E U R O P E A N FA L L T R E N D R E P O RT • I N S I D E T R I M FO OT ’ S L EG ACY • W H AT ’ S C O O L FO R BAC K - TO - S C H O O L
VOLUME 101 NUMBER 3
Sister Act
Explore the dynamic of fall fashion and family ties.
MARCH 201 7 $10.00
CHILDREN’S CLUB JAVITS CENTER Booth #10114 March 5,6,7
FIELDSTONE AmericasMart Building 2, Suite 912 230 Spring St NW Atlanta, GA 30304 207.284.2000 www.fieldstonemarketing.com Southeast - AL, FL, GA, MS, NC, SC, TN, Northeast - DC, DE, MD, NJ, NY, PA, VA, W.VA New England - CT, ME, MA, NH, VT, RI Midwest - IN, IL, KY, MI, MN, ND, SD, OH, WI
MARIA GIAMPAOLO SHOWROOM 75 McNeil Way Suite 210 Dedham, MA 02026 781.320.1982 CT, ME, MA, NH, VT, RI
ELOISA AND MIA California Market Center 110 E 9th St #A611 Los Angeles, CA 90079 213.486.9827 CA, NV, OR, WA, ID, AZ, UT, MT, WY, CO, NM
FRANK ZIEBELL AND ASSOCIATES Dallas World Trade Center 2050 N Stemmons Fwy #8660 Dallas, TX 75207 214.630.2384 TX, OK, LA, AR, NM, MS
FULL SPEED AHEAD Gear for the fast and furious.
sales@ulcapparel.com 212-299-4175
M ARCH 2017 CONTENTS
F E AT URE S 8 Loud & Clear European fall fashion is brimming with personality, color and eye-catching designs. 12 Foot Notes Chief Operating Officer Michael M. Langfitt plots Trimfoot’s growth.
PAGE 20
14 Back-to-School Buys The ultimate guide to the cool kid’s mind. 20 Family Matters Siblings sporting a variety of mix-and-match prints prove that many personalities can play in one household.
DEPA RT M EN T S 4 Editor’s Note 6 Small Talk 16 Retail Report 18 Trend Watch 30 Up Close 36 Shelf Help
This page: Andalucia (left) wears Sonatina hat, Mayoral poncho, Elisa B. skirt, Soft Gallery leggings; Bianca (right) wears Blade & Rose hat, Blue Rooster shirt, Biscotti skirt, Pink Chicken leggings. On cover: Hunter (left) wears Bows Arts headband, Sonatina scarf, Andy & Evan jacket, Frenchie Mini Couture dress, Nice Things leggings; Haden (right) wears Bows Arts headband, Barque jacket, Deux par Deux dress, her own bracelet. Photography by Oliver Pilcher; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; styling assistant Madison Donaldson.
Noelle Heffernan Publisher Kristin Young Editor-in-Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Emily Beckman Associate Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 135 West 20th Street Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller
EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 135 West 20th Street, Suite 402 New York, NY 10011. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
2
E A R N S H AW S . C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
EDITOR’S NOTE
L
Back to Class
OOKING BACK ON my childhood, as much as I adored the summer months, I loved the back-toschool season even more. From the brand-new books whose spines I had yet to crack to the prospect of freshening up my wardrobe, it was an annual ritual to relish. Every year, my mother would take my younger sister and me shopping for clothes—an all-day affair that would exhaust everybody but her. Even as children, shopping for clothes was an exercise in self-expression and creativity. It was all about scavenging for items that our friends would not likely find. By the time classes rolled around, my sister and I were ready to tackle the school year. In “School Rules,” page 16, I was thrilled to find that backto-school traditions are alive and well at small specialty stores across the country. Contrary to some reports that the season had waned in recent years due to customers spreading out their purchases throughout the year, as well as the buy-now wear-now trend, store owners say they use the opportunity to connect with customers, unveil new inventory and boost their bottom lines. Back-to-school fashion isn’t simply utilitarian, they say. Making a strong sartorial statement at school has the power to boost a child’s self-esteem which helps them thrive in the classroom. Each back-to-school season is also a chance for stores to stock up on must-have items and add-on sales. In “Backto-School Buys,” page 14, we highlight unique items on the
4
E A R N S H AW S . C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
market, unusual takes on staples like lunchboxes, backpacks and mobile phone accessories. (Personally, I’m partial to the mirror that sticks to the back of a cellphone.) According to trend forecasters, fashion-forward merchandise is expected to sell briskly throughout the season. Turn to page 8, where we break down the most important directions coming from the European trade shows, ranging from graphic prints to lush fur. When I think back to my school days, another memory that stands out is the time I shared with my sister. The little moments that we took for granted then seem so much more important as adults. Simply walking to school and back, hanging out at dad’s office in the afternoons or participating in activities like gymnastics—my sister was always around and always had my back. This month, Earnshaw’s celebrates that special bond siblings share in our fashion spread “Family Matters,” on page 20. These images serve as a lovely reminder that there is no person on earth who gets you quite like a sibling.
