Earnshaw's | October 2015 by Wainscot Media

SPRING ACCESSORIES GO BOLD

VOLUME 99 NUMBER 9

LATIN LESSONS

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HOW POP SHOPS

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F R A N C O I S VA C H O N O N C O C C O L I ' S W E L L- B A L A N C E D B U S I N E S S M O D E L

OCTOBER 201 5 $10.00

OCTOBER 2015 Noelle Heffernan Publisher Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief

FEATURES 14 Balancing Act Francois Vachon reveals the secret X[^_dZ 9eYYeb_Êi (& o[Whi e\ ikYY[ii0 h[if[Yj_d] j^[ XhWdZÊi beoWb h[jW_b[hi" Xej^ ebZ WdZ d[m$

28 Bold Move Dare to make a statement with the [o[#YWjY^_d] ijob[i _d ekh WddkWb Ifh_d] Ê', 7YY[iieh_[i Fh[l_[m$

FASHION 18 Spanish Accent Need a lesson in this summer’s BWj_d#_d\ki[Z beeai5 ¶L|cedei 4 Editor’s Note 6 JWba_d] Fe_dji 7 >ej Fhef[hj_[i 8 Fresh Finds 10 Ed Jh[dZ 34 8[^_dZ j^[ I[Wci 40 I^ef JWba

Limeapple tank top, Tuchinda skirt worn over Marin + Morgan skirt, Le Big flower hair clips, vintage cuff. On cover: Nobodinoz blouse, Lulaland skirt, stylist’s own floral headband. Photography by Trevett McCandliss. Styling by Tara Anne Dalbow. Hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/Utopia.

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors ;:?JEH?7B Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor Kirby Stirland Associate Editor Laurie Cone Associate Editor 7:L;HJ?I?D= Caroline Diaco =hekf FkXb_i^[h Jennifer Craig If[Y_Wb 7YYekdji Manager FHE:K9J?ED Tim Jones :[fkjo 7hj :_h[Yjeh Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster

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EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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editor’s note Five weeks in Parenthood 101 provides an illuminating take on what’s truly a newborn necessity.

WORKING IN THE children’s industry, you’d think I wouldn’t be surprised by the sheer amount of stuff that comes along with being a new cec$ J^_da W]W_d$ Living in New York City offers many wonderful benefits, but a surplus of living space simply isn’t one of them. When I first found out I was expecting, I was determined to ruthlessly “edit” my son’s belongings—only the best items on the market would make the cut. And after working in the industry for five years and talking to retailers and manufacturers on a daily basis, I thought I had a pretty good grip on the most practical, reliable and justplain-pretty products. Ha! My son’s room is stuffed to the brim with boxesupon-boxes of baby goodies. I feel like Ariel in The Little Mermaid: “You mWdj j^_d]WcWXeXi5 ?Êl[ ]ej (& È One of the blessings that comes along with being a new parent is the way friends and family all unite to help, sending along a plethora of practical staples like diapers and wipes (and pre-cooked meals!) as well as gorgeous décor and clothing. It goes to show why gifts, gear and baby apparel continue to be the bestselling merchandise for many children’s retailers—and why our industry offers such a wide array of mommy “must-haves.” A quick search ed 8WX_[i ÇHÈ Ki" \eh [nWcfb[" h[l[Wbi j^Wj j^[ h[jW_b[h i[bbi WhekdZ '&& Z_\ferent stroller and stroller accessory brands alone. And it seems like every month a new website like Cricket’s Circle or Lucie’s List pops up, promising to cut through the overwhelming clutter and provide the perfect registry advice for new moms. 8kj ^[h[Êi m^Wj de ed[ j[bbi d[m ceci WXekj j^ei[ ckij# haves: Your baby will have a pretty firm opinion regarding what he wants and needs, too. My little guy, for example, refuses all bottles and pacifiers. He was born m[_]^_d] Wbceij '& fekdZi" ie ^[ peec[Z ekj e\ d[mXehd Ybej^_d] W\j[h a week. He was allergic to the organic diaper brand I listed on my registry. (Anyone need a giant stack of diapers?) He loves to be rocked when he sleeps—until last night, that is, when he finally decided he wanted to sleep in his bassinet. He hates swaddles that restrict his arms. And as far as I can tell, he doesn’t mind that we purchased a mid-price stroller without all the bells and whistles of the high-end models. Moral of the story? It’s hard to predict what you will truly need until you’re in the trenches of new parenthood, learning what your little bundle of joy prefers. And as I’ve already discovered in just five short weeks, those preferences can change overnight. (So long Fisher-Price Rock ’n Play, hello Nuna Sena Mini!) What works for one mom may be completely superfluous for another, even if those moms lead a remarkably similar lifestyle. You can jWa[ Wi cWdo edb_d[ gk_pp[i Wi oek mWdj" Xkj _jÊi _cfeii_Xb[ je Yh[Wj[ W f[hfect registry. Just like—in a bit of wise advice my mother passed along after my inevitable panicked phone call—it’s impossible to be a perfect mother. J^[ edbo jhk[ d[mXehd d[Y[ii_jo _i kdYedZ_j_edWb bel[" WdZ j^Wda\kbbo j^WjÊi a renewable resource. As for children’s retailers, I’ve determined there is just one mommy musthave they should be sure to offer: A generous return policy.

Crash Course

AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

audrey.kingo@9threads.com

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Talking

Points How Pop Shops

As dads take on more parenting responsibilities, should children’s retailers rethink their key demographic?

HE MILLENNIAL GENERATION gets a lot of flak for suffering from arrested development, but the truth is, they’re growing up and starting families—in fact, as of (&')" j^[h[ m[h[ '&$. c_bb_ed K$I$ êki[êbZi e\ WZkbji W][Z (+ je )* m_j^ Y^_bZh[d" WYYehZ_d] je W ijkZo \hec WZ W][dYo 8Whab[o$ ?d fWhj_YkbWh" C_bb[dd_Wb ZWZi Wh[ stepping up and taking on a larger role in child rearing— and if, as research suggests, they’re planning more playdates, changing more diapers and doing more grocery shopping, they’re bound to be spending more time in children’s shops, too. 8kj ceij a_ZiÊ Xekj_gk[i l[[h Z[Y_Z[Zbo toward mom, with a vibe that Shannon 8he]Wd" Ye#emd[h e\ Y^_bZh[dÊi iêf Jme Crows for Joy, calls “fluffy and frou-frou.” J^Wj \[c_d_d[ WcX_WdY[ Wff[Wbi je j^[ jWh][j Z[ce]hWf^_Y1 8he]Wd iWoi j^[ cWèhity of customers at her Shaker Heights, E>#XWi[Z Xekj_gk[ Wh[ mec[d$ O[j i^[ admits times are changing: “Millennials, generally, have grown up with the need for both women and men to work in order to ikffehj j^[ \Wc_bo" m^_Y^ Yh[Wj[i [gkWb_jo$È Plus, she notes, the vast world of designoriented content on social media plat\ehci b_a[ F_dj[h[ij WdZ ?dijW]hWc ^Wi made it “more mainstream for all people to have an opinion on what looks good.” 9Wheb 7ZWci e\ D[m Oeha 9_jo Xekj_gk[ Jehbo A_Z iWoi i^[Êi Z[\_d_j[bo dej_Y[Z Wd uptick in dads shopping in her store over the last decade, crediting in part “the [growing] acceptance rate of non-traditional families,” i.e. same-sex couples and stay-at-home dads. John Lowe, a father of three who owns kids’ shop Junior Lowe in 8heeabod" DO" m^[h[ ^[ iWoi ^[Êi WbmWoi had a lot of dad customers), adds optimisj_YWbbo" Ç? ZedÊj j^_da W a_ZiÊ ijeh[ iêkbZ favor parent gender—it doesn’t make sense to me. We are in a movement to un-define all trends.” A_ZiÊ h[jW_b[hi mê mWdj je jWa[ WZlWdjW][ e\ j^_i ][d[hWj_edWb i^_\j would be wise to heed the many ways in which men and women shop dif\[h[djbo$ 7 ijkZo Xo Yecckd_YWj_edi \_hc Oekd] HkX_YWc \ekdZ j^Wj"

