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OCTOBER 2018 CONTENTS
F EAT URES
Noelle Heffernan Publisher
10 Queen Bee Maria Nyline-Asker, president of Ayablu, maker of Burt’s Bees Baby, proves that organic fashion can be authentic, affordable and adorable. By Emily Beckman
This page: Ava wears dress by Petit Atelier, Wee Ones bow, Carter’s socks and Baby Deer shoes, holding Baby Starters lamb plush. On cover: Charlotte wears Feltman Brothers bonnet, Go Gently Nation dress, Carter’s socks and Freshly Picked shoes.
16 Great Expectations Why the maternity market is an ideal way for brickand-mortar stores to bump up sales. By Aleda Johnson
Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION
FA S H I O N
Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster
22 The Age of Innocence Smocking, fluting and handembroidered details festoon spring styles steeped in tradition. By Emily Beckman
Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018 Lee Zapis, CEO Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller
DEPARTM EN TS
Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher
6 Editor’s Note
Greg Dutter Editorial Director
8 Scene & Heard
19 What’s Selling
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20 Trend Watch
CONTACT INFO
14 Trend Watch
34 In The Bag
38 What’s Selling 39 Ad Index 40 Final Cut This page and cover: Photography by Trevett McCandliss; styling by Emily Beckman; grooming by Christina Nicole Errante.
PAGE 22
36 Haute Topics
Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com
EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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EDITOR’S NOTE
T
In Retailers We Trust
HIS JUST IN: Motherhood is tough! From stretch marks and weight gain to bouts of postpartum depression and chronic pain to juggling family and career obligations, the job can take its toll physically, mentally and emotionally. Fortunately, moms don’t have to fight the battle on their own, nor must they maintain a pretense that everything is perfect anymore. Thanks, in part, to the power of social media, the tide is turning on what motherhood really looks and feels like. Moms are increasingly sharing the mental and physical challenges that come with bringing a new life into the world. From body positivity campaigns to conversations about normalizing breastfeeding, women are becoming exponentially more confident in speaking the truth: Motherhood isn’t always pretty or perfect. Even celebrities who’ve been chastised for bouncing back on the red carpet days after giving birth are coming clean about what’s really going on when the professional makeup and shapewear are off. Recently, model and author Chrissy Teigen uploaded a photo to her nearly 14 million Instagram followers of herself in hospital-issued mesh underwear, poking fun at her “new look” three days after giving birth to her son. Model Candice Swanepoel also posted a photo in a bikini captioned, “This is me 12 days after having my son. If you have something bad to say about it…Check yourself.” What does all this “reality motherhood” mean to children’s retailers? It’s an opportunity to embrace the openness and connect with moms in desperate need of knowledge, advice, support and a little friendly reassurance that everything’s gonna be alright. Retailers are the main contact point for new moms seeking information on what to buy, how to use it and why. As women embark on the job of a lifetime, they need people they can truly trust. Sure, moms can find reams of information online from favorite vloggers, DIY YouTube videos and topic-specific websites. They can also ask family, friends and doctors what’s new in strollers, breast pumps, cribs, safety items, maternity wear, etc. But do any of these sources know more than a retailer whose reputation and livelihood depend on having the intel? Good retailers have already done the research. They’ve shopped the market, listened to countless product pitches and might even have tested items before writing orders. Many also have years of experience, loads of data and face-to-face customer feedback. They know what works and what doesn’t. And they have a vested interest in keeping their knowledge up to date because a repeat customer is the most affordable profit center. As a knowledgeable retailer, you can give new moms a goldmine of advice they can really use. And providing exceptional customer service forges an emotional bond that paves the way to lifelong loyalty in
your customers. There’s nothing wrong with selling cute prints and accessories, but great maternity retailers do more: They feel a deep responsibility to aid their customers’ transition into motherhood. If you don’t believe me, take it from some of the retailers quoted in this month’s Baby issue: “When new or expecting moms walk in, they don’t know about what they haven’t read in a book. My staff covers the rest—it takes a fellow mom to explain what’s really going on.” —Brenda Cornwell, owner, Mom & Me Boutique, Virginia Beach, VA “I won’t buy anything I don’t know works firsthand because moms need to trust us.” —Emily Kammerer, owner, Laura Belle Boutique, Farmington, MO “I’d rather give them an honest answer and have them come back than have them buy something they don’t need and never come back.” —Ken Vuong, owner, Nest Maternity, San Francisco Maria Nyline-Asker—president of Ayablu, maker of Burt’s Bees Baby and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 10)—agrees that appealing to parents on an emotional level turns them into loyal customers. The organic company not only works hard to produce and market safe and sustainable products at an affordable price, but its mission also includes connecting with customers personally. This year, Burt’s Bees Baby is re-launching its blog with posts about real issues moms care about—and with the ability to comment. The company also insists on only showcasing real moms and their babies across its social media channels for a truly authentic representation of its products and their rapport with mothers. Other brands have gotten creative with ways to make Mom feel special and beautiful, be it belly tattoos and baby bump castings or milestone graphics on apparel and accessories. Anne Klein, creator of Fish Kiss and our Designer Chat profile (p. 36), says her U.S. state–inspired collections are often used in pregnancy announcements on Instagram, showcasing one-pieces of the parents’ home states next to the first sonogram. Retailers should capitalize on the opportunity to connect with customers on a momentous occasion like motherhood. It’s not just about selling diapers, swaddles and pacifiers. It’s about being a trusted resource that moms can turn to time and again for goods, services and advice. It’s about being a port in the daily storm of parenting. It’s about selling keepsakes and potential family heirlooms. Of course, it’s also about the beautiful babies. Just look at the cherubic faces in our Spring ’19 babywear fashion preview (p. 22). They have their whole lives ahead of them. And our industry is right there with them—as well as their moms—to get it all started.
