2019 $10.00
TWEEN SPIRIT SPORTY LAYERED LOOKS THAT ROCK! Shopper Survey: Moms Sound Off Q&A: Catching Up with Chaser Trend Watch: Punk & Preppy
JUNE 2019 CONTENTS
Noelle Heffernan Publisher
FEAT URES
Emily Beckman Editor
8 Kids are All Right Stephen Kayne, president of Chaser, on how the rock-infused label keeps cranking out hits in the face of epic market turbulence. By Emily Beckman
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor
14 Moms Sound Off Savvy mamas share what, when and how they buy for their little ones. By Emily Beckman
ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager
18 Electric Avenue Layered looks with an athleisure attitude lead the way in tween style. By Mariah Walker
PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster
DEPARTM EN TS
Bruce Sprague Circulation Director
4 Editor’s Note
CORPORATE
6 Scene & Heard
Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018 Lee Zapis, CEO Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller
12 In the Bag 13 A Note to My Younger Self
Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher
16 Trend Watch 30 Designer Chat
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
32 Behind the Seams
9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300
34 What’s Selling 36 Final Cut
CONTACT INFO PAGE
On cover: Nika wears Light+Nine cap, Tractr leopard print sweater over Puma hoodie and vintage scarf. Photography by Franck Malthiery/ Kate Ryan, Inc.; styling by Mariah Walker, Art Department, NY; hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/Utopia NYC using Oribe Hair Care and Milk Makeup; digital management by Benoist Lechevallier; styling assistance by Enid Hunt.
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Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com
This page: Nika wears zip-up by Tru Luv, shirt by Appaman, Vogue sunglasses, Puma knit hat and vintage scarf.
Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com
EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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ELEVATED LIFESTYLE COLLECTIONS FOR CHILDREN
NEW YORK CITY AUGUST 4-6, 2019 P I E R 94 , N E W YO R K C I T Y
LAS VEGAS AUGUST 12-14, 2019 L A S V E G A S CO N V E N T I O N C E N T E R
Presenting an eclectic base of established collections and new designers, featuring every category of children’s clothing from newborn to tween, including accessories, footwear, toys and gifts.
UBMFASHION.COM
EDITOR’S NOTE
Mothers of Invention BEHIND MANY GREAT childrenswear designs and breakthrough juvenile products stands a parent. Someone faced with the rigors of first-time childrearing invents a way to improve upon existing products and/or introduce something revolutionary to the marketplace. It’s a cycle of innovation and entrepreneurship that’s been showcased in our pages for more than a century. Just when you think you might have seen it all, a mompreneur (or dadpreneur) enters the fray with a fresh concept that sets the market abuzz. Earnshaw’s has been the source for introducing countless such success stories. As on old saying around our office goes, “It’s in Earnshaw’s before it’s in stores.” Back in the 1930s, for example, Earnshaw’s began covering a new company. Daniel Frank Gerber, owner of Freemont Canning Company, was the proud papa of a baby daughter. By the time the baby was seven months old, Gerber’s wife, Dorothy, was regularly concocting hand-strained food for her. Dorothy suggested Frank start canning strained baby foods. Recognizing a business opportunity for ready-made infant nutrition, he did—and the Gerbers’ concept grew from a family recipe to one of the world’s most famous baby brands. We’re proud to continue the tradition of highlighting the potential next great brands of our industry in this issue. There’s the Behind the Seams profile (p. 32) of The Circle Collective. Co-founder Lauren Clarke Jensen, a former editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar Singapore, traveled the world covering couture fashion, but it wasn’t until becoming a mother that she had the epiphany that led her to create a sustainable children’s fashion line. Clarke Jensen wasn’t satisfied with the quality of practical and affordable brands on the marketplace. She didn’t like the manmade fabrics rubbing her
daughters’ skin, the goods weren’t manufactured sustainably or ethically and—the last straw for an editor with nearly two decades covering high fashion under her Gucci belt—the chic factor was nil. Like countless childrenswear executives before her, Clarke Jensen saw a way to make something better. She identified a void in the market and came up with a way to fill it. Lawyer Alisia Grenville, founder of new undergarments company MaRen, is another example of a young mom who swapped professions to pursue her childrenswear company dreams (p. 32). She recognized the importance of discussing women’s health with her daughter and launched a brand to promote body positivity and self-care education. MaRen’s product is meant to be the perfect first camisole or bra and to simultaneously spark open conversation between mother and daughter about the “transformation from girl to young lady.” You never know who might create the next great startup in our beloved industry. Odds are it’s a Lamaze student who has no idea that their entrepreneurial epiphany is in the embryo stage. They will soon be in dire need of a convenience for their precious ones that simply can’t be found anywhere. So they’ll invent it themselves. Necessity, as they say, is the mother of invention. These real-time experts (a.k.a. parents) are learning what the market needs in real time. They’re finding ways to make life with children an easier, more delightful experience, which benefits our entire industry (not to mention, families themselves). Covering such stories never gets old because new ideas keep our industry dynamic and move it forward. Whatever your story is, Earnshaw’s would love to hear it. Give us a call. Contact us on social media. Share your story with us.
E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor
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2 ND EDITION
AUGUST 12 - 14, 2019
The Flamingo hotel, Las Vegas
Where the kids industry connects
illustration ana galvan
www.gotokidshub.com
SC E N E & H E A R D
Talking Shop with Tommy Hilf iger’s Lisa Di Napoli W E CAUG H T U P with be more innovation around Lisa Di Napoli, vice presipost-consumer recycling. That dent of children’s design for we, as a society and industry, Tommy Hilfiger, recently will find ways for unwanted at the annual the Fashion garments to be turned back Institute of Technology’s into raw materials and come Future of Fashion Runway up with easy, convenient ways Show. Di Napoli, who served to collect the clothing so less as one of the judges, shared a goes into the landfills. few thoughts on the winning Lisa Di Napoli childrenswear designer‘s work How has Tommy Hilfiger as well as her take on current adapted its collections market trends. Despite a retail landscape to the needs of the market recently? in great upheaval, the exec with 15-plus Childrenswear has certainly become more years of industry experience under her trend- and status-inspired the last few belt believes opportunities for innovation years. It’s no longer just the “mini me” and growth still abound. look for the 7-14 size range—it’s from baby all the way through to the older child. At What did you love about winner Samantha Tommy, we have injected looks and ideas Berger’s collection? Samantha used her from the more youth-driven successes at personal experience and observations the brand like Tommy Jeans and the colas inspiration. (Based on a trip she took laborations with Gigi Hadid and Zendaya. to Japan.) That is the essence of being a designer—taking cues from the world around What are some trends for Fall ’19 on you. Beyond that, she had a clear vision, your radar? The ’90s influence in a major which she articulated and executed from way—oversized sweatshirts and outerwear, start to finish. She took her whole project primary and hyper-bright color, metallic the extra mile by thinking through every everything and everywhere. High-density detail—right down to the shoes to complete and high-shine graphics will also be popular. her outfits, which she made herself! Plush and high-pile fabric will continue as well as utility pockets and accessories. What advice did you have for her durAnd because it’s childrenswear, soft and ing the design process? Exaggerate the cozy is always a trend. design details, but do not let it get too costume-y. Remember a kid has to wear What do you love about your role at this. It’s fashion, but you must keep the Tommy Hilfiger? It’s powerful to have a child in mind. great brand as your support. At Tommy, there’s a culture of openness. That openWhat’s one of the major issues facing ness is what leads to the adaptive clothing graduating childrenswear designers? line we produce, and that’s what I’m most Sustainability is important for the whole proud of—that our children’s designs fashion industry, but it’s a bigger chalhave a wider reach. I’m so pleased to have lenge in childrenswear. It’s difficult to been a part of the inception of Runway ask the customer to pay a higher price for of Dreams at Tommy and thrilled that, sustainable clothing when a child’s entire as a brand, we continue to expand this wardrobe has to be constantly rebought category and inspire other companies every six months. My hope is there will to do so as well.
