Earnshaw's | January 2016 by Wainscot Media

S H OW A N D T E L L : L E E R O S E N B A U M O N T H E F U T U R E O F C H I L D R E N ’ S C L U B A N D P L AYG R O U N D

VOLUME 100 NUMBER 1

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OUTERWEAR’S BIG CHILL

JANUARY 201 6 $10.00

FAB FALL

COATS

2015 EARNIE AWARDS Best Gift Winner Atlanta International Gift Market AmericasMart Atlanta Building 3, 3rd floor Space 401 NY NOW Javits Center, NYC Space 7104

Blissâ&#x201E;˘ Round Blanket shipping SPRING 2016 Our generous 60-inch BlissTM Round Blanket for baby is plush for playtime yet light enough to tote from home to the outdoors. Crawl, nap, roll, picnic and play.

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J A N UA R Y 2 0 16 Noelle Heffernan Publisher

FEATURES 14 Inside Outerwear Don’t let warm weather put a freeze on the category. Stay cool with these tips from the pros.

20 Show Business Children’s Club Show Director Lee Rosenbaum reveals big plans for Playground—and why he believes trade shows are here to stay.

FASHION 24 Pandamonium Chinatown provides a perfect XWYaZhef \eh \WbbÊi [Yb[Yj_Y WdZ colorful array of outerwear. 4 Editor’s Note 6 JWba_d] Fe_dji 8 Hot Properties 10 Fresh Finds 16 On Trend 36 Behind the Seams 44 I^ef JWba Rugged Bear jacket, Appaman shirt, Molo jeans, Clarks boots. On cover: Agatha Cub coat and scarf, Appaman pants. Photography by Zoe Berkovic. Styling by Jessica Zindren. Hair and makeup by Alfred Lester/Utopia.

Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Ann Loynd Senior Editor Laurie Cone Associate Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager FHE:K9J?ED Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices ), 9eef[h IgkWh[" 4th floor D[m Oeha" DO '&&&) J[b0 ,*, (-.#'++& <Wn0 ,*, (-.#'++) advertising@9threads.com [Z_jeh_Wbh[gk[iji6 9threads.com Circulation Office Debbie Grim (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ J[b0 **& .-'#')&& circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ J[b0 **& .-'#')&& Xen Zapis" 9^W_hcWd Lee Zapis" Fh[i_Z[dj Rich Bongorno" 9<E Debbie Grim" 9edjhebb[h

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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The best American & international children’s brands

FORGET ABOUT JANUARY AND MARCH,

IT’S ALL ABOUT FEBRUARY!

February 14 - 16, 2016 Metropolitan Pavilion 125 W 18th St, New York

170 collections

illustration Anne Laval

Clothing Accessories Shoes Gift Toys Home

PARIS January 24 - 26, 2016 www.playtimeparis.com

NEW YORK February 14 - 16, 2016 www.playtimenewyork.com

TOKYO February 23 - 25, 2016 www.playtimetokyo.com

CHILDREN’S & MATERNITY TRADE SHOWS WORLDWIDE! FOR PROFESSIONALS ONLY

editor’s note OVER THE HOLIDAYS, I braved the Black Friday crowds for the first time in several years and went shopping at the Mall of Georgia, near my hometown. I quickly regretted the decision. As it turns out, I’d rather push my stroller through the heart of Times Square. While I waited not-so-patiently for a family member to make a purchase, I spotted a line of eager young women chatting excitedly. Oooh, I thought: “Maybe there’s a celebrity appearance! Or, a giveaway!” Nope. As it turns out, those women were simply waiting to enter Pink, Victoria’s Secret’s casual spin-off for co-eds. So I wasn’t surprised to learn that L Brands, the parent company of Victoria’s Secret, Pink and Bath & Body Works, posted record earnings for its third quarter and expects the same for its fourth. (Given that line at the Mall of Georgia, it’s probably safe to say mission accomplished.) What’s more, the company’s chairman and CEO Leslie H. Wexner told investors that the success of the company depends on brick-andmortar, not e-commerce. It’s a statement that’s completely at odds with last year’s biggest Black Friday takeaway—that online e-commerce has at last conquered brick-and-mortar. (Online surpassed in-store sales for the first time.) What makes Pink an exception? I interrogated our new Associate Editor Emily Beckman, who worked as a campus representative for the brand. As it turns out, the retailer has perfected the art of utilizing social media and old-fashioned word-of-mouth to drive shoppers to its stores. Pink tasks its campus reps—at 99 colleges across America—with hiring street teams, updating campus-specific Facebook pages, hosting events, launching giveaways and distributing promotional materials. The most successful reps are treated to a trip to the company’s headquarters and a day of pampering. It’s a perfect strategy for children’s retailers, too. Local moms often find each other through Facebook groups. Why not enact a rep to host events, tag your store on social media and help expand your reach? Of course, many of today’s savvy children’s retailers are already utilizing Pink’s methods on a smaller scale. In “Shop Talk” on p. 40, Zhenya Kuhne reveals how she uses Instagram to encourage customers to stop by Sugar Snap Pea, her children’s shop in Charleston, S.C. She doesn’t see the Internet as a challenge to her brick-and-mortar business, but as a way to enhance the overall experience. At the heart of that experience is the shop’s sophisticated design and friendly customer service. “They’re gravitating to the store to actually feel and touch an item, and to be educated about our product,” she explains. Same goes for Pink. Even the most outgoing campus reps and stellar social media efforts wouldn’t be able to boost brick-andmortar sales if Pink’s demographic didn’t love stopping by in person. But as both Beckman and Wexner point out, they do. So if the gloomy news from Black Friday has you feeling blue, may I suggest you think Pink?

Tickled Pink In an online era, Victoria’s Secret’s sister store is racking up record brick-andmortar sales. So, what’s the secret?

AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

audrey.kingo@9threads.com

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Talking

Points

Special Delivery?

As some manufacturers add more product drops to the calendar, industry insiders speculate as to whether less is actually more.

IGGER IS BETTER, right? Not so, say some children’s manufacturers and retailers—at least when it comes to the industry’s shift towards more annual deliveries. At first glance, the strategy makes sense: Shoppers love seeing new merchandise, and more shipments equals more opportunities to showcase fresh goods. However, experts caution retailers to consider whether the benefits of adding inventory outweigh the negatives. Ç7i Wd [n#Xko[h \eh W l[ho bWh][ Z[fWhjc[dj ijeh[ _d j^[ K$A$" ? \ekdZ multiple drops and deliveries really tough to deal with,” says Rockin’ 8WXo L_Y[ Fh[i_Z[dj WdZ 9e#<ekdZ[h CWha @[od[i$ “Having a brand come to you every few months with a new collection sounds like heaven, but in truth a good buyer who is organized wants to know upfront when and where they are spending their money.” ?jÊi dej `kij j^[ ^Wiib[ e\ kdfWYa_d] d[m fheZkYji every few weeks that makes multiple shipments tricky to manage. Too many deliveries can also impact cash flow and create inventory problems. “Older goods remain on the floor longer, the margin on those goods gets worse, resulting in bigger markdowns, which in turn affects the wholesalers who have to ikffehj j^[i[ cWhaZemdi"È dej[i ?iWWY CWb[^" executive vice president of sales and merchandising for Andy & Evan. For the Andy & Evan brand, deliveries follow a traditional schedule: three to \ekh j_c[i W o[Wh \eh ifh_d] @WdkWho" <[XhkWho WdZ March) and another three to four times a year for fall @kd[ eh @kbo" j^[d 7k]kij WdZ I[fj[cX[h $ Ç>eb_ZWo used to be a big delivery, but over time, it became very niche,” Maleh notes. “Not every retailer takes in a holiday delivery, especially if they are still sitting on unsold fall goods, which seems to be the case over the past several years.” Resort wear, he notes, acts more like a “transitional delivery” that ships at the end of October/early November. Plus, Maleh adds, consumers have more options than ever for finding new products; they don’t necessarily need to return to a brick-and-mortar store every month. “Because of the increase of different channels for the consumer to buy product online, people have so many options to shop for new product,” he points out. He’s actually observed a reduction in deliveries, enabling retailers to focus more on promoting and selling their existing merchandise.

