Earnshaw's | March 2016

P R E S I D E N T J O H N P I E R C E O N B E A R PAW ’ S N E W AT TA C K

VOLUME 100 NUMBER 3

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R U N W AY R E P O R T : E U R O P E

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DIALING UP MOBILE SALES

MARCH 201 6 $10.00

J’adore Fall Fashion

sales@ulcapparel.com 212.299.4175

LEAPS & BOUNDS

M A R C H 2 016 FEATURES 12 Stay Mobile As more shoppers make fkhY^Wi[i ed j^[ ]e" ZedÊj get left behind.

18 Smooth Sailing 7\j[h W heYao (&'+" 8[WhfWm President John Pierce predicts calmer waters this year—thanks in part to the brand’s growing kids’ collection.

32 Adventure Time Fashion experts reveal the continent’s coolest trends in ekh WddkWb <Wbb%M_dj[h (&', European Runway Report.

Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Lauren Olsen Associate Editor Emily Beckman Associate Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager

FASHION

Mike Hoff Webmaster

22 Model Behavior

Allison Kastner Operations Manager

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Editor’s Note Talking Points Hot Properties Fresh Finds On Trend Shop Talk

Nice Things Mini pants and coat, Tocotó Vintage tulle apron, Andy & Evan hat, Bensimon socks and sneakers.

On cover: Imps & Elfs blouse worn under Kidscase cardigan, Little Lids beret; Design History sweater, Suoak collar.

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Noelle Heffernan Publisher

Photography by Igor Borisov/Serlin Associates; styling by Mariah Walker/ Art Department NY; assistant styling

by Dani Morales; hair and makeup by Lindsey Williams/Kate Ryan, Inc.

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices ), 9eef[h IgkWh[" 4th floor D[m Oeha" DO '&&&) J[b0 ,*, (-.#'++& <Wn0 ,*, (-.#'++) advertising@9threads.com [Z_jeh_Wbh[gk[iji6 9threads.com Circulation Office (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ J[b0 **& .-'#')&& circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ J[b0 **& .-'#')&& Xen Zapis" 9^W_hcWd Lee Zapis" Fh[i_Z[dj Rich Bongorno" 9<E Debbie Grim" 9edjhebb[h

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548.

Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing

0-18 years

MAYORAL USA INC. Miami FL T 305.779.4305 mayoral.usa@mayoral.com

AT L A N T A C H I C A G O

VISIT US PLAYGROUND · LAS VEGAS · LVCC / MAGIC · FEBRUARY 16-18 | CHILDRENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CLUB · NYC · JAVITS CTR · MARCH 13-15

editor’s note children’s world Apparel | Accessories | Shoes | Gifts Décor | Maternity | Juvenile Products

See You in 2016 Upcoming Markets April Children’s World at Atlanta Apparel April 7–11, 2016 June Children’s World at Atlanta Apparel June 2–5, 2016 The Atlanta International Gift & Home Furnishings Market® July 12–19, 2016 Select Showrooms Open Year Round Visit AmericaMart.com for a full list of Market dates.

ONE OF THE many wars we moms allegedly wage takes place on the battlefield of children’s fashion. Every month or so, some tot snapped in a sophisticated ensemble sets off a heated online debate about whether biker jackets or sheer tops are appropriate for kids. (Often, that tot is Kim Kardashian’s daughter, North West.)

I’m calling for a cease fire. Not only because these neverending arguments are extremely tedious, but also because they are largely unnecessary: There are so many fantastic children’s brands making looks that please both parents and kids.

I’m often asked: What’s the most exciting development in children’s fashion? And my answer is this: that so many new brands are creating collections that expertly balance worldly with whimsical. Today’s stylish looks are sweet without being saccharine. Cute without being cutesy.

Childlike without being childish.

You can call it the Pixar approach. The Disney animation studio has mastered the art of making movies that kids can’t resist and parents can tolerate. Similarly, today’s top brands are doing the same, by taking familiar kids’ fashion staples and rendering them in fresh and unexpected new ways. The basic bird inspires flights of fancy thanks to today’s quirky, hand-drawn prints. The classic house cat is cuddly no more, but instead elevated to near-comic proportions with funky, digital prints. Even the beloved star pattern, a longtime staple of layette collections, has received an outof-this world update, with an oversized, asymmetrical and metallic look.

If you ask me, no part of the world is doing this better than Scandinavia. Mini A Ture, Mini Rodini, Molo, Popupshop, Minymo, Polarn O. Pyret: All Scandinavian brands creating playful, colorful, oft-zany collections with a definite dose of style. Maybe it’s the region’s lighthearted approach to life—or its open-minded take on fashion. As Jennifer Athanason, U.S. CEO at Swedish children’s brand Polarn O. Pyret says, “It all kind of circles back to the lifestyle of the Scandinavian people.

There’s a great emphasis on personal freedom and uniqueness.”

Not to mention, traditional gender norms are often thrown out the window. “It’s almost universal in Scandinavia that men are wearing fashion-forward, hipster-type looks. It’s a region of the world full of hipsters,” she jokes. However, she adds pointedly, Swedes aren’t frivolous. “They make stuff that works and looks good.” Athanason describes Polarn O. Pyret as “fun, funky and functional.”

Now there’s a fashion philosophy worth fighting for.

The Swede Spot Should kids dress like kids or model more mature looks? The best brands let them do both.

PH OTO: Jo Jo M a ma n Be be, B lo c h, E. L a nd K ids, FORE! A xe l a nd Hudson, Zu ta no, Ur ba n Sunday, Fe athe r Ba by, L aura A nne & As so ciate s

AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

audrey.kingo@9threads.com 800.ATL.MART

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Talking

Points Resort Ready

Retailers in vacation areas represent a special opportunity for manufacturers. Here’s what to know.

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ROM ROWS OF crab-print swim trunks in Palm Springs, CA, to racks of puffy coats in Aspen, CO, resort retailers are each as distinct as their iconic locations. However, these unique boutiques all have one thing in common: They cater to a vacation crowd. It’s a niche that comes with some definite advantages—and a couple of distinct disadvantages. For brands looking to land a coveted spot on the shelves at a destination shop, don’t forget the following rules.

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CUSTOMERS ARE IN THE MOOD TO SHOP:

Lazy beach days and snowy afternoons spent on the slopes make for relaxed customers—and they’re in the mood to shop. Some shoppers are seeking mementos that will serve as a memory of the trip or as gifts for friends and family, but many are looking for last-minute quick necessities, from ski jackets to swim goggles.

As Michele Powell, owner and operator at Breck Kidz in Breckenridge, CO, puts it: “As a resort retailer, we need to be prepared for everything.”

CUSTOMERS SPEND MORE:

The resort retail shopper is generally a tourist (if not a retiree), and retailers agree that this is a customer who is willing to spend. They are not just enjoying their vacation, after all—they have the time and money to do so. Grandparents are big spenders at Beth Moné Children’s Shoppe in Naples, FL, says Owner Susan Tigwell.

