Earnshaw's | July 2017

SIT TING PRET T Y WITH PASTOURELLE

VOLUME 101 NUMBER 6

•

THE RISE OF SUBSCRIPTION BOX SERVICES

•

T R E N D WATC H : T H AT ’ 7 O S S H O W & H O L I D AY S P I C E

JULY 201 7 $10.00

EVERLASTING ELEGANCE Classic Dresswear Meets Modern-Day Influences

INTRODUCING

Bouclé

™

FLUFFY + TWIRLY + CHIC

Available Fall 2017

sales@ulcapparel.com 212-299-4175

J U LY 2017 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster

PAGE 34

Ana Novikova Office Administration Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CONTACT INFO

F E AT U R E S 8 Thinking Inside the Box Retailer try on subscription services for size. By Emily Beckman 10 Fancy That The mother-daughter duo behind Pastourelle, LLC. shares an optimistic forecast for the special occasion market. By Emily Beckman

DEPARTMENTS 4 Editor’s Note 6 Scene & Heard 14 Sounding Off 16 Hot Properties 18 Trend Watch

FAS HIO N 22 Picture Perfect Donning timeless silhouettes with contemporary charm, children capture the moment through an old-fashioned twist on the modern selfie. By Mariah Walker

32 Haute Topics 34 Behind the Seams 36 What’s Selling

This page, left to right: Babiators sunglasses, Appaman jacket, dress

by Isobella & Chloe; Babiators sunglasses, Project 6 NY headband, coat

by American Widgeon, Maria Casero dress.

On cover: Jellycat plush rabbit, Little Lids hat, Project 6 NY necklace, dress and bolero by Luna Luna Collection, Baby Deer socks, Nanette Lepore shoes; Appaman shirt, Project 6 NY bow tie, pants and vest by Dal Lago, Florsheim shoes.

Photography by Joanna Paterson/ Art Department NY; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/Utopia the Agency, NYC; set design by Sara Foldenauer/Ray Brown Productions.

Sales/Editorial Offices 135 West 20th Street Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 135 West 20th Street, Suite 402 New York, NY 10011. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender.

Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

2

E A R N S H AW S . C O M • J U LY 2 0 1 7

er_7_17_TOC_01REVISE.indd 2

7/21/17 3:09 PM

LA

FINE LINES LA Mart Suite 449 ELOISA AND MIA California Market Center #A611

LAS VEGAS

FINE LINES World Market Center C-1024

ATLANTA

FIELDSTONE AmericasMart Bldg. 2 Suite 912

MASSACHUSETTS

MARIA GIAMPAOLO 75 McNeil Way Suite 210 Dedham, MA

SEATTLE

FINE LINES Seattle Mart Suite 213

800.334.5321 elegantbaby.com

TORONTO

DESIGN HOME International Centre Hall #1, Suites 100-100A

NY

NYNOW JAVITS CENTER Booth #7145

DALLAS

PORTICO COLLECTION World Trade Center #631 FRANK ZIEBELL Dallas World Trade Center #8660

EDITOR’S NOTE

Going Seamless T

HE DAYS OF “if you build it, they will come” are no longer. Consumer shopping habits are changing dramatically. Aspects like instant delivery, intuitive commerce and interactive store experiences are just some of the new trends radically altering the retail landscape. The digital and physical worlds continue to blur, a slight of hand that must be as seamless as possible since consumer expectations and demands have never been greater. No matter where, when or how a shopping experience takes place, it better be efficient, easy and entertaining. Fail to deliver and shoppers can and will go elsewhere—often with a few swipes of a smartphone. Welcome to the new retail world order where the consumer calls the shots.

But shop millions of consumers must and will continue to do— every day, in stores and online. It’s not an either/or scenario, despite numerous reports that brick-and-mortar retailing is on the verge of extinction. (Why, exactly, would Amazon shell out $13.7 billion for Whole Foods Market and its 450 storefronts if the world’s largest digital retailer believed brick-and-mortar is doomed?) Amazon knows better than anyone the importance of being seamless, and its lack of face-to-face human interaction has been its Achilles’ heel since day one. In fact, a recent study on consumer shopping and purchasing habits indicates that 80 percent of Generation Z—the next demographic pig in the python on the heels of Millennials—likes to shop in stores, especially those that offer an entertaining component.

However, that doesn’t just mean a few in-store trunk shows will generate an immediate boost in traffic and sales. That may draw shoppers in and while some may make a purchase there, others may prefer to buy later online. Either way, it must be a seamless process, or you run the risk of losing their attention and the sale.

Tutu Spoiled, a special occasion boutique in New Jersey and this month’s “What’s Selling” profile (p. 36), understands the importance of being seamless. Owner Jessica Snarski launched the business online in 2009 and opened her store four years later. She has since branched out with a growing custom design business. Customers are literally “tickled pink” shopping amid the 800-square-foot boutique’s

rosy décor and tons of tulle, but they can also shop whenever and wherever online, as well as have a special occasion item made-toorder for their little princess. Snarski’s ability to continually adapt and evolve to the wants and needs of her clientele—oftentimes before they even know—is the mark of a great retailer.

Indeed, intuitiveness looks to be the new black when it comes to retail formats. Subscription box services are popping up across the retail landscape like mushrooms—Amazon’s recent test launch of Prime Wardrobe being the latest example. Mall traffic statistics clearly reflect that many consumers just don’t have the time or desire to browse. Yet shopping online can be overwhelming and time-consuming with thousands of sites offering any and all goods.

The concept of letting retailers do the shopping for consumers just might just be one way to reinsert their importance and expertise into the equation. It’s also quite possibly represents the ultimate in seamless retailing: “Don’t worry, we know what you need and want as well as when you need it. Leave all the shopping to us...” Be sure to read our Talking Points feature, “Thinking Inside the Box” (p. 8), for childrenswear-specific subscription box service examples and why this format might have some legs.

Last but surely not least, nothing makes retail as seamless as beautiful garments. (They sell themselves, right?) Our Spring ’18 special occasion story, “Picture Perfect” (p. 22), is no exception.

Timeless silhouettes updated with contemporary charm details reflect the modern elegance of today’s special occasion market.

Amid a world of revolutionary change, I also find a bit of solace in that some aspects of our industry never change—like special occasion wear is best extra-special.

Such has been the approach of Fran and Julia Arazi, the motherdaughter duo behind Pastourelle and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p.10). The designers continue to produce one-of-a-kind keepsakes season after season for its growing portfolio of dress brands. Their guiding light? “Keep it special,” Julia says. It’s a simple, universal rule of thumb for wholesalers and retailers, alike. You might say it’s seamless, too.

