Earnshaw's | January 2017

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VOLUME 101 NUMBER 1

JANUARY 201 7 $10.00

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COASTS. IMPORTANT SHOWS. ESSENTIAL MARKETS. for The Most Critical Buying Season of the Year for Retailers, Brands, Students and their Parents.

JA N UA RY 2017 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Kristin Young Editor-in-Chief

FEATURES 14 Happy Birthday, Baby!

Chief Executive Officer Yates Hooper illuminates Elegant Baby’s half century of gifting expertise.

20 Evergreen Autumn-inspired hues and cozy textures elevate an everyday romp in the woods to the perfect Kodak moment.

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Emily Beckman Associate Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster

D E PAR T M E NT S 6 Editor’s Note 8 Small Talk 10 Hot-Button Issue 18 Trend Watch 32 Designer Chat 34 Up Close 40 Shelf Help

This page: Mack & Co hat and coat.

Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 135 West 20th Street Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com

PAGE 20

On cover: Tiny Whales cap, Joules jacket, Barque sweater, E-Land shirt, True Religion jeans.

CORPORATE

Photography by Zoe Adlersberg; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY.

Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 135 West 20th Street, Suite 402 New York, NY 10011. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender.

Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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Fall/Winter/Holiday 2017

E A R N S H AW ’S M A G A Z I N E

Earnie Awards winner 2013

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2015

EDITOR’S NOTE

I

F YOU MISSED Captain Fantastic, take it from us, see this film. Aside from starring Viggo Mortensen, who received a Golden Globe nomination for his portrayal of a father devoted to raising his six children in the forest far away from outside influences, the movie is set against the majestic wilds of the Pacific Northwest and a visual stunner. What does this have to do with childrenswear, you ask? It was Captain Fantastic that inspired stylist Mariah Walker and photographer Zoe Adlersberg to cart five oversized suitcases filled with children’s clothing through the streets of New York, hop a plane and drag them deep into the woods north of San Francisco. Together, they captured the movie’s mood in “Evergreen,� page 20. Captain Fantastic was all about shaking convention and, arguably, the same can be said of the newest pieces from the Fall ’17 collections. They let the children run free and, whether in a fashion spread or in real life, that’s always a beautiful sight to see.

Speaking of free spirits, when it comes to creating theatrics both on the runway and off, nobody does it better than Betsey Johnson.

In our new column, “Designer Chat,� page 32, Earnshaw’s shoots the breeze with Johnson to gain insight into the unstoppable energy and spunk that’s made her a legend in women’s fashion since the ’60s. Turns out, recently launching an exclusive kids’ line for Babies “R� Us was a walk in the park. “After all my years in the industry, there’s nothing challenging,� she relays.

Life force is particularly celebrated in the act of baby gifting, and the January issue highlights one of the longest-standing gift companies in the business. Elegant Baby’s Chief Executive Offer Yates Hooper refers to gifting in almost reverent terms, describing it as way more than a “stuff� business, but a celebration of new life and a demonstration of love through the act. Flip to “Happy Birthday, Baby!� on page 14, and you’ll also find out what’s behind

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Hooper’s first name and which one of his relatives’ signatures is on the Declaration of Independence.

Breaking with custom was also a theme last year among many businesses, eager to find unorthodox methods to help offset any setbacks. This was especially true in the outerwear category. In “Inside Out,� page 10, we tackled the state of the children’s coat business which appears to have fared better last year compared with 2015. And there’s optimism for 2017, which is remarkable given that at press time, 2016 was shaping up to break another record for the warmest year.

January is a time of setting goals, casting off bad habits and maybe shedding a pound or two. To that end, we asked our industry peers to jot down their New Year’s resolutions. Sometimes answers were all-business, sometimes they were personal. All were enlightening. As for what’s on my agenda for 2017, I want to meet more of our readers, read more books, sew for fun and travel to a far-off land. I’ve been fortunate enough to experience countries like Myanmar, India, Africa, Cambodia and Thailand.

Vietnam is next on my list. Travel is my definition of freedom.

Until I get to dust off my passport, however, I’ll be in New York where we’re co-hosting Earnshaw’s Live, a collaboration with the Children’s Club trade show this month. If you find yourself at the Javits Center from Jan. 8 to Jan. 10, stop by our onsite studio for industry interviews and discussions hosted by our team. We look forward to seeing you there. .

KRISTIN YOUNG k ri s ti n .yo u n g @ 9 t h r e a d s . co m

P H OTO G R A P H BY ZO E A D L E R S B E R G

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SMALL TALK “Stay on goal and streamline our processes.�

NEW YEAR, NEW GOALS Out with the old and in with the new. Even with the presidential election to the side, 2016 will still go down as a year packed with newsworthy events. David Bowie, Prince and Nancy Reagan all passed away. ISIS continued its terror. North Korea provoked us with a rocket launch. And then there was Brexit. It all conspired to exhaust us. On social media, hilarious memes began popping up like, “Me at the beginning of 2016,� one illustrated by a young, fresh-faced Leonardo DiCaprio in Titanic versus,“Me at the end of 2016,�illustrated by the ravaged, bedraggled actor in The Revenant. The childrenswear industry had its share of upsand-downs, too. Shipping costs, declining sales, adverse effects of the weather were just some of the issues. No one said business was a breeze. Abraham Lincoln may have once said, “Always bear in mind that your own resolution to succeed is more important than any other,� but we couldn’t help but wonder: What does the rest of the industry hope to accomplish in 2017?

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BE PRESENT. DREAM BIG. ENJOY LIFE. SPREAD THE LOVE.

