Earnshaw's | March 2015

BON BÉBÉ AND ROSIE POPE TEAM UP

VOLUME 99 NUMBER 3

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E U R O P E ’ S FA L L FAS H I O N

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SW E E T W I L L I A M H E A D S W E ST

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AC C E S S O RY S U C C E S S

MARCH 201 5 $10.00

THAT

’70S STYLE

MARCH 2015

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Lyndsay McGregor Senior Editor Social Media Editor Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor Lauren Fusilier Assistant Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster

FEATURES

FASHION

20 Shine On From rings with bling to ties with style, pros reveal how to spruce up sales with the right accessories.

30 Let the Good Times Roll Fall fashion revisits j^[ ikf[h ĂŠ-&i$

22 California Dreamin’ Owner Bronagh Staley shares the story behind Sweet William’s new West Coast home.

26 Next Generation Looking for more millennial customers? Bon BĂŠbĂŠ Creative Director Jim McPherson and maternity fashion expert Rosie Pope believe their new layette line may be a perfect match.

40 Regal Scene Opulent details fit for royalty ruled the runways at shows like Playtime Paris and Pitti Immagine 8_cXe$ B[Whd ceh[ _d ekh <Wbb Ă&#x160;'+ ;khef[Wd Jh[dZ H[fehj$

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Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Note Talking Points Hot Properties Fresh Finds On Trend Behind the Seams The Pulse

* / %ĆŤbutton-down, .-1! vest, (,$ĆŤ 1.!*ĆŤ $%( .!*/3! .ĆŤ cardigan, 5+. (ĆŤ 1'10 2 '!ĆŤ pants, shoes courtesy of Astoria Bowl.

On cover:ĆŤ %)ÄĄ %ĆŤprinted blouse, %((%+*/ĆŤ+"ĆŤ +(+./ĆŤcardigan, %' )+5 culottes, (,$ĆŤ 1.!*ĆŤ $%( .!*/3! . socks, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own silk scarf. Photography by Franck Malthiery/Kate Ryan Inc.; styling

by Mindi Smith/Sarah Laird & Good Company; hair and makeup

by Lindsey Williams/Kate Ryan Inc. Shot on location at Van Nest Lanes, NYC.

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor D[m Oeha" DO '&&&) J[b0 ,*, (-.#'++& <Wn0 ,*, (-.#'++) advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office Joel Shupp (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ J[b0 **& .-'#')&& circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ J[b0 **& .-'#')&& Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

EARNSHAWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548.

Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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editor’s note THERE’S NOTHING THAT disappoints me more working in this industry than when I receive an email from a new brand letting me know it has decided to focus exclusively on direct-to-consumer sales.

As the editor in chief of a magazine that represents retailers, it’s a bummer to know our readers will have one less fantastic brand to stock on their shelves. As a shopper, I worry for the future of retail. Where will we go for all those last-minute gifts without a brick-and-mortar boutique nearby?

And—not to sound too hyperbolic here—I sometimes fear for the future of our communities and neighborhoods. I would like to think there are still a few places left, aside from the nearby brewpub, where everybody knows your name.

But mostly I worry for the company itself. My first question is: What’s your strategy? How do you plan to reach thousands of shoppers without a large network of retailers acting as your brand ambassadors? Is your e-commerce platform prepared to handle a heavy volume of shoppers on both web and mobile? Is your website flawlessly designed in a way that reflects your desired image? Do you have the marketing budget to reach a demographically and geographically diverse array of potential customers? Do you know the ins and outs of online advertising and search engine optimization? Are you prepared to give away thousands of dollars in merchandise on mom blogs and social media? Speaking of social media, do you have thousands of followers, or do you have a strategy for acquiring thousands of followers?

Call me biased, but I think there’s no better advocate for brands than their retail partners. After all, shopowners have a vested interest in the success of the merchandise in their stores. I’ve seen so many savvy retailers use everything from Instagram to in-store events to help promote their stores and the lines they carry. Eyana Carballo, the owner of Brooklyn, NY-based Stork, coordinates an annual runway show with

Missed Connections Do direct-to-consumer sales really offer growing companies the chance to reach thousands of customers?

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neighborhood kids modeling the products she stocks in her shop. It gets tons of coverage on social media and neighborhood blogs.

Chris Richardson, the owner of Kangaroo Pouch in Myrtle Beach, SC, hosts a movie night at a nearby theatre, where hundreds of her shoppers have the chance to meet, mingle and win some of the store’s gear.

Not to mention, most children’s boutiques now offer everything from breastfeeding to babywearing classes, giving their customers more than one reason to stop by and see what’s new. How can an online-only brand build that level of trust with its customers?

For this month’s On the Block, I had the pleasure of chatting with Bronagh Staley, the owner of Sweet William, about her new Los Angeles location (p. 22). Thanks to Staley’s unerring eye, Sweet William has become a bellweather of sorts for identifying hot new children’s labels. There’s a solid argument to be made that brands like Mini Rodini, Bobo Choses, Coral & Tusk and Hansa wouldn’t be where they are today if Staley hadn’t first stocked them in her trendsetting boutique. And I’m sure the same could be said for any number of companies on the market. We all know big box vendors often look to specialty stores to find the next big thing.

I’m not a complete Luddite. I know the future of retail will involve a combination of both online and in-person shopping. But I would caution children’s manufacturers not to get too caught up in today’s fascinating technology and remember the way most Americans still shop: at the last minute, with a trusted vendor they know by name or for pure tactile pleasure. And you can’t replicate that experience online.

AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

audrey.kingo@9threads.com

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baby + nursery + gifts + bath & body + home + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + adenandanais.com | 718.801.8432 + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + Š2015 Aden & Anais, Inc. All rights reserved.

Talking

Points

Collaboration Nation

Up-and-coming brands and small businesses are discovering that they, too, can benefit from the sharing economy.

IT’S TIME TO start caring about sharing. As many cash-strapped consumers increasingly embrace collaborative consumption—using Airbnb when traveling as an alternative to hotels, or car-sharing service Zipcar instead of a personal vehicle—retailers can also benefit by dipping into the shared economy. Macy’s and Foot Locker have teamed up with Silicon Valley startup Deliv, which crowdsources drivers to pick up online orders from local stores in select markets and deliver them that same day. Meanwhile, services marketplace Fiverr is an online community of individuals willing to do tasks like business card or logo Z[i_]d \eh Wi b_jjb[ Wi +$ 7dZ WYheii the pond, quirky kids’ clothing and toy store Three Potato Four, located on a high-density street in London, invites retailers of all kinds to rent space in one of its windows. <eh 7dX_d^ F^Wd" \ekdZ[h e\ '#o[Wh#ebZ eh]Wd_Y WdZ \W_h#jhWZ[ Y^_bdren’s clothing brand Aloetree Kids, the sharing economy makes good business sense. Last year, she moved into a shared office space with SoapBox Soaps after meeting the team behind the all-natural soap company at an entrepreneur event in Washington, DC. “They have a social mission, too, so I’ve made a lot of new contacts. And they learned a lot through their own mistakes and want to help keep others from making the same mistakes they did,” Phan explains, adding, “It’s been really great because it’s hard work to start a business and there’s a level of energy in our office that we can share together.”

Exposure to a common consumer is another advantage. Los Angelesbased kids’ accessories line Peppercorn Kids contributed to a Tea Collection photo shoot in exchange for credit in the brand’s catalog a few years ago. “It’s hard to measure if it helped sales but it definitely had an effect,” says Owner Vaida Onesto, noting that she also co-sponsored one of Tea’s retailer workshop events, which put her label in front of the bigger brand’s established following. Similarly, Little Me partnered with detergent company Dreft last year: All of the babies featured in Dreft’s 6 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C C 7 H 9 > ( & ' +

commercials and marketing materials wore Little Me clothing, while all of Little Me’s hangtags suggested washing with Dreft.

