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ENCHANTED BEAUTY SPECIAL OCCASION WEAR SWEEPS INTO FOCUS
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Spring ’20 Pitti Recap Luna Luna’s Leading Lady ’80 S FL AS H BACK
Stranger Things
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JULY 2019 CONTENTS
Noelle Heffernan Publisher
F EATURES
Emily Beckman Editor
8 The Magic Touch Founder Heidi Maria Schwarck reveals how Luna Luna Collection’s enchanted aesthetic blends with its socially responsible manufacturing model . By Emily Beckman
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor
16 Practice Makes Purchase Three moms share what, when and how they shop for their kids. By Emily Beckman
Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor
18 You’ve Got a Trend Spring/Summer ’20 looks hot off the runways of Pitti Immagine Bimbo. By Emily Beckman
Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager
ADVERTISING
PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager
20 Through the Looking Glass The magic of special occasion wear for holiday blooms forth in enchanting detail. By Mariah Walker
Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE
DEPA RTM EN TS
Greg Dutter Editorial Director Carroll Dowden, Chairman Mark Dowden, President & CEO
PAGE 20
4 Editor’s Note 6 Scene & Heard 12 Trend Watch 14 A Note to My Younger Self 30 Designer Chat 32 Behind The Seams 34 What’s Selling 36 Final Cut
Caroline Diaco VP/Group Publisher
Agnes Alves, Controller 9Threads One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018
On cover: Julia wears dress by Joan Calabrese. Photographed in the Samalayuca Dune Fields, Mexico, by Zoe Adlersberg/See Management; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department, NYC.: styling assistance by Khalila White.
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sets by Polux Fleuriste; hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/Utopia using Oribe products for hair and Milk Makeup; styling assistance by Khalila White.
This page: Jordan wears suit and hat by Appaman and Molo graphic shirt.
EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Wainscot Media, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Wainscot Media. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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Children’s Fashion and Footwear – 0 to 16 years ATLANTA • CHICAGO • DALLAS • LOS ANGELES • NEW YORK • MONTREAL • TORONTO • VANCOUVER
MAYORAL USA INC. Miami FL T 305.779.4305 mayoral.usa@mayoral.com
EDITOR’S NOTE
The Kids are Alright KIDS TODAY… THAT age-old expression usually has negative conpackages of toiletries, snacks and items for warmth to people living notations—that young people aren’t as driven to succeed and wellon the streets in her state. Over the past four years, Snuggle Sacks has mannered as previous generations. Today’s youth—Generation Z (those delivered more than 9,000 kits and developed partnerships with every born between the mid ’90s and mid ’00s)—are often condemned as shelter in a six-county radius of its warehouse in Fenton, MI. Most lazy, entitled, spoiled and so addicted to their smartphones that their recently, the organization partnered with the Michigan Department brains are being rewired and their spines re-curved. On the other hand, of Human Services, broadening Goss’ distribution of hygiene prodthis generation is self-confident and autonomous—they do not rely ucts, coats and gloves to kids through area food banks. “We all have on their parents as much as previous teen generations. Some of these learned how rewarding it feels to make change and help those less kids, in fact, exhibit an entrepreneurial drive to rival that of Oprah and fortunate,” Goss stated in our interview. “You’re never too young to Steve Jobs. But unlike previous generations that followed make a difference.” the Greed is Good dogma, they are helping usher in a form This issue’s Final Cut (p. 36) profiles Wisconsin native of conscientious capitalism where doing good is as much Jonah Larson, an 11-year-old crochet prodigy who has a part of the equation as good business. turned his hobby into a fundraising juggernaut. To date, he Since introducing Final Cut, our department that prohas raised more than $20,000 for the Ethiopian orphanage files dynamic kids making a name for themselves as actors, from which he was adopted as an infant. The sixth grader startup execs and political activists (and in some cases all has traveled the country promoting his non-profit and will three), I’m increasingly encouraged about the future of soon speak at the Ethiopian Embassy in New York. Larson’s America and the world. That’s not an easy way to feel these social media following has mushroomed to more than Naomi Wadler days up against a divided electorate and a rise of nationalist 191,000 on Instagram and 45,000 subscribers on YouTube. leaders around the world who smack of fascism. But over The philanthropic entrepreneur has launched his own line the past year the kids we’ve profiled present a hopeful and of merchandise, including T-shirts with witty phrases like inspiring alternative, driven not by race, nationality, gender “Bro-chet” and “Crochet Away.” Larson also just released or the almighty dollar, rather they are motivated by how his autobiography Hello Crochet Friends, named after they can change the world for the better. his catchphrase that begins each of his YouTube tutoriThey include Naomi Wadler, an 11-year-old activist als, and is working with Anthropologie on a collection of (August 2018) who captured the world’s attention when 12 crochet-based styles for this fall. Oh yeah, he also has Addisyn Goss she rallied for legislation to prevent gun violence in front plans to become a surgeon, so he can perform free operaof 200,000 attendees at the March for Our Lives event in tions to people who cannot afford the procedure. Larson’s Washington, D.C. (She first made headlines when she and a advice to other kids chasing their dreams: “Do whatever classmate organized a walkout at her elementary school a you love. Do what keeps you happy. And just keep trying, month after school shootings in Florida and Alabama, and it no matter what.” went viral.) Wadler spoke eloquently, shedding light on the Kids say the darndest things. Only in the case of our lack of media attention women of color receive as victims Final Cut profiles, there are no double entendres or silly of gun violence. Her tour de force performance attracted insights. It’s out of the mouths of babes type wisdoms. Jonah Larson high-profile fans, like Sen. Kamala Harris and actor Tessa They are ahead of the time. They are driven to succeed Thompson, who tweeted, “Naomi Wadler is my president!” and well-mannered—just as much as anyone from previWadler continues to inspire her peers to take action. “Success isn’t ous generations. They are the opposite of lazy, entitled and spoiled. what your parents do—it’s what you do,” she stated in our interview. (Although, that smartphone addiction is likely true.) These kids are “Just remember you can be most powerful by just being the best you.” good-doers, leading by terrific example. They represent hope for the In our November 2018 issue, we profiled sixth grader Addisyn Goss, future. In a world where different generations too often don’t see eye who founded her own non-profit homeless outreach program, Snuggle to eye, we can learn a great deal from kids like Naomi, Addiyson and Sacks, which has raised more than $10,000 worth of clothes and supJonah. These kids are alright. In fact, they’re more than alright—these plies. The Michigan native was inspired to create “survival kits,” small kids are extraordinary!