KRISTIN YOUNG k ri s ti n .yo u n g @ 9 t h r e a d s . co m
THE ONLY ANNUAL EVENT EXCLUSIVELY FOR THE JUVENILE SPECIALTY STORE MARKET.
Spring Educational Conference & Trade Show MAY 1–3, 2017
REGISTER TODAY!
For more information contact: www.allbabyandchildsec.com
SMALL TALK “INSPIRATION CAN COME FROM ANYWHERE! SOMETIMES I FIND IT IN A FILM, IN A PERSONALITY OR IN A HISTORICAL MOMENT. I LIKE INVESTIGATING NEW TECHNIQUES AND EXPERIMENTING WITH FABRICS. I ALSO LOVE PATTERNS AND THEIR TRANSFORMATIONS.”
LATIN LESSONS Spanish designers, a tour de force in childrenswear around the world, turned out in large numbers at last month’s Playtime New York. Well-known for producing traditional looks in modern cuts and favored by celebrities such as the Duchess of Cambridge, designers disclosed to Earnshaw’s what informs and inspires their collections. In many cases, it is the culture and heritage of their native land.
—CRISTINA FERNANDEZ, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, LITTLE CREATIVE FACTORY
“BOTH THE CLIMATE AND THE WAY OF LIFE ACCOMPANIED BY THE LONG-LASTING AREA OF CATALONIA ARE A MAIN INFLUENCE IN OUR LINE. DUE TO OUR LOCATION (NEAR BOTH THE MOUNTAINS AND THE SEASIDE ), WE NEED OUR WARDROBE TO BE VERSATILE.” —INÉS VILASECA, COFOUNDER, VERSATIL-E
TONALITIES OF NATURE FOR FALL : CARAMEL, SALMON, SOFT PINK, DEEP RED—ALL THE SHADES OF THE FALLING LEAVES IN THE WOODS. THE FABRICS ARE HARMONIOUS WITH THE RIGORS OF THE WEATHER IN SPAIN DURING THAT TIME OF YEAR : COTTONS, KNITS, ALPACA WOOL, A TOUCH OF JACQUARD AND CASHMERE.” —NÚRIA IRACHETA, FOUNDER AND DESIGNER,
6
E A R N S H AW S . C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
—LOURDES ROBLES, MANAGER, TARANTELA
KNITTING TRADITION IN THE
“WE HAVE PREFERRED THE
MY LITTLE COZMO
“SPAIN HAS ALWAYS BEEN A COUNTRY WITH NICE MATERIALS, SKILLFUL MILLS AND BRIGHT COLORS. THIS COMES THROUGH IN OUR CLOTHES EVEN WHEN IT’S NOT INTENTIONAL. THAT IS WHY WE BELIEVE THERE ARE SO MANY SPANISH BRANDS DOING SO WELL IN CHILDREN’S FASHION.”
“IN EVERYTHING WE DO, WE BELIEVE THAT LESS IS MORE. HOWEVER, IT IS NOT DEFINED BY WHAT IS LACKING BUT BY THE WILL TO ENRICH AND VALUE WHAT IS PRESENT.” —MARCEL VIVES, MANAGER, MON MARCEL BARCELONA
“OUR PASSION IS CHILDREN. OUR COLLECTIONS ARE INSPIRED BY THEM. WE WORK ON OUR COLLECTIONS THINKING ABOUT THEM, THEIR STORIES AND THEIR FANTASY WORLD.” —LETICIA CAPAPEY, FOUNDER AND DESIGNER, MINABAY KIDS
westernchief.com | #westernchief sales@washingtonshoe.com | 1-800-925-7463
EUROPEAN TREND REPORT FALL ’17
LOUD & CLEAR HOP ACROSS THE pond, and you won’t find a dull moment in next season’s fall fashion repertoire. European trade shows, including Playtime Paris, Pitti Immagine Bimbo, Bubble London and FIMI, were brimming with personality from exciting color treatments to eye-catching designs gleaned from the adult catwalks of late. “The ‘Gucci-fication’ of kids’ clothing was prevalent among designers, creating fanciful designs filled with opulent embroideries and deeper, richer hues on luxe materials,” reports Ania Witkowski, trend editor at Fashion Snoops. “We’re seeing a move away from Scandinavian minimalism toward more playful, decadent designs that update everyday pieces.”
DOUBLE TIME What’s black, white and rad all over? The graphic fall prints that prove two-tone is anything but boring. Collections like Barcarola and Tartaleta showcased a variety of blackand-white looks with bold stripes, polka dots, houndstooth and everything in between. The versatile yet statementmaking trend also bodes well for transitional season wear —a buyer’s delight in today’s unpredictable climate.
8
E A R N S H AW S . C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
STAR STRUCK Looking back at the womenswear runways of 2016, high-shine finishes like metallic sequins, paillettes and mosaics of tiny mirrors gave the catwalk some intergalactic radiance that consequently has trickled down to the littler styles of late. Labels like Balenciaga, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino, just to name a few, reflected this celestial trend for adults and now children’s designers have interpreted it with striking metallics, magnified star prints and touches of galaxy-inspired glitter.
