Earnshaw's | March 2014 by Wainscot Media

A M E R I C A N M A D E : T H E S T O R Y O F PAT Y, I N C .

VOLUME 98 NUMBER 3

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S L E E P W E A R S A L E S WA K E U P

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E U R O P E A N R U N WAY R E P O R T

MARCH 201 4 $10.00

WARM FRONT Fall Fashion Gets Cozy

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Cutie Pie 34 W 33rd St. 5th Fl New York, NY 10001 212.279.0022 cutiepiebaby.com EARN_Mar2014.indd 26

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ENK Children’s Club

March 9-11

Jacob Javits Center

Booth# 8760

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MARCH 2014 Noelle Heffernan Publisher

FEATURES

Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief

14 No Time to Snooze With sleepwear sales on the rise and more and more brands breaking into the category, here’s how to freshen up your shut-eye assortment.

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Social Media Editor

28 Baby Boom Derrick Veillon, president at Paty, Inc., reveals big plans to put the Peruvian-born, American-made infant brand back on the map nationwide.

ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Alex Marinacci Account Executive

46 Euro Pop Eye-catching color and trendy techno-inspired prints burst onto the fashion scene at Pitti Immagine Bimbo, Playtime Paris and Bubble London.

Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster

FASHION

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com

34 Baby, It’s Cold Outside Designers lend a soft touch to fall’s cozy fashion.

Circulation Office Joel Shupp 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

4 Editor’s Note 6 Talking Points 10 Hot Properties 12 Fresh Finds 20 On Trend 24 In the Bag 26 On the Shelf 52 Behind the Seams 56 Stargazing

From left: Mayoral sweater dress and printed pants; Andy & Evan cardigan, Frenchie Mini Couture striped button down shirt, Appaman pants; Guess jacket and top, skinny jeans by Tractor. Photography by Raphael Buchler. Styling by Angela Velasquez. Hair and makeup by Sabrina Rowe for Next Artists.

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published monthly by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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editor’s note WALKING PAST THE Bloomingdale’s windows one weekend in February, a beautiful Diane von Furstenberg dress caught my eye. Then I looked down at the sidewalk, still covered in slushy snow, and at my leather boots, coated in a filmy layer of sidewalk salt, and I laughed aloud. There would be no pastel sundresses in my immediate future. All I wanted in the midst of our very brutal winter was another hat to replace the one I lost, and perhaps one of the sleek new puffer coats the kids were sporting on the runways at Pitti Immagine Bimbo this year. (For a full breakdown of the fashion trends across the pond, read our European Report on p. 46.) Oh, and an all-expensespaid Caribbean getaway. Is that so much to ask for? Yet Bloomingdale’s was selling a sleek new sundress. Meanwhile, snow boots were in scarce supply at local stores, as shoppers scrambled to cope with the second snowiest February on record for New York City. Even more inexplicably, many of the remaining boots were on sale! This winter it seemed somewhat absurd that the retail industry continues to unveil spring merchandise in the height of winter, with markdowns following shortly thereafter—especially since so many shoppers nowadays seek immediate gratification from their purchases.

Weather or Not Will record cold and snow finally convince the retail commmunity to shift its calendar?

It’s even a challenge in the children’s industry, where many retailers admit spring merchandise is lingering on shelves a bit longer than usual this year. “It’s moving, but it’s moving relatively slowly,” says Simone Oettinger, owner of Maya Papaya & Tony Macarony in Evanston, IL. “On the other hand, I didn’t mark down my winter stuff as much as I would have if people were buying lots of spring stuff,” she adds. What’s a small shop to do? If Bloomingdale’s is tempting shoppers with sundresses in February, independent retailers certainly can’t wait for the weather to warm up before stocking up on shorts and tees. But wouldn’t it make more sense for the industry at large—even the big dogs—to give it a month or two before springing spring merchandise on winter-weary consumers? Less markdowns! More sales! Who’s with me? Let’s start a campaign— with our headquarters in the Caribbean, please.

AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

audrey.kingo@9threads.com

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Talking

Guess

Points TOUGH LOVE

Denim Dish

Get the skinny on Fall ’14 jeans. Denim brands are pressing the reset button once again. “Customers are getting bored with basic denim, so it’s time to jazz things up and make denim fun to wear again,” reports Diane Kuczer, cofounder and vice president of Tractor Jeans. That call for more daring denim stretches beyond the playground. Thanks to the Internet and social media, girls are becoming very aware of women’s trends, notes Will Redgate, vice president of Blank NYC. “They look for styles that best represent what they see celebrities and bloggers wear,” he explains. Here’s a peek at the buzzworthy denim on tap for fall. —Angela Velasquez

Inky-hued denim casts a moody spell for Fall ’14. “Last year we were shopping a rainbow, but I see kids pulling back this fall and wearing a lot more gray in both denim and non-denim,” Jordache President Liz Berlinger says, adding, “It creates a darker, more dramatic vibe.” The look echoes the overall moto trend revving up children’s fashion—just look at Ralph Lauren’s distressed denim jackets and Tractor’s ripped skinny jeans repaired with slices of pleather. Zipper pockets toughen up Jordache’s super skinny stretch jeans for girls, while Blank NYC is pairing raw-edge patchwork denim with its collection of vegan leather jackets.

Tractor

MIXED MEDIA

In lieu of color, designers are adding prints and contrasting textures to collections. “You’ll see denim fronts with vegan suede backs, printed fabrics mixed with denims and denim washes that reveal prints such as plaids in blasted areas only,” Kuczer describes. Tractor even strikes a warm and cozy feel with Fair Isle printed denim. Glitter continues to attract the eye of girly girls, Berlinger reports, especially silver and dark blue for holiday looks. Digitized camouflage prints from Jordache and materials like Neoprene, which Blank NYC is blending with denim, add a hi-tech look to jeans.

Andy & Evan

SOFT WEAR

With brands collectively focusing on soft, moveable materials for fall, Berlinger predicts skinny jeans and leggings will lead the pack once again. “These materials let kids be kids,” she explains. In fact, in the wake of a wave of designer sweatshirts and hoodies, expect to see softer iterations of blue jeans for both boys and girls. Blank NYC is introducing knit denim constructed and washed to look like traditional denim, while both Blank NYC and Tractor are adding denim knit track pants to their collections. As Kuczer notes, “The softer the denim, the better.”

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New Money

Before jumping on the bitcoin bandwagon, learn how the digital currency works. AFTER EXISTING FOR years in the shadows of cyberspace, bitcoin is slowly but surely digging its way into the real world as the buzzed-about currency becomes a preferred method of payment for business owners both online and off. But first thing’s first: What is it? Originally developed in 2008, bitcoin is what’s known as a crypto-currency. It’s both a decentralized currency and a payment system that exists entirely online, allowing users to exchange money anonymously. To put it plainly, it’s an electronic version of cash. “Using bitcoin it’s possible to send money like an e-mail—to anyone, anytime, anywhere—without going through a bank or government or corporation,” says Stephanie Wargo, vice president of marketing for BitPay, a digital currency payment processor. Salt Lake City-based Overstock.com, for one, is reaping the benefits of using the new form of money. Since announcing its acceptance of bitcoin on