However, retailers in hotel resorts like Valerie Willis, director of retail operations at H.D. Kids & Co. at the Hotel del Coronado in Coronado, 97" iWo j^[h[ Wh[ fb[djo e\ )&#iec[j^_d] fWhents willing to pay a premium for something special, too. No matter the age, this customer has a taste for quality. “These customers will spend for the right items,” acknowledges Rob Koenen, vice president of men’s and kid’s at UGG. As Tigwell puts it: “I am not afraid of a high-end price point.”

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CUSTOMERS WANT THE LATEST:

Resort retailers face many issues that typical retailers do not. Delivery windows can be a constant challenge. As Tigwell says, “The rest of the country doesn’t care if they have spring merchandise in until March or April, but by then my season is over.” And, above all, sales in the high season are high, but conversely can be very low during the off-season. However, some resort retailers use their unique calendar to their advantage: At Gigi’s Children’s Boutique, in Naples, FL, Owner Kristy Malloy occasionally purchases flip-flops and swimsuits from manufacturers at a deep discount (around *& f[hY[dj e\\ " i_dY[ ^[h Ykijec[hi Wh[ ij_bb spending when others have moved on to the next season’s collections. But retailers like Tigwell caution that just because her customers are on vacation doesn’t mean they want last season’s overstock. “I am not an outlet store,” she explains. In addition to wanting a “full story” (meaning toys and cover-ups to go along with those swimsuits), Tigwell says her customers are on the lookout for what’s fresh and new.

CUSTOMERS LOVE WHAT’S UNIQUE AND LOCAL:

As Emily Schuett, co-owner of Thread Swim showroom, says: “The customers shopping at resort retail locations are really looking for that special and unique piece to bring back home. Just as adults love to bring back something special that no one else has, kids want something cool to show their friends when they arrive back home after a vacation.” At Gigi’s Children’s Boutique, customers love the locally made tutus, hair bows, birthday dresses, as well as locally written (and signed) books, says Malloy.

“We are unique in that we also carry a variety of local vendors—our traveling visitors are always able to find something special that they wouldn’t find anywhere else.” One-of-a-kind purchases that bring to mind a treasured time?

Always in season. — Lauren Olsen

Photo: Laura Aldridge

WINTER 2016

New York 212 947-4040 mariav@biscottiinc.com Chicago 312 397-0399 elitekids@prodigy.net Dallas 214 631-2217 btoweryassoc@aol.com

Atlanta 404 524-8897 j a n e t @ j a n e t h u n t e r h a w k i n s . c o m Los Angeles 213 622-9879 rebershoff@sbcglobal.net New England 781 407-0718 markaykids@verizon.net

Magic Act

HOT PROPERTIES

Disney does diaper bags with Petunia Pickle Bottom.

PETUNIA PICKLE BOTTOM, a U.S. manufacturer of diaper bags and other women’s accessories, is borrowing a bit of Disney magic, thanks to a partnership with the iconic company. “By joining forces, guests will have the opportunity to experience the fashion sensibility and innovation of Petunia Pickle Bottom, combined with the magic and wonder of Disney Baby characters,” explains J.D. Edwards, senior vice president of Disney Consumer Products.

To kick off 2016, Disney Baby’s 5-in-1 tote debuted at Walmart. Each tote includes a changing pad, pacifier holder, bottle holder and stroller clips featuring Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse and Winnie the Pooh (MSRP $24.84).

Target also launched a Disney Baby/Petunia Pickle Bottom product line. including a carryall design with several pockets and an adjustable strap.

Everyday essentials are sold separately, including a changing pad, zippered pouch, stroller clips and pacifier pouch in a fun Disney pattern. The product line will be available for a limited time (MSRP $7.49 to $34.99). In April, look for a line of everyday essentials and accessories at Babies“R”Us, in stores and online, as well as one last Disney collection slated for release this summer at retailers like Sears and Amazon. For more info, contact disneyconsumerproducts@disneystore.com. —Emily Beckman

Boot Up

Transformers and My Little Pony trot into footwear.

WANT TO TRANSFORM a fall staple or wrangle up some back-to-school excitement? The Original Muck Boot Company has partnered with Hasbro, Inc. to release a 12-piece collection of children’s boots for Fall ‘16, featuring favorite characters from Transformers and My Little Pony. “Hasbro has created high-quality, beloved products for children and families for more than 90 years,” explains Sean O’Brien, general manager and vice president of retail footwear for Muck Boot. “And together with Muck Boot’s longstanding commitment to providing a premium outdoor collection for men, women and kids, this partnership made sense.”

Characters from the popular properties will appear on two of The Original Muck Boot Company’s bestselling styles, Kids Hale (MSRP $84.95), a fashion boot with a wrap-around sole that provides stability, and Kids Rugged II (MSRP $99.95), which protects little feet in severe cold thanks to foam insulation and fleece lining. Princess Twilight Sparkle, Rainbow Dash and Pinkie Pie will trot across the My Little Pony styles, while the Transformers boots will feature Bumblebee, Grimlock and Optimus Prime, all available in children’s sizes 7 to 13. For more information about the partnership, contact sean.obrien1@honeywell.com. —E.B.

THE CHILDREN’S CLUB New York City March 13th- 15th

Offspring

1385 Broadway Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018 212-279-4150 Mark Zelen

West Coast

TeresaStephen 213-623-8155

Caribbean, Latin America & South Florida

Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-599-8717

Midwest

Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 847-607-8543

Southeast

Paul Daubney 404-577-6840

Northeast

Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999

Texas / Southwest

Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446

Mid Atlantic

Jack Harlan 215-805-1888

Western Canada

Jeff Swartz 604-681-1719

International

Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008

40 Years of Smiles

Crafting high quality and fashion-perfect childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accessories that our trusted partner brands smile about.

Learn more at goldbuginc.com/About_Us or call 800.942.9442

RESH FINDS

Well-Tailored

Leave it to a German brand to marry precise tailoring with function and versatility—and a requisite dose of style. Tom Tailor, a German lifestyle staple since 1962, made its American debut at Project LV in August 2015.

The kids’ collection is available for newborn to size 14, and includes three lines: Tom Tailor Babies, Tom Tailor Minis and Tom Tailor Kids.

Look for classics like T-shirts, hoodies, parkas, button-downs and puffer vests, as well as on-trend pieces, like 70s-inspired flared denims for girls and graphic tees depicting scenes from New York City and California for boys. Wholesale prices range from $8 to $95. www.tom-tailor.eu.

Looking for something special? Try luxe layette or trendy tees.

Royal Treatment

With VIP customers and a storefront in New York City’s trendy Tribeca neighborhood, Livly’s signature coats, dresses and cashmere-blended cardigans have already racked up an impressive following. (Founder Lisa Carrol even created custom outfits for the flower girls and pageboys at Princess Madeleine and Christopher O’Neill’s royal wedding in June 2013.) Carrol officially launched the brand in Sweden in 2011—looking to create a Peruvian pima cotton layette collection suited for the delicate skin of her premature twin daughters, Liv and Lilly. Now available wholesale in the U.S., prices range from $12 to $250 for pieces spanning hand-knit rattles to leather jackets. The new fall collection features a “to the moon and back” motif topped off with whimsical touches—from illustrated castles to the brand’s signature bunny holding a balloon—in a blue, green, dusty pink and khaki color palette. www.livlyclothing.com.