E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor
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SC E N E & H E A R D
Kid Made Modern Goes Digital
Retailers Get in Gear
KNOWN FOR ITS bright colors and bold designs in apparel and crafts, Kid Made Modern (KMM) is transitioning into the digital age with custom, ondemand video and digital content. “It was time to bring the brand to life and talk about creativity and self-expression using video,” says CEO Brian Richards. He cites a number of companies, not just for kids, that have introduced various concepts to close the circle between commerce and content. “The category that we are in—creativity—lends itself exceptionally well to tying that circle through video,” he adds. KMM’s in-house team tells stories while advertising product through sizzle reels, kit demos and instructional videos, using colorful pom-poms and wooden models to create aliens in an intergalactic battle. Richards says the
BABY GEAR SALES are on a roll! Although Millennial moms are rumored to be shopping with a strict budget, it’s not uncommon for parents to drop $1,000 when it comes to a stroller and car seat combination. Safety is nothing to scrimp on. “That purchase is typically made in tandem because of the relationship between the seat and stroller,” says Dave Brodsky, owner of Berg’s Baby & Teen Furniture, noting Uppa Baby and Nuna as bestselling brands of late. He’s also looking forward to Peg Perego’s new Agio collection that offers unique features like anti-rebound bars and additional load legs on its car seat. Phil Fairey, vice president of Baby Furniture Plus Kids, has noticed an increase in expandable double strollers. “Most parents are waiting quite a bit longer to start families,” he says. “As a result, they’re planning on multiple children over the course of three to four years, making expandable doubles a primary purchase during the first child.” He also cites the Uppa Baby Vista as a popular model in his stores. “Hybrid strollers are by far the trendiest,” agrees Eli Gurock, owner of Magic Beans, explaining that they give parents the opportunity to install the seat forward or backward, as well as interchange with a car seat or bassinet. “Parents often will buy a fullsized stroller, as well as a lightweight option,” he says, noting the Uppa Baby Vista as a No. 1 seller, as well as the Nuna MIXX2. “Immi Go—the booster seat with straps on it—has also been very popular for us,” he adds. For retailers looking to add gear to their mix, Gurock advises to stock with caution. “In the world of Amazon, the customer wants it now,” he says. “They don’t want to wait even one week.” He recommends stocking everything, if possible—no drop shipping or special ordering. “If you don’t stock stuff, you’re not going to be a successful brick-and-mortar retailer today,” he warns. “The risk of a customer not leaving with their desired purchase is too great.” Brodsky believes it’s worth the investment risk, and that’s despite the stroller and car seat category having a rap for being difficult to make good margins on. However, he says if buyers know their customers well, are selective in their purchases and build strong relationships with vendors they can trust, the category can deliver strong returns. “Many retailers have dropped the category over the past decade,” he says. “It’s a new day, and there are definitely opportunities where you can be successful.”
addition of video to the brand’s platform was a natural progression for a fashion company looking to embrace the digital age with the goal of educating and inspiring kids to be themselves. “Our media, as it involves clothing, is all a part of educating kids about what they wear and how it can be the way they express what and who they are,” he says. So far, Richards reports, the videos have been a hit with customers, boosting sales online and in stores. “When the products are brought to life through video, it drives sales which is why we’re doing more and more now,” he says, adding that retailers have asked for video to accompany KMM products being sold in their stores. “They see what we’ve done on our site and want us to make videos for them?’” Richards says. “It’s very exciting!”
A Swell Idea WITH MANY EXPECTANT moms suffering from foot and ankle swelling, the German startup Pregnidos has designed what it claims to be the world’s first collection of pregnancy shoes aimed at providing relief. The brand’s easy on/off bungee closure system allows for a customized fit, while the removable footbed, rounded toe box and moderate wedge are designed to offer maximum comfort and relieve back pain. “The footwear market offers no real options for pregnancy, so expectant moms have to buy shoes in bigger sizes or even men’s shoes in order to accommodate their swollen feet,” says Cristian Diaconu, founder of Pregnidos. “We value comfort, function and style in our shoes and want to bring our contribution to the pregnant women maintaining an active lifestyle up to the end of their pregnancy and beyond.” Handmade of natural materials in a traditional factory in Portugal, the line features anti-slip rubber soles for added safety. The Spring ’19 collection (suggested retail is $175) is available for retailers to order now. Contact: hello@pregnidos.de.
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Q&A Queen Bee Maria Nyline-Asker, president of Ayablu, maker of Burt’s Bees Baby, proves that organic fashion can be authentic, affordable and adorable.
BY EMILY BECKMAN
BRINGING MORE THAN 25 years of product development, operational and merchandising experience to the hive (if you will), Maria Nyline-Asker, president of Ayablu, the infant and children’s product licensee for Burt’s Bees, knew the label would be a natural fit in the children’s market. “An organic brand with a trusted reputation is sure to get Mom’s attention,” Nyline-Asker says, noting that as soon as Clorox acquired Burt’s Bees for $900 million in 2007, the company was looking for possible extensions. “I saw so much potential and was more than ready to take on the challenge,” she adds. It wasn’t until 2011 that Burt’s Bees inked the deal with Ayablu, and sales took off right out of the gate. Nyline-Asker attributes the success to being bold as well as beholden to a killer brand reputation. “Like all startup businesses, you just have to go for it,” she says, admitting the introductory layette gained initial momentum primarily due to Burt’s Bees’ trusted name and endearing backstory. For those unfamiliar, Burt’s Bees got its start in 1984 when Maine artist Roxanne Quimby found herself thumbing a ride home one afternoon. Eventually, a bright yellow Datsun pickup truck pulled over, and Quimby instantly recognized Burt Shavitz, a local whose beard was almost as well-known as his roadside honey stand. Before long, Quimby was making candles with wax from Shavitz’s beehives. They made $200 at their first craft fair and within a year, they’d made $20,000. It was a New York boutique that fell in love with the artistry of Burt’s Bees candles that triggered the company to start shipping by the hundreds. Two years later, Quimby perfected a recipe
