Earnshaw's | January 2019 by Wainscot Media

2019 $10.00

Featuring Luxeâ&#x201E;¢ Diamond Baby Blanket in Silver Shipping January 2019

JANUARY 2019 CONTENTS

F EATURES

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor

8 Warm Regards Suzanne Schwartz, CEO of SAM, applies decades of fashion experience to hot looks for cold weather.

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor

18 2019 Gift Guide A little extra fun for tots and tweens.

Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor

24 Color Theory Outerwear trends for Fall ’19 span high-sheen puffers, faux fur and fleece across a spectrum of brights.

ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster

DEPARTMEN TS

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director

4 Editor’s Note 6 Scene & Heard

CORPORATE Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018 Lee Zapis, CEO Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

14 Note to My Younger Self 16 Trend Watch 34 Haute Topics

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher

36 Behind the Seams 38 What’s Selling 40 Final Cut

Greg Dutter Editorial Director PAGE

9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

On cover: Liam wears rainbow down jacket by Molo, T-shirt by Chalk of the Town, Nike shorts, Sofi leggings, stylist’s own headband, printed shorts by Nike, Puma socks and Pop Shoes sneakers. Photography by Mark Andrew/ The Garden Party; styling and concept by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; hair and makeup by Laura Mitchell on hair for Oribe and makeup for @kohgendoh; set design by Alexandra Egan; styling assistance by Enid Hunt.

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com

This page: Olivia wears teal coat by Patagonia, Joules sleeveless vest and pants, stylist’s own headband and True Religion pink half zip.

Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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1/2/19 1:37 PM

ELEVATED LIFESTYLE COLLECTIONS FOR CHILDREN

Children’s Club is an international exhibition featuring every category of children’s clothing from newborn to tween, layette items, fashion accessories, footwear, toys and gifts. Exhibiting brands reflect an eclectic base of established collections and new designers bursting onto the scene. Children’s Club is an excellent opportunity to be seen by the medium to better children’s specialty retailers and boutiques.

NEW YORK CITY JANUARY 6-8, 2019 I MARCH 3-5, 2019 I AUGUST 4-6, 2019

LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 5-7, 2019 I AUGUST 2019

UBMFASHION.COM

EDITOR’S NOTE

The Deep Retail State

AN YOU BELIEVE it’s 2019? Welcome to the future. While our closets aren’t full of chrome spacesuits (the metallic puffer coat trend is darn close) and we aren’t hopping on regular Space X flights to visit the relatives on Mars (yet), lots of today’s tech—in the form of data mining and analytics—is more advanced than the sci-fi films of my not-so-distant youth. These days, wholesalers and retailers can go deep on consumers, harvesting demographic and behavioral data about their shopping habits, product preferences and post-purchase sentiments. Machine learning enables them to collectively know consumers better than they know themselves, which is intriguing—albeit a bit creepy—just like any good sci-fi flick. Every customer with a smartphone (and that’s nearly everyone these days) is a walking, talking, web surfing trove of data. Likes, searches, purchases and page views all leave a breadcrumb trail for marketers straight to the minds and wallets of millions. Emotional data, eye-tracking and face recognition are some of the latest consumer tracking upgrades being introduced in the never-ending quest to transform data into dollars. Even consumers’ evolving Google search language is adding to marketers’ data mining capabilities as it becomes increasingly personalized. Google data shows searches for “should I” and “do I need” have jumped 65 percent in the past two years; searches for “can I” are up 85 percent. Despite privacy concerns, this intense personalization phenomenon, better known as “deep retail,” is likely here to stay. In fact, many consumers expect brands and retailers to offer goods tailored to their tastes and needs. Research shows over half of consumers now expect to receive a personalized discount within 24 hours of making themselves known to a brand, and an even larger percentage express frustration at impersonal shopping experiences. These days it’s all about the seamless transaction, and that’s not just fulfilling late-night cravings at the tap of the smartphone or a quick command to a voice-controlled device. Technology today is helping to eliminate shopping friction, so consumers have little reason to leave the house. But despite enormous strides in this area, the conversion rate for online shopping remains at just 3 to 4 percent. The conversion rate of consumers who venture into a physical store? A whopping 35 percent! You don’t have to be a data analyst to know that equates to enormous opportunity for traditional retailers. From smart mirrors at Neiman Marcus to experiential services like manicure bars

