R O B E E Z ST E P S U P
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M ATC H P O I N T: M O M M Y A N D M E ST Y L E F O R T H E W I N
VOLUME 98 NUMBER 9
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S P R I N G AC C E S S O R I E S S N E A K P R E V I E W
OCTOBER 201 4 $10.00
HOT
TROPICS
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tights
for all ages
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OCTOBER 2014
Noelle Heffernan Publisher Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors
FEATURES EDITORIAL Lyndsay McGregor Senior Editor Social Media Editor
16 Stepping Ahead President David McCubbin reveals why his family’s storied hosiery company is perfectly poised to revamp Robeez.
20 Twin Set As more kids’ brands offer grown-up looks, it’s no longer a faux pas to match with mommy. Capitalize on the coordinating concept with these top tips.
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Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor Samantha Sciarrotta Assistant Editor
ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher
30 Treasure Map
Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager
From boho-chic to high-wattage shine, we share next season’s biggest trends in our Spring ’15 Accesories Preview.
PRODUCTION Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster
CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com
FASHION 22 Get Rio Designers feel the heat for Spring ’15, with a bevy of breezy, Brazil-inspired styles. 4 Editor’s Note 6 Talking Points 8 Hot Properties 10 Fresh Finds 12 On Trend 34 Behind the Seams 40 The Pulse
On cover, from left: Wolf & Rita feather-print top, Lulaland floral pants; Lulaland top, Anaïs & I belt, Wolf & Rita skirt worn over Nico Nico skirt; model’s own collared shirt, Anaïs & I skirt worn over Lulaland skirt. Photography by Amanda Pratt. Styling by Annie Caruso. Hair and makeup by Yuko Mizuno/Rona Represents. All accessories courtesy of Cecilia Elguero.
Anaïs & I tunic and shorts.
Circulation Office Joel Shupp 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller
EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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SOUTH Hollee Hannon 972.768.5547 holleehannon@aol.com
SOUTHEAST Joyce Nillson 704.541.5443 jomarmarketing@aol.com
NEW ENGLAND David Alterwitz 781-407-0001 dalterwitz@gmail.com
NORTHEAST Brad Haslam 801-658-0400 sales@persnicketyclothing.com
MIDWEST Lisa Tompkins 614-370-5472 lisa@treehouseoffashion.com
WEST Stephenie Becker 213-896-0024 stephenie@bowandarrowshowroom.com
UK Brad Haslam 801-658-0400 sales@persnicketyclothing.com
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editor’s note A FEW WEEKS ago, I stopped by a local burger spot for dinner. The scowling employee behind the counter was, to put it politely, not happy to be there. In protest, he blasted X-rated tunes from his iPod, even though kids were in the shop. When my husband told him the ice machine was jammed, he shrugged and replied: “It will melt.” We took our food to go and vowed never to return. In the end, the burgers were actually quite tasty. What could have become our go-to neighborhood greasy spoon is instead fodder for warnings to our neighborhood friends: Whatever you do, don’t go there! And all it took was one disgruntled employee. Who knows how many customers he chased away that day, or week, or month? In the pages of Earnshaw’s, we always look for ways to help retailers succeed. We scour studies on the mindset of millennials, extol the merits of good social media strategy and interview experts on everything from clever merchandising techniques to next season’s top trends. Yet all of the advice always circles back to one crucial point: You can have the best products on the block, a killer Facebook presence and a beautifully designed store—but none of it matters without stellar customer service. Yet we all know that maintaining a sunny disposition around the clock can be a Herculean task, especially when contending with everything from late shipments to staffing conundrums to wild weather patterns that derail monthly sales. (As for this year, the bad news is that forecasters predict winter will be just as cold and snowy as the last. The good news? It won’t drag into April and May this time.) It’s not always easy for us, either. While I would love to tell you that producing every issue of Earnshaw’s is a seamless, stress-free endeavor, I have a feeling you wouldn’t believe me anyway. No matter the industry, hiccups arise. Part of being a savvy business owner is reminding clients to pay no attention to the man behind the curtain. You may be frantically checking e-mails, answering phones and packing boxes behind the scenes, but you’ve succeeded if a
Magic Act You don’t have to be Houdini to create an enchanting customer experience, but a little beguilement doesn’t hurt.
customer leaves your store feeling like they had a magical experience—without knowing just how much elbow grease went into making that magic happen. Take New York Fashion Week, which just wrapped up last month, for example. Thanks to the occasional behind-the-scenes peek, we know the backstage area can be a chaotic mix of models, stylists, seamstresses and makeup artists all scrambling at the last minute to craft a flawless presentation. And yet, for hundreds of designers, all we see are inspiringly theatrical runway shows filled with dreamworthy clothes. Even street-style stars have stepped up their game in recent years, with impeccably crafted looks. I’m sure their rooms at home are scattered with optional garments and accessories discarded at the last minute, but we will never know. All we see is their perfect look, playful Prada bag and knowing smile. Of course, those street-style stars have it a bit easier. After all, they’re running a business of one. Retailers, on the other hand, rely on a small army of employees and suppliers. And as in the case of that unhappy burger employee, one bad apple can tarnish the luster on even the most glowing enterprise. That’s why David McCubbin, the subject of this month’s Q&A on p. 16, may be on to something: The president of McCubbin Hosiery, David credits his team, which he describes “second to none,” for the company’s success. Similarly, I’m very fortunate to have a staff here at Earnshaw’s—from our hard-working editors to our endlessly imaginative designers and our savvy sales team—that makes the magic happen every month. Just pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
AUDREY GOODSON KINGO
audrey.kingo@9threads.com
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wish upon a star . . . Introducing milky way and celebration—a new twist on our classic big stars. These prints are available in our soft, breathable bamboo* muslin.
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view the collection at: Dallas KidsWorld Market Booth #8701-21 Š2014 Aden & Anais, Inc. All rights reserved. *rayon fiber from bamboo
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Talking
Points Aussie Invasion
An influx of brands from the land down under hop into the American market.