“Marketing exchanges are powerful and inexpensive, and can have an expansive reach,” agrees Jamara Ghalayini, owner of upscale kids’ boutique Pumpkinheads in Los Angeles.

She regularly teams up with neighboring children’s service providers such as gyms and Mommy and Me groups, posting about them on the Pumpkinheads blog in exchange for e-mail blasts about her store. There was even an Easter when she shared her space with A Real Treat, a local vegan candy vendor. “This allowed us to do a full-on Easter merchandising window and have fabulous addons for Easter packages,” she shares, adding that she’s thinking of partnering with a local toy store in the future.

But is the sharing economy a passing fad or something that’s here to stay? Onesto points out that there’s a lot of potential for complementing businesses to cross-promote each other and tap into a wider consumer base, but she warns that an element of trust must be present. “It could be a competitive threat, but I think if both parties act in good faith and respect and have a good understanding of the commitment then it’s a great idea,” she says. Ghalayini echoes this: “It can get sticky if someone feels slighted.” Not to mention, as Phan cautions, “Different businesses have different objectives and if you’re really small, like me, you need to be careful to maintain your company vision and structure and not be unduly influenced.”

If all goes well, sharing can be a win-win. “For example, a clothing store may obtain shoes from a nearby children’s shoe store to complete their window display. Then when customers come in and buy the outfit, they can see that the perfect shoes are available nearby, too,” Ghalayini suggests, noting that the shoe store could also refer their clients to the clothing store in return. “That could help both stores to reach more customers and become a more relevant destination.”ÆBodZiWo CY=h[]eh

WINTER

Photo: Laura Aldridge

2015

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HOT PROPERTIES

Bella Vita

Italian staple Brums makes its stateside debut.

ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤin Italy for over 50 years, Brums will bring its fashionforward threads to the American market in Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15, thanks to a partnership with the Specialty Apparel Group, which will be distributing the collection. The extensive line runs from newborn to size 14 for girls and size 16 for boys. Aaron Kassin,

Head Games

Disney teams up with TOMY to bring Inside Out to life. ĆŤ ĆŤ invites audiences to meet the little voices inside the mind of Inside Outâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Riley, who is guided by emotions Joy, Fear, Anger, Disgust and Sadness in the Headquarters of Rileyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mind. Toy maker TOMY will launch a collection of character-driven toys in May to coincide with the filmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s June 19th release. Willie Wilkov, chief marketing officer at TOMY, declares the Inside Out character license a good fit for the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historically innovative product offerings. â&#x20AC;&#x153;These 8 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C Â&#x161; C 7 H 9 > ( & ' +

a partner at Specialty Apparel Group, cites the breadth of the brand as one of its major strengths. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see a retailer in the country who couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find something to put in their stores,â&#x20AC;? he states.

The collection contains everything from basic tops and bottoms to hoodies and ski jackets, as well as outerwear accessories like hats, scarves and gloves. Fabrics run the gamut from soft terry and cotton for newborns to knits, wovens and poly-filled waterproof materials for older kids. For boys, basic navy, tan and gray receive a dose of vibrancy with pops of golden yellow, burgundy and orange in color-blocked, striped and camo patterns.

In the girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; line, basic solids in surprising shades of burgundy, cobalt blue and blood orange appear next to large-scale floral, animal and plaid prints. Fun graphics with forest animals, upbeat sayings and Disney characters from 101 Dalmatians, The Aristocats and The Rescuers are also featured across the lines. Overall, Kassin notes the collection is somewhat conservative for a European brandâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;what he describes as, â&#x20AC;&#x153;a more globally acceptable, finished lookâ&#x20AC;? that still maintains an on-trend edge.

Wholesale prices range from $7 to $10 for winter accessories, $8 to $36 for tops and sweaters, $10 to $36 for bottoms and $30 to $100 for coats. For more information email sales@ SAGnyc.com. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Lauren Fusilier

characters are so great. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re funny, they appeal to a wide variety of consumers who will connect to their vibrant personalities and toys are a great way to bring these characters home,â&#x20AC;? he states.

The collection will feature the five principal emotion characters in a variety of different sized figures and plush toys, as well as playsets that interact with the figures. The Emotion Console and Headquarters Playset, sold separately, cause the figures to light up when placed nearby and project static memory scenes from the movie when put â&#x20AC;&#x153;in controlâ&#x20AC;? of the console.

The plush offerings are for ages 3 and up, while the figures and playsets are for ages 4 and up.

Wholesale prices range from $2 to $30. For more information, contact Director of Sales Vickie Feldmann, (563) 875-5600. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;L.F.

Animal House

MAG Brands inks deal with Sesame Street to produce outerwear. ĆŤ ĆŤ to character-driven outerwear, MAG Brands knows a thing or two. Already manufacturing products for the likes of Frozen, My Little Pony and Spider-Man, the Sesame Street set is a logical addition to its portfolio. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The texture of the Sesame Street characters lend themselves naturally to soft, fuzzy and warm items,â&#x20AC;? declares Bianca Rushton, account executive at MAG Brands LLC. Launching in Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15, the collection includes snowsuits, prams and coats for boys and girls. Elmo is the starâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Rushton cites him as the number one character for both boys and girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;but Big Bird, Oscar the Grouch, Cookie Monster and Abby Caddabby also appear on select items. For boys, look for varsity, ski and reversible styles in red and black colorways. For girls, peplum and A-line silhouettes, as well as reversible syles, come in a range of red, soft and hot pinks, black and purple. Key fabrics include polar fleece, sherpa and micro fibers, enlivened with pops of fur, metallics and color blocking. Sizes range from newborn to toddler up to size 7 with wholesale prices from $7 to $20. Email info@magbrands.com to learn more. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;L.F.

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Gift Box Packaging Easy In-store Display

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Looking to freshen up your selection of baby girl products that appeal to millennial moms? Meet Lait-ette, the latest collection from 5ĆŤ %/ +00%. Available in sizes newborn to 24 months, each piece is designed to be versatile, soft and comfortable. Comprising one-pieces, footies, leggings, tops and jackets, as well as bibs, hats, swaddle blankets and soft toys, the collection is divided into groupings dubbed â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cute as a Button,â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Young at Artâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;Little Kingdom,â&#x20AC;? and comes in a soft palette of gray, cream and baby pink. Wholesale prices range from $4 to $28. Check out www.biscotti andkatemack.com.

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For kids who canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;tâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;or wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;tâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;tie their laces, Brooklyn, NY-based ++$% '%!/ lands on the scene in 2015 with a stretchy alternative that transforms any lace-up into a slip-on. Made from a highperformance elastomer developed by parent company Hickies, these â&#x20AC;&#x153;lacesâ&#x20AC;? thread through the eyelets of any shoe and snap securely in place for a hasslefree fit or stretch to slide the shoe on and off. Available in a rainbow of color options and wholesaling for $4.50 per pack of 10, Doohickies can be customized into all kinds of combinations and patterns. Go to www.doohickies.com.

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Italian childrenswear brand .#$!.%0 , which debuted exclusively at Nordstrom in Spring â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15, is ramping up its retail presence for fall. Designed by Margherita Maccapani Missoni Amos, granddaughter of the couple behind the Missoni fashion empire, the Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15 collection offers a contemporary take on a â&#x20AC;&#x2122;60s-inspired aesthetic. Dresses, tops, skirts, leggings, sweaters and outerwear in a mĂŠlange of tweedy knits, checks, washed cottons and quilted jerseys come in rich shades of cranberry, navy, charcoal and gold, while faux fur, neoprene and lurex add a touch of flair. A daisy motif (the lineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s namesake in Italian) weaves a common thread throughout, popping up in 3-D appliquĂŠs, embroidery and prints. Wholesaling from $8 to $40, sizes range from 6 to 24 months for babies and 2 to 10 years for girls. Visit www.margheritakids.com.

