Earnshaw's |November/December 2019

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SPELLBOUND ENCHANTING STYLE STATEMENTS

2019 Earnie Award Winners Honoring Industry Icon Marilyn Klein Where the Stars Shop: Couture Kids




NOV/DEC 2019 CONTENTS

This page (left to right): Monroe wears butterfly top by Molo, The Middle Daughter striped dress and headpiece by Meri Meri; Lillian wears Oeuf sweater, Cosmosophie collar, skirt by Ujala and Ipanema sandals.

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

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EDITORIAL Lauren Parker Executive Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE

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Caroline Diaco VP/Group Publisher

DEPARTMENTS 4 Editor’s Note 5 Scene & Heard FEATURES 8 Lone Star Great From noted Texas retailer to legendary sales rep exec, Marilyn Klein, CEO of The Klein Group, has always put the needs of her customers first to come out ahead. By Emily Beckman 10 2019 Earnie Winners Recognizing excellence in design and retail across the children’s fashion market this year. By Emily Beckman and Lauren Parker FASHION 20 Sheer Bliss A transparent take on contemporary cuts. By Mariah Walker 26 Girls Just Want to Have Fun Subtlety takes a backseat to layered ’tude-infused trends from the decade of decadence—the ’80s. By Mariah Walker

6 What’s Selling 33 Be the Buyer 35 Behind the Seams 36 From the Archives On cover: Lillian wears Marais Sky top and Caffè D’orzo skirt (worn around neck). Photography by Paul Thorburn/ Stem Agency; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; hair and makeup by Yumi Kaizuka using Waleda Baby; styling assistance by Khalila White; photo assistance by Jaime Ellington.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Agnes Alves Controller 9Threads One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 Advertising@9Threads.com EditorialRequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation Office One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 Circulation@9Threads.com

Earnshaw’s Infants, GIrls and Boys wEar rEvIEw Issn 0161-2786 (UsPs-320-090) the business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by wainscot Media, 214 west 39th street, suite 205 new york, ny 10018. the publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Wainscot Media. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. no portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in Usa.

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FOR OVER 20 YEARS, AMERICA’S LEADING TRADESHOW FOR CHILDREN’S FASHION AND ACCESSORIES

FEBRUARY 11-13, 2020 JACOB JAVITS CENTER, NYC

W W W.CH I LD RENSFA SH I O N EVENTS .CO M @CH I LD R EN SCLU B #CH I LD R EN SCLU B


EDITOR’S NOTE

Deck the Malls IN THE AGE of Amazon, it takes more than a photo op with Old Saint Nick to lure shoppers out from beyond their devices, and this holiday season many malls have raised the bar. Efforts include character meet-and-greets, live performances, virtual reality experiences and picture-perfect displays that elevate the “let’s go shopping ” factor to Rudolph-worthy heights. Miami’s Aventura Mall, for example, has transformed itself into a winter wonderland—complete with virtual reality snow, thanks to an LED motion display that lets shoppers “feel” the flakes blow past their faces. If virtual snow isn’t your thing, then how about some genuine slime? The mall has teamed with Nickelodeon to introduce a 2,000-square-foot “Slime City,” an immersive experience that douses kids (and nostalgic parents) in the iconic green goo. (Guests can even customize their own shade of slime.) Being slimed can work up an appetite and shoppers can dine at one of the mall’s 50-plus eateries or just hit Candytopia, a confectionary experience that features a mini marshmallow theme park, colossal candy creations and unicorn pigs that’d make Willy Wonka proud. Of course, there’s photo ops with Santa (family pets welcomed, too), and this year the station is spiced up with glistening gift boxes stacked 60 feet high topped by a 19th century sleigh pulled by eight reindeer and a rotating 140-point Millennium Star—all topped off by a five-minute holiday light and sound show every hour. Centennial’s malls have also upped the traditional Santa photo experience this year, developing interactive holiday sets bolstered by an augmented reality app featuring holiday film classics like The Polar Express, Elf and A Christmas Story as well as popular children’s book, The Elf on the Shelf: A Christmas Tradition. At Hawthorn Mall in Vernon Hills, IL, for instance, Elf on the Shelf fans can wind through a wintery activation experience packed with selfie opportunities. Instagrammable moments include an oversized hot cocoa mug and an interactive sleigh. A name generator assigns each visitor an elf name and kids can deliver news as an anchor for the Reindeer News Network. There’s also a Meet the Pets area where guests “feed” a reindeer or a Saint Bernard pup—all this before a parting shot with Santa. Meanwhile, shoppers at the MainPlace Mall in Santa Ana, CA, can partake in A Christmas Story-themed world of ’40s-inspired food, appliances and furniture with the sound of an antique radio

playing in the background. Photo ops are available in front of Ralphie’s family home, inside the kitchen and (a paid option) alongside the movie’s iconic sexy leg lamp. An augmented reality app further enhances visitors’ experience, putting them in a pink bunny suit or letting them watch the Bumpuses’ bloodhounds knock over the table and steal the Christmas turkey—all before taking photos with Santa and exiting down the movie’s famous slide ramp. (Getting a tap on the forehead from Santa’s big black boot not included.) What’s more, the app allows shoppers to book a slot ahead of time as well as enroll in the center’s MyPerks loyalty program for additional specials. Indeed, experiential retail has become the shiny new toy to attract shoppers, which demands a year-round effort. This year’s Earnie Award winners for retail excellence—Target, Nordstrom and Everafter—all went the extra experiential mile that included new state-of-the-art shopping meccas, exclusive collaborations, in-store events, pop-ups, charity partnerships and innovative add-ons and services. At the same time, they upped the ante on making their e-commerce platforms as seamless as possible. Because this has never been an either/or scenario for consumers. They demand the luxury and convenience of both formats, and it’s those retailers who learn how to blend the best of both worlds— the old and the new, the nostalgic and the futuristic—who stand the best chance of survival. Kudos to their efforts, which serve as inspiration for us all. Congratulations to all 2019 Earnie winners (beginning on page 10). As we here at Earnshaw’s get set to close the books on another year of childrenswear industry coverage (that’s 103 years for anyone counting at home), the one constant is change. Retail formats, fashions and the companies that make and sell it all are in a constant state of flux. A glance at our From the Archives section (p. 36), this time featuring past Earnie Award winners and attendees spanning nearly 50 years, clearly confirms that. In fact, having access to our past issues—one of the coolest aspects of my job, by the way—serves an industry portal to where we’ve been and just how far we’ve come. (I mean, where else could you find a young Lindsay Lohan walking the runway of one of our Earnie Awards fashion shows?) The journey continues. Time marches on, and our industry’s next great challenges and changes are already on the horizon. Keeping track of the who, what, where, when and how to it all is a privilege.

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

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SC E N E & H E A R D

Slime Emporium Opens in NYC

SLIME HAS GONE from every little kid’s kitchen table to full-on experiential retail, as New York’s 8,000-square-foot Sloomoo Institute can attest. The mega slime emporium sells 250 pounds of slime a day and raked in seven figures during its first two weeks in business.

Elevating slime to high art, Sloomoo features a 150-foot DIY slime bar, video booths (visitors shoot their own stylized slime content), sculptural slime vats and immersive artist works. Adults even enjoy “Sip and Slime” and stress-relieving CBD evening events. Feeling festive, Sloomoo just added December’s holiday-themed fragrances like Christmas Tree, Peppermint and Eggnog to the DIY bar where consumers pick a slime base, scent, pigment and charms. More holiday-based slime themes are in the works. “Our hope is that people of all ages will come to Sloomoo Institute and delight and evoke their inner child,” says Co-founder Karen Robinovitz, who created the space with Sara Schiller, founder of MEET and co-founder of Wooster Collective; and Toni Ko, founder of NYX Cosmetics. And while Sloomoo isn’t wholesaling its slime, Robinovitz is open to partnerships.

Online Marketpla ce Faire L ets Retailers Shop the World CONSUMERS ARE INCREASINGLY demanding unique merchandise when they shop, but it can be a burden on retailers to constantly seek out and vet new brands. Online B2B marketplace Faire, which just landed a $1 billion valuation after recent Series D funding, looks to make that search easier and reliable with its curated wholesale marketplace of 7,000-plus vendors from 39 countries. “We heard from many retailers that sourcing from international makers allows them to carry a mix of merchandise from their community alongside bespoke products created by makers from around the world to surprise and delight their customers,” says Max Rhodes, co-founder and CEO of Faire. With a significant assortment of baby and kids’ apparel, accessories and décor items, retailers can narrow

searches with filters like eco-friendly, new, bestsellers, and “not on Amazon.” All order minimums are specified by each vendor, and with immediate deliveries, retailers can fill in merchandise holes, reorder top sellers or jump on hot trends quickly. “I sell in-season merchandise and have picked up new kids’ retailers through Faire,” says accessories designer Julie Mollo of her eponymous line. “It’s been a gamechanger for me, accounting for a fairly large percentage of my total sales this year.” Brands pay Faire a 25 percent commission on new orders and 15 percent for reorders, and retailers join for free. Faire notes bestsellers, offers suggestions and helps retailers sharpen future buys. The company also offers brands a toolkit of data insights, financial terms and logistics solutions, even matching them with best-fit retailers.