Hootkid
IF YOU’VE BEEN to a children’s trade show recently, chances are you’ve noticed a growing share of Australian brands, all trying to claim a coveted slice of the U.S. market. And while everything from an easier visa process to a recovering U.S. economy have tempted more Aussie business owners to make the leap across the globe, the most basic explanation boils down to simple sales potential: “The Australian market is very small in comparison to America’s,” says Caroline Marvelli, founder of Hootkid, an Australian brand that made its U.S. debut at the August edition of ENK Children’s Club. “It’s really hard for an independent
label to build workable sales volumes in Australia, even if you supply a big slice of the market, so it’s natural to look to the northern hemisphere for growth.” Australia’s market is so much smaller, in fact, that Paper Wings International and Australian Sales Manager Peter McGuinness points out that there are only about 200 independent children’s apparel boutiques in the entire country. “The brutal reality is that the children’s medium- and high-end fashion market in Australia is simply too small,” he notes. The reason? Despite Australia’s large geographical area, the country has very few medium-sized cities and regional towns; instead, it’s dominated by big, sprawling cities that McGuinness says are the perfect breeding ground for mega malls with rent that is inevitably too pricey for smaller, independent businesses. “I really feel for our independent Aussie wholesale clients,” he adds. “Not only do they battle with very high rents by global standards, they likewise have much higher costs than American retailers in areas such as staffing and utilities.” Couple that with Australian department store terms and conditions that McGuinness calls “demanding,” and it’s no wonder so many brands are crossing the Pacific. Odette Williams, a Sydney native and founder of her own Brooklyn-based eponymous organic cotton and accessories brand, says that process became much more painless when the E-3 visa, specifically for Australians, was signed into law in 2005. “Now, more than ever, there’s an opportunity to reach this audience directly,” she says. “You can work in the states easier, so now is the time to start your own business.” While more sales opportunities beef up brand potential in the states, Edward Andrew, CEO of 1-year-old bohemian girls’ line Dimity Bourke, notes a strong American presence is also the first step to conquering other markets. “A brand that proves itself in the U.S. market will also open doors to Europe and Asia simply by being noticed by both retailers and consumers alike. The U.S. market is extremely empowering in providing brand awareness to the rest of the world.” McGuinness agrees, noting that Paper Wings’ early success in the U.S. was one of the main factors in building the brand’s global reputation. And for some brands, that success comes easily—Americans just can’t resist those down-under duds. Unique colors, a standout style and a sense of fun, says Andrew, are all characteristic of Australian designs, and that look translates well with U.S. shoppers. “We provide a slightly different take on European and American styles. Coming from a country known for its warm climate, relaxed lifestyle and strong work ethic resonates with an American audience, especially in childrenswear, where fun and wearability are paramount,” he states. Launching overseas, though, doesn’t come without its challenges. At the forefront is adjusting to the reversed seasons, which Peta Stinson says her organic cotton baby brand, Sapling Child, handles by making summer and winter styles available year-round. And the more successful a brand becomes in the U.S., McGuinness offers, the more difficult it is to manage the inverted seasons, so Paper Wings provides two separate lookbooks—one for each hemisphere. “It requires a great deal of planning, patience, investment, fast learning and a very thick skin,” McGuinness says of succeeding in the American market, a process he compares to a marathon rather than a sprint. “U.S. buyers are willing to try new labels, but they’re smart enough to wait for a rookie to prove their supply chain reliability before they commit,” he continues. “Turns out, overnight success doesn’t happen overnight.”—Samantha Sciarrotta
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TIM- PLEASE BUTT RULE TO SHIRT
HOT PROPERTIES
Picture Perfect
Eric Carle’s iconic characters pop up on an array of new products.
Smooth Sailing
Harbor lines up deals with Ccilu and Marc Ecko for kids’ kicks. ADDING TO A portfolio that already includes the likes of G.H. Bass, Izod and GBX, Harbor Footwear Group, Ltd. recently inked a multi-year deal to produce Ccilu’s men’s, women’s and kids’ collections starting in Spring ’15. The company also came to an agreement with Iconix, under its Marc Ecko Cut & Sew brand, to create a men’s line for spring and a boys’ collection to follow in the coming seasons. “Each brand is so different from the other,” says Barry Specht, vice president of marketing at Harbor. “They both bring different ideas to the marketplace. We feel we’re the appropriate company for that,” adding that the two lines will fit in well with Harbor’s existing offerings. Consisting of flip-flops, slip-ons, flats and canvas sneakers in a rainbow of colors, Ccilu’s spring kids’ collection utilizes TPU, leather, canvas and the brand’s signature Ccilucell technology, a lightweight, abrasion-resistant, eco-friendly material. “Ccilu is very different from what’s on the market,” Specht adds. For more information, contact Barry Specht at barry.specht@harborftw. com. —Samantha Sciarrotta
AFTER A SUCCESSFUL run with infant and toddler apparel in Australia, Germany and the U.K., the World of Eric Carle is debuting new clothing items with three different partners—Gymboree, Intimo and H.I.S. Juveniles— for Fall ’14 and Spring ’15. While the property is already successful in the states as far as toys, games and other products go, Debra Joester, CEO of the Joester Loria Group, the World of Eric Carle’s licensing agent, says clothing is the logical next step. “The relationship three generations have with Eric Carle’s books lays the foundation for the brand, while his iconic characters and distinct artwork work beautifully on apparel,”
Baby Boom
Jockey jumps into infant apparel, with help from Gerber. WHEN JOCKEY AND Gerber first partnered for a boys’ and girls’ underwear line eight years ago, Jockey Vice President of Licensing
she adds. First, Gymboree will offer a line of playwear and sleepwear separates and sets for toddlers, debuting in the fall, in addition to plush characters and books. The line will retail for $15 for playwear to $42.92 for adult sleepwear. From Intimo comes toddler sleepwear, T-shirts and ponchos, and H.I.S. adds to its existing infant travel product license with a wide range of items including blankets, bibs, one-pieces, towels and boxed layette gift sets. The Intimo products retail for $24.80 to $38, while the H.I.S. items are $9.99 to $29.99. E-mail Debra Joester at djoester@tjlgroup. com to learn more. —S.S.
Milou Gwyn says moving into toddler and baby products was always part of the plan— and now the two brands are ready to unveil their first baby collaboration for Fall ’14. “We knew what a great partner Gerber was in terms of their quality of design and retail relationships,” she says. “We wanted to start with boys’ and girls’ items first, then build off of that. It was an easy decision.” The line consists of boys’ and girls’ bodysuits, pant sets and sleep ‘n’ play sets, available in bright magentas, soft pinks and sky blues with elephant appliqués for girls, while boys’ apparel features helicopters and airplanes on a teal, navy and lime color palette. “We wanted a really unique visual that was still really commercial,” Gwyn notes. “Gerber dialed up the colors to a level of vibrancy you don’t normally see in baby, but it isn’t overwhelming. They’re more energetic colors.” Functional features like shoulder flaps and two sets of snaps in the crotch that allow the garment to grow add an update to the traditional bodysuit, while sleep ‘n’ play sets come with either a bib or hat. Retail prices range from $20 to $26. Bodysuits are available in sizes 0-3 to 24 months, while sleep ‘n’ play sets go up to 6-9 months. For more information, reach out to Milou Gwyn at milou.gwyn@jockey.com. —S.S.
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HOT PROPERTIES
Rock Out
Classic rock legends find a new home on kids’ apparel and gear. WHILE THE AVERAGE toddler might not be tapping his toes to “Thunder Road” just yet, chances are he’ll be spotted in a Rolling Stones sweatshirt or Beatles bib years before he buys his first vinyl, as a growing gamut of kids’ companies add classic rock logos to their looks. From KISSthemed plush toys by Uglydoll to Rowdy Sprout’s Neil Young one-pieces, parents are paying homage to their music idols by outfitting their tots accordingly, says Lisa Streff, senior vice president of licensing at Epic Rights, whose properties include KISS, Aerosmith, Def Leppard, Jefferson
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Airplane and John Lennon. “Right now, classic rock is resonating with parents because they’re very fond of the artists they grew up with,” she explains. Laura Angotti, Rowdy Sprout’s founder, agrees, though she’s surprised that the popularity of some groups hasn’t waned since the brand’s 1999 launch. “It’s funny because I thought by now, bands popular then would no longer be popular today,” she observes. Angotti’s bestsellers include Beatles-themed tees as well as any products featuring AC/DC, Pink Floyd and the Grateful Dead. Streff reports that KISS is Epic’s top
property, recently signing deals with Junk Food Clothing, Hybrid Apparel and Impact Apparel, among others. “When you look at KISS as a band, it’s all about the theatrics,” she points out. “They have everything, from the makeup to the costume to the performance, and more kids are attending their shows than ever before.” And it’s not just clothes that are getting taken down for toddlers— even the music itself is receiving an update for the just-born set. Rockabye Baby offers lullaby renditions of over 60 artists, from the Beach Boys to Metallica. Founder Lisa Roth says perennials like U2,
The Beatles and Michael Jackson are top sellers. Like the clothing licenses, Roth notes that the line appeals to parents as well as baby. “I think it’s a way for a parent to hold on to their previous life before children, while they also get to share their values and preferences with their baby,” she adds. —S.S.