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

4

E A R N S H AW S . C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

www.egg-baby.com share what you love #eggbysusanlazar

LA KIDS MARKET

CHILDREN’S WORLD

CHILDREN’S CLUB NYC

KIDSWORLD

CHILDREN’S CLUB LV

CHICAGO KIDS

JULY 30 – AUGUST 3

AUGUST 2 – AUGUST 6

AUGUST 6 – AUGUST 8

AUGUST 9 – AUGUST 12

AUGUST 14 – AUGUST 16

AUGUST 22 – AUGUST 24

Nicky Rose Kids 110 E. 9th Street Suite A683

Ali & Friends Showroom Atlanta’s AmericasMart, Bldg 3 Showroom 13e108

Jacob Javits Center 655 W 34th St

Button Up Showroom World Trade Center, Dallas Showroom #8072

Las Vegas Convention Center 3150 Paradise Rd

Whitney Douglas Showroom 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza

SCENE & HEARD

Modern Classic

Better Together BÉBÉ AU LAIT, known for its acclaimed nursing covers, has acquired Puj, a baby bath accessories company, to expand its range beyond soft goods. The companies both share the mission of simplifying parenthood, offering products for nursing, sleeping, feeding and bathing.

“We have long-admired Puj founders’ unique design aesthetic and the highly respected brand they have built together,” says Ronnie Ekelund, CEO and co-founder of Bébé au Lait.

“We are very happy that Ben and Katie (Richardson) will continue to be highly involved in Puj and will stay on in the company as shareholders.”

“The idea that we now get to work together to further drive innovation for parents is a dream come true,” says Katie Richardson, co-founder, Puj. “Between Bébé au Lait’s expertise in soft goods and Puj’s experience with hard goods, we will be unstoppable together.”

Both brands will continue to design and manufacture products under their respective brand names. Distribution will span independent boutiques to national chains such as Nordstrom, BuyBuy Baby, Babies “R” Us and Target.

STRIDE RITE’S ORIGINAL bootie, launched in 1931, has been given a reboot. Part of the brand’s SRTech collection, the new-and-improved “Bailey” features rubber soles (originals were made of leather), making them lighter, as well as providing increased slip resistance and flexibility.

The rounded athletic sole also ensures less tumbles for tots, in addition to making the upper more malleable to encourage a natural gait.

“The classic white lace-up bootie is a symbol of Stride Rite’s rich heritage and experience in children’s footwear, so it was essential to get the redesign right—both with the styling and the structure of the shoe,” says Marc Loverin, creative director, adding, “To give moms and dads a more modern first shoe for baby, we gave the Bailey upper a sleek and sporty makeover and have developed the shoe in classic white as well as metallic pink.”

Design updates have been incorporated into the entire SRTech collection, including the Addison, which has a sleek, wing tip design, and the Jane, which is a modern take on the classic Mary Jane style. “As parents, we love to share elements of our own childhood with our little ones—from experiences to toys and even shoes,” says Liz Bunnell, vice president of marketing at Stride Rite. “This nostalgia and longing for simple, classic items for baby is what inspired the redesign of this beloved shoe.” The Bailey’s suggested retail price is $52 and is available in sizes 3 to 7 in medium-width, wide and extra wide. The pink metallic is available in medium-width and wide.

Ken Gets a Man Bun FIRST IT WAS Barbie who received a progressive makeover by Mattel last year: three new doll body types (tall, curvy and petite), along with new skin tones, eye colors and hairstyles. Sales growth has soared into the double digits, the doll made the cover of Time and it was named “Doll of the Year” by the Toy Industry Association.

Now it’s Ken’s turn. The new-andimproved boyfriend, part of the Barbie Fashionista collection hitting stores this year, will be available in 15 different varieties including three body types (slim, broad and original), seven skin tones, eight eye colors, nine hairstyles and, of course, an array of trend-right fashions.

6

E A R N S H AW S . C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

“By continuing to expand our product line, we are redefining what a Barbie or Ken doll looks like to this generation,” says Lisa McKnight, senior vice president and general manager of Barbie. “Evolving Ken was a natural evolution for the brand and allows girls to further personalize the role they want him to play in Barbie’s world.”

Mattel’s decision to remake Ken and Barbie followed a decline in sales attributed mainly to Millennial parents’ rejection of unrealistic body expectations. That’s when the company launched its top-secret redesign, “Operation Dawn.” Going forward, Mattel reports Barbie will experience more diversified options slated across brand content, marketing and product.

40T H A N N I V E R S A RY EARNIE AWARDS With more than a century as the leading trade publication in the children’s fashion market, Earnshaw’s proudly celebrates another milestone with this year’s 40th anniversary of its Earnie Awards. Over the last four decades, the industry has recognized outstanding companies with this prestigious accolade, voted upon by thousands of industry leaders. The honor of being selected for an Earnie Award denotes the retail community’s seal of approval in areas of design, quality and overall excellence across more than 20 categories.

BE SU RE TO M A RK YO U R C A L E N DA R W IT H T H I S Y E A R’ S I M P O RTA NT DAT E S :

Open Ballot Nominations: June 20—July 20 Final Ballot Voting: August 6—September 25 Winners Announced: October 6 Get social with the hashtag #EarnYourEarnie2017 and encourage your industry peers to head over to www.earnieawards.com to vote.

But that’s only the pre-game. In celebration of our 40th, we’d like to thank the industry for their tremendous support with our complimentary anniversary lounge at Children’s Club in August. Grab a refreshment, rest your feet and catch up with industry peers on us. Then, get ready for the big unveiling of our final nominees on the first day of the show, August 6. We look forward to seeing you there!

Questions? Head over to www.earnieawards.com or contact Noelle.Heffernan@9threads.com.

TALKING POINTS

Thinking Inside the Box SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES OPEN UP A WORLD OF OPPORTUNITIES.

BY EMILY BECKMAN

A

S CONSUMERS GET spoiled by the couch-shopping convenience and immediate gratification being offered by online dealers, brick-and-mortar retailers are being forced to win back shoppers by offering exciting, experiential and curated ways to purchase goods. One such way is subscription boxes: a recurring delivery of niche-oriented products that allow traditional retailers (as well as manufacturers and online dealers) to take some of the hassle out of shopping for staples. It’s also an effective way to introduce new items and brands to consumers.

Such services have caught on like wildfire of late, running the gamut of niche categories from beauty gurus and pet lovers to fitness buffs and moms. A current guesstimate: there are now an around 2,000 subscription box services available to consumers, one of the latest—and potentially biggest—being Amazon’s Prime Wardrobe. The service, available to Prime members at no extra charge, began its test mode last month. Customers can try on clothes and shoes before they buy them and return any items they don’t like—for free. One Wall Street firm projected Amazon’s share of the U.S. clothing market, currently at 6.6 percent, will zoom to 16.2 percent by 2021.

Birchbox is another subscription box service generating plenty of buzz since launching five years ago. The service, which delivers four to five personalized beauty samples each month to its subscribers, has rocketed from 20 brand partners and 1,200 subscribers to more than 800 brand partners and 1 million-plus subscribers. Katia Beauchamp,

8

E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

co-founder of Birchbox, says offering samples for $10 per month gives subscribers a taste of a new brand or product, which ultimately leads them to buy more of what they like through its website, brand websites and stores. In fact, 50 percent of all Birchbox subscribers ultimately convert to making regular full-size purchases through the company’s website, according to Beauchamp.