(DSW), personal stylists (Nordstrom), juice bars (Adidas), floor pianos and human toy soldiers (FAO Schwarz), and “S’mores and Santa” and “Beer and Bacon” in-store events at Yellow Turtle in Stowe, VT (What’s Selling, p. 38), there are countless ways to draw shoppers across the threshold. The initial shock and fear caused by this epic retail shakeout is quickly being replaced by an age of re-imagination and renewal. This is a time of great retail rebirth—seeing ideas leap from the planning phase into reality. Now it’s about which concepts and formats might have legs—and that sure beats keeping tabs on who failed and why. Besides, we know why: too much overhead, too little service and selection, stale décor and outmoded formats were a recipe for failure. I welcome this retail revivalist period. In the meantime, some business basics remain as relevant as ever. For example, knowing which brands have the best margins and what categories have the best sell-through is common sense but critical. Yet it’s surprising how many retailers don’t know. It starts with having a detailed open-to-buy plan and sticking to it. Put 80 percent of the budget into brands with strong margins and earmark the remainder for new brands and/or categories. You can achieve the same profit by selling $200,000 at a 50 percent margin as you can by selling $250,000 at a 40 percent margin. The difference is an extra $25,000, useable for fixed costs, salaries, advertising, data harvesting, etc. It’s amazing how a simple approach can boost a bottom line. Another rule of thumb: Find a niche, focus and stick to it. A curated and personalized shopping experience represents the only viable alternative to the “everything store,” a.k.a. Amazon. Suzanne Schwartz, chief creative officer of luxury outerwear maker SAM and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 8), reveals how the company’s “stay in your lane” approach has enabled it to grow steadily and profitably over the past decade. And she foresees plenty of growth ahead—in outerwear. Schwartz and her husband (Andrew) know of what they speak: They’re the founders of Andrew Marc outerwear. The story of the empty nesters’ second rodeo is a good read. On that note, here’s to a year of inspiring stories about those boldly going where no childrenswear businesses have gone before. They’re rising to meet the challenges of today and tomorrow. They represent new frontiers in our industry. To borrow a famous sci-fi slogan, may they live long and prosper. We here at Earnshaw’s are honored to share their stories, just as we have for more than 100 years.

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

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SC E N E & H E A R D 2 0 1 9 R E TA I L RESOLUTIONS

Superdry Sets to Fly

SUPERDRY IS BUILDING on its heritage of quality and value by launching Superdry Kids for Fall ’19. The global digital brand is diving into the market with a collection of clothing and accessories for boys and girls, sizes 6 to 12 years old. “We believe there’s a huge opportunity for

us in entering the kidswear market,” says Paula Kerrigan, director of strategy. “We know our existing customers want to see us offering Superdry Kids, and we believe this also offers a real opportunity to bring new consumers to our exciting brand.” The first collection features about 200 pieces, spanning jackets, polos, joggers, dresses and leggings, designed using detailed analysis of what consumers want. The brand found that older children already access it through smaller adult sizes and that internet searches show significant demand for kidswear from the existing customer base. “We’re going to design and produce contemporary, comfortable and stylish clothes for the coolest kids and embed the Superdry brand as a way of life for everyone in families around the world,” says Laura Dugdale, head of Superdry Kids. The range will be sold online and in Superdry stores as well as distributed through select wholesale channels. As the line evolves, the company is considering selling in franchise, pop-up shops and shop-in-shops formats. “We’ll disrupt the kidswear market by relentlessly innovating product while offering Superdry’s exceptional quality, design detail and value,” Kerrigan says.

“Bring back the wonderment of toys and deep nostalgia FAO Schwarz has offered to parents and children for over 150 years.” DAVID CONN, CEO OF THREESIXTY BRANDS, OWNER OF FAO SCHWARZ

“Refine the connection with our clients, learn more about their businesses and develop programs to help them grow.” ADAM HERMAN, COUNTRY DIRECTOR U.S. AND CANADA OF MAYORAL

“Close Amazon.” STEVE SCHWARTZ, OWNER OF BALLERINAS & BRUISERS

“Increase sales, especially in baby and toys. With Toys ‘R’ Us closing, we have new opportunities to bring people in.” TRACEY DAVIDOW, MANAGER AND SENIOR BUYER OF YELLOW TURTLE

Sizing Up CARTER’S, THE LONGTIME leader in baby and toddler sizes, is getting bigger—literally— with the launch of Carter’s KID. The line, which debuted this back-to-school season, is designed for boys and girls sizes 4 to 14, extending Carter’s reach in the market to include kids size 10 to 14. “We’re committed to being with families throughout the journey of parenthood, and that goes far beyond first steps and bodysuits,” says Kendra Krugman, executive vice president

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of Carter’s brands and licensing. “Parents tell us directly that they love our brand and are looking for opportunities to continue shopping with us as their children grow. These insights became the catalyst for the collection.” There’s plenty of options with more than 700 layered and mix-and-match styles, including bright leggings, comfortable joggers and graphic tees that feature everything kids love like sushi, video games and puppies. “Clothing made for mixing and matching gives older kids the freedom to explore and express their personal styles,” Krugman says, adding that Carter’s KID embraces themes inspired by the humor, activities and trends of kids in that age range. Think sequins on graphic tees and empowering messaging for girls, and gaming motifs for boys. “We designed the line thinking about what kids at this age love to do, encouraging them to embrace their individuality and to have fun putting together their own style,” Krugman adds. “Comfortable, fun garments keep kids happy, while we keep in mind that comfort, quality and value (pieces are priced as low as $5) are important to mom and dad.”