Dearfoams Returns to TV

RONALD REAGAN WAS in the White House, neon clothing was de rigueur and Dearfoams, America’s No. 1 slipper brand, was running a national ad campaign on TV. While trends have come, gone and come back again, Dearfoams is still the country’s top-selling slippers brand and it has returned to national TV with an ad campaign, “Together in Dearfoams,” airing on the Hallmark Channel Nov. 4-Dec. 19. The campaign demonstrates Dearfoams’ belief in the importance of family, especially during the holidays, while inspiring viewers to celebrate the comfort of home in slippers from the Dearfoams Holiday Family Collection. The ad, running in 15- and 30-second formats, illustrates that, at the end of the day, nothing feels better than the comfort of home. People young and old are shown enjoying heart-warming reunions as they cozy up around the holiday table, snuggle under a warm blanket or exchange presents with loved ones—all in cozy yet practical Dearfoams slippers featuring plush memory foam insoles and durable outsoles. Tricia Bouras, president of Dearfoams, a division of RG Barry, believes the timing, the product and Hallmark Channel (historically the leading network during the holidays) are perfectly aligned. “Not only is the Hallmark Channel the most watched during the holidays, it’s the number one channel for our consumer,” she says. “We know our consumer and it is the perfect fit for us this holiday season.” As part of the partnership between the two entities, Dearfoams is sponsoring the Hallmark Channel’s third annual Countdown to Christmas Fantasy Game. Each week players select seven movies they think will score the best on-air ratings from Hallmark Channel and Hallmark Movies & Mysteries. Prizes include cash awards and gift cards to Dearfoams.com. To further bring the campaign to life, Dearfoams has engaged with 30 influencers to share how their families come together this holiday season and invite consumers to do the same by posting photos and videos from their family gatherings at#Dearfoams and #TogetherInDearfoams.

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W H A T ’S S E L L I N G

Couture Kids Los Angeles, Miami, New York

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babies,” Olivarez says. “Overall, it’s growing our brand and international OT EVERY RETAILER can boast that Kanye West and reach.” Speaking of which, tourism and international visitors are up at daughter North fell asleep in the nursery showroom while all locations and Olivarez knows why: “It’s simple, no one else has the mom Kim Kardashian shopped, but at Couture Kids, it’s just selection we do.” —Lauren Parker another day at one of its seven boutiques located in Los Angeles, New York and Miami. Couture Kids is just what it sounds like: a playground Care to dish on any of your celebrity shopping preferences? I’ll only for the rich and famous to dress their kids in the latest designer duds and give away those that post on social media or shop with a film crew! We outfit them with luxury gear. really respect our clients’ privacy. The Kardashians are all regulars. We The first Couture Kids location opened in 2005 at the Plaza Hotel in knew about their pregnancies before anyone. We have a press highlight New York, whetting moms’ appetites for luxury brands, before expandon our Instagram Stories, like Cosmopolitan revealing how Kris Jenner ing to Los Angeles. The two-floor Couture Kids flagship opened four spent $10K on three Silver Cross prams for her grandkids at Couture years ago on West Hollywood’s trendy Robertson Boulevard, with 8,000 Kids on Robertson. There was also a big spike on the matching Fendi square feet of apparel, nursery furniture and juvenile products, includPink Monster stroller and diaper bag that Cardi B posted about twice. ing the country’s only Fendi in-store kids’ boutique and Stokke stroller showroom. The latest Couture Kids opened in 2018 at Miami’s Tony Bal What were some of your bestsellers this year? In California, Petit Harbour Shops. Bateau closed its Rodeo Drive store, so we’re definitely getting a nice bump Couture Kids gets mega-publicity from its celebrity moms on Instagram in demand. It’s always super comfy and great for layette. Moms turn to and, contrary to what some competitors might think, it’s all organic. designer brands like Fendi, Burberry “We never pay celebrities to shop or and Givenchy for that special event or support us,” says Bryan Olivarez, direccrib shoes as a keepsake. Girls either tor of marketing, public relations and love Tutu Du Monde’s cute poufy tutu e-commerce, attributing such loyalty princess dresses or go ‘rock star’ with to Couture Kids’ best-in-the-market Nununu. Dark and edgy has grown in selection and service. popularity, like the all-black Balmain Being a new mom can be overwhelmand Fendi tracksuits. Burberry’s new ing, which is why Couture Kids aims creative director has also created a huge to be a full-service personal concierge buzz with its edgier track suits. for its customers. That means handing them a checklist of what new moms What’s trending style-wise? Celebrities need, to creating a private profile so the and regular moms alike mix up designer stores can remind them when it’s time brands, but everyone’s loving Fendi for to, for example, upgrade to a bigger car its special collabs with artists/brands seat or stroller. Or, creating custom gift like Ariana Grande, Nicki Minaj and Fila. baskets ($200 to $2,000) according to Parents want mini mes! In addition, the gender, age and occasion followed by unicorn remains the one year-round pictures submitted for approval until theme with staying power, right down the customer is fully satisfied. Couture A Kardashian-approved selection of designer brands. to our unicorn greeting cards. Kids’ apparel selection (sizes newborn to 16) is a mix of designer and leading What about for moms who want to gear up in style? Many designer brands. Fendi, Burberry and Petit Bateau lead the way, while Nununu, brands have their own diaper bags, and all-time favorites are Burberry Billiblush and IKKS are also popular. Prices range from $40 to $6,000 and Fendi ($1,400 to $2,000). In strollers, the biggest 2019 trend is the while an average sale is $75 to $250. “We also do well with wooden toys travel stroller, like Stokke’s Xplory or Beat, which are add-ons to regular from Hape, plus accessories from Elegant Baby,” Olivarez says. strollers. But everyone’s talking about Cybex’s new motorized e-Priam— In addition to a star-worthy selection along with many exclusives, perfect for pushing up those Hollywood Hills! We’re the only official the stores have offered baby development and infant massage classes, Stokke shop-in-shop in the U.S., and we custom built a full-category anniversary events with branded giveaways and even a petting zoo. In shop-in-shop upstairs that looks exactly like Stokke in Europe. fact, the retailer just launched an exclusive Couture Kids Alpaca Wool plush in partnership with the rescue farm, Little Horse on the Prairie. A What’s been most challenging of late? We take training very seriously, portion of proceeds go toward clean water efforts in Peru and in support and while our staff is trained extensively on every single item we carry, of rescue animals. The launch event drew a huge crowd, as alpacas Fable it’s hard to keep up with it all. But it’s essential. and Whisper are true celebrities, Olivarez reports. Next up? At the Robertson store, the apothecary category will exWhere do you see the store in five years? We opened three new stores pand for 2020 beyond the trial phase. “We’re around the corner from a last year, with more in the works—we’re going global! hospital, so a lot of doctors recommend what to get for new moms and

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e a r n s h aw ’s h a l l o f fa m e :

M A R I LY N K L E I N

Lone Star Great

From noted Texas retailer to legendary sales rep exec, Marilyn Klein, CEO of The Klein Group, has always put the needs of her customers first in order to come out ahead. By Emily Beckman IT’S 1973, AND Marilyn Klein sits in her living room, surrounded by the gold-flecked wallpaper and red shag carpet of her Spanish mission-style home in Houston. Sorting through children’s clothing on makeshift displays, Klein smiles as she dutifully prepares for her local clientele of young mothers. Her husband, Denny, is at her side—as he will remain for the next 50 years and counting. He is Klein’s “numbers guy,” sweating the details of cash flow and inventory. With the help of her close friend Martha Oberman, Klein will sell her curated selection of post-season samples from the Dallas Market Center to neighbors in her own living room—at a time long before outlets, big box dealers and online behemoths ruled the retail landscape. Klein’s nascent business is gaining traction, and she has dreams of making it a lifelong career. Fast-forward to today: Klein sits at the helm of her expansive showroom in Dallas, aptly named The Klein Group. For nearly half a century, the seasoned retailer-turned-rep has weathered a turbulent industry, finding ways to adapt, survive and thrive. Along the way, she’s enjoyed a fulfilling personal life, blessed with three children and eight grandchildren. Klein is as talented as she is tenacious. She’s built successful retail and rep businesses through hard work and adhering to the Golden Rule that the customer comes first—always. Klein could call it a “successful” career and move on to full-time grammy duties. But at age 74, she shows no signs of slowing down or retiring from the industry she adores. She is the epitome of a “people person,” and her innate ability to make everyone feel like they are the most important person in the room has been key to The Klein Group’s near four decades of success. Klein’s customers are considered family, and maybe that’s why she has no intentions of leaving them any time soon. “Whether a retailer spends $500 or $500,000, they’re equally important to me,” Klein says. “I want every customer to feel like a guest in our ‘home.’” A far cry from the ’70s carpet and patterned wallpaper where it all began, The Klein Group’s 2,600-square-foot space in Dallas’ World Trade Center boasts nearly 25 lines of girls’ apparel and accessories spanning tot to tween. Popular lines include classics Hannah Banana, Baby Sara and Bari Lynn, which Klein has repped for years, to newer additions like Penelope Tree, Baby Noomie and Glossy Pops. Challenging Southern retailers’ traditional tastes, Klein has carved a niche in the market with a selection of edgier, trend-driven styles. “The beauty of the Klein Group is it’s a one-stop shop,” says Janet Finegold, co-owner of Kid Biz in Dallas, who has been a customer for decades. “I love the showroom’s contemporary assortment and how