The children’s sector has been reporting similar success stories with subscription box services. KidBox, for example, has experienced steady growth since its launch about four years ago. The company sends a box of six to seven seasonal apparel items based on a child’s style profile submitted by parents. Some of the premiere brands KidBox offers include Diesel, 7 For All Mankind, Roxy, Kensie, Jessica Simpson, Penguin, Puma, Adidas and Reebok. “Our partners see our company as a vehicle that introduces their brands to customers and gets product into consumers’ hands who may not have considered it otherwise,” says Miki Racine Berardelli, CEO. “It’s a strong brand awareness and brand positioning moment.” It’s also a pretty seamless shopping process: The family has 10 days to decide which KidBox items they’d like to keep.

Items they don’t want can be returned (via an enclosed shipping label).

The cost to keep the entire box is $98. As incentive to do so, Berardelli notes, is that for every complete box sold, the company donates an outfit to a child in need through the non-profit, Delivering Good. “This is a new, powerful distribution channel for both retailers and wholesalers to leverage,” Berardelli says, adding that it’s a win-win for all parties.

August 6-8, 2017 Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building

200 collections Fashion & Lifestyle

CHILDREN’S & MATERNITY TRADE SHOWS WORLDWIDE!

illustration Anna Kövecses

“In many cases, the household may have considered that brand but never purchased it, or may have never known much about it and now have the opportunity to discover it. ” Christine Deehring, founder of Bump Boxes, agrees that the subscription box formula is seamless for shoppers and profitable for vendors. Deehring, who began her business as an e-commerce retailer for expecting moms in 2014, branched into a subscription service to increase engagement and outreach, which she reports has resulted in exponential growth for her company. For $39.99 per month, Mom can sign up at any point during her pregnancy by simply inputting her due date. Then, every month, she will receive a box that’s tailored to her needs, spanning maternity clothes and nursery trinkets to food cravings and pampering products. “We do a lot of partnerships with baby companies to introduce the brands right before Mom is thinking about purchasing those products,” Deehring says. “We’re introducing moms to healthy, safe brands that she will ultimately go on to purchase at her favorite retail locations.”

Box services also lend themselves well to viral social media exposure as parents often post photos and videos of their children reacting to new deliveries like they would a present on Christmas morning. Social media posts include videos of kids trying on clothes, playing with toys and weighing in with high-pitched opinions.

“We see a lot of really wonderful YouTube unboxing videos,” Berardelli says. “Everyday people are becoming expert reviewers of box experiences.”

It’s one reason most box service providers make sure their packaging goes above and beyond the usual dull brown Amazon box.

Boxes are often decorative on the outside and filled with colorful tissue paper. In addition, the goods complement each other well.

Deehring describes it as putting together a pretty puzzle. “You have to create the right mix of safe, healthy and fun products, and then they all have to fit a theme and look good together,” she says.

To date, marketing for subscription companies has been fairly organic. (Think relatively affordable.) If Mom likes it, she’ll likely share it. One report cites that 70 percent of moms have posted about a brand’s product or service on social media. Experts believe anything that can be viewed as an experience has potential appeal to consumers.

Subscription services are also an ideal way for traditional retailers to extend their reach beyond their stores. It lets them play the role of personal shopper. In addition, retailers are able to build trust as an expert who knows what their subscribers might need and want before they even know it. The bonding potential has been so great that Berardelli is thinking of opening KidBox stores, although she envisions something more “mobile” and event-driven. “We are exploring how to build our brand in a cool, exciting way by connecting directly to our customers and raising awareness among children on the importance of giving back,” she says.

Subscription box services also present an ideal opportunity to create exclusives for consumers. Not every box assortment need be the same. Providers can tier their selections as a way to incentivize and/or reward select customers with special items. Beginning this fall, for example, Hasbro will introduce its Hasbro Gaming Crate, a curated collection of games delivered every three months to subscribers for $49.99. “The service makes it easy and convenient for families to try new games,” says Jonathan Berkowitz, senior vice president of marketing at Hasbro. “We’re confidant the games our experts have selected for each crate will provide plenty of fun, bWk]^j[h WdZ \h_[dZbo Yecf[j_j_ed$È

120 collections

200 collections

200 collections

July 5 - 6

August 6 - 8

August 22 - 24

Palazzo Italia

Metropolitan Pavilion & Altman Building

Belle Salle Shibuya Garden

FOR PROFESSIONALS ONLY GET YOUR PERSONAL PASS ON

www.iloveplaytime.com

Q&A Fa n cy T h a t Fran and Julia Arazi—the mother-daughter duo behind Pastourelle, LLC., maker of namesake special occasion wear—share an optimistic forecast for the dress market, believing firmly that not every day must be a jeans day.

BY EMILY BECKMAN

FOR MANY PEOPLE the prospects of finding a dream job remain just that: a dream. That’s what makes Fran and Julia Arazi living their dream job all the more noteworthy. Not only are they doing what they love, designing special occasion wear for the company’s growing portfolio of brands, they are doing so as a family-owned and operated entity since launching in 1987. Julia, in fact, grew up in the business, serving as her mother’s design muse throughout her

10

E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

childhood before joining the company full-time in 2010 (eventually earning the role of creative director).

“People ask me frequently how it is working with my mom, and it’s just wonderful,” Julia says. “We just get along so well, and we have so much fun collaborating. Even on the weekends we’re sending pictures back and forth and talking through ideas. Business has always been such a big part of our relationship in our family, and I couldn’t be luckier.”

“I feel exactly the same way,” Fran says, noting they could count on one hand the number of times they’ve had an argument. “We’ve had just a great relationship from the time she was a baby. That’s one of the aspects I love most about our business: I get to work with her every day.” Of late Fran credits her daughter for introducing the thought processes of the next generation, guiding where business needs to go to please Millennial-age parents. “She’s a vital part of our business,” Fran says. “Not to mention her creativity, which she tends to downplay.”

That business consists of four special occasion lines (Pastourelle, Pippa & Julia, Marmellata and Laura Ashley) and two about to be launched: the company’s first foray in boyswear, Little Brother by Pippa & Julie, and Pastourelle by Pippa & Julie. The boys’ collection will debut at Nordstrom this holiday season following a teaser introduction on the company’s website in August. “Little Brother is something we’ve been throwing around for years,” Julia says, noting, “A brilliant buyer in the infants’ department at Nordstrom helped us get it going.” The new line, available in newborn, infant and toddler sizes, features adorable sets and no separates. “We have a few special occasion pieces for holiday and one specific for Easter, but generally it’s outfits for those days when grandma’s coming for a visit or

a first day of school,” Julia says. “Something to look nice.”

In contrast, the new Pastourelle by Pippa & Julia collection will hone in on classy yet casual styles for girls. Julia says the casual shift is a sign of the times and builds off Pippa & Julie’s introduction of casual styles over the past few years. “We’ve been lucky to have loyal customers who love our more casual offerings,” she says, adding, “We’ve become a year-round business, but we felt we could better serve that market with its own label.” Launching in SMALL T August at Nordstrom, Julia adds that introducing a new tier enables the company to also expand their What are you reading? price range. “It just feels like the Fran: Peacock & Vine by A.S. right time,” she says. “As we have Byatt. It’s a biography of more and more of a direct reladesigners Mariano Fortuny tionship with our customer, it’s and William Morris: where important to make sure we’re servthey found their inspiration and how they changed the ing every need of the parent that’s design world from their own buying our labels.” individual worlds. I’ve been Going forward that will include recommending it to everythe introduction of new product catbody. Julia: The Black Hand egories under the current umbrella

by Stephan Talty. It’s about of brands, Julia says. While it’s too this murderous society that early for specifics, she envisions preceded the Italian mafia in the Pippa &Julie stable of brands New York. becoming more lifestyle in whole.