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Samantha Berger’s sketch
Berger and her winning design
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6/16/19 4:00 PM
Believe in Yourself Project Helps Underprivileged Girls
Founder Sam Sisakhti at a Believe in Yourself Project meet-up.
WITH PROM, END of school dances and graduation season upon us, we’re reminded of how powerful putting on a pretty new dress can be for a young girl’s self-esteem. Alas, many girls from lowincome backgrounds find their families can’t afford new dresses for formal events, leaving them self-conscious, bullied or even too ashamed to attend. That’s why Sam Sisakhti, a Boston-based entrepreneur and founder of UsTrendy.com, a retail platform for up-and-coming designers, launched the Believe in Yourself Project. The non-profit organization gives girls in need the ability to feel beautiful in a fabulous new frock. Founded in January 2017, the charity collects dress donations from designers and retailers with the tags still attached. “Ultimately, the Believe in Yourself Project seeks to make people feel comfortable in their own skin and not let physical or financial insecurities and limitations affect their confidence,” Sisakhti says. For 2019, Sisakhti expects to get at least 10,000 dresses donated to low-income areas. But the Believe in Yourself Project doesn’t stop at product. The organization leverages its impact with a national mentorship program, including weekly meetings in various cities as well as interactive digital seminars with inspirational female leaders. What’s more, the Believe in Yourself Project vows to remain in touch with each dress recipient, supporting her as she Elegant works toward personal and professional goals. Baby For more information on how to get involved with the organization, please visit BelieveinYourself.org.
M L FA S H I O N S, I N C . MLKidswear@gmail.com (770) 831-5322 MLKids.design Represented in Atlanta, Chicago, Dallas, New York and Los Angeles. Contact for details.
Q&A
The Kids are All Right BY EMILY BECKM A N
STEPHEN KAYNE, PRESIDENT OF CHASER, ON HOW THE ROCK-INFUSED LABEL KEEPS CRANKING OUT THE HITS IN THE FACE OF EPIC MARKET TURBULENCE. CHASER MADE ITS bones in a contemporary adult fashion, having launched in the late ’80s and earning a loyal following through fusing a love of music and a vintage-inspired aesthetic that’s produced a steady stream of ultra-cool, comfort-driven styles. Phrases like “Support Local Bands,” “Vinyl Junkie” and “Woodstock—Peace, Love, Music” have been top sellers over the years, as well as album graphics from Rock and Roll Hall of Famers like Aerosmith, Pink Floyd, Journey, Grateful Dead, ACDC, Styx, David Bowie and Tom Petty. In fact, the Los Angeles-based company’s name comes from the album, Straight No Chaser, featuring jazz great Thelonious Monk. From its inspiration to its design aesthetic to its roots in Los Angeles, Chaser is all about the music. “Our customer is anyone who loves classic rock and hanging out,” says Stephen Kayne, president. That list includes plenty of celebrities. (It is an L.A. brand, after all.) Recent sightings include Lisa Rinna, Kristin Cavallari, "The Bachelor’s" Colton Underwood and Disney recording artist Maddie Salute, as well as the celebrity offspring of Matt Damon, Mario Lopez and Nick Lachey. Chaser styles also make regular appearances on TV, like "Grown-ish," "Black Lightning"
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and "Real Housewives of Orange County" most recently. The brand nails that sweet spot of fun retro yet fresh, making it accessible to a broad demographic of men, women and kids. Chaser is one of those rare brands that has achieved such bandwidth without selling out somewhere along the line. Chaser has repeatedly found ways over the years to adapt and evolve to stay on top of the fashion charts. It has expanded to incorporate more trend-driven silhouettes—like printed rompers and patterned dresses beyond its range of casual, cotton-based core tees, sweats and denim. And while the brand’s easy-going identity rings true as ever, Kayne says its approach to fit, fabrication, hand-feel and construction is hardcore. The design team regularly experiments with new yarns and dyes for an art-meets-fashion look that’s uniquely Chaser. The team is not content to rest on it greatest hits. When it comes to Chaser’s kids’ collections specifically, a category it entered in the late aughts, the focus is on color and variety. That’s what has set the brand apart from the competition, according to Kayne. “We’re very good at forecasting colors and are not afraid to try a variety of silhouettes,” the exec says. “Even our basics remain
a top-seller in kids’, because our core program is enhanced each season by different trend-driven design elements—from ruffles to anticipated hot colorways like pastels and neon accents. We’ve also incorporated several elements of athleisure in response to today’s streetwear-inspired market.” It wasn’t long after Chaser’s entrance into the kids’ market that Kayne joined the company. He’d been working for a few years for the private label maker Fortune Fashions when he was brought in as a partner, circa 2011, by an old friend who launched the company. It was a good fit from the get-go. The kids’ division was still relatively small, and Kayne applied his background in children’s production to grow its market presence. The process was relatively seamless, and success quickly followed. “It just seemed like a natural extension of the line because we were able to incorporate some of the graphics we used for our adult line and tie them into kids’,” he says. But like any good musician, expanding the playlist has been Chaser’s key to long-term success. Kayne’s decision, for example, to dial down the brand’s focus on graphic assortments and expand into more neutral So-Cal themes has helped earn a much wider following. Chaser has since pared down its offering of classic graphics, and the assortment now consists of almost 50 percent new styles each season. “We still like to revisit and update successful graphics from the past as there are some evergreen designs, but we’re always trying new trends to keep the assortment fresh,” Kayne says. For Fall ’19, that means a mix of heavier knits and long-sleeve looks featuring playful prints as well as a few signature nods to rock and roll. “We’ve seen growth in tossed all-over prints in the last few years,” Kayne says, noting that much of the line’s inspiration has been drawn from the women’s market. It then gets “kid-ified” with whimsical accents like lollipops, popsicles, rainbows, unicorns (of course) and other G-rated graphics. Recent hits include the girls’ tees, “More Tacos,” "One Love” and “I’m a Triple Threat.” On the boys’ side “Power to the Pizza” and “Wingman” are examples of the brand’s "cute enough for kids but cool for parents" vibe. Kayne says the overriding theme of late, and expected again for this fall, is nostalgia. “Kids are picking out our clothes because they respond to the comfort and colors, while parents are responding to nostalgia,” he says, adding that parents also want to coordinate with their kids more than ever. “They want their