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for example, men are brand-loyal and willing to pay more for labels they trust. Also, they’re not typically bargain-hunters; only a third of dads say j^[o jho je Xko _j[ci ed iWb[ YecfWh[Z m_j^ ceh[ j^Wd ^Wb\ e\ ceci WdZ Wbceij ,& f[hY[dj ZedÊj ki[ Yekfedi$ Ç:WZi Wh[dÊj Wi ZWppb[Z Xo j^[ iWb[i and promotions that get moms in the store,” confirms Pam Goodfellow, Yedikc[h _di_]^ji Z_h[Yjeh Wj Fheif[h ?di_]^ji 7dWboj_Yi$ ÇM^[d W Millennial dad is out shopping, he’s concerned with convenience and ][jj_d] _d WdZ ekj gk_Yabo$È However, Goodfellow points out that men have a propensity to use j^[_h ceX_b[ Z[l_Y[i m^_b[ iêff_d]$ Ç?\ j^[oÊh[ _d W ijeh[" j^[oÊh[ b_a[bo to whip out their smartphone and check fh_Y[i Wj W Z_\\[h[dj ijeh["È i^[ [nfbW_di ie maybe price isn’t completely irrelevant). She suggests retailers should explore mobile checkout options to appeal to dads in a hurry. “A mom might wait in a line that’s '& f[efb[ Z[[f" Xkj W ZWZ c_]^j `kij fkj _j all down and walk out and go to the store next door,” she warns. And of course, an emphasis on good customer service benefits everyone— dads included. Adams finds dads particularly appreciate knowledgeable iWb[i ^[bf$ ÇJ^[o Wh[ kikWbbo l[ho ^Wffo to take advice from an associate. Even if they do understand and appreciate fashion, they usually defer to a female associate’s opinion when shopping,” she says. Goodfellow notes that dads may be more likely to take their kids shopping for necessities rather than browsing for the latest trends, so stores can cater to this by merchandising in a way that cWa[i j^_d]i [Wio$ Ç?j c_]^j X[ fkjj_d] j^[ XWi_Yi Wbb je][j^[hÆWbb j^[ `[Wdi eh J#i^_hji"È i^[ e\\[hi$ Some stereotypes, however, hold true \hec ][d[hWj_ed je ][d[hWj_ed$ Je m_j0 multiple studies over the years have found that men are more likely je fheYhWij_dWj[ j^Wd mec[d$ ?d 7ZWciÊ [nf[h_[dY[" j^WjÊi Z[\_d_j[bo j^[ YWi[" Wi i^[ dej[i" ÇJ^[ X_]][ij kfim_d] _d ZWZi iêff_d] _i j^[ j^h[[ ZWoi X[\eh[ 9^h_ijcWi$ ?d co iêf" WXekj .& f[hY[dj e\ co iWb[i Wh[ je c[d ed :[Y[cX[h ((" () WdZ (* È —Kirby Stirland

HOT PROPERTIES

Hug It Out

A Certain Charm Little Charmers makes magic with several new licensees.

Canadian animated TV series Little Charmers made a splash stateside when it premiered on Nick Jr. in January 2015, and now Hazel, Posie, Lavender and the gang will cast a spell on the children’s apparel industry, with a slew of new licensing partnerships for Spring ’16 spanning clothing, footwear, sleepwear, accessories and more. Bentex Group will produce a line of girls’ apparel, including T-shirts and swimwear for sizes 2T to 5T, wholesaling

for $3 to $6.95. Contact Susan Peia at 646-524-2825 for more information. SG Companies will offer sleepwear (in sizes 2T to 5T and 4 to 6x) and shoes (in sizes 4 to 12) for girls, wholesaling for $6.25 to $8.75 and $3.50 to $8.50 respectively. Other product lines include children’s bedding from Franco Manufacturing Company, backpacks from Accessory Innovations and jewelry and rain gear from Fantasia Accessories Ltd. —Kirby Stirland

Bunny Tales

Dutch cartoon Miffy hops onto a Kira Kids collection. When Dutch artist Dick Bruna dreamed up a cartoon rabbit to entertain his young son back in 1955, he never imagined his design would go on to enchant children and adults alike across the globe. But in the 60 years since her creation, Miffy has done just that, appearing in books, musicals, a TV show and a movie. Now she’s set to make her mark on kids’ fashion, with a new collection from Kira Kids, available for wholesale purchasing. “We designed the Kira Kids x Miffy collection around the playfulness and simplicity of Dick Bruna’s classic Miffy artwork,” says Christine Tang, founder and creative director of Kira Kids. “Our whimsical hand-drawn style is a natural match with Miffy and our easy-towear organic cotton silhouettes are the

Cuddle up to new Huggy Buddha plushes from Gund Sometimes you just need a hug, and Gund’s new plushes for Dutch toymaker Huggy Buddha—which it will manufacture through a licensing partnership with Remarkable Brands—are just the thing. Huggy Buddha’s designs offer Buddhist-inspired messages of loving kindness, health and happiness in a kid-friendly format. “Sharing love and positivity through the simple act of a hug is what we’re all about as a company,” says Gund president Bruce Raiffe. “We’re confident that our customers will love the Huggy Buddha product as much as we do.” Gund’s Huggy Buddha line will include the brand’s signature Buddha plushes in gray, pink and blue, as well as backpack clips, activity blankets, sound toys and stationary for babies and children. Aimed at department stores and mid-tier specialty retailers, the line will wholesale for $6 to $15. The collection will launch in time for holiday 2015. Contact sales@gund.com or call 800-448-4863 for more information. —K.S.

Toy Story

Rashti & Rashti expands with Prestige Toy Corporation. perfect play clothes for young Miffy fans!” Miffy adorns the T-shirts, tank tops, shorts, pants, dresses and rompers that make up the unisex baby and girls’ collection for sizes newborn to 7/8. Items are made in Los Angeles from organic cotton in a palette of gray, black and eggplant and printed with non-toxic inks. Launching at specialty boutiques in February, the line will wholesale for $18 to $25. Contact hello@kirakids.com for more information. —K.S.

Get ready for an even larger plush toy offering from Rashti & Rashti. The esteemed baby product company has acquired Prestige Toy Corporation, maker of quality infant plushes, and with it, several top toy licenses, including The Elf on the Shelf, Fisher-Price and Sesame Street. “When we learned that the long-time owner of Prestige was looking to retire, we saw an opportunity that was not only good for our company but for the retail community,” says Rashti & Rashti President Charlotte Rashti, adding that her brand’s products and Prestige’s are often merchandised together already. “Now, buyers have the convenience of working with one vendor.” For more information, email contactus@rashtiandrashti. com. —K.S. ( & ' + E 9 J E 8 ; H ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7

RESH FINDS

Opposites Attract

Pals Socks aren’t just quirky and cute; they convey a deliberate message—namely, that it’s fun to be friends with someone who is different. Each mismatched pair is a set of unlikely friends: A flamingo mingles with an alligator, a bear meets a bee and a ladybug unites with a caterpillar. Beneath the whimsical surface of the socks, Pals aims to teach children about acceptance. Launched this past June, the company gives back by donating a percentage of its sales to nonprofits that promote diversity, like Pacer’s National Bullying Prevention Center. Socks are currently available for boys and girls ages 1 to 8, and for adults, but an infant collection is also in the works. Pairs wholesale for $4.50 and three-pack gift sets are $10. See palssocks.com to learn more.

The latest styles for spring offer charm and utility.