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“As we move into the second decade of business, our resolution is to expand our commitment to personalized service despite being an online store.â€? Ģ ĆŤ ÄŒĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ

“What comes to mind is unplugging a bit more in the New Year and trying to create no-technology hours in our home to create more balance. Ģ ĆŤ ÄŒĆŤ

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“Spend more time talking with my customers on the phone. Schedule more time for me on my calendar, exercise, learn a new skill and block time to read more about my industry.â€? Ģ ĆŤ ÄŒĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ÄĄ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤÄ’ĆŤ ĆŤ

“At Masala Baby, each stitch tells a story. We’re working to grow and strengthen relationships with sourcing groups that support women and their craft in India and, in turn, develop inspiring stories and collections.â€? Ģ ĆŤ ÄŒĆŤ ĆŤ ÄĄ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤĹ?ĆŤ

“Be in the moment, and turn off! Oy, this is the hardest for me. My whole family would be so happy to see me shut my devices off at night. Dear family, I will try!â€? Ģ ĆŤ

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“These days, things change constantly, not annually, and there are too many moving parts so I just go with the flow, shift gears and move on.â€?Â

reps) feels validated and appreciated for all their hard work and effort.�

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“As a small business, I have a long list of resolutions. At the top of my list is to partner with complementary brands to create cross-promotions for our retailers.â€? Ģ ĆŤ

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“Instead of resolutions, I create a yearly theme. ‘The Next Big Step’ is what we are calling our corporate initiatives such as revenue growth, performance improvement and creating a distinct marketplace advantage.â€? Ģ ĆŤ

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“To live a more organic life.â€? Ģ

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“My goal for 2017 is to organize time for social media, website content and promotions online.â€? Ģ ĆŤ

ÄŒĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ

“Despite how busy things get in the office, I need to make more time to ensure that our team (including our sales

TO LISTEN BETTER AND TAKE CONTROL OF MY INBOX.

Ģ ĆŤ ÄŒĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ

ĆŤ

HOT-BUTTON ISSUE

Inside Out OUTERWEAR RETAILERS AND WHOLESALERS NAVIGATED ANOTHER WARM YEAR, A PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION AND A JITTERY CONSUMER.

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

N

O MATTER HOW you slice it, 2016 will go down as the year of the unprecedented presidential election. Whatever your political affiliation, there was no denying that it caused such a distraction to the average American that less attention was paid to shopping. As of press time, the jury was still out on whether retailers could recoup those losses within the all-important holiday selling period.

Retail typically slows in election years— retail spending stagnated in 2000 and again in 2008 when new presidents were voted into office. Once uncertainty rears its ugly head, consumers tend to keep a death grip on their wallets.

But 2016 could claim another first: the warmest year on record. The World Meteorological Organization (WMO) announced that it was projecting a record year based on data that temperatures around the world, from January through November, were 1.69 degrees Fahrenheit above the 1961–1990 average, which the WMO uses as a baseline. In the U.S., NASA recorded October 2016 as the second warmest October on record. Coming off of 2015, which currently holds the record as the

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warmest year, followed by 2014 which is a close second, and the children’s outerwear industry has felt the heat.

The presidential distraction, the warm weather combined with competition from big-box and off-price stores and their rock-bottom prices all conspired to make the outerwear category challenging this year for retailers and brands alike. That said, a number of unrelated trends also emerged to make the story of outerwear in 2016, while complicated, a more positive one than doom-and-gloom.

According to an informal poll conducted in December, retailers and brands reported that 2016 was shaping up to alleviate a lot of the damage 2015’s warm weather caused in the sector.

Lynn Husum, vice president of children’s outerwear brand Appaman, concedes that even though there was some hesitation on the part of retailers to buy outerwear in the January and February markets, the majority of retailers came on board and repurchased. “We did not see a dip in outerwear sales, although the conversation was active,� she says. Pent-up demand on the part of the consumer was also rampant this year.

Outerwear by Hatley

Thankfully, the nature of childrenswear also saved itself: Because kids outgrow clothing so quickly, if a parent didn’t buy a coat for their child last year, they would have had to do so this year. “You can get away with it for one season,� Husum says, noting that you can only layer for so long. For fall, Appaman saw a slightly longer puffy coat for boys doing well in urban areas while the short puffy and bomber styles checked in rural areas.

The sweet spot price-wise ranged between $115 and $145 retail. Husum is optimistic about 2017, noting that stores that didn’t buy enough goods this year will come back with stronger orders in the future. To that end, Appaman will be expanding its offering for Fall ’17 with unexpected colorways and novelty fabrics. “We’re pretty confident it will be a great year for outerwear,� she says. “It’s something that every kid needs.�

British brand Joules echoed Appaman reporting “strong sales� in the outerwear category this year. Bestsellers for both girls and boys were heritage quilted jackets >12

CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF LOVING BABIES

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continued from page 10 girls and boys were heritage quilted jackets and rubber rain jackets in fun prints such as dinosaurs and Dalmatians. Girls’ and boys’ padded coats, formulated to withstand colder temperatures, were also among the top sellers. “We haven’t found that we are too much affected by the weather and with a growing international business, it means it is always cold or raining somewhere,� says Tamzin Law, Joules’ childrenswear buyer. “We are predicting another strong season for Fall/Winter ’17 in line with management expectation, with a large focus on back-to-school.�

Brands tended to keep fashion safe and offered traditional shapes and colors this year, notes Erin Rechner, senior editor for kidswear at trend forecasting firm WGSN. As for other outerwear styles that did well, fur-trimmed parkas, colored puffers and printed ski jackets checked briskly. Function and warmth were the focus for girls with the fur gilet, metallic jackets and denim jackets sprinkled into the mix. For boys, the sporty look was prevalent in unisex shapes. “As brands begin designing Fall/Winter ’17/’18, expect heritage colors and prints to evolve with shades of army green and updated woodland camouflage patterns in classic puffers and parkas,�

Rechner says. “As fur continues to expand for both boys and girls, high-pile materials such as sherpa, teddy bear fleece, fur and velvet will make their way into key bodies including the moto and bomber for earlier deliveries. Three-quarterlength fur coats for girls and sheepskin coats for boys will be important for the winter months.�

By most accounts, 2015 was a disaster for outerwear with temperatures reaching 70 degrees on Christmas Day in traditionally frigid cities like Montreal. The memory of excess inventory still looms large. “It was a warm streak, and I just remember seeing a sea of winter outerwear in stores,� recalls Adam Frost, vice president of sales and marketing for Canadian brand Hatley. “That definitely impacted this year, but we’re not a big technical outerwear company so the weather doesn’t really affect us.� However, Hatley and other brands have found that bumping up its fashionable items and leaving the technical coat-making to brands like The North Face, Canada Goose or Columbia, is a profitable niche in the marketplace. “Our take on winter outerwear at the boutique level is moving toward more fashion that accentuates our apparel program, a mid-layer such as a fleece or a sherpa jacket that you’d wear in October or November,� says Frost.

Frost says Hatley is focusing on providing the customer with the emotional purchase. In other words, the sherpalined plaid jacket that makes a little boy look like a lumber jack or the crazy fuzzy poofy coat that turns a little girl into a princess at affordable price points—most coats are tagged less than $100 at retail—can convince parents to purchase a second or third piece of outerwear within one season. It’s a strategy that is working for Hatley now in 1,200 boutiques in the U.S. and 800 in the U.K. and Europe. >36

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BY KRISTIN YOUNG

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, BABY!

Yates Hooper holding a photo of himself as a baby from an early catalog.

Chief Executive Officer Yates Hooper illuminates Elegant Baby ’s half century of gifting expertise.

Y

ates Hooper may just be the closest thing you can get to apparel and retail royalty in the South these days.

Aside from bearing the name of one of the oldest families in the U.S.—a great uncle, William Hooper, signed the Declaration of Independence (it’s true, we checked)—Hooper is also named after the one of the most famous retail chains in North Carolina, Belk-Yates, a department store partnership that resulted when Belk divested itself between a number of Southern families in order to expand more rapidly.

Hooper’s father, Fred V. Hooper, founded Elegant Baby’s parent company Baby Needs Inc., in the North Carolinian town of Burlington in 1967, and was a frat brother to Tucker and Ogborne Yates at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. After Hooper was born, his father named his infant son after the notable family.

This year, under its second generation of leadership, Elegant Baby and its parent are celebrating 50 years in the business. On a brisk evening at the SoHo House in New York City, Hooper sat down

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to recount his early days at the company when his family deemed him the most appropriate person to helm the business. It was the prospect of leading the company that lured him back to the U.S. from a 10-year textile and apparel export career in Mexico City starting in 2002. Extending the legacy of his father, who passed away in 1999, was another motivation to see Elegant Baby succeed for another generation to come.

And succeed it has. Describing it as a “well-oiled� machine,

Hooper says Elegant Baby now relies upon 30 employees and 170 sales reps that have placed the brand in 5,000 retail stores in the U.S. alone and built a strong presence in Canada and Latin America. “For some reason, in Latin America, they love us,” he says. Retailers range from hospital gift shops and stationary stores to major department stores and personalization businesses. They appreciate low minimums and view the company as reliable and able to turn on a dime, according to Hooper. The company also runs a website that caters to consumers directly.

Elegant Baby’s business centers around gift-giving, a gratifying aspect that Hooper describes as almost spiritual. In 2010, Hooper told Earnshaw’s that Elegant Baby guards the pastel business with its life, calling the color palette the lifeline of this business. That is

still true today. With the overall aesthetic billed as “where style meets tradition,” products range widely from jewelry and hair accessories to personalized blankets, swaddles, toys and sunglasses. Offerings also include bibs, banks and bath products.

Fuzzy socks and Christening gifts round out the pre-packed gifts.

In a world of off-price and big-box baby products, Elegant Baby initially focused on what it called the “upstairs customer” but, in fact, products start at $20 retail and can be combined, color-coordinated and arranged in themed groups in an almost infinite number of ways to reach as much or as little as a parent, friend or grandparent is willing to spend.

This versatility has resulted in Elegant Baby’s almost cult-like fan base. Many people have been buying the brand for 20 to 30

years, follow Elegant Baby on social media and are loyal to the retailers that carry it. bbb How did you get started in the baby business? I wish my Dad was here to give us his exact rendition of the story because it was always entertaining. He transitioned from being a sock salesman into selling baby hosiery where he detected a void in the marketplace for baby needs. One day when he was fired from that position, he took his life’s savings and began our parent company, Baby Needs, Inc., and later branded it Elegant Baby.

How has the business changed over the years? My dad was always very encouraging, thinking big and shooting high. However, it

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was more from the perspective of the old paradigm, which was more, more, more, grow, grow, grow. Now, I think it’s about doing well by doing good. Your business should make a positive impact. Having been born in the baby business, I’ve given more baby gifts than I can even remember.

The act of giving comes naturally, and I think it’s very important.

Has gift-giving evolved over the past 50 years? For me, it’s morphed because I’m more proud of our gifts than ever before.

We’re making better products with better quality and design. We always make our best baby gifting statements by grouping coordinating or complementary product in a beautiful gift box to create that ‘wow’ factor.