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Klein will be the first to jump in and say something if there’s a new and great item I may have missed.” Snap Caps, a line of necklaces made from bottle caps, is an example of Klein’s keen eye for what’s new and soon-to-be big. The tween accessory’s founder, 15-year-old Maddie Bradshaw, appeared on Shark Tank in early 2012, reporting $1.6 million in sales. “In fact, $1.2 million of that income was sold by us,” Klein says. Klein’s dedication to her customers is unmatched. Described by Fred Schmidt, co-founder of Shade Critters, as “tenacious,” Klein approached the swimwear brand at its first trade show in 2016. Strongly encouraging Schmidt to allow The Klein Group to represent his line, the co-founder was sold immediately by her energy and expertise. “She doesn’t need to work another day, but she works harder than anyone I’ve met in this industry,” Schmidt says, adding he once offered Klein free tickets to the hit Broadway shosw Hamilton during Children’s Club and she still put business first. “She told me she couldn’t leave her booth,” Schmidt recalls. “And not because of an appointment, she just wanted to stay in case someone happened to stop by!” According to Finegold, The Klein Group’s entire team upholds her high standards for exceptional customer service. She cites a recent example of a team member coming to the rescue when Finegold needed a specific style, and the vendor couldn’t get it to her in time. “One of the reps gathered six of what I needed and brought the product right to my store!” she says. Dan Hakim, co-founder at Watchitude, repped by The Klein Group for nearly four years, says the service is unparalleled. “Marilyn’s knowledge of the industry and the trust and confidence retailers have in The Klein Group is really unavailable anywhere else,” he says. “She’s the top of the food chain, period.” So what does Klein attribute to her success? She humbly cites years of trial and error along with a couple of fortuitous elements. “In many cases, I’ve just been in the right place at the right time,” she says. “I’ve also learned to surround myself with great people—there’s no way I can take all the credit!” THE RETAILER DAYS Klein made the leap from selling off-price samples out of her living room to renting her first store in 1974. “It was the day a kid got bubble gum on my carpet,” she recalls. “I turned to my husband and said, ‘Okay, we need to open a store.’” Klein’s first location—a 500-square-foot former head shop in a touristy section of Houston—came with a startup incentive. The landlord


said: “If you take all of the psychedelic stuff off the windows and walls, I’ll give you six months’ free rent.” Sold! The store opened the day after Easter, the “worst possible day for retail,” according to Klein. Traffic was excruciatingly slow to start, but there were two patrons early on who were quite memorable. Klein recalls them as stereotypical “hippies” who wandered in and asked a curious amount of questions about the merchandise, before exiting without a purchase. “After they left, we joked they were probably disappointed because the psychedelic merchandise was gone and were just trying to be polite,” Klein says. Two weeks later, however, Ann Light and Sue Goldstein, authors of The Underground Shopper, a highly respected local guide to value shopping, stopped in to introduce themselves, revealing the two “hippies” had been sent on a mission to preview the store. “They apparently liked what they saw because The Underground Shopper was doing a spot on three different TV stations that week and wanted to borrow merchandise from us,” Klein says. “I said, ‘Sure! Take whatever the heck you want!’” The on-air publicity was invaluable, and within days Klein had a line around the block. (Partly because she could only fit 10 people in the micro-sized shop at a time.) “That’s when we realized we needed more stores,” she says. The business mushroomed to four locations as Klein culled post-season samples from not only Dallas market but Atlanta and Ohio (where Denny’s parents lived). Not long after Klein’s friend dropped out of the operation, Klein’s retail operation shifted to offering full-price, in-season merchandise and expanded to 10 locations across Texas, including Corpus Christi, Amarillo, Lubbock, Pasadena and six in Houston. It was during this retailer career stage that Klein learned the importance of finding the best people for her team. Scouting experienced buyers and other seasoned retail execs to manage her stores, Klein recalls one employee as particularly memorable. Ursel Simmons, a black woman who managed a local Gap, impressed Klein with her customer service so much that Klein recruited her to run her Pasadena store, the largest of the chain at 5,000 square feet. But this was the deep South and racism was still a major issue. Klein recalls a Pasadena business associate pulled her aside and asked, “Why are you giving a manager’s position to a black woman?” Her response: “Because she is the most qualified person for the job.” A week later, Simmons’ tires were slashed, which Klein suspects was due to the shopping center’s proximity to a Ku Klux Klan meeting spot a few blocks away. While this enraged Klein, she and her star manager refused to be intimidated. They continued to provide superior products and service for several more years, winning >34


t h e e a r n i e awa r d s

2019 Earnie Winners Excellence in design and retail across the children’s fashion industry.

COMPANY OF THE YEAR : ANGEL DEAR Oh, the Places You’ll Go!

CELEBRATING YET ANOTHER year of exponential growth, Angel Dear proves success comes from going the extra mile(s). Traveling to more than 30 trade shows each year, the brand added another handful of domestic and international markets in 2019. “Success comes from making the effort to stay in front of people,” says Kim Perrin, marketing director at Angel Dear. Nicknamed by fellow market goers the “queen of trade shows,” Perrin’s jam-packed travel schedule this year included children’s apparel and toy markets to gift shows and, most recently, talks of food expos. “I’m looking into exhibiting at a food expo that’s entirely organic,” she says. “It’ll be an easy way to stand out!” Organic is a new focus for Angel Dear, expanding its selection with more natural fibers for the eco-conscious consumer. In addition, the brand now exclusively uses recycled paper and soy ink for its printed materials. Perrin reports Spring ’20 bookings have doubled over last year with orders often including its new organic designs. Overall, Angel Dear reports a sales increase of 25 percent over 2018, having expanded its retailer portfolio to a wider range of boutiques, toy

NEW BRAND : LITTLE SLEEPIES Zipping Along

LITTLE SLEEPIES SLEEPWEAR prints are so adorable it’s a wonder kids wearing them go to sleep at all. But the prints have been secondary to the stretchy bamboo/spandex fabrication and unique zip-up design that helped Little Sleepies burst onto the scene in 2019. Founder Maradith Frenkel isn’t a childrenswear designer, but she was a sleep-deprived second-time mom working as a studio executive at Universal Pictures. She created the line starting with zip-up pajamas after too many late-night diaper changes struggling with snaps and buttons. In just a year and a half, Little Sleepies’ sales have taken off, selling out repeatedly. The brand launched with the Zippies and pajama sets up to 5T and has since added swaddle sets, infant gowns,

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stores and gift shops. Perrin says the boost mostly comes from specialty boutique business, which admires Angel Dear’s artistic sensibility at a great price point. Retailing from $13 swaddles and blankies to $50 knit take-me-home sets, the brand’s exclusive prints, hand-drawn by artists in Brooklyn, upstate New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco and United Kingdom, continue to be a success. “Our new avocado print was a real hit,” Perrin says. In fact, she says anything foodrelated—like its tacos and corn on the cob prints—sold well this year. Angel Dear’s commitment to partnering with its retailers in 2019 also spanned pop-up experiences with swag bags for shoppers, extra flexibility in its payment process and a revamped e-commerce. “We’re still heavily promoting the Angel Dear customer to shop local brick-and-mortar first and foremost,” Perrin affirms, noting inventory on its site is marked two to three points higher than retailers’ prices. “If a collection comes out in January, we won’t even add it to our site until at least March.” Perrin anticipates 2020 will be another monumental year for Angel Dear, hinting at many new initiatives that include fresh designs and celebrity collaborations. “Our strategy comes down to always being there for our customers,” she says. “I can’t say too much at this point, but it could very well be another hallmark year ahead.” —Emily Beckman

matching mom and dad sets, holiday collections and extended the kids’ sizing up to 10. “We’re continuing to expand the product line for 2020 with more adult styles and sizing,” Frenkel adds. Hollywood exec to mompreneur seems like quite a career leap, but Frenkel notes a surprising number of synergies. “Now I’m working with different artists, scheduling and planning, and predicting what the customer will want a year from now,” she says. “Just like I did in film development.” Wholesale business now accounts for 30 percent of sales, but Frenkel says direct to consumer (DTC) got the ball rolling. “It was all word of mouth, with people asking retailers if they carried the brand, driving stores to add it to their mix,” she says. And despite no publicist or gifting program, the brand found its way onto the three Kardashian sisters’ Instagram feeds, spiking demand. Frenkel has seen the light. “We created a private Little Sleepies VIPs Facebook group, where we share sneak peeks, behind the scenes images, conduct polls and get retailer and consumer product feedback and suggestions,” she says. “We screen everyone before they can join, and we’re up to 8,000 people now, not including my most vocal advisor: my five-year-old daughter.” —Lauren Parker