Indonesian Influence

Designer Sophia Butcher draws inspiration from Bali’s lush landscape for her label, Little Layla. The brand, originally launched in 1983, is designed in Australia and manufactured in Indonesia. Debuting stateside at Playground Las Vegas this past August, the line features colorful island-style prints and handcrafted appliqués for girls ages newborn to 14 years. Wholesale prices range from $18 to $26 for the collection, and spring will bring fresh floral, chevron and ikat prints in bright pinks and blues on a range of woven and cotton silhouettes including rompers, harem pants, kaftans and dresses with coordinating hats and purses. The line also offers made-to-order pieces: Retailers can select a preferred style in the print of their choice. Look out for boys’ apparel in the near future. Check out littlelayla.net.

Dad Approved

When left to his own devices, Hallie Burton’s husband dressed their daughter in pajamas for her ballet graduation. Needless to say, Burton was mortified when she saw the video footage. Thus, Smokks was born, with the premise that each dress would be free of zippers, hooks and buttons—in other words, Dad-proof. Debuting at Playtime New York this past August, Liberty-printed smock-style dresses are available in three versions—spaghetti strap, flutter sleeve and three-quarter sleeve—for girls ages 4 to 10. Dresses wholesale for $64 to $68, and the brand also offers a style for teens and mom, perfect for Mommy & Me dressing. Visit smokks.com to learn more.

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Helping Hand

Looking for sturdy gloves meant for tiny hands? Meet Glubbers, a line of durable yet flexible gloves designed for active little ones ages 3 to 10. Whether tots are throwing a snowball or pushing a sled, the water-resistant gloves, made of silicone, won’t tear and promise warmth with a poly/cotton liner. Launched in June of 2015, the collection is available in three colors—red, pink and black—as well as a camouflage print. Look for additional colors, a mitten style and adult sizes coming soon. Gloves wholesale for $13 to $15 per pair. See more at glubbers.net.

Wood Wonder

Michele Chiaramonte is a former New York City schoolteacher turned stay-at-home mom… turned woodworker. In order to keep busy while her little one napped, she began thinking of ways to add to the family home. She sketched her thoughts—bookcases and a kitchen island—and soon she had a home studio. Furniture gave way to toys and eventually to Little Miss Workbench, a handcrafted hardwood toy company, launched in 2015. From cameras to fishing rods (with coordinating magnetic cotton fish) to yo-yos to crayon blocks (which wrangle a jumble of crayons), the toys are finished with plant-based dyes and natural beeswax sealants. Wholesaling for $4 to $43, the line is intended for children ages 3 and up. Visit littlemissworkbench.com to see the full range of toys.

Based in TN. Made in the USA.

British Import

English allure arrived stateside at the August edition of ENK Children’s Club, in the form of Oh…My!, a British brand with a nostalgic, yet modern appeal. Specializing in occasion-wear for little ladies ages 4 to 12, the collection includes blouses, shorts, jackets, dresses, skirts, culottes and tops. For Spring ’16, look for uniquely feminine prints, such as vintage-inspired botanicals and photographic florals. Refined colors—think pastel pink, lilac and blue mixed with cream and gold—make a perfect palette for the line’s delicate, floaty silhouettes. Wholesale prices range from $23 to $147. Visit ohmykidswear.com.

Wholesale@Elizabethcate.cPN t Atlanta Showroom Location: Summer Place, Atlanta AmericasMart, 770.444.0776, Contact Brittany Harrell at Brittany@summerplacereps.cPN t *ndependent rep: Julie Zimmerman, 770.380.7321, juliezimmerman@gmail.com

OnTrend

Holt and Lulu skirt

Joyfolie sandals

Anthem of the Ants dress

Hucklebones blouse

Miki Miette romper

Little Me dress

Lite Brite Joah Love dress 10

While last spring’s collections were firmly settled in the province of a ’70s-inspired bohemia, this fall, a few brave brands ventured toward the fluorescent-filled ’80s. Children’s designers looked to Jonathan Anderson’s brilliant new wave patterns and the glam technicolor palette at Au Jour le Jour for tips on how to punch up their spring offerings. Highlighter hues ranging from acid-yellow to eye-popping pink could be found electrifying everything from harem pants to hair accessories. Paired with neutrals, such as grey and white, these fluorescent shades look clean and contemporary, while all-over brights make a bold statement that’s right in line with the more-is-more fashion movement. Either way, these high-intensity hues are sure to energize spring selections. –Tara Anne Dalbow

ILoveGorgeous dress

Everbloom necklace

Kids Case cardigan

Costumini Kids necklace

Holly Haste jacket

Trumpette socks

Tuc Tuc The Mini Classy harem pants ( & ' + E 9 J E 8 ; H Â&#x161; ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 1 1

OnTrend Fiveloaves Twofish dress Kapital K T-shirt

Dedo Kids leggings

Rachel Riley dress

Sun Child windbreaker

Soft Baby blanket

Zaxy sandal 12

Mayoral sweatshirt

Magnificent Baby footie

Petit Panache T-shirt

Platypus Australia swimsuit

Mudpie blanket

Island Fever Sudo dress

With over 30 million photos hashtagged “vacation” on Instagram, it comes as no surprise that childrenswear designers are bringing a taste for the exotic closer to home with collections chock-full of getaway-inspired details, from palm frond prints to vintage seashore sketches. Retro-inspired flamingo patterns look cool, not kitsch, on modern silhouettes in vibrant hues, while leafy palm trees go graphic in bold, poppy prints. Everything from footwear to formal dresses and swimsuits to sunglasses is sure to get swept up in this tropical wave. –T.A.D.

Lemon Loves Lime dress

Reef flip flop

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Q& A

Balancing Act

On the eve of its silver anniversary, Coccoli Commercial Director Francois Vachon reveals how the brand’s approach to business—merging the tried-and-true with a modern spin— has paved the road to success for another 20 years. BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

Commerical Director Francois Vachon and his mother, Coccoli’s founder, Marian Vachon, shortly after he joined the family business.

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WHEN THE DIRECT-to-consumer movement swept across children’s fashion about five years ago and it seemed like every brand in the industry launched an e-commerce arm, Francois Vachon faced a tough choice: As the Commercial Director of the longstanding children’s label Coccoli, he knew he may alienate at least a few of his current retail clients if he began selling the brand’s merchandise on its own website. On the other hand, he feared he would lose a lot of potential sales to competitors if the company didn’t offer a way for its customers to order online. So, true to the style that’s defined his smart approach to busid[ii \eh j^[ fWij '+ o[Whi" ^[ ijhkYa W Yecfhec_i[0 LWY^ed launched an e-commerce site for Coccoli, but the brand only offered its merchandise online after it arrived at its brick-andmortar destinations, and products wouldn’t be discounted until j^[ l[ho [dZ e\ j^[ i[bb_d] i[Wied$ J^Wj mWo" h[jW_b[hi mekbZ ^Wl[ every opportunity to show Coccoli to their customers first and would be able to sell the brand at full price, without competition from Coccoli.com. 7i W '+#o[Wh l[j[hWd e\ j^[ Y^_bZh[dÊi _dZkijho m^e ]h[m kf wandering the aisles at ENK Children’s Club, it makes sense that Vachon is particularly cognizant of maintaining a strong bond with the brand’s traditional buyers. His mother, Marian Vachon, \_hij bWkdY^[Z 9eYYeb_ _d '//+" Xkj ^[h heeji _d Y^_bZh[dÊi \Wi^_ed ]e XWYa [l[d \khj^[h" je '/.," m^[d i^[ bWkdY^[Z 9eYYeb_Êi fWh[dj YecfWdo 9h[Wj_edi HeXe$ 8Wi[Z _d Cedjh[Wb" j^[ YecfWdo Yedtinues to specialize in importing European brands to the North 7c[h_YWd cWha[j$ JeZWo" _d WZZ_j_ed je cWdk\WYjkh_d] 9eYYeb_" 9h[Wj_edi HeXe Z_ijh_Xkj[i \_l[ XhWdZi0 C[ Jee" W :Wd_i^ \Wi^_ed staple; Claesen’s, a Dutch underwear label; Celavi, an outerwear