It may even include opening stores, What’s inspiring you? Fran: A feature on Instagram where as well. “Ideally, we’d like to open a you can file the images you couple of brick-and-mortar locawant to save. I have one cattions, just to set the scene for our egory called “exteriors” that I customers,” Julia says, noting it love. Architecture has always might happen within the next five been fascinating to me. years. “There’s something to be Sometimes it’s the structure, said for having a store where you other times it’s the combinacan have an experience,” she adds. tion of the plants and flowers For her part, Fran is undeterred by in conjunction with the archithe massive store closings of late tecture. Julia: Since we are launching the new boys’ line as the company entertains openwith Nordstrom in the fall, I’ve ing a few flagships. It’s just how been really inspired by the she operates. “I’m used to going culture of menswear lately. against the general trend,” she says.

“We’ve always done that.” From day What sound do you love? one, in fact. “I started by showing Fran: I love baby sounds the line myself, and almost every and the gentle snoring of my retailer said, ‘You know, we realpug. Julia: Musical theater. ly don’t need any new vendors,’” Fran says. But that never stopped her from pushing ahead. “One by one, we’ve been able to convince retailers to give us a try,” Fran says.

“We’ve always worked against the grain, and opening a few stores possibly will be no different.”

Throughout Fran’s eclectic career (one that has spanned working on Wall Street, followed by a lengthy stint as a psychologist and then finally a designer and corporate executive), Fran has consistently defied the odds. It started with her first-paying job as a clerk at a Maritime Insurance brokerage. The then high school-aged Fran fibbed about her age to land the gig. But her dream has always been to be a

designer—one the she set out to pursue at Syracuse University until she took a detour and switched majors, earning a degree in psychology. She went on to run a successful practice, that is until her daughter Julia came along. Then her feelings changed—literally. “I was just so emotional,” Fran says. “Everybody said it was hormonal and I’d get over it, but I kept crying, which was more from happiness than anything.”

Nonetheless, overly emotional psychologists are about as helpful to their patients as surgeons ALK who have a fear of blood. The tough exterior Fran once held to help solve her patients’ probThat was my major in collems softened upon becoming a lege and I performed in a mother. “I took their problems few off-Broadway shows and very much to heart,” she says. “A regional theater. therapist cannot be very helpful if she’s crying about the patient’s What talent would you most like to have? Fran: I problems all the time.” wish I could play the piano.

Fran needed a new line of work Julia: That I were more athletand her recurring dream to become ic. I love how girls and boys a designer resurfaced. “I’ve always are now exposed to so many had an interest in becoming a fashsports that were considered ion designer,” she says, recalling gendered when I was a kid an “autograph book” she had in elementary school that includWhat is your motto? Fran: ed keepsake prompts like, “What ’To thine own self be true.’ do you want to be when you grow As a designer, don’t try to be someone else, just be yourself up,” to which she penned, “fashand do what you think looks ion designer.” beautiful. Julia: When stress But where to begin? Following hits, I always try to remind the birth of her daughter, Fran myself and others, ’It’s just had received many beautiful laydresses.’ ettes. She admired the soft quality of the cotton and the beautiful What is your favorite homefabric designs. Feeling inspired, town memory? Fran: I grew she decided to lend her hand to up in New York and when I layette design and her company, was a little girl, Steeplechase in Coney Island was just the Giraffa, was born. “I had no idea most magical place in the what I was doing—no idea, whatworld. Julia: I’ve had the soever,” Fran says, noting that the same best friend since I was first order was shipped out of her three years old, and it’s just basement where her father had having such a close bond built a small “warehouse” of hangand sharing all the silly things ing racks and a little packaging we’ve gone through our room. Soon after the first shipwhole lives. ment, however, Fran received a call from a customer—one she still does business with today—asking for a reorder. “I was completely hooked at that point,” Fran says.

The rest, you might say, is Pastourelle history. b b b Just how did designing layettes lead to a successful career as a special occasion designer for girls and, soon, boys?

Fran: I became inspired by certain fabrics and couldn’t help envisioning how they would look as beautiful dresses. After a little experimentation,

Ă Ā ā Ĉ ƫ

ƫ đ ƫ E A R N S H AW S .C O M

11

Q&A the girls’ special occasion line Pippa & Julie was introduced (in 1987), which is named after my daughter and the title character of a Robert Browning poem. It was all cotton knits, very comfortable at the start.

The response was positive. Several customers expressed how much their daughters loved wearing their Pippa & Julie dresses for their balance of comfort and style. But trying to design, sell and ship two lines proved too difficult. My layette line was just more important to the business at that time. So we put Pippa & Julie aside after about five years with the plan to start designing dresses again when the time was right.

Which was when?

Fran: Around 2008. That’s when we relaunched dresses, as well as our own girls’ manufacturing company, Pastourelle, LLC. The company became possible through a new financial partner who infused the capital we needed to make the business much bigger.

How’s business this year?

Julia: Our Pippa & Julia business has been particularly strong. It’s a brand that continues to resonate more and more with our customers. Working closely with Nordstrom and to some extent with Dillard’s has really helped. There’s definitely a Pippa & Julie girl, and you can see it in our fan base. Laura Ashley has also been performing well. In terms of licensing, there’s very few brands we could’ve worked with that we would’ve enjoyed as much as that one. It’s just

so iconic. How do you say no to taking on that license? It’s a name people know, and in times when people are hesitant to spend money, they go back to things they feel comfortable with and have loved for a long time. Laura Ashley has that resonance. Marmellata, which is more of the strict special occasion brand of party dresses, has also been performing well this year.

And that’s despite an overall shift toward casual fashion.

Why exactly has your company been able to defy this trend?

Fran: There’s still a demand for special occasion wear. People have special moments in their lives that they want to celebrate, and they want to be dressed properly for them. Not every day is a jeans day. I think the casual versus dressy is bit cyclical, as well. In all the years I’ve been in this business, dressy has been important at times and less important at others, but it’s always been there. What we try to do is simply be the best at whatever end of the spectrum the trend is leaning. When people are buying less dressy, they are still buying our dresses, which we are able to infuse more casual aspects into the designs.

What are some notable special occasion trends of late?

Fran: In our labels and Laura Ashley, there’s a focus on natural fibers (particularly cotton) and certainly for spring. We’re also noticing this year that there’s a lot more of that in other segments of the market.

Another divergent trend that has a dressy look is long skirts, either tealength or ankle-length dresses. Special occasion dresses have gotten very special, and now we’re incorporating a lot of cotton to make for sweet, wearable dresses that look comfortable and are easy to wear and care for.

Julia: There’s also been a trend of having dresses with more embellishment and interest in the skirts. Embroideries are so popular right now, as they are in women’s. They’re a very significant part of our line this season.

In addition to being on trend, any other factors contributing to the company’s success this year?

Julia: It’s Fran’s designs. They’re special, and each piece is unique.