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she found in a 19th century farmer’s journal, and Burt’s Bees Lip Balm was born—a bestseller to this day. As demand grew, Burt’s Bees moved to bigger quarters, relocating from Maine to North Carolina to focus on the health and beauty care markets. The product line continued to expand, introducing the company’s Lemon Butter Cuticle Cream in 1998, which earned 30 awards including four Allure Best of Beauty wins. In 1999, Burt’s Bees went global, opening offices in the U.K., Ireland, Canada, Hong Kong and Taiwan. Today, the company’s organic products are stocked in locations spanning gas stations to resort shops. It continues to introduce about 30 new products a year. “Being such a ubiquitous brand, Burt’s can live in all different channels,” says Nyline-Asker, noting that the distribution strategy for Burt’s Bees Baby had also meant casting a wide net at first that includes grocery stores, spas and department stores. “We’ve only recently pulled in the reigns to concentrate on a handful of key partners,” she says, citing Buy Buy Baby, Target and Amazon, as well as a growing partnership with Nordstrom since June. However, the company is also expanding into more children’s specialty boutiques, having exhibited for the first time at Children’s Club in New York this year. At the August show, Burt’s Bees Baby presented its selection of organic products for babies and kids, including clothing and bedding. Nyline-Asker reports its signature 100-percent organic cotton was admired by buyers for its durable yet gentle hand-feel. “It’s earthfriendly and GOTS-certified to meet the highest global standards
for organic textiles—all at an affordable price,” she says, recalling how overwhelming the response was at the show. “At one point, we physically couldn’t fit all the buyers in our booth,” she says, noting that it signed two to three times more accounts than anticipated. “In hindsight, we should have scheduled pre-appointments, as well as splurged on a bigger booth.” In fact, Nyline-Asker believes Burt’s Bees Baby is just taking flight with plenty more growth to be gained. “We’ve recently invested a lot in expansion internationally with plans to launch in China and Taiwan in Q1 of next year,” she says. “We’re also in talks with several other potential key partners, and I’m excited for more boutique growth nationwide.” The latter expansion, Nyline-Asker believes, synergizes well with the brand’s classic ethos. “It’s always nice to have the opportunity to shop in your own town, which I think people are reverting back to more and more,” she says. “Quite honestly, we’ve only just scratched the surface.” Who’s the quintessential Burt’s Bees Baby customer? From the very beginning, our mission has been anyone and everyone. There’s always been a premium for organic products, so we want Burt’s Bees Baby to be accessible, not just in terms of price point, but where you can find it. We have a very unique distribution model, having the
ability to be just as popular at Target as with Nordstrom. Of course, we don’t carry the exact same product everywhere. It’s all based on calculated consumer demand, but it’s always backed by the same ethos and integrity. How high is the demand for organic clothing these days? It’s very prevalent. While the majority of our customers are healthy-living advocates and believe in sustainable practices, perhaps one of the biggest compliments comes from moms who have told me, ‘I walked up to the fixture, drawn by the unique and beautiful product, but it wasn’t until I got it home I realized it was organic!’ Part of that story tells me we need to do a better job of marketing, but if the product is purchased purely based on the design aesthetic and price point, well, hooray for us! It’s a win-win. What makes your designs different than other organic brands? Most designs today are done digitally. And while I think the ability to churn out prints and patterns quickly is phenomenal, it misses that artisanal element. Our designers start with an old-school approach, hand-painting every print we introduce. We’ve become known for our watercolor and drawing techniques.
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What inspires each collection? Our designers travel the world, looking at color, pattern and detail, which ultimately lends to a mood board. We’re always inspired by nature. You’re never going to see trains, planes and automobiles on our product like you would other boys’ clothing. Both our boys’ and girls’ designs revolve around natural beauty, meaning lots of plants, bugs, animals, flowers and trees.
SMALL TALK Last book: The Tipping Point by Malcolm Gladwell. Favorite movie: Lion. Must-see TV: Fixer Upper. Personal style: Minimalistic. Coveted superpower: Being able to fly!
How important is brand ethos to customers today? Very. While it’s so tempting nowadays to plant your kid in front of an iPad or TV, I think parents are reverting back to a simpler life. Think wood toys, classic books, foraging in the outdoors, which lends to our organic, nature-based designs. With a history of being natural, organic and sustainable, we consider our ethos in every decision. Our paper is recycled. The inks are soy-based. The required polybags are recyclable. It’s all part of our cohesive message built on offering organic products produced using sustainable business practices. We are not doing this to be fashionable. It’s who we are.
Why else do customers choose Burt’s Last supper: Pizzeria Mexicana in Bees over other organic options? Como, Italy. Outside of Burt’s Bees Baby, you have two different ‘buckets’ of organic brands. One Fondest childhood memory: Becoming a naturalized U.S. citizen. is the big box brands like Carter’s or Gerber who try to do organic. But that’s hard for Three items you can’t live withthem due to the stigma they already have What’s trending for Spring/Summer 2019? out: Burt’s Bees lip balm, a cashmere in the marketplace. Many people scratch Sets! We’re producing fewer separates and sweater and clogs. their head when they see a brand that’s designing more sets. When a consumer comes known for conventionally grown cotton or in, they’re ready to buy an outfit and don’t synthetic fiber suddenly doing organic. The need to go through all the hunting and pecking other bucket involves small boutique brands that only do organic, but for a matching pant or top. We released gift sets, which have received a these brands typically have small size runs and higher price points. tremendous response from parents and gift-givers. Our family jammies Burt’s Bees Baby sits right in the middle—easily attainable, authentic are also a bestseller due to the ‘mini me’ craze. We’re looking to keep and affordable. expanding our lounge program after such a great response.