label from Denmark; Minymo, a contemporary sportswear collecFor 20 years Coccoli has been known for layette and sleeption also from Denmark; and Iglo + Indi, which Vachon describes, wear, but the brand recently expanded into daywear. How has fittingly, as “a very cool Icelandic brand.” The company also recently the new collection been received? launched Beanstork, an organic layette label. We’ve been focused mostly in the 0 to 24 months playwear/sleepWhile Vachon certainly learned a great deal under the tutelage wear category, but in Fall ’14, we brought in some dresses, tunics and of his fashion-savvy mom, it’s his own interest in mastering every leggings for girls with a lot of the same fabrics we use in our layette aspect of the business that has played a crucial role in Coccoli’s succollection. Now, I would say the collection is 1/3 daywear and 2/3 cess. “I’m not necessarily a pro at any one thing, but I’m a good genlayette/sleepwear. It’s working out well. We didn’t hire a new designeralist; I’m good at making the whole thing come together,” Vachon er strictly to work on the daywear. We’re still a bit of a “PJs company” acknowledges. “At the end of the day, I’ll go from the design departdoing daywear, so there’s a bit of a learning curve, but we’re getting ment to shipping to production, and make sure everything is going there. It looks pretty good. In Fall ’15, we introduced a pant for boys according to the ultimate goal—that we’re all working on the prioriin French fleece, so it’s got a lot of stretch. It’s kind of our answer to ties of the day.” leggings for girls. It’s a straight cut, so it looks like a clean pant, but After all, manufacturing a fashionable garment is just one aspect it’s got the comfort of a sweatpant. For boys, it’s a little unfair, they of long-term success, Vachon are either wearing sweatpants, offers. Take, for example, Me which don’t look good, or pants Too. Even though the Danish or jeans that are so stiff, they can UP CLOSE WITH staple has long been beloved barely get back up after they sit for its bright, kid-friendly down. We wanted to find somedesigns, the brand’s original thing in the middle. The pant is owners sadly went bankrupt a great—it retails for $25 in baby What’s your favorite way “Eye of the Tiger” in a loop. year ago. “Me Too had delivery and $30 in sizes 2 to 10. It’s easyto spend a free afternoon? problems, and the next thing wear, easy-care and good cost. Being active with my two older What are you reading right you know, it’s shipping late, so It looks good without having to boys—playing street hockey, now? The Atlantic magazine. clients left and the designs sacrifice comfort. building a cabin, catching suffered,” Vachon admits. bugs, etc., while my wife Grace What’s the best movie you’ve Thankfully, Me Too was quickly What inspired the expansion? naps with the 8-month-old. seen recently? Drive. snapped up by Brands4Kids, a Knit quality has really increased Danish children’s fashion comin the last five or 10 years. Today, What are you listening to What three items would you pany owned by Erik Andreae you’re starting to see a very right now? The soundtrack bring to a deserted island? A and Michael Nederby. acceptable level of quality for to Once Upon a Time in the guitar, an extra set of strings “They’re very dynamic and pajamas and layette even in big West—except when the boys and a Winnebago. very sharp,” Vachon says of the box stores. In order to remain get a hold of the iPod. Then it’s pair. “The first day I met them, pertinent, you have to stay two we didn’t talk about apparel steps ahead of the people behind once. All we talked about was you. So you create more of a business structure and logistics. I love apparel; it’s fun, it’s fresh, it’s brand, with more items in the collection, and daywear was a natural new, it’s exciting. But the base of our business has to be on-time shipprogression for us. ments, and tops that match bottoms. Coordination is crucial. For them to not even bring up aesthetics at all on the first day was so Besides adding daywear to the collection, how else do you stay refreshing. You can have the most beautiful garment in the world, but two steps ahead of that competition? if it’s not in the store at the right time, it means nothing.” It’s a mix of keeping up with where you think the market is going, as That commitment to keeping retailers happy has been a key comwell as reacting to where sales are going and to what buyers tell you. ponent to Coccoli’s longevity. Today, the brand is available at 300 We do sell on our own consumer website now, and we also sell to the specialty retailers in the U.S., and 150 in Canada, as well as stores upscale flash discount websites. On the other hand, we’re very conin Australia and New Zealand. And next fall, as Coccoli turns 20, it’s servative. For example, we started selling Fall ’14 Coccoli on the diseasy to imagine the company continuing to thrive under Vachon’s count sites as of July 2015. I only put it on those sites a full year later. balanced leadership. Yet even with the focus on the finer points of running a successful children’s company, fashion isn’t always strictTo avoid conflict with your retailers? ly business, Vachon admits. Again, he adds, it’s a mix. “It’s wonderful Exactly. I know some brands put their products on those sites 90 to have a product that’s a nice mix of concrete and creative—it’s not to 120 days after shipping to their brick-and-mortar retailers, but strictly creative because you have to work within physical guidelines. I wait a full year. I’m very careful in that sense. Also, on our e-comYou have parameters, yet you can always draw a little bit outside the merce website Coccoli.com, we do our best to give our brick-andlines because it’s a creative product,” he continues. “It’s a lot of fun mortar retailers every chance in the world to sell Coccoli without in that sense. You get the best of both worlds, both business as well Coccoli corporate coming in and stealing that business. For example, as creative.” whenever we get a new style in, we ship it to our clients, and we put

FRANCOIS VACHON

( & ' + E 9 J E 8 ; H ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 1 5

Q& A it on our website a full two weeks after that. When you think about it, as soon as the merchandise is in my warehouse, I could put it on my website right away. But by the time you pack it and get it to the stores, I’d be putting it on my site a full two weeks before my retailers have a chance to show it to their own clients. But they committed to it six months ago, and I produced the collection based on their ordering, so it would be really unfair. That’s fantastic. I think today’s savviest brands are the best at balancing their direct-to-consumer sales with the needs of brick-and-mortar retailers. Another thing we do is wait until the end of the season to start discounting our merchandise on Coccoli.com. Some brands, for example, began discounting their Spring ’15 collections in April and May on their own websites. We start discounting our merchandise on Coccoli.com the day we start shipping the next season—so Spring ’15 Coccoli went on discount as of late June, when we started shipping Fall ’15. As a business, I don’t want to win on the left only to lose on the right. I don’t want to win on my retail business only to lose on my wholesale business. Has the advent of e-commerce changed how you approach business in other ways, too? The real revelation is, for the first time ever, we started to see how

consumers buy Coccoli, as opposed to how retailers buy from us. When we’re at a trade show, and the stores come to see us, we often hear, “Coccoli is footies. I buy my footies from Coccoli.” If you start creating dresses—even if your dresses are nice—that buyer has a structure in her store: She buys brand X for dresses and brand Y for PJs. If you start producing new products, yes, you’ll have some clients try it out, but a lot of clients, because they already have a structure in place—which I completely respect—will pigeonhole you. They will typecast you. I never thought of that until I started seeing sales come in from online vendors and now our direct-to-consumer site as well. You can finally try to step a bit outside of what clients have decided your expertise is, and that’s really nice. What are some of the differences in how consumers buy Coccoli? One thing, for example, is prints. We’ve always been known for our stripes, but we’ve always been afraid to make prints in the fear that it wouldn’t embody the Coccoli look. However, there was one print we made three years ago, of horses running, that sold very little in booking. But I loved it so much, I said to heck with it, I’m going to put it on Amazon. Let’s give it a shot. And it sold really well. For me, it was a revelation—that we can decide where we want to go, rather than trying to please the clients we already have. It requires taking a bit of a leap of faith, because you have to make stock, but sometimes

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“As a business, I don’t want to win on the left only to lose on the right. I don’t want to win on my retail business only to lose on my wholesale business.”

you’ve just got to take a chance.

