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JANUA RY 2018 CONTENTS
FEATURES 12 Good Nature Lisa Huang, product line manager of Patagonia’s kids’ division, explains how the iconic outdoor company turns its eco-conscious, anti-corporate ideals into profit. By Emily Beckman
Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL
18 The Perfect Gifts Why personalized bundles, nostalgia-themed items and sustainable attributes are the leading gifting trends for 2018. By Emily Beckman
Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher
FA S H I O N
Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager
24 The Elements of Style Textured layering is on the radar for Fall ‘18. The forecast calls for urban details like camo prints, dyed furs, a stormy palette and oversized knits.
PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director
D E PA R T M E N T S
CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 135 West 20th Street Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com
6 Editor’s Note 8 Sounding Off 10 Scene & Heard 22 Trend Watch 36 Haute Topics
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38 Hot Properties 40 What’s Selling
This page: S. Rothschild & Co. coat, Boboli vest and plaid dress. On cover: Western Chief rain coat, We Love Colors turtleneck, Appaman floral jacket, Boboli hat. Photography by Zoe Adlersberg; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; prop styling by Phil Weeber; hair and makeup by Konstanze Zeller; styling assisted by Enid Hunt.
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EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 135 West 20th Street, Suite 402 New York, NY 10011. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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EDITOR’S NOTE
Begin Again T
HE DAWN OF a new year is like a fresh canvas, a period of reflection, planning and cleansing. It’s the time to drop bad habits as well as learn from previous mistakes. It’s the time to resolve to make changes, put ideas into action and commit to following them through. It’s the time to begin again. On the heels of 2017, the year of the Retail Apocalypse, we could all use a fresh start! While this year will likely be fraught with more disruption—it is the new black—at least we are familiar with the new status quo. Expect the unexpected. Accept that change is fast, often vast and takes no prisoners. Business has never been for the faint of heart. Those that take (calculated) risks and act quickly and convincingly stand the best chance at reaping the rewards. Plenty of opportunity is on the table for brands and retailers to grab a meaningful share. I take great comfort in the fact that clothing isn’t going the way of your local video store. How it’s being made, shipped, sold, merchandised, etc. is all changing rapidly, but the market remains as relevant, vibrant and full of opportunity as ever. If we ever approach a form of fashion singularity, my optimism might be crushed—same goes if a one-retailer (Amazon) scenario were to ever unfold. While it might seem like we’re closer to the latter industry dystopia, the press tends to hype matters. Studies show that more than 80 percent of retail transactions are still done in brick-and-mortar locations—in all sorts of formats and tiers. Variety is the spice of life. We humans don’t all want to dress exactly the same, nor do we all shop the same way or in the same places. We’re always on the hunt for something new, different and better. We’re always receptive to a fresh concept. If we weren’t, the Sears catalog would still be the retailing Bible. The rewards need not strictly be monetary or market share gains either. Connecting with consumers beyond a sale can be far more rewarding over the long term. A growing number of consumers want to care about the brands they purchase and the stores they shop. They want to share similar values. Of course, product features and benefits, quality and value are still key elements—just
like selection, service and convenience matter paramount in a shopping experience. But the difference maker today may have more to do with a company’s corporate responsibility resumĂŠ than whether Kim Kardashian is posting a picture of North sporting one of its items on Instagram to her millions of followers. Perhaps there’s no better poster child of this do-good movement than Patagonia, a company that has for more than 40 years built a reputation on fighting for a broad range of environmental causes and incorporating sustainable manufacturing practices. Patagonia encourages recycling and repair of its products, which is likely at the expense of sales. In 2011, it even launched a “Buy Lessâ€? marketing campaign that urged consumers to avoid over-buying its apparel to address the rampant waste in the fashion industry. (Who does that?!?) The company is also willing to stand up against President Donald Trump and his recent plans to drastically reduce the size of several national parks. Lisa Huang, product line manager of Patagonia’s kids’ division and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 12), says that’s just how they roll. In fact, the company’s first-ever national TV spot didn’t pitch products, rather it featured founder, Yvon Chouinard, making a plea to protect America’s public lands. So Jane Public needs to buy Junior a new winter jacket. She checks what’s available online, and she also goes into a few stores to touch, feel and have him (or her) try-on a few items. If the price, quality and styling are all relatively equal, and the store has it in the size and color preferred, what might the final decision come down to? Will it be a run-of-the-mill brand or the one that is trying to save the planet—literally? The fact is we live in a world where the consumer has the power to shop whenever and wherever, and can compare prices at the touch of a smartphone. They also can instantly research what type of companies they may be buying from. What’s more, in the age of social media, it’s a reputation—good or bad—that can spread like wildfire. The decision to buy which item, from whom and for how much will increasingly come down to who you really are. Nothing like a new year to resolve making upgrades in that area, too.
E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor
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SOUNDING OFF
RINGING IN THE NEW YEAR! Retailers vow to make 2018 a year of improved efficiency and increased profitability, all while relishing the daily joys that come with catering to the wants and needs of children.
