Earnshaw's | February 2019 by Wainscot Media

2019 $10.00

TH E M OJ O BEH I ND MO LO FA LL SH O E PRE VI E W TREN D WATCH : LEOPA R D O N TH E P ROWL

SO P H I STI CATE D STRE E T WE AR FOR TH E CH I LL SE AS O N

Photo by: Eric Espino

CHILDREN’S CLUB MAGIC Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas February 5th-7th, Booth# 33030 www.andyandevan.com

CHILDREN’S CLUB Jacob Javits Center, NYC March 3rd-6th sales@andyandevan.com

212.967.7908

FEBRUARY 2019 CONTENTS

FEATURE S 8 European Accent Mogens Jepsen, CEO of Molo, elevates the Scandinavian brand’s unique identity with cutting-edge designs and global appeal. By Emily Beckman

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

14 Good for the Sole Keep in step with the stylish statements of Fall ’19. By Emily Beckman

EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor

20 La La Land A fusion of sporty silhouettes jazzed by pops of leopard, plaid and camo add star power to streetwear this fall. By Mariah Walker

ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION

32 Bold for the Cold Outrageous, oversized and outstanding, statement outerwear took the runway by storm at the recent Pitti Bimbo trade show. By Emily Beckman

Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE

DEPART MEN TS

Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018 Lee Zapis, CEO Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

4 Editor’s Note 6 Scene & Heard

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher

12 A Note to My Younger Self 18 Trend Watch

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

34 Haute Topics

9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

36 Behind the Seams 38 What’s Selling 40 Final Cut

On cover: Harper wears cape by ML Kids and cardigan by Mademoiselle à SoHo. Photography by Franck Malthiery/ Kate Ryan Inc; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; hair and makeup by Simon Ruhana using Glossier/Art Department; digital management by Benoist Lechevallier; styling assistance by May White.

CONTACT INFO

PAGE

20 This page, from left to right: Harper wears jacket by MIA, windbreaker by Hurley, Molo track pants and stylist’s own barrettes; Milla wears Hurley cap and pants, O8 Lifestyle windbreaker, Desigual shirt and Converse fanny pack.

Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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ELEVATED LIFESTYLE COLLECTIONS FOR CHILDREN

Children’s Club is an international exhibition featuring every category of children’s clothing from newborn to tween, layette items, fashion accessories, footwear, toys and gifts. Exhibiting brands reflect an eclectic base of established collections and new designers bursting onto the scene. Children’s Club is an excellent opportunity to be seen by the medium to better children’s specialty retailers and boutiques.

NEW YORK CITY MARCH 3-5, 2019 I AUGUST 4-6, 2019

LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 5-7, 2019 I AUGUST 2019

UBMFASHION.COM

EDITOR’S NOTE

Dreamweavers

T WAS ENCOURAGING to walk the opening day of the recent Pitti Immagine Bimbo show in Florence, Italy, and see the aisles packed! And it wasn’t just window shoppers. Buyers were sitting seat to seat in booth after booth, actively writing orders. Was I transported back in time to the go-go ’90s? (Many of the fashions did have a grunge-meets-hip-hop vibe.) Might it be an economic tailwind? (Perhaps, but the volatility associated with any such forecast is nothing to hang your hat on.) Has the consolidation of retail reached a level where “put pen to paper” people are the sole survivors? Were Fall ’19 collections just that good? Could the improvement stem from the Pitti Bimbo organizers’ efforts to draw traffic in the weeks leading up to the show, enticing buyers with a line-up of fashion shows, Barbie’s 60th anniversary celebration and seminars? The answer is likely a combination of all the above. Every show needs a mix of good fortune, momentum and attractions to succeed. Above all, a show’s success depends on exhibitors delivering the goods. Fortunately, Pitti Bimbo delivered. The Fall ’19 collections on display were as broad as they were diverse, and as enticing as they were inspiring. Dolce & Gabbana’s jacquard and heraldic prints for babies and organza, chiffon and poplin dresses for girls showcased in an enchanted forest setting of giant mushrooms and stuffed toy rabbits were fashion fairy tales come true. Lorenzo Serafini’s collection of edgier children’s knitwear, sweatshirt mini-dresses, Lurex and zebra stripes had ’90s street fashions on total recall. Meanwhile, Paolo Pecora took a different route, whisking customers to the Alps with snowboarding motifs, large pockets and patterns from crosscountry ski jerseys. Cursive embroidery, graffiti screen-prints, hearts, hedgehogs and peace signs motifs were other popular themes found throughout the show. It was a cornucopia of color, cuts and curated assortments. While the too-cute factor played strong as always, many designers upped the ante to incorporate meaningful messages into their collections. Timely and sensitive issues like mental health, self-esteem, sustainability, love and friendship were woven into wearable designs. The messaging was clear but not too heavy. (This is still childrenswear, after all.) Italian fashion label Stella Jean’s collection, for example, is an ode to multiculturalism, including masculine fabrics combined with tribal patterns and waves reminiscent of Japanese prints. Marcelo Burlon presented a line of sweatshirts and T-shirts featuring all-over prints paired with endangered wild animals in collaboration with the World Wildlife Fund. A portion of sales will