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RESH FINDS
Art Class
Most parents put their kids’ drawings on the fridge, but Londonbased mom of four Celsa Efroni decided to do one better. The sketches and scribbles of her children inspire her brand, Doodle Do, which launched last January and presents its sophomore collection next spring. Raglan tees, leggings and shorts are decorated with dragonflies, parrots, tall trees and more in a fresh palette of cyan blue, banana yellow and mint. The mostly-unisex pieces are made from organic cotton in a GOTS-approved factory in India. Sizes range from 0 to 7 years and wholesale prices range from $6.80 to $34. Visit www.ilovedoodledo.com.
Whimsical illustrations and playful prints adorn spring styles.
Wrapped Up
Made from 100 percent organic cotton jacquard, the new swaddle blanket line from Apple Park features two-ply muslin that’s 40 percent heavier than other double-layer swaddles. What’s more, each thread is yarn-dyed to achieve a greater vibrancy so the double-sided designs don’t fade with washing. Wholesaling for $17 each, the line comprises six styles in three colors and each swaddle comes packaged in a themed gift box. Visit www.applepark.com.
Global Love
Head Case
Fed up with finding only oversized floral headbands for her newborn daughter, Tracy Nguyen decided to put her frustration to good use and in Spring ’14 launched Rhyla, a range of simple cut-and-sew hair accessories. The line has since expanded to include bow ties for boys and is ramping up its retail presence in 2015. Production takes place in Los Angeles using both imported and domestic fabrics, trims and materials handpicked by Nguyen. All products come in two sizes (0-12 months and 1-11 years) and styles include braided suede bands, sailor knot turbans and bandanas. Wholesale prices range from $8 to $11. Check out www.rhyla.com.
Socially conscious Aloetree Kids is an organic and fair-trade clothing brand for boys and girls on a mission to combat child trafficking. Based in Washington, DC and in its second season, wholesale prices range from $12 to $16, and 5 percent of total sales go to Chab Dai, a nonprofit that helps at-risk children in Cambodia. Spanning onepieces and rompers in sizes 0-3 to 12-18 months to tees in sizes 2 to 8 years, each product is made using certified organic cotton colored with eco-friendly dyes and features a stitched felt appliqué of an animal character who offers encouraging words like “Dive Deep” and “Have Vision.” Go to www.aloetreekids.com.
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Cuddle Up
In partnership with the Woolmark Company, Aden + Anais has combined its award-winning muslin weave with Australian merino wool to bow the Pure Merino Muslin collection. The lightweight, breathable fabric is the brand’s first ever 100 percent merino muslin blend and offers the ultimate in softness for babies, especially for those with sensitive skin. Spanning swaddle and security blankets to sleeping bags and generously sized dream blankets, each product is available in three hand-dyed ombré patterns (sunset, seaside and horizon) and comes in a keepsake box with a built-in picture frame. Wholesale prices range from $37.50 to $200. Visit www.adenandanais.com.
Something Borrowed
An ode to India’s artisans and craftsmen, New York City-based Little Paisley People bows its first collection of handmade clothing and accessories for girls sizes 2 to 10 years in Spring ’15. The brand’s aim is to use traditional techniques in a contemporary fashion, with a quirky yet elegant twist. To that end, block prints adorn crop tops, skirts and open-back dresses, while whimsical illustrations can be found on casual tees, necklaces and hair accessories. Wholesale prices range from $10 to $45. Go to www.littlepaisleypeople.com.
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Millions of Colors skirt
Chaboukie leggings
Chewbeads Chewbeads necklace necklace
Florence Fancy dress
Petunia Pickle Bottom diaper bag
Blue Crush Childrenswear designers are riding a wave of blue this spring, generated in part by the azure hues that cooled down women’s runways at the likes of Peter Pilotto and Proenza Schouler this past fall. From Yves Klein blue to cerulean, cobalt and periwinkle, there are far more than fifty shades of the color making an appearance on everything from fedoras to diaper bags. Not to mention, chambray details, metallic accents and tie-dye patterns give the classic color a splash of new life—and will tempt shoppers to dive right in. —Tara Anne Dalbow
Marie-Chantal dress
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OnTrend
Livie & Luca shoe
Hucklebones dress
Shapes of Things jacket
Be Lucky sweatshirt
Looking Back It’s business in the front and party in the back this spring, as cutouts, zippers and graphics galore give kids’ garments a clever departing look. For girls, traditional ruffles, bows and buttons create closure interest while boys’ styles are modernized with bright images and bold geometric patterns stamped across the backs of tees, hoodies and tanks. Even accessories receive some behindthe-scenes attention to detail with the addition of accents on the heels of shoes and innovative new backpack shapes. Whether they are coming or going, little ones are sure to stand out this season. —T.A.D.