E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor
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VISIT US AT: Dallas, Atlanta, Los Angeles, Playtime, & NYNOW wholesale.elegantbaby.com @ elegantbaby
SC E N E & H E A R D
L anoosh Debuts New HQ ETHICALLY-MADE BRAND Lanoosh celebrated the opening of its redesigned headquarters and store front last month with a star-studded party. Disney Star Ava Kolker performed her new single “The Good
Ones” and singer/songwriter Denim Nicole ended the evening with a surprise performance of her new single “Lemonade.” Other notable attendees included Sheldon Bailey of Showtime’s Shameless, Adrian Dev of HBO’s Westworld and Alyssa de Boisblanc of ABC’s Modern Family. But the real star of the show was Lanoosh’s new headquarters, an interactive experience for fans of the made-in-the-USA brand. Customers can take selfies for social media with pop art installations or tour the space with one of Lanoosh’s designers and watch product made in real time. “This is the sort of experience you’ll never forget—something we constantly love highlighting in all of our IG stories,” says Zee Hovak, founder. Hovak hopes the new headquarters will inspire retailers to make fashion-forward purchases. “Some buyers are hesitant to evolve with the times and new trends that kids really want,” she says. “It’s important that when you do something, it makes people’s souls move and gets them excited about life!” Lanoosh’s Spring ’20 collection is aiming to do just that with a music and technology-inspired collection of fashion-forward looks. “Our margins have been growing each season, and we will keep pushing the boundaries of kids’ fashion to help inspire their creativity,” Hovak says.
Steiff Expands with Apparel CRAFTING HIGH-QUALITY plush since 1880, Steiff, the inventor of the teddy bear, is coming stateside with its new clothing and accessories collection. Partnering with U.S. rep Mark Jeynes of Little Monsters, the line will include playwear, swimwear and wellness items (SRP $6-$49) for babies up to size 7. “The link to our iconic Teddy is clear throughout the collection,” says Andreas Graf, business unit manager for Steiff Fashion, noting the frequent use of bear motifs in the apparel offerings. For Spring ’20, the iconic teddy sails out to
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sea with classic sailor stripes and nautical embroideries in blue, white and red colorways. Teddy also takes a colorful safari, snapping photos of fellow Steiff animals. For girls, Steiff has designed a “Bear Cherry” theme that includes dresses and shirts awash with cherries and pink hearts. After great feedback in Europe last year, Graf is enthusiastic about the company’s next chapter across the pond. “Steiff Fashion is such an exciting journey for us,” he says. “The combination of clothing with our toys will offer a larger world for customers to discover.”
Striking a Pose at Pitti
Kids attend the 89th edition of Pitti Immagine Bimbo in style.
MAKE A SPLASH WITH
Earnshaw’s Buyer Box! Leading up to the Spring ’20 trade shows, Earnshaw’s will ship a curated, summer-themed parcel to the doorsteps of 200 leading buyers nationwide! The latest swimwear, breezy dresses, bold boardshorts, rad rashguards and sunshine-ready accessories are just some of the key seasonal items retailers can peruse and get a jump on writing orders. In addition to detailed information of each participating brand, the Earnshaw’s Buyer Box will include a copy of our August “Swim” issue that dives deep into the season’s hottest trends, latest launches and business strategies. Limited space available. Secure your spot today!
Contact Noelle.Heffernan@9Threads.com for details. E A R N S H AW S .C O M
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Q&A
The Magic Touch BY EMILY BECKMAN
HEIDI MARIA SCHWARCK, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF LUNA LUNA COLLECTION, REVEALS HOW THE SPECIAL OCCASION BRAND’S ENCHANTED AESTHETIC BLENDS SEAMLESSLY WITH ITS SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE MANUFACTURING MODEL.
RAISED IN A land rich in folklore and fairytales, it’s as though Danish designer Heidi Maria Schwarck was born with pixie dust in her blood. Since 2004, Schwarck has delighted thousands of young girls with the ethereal aesthetic of her Luna Luna Collection special occasion dresses. It’s a fusion of Scandinavian simplicity and enchanted play that’s carved out a niche in the special occasion market that extends beyond a pretty palette of sweet silhouettes. Over the last 15 years, Barneys, Nordstrom’s, Neiman Marcus and an array of leading specialty
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boutiques nationwide have recognized Schwarck for both her design talents and her corporate social responsibility efforts. These days, good designs are just part of the business equation. How a company goes about manufacturing its goods with respect to sustainability, fair trade practices and cause-related marketing programs is equally important in the age of conscious consuming. “There’s a lot more to Luna Luna Collection than what meets the eye,” Schwarck says. For example, lining each garment with cotton or silky
satin is Luna Luna’s golden rule to never sacrifice comfort for style. “I try to use stretch whenever I can—stretchy seams, smocking, anything that will make the child more comfortable, and we source the softest, most eco-conscious tulle in the world,” she says. To ensure resources are recycled and the use of harsh chemicals forbidden, Schwarck travels at least four times a year to check in on Luna Luna’s factory partner in Indonesia. “Most people don’t realize every stiff tulle has been treated with formaldehyde,” she says, recalling the mysterious rashes she would get on her arms during her childhood ballerina days. To protect her customers, Schwarck banned the use of the chemical in her tutu dresses, which serendipitously gave the brand its signature softness. “It doesn’t matter if a child is dressing up for only a few hours—if something is itchy or uncomfortable, they’ll refuse to wear it for more than two seconds,” she says. Nothing warms her heart more than stories of how kids refuse to take off their Luna Luna dresses. “It’s the ultimate compliment!” Schwarck adds. As a mother of three, Schwarck’s concern for the well-being of the children who wear her garments extends to the artisans who craft them. When the designer learned that most of the beaders were single mothers commuting three to four hours everyday, she was heartbroken by the time away from their families. She decided to do something about it. Schwarck began to avoid beading on cross seams and other complex areas so the beaders can work on parts of a garment at home and get paid by the piece. “I couldn’t be someone who wanted to be with my children yet ripped that opportunity from moms working for us,” Schwarck says. “This gives women— especially single moms—an opportunity to enjoy their children and make money. To say it’s been a rewarding program is an understatement.” Luna Luna has since expanded its responsible manufacturing efforts with the creation of a scavenger recruitment program in tandem with the debut of its hair accessories collection last year. Scavengers in developing countries like Indonesia work in dangerous, miserable conditions with little to no pay. It’s often a vicious cycle of poverty for them and their families. Again, Schwarck decided to do something about it. She introduced a program that teaches scavengers how to craft hair accessories out of Luna Luna’s cutting room floor scraps. The scavengers-turned-sewers are also encouraged to bring their children to work, so they can be inspired by opportunities beyond a life of scavenging. For Schwarck, the program is just how Luna Luna goes about its daily business. “We don’t blast these efforts as part of a marketing strategy—we’re not like Toms,” she says. “I just think it’s important to do what’s right, whenever you can.” The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts grad has done a lot right since arriving in Manhattan’s fashion scene in the early ’90s at 25 years old. She first made a name for herself in the women’s wear market, designing for industry leaders like Bill Blass, Tahari and Jones New