www.iloveplaytime.com

ECO-FRIENDLY : BURT’S BEES BABY

PREMIERE TRADE SHOWS FOR KIDS FASHION AND LIFEST YLE

illustration ana galvañ

BURT’S BEES BABY worker bees have been very busy in 2019. Originally launched with a narrow layette offering, the licensed collection produced by Ayablu now features infant and toddler apparel, burp cloths, bibs, mitts, accessories, bedding, pajamas, bath linens and the now-famous Beekeeper “wearable blanket” sleep sack. And while CEO Maria Asker reports sales spiked 20 to 25 percent year-over-year thanks, in part, to increasing awareness about eco-friendly concerns among consumers, the exec believes the business is still just getting started. Asker cites 2019 as the year Burt’s Bees Baby shifted from a pull strategy to a push one. “If we had any problems this year, it was keeping up with demand,” she says. “Our growth was to a level we hadn’t seen before.” The brand expanded into all Nordstrom doors plus launched with Dillard’s. Already strong with chains like Buy Buy Baby and Target, Asker still sees potential to expand its depth and breadth in those existing channels. Target, for example, has 1,800 doors but only carries Burt’s Bees Baby in 500 of them. The Beekeeper blanket, launched in 100 percent organic cotton, has been particularly instrumental to that growth. Next year, Ayablu will expand the collection to include a quilted version. And with a successful launch of booties already under its belt, Burt’s Bees Baby plans to expand into hosiery for 2020. On the apparel front, sets experienced a “huge volume,” as moms liked the easy options of cute rompers and voluminous bubble styles as hallmarks. Family collections were another popular trend, particularly holiday-themed matching pajamas. Asker cites Burt’s Bees Baby’s foundation, a sustainable, ecofriendly and GOTS-certified brand, as being near and dear to the hearts of consumers. It’s a story the company embraces and tells consumers, be it on its website, hang tags or packaging. For example, when it comes to primary fabrication, Burt’s Bees Baby uses 100 percent organic cotton, and its polyester is recycled down to the spandex elastane in its leggings. Looking ahead to 2020, Burt’s Bees Baby has big plans for growth, one of which involves thinking small. Believing more people are shopping local, the company will aggressively target independent retailers. It’s now up to four sales reps on that effort with plans of more hires going forward. “It’s all about staying ahead of where there’s opportunity,” Asker says. “And that comes with taking one well-calculated step at a time.” —L.P.

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SPECIAL OCCASION : LUNA LUNA COLLECTION

FOOTWEAR : VANS

HEIDI MARIA SCHWARCK, founder and creative director of Luna Luna Collection, may hail from the fairy tale kingdom of Denmark, land of Hans Christian Andersen, but her company’s 50 percent growth this year proves she knows today’s princesses come from a totally new tribe. “I want every girl to find her inner princess, but in 2019 that princess needs to be badass,” Schwarck says. “She’s not on a throne, and she’s definitely not waiting for the prince to come find her!” Luna Luna’s assortment of ethereal dresses is still very much grandmother-approved but has toned down its over-the-top costume-like details to accommodate the edgier demands of today’s consumers. Schwarck says sweet-yet-sassy layering was a home run this year, mentioning the brand’s stretch imitation suede biker jacket as a top seller. Even its signature “fairy dress,” aptly named for the wings on the back, “exploded” in more sophisticated, muted hues, while a tulle mesh ensemble was enlivened with an embroidered unicorn. This year, Schwarck invested heavily in training her network of Indonesian beaders on couture techniques. But with most of them being young mothers in Indonesia, she implemented a program that allows the artisans to sew from home, giving them the ability to spend time with their own kids and take care of their elderly. Such commitment to beading has paid off, with sales of beaded velour styles taking center stage for Q4, notably in holiday colors like Scarlet Red. Maintaining exceptional value for such high-end designs (SRP $50-$80), Luna Luna adheres to strict European anti-pollution standards, opting out of formaldehyde to treat its tulle (the secret to its softness). Schwarck also boosted international targeting, researching special occasions in other countries. Quinceañera, a coming of age celebration for Latina girls turning 15, is a heavily requested special occasion category she plans to incorporate soon. This expansion aligns with increased sizing to 18 next year, accommodating the brand’s (literally) growing fan base. To meet its worldwide demand, Luna Luna recently opened two flagships in upscale malls in Indonesia, plus a pop-up in French department store Galeries Lafayette. (Schwarck affirms the brand will continue working exclusively through retail partners in the U.S. for the foreseeable future.) Looking ahead, the founder plans to expand Luna Luna’s baby category for Spring ’20, plus experiment more with sustainability and transparency. And like every decision made in 2019 and going forward, Schwarck’s guiding principle is that image of a little girl running toward a Luna Luna dress, her eyes and smile lighting up her face. “Now that’s success!” she says. —L.P.

VANS MIGHT BE more than 50 years old but the iconic SoCal lifestyle brand, a division of VF Corp., remains as young at heart as ever—a key factor in the success of its kids’ division in 2019. “We connect with our kids’ consumer by truly being kids ourselves,” says Ally Peters, kids’ category manager. Along those lines, Vans debuted its first-ever kids-only style: the XtremeRanger (shown below). The shoe addresses important components of a kids’ design, namely durability and an easy on/ off experience. A knit bootie, breathable mesh/textile uppers and UltraCush midsole round out the shoe’s comfort and performance story. The XtremeRanger’s shoe box even featured a comic bookinspired graphic describing the shoe’s features and benefits, along with a fun maze for kids to complete. Select Classic styles also received updates with ComfyCush technology and added arch support. “We brought in a co-molded construction of foam and rubber for the perfect comfort/grip combo,” Peters says, adding a newly constructed upper provides tongue stabilization. Vans successfully targeted tweens in 2019, too, extending many kids’ SKUs and colorways into sizes 3.5-7. “We recognized a need to support that kids’ consumer transitioning into adult sizes but still desiring to wear the more youthful executions in that line,” Peters says. Inspiring youth culture through creative expression also continued to be essential to Vans’ mission, underscored by frequent updates to favorites like the Classic Slip-On and Old Skool, both of which experienced double-digit growth this year. Novelty continued to be another major volume driver in kids’, namely rainbows, unicorns and sharks. “When successful franchises around our unicorn and shark designs are requested not only from our kids’ consumer but from the adult consumer as well, we know we’ve hit the mark,” Peters says. Vans also debuted apparel collections in kids and toddler sizes this year, offering more head-to-toe coordinated looks. Speaking of which, the brand introduced a targeted marketing campaign aimed at both kids and parents that featured pointed email blasts and e-commerce banners. “Above all, we seek to be playful and engaging in our marketing tactics within Kids,” Peters says. That effort extends to Vans’ retail partners—like its new sizing mat. “Consumers are often in a hurry and may not have time to measure their kids’ feet, so the sizing mat provides an easy and engaging in-store experience,” Peters says, noting a printable digital sizing tool is also available to help with online orders. Vans also named the A.Skate Foundation (a non-profit offering autistic children skateboarding clinics, gear and education about the sport’s therapeutic benefits) as the beneficiary of its reusable bag program. “It was a passion project for me,” says Peters. “I look forward to continuing working with A. Skate in a bigger way in 2020.” —L.P.

Princess Power

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Kids at Heart


BOYS’ APPAREL : MOLO Social Messaging

KNOWN FOR BOLD prints and images that revolutionized kids’ fashion “when everything was pink and blue,” Molo has remained keenly in tune with today’s boy, calling out social consciousness as an increasingly strong play in boys’ apparel this year. In tees, best sellers don’t just feature words or prints with a humorous slant, but also those with an ecological or social message. In addition, a new 3-D printed tee concept added visual texture to further heighten the message. “No matter what country or culture you’re from, we’re all united as a part of the whole,” says Rikke Jepsen, marketing director, noting the design team worked with the term “togetherness” as a graphic theme. Molo mixes fabrics, details and prints, allowing children to express their individual personalities. In 2019 boys’ fashion, athleisure has been the driving force, and Molo’s take on that was layering in an ’80/’90s hip hop vibe. Tracksuit sales grew literally, expanding into the oversized trend with drop-down shoulders and some color blocking. Denim also got fuller. “We still see slim fit, but the loose fit definitely came into play this year,” Jepsen says. Thanks to international collaborations, like the one with Vans this year, Molo’s reach also continues to grow. Another 2019 achievement was getting GOTS certified. “Sixty-five

percent of our merchandise is sustainable in one way or another, without harmful chemicals,” says Jepsen, noting it’s mostly certified organic cotton. Molo is also expanding this concept to organic denim and has been amping up its mix of recycled polyester. “We added a technical outerwear section for cold climates, skiing, etc., and it’s about 50 percent recycled polyester made from plastic bottles,” Jepsen notes. Molo has also been growing with its customers, adding sizes up to 16, not to mention baby clothes for new siblings. Outerwear and swimwear were two new 2019 additions as well, as was a small sports line for girls with technical qualities that cool the garments as the temperature rises. Molo is now sold in 40 countries at both specialty stores and department stores. The Copenhagen-based company is committed to being a reliable partner offering innovative products as well as back room basics. For example, the company creates and shares its marketing materials with retailers and influencers so they can use them and keep brand messaging consistent. “We don’t just want to make product for our retailers to sell,” Jepsen says. “We want to make it easy for them to work with Molo.” —L.P.