Has your strategy for growth changed as a result? Up until the web became a core part of our business several years ago, we were very, very traditional. We designed two collections a year, attended trade shows and sold to independent shops. But now there are so many ways of moving inventory. Of course, you have to do it in a way that’s respectful of your current business. For example, we’ve also started doing warehouse sales, which I never used to do. We’re located right in the garment district of Montreal, and I’ve been holding back on warehouse sales because of our local clients, who were wonderful accounts. But in this past year three Montreal stores that bought every single one of my brands have closed. That was a big hit, emotionally. So we’ve been doing warehouse sales for about a year now. Another thing we’ve done is open up new markets. As of Fall ’14, we sell in Australia, which has become a very important market for us. What’s fun about selling to Australia is they’re showing the season we’re shipping here in the states. Our distributor has been showing Fall ’15 since July, which we’re going to ship to her by boat in November, and in the meantime, she’s been working off our inventory. That’s another incentive to make overstock—to be able to service this great market.

How do you plan to grow Coccoli going forward? You always tweak your brand; you always find space to improve. Five or six years ago, a lot of our footies were elaborately embellished and sold for $20 wholesale. That was around the crash of 2008, and at that time I felt people were looking more at the price [of a garment] so we decided to simplify the fit of our footies in >38 order to sell $15 wholesale, about $30 retail. There was a 1 7 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C E 9 J E 8 ; H ( & ' +

170 collections Fashion Gift Home

FEBRUARY IS THE NEW MARCH! See you in

February 2016 at the

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It’s great for business, but it’s certainly a lot more to manage. The online sales software Brandboom has been a welcome addition; it’s been very efficient for us. Sales agents and distributors can sell stock based on our inventory, so no more back and forth with the buyer to inform her, “Top X in size 6 isn’t available. Would you like another as a subsitute to match the pant?” It’s also easy for buyers to log in, view high-resolution pictures and see actual inventory on their own time. It was fun in the past to wake up to reorders in your inbox, or at the fax machine. But it’s even more fun to see reorders come in based on actual inventory, which you can ship 100 percent as ordered. No more back and forth with the buyers, which was frustrating for all involved.

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Fendi mandarin collar shirt, Andy & Evan shorts, Le Big bag, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own sneakers; Vierra Rose dress, Jamie Rae Hats flower clip, Cienta canvas Mary Janes, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own necklace. 19

Tuchinda embroidered top and shorts, Ban.do hairbands, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own necklace. Opposite page: Suoak dress, Masala Baby pompom necklaces.

Vierra Rose dress, Chewbeads necklace. Opposite page: Nandy & Molly blouse and scarf worn as sash, Lulaland dress worn as skirt, Le Big head scarf, Fashion Angels beaded bracelet, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own shoes.

Kids the Frog dress, vintage shoes and bracelets; Stella McCartney Kids dress, Nandy & Molly tassel scarf, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own shoes. 25

Mayoral shorts, vintage shirt and bracelet, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own sneakers. Opposite page: Tuchinda embroidered dress, Chewbeads bracelets, vintage belt. Stylist: Tara Anne Dalbow; grooming byClelia Bergonzolli/Utopia 27

SPRING/SUMMER ’16

ACCESSORIES PREVIEW

Forget the minimalist, pared-down bows and bangles of seasons past. This spring, it’s all about over-the-top accessories. As Jamara Ghalayini, owner of Pumpkinheads in Brentwood, CA, puts it, “anything that really stands out,” will earn a spot on her store’s shelves. Gleaning inspiration from a range of exotic locales—from the outer limits of space to the great depths of the sea—children’s designers imbue an array of styling staples, from necklaces to neckties, with an otherworldly quality. On that note, look for exotic textures, arresting colors and mesmerizing finishes to make mirrored sunglasses and holographic backpacks best bets. Ready to make your accessories section shine? We asked experts from across the industry to share the top trends for Spring ’16. —Tara Anne Dalbow

Bold Move In the Bag Chloe K. New York

As the Mommy & Me trend continues to percolate through the apparel segment, it comes as no surprise that mini-me accessories are gaining traction. “Anything that looks like mom’s bag” will be big, predicts Ghalayini, pointing toward styles with design elements similar to iconic bags by behemoths like Hermès, Chanel and Valentino. “We see the trend for faux-luxury mini-bags continuing and being a huge seller,” she notes. Quilted details, high-shine hardware closures and rich colors help budding fashionistas feel just like mom.

Fashion Angels

Fast Fashion

Kids have always loved unhealthy treats, but it wasn’t until Jeremy Scott introduced a McDonalds-themed collection for Moschino and Karl Lagerfeld turned Chanel’s runway into a supermarket packed with good-enough-toeat accessories, that childrenswear designers took their fast-food fascination seriously—a trend that continues to fill collections this spring. In fact, Kelly Bray, accessories buyer for AlexandAlexa, predicts another tall order of ice cream and burger motifs on kids’ accessories. While metallic treatments and glitter embellishments keep creamy treats looking cool, bold colors and graphic patterns make savory options standout. Seen on backpacks, hair bows and jewelry, there’s enough on the menu to keep little one’s wardrobes satiated all season long. Wee Ones

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Milk & Soda

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Adelaide

Thanks, initially, to Frida Kahlo, and now, to a crop of festival-going tastemakers, floral crowns are poised to bloom for Spring ’16. Bray and Leah Nelson, co-founder of kids’ accessories brand Milk & Soda, agree that floral garlands and embellished headbands will have a bountiful spring season. Look to dainty blooms strung along ribbons or large statement-making flora on headbands to help little ones reconnect with nature.

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Earnie Awards winner 2013

2015 Jamie Rae Hats

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PREVIEW

Hello Shiso

Ray-Ban Jr. Le Big

H Luv

Zoobug

Mirror Mirror

One would be hard pressed these days to spot a celebrity not sporting a pair of mirrored sunnies, and children’s designers are taking note. Now kids, too, can throw shade from behind these highlyreflective, enigmatic lenses. Ranging from high-octane rainbow hues to subtle flash-coat finishes, Nelson says mirrored lenses are a musthave, especially in bright colors such as golden yellow. As for frames? On-trend silhouettes range from round to retro, Nelson reports.

In a Tassel

As womenswear continues to embrace ‘70s-era styling, children’s designers look to tassels and fringe to bring the trend down to pint-sized proportions. Fringetrimmed faux suede bags and colorful tassel-bedecked jewelry lead the season’s free-spirited selections. In what Bray calls the biggest jewelry trend of the season, look for “’70s-inspired long multi-row necklaces with tassels, fringing and pompoms.” Paired with simple silhouettes in oversaturated colors, these peace-and-love embellishments look chic, not costumey, with oversized beads and delicate charms.

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Water World

Bottleblond

Lily and Momo

A treasure trove of aquatic accessories bubble up from the deep blue for spring. Veering away from nautical clichés, designers plumb the depths of the life aquatic for fresh details, eyecatching treatments and interesting textures. “Underwater is a huge trend,” confirms Bray, pointing toward mystical creatures such as mermaids and giant octopuses, along with jellyfish and scale motifs as important. She also predicts that aquamarine will be the “It” color of the season. Expect a wave of iridescent leather treatments, abstract wave prints and 50 shades of blue this spring.

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SPRING/SUMMER ’16

ACCESSORIES PREVIEW

Andy & Evan

Barri Lynn

Free Fur All

Fur is no longer just for fall. Reimagined in bold, bright colorways, this fuzzy material is perfect for upping the luxe factor on a plethora of girls’ spring accessories. Inspired by the candy-colored furs on Betsey Johnson’s and Marc Jacobs’ fall runways, classic brown and black are replaced by a veritable rainbow of hues. “Faux fur in neon and bright colors,” confirms Ghalayini, of her must-have hair accessories. “If it’s in the hair, it better stand out!” Monochromatic highlighter hues and bold colorblock combinations are on trend for furry ponytail holders, headbands and hairclips.