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San Francisco-based *#!(ĆŤ ! . is supplementing its core selection of super-soft baby basics with a bamboo-based collection of layette and swaddles set to launch in Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15. The 16-year-old company has always been committed to using organic fabrics when possible and bamboo is not only eco-friendly, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also hypoallergenic, thermoregulating and breathable, making it suitable for babies with extra-sensitive skin. Wholesaling from $16 to $22, gowns, footies, two-piece sets, blankets, bibs and beanies feature three new prints: blue pirate pups for boys, pink mermaids for girls and a gender-neutral option starring safari animals. Sizes range from 0-3 to 18-24 months. Go to www. angeldear.net.

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Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more to Chicago-based 2 (%* than party dresses. The label, which debuted to buyers at Januaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ENK Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Club, aims to raise social awareness by donating a portion of all proceeds to charities that fight for childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rights to education around the world.

Wholesaling from $34 to $47, the collection combines Eastern influences with a Western aesthetic to offer an array of A-line silhouettes embellished with embroidered lace, rhinestone trimmings and shimmering sequins. Visit www.evalinadresses. com.

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British brand $!!'5ĆŤ $+),!./ makes its stateside debut in Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15 with a line of combination dribble cloths/teethers.

Created by moms to help simplify teething necessities, the brand offers the snap-backed bib neckerchew and the safety blanket comfortchew that attaches to a car seat, stroller or baby. Both come with a chewable teether attached and are made using a soft cotton material featuring safari and vintage-inspired floral prints, as well as classic stripes. Intended for children ages 3 to 36 months, wholesale prices range from $9.50 to $14.75. Check out www.kalencom.com.

(+ (ĆŤ .'!0

If your customers covet the caliber of kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fashion that gets snapped for street style blogs from Paris to Tokyo, .%*ĆŤĹ?ĆŤ +.# * hopes its market debut will satisfy that thirst for international panache. The New York Citybased label launches in Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15 with a runway-inspired collection of threads for kids sizes 2 to 8 years. Made using 100 percent natural fibers and low impact dyes, styles span crisp button-downs and blazers for boys to chic shift dresses and blouses for girls. And the line is not without its whimsyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; pants and shirtsleeves can be cuffed to reveal contrast linings. Wholesale prices range from $18 to $55. Check out www.marinandmorgan.com.

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! ĆŤ ! .

Known for its whimsical array of hats, legwarmers, sweaters and pettiskirts, 1## (1#/ is growing its offering in Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15 with vintage-inspired bonnets for babies. Wholesaling for $7.50 each, the eight styles draw inspiration from heirloom patterns and come in solids (white, pink and blue), seersucker, lace and eyelet options. Suitable for everyday wear to protect little ones from sun and wind, sizes for the bonnets range from 0-3 months to 6-12 months for boys and up to 18-24 months for girls. Go to www.huggalugs.com.

You buy.

We give.

For every Rockin’ Baby clothing item you purchase, we will donate a new item of clothing from our hero range to a child in need. The more you buy – the more we can give.

Child to Child.

Visit us at ENK Booth #7500

We are the first company in the world to donate children’s clothing one to one.

As we launch our first collection be part of history in the making.

USA REPS: SOUTHEAST: heather@teacuptots.com | 770.670.1418 NY/MID ATLANTIC/ NEW ENGLAND: kjbarsh@optimum.net | 203.274.7340 MIDWEST: chicagogallery@yahoo.com | 312.751.6800

CANADA REPS: SOUTHWEST: run2well@aol.com | 214.747.8608 CARIBBEAN/LATIN AMERICA: oqassoc@gmail.com | 305.594.7118 WEST COAST/ NORTH WEST: jody@smallshopshowroom.com | 213.488.0090

ONTARIO: judiogilvie@bellnet.ca | 416.350.9690 WESTERN PROVINCES: greg@gingerbaby.ca | 604.441.7728 QUEBEC / MARITIME PROVINCES: jr3888@sympatico.ca | 514.341.4888

For det a ils of our distributors in the following countries ple a se cont a ct us: J a p a n, Hong Kong, Chin a, South Korea, Taiw an, Sing apore, South Afric a, It aly

www.rockinb aby.com

m ark@rockinb aby.com

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Swimwear label (+ 0%)%*%ĆŤmay have dipped a toe into playwear for Spring â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diving headfirst into the category for fall. And while its swim collections are typically print-heavy, the playwear selection is anything but. Inspired by the athleisure trend thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s taken over the adultsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; market, the line comprises comfy sweatpants, hoodies, skirts and dresses in a toned-down palette of marled purple, blue, berry and pink. Sweatshirts and long-sleeve tees, meanwhile, are livened up with with illustrations, metallic bows or pom-poms, designed to pair as perfectly with the collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s black and silver tutus as with the casual bottoms.

Wholesaling from $12 to $23, sizes range from 2T to 6X. Check out www. floatimini.com.

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From the makers of Mustard Pie comes 'ĆŤ Ä&#x2019;ĆŤ !,, ., a clothing line for girls sizes 2 to 16 years that wants to empower free-spirited children to feel good about themselves. The label, which launched in Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;14, fuses hippy, gypsy and boho-chic styles Ă la Free People to bow a Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15 collection chock full of prints, tie dyes, trims, fringe and denim, designed to be mixed, matched and layered for the ultimate expression of personality through style.

Designed in Chicago and made in India, the brand is also in talks to partner with several anti-bullying organizations through fundraisers and donations. Wholesale prices range from $14 to $44.

Visit www.jakandpeppar. com.

%/0!.Ä&#x152;ĆŤ %/0!. . ,ĆŤ ,

After a soft launch in Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;13, Mack & Co. is hoping its new brand #,%!ĆŤwill make a dent in the girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; outerwear market in Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15. Combining custommade fabrics and fashionforward designs with 3M Thinsulate insulation and down-filled lining, the collection includes such styles as a silver-gray topper accented by tulle and faux fur and a coral puffer with a ruffled skirt and faux fur collar. Wholesaling from $79 to $126, sizes range from 12 months to 14 years.

Visit www.magpiecoats. com.

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Kate Bowen didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want her two daughters to look back at baby pictures and cringe at how she had dressed them in matching outfits, but she did want them to stylishly (and easily) coordinate for special occasions. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the basis for !0%0ĆŤ !+*5, a line of simple designs for girls in sizes 1 to 8 years that launches this spring. The Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15 collection follows suit, with printed leggings, tunics, sweaters and skirts that can stand alone or mix and match with each other. Wholesaling from $14 to $28.50, everything is hand-cut and sewn in partnership with Mothers Helping Mothers, a nonprofit in Honduras, dedicated to elevating women out of poverty. Check out www. petitpeony.com.

WWW!UNITRENDSUSA!COM" "INFO@UNITRENDSUSA!COM

516.558.2505

OnTrend Penny Candy dress

Catimini pants

Gardner and the Gang dress

Rockinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Baby cardigan

The Dragon and the Rabbit dress

Barque cardigan

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Little Miss Zoe bracelet

Rachel Riley bow

Mellow Yellow Here comes the sun! Though it may not be outside, it’s shining bright on children’s fashions this fall.