support the environmental organization. Scandinavian brand Molo’s collection featured an “it’s okay to be different” theme. Examples included “different together” tracksuits with macro sports graphics that say “good spirit,” and striking interstellar designs with the banner “Children of the Universe.” CEO Mogens Jepsen, the subject of this issue’s Q&A (p. 8), believes touching on larger societal issues is important, especially in today’s increasingly divided political landscape. As a parent of three children, the exec believes it’s his duty to try and make the world a better place. As an entrepreneur who launched his business in a makeshift office in his tiny bedroom 16 years ago, it’s not in his blood to sit back and wait for someone else to do it. The company, known for its quirky streetwear aesthetic in baby to age 16. Distribution spans hundreds of leading accounts worldwide and includes 11 company-owned concept stores and a staff of more than 130 employees. Not bad for a two-person startup working out of a tiny apartment bedroom. The story of Molo’s rise to prominence—driven by a dream, hard work and determination—is inspiring. It can be done. Entrepreneurs like Jepsen are behind so many success stories in our wonderful industry. They’re people who decided to just do it. They blend grit, talent, innovation, resilience, timing and, perhaps most of all, passion into a recipe for success. Jil Garcia, president of Malibu Sugar and writer of “A Note to My Younger Self” (p. 12), started her tween brand in her living room. Divorced with two toddlers to raise on her own at age 34, Garcia picked up the pieces and got to work. It was part-time jobs to make ends meet at first, but after making a monogrammed T-shirt for her daughter and, soon after, for the neighborhood kids, the seeds of what would become Malibu Sugar take root. Garcia’s entrepreneurial road to success was bumpy and included a few detours. But she persevered. More importantly, she fulfilled her greatest goal of all: setting an example for her children. Entrepreneurs at various stages of their journeys lined the aisles of Pitti Bimbo just like other childrenswear shows around the world. Whether they’re newbies in startup mode (a few samples on display in a pipe-and-drape booth) or old pros in booths that look like a tricked-out showrooms, resilience is in their DNA. They continue to dream—one collection, conversation and order at a time. While the road to success may be long, winding and bumpy, they persevere, oftentimes against what seem like insurmountable odds. In doing so they set a fine example for us all to follow our dreams. In the immortal words of Christopher Robin: “You’re braver than you believe, stronger than you seem and smarter than you think.”

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

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Children’s Fashion and Footwear – 0 to 16 years ATLANTA • CHICAGO • DALLAS • LOS ANGELES • NEW YORK • MONTREAL • TORONTO • VANCOUVER

MAYORAL USA INC. Miami FL T 305.779.4305 mayoral.usa@mayoral.com

SC E N E & H E A R D

Barbie’s 60th birthday exhibition inspires young girls at the January edition of Pitti Immagine Bimbo.

Barbie Turns 60! THE YEAR WAS 1959: Alaska became the 49th state, Fidel Castro rose to power in Cuba, NASA introduced the first astronauts (including moon walker Alan Shepard) and Mattel introduced Barbie. Little did the world know back then that the quintessential American woman would have more staying power than even Castro! Marking the big 6-0 (although she still doesn’t look a day over 20), Mattel is embarking on a worldwide birthday bash, celebrating Barbie’s mission to motivate and inspire young girls to dream big like she has for generations. “Barbie has always represented choices for girls and inspired them to be anything,” says Marissa Beck, a Mattel spokesperson. “From

A u t u m n C a s h m e r e N o w f o r B oy s KNOWN FOR ITS luxury cashmere knitwear, Autumn Cashmere is releasing a boys’ capsule collection for Fall ’19. The brand has been growing its childrenswear clientele since launching a girls’ line in 2012, and the expansion is the next stage of growth, according to Amanda Wachsmuth, sales director for the children’s and men’s collections. “Customers have shown interest in boys, so we wanted to introduce it as a small capsule,” she says. Made with Merino wool and cashmere, the collection includes five styles, sizes 4 to 16. The line features core basics like a ribbed bottom crew, two-button thermal Henley, color-block saddle shoulder, cool-cover stitching and a camo print. The suggested retail range is from $130 to $150. Wachsmuth reports strong initial feedback from buyers, which has encouraged the brand to expand into a full collection in future seasons. “It’s been very exciting,” she says. “We’re known for our cool graphics and prints, so that’s definitely something we’d love to showcase more in the future.”

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princess to president, astronaut to robotics engineer, there isn’t a plastic ceiling that Barbie hasn’t broken.” Despite the average toy brand only lasting three to five years, Barbie has proven her staying power, evolving to reflect children as society changes. “Because Barbie has evolved beyond just a doll to a global power franchise, she offers a variety of ways for fans to connect with her through content, programming and product to inspire storytelling and imagination,” Beck says. With today’s movement of female empowerment, Barbie’s messaging is even more relevant. This year, Barbie will be highlighting careers she’s had in the past, including occupations where women are still underrepresented such as firefighter, astronaut and political candidate. Barbie is even championing girls’ limitless potential with the Dream Gap Project, which is Barbie’s multi-year global initiative to raise awareness around limiting factors that prevent girls from reaching their full potential. The goal of The Dream Gap Project is to leverage Barbie’s global platforms to educate society on gender biases and inspire supporters to join in inspiring girls to be anything. In celebration of the anniversary, the brand is launching special career and anniversary dolls, along with other offerings. Brand partners and retailers will collaborate globally to host experiential celebrations for customers to engage with Barbie for her milestone. The iconic doll will also continue its Role Model program, celebrating global role models (or “Sheroes” as Barbie calls them) who are breaking boundaries for the next generation of girls. “Our founder, Ruth Handler, created Barbie to inspire the limitless potential in every girl and that remains our driving mission 60 years later,” Beck says. “As the Barbie team, we hope to leave this brand better than we found it, and we do not take the responsibility lightly.”