Hilda Henri dress
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Little Giraffe one piece Wolf & Rita shirt
Sapling Child leggings
Pennymeade dress
Suoak dress
ILoveGorgeous cardigan
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Q& A
Stepping Ahead After acquiring the rights to Robeez last year, David and Mark McCubbin began implementing big improvements to the beloved baby shoe brand— including an epic birthday bash this month in honor of its 20th anniversary and much more to come next year. BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO In 2004, McCubbin made his first foray into trying to purchase the business, by meeting with thenMark (left) and David McCubbin owner and founder, Sandra Wilson. The partnership didn’t work out at the time, but he didn’t give up. AVID MCCUBBIN MAY be a soft-spoken Midwesterner, He knew that Robeez, known for making the first soft-sole infant prebut he knows that sometimes you need to be loud. Think walkers, would fit perfectly into his company’s portfolio of legendary Jumbotron-in-Times Square loud. brands. So when Stride Rite acquired Robeez in 2007, he made his pitch Then again, it’s not every day that a cherished chilagain to Stride Rite’s president. It earned McCubbin the rights to make dren’s footwear brand turns 20, especially in today’s hosiery for Robeez in 2010, and in 2013, his persistence at last paid off, turbulent market. So when Robeez reaches its second when the company took over the Robeez brand. decade in business this month, McCubbin has quite the celebration in But McCubbin’s journey actually goes back far more than a decade— mind, including a party starring Melissa Rycroft of The Bachelor, and to his childhood days sweeping floors, putting up stock and packing yes, that very big ad in the heart of the Big Apple. and selling orders for McCubbin Hosiery, the company his grandfaIt all makes sense when he explains the long journey that led to his ther, Chester F. McCubbin, incorporated in 1952 in Oklahoma City, OK. company acquiring the rights to produce products under the Robeez Along with his brother, Mark, the company’s current CEO, McCubbin name. As the 32-year president of McCubbin Hosiery, which produces learned the ins and outs of the hosiery business. “I worked summers socks and tights for the likes of Keds and Stride Rite, the industry vet is through high school, doing anything from warehouse distribution to certainly no stranger to working with iconic brands. Even so, it took him sales,” he recalls. “In the summer months in college, I was on the road more than 10 years to acquire the coveted rights to Robeez’ footwear. selling socks.” 1 6 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • O C T O B E R 2 0 1 4
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Originally, McCubbin didn’t plan to join the family business after graduating from college in 1980. But when his grandfather passed away in 1976, and his grandmother became ill, he knew his help was needed. So in 1982, after his grandmother passed away, he and his brother took ownership—at the ages of 24 and 25. At the time, the company had less than 20 employees and earned less than $20 million in sales a year—50 percent of those sales with one customer, C.R. Anthony Co., a chain of independent department stores that went bankrupt in 1986. The master of measured understatement, McCubbin admits it wasn’t “an ideal situation” for two twentysomethings still learning the ropes. Yet, as a testament to the brothers’ savvy, they began to make moves that helped propel the company to its current success, which includes more than $70 million in sales annually to a wide range of specialty and department stores. First, sensing the decline of American manufacturing, they moved production offshore in the mid-’90s. Second, they began to focus exclusively on the children’s market, earning a reputation for quality, affordable kids’ socks and tights—a reputation that attracted companies like Stride Rite, Keds, Absorba and eventually Robeez. It didn’t take long for the McCubbin brothers to prove why they’re the perfect people to lead Robeez: Before the deal was even announced, they were busy refreshing the product with an array of new designs—an improvement that has already led to a double-digit increase in sales. And McCubbin hints there’s much more in the pipeline, including accessories and possibly apparel. Here, he discusses how his team is revamping Robeez and why he believes its big 2-0 is only the beginning of exciting things to come. What makes brands like Stride Rite and Robeez gravitate toward McCubbin for hosiery? I think we have four things that really make our company stand out: First, we have a great front-end sales team. Second, our design team is second to none. Third, our licensed brands are iconic. And I would say our sourcing is the fourth. We’ve been sourcing offshore since the mid-’90s, while most of our competitors were manufacturing in America up until the early ’00s. I think it’s helped us have the best quality product at the best prices. You acquired the Robeez footwear license last year. Was it a challenge to tackle a new market? It’s not exactly a new arena for us—McCubbin
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was a soft-sole footwear company prior to the Robeez license. We picked up the Stride Rite slipper license in 2004, and we have been making pre-walkers for other customers, most of it private label. I think the Robeez brand just gave us a great vehicle to demonstrate our talents. How did you convince Robeez to hand over the reins? That’s one of my favorite stories. I flew to Vancouver in 2004 to meet Sandra Wilson, who at that time was the owner and founder of Robeez. I was hoping to get the license to make socks for the brand, but it didn’t work out. I think they were concerned about coordinating the market strategy between their reps and our reps. In 2007, Robeez sold the brand to Stride Rite, and I still happened to have the same proposal I had given Sandra in 2004. I had it on the president’s desk on the very same day! It took three more years to finally get the hosiery license, in 2010. And in 2013, we were very excited to get the exclusive rights over everything—especially since I have loved the brand and have been pursuing it for so long. The whole company is excited, because they’ve been listening to me obsess about it for 10 years. [Laughs.] Your persistence paid off! What made you so determined to buy the Robeez brand? We’re all about iconic brands, and I think it just fits really well within our portfolio. It’s the original soft-sole shoe. Just look at our other brands: Stride Rite dates back to 1919 and Keds was founded in 1916. Similar to those brands, Robeez is all about fit and quality. It’s about making products that moms and babies love. It simply fits what we like to do.
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Did McCubbin make any changes to the brand after taking over in 2013? Starting out, it was all about product. The brand needed a freshie, as we say. It was getting a little stale, no question about it. The consumer needed a new reason to look at it and buy it. One of the best decisions I made was listening to our new brand manager, who said the most important thing we could do is spend money up front on improving the product. We worked on enhancing the design and tweaking the packaging for several months before we officially took over, so we could hit the ground running with a fabulous product. How about the brand’s marketing strategy? Any big changes? Product was our first priority, but marketing was second—that’s what we’re working on this year. We have a big 20th anniversary bash
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this month, in New York City. Sandra Wilson, the founder, will be attending, as well as Melissa Rycroft from The Bachelor, along with her baby. We’ve even rented a Jumbotron in Times Square. Do the new plans include any forays into the social media sphere? Absolutely. Robeez had not been active in the social media space previously, so we re-launched the brand on Facebook and Twitter and created an Instagram presence.
UP CLOSE WITH DAVID MCCUBBIN What’s your favorite hometown memory? I would probably say attending the school where my dad was a teacher. I was very fond of the school and having my dad up there was fun. My brother and I like to say we have education and socks in our blood.
What’s your favorite way to Do you think it’s a key way to marspend a free afternoon? ket to moms? I have four daughters in their I think it’s absolutely essential. Today’s 20s and early 30s—one lives mom is connected. She uses social in Boston, one lives in New media to engage with the brands that York City and two live in are meaningful to her. And social media Oklahoma City. It’s tough gethas really become a dominant means of educating the consumer, engaging the consumer and promoting your product. We want to be relevant to today’s young mom, and we know that she’s looking to brands like Aden + Anais, Skip Hop and KicKee Pants, who have a strong online presence through social media, so it’s natural that we would build our following that way.
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ting everybody together, so I love our family dinners. We have a great time. I basically just cook on the grill, open the wine and get entertained. What are you reading right now? I just finished George F. Will’s book on Chicago and Wrigley Field, A Nice Little Place on the North Side: Wrigley Field at One Hundred. What three things could you never live without? My iPad, my phone and a glass of red wine.
Where is Robeez carried at retail? It’s carried at specialty stores throughout the U.S., Canada and Europe, as well as select department stores like Nordstrom and Von Maur. It’s also at Fred Segal, as well as online at Amazon and Zappos. And we’re also direct to consumer through the Robeez website—our first foray into direct to consumer for McCubbin—and it’s been fantastic. We’re up by double digits this year over last. It’s been a great way to talk directly to the consumer and show off our brand. Do you have any plans to change the retail strategy? I can see us going for more global penetration in the next few years, but you won’t see Robeez at the mass level. We will continue to focus on the specialty market, as well as increasing our penetration at the department store level and with the dot-coms.