CND by Cóndor
Barcarola
N+V
TULLE TAKEOVER Draped in magic and decorations borrowed from haute couture, European designers used feminine fabrics like chiffon, organza, tulle and lace to make little dreams come true. “It’s a fantasy world filled with enchanted sparkle,” describes Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine. “Collections inspired by surreal nature allow for fantasy and creativity to blend into one.” Oca-Loca
NEW YORK
Ilene Oren & Company
LOS ANGELES Hatched Showroom
Lea Lelo
DALLAS The Klein Group
ATLANTA The Klein Group
GARAGE BAND Leather, studs and appliqué details rocked the Euro fashion scene with a moto grunge vibe that continues to prevail in adult fashion. From chokers and combat boots to metallic hardware and graphic tees, designers sharpened their “edge” with angsty accents that tweens in particular will love. Mayoral
Fun & Fun
www.ActiveMOD.com
EUROPEAN TREND REPORT FALL ’17 Yclù
Tuc Tuc
POP ART
FUR FRENZY
The element of surprise was the name of the game for many European designers, drawing inspiration from contemporary pop art. This concept reigned in adult fashion the past few seasons but in a more risqué form (think: Alexander Wang’s exotic dancer sweatshirt or Moschino’s smoking lips print). For little ones, the European runways brought fun graphics of oversized telephones and fuzzy flower power for a refreshing dose of artsy pizzazz.
Be it real or faux, just a touch of fur is enough to please come Fall ’17. From pompom beanies to detachable collars, kids only need a hint of the evergreen trend to be cozy yet whimsical. Designers like Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors and Calvin Klein dabbled with fur in Fall ’16—and we’re not just talking boring brown-bear hues. Think eye-catching color like the candy pink fur jacket from J.Crew or elegant floral numbers from Michael Kors.
José Varón
Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada
ebf^Ziie^
ppp'ebf^Ziie^'\hf
BY KRISTIN YOUNG
Foot Notes Chief Operating Officer Michael M. Langfitt plots Trimfoot’s growth.
HEN YOU CONSIDER the average lifespan of a company is 10 years, according to some studies, Trimfoot’s 104 years in business is nothing less than remarkable. Not many companies can boast membership in the century club, and the firm’s longevity was a huge selling point for Michael M. Langfitt when he decided to become chief operating officer last September. Originally founded in 1913 as Wizard Lightfoot & Appliance Co., in St. Louis, the company changed its name to Trimfoot in 1927 and began producing and selling children’s shoes under the brand Baby Deer in 1938. “It was a high-quality line,” Langfitt relays. Back then, he says, training was extensive. Salespeople were required to study the bones of a child’s foot, taught how to specifically sell baby shoes and even became a certified Trimfoot shoe-fitter—metal badge and all. “Every department store wanted it, every shoe store wanted it, every mom-and-pop store wanted it. They knew it by name.” In the ’40s, Trimfoot moved its headquarters to Farmington, Mo. Although its factory has long closed in favor of overseas production,
12
E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
Trimfoot’s 70 employees still provide footwear for infants and children as well as for women and dance markets. In addition to Baby Deer, children’s lines include Wee Kids, Natural Steps, Jessica Simpson, Dance Class, School Issue, Lindsay Phillips and Character License. The company also acts as a distributor for Ralph Lauren, Feiyue, Disney, DC Comics and Marvel. Price points are moderate, ranging from $19.99 to $79.99 at retail. Six months ago, Joe H. Scott Sr., previously a 50-percent owner and silent partner, acquired 100 percent and controlling interest of the business and shook up the top ranks. Scott tapped Langfitt, an executive with more than 35 years >33
Photo: Laura Aldridge
WINTER 2017 • New York • New England • Pennsylvania 212-564-5100 The Rose Garden customercareattherosegardenny.com • Atlanta 404-524-8897 janet@janethunterhawkins.com • Chicago 312-397-0399 eltekids@prodigy.net • Los Angeles & Dallas 213-622-9879 rebershoff@sbcglobal.net
BACK-TO-SCHOOL BUYS T h e u l t i m a t e g u i d e t o t h e c o o l k i d ’s m i n d . Skip Hop Zoo Lunchies Available in 25 friendly characters, these smiling lunchboxes are roomy and insulated to keep food and drinks cold, plus an inside mesh pocket can hold lunch money, an ice pack or utensils. All lunchboxes are phthalatefree and measure 9l x 3.25w x 7.5h inches.
iDecoz Phone Mirrors Behold the key to the perfect selfie. This trendy mirror sticks to the back of a tween’s cellphone for easy beautification before snapping the perfect shot. Mirrors come in a variety of colors including feminine favorites like pink, gold and silver. Even adults are loving this easy way to check yourself out on-the-go. Just ask celebs like Bethenny Frankel, Ramona Singer and Molly Sims.