Instead of the lemony hues found on Michael Kors and Delpozo’s Spring ’15 catwalks, childrenswear designers are deepening the shade, begetting a richer version that skews closer to jewel tones than pretty pastels—perfect for punching up back-toschool offerings. After all, marigold lends sweet styles a scholarly sophistication when mixed with dark browns and soft grays. Plus, it looks lush on knits like cardigans and scarves and makes a bold statement on accessories ranging from caps to carryalls. Rain or shine, these vibrant finds should keep little ones beaming bright. –Tara Anne Dalbow

The Bonnie Mob beanie

Zatchels satchel

Fashion from Spain

OnTrend Andy & Evan dress

Yclu’

Milk & Soda purse

Tartine et Chocolat dress

Need for Tweed

Coco Chanel first began utilizing her iconic tweed fabric in 1924, inspired not only by the traditional menswear of the time but also by a man, the Duke of Westminster, who often let her borrow his sportswear. Chanel realized that the comfortable, supple fabric could be both sophisticated and versatile and enlisted a Scottish factory to begin producing it for her fashion designs. Ninety years later, a Chanel tweed jacket is still the epitome of style and class. Need an example? Just look at the fall offerings from a range of kids’ brands: The nubby fabric is revived with shots of metallic thread, pops of leather and flashy feathers, proving that Chanel was right when she said, “Fashions fade, but style is eternal.” –T.A.D.

Biscotti dress

Elephantito dress

Mischka Aoki jacket

Bound by by Bound the Crown Crown the jacket jacket

La Dolly

by Le Petit Tom dress Kana skirt

Nandy & Molly shorts

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Looking to boost your bottom line? From bow-ties to bracelets, retail pros reveal how to tempt shoppers with irresistible accessories. ĆŤ ĆŤ

S ANY SAVVY shop owner knows, no boutique is complete without an array of knickknacks meant to entice customers into splurging just a bit more. Scarves? Check. Hats? Of course.

Jewelry? Definitely. But for kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; retailers, carrying a wide range of adorable accessories is absolutely essential. First, the perennially popular products are a great alternative to more expensive merchandise, since they allow kids to show off their personalities at a price parents are more willing to indulge. Second, accessories are low in cost and small in sizeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a boon for smaller boutiques. And the best part?

Kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; accessories sales grew by 12 percent last year and are projected to continue that climb in 2015, reports Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at the NPD Group, a leading market analysis authority.

Why is the future so bright for sunglasses and other accessories?

Without any predominant trends in apparelâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;after all, everything from â&#x20AC;&#x2122;90s grunge to â&#x20AC;&#x2122;60s mod is considered cool these daysâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Cohen says accessories are a key way for consumers to update their wardrobes. As Esther Klein, president of Twin Stars Jewelry for girls, puts it, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Accessories provide an additional pop of personality. They should be fun, easy to pick up and priced to be an impulse buying option.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Treat accessories as an integral part of your business, not just as an extra, because youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be surprised at how much they can bring in when done properly,â&#x20AC;? she continues. Miles Faust, CEO of Wee Ones, agrees. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The retailers I see that do the best with accessories are those that commit to a category, carry a wide selection, look for coordinating pieces and treat the buy as a destination, not an impulse add-on,â&#x20AC;? he advises. Are you ready to commit to carrying more and better bling in your boutique? Heed these tips to see the category soar.

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Jamie Rae Hats turban

MANAGE THE MIX With so many options on the market, picking the right products can be tricky. Experts suggest sticking to two rules of thumb: Note what your customers need and let your apparel offering guide your accessories selection.

As for the former, the right mix is largely determined by the weather.

Sunglasses will fare better in sunny California and Florida, while hats are a year-round must-have at Black Wagon boutique in Portland, OR, says Owner Sarah Shaoul. Brands like Neon Eaters and Krochet Kids Intl., as well as hats made with Pendleton fabric resonate well with customers, as they reflect the storeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fun and funky vibe while providing protection against the Pacific Northwestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wet weather. Aside from the weather, observe your community and adjust accordingly. At Bundle of Joy in Lafayette, LA, Co-Owner Becky Leger cites hair bows as the storeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bestselling accessory because most of her small shoppers wear school uniforms and accessories provide an outlet for self-expression.

But the best accessories are the ones that will complement the apparel on your shelves. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I look at the clothes Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve bought and go heavy with colors and patterns that match when picking my accessories,â&#x20AC;? Leger reveals. In fact, sister team Debbie Gans Morris and Sue Gans Curran of Pollywogs boutique in Needham, MA, wait until after theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ordered apparel to begin organizing their accessories buy. Then, they select a range of items that coordinate well with the seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothes. And if they canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find matching items, they utilize local craftspeople to create headbands and barrettes that complete the storeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outfits. As Curran points out, â&#x20AC;&#x153;They add a lot to the store, but youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got to be unafraid to spend a bit on them.â&#x20AC;?

TRACK TRENDS While itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more important to craft your selection based on the >50

[ ĆŤ ĆŤ ]

California Dreaminâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Brooklyn-born childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s store Sweet William finds a new home in Los Angelesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; proving that Owner Bronagh Staleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sense of style knows no boundaries. ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ

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IT MAKES SENSE that a neighborhood known for its fashion-forward inhabitants would be the birthplace of a trendsetting childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ijeh[$ 8kj m^[d 8hedW]^ IjWb[o \_hij ef[d[Z Im[[j M_bb_Wc _d (&&- _d Williamsburg, Brooklyn, she had no idea the boutique would become a bellwether for kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fashion. She just filled it with collections she liked, items that were tough to find in the more traditional-minded world of childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apparel. Soon enough, designers from companies 2 2 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C Â&#x161; C 7 H 9 > ( & ' +

as diverse as Carterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and Ikea were stopping by to soak up a bit of inspiration.

Today, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to imagine the stylish store without thinking of its well-known locale, and though Staley is committed to maintaining a brick-and-mortar presence in Williamsburg, the Sweet William brand has XhWdY^[Z \Wh X[oedZ _ji 8heeabod heeji$ ?d (&'&" i^[ opened a second location in Manhattanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Soho neighborhood, and just last year the store made its biggest move yet, to the Silver Lake area of Los Angeles.

So how did an East Coast retail staple fare with West Coast shoppers? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surpassing my expectations,â&#x20AC;? Staley shares. It was especially gratifying since the same products are stocked in all three stores, she adds. Too short on time to adjust her merchandise for the California climateâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the shop opened in November of last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;she was relieved to note that, aside from a few heavy jackets and fabrications, her Los Angeles customers snapped up the very same items as the storeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s New York devotees.

Then again, the success of the new Los Angeles location can probably be attributed in large part to the success of the Sweet William brand itself. The first to carry quirky European labels like Mini Rodini and Bobo Choses, as well as Brooklyn-based toys and dĂŠcor by Coral & Tusk, the shop quickly developed a reputation as a harbinger of market trendsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;due in large part to the discerning eye of Staley herself, who handles all the buying.

The Sweet William brand has become so well known, in fact, that Staley is launching a private childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ybej^_d] bWX[b" YWbb[Z <ehj M_bb_Wc" iec[j_c[ _d (&'+$ Working side by side with a designer to pick out the collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fabrics and silhouettes, she describes Fort William as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;natural evolution of the businessâ&#x20AC;? that will complement the lines in the store without competing with themâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a truly original brand, much like the labels on the storesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; shelves.