Hit the Jackpot Making Peace

“There came a turning point in my life where I couldn’t sleep at night,” explains Adrian Layne. “I was using leather to make infant footwear, and I am vegetarian.” Layne knew it was time to reevaluate her start-up kids’ brand Cuddlestar—and re-launch with a new 100-percent certified organic, sustainable and ethically-made layette line, dubbed Cat & Dogma. Appropriately, the FW ’16 collection features everything from maps of the world (a homage to the planet) to “I love you” written in seven different languages. Natural fabrics are enlivened with pops of color, made using GOTS-certified dyes and prints. “We even make our clothing generous in the booty for those eco-minded families using cloth diapers,” Layne says.

Cat & Dogma made its debut at NY NOW in January, offering styles for infants’ ages newborn to 24 months and wholesales from $12 to $18. www.catanddogma.com 1 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C C 7 H 9 > ( & ' ,

With fans like LeBron James and George Clooney, men’s label Jacks & Jokers is ready to up the ante. Up next? A kids’ collection chock full of the brand’s hip, witty graphics. (The brand’s name and designs are derived from Bicycle Playing Cards’ historic art and iconic imagery.)

Comfy long-sleeve tees feature cheeky sayings like “Vacation Wanted” and sport scenes from Cali-cool destinations like Malibu. In addition to its U.S.A.-made cotton tees, the line offers a range of hoodies, pull-overs, T-shirts and sweatpants in super-soft washed-down fleece.

The unisex styles range from size 2 to 14 and sport a surf-inspired color palette— shades of blue with pops of orange and green. Wholesale prices range from $18 to $30. www.jacksandjokers.com

Eco System

It’s not easy being green—but it’s certainly worth it, according to Beru Kids Founder Sofia Melograno. The brand exclusively sources deadstock materials while manufacturing out of a local factory in Los Angeles. In addition to its eco-friendly ethos, Melograno also donates 10 percent of the brand’s profits to organizations with a focus on children’s education and activities in East Africa. The first collection debuted at NY NOW in January, filled with vibrant textiles inspired by sub-Saharan Africa, saturated hues and casual silhouettes, like lightweight dresses made from challis fabric and comfy fleece hoodies. For FW ‘16, Beru Kids will treat tots to a season at the circus. Playful harem pants, hoodies, coats and loose-fitting dresses feature geometric prints as well as the occasional pop of leopard. Available for boys and girls ages 1 to 7 years, wholesale prices for the collection range from $20 to $60. www.berukids.com

High Style

After a successful start in England, South Korea, Australia and New Zealand, children’s fashion brand Benedita landed stateside at the January edition of Children’s Club. The label was founded in late 2014 by a collective of Portuguese designers and artisans with the vision of offering a collection of classic, high-quality garments and accessories for newborns up to 10 years. The ultimate goal, says Founder Catarina Pinto Castro, is to provide little ones with a dash of pride via stylish duds. “Feeling loved and pretty everyday builds up children’s confidence,” she explains. “And that will hopefully stay with them forever.”

Fittingly, Benedita’s timeless silhouettes—think overalls, rompers and button-downs for boys and pinafores and cardigans for girls—are rendered in luxurious fabrics, from tweed to velvet. Wholesale prices range from $15 to $70. For FW ’16, special touches include plaid prints, dainty collars and playful ruffles. www.benedita.co.uk

B E R U K I D S P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y K E L LY S W E D A

Sun Savvy

Micro Style

Okabe Teeny Founder Canea Jones received a pretty impressive nod to her fashion bona fides, when her kimono-inspired sleepwear design received mention in The New York Times style section. But the Fashion Institute of Technology grad went on to pursue her passion for childrenswear instead—with a collection of glamorous dresses for girls. Made using faux fur, silks, sequins and crinkle chiffon, the collection’s silhouettes range from traditional A-line to sheath. Flashes of metallic are complemented by rich tones of royal purple and warm neutrals like cream and black. Okabe Teeny debuted at Children’s Club in October, with sizes ranging from 6 months to 5T and wholesale prices from $15 to $25. www.bzholla.wix.com/okabeteeny

Are your customers ready to ditch winter and soak up the sun? Help them do it safely with Mott50.

Former roommates (and sun-loving ladies) Anne Reilly and Monique Hypes launched the protective swimwear line in 2011, offering fashionable styles for women, after learning that 1 in 5 Americans will develop skin cancer over a lifetime.

Now available for kids ages newborn to 12 years, Mott50 provides soft, breathable, lightweight garments certified with a UPF of 50—and with no added chemicals.

The brand’s Resort ’16 collection includes rashguards, cover-ups, sundresses and accessories (from sunhats to baby blankets), featuring beach-friendly graphics such as anchors, flamingos, palm trees and sharks. Wholesale prices range from $14 to $26. www.mott50.com ( & ' , C 7 H 9 > ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 1 1

SHOP

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IT’S NO SECRET that shoppers are scrolling—laptops, iPads and cell phones are so much a part of our lifestyle that they can feel like extensions of our body. But people aren’t just looking to mobile devices for Facebook status updates on their former classmates.

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by Criteo, a digital performance advertising company, mobile sales make up 34 percent of e-commerce transactions worldwide (and those numbers were forecasted to keep climbing.)

The trend holds just as true for childrenswear. Giggle CEO Beth Guastella and PishPosh Baby Director of Marketing and Social Media Esti Barker say that they see continuing growth in mobile traffic to their e-commerce sites. “People are increasingly using mobile devices not just to view/click through email, but to complete a transaction as well,” says Guastella. Alex Frias, co-founder and president of As handheld devices become brand experience agency Track a top tool for shopping, experts Marketing Group notes that reveal how retailers can make mobile commerce now accounts for nearly one-third of all U.S. the most of the now-mandatory e-commerce sales. “Growth in technology. smartphone and social media usage is setting the basis for all

BY LAUREN OLSEN types of retail marketing trends,” he explains. And, as consumers become more comfortable making purchases via mobile, it is becoming increasingly important for retailers to adapt.

Experts agree that there is no one-size-fitsall approach to mobile sales, since size, budget, audience and merchandise all must be taken into account. But retailers of all stripes should focus on creating experiences that are relevant, personalized, and in-step with what’s trending now. Marissa Aydlett, VP of marketing at Appboy, a mobile marketing company, points out that a digital customer should be treated with the same care as an in-store shopper, and notes that the mobile experience can be a multi-step process. For example, a customer could discover a brand or retailer through a Facebook ad, download the relevant mobile application, begin selecting items, and days later get a geo-targeted push-notification reminding them to complete the purchase.