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?dij[WZ e\ \ehY_d] h[jW_b[hi je WYY[fj W if[Y_\_Y Yebb[Yj_ed ed W if[cific date, he explains, some manufacturers are opting for flexibility. “We’ve found that by giving different options to all our customers, we are able to offer fresh product every month or so, without having to create standalone deliveries that retailers are forced to buy into,” he adds. Same goes for Rockin’ Baby, which offers its entire collection at the beginning of a season with the option to split orders into three different drops. “We actually will ship when best suits stores’ needs WdZ ^Wl[ gk_j[ W XheWZ m_dZem je ik_j j^[c"È @[od[i WZZi$ 9WdWZ_Wd# based children’s brand Coccoli also provides a broad, six-week shipping window for its five collections each season. “This allows stores to receive merchandise early in the season (without being flooded all at once),” says Francois Vachon, vice president for Coccoli’s parent YecfWdo" HeXe A_Zim[Wh$ ÇJ^[d" Wi j^[ i[Wied ]e[i forward, other themes arrive, making for regular newness in the store.” Rather than introducing more deliveries, Helene Berke of Helene’s Closet Children’s Wear in Dallas iWoi cWdk\WYjkh[hi Wh[ \eYki_d] ed h[#ehZ[hi$ Ç? i[[ a trend of e-mails coming from the manufacturers to the retailers, offering them new prices if they reehZ[h"È i^[ iWoi$ Ç? i[[ icWbb[h ehZ[hi X[_d] fbWY[Z Xo h[jW_b[hi QWi YecfWh[Z jeS \_l[ o[Whi W]e$ ? j^_da these re-order e-mails are a way to get the store owners to buy more frequently.” Andy & Evan, for example, allows retailers to buy in-season ]eeZi Wj Z_iYekdj$ Ç?\ iec[j^_d] ^Wi X[[d Ze_d] really well [in their store], they can support that part of their business without having to bring in a whole new delivery,” Maleh adds. Of course, determining if more deliveries would be a boon or a bust depends largely on a store’s clientele and their desire to see fresh displays. As always, retailers must determine what works best for their business. Thankfully, Vachon notes, the current cWha[j Yb_cWj[ e\\[hi fb[djo e\ efj_edi$ Ç?\ cash flow is an issue, then [retailers] are _d Wd EA fei_j_ed X[YWki[ j^[h[ _i W ^_]^ level of stock on the market,” he explains. Ç?\ Wdej^[h ijeh[ j^h_l[i ed Yedj_dkWb d[mness, then they are happy, too, because it’s never been so easy to have merchandise ship worldwide.” —Pamela Brill

HOT PROPERTIES

Monkey Business

Tall Order

Ready the cake for one mischievous little monkey. In 2016, beloved children’s book character Curious George turns 75, and to celebrate, Universal has announced additional television seasons plus holiday specials, leading up to an anticipated Curious George film slated for 2017–2018. The company is also partnering with SG Companies to create a toddler Velcro athletic sneaker that will be available in Kmart as well as other mass-market and mid-tier retailers. The shoe, which wholesales for $8.50, displays the character’s shenanigans. Additional styles are in the works for Fall ’16 along with a line of slippers and sleepwear for girls and boys sizes 2 to 14, wholesaling for $6 to $7. “Curious George is one of those timeless characters,” explains Sophia Artiles, director of licensing and marketing at SG Companies. “With Universal, Curious George has grown from his classic publishing origins to a multi-media character.” For more information, contact brianc@thesgcompanies.com. —Ann Loynd

Bestselling teething toy Sophie la girafe is already a registry must-have for many new moms, and now the beloved character will make its debut on a line of infant clothing, thanks to an exclusive two-year licensing deal with infant apparel brand Kissy Kissy. Starting with Spring ’16, the collection will include more than 100 pieces, including footies, bodysuits, converter gowns, pajamas and accessories, all made using Kissy Kissy’s signature Peruvian Pima cotton. Wholesale prices range from $4.50 to $28. “When we were looking into licensing layette in the U.S.A., we noticed that Kissy Kissy was also sold in most shops where you’ll find Sophie la girafe,” says Maude Sophie Guerret, licensing coordinator for Sophie’s parent company, Deliso S.A.S. “We feel the combination provides stores with the opportunity to create nice themed corners, featuring two of their must-have brands.” For more information, visit kissykissyonline.com. –A.L.

Curious George celebrates a big birthday with a movie and a sneaker.

Sophie la girafe marches into layette, with help from Kissy Kissy.

Thanks to all our partners for voting us Best Outerwear!

RESH FINDS

Block Party

Founders of boho-sporty brand Akshu & Ing, Akshata Rao and Ingrid Liang met as roommates in New York City. Rao worked as a marketing consultant and Liang was pursuing a career in fashion merchandising, but all of that changed when the two couldn’t find thoughtful baby gifts for their friends and families. Featuring embroidery and block prints designed by New York City artists and then handcarved and hand-printed in India, Akshu & Ing offers dresses, bloomers, tops, shorts, jumpsuits, bibs and swaddles for boys and girls, ages newborn to 5 years. Wholesale prices range from $9 to $24 for the collection, made from cotton and silk fabrics in a range of vibrant hues, from bright blue to deep yellow. Visit akshuanding.com for more.

Fall’s latest labels balance form and function.

Double the Fun

Did you know that the U.S. alone boasts 90,000 twin births each year? As a mother of twins herself, Dawn Motolese decided to launch a line catering specifically to twins and the special bond they share. Spotted at ENK Children’s Club in October, My Twins are Cuter offers sets of tees for newborns to kids ages 14 years. Coordinating individual tees are also available for twins’ siblings, parents and grandparents. Graphic prints range from cupcakes to monsters to butterflies and, fittingly, each design features the number two. For 2016, Motolese is excited to introduce a new crab print and offer festive holiday designs for Halloween and Christmas. Available for girls and boys alike, the line wholesales for $10 to $13. Visit mytwinsarecuter.com to learn more.

Made in the Shade

When Leila Lee asked her optometrist the best way to prevent damage to her kids’ vision, the answer was simple: Protect their eyes from the sun. But finding sunglasses that combined UV-protection and kid-friendly style (at a reasonable price) proved challenging. Enter Winkniks. Lee debuted the brand with fellow mom and co-founder Jessica Yeh at the March edition of ENK Children’s Club, offering a range of stylish spectacles that feature 100-percent UVA- and UVB-protection, scratch-resistant polarized lenses and hypoallergenic frames. Plus, the lenses come in an array of bold colors like electric blue, fuchsia pink and cool silver. Available for boys and girls ages 5 to 11, the glasses wholesale for $20 a pair. Check out winkniks.com for the full collection.