Jan. 9, the discount e-tailer has received nearly 3,000 orders in bitcoin, worth a total of more than $600,000. Electronics retailer TigerDirect experienced similar results when it began accepting the digital currency on Jan. 23, reportedly processing more than $500,000 in bitcoin payments within three days. Even small business owners are getting in on the action: City Wine Cellar in Staten Island, NY, currently accepts the virtual currency for online orders and plans to add a bitcoin-enabled POS system soon. Third-party payment processors like BitPay and Coinbase allow individuals to buy and sell bitcoin with a U.S. bank account and allow merchants to accept the digital currency as payment. And it only takes up to 24 hours to convert bitcoins to dollars as opposed to the standard 48 to 72 hours that credit card processing can take. Another upside is that retailers can process bitcoins with a fee of just 1 percent compared with up to 3.5 percent that some credit cards charge. Wargo adds, “The ability for merchants to accept bitcoins makes these transactions irreversible (which means no chargebacks), and for the buyer the risk of fraud and identity theft is eliminated.” But that doesn’t mean the currency should be blindly embraced and adopted. How much one bitcoin is worth in dollars is determined by the market—at the moment that’s somewhere around $668, but last December it peaked at more than $1,000. And that’s not all: In recent months the cryptocurrency has suffered setbacks ranging from the arrest of traders involved in drugs, arms dealing and money laundering to problems with its code that allowed people to fudge one transaction to make it look like two. Indeed, several significant risks need to be assessed and addressed before bitcoin can become a regular and reliable method for consumer transactions, notes Ryan Straus, a bitcoin expert and financial services attorney at Seattle-based law firm Riddell Williams. “Retailers should make sure they understand how bitcoin works before accepting it,” he advises, adding, “If they choose to accept bitcoin directly, they should be comfortable with extreme price fluctuations. If they decide to accept it indirectly [through sites such as BitPay or Coinbase], they should do due diligence on the third party.” —Lyndsay McGregor

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Easy Target

As cyber criminals crank up their attacks, security experts warn smaller stores are vulnerable, too. Here’s how to fight back. WHILE HOLIDAY SHOPPERS were stocking up on gifts last year, hackers were busy breaking into the security systems at some of the nation’s biggest retailers, including Target, Neiman Marcus and Michaels, and stealing credit card information on millions of consumers across the country. Called before Congress in February to explain the security lapse, Target’s Chief Financial Officer John J. Mulligan warned that all businesses “are facing increasingly sophisticated threats from cyber criminals”—and security experts agree. “Between 2010 and now, this has been happening, I would guess, to hundreds of businesses per month,” says Chester Wisniewski, senior security advisory at Sophos, a data security firm. “There’s really no way to quantify it because so many of the victims don’t even know they were victims,” he adds, noting it’s often hard to spot security lapses at smaller retailers, since it’s usually the sheer volume of fraudulent transactions that tip off credit card companies. So how can small retailers stay safe? “The No. 1 thing an organization can do to protect itself is to make sure that it’s running security software and updates for all the programs on its computers, and that the computer is really off limits for things other than what it’s designed to do, which is take money and process credit cards,” Wisniewski advises. Malicious malware spread on social media sites and in e-mail attachments is one of the most common ways cyber criminals gain access to sensitive data, so if store employees need to send work e-mails or manage the company’s Facebook account, invest in a second computer that’s not attached to the credit card reader. Even better, invest in an encrypted credit card reader that doesn’t hook up to the computer at all. The machines are expensive, but in the wake of the recent attacks, it looks like the payment card industry may be moving in the direction of encrypted readers and away from the magnetic swipe system that’s an easy target for cyber criminals. Most of Europe and Canada already utilize encrypted “chip” credit cards that require a PIN number for every transaction, a payment method that “largely eliminates retail fraud,” Wisniewski notes. By October 2015, all U.S. retailers will be required to switch to machines that accept the chip cards, but the move faces stiff opposition from many small merchants. “The ROI is questionable,” points out Ken Stasiak, the founder and CEO of SecureState, a management consulting firm focused on data security. Since millions of payment card terminals across the country will need to be replaced, “It’s a big infrastructure component that’s got to be reworked,” he says. “It’s a big cost that is either going to be absorbed by companies or passed onto the consumer.” In the meantime, Stasiak suggests brushing up on the payment card industry standards (www.pcisecuritystandards.org), which include suggestions like creating complex passwords and using a certified point-of-sale system. “A lot of small merchants aren’t even aware that these standards exist,” he notes. If it’s too complicated a task to tackle on your own, consider paying a local security expert to evaluate your systems a couple times a year, Wisniewski recommends. And retailers should definitely contact a security expert if they suspect a cyber criminal may have stolen their customers’ credit card details. “Don’t do anything on your own. Call the experts because at that point you could do more damage than good,” Stasiak suggests. Wisniewski also urges retailers to notify local law enforcement, so the incident can be recorded. Lastly, contact your state attorney general’s office, to find out your legal requirements. (Some states, for example, require retailers to post a notice in the newspaper.) And, of course, don’t wait for confirmation from the credit card companies if you believe your store may have been targeted. “If you suspect something is going on, that’s a good time to be proactive,” Stasiak adds. —Audrey Goodson Kingo

Come See What’s New

Childrens Club NYC March 9-11 Booth 7607 Phone (510) 324-8811 • Fax (510) 324-8828 • 1(800) 978-8088

contact@angeldear.net • www.angeldear.biz

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RESH FINDS

Make It Rain

Thanks to Oil & Water’s range of rainy day outerwear, little girls can finally brave spring showers in style. The fashion-forward collection includes a metallic gold field jacket, a classic city coat with chartreuse trim and a mod cape with faux fur lining. Wholesaling from $43 to $68, all styles feature washable, waterproof and water-resistant fabrics, as well as reinforced snaps and double stitching for durability. Sizes range from 2 to 14 years. Visit www.oilandwater. com.

Giddy Up

Blu Pony Vintage expands for Fall ’14 with the launch of Baby Blu Pony, a collection of clothing, shoes and accessories in sizes 3 months to 18 months. Drawing inspiration from ’20s and ’30s Americana, each piece features nostalgic details like hand-sewn embroidery and vintage lace trims. Even the silk and cotton booties are fastened with motherof-pearl buttons. Wholesale prices range from $12 to $89. Visit www. bluponyvintage.com.

Fresh Produce

Eastern-inspired style meets Americana appeal in fall’s eclectic new fashions.

Endue hits the market with its unisex line of organic pima cotton layettes for ages newborn to 18 months. Focusing on clean silhouettes and classic colors, everything is soft and durable and comes in gender-neutral shades, accented with the brand’s signature print. Wholesale prices range from $3 for socks to $26 for longsleeved rompers. Check out www.endue.com.

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United Nations

Designed with a sense of culture and creativity that explores the cohesion between Eastern techniques and Western clothing, new girls’ line Nandy & Molly is a collaboration between two friends who spent their childhoods living worlds apart. Standout styles for fall include woolen ponchos and coats in mossy green and eggplant, embellished with colorful floral embroidery. Wholesale prices range from $13 to $48 and sizes range from 6 months to 14 years. Check out www. nandyandmolly.com.

Free Spirit

Australian-based Dimity Bourke makes its U.S. debut with a bohochic collection for girls ages 2 to 12 years. Simple silhouettes in candy apple red and fuchsia are paired with Indian sari-inspired prints and embellished with ruffles, tulle and beaded ties for a look that’s equal parts cute and cool. Wholesale prices range from $15 to $179. Go to www.dimitybourke.com.

Green Living

Baby Care

The brainchild of dermatologist mom Dr. Amy Kim, Baby Pibu’s line of infant skincare includes everything a parent needs to care for and nourish newborn baby skin. From bottom balm to sunscreen, each U.S.-made product is free from parabens, phthalates and sulfates and has been fully tested by a team of board certified dermatologists. Available individually or as an all-inclusive essentials kit, wholesale prices range from $6.80 to $40.90. Go to www.babypibu.com.

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Luckypalmtree was born out of a love for fashion, a green thumb and a desire to support local businesses. Spanning bibs and burp cloths to blankets and bodysuits, everything is handmade in the U.S.A. from 100-percent certified organic fabrics and printed using low impact, non-toxic dye. Retail prices range from $14 to $64 and sizes range from 0-3 months to 24 months. Go to www. luckypalmtree.com.