In other words, mastering the world of mobile technology is a journey—here’s what to keep in mind while on board:

Stay Mobile

MASTER SOCIAL MEDIA Mobile technology can’t be separated from social media—channels like Instagram, Twitter, 1 2 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C C 7 H 9 > ( & ' ,

Facebook, Snapchat and Pinterest are crucial vehicles for e-commerce both before and after a purchase. Experts say that customers are increasingly using social media for pre-purchase investigation. Through hashtags and brand/retailer tags, people are finding items to put on their wishlist. “It gives [customers] a new angle on doing research,” notes Barker.

Plus, social media gives the customer an emotional connection to the product. (Think: new and expectant parents looking for a sense of community.)

Not to mention, the word-of-mouth nature of social media means the sales potential can be exponential. After a purchase, if one mom showcases her cool new product on Facebook, her friends are just a click away from becoming customers, too. The best ways to capitalize?

Frias suggests the following: First, add social sharing buttons to your website. (Those buttons you see on web pages that allow users to share the current page on Pinterest, Instagram, Twitter, etc.) Also, incorporate social rewards by offering perks and freebies to customers who follow you on social media or tell their friends about you. Lastly, promote purchase sharing by prompting your customers to share on social media immediately after a successful purchase.

And Frias adds, it’s not just the before-andafter of a purchase where social media comes into play. Increasingly, it’s becoming relevant to the actual shopping process. “One of the biggest trends will be how brands will blur the lines between apps, e-commerce and social media,” he says. “From Instagram’s ‘Shop Now’ to Pinterest’s ‘Buyable Pins,’ today’s hottest platforms are looking for ways to blur the lines between web, social, app and e-commerce.” This means, as social media booms, retailers need to follow suit: make social media shop-able. (Frias says you can do this using existing plug-ins, depending on your e-commerce platform.)

EASY DOES IT While some mobile technology leaders insist that branded shopping apps are necessary for all retailers both big and small (MobiCart Co-Founder Wang Zhikai describes them as “becoming a necessity,” noting that a shopping app means your customer is literally carrying your store around everywhere they go.), many argue that the most cost-effective approach is simply to optimize your website for mobile. “Having a mobile-friendly website isn’t just good practice—it’s a >36

GIVE THE GIFT OF LOVE

800.334.5321 www.wholesale/elegantbaby.com

OnTrend Durango boot

Blu Pony Vintage dress

Mini Shatsu long-sleeve tee

Wee Ones bow Rachel Riley shirt

Vans sneaker

Jak & Peppar vest

Mayoral button-down

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Mud Pie hat

Peppercorn Kids necklace

Malü Organic necklace

Mustard Pie blouse

R U N WAY P H OTO G R A P H Y F R O M P I T T I I M M AG I N E B I M B O .

Western Union

Giddy up, cowpokes: Fall’s latest looks are suited for The Oregon Trail or a shootout at the O.K. Corral. For girls, softhued checks and white lace trim add an antique feel, while banjo-prints and cowboy boots take center stage for little buckaroos. Why are childrenswear designers heading west?

Just look at the latest big screen hits, says Bonnie Matthews, owner of Blu Pony Vintage. (The brand’s vintage pieces continue to resonate with its customers, she reports.) “I believe that fashion and the entertainment business are always very closely influenced,” she explains. “With The Revenant and The Hateful Eight being box office hits, it’s inevitable that fashion will reflect the style of these movies.” Womenswear designers harkened back to the Wild West, too: Miu Miu’s 2016 Resort collection featured cowboy boots, yoke-inspired shoulder details, pointed collars and a raccoon-tail statement earring. Lasso up a few of these darlin’ looks, and let your little cowboys and cowgirls ride off into the sunset with style. —Emily Beckman

Stella Jean

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OnTrend

Gardner and The Gang puffer vest

Teeny Tiny Optics sunglasses

Paul Smith Junior sweater

All That

Huxbaby dress

Serendipity Organics tee

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Dust off your Furby and purchase a new pack of gel pens, because the angst-filled decade of Nirvana and Alicia Silverstone is making a comeback. Some of the ‘90s most memorable fads have already staged a style resurgence—hello Dr. Martens—but look for even more next season, inspired by Fall ’15 women’s collections. (Think Topshop Unique’s micromini plaid dress and leather skirts, and Rag & Bone’s Matrix-inspired collection paired with chunky boots.) Childrenswear designers are ready to rave, too, with grunge-inspired flannel shirts and skull prints that Courtney Love would love, as well as button-front skirts fit for the cast of Clueless. Don’t think overalls pair well with round-frame glasses? As if! —E.B.

Frenchie Mini Couture skirt

True Religion button-down Slugs & Snails tights

ABC123me button-down

Slugs & Snails tights

Dr. Martens boot

Wes & Willy jeans

Junior Gaultier overalls Vierra Rose pants

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Q& A

Smooth Sailing

IT’S A TALE as old as retail: A certain style or product becomes a runaway bestseller. The market’s early innovators rack up sales but must fend off competitors eager to cash in on the fad. Eventually, the trend begins to wane—or does it?

Sometimes the item becomes a fashion staple, destined to last for decades. That’s the case for shearling boots, suggests John Pierce, the president of Bearpaw—maker of the now-ubiquitous boot. The YecfWdo" \ekdZ[Z _d (&&'" \_hij hei[ je ikYY[ii m^[d 9;E Jec Hec[e stumbled into a lucky find: a Chinese manufacturer looking to unload +&"&&& fW_hi e\ i^[[fia_d Xeeji$ J^[ j_c_d] YekbZdÊj ^Wl[ X[[d X[jj[h$ Oprah had just named UGG’s version one of her favorite things, and sales of the cozy boots were booming. But the market was missing a mid-price alternative (with the exception of EMU Australia, which was stymied by internal problems). Enter Bearpaw. Within five years, j^[ YecfWdo mWi i[bb_d] ' c_bb_ed fW_hi W o[Wh$ A veteran of the footwear industry with experience on both the retail and manufacturing ends of the business, Pierce came on board Wj 8[WhfWm _d (&'& Wi j^[ XhWdZÊi dWj_edWb iWb[i cWdW][h$ >[ mWi introduced to Romeo when the two were partnered together during <Wceki <eejm[WhÊi WddkWb ]eb\ ekj_d]$ Ç8o j^[ [dZ e\ '. ^eb[i" ^[ iW_Z he needed to try and find a way to get me on board,” Pierce recalls.

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After navigating the rough retail waters of 2015, Bearpaw President John Pierce reveals why the brand is headed for a successful year—thanks in part to a growing kids’ collection.

BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

Since then, Bearpaw has grown steadily, thanks in part to several factors, including an expanded fashion collection filled with on-trend details and a bigger focus on the kids’ market, where Pierce sees plenty of opportunity for increased sales. To facilitate that growth, the brand h[ZkY[Z j^[ fh_Y[ \eh Yeh[ a_ZiÊ ijob[i Xo '& je */$// h[jW_b WdZ hired a new designer with experience in the juniors’ market to provide a more colorful, playful and kid-friendly assortment.