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Little Luxuries

For a collection as sweet as it sounds, consider Toffee Moon. The British children’s brand made its U.S. debut at October’s ENK Children’s Club, offering soft cotton jersey and knit playsuits, rompers, dresses, tops, trousers, shorts, cardigans, hats, blankets and scarves for boys and girls, ages newborn to 2 years. The fall lineup is still in the works, but the brand’s Spring ’16 collection is inspired by quintessential British summers, describes Company Founder Elaine Smyth. Dainty florals, stripes and soft pinks, lavenders and blues will abound for girls’ while boys will look sharp in nautical stripes and star prints. Wholesale prices range from $8.50 for a hat to $25 for a cozy blanket. Check out toffeemoon.co.uk to learn more.

children’s world

Find Style in 2016 PHOTO: Petit Bateau

Elegant Baby

Peppercorn K ids

Visit Children’s World, where you’ll discover all the latest trends and designs in one convenient destination.

Chooze

Upcoming Markets The Atlanta International Gift & Home Furnishings Market® January 12–19, 2016 February Children’s World at Atlanta Apparel February 4–8, 2016 April Children’s World at Atlanta Apparel April 7–11, 2016 June Children’s World at Atlanta Apparel June 2–5, 2016 Select Showrooms Open Year Round Visit AmericaMart.com for a full list of Market dates.

AmericasMart.com/ChildrensWorld

800.ATL.MART

RESH FINDS

Safety First Fly Style

As a former interior designer in Paris, Sylvie Belanger, founder and designer of Petit Moineau (or “little sparrow” in French) can spot good style—and quality. So when she launched her line of baby onepieces in September 2015, she turned to pima cotton and famed Liberty print fabrics. And she had a mentor in her mom: “I have a love of baby fashion after countless hours of watching my mother making us clothes,” she says. The premise of Petit Moineau is to provide a one-piece for little ones every month, up to 18 months. Each piece features a patterned collar and a number declaring baby’s age, so boys and girls can proudly display how old they are. The line wholesales for $25 to $70. Visit petitmoineau.com.

Pet Project

Heather Ponce founded Carley Barley this past May for two seemingly unrelated reasons: First, she wanted to supply eco-friendly baby clothing, but she also wanted to provide support for animal shelters. Her 100-percent organic cotton offerings include rompers, one-pieces, shirts, pants, hats and muslin swaddles in bright St. John island-inspired greens and blues, and $1 from every sale goes towards helping a pet find a permanent home. Fittingly, Ponce named her company after her late adopted dog, Carley. Available for boys and girls ages newborn to 1 year, the collection debuted at ENK Children’s Club in October and wholesales for $7.50 to $17. See carleybarley.com to learn more. 1 2 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C @ 7 D K 7 H O ( & ' ,

Peta Stinson first began thinking about childrenswear during an especially difficult time, when her newborn son contracted meningitis. Because his lungs and skin were so fragile, Stinson was on the lookout for organic options with non-toxic dyes. After spotting a gap in the market, she founded Sapling in her native Australia four years ago. Made using 100-percent organic fabrics and dyes, the collection includes rompers, zippered suits and the brand’s signature heart pants, featuring an oversized heart print on baby’s bottom, for boys and girls from newborn to 5 years. The brand has also partnered with model Jaime King for a Japanese-inspired line with painterly wave and lotus prints. Now available stateside, wholesale prices for the collection range from $4.98 to $19.98. To learn more, visit saplingchild.com.

Soak Up the Sun

If your customers like to beat the winter blues with an exotic getaway, Bowie x James is at the ready, with stylish resortwear for girls ages 2 to 12. Rooted in California surf culture, the line offers mix-and-match bikinis, one-pieces and cover-ups. Many bikini bottoms are reversible and adjustable, for use beyond a single season, and all styles come in an array of vibrant colors such as purple, teal, pink and a bestselling leopard print. But it isn’t all about fun in the sun for the company: The brand donates a portion of its proceeds from its pink Warrior bikini to the Kylie Rowand Foundation, which raises funds for childhood cancer treatments. The complete collection wholesales for $24 to $49. Visit bowiejames.com for more.

You buy. We give. For every Rockin’ Baby clothing item you purchase, we will donate a new item of clothing from our hero range to a child in need. The more you buy – the more we can give. Child to Child.

Visit us at ENK NYC Booth 1052 We are the only company in the world doing one for one on kidswear and in our first year have won three prestigious awards:

USA REPS:

CANADA REPS:

SOUTHEAST: heather@teacuptots.com | 770.670.1418 NY/MID ATLANTIC/ NEW ENGLAND: kjbarsh@optimum.net | 203.274.7340 MIDWEST: chicagogallery@yahoo.com | 312.751.6800

SOUTHWEST: run2well@aol.com | 214.747.8608 CARIBBEAN/LATIN AMERICA: oqassoc@gmail.com | 305.594.7118 WEST COAST/ NORTH WEST: jody@smallshopshowroom.com | 213.488.0090

ONTARIO: judiogilvie@bellnet.ca | 416.350.9690 WESTERN PROVINCES: greg@gingerbaby.ca | 604.441.7728 QUEBEC / MARITIME PROVINCES: jr3888@sympatico.ca | 514.341.4888

For det a ils of our distributors in the following countries ple a se cont a ct us: J a p a n, Hong Kong, Chin a , South Korea, Taiw a n, Sing a pore, Australia, New Zealand www.RockinBaby.com

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SHOP

class

Inside Outerwear As a dip in sales—and a rise in mercury—pose a flurry of challenges for winter wear, experts reveal how to weather the hot-and-cold category. BY PAMELA BRILL

Appaman

WHEN IT COMES to outerwear, specialty retailers may be feeling a bit snowed under. Thanks to an avalanche of market forces, from warmer-than-usual weather to can’t-be-beat prices at big box shops, consumers are giving boutiques the cold shoulder. According to the NPD Group’s Consumer Tracking Service, retail sales of outwear for infants, toddlers, girls and boys have dropped in the last year, down 6 percent to $1.7 billion as of October 2015 (from the same period last year). Fall’s balmy climate isn’t the only reason for the decline in sales, says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst for fashion at NPD. “Consumers are no longer buying ahead of need,” he explains. “They don’t buy the way the retail calendar works. They are much more reactive shoppers and now have the mentality, ‘When I need it, I’ll buy it.’” Childrenswear management consultant Christine McCarthy seconds the motion. “Parents don’t look for [outerwear] until it is cold and snowing out, and they realize that last year’s item doesn’t fit,” she agrees. The problem for specialty stores? By the time January’s blizzards hit, coats and jackets have been drastically marked down—especially at department stores and national chains. “Unfortunately, outerwear is always on sale with larger retailers, and that is what boutiques compete with,” McCarthy adds, pointing to vendors like The North Face and L.L. Bean as suppliers that drive outerwear business away from boutiques. But the forecast isn’t entirely bleak for the outerwear category. As always, retailers who offer shoppers what they want will stay afloat. Below, experts reveal how. VALUE FIRST While it may be tempting to try and match the low prices at nearby big box shops, retail pros advise against the strategy. Why? “Price is less of an issue, since boutique shoppers aren’t generally looking for bargains; they are looking for something special,” explains Lorri Devlin, owner of CapeKids in Mashpee, MA. As Devlin notes, the emotional quotient can never be left out of a childrenswear purchase. “The overarching driving factor is the customer’s desire to express their love and affection for their little ones.” While that may mean different things to