GRACE MUSITANO owner, Bambini’s World, Doylestown, PA “Concentrate more on the online store doing presales. Then I will drop what’s not working and move on.�
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GERI DAMONE
Katie Hyde
co-owner, Cheeky Chic Baby & Kids Boutique, Scottsdale, AZ Hold more in-store events such as book signings and V.I.P. shopping, as well as invite designers to our fashion shows. It’s important to come up with creative ideas to continually keep in touch with our community.�
owner, Indigo Baby, Sante Fe, NM “I want to reconnect with why I got into this business in the first place, focusing more on the pure joy of it—not the daily stresses. If I’m having a bad day and the customer notices, that’s no way to sell anything.�
Lauren Blanchett owner, Tiny Ptarmigan, Anchorage, AK “Be more active on social media. For my teenage daughters, it’s part of their nature to share everything they do, but it certainly isn’t in my nature.�
owner, Lil’ Rapunzels, Palm Beach, FL “The street where we’re located is partially under construction, so I would love to do some welcoming block parties and events to get people on our main walking path again.�
SARA JANE STROUPE
Becky Salyer
owner, Sara Jane Children’s Boutique, Savannah, GA “We’ve really jumped on the pre-order bandwagon, so we will do more of those in 2018 and link it with our website.�
owner, Bumps ‘n Bundles, Billings, MT “We want to be more mindful of our online presence and social media following when planning our marketing strategies.�
Diane Etherington owner, The Children’s Hour, Salt Lake City, UT “Make sure to order more boxes for wrapping because we keep running out!�
JENNY LINDQUIST manager, Soel Boutique, Provo, UT “Always provide exceptional customer service, so every customer leaves our store feeling special. It’ll make customers want to return and move more product.�
Maureen Staley co-owner, The Picket Fence, Pittsburgh, PA “Increase our baby gift offerings and perhaps offer less full-scale clothing since we’re selling more gift items lately.�
RANDI SIEGAL
SARAH SHAOUL owner, Black Wagon, Portland, OR “Social media began as a free marketing tool and has turned into a full-time position. In 2018, we want to make the customer experience on our website as enriching as possible and streamline all our digital platforms to make better sense going forward.�
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Alexa, Connect to Customers ONCE ONLY PLAUSIBLE in the world of science fiction, today Americans simply ask a question aloud and receive an answer via a digital device, whether it be smartphones, smart speakers or smart refrigerators. In fact, 35.6 million Americans now use voiceenabled devices monthly, up a whopping 128.9 percent from last year, according to eMarketer. This impressive growth also offers potential to retailers and brands looking to profit on the experiential shopping wishes of consumers. Last month, for example. Estee Lauder introduced voice-enabled, personalized, nighttime skincare regimens for custom-
ers using Google Home. Voice experiences can unlock another level of personalization to help brands reach the next generation of customers, according Tricia Nichols, the beauty giant’s vice president of global consumer engagement. “Through our collaboration with Google, we are expanding our omnichannel efforts to go beyond stores and online to in-home,� she says. Calvin Klein has also jumped on the bandwagon collaborating with Amazon Fashion last month to launch Echo devices that aid shoppers in the dressing rooms of its pop-up shops in New York and Los Angeles. Marc Lore, CEO of Walmart’s e-commerce division, also sees the potential in using voice as a way to learn about customers while helping them shop. “Voice is the next big way for us to be able to leverage data from
a person’s car, home, or device,� he stated at Fast Company’s Innovation Festival in October. “It will allow [consumers] to shop in a very conversational way with a robot, in the same way they would with a specialist on a showroom floor of a retailer. And that robot will know you as well as your mom or dad.� While it’s only a matter of time before retailers of all tiers make the jump to voice technology shopping options, Michael Hazelden, senior vice president of product strategy at Order Dynamics, recommends a little caution before jumping in with a new technology. “There is much to learn and, before they take the plunge, retailers need to make sure they understand the technology, have the right framework in place and know what they want to accomplish by using it,� he says.
Mark Jeynes Launches Me+Henry
Pop Box Enables Subscription Services to Get Physical RETAIL ISN’T GOING cold turkey on brick-and-mortar concepts just yet. Pop Box, a pop-up format that opened in Chicago’s Lincoln Park neighborhood in late October, provided a showroom experience for subscription service suppliers during the holiday season. The idea being that such services lack a store setting where consumers can get to know the brands on a more touch-and-feel-before-you-buy level. Participating brands included Cooper & Kid ( boxes with projects for dads to do with their kids), Home Chef (a meal-delivery service), PupJoy (artisanal pet goods) and The RunnerBox (athletic gear), among others.
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“Pop Box is a solution for how people want to shop in today’s new retail reality,� says Anne-Marie Kovacs, cofounder. Kovacs says customers were drawn to the “artsy and airy� vibe of the store, full of unique indie product assortments that many purchased as a holiday gift, in addition to signing up for the correlating subscription service for future deliveries. “Many of these brands benefited from allowing us to help them tell their story,� she says, adding, “We have trained brand ambassadors that are knowledgeable about each product and can provide demonstrations—something you don’t get online.� Kovacs says to be on the lookout for more Pop Box concepts going forward.
WITH NEARLY 30 years of experience buying, designing and manufacturing childreswear at mainstays like Joules and JoJo Maman Bebe, Mark Jeynes is branching out on his own. Debuting this month at Children’s Club, Jeynes has launched Me+Henry as another collection supported by his new agency Little Monsters, which brings European names to the U.S. market. Jeynes chose to focus on boys’ apparel to help balance the girl-saturated market. “In all my years, I have heard and seen the constant comment about there not being enough good boys’ clothes,� he says. “Get a good boys’ collection and customers and stores stay loyal.� Setting it apart from other boys’ collections, Jeynes designed clothes he could see himself walking the streets of London in with his English cocker spaniel Henry, the line’s namesake. The aesthetic reflects a preppy attitude, inspired by classic 1930s silhouettes for an overall sophisticated-yetcool look. Available for newborns to age 10, the collection contains nearly 80 styles, ranging from $14 henleys and $16 polos to a variety of dress shirts in a range of sophisticated tones starting at $17. “I work with some amazing brands that really go for it with color, but for my own line I wanted to keep the color level as a more contemporary palette,� Jeynes says. “I am trying to make sure the line is just as good for those special occasions as it is running around in the garden.�
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Q&A Good Na t u re Lisa Huang, product line manager of Patagonia’s kids’ division, explains how the iconic outdoor company turns its eco-conscious, anti-corporate ideals into profit.