Fidget Cubes Weighing approximately 4.1 ounces and 1.3 cubic inches, the original Fidget Cube by Antsy Labs (not to mention the multitude of copycat versions) is available in several color schemes with each side of the block sporting a different stress-fighting mechanism. Whether it be the clickable buttons, movable joystick, spinning dial, rolling gears, rubbing surface or flickable switch, studies indicate that these simple fidgeting motions will help maintain focus in kids and adults alike.
Fluf Snack Pack Meet a collection of easyto-use, reusable sandwich bags made from certified-organic cotton that is preshrunk and fully machine washable. Each whimsical little pack is lined with rinsable, food-safe material that includes Velcro closures for small hands.
Pop Sockets Marketed as “a little piece of magic for your phone,” the Pop Socket is a mobile accessory that attaches to the back of a cellphone and expands to offer a broad range of functions including a grip, a stand or a headset management system. Offered in eye-catching styles from marbled paint to donut graphics, Pop Sockets will be the must-have buy for school-bound cool kids.
Blankie Tails Kids won’t want to cuddle up with any old blanket after being exposed to the cozy craze of Blankie Tails—“the original mermaid and shark blanket.” Exploding in popularity with more than 850,000 units sold to date, Blankie Tails is rolling out several new colors and styles for retail in 2017. The themed blankets come in four sizes (fit for the whole family)—69" adult, 56" kids, 37" toddler and 18"doll.
14
E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
Mad Pax Backpacks With the children of celeb parents like Kate Hudson, Jennifer Garner and Will Smith rocking the hottest Mad Pax looks, it’s no wonder other little ones will want to follow suit in the same signature styles bursting with personality. According to brand executives, Mad Pax represents the evolution of the backpack with 3-D bag and accessory designs that are “two parts funk, a pound of punk and a dash of double dare.” Participating retailers span the European and U.S. markets.
Whiffer Sniffers Have you caught a whiff of these collectible plush characters yet? Each character’s scent matches its appearance with new styles released every few months. All fragrances are produced in the U.S. with products guaranteed to sustain their yummy scent for at least a year. Put them by your register, and kids will not be able to resist the add-on sale whether they want to collect ’em, give ’em or trade ’em.
Bixbee Backpacks As a brand that believes every child deserves the tools to learn, Bixbee produces trendy bags on the pact of donating one schoolbag filled with supplies akin to every backpack purchase. Check out bestselling styles for 2017 like the new Rocketflyer (shown on right).
Money Monsters Whether it be storage for a child’s lunch money, cell phone or colored pencils, these vinyl glitter monsters are the answer for trend-right school supplies. Available in a variety of different sizes from small shoulder bags to coin purses, these googley-eyed, zipper-mouth characters are sure to please kids’ quest for style and parents’ need for quality come back-to-school season.
RE T A I L R E P O R T
School of Thought BACK- TO - SCHOOL IS AN OPPORTUNITY TO CONNECT WITH CUSTOMERS, INTRODUCE INVENTORY AND BUMP UP BOTTOM LINES. BY KRISTIN YOUNG
L
AST YEAR, BACK-TO-SCHOOL spending was notable for a number of reasons. While online shopping and social media continued to influence the way people shop—62 percent of consumers researched online before making a purchase, according to the consulting firm Deloitte—in-store shopping continued to dominate the back-to-school season with two-thirds of the budget for clothing and school supplies spent in a physical store. Mirroring this trend, Melody Joy Snelen, co-owner of Kyds Children’s Boutique in Neptune Beach, Fla., along with her sister Rachel Crismond, says her website serves to inform customers. However, when it comes to purchasing, they’d rather do it in person. “Pictures don’t do the products justice,” she explains. “Things often don’t fit, and there’s variety of selection. We had a little 8-year-old girl this week who was more of a size 6 or 7. Not to mention, she enjoyed trying on a number of outfits. It’s the whole experience that you can’t get online.” For this year’s back-to-school season, Kyds is betting on washed denim, graphic tees and trucker hats by brands like Hudson Jeans and DL 1961 for boys. For girls, PPLA’s soft T-shirts and leggings and Kenneth Cole gladiator sandals are expected to do well, along with crystal headbands with pompoms. “It sets the stage for the whole year,” says Snelen. “Making a good (sartorial) statement helps boost their self-esteem and helps them with school.” Customers have been “stocking up” rather than “making do,”
16
E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