F_[hY[ _i j^[ \_hij je WZc_j j^Wj (&'+ mWi W jek]^ o[WhÆZk[ _d fWhj je the weirdly warm fall temperatures. As a result, reports of the demise of the shearling boot have been greatly exaggerated, he adds. “I think it’s going to stick around because it’s a staple item in every woman’s closet, kind of like a flip-flop in summer. There’s always going to be a need for it,” he posits. The key for Bearpaw is to continue to evolve beyond the classic sheepskin boot silhouette, offering thinner, shorter crop-height boots for a more feminine look, as well as wedges, sandals and slip-ons. “At this point in time, we’re nowhere near where we can be as a total company, but the awareness is growing,” he continues.

“Moms know our boots, and what they stand for—the comfort factor. And if she sees a different style on the shelf, she is going to be comfortable giving them a try because of the experience she’s had in the past with our boots.”

Thankfully, Pierce adds, Bearpaw’s retailers are completely on board with the brand’s expansion—and a lot of the credit for that can be attributed to Pierce himself, who constantly solicits feedback from the company’s buyers. “I firmly believe in listening to the retailers,” he adds. “I firmly believe that if you know what their needs are and how they operate, it will make things easier for us moving forward.

You can’t be so arrogant that you think you know everything.”

No surprise, considering retailing runs in the family. Pierce’s father, Ray Pierce, worked his way up the ranks at JCPenney, retiring after )* o[Whi Wi j^[ fh[i_Z[dj e\ j^[ YecfWdoÊi fh_lWj[ bWX[b Xki_d[ii$ Pierce was at first reluctant to follow in his father’s footsteps. “I was a huge sports fanatic, and growing up I wanted to work on the manufacturing side, for a Nike or a Titleist,” he remembers. Not to mention, he didn’t want to be known as “Ray Pierce’s kid.” So after graduating college, he managed a Foot Locker for seven years. When one of his father’s colleagues offered him job at JCPenney as an athletic footwear buyer, he reconsidered his stance. “I learned quickly that people are always going to think you don’t belong where you are for all sorts of reasons, and you have to be thicker-skinned than that.”

It’s safe to say the seasoned industry vet has earned his stripes.

Even after last year’s challenges, Pierce remains optimistic about

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the state of retail overall, and predicts 2016 will be another successful year for Bearpaw. “Every day we progress and improve a little more,” he points out. “We’ve got plenty of room to grow. We’re still a small company in the scheme of things, but in my six years, we’ve made a lot of huge strides in terms of what we want to do and where we want to go.”

How did last year’s tough retail climate impact your business?

There are some people out there who want to find a reason for the shearling business to go away, and anytime there’s a bump in the road, they like to claim it’s done. But we experienced something like this in 2012—that fall/winter was very similar. And in 2013, people overcorrected and underbought, and they were in chase mode throughout that year. And we had a banner UP CLOSE WITH 2013. We’re planning for the same next year. However, no one really predicted the slowdown in classic styles, I will say that. That’s kind What are you reading of a head-scratcher. right now? Other than the 500 emails I get a Customers are moving away day, I don’t really have from the classic boot? any time. But if I were to When I started with the company, read a book, my dad just classics were 80 to 85 percent of published his life story. He our total business. In 2015, it was made about 75 copies for about 55 percent of our total busifamily and friends. ness. So that percent total is going

JOHN PIERCE

down, while our annual revenues continue to go up. And the reason for that is because we’re offering a lot of different products—a much bigger assortment that gives retailers the ability to expand beyond the classics. This year was abnormally slow, and we really can’t put a finger on it, other than the lack of a winter—and even a lack of fall.

Our fashion products actually sold through pretty well. So if women were going out and buying, they were buying fresh and new product as opposed to that classic style they may already have in their closet.

What word describes your outlook right now?

Positive. People always ask me, “Why are you smiling?” I tell them, “It’s just shoes.” I enjoy what I do, so I’m going to stay positive.

What’s your favorite way to spend a free afternoon? On the couch watching sports.

What three items would you bring to a deserted island? I’ve got a wife and three kids. Can my twins count as one? Then I can get it down to three.

Did Bearpaw also see a slowdown in kids’ classic styles, too?

We didn’t see it as much in kids’ as we did on the women’s side. That’s probably because our women’s side is a more mature business than what we’ve been doing in kids’.

There’s still plenty of growth to be had on the kids’ side.

And kids get bigger every year, so even if it’s a pair of brown shearling boots, moms still have to buy it every year.

That always helps. And we try to introduce new colors and prints every season, to give our customers a reason to buy something else to put in their closet.

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How important is the kids’ category for Bearpaw?

We’re putting more focus on it because we’ve seen some growth. It used to be 14 percent of our total business, but now it’s closer to 18 percent. As our total revenues grow, and that percent to total grows, it’s becoming more and more important. On the kids’ side, 60 percent of our sales on Bearpaw.com came from classic styles, and 40 percent came from fashion boot purchases. That’s much closer than it was in years past, when it was more like 75/25. The fashion element is something moms are looking for, whether it’s cute bows, embroidery, appliqués or glitter.

At the end of the day, eye-catching product is key.

We hired a new designer in March of last year. She comes from a juniors’ background with Chinese Laundry and MIA, so she offers a different perspective. We had a gentleman running the department previously, and his approach was just to offer takedowns.

Build a women’s line and whatever may work, take it down to kids.

And you can’t do that.

That’s interesting, because I always hear that today’s moms want to dress their daughters like themselves—thus the growing Mommy & Me trend.

There’s still plenty of crossover between our women’s and kids’ styles, but we also have to introduce new silhouettes just for kids. Kids are growing so fast—some girls are in women’s sizes by the 4th grade. But you have to remember that they’re still little girls. Not all moms want their kids to look like mommy, and not all moms want their kids to grow up so fast. You have to keep that in mind and make sure you’re offering something that’s kid-friendly.

My last editor’s note touched on this topic. I suggested retailers offer kid-friendly styles in larger sizes.

Our kids’ sizes used to go to a size 4. Two years ago we took it up to a size 5. And there are times when our customers ask, ‘Can you take it to a 6?’ Not only because the price is better, but also because they have young girls who aren’t ready to make the jump to women’s. In fact, we changed our size runs in kids’—which also makes it more conducive for sell-through for our retailers. Before, our toddler runs were 5 to 10 and our youth runs 11 to 4. We eliminated the sizes 5 and 6 in our toddler collection, because it seemed like retailers were always stuck with the smaller sizes. By taking our toddler sizes up to a 7 to 12, and our youth sizes up to a 13 to 5, we’re saving mom a few extra dollars a year.

Right. Price will always be a big consideration in the kids’ market.

When I first came on board at Bearpaw, we were doing sheepskin linings in kids’ boots, similar to what we did on the women’s side— but our price points were difficult because we were around $59 on a basic pair. Our women’s boots were $69, so there was only a $10 difference between the two. In 2012, we made the decision to go to a wool blend lining with a sheepskin footbed, which allowed us to bring the price down to a more affordable rate of $49.99. That really jumpstarted our kids’ business.