What was the biggest lesson you learned early on? I graduated from UNC at Chapel Hill, and it was time for me to find a serious job. This was in 1993, as NAFTA passed. My dad told me, ‘Son, your best opportunity is not in our business. Your best opportunity is doing something else.’ He encouraged me to learn Spanish and look towards NAFTA to pursue trade between Mexico an the United States. So that’s what I did.

I ended up in Mexico City for 10 years. It was not until I returned back to the States in 2002 that I took over Elegant Baby. At that time, the business needed my help more than ever. Ultimately, I was the family member who was best suited to take over the business. Working in the textile and garment businesses in Mexico gave me an appreciation and an understanding of working with big retailers. It also gave me the understanding and opportunity to grow our brand.

What are the current challenges affecting manufacturing ? I think the challenge for brands today is that we have to be everywhere all the time.

The business is literally 24/7. We have to be accessible to brick-and-mortar partners, online partners and our own larger Elegant Baby community. We have to remain available because we’re constantly being tagged in baby gift photos and products on social media. We are blessed to have an active community of loyal Elegant Baby fans.

As Elegant Baby reaches the half-century milestone, what is the company doing to celebrate its anniversary? We’re celebrating by introducing an organic layette and bath collection for Spring 2017. The organic range is very simple and understated, cute and timeless. These pieces make wonderful baby gifts. Our duty and responsibility is to do our part to clean up our supply chains as much as we can. I believe in using less pesticides and less chemicals since I live a very organic and clean lifestyle myself. I believe in the values of organic food and high-integrity organic supplements and taking care of my own body and health. Today’s mom is more concerned about the products she puts on or near her baby.

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Jan 23-28 March 22-25 Dallas Market Center

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Apparel, Toys, Shoes, Gifts, DĂŠcor and more!

Today, Elegant Baby is still manufactured in Mexico as well as China.

Do you ever envision a time when any of those jobs will move back to the U.S.? As I discuss with my vendor partners in China, they have trouble filling jobs because young people do not want to do these types of jobs anymore.

There are better opportunities out there.

I think this is also happening with the advent of maker movements across our country. We are embracing the concept of making things again. I think it’s going to take some time, but the race towards the bottom has to stop. There has to come a time where we value quality and not just price.

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Angel Dear, Atlanta Hosiery, Baby Bling Bows, Deux par Deux, Florence Eiseman, Kickee Pants, Kissy Kissy, Krewe, Little Joule, Little Me, Luli & Me, Mayoral, Mini-Melissa, ML Kids, Native, Pink Chicken, PPLA, Ragdolls & Rockets, Rowdy Sprout, Rylee & Cru, Splendid, Sticky Fudge, Tractr, Zuccini

What are your expectations for 2017?

Considering the fact that 2016 was an election year, I feel like 2017 is going to be a banner year. The stock market had another record day and, here in the city, I see a lot happening. It’s very busy, very hectic. It just seems like the mood is positive, and I feel like our retailers are going to show up to market in >38

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TREND WATCH

Go Green

caption

It’s not easy being green—well, until now. This year, experts at the Pantone Color Institute deemed “Greenery� the 2017 Color of the Year.

Described by the company as “a fresh and zesty yellow-green shade that evokes the first days of spring,� the cheery color is meant to revive, restore and renew. “Greenery is a shade that has a natural appeal for children,� remarks Laurie Pressman, vice president of the institute. “A youthful shade, one associated with many lovable characters from their younger days (think: Shrek and Kermit), Greenery is especially ideal for those who want to stand out amongst their peers and make a bold statement.� —Emily Beckman

Monkeybar Buddies shorts Pediped sneaker

SG Companies slipper

Zazzle bib

Watchitude slap watch

Fashion insiders eagerly await Pantone’s annual color of the year. The Pantone team combs the world looking for color trends and design influences, ultimately narrowing it down to one hue that best reflects our culture. This year’s shade exuded prominence in fashion on SS ‘17 runways while also making an appearance in home decor, architecture and beauty.

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Huggalugs leg warmers

Bon BĂŠbĂŠ outfit

Andy & Evan one-piece

Cape Clogs clogs

Frenchie Mini Couture skirt

Infantium Victoria dress

Angel Dear pillow

MAĂ Shoes shoes

Noahs Ark one-piece

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Molo hat, True Religion sleeveless jean jacket, Lanoosh sweatshirt, E-Land Kids shirt, K-Way green windbreaker (tied around waist), Andy & Evan pants.

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AI Riders on the Storm sleeveless jacket, True Religion shirt and jeans, Barque sweater. Opposite page: Deux par Deux graphic gray jacket, pants, yellow T-shirt (under sweatshirt), Lee jean shirt, Martin Lim Kids sweatshirt.

Minymo beanie, Mademoiselle à SoHo scarf, Holly & Beau raincoat, True Religion jean jacket, Deux par Deux shirt, Egg by Susan Lazar pants, Wee Ones socks, JambuKD shoes.

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Le Top bomber jacket. Opposite page: Hudson Jeans denim hoody and jeans, Vintage Havana T-shirt, Egg by Susan Lazar shirt (wrapped around shoulder).

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Left to right: E-Land sleeveless jacket and shirt, Mademoiselle Ă SoHo sleeveless turtleneck, Hudson Jeans jeans, Sorel boots; Molo hat and scarf, American Widgeon jacket, Lee shirt, Vintage Havana sweatshirt, Bearpaw boots.

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Egg by Susan Lazar sleeveless jacket, True Religion shirt, Girl & Co. by Limeapple denim jacket, Tiny Whales cap. Opposite page: Mademoiselle Ă SoHo hat, Frenchie Mini Couture jacket, Imps & Elfs jeans, Minymo cardigan (tied around the waist), Puma socks, JambuKD shoes.