Every collection is designed, piece by piece and what speaks to her. I think that craftsmanship naturally attracts consumers. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been shopping and I’ve seen kids pull our dresses off the rack and parade around while hugging them. There’s just something about our designs—they’re made with love and passion.

That translates at the retail level.

Fran: We have a wonderful team. Everybody works so hard. It’s mostly (70 to 75 percent) women, and I think that working in a woman-owned business has been very validating and important to our employees. We really work well together. People who come here generally don’t want to leave.

Julia: We also strive to be a service-based company, making sure that everybody who we cross paths with feels taken care of. We’ve created a community in our office and want that feeling of inclusion to extend to our customers.

What is the biggest challenge facing the industry right now?

Julia: There’s so much product available and access to it right now.

When people are shopping online, sometimes it’s hard to tell whether something is of quality or if it’s just easy to access and cheap. Also, a lot of brands are doing a little bit of business while consumers continue to demand lower pricing. That’s not a sustainable business model for too long.

Fran: There are environmental concerns to consider, as well. What’s good for us and the planet long term. Although retailers and wholesalers want to sell as many goods as possible, as quickly as possible, we have to consider what’s good for our children’s future and even our grandchildren’s futures.

Speaking of selling as many goods as possible, how have your retail partners been coping with Amazon’s growing dominance?

Fran: I’m surprised at the level of conversation we are having with our buyers about business overall. It’s not just about what the top-selling items are. They’re thinking in a much higher gear now. They are looking at ways to keep their store brand relevant. The thinking is not >35

2017 SHOW DATES Atlanta Gift Show July 10-18 225 Unlimited AmericasMart Bldg 2 Showroom #1718

LA Market July 20-24 LA Mart Anne McGilvray Showroom #345 Las Vegas Market July 30-August 3 Anne McGilvray Showroom #C1090

Children’s Club August 6-8 New York, Javits Center

Dallas Apparel Market August 9-12 Klein Group Dallas World Trade Center Showroom #8280 Seattle Gift Show August 16-21 Real Toy and Beyond Showroom 200 SW Michigan Suite 204

NY NOW August 20-23 LA Kids Market New York, Javits Center July 31-August 3 Booth #5402 The Dressing Room California Market Center Showroom #A610

Minneapolis Gift Show August 4-8 Anne McGilvray Minneapolis Mart Showroom #378 Orange

SOUNDING OFF

Revolutionary Times VENDORS, REPS AND RETAILERS SOUND OFF ON HOW TODAY’S TURBULENT RETAIL CLIMATE IS FORCING THEM TO ADAPT. THE RETAIL LANDS CAPE is always changing. But the pace of change the past year is nothing short of dizzying. Just in the past month alone, Nordstrom announced it was exploring the possibility of going private, Amazon shelled out $13.7 billion to buy Whole Foods Market (and, in the process, give itself 450-plus storefronts across the United States) and Macy’s is considering renting out the roof of its Manhattan flagship as a public park.

It appears a tipping point has been reached as many traditional brick-and-mortar retailers reinvent their business models to keep pace with the digital shopping revolution. The mergers, the layoffs, the downsizings, the growth of direct-to-consumer platforms are all signs that enormous changes are afoot. While no one knows for sure what the landscape may look like if the dust settles, everyone must find ways to adapt to survive in a new retail world order.

EMBR ACE CHANGE

must also embrace change.

Those who reinvent, create experiential formats and establish the right mix of brands will prevail, she predicts. “There’s room for everyone, but the traditional, outmoded ways of doing business must be discarded in favor of the emerging model,” she says.

Trish Moreno, CEO, Little Giraffe believes the tilling under of the traditional retail model has everyone scrambling to find their center, which puts added pressure on domestic manufacturers like her company. With increases in minimum wages and higher supply costs in what is also increasingly a drop-ship business model, she says the company had to change how it goes about

14

E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

its business. It started with a powerful online campaign to increase brand awareness that’s been to the benefit of everyone selling Little Giraffe.

“We are also targeting unauthorized third-party sellers on various online sites so we can take control of the brand message and pricing, which helps protect our loyal brick-and-mortar retailers,” Moreno says.

Moreno believes retailers

SOCIAL BENE FITS

Kristin Nystrom, founder, Gardner and the Gang

believes the rapidly evolving business of kids’ fashion has made the company reliant on social media to get the word out.

“Our marketing budgets are focused on influencers and fast, short lead media,” Nystrom says. “The importance is in the engagement they have with their followers. It’s really an opportunity to build direct contact with our customers.”

TE CH SAVVY

It’s most definitely not business as usual, according to Sandra Martinez Roe, owner, In Play Showroom.

While she says customer service continues to be a key business tenet, you need to go the extra mile these days.

“We’re aiming to be more efficient because we know everyone is wearing a lot of hats these days and time is precious for everyone,” Martinez says, noting the company has invested in software that facilitates everyday transactions between customers, reps and brands. “We no longer own file cabinets; everything is online and customers can reorder quickly and brands don’t need to call to confirm orders.”

Martinez also cites the influence of social media as shaking up how business is done today.

“The consumer is much more

aware of brands, trends and company messaging,” she says.

To that end, In Play Showroom does all it can to supply its retailers with marketing support, including branded window displays, images they can easily upload and share on websites and social media feeds, giftwith-purchase items and more.

“This drives business to our retail customers, increases brand awareness and it help us stay connected with our clients and their communities,” Martinez says.

DOUBLIN G DOWN

Michael Newell, co-owner, Hansel & Gretel Boutique plans to continue to offer personal service and unique merchandise. “We believe our years of experience in advising on the latest fashions, offering extras like free gift wrapping and our

reputation built up over generations will help sustain us through these challenging times—just like it has done in previous ones,” he says.

Located approximately halfway between St. Louis, MO, and Memphis, TN, Hansel & Gretel regularly draws customers from both cities, driving the 150 to 200 miles to shop the unique selection boutique and, as Newell says, have them declare, “There’s no store even somewhat comparable to this in our city.”

SHOCK THERAPY

Jamara Ghalayini, owner, Pumpkinheads cites a new law instituted last year that increased the minimum value on imported goods without duties or tariffs from $200 to $800 as having forced his Los Angeles-based store to rethink

its business model—immediately. “European competitors instantly started selling goods at prices up to 30 percent less.,” he says, noting brands like Petit Bateau were being sold by online dealers like Melijoe, Alex and Alexa and Childrensalon for less than wholesale. “No U.S. retailer could compete and it killed our online business. It drove us to seek out luxury U.S. and Scandinavian brands not found on these sites.” He cites Le Big as an great example.

“We’ve also greatly expanded our accessory and gift offerings, going deep on brands like Iscream, Bari Lynn, Chibella, Living Royal and Bling2o,” Ghalayini says, adding, “Things have started to even out with close monitoring of the pricing on European sites, but our web business has yet to fully recover.”

HOT PROPERTIES

Sweet ‘n’ Sporty

Joining Forces THE STAR WARS x Po-Zu footwear collection will touch down in select stores this August—just in time for the much anticipated release of the next installment, The Last Jedi, this December.

The collection features a range of sustainable footwear, including casual boots and sneakers, inspired by the main characters in the Star Wars films under license with Lucasfilm and Disney.