York. But it wasn’t until her family relocated to California, after the arrival of her third child (Luna), that Schwarck began dabbling in childrenswear design. Having checked out of the fast-paced, high-end fashion designer world to become a stay-at-home mom, Schwarck had no intentions of launching a dress company. Rather, she was casually designing hats for her bald baby daughter that caught the eye of neighborhood moms. “My first design had little ears with bows that made her look like she had pigtails,” Schwarck says. “Eventually, I was put in contact with an agent in Los Angeles, which helped spread the word.” Next up was placement in several high-end boutiques frequented by celebrities. Children of Tom Cruise, Halle Berry, Milla Jovovich and Kobe Bryant, to name a few, were photographed sporting Luna Luna. “That’s when we just exploded,” she says. Celebrating Luna Luna’s 15th anniversary this year, Schwarck is happy to report business is better than ever. She credits her loyal retail partners, first and foremost, for the company’s success, and is grateful for the wonderful relationships she’s built in the industry. “Luna Luna was launched from a place in my heart that makes it more than just a business,” Schwarck says. “I want my retailers to tell me all about their customers, what’s working, what isn’t, what they’re concerned about, because we’re in it together. Humanity is our brand DNA.” How’s business? Great! We’re stocked in hundreds of supportive retailers who tell our story so wonderfully. They make sure everyone knows our tutus aren’t treated with formaldehyde and are made by hand by hard-working women in Indonesia who bead every detail on every dress. Last year, we introduced hair accessories, which has been very successful. Luna Luna customers used to have to cart dresses back and forth from the accessories area to try and find a match. Now, that’s no longer necessary. Are retailers seeking more coordinating add-ons? Yes, and I think it’s a great idea. I suggest putting small accessories in a basket by the counter, because customers will just pick them up like lipstick. Also, while some people cannot afford a Luna Luna dress, it’s nice when they can purchase one of our beautiful hair accessories and still feel special that day. What’s your secret to creating successful designs? I name every new design, because each dress should have its own personality. This may sound crazy, but when I’m designing a new dress I always ask myself who she is and where is she going to be worn. Is it a first birthday party, a piano recital, a flower girl…if I can’t pinpoint where she is going, then it’s not a good design. It’s important to ask those questions because they are all special occasions and the dress must be truly special. Designing a dress isn’t just sitting there putting
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Q&A SMALL TALK First paying job: Nutella commercial child model. Most coveted dinner guest: Pierre Cardin. Dream employee: Cate Blanchett. Three items you can’t live without: My morning cappuccino, Muji pens and my laptop. Last book you read: Outliers by Malcolm Gladwell.
Last person you texted: My son. Your motto: Feel the fear, and do it anyway. Best business advice you’ve ever received: Follow your intuition. Greatest inspiration: My children. Best restaurant: Le Grand Véfour. Favorite place to shop: Tokyo.
Sweet Pea! SPRING 2020: BOTANY
@kickeepants #kickeepants kickeepants.com
bows on materials and making a “pretty” dress. It’s a lot more personal and detailed than that. Did your background in women’s fashion help your crossover into childrenswear? Absolutely! It helped having a general idea of what to expect, for starters. I knew the ropes and how navigate certain areas of launching a brand that would have otherwise been more difficult. I tried to use that experience to stay ahead of the game in production and customer service. I think the most nerve-wracking part of the transition from designer to entrepreneur was being completely self-financed. That’s a whole other level of responsibility and stress. Luckily, it turned out to be well worth it. There must have been some culture shock shifting from a corporate work environment to launching a business in your home. For sure. I’ll admit, it took some adjustment. I knew I wanted an office in my home, but you quickly learn that you’re constantly disturbed—kids, dogs, cats—you name it. I was lucky we had the space to set up part of the house as an office. As we grew and added employees, the kids learned that it took a broken arm to enter that office door. Seriously, I would never give up my first priority of
Q&A being a mom, and I love working from my home. I think many women forget how much of a privilege it is to raise your kids. I was able to stay hands-on, pick them up from school, take them to dance class—some of our best conversations happened in the car. Where do you look for design inspiration? I don’t think this industry is directed by trends, so I prefer to isolate myself and create from the inside. That’s why our campaign images are so important—it’s a way to show who the Luna Luna girl really is.
AUGUST 4 • 6, 2019 Metropolitan Pav. & Altman Building
Would you say kids’ fashion is becoming more sophisticated overall? I think it’s more about kids having the ability to show off their own personality, which is a byproduct of social media. You could argue everyone is a “brand” these days. Look at fashion shows and the bold personalities walking down the runways.
Fashion &
L
What’s been the most effective marketing tool for Luna Luna? Influencers are very important now. I’ve had many reach out to me, but I only work with those that seem to be true Luna Luna fans. Overall, I’ve had a great experience working with them and highly recommend up-and-coming brands to give that avenue a try.
Are your retail partners up to speed on social media? Not enough. I usually ask retailers if they have an Instagram account, and the response too often is: ‘Oh, I still have to figure that out,’ or ‘Oh, I meant to get that going last month.’ My best advice is to start now. Some of our retailers are doing amazing with great Instagram feeds. Elegant Child in Boca Raton, FL, is one example. They post every day. She has people reaching out to her constantly asking, ‘Do you have that dress?’ or ‘What’s new from my favorite brand?’ It’s extremely beneficial for sales. She’s even getting sales through direct messages on Instagram. Instead of sitting in your store waiting for people to walk through the door, you’re now able to get hundreds of customers going through that >35
ana galvan
How do you know what influencer is right for Luna Luna? Besides vetting them online, I try to meet them in-person, either at a trade show or other industry events. It’s nice to meet who you’re working with face to face in this very digitally driven world.