DESIGNER

C H AT

Child’s Play

Eccentric fashion designer Betsey Johnson discovers the fountain of youth.

SEVENTY-FOUR YEARS young, American fashion designer Betsey Johnson continues to make her mark with retirement nowhere in sight. Known for closing her fashion shows with a cartwheel, this spunky designer continues her legacy with the same contagious energy that made her famous. Getting her start in womenswear, Johnson expanded to Betsey Johnson children’s in 1975 after having her daughter, Lulu. Today, her kids’ offerings are available online and in major department stores, not to mention the exclusive Babies “R� Us line she launched last year. The collections teem with signature flouncy skirts and glittery tops for girls who just want to have fun—like herself. “When I do appearances, I have kids from 5 years old to 85 years old,� Johnson exclaims. “It’s quite phenomenal how everyone catches my drift.� So, what’s her secret? Earnshaw’s got the scoop from Johnson while she enjoyed lunch at her favorite sushi restaurant in Malibu. —Emily Beckman What inspired you to get into children’s fashion? I feel about 200 years old because what inspired me for childrenswear was my own daughter, Lulu, in 1975. I was in a freelance period then, after Paraphernalia and after Alley Cat, and I had about two years of 10 different freelance jobs. That’s when I launched Betsey Johnson Kids.

Do you have to filter your edgy design style to fit childrenswear? No, I just shrink everything down! It’s really magical. I have a formula that changes as I go along in a category, but initially the only thing I want my collection to say is ‘hello!’ My grandchildren (ages 8 and 10) are the greatest inspiration. I should hire them as consultants.

What’s to come in your Fall ’17 exclusive collection for Babies “R� Us? You just get on a bicycle and keep riding. It uses the same kind of look and feel because it’s still a very fresh and new to the little kids. You just kind of make it more sweet or warm or furry or fun as it goes through the seasons.

What keeps you in fashion? Why not retire?

I’m still doing it because it’s truly a part of me. I hate to say it, but it’s a piece of cake. Currently I’m working on a lot of artwork. I’m doing a full set of emojis for an upcoming collection. I like how people use my art in various drawings and motifs—all that junk. Today the thing is I’m not

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the only one with the lightening bolts and the hearts anymore.

What is the most difficult part of designing children’s clothing? I hate to burst your bubble, but after all my years in the industry, there’s nothing challenging. It really is smooth if I just do what I love. I make what I would wear if I was 3-months-old.

So what trends are kids looking for these days? To be honest, I don’t know that there are fashion trends anymore. You do what you believe in. And if you’re consistent with it, people know right off the bat what they are going to get. It’s worked for me!

For inspiration, I people watch. My kids are into rose gold right now and bomber jackets. Anything close to a bomber jacket with stickers and little messages they adore.

What’s the best part about designing for kids? I feel very comfortable in this category. They are in the land of pretend a lot, which I like to join. The younger the girls, the more far out and creative their style. Clothes are like toys to them.

Who is your core customer? Usually a Betsey Johnson mom.

If a woman likes my work over the years, they pass that adoration onto their kids. I’m kind of the fancy couture designer of kids’ stuff that still stays affordable.

Fashion aside, anything else fascinating going on in your life? I’m opening a hotel in Mexico! I swear, if I just stick to my consistent look, everything is successful.

What’s the biggest challenge facing the chidlren’s market today? Here’s a good answer—I have no idea. I don’t really care. I think you just need to stay fresh and always offer something that isn’t already in the closet. I do this in collaboration with over 15 licensees.

Exclusive Babies “R� Us children’s collection by Betsey Johnson

So what’s better, West Coast or East Coast? I was always so trapped in New York. I lived there for 55 years. So when my family moved to the West Coast I was flabbergasted. Now I live in a little trailer park development called Paradise Cove in Malibu, and I’m truly in paradise. I’m more focused than ever before. I can’t believe the streets. The only surprises are on the kids because they aren’t living ‘real life’ yet. It’s amazing the version of clothes I wear out here because I just don’t care. It’s more fun to get reactions from people here while in New York I just went to work in my T-shirt and jeans.

K A H N L U C A S ’ H O WA R D K A H N • S P R I N G 2 0 1 7 A C C E S S O R Y P R E V I E W • S U N - P R O T E C T I V E C L O T H I N G

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SPRING ACCESSORIES GO BOLD

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UP CLOSE

It’s a Girls’!

Boys’ brand Kapital K unveils its first wide-ranging collection for girls.

S THE FAMOUS lyric in the 1957 song by Maurice Chevalier goes, thank heaven for little girls. Kapital K’s Owner and Designer Spencer Sujjaporamest is certainly thinking along these lines as he launches a full-fledged girls’ assortment slated to bow at Children’s Club this month in New York.

As Sujjaporamest tells it, Kapital K began nine years ago with a boys’ collection that fulfilled a void in the marketplace—that is, a contemporary line at affordable price points in a world where most boys’ clothing was either high-end or mass-produced. Armed with 20 years of experience in the business (previously an executive of a womenswear brand), Sujjaporamest decided childrenswear fit his personality better than the cut-throat, politics-heavy women’s environment. “For me, you just can’t go wrong with kids’ fashion,� he says. “I love the whole process of designing from two dimensions to three dimensions, and kids clothing gives me this opportunity.

They’re just shrunken-down versions of adult clothing.�

Every season, Kapital K adds to its assortment. A few years ago, a layette range bowed. Last year, swimwear was added.

For Spring ’17, the company started dipping its toe into girls’ silhouettes, specifically infant and toddler dresses in various prints. For fall, however, the girls’ collection is wide-ranging, from outerwear and holiday dresses to separates and coordinates.