E l e g a n t B a b y A d d s t o S a l e s Te a m

ELEGANT BABY IS adding two well-known children’s apparel representatives in the New York and Midwest territories, respectively. The new partnerships are part of a strategic growth plan that includes increasing brand awareness and

consumer engagement with a focus on specialty retailers. Ali Moroze of Ali’s Market brings a degree in fashion and more than 13 years of experience to her award-winning Manhattan showroom. Husband and wife duo Tom and Vicki Leckie of Victoria’s Keepsakes have represented brands from their headquarters in Redford, MI, since 1989, and will be overseeing the Midwest region. “Their unique understanding of their markets and unbridled enthusiasm are tremendous assets,” says Yates Hooper, president and CEO of Elegant Baby. “I’m excited knowing they will bring Elegant Baby to new accounts within the children’s apparel market.”

Q&A European Accent Mogens Jepsen, CEO of Molo, elevates the Scandinavian brand’s unique identity with cutting-edge designs and global appeal. BY EMILY BECKMAN

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adapt to what once may have come easy,” he says. “We must actively discuss what can be done to support the new landscape because those who ignore what’s in front of them aren’t going to survive.” Jepsen, as always, is looking for the path to success. An avid soccer player growing up, Jepsen compares trying to win at fashion retail to his days competing on the pitch. “If you wanted to make the Champion league, you had to practice every day—run that extra mile,” he says. “The same goes for running a business—going the extra mile to support a customer as soon as they walk in, listening to your partners, acting quickly on feedback—that’s how champions are made in retail.” Jepsen’s strong work ethic stems from a childhood of toiling on his parents’ farm in Varde, Denmark. “I still remember the scent of the meadows when my family would collect hay in the summertime,” he says, adding, “Lots of hard work and never anything

REGARDLESS OF THE challenge, Mogens Jepsen believes there’s always a path to success. No matter the potholes, roadblocks or detours, where there’s a will, there’s a way. Even in today's rockiest of retail landscapes—where some roads have been washed out entirely—Jepsen finds a way to lead his Copenhagen-based apparel company to where it needs to go, which he has done since launching in 2003. Known for its bold colorways, prints and silhouettes, Molo fuels children’s imaginations as well as retailers’ bottom lines worldwide. “Our prints give character to even the smallest personalities,” Jepsen says. “Each season is urban, funky and colorful with a twist that’s just quirky enough to get noticed, while never sacrificing quality.” Exactly how did Jepsen lead Molo here? Is he in possession of some secret retail roadmap? Is he a savant of corporate strategy and forecasting? Might he have some sort of GPS-like device embedded in his brain? Actually, it’s much more realistic than any secret Molo mojo. In fact, Jepsen’s approach to business is stripped down and very Scandinavianlike. “We all just have to get up earlier in the morning,” he says, believing the recent market turbulence is not leading the industry to a dead end or, worse, off a cliff. “It’s not retail dying; it’s the industry learning to

“KIDS' CLOTHING WENT FROM BEING A PRODUCT TO BEING SOMETHING THAT HAS A STORY.”

generous severance check in hand, Jepsen switched gears—thanks to the encouragement from his wife, Rikke—to follow his entrepreneurial dreams. Focusing on what he believed to be a golden opportunity in children’s casual playwear in sizes 2-8, Jepsen and design partner, Louise Frederiksen, got to work. The year was 2003, and it was a corporate culture shock at first. “I went from sitting in a big office to working from a tiny office set up in the bedroom of our apartment,” he says, shrinking from an environment of 2,500 employees to two. It didn’t matter though. Jepsen believed he was finally on the right path. “For the first time in my life, I really loved going to work,” he says. Personal satisfaction quickly translated to profession gains. Molo grew steadily out of the gate. “We sold out immediately,” he says, noting that when his second child was born, his team surprised him with a baby collection. The gift would go on to pay big dividends for Molo as the brand quickly extended into that size range. “Seeing that little collection come to life really got us excited and sparked more years of development,” Jepsen says. Since the salad days, Molo has mushroomed in terms of number of categories, breadth of selection, age range (baby to age 16), market expansion (more than 700 leading specialty and department stores, including Harrods in London and Barneys in New York) and employees (130 worldwide, at last count). Fusing out-of-the-box Scandinavian

www.kidsonthemoon.com

to do with fashion!” (Laughs) A career far-removed from fashion had seemed exactly the plan for Jepsen. At age 18, he enrolled in Up with People, an organization dedicated to introducing young adults to international cultures and customs. Jepsen traveled the world, including spending more than a year in the U.S. where he lived with more than 50 families nationwide. It was a crash course in cultures, opening Jepsen’s eyes to the world around him—how people lived, loved and laughed. “It was an extraordinary experience that taught me the outstanding power that comes from building relationships,” he says. Upon returning to Denmark in 1991, Jepsen first entered the work force in food retail. It’s where he learned the business of fast-moving consumer goods. But Jepsen lost his taste for the business about a decade later. Fashion seemed far more appealing. The product, the speed to market, the creativity. Step one was landing a position in the Scandinavian division of Esprit, where Jepsen worked for two years before being recruited by IC Companys, one of the Nordic region’s largest apparel businesses. “I was retail director of over 50 stores worldwide, however I didn’t agree with some strategies being implemented,” he says. “I probably was too nice of a guy for that role, and eventually they decided to kick me out.” It was a serendipitous sacking, however. Schedule cleared and