illustration
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A N O T E T O M Y YOU N G E R S E L F
Recipe for Success TERI LARSON, PRINCIPAL AND VICE PRESIDENT OF DESIGN FOR FLORENCE EISEMAN COMPANY, REFLECTS ON NEARLY FIVE DECADES OF PERSISTENCE AND PASSION. DEAR TERI…Little did you know that summer day in 1972, when you first walked through the factory doors of Florence Eiseman Company in Milwaukee, WI, you’d still be designing for the same brand nearly 50 years later! You just received your associate degree from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, where your home school, the University of Wisconsin-Madison, had an affiliate program. Deciding to search for a design job instead of return to Madison for your senior year, you discover Florence Eiseman Company is hiring. This is your big chance! You present your portfolio of children’s sportswear (your specialty) to Bob Eiseman, Laurie Eiseman and the great Florence Eiseman, better known as Mrs. E. At 72 years old, Mrs. E’s level of wisdom is awe-inspiring. That’s why when you’re told at the end of the interview that your designs don’t look “Eiseman” enough, you’re devastated. But don’t despair. It isn’t over yet. The team asks if you’d be willing to come back in a week with a new portfolio. Now for the best career advice I can possibly give you: Do it! You get the job. (Laurie tells you years later that it wouldn’t have mattered what you came back with because, just by returning, it proved to the team you had the drive they desired. It was all a test!) Mrs. E becomes your mentor. While small physically—4 feet, 11 inches tall, to be exact— her presence and talents are larger than life. You’ve never met someone with such exquisite taste in clothing (think Norman Norell and Mila Schön), as well as a penchant for good scotch and burnt chicken. Mrs. E will spend hours watching you drape in the days before computer-aided drawing. While she never tells you what to design exactly, she has a magical way of subtly passing on the Eiseman aesthetic: age-appropriate, clean lines, clear colors, whimsical appliqués, beautiful fabrics and quality construction. Before long, you’re nailing it. In 1986, the Eiseman family names you a vice president of the company—the first non-family member to become an officer. It’s time to get that passport updated! Labor costs become very competitive, and the children’s dressmaking business goes global. The company ventures beyond its Wisconsin-based manufacturing base
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for new opportunities. Mrs. E will travel with you to France, Germany, Switzerland and Hong Kong to buy the best fabrics and laces. Cherish the adventures. When Mrs. E passes away in 1988, it will feel like you have lost your favorite grandmother. It will be painful, but the thought that she lives in every garment you design brings solace to this day. A few years later, Bob and Laurie decide to sell the business. You will stay on though, the last link to Mrs. E’s unique aesthetic. But this is when you hit a rough patch in your career. The new owner hires a president who thinks a collaboration with NASCAR (huh!?) is a good match for Florence Eiseman. The company hits the skids and crashes into bankruptcy. But don’t lose hope. In 1999, Laurie will ask you and Frank Botto (then sales manager and president) to become partners in repurchasing the business. Florence Eiseman Company makes a triumphant return, led by Mrs. E’s vision of what quality children’s clothing should look and feel like. Sales get back up to speed and, in 2008, you’ll have a once-in-a lifetime opportunity to design baby clothes for President Barrack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama to give as gifts. You’ll even meet the First Couple in person! Outside of work, your life will be filled with plenty of ups and downs over the course of your career. You’ll marry, have two terrific boys, divorce, lose a son, end a relationship and remarry a great guy. Bob and Laurie, your kindest and most supportive bosses, will pass away, and long-time president, Frank, will retire. It’s how life goes. If there’s one takeaway in all this, it’s that you gather wisdom working through each challenge in life. Remember that. You’re a fighter and a survivor. Always follow your passion, stay authentic and know that you’ll be a stronger person tomorrow. I write this note to you as Florence Eiseman Company is about to celebrate its 75th anniversary with our new owners, Marina and Frank Krejci. You’re fortunate to work alongside employees who are talented, work hard and care so much about the brand’s authenticity and oneof-a-kind aesthetic. The memories we continue to create for countless families who pass down our beautiful clothes from one generation to the next is priceless. Mrs. E would be so proud.
’80s Rewind As Netflix rolls out the third season of Stranger Things, its hit paranormal/supernatural series set in the decade of Ronald Reagan’s America—when greed was good and neon fashions great—Earnshaw’s went into its own “Upside Down” (archives) to see if the show’s stylists got teen trends right. The year is 1985, a time when parachute pants, colorful windbreakers, oversized sweaters, high-waisted jeans, leg warmers, bomber jackets and Spandex ruled the landscape. Strangely enough, many of these fashion statements are resurfacing today! Cue the spooky Stranger Things theme song… BY E M I LY B E C K M A N
Photos courtesy of Earnshaw’s 1985 issue achives.
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MOMS SOUND OFF
Practice Makes Purchase THREE MOMS SHARE WHAT, WHEN AND HOW THEY SHOP FOR THEIR KIDS. RACHEL FOX, marketing manager and entrepre-
neur, Bentonville, AR. Daughters: Elsie, age 5, Eva, age 7; Son: Ethan, age 2. How often do you shop for your kids? Only if there is a need, otherwise I shop for birthdays, holidays and other special occasions. How important are sales? Very! I like to shop with some major retailers and local boutiques. I usually hit up the sales to make larger purchases of shoes, play clothes, jeans and socks. Places like Old Navy get me through a new season. We wait for sales at our local boutiques, but I do appreciate the slower fashion for its ethical, handmade quality. It’s great for passing items down. How much are you willing to pay? Anything under $17 for basics, $10 to $27 for shoes and up to $15 for accessories for store brands. For labels, ethical and slow brands, we spend $17 to $38. We typically invest more in dress shoes, formal wear and coats.
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What are your kids’ favorite brands? We love Lili Collection Shoes and Munchkin et Moi shoes. We also love Ittikid, Go Gently Nation, Alice + Ames, Shop ARQ, Pleiades Designs, Misha and Puff, Velveteen Clothing, Mabo, Wren and James, Tiny Cottons, Citizen Small Clothing, The Bee & The Fox and Tiny Remix.
Any looks you don’t like? I’m not a fan of neon colors or cartoon-y characters.
What trends attract your attention? I love the vintage-inspired rompers and dresses, but I also love pops of color and minimalist apparel. Artsy and fun patterns are another go-to of mine.
What is the biggest change in how you shop for your kids? Consignment shopping and Facebook Marketplace has become very popular. Our family loves it—especially for
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babies. Highchairs, cribs, all those big baby items we purchase secondhand. We also get a lot of baby clothing from consignment shops because it’s going to get spit-up all over it anyway. Last year, we bought brand new bunk beds for the girls from Facebook Marketplace!
will spend a bit more on shoes because getting the right shoe is important for foot development. I’ve spent around $55 for Wyatt’s shoes. Do you prefer shopping in stores or online? I prefer to shop online. It’s much easier than dragging two kids to the store, especially when they’re so young. What are your favorite retailers? Carter’s/ OshKosh have great sales and cute everyday items. I also love Target because they have everything at a great price. We’re big fans of Cat & Jack, Target’s private label for kids. I’d have to say I’m sad that Gymboree went out of business—I used to find the cutest tops there for Wyatt. VICKI SALGE, stay-at-home mom, Midland
Park, NJ. Sons: Cooper, two months old, and Wyatt, age 3. How often do you shop for your sons? For Wyatt, I only shop when there are good sales. However, I’ve been going out about twice a week to pick up last-minute items I forgot to get for Cooper before he was born. How important are sales? Very important! Even if we don’t need anything, I’m much more likely to at least take a look when there’s a sale. How much are you willing to spend? I don’t want to spend more than $30 on outerwear, basics or accessories. They grow too quickly! I
What’s your biggest shopping pet peeve? When the aisles are too narrow. It’s hard to maneuver around a ton of merchandise and end caps with a stroller and kids. Do you like assistance when you shop? Yes. Some days I just have trouble deciding and want another opinion. For instance, I love when employees help by grabbing multiple shirts that go with one specific pair of plaid shorts I picked out. Any favorite trends of late? I love bandana bibs and sleep sacks for babies. Aden + Anais’s muslin blankets are another favorite of mine. For toddlers, I go for anything with dinosaurs!