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SHOP

class

NO TIME TO SNOOZE Parents will always need pajamas for their little ones, and with sleepwear sales on the rise, now may be the perfect time to freshen up your shut-eye assortment. By Cambrey Noelle Thomas

Kickee Pants

YOU WOULDN’T FALL asleep on a million dollar industry, would you? Scores of children tuck into bed every night, bundled in their favorite pajamas. For many children’s retailers, stocking plenty of pairs is a nobrainer. But even retailers who bowed out of the category in recent years may want to reconsider: The NPD Group reports the sleepwear industry grew 7.7 percent from 2012 to 2013, to more than $1.7 million, in just 12 months. With the trend pointing upward on an already perennial favorite, now may be the perfect time to reevaluate and revamp your store’s sleepwear and sleep accessories. Unlike seasonal items like toasty winter coats or summertime swimsuits, sleep is a nightly activity. “Kids will always need pajamas,” says Suzy O’Brien, owner and founder of Red Wagon, a children’s store in Boston, MA. She’s right, and with the National Sleep Foundation recommending that kids ages 1 through 12 get between 10 and 14 hours of sleep, that means a lot of pajama time— and likely more on weekends as kids snuggle in for Saturday morning cartoons and lazy Sundays. What’s more, parents are hungry for variety in pajamas, especially as kids grow past smaller sizes— a lesson learned first hand by Roxana Castillo, founder and owner of babywear line Kissy Kissy, which is introducing its first sleepwear collection for kids ages 1 to 6 beginning this fall. “We’ve received constant requests from our retail partners who’ve gotten similar requests from their customers,” Castillo says. “They tell us there are fewer options for soft, safe sleepwear.” THINK BEYOND BABY Toddler sleepwear has always been a go-to staple in the specialty market, but both retailers and manufacturers report an increased demand for big kid styles, too. In fact, Erin Cloke, designer and founder of Kickee Pants, an eco-friendly infant and toddler apparel line, decided to leap into larger sizes to keep up with customer requests. The new Catch a Tiger collection will expand Kickee Pants’ sleepwear collection up to age 10. “There’s not a lot of selection out there in those sizes,” she says. “People have been asking for pajamas specifically in bigger sizes, not just on the wholesale side, but on the retail side as well,” she says. Cloke attributes the push to older brothers and sisters who want to match their younger siblings, and kids who want to sleep in Kickee Pants even as they grow. “When a parent finds something they like and that the kid likes, they want it to carry through,” she says. “Those same parents are expecting that same quality in the larger sizes.” As for newborn babies and infants, most parents are perfectly happy to let a soft one-piece serve as

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sleepwear. But surprisingly, more moms are looking specifically for pajamas once their little ones hit the 12-month mark, says Maggie Jetter, owner and founder of Tweed Baby Outfitters in Nashville, TN. “I think more and more parents want to put their kids in actual pajamas,” Jetter notes. Her customers often come in looking for footed pajamas that are age appropriate for larger babies, especially boys. “It’s tricky finding that,” she admits. It’s even trickier because she advises her customers to go up one size since pajamas are washed frequently and tend to shrink. That’s why she makes sure to stock larger sizes when they’re available, even for infants, like Hatley’s one-piece coveralls. But when buying for a big age range, keep in mind that different prints appeal to kids of different ages. Andie Zacher, founder of Little Monsters in Milwaukee, WI, sticks to playful prints for infants and toddlers—for example, Skylar Luna’s vintage car prints for boys or tiny glitter heart-like polka dots for girls. For older boys she goes with the classics, like simple stripes, and for older girls, Zacher aims for a little sophistication, like this past season when she picked up an ombré rainbow pajama set by Skylar Luna.

“We have always sold more sleepwear going into the holiday season. A lot of people want matching sibling outfits.”

HOT FOR HOLIDAY While pajamas are worn year round, they take on new significance for kids and families during the holiday season. Whether for photo ops, gift giv-

ing, or just to have a nice pair for family gatherings, pajamas effortlessly embody the holiday spirit. Sentimentalism aside, holidays drive sleepwear sales in a way no other season can match—even months before Christmas day. “Holiday merchandise is usually put on the selling floor in October,” says Mike Diablo, president & COO of SGI Apparel Group, a division of the SG Companies. “We have always sold more sleepwear going into the holiday season. A lot of people want the matching sibling outfits,” says Tweed Baby’s Jetter. O’Brien also gets lots of requests for matching sets at Red Wagon, so she stocks up on Sara’s Prints, which come adorned with snowmen, candy canes, or Christmas trees in long-sleeved styles for boys and girls. “That’s the biggest time of the year for pajamas, and I think a lot of people tend to buy them for Christmas day,” confirms Cloke. In fact, Kickee Pants is working on its own designs with snowflakes, presents and lights for Fall ’14. The collection, a first for Cloke, is purposefully subtle. “We went with things that families across the board might share during the holiday,” she says. But don’t be afraid to indulge in the traditional symbols of the season— customers seem to like a little holiday excess, something Zacher quickly noticed after opening Little Monsters four years ago. “The funny thing about it is that as a buyer I tend to shy away from things that are really holiday oriented,” she says. “For instance, I don’t buy T-shirts that say things like ‘Happy Fourth of July,’ but with pajamas it’s directly the opposite. During the holidays, if I can find pajamas with little Christmas trees on them, those fly out of here—even though I would say my store is definitely more modern and the lines are a little cleaner.” Zacher even buys double, and sometimes triple, of her normal size orders because her holiday stock moves so quickly. The holidays are also a great time to try out pricier, more niche sleepwear brands. While pajamas are usually priced in the $20 through $40 range at

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Little Monsters, Zacher brought in British-based Darcy Brown pieces, which retail for about $75 a set. It worked for her because the brand’s sleepwear, a specialty, splurge-worthy item, arrived in her store just as shoppers were looking for gifts and willing to spend more. “People, mainly grandparents, love to buy pajamas for Christmas gifts,” she points out. GIVE THE GIFT OF SLEEP While holidays will always be a hit for pajamas, Karen Clarke, owner of Fiona’s Childrenswear in Sarasota, FL, believes the bedtime staple lends itself naturally to gifting all year round. “Children are going to wear pajamas everyday, and it’s just a great gift—it’s a functional gift. And I think that’s why people gravitate towards them,” she says. That’s why she started stocking Books To Bed, a pre-assembled pajama and book set that comes wrapped in cellophane and tied with ribbon. The sets have flown off the shelves: Clarke has had to reorder five times in a two-month period. She attributes the products’ success to parents and grandparents who gravitate toward its combination of what she describes as joyful and traditional. “Some of these are New York Times bestsellers,” she says. “But they are packaged so well and the price point is very nice—they’re roughly about $42.” While books are a natural accompaniment, there are countless other ways to set the mood when merchandising your sleepwear section. Jetter bundles hers with soft swaddle blankets and sleep sacks for her littlest customers. In Milwaukee, Zacher folds her organic Skylar Luna sleep sets on the same table as skin care products from Mustela to create a mini bed and bath section. Cloke agrees: “I think it is really effective to create that type of section with those things together to sell the lifestyle of it.” Currently she recommends dotting sleepwear sections with blankets, Cloud B’s soothing Twilight Turtles, child-friendly clocks and alarms, color-changing light timers to help with waking up and other items that would naturally fit in a bedroom scene at home. PLAY UP YOUR LOCALE Your store’s location should translate into your merchandise as well, especially if your area is well known for something special. For Nashvillebased Tweed Baby Outfitters, sleepwear by Magnolia Baby and Hatley with music themes and western prints are a sure-buy for many shoppers, Jetter says. “We couldn’t get enough of the cowboy theme, especially for the boys and even for the little girls,” she adds. “A lot of people come in wanting something that’s for the music industry or really Nashville.” Clarke first opened Fiona’s Childrenswear in Philadelphia and saw customers clamor year-round for lobster and crab print pajamas from New Jammies, but surprisingly she’s noticed the same since moving to her new Florida location. “It went well in Philadelphia because we were near the Jersey Shore, but here in Sarasota we’re on the Gulf Coast,” she says. “They’re just such a bright colorful print and people love them.” In Boston, O’Brien found a market for gender-neutral sleepwear sets with anchors and lobsters from Thingamajiggies 4 Kids. “Being in New England we sell nautical themed sleepwear best,” she says. To highlight the store’s bestselling sleepwear, she’s included them in a section devoted to all things crustacean, including themed books and plush toy lobsters. Even in areas that don’t immediately relate to sleepwear themes, parents and kids alike connect well to the whimsical. “Patterns that spark the imagination are best for sleepwear,” says Kissy Kissy’s Castillo. “You’re sending them off to dreamland, so the themes should be fun and sweet.” LOOK FOR CLASSIC CHARACTERS Outside of the ever-popular stars, solid colors and abstract patterns, kids love to wear their favorite characters from TV, books and movies. “Licensed character or entertainment sleepwear represents approximately 30 percent of all children’s sleepwear sold,” says SGI Apparel’s Diablo. Retailers can take advantage of those figures by offering a selection of licensed sleepwear, but Diablo advises specialty stores to stick with literary characters, and not the ones kids know from television