according to the National Retail Federation. In its annual backto-school survey in 2016, the NRF reported that families with children in grades kindergarten through 12 planned to spend an average of $673.57 on apparel, up 9.6 percent from last year and a total of 54.8 percent over the past 10 years. That’s a significant expenditure, considering that American consumers expected to spend only a few hundred dollars more ($935.58) during the holidays in 2016. To be sure, some retailers plan to keep a close eye on inventory levels as more families spread their shopping more evenly throughout the year. “Last year was strange,” says Melody Ma, owner of Purple Mango in Houston. “During back-to-school, people held back, and I’m still puzzled.” As a result, Ma is exercising more caution this year and adjusting her buys. And while it is true families are still looking for bargains, it appears that customers are less concerned with the economy than in the recent past. Overall, fashion-foward items are expected to carry retailers through the season. “With the huge success of Supreme and the Yeezy collections, to name a few, boyswear will look to key items such as the relaxed tapered jogger, tracksuit and the ongoing highly successful commercial item, the bomber jacket,” says Erin Rechner, senior editor of kidswear for the trend forecasting firm WGSN. “Girls’ items are all about texture. Core bestsellers such as the moto jacket, bomber jacket and sweatshirt are updated with fur and high-pile materials.” Children return to school in the Atlanta area as early as >32
Louis Louise zip-up sweatshirt
TREND WATCH
Me Oui barrettes
Oh Baby! headband
Baby Bites sleeping sack
Flapdoodles dress
Native shoe
Kukukid pants
Frenchie Mini Couture one-piece Raspberry Plum sweater
Parkland backpack
Star Crossed SEEING STARS? It’s not just you. As Fall ’17 collections roll out, buyers are finding themselves stargazing at the influx of celestial-themed couture. A trickledown from womenswear labels like Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Dior, lunar lovin’ is trending sky-high with stars, planets and moonbeams on everything from jackets to backpacks. The oversized star print is particularly a go-to for kids with such simplistic and unisex appeal. Get ready to buy a little extra this season—extraterrestrial, that is. —Emily Beckman
18
E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
20
From left to right: Hunter, 6, wears Babe & Tess scarf (on head), Charm It! necklace, Magpie coat, Art & Eden dress; Hayden, 5, wears Nice Things scarf, Charm It! necklace, Tia Cibani dress, Pink Chicken pants.
From left to right: Bianca, 9, wears Boboli crew-neck sweatshirt, Maria Casero dress, Tocotó Vintage pants, Happy Socks socks, Dr. Martens shoes; Herbert, 2, wears Tia Cibani sweatshirt, Frenchie Mini Couture shirt, Mademoiselle à Soho pants, Happy Socks socks, Baby Deer shoes, Catya scarf (used as dog leash); Constantina, 6, wears Deux Par Deux hat, Tocotó Vintage scarf, SemSem jacket, Eddie Pen dress, Toes & Bows leggings, Bearpaw shoes; Andalucia, 11, wears Elisa B. shirt, Frenchie MIni Couture skirt, Limeapple leggings, Dr. Martens boots.
22 22
24
This page (left to right): Andalucia wears Mini Molly sweater, Mia New York shirt (worn underneath sweater), Puma pants; Constantina wears River & Rosy headband, Hannah Banana shirt, E-Land Kids long-sleeve shirt (worn underneath), Creamie pants; Bianca wears Andy & Evan sweater vest, E-Land Kids long-sleeve shirt (underneath vest), CPC Childrenswear skirt. Opposite page: Hayden wears Bows Arts headband, Barque jacket, Deux Par Deux dress, Natural Steps shoes; Hunter wears Bows Arts headband, Sonatina scarf (being held), Andy & Evan jacket, Frenchie MIni Couture dress, Nice Things leggings, Polo Ralph Lauren shoes.
From left to right: August, 3, wears Imps & Elfs sweater, Blade & Rose long-sleeve shirt (worn underneath), E-Land Kids pants; Mae, 9, wears Catya hat, Tia Cibani necklace, Mia New York coat, Eddie Pen shirt, Frenchie Mini Couture skirt, Puma pants; Leo, 7, wears Dal Lago jacket, Barque vest, Nukutavake long-sleeve polo, Watchitude watch, Dal Lago pants. 26 26
28 28
From left to right: August wears Siaomimi Play shirt with cape, Puma pants; Leo wears Ep hat, Boboli sweater, RosĂŠ Pistol shirt (worn underneath), Jack Thomas pants. Opposite page: Herbert wears Art & Eden sweatshirt, Andy & Evan shirt (worn underneath), Hoonana pants; Andalucia wears Love & Sunflowers jumpsuit, Lily Nily bracelets, Dr. Martens shoes. Hair and makeup: Abigail Pilcher; styling assistant: Madison Donaldson.
021617_Earnshaws_ThirdVertical_3.pdf 1 2/16/2017 11:43:58 AM
UP CLOSE
Viva Vida FOOTWEAR COMPANY VIDA KIDS has a clear strategy when first meeting with a prospective licensee: “Both sides need to be humble,” explains Brian McManus, executive vice president and general manager of the New York-based licensor with seven childrenswear brands. “When you go into any conversation (and sometimes we think we know what a brand needs), we have to be humble enough to ask questions and not assume anything.” Vida Kids has been working with childrenswear brands for 17 years and its portfolio now includes Carter’s, Oshkosh B’Gosh, Hanna Andersson, JambuKD, M.A.P. and Step & Stride. “Really if you look at most businesses, there are two ways of doing things: service and price,” McManus says. “Way back when, when people started competing on price, we decided to focus on serving the customer.” McManus cited Carter’s as one example of service. Vida Kids’ challenge was to create footwear that tapped into the brand’s emotional connection with the consumer while aiding its retail clients. Limiting liabilities was one effective game plan. “We can house a lot of shoes in our warehouse,” McManus says. “If a retailer thinks they might need 10,000 pairs, but they only want 5,000 for the first delivery, we’ll take all the pairs up front. If sales exceed their expectations, we can ship right away. We can also protect them on the downside.