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CRIB SHOES : FRESHLY PICKED

GIRLS’ APPAREL : IMOGA

FRESHLY PICKED MIGHT be in the baby shoe business, but the company hardly took baby steps in its growth in 2019. This year was one of major expansion, as Freshly Picked grew its signature moccs business with the addition of new styles and licenses, plus rolled out new offerings for moms, such as diaper bags and weekenders. Freshly Picked also scored by growing its community in 2019. The annualization of the company’s The Fringe membership program, now 30,000 members strong, has been driving customer engagement and significantly boosting sales. Customers pay a $10 monthly membership fee, which gets them a $10/month store credit, 20 percent off the ecommerce site, plus future announcements, free shipping, VIP early access shopping and more. While The Fringe is a good way to build customer loyalty, Freshly Picked’s wholesale business is growing at a faster clip than DTC and now totals nearly 40 percent of sales, notes Susan Petersen, CEO and founder. Part of that growth is attributed to this year’s decision to expand The First Pair program to all wholesale accounts. (The program had been an exclusive with Buy Buy Baby.) While Freshly Picked’s moccasins retail for $49 and $65, this limited offering is priced at $30. “It’s a real introductory offering, with just two styles, five colors and three sizes,” says Petersen. The program is designed for that mom who loves the brand but isn’t ready to spend $60-plus on a baby shoe. With The First Pair program, she gets the Freshly Picked name and quality, albeit in a limited collection of white, black, cream, brown and gray. Freshly Picked’s licensed collections were splurge-worthy items in 2019, Petersen reports. In addition to its ongoing Disney program, the company teamed with Warner Bros. this year for Harry Potter and Batman collections. It also rolled out more upscale styles in the fourth quarter, one being a ballet flat with a velvet bow, dressing up the basic mocc style. Another huge hit was a shearling-lined style. And while most bestsellers this year were in the girls’ category, Freshly Picked experienced success with an expanded offering of gender-neutral styles. “We’re finding ‘new neutrals’ are really having a moment now,” Petersen says. “We love a good beige color or a mauve pink!” Last but not least, Freshly Picked’s newly developed diaper bag category—featuring all vegan leather bags stylish enough to wear after baby grows up—have been on an “amazing uptick” in 2019, Petersen reports. Retailing from $69 to $175, the collection features six styles and new colors were introduced each month as well as a Disney version. “Our tactic has always been to launch with our strongest and best, then layer on colors and patterns once traction is established,” Petersen says. “But when we go to a new Disney category, we always start with Mickey.” —L.P.

BOLSTERED BY ROYAL endorsement, it doesn’t come as a surprise Imoga experienced a record-breaking year in 2019. Featured in the British family’s commemorative album, “Our Royal Baby,” Imoga was the only American children’s label showcased—driving an 18 percent increase in sales from the spotlighted Fall ’19 collection. “Since Meghan Markle is American, the couple is trying to use both American and U.K. brands,” says Nicole Chung, operations manager at Imoga, of the opportunity and how grateful Imoga’s retail partners were for the exposure. “It has truly been an honor.” In 2019, Imoga amped up the wattage fit for British royals and wannabe princesses everywhere. Shades of pink remained key, but girls increasingly gravitated toward anything shimmery—particularly gold as the year wore on. A notable top seller was a new metallic faux suede jacket, which Chung describes as “almost holographic.” People are also starting to gravitate to more bold, fun colors, Chung says, citing animal prints and colorblocking as popular styles. Chung adds that faux fur engaged little girls’ sense of touch this year, from dresses and coats to more accent items like vests and ribbon-tied collars. Puffer coats, meanwhile, offered a sporty accent for feminine dressing. Above all, it has to be whimsical and playful to be Imoga, Chung says. Another key factor contributing to Imoga’s success in 2019, Chung says, involved embracing every opportunity to help its retail partners. Instead of selling direct to consumers, Imoga features a dealer locator link and is always focused on ways to assist its retailers, which included the implementation of a B2B sales automation platform through Brandboom this year. “The platform has made working with buyers and regional showrooms much easier, as buyers can create orders in the comfort of their homes on their mobile devices,” Chung says, citing the decrease in the number of trade shows as a challenge to discovering new boutiques. To compensate, Imoga is also growing its sales associate network. “Mom-and-pop boutiques are still our core distribution channel, and we’re working to offer better values to boost their business,” Chung says, adding Imoga is not looking to expand into e-commerce. “We’re noticing a lot of our retail accounts starting their own e-commerce platforms, and we want to support those.” Instagram, for example, even helps buyers be a bit more adventurous, says Chung. “Retailers sometimes buy the safer items, but once customers start coming in asking for things they saw on our Instagram, buyers will place orders for those items later in the season.” —L.P.

Big Baby Steps

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Fit for Royalty


NATIONAL CHAIN : TARGET

What’s more, Target is already a quarter of the way toward drawing 100 percent of its electricity from renewable sources by 2030. Target also launched its Future at Heart program in 2019, leveraging efforts to connect with its shoppers and employees on a more personal level. To get the program rolling, Target introduced a new paid family leave policy, increasing paid time to welcome a new baby or provide care to an ill family member. It also expanded affordable backup care solutions and doubled the reimbursement amount for adoption and surrogacy fees. Additionally, the company increased its minimum hourly wage this summer to $13, with a goal of $15 by the end of 2020. Future at Heart has been particularly influential for Target’s car seat trade-in program, so far collecting more than half a million car seats to use as parts for new products. Overall, Target employees have logged more than 1 million volunteer hours for the fifth consecutive year. Now, with the giving season upon us, Target has added more than 130,000 seasonal hires to handle the retailer’s growing demand, including a two-fold increase in the number of roles focused on fulfilling digital orders. —E.B.

Bullseye, Baby!

IT WAS A banner year for the iconic bullseye. The best performance in more than a decade, Target’s sales have grown 10 percent since 2017. Digital channel sales particularly skyrocketed in 2019, with a 34 percent increase since the second quarter of 2018. By the end of 2019, Target will have rolled out approximately 120 small-format stores in urban, suburban and college campus communities nationwide. The format features a locally tailored assortment, including many of Target’s best-selling private labels—like Cat & Jack, the highly popular children’s label reporting success from its new adaptive apparel line, and More Than Magic, a lifestyle label for tween girls designed to be shopped with friends. The curated shops also highlight several exclusive collaborations. Upgraded delivery opportunities are another way Target has been closing the convenience gap with Amazon. Target’s recent acquisition of Shipt, a service offering same-day delivery is now available in nearly every state. The retailer has also introduced buy online/pickup in-store and drive-up services. Target’s sustainability efforts were another highlight in 2019. Back in 2015, the company promised to add rooftop solar panels to 500 locations by 2020, and last month it celebrated the final installation.

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SLEEPWEAR : KICKEE PANTS

ACCESSORIES : OMG ACCESSORIES

KICKEE PANTS ISN’T just about comfy sleepwear or even daywear. It’s really about family. The bamboo-based comfort line has grown into a lifestyle brand that “celebrates the innocence of childhood and the magic of parenthood,” says Co-founder Nick Cloke, who, with partner Aerin have four children aged 8 to 14. “We wanted to celebrate the bonds between parent and child through coordinated, playful prints the whole family can wear together,” he says. And with several Earnie Awards in just 13 years and double-digit growth in 2019, it’s safe to say the Kickee Pants family includes committed consumers and retailers too. In 2019, Kickee Pants expanded its already growing womenswear and menswear collections, adding more bodies and prints for family matching, even including pets. The company has seen “incredible growth” in this area, adding targeted reps and getting picked up by stores that only carry the adult collection. Kids (and increasingly adults) appear on Instagram, hashtagged #KickeeCamo atop coordinating print blankets and sheets. “We don’t even really know who posted the first #KickeeCamo!” says Cloke. “It happened organically from customers.” Today, parents pose alongside their children in matching PJs and bedding. Infant and layette remained the strongest categories in 2019, but Kickee Pants was surprised by growth in more mature kids and menswear. “Keeping our men’s boxer briefs in stock has been a challenge and more sophisticated outfits for older children (performance legging and keyhole dresses for girls’ and boys’ outerwear) have performed great,” Cloke says. Another launch hit was waterresistant raincoats in limited prints. But the big highlight of 2019 was Kickee Pants’ rollout of its first license with B Amici, offering infant shoes with soft leather or rubber soles. “This has given our existing retailers a new category and launched us into shoe stores,” Cloke says, adding they’ve always focused on foot comfort with cozy fleece foot pads in Footie with Paws. In a year where many retailers struggled, Kickee Pants amped up its Back to Bricks initiative, offering specialty retailers experiences (i.e., Aerin flying to stores for book readings from Kickee Press featuring characters and motifs from its apparel. There’s even a free Kickee app featuring interactive read-alouds and games.) Strategies like delaying introductions on its own site so retail partners can get items to market first to improving upon its signature bamboo fabric, the good, better, best approach shows just how far it had taken the company. In 2009, Kickee Pants’ biggest challenge was explaining you could even make fabric out of bamboo, now it’s all about innovation. “In 2019, we added a woven bamboo that feels like silk plus organic cotton/bamboo blends to our heavier suede bamboo,” Cloke says. “Our customers love it.” —L.P.