Mid-Atlantic Judy Cohen 856-728-0841 NHC304@comcast.net customerservice@kissykisy.com South/Mid West The Closet 214-634-2402 theclosetdallas@sbcglobal.net
West Coast/Mid West Sylvia Gill Childrenswear - LA 213-622-8271 lashowroom@sylviagill.com
South East Glen Warnick 440-951-9739 gwarsales@aol.com
North East Sonia Schneider 781-407-0050 sonia@finelinesshowroom.com
New York Yoka Showroom 212-594-7714 caroline@yokashowroom.com
North/Mid West Chicago Gallery 312-751-6800 Christy@Chicagogallery showroom.com Europe Finest For Baby Linda Gill 44(0)1442-248099
What’s your best advice for optimizing relationships with your retail partners? The most important aspect is to listen and learn. While I think email is great, I’m old school and prefer to have face-to-face meetings with our retail partners. Whether it’s at a trade show, flying to Minneapolis to meet Target or flying to Seattle to meet Nordstrom, having those face-to-face meetings builds long-standing rapport. Emails are great for getting the day-to-day stuff done, but meeting, listening and learning from your partners is irreplaceable. How did the closing of Babies “R” Us impact your business? We’re okay, but frankly speaking, it’s been tough overall as an industry. In the financial and political climate we’re in, there’s still much uncertainty. There’s talk that the GDP’s growing, but I think people are still conservative in terms of their growth expectations. However, in that last couple of years, we’ve really seen some healthy developments for Burt’s Bees Baby. We started in 2012, and here we are six years later, still thriving even with these setbacks. It helps to have broad experience. Prior to launching Ayablu, I served as VP of design and merchandising at Joseph Abboud, was a director of licensing for Perry Ellis Intl., I founded ElinOtto, a maternity apparel company, and most recently managed (the kitchen and bath brand) Waterworks through its bankruptcy reorganization. Any secrets to success in such a difficult retail climate? Getting smarter and more efficient in how we operate our business. We better understand our relationship with consumers, as well as our whole-
sale partners. In the early days, we’d test a lot of different products and see what sticks. Now we’ve got things like digital data, history and POS selling to better inform us. It constantly evolves our designs and categories based on what’s selling at retail. Amazon, which generates amazing analytics, is one of our fastest growing partners. Our own website has also experienced significant growth. Have you received pushback from retailers for selling Amazon and direct-to-consumer? We’ve had a little pushback from a couple of retailers who said we promote more than they’d like, but unfortunately that’s kind of the environment we’re in today. To be fair, when you look at our competition, I don’t think we promote nearly as much as they do. What’s your primary source of getting the brand’s message out? We try to be where parents are, which today means targeting social media channels. We use authentic parents and babies with real stories. Our brand is about celebrating moms and dads, which must be apparent in our marketing. We also just re-launched our blog this year to create a more engaging and informative platform on our site. What do you love most about your job? I love the fact that there is still so much to do. The bigger the brand becomes, the better we can become—especially in terms of pricing. My mission is for every parent to be able to buy a beautiful, well-made Burt’s
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WHILE THE DAINTY femininity of spaghetti straps has always been appealing, why not take it up a notch and put a bow on it? Be it thick or thin, delicate ties adorn the shoulder of girls’ summer looks spanning shirts, dresses, rompers and jumpsuits. —Emily Beckman
Petit Indi polka dot bubble
BE THE BUYER
Smart Advice Kelly Dowdy, owner of English Rabbit in Beverly Hills, CA, reveals five acumens to her buying strategy. “Seems obvious, but it’s important to remember! Everything is very casual here—California Cool. Kids are not as buttoned up as in New York or Europe, so I look for high-end formal pieces and envision how they’d look with sneakers or a denim jacket before placing an order.” KNOW THE CUSTOMER
“You can’t just operate with what works on paper. Sometimes you have to go with your gut. Sure, that can lead to overbuying, but believe me, taking a risk occasionally can be very rewarding. HOME RUNS I invested a huge portion of my buy in designer clothing when I started, not Playwear: really knowing if the customer would buy Aviator Nation $400 sneakers. Turns out designer kicks Dresswear: for kids are a hit! Now I’m buying double Gucci and triple the size run.” TAKE RISKS
C H O O S E S U P P O R T I V E R E L AT I O N S H I P S
“Although we work with several European brands, it’s important for them to understand the American way of doing business. Quick response time is imperative, especially when there may already be a language barrier. It’s only a buyer’s dream world where everyone uses the same software, so that’s always going to be a challenge. But if my brands can be accommodating beyond that, it’ll make me loyal season after season.”
Shower Gifts: Makié Accessories: Milledeux Outerwear: Moncler Shoes: Gucci Plush: Jellycat Toys:
“I don’t respond Maileg well to cold calls or brands just walking into the store with their wares. To pick up new brands, I typically make private appointments, see reps or go to trade shows. I do love working with brands directly, just on my own time. I like reaching out to them because it makes me feel like I discovered them.” S K I P T H E CO L D C A L L S
TRAVEL MORE “I’ve been to places like New York, Milan, Belgium,
London and Paris, just to name a few. I’ve been able to develop relationships with brands that don’t sell to anyone near me. We even carry Gucci, which is hard to find in this country for kids. It helps me provide the customer with an experience that is luxurious while still friendly and convenient.” w w w. i l o v e p l a y t i m e . c o m
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Why the maternity market is an ideal way for brick-and-mortar stores to bump up sales.
Great Exp ANT TO COMPETE against online merchants? Bumping up one’s maternity selection and service might be just the ticket. For starters, the segment is a BIG business and, like any newborn, is only expected to keep growing. In fact, maternity sales have been on quite a growth spurt of late—up nearly 200 percent since 2014, with more than 75 percent focused in clothing and accessories. Current industry estimates peg the category at $2 billion in the U.S., serving more than 6 million pregnant women each year. What’s more, it’s expected to grow to $7 billion by 2023. What’s fueling this boom? Well, it’s not more babies as fertility rates are projected to continue to decline. Rather, experts point to women waiting longer to start families, which in turn means more disposable income for pregnancy pampering and quality purchases. In addition, women are better informed than ever and want to buy what’s best for their child. Lastly, there’s just so much more stuff to buy. That’s where one-stop-shopping retailers come in backed by expert service. “Women are already overwhelmed with being pregnant, so it’s our job to make it easy for them to shop all in one place,” says Brenda Cornwell, owner of Mom & Me Boutique in Virginia Beach, VA. In addition to all the necessities, Cornwell’s maternity section includes modern-day indulgences like belly casting as well as product exclusives. “When new or expecting moms walk in, they don’t know about what they haven’t read in a book,” she says. “My staff covers the rest—it takes a fellow mom to explain what’s really going on.” Emily Kammerer of Laura Belle Boutique in Farmington, MO, agrees, adding that personal experience from knowledgeable sales associates can be more persuasive than tech sheets. With that, Kammerer only stocks products that she or other moms she knows have used. “Anything I carry in my store has been approved by someone I know,” she says. “I won’t buy anything I don’t know works firsthand because moms need to trust us. Personal stories make all the difference.”