THE BEGINNING Staley was a fashion editor at 9eea_[ magazine when she left her job

www.rosalitasenoritas.com +34 983 403 003

the boys’ side of the business,” she to spend more time with her newsays. As for why the store has been born son. Instead, she decided to so successful in a tricky market segemploy her knowledge of kids’ fashment, she chalks it up to her love of ion and open a boutique filled with casual, comfortable looks that veer a few of her favorite brands. Little a bit off the traditional route. (One did she know she would spend the of her rules? “I never buy collared next four years working six days a shirts for boys.”) week, but all the hard work paid “Often, many mainstream stores dividends in the end, she acknowlaren’t very open-minded when it edges: “I really got to know my cuscomes to boys. I understand why: A tomer, which I continue to think is lot of women will come in and say, fundamental.” Her typical shop‘Oh my husband would never want pers are “people with their own my son to wear this,’ even when the vision”—in other words, parents item is very neutral and unisex,” who appreciate her relaxed and she continues. “Our boys’ looks eclectic approach to kids’ fashion. ((ƫ 3!!0ƫ %((% )ƫ(+ 0%+*/ƫ/$ .!ƫ0$!ƫ* 01. (ƫ(++'ƫ+"ƫ0$!ƫ %((% )/ 1.#ƫ/0+.!ċ probably appeal to our customer “I’m very intuitive about it,” she because our customer wouldn’t says of her overall approach to buywant to dress their boy in what’s offered in every store.” ing, “If I respond to something and I like it, I’ll get behind it. I never look at other people’s websites or other stores. I don’t look at blogs. I HEADING WEST just stick to my knitting and buy what I like.”

Although Staley, born and raised in Ireland, and her husband Peter, a Though she was a retail novice when she opened her first location, native New Yorker, loved their Brooklyn abode, they also felt the call of she made sure to protect herself from competitors, since the store conthe California coast. As she puts it, “It was always in our minds: What cept was based on offering one-of-a-kind merchandise. “I make sure we would it be like to move there and open a store?” So last summer, they set have exclusive distribution rights,” she shares. “I’ve always done that. off on a cross-country road trip with their son, now 7, and their 3-yearI honestly feel like it has served both the store and the vendors well.” old daughter. Serendipitously, Staley received a call around that time She also picked the perfect location. A Williamsburg resident since from a couple of retailers in Silver Lake, Los Angeles, to let her know '///" WdZ Wd Whj_ij Xo jhW_d_d]" i^[ mWi fWhj e\ j^[ \_hij mWl[ e\ h[i_that a local children’s store, Tomboy Kids, was closing. Would she be dents who helped transform the locale from an industrial outpost to interested in taking over the spot? an enclave for artists, musicians and other dapperly dressed members “It all happened very organically,” she recalls. “We went to see it, we of the creative class. But shortly before opening the store, she began couldn’t say no and we signed the lease in August. We drove back to noticing a new development on Williamsburg’s sidewalks: strollers.

New York City, put our house up for sale, packed everything up, moved Not to mention, she had firsthand knowledge that many of the area’s out there in September and opened in residents were starting to have kids, since November.”

Staley and her husband, Peter, had just Peter, an artist, designed and constructed become parents themselves. She suspected WHAT’S SELLING AT the Los Angeles store by hand, just as he the neighborhood’s new moms and dads did for both the Brooklyn and Manhattan would appreciate the same designs she locations. Natural wood paneling lines loved—and she was right. the walls at all of the stores, and shelves Today, Sweet William’s shelves are propped up by tree branches are adorned $ 0ƫ .!ƫ5+1.ƫ !/0/!((%*#ƫ%0!)/ƫ"+.ƫ#%.(/ĕƫ stocked with a wide range of brands, from with a plethora of Hansa’s realistic plush Atsuyo et Akiko T-shirts, Popupshop swimhidden gems like Soor Ploom to popular animals. And no Sweet William store would suits and anything by Nico Nico. They just picks by Winter Water Factory. In addition be complete without its signature diorado really well in general for girls. to a diverse mix of gifts, toys and apparel, mas filled with woodland creatures—a she also makes sure to offer a wide range feature that customers have replicated +.ƫ +5/ĕ Popupshop sweaters (They’re of price points. “I could sell a really spein their kids’ bedrooms. all organic and the quality is amazing.), Y_Wb YWi^c[h[ im[Wj[h \eh (.&" Xkj ? Wbie The new home base, however, does include Kidscase shorts and pants and anything by b_a[ je ^Wl[ W ). bed]#ib[[l[ J#i^_hj" eh one unique feature: a private office where Dagmar Daley. It’s very classic and cute.

Wd '. d[YabWY[ j^Wj YekbZ X[ fh[i[dj[Z Wi Staley can juggle the demands of overseea gift. I am very conscious about making ing three brick-and-mortar boutiques, a +.ƫ %!/ĕ Misha and Puff does well. And sure everything is covered,” she explains. busy website and the store’s new private Soor Plum—it’s really well made. Ketiketa Sweet William is unusual in another line.

And if the feedback she’s received and 1+ in the Family are both new but are way, as well: Half of the store’s merchanat the Silver Lake location is any indicadoing really well. dise is devoted to boys. “Luckily enough, tion, she may be even busier in the next we’ve always been able to sell boys’ clothes, few years.

“A lot of people are coming in +5/ƫ * ƫ#%"0/ĕ Yume bunnies, Atsuyo et which a lot of stores struggle with. That’s and saying, “‘Thank goodness you finally Akiko accessories, Hansa plush animals and one of the reasons I called the boutique opened here.

When are you opening on H-Luv mobiles and mushroom toys.

Sweet William—I wanted a boys’ name in j^[ m[ij i_Z[ e\ B75ÊÈ there because I never wanted to abandon

SWEET WILLIAM

2 4 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C C 7 H 9 > ( & ' +

Q& A

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FIRST COMES LOVE, then comes marriage, then comes a couture maternity line—if you’re pregnancy and parenting expert Rosie Pope. Best known for her role as the tough-talking maternity pro on the Bravo TV show Fh[]dWdj _d >[[bi, where she helped New York City momsto-be navigate the world of new motherhood, Pope got her ijWhj _d (&&." m^[d i^[ ef[d[Z W ijeh[ _d j^[ Y_joÊi Ie^e neighborhood catering to well-to-do moms, designing custom gowns and offering concierge services.

Although the show quickly became known for her clients’ outlandish requests (like asking for a couture gown to give birth in), Pope herself developed a reputation for 2 6 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C C 7 H 9 > ( & ' +

her down-to-earth, relatable demeanor, particularly after the show provided a realistic portrayal of her fertility struggles. Thanks to Pope’s growing popularity and unerring business acumen, her empire quickly expanded beyond custom gowns to include a ready-to-wear maternity line and three brick-and-mortar stores in Los Angeles and New York City. Meanwhile, Pope was putting her baby knowledge to the test, as a mother of four.

“As our brand was developing, I was also developing in the space, having babies myself, and becoming more confident through experience in helping people along their journeys,” Pope recalls. “From the very beginning, we

PHOTOGRAPH BY TIM JONES

BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

are chock full of useful details, like conalways wanted to follow parents along UP CLOSE WITH vertible gowns and roll-up footies—but their journey of parenthood. We never Pope is quick to credit McPherson, as wanted to stay in pregnancy, although I well. “Honestly, we both look at every think pregnancy is a very important place single silhouette, and make sure we love to start because that’s where parenting it. Jim has four kids too, so we always begins. So when we felt it was the right time, $ 0ƫ .!ƫ5+1ƫ(%/0!*%*#ƫ0+ƫ.%#$0ƫ*+3ĕ make sure it’s practical.” we’d always planned to move into baby.”