FINDING THAT PERFECT muse for your kids’ line is like finding a unicorn, and OMG Accessories has done just that— literally. Led by the brand’s uber-famous Miss Gwen unicorn, which galloped onto the scene years ago, the line has expanded into an array of other whimsical characters that kids adore worldwide. Take OMG’s new graphic concept introduced this year, Unicorn Money. “We created this pink glitter money—a unicorn currency—and the girls are loving it,” says CEO and Founder Anne Harper. The money motif is apt, as OMG Accessories sold more than 2 million products in 2019, and this year opened a record number of retailers, including 33 new international accounts. Distribution now spans specialty boutiques and leading national chains, including Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s. This year was also the year OMG doubled-down on marketing. “We invested a lot and hired a marketing team, so we’d be more consistent with our photo shoots and social media,” Harper says, adding it’s already paid off. The brand’s Instagram following has tripled to 34K this year. “As we evolve the brand, we really need to show who we are,” the exec says. The brand continues to grow up with its customers. While OMG’s core age group is 4 to 12, Harper says young girls are much more mature these days. “With social media, everyone has access to everything, and fiveyear-old girls know what they want, and that’s autonomy,” she says. For OMG in 2019 that meant girls wanting their own luggage and travel pillow for a trip or sleepover. “We added the home category this year, with items like throw pillows for the bed,” Harper says, noting young girls are the decision makers in what they wear and how they decorate their room. “For 2020, we plan to get into cold-weather, socks, underwear and sleepwear.” OMG Accessories puts a lot of detail into its products, even if that means a bit more cost on its end. “Everyone is always all about price, price, price, but I want our product to feel elevated,” she says. “I want girls to come to us for those extra details like embroidered eyelashes, glitter printing, embellished appliques and special glitters for the hair. We set ourselves apart by making a lot of our own materials, colors, coatings, graphics and prints, and we legally protect our designs and the integrity of the brand.” Beyond its iconic unicorn, new characters and products have been successfully added to OMG’s collection each year. So what’s OMG’s next big character? The company is betting on the butterfly to soar. “With gitter, iridescence, special ombre and pastels,” Harper says. “It’s going to be huge.” —L.P.

Sleep Tight!

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Unicorn Utopia


SWIMWEAR : SHADE CRITTERS Bright Ideas

PREVIOUSLY A BUYER for tween chain Limited Too, Maureen Schmidt launched Shade Critters with her husband in 2015 backed by a comprehensive understanding of the brand’s target audience: Millennials. “I’ve followed millennials since they were tweens, and now they’re becoming moms,” she says, noting Shade Critters’ sales doubling in 2019 can mostly be chalked up to keeping an eye on social media for “what’s next.” Aiming to please the Instagram-obsessed demographic, Shade Critters stayed on top of trending words, phrases and styles this past year. The brand introduced several Insta-worthy looks, like paillette and sequin swimsuits and a colorful explosion of tie-dye. The brand’s “magic swimsuit” also made a huge splash, often shared by customers in Boomerang videos that showcase the changing prints and colors activated by water and UV light. The impact of photogenic swimwear has been so significant, Schmidt added a tab on the website called “Insta-Worthy Suits.” The section highlights graphic styles, often with built-in captions, including cheeky phrases like “I Don’t Do Winters” and “Vacay All Day.” Neon was another strong seller, which Schmidt expects to remain hot in 2020, as well as coordinating swimsuits for the whole family.

Shade Critters also expanded into the tween market in 2019 with a bikini line for girls in sizes 7 to 14. “The bikinis had huge success because girls can easily slip a UPF50+ rashguard right over them,” Maureen says of the mix-and-match range. The co-founder also cites a makeover to boys’ styles to ensure more stretch—a welcome suggestion from her 13-year-old son who enjoys sailing. Last but not least for notable successes in 2019, Shade Critters debuted its first popup shop, in Ocean Reef, FL, and dipped its toe into international waters by attending Playtime in Paris. “We were a bit nervous since we have such brights and a lot of European styling is more natural, but the line did great,” Schmidt reports, noting that the global reach of Instagram phrases, even in English, made the collection well received. Loved by bloggers and moms alike, Schmidt believes Shade Critters success in 2019 bodes well for continued growth in the years ahead. “We’re very grateful for so much organic growth and forecast a subsequently bright future ahead,” she says. —L.P.

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INFANT ACCESSORY : WUBBANUB Sleep Tight!

THERE IS ABSOLUTELY no quiet more blissful than the one that immediately follows a crying baby. It’s why moms reach for trusty pacifiers and favorite plush toys to soothe their babies, and the beauty and success driving Wubbanub is they only have to grab one! Founded in 1999, Carla Schneider saw a white space in the market for a pacifier that babies would—and could—hold with ease. “My son had a lot of colic, but the pacifier would always fall out of his mouth, into the crib or under the car seat, and I’d have to pull over,” she says. One particularly difficult night on vacation, Schneider grabbed the hotel sewing kit and sewed her baby’s favorite stuffed toy to the pacifier to comfort him. Voilà! Or should we say, Wubbanub! A business was born. After selling to boutiques for several years, Wubbanub launched into Buy Buy Baby and, soon after, came the company’s gamechanger—being picked up by Target. “A buyer at Target had heard about the item from friends, as so many buyers are young moms,” Schneider recalls. “We met up at the ABC Kids Expo and she asked if I was ‘ready’ because she wasn’t testing it, she was going full chain!” It’s been yearly growth ever since as Wubbanub has introduced new designs and product extensions to meet the ever-increasing demand. The beloved— and patented—product won seven awards just in 2019 (including an Earnie), and the level of fandom is insane, Schneider reports. “Our fans are really what catapulted it from a product to a consumer brand,” she says. Schneider regularly polls superfans for new product input and opinions. Parents have gotten particularly creative in recent years, yielding Wubbanub Halloween costumes, Wubbanub-themed birthday parties and some have even sent pictures of Wubbanub tattoos! “There’s such a fondness for the Wubbanub as it really connects to those early baby memories,” Schneider says. “Plus, it’s in the photo albums.” With retail pricing at a relative affordable $13.99, Wubbanubs are often gifted or purchased in multiples for easy access. In 2019, the most popular were the elephant, giraffe, brown puppy and, no surprise, unicorn styles. The sloth is gaining momentum and Wubbanub is unleashing a yeti soon. Many large retailers also do exclusive designs, like Nordstrom’s black and white puppy. As for that odd yet catchy name? It’s become the company’s calling card, Schneider says. “We came up with Wubbanub after a company pow wow—and a bottle of wine,” she says. “I was adamant it shouldn’t have the word ‘binky’ or ‘pacifier’ in it, and I had a ‘wubby’ when I was little. Wubbanub is easy to remember, fun to say, not too baby, not self-explanatory and works for all categories of distribution. It was the best decision I ever made.” Wubbanub has expanded well beyond baby stores, selling in gift card shops and restaurants near stadiums. (Wubbanub signed a licensing agreement with Major League Baseball this year). The company has a second pacifier design patent in the works and is focusing on its growing international distribution in 2020. Another key objective for next year is continuing to grow up with its end-use customers, offering items beyond the pacifier stage. Wubbanub recently introduced ultra-soft plush loveys and a playful rattle. “I often hear, ‘I wish you had more options,’ and I listen to all the customers,” Schneider says. “It’s time to expand.” —L.P.

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SHOWER G IFTS : MUD PIE The Little Things

WITH SO MANY new moms employed in its offices, Mud Pie’s recent offerings aren’t just Mom-approved but Mom-inspired. This wealth of first-hand knowledge confirmed that excitement reaches fever pitch at baby showers, with staff looking for ever-creative ways to celebrate the momentous occasion. It’s why Mud Pie dialed in on the shower gifts category this year. “We’ve targeted baby shower gifts as a specific category for growth, so being voted the winner of 2019 Shower Gifts category by the readers of Earnshaw’s was a huge accomplishment for us,” says Marcia Miller, founder and CEO. “The introduction of boxed gift sets, luscious blankets and high-quality

newborn apparel played a central role in our 2019 kids’ introduction, which included our largest assortment of children’s gifts and décor ever.” Moving up Mud Pie’s launch calendar by a full three months was another key 2019 initiative to help its retail partners better merchandise their stores and websites. To that end, a new state-of-the-art warehouse automation system introduced this year expanded capacity and delivery speeds to retailers. It has been a boon, Miller reports, adding the company’s secret weapon continues to be its “outstanding” team of 17 sales and customer experience associates who manage 16,000 specialty retailers and department store accounts. While tariff uncertainties cast a cloud over 2019, Mud Pie maintained its competitive pricing, challenging designers, sourcing partners and factories to find efficiencies. It’s just part of doing whatever it takes to nurture Mud Pie’s continued growth. —L.P.