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ectations BY A L E DA J O H N S O N Expectant parents can often overwhelm themselves with online research. First-time moms especially have loads to digest when perusing strollers, cribs, bassinets, burp clothes, layette, diaper bags, blankets, breast pumps, baby monitors, etc. It’s a lot to digest! The process can be fraught with confusion and, worse, result in making the wrong choice. Just because it’s online doesn’t mean it’s true. Why not ask a friendly neighborhood retailer? To ease confusion, Cornwell sets up her displays around newer stock with information about the product. “If Mom doesn’t buy it then, that’s fine, but we still give her information pamphlets so she can learn about it,” she says. “We want her to buy from us, but we also want to educate her about her individual needs.” While some moms may prefer to make buying decisions on their own, maternity experts advise retailers to still be forthcoming about what they think works best. First-time moms don’t always know the ins and outs of each point of their pregnancy and sometimes will buy the wrong product at the wrong time. Ken Vuong, owner of Nest Maternity in San Francisco, sees this often with his West Coast moms. “I have no problem telling my customers to come back when they get bigger,” he says. “I’d rather give them an honest answer and have them come back than have them buy something they didn’t need then or ever needed and never come back.” The same forthright and helpful rule of thumb plays when merchandising maternity items. For example, many retailers agree that clothing for Mom often sells best when clearly marked in its own section. Everything she needs—and doesn’t know she needs—is all there. In addition, it’s wise to sprinkle in select newborn accessories and “mini me” outfits to round out that section. “I make sure to mix some baby products in on the shelves around my maternity section so it encourages cross-buying,” says Kammerer, adding that some mom “must-haves” by the checkout is another good strategy. Here are some other helpful tips and strategies to max out your maternity sales. CE LEB R ATE T HE BUM P With the rise of social media and body positivity movements, moms-tobe have become more open with their changing bodies—and the ability to post it all to their friends. Victoria’s Secret Angel Lily Aldridge, for example, flaunted her five-month baby bump in Brandon Maxwell’s Spring ’19 show and Beyonce’s ethereal pregnancy announcement
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became the most liked Instagram post in 2017. Brands are taking notice and giving moms Insta-worthy products that celebrate their bumps as they grow. Dani Egna, founder of upscale temporary tattoo line Inked by Dani, created a collection just for expecting moms. “We’re here to help empower women to accept their bodies,” Egna says. “We want women to be proud and show off their tatted up bellies.” The line features milestones, birth announcements and tiny footprints. Produce Tees also offers milestoneInked driven products with by Dani Produce apparel graphics that Tees relate the fetus size to fruit. The tri-blend shirts feature peaches, artichokes, watermelons and pumpkins, among other produce items. “Women have become more inclined to celebrate than cover their new shape,” creator Rosie O’Meara says, noting the trend has helped grow her brand. “Moms want options that don’t necessarily hide the bump, but that celebrate this stage in subtle, classic ways.”
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GO T HE D ISTAN CE One of the most prominent trends in the maternity category over the past couple of years has been clothing Mom can wear from pregnancy into postpartum. These “bump and beyond” designs are comfortable during pregnancy, but styled to still look good after the bump is gone. Cornwell carries brands like Entro, Umgee and Blue Heaven in the “Nine Months and Beyond” section of her store. “Even women who aren’t pregnant wear these brands because they’re so well-designed,” she says. Moms are also more likely to spend extra on quality clothing compared to discount maternity attire that will only stay relevant for a few months. “Most moms nurse about a year, so when you buy better quality maternity clothing, it meshes into your regular wardrobe without being obvious or wearing out,” Vuong says, adding that inner support wear is another important investment for KNOWING WHAT the long-term. “When you buy a $40 nursing bra from a box store, clips are going to break with all the fastening and unfastening, EXPECTING MOTHERS the and you’ll have to spend another $40,” he says. Instead, he carries nursing bras by Seraphine—its top seller. “Moms don’t need to buy WILL BE LOOKING a whole lot of cheap bras, just a few that will get you through a year FOR...CAN BE THE of nursing,” Vuong says. Another key clothing item to stock: comfortable shoes! Birkenstock, BOOST TRADITIONAL a brand synonymous with healthy comfort, is a good option. YouTuber Bennett, a mother of three, bought her first pair during pregRETAILERS NEED TO Natalie nancy and hasn’t stopped since, noting they are perfect for swelling OVERCOME LOSSES feet during and after pregnancy. “I didn’t want to worry about lace up shoes or straps that needed to be buckled,” she says. “Every momFROM ONLINE to-be should own a pair of Birkenstocks.”
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The Bird’s Nest Baby Boutique Warsaw, NC
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HONDA COOKE DIDN’T set out to open a baby boutique, but once her children graduated from high school, the stay-at-home mom decided to channel her creativity and passion for rearranging her house into The Bird’s Nest Baby Boutique. “My family has always had an entrepreneurial spirit, and I’ve always been creative,” Cooke says of why she opened the store in 2016. “Plus, there was a need for a specialty children’s store in our county.” Perched on a street corner in the small town of Warsaw, NC, along the Interstate 40 corridor, the 800-square-foot boutique feels like home when customers walk up the front porch of the historical house and through the shrub-adorned entranceway. The Bird’s Nest stocks books, plush, accessories and clothing up to 5T. Cooke’s flock of customers spans moms and grandparents from Raleigh to Wilmington. “We’re near the last rest area before Wrightsville beach, so everyone knows where Warsaw is,” she says. “My customer base has grown because they remember my boutique and come back to see me.” With that, it’s important the store maintains a fresh and diverse assortment. “People think small boutiques just carry dresswear,” Cooke says. “We take pride in our wide selection of toys and plush items for playtime, too.” —Aleda Johnson
tor motifs do well. Brands like Bailey Boys, Banana Split, Kickee Pants, Angel Dear and Zuccini are popular. What about accessories? Stephen Joseph backpacks are big, and we sell a lot of hair bows, swaddle blankets and books. In the winter, Ruffle Butts leggings and footless tights are awesome. We always do well with Bunnies by the Bay swaddle blankets, Elegant Baby and JoJo Maman Bébé. Any advice on how to maximize your baby selection? I have customers come in that say boys are hard to find clothing for because a lot of stores stock primarily girls’. I try really hard to look at boys’ when I’m at market, being mindful to select as many boy options as girl. It’s very easy to overdo it with the girls’ clothing. I’ve successfully curated an even 50-50 split in stock. How do you spread the word about your business? Instagram and Facebook are awesome because everyone finds out about you that way. I research my analytics and although my follower count isn’t high, the followers I do have interact. You look at other stores with huge followers, and I have more likes and comments on my posts than they do. I have a loyal customer base who don’t just follow— they purchase!