Rosie: Frozen, still. “Let It Go.” “That’s the funny thing about maternity When Fh[]dWdj _d >[[bi went off the air Jim: My kids are a little bit older than Rosie’s, design,” she continues. “I’ve been pregin 2012, Pope was able to keep growing so while I do know all the words to the Frozen nant a lot of times, but when you’re not her personal brand as a parenting guru, soundtrack, we’ve moved on to Meghan pregnant sometimes you forget what it in part because of the many fans who Trainor. I have a 3-year-old who has taught me feels like, and you start designing stuff rely on the advice she dishes out in her all the words to “All About that Bass,” and I that actually isn’t that relevant. But when classes and bestselling book, Cecco ?G. won’t deny I have thrown that on once or twice you’re a parent, you’re a parent every For Jim McPherson, creative director in the car when I’m alone. single day. So when someone brings in at Bon Bébé, that’s what made Pope a faux leather and makes a suggestion for perfect fit for the long-running babywear $ 0Ě/ƫ0$!ƫ !/0ƫ)+2%!ƫ5+1Ě2!ƫ/!!*ƫ.! !*0(5ĕ a bodysuit, it’s pretty easy for both of us manufacturer. “She’s the quintessential Rosie: Do Bubble Guppies count? My kids to say, ‘That’s probably not a good idea.’” know-it-all mom who can present her watch so many episodes, it’s basically the And the respect is clearly mutual. knowledge in a fun, non-pretentious, length of a movie.

Though the collection is manufactured accessible way that moms—regardless of Jim: I haven’t been to the movies in a while, utilizing Bon Bébé’s extensive network their economic status or cultural backbut I forced my 9-year-old son to watch of production facilities, McPherson says ground—can understand,” he explains.

Indiana Jones with me last weekend, and I designing the line was a team effort.

“Her message gives mothers and fathers really enjoyed that. He liked it. He was a little “We’re here to assist Rosie in whatever a lot more confidence in what they do, bit scared—the good kind of scared. way we can. We’re not taking the ball especially if they’re first-time parents.” and running with it,” he adds. “She’s Not to mention, McPherson loved the $ 0Ě/ƫ5+1.ƫ" 2+.%0!ƫ + '0 %(ĕƫ got wonderful ideas, she’s passionate baby line Pope had created in-house for Rosie: I’m a Prosecco person. about the product and she’s great to her Rosie Pope stores. Looking to branch Jim: I’m in the scotch phase of my manhood. work with.” out beyond Bon Bébé’s successful core I’ve got a friend who’s very much into the business, McPherson reached out to Pope Whiskies of the World, and he’s taken great Jim, why is the Rosie Pope brand a about creating a wide-ranging collection pleasure in educating me. good fit for Bon Bébé? that would appeal to today’s millennial Jim: We felt that it really resonated with parents. After striking a licensing deal last $ 0Ě/ƫ5+1.ƫ" 2+.%0!ƫ3 5ƫ0+ƫ/,!* ƫ ƫ".!!ƫ a corner of the market that we wanted year, Bon Bébé introduced two lines under "0!.*++*ĕ to attract more. She has the millennial the Rosie Pope brand in Spring ’15: The Rosie: I don’t think we have any free aftermom thing figured out. Her brand is hip, Collection and Rosie Pope Baby. Filled noons. it’s cool, and she’s a celebrity. While we’ve with newborn essentials like bodysuits, Jim: I would take a nap. I’ve heard about those. had success with our in-house label, we gowns, kimono sets and blankets, as well Rosie: I don’t mean to sound sappy, but my really wanted to take our business to as fashion pieces for girls in both bright favorite free afternoons are when I get to hang another level, and we thought the best and neutral patterns, The Collection is out with my kids without working and answerway to do that was to find someone who targeted toward specialty and higher-tier ing emails. Whenever I don’t have to take not only was out there in the public department stores, with a wholesale price my pajamas off and get everybody into the spotlight, but was also all about baby. range of $8 to $25. minivan and off to four different schools, it’s We’re a baby company, and we take But it’s the Rosie Pope Baby collection, amazing. great pride in the quality and safety of a layette line filled with an eclectic range our products, as well as our expertise in of contemporary prints, that Pope and making clothes for newborn babies. It’s McPherson really believe will resonate with a very specialized niche.

And in Rosie, we found someone who was all today’s parents, especially at an affordable wholesale price point of $5 about baby, and very passionate about what she was doing. There are to $15. (For Fall ’15, the line will expand to offer playwear and hoodies.) plenty of celebrities out there that have baby lines, like the Kardashians “What I found is there’s a lot of great stuff out there, but it all sort of and Jessica Simpson, and they’ve been tremendously successful, and sits in a very strict mold of what prints and colors are accessible. Or, that’s great.

But motherhood isn’t the core of their beings. And I’ve met it costs a million dollars. Something may be really cool, but I’m not Rosie’s husband, and I know her family and her kids, and I think she going to pay $85 for it,” says the practical-minded Pope. “When you see truly believes in what she does, and it comes through when she talks your kids vomiting on themselves and then throwing slurpees at their to people about it, and it comes through in the product. brothers and sisters, all you can think is, ‘That cost so much money!’”

For Pope, it’s all about preserving what she’s been doing for the past Conversely, Rosie, what are the benefits of working with a >52 seven years: solving problems for busy parents. That’s also why the lines

JIM AND ROSIE

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Booth C03

Booth F04

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss these up & coming Spanish brands Booth C13

Booth F11

February 28 March 2, 2015

635-639 West 46th St. New York

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FALL/WINTER â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15 EUROPEAN TREND REPORT

REGAL SCENE

ĆŤ ĆŤ for a little je ne sais quoi to spice up their fall selection know where to go every winter: the fashion capitals of Europe, where mini models strut down runways in the continentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coolest new collections at an array of trĂŠs-chic trade shows.

From Pitti Immagine Bimbo in Milan and Playtime in Paris to Bubble in London and FIMI in Valencia, Spain,

kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; brands touted their latest collections to retailers and trend forecasters alike, all searching for original prints, innovative fabrics and stylish silhouettes. We asked experts from the across the industry to share Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest trends for tots for Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15â&#x20AC;&#x201D;and we wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be surprised to see a few of them hop the pond in a season or two. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Tara Anne Dalbow

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HIGH STREET Last seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s urban-inspired sportswear receives an elevated update for fall. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about mixing the formal and the sporty,â&#x20AC;? explains Pitti Immagine Marketing Director Agostino Poletto. â&#x20AC;&#x153;For boys that means stealing items from dadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closet, such as a Madras blazer, and wearing it with a printed T-shirt.â&#x20AC;? Gleaning inspiration from street culture and college campuses, the focus is on layering comfortable and high-tech fabrics for boys, while girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; styles go glam with embellished sweatshirts and dressed-up neoprene skater skirts and dresses. Also in the mix are high-shine leather track jackets and fashion-forward sneakers for both genders.

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LIGHTEN UP Lovely in lavender or pretty in pink: Once strictly a springtime staple, candy-colored pastels paint winter collections in a soft, soothing palette for Fall â&#x20AC;&#x2122;15.

Angela Martin, public relations coordinator for Thread Showroom and independent consultant, reports, â&#x20AC;&#x153;We are switching gears. In spring there were a lot of darker colors and now for winter we are seeing light colorsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;lilacs, pinks, mint and winter whites.â&#x20AC;? Following womenswear trends toward seasonless dressing, no material or silhouette was safe from the desaturation, from fur vests to Fair Isle sweaters. /$%+*ĆŤ".+)ĆŤ , %*

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In direct competition with the minimalist knit trend are bold, all-over prints. Brooding florals bloom from black-asnight backgrounds while stars shoot across inky galaxy patterns. “There was a huge emphasis on bold prints,” shares Martin, who points toward reinvented florals and abstract designs in ’70s-inspired colorways as highlights. Ranging from digitalized photoreal graphics to hand drawn doodles, prints pack a punch against the winter blues, no matter the silhouette.