contact: lepassageshowroom@gmail.com

design concepts with superior customer service, the company operates sales offices and showrooms in England, Germany, Netherlands, Belgium, France, Sweden, Norway, Finland, Hong Kong and the U.S., as well as distributor agreements in Russia, Spain and the Far East. It has also introduced 11 concept shops run by its own staff in Norway, Denmark, Sweden and Hong Kong. “It’s been a crazy ride, but it’s been fantastic,” Jepsen says. “We feel privileged that we’ve been capable of hiring some of the coolest designers on earth.” For Fall ’19, Molo is embracing global diversity with messages of respect, kindness and friendship. “The concept is ‘let’s be different together,’” Jepsen says, noting that inspiration usually comes from the ongoing dialogue the Molo team has with its retail partners. “We are focusing on the respect between people, between kids, between beliefs—an important lesson delivered in a creative and fashion-forward way,” he adds. The collection promotes togetherness in all corners of the world (and beyond) with sports to space-themed graphics and phrases like, SMALL TAL “Wonders of the Universe,” “Good Spirit” and “Love is Real” in a range of streetwear silhouettes. Jepsen says What are you reading? Emails, expect a few collaborations lot of them. to roll out later this year that What are you watching? include themes of friendship, The news, which my kids think is self-love and world peace. boring. “Collaborations are becoming Who is most influential in a big deal in childrenswear— fashion right now? The collabit’s a great way to leverage orations with a cool streetwear creativity and promote a vibe like Vetements’ many fresh perspective,” he says. collabs and Supreme x Louis “When you work with new Vuitton. partners, you can always What is the best purchase learn something new. That’s you’ve made in the past year? the best part.” One of my Undercover T-shirts. Reflecting on the tremendous growth and success What is the best business advice you’ve ever received? Molo has experienced over When you reach for the stars you the past 16 years, Jepsen may not get one, but you won’t emphasizes that he couldn’t come up with a handful of mud have done it without his either. “amazing” retail partners. “They are just in another league,” he says, reiterating how their talents and ambitions energize Molo season after season. Then there’s the dressing as well as addressing the needs and concerns of children aspect to the whole Molo equation. “It’s the most gratifying feeling for all of us to be a part of the next generation’s development,” Jepsen says. “Now that’s something worth getting up early for!” Where does the name Molo come from? Funny enough, there are actually two versions to this story. The first is that Molo is an abbreviation of the first two letters of Mogens, and the first two letters of the designer’s first name I started with, Louis. That’s the simple version. However, the one we like to tell is that Molo is French slang for ‘relax’ or ‘be cool.’ When we originally looked at trademarks, we were thinking of calling the brand something with ‘cool.’ But lawyers told us to forget about it—it won’t work. So it’s

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sort of serendipitous that we ended up with something that has that original vibe in French slang. I’ll buy that. What has the brand done to live up to its ‘cool’ identity? We’ve built our own DNA since day one. Of course, we’re inspired by what’s happening in pop culture and adult fashion, but we’re not the type of brand to pick and choose aspects of other collections and put them together as our own. We take pride in coming up with innovative prints, colors and shapes each season. I think it also helps that we are solely a children’s brand. Unlike many labels that are takedowns of adult brands—often licensed out or put together in-house as a side project—Molo is focused on delivering to only the kids’ market. Having solely focused on kids, how would you say childrenswear has evolved since Molo first launched? Kids’ clothing went from K being a product to being something that has a story. This is particularly true in the American market. If you could hire anyone, who Everything has a deeper would it be? My wife, and I’m so lucky we already work together. meaning. I think this is wonderful, and something that What are three items you can’t live is much easier to integrate without? Wine, good food and my into kidswear than the adult family, perhaps in the opposite order. market. Ideas, good faith, friendship, humor, respect for Who would be your most one another—that’s all great coveted dinner guest? My stuff that’s easily absorbed by three kids and my wife, and if the the imaginative and wholedinner could take place in Italy it some nature of the children’s would be perfect. market. At Molo, we have a What talent would you most like team of incredibly talented to have? To be able to paint. and experienced designers— they are the ones who bring What is your motto? “Luck our stories to life. follows the prepared ones.” I’m trying to teach my kids they need to make an effort because nothing comes out of nothing.

Where do you recruit most of your designers? Most have high-end experience in the adult market. We always look for top-level talent. That’s something we invest in heavily, and I can proudly say it’s paid off. That said some designers are hesitant to crossover to childrenswear, but usually a conversation about the tremendous creative freedom we offer at Molo is all it takes to change their mind. Most of our designers have been with Molo for a very long time now. Our employee retention is quite high, in general. Is there any secret formula to hitting on trends that resonate worldwide? It’s actually become a little easier. In the past, the difference in preferences from each region was enormous, but now it’s significantly less due to social media. You always have to pay attention to climate and cultural influences, but overall, news is spreading faster and kids like the same things.