kids to associate with experiences from their youth—games, movies, TV shows, bands, etc.,” he says. To further meet that demand, Chaser has partnered with Disney to introduce Star Wars licensed apparel for the whole family. Kayne says parents respond especially well to nostalgia-driven licensing. “It’s a perfect example of something our adult customers and their children can enjoy together,” he says. Despite a difficult retail climate overall, Chaser’s business has been on an upswing of late. The brand is now distributed in hundreds of stores in North America as well as a few locations in Europe and Asia. The consolidation, however, has hit Chaser’s department store partners especially hard, Kayne says. “There’s an alarming shift in how people are buying product,” he says, noting why a diversified distribution portfolio is key today. “We distribute on all channels, while being conscious of the fact that our backbone comes from our wholesale distribution.” The upheaval at retail means all bets are off on what might come next. Many of the old rules simply no longer apply, and stalwarts once thought invincible are crumbling in defeat. Meanwhile, upstarts operating under new business models are bursting onto the scene. How many industry insiders saw, even three years out, the apparel rental business catching fire like it is, or the subscription box service exploding in popularity? Technology is enabling consumers to change how they shop. While disruptive, it also provides plenty of opportunities. Companies that are agile, quick and smart will be suited best to deliver what retailers need and consumers crave. Kayne believes Chaser possesses all those qualities. At the same time, he says the recipe for success today demands listening closely to what the market is saying. It can’t be a one-way conversation. “One of the best things we can do is listen to what our retailers want and incorporate it into the line as effectively as possible,” he says, noting the importance of respecting retailer boundaries. “We can’t dictate everything and expect it to be a successful, long-term partnership.” Fortunately, the apparel business has some built-in strengths that even the so-called Retail Apocalypse can’t shake—starting with the average consumer not likely to walk around naked anytime soon. How clothing is being manufactured, shipped, marketed and where it’s sold is rapidly changing. But Kayne believes the demand overall is as robust as always, you just have to chase it down. “People are still going
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Q&A to shop,” Kayne says. “You can’t digitally download your wardrobe. Well, not yet at least.” Any advice on how retailers can survive this tough time? Every retailer has a different point of view—something that’s unique about them. They must play up that strength and tell a story as to why you’d want to come shop at that particular location. As a retailer or a brand, if you can’t answer what makes you special, then you need to go back to the drawing board. What has Chaser been doing to assist its retail partners in getting their stories across? We always put our retail partners first. For example, we ship to them before we sell it on our website, and we won’t go on sale until well after they’ve had an opportunity to sell the product. We’ll also do special cuts for them. For Chaser SMALL TA to succeed, our wholesale efforts must remain our priority. What has been the biggest challenge facing your business of late? The cost of acquiring a consumer is getting increasingly expensive as more and more brands come into the space. There aren’t that many platforms to reach your customer, so all your competitors are there bidding for the same set of eyeballs. The competition is tougher than ever. What’s more, everything is instant and with global reach. There is no room for error. If you miss out on a trend, it’s already too late.
Favorite hometown memory: Walking home from school with my friends in the L.A. area, where I grew up. First paying job: The Christmas sale at Camp Beverly Hills boutique. I was roughly 16 and working for the money and free clothes. Most coveted dinner guest: Robert Altman. He had such a brilliant directing style, telling stories though a multitude of characters. Your dream employee: Jeff Bezos.
Chaser has found a way to survive and thrive through 30 years of ups and downs. What do you attribute its longevity to most? There’s great communication amongst our team. We work well together. We don’t have much micromanaging in our company culture. Everyone has a sense of their responsibilities, and they’re given enough space and freedom to be creative. It’s all about everyday well-being—the pleasures of doing your job without someone breathing down your neck. How might have your private label pedigree prepared you for growing Chaser’s business? I learned a lot about the children’s market from a retailer’s perspective—what they want to put on their floor, why and when. We have applied a lot of this thinking to our line when determining graphics and silhouettes for a season.
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What’s your take on the athleisure trend—any slowdown in sight? I think it’s only becoming bigger, and it’s here to stay. The clothes are comfortable, easy to wear and look cool. Comfort is everything these days, especially for kids! How about the growing trend of boutiques stocking both adult and children’s collections. Does that have legs? We’ve seen it, and I think part of the reason is because of the overall consolidation. It’s seen as a way to drive revenue. However, it really depends on the type of retailer and whether that’s the best approach. Some stores are never going to want to be associated with kids’ product, particularly very high-end retailers. Not everything works for everyone. If you’re going to carry both, I think the layout works best by allowing the single woman or man to not feel like they’re shopping in the kiddie section. Another industry trend involves retailers ramping up private label efforts in response to brands Three items you can’t expanding their directlive without: IPad, Kiehl’s to-consumer programs. Facial Fuel and Nordica As a former private label ski boots. person, is this a wise move for retailers? Last book you read: The Let me just say first, having Sellout by Paul Beatty. come from private label, I couldn’t wait to get away! Last thing you watched: But it really depends on the "Game of Thrones." retailer. It’s hard to compete Last person you texted: with bigger guys on price My business partner. when they are working on much bigger volumes, and if Your motto: Don’t sweat your product doesn’t have a the small stuff. distinct point of view, then forget it. I also believe that Greatest inspiration: most boutique shoppers are My family. looking to be on-trend, and branded products are the best way to go. They are helping drive those trends. Brands are putting a lot of energy into marketing and looking to partner with retailers to help develop their brand identity. They want to help push traffic to the store. It’s all tied into the social media component, which is particularly helpful in unifying a brand and its retail partners. So, to answer your original question, I think we’re better off if brands and retailers work together to drive sales, rather than go our separate ways.