BY EMILY BECKMAN
SINCE ITS FOUNDING in 1973 by French-Canadian environmentalist and rock climber Yvon Chouinard, Patagonia has spent more than 40 years proving corporate responsibility is très chic. Decades before businesses embraced the green movement and other cause-related marketing initiatives, Patagonia’s maverick founder spearheaded campaigns to use eco-friendly materials in its outdoor clothing and pioneered sustainable manufacturing practices. Known as the first major clothier to make fleece jackets out of recycled bottles for children and adults, Patagonia continues to introduce eco-friendly initiatives out of its Ventura, CA-based, solar-powered headquarters. Of late, the company has been in the headlines as it, along with a coalition of environmental groups and Native American tribes, have entered a legal battle over President Donald Trump’s plan to reduce the size of two Utah national monuments. No matter who or the size of the foe, Patagonia has built its reputation on fighting for its eco-friendly and conservation principles. Along the way, it has developed a loyal following, spanning kids to adults and outdoor adventurers to city slickers. “I had always admired Patagonia for their environmental philoso-
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phy and knew I wanted to work for a company that stood behind its values,� says Lisa Huang, product line manager for Patagonia’s childrenswear. An executive at Patagonia now for nearly 14 years, Huang joined the company after working at one of its largest outdoor competitors for three years. She says that while plenty of brands educate consumers about environmental and social issues, Patagonia goes the extra mile by proving it can reform its customers’ behavior. “It’s necessary to protect and preserve the environment we love to play in for the next generation,� Huang says. “New generations are
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even more aware of the need to preserve resources and want to be engaged in change.” When it comes to working to preserve the environment, Patagonia means business—even at the possible expense of its own business. In 2011, the company rocked the fashion world with the ad campaign “Buy Less,” which urged consumers to avoid over-buying its apparel to address the rampant waste in the industry. Ironically, the plea spurred an increase in sales for the brand overall. The success, however, didn’t derail Patagonia from its mission. In 2017, after years of hosting pop-up events for its “Worn Wear” program that collects used Patagonia clothing for resale, the company took the concept a step further with the launch of a “Worn Wear” website. Consumers are able to purchase, trade and sell second-wear Patagonia products by taking a box of their clothes to a local company store for an appraisal. There, employees offer to wash and repair the used items for resale. “This simple act of extending the life of our garments through proper care, reuse and repair reduces the need to buy more over time,” Huang says, noting the conservation of CO2 emissions, waste output and water usage. While
“THIS IS NOT ABOUT POLITICS OR PARTISANSHIP– IT’S ABOUT STANDING UP FOR PLACES THAT BELONG TO FUTURE GENERATIONS.”
reselling is by no means a new concept in fashion, Huang says it’s rare for a company to embrace it as strongly as Patagonia. It’s also rare when a company debuts its firstever TV commercial that doesn’t pitch its products. Patagonia did just that last month. The one-minute spot, costing $700,000, primarily featured Patagonia’s founder discussing the needs to protect and cultivate America’s public lands in response to President Trump’s request to review 28 of America’s national monuments that may result in downsizing many of them. Chouinard states, “This is not about politics or partisanship—it’s about standing up for places that belong to future generations.” Huang believes Patagonia’s strong ethos is what makes the brand particularly attractive to today’s parents. In fact, its children’s division is a major contributor to the company’s nearly $1 billion in annual revenue. The kids’ merchandise is distributed worldwide in hundreds of retailers, from specialty outdoor to children’s boutiques to big box, as well as in more than 30 Patagonia flagships across the U.S. It’s one of the few brands that can span tiers without losing cachet. “Parents today
want to know the story behind a purchase, making sure their money is supporting a good cause,” Huang says, noting that Patagonia has donated 1 percent of its annual sales to hundreds of environmental organizations since 1985, partly as compensation for its impact on the environment. “Patagonia’s product durability, reparability and lifetime guarantee is a great value that keeps customers coming back,” she says. “Our customers know that we build our kids’ products with the same materials, construction and testing standards found in our adult line. Plus, we offer a lifetime guarantee, and will fix any product whenever possible through our ‘Worn Wear’ program.” Huang adds, “We always have our customers’ back, from product details to building a better tomorrow.” Who is the Patagonia Kids’ customer? Our customer is someone who has spent their life in the outdoors and now has a family. They want their children to come along on their adventures and to discover and develop their own love of the outdoors. They want quality and durable products that can be handed down and used by multiple kids.
SMALL TALK What sound do you love? A baby’s coo—makes me smile every time. What item in your closet gets the most wear? Jeans. What’s on your bucket list? I would love to visit Cuba. Where do you find inspiration? The peace and quiet of the outdoors. It always makes me feel renewed. What was your first paying job? A newspaper route.
What talent would you most like to have? To sing well. What is your favorite childhood memory? Carefree summers with my friends at the beach or pool. What animal would you want to be? Dolphin. The ocean is still so mysterious, so it would be amazing to see all that lies beneath. What brings you the greatest satisfaction? Helping others. There’s nothing more rewarding.