“We are excited to launch Autumn/Winter ’17 and the Star Wars range,” says Sven Segal, Po-Zu founder and CEO. “This collaboration is a fantastic opportunity for Po-Zu to drive profile on an international scale.”

The kids’ collection ranges from size 12.5 to 3.5 and will be available for international distribution. Suggested retail spans from $107 to $158.

16

E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

SUGAR PLUM NY, a leader in girls’ dresses and children’s apparel for more than three decades, is jumping into the athleisure market for girls and boys under the Heelys brand name. Pantented in 1999, Heelys made its mark with shoes featuring wheels inserted into the heels of kids’ shoes.

“We are absolutely thrilled to partner with the Sequential Brands Group as the timing, vision and synergy with their team is perfect,” says Michael Fallas, president and owner of Sugar Plum NY. The initial offerings will feature girls’ skorts, leggings, capris, shorts, tank tops, T-shirts and hoodies in a variety of exclusive vibrant prints, solids and dynamic combinations of both. Fabrics include jersey, French terry and Lycra, making it soft and comfortable. The girls’ line will launch in Spring ’18, with boys’ to follow that holiday season. Targeted for department, sporting and specialty stores, the suggested retail price range is $24 to $48.

Care Package IN HONOR OF Care Bears 35th anniversary, children’s moccasin company Freshly Picked has released a first-ever collaboration with the brand. The five Care Bears x Freshly Picked styles are currently being sold direct-to-consumer on the company’s website and will begin distribution in Nordstrom next month and ultimately other mass and specialty retail locations.

“We’ve been loving nostalgia, so the collabs that we are putting out in the next six to 12 months are dripping with it,” says Susan Petersen, founder of Freshly Picked.

She adds that with respect to Care Bears, her personal affinity to the brand made the decision that much easier. The cheery collection of colorful moccasins come in sizes 1 to 7, retailing for $60.

Over the Rainbow GENIUS BRANDS INTL. has teamed with three new licensing partners—Bentex Group, H.E.R. Accessories and Jay Franco— to support its upcoming animated preschool series Rainbow Rangers, which will premiere in the fall of 2018. The new show is described as a mission-based, action adventure series for girls promoting female empowerment.

It’s essentially the girls’ alternative to PAW Patrol.

“We are impressed by prior license business each of these companies has accomplished and the breadth to which it was developed,” says Stone Newman, president of global consumer products, worldwide content sales and marketing, Genius Brands Intl. “This creates for multiple looks, multiple collections and unique elements for each retailer, which is so important.”

As the master apparel partner, Bentex Group will develop a comprehensive fashion collection in a wide range of kids’ sizes that highlights each of the Rainbow Rangers. Meanwhile, H.E.R. Accessories will create a variety of trendy merchandise, including watches, jewelry and hair accessories. Jay Franco will make a line of bedding, room décor, bath textiles and accessories that will turn fans’ bedrooms into Rainbow Rangers rooms.

Apparel is slated to start hitting shelves during the Fall ’19 back-to-school season, with a hard launch set for Holiday.

(The suggested retail price range and distribution are still to be determined.)

Newman adds that the company also plans to launch a Rainbow Rangers line of toys with Mattel in the spring of 2019.

@pippaandjulie www.pippaandjulie.com

TREND WATCH Hello Simone dress

That ’70s Show THE ’70S WAS a decade of tumultuous change. The fight for equal rights, anti-war protests, the oil embargo, the Watergate scandal, the rise of disco, the punk rock rebellion—Americans were torn and frayed, and fashion was no exception. The influential (and groovy) era left its mark with bell bottoms, maxi dresses, butterfly collars, hot pants and platform shoes—all iconic looks that have continually cycled in and out of fashion in the decades since. Over the last few seasons, especially, ’70s fashion trends have been as hip as a whirl through Studio 54 in its heyday.

The decade has certainly trickled down to children’s, spanning iconic colors, prints and silhouettes. To that end, buyers can expect to see a palette of blush pinks, refined grays, mid-tone blues, mustards and muted reds to carry into at least Fall ’18. Experts note it’s just easy to sell parents—and grandparents—on the nostalgia of the ’70s. Whether it’s authentic reissues or reimagined inspirations, the ’70s look to frock on for seasons to come. —Emily Beckman

Djeco mobile

Milk & Biscuits Oeuf NY sweater

Easy Peasy drawstring bag

18

E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

Emile et Ida jumpsuit

Tambere dress

Gabriel et Valentin vest

Jacadi cardigan

Jellycat plush

N°74 backpack

Shoo Pom shoes

Sergent Major shorts

Ketiketa beanie

Du Pareil Au Même turtleneck

Ă Ā ā Ĉ ƫ

ƫ đ ƫ E A R N S H AW S .C O M

19

TREND WATCH

Boboli vest

Tiny Whales hat

Emile et Rose

Art & Eden dress

Jessica SImpson shoe

Holiday Spice FOR HOLIDAY ’17, you can’t go wrong with the classics. (Think red, green, metallics and whimsical character prints.)

Kids (and parents) these days are also more apt to mix-and-match casual and dressy garments to curate their own unique style. Therefore, it’s advantageous to offer a tiered selection from playful shearling-lined booties to traditional petticoat frocks.

It’s also wise to be ready—for anything—this holiday season. Surveys indicate that nearly seven in 10 consumers prefer multiple ways to shop for items and nearly all expect free shipping. In fact, free shipping was the most used promotion last holiday season—more than coupons or discounts. The power of product reviews and gift guides also continue to grow in importance. Mobile searches on Google related to “best” have increased more than 50 percent in the last year.

On that note, here’s some of the “best” items on the Earnshaw’s radar for this holiday season. —E.B.

20

E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

Emu Australia boot

Anthem of the Ants leggings

Lili Gaufrette skirt

Jusbe dress Little Me dress

Angel Dear one-piece

Elegant Baby bib

Books To Bed pajamas

Mud Pie tote

3 Marthas burp cloths

Ă Ā ā Ĉ ƫ

ƫ đ ƫ E A R N S H AW S . C O M

21

Puma cap, Project 6 NY collar, We Love Colors tights, Popatu bag, Kid’s Dream dress, Florsheim shoes; Dal Lago blazer and bow tie, Kwadusa shirt, E-Land pants, model’s own shoes; Lorena Canals rug (on wall).

23

Blush dress, Project 6 NY feather collar, We Love Colors gloves, Happy Feet socks, Florsheim shoes.

Opposite page: Biscotti dress, We Love Colors gloves, Lily Nily bracelet, model’s own headscarf; Lorena Canals rug (on wall).

24

25

From left to right: Kid’s Dream jacket, Biscotti dress, We Love Colors tights, Nine West gold shoes; Project 6 NY headband, Sophie Catalou dress, Heart Me Jewelry necklace, We Love Colors pink gloves and tights, Jacadi red shoes; People’s Project jacket, Idol Mind dress, We Love Colors tights, Florsheim shoes; Calla Collection suit, shirt and bow tie, Project 6 NY collar; Joan Calabrese dress, Project 6 NY collar and headband, We Love Colors tights, Nanette Lepore shoes; Idol Mind metallic jumpsuit, River & Rosy headband, We Love Colors tights; Hannah Banana dress, E-Land skirt (under dress), Wee Ones headband, We Love Colors tights, Jacadi shoes; Little Lids hat, Project 6 NY bow tie, Del Lago suit and shirt; Lorena Canals rugs (on floor).