different parents, a few factors are almost always key. At Miller’s in Mamaroneck, NY, comfort reigns supreme. “If the child is not comfortable or a coat is too big, they will not wear it,” explains owner Brooke Andrews. Second on the list is quality. “A family at Miller’s will not spend money on something that will not hold up or perform for at least one season,” she says. Brand-conscious consumers are also seeking big names in outerwear, such as Appaman, Widgeon, The North Face and Andy & Evan. At Little Threads boutique in Chicago, customers love Appaman for its “warmth, fabulous colors and ease of wear. If we don’t have them in stock, we hear from [our customers],” says Owner Joanne Krakora. At Miller’s, this season’s bestselling coat is the Hi Loft Down from Patagonia, which Andrews describes as “one of the warmest, best-made down coats for kids.” And as in all apparel purchases, on-trend styling is crucial. Puffer coats and animalshaped hats are still an across-the-board bestseller, but “hooded garments aren’t as popular lately,” notes Devlin. At Miller’s, ski wear outfitted in neon colors is big for both boys and girls. Lastly, Krakora recommends keeping the age of the child in mind when it comes to outerwear purchases. “Parents of babies are concerned about fitting the child in the child seat, while still keeping them warm,” she says. “Those with 2- to 6-year-olds want the coat to be cute, but still functional. And the parents of kids ages 6-plus want quality for the price.” TIMING IS EVERYTHING To keep outerwear moving briskly off the sales floor, retailers must be sure to schedule their orders and shipments accordingly. According to McCarthy, outerwear typically delivers in late August and remains on the floor until February, “with sales happening constantly.” Weather, of course, is a major factor as to when customers begin to buy coats and scarves. “A cold snap in September or October will encourage sales,” says Lynn Husum, co-founder of Appaman. Similarly, she adds, “A prior cold winter will present early sales in August.” Winter coats can be showcased even sooner—as early as the >38

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www.coolkidsfashion.com Scan QR code to register

OnTrend Appaman dress

Winkniks sunglasses

Kate Mack puffer coat

Laer Kids

1 6 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C Â&#x161; @ 7 D K 7 H O ( & ' ,

Old Soles high-top

Minymo dress

R U N WAY P H OTO G R A P H Y F R O M P E T I T E PA R A D E .

Smoke and Mirrors Maybe it’s the giddy response to the latest Star Wars installment, or maybe it’s the dystopian sci-fi theme that’s taken over tween books and movies: Whatever the inspiration, children’s designers went back to the future for Fall ’16. Think gunmetal gray leather jackets, smoky silver boots and charcoal-dusted dresses. Add in moody hues and high-shine details, and little ones will be ready to traverse the rugged, urban landscape and face any foe—from zombies to Sith Lords—in killer style. —Audrey Goodson Kingo

Molo skirt

Someday Soon

Pediped Mary Jane

OnTrend Akid high-top

Kate Mack

Wee Ones hair bow

Hudson jeans

Wild Side

Want to catch a glimpse of the big cats in their natural habitat? No need to go on safari; just travel to a nearby children’s market this month. (What better environment for the unpredictable creatures than the oft-wild aisles of a trade show?) Unlike the mysterious cats, look for leopard and cheetah spots to pop up on everything from coats to high-tops in Fall ’16. No surprise: Last fall, European kids’ collections resembled a veritable zoo, with everything from graphic-print cheetah heads at Philipp Plein Junior to panther and pythons at Mini Rodini. Animal print may be a perennial favorite in both women’s and kids’, but its staying power proves the pattern is perfect for tykes with ferocious style. —A.G.K.

Huggalugs legwarmer

Bon BĂŠbĂŠ one-piece

Native slip-on

Mini Rodini dress

Jessica Simpson

Lili Collection smoking shoe

Q& A

As the new show director for Children’s Club, Lee Rosenbaum’s experience launching everything from magazine titles to trade shows is poised to pay off on another big project: turning Playground into a West Coast destination for buyers and brands alike.

Show Business

BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

WALK ANY TRADE show in the children’s market, and you’re bound to encounter endless speculation about everything from the state of the industry to what’s on the lunch menu. That’s especially true if you’re Lee Rosenbaum. Director of Children’s Club, the seasoned salesman took on the role last year after the retirement of the show’s longtime director, Stanley Kaye. Big shoes to fill, yes, but Rosenbaum— the former associate publisher at GQ—is no stranger to the fashion arena, or to the challenging world of sales. In fact, just like Kaye, he worked in magazine ad sales for many years before transitioning to trade shows. (He got into the magazine business as a teenager, working summers as a self-professed “mail room thug” for Rolling Stone, where his uncle served as the circulation director.) He carved out a career launching new titles like Talk and Life & Style Weekly, but when Tom Nastos, the president of ENK International, offered Rosenbaum the opportunity to help oversee the company’s new events in China, he decided to shift gears and give directing shows a shot. Now, four years later, it’s safe to say the role was a good fit. While Rosenbaum’s sales experience and fashion industry insights certainly make him a go-to figure for questions ranging from the mundane to the meaningful, there’s another big reason brands and retailers keep sending him queries: Simply put, it’s Playground. The latest children’s show to enter the scene, 2 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C @ 7 D K 7 H O ( & ' ,

Playground will host its third edition next month at MAGIC in Las Vegas. It’s been more than a decade since children’s apparel had a dedicated home at what has become the biggest wholesale fashion market in America, but Playground promises to give West Coast retailers a closer-to-home show experience akin to 9^_bZh[dÊi 9bkX _d D[m Oeha 9_jo" Hei[dXWkc h[bWoi$ That goal is easier than ever, due to several big shifts in the trade show industry: After a series of acquisitions, both Children’s Club and MAGIC now fall under the umbrella of global events YecfWdo K8C$ 7i W h[ikbj" Hei[dXWkc WdZ ^_i j[Wc êf[ je integrate the Children’s Club and Playground show experiences into what he describes as one show “with an East Coast and West Coast sensibility.” Still have a bunch of burning questions? Read on for Rosenbaum’s take on everything from Playground’s prospects to the role of live trade shows in a digital era. How did your career as a magazine publisher prepare you for your current role? There are a lot of parallels. If I’m putting together a September issue of GQ" ?Êc Z[Wb_d] m_j^ *&& WZl[hj_i[hi _d j^Wj j^_d]" h_]^j5 7dZ j^[o Wbb mWdj je X[ _d j^[ \_hij '& fW][i$ ?jÊi dej kdb_a[ W CWhY^ 9^_bZh[dÊi 9bkX iêm" m^[h[ ?Êc Z[Wb_d] m_j^ +&& [n^_X_jehi" WdZ Wbb e\ j^[c mWdj je X[ _d j^[ \_hij '& oWhZi e\ j^[ iêm$ In both cases, you have to have the ability to be sensitive to your customers’ needs. And you have to be able to handle a large volume of customers—and they all expect a return on investment, just as magazine advertisers. The ability to put together a trade show that is harmonious in the way you put all of the customers together certainly parallels to the harmonious way you put together the editorial content of a magazine. After a decade-plus hiatus, why do you think the time is right to revive a children’s show at MAGIC? 7i W cW]Wp_d[ j^WjÊi Y^hed_Yb[Z Y^_bZh[dÊi WffWh[b \eh '&& o[Whi" you guys at Earnshaw’s probably know better than anybody that the industry has gone through some seismic changes since children’s

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Q& A

UP CLOSE WITH

LEE ROSENBAUM

was last on the table at MAGIC. Over that time, Children’s Club really developed a very successful formula in its presentation to the industry and commitment to both retailers and wholesalers. It’s a formula that’s very customer-service oriented and very sensitive to the needs of the industry, especially the many smaller companies within the industry and the realities at retail. So it’s not really about the past [children’s show at MAGIC], but about taking the present-day strengths and the successes of the Children’s Club formula and making that work for Playground.