OUTERWEAR: PATAGONIA Green Dreams

PATAGONIA WAS IN the news often again this year, most notably as the eco-minded company continued to be at the forefront of an array of like-minded corporations protesting President Trump’s roll back of environmental regulations and restrictions on protected lands. In fact, the United Nations recognized Patagonia in September with its highest environmental honor, the UN Champion of the Earth award, for its decades of entrepreneurial vision while prioritizing sustainability and supporting environmental causes. Currently, almost 70 percent of its products are made from recycled materials and the goal is, by 2025, to be using 100 percent renewable or recycled materials. This year’s efforts also included Patagonia opening its first Worn Wear pop-up in Boulder, CO, stocked exclusively with quality used Patagonia products that have been bought back from customers as well as the brand’s ReCrafted collection, a new line of products made from other clothes that are beyond repair. Lisa Huang, product line manager for Patagonia Kids reports the kids’ business is “healthy and growing” in 2019, especially in the outerwear category, which spans raincoats to insulated outerwear. Shifting, unpredictable weather patterns have pushed Patagonia to reimagine the category. “People want that one waterproof jacket that will get them through the year, but changing weather has definitely driven additional sales of our lighter weight and layered pieces, such as fleece,” Huang says, noting the company now brings in fall merchandise a month later (Aug. 1) to reflect the shift in seasons. “There is more transitional product in early fall, and the heavyweight products are selling well into January,” she adds. Versatility is the key design element of Patagonia. For example, Patagonia’s boys and girls 4-in-1 Everyday Jacket ($169 SRP) inside jacket zips out so kids can wear it as an insulated waterproof jacket, a rain shell on its own, or the zip-out liner with a taffeta shell, which also reverses to a fleece. Indeed, fleece has emerged as a major transitional material, attracting many new customers to the brand this year, especially with its lower prices ($59 to $99 for kids). Keeping with its new mission towards a better planet, Patagonia’s Better Sweater fleece program for adults and kids moved everything to recycled materials except for the zipper teeth. “It was a major environmental win given the size of the program,” says Huang. Patagonia’s heightened sustainability efforts has even had an impact on print, pattern and color palettes this year. Seasonal design themes revolve around an environmental initiative and this fall it was public lands. “All artwork is original, with favorites being animal motifs (bears, muskox, owls), conversational prints and small florals,” Huang says. Looking ahead to Spring ’20, Patagonia will roll out technical advances for sun protection in lightweight layered pieces. Regenerative organic agriculture is another emerging focus for Patagonia’s sourcing and manufacturing. “Patagonia, along with Rodale Institute and Dr. Bronner, helped develop the Regenerative Organic Certification (ROC), a holistic certification that ensures workers, animals and the planet are being treated responsibly,” Huang says. Next spring, Patagonia will introduce its first products made with ROC pilot cotton from India. —L.P. >32

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Samsara wears Pink Chicken dress underneath coral blouse by Tia Cibani.

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Dominique wears Givenchy anorak, Raspberry Plum skirt and Cape Clogs metallic clogs. Opposite page: Isabella wears Catimini rain jacket, silver leotard by Appaman and Mas tulle skirt. 22




Samsara wears sheer dress and cape by Carbon Soldier over dress by Pink Chicken. Hair and makeup by Yumi Kaizuka using Weleda Baby; photo assistance by Jaime Ellington; styling assistance by Khalila White.

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Kylie wears top by Appaman, Iloveplum long-sleeved tutu dress, necklace by Charm It and sunglasses by Sons + Daughters.

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This page: Dominique wears Bling2o sprinkle goggles over Molo hat, Deux Par Deux blouse, leggings by Catimini, purse by OMG Accessories and soft toy by Jellycat. Opposite page: Isabella wears Caffe D’orzo necklace, Molo sunglasses worn on head, Kenzo sweatshirt and Deux Par Deux rainbow tulle skirt.

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Samara wears jacket by Western Chief, shirt by Anchors n Asteroids, collar by Cosmosophie, blue skirt by Kenzo, Baby Deer shoes, Fun Socks striped socks and Steiff teddy bear. Hair and makeup by Yumi Kaizuka using Weleda Baby; photo assistance by Jaime Ellington; styling assistance by Khalila White.

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t h e e a r n i e awa r d s continued from page 19

DEPARTMENT STORE : NORDSTROM

SPECIALT Y RETAILER : EVERAFTER

SINCE 1901, NORDSTROM has been on a mission to convert customers into loyal “Nordys.” And 2019 was no different, aside from the fact the Seattle retailer really upped its game across its portfolio, highlighted by the opening of a mega-flagship in New York, new retail concepts, an improved loyalty program and unique merchandise. “We are focusing on limited distribution and exclusive brands, while reimagining how we bring this to life in-store and online,” says Beverly Mills, vice president of merchandising for Nordstrom’s kidswear division. The effort involves more brand partnerships, exclusives, a revamped gift assortment and a trendy private label division (Nordstrom Made). “This year, we also expanded the assortment of baby apparel and gear merchandise,” Mills says, adding the older kids’ gift selection got a tune up too, with quirky items like cheese puff-printed puzzles, funky nightlights and nostalgic graphic tees. “Our brand promise is to make parents’ lives easier,” Mills says of the updated selection. “And that comes from building trust and confidence with every purchase.” To that end, Nordstrom successfully reimagined its loyalty program, The Nordy Club, with tremendous success of late. Serving 12 million active consumers in 2019, the program has seen an increase of 12 percent over last year. In fact, 64 percent of total sales come from Nordy Club members. Participants are encouraged to create their own “Nordy Portrait” on the Nordstrom App for access to an integrated dashboard of one’s loyalty profile, including the ability to track benefits and apply special rewards. Although Nordstrom’s tech-savvy approach has attracted more online shoppers (digital sales increased four percent from last year and represent about 30 percent of total sales), in-store traffic remains a key focus. The recently introduced Nordstrom Local that doesn’t have any inventory but instead features juice bars, nail salons, tailors, style consultations and even stroller cleaning services was expanded in 2019. Customers order items online and pick up at the new-age store, fusing online and in-store shopping. This year also marked the largest single-project investment in Nordstrom’s history: a seven-floor, 320,00-square-foot, state-of-the-art flagship in New York that opened to much fanfare this fall. The extensive efforts are paying strong dividends. Nordstrom’s third quarter sales beat Wall Street expectations—a bright spot among weaker than expected earnings from several rivals. Total company net sales improved by more than 200 basis points from the first half of 2019 and ahead of targets by $10 million. “It’s a culmination of efforts across many teams,” says Erik Nordstrom, co-president of Nordstrom. “We are grateful for their dedication and passion in bringing this store to life.” —E.B.

APPEALING TO THE tween demographic is a daunting task for many retailers. Not only is it a narrow age window, tweens are a fickle, non-uniform and fast-moving target. But husband and wife Haro Keledjian and Sari Sloane, founders of Everafter, have curated a tween corral with precision and success. The chain now boasts five locations that appeal to kids without being too “kiddy.” Trendy furniture and spacious dressing rooms serve as the backdrop to the latest trends, while sales associates consult with each child to target their specific needs. This year, Everafter took its customer service up a notch higher, requiring each employee to create an Instagram account. “Our employees really are personal stylists,” Sloane says, noting customers can direct message their sales associate on Instagram about what’s new in the store or just ask for fashion advice. “We don’t just want to make a sale but build a friendship,” adds Sloane, a former fashion director of Intermix. Everafter has gained a loyal following at each of its locations (Manhattan’s Tribeca and Upper East Side neighborhoods, Long Island and Brentwood, CA) by being on-trend with a locally inspired focus layered on top. Extensive research goes into curating the selection of more than 200 vendors that span couture to impulse items, running from $5 to $500. This year, Everafter debuted its private label brand, which included a hot collaboration with womenswear label Suzie Kondi. Kids went crazy for the partnership’s tie-dye sweatsuits. “Our private label will be used to fill in where there’s a void from vendors,” Sloane says. “It’s also a great tool for when we see a trend that our vendors haven’t introduced yet—like the tiedye sweats.” Everafter also amped upin-storeeventsin2019, spanning sneaker painting and bracelet-making to charity collaborations. The retailer’s firstever pop-up was another successful endeavor in 2019. Located in Aspen, CO, Sloane reports the store served as a great marketing tool, especially for its e-commerce sales. “Setting up shop in a resort area is an excellent way to expose your business to both domestic and international patrons,” she says. Sloane adds the boost in online sales from a wider demographic has continued since the pop-up closed in the spring. Gearing up for 2020, the retailer expects more growth, including the possibility for more stores. “There’s definitely other permanent locations on our radar but nothing signed yet,” Sloane says. “All I can say is we have a lot in the works, so stay tuned!” —E.B.

Full-Court Press

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Tween Terrific


BE THE BUYER

Souther n Comfor t Jennifer Atkins, co-owner of Peony Nola, on crafting a cozy-chic in-store experience through inspirational new products and perfected customer service.

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PRESSING THE FLESH No matter how digitally driven the world

gets, I will always cherish the experience of meeting a brand for the first time in person. Making that connection with the people behind a label at a trade show is magical. However, once I know a brand well—for instance, I know Tutu Du Monde like the back of my hand—I’ll write orders online. Of course, I stop by my vendors’ booths at a show and say ‘hello,’ but I ultimately designate most of my time to scouting new brand when I’ve traveled to a market. I travel to Playtime Paris every other year. I also attended Pitti Immagine Bimbo in Florence for the first time this summer. I find shopping internationally to be particularly beneficial in discovering product that U.S. customers won’t find anywhere else. In today’s world, you can’t just stock brands your customer will search in the dressing room and get shipped to their home for free the next day. You’re just asking for trouble. More than ever, you have to be unique, which means going the extra mile(s).

STUDY ABROAD

BACKGROUND CHECK Before I write orders, I do my research. I immediately will look a brand up online, see whether it sells to my neighbors and/or find out about special offers for wholesale partners. It’s presumptuous to expect me to waste my shelf space on a label that doesn’t feel the need to invest time and energy into its retail partners. There’s just too many other options out there! THAT PERFECT MOMENT It’s important to understand how trends ebb and flow. Even if you have an eye for trends, you learn timing is everything as a buyer. It’s most frustrating when I fall in love with a line, and it doesn’t sell the season I bring it in but explodes a season later when I no longer carry it. That said, keep an eye on what’s going to be hot, so you know the best time to introduce something new. For example, children’s skincare and bath products are booming right now, so stock up!