Appaman RuffleButts

Bucket List

Once reserved for dads on vacation and ’90s hip-hop icons, the bucket hat has staged a fashionable comeback. The floppy headgear can be found on everyone from international pop stars to models walking the Spring ’16 Fashion Week runways. Nelson predicts that the hat will be a key piece for both boys and girls come spring, and points toward floral patterns and New York City-inspired prints as revitalizing the classic shape.

C E LE B R AT E INN OC E NC E

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A rainbow of holographic hues lend kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; accessories a spaceage luster. Luminous foils, precious metal patterns and iridescent details shine bright on a range of hats, belts and bags. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Metallic, iridescent and holographic colors and finishes are key,â&#x20AC;? reports Bray. The shimmering sheens imbue pieces with a cosmic glow capable of changing shades depending on the light, but no matter the color, these high-shine materials are sure to spark a fashionable flame.

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BEHIND THE SEAMS HOSIERY

Bringing Up the Rear Doodle Pants expands from leggings to quirky, color-coordinated separates.

OU CAN FIND Doodle Pants’ playful duds, including the brand’s namesake leggings with their signature prints on the bum, in children’s boutiques everywhere from Florida to Alaska and even as far as Australia, France and Greece. You can also find them at the Oklahoma City Zoo. “Zoos love us,” exclaims founder Lorain Herder, explaining that the brand’s many animal styles are a hit in park gift shops. “Who would have thought?” It seems Herder is similarly surprised about the success of her line. When asked whether she has a fashion background, she laughs heartily. “I don’t! How funny is that? I’m a mom, and I had a problem WdZ ? mWdj[Z je \_n _j$È J^Wj fheXb[c mWi W Z[Whj^ e\ Ykj[" m[bb#\_jj_d] clothing for little boys—something Herder discovered while raising ^[h jme iedi" dem jme WdZ \ekh$ ÇJ^[_h fWdji d[l[h \_j h_]^j X[YWki[ e\ j^[_h Z_Wf[hi¾ J^[o m[h[ WbmWoi a_dZ e\ \kdao" m^[j^[h jee X_] eh too small. It annoyed me so much!” she says. “I found that leggings worked for them, but they only came in solid colors or girly prints. So I figured I’d try something new.” J^Wj mWi _d bWj[ (&'(1 i_dY[ j^[d" i^[Êi ]hemd :eeZb[ FWdji \hec '( Z[i_]di je ,& WdZ XhWdY^[Z ekj \hec b[]]_d]i je YeehZ_dWj_d] J#i^_hji" êeZ_[i" XeZoik_ji WdZ" ceij h[Y[djbo" êeZ[Z X[WY^ jem[bi" which Herder says are the precursor to a swimwear line launching d[nj ikcc[h$ Jêk]^ i^[ _d_j_Wbbo Z_ZdÊj _dj[dZ je ]e X[oedZ b[]gings—as indicated by the brand’s name—the expansion was born of consumer demand. “It took us a year and a half to figure out that moms really wanted matching tops,” she says, noting that collections now include multiple designs (from skateboarding dinosaurs to anchors and airplanes) within the same color family for easy mixing WdZ cWjY^_d]$ J^[h[Êi Wbie W Yejjed b_d[ _d WZZ_j_ed je j^[ eh_]_dWb polyester one, which wholesales on the higher end of Doodle Pants’ / je '+ hWd][$

3 4 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C E 9 J E 8 ; H ( & ' +

Next on the agenda is getting Doodle Pants into more retail doors. 9khh[djbo" _jÊi WlW_bWXb[ _d Wffhen_cWj[bo '&& K$I$ h[jW_b[hi$ Je Ze that, Herder is on the hunt for more sales reps nationwide. She’s Wbie Wjj[dZ_d] 789 A_Zi ;nfe _d EYjeX[h" Wi m[bb Wi j^[ BWi L[]Wi Souvenir & Resort Gift Show this month, something she’s especially excited about, since the brand has proven successful in gift shops. IeY_Wb c[Z_W fh[i[dji Wdej^[h effehjkd_jo je ifh[WZ j^[ mehZ$ J^[ XhWdZ XeWiji Ybei[ je /&& ?dijW]hWc \ebbem[hi WdZ h[Y[djbo ikhfWii[Z ,&"&&& b_a[i ed <WY[Xeea$ IeY_Wb c[Z_W Wbie ^[bfi :eeZb[ Pants strike that delicate balance between nurturing its current retail accounts and operating a robust direct-to-consumer e-commerce business. Herder does this by posting photos of retailers’ Doodle Pants displays on the brand’s social media channels to direct local shoppers to the stores. “We like helping our retailers,” she states. “I’m not in competition [with them].” 9khh[djbo" :eeZb[ FWdji ]Whc[dji Wh[ WlW_bWXb[ _d i_p[i & je (J" although Herder says the brand’s stretchy material allows the pants je \_j Y^_bZh[d kf je i_p[ )J$ M^_b[ i^[ e\j[d ][ji h[gk[iji je cWa[ larger sizes, Herder says she’s found smaller sizes to be the strongest sellers. And although her older son has technically aged out of the i_p[ hWd][" >[hZ[h Wiikh[i ^[ ij_bb heYai ^_i :eeZb[ FWdji$ ÇJ^[o ij_bb fit him, and I put them on him whenever I can!” —Kirby Stirland

A fateful coincidence and innovative design helped Cheski Sock Company step into the kids’ market.

Perfect Pair

OMETIMES, TO GET your big idea off the ground, you need a little magic. “Lots of things happened very serendipitously that helped Cheski Sock Company come to fruition,” muses Co-Founder and CEO Beth Dioli. For one thing, when her research on sock manufacturing kept directing her toward South Korea, she realized that her former design school classmate, Jacky Lee, was based in Seoul. And not only was he more than willing to help her bring her idea to life, but he had a family connection to a South Korean sock manufacturing company, which helped Cheski make some muchneeded industry connections and get the brand’s first samples made. In yet another happy coincidence, Cheski launched at the 2014 ABC Kids Expo on September 7, which happens to be the birthday of Dioli’s older daughter, Francesca (a.k.a. …you guessed it, Cheski). Kismet aside, Dioli initially founded Cheski to address a very real need. Frustrated with baby socks that slipped down the foot and wouldn’t stay on, something that made her “type A and twitchy,” she decided to take action. Cheski socks, which wholesale for $2.89 to $7.98, stand apart from the rest on account of their patent-pending design, with elasticized sections around the arch, ankle and top of the knee. The taller knee sock design keeps little ones’ legs cozy even when their pant legs inevitably ride up, while shrink-to-fit sizing and an extra-roomy toe area ensure the socks stay secure without

sliding, even after washing. Designs range from a hip skull-and-crossbones graphic to trompe l’oeil “shoe socks” complete with faux laces, as well as basic white socks with brightly-colored trim to go with any outfit. Spreading the word about her brand has been Dioli’s main goal throughout her first year; strategic partnerships with popular mommy blogs like Pregnant Chicken, Project Nursery and Baby Gizmo have proven successful. Next up, she’s aiming to expand her retailer reach (Currently, Cheski is available in around 45 U.S. doors as well as online through Amazon and UncommonGoods.) and break into some larger accounts. It seems she’s well on her way; in the course of a single week this past summer, Dioli reports she secured an East Coast sales rep with plenty of cred in the sock business, Jessica Klein, and was picked up by Allison Showroom at California Market Center. Now, she has her eye on the international market, including Canada and Hong Kong, and plans to do a pop-up shop in Seoul. Above all, Dioli says, “I want to be a household name.” The goal is for Cheski socks to become a go-to baby shower gift, ranking among any mom’s favorite products. As for the seasons ahead, look out for new kick-and slide-proof ankle socks for warmer weather, as well as an expanded size range beyond the existing 0 to 6 months—no doubt inspired by Dioli’s own brood. “My [younger] daughter is 5 months old and I can see the end of the tunnel with Cheski socks and I’m like, ‘Then what?’,” she laughs. “It’s my motivation to keep it going.” —K.S.