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
30
E A R N S H AW S . C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
We have a lot of relationships to liquidate goods. So it’s about service.” For Hanna Andersson, a brand that specializes in soft materials and heirloom quality, service meant inserting memory foam into its footwear to further emphasize comfort. Conversely, childrenswear brands come to Vida Kids for its expertise in shoe-making, ranging from molds and cutting to sizing and safety. “How many things can you be an expert in?” McManus asks. “It takes years to develop an expertise. So that helps you from a competitive advantage.” Vida Kids’ most valuable asset just may be its exposure to consumer behavior and trends at varied levels of the market. “You learn what has sold at the higher-end and as you move it down to the middle market, you can gain more volume,” he explains. “At that level, you can’t guess.” For fall, McManus says boots are continuing their reign, specifically toddler boots and novelty boots. In girls’, anything that shines is expected to ring the registers while, in boys’, it’s all about the third color on athletic styles. “If you are a company willing to pay attention to where the market is going and try to be there when the market arrives, you have a better opportunity,” McManus says. “If you’re trying to hold onto the way you’ve done things in the past, that’s not so good. At some point you can get stuck with the buggy whips. We don’t want to be that guy.” —Kristin Young
KIDSWORLD MARKET MARCH 22-25 AUGUST 9-12
EVERYTHING FOR TOTS, TEENS, AND IN BETWEEN
D RE SS : H A N N A H B ANANA H E A D B A N D : C H O OZE
continued from page 16 August so the summer is all about stocking “It’s great to manage inventory, but having up on gear, such as backpacks customized a relationship with our customer is sinwith monograms, and clothing for that gularly the most important thing to me.” first-day-of-school photo op. “I’ve seen Other stores view back-to-school as an an increase in traffic,” notes Vicki Davis, invaluable time to boost profits. Rachel who owns the Childrens [sic] Shop, along Uchitel, owner of Wyatt Lily in Scarsdale, with her partner Karla Smith. “I think the N.Y., shops well-known names like Wildfox economy has changed for the better, and and So Nikki but hones in on items that we’re seeing our neighborhood build back may be overlooked by bigger stores. She’ll up. I think that people are spending a little take a plain jean jacket, for example, and bit more and one of their priorities is their customize it with patches and pins. She children.” School motifs such as pencil also developed her own line called Wyatt P R I S SY F E R L I TO, OW N E R , patterns, ABC 123 graphics, bookworms, Lily NYC to lure customers to the store. LITTLE BAMBOLINA BOUTIQUE chalkboards and apples are all popular. As “As a retailer you’re always looking for in years past, Davis plans to use Instagram ways to make a profit,” she says. “I’m and Facebook to preview new looks and drive traffic to the store. optimistic. I’m the owner, and I truly believe that if you build For some stores, back-to-school represents a valuable opporit, they will come.” tunity to refresh the store and introduce the customer to new Lunchboxes, backpacks and neutral polos perform well at Little apparel, gifts, accessories and toys. “I love the change,” says Joanne Bambolina Boutique in Shreveport, La. Despite the temperate Chamberlain Krakora, owner of Little Threads in Chicago. “I weather in the South, coats and sweaters are also expected to love resetting the shop and always look at it as an opportunity.” fly off the shelves. “Even though it’s hot, my customers know Because of the area’s Catholic schools, which require students that by the time it gets cold, we’ll be sold out,” says owner Prissy to wear uniforms, Krakora says the boutique does well with Ferlito. “If you know your merchandise, know your customer, give basics such as white, navy and beige socks, belts and T-shirts. j^[c ]eeZ i[hl_Y[ WdZ ]eeZ fheZkYj" oek m_bb Ze m[bb"È i^[ iWoi$
“IF YOU KNOW YOUR MERCHANDISE, KNOW YOUR CUSTOMER, GIVE THEM GOOD SERVICE AND GOOD PRODUCT, YOU WILL DO WELL.”
CHILDREN’S CLUB New York City March 5-7
Corporate Mark Zelen, 212-216-6125 1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018
Caribbean/Latin America/South Florida
International
Mid Atlantic
Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008
Mark Wolbransky 215-364-7906
Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-599-8717
Midwest Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 847-607-8543
North East Bill and Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999
South East
West Coast
Richard Rubin 404-577-4383
Teresa Stephen 213-623-8155
Texas/South West
Western Canada
Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446
Jeff Swartz 604-681-1719
children’s world Apparel | Accessories | Shoes | Gifts Décor | Maternity | Juvenile Products
continued from page 12
of experience under his belt with stints at Payless ShoeSource, Gap and Target, to streamline the company’s processes, kick up the level of service and make footwear more compelling, thereby increasing the products’ value. Langfitt sat down with Earnshaw’s to discuss Trimfoot’s best avenues for growth, tapping into tenured employees and their sense of pride and why he loves coming to work in the morning.