How’s business? Compared to our first year, we’re doing much better. How else do you draw customers? The Bird’s Nest stocks books, plush, accessories and clothing We’ve had a steady increase in sales We’re in a small town, so community from newborn to 5T. over the last couple of years. Because events help the most. I have a womof snowbirds, usually summer is the en’s store beside me, so we’ve held slowest season for coastal towns, but block parties in the past and sidewalk we’re far enough from the coast that we still do well even when it’s not sales. So many people come to those from near and far. I also email coubeach season. pons to customers who have signed the guestbook I keep in my store. Who is the Bird’s Nest customer? We get a lot of first-time moms, pregnant women and grandparents, many of them from out of town. I do a lot of shipping and Paypal when customers find The Bird’s Nest on social media.
What’s the smartest business decision you’ve made of late? Widening my brand selection. I will ask customers before I go to market if there’s something they like that I don’t carry. This keeps them engaged with me and not looking elsewhere.
What are you best-selling brands? I try to keep up with the seasons. In the summer, I do well with Prodoh, a fishing brand, and Columbia. I also carry special occasion outfits from Feltman Brothers. We’re in a rural community with farmers, so anything with pigs, cows and trac-
Where do you see The Bird’s Nest in five years? Well, I certainly don’t plan on expanding. My store is in a small house—and I love it this way! I simply plan to continue fostering good relationships with my customers and expanding my clientele year after year.
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TREND WATCH Douglas soft book Doodle Pants leggings
Loulou Lollipop teether
Copper Pearl newborn hat
Baby Noomie snap footie
Baby Starters footed one-piece
Bambino Mio
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Go Slow
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THE SLOTH HAS entered the fast lane with designers. Thanks in part to actress Kristen Bell’s appearance on Ellen, where she recounted her endearing meltdown over a sloth her husband rented for a birthday party, the slow and steady creature has since gone viral. Google trend graphs reveal sloth searches have spiked, leading the tree-hanging animal to make its way into children’s fashion this spring. Sloth-themed merchandise spans girls and boys apparel and accessories as the critter is (apparently) gender neutral. One thing is for sure: The items look to be anything but slow movers at retail. —Emily Beckman
Nano T-shirt
Skip Hop backpack
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PAGE 23 FLUTING AND HAND-EMBROIDERED DETAILS FESTOON SPRING ST YLES STEEPED IN TRADITION.
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G R O O M I N G BY C H R I ST I N A NICOLE ERRANTE
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IN THE BAG
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1. Under the Nile organic whale plush 2. Loulou Lollipop pearl teething necklace 3. Little Giraffe blanket 4. ZippyJamz footed onepiece 5. 1+ in the Family teether 6. Velveteen diaper cover 7. Mayoral Newborn boat shoes 8. Waddle rattle socks 9. Kissy Kissy outfit 10. Skip Hop diaper bag.
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Anchors Aweigh! Making waves with nautical style, this ultra-chic mama swaps smiling tugboats and singing fish for deep blue fabrics, gold hardware, classic stripes and tasteful anchor motifs. Mini boat shoes, gold-accented diaper covers, plush navy blankets and mother-of-pearl teething necklaces climb aboard the trend as well. —Emily Beckman
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sleep. While full-length Boppy body pillows have been popular for years, brands like Boppy are opting for other shapes to address all pain points. British vlogger Louise Pentland used Boppy’s Wedgie pillow during her last pregnancy. “It was one of the only things that helped me sleep,” she told her 2.5 million subscribers, adding that she would place it under her bump when she slept on her side. The wedge pillow’s small size also makes it easy to tote around and place between the knees while lying down or placing behind the back for lumbar support at work. U-shaped body pillows like those from Moonlight Slumber or Remedy offer additional support beyond the bump. These pillows are contoured to wrap around the body to either prop Mom up or sandwich her front and back once she starts sleeping on her side in the second trimester. Bennett used a U-shaped body pillow during her pregnancies. “It helps so much because it gives the body support in areas a mattress just can’t,” she told her 112,000 subscribers in a third trimester product haul video. “I loved it so much I passed it on to pregnant friends.” The U-shaped pillow also helped Bennett postpartum when she had hip issues and while nursing. Bellybands are another method to offer daily relief for aching backs in the third Belly Bandit trimester. Lori Caden, CEO and co-founder of Belly Bandit, designed its Upsie Belly and B.D.A. line of leggings and tanks with expecting moms’ comfort in mind. “Millennial moms want clothes that look good and most importantly feel good,” she says. “They also want products that can take them from work to workout.” Thus, Belly Bandit’s new athleisure line, launching next month. It’s just one more reason why Caden believes the maternity category offers big potential going forward. “Knowing what expecting mothers will be looking for and adding it to your shelves can be the boost traditional retailers need to overcome losses from online competition,”
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DESIGNER CHAT
ALTHOUGH FAMILY HAD been pushing the former Crocs and Lily Pulitzer designer to create her own line for years, it wasn’t until Anne Klein was giving her nieces and nephews playful “fish kisses” in 2014 that inspiration struck. “I started teasing I would call the brand Fish Kiss,” Klein says, noting that she was curious enough to see if that name was taken. “When I saw it hadn’t, I took it as a sign to pursue the idea.” Combining her experience Anne Klein in the fashion industry with a personal love for mapmaking, the Colorado native got to work on creating her state- and travel-themed collection of children’s and gift items. “I wanted my designs to have a strong emotional appeal,” she says. “I drew on social media for help to avoid my map designs from being too ‘typical.’” Polling in-state and out-of-state participants, Klein sifted through the feedback of favorite places before hand-drawing a map of nostalgic landmarks in a whimsical, colorful style. After her first two designs, Colorado and Texas, sold out immediately, she spent the next two years perfecting the other 48 states. The collection now includes one-