What are some of Bearpaw’s bestselling kids’ styles?

Our Harper boot, with a V-cut and a little bow on the back, did very well in Fall ’15. As did the Macey, a non-functional lace-up (so moms don’t have to worry about tying the shoes) with cold-weather elements >38

www.elizabethcate.com

Design History faux fur gilet, Tommy Hilfiger suit, We Love Colors leotard.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY IGOR BORISOV ! STYLING BY MARIAH WALKER

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Deux Par Deux dress, Gold Toe socks, Young Soles shoes. Opposite page: Elizabeth Cate hat and cardigan, Rockinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Baby dress.

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Borsalino hat, Egg by Susan Lazar suit, Tommy Hilfiger shirt; Andy & Evan hat, Appaman 3-piece suit and button-down; Little Lids cap, Andy & Evan bowtie, button-down and pants.

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Biscotti dress, Gold Toe socks, Hanna Andersson shoes. Opposite page: Suoak hat and top.

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Andy & Evan hat, Body Wrappers leotard worn under Tocot贸 Vintage jacket and pants, Florsheim oxfords.

Opposite page: Capezio leotard worn under Soft Gallery jacket and skirt.

Assistant styling

by Dani Morales; hair and makeup by Lindsey Williams/ Kate Ryan, Inc.

FALL/WINTER ’16 EUROPEAN TREND REPORT

EUROPEAN DESIGNERS ARE well known—and loved—for adding a dash of the avant-garde to the kids’ market, and this year is certainly no exception. Recreating a range of childhood fantasylands, from rugged rodeos to colorful cosmos, brands are encouraging their intrepid young customers to explore a diverse range of prints, fabrics and silhouettes this fall, with looks that will inspire imaginative journeys (but are fit for real world adventures, too). Fresh from kids’ trade shows in Florence, Paris, London, Copenhagen and Madrid, we asked an array of style experts—buyers, designers and fashion forecasters—to share Europe’s top trends for Fall ’16. The verdict? Expect an eclectic mix of circus pompoms, cheetah print and rock ‘n’ roll-inspired denim to journey stateside in coming seasons. —Emily Beckman

ADVENTURE TIME LISTEN UP

Patachou Barcarola

Paul Smith Junior

Have you heard? From poufy to pointy, furry friends are lending an ear to fall accessories, peeking out atop headbands, hoods and hats. In Florence, Fun & Fun’s feline-shaped bedazzled headbands and YCLÙ’s monochrome ear-endowed kitty hats were perched upon the head of the runway’s mini models.

Rendered in fabrics like felt, fleece and fur, animal ears add an easy dose of charisma and charm. “It’s a great way of combining a playful look with a sophisticated style,” explains Carol Adams, owner of Torly Kid. “Even my teenager wanted a hoodie with ears on it!”

FAR OUT Kids’ looks are venturing to “a galaxy far, far away” in FW ‘16, according to WGSN Senior Kidswear Editor Erin Rechner. Childrenswear designers traveled to the moon and back, touching down on runways with interstellar designs emblazoned with highshine metallics, star-studded prints and galactic graphics. Il Gufo even transformed the runway into a planetarium with stars and planets galore.

Industry experts point to an influx of recent celestial events as the inspiration behind the space-driven trend—with the release of Star Wars: The Force Awakens being most salient in kidswear. A colorway of gray, white and silver, along with occasional neon accents, sets the stage for looks that mimic everything from astronaut gear to alien guise, including spacesuit-inspired puffer jackets, printed rocket ship tees and clunky moon boots. “We only forsee an increase in seasons to come working well into all seasonal drops,” explains Rechner, forecasting outof-this-world success for the trend.

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Yporqué

Mayoral

WILD WEST Say howdy to fringe, tassels and suede as western-inspired fashions gallop into the spotlight. Earthy hues paired with bright rooster graphics liven up Stella Jean’s collection while Cape’s ponchos present a mod rancher appeal with whimsy floral embroidery and pompom placement reflective of a horse’s mane.

“Cowboys and cowgirls have been growing as a trend over a few seasons,” says Clifton. “Stella McCartney Kids showed this really well.” From ponies to patchwork, it’s undeniable that designers looking to their lucky horseshoe for fall.

Kenzo

Hilda.Henri

JUNGLE BOOGIE Get ready to embrace your wild side. “The jungle trend is a continuation of the palm and plant prints and jungle animal designs seen in SS ’16,” says Beth Clifton, fashion buyer for AlexandAlexa. “But the forthcoming release of the new Jungle Book movie has definitely had an impact as well.” For Fall ’16, prints grew bolder, dominated by cheese plants and palm leaves. As evidence, Clifton points to animal prints in loud, vivid colors, from clashing orange and pink cheetah spots at Kenzo to classic leopard prints with quirky badge details at Little Marc Jacobs. Bold green palm prints also shaded shows like Joules and Dolce & Gabbana Junior.

Mini A Ture

Molo

ROCK ON

YCLÙ

From studded boots to leather jackets, “rock chic” looks added an edge to Europe’s runways. A moody color palette set the stage for the trend, exemplified by chalky typography as well as graphic and illustrated prints like skulls and edgy urban scenes. And of course, no hard rock look would be complete without a pair of distressed jeans, with acid-washed accents and tasteful tears.

“I dig denim doing very cool interpretations of this trend,” says Gardner and The Gang Founder and Creative Director Kristin Nystrom, who adds that the trend is très cool, but still understated enough for play.

Yporqué

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CLOWNING AROUND

Macarons

It’s no joke: Several Fall ’16 collections took a trip to the circus, with harlequin prints, polka dots and stripes across a wild color palette of lively oranges and friendly blues. Pompoms stood at the center of the ring as a key circus-inspired embellishment, Adams reports.

“Pompoms are a trend I see in the U.S. as well, but mostly on accessories like headbands, key chains and hats,” she explains—the poufy detail had a larger impact on runways in Italy.

Dolce & Gabbana Junior, Gardner and The Gang and Fun & Fun were just a few of the collections that clowned around this season with colorful pompoms, funky faux fur and brash multicolor prints.

Junior Gaultier

Aymara

Fun & Fun

THAT 70S SHOW Last fall’s ‘70s comeback is making an even bigger wave this year, with girls’ lines gravitating towards A-line skirts, jumpers and tie-blouses while boys’ collections contain oversized designs on intarsia sweaters, retro overalls and activewear-inspired jackets. The revival of a retro autumnal color palette (browns, marigolds and greens) along with prints like vintage paisleys and oversized florals are all proof that designers are still feelin’ groovy, according to Fashion Snoops’ Trend Editor Ania Witkowski. “A lot of the ‘70s trends are trickling their way into childrenswear from mens’ and women’s,” explains Witkowski. “It’s especially becoming apparent as parents gravitate toward mini-me styles for their kids.”

FALL/WINTER ’16 EUROPEAN TREND REPORT

Ine De Haes

Patachou

PRETTY IN PLAID

Caramel

Whether you’re inspired by 1700s Scotland or grungy ‘90s counterculture, plaid should be on your radar as the season’s must-have pattern.