The social media age/rage is reinventing every facet of this industry. It’s certainly shaking things up. Globally, there’s been a higher degree of turmoil. A lot of changes have been made to the direct-to-consumer (DTC) buying model, which has certainly altered the attitude of consumers. Online is eating a bit of the cake everyday, if you will, but that doesn’t mean one day people won’t want to go out and shop in stores. We’re social creatures and shopping is a psychological way of behaving— it gets us out of the house, and everyone needs that from time to time. Generally speaking, some markets have been affected more than others. Who’s being affected the most? The European and American markets, since their retail is centered on downtown areas and malls—two areas significantly impacted by online shopping. On the other hand, China hasn’t been impacted as much yet, because the shopping environment there isn’t built around those formats to the same degree. It’s all a matter of adapting to the wants and needs of your specific market. Everyone is figuring it out and trying to see where they fit into the big picture. It’s surely not easy, and not everyone will survive. But that’s always been the nature of any business. How are your American partners holding up in current shakeup? Many are doing a fantastic job. Sure, we all read about the difficult times in the news, but there are many retailers out there who are fighting the online pressures and winning. For example, you used

to see a much narrower selection in stores with brands that were a lot alike. Now successful retailers are expertly curating an assortment that fits the needs of their unique customer. It’s not the same stuff from store to store. And of course, maybe there’s a little extra chocolate somewhere for the kids or coffee for the father that doesn’t want to be there in the first place. That’s all part of delivering superior customer service. In addition to experiential perks like in-store book readings and music classes, retailers still must deliver on the basics. Precisely. Know more about the products you carry—where they’re made, how they’ve been tested, what celebs have worn that label, etc. All these aspects are important. You have to be more prepared to be worth the customer’s time. We all have to get up earlier in the morning. Does this advice play into how you manage Molo’s 11 concept stores? Definitely. Beyond offering an assortment of unique product, it’s all about training, training, training. Every customer deserves the best possible service—no matter what time they come in, no matter how long you’ve been at work. The same idea applies to brands supporting wholesale customers. How do you foster your wholesale relationships while also selling DTC? Brands are going to operate web shops, that’s just a fact of business >37

SPRING 2019: CITIES OF THE WORLD

INDIA

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A N O T E T O M Y YOU N G E R S E L F

Sweet Success JIL GARCIA, FOUNDER OF MALIBU SUGAR, ON HOW GETTING THROUGH THE TOUGHEST OF TIMES LED TO THE GREATEST OF LIFE’S REWARDS. DEAR JIL, You’re 34 years old, and I know you feel completely devastated right now. You didn’t expect to be divorced, with two babies and raising a family all on your own. (Seriously, what the heck?!) But trust me, everything happens for a reason. You may not see it now, but there’s a valuable lesson to be learned here and better days lie ahead. It starts by picking up the pieces, working part-time jobs that allow you to be with the kids while they’re young. All the while, you keep an eye out for something more. It requires patience, and yours is eventually rewarded. You’re at a pop-up sale in your hometown of Santa Monica, CA, with your, now 10-year-old daughter, Triana. She wants a monogrammed tank top that costs $42. You say, “No way, I can make that for you!” It’s your entrepreneurial epiphany. With the help of a friend, you start designing and selling monogrammed tank tops for girls in the neighborhood. Soon, the hobby transitions into a business as the kids love the tanks and word starts to spread. You register for a children’s trade show in New York. Your booth is located in the way, way back corner, but don’t worry (too much). Buyers find their way to you and write orders—lots of them! Meeting that demand is daunting, but it beats the alternative. You get to work and ship on time and in full. You quickly get the hang of it all—designing, marketing, selling, manufacturing and shipping. The monogrammed tank tops extend to screened T-shirts, which evolves into JK Tees, a tween T-shirt company. After seven years of hard work and the challenges of running a successful business, your best friend and business partner decides to move on. It’s scary at first, but don’t panic. Trust your (hard-earned) business instincts and talents. You’re a survivor, if nothing else. Your next career chapter awaits. You’re offered a position at a men’s clothing company looking to develop a women’s division. The company wants assistance in breaking into the specialty boutique tier. It seems like a great fit, although you don’t accept the offer right away. You wait a few months until the offer is sweetened. That’s when you close JK Tees and embark on this exciting new career path. (Spoiler alert: What a disaster!) It’s an unhealthy work environment from the get-go. Thirty days later, you’re outta there! For the record, you’re fired on the (untrue) grounds you’re still working on JK Tees and not devoting your full time to the company. In the immediate aftermath, you sit on your bed and cry. The kids are

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not babies anymore, but they’re still young and you must provide for them. You try and reassure yourself that it’s going to be okay. You recall an idea you had regarding seamless apparel, which is very popular in the junior market but in limited supply for tweens. Your former business partner didn’t think the concept would work. Turns out you’re on to something. You run the idea past your former New York sales rep, Honey Smith, who believes the idea has merit as well. She encourages you to show a line at the upcoming show that January. Yikes, it’s already October! But Honey reassures that you will make it happen. You do. It marks your next career chapter: the launch of Malibu Sugar. Previous JK Tees’ customers are some of the first to try your new line of seamless apparel, leaving you anxiously awaiting reorders. (Some things in this business never change.) Fortunately, the sell-through is fantastic. They are hungry for more! Business picks up, especially when your daughters are off at summer camp, and you really log the hours. That self-sacrifice is rewarded when the camp counselor reports that every girl seems to be wearing Malibu Sugar! It’s not long before the fledgling company leaves your living room nest and the 200-square-foot space your friend graciously lets you use in his warehouse. Still, you proceed with caution. There are no guarantees Malibu Sugar won’t sour. You’ve been in this business long enough to know that. So you do what you’ve always done: work hard, trust your gut and believe in your abilities. The simple success formula pays off. Malibu Sugar eventually opens its own offices and hires the right people along the way. Over the ensuing few years, the company grows into a leading tween brand. (You’re even nominated for an Earnie Award for design excellence in the tween category!) Malibu Sugar’s reputation and growing following is fueled by its supersoft, brightly colored collections. The happy faces of your loyal customers are what keeps you going each day. It’s a labor of love and the business child you’ve raised from idea to inception to success story. And to think it all stemmed from a devastated, single mom who felt helpless and scared. A career borne out of desperation—and a tank top’s sticker shock! You couldn’t be more proud of yourself and your dedicated employees. Most of all, you hope your story inspires other women to take risks and follow their dreams—one step and career chapter at a time.