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shows and movies, to avoid direct competition with big box stores. “Specialty stores should carry more of the evergreen or classic licenses because the opportunistic or trend licenses are sold at reduced prices at the mass level,” he points out. Heather Jaffe, president and creative director at Jaxxwear Inc., agrees. She manufactures some of her pima cotton rompers, footies, and playsuits with art from The Very Hungry Caterpillar and several other Eric Carle books. While not technically sleepwear, the infants in Jaffe’s clothes tend to nap day and night in the soft designs. “It has been hugely successful [among retailers] because parents remember it from their own youth, so it has got a bit of retro appeal,” she says. Jaffe manufactures pieces under other licenses as well, but she found that Carle’s work translates especially well into the specialty space, linking well-known characters with that rare, parental approval, since the book is such a trans-generational icon. “There are 125 million of them sold worldwide, so one is sold every 30 seconds—taking his art work and translating it into apparel was a no-brainer.”

“Specialty stores should carry more of the evergreen or classic licenses because the opportunistic or trend licenses are sold at reduced prices at the mass level.”

STICK WITH SAFETY The Consumer Product Safety Commission has strict rules children’s sleepwear manufacturers have to meet before their wares even arrive in store, but all retailers should be fully aware of the safety measures required of what they’re buying. According to the CPSC, children’s sleepwear must be either tightly fitted and close to the body or flame resistant, as in fully or partially composed of an inflammable material or sprayed with a chemical

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flame retardant. Cloke chose the first method, a tight fit, for Kickee Pants. “I think that people are keenly aware of the fire retardant situation at this point,” she says, pointing to a few recent articles that link flame retardants to possible disruptions in normal growth and functions, something she thinks is terrifying, especially as a parent. “Parents who are concerned with those kinds of things are looking to ensure what they are buying doesn’t have a fire retardant on it.” Boutique owners Zacher, Jetter, and Clarke agree, and take care to buy close-fitting, long john styles for sizes 9 months and up. The CPSC also has a protocol just for retailers, to ensure that children’s sleepwear is labeled and sold correctly. First, all items merchandised as sleepwear must actually be sleepwear—meaning it meets either of the two requirements listed above and is manufactured specifically for the purpose of sleeping. Secondly, sleepwear needs to be placed separately and clearly away from other types of garments. There also needs to be clear language, either on a sign in the department, on the website or in the catalogue, explaining why these pieces are sleepwear and others are not. (Think of it as a simple disclaimer letting parents know why the sleepwear you’ve chosen is safe.) Finally, avoid promoting items not covered by sleepwear standards as sleepwear—say, for example, loungewear and T-shirts. After checking for safety, retailers can get back to the fun of curating the perfect sleepwear section. If you still need a few ideas on where to start, Kissy Kissy’s Castillo has a tip: “A good pajama is one you can’t wait to get into and don’t want to take off. For us, that means cute and comfortable. Who knows, maybe kids will actually want to go to bed now!” •

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for BABIES only Extraordinary garments for young sprouts! www.snopeawear.net

SNO P “ Fu EA - FA rry B LL’ 1 4 u #84 ddies ” 11

a e P o Sn

SNOPEA - FALL’ 14 “ Sweet Cuddles” #8916 14 SNOPEA - FALL’ etah ” “ Turquoise Che #8815

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SNOPEA - FAL L’ 14 “Liquorice sw irl ” #8512

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OnTrend Kiddo sweatshirt

Monkeez & Friends backpack

Magnificent Baby cap, top and footed pants

Luckypalmtree burp cloth

Frenchie Mini Couture terry bib

Jellycat plush squirrel

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS & CAMPBELL. STILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES.

Rashti & Rashti 3-piece set

2 0 E A R N S H AW S . C O M â&#x20AC;˘ M A R C H 2 0 1 4

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Max & Dora reversible skirt

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS & CAMPBELL. STILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES. RUNWAY PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO

Joyfolie sequin collar

Josmo creeper

Blu Pony Vintage dress

Quis Quis

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IN THE BAG

She may have switched to caffeine-free sweet tea during her pregnancy, but this new mother hasn’t lost one bit of her Southern charm. In fact, motherhood— and the latest baby accoutrements swathed in sophisticated prints and textures—has revealed a whole new and exciting world of ladylike accessories to discover. From a slim diaper tote that will make navigating the cluttered aisles of her favorite antique store a breeze to stylish teething baubles that rival her heirloom pearls, this mom’s still the belle of every ball. And pretty sorbetlike hues that complement her sunkissed tan only sweeten the deal. —Angela Velasquez

Southern Belle 2

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES

1. Bébé au Lait burp cloth 2. Posh Play mat and case 3. Bonnie Marcus Collection planner 4. Tommee Tippee sippy cup 5. Mud Pie diaper tote and changing pad 6. Dots on Tots cap 7. Smart Mom Jewelry teethable necklace 8. May28th watch 9. LunchSkins reusable snack pouch 10. B.Box bib and spoon 11. Little Giraffe teething rings 12. Southern Girl Soapery body cream 13. Aden+Anais blanket.

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Children’s World

Always on Trend for Every Occasion April Children’s World April 3 – 7, 2014 June Children’s World June 5 – 8, 2014 August Children’s World August 7 – 11, 2014 October Children’s World October 16 – 20, 2014

AmericasMart.com/ChildrensWorld

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On the Shelf

Mad Science

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Save the trophies for the jocks and the books for the worms. The latest products making geek chic cool not only offer the hands-on gooey, squishy appeal that make whiz kids tick but the y also come in bright, zany colors poised to make their bedroom pop with personality. The choices include everything from eco-friendly molding dough made from fruit and vegetable extracts to plush dolls in the lik eness of cells (yes, cells), and even modern day ant farms and the tried-and-true Slinky. These might not seem like your typical playthings, but with their eyes set on that coveted first-place ribbon in the science fair, the next generation of researchers, doctors and environmentalists can attest that these play specimens are indeed lab tested, kid-approved. â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Angela Velasquez

1. Eco-Kids natural and handmade molding dough 2. Big Mouth Toys garbage and recycling bin penholders 3. Melissa & Doug Blendy Pens and 3-D Play Figures 4. Alex Brands colored Slinkys 5. Yogibo pillow 6. Initials, Inc. customizable lunch bag 7. SmartLab Squishy Human Body model 8. Uncle Milton lighted gel ant colony 9. Eeboo 20-piece space puzzle 10. Giant Microbes common cold and brain cell plush toys.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES

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TFNY USA SHOWROOM

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Q& A

Ruth Abugattas (right) helped found Paty, Inc. in 1955 and paved the way for the brand’s current owners, Derrick and Caren Veillon.