I understand you read article in this magazine about a 100-year-old business positioning itself as a startup, and it struck you. Is that your plan for Trimfoot? Yes. The company was based on being the industry leader in infants and then eventually in the children’s business. We were the first in many areas. For example, we were the originators and innovators of the clear see-through clamshell that we developed with the Monsanto Company.
b b b What do you love most about footwear? I’m a merchant at heart, and that’s how I approach everything. I ask myself, ‘how would retailers interpret this? How can they maximize sales? What do we need to do to make their jobs even simpler?’ What were some of the earliest lessons you learned in the footwear business? It’s a whole different mindset. There are, on an athletic shoe, up to 100 or more individual pieces, and that becomes mindboggling. Understanding how one change impacts somebody’s comfort, on which they’re going to put an unbelievable amount of pressure and force—it’s a science, and it’s an art. Is children’s footwear more challenging than adult footwear? Number one, they’re the one customer who can’t tell you if the shoe fits or how it feels or if they like it. Number two, the styles have to be cute because typically a mom, grandma, grandparent, aunt or relative is buying the product. It also has to be functional because, at the early stages of a child’s life, protecting their feet is tremendously important. Function is more important than fashion, but when you can combine fashion and function, then you’re doing great.
CHAT ROOM Who is your favorite historical character, and why? General Colin Powell. I don’t have a military background, but I have heard him speak on several occasions. I’ve read his books and seen his presentation called “A Leadership Primer.” Although it is clearly military-based, he’s got great suggestions for business. One of his quotes I like is, “Don’t be afraid to challenge the pros, even in their own backyard.”
PHOTO: Dondolo
Join Us in April Children’s World at April Atlanta Apparel
What’s on our reading list? My daughter is a library professional and my wife is a consumer of books. I read everything online. I read periodicals, anything that has to do with leadership, culture change, team building or business growth… and sports.
NEW DATE PATTERN SHOWROOMS
April 5– 9, 2017 Wednesday – Sunday TEMPORARIES
April 5 – 8, 2017
What would people be surprised to learn about you? People who know me know this already. People who don’t know me may not have any clue. I have ridden a bicycle almost all the way across the United States, one state at a time. I have two or three states still left on the East Coast. There’s nothing more eye-opening than noticing every little thing you’re passing. It’s a great way to think.
Ă Ā ā Ĉ ƫ ƫ đ ƫ E A R N S H AW S . C O M
Wednesday – Saturday
Register Today AmericasMart.com/ChildrensWorld
800.ATL.MART
33
|
© 2017 AMC, Inc.
We were the first company to offer Disney-licensed products in the world because the original owner, J.B. Reinhard Sr., and Walt Disney were close personal friends as they were both from Missouri. There were a lot of firsts. We were the Nike of the day, if you will. Would like to get back to being a company of firsts? With that heritage, yes. We’ve created a new logo. Beneath that logo, we have a mission statement: style, heritage and durability. That speaks not only to the company and to what we believe in and is our mantra, but it also speaks to the products that we have continually provided to our cli-
IN A LONG-ESTABLISHED BUSINESS, THERE’S A TREMENDOUS SENSE OF PRIDE. IF YOU CAN TAP INTO THAT, YOU CAN GET EVERYBODY ROWING IN THE SAME DIRECTION. ents. We don’t want to be, and we never will be, the cheapest resource. We want to be the smartest resource. What are the challenges of turning a 104-year-old company into a startup again? With that comes both good news and bad news. Some of it is baggage. You’ve got people that are extremely tenured and have have done it one way so long that when you begin to implement change, it’s not accepted universally. That’s a cultural issue. But in a long-established business, there’s a tremendous sense of pride. If you can tap into that, you can get everybody rowing in the same direction. What challenges are childrenswear companies facing right now? The ongoing conversation ranges from possible political changes and tariffs to import taxation and the relationship with the Far East. When you realize how much the United States imports from China, as an example, we’re really not in a position to make them unhappy.
34
E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
How are you navigating the rapidly changing retail landscape? For years, the country has been over-retailed. Right now we’re seeing the decline of malls, mergers of multiple department stores and a change in consumer selling patterns. Direct-to-consumer is no longer a desire, it’s an expectation. People want instant gratification, and they want to shop wherever they are—at a ballgame with their portable devices or at home with an iPad or a laptop. The best retailers in the world provide a highquality experience. You have mere seconds to establish a rapport with the customer and build trust. But once you do, you’ve got them for life.