LK
Speaking of going separate ways, is the escalating trade war and subsequent tariff hikes impacting Chaser significantly? We certainly feel it. If the war continues to escalate, then I anticipate an increase in the cost of goods will be passed onto consumers. We have already been hit with pricing pressure in almost all of our raw
Q&A materials, but so far we’re holding back on price increases, and we will for as long we can. Of course, there are limits and if the pressure continues, we may have to address our pricing. What is your strategy in presenting Chaser on social media? People still respond best to puppy pictures! [Laughs.] Kidding aside, we just want to show our product in the best light possible. We want to show how people live and feel in our products. This means showcasing everything from flat lays to lifestyle shoots. It’s a mix across our channels that works best. For example, we’ll post pictures on our children’s account, showcasing parents and kids together. It’s just one of our ways to celebrate the mini me movement of late. How’s the feedback to those efforts? We get a lot of great feedback through our social channels. In fact, a lot of our marketing strategy now works through Instagram with a heavy focus on influencers. I don’t think we’re unique in that, but it’s definitely been a great tool for us. We typically don’t pay influencers—only on occasion. Overall, advertising on Instagram has become an important part of our budget as we watch this shift in how consumers shop. Taking into account this shift in shopping, what might the typical childrenswear store or department look like in five years? How might the experience be different than now? Convenience will still be everything. As a result, selections will only grow more curated. Retailers are trying to stand out with a less-is-more mentality to give customers an experience they can connect with and aren’t overwhelmed by. At the same time, customers will only demand more of a wow factor from retailers, meaning the selection and service must be on point to survive. A store—especially one down the road—better give someone a good reason why they should come in rather than shop from their couch. What is your top goal for the rest of this year? Continuing to strengthen our relationship with our retail partners and think outside the box when it comes to the next designs we’re putting out on the market. What do you love most about your job? I love seeing the product when we finally get the real feel of a finished line. We have a little game where our team makes friendly wagers as to what the best performers will be in a given season. The fashion business should be fun. I think a lot of people often turn small things into crises, and all that drama and stress is, ultimately, a waste of everyone’s time and energy. You really need to focus on the big picture and move on from things that are insignificant to the dayto-day business. Like I always say, don’t sweat the small
www.dandefran.com daniella@dandefran.com dandefranmx
IN THE BAG 1. Mother Trucker & Co. snapback 2. Crumb Snatcher hoodie 3. Paper Wings bomber 4. Vans neon hi-top 5. Grin Studios slime 6. Parkland backpack 7. Munsterkids sweatpants 8. My Flip Shade phone visor
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Class Clown The goofy graphics, bold colors and punchy patterns of this lightweight, eco-friendly backpack pair well with this scamp’s love of fun and funny fashion statements head to toe. Plenty of pockets provide ample room for books, gaming devices, a cell phone, headphones, fresh kicks, (lost) homework assignments and the obligatory container of slime. —Emily Beckman
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JUNE 2019
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS
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Recipe for Success JENNIFER MINES, FOUNDER OF ISCREAM, REFLECTS ON THE BEAUTY OF WHEN LIFE DOESN’T GO ACCORDING TO PLAN . DEAR JENNIFER…It’s 1977, you’re 11 years old and sitting on your pink floral carpet surrounded by fashion magazines and planning your ideal career. You’ve got it all mapped out! 1. Finish high school. 2. Study fashion in college. 3. Become an editor at Vogue. The plan is perfect. But why wait? You shift into high gear, graduating high school six months early and start working at a clothing store in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn, where you discover your passion for helping customers with their personal style. You work closely with the owner to select new brands, merchandise the store and dress the windows. You’ve never been happier! You go on to earn a bachelor’s degree in fashion merchandising and textile marketing from the University of Maryland. Your dreams then draw you back to the Big Apple, where you land a job at Condé Nast! Your plan is right on track—well, almost. You’re a production manager for House & Garden, but it’s closer to Vogue then you realize. Each day you work with talented artists, designers and editors—under the direction of then Editorin-Chief Anna Wintour! You also work with Alexander Liberman, the legendary editorial director of all of Condé Nast publications. The experience is incredible! After a few years, you seek a new career opportunity, taking a position as an account manager at Pluzynski & Associates, a catalog company that has you working directly with clients like Avon and Tupperware. Pluzynski teaches you new skills, one which will open doors for future positions. Itching to get back into fashion, though, you brainstorm ways to work for a luxury company. It’s a cutthroat industry, so do something creative to stand out. Knowing that Donna Karan just launched her “Seven Easy Pieces” collection, you commission a local bakery to make cookies in the shape of her basics and deliver them to the offices of Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Barneys New York with a note asking for a job interview. This idea brings you sweet success—you land interviews at all four companies! You join Barneys as a business coordinator for their in-house creative department. There, you meet a talented designer, who will soon become the art director of Calvin Klein’s in-house advertising department. He offers you a position as a business manager, where you are involved in everything from Calvin Klein’s fashion shows to designing new underwear packaging to CK One fragrance’s advertising campaign to store fixtures. You’ve never
worked as hard. Gabriella Forte is the president and COO, a fierce leader who knows what she wants and demands it from everyone around her. In her presence, you perform at your best or you’ll be asked to leave. Meetings at 6 a.m. are not uncommon, and holidays aren’t days off, if there’s work to be done. The long hours and pressure eventually take their toll and you come full circle, taking a position in the merchandising department at Condé Nast—this time at Vogue! The job leads to an offer to become the magazine’s retail director. It requires travel to stores nationwide to oversee events at least two weeks each month. Unfortunately, the timing isn’t right as you’re pregnant! The stress of starting a family with that kind of schedule is too much, so you decline. Sure, you waited your whole life to work for Vogue, but you also waited your whole life to be a wife and a mom. That’s always been your top priority. You move to Westchester County, NY, where you start working part-time for your family’s printing company. It’s an okay fit that immediately gets better when your brother announces he wants to expand the business. Together, you brainstorm ideas beyond printing. You both have small children, so it seems only natural to develop products with them in mind. At the time, Moshi pillows are popular, but you feel there’s a way to improve upon the concept. You photograph a donut and put it on a microbead pillow. Everyone goes crazy over it! The year is 2008, and Iscream is born. That kitschy spark leads to smileinducing product lines spanning pillows, bags, lights, stuffed animals and journals, just to name a few. Today, Iscream products are stocked in hundreds of stores nationwide. And while you certainly wouldn’t have guessed your high-fashion career path would lead to creating a children’s lifestyle brand from scratch, you couldn’t be more happy or thankful. Your long and winding career path led you here. Each step gave insight on how to manage your own business one day. You just didn’t realize it was all prep work at the time! Working with so many different management styles, for example, helped craft your own special blend—one that’s demanding yet reasonable, creative and collaborative. You wake up loving what you do! So don’t despair knowing now that your childhood dreams don’t completely come to true because you wouldn’t want to change a thing.
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Moms Sound Off SAVVY MAMAS SHARE WHAT, WHEN AND HOW THEY BUY FOR THEIR LITTLE ONES.
CRYSTAL CAREY, traditional labor law attorney, Randolph, NJ. Daughters: Alice, age 5, Grace, age 7, and Claire, age 11.
amazing and the shoes are awesome! And what’s not to love about Target? What are a few of your daughters’ go-to brands? Justice for cute trendy stuff, Under Armour for durability and versatility, Matilda Jane Clothing for classic, whimsical looks and Mini Boden for quality and style.
How often do you shop for your daughters? At least every two weeks for something. How important are sales? Very! Especially with girls, it can get expensive!
Do you like receiving suggestions from store employees? Yes—on quality of product, but not really on style. We try hard to let the kids make their own choices on style and comfort.
What’s your price range for the basics? $5 to $25. In this category, I would include things like cartwheel shorts for under skirts and dresses, underwear, socks and camisoles. We really like Primary.com for the super basics because they use great materials and really hold up.
How involved in the purchase decision are your children? 100-percent involved! At the very least, we provide them with multiple options we feel comfortable with, and they make the final call. For instance, one of my kids loves smocked dresses, but the other one hates them. I’m not forcing my kid to wear anything they don’t feel amazing in.
How about for outerwear? I’d say $75 to $250. We prefer to go with brands like The North Face and Patagonia because we know all three girls will end up wearing through hand-me-downs, and with cold weather and some skiing thrown in, we need top quality. If not, we find we’re constantly going out to purchase the same thing over and over. Shoes? Sneakers, up to $200. We don’t let the girls share shoes, except snow boots. My husband believes the way shoes wear could have negative effects on different feet, so we always buy new sneakers around $40 to $130 each. Last winter, Claire got Ugg waterproof boots. Those were $200—again going for quality and versatility, because cold feet make for cranky kids. Accessories? Under $10. Honestly, we lose these so frequently, I’m not looking to spend a lot of money in this area.