BEHIND THE SEAMS APPAREL

Sweetest Thing Raspberry Plum, a children’s line with a lofty mission, bears fruit.

HEN ALEKSANDRA STASIC decided to launch her own chilZh[dÊi Ybej^_d] XhWdZ _d (&'*" i^[ m[dj XWYa je ^[h heejiÆif[Y_\_YWbbo" je I[hX_W" m^[h[ i^[ mWi Xehd$ 7j ed[ j_c[" j^[ Yekdjho ^WZ W j^h_l_d] WffWh[b cWdk\WYjkh_d] _dZkijho" but it’s been hindered by the political turmoil in the region el[h j^[ bWij jme Z[YWZ[i$ Ç? mWdj[Z je ]_l[ iec[j^_d] XWYa je co Yekdjho e\ X_hj^"È IjWi_Y ijWj[i$ JeZWo" Wbb e\ j^[ gk_hao XWXo WdZ a_ZiÊ ZkZi \hec IjWi_YÊi XhWdZ" HWifX[hho Fbkc" Wh[ manufactured in Serbia from materials sourced in Europe. ?d \WYj" [l[d j^[ YecfWdoÊi dWc[ _i W deZ je _ji \ekdZ[hÊi heritage—Serbia is one of the world’s leading producers of raspberries and plums. J^_i c_dZ\kb WffheWY^ _i Yedi_ij[dj j^hek]êkj IjWi_YÊi Xki_d[ii fhWYj_Y[i$ I^[ ijh_l[i je cWa[ HWifX[hho Fbkc [Ye#\h_[dZbo" ki_d] h[YoYb[Z" ikijW_dWXb[ WdZ eh]Wd_Y cWj[h_Wbi m^[d[l[h feii_Xb[$ Fbki" Xo a[[f_d] fheZkYj_ed m_j^_d ;khef[" j^[ YecfWdo _i WXb[ je cW_djW_d W icWbb YWhXed \eejprint. Stasic notes that while only about half of the company’s )& je *& h[jW_b[hi Wh[ _d 7c[h_YW" HWifX[hho FbkcÊi ]h[[d c_ii_ed h[iedWj[i m_j^ j^[ K$I$ cWha[j$ ÇQ7c[h_YWdiS Wh[ l[ho WmWh[ e\ [dl_hedc[djWb _iik[i WdZ Wffh[Y_Wj[ m^Wj m[ Wh[ jho_d] je Ze"È i^[ iWoi$ E\ Yekhi[" W \[[b#]eeZ XhWdZ ijeho _idÊj [dek]^ÆWi IjWi_Y _i m[bb WmWh[$ ÇJ^[ \WYj j^Wj QHWifX[hho FbkcS _i [j^_YWb WdZ eh]Wd_Y _i W Xedki"È i^[ iWoi$ ÇJ^[i[ ZWoi oek ^Wl[ je ^Wl[ [l[hoj^_d]$È 7YYehZ_d]bo" j^[ b_d[" m^_Y^ [dYecfWii[i WffWh[b" b[]m[Wh WdZ WYY[iieh_[i \eh XWX_[i W][i ) je (* cedjî WdZ a_Zi W][i ) je '( o[Whi" WdZ mêb[iWb[i \eh ,$/& je .&"

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_dYbkZ[i Yec\ehjWXb[ mWhZheX[ ijWfb[i _d l_XhWdj" kd[nf[Yj[Z Yebeh YecX_dWj_edi$ Oek medÊj \_dZ HWifX[hho FbkcÊi XebZ graphics anywhere else—Stasic designs them herself. Her art\kb W[ij^[j_Y _i WffWh[dj j^hek]^ekj j^[ b_d[" fWhj_YkbWhbo j^[ Ifh_d] Ê', Yebb[Yj_ed" m^_Y^ i^[ iWoi _i _dif_h[Z Xo 7c[h_YWd ifehjim[Wh$ Ç? bel[ j^[ ][ec[jh_Y fWjj[hdi ed YbWii_Y Y^[[hb[WZ[h kd_\ehci WdZ j^[ ijhed] ]hWf^_Yi e\ lWhi_jo Ybej^_d]"È i^[ iWoi" WZZ_d] j^Wj i^[ Wbie _d\ki[Z j^[ Yebb[Yj_ed m_j^ jhWY[i e\ 9edijhkYj_l_ij Whj WdZ ^[h Ç[dehceki bel[ e\ Wd_cWbi$È A[o f_[Y[i _dYbkZ[ W ]_hbiÊ ad_jj[Z Zh[ii m_j^ W YWj cej_\" Yeborblocked cardigans for boys and a baby dress embroidered m_j^ W YWj WdZ ceki[" Wbb h[dZ[h[Z _d W Xh_]^j" ijWj[c[dj# cWa_d] Yebeh fWb[jj[ e\ WgkW" YeXWbj" c[bed WdZ o[bbem$ HWifX[hho FbkcÊi kd_gk[ e\\[h_d]i [Whd[Z j^[ XhWdZ W H_i_d] IjWh WmWhZ Wj 8kXXb[ BedZed _d (&'*" WdZ IjWi_Y h[fehji \[[ZXWYa \hec h[jW_b[hi ^Wi X[[d fei_j_l[$ 8kj X[oedZ j^Wj" i^[ iWoi" ÇM[ ][j j^[ X[ij h[WYj_ed \hec Y^_bZh[d$ J^[ Ybej^[i Wh[ l[ho Yec\ehjWXb[ WdZ kdkikWb ie W bej e\ cej^[hi ^Wl[ jebZ c[ j^[o YWdÊj ][j j^[_h a_Zi je m[Wh Wdoj^_d] [bi[$ J^_i _i j^[ X[ij Yecfb_c[dj ? YekbZ ][j$È —K.S.

Beast Mode Designer Zack Issa applies his style expertise to kidswear.

ASHION HAS BEEN a part of Zack Issa’s life since he was a child. As the design director (at the tender age of 24, no less) of children’s brand Baby Beast, he attributes his lightning-quick trajectory within the industry to a most special mentor: “My mother had a very eclectic sense of style, which rubbed off on me,” he explains. “I was always watching fashion shows with her and I knew most of the names of the big fashion houses by the time I was 12.” Issa later put those lessons to good use as a celebrity stylist. “I dealt with high-end clientele, like NBA athletes and hip hop artists,” he recalls. He then went on to become the creative director of a Detroit-area boutique that carried the very designer labels he learned about from his mom. But it wasn’t just a love of fashion Issa inherited from his mother; she was passionate about helping children in need, and ever since she passed away in 2003, he began to think about ways to honor her memory, and to explore his own sense of fashion at the same time. Childrenswear fit the bill. Issa’s mom, however, isn’t the only woman who served as a major influence on the launch of Baby Beast. He also credits his girlfriend, Taylor Hinds, a graphic designer who now works as the brand’s creative director. Combining their skills—hers in branding and his in cutting and sewing—the two founded the label in Detroit in 2013. Available for boys and girls ages 2 to 10, the collection is manufactured in Los Angeles and includes stylish black and white silhouettes like message tees (“Lil Homme” and “I’m in Love with the Coco Puffs”), French terry roll-up shorts and harem pants. “There’s a cultural shift in the way parents are dressing their kids,” Issa explains. “It’s mostly been a traditional market for the past decade, but there’s a surge in contemporary brands.” Now, there’s a place for the “edgy, minimalistic look” he favors. “We bring a little more attitude to the game,” he declares. And it’s an attitude that’s working: Baby Beast is already sold out for Fall ’15. As for Spring ’16, the brand is offering new outerwear pieces, including biker jackets and raglan sweaters, and Issa will introduce color for the first time: navy and lavender, to be exact. Available in approximately 40 U.S. retail stores, as well as in five other countries, the line wholesales for $13 to $46. As Issa sums it up, “When you buy our product, you are a part of us.” —Laurie Cone