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footwear preview

FA L L 2 0 1 9

Good for the Sole

Kenneth Cole

Beartraps

Rock On

Bling, grit and a whole lot of ’tude.

KEEP IN STEP WITH THE STYLISH STATEMENTS FOR FALL ’19. Kensie Girl

BCBG Girls

Wild Ones Leopard print hits the spot.

Old Soles Nine West Keds x Kate Spade New York Kenneth Cole

Freshly Picked Sam Edelman

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Glitz Blitz

Joules

All that glitters is bold.

XOXO

BCBG Girls

OshKosh B’Gosh

Michael Kors

Carter’s

Western Chief

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footwear preview

FA L L 2 0 1 9

Stride Rite Geox

Fur Sure Faux trims and linings are cozy and fabulous.

Rugged Bear

Nine West

Bearpaw

Robeez

Hush Puppies

Sperry Emu Australia

Short & Sweet

Laura Ashley

The Chelsea boot is the right mix of dressy and sporty. Joules Pediped

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Polo Ralph Lauren

Old Soles

Crushing Hard

Robeez

Velvet brings out the softer side. Nanette Lepore Girls

Pop Shoes

Sam Edelman

Katy Perry

Hip Hi-Tops Embellishments elevate classic kicks.

Kensie Girl

Freshly Picked Michael Kors

Geox

Carterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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TREND WATCH Andy & Evan outfit Tocoto Vintage one piece

Pattâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;touch booties

1+ In The Family sweater

Petite Hailey

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Soft Gallery top

Connect the Spots PROWLING CATWALKS AND urban jungles worldwide, the fierce and always fabulous leopard print leaps into childrenswear this fall via frisky twists of furry textures, wild accents and striking colors. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Emily Beckman

Andy & Evan outfit

Egg by Susan Lazar skirt

Stefania at Pitti Bimbo

CollĂŠgien socks

Truly Me dress

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photography by franck malthiery

styling by mariah walker

A fusion of sporty silhouettes jazzed by pops of leopard, plaid and camo add star power to streetwear this fall.

Milla wears beanie by Crayola, Retour top and Vigoss corduroy pants. 21

Milla wears O8 Lifestyle jacket, Mademoiselle Ă Soho cardigan, tutu by I Love Plum and We Love Colors tights. Opposite: Harper wears Appaman velvet jacket, Nike T-shirt and stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own barrettes.

From left to right: Jolie wears Joeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jeans half zip, Retour pants and Sons + Daughters sunglasses; Milla wears Hudson Kids leopard print jacket and pants, Splendid top and sunglasses by Teeny Tiny Optics.

Harper wears jacket and dress by MIA and sunglasses by Teeny Tiny Optics. Opposite: Harper wears Airfish overalls, fuzzy top by Appaman leggings, Dezzys shoes and stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own barrettes.

Jolie wears unzipped sweatshirt by Puma, top by Molo and Tru Luv plaid pants. 28

This page, from left to right: Milla wears Joe’s Jeans jacket and hoodie with red pants by Vigoss; Harper wears Desigual zip-up, Airfish top, Nike leggings and stylist’s own barrettes. Jolie wears striped beanie by Levi’s, ruffled top by O8 Molo and Appaman dress. Opposite: Jolie wears striped beanie by Levi’s, ruffled top by O8 Molo and Appaman dress. Photography by Franck Malthiery/Kate Ryan, Inc.; styling by Mariah Walker, Art Department, NY; hair and makeup by Simon Rihana/Art Department using Glossier; digital management by Benoist Lechevallier; styling assistance by May White.

RUNWAY REPORT

Carbon Soldier

Raspberry Plum

Tuc Tuc

Bold for the Cold OUTRAGEOUS, OVERSIZED AND outstanding, statement outerwear took the runway by storm at the recent Pitti Immagine Bimbo in Florence, Italy. The cool coat craze kicked into high (fashion) gear when Demna Gvasalia presented a layering bonanza in his ’90s snowboarderinspired collection for Balenciaga last fall. Marc Jacobs picked up on the bigger-isbetter outerwear trend with shoulderpadded coats while Calvin Klein’s rolled out workwear-chic looks. Kanye West also joined the party, featuring (really) oversized jackets in his “I Love It” music video. European childrenswear designers are similarly raising the volume on cold-weather cool for Fall ’19 with bright metallic puffers, long embroidered peacoats and textured faux fur jackets. —Emily Beckman