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What’s your favorite kids’ trends of late? Comfort and versatility of cotton, pockets on dresses, more ‘boy’ patterns on ‘girl’ colors. Your least favorite? The open shoulder dresses and shirts—it kills me. Where do you buy most of your kids’ clothing? We like Primary.com for basics—good quality, great price, excellent customer service. We like Journeys Kidz because they have a casual, dressy and fun selection, all in one place. Macy’s always has the classics (white dresses, dance dresses, etc.) Kohl’s has hip stuff at good prices. Nordstrom is always great—staff is
Any suggestions for the children’s market? Retailers, please make sure the people you’re hiring for kids’ departments actually can deal with kids and have patience. Nothing can throw off an entire shopping trip like a cranky sales associate, stamping their feet as my kid tries to decide between three pairs of shoes.
BRANDIS OHLSSON, owner of model and talent agency, Austin, TX. Son: Miles, age 2. How often do you shop for your son? All the time! For clothing, probably two to three times per month.
BE TH GA R D N E R G O L D O F F, freelance graphic designer and stay-at-home mom, Brooklyn Heights, NY. Daughter: Michaela, age 7. Sons: Evan, age 11 and Drew, age 12.
R AC HEL G O R DO N, pediatric nurse and blogger, Atlanta, GA. Daughters: Isabelle and Madison, 2-year-old twins.
How often do you shop for your kids? I shop seasonally, and a bit in between based on upcoming vacations.
How often do you shop for your kids? I’m always browsing, but at least twice a year.
How important are sales? I do pay attention to sales, especially for brands that are more premium. But sales don’t necessarily dictate how I shop.
When are you most likely to splurge? For special occasion items and shoes.
What’s your sweet spot price-wise? For underwear, I spend around $30 to $40 a pack, outerwear varies between $40 and $100 and my sons’ shoes can be anywhere from $40 to $120 due to their specific athletic needs. My daughter’s shoes are typically between $30 to $60.
Do you prefer shopping online or in-store? Online, due to the time constraints of being a working mom.
What’s your ideal price range? Shoes, anywhere from $30 to $60 and outerwear, probably up to $200. I don’t really have an accessories budget for my toddler—we just get what we like when we like it, within reason.
Do you prefer shopping online or in-store? All three kids have very busy schedules, so unless I carve out time in advance, I’ll shop online. For special occasion items though, I always prefer to go to stores.
When are you most likely to splurge? When I’m shopping by myself or when there’s a sale or limited release.
What are your kids’ favorite stores? My sons love Dick’s Sporting Goods, and my daughter enjoys shopping at Everafter in Tribeca.
Do you prefer shopping online or in-store? I do a bit of both. Because 2T means something different from one brand to the next, it makes shopping challenging in general. However, when it comes down to it, I mostly shop online.
Do you like receiving suggestions from store employees? I do if they are truly looking to help us find something, not if they are making a suggestion based on commission.
Any go-to retailers? I like Target and Zara. My son’s growing so much, plus everything gets dirty in two seconds. It just makes the most sense to buy from lower-price retailers for the day-to-day. What are some of your favorite brands? Kith, Mini Rodini, Nununu, Adidas, Billionaire Boys Club—they have some cute options. It can be really challenging to find brands that focus on boys. What’s your biggest childrenswear pet peeve? Anything pink and blue or designs that lack in creativity. What’s your favorite trend right now? Less boho and more hype kid. Any suggestions for designers? The sizing for kids is just all over the place! It would also be nice to see more choices out there for boys.
How about your family’s favorite brands? We’ve always loved Appaman, from the infant- to preteen-hood. Stella McCartney is another staple when it comes to fun items and dresses. They are great for passing down to friends and family. Pink Chicken is another great quality brand. And Chaser offers awesome lightweight, quality clothes, too. What’s your favorite trend? I love that girls and boys can wear whatever color they want. My boys love hot pink and my daughter loves wearing sportier clothes mixed in with feminine skirts and dresses. Anything goes, and that’s fantastic! Your least favorite trend? I’ve never been a fan of kids wearing characters. I’m also not into shoes that light up.
What are some of your favorite children’s brands? Mud Pie (so cute), Bella Bliss (great quality), Old Navy and Carter’s (basics at an unbeatable price) and Hanna Andersson (fun PJs and play dresses).
What’s your biggest pet peeve when shopping for your girls? Inconsistent sizing is frustrating. Do you like receiving suggestions from store employees? Sure—as long as it doesn’t feel too sales-y. What’s your favorite trend of late? I love bloomer sets! Your least favorite trend? I hate rompers due to potty training! Any advice for the childrenswear designers? Practicality is so important for moms. Comfort and ease should be kept in mind when designing for babies. As for toddlers, clothes should be easy to take on and off for potty training. And onepiece bathing suits should always have a snap at the bottom!
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TREND WATCH Zef pleated skirt
Kids on the Moon ruffle dress
Émile et Ida trousers
Villalobos + Nieves Ă lvarez at Pitti Bimbo
Barn of Monkeys paper bag pants
Munster Kids hooded button-down
Go Gently Nation dress
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Sensing a Pattern
Caffé D’orzo tank dress
INSPIRED BY THE ’90s redux hitting fall runways, rad plaids, preppy houndstooth and trendy tartans pack a powerful punch for back-to-school. —Aleda Johnson
Derhy Kids jacket
Colmar puffer
Douuod hoodie dress
Please at Pitti Bimbo
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Carly wears Hurley hoodie, Vans checkered pants, Project 6 NY rope belt and vintage hat and scarf. 11 8 8
PHOTOGRAPHY BY FRANCK MALTHIERY
LAYERED LOOKS WITH AN ATHLEISURE ATTITUDE LEAD THE WAY IN TWEEN STYLE.
STYLING BY MARIAH WALKER
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(From left): Nika wears Light+Nine hat, For All Seasons jacket, buttondown and sweatshirt by Lacoste, Splendid leopard print pants and Vans sneakers; Carly wears Little Lids hat, Dal Lago blazer, Yporque buttondown, hoodie by Jill Yoga and Splendid pants; Jaelise wears vintage scarf, Andorine denim shirt, Appaman suit jacket and Puma joggers. 21
Carly wears Little Lids hat, vintage scarf, Nununu longsleeve shirt, Jordan jersey, Tractr transparent jacket, Tommy Hilfiger pants and stylist’s own umbrella. 22
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Nika wears Puma bucket hat, Puma hoodie, Tru Luv skirt and JRP socks. Opposite page: Dylan wears Tommy Hilfiger jean jacket, Appaman suit jacket, Puma joggers, Echo scarf, Ray-Ban sunglasses and vintage hat. 25
From left: Nika wears Vogue sunglasses, Tru Luv zip-up, Appaman shirt, Puma hat and vintage scarf; Dylan wears Dal Lago vest and Jordan sweatshirt. 26
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Jaelise wears Puma cap, Tractr pink coat, Bella Dahl plaid top, Big Love leggings and Champion fanny pack. Opposite page: Jaelise wears Just Cavalli leopard print hat, Add jacket, Wildfox Kids hoodie, Scotch & Soda joggers, LittleMissMatched socks and Converse sneakers. Hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/ Utopia NYC using Oribe Hair Care and Milk Makeup; digital management by Benoist Lechevallier; styling assistance by Enid Hunt. Typography by Tiffany Thebodeau. 28
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DESIGNER CHAT
MOVING TO THE Big Apple to fulfill her dreams of becoming a fashion designer, Julia Arledge was quickly turned off by the sky-high cost of living. She packed her bags and got out of town faster than a New York minute. Not one to give up on a dream, however, the Atlantanative moved home and refocused her efforts on fulfilling her dream. Harkening back to her childhood when she would sketch designs using materials from her mom’s needlepoint company, Arledge started ML Fashions, a vintage-inspired girls’ clothing line named after her Chinese name Meng Lin (meaning dream). The company hit the market running. Debuting at AmericasMart Atlanta three years ago, ML Fashions quickly attracted buyers. “I had two designs featured in a fashion show that had me staying at the mart until 10 p.m. writing orders,” Arledge says. Now in more than 600 stores across the country, Arledge’s dream of becoming a fashion designer has come true. But she’s not stopping there. ML Fashions recently expanded with a special occasion line, ML Couture. Arledge decided to introduce the collection last year after designing a lacy, wedding-ready dress that retailers adored. “It’s been performing quite well, especially in stores with bridal business,” she says. “It’s always been difficult to find pretty princess dresses without spending over $200—so finally there’s an answer.” The couture dresses range from $80 to $120, and are available in sizes 6 months to 14 years.