Layette - Toddler - Kids Sleepwear Daywear www.coccoli.com Contact us for a BRANDBOOM presentation

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Q& A

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wave of stores closing, but I think it’s clear that the stores that were going to close have closed. And we’re now seeing new stores reopen with a new approach. It’s much more lifestyle rather than just fashion, and I’m seeing clients ready to spend more per unit now. We intend to fill that demand with our growing collection, which is more complete with mix-and-match items, and launching new packaging for 2016. Independent retailers want something special, and they’re not afraid to pay for it. Next season, for one of our five deliveries, I plan on creating a collection that will be more elaborate and refined. The footies will retail from $40 to $45, but will have embellishments and possibly special packaging. Four of the five deliveries will remain the same, so I won’t be turning away my regular business, but in order to create new business with that same client and maybe go and get other clients who may not normally buy us, we will have something new to offer. Sounds like a smart way to bring in new business while keeping your current clients happy. That’s the goal. We also launched a new brand at Robo called Beanstork. It’s designed and manufactured by us in India. It’s a classic, very sweet, very crisp layette line, made using organic cotton. Where Coccoli is rib and jersey knit, this one is interlock knit. This is a full-year stock program. For Coccoli, I’ve got showrooms

What would you say is the biggest difference in the children’s market now versus 20 years ago? The biggest difference is how quality has increased three-fold for what I would call lower-end sellers. You used to be able to tell if a product was quality or not from across the room. Also, consumer tendencies have changed. A mom who has a nice car and sends her kids to the best private school may not spend a lot on clothes. In the past, I feel like someone who was fancy was fancy from A to Z, and somebody who wasn’t, wasn’t. I love being at our warehouse sales because you get to really hear what people say. One day I was listening to a couple of ladies talking and one said, “I always spend the least amount I possibly can for pajamas. I’m the only one who sees the kid in the PJs, so who cares?” In a similar vein, you have people who say, “They grow out of it so fast, so why spend?” And this is often the same person who will drop $150 on a dinner for two on a random

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in New York and Los Angeles, but I put this one in a different showroom, and it’s fun to see new accounts that my other showrooms didn’t necessarily have, probably because it’s organic business. On the other hand, I see that some of our current stores, especially gift shops, love replenishment of their tried-and-true. So rather than creating a new pastel collection for Coccoli every season, I’m going to do one that lasts a full year.

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We’re now seeing new stores reopen with a new approach. It’s much more lifestyle rather than just fashion, and I’m seeing clients ready to spend more per unit now.”

Tuesday evening. If you want something that doesn’t last long, a meal doesn’t last long. It’s not related to salary. Today, it all depends on a family’s values and priorities.

Would you say that’s the biggest challenge in today’s market—to find that consumer who prioritizes children’s clothing? The biggest challenge? To demonstrate the benefits of buying your garment versus somebody else’s. You can say it’s your quality, but people might not even recognize quality. They may say, “Frankly, I don’t see a difference.” You can say, “The quality of their garment won’t last through 30 washes, whereas I guarantee you it will with mine.” But once you say that, you’ve got to demonstrate it—and get that message out to shoppers. And the Internet has been fantastic for the opportunity to get your message across. It’s so easy. You can take a video with a semi-quality camera with a quick montage of what a garment looks like from wash one to 30, and put it on your website. In the past, you would have to hire a marketing firm to do these types of things, but today you can do it yourself and it will look just fine. The problem, of course, is getting people’s attention, because people are bombarded left and right. But at least today, we have the opportunity to easily get that information to them. Given the challenges you mentioned, what advice would you offer today’s independent retailers? You have to give consumers what they want; you have to go and get the core brands for your market. But you also have to bring in some original collections every season, even if they don’t always work out. Your consumers have to feel they might be surprised every time they go to your store. And as much as you want to please your customer, you have to infuse your store with your own personality because in the end, you are the business. People are buying you. Otherwise, if customers are only purchasing the one thing they came in to buy that day, they will end up buying on the web. People will buy you for the experience—to be surprised and entertained. It’s all about the right mix of giving shoppers what they want, the tried-and-true, and surprising j^[c$ 3 9 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C E 9 J E 8 ; H ( & ' +

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shop talk Shining Star “When I first opened my store, I had absolutely no idea what I was doing,” quips Pam DiCapo, owner of Lauren 7b[nWdZhW _d AWdiWi 9_jo" CE$ 8kj i^[ mWidÊj W complete novice—her jewelry-store-owner parents introduced her je h[jW_b Wj W oekd] W][$ 7dZ W\j[h (' ikYY[ii\kb o[Whi" j^[ busy entrepreneur is clearly onto something. Her idea for the shop formed after having children and noticing a need for more sophisticated nursery design options. So, with_d /& ZWoi e\ ifejj_d] W ifWY[ \eh b[Wi[" :_9Wfe ef[d[Z 1. “I’m crazy about Atsuyo et Akiko right now. They do sequined pillows, exquisite accessories and beautiful tutus. It’s my new favorite line. I wear their necklaces myself.” (atsuyoetakiko.com)

BWkh[d 7b[nWdZhWÆdWc[Z W\j[h ^[h ZWk]^j[hiÆ_d '//*$ She offers an impressive array of apparel, gifts and accessories, but designing rooms for babies and adults alike is her specialty (and her favorite part of the job). Another \Wleh_j[ WYj_l_jo5 I^Wa_d] j^_d]i kf$ 9Wi[ _d fe_dj0 Je Y[b[XhWj[ j^[ i^efÊi (&j^ Wdd_l[hiWho bWij o[Wh" :_9Wfe _dstalled salvaged wood from a barn on one wall. And she has no plans of slowing down. “We stand on our toes and reach for the stars,” DiCapo declares. —Laurie Cone show off painted piggies and they stay on.” (toeblooms.com) 6. According to DiCapo, it’s never too soon for a pedicure. “Piggy Paint is all-natural nail polish for babies. When you put it on teeny toes, it’s about the cutest thing you’ve ever seen.” (piggypaint. com)

2. For a twist on hair accessories, DiCapo recommends Jolie. “The headbands and barrettes are so beautiful. They’re really delicate and sweet.” (jolieusa.com) 3. For furniture that is kid and mom approved, DiCapo likes Lil’ Pyar poufs. “We have a pink macaron-shaped one and another one with an alphabet print. They’re great for playrooms and nurseries.” (pyarandco.com/collections/ lil-pyar)

7. “Everbloom is one of my favorites. The colors are always bright and happy. I adore the tassel necklaces and purses and a new line of pillows has just been added.” (everbloomstudio.com)

4. “I love Baby I Candy tulle dresses. They make amazing first birthday party and flower girl dresses.” (thecoffs.com)

8. For a foolproof (and adorable) way to hang on to a pacifier, DiCapo suggests a WubbaNub. “These are a no-brainer. People come in for them all the time.” (wubbanub.com)

5. As a sweet alternative to baby shoes, DiCapo stocks ToeBlooms. “They’re so clever; they’re the perfect wrap for babies’ feet. They

Pam DiCapo can design and outfit your nursery.

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9. Pehr Designs is a go-to gift brand. “The Hi Blanket is my favorite item in the store because it’s so happy. I’m in love with the whole collection and I constantly reorder.” (pehrdesigns.com) 10. It isn’t all about baby and mom all the time: DiCapo keeps 9 dads in mind too, by stocking Chewbeads Dog Tag Teething Necklaces. “There’s hardly anything for dads so I try to bring in whatever I can find for them.” (chewbeads.com)