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pieces, hats and swaddles of every state, which have grown popular for birth announcements and newborn portraits. Klein always knew the details would be what makes the collection. “Our mission of reviving fond memories is carried through every aspect of the product,” she says, noting American pride carries through the entire production process. “The manufacturing is done in Georgia and the printing in North Carolina, then the product is sent to Colorado for packaging and tagging by hand,” Klein adds. This May, Fish Kiss made its debut in select Nordstrom stores and its website, in addition to independent retailers across the country. “We’re excited to get more Fish Kiss to people who haven’t heard about us,” Klein says, adding she has plans to branch beyond U.S. borders both in sales and design themes. She has already received requests to do countries in Europe, but she won’t necessarily go strictly the mapthemed route. “We’re working on ideas that aren’t location-inspired, but inspirational to people for other reasons,” she hints. —Aleda Johnson How’s business this year? Business is growing, but we’re also mindful about by how much. We’ve been approached by big stores but haven’t pulled the trigger because we want to do things well. If we explode into department stores everywhere, I don’t want to lower the quality of our product or the customers’ expectations of us. Who is the Fish Kiss customer? We serve the modern family who wants beautiful designs that are relatable but not offputting. We try
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to make them affordable (one-pieces are $38 SRP) but also practical. We understand if you buy a tea towel or pillow you may spill on it and need to be able to wash it with ease. What’s been performing best? We just launched this beautiful tea towel that even I use in my kitchen. Parents love using it as burp cloths because it holds up to being washed a million times and the illustrations are kid-friendly since they hide stains well. What are you doing to gain brand awareness? Social media is important for us. I love working directly with customers. They’ve even given input on some of the designs. Moms will also send me pictures of birth announcements that include our brand, and I love sharing that. Any secrets when designing for children? I learned this at Crocs: Have fun! Kids have such wonderful imaginations, and if you’re designing for them and can’t tap into that it won’t resonate. I have to think of who I’m designing for, which lets me be a kid at heart. What do you love most about being a designer? I love to draw. It’s like an off button for the world. I pick up my pencil or paintbrush, and it’s an escape. You tap into your imagination, and the possibilities are endless. This helps with the CEO part of me, too—I’m always looking to the future.
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Runnin’ Wild Kids Shoes Brooklyn, NY
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ROOKLYN NATIVE STACEY Fauci always wanted to own her own business, be it a coffee shop, café or boutique. When Fauci’s husband, Anthony, lost his job at the same time the neighborhood kids’ shoe store closed, she knew it was time to pounce. “It wasn’t easy to drive to the Staten Island Mall for a proper fit and price,” Fauci, a former retail manager, says. In the summer of 2012, the Faucis opened Runnin’ Wild Kids Shoes in the borough’s family-friendly Cobble Hill section, stocking everything from crib shoes to tween sizes. The 900-square-foot store is stocked with top brands like Nike, Puma and Stride Rite, as well as first walkers from See Kai Run and Old Soles. In addition to a strong selection, Fauci credits her trained staff’s sit-and-fit approach to attracting customers. “It’s not the easiest job in the world, and you have to have a lot of patience,” Fauci says of properly fitting children. “Kids cry because they think you’re the doctor, but I want everyone to be happy with what’s on their feet.” Her staff, for example, knows which brands run narrow or wide and can fit feet properly, which would be, at best, a guess shopping online. Fauci believes Runnin’ Wild provides a much-needed service to fellow neighborhood families, but it’s also a labor of love. “Running the store can be chaotic, but I thrive on making kids happy when they walk out with their new favorite shoes,” she says. —Aleda Johnson How’s business? Great. Unfortunately, three children’s shoe stores have closed in our area over the last few months. But it’s been great for us. I’ve had to add more staff on the weekends and restock more than I used to.
have to be practical. Some sales reps might say this is their No. 1 selling style, but if it’s not easy to walk in then I know it won’t sell in my store. What’s the smartest business decision you’ve made in the past year? Revamping our website, KidShoesDirect.com. Our previous site didn’t do well. We’ve changed platforms, and it’s doing better. We still only do a small percentage of sales online, but it helps move inventory that doesn’t move in the store, so it’s necessary. It also helps with people who may be looking and then come into our store. I think it will continue to grow, and if it does maybe we can expand into the basement space. What’s the most effective way to reach customers? I don’t do much more than post to Instagram and Facebook, plus our website. Our business is mostly word of mouth because we’re a walking neighborhood. People pop in when they need shoes. But it’s not just my neighborhood. We get people from all over Brooklyn and even Queens. Now if it’s 10 degrees for three days in December or 110 in the summer, we’re slow. Most of our customers are walking, not driving a car to the mall. That affects business. In addition to great product that sells, what else are you looking for from vendors? I’m looking for good price points and the ability to restock quickly. The products also have to be good quality since a lot of kids wear out their shoes before they go up to the next size.