Baby Boom NOT MANY CHILDREN’S companies can say American history is woven into the very fabric of their brand—literally. While more and more companies may be jumping on the Made-in-theU.S.A. bandwagon, most still look overseas when it comes to sourcing their fabrics. Not so for Paty, Inc. The Houston-based industry stalwart has supported the American textile industry for more than 40 years, sourcing the thread that makes up its signature knit from cotton mills in North Carolina. But it’s not only the thread and fabric that make every Paty, Inc. piece undeniably an American product. It’s also the story of the brand itself, a tale that embodies the very meaning of the American dream. Like many an American story, it begins in another country, in 1955, when two sisters decided to launch a children’s company in their hometown of Lima, Peru. As teenagers, Ruth and Faride Abugattas used handpowered looms in their home to make their own clothes. Their designs became so popular that by the time the sisters were in their 20s, they were manufacturing women’s clothing for much of the South American market. But with the birth of their niece, Paty, the two shifted gears and began making children’s clothing—and Paty, Inc. was born. When the political situation became unstable in their beloved country, the sisters looked to America for new opportunities, and moved the company to Houston in 1970. With new knitting machines from Germany, sewing machines from Italy, a 4,500-square-foot facility and a team of four, the sisters began producing

what would become one of the bestselling infant apparel brands in the U.S. Of course, it wasn’t easy at first—especially for two women from another country in the height of the Mad Men-era of business. “Being a Latin woman was a big challenge because even though you learn English in school you never practice it, and you have an accent,” says Ruth Abugattas, who served as vice president at Paty, Inc. until the sisters decided to sell the company in 2010. “At that time, there weren’t many Latin women in the United States, particularly in Houston. When we called people, they would ask for a Mr. Abugattas, and when we would say we don’t have a Mr. Abugattas, they would hang up the phone on us.” Through all the setbacks and successes, the sisters persevered, and built the brand into a nationwide presence, never once wavering on their commitment to manufacture in Houston, despite the difficulties of sourcing affordablypriced thread and machine components in a dwindling American textile market. Ruth largely chalks their success up to Faride, who served as the company’s president and passed away in 2011. “My sister was very intelligent and clever and she pushed us very hard,” Ruth describes. “Sometimes you don’t like it, but you end up being very grateful.” Paty’s commitment to American manufacturing and rich, distinctive history is exactly why Derrick Veillon and his wife Caren gravitated toward the company when it became available in 2010. That, and the fact that the pair

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVE ROSSMAN

After taking over at Paty, Inc., Derrick and Caren Veillon revamped the storied infant brand by paying homage to its Peruvian-born, American-made roots. Here, Derrick reveals why their labor of love will reap big dividends in 2014. BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

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the new gold standard in children’s shoes is purple Inside every purple pediped® box is an outstanding pair of shoes. Our stylish designs are the ultimate in comfort and each pair is specifically engineered to promote healthy foot development. pediped’s award winning shoes come in over 130 styles from newborn to Youth 4.5. www.pediped.com EARN_Mar2014.indd 15

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UP CLOSE WITH DERRICK VEILLON What are you reading right now? I just finished the book Killing Kennedy by Bill O’Reilly. I enjoy history and believe that we can learn so much by studying the past. I’m also re-reading Good to Great by Jim Collins. It reminds me to shrug off complacency and pursue greatness in everything we do both personally, and as a company. What superpower would you love to have? I would love to be able to fly so I could avoid the Houston traffic and fly into work. What’s your favorite way to spend a free afternoon? Ideally, I’d love to be in the backyard bouncing on the trampoline or playing kickball with my family. My wife and I have a 7-year-old little boy and a 3-year-old little girl. Everybody told us when these guys were small they were going to grow up too fast, and we’re seeing that now. We try to live a life with a no-regrets attitude. We just want to make as many memories with them as we can.

had a vested interest in children’s clothing, as the proud new parents of a 7-month-old girl. “After we met Ruth, we went down to the location and saw what Paty produces, and we fell in love with the clothes and the story of the company,” Veillon describes. “It was like walking into a big toy store. It was just a perfect fit for us.” It was also a perfect fit for Ruth, who was looking forward to enjoying her hard-earned retirement. Now, Derrick serves as president while Caren operates as the vice president of design and merchandising. With 10 years of experience in the gift industry, the two certainly weren’t novices in the wholesale industry, but decoding the children’s apparel market and mastering the ups and downs of domestic production, on the other hand, required a bit of a learning curve. While the Veillons could have rested on Ruth’s laurels and kept the respected brand chugging along at status quo, instead they decided to dive in full-force and ramp up its operations to fit a 21st-century marketplace, all the while staying true to its Peruvian-born, American-made bona fides. That meant making an array of savvy changes, including last year’s launch of a Peruvian-produced pima cotton collection, called Beginnings, that pays homage to Paty’s roots. The couple also created a new website for the company, updated the brand’s accounting system, revamped the look of its label, hired a

dozen new employees and recently announced the addition of four new reps across the U.S. At times it’s been a whirlwind, but as Derrick points out, it’s worth it for the opportunity to boost the brand back to its former prominence, when parents across the country could pick up a Paty, Inc. one-piece for their little ones. And fortunately, the couple has a rock solid mentor in Ruth, who still stops by the office to provide advice. “Without her guidance in the beginning, it would have been really tough, especially without her showing us the basic function and flow of the production process,” Derrick notes. “After 40 years, it’s become second nature to her. She had so much to share, and it was a joy to learn from her.” That sense of respect is mutual, Ruth adds, calling the couple “enthusiastic.” Listening to Derrick’s impressive list of plans for Paty, Inc., it’s easy to see why. And with a brand story so well suited to fit the needs of the current market, as parents increasingly seek authenticity in their purchases, it’s also easy to see why the company is perfectly poised to prosper as it heads into its 60th anniversary next year.

Trim size 7.75in wide x 5in high

What three items could you never live without? The things I truly value in life are my faith, my family and the ability to work hard to earn a living (in that order). At the end of the day, everything else is just fluff.

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How did your previous experience in the gift industry help you take over the reigns at Paty? Our previous firm was positioned similarly in the supply chain, and we had been going to the

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market centers for 10 years, working with many of the same customers we have now. So going from gift to apparel was an easy transition to make. Besides the operational similarities, we were also previously part of a team that took the firm from being in a reorganization status to profitability, eventually becoming a leader in the gift industry. We rode the roller coaster from the bottom to the top, so to speak. The experience we gained during that time was crucial, both in the early days at Paty and even today. The most important thing we took away from it is to believe in what we produce. We take a lot of pride in knowing that Paty and Beginnings pieces will very likely become part of the first memories that families make with their children, and that means a lot to us and to the people who work for us, too. They know they’re not making widgets to be cranked out, used and disposed of. They’re making pieces that become part of families’ lives. What were the biggest challenges in the beginning? There were two major challenges. The biggest was that Ruth kept an accurate but antiquated system of books. Her system dated back to the ‘70s, using general ledgers, pencil, paper and calculators. We immediately had to update it and automate it with an accounting system, so we could keep up with all the data from sales and customer contact information. The next big challenge was to make Paty more accessible to retailers by giving the company an online presence, which at that point it didn’t have. We launched the first website in December of 2010, and now it actually accounts for a pretty healthy percentage of sales. What’s the best piece of advice Ruth gave you? Ruth doesn’t like to veer too far off the designs that Paty is known for, so her biggest piece of advice was to keep things consistent and not make any drastic changes. A lot of our bestsellers are based on designs that she and her sister created back when the company first started. No matter how many other brands offer similar styles, she said, don’t try to recreate yourself. So we’re sticking with what works, per her advice. How do you decide what styles are working? Every three months we evaluate the performance of every single item, and we keep the pieces that are still in demand. We often know what pieces are going to sell; it’s the pieces Ruth told us would sell, the pieces she’s been carrying for years, our everyday styles that are available year-round. I think those are a staple in the infant apparel industry and very likely will not change in the future. We may tweak those pieces and offer some different colors, but the styles themselves are so popular and practical that we leave them alone. We have other seasonal pieces that we shake up a little bit, with different colors, materials and fabrics. Using a mix of feedback from our customers and market trends, we try to develop pieces that our customers will want. My wife does a lot of the design, and during the last couple of years she’s noticed an increased demand for new pieces. People love the staple items, but they also want to see what’s new, what else they can show their customers. So after listening to our customers and analyzing the trends, we try to provide a fresh spin on our own classic styles. So what makes Paty stand out from brands that offer a similar look? Besides the fact that we’re made in America, which counts for a lot, we’re also able to control the entire manufacturing process, which puts us right on top of quality and right on top of making any immediate changes. If we get feedback from a customer that a pattern needs to be adjusted on a certain piece, we don’t have to discount a whole batch of product. We can make a change on the fly and keep the quality at firstrun every time. We even make our fabric here on knitting machines, so we have control of the quality of the fabric, too.