The boys’ lineup is also filling out with new items to complement the girls’ collection as Sujjaporamest envisions stores will pick

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up pairings like big brother/little sister ensembles.

Kapital K’s girls’ collection is also introducing several new fabrics—some exclusive—including double-faced silver Lurex, French terry, plaid flannel, knit denim terry, patterned and sequined mesh, gold metallic jacquard, leopard-printed poplin, sherpa, faux fur and metallic wool tweeds. Key silhouettes include open-shoulder dresses and tops in both A-line and swing styles. For fall, the color palette revolves around dusty pink, dark navy and heathered cranberry accented with frosty ivory and beige hues as well as sparkling metallic silver and gold.

With the girls’ line, Kapital K hopes to add to the retailers it already serves—about 250 to 300 stores comprised of major department stores and specialty boutiques. About 80 percent of goods are produced in Thailand while some trims and materials hail from Hong Kong, Japan or Korea. Producing in Asia has allowed Sujjaporamest to keep price points competitive—ranging from $12 to $29 wholesale. “That’s why our customers keep coming back,� he says, noting sizes range from newborn to size 6. “They get a lot for what they pay for. We don’t cut corners, and we try to give them as much as we can afford.�

As for what’s behind the Kapital K brand name? Sujjaporamest can’t help you there. “I wish I had a really good back story,� he laughs. “People tell me to make one up. It’s just a play on words that isn’t too serious or common. It’s a good name for us. It rolls off the tongue.� —Kristin Young

Making History New York knit brand kicks up its childrenswear offerings.

HEN BLOOMINGDALE’S APPROACHED Jane Miller Saltzman, Design History’s vice president of merchandising, to design a mother-and-daughter complementary dress collection for the first time, she advised the company to, as she put it, “go with it.” The year was 2010, the year Design History Girls was born. “That’s how it really began,” says Saltzman. “I took it, and it became my little baby.”

The New York-based company, well-known for its luxurious

knits, simply transferred its womenswear aesthetic to its girls’ and toddler lineup, which now includes cashmere and wool sweaters, jersey dresses, tops and jackets. “It’s basically the same customer,” Saltzman explains. “But one is the older version and one is the younger.”

Saltzman and Design History’s creative team continually do research, gather flea market finds and look to London and Japan for design inspiration. Saltzman says she especially likes “kooky” colorway combinations like purple and chartreuse.

For Spring/Summer ’17, the collection is comprised of vibrant, feminine pinks, denim hues, boho embroidery, peasant tops, dipdyes and lace shorts in bright colors. There was even a jean jacket piled high with lace—a casual look the daughters of Sarah Jessica Parker like to wear. “It’s a testament to how well-designed the collection is; they’re not being paid to wear it,” says Saltzman.

By the fall back-to-school season in 2017, Design History Girls plans to have its own Facebook and Instagram pages as well as its first e-commerce, direct-to-consumer foray joining existing online stockists Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor and Nordstrom.

For fall, look to Design History for luxe sweaters. “The line is so popular and there is a need in this market,” says Saltzman, noting the sweaters range in size from toddlers and girls 7 to 14 and retail for $75. “There aren’t a lot of companies that import sweaters. They’re a little bit more expensive, but we have cable sweaters and dipdye sweaters. These are real sweaters; they’re just for girls.” —K.Y.

HOT-BUTTON ISSUE

children’s world Apparel | Accessories | Shoes | Gifts DÊcor | Maternity | Juvenile Products

continued from page 12 analyst for The NPD Group, has noted a shift toward buying lightweight puffy jackets and multiple layers on the part of Millennials, in particular, supplanting the purchase of traditional heavy winter coats.

The trend began during the holiday season last year. “Consumers are doing more with less; rather than purchasing specific products for every season or activity, they are buying adaptable and multipurpose items,� he says.

Like brands, savvy retailers are finding untapped niches in outerwear, implementing strategies and finding additional ways to supplement sales.

Carol Yenne, owner of Small Frys in San Francisco’s Noe Valley, says that the highly promotional nature of off-pricers like Burlington Coat Factory has infringed on her outerwear business. She projects sales of outerwear this year will be flat compared with the same period last year.

However, she found a need in the market that large retailers have not fulfilled. “We found success in newborn to size 2, which seems to be the category that was ignored in big-box stores,� she explains.

The store has had success with brands American Widgeon’s Warm Plus coats and Mayoral. Like Hatley, Yenne also has experienced profits in fashionable coats like sophisticated leather jackets, pleather and leather jackets and Westernstyle fleece jackets. “People do not see those styles at Burlington,� she points out, adding she generally stays away from ubiquitous brands like Columbia or London Fog. As for her long-ranging expectations for next year, Yenne says she hoping for an uptick buoyed by the endof-year performance of the stock market. “I’m hoping that customers are going to be more relaxed,� she says.

In Dallas, The Cozy Cottage Children’s Boutique notched outerwear sales slightly ahead of last year, largely because of cooler temps. “We’ve done better than average with hats, gloves and sweaters and sweater jackets,� reports owner Cynthia Herndon.

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“The Farmers’ Almanac says we’ll be a little cooler this year.� A flat November Herndon blames on the election has given way to a stronger December, she says. To offset the malaise, Herndon says she has participated in consumer-focused trade shows on the weekends as well as investing in her online store (on which she says consumers are more willing to pay full-price).

Even in Chicago, famous for its brutal winters, parents were delaying buying coats. There’s confusion about whether a child needs one traditional coat or several coats in multiple weights. “In Chicago, you gotta get your coat in August,� says Jennifer Pope, owner of The Red Balloon with two boutiques in the city. “But people have been hesitant, even ambivalent. They’re not sure if they’re buying for mild weather or severe. The idea of multiple coats is not appealing to parents and, in the past, we’ve never been a market for jackets, but now we’re seeing jackets, vests and knits.