Spanning buffalo checks to school girl classics, plaids are a staple of every back-to-school season, but this year European brands are kicking it up a notch with bolder pieces like all-over-plaid harem pants and oversized jackets. In addition, designers like Hilda.Henri and Péro presented plaid-on-plaid outfits that turn an anticipated fashion faux-pas into a fabulous couture statement.

Hilda.Henri

SHOP

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prerequisite,” states Frias, adding that the website should be clean and easy to navigate. Sites should be personalized, and as a general rule of thumb, contain less information than what you would find on a desktop. “On a [traditional] website more is better, and on a mobile device website less is better,” explains Net Future Institute CEO and bestselling author Chuck Martin. “People using mobile phones are looking for something specific on the web; at home people are doing an overall search.” Regardless, short bursts of information are key, he continues.

For retailers on a smaller budget, Frias notes that Google offers a free test that diagnoses how mobile-friendly a website is, and whether it is optimized for mobile. And if your site is hosted on Wordpress, you have the capability to automatically readjust for mobile devices, adds Martin. But ideally retailers should re-design their website using a mobile-first strategy, so that the ease of a customer’s browsing experience will be similar to that of a desktop no matter what device is in their hands. And don’t forget: Your website will vary in look and function on an iPad versus, say, a laptop, so it is important to keep all forms of mobile tech in mind. Overall, Aydlett says: “Creating a mobile platform can vastly vary in terms of cost—this can be as expensive or as inexpensive as you’d like it to be.”

However, the pros all agree on one crucial piece of advice: Focus on the ease of the checkout process. Mike Burk, director of product management at e-commerce platform Bigcommerce, recommends enabling users to checkout without having to create an account and speedingup payments by offering options like PayPal One Touch. “There’s often

plenty of low-hanging fruit,” he explains. “Allowing users to checkout without creating an account avoids the cumbersome process of filling out a registration form on a mobile device.” In sum, whether retailers choose to launch their own app or to optimize their website for mobile (or both), the focus should be on making the mobile experience as easy and quick as possible for the customer—simplicity is key.

DO YOUR RESEARCH Experts know that shoppers are researching purchases on their phones before pulling the trigger to buy. But they’re also looking up products in your brick-and-mortar store, too. From last-minute research to finding deals in-store (often scanning a UPC or QR code), customers are looking for the best price and option.

For smaller retailers who are unable to match prices with big box behemoths, this is often viewed as a negative development, but experts recommend taking advantage of the trend instead. Martin suggests retailers scan their own UPC codes to see what their customers are finding. Whether that is to match price points or to figure out how to react to what is being said in reviews, it makes sense for retailers to be aware of the information their customers are gathering. Armed with knowledge, a trained, friendly sales staff can help address questions and concerns—often clinching a sale.

Or, follow the example of Giggle, and come up with smart ways to encourage customers to use their cell phone in-store. The company’s recently launched app allows shoppers to use their phones to scan

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items and create a registry in-store. Guastella says the results have been hugely lucrative—The app was voted by Vogue.com as one of 2015’s best.

TAKE ADVENTAGE OF TECH For retailers ready to invest major cash in their mobile efforts, an array of new firms offer intelligent tech capabilities that analyze your customers’ mobile habits to create custom, targeted content. With that information you can “send the right message, at the right time, to the right person,” says Aydlett. Her company’s Intelligent Delivery system, for example, uses a unique algorithm to utilize a customer’s data from prior interactions. This, in turn, enables companies to send push notifications and messages at just the right moment, when users appear to be most receptive. Those push-notifications, she adds, are a great way to boost sales.

Shopping apps like Shopkick allow retailers to target their customers the second they step in the door, by offering rewards for walking in, discovering products and making a purchase. Margot Langsdorf, VP of Client Services at Shopkick adds that the app is successful because, “Customers are rewarded for the shopping they are already doing with our currency—‘kicks,’ which they can redeem for gift cards.”

The first step in taking advantage of smart technology, Martin cautions, is to get approval from your customer for any continuing communication. Then, ask permission to send geo-targeted text messages to them. One of the hottest things in retail right now, Martin adds, are beacons (small radio transmitters interacting with apps that allow retailers to send messages to a customer’s phone, and even capture information about where the customer traveled in-store).

CHOOSE ALL CHANNELS For all of the benefits that mobile technology affords, digital can never truly match a physical experience in certain ways (think: touching, trying on, feeling, truly seeing, and even smelling a product).

Martin points to data that suggests that over 90 percent of people still prefer to make purchases in a physical store. Thus, instead of seeing mobile as competing with brick-and-mortar, experts agree that these different channels should be viewed as complementary.

Technology has afforded retailers the gift of being able to know more about their customer—whether that’s through an Instagram follow or a high-tech algorithm—and they should take advantage.

As Langsdorf says, “The biggest mistake we see retailers make is to view mobile as an or game versus an and game” she says.

And, no matter if a customer makes a purchase in-person or online, the basic tenets of good retail will always remain relevant.

“People want to be inspired, and have an easy and enjoyable shopping experience,” says Georgia McKee, e-commerce coordinator at AlexandAlexa. “Ensuring they have a seamless and enjoyable experience to ensure they come back again, is always the top priority of all retailers.” And while cost may certainly be a big factor for some, it is important that all retailers turn an eye toward mobile technology. “[It’s not a matter of ] having a choice anymore,” says childrenswear consultant Christine McCarthy, owner of CMSM, BB9$ 7i i^[ fkji _j5 Ç@kij ][j _d j^[ ]Wc[$È

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like exposed fur. The Kelly is another popular cold-weather style we introduced last year.

So in a year with a weirdly warm winter, cold-weather boots were bestsellers?

Yes, we saw that on the women’s side, too. Even though there was no snow on the ground, the sell-through on that type of product was still pretty solid, even in early October. Whether it’s the popularity of Sorel, or another brand leading the charge, there is a definite fashion element behind it. It’s not all about function.

We introduced the Kelly boot in Fall ’15, and the sell-throughs on it were so outstanding that we added three similar kids-only styles for Fall ’16.

You’ve adjusted your kids’ design and price points. Has your retail strategy changed over the years?

It really hasn’t changed much. Our main account base is DSW, Shoe Carnival, Famous

Footwear, Shoe Show, Shoe Dept., Bob’s and independent retailers across America. We’re firmly entrenched in the mid-tier market as the go-to [shearling boot] brand. It’s all about quality and value. We offer great margins for the retailer and great value for the customer.

What about e-commerce? Are direct-toconsumer sales a big part of your business?

Right now, it’s only about 3 percent of our total business. Our current focus is building our email base and exposing more people to the brand. We’re a full-price site. We never run any promotions—even in difficult times. The intent is to showcase the entire brand and let people see everything we have to offer.

I’m sure your retailers appreciate that!

Very much so. The last thing they want to do is compete with us. It’s hard enough competing with Amazon—which is a big eyesore for us. In 2015, we initiated a MAP policy to level

the playing field for all of our retailers. That’s another reason we want to make sure we maintain the integrity of the price on Bearpaw.com.