“Continue growing our international relationships and making customer service our number-one priority.” KIM PERRIN, SALES AND MARKETING DIRECTOR OF ANGEL DEAR

“Add lots of newness to our inventory.” EMILY TOBIN, CO-OWNER OF HOPSCOTCH CHILDREN’S STORE

“Bring back the basics that deter customers from going to big box stores.” BRANDY BROWN, OWNER OF ROCK-A-BYE BABY

“Collaborate more with new designers.” JENNY AN, OWNER OF EGGY

#18

February 10-12 Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building

200 collections Fashion & Lifestyle

FOR PROFESSIONALS ONLY

illustration Xaviera Altena

The top trade show for American & international children’s brands

PREMIER TRADE SHOWS FOR KID’S FASHION & LIFESTYLE

ONLINE • PARIS • NEW YORK • TOKYO www.iloveplaytime.com

Q&A Warm Regards Suzanne Schwartz, CEO of SAM, applies decades of fashion experience to hot looks for cold weather. BY EMILY BECKMAN

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you in,” she says. “Nobody necessarily knows where you live or what car you drive, so the jacket you walk out of the house in is your chance to make a statement.” Offering styles for babies to tweens, SAM is trusted by parents as a trendy option that never sacrifices warmth. “Even if it comes out on the higher end of their budget, parents will simply size up in order to get an extra season out of it,” Schwartz says. “We’re known for having quality that matches the price tag.” From the very beginning, Schwartz always had a place for the childrenswear industry in her business heart. Her first paying job in high

DROP IN ON luxury outerwear brand SAM’s annual holiday party, and you’ll find Suzanne Schwartz raising a glass next to her husband and high school sweetheart, Andrew Marc Schwartz, chief executive officer and former owner of fashion label Andrew Marc. “Here’s to our SAM-ily,” the Schwartzes conclude their toast each year before a devoted staff of nearly 20 outerwear industry veterans. “Sure, it’s a little hokey,” Suzanne Schwartz admits with a laugh. “But it’s true! Our small team has an authentic, homey feel that couldn’t be more like family.” Built on the premise of everyday utility contrasted with alpineinspired luxury, the New York-based outerwear company is approaching nine years of serving customers fond of its urban and outdoor styles. Designed with resilient, high-performance materials such as neoprene, 3M Thinsulate padding, lacquered nylons and fur, all styles are windresistant and water-repellent for everyday practicality with most pieces crafted from a resin-coated Egyptian cotton for year-round function. “The outerwear category is something people have always been willing to invest in,” Schwartz says, noting SAM’s kids’ styles range from $150 vests to $550 puffers. “Think of it as outer armor—what everyone sees

school was at kids’ boutique Peanut Butter near where she grew up on that stretches back decades and two companies. It’s hard enough to build Long Island. “I loved everything about working there,” she says, recalling one successful company, let alone two in what are completely different the elaborate window displays she designed each season and the many retail eras. But when you stick to what you’re good at, stay focused and customers she befriended. Schwartz attributes that experience to sparking maintain standards in product, people and policy, good things tend to her interest to work in the fashion industry. High school also marked when happen. That’s the SAM recipe, and Schwartz sees little reason to tinker she met her husband and future business partner, dating him throughout with it. So don’t expect a SAM jewelry or swimwear collection any time college before getting married at age 22. Schwartz pursued her interest soon. “A focused product creates the strongest brand identity,” Schwartz in fashion with a degree in marketing from New York University, first says. “Success comes from staying in your lane and being the full package working in the city at a children’s showroom before joining her husband for whatever you do best.” two years later at his own luxury fashion label, Andrew Marc, in 1981. Appointed as the senior vice president and creative director, Schwartz Is it easier to manage an outwear business in today’s retail climate learned to juggle the many responsibilities around design and sales. “The than back in your Andrew Marc days? combination of being creative and creating product that people want to Oh, I think it’s definitely easier today. It’s simpler because the Internet buy is very motivating,” she says, adding that provides a much quicker ramp up to achieving she’s always thrived off New York’s cutthroat brand awareness. That’s the main difference. fashion culture. “I never saw myself as a very Years ago, you would got brand awareness competitive person, but in this environment, through stores you sold as well as advertising SMALL TALK I want to win—New York is just that kind of on billboards and in magazines. It was a slower place. Once you’re in it, you’re in it.” process and very expensive. But we did both Last book: Michelle Obama’s biography, After a successful run, the Schwartzes because back then there was no alternative. Becoming. sold Andrew Marc at the end of 2005. The Now when stores do a test unit, they usually Must-see TV: The new series “Dirty John” couple enjoyed the hiatus for a few years, put it online first, so it’s immediately visible on Bravo. however the urge to start another business to customers nationwide, even worldwide. crept into the picture once their youngest The feedback can be phenomenal. Best purchase of 2018: My second daughter went to college. The couple moved dog—another Golden Retriever. back to Manhattan and prepped for the next Has the ease of introducing a brand made Favorite hobbies: Anything outdoors— chapter. “We pretty much picked up where the playing field overly crowded? walking in the park, yoga, skiing. I also we left off—same approach with the same Yes, that’s the negative side of anyone being love cooking healthy dishes. high-end aesthetic,” Schwartz says. “The void able to start a business in five seconds. While Personal motto: Follow your passion. was there, and we were more than capable it’s very easy to get into business, it comes of filling it.” And that’s exactly what they’ve down to being able to rely on the product Three items you can’t live without: My done since launching SAM in 2008. The brand to sell itself. If it’s a unique design, of good dogs, my phone and lots of water. has grown steadily each year, and is now quality and a fair price, the product can carry Dream skill: Speaking many languages. stocked nationwide in specialty boutiques itself online. New is new, but the reliability and department stores. The company added of a superior product is what creates stayFavorite sound: Nature. I rarely turn on the radio when I drive. children’s styles in 2014, which has turned ing power in today’s market. You have to be out to be a profitable brand extension. “We consistent and be good season after season. Personal style: Simple and clean. did very little with kids’ styles at Andrew Marc,” Schwartz says. “It was really my prior How does SAM stand out from the experiences in the children’s industry that competition? helped shape our kids’ collection at SAM.” Being stylish without being outlandish. As a For Fall ’19, Schwartz expects children’s puffer coats of all different sophisticated company based in New York, we understand modern, cleanshapes and silhouettes to perform well, citing faux fur trims to be popular line designs with an underpinning of functionality. Put it all together, and in addition to fabrications with lots of shine. “I’m talking glossy to super there’s a luxury element that shines through in the outerwear market. glossy to satin-type looks,” she says. Velvet also looks to have legs next season and prints are on the radar, from metallic stars to plaid. Beyond Where do you look for design inspiration? being on-trend, Schwartz attributes the brand’s superior fit as a leading All over the place! And it changes all the time. Honestly, I don’t think factor to its success. “It’s hard to make a puffer attractive, but we’ve anyone or anything retains importance for too long these days. Everything mastered outerwear silhouettes that have great balance on the body,” moves so quickly. Somebody might see a celebrity on the red carpet and she says. “A coat should never look like it’s swallowing a child.” think they’re influential. Then, the next day, somebody in the business To date, SAM has generated most of its growth organically. “Our expoworld is making headlines as being influential. Before you know it, a movie sure has been mostly word of mouth,” Schwartz confirms, adding that star is the next must-watch style icon. It’s a moving target more than ever. the company stopped exhibiting at trade shows years ago and only has one showroom located in the Meatpacking District. “It’s really been a So how do you keep up? natural process,” she adds. That includes no social media campaigns, paid I don’t, and that’s okay. I try not to study anything specific and just take influencers or public relations efforts. “The product has done an amazlife in as a whole. I design what I would like to wear myself. Basically, ing job selling itself,” Schwartz says. Of course, a key component of that whatever feels right at the time goes into production. Then I just hope success stems from the Schwartzes successful track record in outerwear it translates to whoever wants to come along for the ride.