26

27

28

Little Lids hat, Appaman suit, E-Land shirt, Dal Lago tie. Opposite page: Raspberry Plum dress and skirt, Wee Ones bow, We Love Colors tights, Nine West shoes; Lorena Canals rug (on wall).

29

Esme headband, Kapital K dress, We Love Colors tights. Opposite page: Halabaloo floral dress, We Love Colors gloves, Puma leggings, Jacadi shoes; Project 6 NY headband, Dehry Kids dress, Loredana skirt (under dress), We Love Colors dress, Florsheim shoes; Lorena Canals rug (on wall).

Hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/ Utopia the Agency, NYC; Set design

by Sara Foldenauer/Ray Brown Productions.

30

fashion.REVISE.indd 30

7/21/17 3:08 PM

31

HAUTE TOPICS

E D I T O R’ S P I C K S

Tree by Kerri Lee door hanger

Joules slippers

DESIGNER CHAT S TAC Y R O S E N & H I L A R Y R O S I N K R A N Z MODERN QUEEN KIDS CLOSE FRIENDS FOR more than 20 years, Stacy Rosen and Hilary Rosinkranz bonded through years of travel, living abroad (separately) and their mutual passion for fashion, design and the importance of family. The relationship reached another level in June 2015 with the co-founding of Modern Queen Kids, a luxury children’s accessory brand recognized for its hand-crafted jewelry, modern crowns, whimsical necklaces and fanciful cuffs and collars.

Rosinkranz says the company’s latest collection for Fall ’17, dubbed “In The Clouds” is inspired by the exquisite detailing of Parisian haute couture, the beauty of luxurious European vintage textiles and the magic of the Modern Queen Kids’ kingdom. Items include sparkling jewelry, fanciful capes, shoulder epaulettes, stunning cuffs and exquisite collars fit for a queen. Layers of tulle, delicate pleats, velvet ribbons, beading, bows, ruffles and sparkle are woven throughout the line.

“We hope to bring the true magic of haute couture to kids’ fashion through our luxury creations,” Rosen says, noting that each season’s design process typically begins with the duo sitting down with the latest vintage trims, textiles, photos and trinkets they have collected during their recent travels. “We usually begin designing independently and then bring all of the ideas and samples together in collaborative work sessions,” she adds.

Based near Malibu, CA, Modern Queen Kids is all made in the U.S., with suggested retail prices from $78 to $198. In less than two years, the company has attracted a celebrity following, including several A-list actresses. Most recently, the daughters of Rebecca Gayheart and Tori Spelling were spotted adorned in Modern Queen treasures.

“A few more high-profile celeb daughters will be wearing our pieces in public very soon,” Rosen hints. Also in the works, she adds, is an expanded product line, more brand videos and even a Modern Queen TV series and children’s picture book. —Emily Beckman

32

E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

My 1st Years playmat

Catch Some Zzz’s From hand-painted door hangers to cozy slippers, the gift of slumber is always in season.

How would you describe the Modern Queen design ethos?

Rosen: Open your eyes to the beauty around you and discover the magic in your world.

Is there a perfect accessory? Rosinkranz: Anything that makes a girl beam with joy when she puts it on! Seeing the world through our children’s eyes inspires every piece we create. There is something magical that happens when a little girl adorns herself with a dreamy necklace, a sparkly crown and a fanciful collar. Her world lights up and her imagination takes flight.

Who are some designers you admire? Rosinkranz: We’re obsessed with Chanel, Valentino, Lanvin, Gucci, Saint Laurent and Giambattista Valli. Their extraordinary artistry, craftsmanship and exquisite attention to detail are a source of ongoing inspiration.

POM

What might you be doing if you weren’t designing children’s accessories? Rosen: Traveling and relaxing a bit more. Running your own business requires great sacrifice. This is especially true when you are also a Mom and homeschool your children, which both Hilary and I do. There isn’t a lot of extra time in the day, but it’s all worth it when it’s something you are passionate about.

What celebrity would you like to see in one of your designs?

Rosen: We’d love to see our creations worn by the daughters of style and beauty icons Gwyneth Paltrow, Sarah Jessica Parker and BeyoncÊ.

What do you love most about your job? Rosinkranz: Spreading love, light and hope to so many people through our creations, campaigns and brand videos.

COME VISIT US AT NY NOW | BOOTH 7062 SHOP WADDLEANDFRIENDS.COM | SALES@WADDLEANDFRIENDS.COM

WADDLE_EARNSHAWS_JUNE_JULY.indd 1

6/23/17 9:33 AM

Handcrafted Natural Dolls www.ciaobimba.com /ciaobimbadolls

@ciaobimba.dolls

/CiaoBimbaDolls

062017_Earnshaws_ThirdVertical_2.pdf 1 6/21/2017 10:56:59 AM

BEHIND THE SEAMS

Told by Design Fiveloaves Twofish taps success from classic holiday to custom prints.

NEARLY A DECADE ago, SoCal sisters Heather Haas and Kit Kuriakose merged their passions for design, history and storytelling into a whimsical brand of girls’ clothing. Named after a biblical story that conveys the importance of helping the local community, Fiveloaves Twofish continues to uphold its founding principles. The duo is proud to report fabric scraps from cutting garments are still always reused and all operations have remained in the U.S. While Kuriakose says it’s getting “harder and harder” to manufacture in California affordably—the suggested retail price ranges from $25 for hand-drawn screen tees to $120 for dresses)—she and her sister believe their customers recognize Fiveloaves Twofish for its ethical standards and are willing to pay the extra few bucks for a quality, Americanmade garment. “Our customers want to buy a brand that’s being made responsibly,” Haas says. “They want to know that this clothing is going to be a hand-me-down to a niece, nephew or grandchild.”

As for design inspiration, Fiveloaves Twofish is known to hop across the pond often. “We love European themes, albeit not too serious,” Kuriakose says. “We try to have the chic appeal of European style but still integrate the whimsical nature of American kids’ fashion.” Each season the duo produces four storylines, inspired by anything from travel to childhood experiences.

Adept at anticipating trends, last fall the co-founders test marketed a return of traditional green- and red-themed holiday attire.

The collection served as a rebuke to what’s become an almost ubiquitous departure from

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

34

E A R N S H AW S . C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

traditional colors and styling in this seasonal category. The verdict? It was a big hit. “It was the right time,” Kuriakose says. “People were ready for the non-reinterpreted holiday and straight up say, ‘I’m totally wearing a red dress, and I’m OK with it.’” Haas believes that the success might have also tapped into a growing consumer sentiment that longs for more meaningful relationships. “Everyone’s on social media and their phones, but it’s like they’ve become disconnected with face-toface relationships,” she says, noting, “I think traditional holiday symbolizes family around the table together and a classic approach to fashion can help foster that feeling.”