How do you deal with a behemoth like Amazon?

Last year we decided to stop selling to Amazon directly. Any product that’s on there is through third party sellers. That’s the difficult piece— they don’t prohibit anyone from selling on their third party marketplace. And I believe they use that marketplace to drive prices down so then Amazon itself can match them, because Amazon’s mantra is to be the lowest price on the Internet. By removing the behemoth from the equation, we can start to bring everybody else in line [in terms of pricing] and make sure everyone is playing fair.

It sounds like the brick-and-mortar channel is still a big focus.

We do plenty of business with online-only

ĹŹ s 7 B retailers, but my concern is theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re always the most difficult to control. And as for the omnichannel discussion that everyone is having now, everything you read says the customer is still going to the stores. Sometimes they are using the website to find a price or a product, but they are going to the store to try things onâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;especially when it comes to footwear. We still firmly believe in brick-andmortar, but we know we have to be conscious of the fact that the Internet is growing.

How do you plan to grow your kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; business going forward?

One thing we havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t done is really build awareness on the kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; side. Giving Earnshawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more attention is one part of the plan. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to start to spend more in marketing, because weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had a low percent-to-revenue marketing spend, and I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important as we continue to grow and introduce new product, that we spend more on that front.

Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a refreshing approach. Many brands cut back on marketing during tough times.

Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the easy way, but if anything you should spend more in a down time, because you still want to stay in front of the public. You still want to have an ongoing dialogue with your customer.

How about spring styles? Any potential for growth there?

Yes. We tried a spring line for the first time in 2013, and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been evolving since then. For Spring â&#x20AC;&#x2122;16, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re offering sandals and canvas, jute-wrapped slip-ons. If we could make that 10 percent of our total [kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;] business, it would be a nice spring business to have.

Our key partners have stepped up and are giving us a shot because of what weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve meant to them for the fall season. Last year one of our bestsellers in kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; was the Arizona, a Birkenstock-style sandal at an affordable price point.

How do you know what styles to add to the collection?

By listening to our customers and to our accounts about whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s working in the marketplaceâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and what makes sense for Bearpaw.

One example: This year we added a side zipper to our classic Emma boot in the toddler range, to make it easier for mom to get the shoes on. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s because Famous Footwear came to us last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;They wanted to add our toddler styles to the mix, but the storeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buyers said itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s got to have a zipper.

Looking ahead, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the biggest challenge for Bearpaw?

Coming off a tough year like 2015, our biggest challenge is getting people to continue to buy into the brand. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been in front of all our major partners, and theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all on board. They know it was a difficult year, but they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see the demise of shearling boots. Another challenge for us, because weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a bigger player (Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re No. 2 in market share in terms of this type of product.) is thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more competition.

Deckers bought Koolaburra with the intent of bringing a mid-price product to the market, and I know thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to come after us. Now that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got more competition, we have to make sure we continue to innovate. We have to continue to offer freshness and newness and Z[b_l[hĂ&#x2020;ed j_c[Ă&#x2020;j^[ iWc[ lWbk[ WdZ gkWb_jo ekh Xko[hi [nf[Yj$ Â&#x161;

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shop talk Family Matters AS A MOM to six kids, including three foster girls with developmental disabilities, Christina Maurizi wanted to launch a business she could run with her family in mind. It wasn’t until her youngest was born that she fell in love with boutique clothing, inspiring her to open her own kids’ shop.

BW :_ :W 9^_bZh[dÊi 8ekj_gk[ Z[Xkj[Z _d 9ebkcX_W" CE" _d 7k]kij (&'+$ “This is so much more than a business,” says Maurizi. “I absolutely love connecting with other moms and gushing over our children.”

The store’s woodland aesthetic—including a shoe display that resembles a birch tree—evolved from an inspired bit of problem-solving. “I had a big pole in the store and I was trying to think of something to build that would be purposeful and friendly,” she explains. “So we

side—with the whimsical notion of welcoming fairies. “Made by a mom in Australia, the YouTube video says it all—they are adorable!” www.littlefairydoor.com

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2. “Lemon Loves Lime layette sells out every month for us!” www.lemonloveslime.com

7. Three Loves Designs’ chunky necklaces are made in Maurizi’s community, using fun beads in bright hues—she describes them as “oh-so-cute!” www.facebook.com/ ThreeLovesDesigns

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3. One of the store’s bestseller for boys? “See Kai Run shoes keep the boys coming back for more!” www.seekairun.com

8. Mini Melissa shoes are the shop’s No. 1 bestseller for girls. “The cat shoes are a big hit!” www.shop melissa.com/mini

4. “We recently found a manufacturer for our store brand La Di Da,” she says. “It just hit the shelves and will soon be available online.” www.boutiqueladida.com 5. “The Lux toy is a big draw for boys,” says Maurizi of the popular building system that includes a patent-pending lock and hinge— ideal for creating flexible structures. “And it’s made in the U.S.” www.luxblox.com

9. “We love dressing girls, but it’s not just about the aesthetics,” she explains. “We also want our girls to be well-educated so we carry GoldieBlox, an engineering toy for girls.” www.goldieblox.com

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Owner Christina Maurizi loves bonding with fellow moms.

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6. “We are excited to have ‘Lil Fairy Door in-store for 2016,” she says of the tiny doors that can be put on walls, shelves or even out-

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4 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C C 7 H 9 > ( & ' ,

10. A personal favorite? Persnickety, says Maurizi. “It’s hard leaving it in the store, and not taking it all home!” www.persnicketyclothing.com

P O R T R A I T A N D I M AG E S 4 , 5 & 7 P H OTO G R A P H E D BY ST E P H A N I E S I E F K A S .

1. “Our own local bow artist Cutie Bowtutie has so many outstanding custom-made pieces,” says Maurizi. The bows are even custom dip-dyed to match La Di Da’s inventory. www.dollsilly.com

made it into a tree and put up a picket fence.”

J^[ Xekj_gk[ YWhh_[i el[h )& Y^_bZh[dÊi XhWdZi" _dYbkZ_d] _ji emd ^eki[ line La Di Da. “We made our own line of essential basics that can be lay[h[Z kdZ[h ekh \Wleh_j[ XhWdZi"È i^[ Z[iYh_X[i$ Ç7j W fh_Y[ e\ )& W i[j" j^[o are very popular and will help little ones get into their new spring dresses a bit earlier without being cold.”

Upon arrival, each little customer is handed a snack and juice before watching a movie of their choice while parents sip tea and shop. “We treat our La Di Da kids like royalty,” Maurizi says. “And many of the mothers and grandmothers who shop here become not just clients but our friends.”

—Emily Beckman

You buy.

We give.

For every Rockin’ Baby clothing item you purchase, we will donate a new item of clothing from our hero range to a child in need. The more you buy – the more we can give.

Child to Child.

We are the only company in the world doing one for one on kidswear and in our first year have won three prestigious awards: USA REPS:

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