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COME SEE WHATĘźS NEW!

Please contact Kim Perrin at kim@angeldear.net to make an appointment to view our Fall 19 collection

Was it easy to translate SAM’s adult aesthetic into kids’ styles? Definitely! We already use a lot of fun colors that resonate well with kids. It also helps that the children’s industry is getting more and more sophisticated, so now whatever styles Mom and Dad have the kids are bound to want. That was even starting to happen when I worked at the children’s boutique decades ago. How so? Well, back then, I remember being shocked by kids starting to wear black. That was very taboo at the time, but it was a fashion trend for adults at the time. Today, most children’s styles are takedowns from adults. Everything is simulated for kids, from the top brands down. Say hello to Gucci sneakers for infants! You name it, and there’s probably a miniaturized version either out now or in the works. Would you say there’s increasing demand for kids’ luxury outerwear? There’s a bit of an uptick. I’d say puffers are getting more attention as a trend, but luxury outerwear in general has always been a necessity to many parents. Most understand that it’s worth the investment for a piece that will be worn every day that must keep the child warm. This year also saw momentum due to the earlier start to winter, which helped across the outerwear spectrum.

How was business in 2018? Great! We’ve had very steady growth across our accounts along with positive direct feedback from customers. Some say last year was tumultuous for retail, but personally we didn’t feel it. I owe it to the beautiful products and superior customer service. What exactly does superior customer service entail? Fast and convenient communication! When it comes to wholesale, our sales team deals directly with customer service. It’s just not effective to have it passed to someone else. A salesperson should know everything about the wholesale customer, and it’s best when they follow-through 100 percent. On the direct-to-consumer (DTC) side, it’s a little different because there is so much to keep up with, so we have a separate team to field consumer-driven questions and issues.

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What about retailer partners who view DTC as competition? We haven’t received any complaints. We support a full-price business, so we’re not competing on a promotional basis with our retailers. The purpose of our website is twofold. One, it supports the brand as a place to learn what SAM is all about. Two, it’s a chance to see the full collection because every store buys it differently. Many consumers look online at what we offer and then go buy it at a local retailer. Our website doesn’t let them try-on as easily as going into a store can, obviously.

EVERYTHING IS SIMULATED FOR KIDS, FROM THE TOP BRANDS DOWN. SAY HELLO TO GUCCI SNEAKERS FOR INFANTS!

What are your biggest challenges right now, and what are you doing to overcome them? It’s always a challenge on the production side. We can’t take our eyes off the price of the downs. Some of our production is in China, so we’ve been keeping an eye on the tariffs, too. We also buy all European fabric, so the exchange rate between the countries is very important. While there’s some price elasticity the product can withstand, you don’t want all three things collapsing on you at the same time. We must maintain our high-end quality yet keep pricing from being prohibitive to someone perusing our collection. It’s tough, but we’re doing well.