What are your best-selling styles of late? Our Hi-Loft Down Sweater Jackets in baby, boys’ and girls’. They are filled with 100-percent recycled down insulation, and the shell fabric is made from 100-percent recycled polyester. Our re-launched ski collection is also performing well of late. Those garments not only contain recycled materials that are tested to the same quality standards as our adult skiwear but have new features that make the product even better for the slopes like pass pockets, powder skirts, 100-percent seam-sealed waterproof protection and grow-fit extension for longer wear. What other eco-friendly materials are featured in the kids’ collection? We use recycled polyester and nylon, as well as organic cotton in many of our products. In addition, many of our offerings are produced in Fair Trade-certified sewing factories. However, just because
the products are environmentally friendly doesn’t mean we sacrifice fun elements like color and prints. What trends are you seeing for Fall ’18? Customers are not only looking for performance but features that provide value or style like reversibility, snap-off hoods and growth extension. For Fall ’18, we are introducing the B’s and G’s Tres 3-in-1 Parkas for kids. These are our most protective cold-weather winter outerwear for everyday use featuring classic styling. Overall, colors have become more sophisticated as kids want to look like mini-me versions of their parents—more browns and charcoal gray for boys and softer pinks and turquoise blues for girls. I also see more gender neutral offerings performing well, especially in families with multiple kids. Blues and grays are great for fulfilling those hand-me-down needs.
What effect has the mini-me trend had on your business? The mini-me trend has definitely helped drive our youth business. Matching seems to outweigh coordinating as the kids want the same best-selling styles and colors from our adult collection, but we do offer other options for those who prefer to coordinate. What’s changed most about the outdoor apparel industry over the last decade? Customer expectations have certainly shifted. Kids’ clothing is no longer an afterthought. Parents are better informed with higher standards and expectations. The overall outerwear industry has also come a long way in making more technical products for kids. The products are not just dumbed-down versions of what their parents wear but are of equal quality, using the same materials and construction but made to fit kids. Fun, on-trend colors and prints are also more prevalent. We have seasonal design themes that set the tone and direction, and the inspiration for the products comes from market travel mixed with our heritage that is rooted in timeless versatile design.
“CUSTOMER EXPECTATIONS HAVE CERTAINLY SHIFTED.KIDS’ CLOTHING IS NO LONGER AN AFTERTHOUGHT. ”
Do you conduct focus groups? No, just a lot of field testing. Product can be internally tested, where we have various employees with children use the product and provide feedback, or externally tested through our network of adult ambassadors and field testers who have children. Depending on the type of product and material, the tester could be an infant, toddler or youth. Their likes and dislikes, as well as any functional comments, are relayed to us through their parents. They tend to get creative with videos, photos and PowerPoints, which are always fun to read! Well, I suspect kids tell it like it is? Exactly. Kids are very tactile and will always tell us if a material is too stiff or crunchy, and if there is something scratching them like labels, thread or seams. Oftentimes, we get feedback that the child loved the product so much that they refused to take it off or will only wear that garment, dirty or not. What’s the most important quality of kids’ outerwear? Function. If it’s meant for snow/wet weather, it >39
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North East Judy Cohen 856-728-0841 NHC304@comcast.net
West Coast/Mid West Sylvia Gill Childrenswear - LA 213-622-8271 lashawroom@sylviagill.com
South East Glen Warnick 440-951-9739 gwarsales@aol.com
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North East Sonia Schneider 781-407-0050 sonia@finelinesshowroom.com
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North/Mid West Chicago Gallery 312-751-6800 Christy@Chicagogallery showroom.com International Finest For Baby Linda Gill 44(0)1442-248099
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The Perfect Gifts 6 Why personalized bundles, nostalgia-themed items and sustainable attributes are the leading gifting trends for 2018. By Emily Beckman IRTHDAYS, HOLIDAYS, BABY showers and other personal celebrations occur every day of every year, and it’s a retailer’s job to always be ready with the perfect gift. But with trends evolving faster than ever, it’s a mistake to assume the most popular gifts from last year will generate the same sell-through this year. Heck, the shift in popular gift items is moving month to month. “The customer today wants to be wowed at retail,� says Steve Starobinsky, vice president of marketing and product discovery at Diverse Marketing. “They crave discovery, and luckily, the customer doesn’t go to Amazon for newness anymore.� Rachel Glasson, owner of Twinkle Twinkle Little One in Chicago, agrees that although Amazon might be tough competition for necessities due to convenience and pricing, a customer shopping for a gift wants that special experience to avoid being stuck with the same item as 20 other shower
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guests. “My customers come to my store seeking something unique and different,� Glasson says. “They want to present a gift that is not bought off a shelf at a chain store, something selected with love and packaged showing that they cared to go the extra mile.� Sari Sloane, founder of Everafter with locations in New York and Greenvale, NY, says all three of her locations are curated to be a one-stop shop for customers, carrying everything from sequin pouches and pillows to Unicorn Snot and Squishems. “We have a designated area for ‘cool stuff’ in each store where we put all of our fun gifting items, so it makes it easy and fun to put together different pieces,� she says. This mix-and-match merchandising so shoppers can create unique “personalized bundles� has been dubbed the gifting go-to. “Sometimes the price point can seem daunting with preset gift items,� says Brittany Harrell, founder of Summer Place showroom in AmericasMart Atlanta. “By mixing and matching various size gifts to fit whatever budget the customer may have, stores have realized this generates more sales in the long
FROM PRODUCT TO PACKAGING, EVERYTHING HAS TO RESONATE. YAT E S H O O P E R , P R E S I D E N T A N D C E O, E L E G A N T B A BY
run.” Harrell says that retailers often visit the showroom looking for items that “tell a story” together. Although the customer who just wants to pop in for a baby blanket can do so, she says retailers should be equipped to upsell with coordinating burp cloths and bath towels. Coordinating small items can make a gift feel more complete than a purchase of one large (often more expensive) item. “I always ask my customer their price point, the age of the child and the gender, and in the case of a new baby, if it’s the parents’ first child,” Glasson says. “This helps me or my associates guide them in the right direction and not waste their time showing things that are outside the price range.” The boutique owner says gifting to go personalized bundles often bumps up the overall spend per customer. “Typically, a customer who is looking for a $30 gift tends to move toward the $50 gift and the $50 gift tends to move
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the need toward a $75 or $100 gift,” she says. Yates Hooper, president and CEO of Elegant Baby, agrees that personalized bundles are coming on strong for 2018, which led his brand to start experimenting with new packaging. For Spring ’18, it will offer special gift boxes for retailers to create their own customized Elegant Baby bundles to fit their customers’ specific needs. “From the product to the packaging, everything has to resonate,” Hooper says, “You need to be able to tap that emotional reaction.” Glasson admits to spending “a ridiculous amount of time” researching the perfect packaging when she launched her boutique. “My customers love that they walk out gift-giving ready,” she says.