What’s your favorite way to spend a free afternoon? After 23 years of marriage, I still prefer to hang out with my wife more than anyone. We see lots of movies together and love hiking in the Rockefeller Preserve in Westchester County. What the best movie you’ve seen recently? I think Brooklyn is my favorite movie so far this year—a compelling story, brilliantly acted and beautifully shot. What are you listening to right now? My passion is music and it always has been. These days I’m

What are some of those changes? For one, both Children’s Club and MAGIC now fall under the umbrella of UBM. What we have with UBM is a very experienced global events company, and events are the company’s first and foremost priority.

Combining the strengths of MAGIC and Children’s Club is a market-driven solution for the children’s industry. It’s a great opportunity to do what basically all of our exhibitors What are you reading right now? want and need, which is quite I’m reading three books—slowly. simply to capture the largest Face Paint by Lisa Eldridge, portfolio of retailers possible. The Soul of an Octopus by Sy The reality is that retailers are Montgomery and sometime this traveling less than they used year I will finish the Steve Jobs to. When I look at the brands biography. at Children’s Club, they are rock star brands. But whethWhat three things would you er you are a rock star brand in bring to a deserted island? I clothing or you’re U2, you still would never, ever go to a deserted have to travel to your audience. island. Just not my thing. And I That’s just reality. We’re trywould suck at being a survivalist. ing to create an opportunity for exhibitors to travel west and capture a huge new market of buyers for whom traveling to New York City is a challenge. We’re trying to create an opportunity that’s convenient for them, at what is arguably the largest wholesale marketplace in the world. It’s all part of our plan to leverage every possible market opportunity for our exhibitors. a bit of a house head, listening to lots of house music and EDM. But I collet everything from the blues to classic French pop.

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Will there be any big differences between the two shows? Our strategy is to create not an alternative but an additional opportunity for the exhibitors at Children’s Club. We’re not looking to reinvent the wheel with Playground. People seem to like Children’s Club, and the productivity at Children’s Club is pretty consistently solid. What we’re out to do is capture the largest group of retailers that we can, and if we have to take the show on the road to do it, then we’re doing it with Playground. What are some of the strengths of Children’s Club you hope to replicate at Playground? I think we’ve really been able to build a sense of community [at Children’s Club]. As the market has evolved from very, very large companies with very large booths to a market with much more diversity, we’ve really developed the ability to accommodate small, mid-size and large companies, creating opportunities for all of them to flourish together. Being able to merchandise new brands with older, established brands really enables us to satisfy the needs of each, especially since it brings in a diverse group of buyers. That’s what’s made Children’s Club work consistently. We have strong retailers and strong exhibitors—and great customer service. One of the things I’m most proud of is our team’s personal attention to our brands—who they are, what they need, which brands they want to be around and the buyers they are looking for. It’s a specialty market. The Children’s Club model is very in tune with what’s happening in the industry, so if we can bring that experience and knowledge to how we develop Playground, I think it’s right for the times and right for the state of the industry. MAGIC is known for attracting big, international buyers—not necessarily specialty buyers. What is your team doing to bring those retailers to Playground? I would say that MAGIC is known for attracting buyers and retailers of every ilk—from single-store boutiques to major international department stores. That’s what makes MAGIC such a compelling and unique marketplace. For Playground, our attendee efforts are specifically focused on about 13,000 dedicated children’s retail accounts across 13 western states and a bit of the Midwest. Many of these buyers admit they would love to attend Children’s Club, but for one reason or another they can’t. So we are talking to these folks and sharing our commitment to building a trade platform that celebrates some of the best children’s brands and collections in the land, just as we do at Children’s Club. So, say I’m a brand with a small budget. Do I go to Playground or Children’s Club? Both shows are surely able to accommodate and find solutions for brands with limited resources. I think the consideration has more to do with the existing stock list and the design sensibility of the collection. Of course the first thing we would ask the brand is: Have they invested in the necessary infrastructure to do business effectively at either show? Do they have their production in order? Is there a website buyers can visit after being compelled by the brand at the show? Do they have their systems buttoned-up? Any big plans in the works for the shows in 2016? We’re really trying to create seamless integration, and make it >41

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Oil & Water raincoat, Oaks of Acorn dress, Bang Bang Copenhagen tights, Soft Gallery fanny pack, Converse lace-ups. Opposite Page: Appaman jacket, Bang Bang Copenhagen dress, Tea Collection leggings, Peppercorn Kids leg warmers, Akid shoes.

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Malibu Sugar cowl, Gardner and the Gang poncho, Dandy Star pink sweatshirt, Molo skirt, Elephantito boots. Opposite page: Soft Gallery jacket and sweater, Bang Bang Copenhagen leggings and hat, Skechers high-tops; Soft Gallery jacket, Bang Bang Copenhagen skirt, Dandy Star tights, Oil & Water rain boots, Peppercorn Kids scarf. Stylist: Jessica Zindren; Hair and makeup: Alfred Lester/Utopia. 34

BEHIND THE SEAMS ACCESSORIES

Once Upon a Time

Henny & Coco promises princess-perfect accessories for tiny trendsetters.

OMESTIMES DREAMS really do come true—especially in children’s fashion, where fairy tales and folklore are a constant source of inspiration. Case in point: Jennifer Hall-Fitch, creative director and owner of girls’ accessory brand Henny & Coco. “I’m a small-town girl from Iowa. I spread my wings and went to L.A.,” she recalls. By the tender age of 18, she had sold her first line of jewelry to high-end Melrose Avenue retailers. And that was just the beginning for the budding designer. After graduating from fashion school, she interned with a women’s line but quickly realized the role wasn’t a fit. “I knew I never wanted to be a pattern maker. I wanted to be a business person,” she says. However, working behind the scenes provided a crash course in everything that makes a fashion company function, from garment dying to shipping. The knowledge came in particularly handy when she launched Henny & Coco in the winter of 2013. Like many moms in the industry, Hall-Fitch was inspired to jump into the children’s market when she couldn’t find what she needed for her daughter—a simple, dainty hair bow. So she set up shop in her garage and began crafting a broader range of accessories catering to stylish mothers looking to outfit their daugh3 6 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C @ 7 D K 7 H O ( & ' ,