I’m always looking for fun add-ons, from cute hair accessories and sparkly lip glosses to bottles of Define Me hair perfume. Our job is to keep the customer inspired from the moment they walk through the door to when they step up to the register. We’ve even invited a makeup artist to teach our customers about skin products and perfumes at the store. It’s always a great idea to inspire customers with a personalized service that ties back to your inventory. That way everyone wins!

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continued from page 9

Klein Group. In 2000, she opened anothover the town as a destination store for er showroom in the Atlanta Apparel childrenswear. Mart. Between the two showrooms, In addition to top-notch service, Klein Klein reports generating more than attributes her stores’ success to her team $20 million in annual sales at their height. being “ahead of its time” when it came to The Atlanta location closed in 2017, product merchandising. “We were one thanks to a perfect storm of challenging of the first to merchandise by color,” she market conditions and inflexible leasing says. “We also were forward-thinking agreements, but the exec is looking into when it came to putting the baby options opening a new showroom there as soon in the back and older kids in the front, so as 2020. “It feels like the right time to customers didn’t have to walk through expand again,” Klein says, citing the a ‘baby store’ to get to tween clothing.” increased opportunities to connect in Klein’s stores hummed along straight the digital age. For example, The Klein through the ’70s. Kids were plentiful, Group integrates online platforms like the competition was manageable and Brandboom and RepTime to simplify the Texas economy was juiced. That its ordering process. It also has boosted is until the oil crisis of the early ’80s Window display at The Klein Group showroom in Dallas. its social media presence, with Klein hit and changed everything. The sharp often shooting live stream videos to share new product with thousands decline in production put a cap on discretionary spending. Texas retail of followers. What’s more, Klein challenges each of her reps to schedule suffered greatly. Klein’s husband had warned that they’d probably would at least 10 FaceTime appointments per week, not only capitalizing on close some stores, and he was (partially) right. Ultimately, they sold two convenience but also expanding the showroom’s client reach. “When I stores to employees who were running them and shuttered the rest. It started as a rep, there weren’t even cell phones,” she says. Today, Klein’s was a dark chapter in Klein’s career. All that hard work and poof. What close-knit team of six reps and a marketing consultant stay nimble and would she do next? Klein recalls the exact moment she could have given connected when it comes to applying the latest strategies. There may be up completely, only to embark on a new chapter by deciding to launch fewer retailers overall, but there are many more ways to stay in touch. her own sales rep agency. “I remember walking into my office that day It’s another yin-yang example of finding a way to stay in business. But and sitting on the floor—not even at my desk—and just sobbing,” she says. the most effective sales technique, according to Klein, extends beyond “Finally, I told myself, ‘Okay Marilyn. Pick yourself up, draw a line in the the latest technologies. It comes down to simply being there for your sand and catch your pass—it’s time to work on your future.” customer—whenever, however and wherever that may be. “Marilyn will go out of her way to make a deal work even if it means THE AGENCY YEARS sharing her part of the pie,” confirms KJ Kim, president of Imoga and Wholesale partners had offered Klein their sympathies, but more imporrepped by The Klein Group since 2012. “Major accounts often ask for a tantly they were instrumental in urging her to become a childrenswear discount upfront to increase their margin, but Marilyn was willing to rep. They told her she had the industry knowledge, a keen eye for mershare the burden to make the deal work when we started out. It was a chandise and terrific people skills. It was the sales rep’s trifecta. If she tremendous help as a small brand trying to expand.” was able to introduce their brands successfully in one Texas chain, they Schmidt says Klein isn’t just a rep for her brands; she’s an expert advisaw no reason why she couldn’t extend those talents to other retailers sor. “Marilyn has been through the trends three times, so she’s a great nationwide. “I decided to go for it,” Klein says. sherpa in terms of predicting what the next evolution of a brand should Klein’s first client was a close industry friend, Irwin Chaiken, founder be,” Schmidt says. “Honestly, with her talent and outstanding personality, of a playwear line Ann’s Place. New to the rep game, Klein was open that woman could have her own TV show!” to advice. “You’ve got to look the part,” Chaiken advised, suggesting a Speaking of which, if it weren’t for her friend who first suggested selling rep-worthy uniform of a suit, pumps and a briefcase in replace of Klein’s childrenswear, Klein very well could have finished earning her degree at eclectic (and sometimes hand-painted) attire. The first appointment was the University of Texas and gone on to fulfill her original dream: an on-air with a buyer from Foley’s department store, who Klein had befriended weather reporter. “I always had a desire to be in front of the camera,” at a trade show during her retailer days. The buyer had a visceral reacKlein says, noting it’s not surprising she ultimately fell in love with sales. tion to the “new” Klein. “She literally said, ‘Why are you wearing those “There’s a lot of parallels between the retail and broadcasting in terms of clothes? That’s not the Marilyn I know!’” That’s the day Klein learned being in front of people and winning their attention, trust and loyalty.” an invaluable business lesson that she would remember for the rest of But Klein has no regrets about having landed a recurrent leading role her life: Always be yourself. in childrenswear instead. In fact, if she could live her life over again, Klein’s buttoned-up appearance aside, that first day turned out quite she wouldn’t change a stitch. Selling childrenwear has been a labor of well. She secured orders from Foley’s and another local department love—the clothes, the people who make and sell them, and of course the store chain, Sakowitz. “I was very lucky to begin my journey as a rep with children who wear them. What’s not to love? “I can’t say for sure what department store accounts,” she says, noting those orders would be key today’s crazy retail climate will bring, but there’s one thing I can tell you in getting her business off the launch pad. with certainty,” Klein says. “There’s a 100 percent chance retirement is After a brief period of sharing a showroom at Dallas Market Center, Klein secured her own space in 1984, marking the official start of The 34

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BEHIND THE SEAMS

Something Special Venetian Décor Oh Baby offers unique assortment of heirloom-quality baby gifts. SPECIALIZING IN HOME décor with a French flair, Vancouver-based designer Pamela Beattie has expanded into baby gifting. Debuting her label Venetian Décor Oh Baby in 2017, the artisan gained traction at first with her customized keepsake pillows. “The design world is more competitive than ever, so you have to start with something extra special,” Beattie says. “It comes down to identifying your niche, particularly in the highly saturated baby market.” Importing French furniture frames from Italy and laser-etching inked prints of newborns’ hands and feet into buttery soft Italian leathers, Beattie produced hundreds of down-filled custom creations for those who placed orders through Venetian Décor’s website and social media channels. Thrilled by the response, the brand expanded to wholesale in 2018 across North America, and this year marked steady growth in adding new accounts. “Our main goal for 2020 is to connect with more specialty retailers,” Beattie says. Most recently, the assortment expanded with a collection of bamboo French terry layette. “We say our garments ‘caress your baby from the inside out,’” Beattie says of the luxurious textiles. Gift bundles were another top seller this year, especially in bath offerings, which include organic handmade soy candles, baby powder of a proprietary “newborn blend,” massage oils and handcrafted robin’s egg soaps. “I love nothing more than presenting a new family with a gift set of unique and useful products,” the exec says, adding that the packaging is just as important as the products. In fact, it took weeks of envisioning something “pretty, functional and eco-friendly” before Beattie finally settled on clever tin paint cans. “I spent countless hours on our packaging going over the most beautiful little details,” she says. “I probably drove my graphic designer crazy!” Durable and sustainable, the tin containers even inspired an add-on concept: the Baby Time Capsule. “Our Grand Nesting Bundle (packaged in a large tin paint can) with accompanying accessory pouch includes extras like Letter to Baby, Love Note stickers and acid-free tissue paper that parents can use to convert

the paint can into a keepsake time capsule,” Beattie explains. “Not only is it adorable, but it adds value to our product.” For Spring ’20, Venetian Décor Oh Baby will roll out several fresh fabrics for take-me-home outfits. “I’m revamping some vintage sewing patterns I’ve collected over the years,” Beattie says, noting every piece will be manufactured with soft organic linen in a sweet pastel palette. “I’m absolutely in love with vintage Parisian laces and buttons, so customers can expect to see lots of those elements, as well.” Over the next five years, Venetian Décor plans to deepen its relationships with its retail partners in the U.S. and Canada as well as expand into Europe. “It’s a matter of connecting with retailers, maintaining relationships and always staying on top of what’s trending,” Beattie says, joking she could open a used bookstore with all the design magazines she’s purchased for research over the years. “Ultimately, the main ingredient to success is following your passion,” she adds. “If you can do that, the rest will just come naturally.” —Emily Beckman

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FROM THE ARCHIVES

The Earnies Through the Ages FOR NEARLY 50 YEARS, Earnshaw’s has recognized childrenswear professionals for design and retail excellence with its annual Earnie Awards. Looking back, many of today’s fashion moguls were recognized at our awards, including heavy hitters like Tommy Hilfiger, Yves St. Laurent and Geoffrey Beene. Here’s a look at some special moments over the years. Model showcases Earnie-winning collection by Tommy Hilfiger. 1995, Jan. issue

Lindsay Lohan models in Earnie fashion show. 1995, Jan. issue

New York mayor Edward Koch gives speech during awards dinner. 1981, Sept. issue

Earnie winner headshots 1978 , June issue

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Announcement introducing the Earnie Awards, published in October 1976.




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