How is your DTC channel doing? As a brand, we take our website very seriously. We re-photograph everything each season just to keep it fresh, while also keeping new colors and styles particularly visible. It’s a constant effort to showcase the collection in a sophisticated way that gives everyone access to what we’re doing next. While I think selling through your website has a lot of benefits these days, you must take that responsibility seriously. You’ve now opened yourself up to the public, so you really need to address it, answering demands properly and on time.

Any advice for retailers still trying to adapt in what is a volatile and rapidly changing landscape? The main objective is to differentiate your product mix from the competition. It’s also important to support online efforts. With so many consumers shopping online, many of our retailers have begun shifting their business to be more accessible digitally. The Internet is not a trend; it’s a new way of life.

Balance, which can be defined as omnichannel, is key. Exactly. Retailers must make sure they’re keeping up with the growing online demand. At the same time, in-store events are always good supplements to drive traffic and sales. It’s also important to keep tabs on the financial performance of each and every location to determine whether it’s worthwhile to continue with that overhead cost. I think that’s what most retailers are doing right now—trying to find the right mix of stores and ecommerce. What are SAM’s goals for 2019? We want to grow our brand awareness. We also want to work on controlling the amount of inventory, trying not to flood the market at the end of any season with excess. Our eye is always on the ball, keeping inventory very tight and trying to end each year with as close to nothing as possible. How do you envision SAM in five years? It’s hard to say for sure, but all we can do is stay in our lane. The name of the game is focus. Focus on what we do well and avoid trying to do too many things. We’ll grow, but in categories that make sense. There’s

Where the kids industry connects FIRST EDITION FEBRUARY 4-5, 2019 Planet Hollywood, Las Vegas

Overprint by Frédérique Daubal • www.daubal.com

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N O T E T O M Y YOU N G E R S E L F

Gut Instincts EVAN HAKALIR, PRESIDENT AND CEO OF ANDY & EVAN, ON WHY PURSUING YOUR DREAMS OUTDOES ALL ELSE IN BUSINESS.

DEAR EVAN, It’s 2002 and you’re in your second year of college in New York. You’re a marketing major (pursuing a minor in entrepreneurial studies) at the Sy Syms School of Business at Yeshiva University. You have this grand plan of working in advertising. It seems like a cool, fun industry, and you love the idea of creating witty ad campaigns. Your favorite school projects always involve creative, out-of-the-box assignments. And you are pretty good at them—at the very least, better than most. One day you’re engrossed in a conversation with fellow students about the job market, which is pretty soft post 9/11. The advertising industry comes up, and someone comments that it’s very hard to make money in the field unless you’re one of the “lucky ones” who catch a break. Well, none of us bother to verify whether that is indeed the case, or even speak to anyone who works in the industry. We just accept this passing aside as fact. In hindsight, it’s a very valuable lesson: Ignore the naysayers, do your own fact-finding and go with your gut. After graduation, you decide to chase the money and enter the real estate business. You bounce around a bit until you find your groove in commercial real estate finance. You do that until 2009, and then the financial and real estate markets collapse. You’re out of a job. The day after you’re fired, you’re lying in bed depressed and lost. Then a calendar event pops up on your Blackberry ( just one in a series of handheld computers you’ll come to rely on daily) reminding you about a lunch meeting you had scheduled weeks before with a banker friend. You’re about to cancel, but something tells you to go. You drag yourself out of bed, take a shower, get dressed, swallow your pride and head to the subway. The whole ride you worry about how you’re going to deliver the news that you’re unemployed. You arrive, hat in hand, but before you can say a word, your friend says he’s lost his job. He then tells you about a great freelance consulting gig he’s landed with a huge real estate company. Oh, and they’re hiring! You’re employed by that following Friday. Phew! You’re forever grateful to your

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friend. It’s another valuable lesson: Develop a strong network of friends and colleagues. You’ll rely on them often as you advance in your career. Also, remember to pay it forward whenever possible. The next chapter of your life is just crazy. You’re doing well at this great freelance gig and decide that, with the flexibility, who needs sleep and launch a men’s shirt business—not having a clue how to go about it, mind you. You quickly pivot into boys’ shirts, deciding the kids’ market is underserved in the boys’ category, which you are right about. You work your tail off for the next four years, juggling two jobs. You then quit the freelancing gig, doubling down on Andy & Evan. Over the next five years, the business grows steadily and you actually learn what you’re doing! In January 2018, you sell a portion of your business to a third-generation apparel company, David Peyser Sportswear, confirming that just maybe you knew what you were doing all along. Valuable lesson number 3: Don’t ever take no for an answer. Stubbornness (in the right places) is a good business trait. Since day one of Andy & Evan, you’ve held fast to your vision and always found a way to get the job done, no matter how trying the circumstances. Kudos on that! You work hard and earn everything you’ve ever got. Nothing comes easy in life, but I’m not complaining or trying to worry you. You’ll accomplish so much, and a great life awaits you. You adore your wife and two amazing girls. You live in New York (friggin’) City! You’ve built an amazing company and a brand that people love. You’re privileged to work with so many great people every day, and you have phenomenal business partners. Any regrets? I just wish you followed your gut and started on this journey sooner. Always follow your dreams! I also wish you wouldn’t have worried so much about money early on. But I realize these mistakes help shape the person you become. They are minor bumps along the way. We have so much more still to accomplish! P.S. Buy stock in Apple, please!