ters in similarly trendy attire. Couture for kids, or “fashion for the littles,” as Hall-Fitch describes it, the line eventually expanded to include sunglasses, jewelry, headbands, hair clips and hair ties. The collection, which wholesales for $8.50 to $20, strikes a balance between playful elements, represented by Henny (her son’s nickname), and classic styles, appropriately dubbed Coco (for fashion icon Coco Chanel). “I’m inspired by elegance. I swear in my life somewhere I was a princess. I had a crown on my head and wore a tulle skirt everyday,” Hall-Fitch laughs. Fittingly, regal touches abound, from velvet fabric to shimmering stars. For Fall/Winter ’16, Hall-Fitch promises a magical mélange of jewels and pearls set against a backdrop of smooth velvet and frothy chiffon. As for the next chapter, she envisions incorporating cashmere, faux fur and tulle clothing, as well as a line of boys’ accessories. And given the brand’s steady growth—it’s already available at more than 20 retail locations in the U.S. and Europe—a Henny & Coco flagship store may even be on the horizon. After all, she adds, “I believe in fairy tales.” —Dara D’Onofrio

Bee in Her Bonnet

booth #1449

How social media helped Markey Hutchinson build buzz for her timeless designs.

T ALL STARTED with a Facebook message. “One day I ran across a picture on Facebook of a friend’s baby girl in a Beaufort Bonnet,” reminisces Markey Hutchinson, owner of The Beaufort Bonnet Company. “I messaged her and said, ‘I have to have it. Where did you get it?!” Purchased in a quaint children’s boutique in the heart of historic Beaufort, SC, the unique cap mirrored the rich, cultural heritage of the city in which it was created. Versatile enough to protect baby at the beach and dressy enough for Easter brunch, it was everything Hutchinson yearned for in a baby accessory—practical, pretty and classic. Shortly after, a package arrived at Hutchinson’s door: a pink gingham bonnet. Worn by her then-newborn daughter, the hat garnered constant compliments. Hutchinson directed the bonnet’s fans back to the original business, until one day a friend remarked that the website had vanished. As it turns out, the owner was struggling to keep up with sales—something Hutchinson viewed as a challenge rather than a drawback. In 2012, she purchased the little bonnet business, originally called Susu & John, and renamed it The Beaufort Bonnet Company to celebrate the accessory that started it all. Hutchinson keeps the company’s legacy alive by offering products that provide both form and function. Currently carried at over 300 stores, the brand offers everything from bonnets to bloomers, bucket hats, corduroy jumpers, pajama sets and classic knit scarves, designed for ages newborn to 6 years. (Wholesale prices range from $7 to $50.) Among her favorite pieces is the bow swaddle, the first item she designed after acquiring the company. Rendered from a soft cashmere and cotton blend, Hutchinson updated the nursery staple with an oversized bow. However, the eponymous bonnet continues to be the brand’s No. 1 seller. The Fall ’16 collection, a nod to her childhood, features a mix of preppy corduroy staples and a few “spiced up” items, including a mod, color-block jumper. Befitting the brand’s origins, social media has helped catapult it to success. (It has more than 58,000 fans on Facebook.) Another testament to the company’s commitment to communicating with its customers: Hutchinson’s employees have been known to personally e-mail patrons. “We can’t grow without our customers,” she points out. “We want them to feel a part of our team.” —D.D.

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last week in July, says Chris Oldland, president of Hatley. “When the temperature drops, it happens fast, and you don’t want to miss backto-school,” he says. “At the same time, some pieces are expensive and it might take two visits before a purchase is made.” However, some suppliers like Andy & Evan are finding showcasing winter wear too soon can turn off shoppers—and can ultimately become a burden for the retailer. “Traditionally, retailers bring in outerwear during the end of the summer, but I’ve seen a shift away from this and now more are bringing [it] in September and October,” says Isaac Maleh, executive vice president of sales and merchandising. “This keeps the goods fresh by the time the weather gets cold. Since they do take up a lot of space and have higher tickets, retailers try to move the majority by the end of the holiday season.” While it may make sense to stock transitional items like fleece and jersey lightweight jackets in August, outerwear needs to deliver in September for the selling season to be effective, says McCarthy. And even if retailers want to buck the traditional calendar and display heavy winter goods at a later date, McCarthy notes that some manufacturers may not be on board. “Retailers don’t necessarily dictate the delivery window unless they specifically ask a manufacturer to hold their shipment and not deliver until a certain time,” she notes.

MANAGE MARKDOWNS In an ideal world, all outerwear would be sold at full price, but short of that lofty ambition, experts recommend a wait-and-see approach before slashing prices. After all, if a cold snap drives shoppers to the stores in January, marked-down merchandise means lost dollars. “The fact is that retailers are still in the mindset that they need to mark down and move out goods right after the holidays and in most cases, start before,” notes McCarthy. “I am starting to see a trend, though, where boutiques are waiting to mark down winter-specific goods and in some cases, store them for the next year.” In fact, manufacturers like Appaman encourage their buyers to postpone markdowns as long as possible. “We don’t like to see any markdowns until the goods have been 12 weeks out from start ship date,” says Husum. “This is a hard rule to enforce, but we encourage this from our vendors.” And some retailers that follow this philosophy find that it creates a special opportunity for their customers. “We do a big end-of-season sale in February since most of the vendors we work with do not allow us to break price until this time,” says Andrews of Miller’s. That being said, any retailer with overstock knows that hanging onto out-of-season merchandise is easier said than done. To avoid a surplus of scarves and coats, retailers must develop a sales strategy that works

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for their respective businesses. “If your strategy is to be the retailer for a certain brand, you have to buy big to make that statement,” says Oldland of Hatley. “If the brand is popular this can work well. However, with outerwear you need to buy well in advance and if the season is mild, you have to go on sale earlier than planned. I would lean towards buying down the middle…leaving some dollars for open-to-buy.” Maleh at Andy & Evan suggests retailers adopt a relatively cautious approach and base their buys on the previous year’s numbers and adjust them based on past performance and general trends. “It’s better to be conservative with the upfront buy, and look for ‘in season’ opportunities versus having too much inventory on your floor and hoping the weather gets (and stays) cold early and long enough to help boost outerwear sales,” he advises. MERCHANDISING DONE RIGHT Most industry insiders agree that creating a distinct outerwear section is essential to success. “People want choice and having to walk around the store to find all the outerwear options does not make sense,” Husum states. Oldland agrees. “People are specifically shopping for outerwear; they don’t stumble across it like daywear,” he notes. “With that said, it’s a missed opportunity not having add-on items that make sense close-by,” he adds. Nevertheless, retailers that choose to stretch the rules find that flexible merchandising makes their store more interesting. At CapeKids, infant cardigans, matching hats and booties from Susa Creations, a Maine-based company that uses Malden Mills fleece, is showcased

under a large poster announcing ‘Snuggle Season.’ “It’s what we call this time of year,” notes Devlin. The display is anchored by a collection of Fingerprints Fisherman sweaters on the store’s center table, which helps to create a seamless transition between outerwear and other children’s winter wear. OUTERWEAR EQUALITY Keeping your store’s customers in mind—especially when it comes to gender—is also crucial when it comes to selecting outerwear. “Girls’ [clothing] in the boutique market tends to sell better in stores,” says McCarthy. “Overall, though, it depends on where the store is located and what type of clientele shops in their stores to determine the overall buy.” That’s certainly the case at CapeKids. “We firmly believe in giving boys a wide variety, but girls consistently outsell boys in every category,” Devlin says. Meanwhile at Miller’s, Andrews reports she typically buys an equal amount of outerwear for girls and boys. In fact, Husum hints that outerwear may be a category where boys’ sales shine. “If it were up to us, it would be 50/50, but what we hear is that most buyers do 60 percent girls, 40 percent boys,” she says. “They claim moms spend more money on their girls.” However, Appaman’s numbers show a more equal divide. “It may be slightly higher in girl than boy, but the difference is marginal.” COMMUNICATION IS KEY Whether solids or prints will be a hit depends on how well retailers know their clientele, and communicating with them is essential to