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Making your own fabric is so rare these days! We consider ourselves pretty unique in that we actually create the fabric onsite. We buy the yarn, a cotton/polyester blend, out of a spinning mill in North Carolina. Then we put cones of yarn on the two knitting machines, and the machines run it through the process and out comes the fabric! That’s our signature Paty knit. From there we pass it on to the cutting table and it goes through a standard production process. That’s why our slogan for a while was, ‘We start with the yarn,’ because we really do. We purchase fabric like seersucker and other wovens for some of the pieces we make, but the bulk of our volume is made from fabric we produce.

All of Paty, Inc.’s designs are manufactured at its Houston headquarters.

That’s a fantastic brand story. People love to hear the story. There’s such a rich history with Paty that goes back generations. And our retailers love to tell the story. When shoppers come into their stores, the first thing they do when somebody asks about Paty is say it’s made in Texas and started in Peru—and I think that means a lot to their customers. The designs themselves are traditional, they’re solid and they’re tried and true. We’re not protected against other companies doing the same, so I think we help to differentiate ourselves on the quality, on the story and also by providing excellent customer service to our retailers. It must help that more consumers are looking for Made-in-theU.S.A. products. We have a lot of store owners who tell us we’re their No. 1 selling brand, and

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not just because we’re made in the U.S.A., but also because we’re able to manage our pricing. We’re able to compete with the importing companies with a price point that’s consistent with the rest of the market, whereas many U.S.-made products tend to be 20 to 30 percent higher. One of the biggest challenges of manufacturing here is balancing the fact that you want to source most of your components in the U.S., but you also want to have a competitive price point. That’s why we really work hard to make sure our components are priced well, so that we can pass those savings down to the customer and give them a Madein-the-U.S.A. product at a good price point, and not one or the other.

How difficult is it to keep those production costs down? It’s a big challenge. A couple years ago we lost one of our main components when our thread supplier went out of business. We had to source another supplier and make sure that the color, tensile strength and price was right, and that it worked well in our machines. That happens a few times a year, with pretty important components. We have to make sure we can replace them with equally usable components within the same price range, so we don’t have to push the price up just because our component price went up. It’s even becoming difficult to keep production prices down on imports, too, right? Our Beginnings brand is imported from Peru, and has nearly the same price point as Paty. We work hard to make sure it doesn’t get priced out of the mar-

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ket, but in a country like Peru, that’s recently been inundated with American demand, it’s not easy to do. By definition, price has to go up when demand goes up, and all those costs sometimes get passed on to us, which can be tricky to manage. Unless there is a drastic decrease in demand for imported goods, soon the consumer may be able to get American-made products at a better price than some imported pieces. How does the Beginnings line compete with other Peruvian brands on the market? When we launched the Beginnings collection in July of last year, we approached it with a business model that wouldn’t put us head to head with other Peruvian importers. We wanted to focus more on design and stay true to our own classic and original styles. In order to balance price and design, we research the industry to make sure we remain competitive, while focusing on innovation. With that said, having a line manufactured in the United States helps us receive immediate feedback from our customers, allowing us to learn their tastes and styles. That feedback goes into the design process for new pieces for Beginnings and often results in something completely new and something the market demands. Do the retailers who buy Paty also buy Beginnings, or is it a different customer? It’s the same retailer, but it’s a different niche. Most retailers will have room for Paty in their store, but they will also have room for a Peruvian pima cotton import with a little bit of a different look. So the Beginnings line isn’t really competing with Paty dollars, and a lot of the time it’s the same customer who purchases both lines. It’s a complementary line, with a comparable price point, and that’s how it was designed by intent. So how would you rate 2013 for Paty? Last year was excellent. We spent a lot of it planning for 2014, and we’re hoping to reap the fruits of all that planning this year. In January of this year, we announced the addition of four new reps across the country, so we can put Paty back into the markets where we were once prevalent, in the West Coast, Midwest, Northeast and Mid-Atlantic areas. That’s going to be a big push for us. We’re also re-working the Dallas area and how we manage and relate to customers. We feel that putting reps in place and managing the shows a little differently will allow us to position ourselves closer to the retailer and solicit feedback in a better way. We also made some investments in some really talented people in design, management and sales at the end of last year, so we’re really looking forward to jumping into 2014, and rolling out some tweaks for production to keep up with demand.

...Designs friends admire. Quality parents desire...

Do you think Paty’s traditional designs will resonate outside the South? Absolutely. Our traditional pieces have always sold well, and they still sell well in the West Coast and other territories, but we’re also tweaking the line a little bit, per what the demand is in a particular area. If we need to tweak a style a little bit, we’ll make that change, so it fits the needs and the taste of that market. And because we manufacture here, we have the flexibility to make that change instantly and have it in our reps’ hands within a couple of days. What’s been your favorite part of the job so far? My wife and I are just blown away by the potential that Paty has and the kindness of the customers we get to work with, and their willingness to share with us as we create new pieces. They really make it all worth it. Sales and profits can be through the roof, but if at the end of the day you don’t enjoy who you work with, both outside the office and internally, it’s all for naught. We love what we do, and we’re happy we can share it with people. •

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Check out our new boys line of button down bodysuits, shirts, pants, and more! www.frenchiemc.com • sales@frenchiemc.com • 347-948-3901 34 West 33rd Street, New York, NY 10001 • accentricsbaby@gmail.com / 214.748.0404 World Trade Center Showroom #8608 (Dallas) • Ragmanjerry@aol.com / 662-327-9685 / Room 13s341 (Atlanta)

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Ralph Lauren chambray shirt and camouflage jeans, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scarf and blanket.

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HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SABRINA ROWE FOR NEXT ARTISTS.

Rock â&#x20AC;&#x2122;n Lullaby hooded cape, Blu Pony Vintage plaid top over Barque button down shirt, denim skirt by Stella McCartney, tights by TicTacToe, Jefferies cable knit knee socks, moccasins by Minnetonka. Opposite page, from left: Ralph Lauren dress and fur trimmed vest; Appaman sweater over plaid button down shirt by Blu Pony Vintage, Andy & Evan pants.

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Imoga long cardigan with a detachable fur collar, Ralph Lauren long-sleeve shirt and patchwork sweater skirt, Mini A Ture cable knit tights.

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Mini A Ture hooded sweater, Ralph Lauren jeans, socks by Jefferies, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scarf. Opposite page, from left: Mini A Ture plaid shirt worn over Rachel Riley blouse; Appaman thermal shirt worn over Andy & Evan check button down shirt.

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Mayoral sweater, skirt by Ralph Lauren, infinity scarf by Blu Pony Vintage.

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Little Traveler buffalo plaid jacket, Autumn Cashmere sweater, jeans by Scotch & Soda, Aigle boots. Opposite page: Ralph Lauren denim jacket, Imoga sweater and skirt, tights by Jefferies, Western Chief boots. Hair and makeup by Sabrina Rowe for Next Artists.

FALL/WINTER ’14

EURO

Colossal scarves, a myriad of prints and puffer coats like you’ve never seen before burst onto the scene. By Angela Velasquez

EUROPEAN

TREND REPORT

POP

The fashion capitals of the world have stamped their influence on Fall ’14 childrenswear, presenting sophisticated and colorful collections that speak to a global audience. Bubble London charmed with classic chambray shirts, jersey blazers and quirky animal prints. Playtime Paris dazzled with star prints and glimmers of gold, while the designers at Pitti Immagine Bimbo in Florence continued to surprise with girl-meets-boy looks, swoon-worthy winter accessories and prints that rival the artwork in the city’s finest museums.

Simona Barbieri

Bringing it stateside, with details on the must-have European flair for the new season, are three New York City showroom presidents: Jared Levine of Jamari International, L’Officiel Enfant’s Alexia Panza and Stephanie Jenner of Le Passage Showroom.