Piccola Ludo

Stefania

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Abel & Lula

Velveteen Pero

Unlabel Kids

Amaya

Infantium Victoria

Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Orsobruno

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H AU T E TOPICS

DESIGNER CHAT M AG DA R A M S KIDS ON THE MOON

MAGDA RAMS HAS long been involved in the fashion world, starting out as a stylist for magazines and working in film production. But it wasn’t until she had her first child that Rams was inspired to Magda Rams go back to her true love: design. “When I became a mother, I decided to get back to what I really enjoyed in college—designing,” Rams says. After years of living abroad with her husband, she returned to her native Warsaw, Poland, with fresh ideas

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and founded Kids on the Moon (KOTM) in 2013. Fusing comfort with modernity in eco-friendly styles, KOTM aims to educate children on how to express themselves through wholesome fashion. “Every collection has a story behind it to tell kids something about the world,” Rams says. “I want to encourage them to be independent, happy, free and, most of all, dream big.” Rams’ empowering message has resonated with consumers worldwide. KOTM is available in Japan, South Korea, Spain, Germany and the United States. For Fall ’19, KOTM will hone in on the connection between people and nature, with animal prints and a palette of natural colors like green, beige, ginger and sky blue. “I want to make kids aware of their impact on the world,” Rams says. The material story further reflects the earth-friendly theme

with soft cottons and comfortable linens. “We need to educate youth about how clothes are made,” she says, citing production houses that are implementing recycling solutions as an encouraging example. “It’s a step toward a better tomorrow that KOTM will support and promote wholeheartedly,” Rams says. —Aleda Johnson How’s business? Great! We’ve been exploring for unique inspiration and putting more attention into advertising. We found some great new suppliers from Europe, and we plan to expand further into the U.S. market this year. Who’s the KOTM customer? People who care. A parent who values sustainable fashion, the aesthetical side of life and, of course, the

EDITOR’S PICKS Moccis hand-sewn slipper socks

Pandamonium What’s black, white and rad all over?

Minymo pullover

Squishable plush

environment. This customer also has a deep appreciation for design, art and the overall work of others. How are you getting the word out about KOTM? We’ve created an online community of mothers, clients, fashion lovers, photographers and bloggers who we stay connected to through updates about the brand on social media. One of our best communication tools is Instagram. That platform allows us to thoroughly showcase the world of KOTM: the important moments, inspirations, sneak peeks and styling ideas. We get lots of friendly feedback and have quickly been able to reach new customers worldwide. What do you love most about being a designer? The possibility to influence others by giving them something I value. That’s why

there’s a story behind every collection. Does your personal style influence your designs? Yes, they ’re very closely related. Personally and professionally, I always keep it simple with good taste. I love experimenting with interesting colors or surprising details but never anything too loud. I also adore black, so I’m happy to have a lot of little clients who like that color, too.

Bobux x The Bonnie Mob crib shoes

Mimi & Lula purse

What’s your favorite KOTM style? Our new eco-friendly sweatshirt for this fall. I would wear it! What do you see in KOTM’s future? Well, I’ve always wanted to collaborate with NASA or have our first flagship store on the moon. (Laughs.) We’re just starting out, so expect much more growth and designs to come.

Stefania at Pitti Bimbo

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BEHIND THE SEAMS

Little Kid, Big Message Love Bubby empowers children with outspoken designs.

Contemporary Classic Baby Noomie fuses modern designs with traditional Pima cotton. DELICATE DESIGNS IN soft shades of pink and blue typically come to mind with Pima cotton layette. However, in 2015, mompreneurs Alissa Wapinski and Andrea Schneider challenged the norm with a modern update to the Peruvian-sourced material many parents adore with the launch of Baby Noomie. Available in sizes newborn to 8 years, the collection of vibrant colors, witty phrases and freehand graphics has added a fresh spin to the super-soft fabric. “Our goal is to make the classic fabric speak to modern moms,” says Wapinski, citing the company’s Moon and Back print as what really put Baby Noomie on the map in 2016. “All of our prints are hand-drawn and digitized, which makes each season’s contemporary concepts especially unique to the market.” Unicorns, pandas, llamas and bulldogs are just a few of the quirky characters on Baby Noomie apparel and coordinating accessories sold by retailers worldwide. For Fall ’19, sweet treats take the spotlight including donuts, cookies and lollipops. “Andrea, our designer, must have been hungry when creating this one,” Wapinski laughs.

“And looking at buyers’ response, I think she concocted just the right recipe!” Wapinski says the Aventura, FL-based brand owes much of its success to fostering trusted relationships with its partners. “You can’t just sit and wait for people to call you,” she says. “It’s up to you as a brand to take the initiative to phone, email, exhibit, advertise—whatever it takes!” Wapinski also cites mommy influencers like Arielle Charnas, Tori Spelling, Hilaria Baldwin and Stephanie Gottlieb, as significant to building brand awareness. “Moms recommending other moms our product is incredibly powerful,” she says. Responding to feedback, Baby Noomie plans to roll out more gift bundle options this year. “Anything we can do to support their sales, we’ll make it happen,” Wapinski says, noting that retailers receive new products at least a month and a half before anything is sold on its direct-to-consumer channel. “In today’s world, hard work can take you places,” Wapinski says. “I want my kids to see how we’ve built a brand from scratch and give them hope in following their own dreams.” —Emily Beckman