molo.com Visit us at Playtime stand M08

TREND WATCH

Kapital K tie-front top

Hebe cat dress

Deux Par Deux geometric pants Toobydoo joggers

Appaman faux fur hat

Classic Prep Childrenswear cardigan

Sorci and Fofa jacket

Romy & Rosie hoodie

Baby Jives Co. hair tie

Pattâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;touch oxford

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Molo puffer jacket

Mouse Loves Pig rattle Tip Toey Joey sneakers

Izipizi glasses

Collégien glitter socks

Tiny Treats by Zomi Gems sequin purse

Pediped crib shoe

Reef Madness

Egg by Susan Lazar sweater

LIVING CORAL IS the hue of 2019, according to the color forecasting experts at Pantone. The soft shade of orange with a golden undertone suggests warmth and positivity in simple color stories, however becomes more explorative and effervescent in patterns, textures and even monochrome looks. It also works as a striking accent across the color spectrum. Expect the hot hue to inspire experimentation by both street and couture designers. Noting that color is an equalizing lens through which humans experience natural and digital realities, Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, says consumers are craving human interaction and social connection, and the humanizing and heartening qualities displayed by the convivial Living Coral hit a responsive chord. Plus, it’s just really pretty. —Emily Beckman

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2019 Gift Guide A L IT T L E E XT RA F U N FO R TOTS TO TWE E NS

Bloc Art upcycled wall decor

BABY & TODDLER

Hamico baby toothbrush

Maptote organic cotton one-piece

Baby Noomie unicorn security blanket

Thermal-Aid heating and cooling bunny

Patt’touch burano print leather sneaker

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ZANDINO PHOTOGRAPHY BY YORA’S PORTRAITS

Zandino Couture chunky knit blanket

Baby Jives Co. butterfly mobile

Finn + Emma macramĂŠ swing

Zoocchini organic cotton training underpants

Bbluv teething mit

Nativa hand-embroidered artisan bib

Colibries vegan suede wipes holder

2019 Gift Guide

A LIT T L E E XT RA F U N FO R TOTS TO TWEEN S

Kevin Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Brien Studio handmade kangaroos

Sukeno pizza socks

The Field Toy farm replica

KIDS

Pop Cutie ring

Iscream llama clay DIY kit

Three by Three notepad

Fluf lunch tote

Quilling Card barrettes

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Kingsley Kids foldable sunglasses

Lilies & Roses barrette

Ooly scented stickers

Sock it to Me space socks

Think Box lava rocks kit

Making in the Moment putty kit

14 Lorena Canals storage basket

Magnote wooden dinosaur kit

Fatty Sundays chocolate covered pretzels

milesbaby.com CH

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2019 Gift Guide

A LIT T L E E XT RA F U N FO R TOTS TO TWEEN S

Anhad yoga mat

Eclair Lips lip balm

Isabelle Grace Jewelry necklaces

TWEENS

Twelve Little backpack

STMT spa kit

My Cinema Lightbox room decor

Big Joe beanbag chair

Nelson Line accessories tray

Yporque piano scarf

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Simply Gum all-natural chewing gum

Royal Wood Crafts 3-D chess

Morikukko hooded backpack

World Finds bracelet

Slick Lizard Design tablet case

14 Primal Elements shampoo bar

Color You Can Feel. Sunkissed is our take on Living Coralâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;one part Nantucket red, one part sea salt and the glow of warm summer evenings mixed in.

Visit us: CPCChildrenswear.com

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK ANDREW STYLING BY M A R I A H WA L K E R

OUTERWEAR TRENDS F O R FA L L â&#x20AC;&#x2122; 1 9 S PA N H I G H S H E E N P U F F E R S , FA U X FUR AND FLEECE

ACROSS A SPECTRUM OF BRIGHTS.

Olivia wears fleece half-zip by Joules, True Religion metallic coat and Sons and Daughters sunglasses.

Skylar wears Hatley metallic jacket, Egg by Susan Lazar faux leopard fur jacket, Body Wrappers green leotard, Fun Socks striped socks, Princess Aurora for Body Wrappers tutu and stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own roller skates. 27

Skylar wears pink puffer by Appaman, printed windbreaker by O8 Lifestyle, Puma fluorescent shirt and socks, Retour leopard pants and Pop shoes. Opposite: Matilda wears Malibu Sugar hat, quilted and track jackets by Puma, Appaman leggings and Western Chief rain boots. 29

Matilda wears yellow reversible jacket by Save the Duck, Bub Caps hat, Appaman T-shirt, Converse joggers, Fun Socks striped socks, Champion purple fanny pack, slip-on sneakers by Dr. Schollâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kids, Nike shin guards and Cal 7 skateboard.