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When it comes to wrapping a purchase, Glasson uses quality branded bags fit to be an actual gift bag, paired with unique gender neutral tissue with the option of gender-specific colored paper. And of course, the perfect gift isn’t complete without a ribbon to tie it all together. “We offer free gift enclosure cards but find that 25 to 30 percent of our customers prefer to purchase a nice greeting card for their gift,” Glasson says, adding that
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“WE OFFER FREE GIFT ENCLOSURE CARDS BUT FIND THAT 25 TO 30 PERCENT OF OUR CUSTOMERS PREFER TO PURCHASE A NICE GREETING CARD FOR THEIR GIFT.” R AC H E L G L A S S O N , OW N E R , TWINKLE TWINKLE LITTLE ONE
she put a card display at both registers which have generated a lot of sales. Lastly, before ringing up the final item, Glasson recommends making a last-minute pairing suggestion to add to the gift. “Even adding a cute book to a gift can add up to a lot of extra dollars spent,” she says. Retailers have to think of the store layout as profitability per square foot,” Starobinsky says. “Can this item drive more dollars at the end of the day in that same space?” For example, the most important gift topper item of 2017 were Pop Sockets, according to Starobinsky. It was the perfect item to stock by the register. “Every single retailer knows what those are and if not, they must not like money,” he says. Priced under $10, the colorful little knobs make smartphones easier to hold and watch videos on with the kickstand-like design. “Mobile seems to be an area looking for customization,” Starobinsky adds. “Tweens and teens aren’t satisfied with just a phone in a case anymore.” So what’s next? Starobinsky says Pop Sockets will continue as a good impulse buy, however the GloLens will be the new big item in 2018. The item makes taking selfies easier with the illuminating lens that captures photos at a wide angle. Retailing under $25, the GloLens comes in metallic colors, including the hot hue of the moment: rose gold, which matches with many smartphones. “The modern consumer isn’t interested in throwing money out,” Starobinsky says. “Especially with gifting, the product should provide a service or at least some sort of feeling—It has to evoke that connection.” Along those lines, experts say nostalgic gifts are one of the best way to create an emotional response. Retro gaming-inspired items, for example, are a great choice for appeasing Millennial parents. For the generation that grew up playing video games, old games is a way to connect with their kids. “Interestingly, kids
Iscream panda squishem
FCTRY lip gloss
Bumkins x Nintendo teether
don’t find retro graphics ugly or too simple,” Starobinsky says. “They’re actually attracted to them after being so overstimulated with today’s hyperreal modern content. Playing retro games with their parents is kind of cool.” With that, Starobinsky predicts this year’s release of Ready Player One, directed by Steven Spielberg, will be a crowd-pleaser based on its virtual reality world setting full of ’80s and ’90s nostalgia. “Not that retailers need to buy the movie, but that movie becomes an hour-and-a-half-long commercial of products for this generation,” he says. The Nintendo license has certainly enjoyed this boost of nostalgia, working with many children’s brands of late, including Bumkins popular line of Nintendo baby products including Game Boy teethers and controller-printed bibs—what Starobinsky describes as a “spot-on product.” Speaking of licensing, experts predict some turnover pretty soon in the preschool department. Paw Patrol, the current No. 1 license, seems to have leveled off in oversaturated mass market fashion. PJ Masks was another major license with a lot of hype out of the gate, but the sell-through is starting to wane. A potential
up-and-comer, Starobinsky predicts, is Rusty Rivets, a new cartoon series on Nickelodeon that features two friends, a boy and a girl, who love solving problems through DIY robotic creations. “Parents will love the educational value,” he says. “The show creates great exposure for STEM and DIY to the masses.” Toys from the show debuted at Toys “R” Us last fall with more products becoming available to a wider retail audience later this year. Randi Mohr, group show director for NY Now, the gift trade show at the Javits Center in New York next month, reports the show is noticing a gifting trend of products that resonates with consumers on a deeper level. “This February, attendees will see a focus on products that are not only functional but also eco-friendly and socially responsible,” she says, citing new exhibitor Elly Lu Organics’ line of whimsical toys that are made exclusively with organic and eco-friendly materials. Hevea USA will be another company at the show offering pacifiers and toys that are non-toxic and sustainable. Mohr also reports seeing an uptick in exhibitors showcasing meaningful and celebratory gift items. For example, Sweet Wink is a mother-daughter duo based in New York that manufactures clothing and accessories to celebrate life’s special moments. The Birthday Doll Company is another exhibitor that fosters an emotional connection to its products by creating timeless keepsakes that celebrate a child’s birthday year after year. Ellen Fruchtman, spokesperson for Mud Pie, agrees that being current on gifting trends is key, but making sure whatever item is stocked is photo-worthy is equally important. “Today’s moms live out loud on social media and every moment is a photo opportunity,” she says, noting
GloLens wide-angle illuminating lens
that picture frames, nursery décor, specialty dolls and plush are all making a comeback in the gifting market. Hooper wholeheartedly agrees: “If Mom can put it on Instagram, then oekÊh[ ]eeZ je ]e$È
TREND WATCH