What are your goals for the rest of this year? Honestly, I’d just like to keep Customers keep coming back for Fauci’s strong selection What are your top-selling brands? this pace up. While I feel bad for my and traditional sit-and-fit approach. Nike is No. 1 because kids love sneakformer competitors, I’m happy we’re ers. See Kai Run and Plae also do really doing something right and customers are well. We’ve just added Old Soles in the coming to us. My husband and I are both last year, and I’ve been very happy. Their styles are great, and they fit hands-on owners. We don’t want people to walk out unhappy. If nothreally well. I also look for brands that are hard to find online—European ing fits properly, we’d rather not put them in a shoe just to make a sale. brands like Naturino and Ricosta. What is a challenge facing your business? Stocking the right How about accessories? We don’t sell a lot of accessories, but we do inventory is challenging. I don’t know if I’ll have enough of this or carry socks, shoelaces, hats and gloves. Backpacks from JanSport and that. The store is small, and I don’t know if I’ll blow out of a size, style MadPax are top sellers on our website. We also do well with raincoats. or brand. It’s hard to judge. Retail is an interesting business, and it’s Hatley and 08 Lifestyle are our top brands. not for the weak. Any unique preferences of Cobble Hill customers? As far as style, high-tops are very big right now. I think the neighborhood likes not overly trendy styles but something kids can be comfortable wearing since this is a walking neighborhood. I can carry trendy items, but they
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Where do you see Runnin’ Wild in five years? Something realistic, like expanding into the basement space. Because expanding to a bigger location may not be the best move. Higher rent doesn’t guarantee more people walking through the door. That’s why I hope the website takes off.
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American Jewel wholesale@americanjewel.com p. 17 AmericasMart Atlanta p. 18 Angel Dear kim@angeldear.net p. cover 3 Bearpaw edna@bearpawshoes.com p. 7 BooginHead info@booginhead.com p. 37 Buckle Me Baby Coats drizk@bucklemecoats.com p. 35 Elegant Baby service@elegantbaby.com p. 2 Fun Socks fun@funsocks.com p. 1 Gerber customerservice@ gerberchildrenswear.com p. 3 JPMA cjordan@jpma.org p. 37 Kickee Pants hello@kickeepants.net p. 13
Kissy Kissy customerservice@ kissykissy.com p. 12 Little Giraffe orders@littlegiraffe.com p. cover 2 Little Me customerservice@littleme.com p. cover 4 Mama Luma hello@mamaluma.com p. 21 Mayoral mayoral.usa@mayoral.com p. 5 Mud Pie order@mudpie.com p. 15 Playtime (Advertorial) newyork@iloveplaytime.com p. 15 Rashti & Rashti contactus@rashtiandrashti.com p. 11 Simply Chickie simplychickie@gmail.com p. 21 Snapper Rock sales@snapperrock.com p. 35 For information on advertising, contact Noelle Heffernan, publisher, at noelle.heffernan@9threads.com
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FINAL CUT
Class Act
Brimming with passion, 13-year-old model, dancer and actress Amalina Ace hits the streets to discover all New York has to offer. By Emily Beckman ANSWERING HER CELL phone with a cheery, “Bonjour!,” 13-year-old precocious New Yorker Amalina Ace opened the conversation with an overly humble introduction to her ambitious lifestyle. “I just do my best,” she says. “I’ll give anything a try.” On that note, the aspiring actress, dancer, signed model of Ohlsson Model & Talent and talk-show host for the YouTube channel Kids Chat Show is constantly discovering new passions. Along with recently enrolling in a jazz dance class, Ace rattled off ballet, tap and African dance as genres she’s dabbled with in the past. “I also love learning new languages,” she says. “I’m learning French, Russian and I’ve gotten very involved with ASL (American Sign Language).” Living with two sisters, a brother and her rambunctious Pomeranian, Blue, Ace admits to having a fun (and occasionally crazy) household. “I’m homeschooled, which allows me the flexibility in my schedule to pursue so many different activities,” she says. “Living in the city and being surrounded by so much amazing talent is really a dream come true.” How would you describe your personal style? Hmm…I’d call it ‘dancer on a day off’ because I always want my outfits to be functional. If someone says ‘Dance!’ I want to be able to. I do backbends whenever I can, so if I’m wearing a dress you can bet there’s shorts under it! Where’s your favorite place to shop? I’m a big fan of thrift stores. I find it exciting to discover things that are different. I love arts and crafts though, so I make a lot of fashionable things from DIY projects at home. What’s something you’ve designed of late? Well, I’m going to Disney World in a few days, so I was looking at Minnie Mouse ears online. They were all super expensive, so I decided to make my own by taking an old headband, crocheting
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wrinkly or not the right color—I don’t want that. Where do you look for style inspiration? I live right by Fifth Avenue, so I usually window shop. Instagram and Pinterest are also fun for fashion ideas. Do you post your own #OOTD on social media? Sometimes. I also post a lot of dance photos. I post whatever I’m inspired by that day. Even my dog Blue has her own Instagram page! We dyed her paws red so she looks like she’s wearing Louis Vuitton’s! What trends are you and your friends obsessed with right now? A lot of neutral basics—black, white, grays. But I don’t mind accenting it with color. Pretty pastels are fun or even a cool denim jacket. And sparkles—lots of sparkles!
FA S T FAV O R I T E S Celebrities: Zendaya, Selena Gomez and Beyoncé! Movie: The Princess and the Frog and Hitchcock movies. TV show: I don’t really watch TV that much. Music: Rolling Stones and Panic! at the Disco. School subject: Science—I like the cool experiments.
How about reversible sequins? Yes, I love those! I’d also say my friends and I do a lot of mix-and-matching with different styles. If I’m going to wear a tutu, I’d pair it with combat boots. Besides combat boots, what other shoes do you like? Converse! Really anything comfy for walking around the city. How do you accessorize? I love all jewelry. Accessories can change a whole look.
a pair of Minnie Mouse ears and cutting out a bow from felt. I put those pieces together and added decorations. It came out great!
Any hobbies? I love making ASL music videos. I found someone on YouTube who stared doing songs in ASL, and I thought it was cool. I post my videos on Instagram. I even organized a homeschooling group in New York where we go to a library for an hour and speak only in ASL.
Do you shop online frequently? Not really. I just look. I prefer to shop in stores. I like being able to feel clothes before I buy them. When you buy stuff online it can arrive all
Where do you see yourself in five years? Continuing to improve my acting and dancing. I hope to one day become a professional actress. I need to keep working hard!
Color: Pink! Gold is second.
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