The duo has doubled down on the approach for this holiday by re-launching the “Home for the Holidays” collection as a core seasonal offering, as well as introducing another classicthemed collection, “A Girl in Her Winter Wonderland.” As for Spring ’18, Haas says all prints will be custom for the first time, and a new drop-waist silhouette and skort option have been added to the mix. The new prints will feature a Valentine-loving parrot with roses, hearts and macaroon cookies; a Marie Antoinette-inspired print featuring 18th century princesses along with their fanciful shoes, sofas and dogs; an Easter story with a girl in a field of lavender; and a California coast print depicting a surfer girl in front of the Hotel del Coronado. “We offer the fitand-flair from baby up to tween—we just do it differently,” Haas says. “It can be done in a super whimsical print with a big petticoat skirt, and when the child gets older it’s more sophisticated and we may or may not take the petticoats out.” —Emily Beckman

Q&A continued from page 13

just limited to upper management; it’s people at every level: buyers, analysts, salespeople, etc. It’s really encouraging to see that. Similarly, we feel it’s important to provide our retailers with as much collateral as possible. That has become a big focus for us. A large part of Julia’s job is managing our photo shoots that show our dresses as they live, not just in static form. We would like to project as much of our experience here to the world outside, so that they can get a sense about what we do.

Julia: When you look at how retail is evolving, we talk about experiences and extra value that we can provide to our retail partners. For example, we’ve been doing a lot of in-store events and making sure to add that kind of extra value to them. Anything we can do differentiate the experience from shopping online, in a good way, and make people leave the convenience of their house we help with. I think that approach definitely speaks to the future of department stores.

That said, you launched an e-commerce site for Pippa & Julie at the end of 2015. How has that been performing?

Julia: We designed it to create a halo around the brand online.

It’s really allowed us to create more of the culture on the web of what Pippa & Julie is about. And since we launched, our sales numbers are way up with most of our retailers. It has enhanced their businesses. We’re certainly not trying to undersell our retailers. We started as a wholesale company, and we plan to continue primarily as one working with our valued retail partners. That’s where our loyalty lies, first and foremost.

How do you see retail evolving over the next five to 10 years?

Fran: That’s the big question…If any of us had the answer to it, we’d be rich!

Julia: You have a generation of youth that has access to, not just fashion, but art and ideas in a way that we didn’t have when I was growing up. That’s why we’re determined to be as transparent as possible. We want to our customers to know all about us and thoroughly understand how are clothing is made.

For example, where, the types of materials, our sustainability efforts, etc. We will be introducing new programs soon that help in that effort. With any luck, that will beget a generation of conscious, smart shoppers that will want to buy beautiful items in the best way possible.

Fran: Along those lines, I love that people increasingly feel free to make what they wear their own. Some of my favorite pictures on our Instagram feed are little girls wearing our big fancy dresses with sneakers or Dr. Martens—making the look their own. I love when fashion becomes individualized, and I only see that trend growing stronger in the years ahead.

Julia: Making a look your own is also good advice for any store or brand to follow. Keep it special. Whatever is special about your brand or store, be that and don’t try to be other peofb[Êi XhWdZi eh ijeh[i$

Ă Ā ā Ĉ ƫ

ƫ đ ƫ E A R N S H AW S .C O M

35

WHAT’S SELLING

What are your bestselling brands of late? Petite Adele, Tip Top Kids and Ooh! La, La! Couture. For christening and communion, Christie Helene and Macis Design perform particularly well. I also sell a lot of Haute Baby in my layette section. For hair accessories, Melina’s Bowtique is outstanding; her handmade flowers are top-notch.

Is this year as challenging for brick-and-mortar retailers as is being reported? Yep, it’s awful. I mean, if I would have stayed doing what I began as, there’s no way I could have survived. It’s difficult because you have so many online spaces that offer free shipping back and forth, and they have sales going on that you can use a coupon. So people say, ‘Why would I go down to the boutique that I know is going to be $50?’ And, ‘Why waste gas to pay more money when I can have it on Amazon the next day?’ It’s very difficult to survive in retail alone.

How, exactly, then are you surviving? I found the niche in the market that sells best. You’re not going to buy a communion dress online. Some people buy flower girl dresses online, but most people prefer coming in to really see the details. I feel that I’m not in as much danger now because the inventory I’m focusing on typically requires the customer to see it in-person. Beyond my brand selection and customer service, I’d also say customization is helping me survive. I do custom outfits for birthday girls, flower girls and any other special events. I’ll even make custom matching shirts for a trip to Disney or a unicorn-themed party.

I do a lot of one-on-one work. My most popular request is embroidered christening outfits.

Tutu Spoiled Lyndhurst, NJ

E

VERY LITTLE GIRL becomes a princess upon walking into Tutu Spoiled,” owner Jessica Snarski says. Doused in bubblegum pink from floor to ceiling and complemented by a bright white wardrobe and matching shelving, this special occasion boutique serves an infant-to-tween clientele in the form of a girl’s dream closet. A rainbow of tulle skirts dust the walls with accents of ribbon, rhinestones and glitter throughout the 800-square-foot space.

“While some children’s boutiques are more old-fashioned, I keep mine fun and modern,” Snarski says, adding, “I get constant compliments on the décor.”

Snarski opened the store in 2013, a big move from the children’s e-commerce shop she launched after her daughter was born eight years ago. Since opening, Snarski has tweaked her offerings from a mix of casual and formal attire to exclusively becoming a destination for special occasion frocks. Prices range from $50 to $120 for a regular party dress all the way up to $550 to $1,000 for christening and communion outfits. “I noticed that is where people are willing to spend the money,” she says. “They’ll spend any amount, especially on their first.”

From christenings and communions to weddings and even glamorous birthdays, Snarski takes pride in providing the utmost customer service with a curated selection of quality brands and customizable options. “I love helping my customers create the perfect outfit,” she says. “I like to feel they’re not going to find the service I provide anywhere else.” —Emily Beckman

36

E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ

ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ

Where do you draw inspiration for you buys? I spend a lot of time online looking at Instagram, Pinterest and even just a simple Google search on weddings. I also attend trade shows (primarily Children’s Club) and visit showrooms to select only the best of the best.

Any personal guidelines when buying special occasion apparel?

I avoid dark colors. I cannot sell a brown or black dress for a little girl.

The only time a red dress performs well is right around the holidays.

However, if I don’t sell it then, it won’t move. I keep that in mind—and no overbuying!

Anything new in the pipeline for your business? I’m testing something different this summer. Most boutiques are open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. This summer, I’m going to have my hours be by appointment only. I will be there often as I always have something to do with my custom orders, but customers will have to make an appointment to come in. Instead of the normal hours posted on my website, Facebook and Google, the description will say ‘by appointment only.’ I’ll have a sign up through Facebook and Instagram. A lot of people go on vacation in the summer, so I’m just going to test it out and see how it goes.

Any advice for fellow independent retailers? Always be innovative.

Change with the trends. If something’s not working, it’s time to come up with something else. You can’t be stubborn trying to sell casual, for example, if it’s not working. Try selling something else. If selling wholesale collections isn’t working, try custom orders. That’s how I survived—just trying to be innovative and staying on trend. Also, you can’t survive without having a website. If I didn’t have a website, no one would find me. They would have no idea where I am. That’s the basics: stay on trend, be innovative and get a website.