Deep Purple THE 2018 COLOR of the year, per Pantone, the world-renowned authority on color, is Ultra Violet. The contemplative and existential hue “communicates originality, ingenuity and visionary thinking that points to the future,� according to company officials. Ultra Violet evokes the mysteries of the cosmos, the intrigue of what lies ahead and the discoveries where we are now, says Laurie Pressman, vice president of the Pantone Color Institute. Historically, enigmatic purples have been associated with mindfulness practices, reportedly offering a higher ground to those seeking refuge from over-stimulation. The hues are also known to be symbolic of counterculture, unconventionality and artistic brilliance. Musical icons Prince, David Bowie and Jimi Hendrix brought shades of Ultra Violet to the forefront of Western pop culture as personal expressions of individuality. “Ultra Violet is a versatile color, taking on distinct personalities when applied to different materials and pieces of apparel,� Pressman says, noting that the color should play a strong role in children’s fashion this year for both boys and girls. “A gender-neutral shade, this blue-based purple lends itself to unique color combinations, allowing parents and children to play around with pairings and help build personality through style,� she says. Pressman expects the dramatic shade to manifest itself across children’s play-ready wear to dress-up attire. “Children wanting to feel more sophisticated will appreciate the color in luxe fabrics such as velvet, while those looking for a more playful, active feel will take to the color in sneakers and T-shirts,� she says. —Emily Beckman
Nicky Hilton x Tolani dress
Bows Arts bow
Lanoosh dress
Huggalugs leg warmers
Chooze backpack
SG Companies Hatchimals slipper
OMG Accessories mini backpack
Bearpaw boot
Easy Peasy clutch
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CPC Childrenswear jacket Parkland backpack
Innobaby teether
Me Oui hair clip
Pediped high-top sneaker
Molo T-shirt
Tokidoki x ZoLi insulated beverage and food containers
Native slip-on
The Doll Kind doll
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Mack & Co. floral coat, We Love Colors tights, shoes by Vince Camuto, Mademoiselle Ă Soho pom-pom beanie.
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THE ELEMENTS OF STYLE Textured layering is on the radar for Fall ’18. The forecast calls for urban details like camo prints, dyed furs, a stormy palette and oversized knits. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZOE ADLERSBERG ST YLING BY MARIAH WALKER
Manière faux fur hat, Nike jacket. Opposite page: S. Rothschild & Co. camouflage parka, Mademoiselle à Soho knit scarf. 27
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Tree graphic jacket by Deux Par Deux, Izipizi sunglasses.
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Western Chief camouflage raincoat and rain boots, Appaman floral jacket, pants by Lanoosh, Boboli beanie. Opposite page: Levi’s color block jacket and shorts, Converse star hoodie, Terez leggings. 31
Sunday Afternoons cap, Mademoiselle Ă Soho wool coat and top, Bella Bliss gingham jacket, Egg by Susan Lazar pants, Florsheim oxfords. Opposite page: Izipizi glasses, Appaman suit, shirt, gilet and coat.
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Mademoiselle Ă Soho knit poncho, AG Kids jacket, Puma track pants and jersey dress, Sunday Afternoons hat. Opposite page: Hurley windbreaker, We Love Colors turtleneck, Limeapple jacket. Hair and makeup: Konstanze Zeller; Props: Pili Weeber; Assistant stylist: Enid Hunt. 35
H AU T E TOPICS
EDITOR’S PICKS Milk & Biscuits
Innobaby
DESIGNER CHAT A N N E H A R P E R • O M G AC C E S S O R I E S
BEFORE BECOMING FOUNDER and head designer of OMG Accessories, Chicago native Anne Harper worked at an upscale barbeque restaurant while studying fashion design at Columbia College Chicago. During her day job, she often chatted with the regulars—casual connections that would one day change her life. Here’s how the story goes: After earning her degree in 2002, Harper started out as an apprentice with Fashion Express, where she honed her talents as an accessories designer. She had a knack for spotting the latest trends, and the company’s sales subsequently took off. “That’s when I became curious about what it would be like to go off on my own,” she says, noting the encouragement from restaurant regulars, several who were experienced entrepreneurs who gave her the confidence and financial backing to launch her own company in 2009. “I raised $100,000 in startup capital from the restaurant’s customers,” she says. “Everyone was so supportive that I’d found my niche in the accessories world.” The young designer quickly outgrew her apartment office/warehouse as she landed accounts from Nordstrom, Macy’s and Von Maur, as well as leading specialty boutiques like Francesca’s Collection and Charlotte Russe. Sales took off, and Harper had to make sure OMG could keep pace. “I ultimately found another business partner, Jerry Putnam, who helped me take it to the next level with more financial backing,” she says. OMG Accessories is now found in more than 100 retailers nationwide, offering fashion-forward accessories from glittery wallets and colorful cosmetic bags to friendly-faced fanny packs
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Farmer Chip
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Farm Fresh Designers harvest agricultural inspiration for Fall ’18.
and studded mini backpacks. (Suggested retail prices range from $15 coin purses to $38 mini backpacks.) The brand’s target customer is a contemporary, savvy girl/woman from age 7 to 22. “She’s young yet understands trends and is drawn to items that are unique, kitschy, fun and exciting,” Harper says. —Emily Beckman How often do you come out with new collections? It’s a constant development process. We have weekly meetings where we recap what’s happening at retail and then discuss new prints, colors and fabrics to work on. I can’t stress enough how important it is to listen to the customer because preferences can change from week to week. That’s why I don’t like to buy too deep. We always want to be ready with something different and special. It gives people a reason to keep buying.