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success. For CapeKids, providing look books is the way to go. “Customers love to see the garment on a real child,” explains Devlin. She also finds social media to be a useful tool, by showcasing of her outerwear and special events via Facebook. Aside from highlighting newly arrived merchandise, social media is also instrumental in proving a boutique’s guarantee of in-stock outerwear—something a big box can’t always do. “Social media in the boutique business plays into a huge part of the overall business in general,” notes McCarthy. “So utilizing that to let your customers know your shipment has come in is very important.” And as Maleh notes, “It’s a great way to offer promotions to the consumer as well as to educate the customer on what differentiates your outerwear (features, price point, etc.) from the competition.” For some suppliers, however, more traditional forms of communication work best when marketing outerwear. “Social media has become like the Wild West,” quips Husum. “The algorithms change weekly, making it a hard game to conquer.” Instead, Appaman finds success with direct e-mail campaigns. Of course, no form of virtual communication can replace the value of in-person customer service, especially at the boutique level. “You have to have knowledgeable, trained staff to sell a high-end outerwear product to justify the cost,” affirms Andrews of Miller’s. “You also have to be able to stand behind the products you sell so that customers keep coming back to tell their friends.” Training staff to demonstrate how a coat’s hood unzips or how to adjust snow pant straps can tip the scale between a sale and no sale. “I

have found that with our girls’ selection, having the child actually put the coat on can make all the difference,” says Krakora of Little Threads. “If there’s a cute belt or special collar, the customer won’t be able to tell how it looks and feels without trying it on. Encouraging them to do so is crucial.” WEATHER OR NOT Even with the best salesmanship, the outerwear market is not without its challenges for boutique buyers. Many retailers cite weather as their No. 1 concern, and with last year’s winter off to a slow start, it remains to be seen whether retailers will be able to sell off their cold weather inventory. NPD’s Cohen does not expect the current season to be a good one for outerwear. “There is too much ground left to catch up,” he explains. “People are more likely to hang on to last year’s merchandise.” While he does not rule out January and February for sales, he believes consumers won’t make as much of an investment in outerwear this season. What that means for Fall/Winter ’16 outerwear remains to be seen. Shoppers may finally be ready to stock up on coats and scarves, or they may believe the items are unnecessary if they suspect it will be another warm winter. Despite these obstacles, Cohen still believes specialty retailers can use this opportunity to their advantage and compete with the retail behemoths. “Be more localized and give consumers what they want, when they want it,” he advises. “Small retailers can buy what they need, when they need it. They can also carry a unique assortment tailored to their consumers. We call it a ‘long and strong’ i[bb_d] i[Wied0 ?j YWd X[ bed][h" Xkj icWhj[h$È

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as easy as possible for Children’s Club exhibitors to migrate west. Just in the first two chapters of Playground, it’s really represented itself as a geographic complement to Children’s Club. There’s a national buyer base at Children’s Club, as well as European and Canadian buyers. At Playground, almost 85 percent of the buyer base is from 13 western states, as well as Latin America, Western Canada, and from the Far East, largely Japan. When you look at buyer attendance, it really makes sense, and it’s doing exactly what we want it to do. We want to put more resources toward [Playground], we want to expand the exhibitor base and make it as easy as possible for our Children’s Club exhibitors to take advantage of what we see happening out there. What are some of the ways you’re integrating the two shows for exhibitors? It’s some of the basics. It’s about prices. It’s about like-minded booths. It’s about shipping. It’s about samples. It’s about packages. If you plan for one show, you should really be able to plan for both shows. I think we’re making good progress so far. But it doesn’t happen overnight, because you’re talking about two different shows evolving into one, with an East Coast and West Coast sensibility.

shows offer to buyers that those sites don’t? Everyone wants to pit live trade shows against digital tools. I don’t think there’s a strong correlation between the two. I see NuOrder and Brandboom as very effective tools that bring ease, efficiency and knowledge to the ordering process for manufacturers. Many exhibitors have even integrated digital tools into our show to speed up the buying and the selling process. That buying and selling process is core to what we do at Children’s Club, and I see these digital ordering tools as just enhancing what we’re about. But I certainly don’t see these tools replacing the essence of trade shows. I really believe to my core that business is still done better face to face, especially in apparel. You can’t really replace that inherent need, particularly for textiles, to touch and feel the goods; to experience what is arguably many different standards in production. Not to mention, trade shows offer a unique opportunity to get the full breadth of a collection. Even if a buyer really thinks they know a brand, every season involves new goods and new production runs. I think it’s very hard to judge a new collection from a flat piece of paper or a line sheet. And for a retailer, having a personal relationship with the person you’re doing business with, particularly if you can meet the designer and understand her inspirations, will help you sell the product.

Today many retailers are making wholesale purchases on digital platforms like NuOrder and Brandboom. What do you think trade

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ing a sweater in a garage or a major company. Children’s Club has given so many of our exhibitors, both large and very, very small, the chance to have a powerful voice. The show provides a stage to present the brand, the creator and the product in the most honest way possible. Trade shows are like a live performance. Adele makes this beautiful record and sells two million copies, but it’s a totally different experience when you watch her perform the album live. Your context for appreciation is completely different. A lot of things can be put into a website to disguise the quality of the product and the realization of a brand. But when you’re coming to a trade show, you’re performing live. It’s where the rubber hits the road. And I think the brands that can do both—put a great digital and live presentation together—are the ones that succeed. In another digital-era evolution, some new brands are focusing exclusively on direct-to-consumer sales. What would you say to those brands? It takes a whole lot of sophisticated technology to get the word out under a direct-to-consumer model. And it takes a deep understanding of the social media world. To start a brand and focus in one area only—that’s not something I would advise. In today’s economy, you have to try and master many different opportunities and see which works best for you. And direct-to-consumer is just one of those opportunities? I think most brands feel that they have to have diverse channels for sales and one doesn’t really replace the other. Today, you have to have a website. Ninety-nine percent of the exhibitors at Children’s Club and Playground have a website. And most of them have some element, whether large or small, of direct-to-consumer sales. But I think the smartest brands are doing a bit of DTC and a whole lot of wholesale activity, as well as pop-up