www.cooliessurf.com (310)546-1949 | follow us at @coolie_surf
What tips the scales in terms of finding the right licensing partner? Certainly if you’re aligned on goals, it makes the partnership easier and much more enjoyable. However, I think you can have a business relationship without it. It’s not all perfectly balanced, and it’s not all 100 percent of the time. At the end of the day, if we can come to your aid and you can come to our aid, it’s a good alliance. Your internal three-word mission statement is “responsive, opportunistic and intentional.” What do those words mean to Trimfoot? ‘Responsive’ means we can’t rest on our laurels. We have to take initiative, and we have to do it now. ‘Opportunistic’ is exactly what it means: If there is an opportunity—even though we may not be completely ready—we’ll take a fly at it. ‘Intentional’ means don’t go into it halfway. I’m an all-in or all-out kind of person. What do you envision for the company long-term? Located squarely in Farmington, but with a footprint around the entire country (and hopefully the world). I have a lot of experience south of the border, and I think there’s a tremendous opportunity for us. Our [third party] logistics business—we ship shoes for other people—is also a huge growth potential for us. We’ve got the capacity to manage sourcing, inventory and freight-forwarding. The more the business grows to direct-to-consumer, that demand is going to increase as well. What’s a typical day at the office? There’s no such thing as a typical day. For some people it’s terrifying, for me it’s like mother’s milk. It’s what I thrive on. I love the pace. I love the challenge. Former bosses and peers have referred to me in the past as a fkppb[ cWij[h$
Ă Ā ā Ĉ ƫ ƫ đ ƫ E A R N S H AW S . C O M
35
SHELF HELP
help my customer find the perfect outfit or gift. I get daily calls from customers asking me to put aside a particular item of clothing or to pick out a birthday gift. Then, I’ll make sure to have it packaged and ready to go when they come in the store. We also specialize in customized party favors and special camp orders. What were your bestselling brands or styles of 2016? Our bestselling brands include Splendid for baby, Imoga and T2 Love for girls and DL1961 and Johnnie-O for boys. In terms of trends, novelty does really well—especially emojis. Any surprises in 2016? We were surprised by the sales of PopSockets, Grab & Go Pony Tubes and Crazy Aaron’s Thinking Putty—we can’t keep them in stock! What is your main goal for 2017? Staying organized between my two stores; my inventory changes fast so I’ll need to stay on top of what is stocked in both stores.
Groove Westport, Connecticut
E
NTREPRENEUR AND MOM-of-three, Corri Neckritz had a good idea, so she took it all the way to the bank—literally. Meet Groove: a one-stop shop of apparel and gifts for teens, kids and even babies. The store was brought to life after Neckritz represented several children’s brands out of her home and through road shows starting in 2007. She eventually outgrew the space and opened her first storefront in 2012. Last fall, she moved to her current Westport flagship store in a vacant bank. The 3,400-square-foot space is complete with the old bank’s vault that Neckritz has turned into a sweets room with candy “by the pound” and candy-themed gifts. The steel doors and frames all remain original to the building with colorful décor galore. After such success, Neckritz launched a second location this month in New Canaan, Conn. “The biggest challenge for me right now is opening our new store in New Canaan while servicing my existing customers in our flagship Westport store,” says Neckritz. “It’s been a busy six months to say the least!” —Emily Beckman What sets your store apart from the competition? My customer service. I go the extra mile as a personal shopper to
36
E A R N S H AW S .C O M ƫ đ ƫ ƫ Ă Ā ā Ĉ
What is important to keep in mind during the back-toschool buy? I want Groove to be a one-stop shop for everything back-to-school. We will have everything from unique backpacks, pencil cases, lunch and snack bags to that perfect first day of school outfit. Groove will be fully stocked on all the basics ( jeans, leggings, tops). I like to keep in mind that the weather is still warm in our area around Labor Day so while customers are ready to buy a new outfit, they may not be ready for sweater weather. What do you foresee as trendy for back-to-school in Fall ’17? I’ve seen a lot of metallics and embroidery. I will offer this a bit to be on trend but not in an overkill type of way. What’s the No. 1 back-to-school item a retailer should carry? Backpacks. Most children really want that special “new” bag for back-to-school. Any tips on merchandising back-to-school items? Outfits. Utilize mannequins so people can see the look. I put it all together so people don’t need to think about it. What is your social media strategy? I use social media to showcase new arrivals and trends. I also love to post pictures from my happy customers—they love sending me pictures from vacations or a fun outfit for a regular school day. How do you compete with the growing online market? I have a niche where I sell on-trend clothing and unique gifts equally. I provide gift-wrapping and excellent customer service which resonates with my customers and keeps them shopping on a regular basis.
FALL 2017
CHILDREN’S CLUB New York City March 5-7
Corporate
Mark Zelen 212-216-6125 1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018
Caribbean/ Latin America/ South Florida
Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-599-8717
International
Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008
Mid Atlantic
Mark Wolbransky 215-364-7906
Midwest
Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 847-607-8543
North East
Bill and Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999
South East
Richard Rubin 404-577-4383
Texas/South West
Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446
West Coast
Teresa Stephen 213-623-8155
Western Canada Jeff Swartz 604-681-1719
CLOTHING FOR THEIR LITTLE WORLD