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WILD SIDE “The season wouldn’t be complete without the animalier trend,” notes Poletto, who reports seeing spots on jackets, linings and dresses alike. A versatile womenswear staple that can read both classic and sophisticated as well as spunky and fun, animal-inspired patterns are reimagined for the younger set in graphic prints, furry coats and with feline features embossed on leather jackets and tops for both boys and girls—all sure to leave little ones feeling ferocious this fall.

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Thanks to the democracy afforded by the Internet, the once exclusive world of couture is now familiar to all—and today’s crop of childrenswear designers are putting the newly accessible inspiration to use. Jewel-like creations floated down fall runways in a flurry of organza, tulle, taffeta and lurex. “It’s all about opulence,” says Julie Malait, who curates the trends at Playtime Paris.

Couture-level details ranging from caviar beading to extravagant embroideries were emblazoned on everything from special occasion dresses to sweatshirts.

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DARK MAGIC

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Many of the season’s most sought-after collections whisk little ones off to faraway lands with pieces inspired by fairytales. Under the same spell as the duo responsible for Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall ’14 show, which featured an array of woodland characters as well as a cameo from Little Red Riding Hood, childrenswear designers spun a story using enchanting embellishments, naive appliqués and rich brocades. “It’s a dark fairytale, full of moody florals and storybook characters,” says Nicole Yee, childrenswear editor at Style Snoop.

One of last fall’s biggest trends in womenswear, woolens return to the runway, this time on tykes. Inspired by The Row, Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs, childrenswear designers are embracing warm and cozy from soft knit dresses to raw-edge sweaters and oversized infinity scarfs.

“Look for full-fashioned knits as being important for fall,” notes Poletto, who says cashmere, wool and fleece will star.

Yee agrees, “There is an appreciation for cozy minimalism. Most items are gender neutral, but have soft, comforting fabrics.”

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European designers are going for the gold in Fall ’15. From sequins to leather, no material or embellishment was safe from Midas’s lustrous touch. Experts agree that reflective finishes will shine bright on puffer coats, sweatshirts and formal dresses—lending wardrobe staples an ounce of opulence.

Poletto predicts sequinembellished sweatshirts and metallic jacquard holiday dresses will be key for the season. Look for simple, streamlined silhouettes to keep the precious metal from outshining smaller frames.

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A Charming Collection of

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Los Angeles-based Akid hits the ground running with fashion-forward footwear for styleconscious kids.

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Elevated basics are the benchmark for California girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; brand, MaeLi Rose.

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overall store aesthetic, it never hurts to know what’s hot each season. Takedowns from adult fashion will continue to pop up in the children’s market, says Jamie Wells, founder of Jamie Rae Hats. For Fall ’15, that means sleek and sophisticated neutrals, color blocking and abstract-inspired prints will dominate the market, she predicts. Alexis Eyler, owner of Lollie boutique in Evanston, IL, agrees that takedowns—such as infinity scarves in colors like aubergine and wine—will continue to play a big role in kids’ accessories.

Another trend that’s still going big? The explosive growth in the boys’ category, from bow ties to beanies. While it may not have been a big segment just a few years ago, Christine Ryan, owner of Stinky McGee ties, reports “fantastic” sales for the brand in 2014 and projects even more growth in 2015. “There are more boys’ lines coming out, as well as more parents opening up to it. It’ll become more normalized, which will lead to more sales,” she predicts. Geri Damone, co-owner of Cheeky Chic boutique in Scottsdale, AZ, carries as many accessories for boys as for girls, offering edgy options like skull-print bow

STAY WELL-STOCKED Accessories sales tend to mirror apparel sales, reports Faust at Wee Ones, so make sure your store is prepared to handle a surge in purchases during key seasons. “It’s actually pretty evenly split with peaks at back-to-school, holiday and Easter,” he says. Eyler agrees, noting that the sales peaks tend to follow a predictable pattern at Lollie. “In the fall and winter we sell hats, scarves and mittens,” she says. “And then in spring, we sell little treat items like nail polish or watches for Valentine’s Day and Easter gifts.” The key is preparation, in Faust’s opinion—foreseeing the seasonal surges and preparing for them when buying. “Boost inventory at those peak times,” he urges.

Retailers and manufacturers agree that holidays are peak times for accessories sales.

Traditional holiday outfits are indeed incomplete without stockings and hair clips, or bow ties and suspenders. And holiday accessories

can make for an affordable, adorable gift from a favorite aunt or grandpa. At Bundle of Joy, for example, Leger says bow sales are huge at Christmas with customers who don’t otherwise shop the boutique. Gift purchases drive jewelry sales at this time of year as well, reports Alexander Singer, owner of Chanteur jewelry for girls, who says that the brand’s sales are about five times higher during the holidays.

MASTER MARGINS Accessories carry a lot of potential when it comes to boosting the bottom line, since the relatively low cost of the items often yield a more advantageous margin than clothing.

(Conventional retail wisdom holds that apparel should be sold for twice its wholesale price, for a 50 percent margin.) Jewelry especially tends to have a beneficial margin. For example, Klein of Twin Stars suggests a three-time mark-up on the brand’s array of bracelets, earrings, necklaces and more. But Shaoul advocates using caution when setting a price point on accessories. “They are dependent on what the market will bear. People tend to be willing to pay more for handmade items, but they cost

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more for me so it evens out.” That said, she reports an overall margin of 60 percent for her store’s accessories, with sunglasses coming in at a whopping 73 percent.

In fact, many manufacturers who sell items on their own websites will require retailers to mark up to the brand’s online pricing or higher.

For Stinky McGee, that means a minimum margin of 50 percent. At Pollywogs, the rule for margins is 50 percent plus $2 for accessories, Curran says. She and Morris have worked on building the category, she notes, adding that sales went up by 15 percent last year. Aside from more advantageous mark-ups, Curran points to one other big factor for why accessories have been a major boon for her business: Fewer mark-downs. As Faust at Wee Ones notes, accessories like hair bows tend to be timeless items that carry the benefits of being marked down less often and at lower rates.

PUT MORE ON THE FLOOR While it may be difficult to decide just how much inventory is enough, the general rule that Eyler observes at Lollie is a good one to note: “Our space isn’t huge—only 700 square feet—but accessories are small so we pack in as much as we can.” Of course, it’s still important to keep the sales floor neat and avoid too much clutter, but adding as many accessories as possible tends to be the game plan for retailers who excel in the category.

Damone reports that accessories make up about one quarter of the inventory in Cheeky Chic because, simply, she has the space for it. Manufacturers like Chanteur and Jamie Rae Hats encourage retailers to consider dedicating 20 to 25 percent of their selection to accessories. “They are a predictable sale with a good selection and they offer good margins for a small investment,” sums up Wells. er_07_14_shop_class_01.indd 70

MERCHANDISE WISELY While the go-to merchandising spot for accessories is near the register, it’s not a hard-and-fast rule for successful accessory sales. Shaoul gets creative at Black Wagon, putting together niche boxes based on topical themes, like nautical, horses and music, to give customers a unique view of the shop’s products. Leger clips bows onto hangers to create full coordinating outfits at Bundle of Joy, a practice that Miles Faust highly recommends for displaying Wee Ones products. Eyler observes her customers’ walking patterns at Lollie and places jars and buckets filled with small accessories in key spots. Damone goes the more traditional route of using mannequins to display full outfits at Cheeky Chic, but she also has a chair near the register where she lays out a featured outfit, complete with accessories, each day. The key, they all note, is to keep items visible so that customers don’t miss them.

Sarah Niemic, a research associate at Envirosell, a New York Citybased market research firm, reports that rows of clear plastic bins housing accessories near the register is the most successful strategy for tempting shoppers to pick up add-on items. Many brands offer branded trees and displays, which can be helpful if space is limited; however, Niemic also suggests opting for horizontal bars over the traditional tree stand, which tends to get messy and makes it hard for customers to pull out items that aren’t up front.