There’s definitely more of an understanding that different levels of layers are going to be better utilized than one coat purchase.

When I have swimsuits and coats sitting side by side, that tells you we’re all not sure what’s going on.�

That said, Pope reports that outerwear sell-throughs have been good, thanks to convincing consumers that they should purchase the item in August because she can’t guarantee she’ll have the stock or multiple sizes once the blizzard hits. “You know you’re going to need it,� she advises clients. “Buy it now.�

Pope is also encouraged by the prospects of next year. She’s seeing a spate of new wholesale companies pop up—a group of people who can’t remember what it was like when the economy tanked. She sees this as an encouraging economic sign. These new companies could have an important psychological impact on the industry, she reasons. “It’s all new to them,â€? she says. “We need to get past the conversation of what used to be. We need business optimism in j^[ cWha[jfbWY[$Ăˆ š

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info@babyblastoff.com www.babyblastoffwholesale.com » With an official trade show debut at Playtime New York in February 2016, genderneutral brand Baby Blastoff presents a line of apparel that transcend the stereotypical messages of limiting boys to superheroes, trucks and sports and girls to princesses, flowers and butterflies. The brand started in 2012 when Founder Emily Bennett became frustrated searching for baby clothes without gender-stereotyped messaging for her 6-month-old son. Made in the United States with soft, Oeko-Tex-certified, eco-bamboo fabric and finished with original artwork by Bennett herself, the brand takes pride in the high-quality craftsmanship that goes into each step of production. Primarily sold as immediates and available in sizes newborn to 18 months, the line has grown to feature the brand’s signature bodysuit silhouette in 14 colors and 38 graphics. New pant styles are being introduced in 2017 in four colors and three unique graphics. The inspiration behind the 2017 designs come from the “city kid” (think: sparkly bicycles, fancy shoes and a bowl of noodles with chopsticks). “City life is vibrant and exciting,” says Bennett, noting the collection’s glitzy palette of red, purple, sparkles and stripes. “Pair our pants with bodysuits to make some irresistible outfits!”

Baby Blastoff can have product delivered within a week and is open to custom orders.

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Tun Tun

info@tuntun.com.pe www.tuntunkids.com » With a background in the textile realm of womenswear, Tun Tun Founder and fashion enthusiast Úrsula Malca got the urge to delve into children’s fashion after the birth of her first son Alejandro. Her goal for the new line was to mix great designs with the softest cotton on the market—Pima. Pima cotton grows north of her native country, Peru, and also gives the brand a serendipitous tie back to family heritage. Debuted in August 2016 at Children’s Club, Tun Tun presented a range of earth-toned garments, from knit sweaters and printed bodysuits to bubble shorts and tiny caps. Sizes are available from newborn to size 4T, while wholesale prices range from $7.50 to $45. With the goal of balancing the brand’s aesthetic between whimsy and subtlety, Malca has tastefully added a bit of “joy and tenderness” to the Fall ’17 collection with her favorite application—pompoms.

Also, look out for the new fall collection’s pop of character featuring adorable pet bunny graphics.

» At the age of 13, Creator and Los Angeles native Kristina Hastings was introduced to the world of competitive cheerleading where she excelled as an athlete and later as a coach. Combining her textile background with the experience of working with girls of all ages, Hastings later became enthralled with the idea of creating activewear for the modern girl. “MOD Active and MOD Girl are not made exclusively for active girls, but for every type of girl,” Hastings says. “We are trying to break the stereotype that you have to be sporty to love wearing our clothing.” MOD Active was originally launched as a women’s line in October 2015, however, after seeing an emerging market in activewear for children, Hastings decided to launch the brand for teens ages 13 to 18 (debuted Spring/ Summer ’16) and add MOD Girl for ages 6 to 12 (debuted Spring/Summer ’17). Both lines deliver comfort and function through easyto-wear, trendy silhouettes that transition well between leisure and fun. “Our approach to every season is always the same formula,” Hastings says. “Bright colors paired with simple, clean designs using high-premium performance fabric.” The Fall ’17 collection color palette includes coral, sea foam green, navy and plum paired with bold colorfully-pattern designs. MOD Girl sizes range from 6X to 16 and MOD Active ranges from XS to XL. Wholesale prices include $13 shorts and tank tops, $17 crop tops and sports bras, $22 leggings and $23 zip-up jackets.

CHAT ROOM continued from page 17

January and going to need to re-stock.

What’s next for the Elegant Baby business? I really like the idea of collaboration, number one. But number two, I like the idea of evolving the brand and doing pop-up stores or retail concepts. We’ve got such an incredibly loyal fan base all over the world. Everybody wants to know where they can get Elegant Baby and where they can buy the outfits they see in the beautiful pictures we post on Instagram and Facebook.

Do you have a big philanthropic bent to your business?

We do but we don’t publicize it. It’s not integrated into our business model. It’s just something we do through local organizations—places for battered mothers or underprivileged babies. We gift a personalized blanket with a baby’s name on it and put it in our signature Elegant Baby box along with a beautiful note that comes from the heart, reflecting the love I want to show someone who’s just been born into difficult circumstances. It’s so heartwarming to touch a young baby and a mother in need of a little bit of love and light.

Where do you get your news?

Women’s Wear Daily. It’s so important because you pick up a lot of trends in our business and other related businesses to keep a finger on the pulse.

Also social media and alternative news sites like Infowars give you a great contrast to the news.

What book is on your nightstand? Ancient Secret of the Fountain of Youth by Peter Kelder. You do these five Tibetan rites on a daily basis, and it opens up all your chakras and keeps you from aging.