What’s your ideal price range? I purchase shoes for $20 to $60, basics for $15 to $20 and accessories under $20. For outerwear, I’ll spend a bit more, depending on the material and style. Do you shop in stores or online? Both. I particularly love supporting small businesses, and that includes small online boutiques. I enjoy shopping in stores because I need my son to try on the clothes. Kids sizes change so frequently, and each brand has different measurements. I only shop online if I know the brand very well.
blogger, Downey, CA; Son: Enzo, age 5.
What brands do you love? I love shopping online for Kickee Pants and Hatley at BelliestoBabiesBoutique.com. As for stores, I usually go to the mall where I can find Cotton On Kids and other basic brands.
How often do you shop for your son? Often. If I see something he needs or might need, I’ll purchase it right away.
What trend is on your radar? Prints! Enzo loves wearing sharks, animals and any cool yet unique styles.
MELISSA AQUIJE, sales account manager and
EUROPEAN TREND REPORT SPRING/SUMMER ’20
You’ve Got a Trend
Piccola Ludo
SPRING/SUMMER ’20 LOOKS HOT OFF THE RUNWAYS OF PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO. BY EMILY BECKMAN
Tuc Tuc
LOOSE ENDS
Fringe fun fit for wannabe cowboys and future festivalgoers.
Manila Grace
ALL IN ONE
A single-shoulder successor shrugs off last summer’s coldshoulder craze.
Cherrypapaya
IN THE CLEAR
THINK BIG
Oversize has gone into overdrive with styles spanning slouchy sweaters to capacious culottes.
Lace, mesh and sheer fabrics enhance layered looks by exposing a splash of pattern or color.
Play Up
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Amelie et Sophie
EXT R A, EXTRA!
Key accessories that complete the look.
Mayoral
GOOD JEANS
Abel & Lula
Classic denim hits refresh with soft and rich hues.
SILK SCARVES bring a pop of color to ponys and braids.
Amaya
Laranjinha
Phi Clothing
Embellished and embroidered,
STRAW HATS make a sun-worthy statement.
Monnalisa Patachou Play Up
UP AND DOWN
The high-low hem is making a comeback, billowing below summer skirts and dresses.
WHITE HOT
Simple, sophisticated and sensible for sunny days— bright whites keep little ones cool.
CROSSBODY BAGS fuse fashion with function.
E A R N S H AW S .C O M
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PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANNA PALMA IN BROOKLYN, NEW YORK. REI WEARS BONPOINT SEQUINED TOP, SIAOMIMI CAPE AND MOLO SKIRT.
magic of sPEcIAl occAsIon wEAR foR HolIdAY blooms foRtH In enchanting dEtAIl. tHE
STYLING BY MARIAH WALKER
P H O T O G R A P H E D
B Y
Anna Palma Zoe Adlersberg Meiko Takechi Arquillos
2 2 • E A R N S H AW ’ S • J U LY 2 0 1 9
COCO WEARS LULI & ME FLORAL DRESS OVER BONPOINT PATTERNED DRESS; JORDAN WEARS SUIT AND HAT BY APPAMAN, MOLO T-SHIRT, BONPOINT SHOES AND WE LOVE COLORS ORANGE SOCKS. STYLING BY MARIAH WALKER/ART DEPARTMENT, NYC; SETS BY POLUX FLEURISTE; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY CLELIA BERGONZOLI/UTOPIA USING ORIBE PRODUCTS FOR HAIR AND MILK MAKEUP; STYLING ASSISTANCE BY KHALILA WHITE.
•ANNA PALMA•
Photographer
2 4 • E A R N S H AW ’ S • J U LY 2 0 1 9
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PHOTOGRAPHED IN THE SAMALAYUCA DUNE FIELDS, MEXICO. JULIA WEARS COCO AU LAIT DRESS, PUMA SOCKS AND L’AMOUR SHOES BOOTS.
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SOPHIA WEARS BCBGIRLS DRESS, DAN DE FRAN SHOES AND FUN SOCKS SOCKS. STYLING BY MARIAH WALKER/ART DEPARTMENT, NYC: STYLING ASSISTANCE BY KHALILA WHITE.
2 8 • E A R N S H AW ’S • J U LY 2 0 1 9
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UILLOS•
PHOTOGRAPHED IN LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA. GRETA WEARS MADEMOISELLE À SOHO DRESS, FUN SOCKS STRIPED SOCKS AND L’AMOUR SHOES FLATS. OPPOSITE: DORRAN WEARS KENZO METALLIC SKIRT UNDER FLORAL DRESS WITH GREEN BOW BY BOWS ARTS. SET DESIGN BY DANIELLE WOOD; STYLING BY MARIAH WALKER/ART DEPARTMENT, NYC; STYLING ASSISTANCE BY KHALILA WHITE.
DESIGNER CHAT
a hit,” Scheer says, noting that the collection has already sold out. “We’re on track to sell out for fall as well—so don’t wait, book early!” —Aleda Johnson What’s the secret formula to Magnetic Me’s success? Scheer: Patience. We’ve had lots of ups and downs launching during the recession, but this is a resilient market. We’re fortunate to have a great idea that people love. We’re growing at a record rate, primarily focusing on our partnerships with boutiques. Levy: Our retail partners can count on us for the tools they need for marketing and reordering—anything we can do to make business easier for them. What makes Magnetic Me’s designs unique? Levy: We’re not fashion designers by trade, so we have our own take on things. We’re quirky and whimsical. We like to put lots of winks in our prints to keep things fun. You have to look closely for little twists.
M AG N E T I C M E
AFTER WRANGLING HER nephew to put on his bib, Lauren Levy was heartbroken when the Velcro tab got stuck in his hair, causing him to cry. That’s when the epiphany for a better solution came to mind: magnets. “I thought, why not make all the fasteners magnets, so they’ll not only be easy but won’t hurt at all?” she says. Approaching her lifelong college friend Lawrence Scheer with the idea, the pair quit their cushy Wall Street jobs to focus on research and development. Two years later, the duo had the makings of Magnetic Me: a collection of baby and children’s clothing featuring a patented system of magnets sewn securely into each garment for easy fastening and unfastening. “Parents should be spending more time playing with their babies,” Scheer says. “Not fiddling with snaps and zippers.”