Liam wears camo jacket by SAM, sweatshirt by Jordan, True Religion joggers, Dezzys sneakers and stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own glasses. Opposite: Matilda wears bomber jacket by Buffalo David Bitton, sleeveless fake fur by American Widgeon, Converse T-shirt, Molo plaid pants and Western Chief rain boots. Photography by Mark Andrew/ The Garden Party; styling and concept by Mariah Walker/ Art Department NY; hair and makeup by Laura Mitchell on hair for Oribe and makeup for @kohgendoh; set design by Alexandra Egan; styling assistance by Enid Hunt.

H AU T E TOPICS

D E S I G N E R C H AT TA B I T H A O S L E R FA I R E C H I L D SUSTAINABILITY HAS ALWAYS been at the forefront of Tabitha Osler’s designs. From getting her master's at Antwerp Royal Academy in Belgium to her time designing for couture labels in the UK, Osler’s collections focused on sustainable material innovation, including the use of natural and recycled fibers. After having her first child, Osler found a new outlet for her creativiy. “I wanted my muse to be a child, and I wanted to create an impact on the generation that’s growing into a world affected by climate change,” she says, stressing the importance of a circular economy. Faire Child became the embodiment of that mission when it started selling raincoats made from 100 percent recycled plastic bottles in May 2018. The collection of waterproof raincoats, rain pants and anoraks was an instant hit with urban parents who appreciated the innovative fabrics and heritage aesthetic. “They’re trendsetters who

love the high-functioning, luxury material and see the brand as a way to create change with their buying habits,” Osler says, adding that design is an equally important selling point. In fact, the Fall ’19 collection is a complete redesign, featuring traditional raincoats, waistcoats, striped overalls and wide-brim hats in rustic oranges and soft sage greens inspired by heritage workwear from the ’30s and ’40s. “Customers love seeing their kids step out of time from the past while still wearing modern technology,” she says. “That marriage really works.” When building Faire Child, Osler was careful to weave the sustainable thread through the entire business. In addition to being made from recycled, eco-tech certified material, each garment features upcycled elastic, thread and brass and is packaged with compostable materials. Osler also offers a Take Back program, where customers can return worn out items to be disassembled and recycled

Classic Comfort in new KicKee Styles #GrowUpInKicKee

#KicKeePants #KicKeeKids @kickeepants kickeepants.com

into another plastic bottle or fabric. “It’s important not just to divert waste but ensure garments never end up in a landfill,” she says, noting designs are all machine washable and dryer safe. “I don’t want to be hypocritical at any stage of the process.” So far so good, Osler reports. Her most frequently asked question is when will adult sizes be available. The answer is this spring when Faire Child introduces a capsule collection in collaboration with The Garment Life. “The Mommy- and Daddy-and-Me trends are big right now, and I think my customers will love that,” Osler says, adding that she also wants to introduce insulating under layers in children’s sizing. “We want Faire Child to be a year-round company, so layering for winter is important.” — Aleda Johnson

www.petitehailey.com info@studioajshowroom

How’s business? We launched in May and missed the spring season, but it’s been really busy these last few months. We’ve done well selling direct-to-consumer, and we’re going to Playtime Paris in January to launch our wholesale campaign where we hope to also connect with U.S. customers. Why is the fashion quotient as equally important as the functional aspects of your designs? As a mother, I focus more on my child’s fashion than I do my own! I look to Italians for that answer because they’ve been dressing their children impeccably forever. In North America, we’re just starting to see that. I can tell you my three-year-old is already very opinionated. Fashion is very powerful because it can help sculpt your identity. What is your favorite Faire Child design? Our classic raincoat is beautiful. When I found the original hunting coat I created the pattern from, I was so excited. We source all the inspiration pieces from The Vintage Showroom in London that collects clothing from around the world. Everything is exquisite from the fabrics to embellishments to patinas. It’s like walking into this dream come true.

A MODERN WORLD - MADE OF -

100% PIMA COTTON BOOTH 1037

What is something you would never include in your designs? Probably prints, for now. While our fabric supplier doesn’t offer prints at the moment, I also just want the pieces to be timeless. Bringing in prints can be too seasonal and not something that will last five to 10 years. What do you love most about being a designer? There’s something very magical about creating something from nothing. You’re bringing something into the world from your imagination. It’s just the greatest gift to see people wearing, appreciating and loving your designs. I get a tingly feeling every time.