ONE DIRECTION

Il Gufo

VELVET ROPE Velvet returns in dramatic fashion with styles spanning glam-rock frocks to tailored looks befitting an uptown gent. For boys, Levine says unexpected hues deliver a touch of fun to the stately look. Fendi offers dark green; Scotch & Soda has teal and aqua. On the girls’ end, the fall staple is the go-to fabrication for holiday shift dresses—a mod-inspired silo Panza sees on the upswing. Hemlines, collars and sleeves trimmed with delicate ruffles made of silk or lace add whimsy and movement to the heavy material. Velvet headbands, thin belts and smoking slippers decked out with quirky embroideries spanning skulls, hearts and polka dots add a dash of sheen to everyday looks.

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After seasons of bold color blocking, designers are turning to monochromatic looks to make an impact. A single color head-to-toe sounds simple enough, but the most interesting iterations blend saturated hues like navy, avocado, fuchsia and trafficstopping red with a medley of textures. For instance, Panza says Jessie and James London combines boys’ light blue chambray shirts with dark blue sweat pants and jackets. For girls, luminous monochromatic sequins, basics revamped with scalloped hemlines and lush tonal floral embellishments add an element of glamour.

Fun & Fun

Miss Blumarine

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PUFF PIECE A splash of color, a mix of textures and slimmer silhouettes help elevate the puffer coat from a utilitarian staple to a fashion musthave. “It’s everywhere, from opening price to the top designers,” Levine reports, noting, “Shapes are changing. It’s not just bombers anymore.” The traditionally bulky coat is modified for girls with nipped-in waists, belts, feather-light ruffles, flared hemlines, 3-D flower petals, delicate stitching and dramatic funnel collars. Fur trim and tweed panels add autumnal textural interest and warmth to the poly-filled or real down coats. On the boys’ sportier end, look for hi-tech, glossy fabrics in bright colors—Il Gufo has 12—as well as reversible options, varsity versions and slim puffer vests from the likes of Fun & Fun for transitional weather.

Fun & Fun

Quis Quis

Ki6 Miss Blumarine

Ki6

INFINITY & BEYOND A mainstay in women’s wardrobes, the infinity scarf is now heating up girls’ fashion with its simple yet cozy construction. Levine reports brands like Scotch & Soda and Fendi are taking down exact styles from their women’s collections but making them softer with kid-friendly materials, matching gloves and hats. And there is literally a style for every taste. The chameleon-like accoutrement brings a relaxed, downtown cool vibe to casual sweatshirt tunics and leggings, or looks effortlessly chic with a velvet frock. Best of all, these scarves won’t fall off on the way to school.

un & un

Ki6

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO

Fashion from Spain

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MIRACLE GROW Floral motifs continue to bloom, even in the throes of winter. Less delicate and dainty than spring petals, girls’ brands are getting crafty with cascading 3-D flowers made of chunky knit and felt fabrications—complementary accents to the season’s nubby knits and tweeds. On the dressier end, expect to see flowers made of grosgrain ribbon and beaded blooms paired with flower child crochet tops and dresses for a haute bohemian feel. The handson textural interest extends to other details, including 3-D animal ears, noses and tails in Stella McCartney’s baby range, and T-shirts by Il Gufo featuring dolls bedecked in tufts of tulle, Levine notes. 47

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HIDE & SEEK

Grant Garçon

With no end in sight, camouflage and leopard prints continue to hold down the fort in boys’ and girls’ fashion, respectively. Camouflage is cropping up across the board for boys age 3 to 16 and on bodies that span puffer coats to blazers à la Fun & Fun, Panza reports. Levine admits he anticipated camouflage to “die down this season” but was pleasantly surprised by the new twists labels like Versace are bringing to the military staple. Pixilated iterations, deconstructed camo and new colorways (think tonal blue and gray) add a new sophistication to the gritty print. Similarly, girls’ leopard print options are reconsidered in gray, navy and black. “We call it snow leopard,” Panza reports, noting that brands like Petit by Sophie Schnoor are sprinkling glitter on its leopard sweatshirts and jersey pieces for a sparkly effect.

Miss Grant

Fun & Fun

Celebrate Innocence

super soft clothing for infants and toddlers www.kickEEpants.nEt | (310) 492-5707

now offering clothing for

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big kids

(up to size 10)!

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Quis Quis

OH, SNAP! A photo might say a thousand words but the latest incarnation of digital print apparel for girls tells a multi-layered tale with dreamy combinations of floral, sky, animal, brocade patterns and more. The scrapbookinspired textiles deliver an ornate richness to fall fashion toeing the line between street and dress. Race car and sport-related digital prints from the likes of Hugo Boss and Scotch & Soda are speeding ahead for boys. “It’s a trend that is working well and that you’ll see for kids ages 3 months up to even 16 years,” Levine adds.

Miss Blumarine

Fun & Fun

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REGAL REBEL

Ki6

Miss Grant

Fun & Fun

Whether you call it punk or pluck, the intermingling of pretty (princess tulle and gold lamé) with rebellious (animal prints and hoodies) results in one edgy fashion statement for fall. Look for comfy jersey separates, long cardigans, message tees and ‘90s-inspired logos to capture the eye of tomboys and rebel ladies alike. Motorcycle jackets are trending up, too, Jenner reports, with pretty details like zipper tassels and floral lining to feminize the look. “And you’ll see a lot of black in collections from black tweed to black lurex,” she adds. Panza even sees cool kid details like black star prints in infant collections. “You can tell fashion is going in a different direction. There’s more rocker looks than ever before and its not as frilly and girly,” Panza describes. The street look is amped up with oversized baseball caps—often drenched in sequins or jewels— and gilded combat boots, studded motorcycle boots and sneaker-boot hybrids, which add a revolutionary vibe to long hemlines.

120 brands!

March 8-10 2014

illustration: Postics - photo: Yoshihiko Ogasawara

New York, USA

The international children's trade show

Picaflor Inc. E-mail contact@playtimenewyork.com • Tel +1 212 563 7301 • Fax +1 212 947 3471 playtimeNYxEarnshaw-halfpage.indd 1 er_03_14_european_trend_report_02.indd 50

pre-register now on www.playtimenewyork.com 06/02/14 14:41 2/21/14 1:08 PM

STYLE I NCUBATOR

OIL & WATER

Oil & Water offers exquisite rainwear for girls’ sizes 2 to 14. Every raincoat, jacket and poncho is fully lined for daily comfort, with deep pockets for hidden treasures and tailored hoods. The collection features soft, coated waterproof fabrics in a fabulous mix of colors, bringing a fresh new look to rainwear and keeping girls protected from the elements and covered in style. Wholesale prices start at $43. Call (203) 722-4963, e-mail amy@oilandwater.com, see us at ENK Children’s Club booth #7908 or visit www.oilandwater.com. Contact our reps: New York City: LC Collections Ltd lynbuksbaum28@gmail.com Los Angeles: Showroom a la Mode showroomalamode@gmail.com Dallas/Atlanta: The Klein Group Patsy@thekleingroup.com

PUPPY LUV GLAM

Looking for something different and adorable for your customers? Our logo is adorned with glitter and Swarovski crystals and embodies our inspiration: Every shelter pet deserves a spoiled and fabulous life! Our many styles for infants, girls and tweens are fun, easy to wear and CPSIA compliant. We donate a portion of every sale to the ASPCA and pet rescue shelters. Promotional materials provided. Celebrity loved and Mom approved! Immediates available and free shipping on initial order. Visit puppyluvglam.com, call (205) 746-6667, e-mail customercare@puppyluv glam.com or check us out at ENK Children’s Club in booth #8862.

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MAX & DORA

Max & Dora features classic style, contemporary fabrics and vintage trims to reflect innocence and playfulness. The collection pays homage to an ideal childhood and is inspired by those who came before us and made the present possible. Our team’s vision and memories of a wonderful adolescence are reflected in the clothing. We proudly make each piece in America with a focus on quality. Sizes range from 2T to 12 and wholesale prices start at $15. Visit www.maxanddora. com or see the collection at ENK Children’s Club booth #8819, the LA Kids Market, Suite A660 and at Children’s World in Atlanta. Contact: Tiffany Christoffers (561) 282-6578 (561) 762-6576 info@maxanddora.com

SARA SARA NEON

Graphics Galore! For little colorful souls, Sara Sara proudly presents its brand new sister line, Sara Sara NEON. The new line offers two-piece sets in casual wear strongly focusing on bright colors and fun graphics that can be appreciated by children and adults alike. Domestically made in the U.S.A., sizes run from 2T to 6X for little girls, and wholesale prices range from $19 to $27. Now that’s comfort you can afford! Visit www.sarasara.com for details.