What’s the biggest challenge for Robeez right now? Our biggest challenge is that the consumer is 2-years-old—so we constantly need to catch the attention of the new mom and educate her
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about the brand. It’s also a challenge to stay on trend and appeal to the shifting tastes of the modern mom. Plus, with an iconic brand like Robeez, you’ve got to please the traditional mom, who loves the Robeez that everyone knows, and you’ve got to please the new modern mom, who wants something a little different. Then the question becomes: How big of a line do you want to have? And you have to stay true to your brand identity, too. Exactly. Robeez has traditionally been known for a leather upper, and that’s still the hallmark of the brand. But we’ve been experimenting with some canvas uppers that really take their cue from what moms and dads are wearing in the spring and summer months. That mini-me look has definitely resonated with our customers. The modern mom is style savvy, and the mini-me looks that we’ve put forward—whether it’s a high-top sneaker in boys or our take on a ballet flat for girls—is just another way she can translate adult looks down to her child. Do you find that any particular styles resonate more in specific geographic areas? Boots and causal looks do really well in Canada, but other than that it’s dependent on the individual stores. What Nordstrom sells, Von Maur may not. Our new camo-print slip-on, for example, has been a huge hit with Nordstrom. And if you think of Nordstrom as a destination retailer for that modern mom, it makes sense. How were sales this year? This is our second year with the pre-walkers, and we’ve seen a doubledigit increase at wholesale as well as direct to consumer. We’re extremely
pleased with that kind of growth in this economy, and we see no reason why it won’t continue. And we’re excited about re-launching the Disney collection this fall. Thanks to that and our 20th anniversary celebration this month, we’re seeing a lot of brand awareness right now. Definitely! Tell me more about the Disney collection. Disney and Robeez had a co-branding relationship prior to us taking over the license, and Disney was really excited when we approached them about revisiting the collection. We’re using classic Disney icons, like Mickey, Minnie and Winnie the Pooh, and merging them with our Robeez functionality and our design sensibilities. It’s really fun, and we’ve gotten a great response from Amazon, Zappos and Diapers.com. So you’ve got a new Disney collection and a big anniversary bash in 2014. How does next year look? It looks great. We’re working on brand extensions for Robeez, including accessories and possibly some clothes for the brand. And increasing our global penetration is important, too. Asia intrigues us as an untapped market. We have a lot of Asian customers who buy direct to consumer, or on the West Coast, so we know that’s a market we can explore. Are you looking to add more brands to the McCubbin portfolio? We’re always looking for iconic brands that would sit well within our portfolio. Our next hosiery license will probably be in the adult market. I just love working with licensed brands. I love the relationships we have with everyone from Stride Rite to Keds, from the presidents of those companies down to the design teams. •
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Twin Set As children look more and more to their parents for fashion inspiration (Or is it the other way around?), Mommy and Me styles are a hot commodity. BY SAMANTHA SCIARROTTA
Ryleigh Rue offers matching looks for mom and tot.
N THE NOT-so-distant past, matching outfits with mommy was nightmare fuel for many a kid and tween. Chances are you remember—not so fondly—holiday gatherings spent decked out in coordinating color palettes and family photos in matching outfits. But now, as kids’ clothing skews towards a more grownup aesthetic, matching mom and dad doesn’t carry the same stigma it might have in the past, and a growing number of brands are selling complementary products for children and their parents. “Young girls especially have always idolized older girls, but now they’re exposed to more of the world’s offerings through television and the Internet,” says Kalyn Waters, director of marketing for Minnetonka, which offers a full
line of shoes for boys, girls, men and women. “Women are also dressing younger and looking toward millennials. We’ve seen the gap between women’s and kids’ styles grow so much smaller.” Which is why brands like Melissa, Flit and Flitter, Mustard Pie and more are designing complementary kids’ and adult looks. Take Chooze, for example. Launched in 2011, the mix-and-match shoe brand started off selling only boys’ and girls’ products. But as the
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line became more visible, CEO Sharon Blumberg found that more and more moms wanted in on Chooze’s offerings. “Once we started building out a Facebook fan page, so many moms started writing us because they wanted their own pairs,” she remembers. “They really caught on, even before our launch.” And though Blumberg doesn’t consider Chooze to be a Mommy and Me brand per se, it still racks up plenty of matching purchases. “We see lots of orders that consist of kids’ and women’s shoes in overlapping prints, and lots of moms and daughters send us pictures in their matching shoes,” she adds. For her brand, it’s more about moms getting in touch with their inner child rather than kids taking a more mature fashion stance. “I always hear in the industry that kids want to dress like their parents, but we’ve really seen the parents as the ones who don’t want to grow up,” she comments. Adriene Sanchez, owner of online store Menmommy.com, says matching outfits give busy parents a way to bond with their tots. “There are a lot of working moms out there right now,” she points out. “I think they have a desire to really connect with kids in whatever way they can. Kids really like it when they’re matching with their moms. Girls just light up, and it really fosters a bond.” Want to capitalize on the coordinating concept? Here’s how. START SMALL When Amy Martini opened Me & Mommy 13 years ago in Myrtle Beach, SC, she initially sold only kids’ clothing. But after a steadily increasing number of moms made offhand comments about wanting to buy items for themselves, Martini decided to capitalize and introduced a small assortment of adult-sized products. “I started small, and then as it became profitable, I added a little more.” Now, seven years later, the store has a full selection of baby, boys’, girls’ and women’s clothes, from kids’ brands like Kissy Kissy to women’s brands like Judith March. And, of course, she offers lines that produce a full range of girls’ and women’s sizes, such as Girlfriends by Anita G and Hatley. “It was the best move I could have made,” reports Martini, noting that the women’s styles, both complementary and stand-alone, have been wildly successful since she added them to her inventory. Brands like Flit and Flitter and Mustard Pie fly off the shelves, especially around holidays like Mother’s Day, Easter and Christmas. “Plus, since we’re in a beach resort, we have a lot of people coming in looking for things to wear in beach portraits,” Martini notes. For kids’ retailers looking to add womenswear to their inventory, Martini recommends taking the experimental route. “Start small, that way you can feel out your own market to see if it works,” she advises. Test the waters with classic, familiar styles first—customers tend to stick with what they know. Susan Silverstein, a buyer for New Jersey boutique Marcia’s Attic, says jewelry looks like Chan Lu-inspired wrap bracelets, pearls and anything on a leather cord, as well as slip-on metallic sneakers and gladiator sandals by brands like Sam Edelman—“adult takedowns for the mini mommy,” she states—are popular with both moms and daughters. Sandals and ballerina flats, continues Levy, are also good bets—they’re >38
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Contact T: 727-204-2723 E: sales@dennisemarie.net www.platypusaustralia.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMANDA PRATT Wolf & Rita top, Lulaland tropicalprint skirt; Anaïs & I jacket and swim top, Nico Nico skirt; Wolf & Rita jacket over model’s own halter top, Anaïs & I skirt, jewelry and hair accessories throughout by prop stylist.
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From left: Lulaland blouse and skirt; Ana誰s & I button-down, Milibe Copenhagen trousers; Lulaland blouse and Ana誰s & I skirt, Mercura NYC sunglasses throughout.