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Despite launching in 2010, amid the fallout of the Great Recession, Magnetic Me became an instant hit. Almost 10 years later, the brand can be found in more than 2,000 specialty stores across the country. The technology is enhanced by soft materials, fun prints and a range of silhouettes and accessories for babies age newborn to 24 months. “We’re selling the technology first and foremost, but we want to appeal to as many parents as possible,” Levy says, explaining how small details like tread grips on the feet and elastic mitten cuffs are great add-on selling points. “We have something for parents who prefer trendy colors to those who are looking for something more traditional,” Scheer adds, listing popular prints like An Heir is Born, Dino Expedition and Globetrotter. For Spring ’20, Magnetic Me is making the switch to 100 percent, GOTS-certified organic cotton for all its styles in the same luxury weight. Each new print, like savanna animal-inspired Migration and the Best in Show puppy prints, are cheerful enough to keep even a 2 a.m. diaper change upbeat. The brand is also rolling out three-pack bibs in response to parents’ frequent request. “Our efforts to keep things fresh yet functional is turning out to be quite
What are your best-selling trends of late? Scheer: People have been more into unisex styles and neutral prints recently. We’re also constantly elevating our technology to stay relevant for moms and dads by applying our magnets to new designs. Levy: We’re also finding that black is the new black. Years ago people said you could never put black on a baby, and now they’re all doing it! What’s new and noteworthy? Scheer: We’re opening a showroom in New York’s Garment District soon! We’re also looking forward to leveraging some great ideas and refining our look going forward. I don’t want to give too much away, but we will be expanding and improving our brand presence in all channels while looking for new and surprising ways to make life easier for parents. What’s the best part about being a designer? Levy: I love hearing back from happy customers about how much our technology helps. Beyond the feedback we get from everyday parents, it’s extra special to hear stories from parents with babies who were in the NICU or parents with disabilities who would otherwise have had a hard time caring for their little ones. It’s an amazing feeling when we’re reassured by customers that our designs really do make life easier.
BE THE BUYER
BROUGHT TO YOU BY
Royal Treatment Jing Gao, buyer for Los Angeles-based boutique Crown Forever, on appealing to buyers in a digital world. ELEVATE YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA GAME We narrow down all the brands
we love by first looking at their social media presence. We review their followers, online persona and ethos. Does the brand interact well with its community? Is there heavy discounting that may conflict with its wholesale customers? The more followers, photos, engagement, etc. a brand showcases, the more attractive it is for us as a retail partner.
Don’t Wait— Nominate! It’s time to nominate our industry’s outstanding talent for an Earnie Award! Visit EarnieAwards.com to submit your favorite brands and retailers by August 1. For more information and sponsorship opportunities, email Noelle.Heffernan@9Threads.com
KNOW THY TRENDS In keeping up with the ever-evolving state
of fashion, we use a variety of modern tools in addition to our experience and intuition. We scour Instagram, Google analytics and Klaviyo email marketing metrics to help predict trends and customer behavior. We also take notes on what big chain stores are carrying as well HOME RUNS as famous kids’ boutiques. NO SECOND CHANCES Our first time ordering
from a brand is critical. It’s when we get a sense of how the actual production adheres to the showroom/tradeshow samples. If there is a huge disparity and multiple issues, we tend to not reorder. In the modern retail landscape, you only get one chance to win your customer over. You have to ‘wow’ them! If you screw up, there are no second chances.
Dresswear Tutu Du Monde Accessories Moschino Playwear Nununu Denim Angel’s Face Toys Sago Mini
If the fulfillment process is Gifts Moschino punctual and accurate, it makes a huge difference to us. Late and inaccurate shipments Footwear when it comes to quantities and styles are a Mini Melissa big no-no. Tracking numbers that notify us when a shipment is sent out really helps pace the process and keep up communication. Repeated shipping mistakes will deter us from a long-standing relationship with that brand. TIME IS MONEY
DO YOUR HOMEWORK Cold-calling and mass emails with no research
behind it in today’s fast-paced world is very ineffective. Before we’re approached, we’d like to know that the sales rep did their homework about our store—our price point, who our target market is, etc. A generic email or call will most likely be ignored because there are just too many! To cut through the clutter. I recommend a well-crafted email personalized to our business and needs, and a trade show presentation that calls out to our tastes. Otherwise, we prefer showroom appointments with brands we already know. w w w. i l o v e p l a y t i m e . c o m
SPONSORED CONTENT
EARNIE AWARDS 2019
BEHIND THE SEAMS
Fowl Play Goosewaddle hatches a variety of ultra-soft accessories.
Perfect Chemistry Annie the Brave infuses girls’ fashion with science-inspired motifs.
STIRRED BY THE RECORD number of female Nobel laureates in the sciences and medical school graduates in recent years, momtreprenuer Chelsea Coulston wanted to inspire young girls, like her science-loving 9-year-old daughter, to pursue similar career dreams through inspirational fashion. The only snag: finding prints that would convey the message. “There wasn’t a single material with a scientist on it,” Coulston says. “Girls are conditioned to think science isn’t for them by only being exposed to rainbows, flowers and butterflies.” Coulston decided to do something about it with the launch of Annie the Brave, a line of dresses featuring prints of female scientists in their labs, an ocean of sea creatures like sharks and octopuses, and a galaxy landscape covered in female astronauts. “When a young girl is shopping, she should feel inspired,” Coulston says. “She should realize that she is brave, strong and smart.” Named for Coulston’s daughters, the brand launched with a Kickstarter campaign in April that raised more than $14,000. The 100-percent cotton, STEM-inspired dresses retail for $35. For back-to-school, Annie the Brave has added four more atypical dress prints:
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dinosaurs, bugs, travel and construction. Coulston says that sticking to dresses at first is a calculated move inspired by her own shopping experience as a mother. Namely, it’s hard to even find dresses. “I’ve purchased plenty of clothing in the boys’ section for my girls, but they don’t offer dresses,” she says. Looking ahead, the founder plans to roll out bicycle shorts for Spring ’20, as well as expand sizing from 2T to 12. “Larger sizes reach preteens who are still interested in STEM but hesitant to shop in the boys’ section,” she says. Coulston reports the response to Annie the Brave has been strong nationwide. It serves as reassurance for her brand’s mission. “Moms and dads are loving the message and garment construction,” she says. “Everyone adores the softness of the dresses and the vibrance of the designs.” Many customers have shared their excitement in videos on social media of their girls twirling in the dresses or wearing them to kindergarten graduations. “It’s so awesome to see our designs on brave girls,” Coulston says, adding that she looks forward to expanding into wholesale soon. “The more availability we have to get the brand out there, the better it will be for young girls.” —Aleda Johnson
WITH EMPLOYEES THAT average 25 years of experience in the textile industry, parent company P&A Industrial Fabrications has guided its baby brand Goosewaddle since 2014 to produce luxuriously soft accessories for tiny hands. “We spent about two years developing the right fabric,” says Olivia Marx, senior vice president of new business development. “We worked with our experienced partners to ensure we had the softest fabric on the market, and I can assure you it was well worth the wait.” The signature velvety cotton blend started in blankets and has since expanded to a wide range of lovies, plush toys and soothers. What’s more, the brand’s “Buy 1, Give 1” program donates one product for every blanket or gift set purchased by its customers to people in need. “Pregnancy centers, orphanages, disaster relief programs—we’ve called and connected with several to ensure all babies experience the soft quality they deserve,” Marx says, noting its most recent partnership with non-profit Delivering Good. “We’ve donated thousands of products since our launch five years ago,” she adds. Goosewaddle’s heartfelt ethos and supreme quality attracts everyday moms to celebrity mamas like actress and country music singer Beverley Mitchell as well as model and actress Megan Fox. “It’s always fun seeing the reaction of our customers through their social media posts,” Marx says. “Our gift bundles are a go-to for baby showers.” Stocked in hundreds of retailers nationwide, Goosewaddle continues to spread the word about its unique offerings through digital and print outlets. “We already have a strong presence in the gift market, so we’re now trying to reach more apparel stores,” Marx says. “We’re looking forward to meeting many of those retailers at upcoming shows.” The exec also hints at the possibility of expanding into new categories for toddlers and young children. “We will continue to maintain our remarkable quality and see where it takes us,” Marx says. “It’s truly amazing to think this is only the beginning.” —Emily Beckman