shops, store-in-store concepts and creating diffusion lines if the opportunity is there. The smartest brands, sort of like smart investors, have a very diversified portfolio. They follow the ebbs and flows of the different channels, and try to capture the momentum as each flourishes. Trade show presentation is very important, but it’s only part of a brand’s presentation. You also have to have a great digital presentation and great social media efforts. I think that type of diversification is not only the secret to success in the fashion business, but for any entrepreneur. You really should investigate all the different avenues of opportunity. Is that the advice you give to new children’s brands? The advice I would give to someone in the children’s fashion business is the same I would offer to any new entrepreneur looking to expand their brand: Business will not come to you; it requires building and not waiting. I think a lot of my advice is Business 101 and filled with clichés. Leave no stone unturned. Don’t take no for an answer. Invest in quality product. Embrace disciplined spending. I’m a big believer in that, even when selling space at Children’s Club. I always encourage brands to build [booths] within scale of the business, and to make sure the wholesale world and trade show world is the right avenue for them. I encourage them to invest in sales technology and systems and recognize shipping deadlines (I hear that a lot from the retail side). Do your homework, prepare for the show and know the competition as well as you know yourself. Most importantly, create a sales proposition. Even when building a booth for a trade show, ask yourself: What is unique about my brand? Know what would make a buyer say, ‘Ah, that’s the point of difference.’ Having a unique selling proposition and a deep understanding of what your brand represents, even without clothes in the booth, is crucial. Then,

be sure to express that and explain that. And since the children’s business is so rich with entrepreneurs and smaller businesses, it’s also important that everyone in the company can express what inspired your brand and what’s unique about it. What advice do you offer to brands before a show? Look up. The customer is in front of you; not on the screen below you. I know some shows have more buyers than others; I take heat sometimes. It’s just reality. We do our best, but obviously attendance is often based on the nature of the market. But we work very, very hard to merchandise the show intelligently and strategically, and sometimes I see what could be a very nice collection but the people in the booth are looking at their cell phones as buyers pass by. Even in a booth 13 feet wide, you’ve got 13 feet to engage the buyer. And again, put together a brand presentation that compels them. Your booth is a store window. Showcase that one killer look from your collection, the one that may make a buyer stop in her tracks. With warmer-than-usual weather slowing down 2015 sales, I suspect buyers will be pretty cautious next year. How will that affect the shows? We’re in the same business as our exhibitors. We feel the same pains and frustrations. We try and pay attention to the needs of both our attendees and our exhibitors. After all, we’re all in this together. We try to be sensitive to the tough times and embrace the good times. But at the end of the day, we do feel in our heart that an investment in sales—and that’s what trade shows are all about—is one of the best _dl[ijc[dji ekj j^[h[$

shop talk Southern Hospitality BEFORE OPENING SUGAR IdWf F[W _d (&'&" P^[doW Ak^d[ b_l[Z _d 9^_YW]e WdZ meha[Z _d j^[ fkXb_i^_d] _dZkijho$ Ç? mWdj[Z je ][j ekj e\ j^[ YebZ WdZ _dje j^[ Y^Whc_d] 9^Whb[ijed [l[hoed[ bel[i"È Ak^d[ [nfbW_di$ 7dZ j^WjÊi [nWYjbo m^Wj i^[ Z_Z0 >eki[Z _d j^[ Y_joÊi fei^ iêff_d] Z_ijh_Yj" Ik]Wh IdWf F[WÊi Xkijb_d] Yb_[dj[b[ _i W c_n e\ jekh_iji WdZ beYWbi" ceij e\ mêc Wiikc[ j^[ iêf _i Wd kfiYWb[ Y^W_d kfed [djho$ >[h A_d] Ijh[[j Xekj_gk[ mWi ie ikYY[ii\kb i^[ ef[d[Z W i[YedZ beYWj_ed _d j^[ ikXkhXi e\ 9^Whb[ijed _d (&')$ ÇM[ mWdj je Y^Wd][ j^[ _Z[W e\ m^Wj W Écec WdZ fefÊ ijeh[ YWd beea b_a["È e\\[hi Ak^d[$ ÇM[ \eYki ed j^[ fheZkYj X[_d] h[fh[i[dj[Z _d Wd [Wio mWo$È DWjkhWb meeZ WdZ ]WblWd_p[Z c[jWb \WY[#ekji Wh[ ki[Z _d b_[k e\ hWYai je iêm e\\ j^[ 1. Nail art, earrings and veggiebased perfume sticks by Poppy Drops are a top-seller with tweens. (poppydrops.com)

iêfÊi WffWh[b" jeoi WdZ WYY[iieh_[i \eh _d\Wdji je ]_hbiÊ W][ '($ ?d jeZWoÊi 7cWped [hW" Ak^d[Êi ]eWb _i je Çh[jhW_dÈ ^[h iêff[hi je [nf[Yj ceh[ Xo m[bYec_d] Ykijec[hi je ^[h ijeh[ Wi i^[ mekbZ ^[h emd êc[$ Ç?jÊi W l[ho ;khef[Wd [nf[h_[dY[ j^Wj m[Êh[ jho_d] je Xh_d] je 9^Whb[ijed"È i^[ WZZi$ 7dZ Wbb e\ j^[ ijeh[Êi [cfbeo[[iÆ\hec Xko[hi je cWha[j_d] WiieY_Wj[i WdZ Ak^d[ ^[hi[b\ÆjWa[ jkhdi meha_d] j^[ Ôeeh$ J^Wj X[_d] iW_Z" Ak^d[ i[[i ieY_Wb c[Z_W Wi W a[o fWhj e\ j^[ el[hWbb [nf[h_[dY[$ ÇEkh Ykijec[hi ^Wl[ iW_Z dkc[heki j_c[i" É? iWm j^_i ed ?dijW]hWc WdZ mWi Zo_d] je i[[ _j"ÊÈ i^[ [nfbW_di$ ÇJ^[oÊh[ ]hWl_jWj_d] je j^[ ijeh[ je WYjkWbbo \[[b WdZ jekY^ Wd _j[c" WdZ je X[ [ZkYWj[Z WXekj ekh fheZkYj$È —Ann Loynd 6. The store’s latest addition? ‘Lil Fairy Door. “It goes back to the imaginative play. It’s a teeny tiny door that you attach to your baseboard at home and fairies live behind it.” (littlefairydoor. com)

2. For encouraging creativity, Kuhne steers parents toward Maileg’s mouse in a matchbox. “Kids are supposed to come up with their own stories behind it. You can picture two little girls sitting on a fun rug playing with their little mice.” (maileg.com)

7. “Mermaids and fairies and unicorns have become the hottest thing right now.” Hampton Mermaid Company makes mermaid tails, recommended for strong swimmers or splashing in the shallow end. (hampton mermaid.com)

3. “Appaman is our go-to for all climates. Though cold weather is very brief here, they have great layering pieces and accessories.” (appaman.com)

8. With a flat head that grips food without spilling, she suggests NumNum’s spoons for baby. (numnumbaby.us)

4. Infant gowns by Goumi Kids are “good for parents who are sleep-deprived. You can unsnap their feet for a quick night change.” (goumikids.com)

9. Holly & Beau’s color-changing umbrellas are “very cool and reasonably priced.” (hollyand beau.com)

5. Girls who love “flashy things” can’t resist accessories from Two’s Company. “A $3 headband can be a nice little add-on.” (twoscompany.com)

Zhenya Kuhne offers a European welcome in her Charleston shop.

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10. Beloved for its bright jewelry and whimsical accessories, “Peppercorn Kids has always been a wonderful line for us.” (peppercornkids.com)