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Lemon Loves Lime ruffle top, Lulaland skirt, Bloch ballet flats; Ana誰s & I top, Lulaland skirt. Opposite page: Hannah Banana tank top, Lulaland skirt. Hair and makeup: Yuko Mizuno @ Rona Represents Prop stylist: Cecilia Elguero Stylist: Annie Caruso
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tropic thunder PA L M FAUN S , P I NE A P P LE S A N D P LU MAGE TA KE TOTS ON A TR I P TO PA RADISE. P H OTO G R A P H Y BY TR E V E TT MCCA N D LI SS . STYLI N G BY TA R A A N N E DALBOW. Clockwise from top left: Chaser tank top, Rachel Riley dress, Feather 4 Arrow T-shirt, Betsey Johnson sunglasses, Milk on the Rocks sneaker, Emma Levine top.
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Clockwise from top left: Peace of Cake sunhat, Little Miss Galia crop top, BabyLegs legwarmers. Maรก sneaker, Mayoral dress.
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SPRING/SUMMER ’15
ACCESSORIES PREVIEW
After last year’s polar vortex, spring’s accessories read like an atlas. Designers, determined to take us away from the land of ice and snow, travel to the far ends of the earth to find embellishments, prints and colors sure to warm up kids’ looks in 2015. New color palettes are pioneered while classic, retro-inspired patterns are revisited, and easy, breezy outfit updates such as straw fedoras and linen scarves reign supreme. Ready for the ride? We asked experts from across the industry to give us a sneak peek at next spring’s accessory itinerary. —Tara Anne Dalbow
Pastels Go Pop
Bottleblond
Tadpole & Lily
TreasureMap
The pale pastels of Jason Wu and Rag & Bone’s Spring ’14 collections were amped up for Spring 2015 by the likes of Thom Browne and a whole deluge of childrenswear designers. Tanya Lucadamo, childrenswear editor at Fashion Snoops, describes the palette as “muted and distressed neons.” Shades of acid yellow, lime green, fluorescent pink and blinding blue are taken down from electric to eye-poppingly elegant. Still not convinced that such a color exists? Take a peek at spring’s prettiest purses, necklaces and hair accessories, all in the season’s most sought-after new hues.
Suoak Hello Shiso
Shine On
Betsey Johnson
This season’s accessories are as good as gold (or bronze, copper or silver). A luster once reserved for jewelry is now shining light on bowties and bags alike. Maryline Price, head of brand communications for AlexandAlexa, notes that metallic and foil finishes are key for Spring ’15. And the gold standard extends beyond the go-to shades of silver and gold, lending pink and violet precious metal qualities. These high wattage hues are sure to give boys and girls the confidence to shine bright all season long.
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Fashion Angels
Charm it! by High IntenCity
Island Fever
In hopes of transporting kids out of what may be another cold spring, children’s accessory designers take tots for a spin in a tropical paradise chock full of palm fauns and pineapples. As Lucadamo explains, “Tropical prints get more of a retro vibe with vintage kitsch and summer fruits and vegetable patterns.” Gleaning inspiration from ’50s-era glamour, bold graphics and bright colors reign supreme. Price adds that flamingoes and pineapples will be the most popular motifs for both boys and girls.
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SPRING/SUMMER ’15
ACCESSORIES PREVIEW
Peppercorn Kids Little Paisley People
Spot On
Milk & Soda
Everbloom
Wanderlust
Accessories festooned with pompoms, fringe and tassels play to the exotic trend that swept through womenswear this past spring. Reinterpreted for the children’s market in bright colors and simple designs, the styles continue to conjure images of distant lands. Olivier Bremond and Thorunn Anspach, owners of New York City-based boutique Kisan, agree that tassels and pompoms will be extremely important to both the jewelry and hair accessory categories this spring. Plundering all four corners of the globe for embellishment inspiration, expect children’s accessories to move to the beat of a tribal drum.
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A timeless womenswear staple is brought to life in the children’s market with ferocious enthusiasm, as spots and stripes inspired by lions, tigers and zebras can be found on everything from belts and bags to bows and scarves. Associated with glamour and sophistication, faux feline furs and prints will have little ladies seeing spots. Price notes that the trend is sure to persevere through winter well into spring—updating every silhouette in its wake.
Rhyla
Neon Rae
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All that Glitters
Andy & Evan
Baby Banz
Tutu Du Monde
Spring ’15 accessories prove that all that glitters isn’t gold— it’s actually pink, purple and blue. The arts and craft mainstay is updating purses and sunglasses alike. Perfect for giving a neutral outfit a sprinkling of glam, this season even boys can steal the spotlight with sparkling shoe accessories begging to give beat-up sneakers a lightning-fast update. Price notes that glitter will take new shapes this season while Lucadamo confirms that sunglasses with glittery frames will have a big moment.
Shwings
Couture Clips
Festival Fashions
The annual Wisconsin music festival, Summerfest, attracted almost one million patrons last year and with California-based Coachella close behind with 675,000 attendees, it’s safe to say that the music festival industry is booming. And festival fashion trends are growing just as popular. Lucadamo explains, “The Boho trend from last spring goes more summer festival style—think straw fedoras and plenty of lightweight scarfs.” She even predicts the two aforementioned accessories will be the most popular of the season. Flowers, feathers, dip-dye patterns and denim details will also contribute to the choir.
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Sons + Daughters
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BEHIND THE SEAMS APPAREL
Growth Spurt How a small-town stand selling fanciful frocks grew into a thriving business.
F
IVE SUMMERS AGO, Craig Rickenbach, his wife, Corinne, and their five children spent every Wednesday selling their homegrown clothing brand, Persnickety, at a farmer’s market in Park City, UT. Back in those days, they never anticipated that by the fall of 2014 their basement business would have 22 employees. “It’s kind of gone beyond our wildest dreams!” laughs Rickenbach, the company’s president and CEO. Since its wholesale launch in Fall ’10, Persnickety is now carried in close to 300 childrenswear boutiques across the United States and online. So what is it about the whimsical clothing that’s captivated consumers and buyers alike? According to Rickenbach, it’s all in the details. “We’re always trying to surprise the customer, whether it’s with pleating or a detailed lining or a trim, and we never really duplicate what we’ve done in the past,” he says, calling Corinne the brand’s “creative engine.” For Spring ’15, that means targeting girls ages 0-3 months to 12 years with more prints, more ruffles and more appliqués, as well as a new wide leg pant called Attley that comes in floral or solid colorways. The brand has also updated its knits with a pima cotton-modal blend for improved comfort and durability. “From the get-go, we’ve tried to provide knits and wovens that will wash well and hold their color,” he adds. And while Persnickety is intent on growing its retail base in the coming years, Rickenbach doesn’t want “more people fishing in the same pond.” Rather, he sees “tremendous” opportunity with his current partners, many located in Texas, Arkansas and Georgia. That’s why this fall the company is sending additional product on a consignment basis to a selection of its retailers and urging them to host in-
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store events to move it. “If it’s successful, we think we can increase orders by 50 percent,” he notes, adding that if brick-andmortars offered styles in a wider variety of sizes, then consumers would be less likely to turn to online outlets. Though Persnickety may be bigger with bolder ambitions, it still manages to maintain its same small-town ideals. The clothes are no longer crafted in Rickenbach’s basement in American Fork, but the brand’s wares are still American-made, in factories in Utah and California. Meanwhile, its Buying is Giving program donates a portion of proceeds to outfit children in need in Nicaragua and Honduras with school uniforms made from locally-sourced fabrics and sewn by seamstresses in the community who are then compensated with fair wages. “Charitable giving is, and will continue to be, a major part of our mission,” he confirms. —Lyndsay McGregor
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Girls Club Limeapple gears up for Spring ’15 with a bevy of bold prints and colors.