Happily Ever After Princess Daliana offers girls’ dresswear for every occasion. LITTLE GIRLS ARE feeling like royalty in Dalian Keyu Fashion Co.’s newest label Princess Daliana. Specializing in party attire, communion outfits and flower girl frocks, the line entered the U.S. market two years ago and is already sold by more than 500 stores across the country and Canada. “Princess Daliana’s unique, ethereal designs are something both parents and kids can appreciate,” says Rebecca Yan, sales manager. Available in sizes 2T to 12, each dress is lined and embellished with detachable bows and removable trains for easy-to-wear statements. What’s more, every garment is crafted from soft, lightweight materials—the keystone to designing children’s formal attire, according to Yan. “Too often special occasion dresses feel uncomfortable because they’re heavy and itchy,” she says, noting how the designers avoid any fabrics or details that could cause a child discomfort. “Young girls aren’t going to wear fashion that gets in the way of fun,” Yan adds. For Fall ’19, Princess Daliana is experimenting with 3-D floral decorations as well as a petal-inspired palette of pale pink and lavender hues. For Spring ’20, the brand will update its communion line with more intricate beading and bright white fabrics. The bridal selection will also include an expanded offering of 100-percent cotton designs to accommodate warmer weather and casual venues. “Some girls are wearing sneakers with their dresses,” Yan says. “Customers want something that can be dressed up or down—it’s simply more valuable that way.” Another popular trend is colorful styles and unicorn motifs, according to Yan. Moms are bucking tradition. “Moms want to make a statement, especially on Instagram,” she says. “This can easily be done by adding a pop of color!” Speaking of Instagram, Princess Daliana has received a number of requests for boys’ christening gowns after Prince Louis sported one last year. “It’s certainly something we’ve considered” she says, adding that the company plans to expand its boys’ christening offerings. “We hope to expand our assortment and reach more stores in the coming seasons,” Yan says, rattling off a full schedule of trade shows the brand will be attending. “We want more consumers to enjoy what Princess Daliana has to offer. Every girl deserves to be a princess.” —A.J.
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W H A T ’S S E L L I N G
Best Dressed Child Atlanta, GA HEN GEORGIA NATIVE Lisa Hammer had her first tention from Australia because their seasons are opposite ours, and daughter, she wanted the same traditional smocked cloththey take advantage of our sales. ing she had purchased for her two boys. But the stress of shopping in stores with three young children led her to start What items are most popular of late? The British royal family searching online—a limiting resource back in 2002. “I expected to find has made a great impact on our business. It’s been exciting watching great items, like those in my local boutiques, but there just weren’t any their children grow and the sophistication in what they wear. With available online,” Hammer says. Seeing room for improvement, the them as role models, I see children in America dressing a little more ambitious mom launched her own online shop, Best Dressed Child, upscale and traditional—the core look to our inventory. where time-starved moms could discover unique gifts and quality clothing with ease. What are your top-selling brands? Anavini sells best with incredibly Hammer received quite a bit of resistance from skeptical brands high quality and amazing smocking. They also do other lines like Claire at first. “They thought we’d be a discount & Charlie, which is more fashion-forward, house,” she says. After about a year, however, and Petit Bebe, which is more baby-oriented. brands warmed up to Best Dressed Child, Florence Eiseman is a traditional statement realizing the site valued the integrity of its line that always does well. Funtasia Too is lines. Today, Anavini, Feltman Brothers, a popular American brand, and Gnu Brand Kissy Kissy, Lemon Loves Lime and Florence by Lemon Loves Lime is adored by many Eiseman are just some of the upscale labels moms with little boys. in Hammer’s vast selection for babies to size 16. “People are famliar with the brands and What about for gifting? Feltman Brothers don’t have to question the quality of these is often the leading gift of choice when it high-end fabrics,” she says. comes to baby showers. Kissy Kissy and In addition to its selection, Best Dressed Magnolia Baby are top for layette. Seasonally, Child’s dedication to customer service has we also add coats from Widgeon, dress been integral in building a loyal following coats from Florence Eiseman and pajamas that includes a growing international audifrom Sara’s Prints—all great options to give ence. “We don’t let orders sit,” Hammer someone special. Best Dressed Child gives time-starved says, adding that the site helps take the customers quality clothing options with guesswork out of online shopping. “It’s not Any new categories or trends you’re just the click of a mouse. uncommon for us to measure several sizes looking to add to your mix? I’m excited by for a customer or match a dress from one the market potential for adaptive clothing. brand and a jon-jon from another for a coordinating family portrait.” Zappos and Tommy Hilfiger have been in it since the start, and Kohl’s Hammer adds, “Our goal will always be for parents to open their box just announced they were bringing in adaptive clothing lines. The disand think it’s even better than what they expected.” —Aleda Johnson ability community is the largest minority community, yet we have more clothing options to dress our dogs than this community. It’s crazy! I’m Is the online marketplace more challenging than when you hoping some of the higher-end brands will recognize the market size— launched Best Dressed Child? It’s certainly more challenging than and the opportunity they’re leaving on the table if they don’t jump in. when I started, but we’ve been doing well. We win our customers over— one at a time—with great service and selection. I think it’s an exciting Any recent updates to your online platform? We’ve implemented time to be an online retailer. Many of our online competitors also have this great series of filters, so if you’re not just browsing, it’s easy to narbrick-and-mortar locations, but I don’t think we need it. Personally, as row down choices to the things most relevant to you in terms of brand, a mom and a consumer, the advantages of shopping online outweigh body style, size, color, price, etc. We also have a real-time inventory, the annoyance of dealing with Atlanta traffic. And when I do make it so it won’t show you items that have sold out. It’s all about making the out, stores too often don’t have what I want in stock. As long as we user experience more rewarding by allowing them to find what they maintain our large inventory and great customer service, we bypass want in less time. that hassle for moms and keep them coming back. What do you consider to be your greatest survival trait? I’ve Who is the Best Dressed Child customer? Mainly moms, however learned a lot over 17 years about predicting trends, even though you grandmas are starting to shop online as they become more internet can never be sure. It’s the age old question: what will the customer savvy. We also take orders over the phone, which grandmas love. At this want? That’s why it’s important to use every tool you have to try and point, our orders come from all over the world. People in California answer that each season. It’s why we’re still here—keeping up with who are southern transplants or moms in New York who have access trends and offering emerging brands that are interesting, unique and to every store but don’t have the time to go out. We also get lots of atfit our high-end space.