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“I’ve had customers say they’ve already sold out and need more,” Arledge adds. “Turns out, you don’t need to live in New York to make dreams of being a fashion designer come true!” —Aleda Johnson What sets ML’s designs apart from the competition? I owe much of my brand’s success to growing up around my mother’s business. I would buy suitcases of fabrics and sit in my room playing with all the elements on my little sewing machine. Today, I still enjoy making regular trips to China’s textile markets, sourcing quality materials for my business. What trends have you been focusing on of late? Bomber jackets and leopard print will be huge across the market for both Fall ’19 and Spring ’20. Denim is another material I’ve added to my fall collection for more contrast in my lighter, flowier styles popular in the south. For cooler climates, I incorporated lots of layering, including tunics, leggings and vests. Spring will also see cooler versions of the same with lacy denim shorts, leopard print tops and jackets with patches. How’s business? We’re doing quite well. We have had great opportunities this year and have been able to grow into some larger accounts, such as Chasing Fireflies and the Marshall Group. We’re very hopeful that this growth will continue as we expand into additional markets.
Where do you envision ML Fashions in five years? We’re working on expanding our business to more international locations, including a bigger presence in Canada. My dream is to become a household name in children’s clothing, where we present at the fashion show and hear people say, ‘That’s ML,’ before the emcee makes the announcement. I mean, look how far we’ve come in just five years—it’s crazy to think about all the potential! Is there a designer you look up to for inspiration? My favorite is Coco Chanel—not only for her designs, but her background. Growing up in an orphanage, she had all the odds stacked against her but managed to survive and become a fashion giant. Her designs are elegant and classic. The simplicity paired with the attention to detail is impeccable. What do you love most about being a designer? I love taking something I dream up and watch it become something tangible. I often get tagged on social media with gorgeous pictures of kids wearing our outfits. It’s always flattering to hear when a little girl will refuse to change out of an outfit, or to hear her parents had to buy two of the same outfit, just so they could wash the dirty one. Those stories bring me so much joy and motivate me to continue designing fashionforward looks little ones will love, season after season.
BE THE BUYER
BROUGHT TO YOU BY
Risk Taker Jasmine Punzalan, owner of Kodomo in Boston, on growing her business by pushing boundaries with her buys.
Over 80 Years of Happy Baby Feet
EDUCATE YOUR CUSTOMERS When we came to Boston, the kids’
fashion scene was nonexistent, but people were yearning for something different. That’s why I’ve been successful—by pushing boundaries. The typical Boston kid isn’t going to necessarily wear a wild Caroline Bosmans dress, but I buy it to educate my customers. If you open a conversation about why your prices are a little higher, you’d be surprised how many parents become okay with paying more for clothes that aren’t fast fashion—meaning HOME RUNS they’ll actually last for siblings to wear over and over again. Now that’s value! THE CHANGE CONSTANT Just because something
was super successful last year, doesn’t mean it’s going to perform well this year. Kids change so much, so you have to stay up on what’s popular and know clients on a deeper level to anticipate what they’ll want next. It’s challenging. What you buy is constantly evolving, but it’s also what keeps the job interesting! ASK QUESTIONS When a brand catches my eye
Playwear Mini Rodini Layette Gray Label
Toys Kiko+ and gg*
Visit us during the Summer Shows in
AT LANT A & DAL LAS 1-800-325-6116 | www.baby-deer.com
Dresswear Tutu du Monde Shower Gift Hansa Toys Accessories
at a trade show, I ask the same questions: Tell Atsuyo et Akiko me about your brand? How and where do New Brand you manufacture? How do you choose your Hundred Pieces retailers? I don’t want a brand that sells to just anybody. I want a brand that’s choosing partners carefully and aligning effectively with them. The more transparent a brand is, the more likely I’ll feel comfortable doing business with them. SHOW UP A lot of retailers find it too costly and time-consuming to
attend trade shows, but I believe it’s important to see everything in person first. I’ve bought things without touching them, and it was a huge letdown upon delivery. So go to shows and make showroom appointments. It’s worth it to ensure what you’re ordering is the quality your customers deserve. CHALLENGE THE NORM Kids should be able to express themselves
however they want. And although Boston is still conservative in many ways, Kodomo doesn’t have separate boys’ and girls’ sections. I merchandise based on colors and outfits. It takes time, but we’re definitely influencing patrons to be more openminded. Customers come in and say, ‘I just saw a Kodomo kid!’ We’re so proud to be making such a statement in the community. w w w. i l o v e p l a y t i m e . c o m
www.marendesigns.com SPONSORED CONTENT
contact@marendesigns.com
BEHIND THE SEAMS
Spirit Guide MaRen undergarments promote body positivity and health education for young girls.