SPORTSWEAR AS STREET wear may be having a major moment thanks to the likes of Tom Ford and Miu Miu, both of which sent athletic-inspired apparel down the runway in Fall ’14—but it’s business as usual at Limeapple. Since launching in 2002 with its Girl & Co. by Limeapple line, the Canadian company hasn’t strayed too far from its mission: offering fun, functional and comfortable clothing for girls who are always on the move. As Debbie Naren, creator and CEO, puts it, “I’m determined to help girls feel their best.” Originally a denim-driven label, it gradually grew to provide girls ages 4 to 14 with pieces primed for school or play, and the company’s offering swiftly expanded to include active wear (Limeapple Sport), swim (Limeapple Swim) and baby (Little Lime). “People are much more aware of health and wellness than ever before,” says Naren, who left an IT career to launch Limeapple because she wanted to create something suitable for her daughters’ onthe-go lifestyles. “We provide girls with stylish yet comfortable clothing that can be worn all day,” she adds. True to form, next season’s offering spans bright hues, fun prints and bold basics across all four lines. Highlights of the Girl & Co. collection include Mondrianinspired dresses in tropical colorways, crochet shorts and pretty crepe chiffon party dresses, while Little Lime has introduced
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top and legging sets in sizes 12 months to 6X that come in a kaleidoscope of quirky color combos and prints. “We’ve noticed an increase in demand for our rash guards with customers getting more concerned about UV rays and what they do to children’s skin,” Naren shares, adding that in Spring ’15 all Limeapple Swim pieces will be made from UPF 50+ fabric, which blocks up to 98 percent of the sun’s rays. Meanwhile, Limeapple Sport’s extensive range of active wear has been updated with a moisturewicking fabric featuring four-way stretch with anti-pilling, so girls can stay comfy and cool whether they’re working up a sweat or chilling out at home. Currently carried in over 800 stores, including Plaid Giraffe in Guntersville, AL, Uptown Kids in Oklahoma City, OK, and Kid & Kaboodle in Orleans, MA, Naren says she’s pleased with how her lines perform at retail. “We don’t try to compete for the tween dollars but rather concentrate on age-appropriate clothing,” she says. And, as a mom herself, she works hard to keep the line’s apparel affordable for parents who have to buy new clothing for their growing children every year. That’s why Limeapple’s lines wholesale from $8 to $29. Another reason for the brand’s success, she points out, is that she holds focus groups with girls ages 7 to 10 to get their opinions on upcoming collections. “We usually get input on fabric types, styles and colors from the girls, and it helps us to be confident that our products will be received well at retail with great sell-through,” she notes, adding that at the end of the day, the opinions of those young, active girls are the only ones that matter. —L.M.
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BEHIND THE SEAMS APPAREL
Slow Lane
Dedicated to preserving traditional techniques, Lali launches a line of handmade clothing for girls next spring. SOME SCENTS ARE so strongly linked to childhood memories that one whiff is all it takes to instantly trigger nostalgia. That’s what happened when Kinnari McDevitt visited her native India a few years ago. Bombarded by aromatic frangrances, she was suddenly pulled back to a childhood surrounded by bright saris and bustling fabric stores. The rise of mass production, however, meant that those once-hectic shops were on the brink of extinction, as were the artisans that relied on their support. McDevitt knew that meanwhile, back in the United States, most stores were overflowing with throwaway fashion for children— a far cry from the days of her own youth, filled with favorites she happily wore over and over. “I wanted to bring back that feeling again,”
she shares. Thus, Lali was born. Meaning “little darling” in Hindi and launching in Spring ’15, the brand’s goal is to intentionally slow down the process of making and wearing clothing. Comprising dresses, whimsical skirts and easy rompers for girls sizes 2 to 8 years, the carefully crafted inaugural collection walks the line between contemporary design and traditional sensibility and comes in a pretty pastel palette injected here and there with a shot of juicy pink and orange. The versatile pieces, which wholesale from $9.50 to $79, are made using artisanal fabrics such as Khadi (a hand-spun cotton), airy linen and French voile. More importantly, everything is done by hand by small-scale craftspeople in India. McDevitt recalls a conversation she recently had with one of her yarn-dyers about his trade. “He was telling me that he doesn’t want to pass the art on to his kids, because there aren’t many people who appreciate it any more,” she remembers. “My target customer is someone who appreciates quality and who doesn’t necessarily want their kids to have tons of clothes but who knows that what they do have is something that will stand the test of time and that their kids will really enjoy and want to wear.”—L.M.
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Garden Supply
Mulberribush has provided parents with age-appropriate ensembles for boys and girls for 23 years—and counting.
WHEN MULBERRIBUSH CO-OWNER David Feinberg and his wife, Susan, started selling illustrated T-shirts out of their Brooklyn, NY, home 23 years ago, they had no idea their cottage industry would one day expand to encompass three full lines and require a move to Bensalem, PA. “It was a side thing!” laughs Feinberg. “I was in the gift industry and Susan was an award-winning graphic designer. Childrenswear wasn’t something we ever planned to pursue.” What started in 1991 as a solution to the mundane designs the couple saw while shopping for their young son quickly gained traction—and before long they were shipping orders to Nordstrom from their kitchen. Fast-forward to today and the Feinbergs are veritable industry veterans. “The garment industry is one of the toughest industries out there,” states Feinberg, “because every season you have to start fresh, you have to bring something new to the table and the worst
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thing someone could tell you is that it looks like last season.” Over the years, the family-run Mulberribush has evolved to include Tumbleweed, a line for boys sizes 2T to 14 years, and Love U Lots, which targets girls sizes 12 months to 14 years. Next season the Mulberribush and Tumbleweed lines range from T-shirts featuring such perennially popular graphics as racecars and dump trucks to cargo shorts in plaids, stripes and solids, while flora and frills abound for Love U Lots, sprouting up on drop-waist dresses, ruffle skirts, tunics and more. Swimwear, meanwhile, dives into more silhouettes with two-pieces, one-pieces, rash guards and cover-ups in tropical colorways and prints. “Swim’s success was a nice surprise,” notes Feinberg. “It’s nice to see people are willing to pay a little extra for quality.” While Mulberribush started life as an American-made brand, Feinberg says it’s “impossible” to be 100 percent made in the U.S.A. today and remain price competitive. That’s why the company sources from all over the world to deliver the best price and quality to its customers. And even if the tag on a Mulberribush tee says “Made in Sri Lanka,” customers can be sure it was screen-printed stateside in the company’s silkscreen shop in Bensalem, Feinberg notes. “The market has evolved, but we’ve maintained our integrity.” —L.M.