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Q&A continued from page 11
virtual door every day—if you’re on it. It’s a great way to build new relationships, collect information and make sales. Let’s face it, that’s how Millennials shop today. They’re not buying through websites as much. And if you want to break into the Asian market, you definitely need to be on Instagram because all your future clients are using it there. With so much visual content online, would you recommend a bigger budget for creative materials to help standout? Yes, creative is probably our biggest budget. If you’re going to have a successful digital presence, you’re going to need images—good ones. As a brand, you want to provide visual packages for your stores, so they don’t have to do extra work shooting product for their own website and social media feeds. You also want your visual message to stay consistent, wherever the customer may be. Why have a retailer throw a garment over a chair and taking a quick snapshot, when you could provide them with professional photographs that encompass your brand message? It’s just another way to be a supportive, worthwhile partner.
IT'S ALL BASED OFF LISTENING TO OUR RETAILERS, DELIVERING FASTER THAN WHAT'S PERCEIVED AS 'NORMAL.'
How else do you strengthen relationships with retail partners? It’s all based off listening to our retailers, delivering faster than what’s perceived as “normal.” We do small batch production, so we’re able to turn styles around fairly quickly. In this retail climate, it’s very hard for stores to purchase a year in advance, not really knowing what’s going to happen with business. Especially when you’re dealing with special occasion and small boutiques in today’s market, it’s important to accommodate retailers who are trying to predict what their inventory will be like. Right now, they’re hesitating to commit to a large order upfront. And to be fair, tutu dresses do take up a lot of space! What do you love most about being a designer? I love seeing a collection take shape in front of my eyes. That rush when your heart’s beating fast, knowing you have a good style and the people you work with see it too—that never gets old. I also love introducing initiatives on our manufacturing side that help fellow moms. As a whimsical dresswear brand, we will
FINAL CUT
On the Ball Eleven-year-old crochet prodigy Jonah Larson on making change— one stitch at a time. By Emily Beckman JONAH LARSON WAS five years old when he picked up his first crochet hook. His mother— not skilled with the tool herself—cued up a YouTube tutorial so her curious son could better understand the craft. Less than an hour later, she checked back in to find Larson holding a beautifully crocheted dishrag. Larson was hooked! Crocheting an average of 35 hours a week, the self-taught Wisconsin sixth grader has spent the past few years donating his crocheted work and proceeds to Roots Ethiopia, an organization that supports the orphanage he was adopted from at five months old. To date, he has raised nearly $20,000 for the charity. The awareness around his mission has also skyrocketed after the La Crosse Tribune published an article earlier this year about his efforts. Larson’s social media following has mushroomed to more than 191,000 followers on Instagram and 45,000 subscribers on YouTube. The increased traffic to his website JonahHands.com led the young philanthropist to launch his own line of merchandise (furthering his support of Roots Ethiopia), including T-shirts with witty phrases like “Bro-chet” and “Crochet Away” as well as a crochet utility jacket that holds up to four hooks and two balls of yarn. Larson has become a sought-after guest on the daytime talk show circuit. Interview requests include The Rachael Ray Show, The Steve Harvey Show, The Today Show, Ellen and Pickler & Ben. “It’s been crazy! We had to turn down Ellen because we were already booked that day!” he says, adding, “It’s so fun to share my skills.” This month, Larson released his autobiography Hello Crochet Friends, named after his catchphrase that begins each of his YouTube tutorials. Larson is also working closely with Anthropologie on a collection of 12 crochetbased styles for this fall. Also on the slate, a trip to New York to attend a Vogue Knitting event as well as to speak at the Ethiopian Embassy about successful adoptions. If that isn’t enough, Larson will showcase his speedy crocheting skills on the new season of Little Big Shots, hosted by Melissa McCarthy. “I’m just so grateful for all the awareness gained through each opportunity,” Larson says, noting his No. 1 goal now is to raise
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How would you describe your personal style? I like to wear things that are comfortable, especially when I’m crocheting. What’s your go-to outfit? Jeans and a T-shirt. I keep it simple. However, the clothes I design are typically mixed media. I have a vintage crochet book I compare with modern looks, which I then combine into new designs! Is there a specific designer who inspires you? Daniel Sheehan. Or, as I call him, ‘Uncle Daniel.’ He’s an Atlanta-based fashion designer with clients like Kelly Clarkson. He found my Instagram account (@jonahhands) and messaged me. He’s helped me learn the ropes, which included flying my family and I to Atlanta to design with him.
FA S T FAV E S TV show: History documentaries Movie: Avengers: Endgame Music: Johnny Cash to Ariana Grande Food: Spaghetti and meatballs Animal: Dogs Family activity: Basketball in the driveway Color: Orange
enough money to go to Ethiopia and teach families how to crochet so they can use those skills to make money. Further down the road, Larson dreams of becoming a surgeon. “I want to give free surgeries to people in need,” he says. “I’ve learned so many incredible lessons every step of the way, and I’m so thankful for what’s still to come.” What’s trending in the world of crochet? Summer cardigans are obviously a hit because of the warmer weather. I prefer to use cotton yarn in the summer to stay cool. Neutral colors are also very popular. It’s a great choice all year round.
What do you love most about being a designer? Seeing other people wear my work. I also love experimenting with new kinds of art. What’s the most challenging design you’ve ever created? My flower afghan. I had to crochet 800 individual flowers using a time-consuming stitch, and after I completed those flowers I had to sew all of them together. It taught me the importance of patience and persistence. How long does it take you to crochet a standard winter pom-pom hat? Forty-six minutes! I typically crochet around five hours a day—before and after school. But now that it’s summer, I have more flexibility. Aside from yarn stores, where do you like to shop? Well, I’m currently sitting in the Gap. I shop here a lot with my mom. I also love Converse. How would you describe your dream shopping experience? Going to a vintage shop. I would try things on to get new ideas for my designs. Any advice for kids chasing their dreams? Do whatever you love. Do what keeps you happy. And just keep trying, no matter what.