INFO@BABYNOOMIE.COM 404.692.2887

www.babynoomie.com

BEHIND THE SEAMS

A Good Egg Save the Duck fits the bill for innovative, sustainable and cruelty-free outerwear. CITING LAST YEAR as its “North American breakthrough,” Save the Duck first migrated from Europe to the U.S. market with a collection of 100-percent sustainable, cruelty-free outerwear in 2014 and has been growing ever since. The brand has gained a flock of followers led by its stylish parkas featuring Plumtech technology, a patented synthetic filler made from recycled polyester that has the soft texture and compressibility of down while also being lightweight, machine-washable and equally effective for thermal control. “We’ve managed to push the right buttons and align with the right retailers,” says Seth Steinberg, vice president of sales at Modextil, the brand’s U.S. distributor. “The weather breaking earlier this year also helped get consumers in the mood to purchase outerwear.” With sales doubling in the past year, Steinberg anticipates more growth in 2019 across major accounts such as Nordstrom, Saks, Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus and Barneys as well as independent specialty boutiques. He also expects the brand to advance further into the ski/outdoor channel, drawing attention of late with a suit for vegan climber Kuntal Joisher. “I’m proud to say Kuntal successfully climbed to the top of K2 (8,500 meters) in our design while maintaining the warmth he needed—a huge endorsement for the brand,” Steinberg says. Beyond its signature parkas, Save the Duck plans on expanding its EcoLamb collection for Fall ’19, an assortment of Sherpa-lined styles that flew out of stores last season. “Our color palette is really what separates us from the competition,” Steinberg says of the Milan-based designs for kids, moms and dads that feature rich hues with heat-sealed stitching. “The Italians really know how to create all the details necessary to make a jacket stand out among others,” he adds. Despite tremendous retail consolidation and general industry upheaval, Steinberg remains optimistic about Save the Duck’s continued growth potential. Like any migratory bird, it’s about finding ways to adapt to changing landscapes. “We’re in a world where technology and Amazon are changing every business at a rapid pace, so you must remain ahead of the curve,” he says, noting that manufacturers and distributors must adapt to drop-shipping and full-service accommodations for customers. So far, so good for Save the Duck. “It’s amazing to see how much we’ve grown in the U.S., from zero to where we are today,” Steinberg says. “I’d still say this is just the beginning.” —Emily Beckman

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

All Hail Magnetic Me launches special-edition collection inspired by next royal baby. WHEN MAGNETIC ME Co-founder Lauren Levy was expecting at the same time as Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, a.k.a. Kate Middleton, was pregnant with Prince George in 2013, she commemorated the births with the launch of the royal-themed collection, “An Heir is Born.” Now that collection is getting an American-themed makeover as the world excitedly awaits the birth of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle’s first born this spring. “We honestly didn’t think anything could come close to as big of a worldwide royal phenomenon as Prince George— until Prince Harry married an American,” Levy says. “We knew from day one that when the time came, we had to roll out a special ‘An Heir is Born’ collection again, but this time include the baby’s American heritage.” Currently available on the brand’s website for presale, the gender-neutral royal print closely reflects the original with the addition of American flags scattered throughout classic English motifs of prams, crowns and royal bugles. Wholesaling from $18 to $24, offerings span footies, sleep gowns, bibs and blankets with an improved hand-feel of silky modal over the previous collection’s cotton fabric. The collection also features a crowned teddy bear lovey that Levy says her own kids sleep with every night. The initial reaction from buyers has been exceptional, Levy reports. “Buyers have been quite pleased with our quick response to design and delivery to coincide with the birth of the royal baby,” she says. “The limited-edition offer has encouraged the select retailers to purchase on an exclusivity.” To add to the royal hubbub, Magnetic Me is planning a special tea party for the participating accounts as well as running a “cutest baby contest” for customers dressed in a royal footie or gown. —E. B.

BE THE BUYER

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

Straight Talk Jeannie Yoon, owner of Jeannie N Mini in Irvine, CA, uses forward-thinking buying strategies to drive business. CALCULATE AND CONQUER: My buying habits are very numbers-

driven. I run weekly reports on sales and profits for each of my brands to help decide the allocation of store and warehouse space as well as forecast inventory. A general hint is to focus on finding more products to sell to your existing customers. It’s much easier to increase sales by selling more products while customers are in your store than looking for new customers to buy your limited items. Also, try adding lots of small impulse-buy items—you’ll be surprised HOME RUNS how much those sell! You need to work with brands that pursue long-term business, not a quick ‘get rich and get out’ attitude. Beyond quality, I look for brands that control market prices (e.g. strict MAP monitoring) with good margins, provide free or low-cost shipping and have great customer service. Q UA L I T Y CO N T R O L :

I analyze my customers by reviewing what is selling (child’s age group, price point, product category) and by direct interaction. I have over 12,000 loyal customer program members, and I follow up with individual emails after a purchase—often leading to helpful feedback! VALUE EACH CONNECTION:

Dresswear: Petite Hailey Outerwear: Mayoral

Shower Gifts: Angel Dear Toys: Jellycat Footwear: Mini Melissa New Brand: Puttisu Sleepwear: Kickee Pants

SEEK PROFESSIONALISM: I find it really annoying

when companies ask for credit card details without first sending me an invoice. It’s like asking for a blank check. I also avoid working with companies that are always out of stock. Running out of stock in the first six months after a new product launch is understandable, but after that it’s poor inventory management. Another obstacle comes from companies that frequently change the packaging of the same products and change the SKU and barcodes, as well. This creates a lot of confusion and additional work for buyers.

INTRODUCING

EARNSHAW’S CREATIVE From seasonal catalogs to impactful ads, our team provides quality design, photography and branding.

SPECIALTIES INCLUDE:

My online business has grown 260 percent this year over last year, and I anticipate it will continue to grow faster than my store business. I’m hoping for a 50/50 split between online and in-store in a couple of years. I also want to set up a distribution business for great overseas brands to launch into the U.S. It seems that wholesale business will soon shift to an online base just like the retail business has. THINK AHEAD:

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