What historical figure do you identify with? Given the oppor-

tunity, I would have to go back to meet a great ancestor of mine, William Hooper, who signed the Declaration of Independence.

He was a lawyer and one of only two signers from North Carolina.

Why were you named after the Yates family? The Yates family was instrumental in helping my dad start the business. It is no accident that Belk-Yates was our very first customer. The South is a place where honor and tradition are so important.

What would people be surprised to know about you? My tendency is to be a very spiritual person.

The hottest trends in Seamless Styles, Fashion Apparel & Accessories.

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WE ALL NEED TO BE LOVED. THAT’S ALL ANY OF US ARE LOOKING FOR. Personalization is becoming increasingly important in the children’s world. Would you agree? Yes, it really adds so much more to a baby gift when you can take a beautiful blanket and personalize it. Everyone loves the personalized touch in gifting. In the case of giving to a mom in need, it sends the message that it’s okay to be loved and to love. We all need to be loved. That’s all any of us are looking for.

What do you love most about your job? We’re in the ‘stuff’ business after all. That’s why I’m so blessed to be in the baby sector. In the baby gift business, a purchase has to come from the heart. It’s an expression of love through the act of babygifting for the birth of a newborn human being. It’s always amazing to start a new day excited about what I do. There’s dej^_d] ceh[ if[Y_Wb _d ekh mehbZ j^Wd d[m b_\[$

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SHELF HELP

with popular lines found everywhere, I still try to be unique with my buy. We carry Moulin Roty, Seedling, Manny & Simon, Vilac and of course Jellycat—can’t have a store without Jellycat! I really try to stay loyal to the people I buy from.

How do you select your buy? I don’t need to travel much for any of the brands. Between the two major shows that come to New York—Playtime and Children’s Club, plus several showrooms in the fashion district, I am able to find plenty of brands locally. I buy from New York, but the lines come from all over the world.

My Little Sunshine New York, New York fter growing up watching her father run a men’s retail business for more than 40 years in New York City, it was only natural for Tara Figotin to open her own children’s store. The inspiration came when Figotin moved to Chelsea more than 15 years ago and watched as the neighborhood evolved into a very family-oriented area. After her son came along and she kept having to leave the neighborhood to buy apparel and toys, a lightbulb went off. Figotin recalls thinking to herself: “A children’s store would do great here.� Enter My Little Sunshine.

The cheery, 750-square-foot space opened in 2010 followed by a second similarly-sized location in Tribeca in Spring 2013. The boutique carries such stylish upscale labels as Morley, Bobo Choses, TocotĂł Vintage, Blu Pony Vintage, Tane Organics, Mini Rodini, Scotch Shrunk and Dagmar Daley. And, sympathetic to the hectic lives of moms, Figotin aimed to make My Little Sunshine locations one-stop shops including apparel, toys and even haircuts. “I like to consider it as a modern-day mom-and-pop shop,â€? she says. “It is important to us to have created a warm and welcoming atmosphere for both parents and children by reflecting our own personal style in the store.â€? —Emily Beckman What are your bestsellers? That’s tough actually because it changes from season to season. I can tell you baby stuff across the board is by far the bestselling category, between the ages of newborn to 4 years. I guess my favorite brands would be TocotĂł Vintage, Bobo Choses, Imps & Elfs, Little Creative Factory‌ I have a ton. For toys, we try to sell things that are a little different. Even

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What inspired you to double as a destination for kids’ haircuts? I always thought the concept of kids’ haircuts was cool. I hadn’t seen many places that exclusively offered that service, and those that did were very chaotic to the point that I would’ve been nervous to bring my own kids there. It’s a helpful concept and a great way bring people into the store. Both locations have haircuts available, however business at the Chelsea location has been a challenge. I think there are a lot of barber shops in that neighborhood, and boys are more likely to go with Dad. But I don’t have that same challenge in Tribeca. The haircut in my Tribeca business is booming. So in Chelsea we have it only on the weekends and in Tribeca we have someone there five days a week. We have a little red airplane “barber chair� in each store that the kids sit in. We try to make it an organic experience.

What is the smartest business decision you’ve ever made?

Doing something that I love. Because when you love something, you do it well.

Anything new for 2017? There aren’t any new lines that we picked up for 2017, but I can tell you I feel like it will be a really strong season. The color palettes are always funny. Of course designers don’t consult each other, but they always seem to come out with similar hues. For 2017, I saw a lot of salmon and sage. The best part about kidswear is there really aren’t trends anymore. Everything seems to be in. There’s no ‘short is in’ or ‘long is in.’ I don’t see much innovation from season to season, but I understand people have been in fashion a long time—it’s hard to come up with something new all the time. So while there are weaker seasons than others, next spring will be a strong one.

If you have a free afternoon, what do you do? I don’t have a lot of free afternoons because I’m with my kids. I’m very thankful I get to work at the store until 3 p.m. and make it so I can be with my children. That has always been my priority. However, if I do anything for myself, my favorite activity is salsa dancing.

FALL 2017

CHILDREN’S CLUB New York City Jan. 8-10

CHILDREN’S CLUB Las Vegas Feb. 21-23

CHILDREN’S CLUB New York City March 5-7

Corporate

Mark Zelen 212-216-6125 1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018

Caribbean/ Latin America/ South Florida

Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-599-8717

International

Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008

North East

Bill and Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999

Texas/South West

Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446

West Coast

Teresa Stephen 213-623-8155

Western Canada Jeff Swartz 604-681-1719

Mid Atlantic

Mark Wolbransky 215-364-7906

Midwest

Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 847-607-8543

CLOTHING FOR THEIR LITTLE WORLD