JAIME WINDAU KNOWS what it takes to connect with customers. After spending the first half of her career in retail merchandising for Express and Banana Republic, Windau founded Love Bubby from the belief that “you’re never too young to make a statement.” What started in 2016 as a direct-toconsumer brand of monochromatic graphic tees with catchy political and pop culture references has made its way into retailers nationwide. Last year, Love Bubby even secured a spot on Oprah’s Favorite Things list. “People want their beliefs heard,” Windau says, particularly on social media. “A child wearing a witty T-shirt today has more power to spread positivity or make change than ever before.” Made in the U.S. from 100-percent Airlume combed and ring-spun cotton, Love Bubby’s simplistic collection of baby one-pieces (SRP: $26) and graphic tees (SRP: $28) have business booming with bestsellers like Little Feminist, Speaker of the House and Always Fierce. “When the Speaker of the House design launched at NY Now, we had to put in more orders after selling out in two days,” Windau says. “Thankfully, our simple design strategy gives us great speed to market, plus our items will never have to be put on the sale rack.” Despite numerous inquiries about adding colors to the collection, Windau is hesitant. “Black, white and gray are what we’re known for,” she says. “Easy to remember—and wear!” This year, Windau is focusing on growing Love Bubby’s image. “We’re working on brand awareness with retailers and consumers,” she says, noting that she often uses hashtags like #TeachThemYoung for getting the word out on social media. Windau also sets an example with her marketing campaigns, always casting a diverse range of models. “My son is six and doesn’t fully understand politics, but we are having more conversations about empathy and equal rights,” Windau says, believing this type of messaging has staying power in childrenswear. “We can hope it’ll bring a more united world in 15 to 20 years for our kids—the next generation.” —Aleda Johnson

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2/8/19 12:09 PM

Q&A continued from page 11 today. Brands have to be on social platforms and stay in touch with the market by running their own e-commerce sites. And all this can be done intelligently in a way that doesn’t compete with those who support you. For example, we never launch anything on our site before sending it to our retailers. We also have a ‘where to buy’ link that we keep updated with our partners. I seldom have a negative response to any of our online activities. At the end of the day, our retail partners are also our friends, so treat them right! How was business this past year? Excellent. Just before you called, I was looking at our selling performance and how much it’s grown just between Fall ’18 and this coming fall. I think that has a lot to do with how selective we are in choosing our partners. We don’t want to have distribution on every corner. We work with only the most dedicated retailers, and those customers are not always easy to find. From mom-and-pop shops with great taste and a well-curated selection to bigger operations with the same passion and standard of quality, we hunt for the best of the best to represent Molo.

BE THE BUYER

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

A Mother’s Touch Rebecca Weisz, owner of Ladida and mom of six, on why passion, panache and patience are the keys to success.

I’m so fortunate to do what I love for a living. Some people open a business purely to make money, but that mentality won’t give you long-term success in our industry. Unlike electronics, childrenswear can’t be sold effectively without a personal touch. It all boils HOME RUNS down to understanding and appreciating kids. My six children are very influential in how I Playwear run my business. Molo PASS I O N P L AY

What you buy, how you merchandise, when it’s sold, your decor—every factor that goes into running your store affects how the customer thinks—and buys. And while your vendors are in control of providing great product, you’re just as responsible for conveying their message through superior presentation and customer service. EVERYTHING COUNTS

What are some key goals for this year? As a company, I look forward to refreshing ourselves with new adventures in product categories. We also want to come up with new product faster and be able to express newness to our retailers and meet unexpected demands or needs. If a retailer, for example, needs a cardigan made for her summer shipment because it’s particularly rainy or cold, we’ll aim to make it happen. Personally, I hope to spend more time with my wonderful family. It’s easy to get caught up in running a business, and it’s particularly eye-opening when someone asks you—like you did—what are you currently reading and my answer was the emails on my computer! There’s just never enough hours in front of us, but I’m going to do my best to make more time. There’s always a way. Got any good book recommendations? Where do you see Molo in five years? We ’ll continue to build our brand globally. That means a lot of constructive dialogue with our retailers to really understand the needs of consumers. We’ll be scouting more unique outlets to pick up worldwide and, of course, continue to design collections that reflect our unique attitude. We no longer focus on selling in, but rather it’s all about selling through. We want to be a core brand to our partners, one they can count on for an even better collection than the last one. I also look forward to years of more emails from parents telling us how their child refuses to take off their new Molo T-shirt, so it has to be washed at night while they're asleep! (By the way, those are the type of emails I never tire of reading!) That wonderful feedback helps justify the number-crunching, travel and long hours spent in the office. It’s our reward, as well as verification that we’ve

TURN HEADS Some of the items I buy are simply

meant to make my customer say, ‘Oh my God’ when they walk in. It’s like buying a good piece of furniture for the store. Products that are a little ‘out there’ may not sell at full price, but they leverage the rest of my inventory.

Outerwear Finger in the Nose Dresswear Bonpoint Shower Gifts Quincy Mae Accessories Bonpoint Newcomer Quincy Mae

I’m one of the fastest buyers around. (Laughs.) It’s all about that first instinct as a mom. Sometimes I’ll be nearly finished with an order and start thinking, ‘Maybe this would be better…’ but then I stop myself. Anything can grow on you, but those initial judgments are what usually work best. GUT INSTINCTS

You don’t build a customer base overnight. I started from scratch 10 years ago. I was a therapist and switched into childrenswear retailing after having kids. I opened a store in Lakewood, NJ, and it’s taken a lot of hard work to get to the level of recognition we have today. My community helped spread the word, in addition to developing a social media presence and an e-commerce site. I promise if you have a passion for serving families, the tough days pass and it’s all worth it in the end. KEEP AT IT

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