And don’t be afraid to get creative when showing off your accessories selection. Morris at Pollywogs found a unique new headband holder on Etsy—three-tiered hanging rolls covered in bright fabrics—that has become a favorite display at the boutique. After all, if you take a \[m \Wi^_ed h_iai" oekh Ykijec[hi fheXWXbo m_bb" jee$

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Q& A

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licensee like Bon Bébé?

Rosie: It’s all about relationships.

You’ve got to have amazing product and great ideas, but you also have to be able to get somebody to come see you and listen to what you want to tell them and show them. That’s why I think that working with a company that has a great history of quality and success is so important. There are so many factors that go into a successful line aside from quality clothes, from sourcing to sales to a network of production facilities.

There’s so much that goes into it, and equally so much that can go wrong. Partnering with a company like Bon Bébé, which knows how to make it go right, is essential. You can make the best baby clothes in the world, but if the infrastructure isn’t sufficient, it just doesn’t work.

There are so many factors that go into a successful line aside from quality clothes, from sourcing to sales to a network of production facilities.”

It sounds like a great partnership.

Rosie: Jim is awesome to work with. We share ideas as a real team, and I think that’s different than a lot of the relationships that are typical of the licesnsee/licensor state. One thing that was really important to me was not only to be a part of selling the line, but also to translate some of the education and expertise in a relatable way, as we do in our classrooms and our studios. But that’s challenging to do through clothing, especially when you enter the world of multi-channel retail. So we came up with the idea to do it through hangtags. In my book Cecco ?G, I provide snippets of information, which I call Mommy IQ points. They’re really sharable on social media. So we took a whole range of Mommy IQs and put them on the hangtags, so people in the store really get a feel for what we’re all about.

Through the fashion, we’re also supporting and helping people.

It was really great to be able to work with Jim and his team to integrate that throughout the product. I think that’s another reason why we’re doing well in the space. As we all know, there are plenty of baby clothes and baby brands, so how do you stand out on the floor and really add value?

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Helping parents seems to be a core part of the Rosie Pope brand. Is that why the baby collection is filled with functional details like roll-up footies and convertible gowns?

Rosie: Yes. Absolutely. But I’m of the belief you’re not supposed to even notice them. I don’t want to try and pretend like it’s going to do anything crazy. What you want to do is to make people’s lives easier, so they become loyal to the brand. So there are little things that parents might not even notice that make a big difference to them and their baby. That’s why we created Rosie Pope Baby and 5 2 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C C 7 H 9 > ( & ' +

The Collection. They both solve different problems and speak to different things.

Tell me about the two collections. How are they different?

Rosie: The Collection has higher price points. The best way to describe it is as an emotional piece you want to bring your baby home in from the hospital. It’s more event-driven—it’s for that special moment or occasion, or for all that wonderful gifting that goes on when you have a baby. It’s a little bit more traditional, but it’s got the contemporary spin that’s really important to me personally and to our millennial audience.

The color palette is especially contemporary. I love the gender-neutral hues and the muted blues and pinks.

Rosie: I love pink and blue. I knew when I had my baby girl I wanted her to wear some pink. But it was important to me to find neutrals, blues and pinks that were different from what’s already out there.

And from a personal standpoint, while a newborn baby can be stressful, it can also be a very beautiful and calm time, and I was thinking about that when we were designing the clothes and choosing the colors—about what would feel right at those moments.

While I love highlighter hues, I wouldn’t want to put my newborn in a neon yellow jumpsuit. You want that soft moment no matter your sense of fashion, so I think it’s important to offer that here.

And what about Rosie Pope Baby? What was the inspiration for that line?

Rosie: I have four kids, and The I know that kids go through Collection clothes like crazy. They get dirty and nasty and quite frankly, you don’t want to spend a lot of money on clothes but you want your kids to look cute. We really wanted to do something different with Rosie Pope Baby, so we came up with some print concepts that are very contemporary. I think it’s pretty edgy. We’ve created a series of very cool, very original prints that can be mixed and matched, no matter what piece you buy from which prints series. It’s striking, it’s fun, it’s happy and it’s got a really great price point.

Will the two lines target different retailers?

Jim: Yes, they are geared to different market tiers. The Collection is a higher price-point line, so the potential sale is with higher-tier

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“The feedback we’ve received is there’s nothing at this price point this contemporary that speaks to millennial moms this way.”

department stores and specialty stores and boutiques, as well as Rosie’s own shop. However, we initially had the idea that the lines would be completely stratified, but in practice, people want some of all of it. To give you a better idea: Macy’s carries Rosie Pope Baby, Bloomingdale’s carries The Collection, but Nordstrom and Lord & Taylor carry both lines.

Rosie: I think that speaks to two things. First of all, the millennial parent is used to buying high/low.

They see different value in different things. We found that while they may want a really great price on some very cool, contemporary leggings, for example, they are willing to stretch for a really nice knitted sweater. I think that’s why the buyers at these different tiers really like co-mingling the collections together in a way we didn’t expect but we’re really pleased about. Second, we’ve gotten such an awesome response to the prints in Rosie Pope Baby.

Why do you think the prints in the Rosie Pope Baby collection are resonating with retailers?

Rosie: The feedback we’ve received is there’s nothing at this price point this contemporary that speaks to millennial moms this way.

All of the prints are inspired by a story or a theme. We’ve got everything from sunglasses and lightning bolts to astronomy and sign language—a lot of things you might not normally expect to see on layette. We’ve started naming the series and we’ll be reproducing them because it’s something we want to be known for.

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The print stories are so creative! What’s the inspiration?

Jim: Each print collection tells its own story. For me and the other artists on my team, we often think back to the joy of being a little a_Z$ Ed[ e\ j^[ ]hekfi \eh <Wbb Ê'+ \[Wjkh[i Wd ekjZeeh [nfbeh[h theme, with prints that speak to camping, wilderness animals and constellations in the sky. We obviously translate those things down to where they will work for baby, but in my mind, it’s all about imagination, storytelling and fun.

Rosie: I think for a long time baby clothing was stuck in a world where only a few icons were accessible and there were only a few colors for boys and a few colors for girls. And I just don’t think that’s where today’s parent is, and definitely not tomorrow’s parent. I have four kids now, and not one of them has come to me and asked me to tell them stories about monkeys and trucks. They’re not drawing trains all the time. They’re talking about magical worlds, the stars and superheroes.

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That’s so true! And it seems to be the case for millennial 5 4 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C C 7 H 9 > ( & ' +

parents, too, who are more interested in things like science and technology.

Rosie: Definitely. Food is another one. I think what we’re dealing with now is a generation of parents who have considered themselves their own stylists and their own designers for many years, in a way that previous generations weren’t. Their parents were choosing and buying their clothes for them. I’m at the edge of the millennial generation, so from me down, we were styling ourselves, picking out our own clothes and having a much earlier sense of fashion. So as we become parents, we want the same for our babies. We want to be able to style these outfits and make them special, but we also want them to be practical and affordable.

What’s your favorite part of your job?

Jim: The people I work with, from Rosie and her team, to the people here at Bon Bébé. We work closely together to exchange ideas and meet challenges. Our core group here at Bon Bébé has been together for quite some time now, so it feels like family. I like to be at a place where teamwork is put ahead of everything else.

Rosie: I’m passionate about parenting and being a good parent myself, so I love that what I’m most passionate about is also what I do in a way in the workplace. I’m constantly learning, so I constantly get better myself. I feel very fortunate that my passion in b_\[ _i m^Wj ? Ze \eh co YWh[[h" Wi m[bb$

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