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Where do you look for design inspiration? I try to not focus too much on what other people are doing. It’s more about analyzing what’s working in our own collection. When you look at too much stuff, you start to mimic it. What are some hot accessories right now? Mini backpacks were big last year, and I expect that they will continue to grow in popularity this year. Everyone has their phone in their hand, so no one has time to hold a bag anymore. Our mini backpack designs with glitter pockets or anything fun and sparkly have performed well. In general, we make our accessories look different from the rest to give the consumer a reason to buy. Our whimsical and unique personality has been beneficial. When retail is bad, everyone goes back to basics, which makes OMG Accessories that much more eye-catching. We never want to be the plain black, crossbody backpack every tween owns. From glittery unicorns to holographic materials, we’re constantly evolving our product with more personality and creativity.
“EVERYONE HAS THEIR PHONE IN THEIR HAND, SO NO ONE HAS TIME TO HOLD A BAG ANYMORE. �
Otherwise it’s just a backpack, right? Yes. We recently introduced a mini backpack for dogs inspired by my French bulldog, Louie. Now he carries his own poop bags in style! At the end of the day, success comes from being innovative.
Who are some designers you admire? Gucci has certainly made a terrific comeback. Same with Fendi. It’s amazing how all it takes is one big transition to go from a sophisticated, non-attainable brand to a rejuvenated, interactive experience. What’s the greatest challenge facing your business? Not knowing when a trend shift is happening and offering what people don’t want anymore. Figuring out how to infuse change without tarnishing the overall brand aesthetic is also a challenge. Lastly, it’s an ongoing challenge to maximize everything we do to further growth. My goal is to gain more financial backing, so we can introduce new categories down the road. I want to make OMG’s fun style at affordable prices known throughout the market.
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HOT PROPERTIES
Little Me to Make a Splash with Rashti & Rashti LITTLE ME HAS signed a licensing agreement with Rashti & Rashti for a line of bedding and bath products slated to hit stores for Fall ’18. Retailing between $14 and $32, the new line includes swaddles, plush security blankets, bath towels, washcloths and molded bath toys. Each offering reflects the classic Little Me aesthetic, including its signature prints like baby leopards, vintage roses and tiny dinos. Rashti & Rashti’s strong reputation made it an easy decision for Little Me, according to Robert Reda of Redasign Studio, Little Me’s licensing agent. “Little
Me sought a partner that would dedicate its efforts to producing a beautiful, quality product,� he says, adding, “As the licensing program grows, we feel that blankets and soft bath are two important categories.� “We are proud to be aligned with a brand that offers quality, comfort and unique products that celebrate the magic of childhood,� says Charlotte Rashti, president of Rashti & Rashti. “Our collection of bedding, bath and select plush toys are designed to capture the essence of what makes the Little Me brand a favorite of moms and gift-givers.�
Skechers Teams with Amerex Group SKECHERS IS MAKING the leap from shoes to outerwear in a deal with Amerex Group. The collection spans the whole family, featuring a range of bombers, snowsuits and bubble jackets. The goal is trendy yet affordable, says David Meltzer, executive vice president of sales for Amerex Group. “The family outerwear and swim brand is driven by color and prints with added value in features and benefits,� Meltzer says. “We are building a new showroom and will be previewed in January market for a Fall ’18 launch.� Available in sizes newborn to 16, the collection combines style and function, led by bright colors, foil accents, metallic details and classic prints like stars and stripes. The collection will retail for $14 to $25.
Must See: Cotton Babies’ Little House on the Prairie Line COTTON BABIES, KNOWN for its bumGenius cloth diapers, has inked a deal with Little House on the Prairie just in time for author Laura Ingalls Wilder’s 150th birthday. The Little House in the Big Woods collection features three prints inspired by Wilder and the books she wrote about her pioneer-days childhood. Available in all bumGenius styles and accessories, the trio of prints encompass the spirit of the series’ first book and feature original artwork created by Cotton Babies.
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Prints include the Ingalls’ family cabin surrounded by evergreen and maple trees, a patchwork print of an 1870s-era starry quilt pattern that mimics quilts made by Laura and her sister and a prairie flowers print of pink and orange florals on a red calico background reminiscent of Wilder’s iconic dress and bonnet. The Little House in the Big Woods collection, retailing from $9.95 to $39.95, is currently available at www.cottonbabies.com and select boutiques worldwide.
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must be waterproof. If it’s meant for warmth, it must have the right amount of insulation. We approach the fabric choice, aesthetic and styling for products used in a warmer year-round climate differently to those used in places with significant seasonal weather. In terms of function, what are the critical needs for each age group? From infant to child, design needs are primarily based on the stages of mobility. For infants, we have an organic layette collection and buntings that range from fleece to down insulation. These styles must be comfortable and easy for parents to take on and off for diaper changes. Also, no hardware can be near the baby’s face. And for those learning to crawl and walk, grippers must be included on any foot-covered styles.
“I’VE BEEN GIVEN A LOT OF ADVICE, BUT IT’S LIFE’S EXPERIENCES THAT I’VE LEARNED FROM THE MOST. �
How about toddlers? They are now walking and playing, so we include pockets for them to put their found treasures and keep their hands warm. The zipper pulls need to be big enough or have webbing as the child is just learning to zip their own jacket. The colors for this age group are typically brighter and more playful with lots of fun prints.