Good Ideas
The Circle Collective rolls out chic, ethically sourced collection. WHEN LAUREN CLARKE Jensen became a mother to her first child, she and her sister Rachael Potts Clarke had an epiphany about manufacturing in children’s apparel. The sisters had long travelled the world— from India to Australia to Singapore—and were firm believers in making sustainable fashion choices. “I was becoming attuned to how damaging the clothing industry was and how disposable our choices can be,” says Potts Clarke. “When I wasn’t finding stylish, sustainable clothing for my niece, I thought, ‘Why don’t we just do it?’” On her next trip to India, where the sisters had long been fascinated by traditional artisan textiles, Potts Clarke met with suppliers. Using Clarke Jenson’s fashion experience as former editor-inchief at Harper’s Bazaar Singapore and Potts Clarke’s business savvy as a lawyer on Wall Street, they started The Circle Collective in 2018. The collection of stylish pieces is made in factories Potts Clarke visited personally to ensure their sustainability standards were up to snuff. For example, the layette items are made from 100-percent organic cotton printed with AZO-free dyes by a nonprofit in Mumbai that trains people from disadvantaged communities in tailoring and needlework. Other clothes are made in a fair trade facility in Jaipur, and another factory uses a waste water filtration system to recycle water used in the production
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process. “It’s critically important to us that our suppliers are focused on minimizing waste in the production process,” she says. For Spring ’20, the sisters are putting together a brightly colored collection with a supplier that specializes in vintage block prints—a hallmark trait of the brand. “People love our colors and prints because they’re largely missing from the market,” Potts Clarke says. Sustainability and fair trade story is a hit with consumers as well. “We don’t want to be part of a system where women are paid inadequate wages and working in uncomfortable conditions, and that’s resonated across demographics you wouldn’t immediately expect.” First launching as a direct-to-consumer brand, the sisters went wholesale with a soft launch at select trunk shows late last year. “It has been an amazingly effective way to meet the customers,” Potts Clarke says, noting the feedback has been invaluable. The Circle Collective first targeted resort towns in New England, and is now working its distribution down the coast. Potts Clarke is harnessing Instagram to get the word out about the brand. “Touting Instagram is so hackneyed at this point, but it’s the truth,” she says. And the interest so far is strong. “Many store owners who carry adult clothing are very much looking to expand into children’s,” Potts Clarke says. “We couldn’t be more excited for the opportunities to come!” —Aleda Johnson
WHEN ALISIA GRENVILLE’S mother was suffering from breast cancer, after hiding her diagnosis from the family for years, the young mother vowed to always have an open dialogue with her daughter about the importance of women’s health. Out of the healthy relationship spawned Grenville’s idea for a girls’ undergarment brand to spread the conversation to other mothers and their daughters. Named after her young daughter Maren, the Canadian brand debuted last August, offering age-appropriate styles of delicate, high-quality bras, underwear and camisoles. “It’s perfect for Mom to gift her daughter and start talking about the importance of body positivity and selfcare at an early age,” Grenville says. The bras retail for $32, underwear for $22 and camisoles for $45 with adorable gift packaging options available. Grenville has also established the MaRen Foundation, an organization that provides health education and complimentary bras to less privileged girls and sponsors an ambassador for youth design contests. “I think to make a brand successful it has to come from a spirited place— something you truly believe in,” Grenville says. “I live to connect with retailers and customers who can help educate our youth on the importance of loving themselves and their bodies.” Looking ahead, Grenville, who grew up in Canada and lives in Switzerland , aims to expand in the European and North American markets, starting with trade shows and pop-up events soon. She adds that the brand has plans to branch into a similar positivity-themed concept in boys’ apparel, inspired by her twin sons. “We’ll never be about just making undergarments,” Grenville says. “We’re here to make a difference in the lives of young people.” —Emily Beckman
Just Go with Knit Knitwear company 525 America launches its first children’s line. WHEN 525 AMERICA president Elissa Bromer became a grandmother, she saw an opportunity to give consumers the only kind of shrinkage they want from knitwear: a collection of children’s takedowns. The company known for modern designs in fabrics like cotton, chenille and cashmere, is launching children’s this fall. “ E l i s sa w a t c h e d h e r daughter wanting to dress her child in 100 percent cotton and great quality clothing, but couldn’t find much,” says Jodie Kovler, national sales director. “We realized there’s a whole generation of moms who want to dress their kids in luxurious, quality styles, and we can give that to them.” Starting with a direct-to-consumer soft launch on Mother’s Day, the brand offered mini me versions of its top five women’s styles, with more classic silhouettes in the mix for fall. Available in sizes 2 to 14, the contemporary styles, like the classic Emma shaker, are made with machine-washable, 100-percent cotton or cashmere with a soft handfeel to keep kids comfortable. Finding the right color palette was one of the biggest challenges, according to Kovler. “Outside of New York, where parents put their kids in black, moms and dads really love bright colors,” she says. Staying true to the brand, the line (SRP: $58-$98) is awash in bright orchids and beautiful jade hues. “Our rep Ilene Oren & Co has been very helpful in guiding us in right direction,” Kovler adds. “There’s a lot to learn about what parents want to put on their kids.” Looking ahead, Spring ’20 will see the addition of whimsical neck treatments and poppy graphics to the classic shaker style. The first wholesale shipments of Fall ’19 goods will arrive in mid-July. Notable accounts include Lester’s in New York and Penny’s from Heaven in Chicago. Focusing on specialty stores, Kovler reports interest from its current retail partners seeking to branch into children’s with 525 America. “We’ve spoken to stores who’ve been loyal women’s customers of ours for years, and they love the idea of 525 offering children’s,” she says. With companies like Rent the Runway adding children’s categories, Kovler sees it as perfect timing for 525 America to make its move into childrenswear. The extension further cements its mission of being a multigenerational brand, suitable for retired grandparents, working moms and now stylish children. “Mom knows good quality when she sees it,” Kovler says, hinting that the company may expand into the layette and gift packaging markets down the road. “We listen to our customers, and trust that they’ll guide us in the right direction.” —A.J.
MEET THE NEWEST EDITION OF E A R N S H AW ’ S B U Y E R B O X :
The Tween Scene We’re shipping an awesome parcel to the doorstep of 150 key buyers next month. Each package will include samples and information from select tween-friendly brands.
Limited space available! Contact Noelle.Heffernan@9Threads.com for details.