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common styles that constantly receive updates, and they’re popular with both girls and their moms. DON’T DISREGARD DADS Moms and daughters are not the only ones who cop one another’s styles. Mother-son, father-son and father-daughter shoes and clothing are cropping up across the market. Amber Colleen of Footsteps Clothing, a matching family clothing brand based out of North Carolina, says her Daddy and Me items are actually the most popular in the line’s selection. “Maybe it’s because women are the primary shoppers,” she suggests. “They’re always looking for fun gifts for dads, whereas dads just run out and get flowers and candy.” Colleen says Footsteps started off as a strictly mother-daughter line in 2006, but quickly added Daddy and Me tees once requests started pouring in. “We’ve been adding new Daddy and Me designs to keep up with demand, addressing specific activities that fathers and sons do together, like fishing and golf,” Colleen offers. Nathan Romano, co-founder of men’s and boys’ line Onia, agrees. His coordinating swimsuits—the Charles for men and, fittingly, the Charlie for boys—are top sellers, and he often sees both styles come up in the same sale. However, Dads tend to prefer complementary color stories rather than identical outfits, he notes. “Dad might wear a solid blue trunk, and his son will wear that same suit in the same color, only with a print like gingham,” he explains. Aside from T-shirts and swim trunks, fashion accessories like ties and hats are a popular pick for a debonair Daddy and Me look. And don’t forget footwear—while Waters
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says Minnetonka’s coordinating styles are much more common with women and girls, men and boys are likely to pick up a matching pair of mocs, too. COMPLEMENTARY IS COOL While Mommy and Me looks may be on the rise, fewer parents are interested in matching right down to the socks. In fact, complementary styles tend to see more success on the sales floor than their matching counterparts. “What we’re finding is that they don’t want to match; they want to coordinate,” Romano says of the dads who seek out Onia’s swimwear. “There’s still that same sense of the takedown from the father’s style, but they’re not matching.” Martini points out that palazzo pants, in either matching prints or simply complementary colors, are her top-selling style for moms and daughters looking to mimic one another. Meanwhile, Silverstein says her customers put their own spin on matching outfits—think a funky-patterned, multicolor legging topped off with a teal blouse for mom and a bright pink peasant top for her daughter. Or, parents will select a matching pattern, like Splendid’s signature stripes, in different items of clothing. “Some brands offer a dress for girls in a certain pattern, and they’ll add a coordinating skirt for the mother,” observes Martini. “That way, it might cover the whole outfit for girls, but the mother will be able to choose her own top.” It gives mom a little more leeway to express her own personal style, she adds, while still allowing her daughter to feel grown up, even in her own, age-appropriate clothing.
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“THERE ARE ONLY A FEW SHORT YEARS MOMS CAN ENJOY DRESSING ALIKE BEFORE THEIR LITTLE ONES GROW UP, AND THEY ARE TAKING THAT OPPORTUNITY EVERY DAY.”
Looking for more ways to tone down matchy-matchy sets? Accessories could be the perfect cure. An understated pendant for mom and a chunky necklace for girls can go a long way towards altering an otherwise identical look if your customers aren’t in the mood for twin ensembles. “Generally, we see matching outfits with different accessories,” Silverstein says. Some of her bestsellers include brands like Vince, Central Park West and Sam, who all craft kids’ items that are exact takedowns from their adult lines. Other profitable brands sold in both stores include Design History, Young, Fabulous & Broke, Blank Jeans and Ella Moss, and coordinating sweaters, dressy jog pants with banded bottoms and Sam’s shiny down jackets, all in simple blacks, navys and grays, fly off the shelves. “It’s appealing [to shoppers] because it’s mostly adult lines that have branched into kids,” co-owner Trang Lio notes. However, some consumers love outfits that offer an exact match, observes Kristy Schlueter, buyer and marketer for Mommy and Me brand Ryleigh Rue Clothing. For bestsellers, she reports that the line’s identical dresses, leggings, tunic tops, leg warmers and boot socks are all at the top of the list. “There are only a few short years moms can enjoy dressing alike before their little ones grow up, and they are taking that opportunity every day,” Schlueter points out. KEEP IT TOGETHER To get more bang for your buck out of Mommy and Me clothing, shoes and accessories, Waters recommends stocking matching products in a vignette. “In a lot of stores, men’s, women’s and kids’ styles might be in separate areas, but planting them together helps cross promote and tease different ideas,” she points out. “Being able to see them together is a great opportunity to get the extra sale.” Blumberg agrees, adding that Chooze’s sales are higher when the full range of sizes are displayed together. “We have done very well when our shoes are paired together because we have a very distinct look,” she continues. “We always see success when stores display the shoes together. It’s a better opportunity to tell the full story of the brand.” If it’s not possible to merchandise Mommy and Me looks as a group, don’t despair. Some stores, like Marcia’s Attic, keep adult and kid sizes separate—as in across the street—and still see success with the concept. Silverstein and Lio say the transition happens more often than not, and when an item catches a mom’s eye in one store, the Marcia’s Attic staff simply sends her right across the street to the other—and picks up another sale. Keeping customers informed, Lio says, is the key to securing the sale. “If a mother comes in looking for Vince clothes for herself, we let her know that she can get the same thing for her daughter at the kids’ store,” she offers. And as long as you’re faithful to your store and your customers, Levy adds, you can’t go wrong with Mommy and Me. “Watch the market trends, but also keep true to yourself and the kids,” she suggests. “Make it fun, make it special and make it memorable. Have a fun presentation, environment and atmosphere—and good and appropriate product.” •
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the pulse
What the cool kids love… Five-year-old New Yorker Haileigh Vasquez has a closet most adults would covet.
Hucklebones
R
Tutu du Monde
Jacadi Mischka Aoki Ray-Ban Juniors
Disney Princess
Converse
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF ERICA CRUZ.
Mattel
AY-BAN AVIATORS? Check. Hair scooped up in a topknot? Check. Patterned pants and a casual tee topped off with an I-mean-business blazer? Check, check and check. You would be forgiven for thinking this describes the front row-worthy wardrobe of a top fashion editor, but it’s actually one of the most-liked looks on little Haileigh Vasquez’s Instagram, @hails_world. The pint-size style maven may be a mere 5 years old, but to her thousands of followers, she’s a fashion icon in the making—and Latina and Essence agree: Both magazines called her one of the most stylish kids on social media. Haileigh’s mom Zulay, who manages her Instagram account, started sharing her outfits in 2012 after she noticed how many compliments her then-toddler would get when they were out and about in New York City, but she says she never imagined this level of attention. (Haileigh now has more than 98,000 followers on the photo-sharing site.) Some mornings Haileigh picks out one piece from her closet, which Zulay then builds an outfit around, but mostly she prefers to play while her mom gets everything ready. Luckily the two rarely disagree: “I always look wonderful,” quips Haileigh. Her favorite store is J.Crew (“They always remember my name and have special treats for me like swirl lollipops.”), and she loves to wear dresses and skirts, especially tulle ones. “Because I can twirl in them like a true princess,” she giggles. When she’s not posing for photos she loves to swim, read and sing songs from her favorite movie, Frozen. And she hopes to be a pediatrician when she grows up. “I just love babies. They’re so cute and I want to make their hearts feel happy,” she says. —Lyndsay McGregor
4 0 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • O C T O B E R 2 0 1 4
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THE CHILDREN’S CLUB New York City Oct.19–21
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