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EarnshawsAD_proof_021214.pdf

2/12/2014

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BEHIND THE SEAMS

Hot Plate

Making its U.S. debut, Australian brand FreshBaked is set to rise to success. C

HE AUSTRALIAN OUTBACK is not exactly thought of as a fashion capital, but that could change soon, especially if Aaron Kassin has his way. Kassin, principal at Specialty Apparel Group LLC, is working on the U.S. launch of Australian kids’ brand FreshBaked and is determined to put the rugged territory on the fashion map. “Australia is in line with what Europe is doing in trends,” says Kassin, who first noticed FreshBaked for its on-trend styles, high quality manufacturing and affordable retail price points in the $25 to $65 range. “It’s a Replay/ Diesel-type look, but updated for kids,” he says of the brand, which launched in 2007 and quickly picked up a fan following. (It’s now carried in more than 220 stores down under.) For girls sizes 2 to 6, FreshBaked adds a little edge into a traditionally saccharine space, with gray furry vests, black chunky knit dresses, cherry blossom prints on tunics and a caped parka in pink satin with a black fur-trimmed hood—looks Kassin describes as “boldness and sweetness together.” As for the brand’s boys’ styles, in sizes 2 to 7, muscle cars, motocross bikes and exotic tigers feature prominently on tees and are ideally paired with the line’s embossed jeans or under a hooded jacket.

CMY

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Yet while the Aussie brand’s offerings include plenty of trendy options for American boys, Kassin knew one thing was missing: a line of basics. Boys, he knew from observing his own son, want to both look nice and be active, so he merged the two together to create a collection dubbed Essential Ingredients, offering comfort-friendly touches like slub cotton fabrics and heather textures. He’s especially optimistic about the collection’s cotton and spandex blend pant in black, navy, gray and khaki. “It’s perfect,” he says. “I’m picturing a kid wearing these everyday.” The spandex, he points out, offers a bit more stretch, making it easy for the clothes to transition from school to a quick prehomework basketball game. “There is a need in the boys’ market for an everyday pant with great quality, a really comfortable fit, which looks cool and that the kid would choose to wear,” he adds. The brand is also amping up its color options for boys and expanding its palette up to six hues, instead of the usual two, on many of its styles. For example, FreshBaked’s signature hoodie will now be available in shades of vibrant red, yellow and green in addition to black and gray. Kassin reports that the brand resonated strongly with retailers at the January edition of ENK Children’s Club and promises the looks will be a hit when they hit shelves in August: “Freshbaked is styled, designed and merchandised so nicely,” he says. “There’s no duplication in the line.” — Cambrey Noelle Thomas

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Deux Par Deux introduces its international story to a new generation, thanks to social media.

French Dressing

HEN CLAUDE DIWAN arrived in Montreal from Paris in the early ‘80s, it was just to attend business school. The Lebanon-born Diwan left behind her mother and sister, who were making fashion the family business by designing and selling handmade, smocked girls’ dresses in Liberty London print. Diwan had her own plans to launch a business career, but her family had some, too—and soon tapped her to help expand their dress line to Canada. In fact, Diwan even turned down a position at Canada’s top brokerage firm to take on the full-time

job of importing and distributing her family’s brand, as well as others. But by 1986, just as quickly as things took off, the Canadian dollar fell swiftly and import costs shot up by 40 percent, until they were eventually too expensive. With importing from France out of the picture, Diwan had to rethink the collection. So, using her business school smarts and inspiration from her mother and sister, she pivoted into the role of manufacturer—hiring a designer and whipping out a 30-piece collection, all produced in Canada, just in time for the birth of her first son, Zachary. Now, 28 years later, Deux Par Deux is still based in Montreal and run by mothers and grandmothers who outfit their own kids in the line. Diwan describes the trend-driven, French-inspired looks as high fashion for adults, but made for children. “Deux Par Deux kids are active, yet they have taste. They like beautiful things; they have a sense of fashion,” she describes. The brand’s signatures are its subtle prints, fine knits and vibrant colors, she adds. “The designs start with ‘la palette de couleur,’ and then it evolves into different styles.” Staying true to its brand identity, the forthcoming fall collection, available for boys and girls sizes 6 months to 12 years and at a wholesale price range of $10 to $40, combines vibrant color with 14 playful themes. For example, the “Chiens et Chat” collection includes houndstooth zip cardigans and graphic Mondrian-style dresses, adorned with a friendly dog and cat. There are even four themes just for boys, like “Kidster,” an irreverent collection of striped tees, suspenders and hooded puffer vests. For its next chapter, Diwan plans to amp up the brand’s social media efforts to target a new generation of moms. “We have come to realize that our customers are very active on the social media channels,” Diwan says. “And those channels allow us direct access and a rich and ongoing dialogue with our customers.” –C.N.T. 2 0 1 4 F E B R U A R Y • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 5 3

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2/21/14 12:40 PM

stargazing

What the A-list love at… Hello Alyss, www.hello-alyss.com

This online retailer carries a whimsical assortment of hard-to-find labels for a look that’s unfailingly cool. By Lyndsay McGregor

Naomi Watts bundles up her boys in Appaman puffy jackets before hitting the New York City streets, as do many of the site’s shoppers.

Orlando Bloom and his son, Flynn, are fans of Nununu’s cool and comfy tees. The brand is one of the e-tailer’s bestsellers.

Heidi Klum’s daughter Lou is rarely snapped without her Mini Melissa pink cat shoes, a popular pick for Hello Alyss customers.

or busy moms and dads, shopping curated collections online can be a lot like browsing in a real-life boutique—a specialty store where everything is handpicked to meet the needs of its target customer. So when New York City moms Alice Lo and Yessenia Tseng found themselves growing increasingly overwhelmed by too many choices both online and off, they took matters into their own hands and in October of 2013 launched Hello Alyss. As Lo puts it, “We were constantly scouring the market for collections that reflected our love of fashion in childrenswear, so we created a destination that brings together the best of children’s fashion from the U.S. and Europe in one place.” Famous faces and their offspring also play a part in the decision-making at Hello Alyss. “Celebrities live in the public eye so what they choose to be seen wearing says a lot about that brand and definitely makes us take notice when we are choosing which brands to add to our assortment,” Lo says. It’s an approach that works. When Harper Beckham was photographed wearing a Stella McCartney pink tulle dress, a similar style on the site sold out. Other celeb-approved bestsellers include Nununu, NellyStella, Mini Melissa and Bari Lynn. “Our customers love pieces that are stylish but also fun for their

kids to wear like tutu skirts and pompom headbands,” she says. “We want our brands to allow moms and dads to bring out the uniqueness of each child through fashion.” Since the site’s launch five months ago, Lo reports that 65 percent of its visits have resulted in sales and that 30 percent of those shoppers have returned for repeat purchases. “Our site traffic increased almost 50 percent in January compared to our average monthly visitors since our soft launch in 2013, and our average monthly revenue has already more than doubled,” she adds. “Our goal for 2014 is to continue securing premier brands that are hard to find and that excite our customers as much as they excite us.” •

5 6 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • M A R C H 2 0 1 4

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2/20/14 12:01 PM

CMY

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THE CHILDREN’S CLUB New York City, & March 9th–11th

Little Me

1385 Broadway Suite 1800, NY, NY 10018 Mark Zelen: 212-279-4150

Northeast

Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999

Southeast

Paul Daubney 404-577-6840

Caribbean, Latin America & South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745

West Coast

TeresaStephen & Krystal Crooymans 866-723-KIDS

Midwest

Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 800-935-0236

Texas/Southwest

Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446

International

Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008

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