next for the popular spot—now that the kids in the ‘hood are growing up—Adams says is the “hardest question of all!” Without a doubt, the shop will continue to offer lifestyle activities and information that cater to its clientele. And since globetrotting is a family passion, Adams recently started a travel log on Instagram (@TorlyTravels), and is working on a blog where she will share travel tips for kids and tweens. “As a family, we love to travel, and I always have people asking me to help them create itineraries and plan trips,” i^[ Z[iYh_X[i$ D[nj ijef0 jm[[d jhWl[b W][dj5
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Q& A
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an equity partner that wanted to explode the growth, but always have decided against doing that. How important is the kids’ category to the company? Karl: It represents about 40 percent of our revenue. With so many brands making kids’ rain boots nowadays, how does Western Chief stand out? Rob: Children’s fashion is about novelty and whimsy. We’re always looking at ways of evoking those notions. That’s been the prime motivator for our designers. We started out with boots featuring 3-D elements to depict characters like ladybugs, frogs, monsters, dalmatians and so on. To this day, kids treat them almost like teddy bears, because [the boots] have personality and they can relate to them. In reviews, moms will say, “Billy sleeps with his little froggies. He won’t take them off.” We’ve had cases where retailers will just pull the boots off the floor if they’re low in sizes for some of the characters, because kids will have a tantrum if they can’t get them, and moms leaves the building. In what ways has the children’s footwear industry changed over the last decade or so? Rob: Because of their exposure to the Internet and television, children are definitely becoming more mature in their taste at an earlier age.
That’s where the licensed part of our business has really been important. It’s resulted in us providing more mature offerings to respond to those changes. Karl: Because kids do grow up sooner than they used to, we’re also adding more takedowns from our women’s lines—for example, lifestyle fashion boots made using waterproof leathers. Washable and waterproof leathers seem to be the next big footwear material innovation. Karl: Our DNA is waterproof so it makes sense for us to evolve in that direction, as well. Boots don’t always have to be rubber or PVC. Getting back to licensing—that’s a big part of your kids’ business. What makes a property a good fit for Western Chief ? Rob: It’s simply something in the market that children love. Our first license was Thomas the Tank Engine. We were inspired by The Little Engine That Could, so we thought we ought to do a little engine boot. When we showed the boot to one of the Nordstrom merchandisers, who had a 3-year-old son at the time, he said, “No, it has to be Thomas the Tank. He’s watching Thomas the Tank every day on TV.” So we went to Thomas and licensed that. Then we realized we needed something for girls, and Hello Kitty was a natural fit at that time.
In what ways is the childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s part of your business more challenging than the womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s? Karl: The kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; business is probably the most regulated business. When the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act came out in 2008, that brought a lot of challenges and added a lot of costs to the business. Every state always seems to be adding a new law we have to follow related to the kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; business, so thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a challenge.
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In what ways might it be easier? Karl: Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a 5-year-old today or a 5-year-old 10 years ago, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re still in love with cute frogs or ladybugs. So while itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a different customer every couple years, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also the same customer at the same time. The company has evolved to meet major market shifts over the years, but might the omnichannel revolution be the hardest one yet? Rob: There are definitely challenges with this because we have to be absolutely consistent throughout our distribution channel. We can no longer have a mom-and-pop store buy 12 pairs and sell a few at 40-percent off without instantly getting the attention of all our other retailers. So the major challenge now is controlling our distribution. Also, we need to create different tiers of products in each of our lines so they will fit the demographic niche of that particular retailer and avoid generating price wars. Nike is the greatest example of doing that successfully. They basically have one brand with about 10 different tiers spanning nearly the whole range of retail. Just by glancing at their different tiers of product, you know what the perceived value is. That is one of our big goals going forward. How do you envision the retail landscape in the future? Karl: I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going to continue to head more in the direction of e-commerce. Everything is going to the cloud, basically. Consumers are going to start buying items via any kind of electronic means possible and less in brick-and-mortar settingsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;unless that retailer really specializes and becomes like a Trunk Club store where you walk in and they have a personal shopper on hand who really takes care of you. If not, consumers are more likely to buy it on their phone. What might the shoe store as we now know it look like in 10 years? Karl: I envision it as something that is fully customizable. And with the new more user-friendly technologies coming incorporating 3-D and laser printing, it shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be too long before itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s feasible for consumers to design their own boots in-store or onlineâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;like they already do with NikeID. Remember when people used to go to their local mall and make their own pottery? Well, rain boots offer similar opportunities to express personal creativity. I think retailers have to embrace more of those types of in-store experiences to remain relevant. In a world of great upheaval and extremes, is there something comforting about being a family-owned business? Rob: Well, for one thing, everybody is all in. We all drink the KoolAid. To me, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a really fulfilling atmosphere to work in. We are also better able to stay true to who we are. When somebody throws a bunch of money at you, they are likely to expect maybe non-realistic goals. We are totally in control. We are in charge of our own Z[ij_do" WdZ m[ b_a[ j^Wj$Â&#x161;
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1. For stepping out in style, “Freshly Picked has the best moccasins for newborns to toddlers, and they are always inventing new colors and designs.” (www.freshlypicked.com)
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6. Mim-Pi ranks as one of the shop’s bestsellers for girls thanks to its “colorful designs and whimsical themes,” Fink says. (www.mim-pi.com)
2. Another brand that’s a hit? “We love Rylee & Cru for its sweet designs and unique custom fabrics.” (www.ryleeandcru.com)
7. “We just started carrying Modern Burlap, which is a line I love—soft swaddle blankets in black-and-white prints, which is good for babies’ eyesight.” (www.modernburlap.com)
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8. Fittingly, little guys love Joah Love, one of the shop’s bestselling brands. “Comfortable clothing, like this, always sells really well for boys.” (www.shopjoahlove.com)
3. The store’s top-selling toy? Hazel Village dolls. “They are such cute little stuffed animals, and they each have their own little story.” (www.hazelvillage.com)
9. For a more formal touch, Fink steers shoppers toward dresses by Lali Kids. “They have a timeless look, and they’re perfect for playtime because they’re not too fussy.” (www.lalikids.com)
4. Vierra Rose earns top marks for its mix-and-match versatility. “It has a great little feminine touch, but you can mix it. We’ve even sold it with a boys’ plaid top!” (www.vierrarose.com)
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5. A great way to give back? Fink suggests necklaces by Pray4Trax, a philanthropic collection launched to help a family with a son suffering from Cystic Fibrosis. “One-hundred percent of the proceeds go to that family to pay for medical bills,” Fink says. (www. thelittlevikings.net)
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10. “What little kid doesn’t want to be comfortable when they’re playing? For boys and girls, Nununu provides that comfort level.” (www.nununuworld.com)
Mother-daughter duo takes customer service to the next level.
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