W H A T ’S S E L L I N G
C’est Chou by Sienna Miami, FL HEN THE TWEENS in her life struggled with the sartorial How would you describe your core customer? We get a lot of transition out of kids’ styles, Vivien Kozlovski searched tireolder girls who, thanks to Instagram, want to look older than they lessly for a solution. She scoured her local Miami market yet should be dressing. A lot of moms will buy from me because we have couldn’t find “anything in the stores that a tween would wear.” Rather such a cool, rock and roll aesthetic. They’re looking for the European than keep looking, she decided to open her own store. Kozlovski recool, so they will wear a leather skirt and polka dot sweatshirt instead searched brands extensively on Instagram and attended a trade show, of the typical jean shorts and tees. going booth to booth to get a lay of the land before partnering with a local Miami store on a tween pop-up. It led to being offered a spot in What are some of your top-selling brands? Little Remix is the Miami’s coveted design district, where she opened C’est Chou by Sienna biggest because moms and tweens love how environmentally con(named after her daughter) last December. scious they are. We have one dress that is Nestled among designer flagships like made of 100-percent recycled plastic. Les Prada, Hermés and Cartier, the 450-squareCoyotes de Paris is also popular because it’s foot boutique is the go-to place for Miami European cool. Molo is another top brand. tweens who want that perfect balance Louis Louise is popular for the little baby between cool teen and carefree kids. With we carry as gifts. My brands aren’t cheap, space a premium, Kozlovski keeps a highly but moms find them worth it. curated collection of brands like Unlabel, Molo, Little Remix, Les Coyotes des Paris How about accessories? We do well and Velveteen, which add to the store’s with Herschel bags as well as Chloe K and European minimalist vibe. “I pick clothes Bari Lynn accessories, which are fun and you or I would wear, because tweens don’t well-priced. But I’ve had a really hard time want to look like little girls anymore,” she finding accessories that go with our aessays. “It’s adult clothing with a youthful thetic. I’ve shopped New York and Paris twist, so it’s not inappropriate.” Customers looking for anything different. I try not to love the selection so much, Kozlovski has order anything with emojis on it, which is expanded the assortment from sizes 8-16 everything these days. to 4-16, with some baby clothing mixed in for gifting. What do you see trending for Fall ’19? Maintaining sales growth in a niche market We’re pulling from Velveteen because they is tough, but Kozlovski believes C’est Chou have styles with a beautiful little bit of shimby Sienna succeeds by giving customers mer and gold in it. Metallics will be popular. what Amazon and larger department stores Darker colors like black will also be trending, C’est Chou by Sienna catches customers’ can’t: unrivaled customer service. To accombut I can’t sell that here because the Miami attention with its neat and colorful displays. modate her starved-for-time clientele for crowd doesn’t like dressing their kids in black. example, the store features a VIP service where Instagram followers can request house calls. Kozlovski herself What’s been the most effective way to spread the word about will bring clothes for try-ons, no purchases necessary. Anything to your store? I use social media all day, every day. Instagram is a great make the awkward tween shopping years more fun and accessible. tool where I make posts, and people write back to ask questions about “It’s painful to see tweens with their arms crossed like they don’t stock. It’s also linked to my Facebook page, so whatever gets posted want to try on anything,” Kozlovski says. “I coax them to just try one on one is posted on the other. thing, saying they won’t regret it. More often than not, they’re super happy.” —Aleda Johnson What’s the best business decision you’ve made of late? Learning to take my time and buy strategically. At first my customers may be How’s business? Pretty good. I try to find brands that the big chains shy to try a new brand, but that’s why I educate them. I had to learn and Amazon don’t carry. I was the first in the area to carry Molo and it’s all about patience and communication. Little Remix, so I can compete with brands no one else has. I have a few brands like Fluf lunch boxes that I did well with, despite them Any immediate or longer-term goals? I love this little space, but being sold on Amazon. I always have great customer service, telling I’d love to expand to more locations. We’ve proven the niche is there, every customer, “Thank you so much.” People are loyal, and they so now I’m looking for anyone who wants to invest. It should be an understand. exciting next chapter.
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IN THE BAG 1. IDecōz phone case, phone charms and adhesive card holder 2. Sparkle by Stoopher denim jacket 3. Vintage Havana tie-dye joggers 4. Soul Journey Jewelry bracelet 5. Malibu Sugar sports bra 6. Iscream journal and confetti pen 7. Petite ’n Pretty lip gloss 8. EMU Australia fuzzy slippers 9. Iscream transparent pom-pom backpack 10. Impala Rollerskates pink skates 11. Izzy Be beanie 12. Little Lady Products nail polish 13. Zomi Gems charm bracelet.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS
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All Clear The trendy transparent backpack by Iscream holds everything a tween gal on the go needs. Daily essentials like high-shine nail polish, shimmery lip gloss, colorful notebook, funky fur slides and retro roller skates (for that quick getaway) fit easily into this lightweight, roomy and stylish bag. —Emily Beckman
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FINAL CUT
It Takes Two Twin actors Cameron and Nicholas Crovetti share what it’s like to be fifth graders, competitive gymnasts and stars of HBO’s series Big Little Lies. By Emily Beckman
How would you describe your personal style? Cameron: Casual. I wear jeans, a long-sleeve shirt, Vans and a puffer jacket. I love puffer
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because it has everything, and you don’t have to walk around. Cameron: Well, sometimes we go to Nordstrom. Why Nordstrom? Nicholas: They have all the clothes I like—seriously, all of them. Cameron: Yeah, it’s like a one-stop area. What’s some of your favorite brands? Nicholas: Definitely Nike, Adidas and Ralph Lauren for me. Cameron: It’s Appaman, Guess, Zara, La Miniatura and Vans for me. What’s one big trend you’ve shopped for of late? Nicholas: Ripped jeans! Cameron: And mismatched stuff. Like one of our friends wears one red Nike and one red Adidas at the same time. It’s so funny!
FA S T FAV E S Sport: Soccer and gymnastics. Activities: Swimming, skiing and making movies on our iPads. Movie: Anything Marvel and Horror TV Show: A Series of Unfortunate Events Food: PB&J, chicken nuggets and rigatoni pasta.
Do you get a lot of fashion inspiration from social media? Nicholas: Yes! We love Instagram, especially. Who do you follow? Cameron: Lots of people from the show, like Nicole Kidman. She’s so nice.
jackets, especially my black one. Nicholas: I’m more sporty. I like tennis shoes and my galaxy jacket.
Has she given you any advice to succeeding in acting? Nicholas: Just to keep working really hard. Even if it’s a lot of lines, you have to be confident, practice and eventually it’ll get easier. Cameron: We had an audition today with nine pages of lines. I was like, ‘I’m never going to get this,’ but I was finally able to do it after lots of tries.
Where’d you find your galaxy jacket? Nicholas: Amazon. I just typed in ‘galaxy jackets and hoodies’ and a bunch of cool stuff popped up. Not sure what brand it is, but I wear it all the time. Do you typically shop online? Nicholas: Yeah, we shop a lot online. We like Amazon
Are you planning to stay in entertainment? Nicholas: I don’t think so. I’m going to medical school, and I want to become a doctor. Cameron: I plan to stay in the business. I want to become a director, producer or maybe still an actor. It would be really fun to work on horror movies!
Animal: Dogs! We have two big ones— Jake and Zuma.
P HOTO G RAP H ER: BE N CO P E; STY LIN G : EN R IQ UE ME LE N D EZ ; G R OO MI NG : TAM M Y Y I
LIVING IN HOLLYWOOD and working alongside A-list celebrities like Meryl Streep, Shailene Woodley, Nicole Kidman and Reese Witherspoon is a remarkable accomplishment for any actor, but especially if you’re just 11 years old! Cameron and Nicholas Crovetti, the twin actors playing sons of Nicole Kidman’s lead character on HBO’s “Big Little Lies,” excitedly rattle off stories of their experiences on the set, including play dates at Kidman’s pool, Jenga games with Meryl Streep and lots of yummy catering. “We get peanut butter and jelly sandwiches when we’re done with every shot,” Cameron says. “Remember that day they had churros?” Nicholas adds. “I had like 10!” The twins developed an interest in acting four years ago after watching their older sister Isabella (the voice of popular children’s show character Vampirina) appear as a regular in shows like “The Neighbors” and “Colony”. Starting with commercials, the twins quickly landed their first major TV roles in “Big Little Lies.” “We didn’t know all the famous people we were working with at first,” Cameron says. “But then our mom had us watch a lot of their movies, and we were like, ‘Wow, this is so awesome!’” If that’s not impressive enough, the twins pack their schedule further with gymnastics 16 hours a week on a Junior Olympic competitive team. “It’s such a fun sport,” Nicholas says, adding that he also enjoys playing soccer and making TikTok videos with his brother in their spare time. Cameron is more involved with singing and participates in musicals each year. “It’s a lot of stuff to do, but it’s all really fun,” he says. Nicholas nods in agreement and, ever the budding Hollywood star, says, “The new season of ‘Big Little Lies’ comes out this month—don’t forget to watch!”
AUGUST 4 • 6, 2019 Metropolitan Pav. & Altman Building
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