And kids? For big kids, the purchasing decision starts to move away from the parent to the child. They want to look less like their younger siblings and more like peers and adults. Boys like darker, more masculine colors and girls want to look more sophisticated yet still feminine. While we stay true to our heritage and the outdoors, these styles need to reflect market trends in terms of length, shape and styling more. What’s the best business advice you’ve ever received? I’ve been given a lot of advice, but it’s life’s experiences that I’ve learned from most. What do you love most about your job? There are many rewarding aspects of my job and our company, but specific to my everyday responsibilities, I would say the proto fittings. No matter what kind of work week I may have, the children are adorable and we always end up leaving with a ic_b[ WdZ W ]eeZ bWk]^$ š
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W H A T ’S S E L L I N G
halibut. “In Alaskan culture, fish cheeks are a delicacy,� Blanchett says. But it’s more than exclusive items that keep parents and grandparents flocking back to Tiny Ptarmigan. Since opening, Blanchett has steadfastly taken suggestions from customers to constantly improve the shopping experience, service and selection—upward of 50 percent of the merchandise is customer-recommended. “Someone will tell us about this great line, and I try my best to bring it in within a couple of weeks,� she says. “If one person asks, chances are there are 10 other people looking who don’t say anything and walk out the door.� —Aleda Johnson What are some of your top-selling brands? We sell a lot of Columbia. I like the technical innovations of their products, while still being affordable. Stonz is our primary outdoor footwear brand. In fact, I consider them our Canadian ‘appendage company’ because they make great boots and gloves. In terms of waterwear for the summer months, Tuffo’s Muddy Buddy sells well. It’s a great one-piece rain suit. We also do great with Swedish wool wear from Woolpower and Hocosa.
Tiny Ptarmigan Anchorage, AK
R
UNNING A BOUTIQUE on America’s last frontier demands more than just stylish duds. Function is key, according to Lauren Blanchett, owner of Tiny Ptarmigan. Opened in midtown Anchorage in 2014, the 1,700-square-foot children’s boutique was originally built to corner the kids’ outerwear market—the store’s namesake is the Alaskan state game bird indigenous to tundra and subarctic regions. Along the way, it has become a one-stop shopping destination for essential juvenile gear and clothing that prioritizes safety, quality and style. “There were stores in Anchorage for baby gifts, but nothing to carry you through the years besides big national chains,� Blanchett says, noting how many local stores had closed and consequently provided an opportunity. “Today we serve the Alaskan family looking for products that are well-made and suit the native child’s lifestyle,� she adds. With a typical winter day being short on sunlight (January sunrises to sunsets are a mere six hours or so) and temps averaging in the teens, outerwear, wool stockings, long underwear and boots are popular items at Tiny Ptarmigan. Even when Anchorage warms to the 70s during the summer, there’s still a demand for cold-weather items as many families enjoy nearby camping where nighttime temperatures can dip into the 40s. In fact, Blanchett says her boutique is designed to emulate the warm, comforting nest of the ptarmigan. It holds a flock of cozy outerwear, mittens, boots and snow gear displays from heavyweights like Columbia, Mayoral and Stonz. Blanchett also carries several local labels, like handmade baby blankets and screen-printed one-pieces from Alaska Wild Child, as well as Sweet Cheeks, a popular brand with many of its designs featuring fish motifs such as the locally sourced
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How about cold-weather accessories? I sell so many wool socks year-round from Woolpower and Hocosa because they’re washable, and you can never have too many. Gloves, of course, are another popular category, but overall hats are the bane of my existence. There are so many tech products when it comes to feet and hands, but good headwear is hard to find. How’s business of late? Our market is unique. We’ve felt the pinch of online retail, but we’re in an oil-based economy here, so we’re in recession mode. Everyone is doing what they can to keep their customers happy. Our local focus, ability to listen to suggestions and provide product quickly is what keeps our business going. Although I hear how sales are down for many other retailers, I’m very thankful we continue to grow every year. What is the biggest challenge facing your store right now? Shipping to Alaska is a constant battle. I have to specify how brands ship to us, and I don’t carry some lines because the freight costs are ridiculous. I’m very involved in the logistics of how vendors provide us with goods, which is something retailers in the Lower 48 don’t have to deal with. That’s why it’s always nice to sell local and Canadian brands to save costs. What’s the smartest business move you’ve made recently? I’m most proud of how I respond to customers. Every special order, every product recommendation, every comment on Facebook—I respond to everything. We have a reputation in town for being attentive. Everyone gets a call back. Where do you hope to see Tiny Ptarmigan in five years? Open (laughs). I see us still around, and that makes me happy because there’s a segment that appears in our local paper called “Open and Shut,� which reports on new businesses and closings. I don’t want to make that list. While it’s been a tough ride sometimes, I try to hone in on what works best and enjoy any growth that follows.
CHILDREN’S CLUB
New York City January 7-9 CHILDREN’S CLUB
Magic February 12-14
Corporate Mark Zelen 212-216-6125 1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018
CHILDREN’S CLUB
New York City February 25-28
Caribbean/ Latin America/ South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-599-8717 International Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008 Mid Atlantic Mark Wolbransky 215-364-7906 Midwest Al Zaiff 847-607-8543 North East Bill and Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999 South East Richard Rubin 404-577-4383 Texas/South West Annette Cardona-Stein 214-403-7464 West Coast Teresa Stephen 213-623-8155 Western Canada Jeff Swartz 604-681-1719
CLOTHING FOR THEIR LITTLE WORLD