Earnshaw's | September 2016 by Wainscot Media

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VOLUME 100 NUMBER 8

SEPTEMBER 201 6 $10.00

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S E P T E M B E R 2016 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Kristin Young Editor-in-Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL

F E ATURE S 12 Great Expectations An array of trendy spring accessories guaranteed to bump up your bottom line. 16 Stacking the Odds Kahn Lucas Executive Chairman Howard Kahn on being nimble and predicting bestsellers.

FAS HION

PAGE 34

24 An American in Paris Get into a Parisian state of mind with sweet frocks, whimsical graphics and playful pieces to layer come spring.

This page: Little Lids beret, Andy & Evan dress and jacket, Puma socks.

D E PART M E N TS

On cover: Little Lids beret, Sons + Daughters sunglasses, Kenzo sweatshirt, Hello Simone skirt.

4 Editor’s Note 8 Hot-Button Issue 20 Trend Watch 34 Up Close

Photography by Zoe Adlersberg; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; production assistant: Heather McCoy; digital capture: Imagin’ Paris. Shot on location in Paris.

36 New Resources 38 Licensing News 40 Parting Shot

Lauren Olsen Associate Editor Emily Beckman Associate Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 135 West 20th Street Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 135 West 20th Street, Suite 402 New York, NY 10011. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Oh La La! he September issue is Earnshaw’s ode to Spring ’17 style. To celebrate the season, Contributing Fashion Editor Mariah Walker and Photographer Zoe Adlersberg took to the streets of Paris, bringing to life “An American in Paris” on p. 24. The City of Light proved the perfect background to capture the mood of childrenswear for the season—in a word: refined. Another movement we’re observing in the kids’ market is the demand for sun-protective clothing. In “Fun in the Sun,” p. 8, it became clear that sunprotective clothing is more than just good business—for some executives, it is a personal mission to raise awareness. The ability to delight consumers with exciting new product is the hallmark of any strong season—and accessories are key to racking up add-on sales. Take a peek at next spring’s hottest trends in our Accessory Preview on p. 12. Meanwhile, as the industry looks ahead at next year’s trends, I’d like to take a moment to revel in the present. As this issue went to press, global strategy and consulting firm A.T. Kearney released a survey that indicates this year’s back-toschool season is on a stronger trajectory than in recent years. “Although online retail sales continue to increase, 57 percent

of our survey respondents plan to make purchases in stores,” says Joel Aiden, the survey’s author. Amidst a spate of store closings, that should give the industry some hope. According to the study, the two most important factors to consumers are competitive pricing and a superior in-store experience, along with online and mobile support. In fact, 30 percent more consumers are open to shopping by apps and personalized promotions than they were during the holiday shopping survey nine months ago. That rapid growth is staggering and indicative of where retail is going. Customers want a seamless experience whether retailers interact with them in brick-andmortar channels or online. Retailers and apparel manufacturers often get a bad rap for being slow to embrace new technologies or ways of doing business. However, our Q&A with Kahn Lucas Executive Chairman Howard Kahn, p. 16, reveals that even a 127-year-old childrenswear apparel company can embrace the future. Kahn has turned the company into a “smart” resource with the ability to predict bestsellers. We are an industry in transition, to be sure, but it also appears we have the ability to adapt. I can’t help but be optimistic for the future.

KRISTIN YOUNG k ri s ti n .yo u n g @ 9 t h r e a d s . co m

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SMALL TALK

The It Kids of Instagram MEET THE TINY TOTS WHO ARE RULING STREET STYLE VIA SOCIAL MEDIA.

Haileigh @hails_world Sailor and Birdie @bleubird

Grey @ministylehacker

Ryker @ministylehacker

Elle @babyellestyle

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OR THOSE SEEKING mini style inspiration, look no further than these stylish tikes trending on Instagram: Haileigh and Elle are giving grown-up fashionistas a run for their money, while Alonso, Ryker and Grey are dapper dandies in the making. Not to mention duo Sailor and Birdie who sure make a study in casual laid-back dressing. These pint-sized tastemakers have gone viral before even learning to drive! #Goals.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF: SANDRA SECRET | SECRET PHOTOGRAPHY, LINDA PARRA, MINI STYLE HACKER, INSTAGRAM, BLUEBIRDBLOG AND LUISA FERNANDA ESPINOSA.

Alonso @luisafere

H O T- B U T T O N I S S U E

Fun in the Sun FUTURE DEMAND FOR SUN-PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES LOOKS BRIGHT.

T’S ASSOCIATED WITH one of the “We have seen strong and steady growth scariest words out there: cancer. Its over the last several years in our line of suneffects are cumulative and much of the protective clothing,” confirms L.L. Bean damage can happen before a child turns 18 spokesperson Mac McKeever. The Freeport, years old. It’s the sun. And parents’ desire to Maine, brand produces a number of UPF keep their children safe while playing out50+ products, including T-shirts and swim doors is giving rise to a growing category, shorts for boys and leggings and surf shirts sun-protective clothing and accessories. for girls. “Our outerwear and apparel has According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, always helped protect folks from the eleabout 23 percent of lifetime ultraviolet (UV) ments, be it cold, rain, snow or wind as well radiation from the sun can occur before a as the sun’s damaging rays,” he says. child turns 18. And here’s another soberManufacturers say the growth in kidswear, ing fact: Over the past three decades, more in particular, has been palpable. Meadow people have had skin cancer than all other Lacy, executive vice president of sales and cancers combined. marketing at Ashland, Ore.-based Sunday Millennial moms, in particular, have grown Afternoons, says the demand for kid’s sunup aware of the harmful effects of the sun. Add protective clothing has been the fastestto that reports that some pediatricians do not growing segment of the 25-year-old busirecommend using sunscreen under the age ness for the last two years. “It’s the brightest of two combined with the high cost of childbusiness to be in at the moment,” he says. friendly sunscreen and the market has seen And there are more and more childrensthe demand for sun-protective clothing climb. wear manufacturers getting into the sun“Sun-protective clothing is an emerging and protective game. Shade Critters, based in growing category for the last 10 to 15 years Palm Beach, Fla., was born out of necesin the U.S.,” says Adheer Bahulkar, a partner in the retail practice of global strategy and management consulting firm A.T. Kearney. “This category really originated in the late ’80s and ’90s in the Australia/New Zealand market and was brought to the U.S. by some of those brands. Australians spend five times more on sun-protective clothing than they do on sunscreen. The U.S. sunscreen market is more than $1 billion, and if you believe the same opportunity exists, then one can surmise the potential is eventually in the Prodoh range of $5 to $10 billion.”

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sity a year ago when Fred Schmidt and his wife Maureen couldn’t find sun-protective clothing that their daughter wanted wear. Now, one year later the line of UPF 50+ swimwear and clothing—even tutus— for sizes 6 months to 14 years is carried in 700 doors with “strong” sell-throughs, says Fred. “I tell my stores, it’s the only thing in the stores that the doctor told them they need to buy,” he says. “There’s a demand driven by necessity.” DJ Doherty and Evan Proffitt, two avid fishermen from Greenville, S.C., had a mission to get their kids outdoors but couldn’t find fishing shirts with sun-protective properties. They ended up launching Prodoh (a mashup of their last names) in 2012 which produces UPF 50+ and UPF 20+ clothing. Proffitts’ wife, Mell, now runs the day-today operations with Doherty’s wife, Stacey. “As far as the general public, the scare of the sun has made people aware and sales have picked up speed recently,” says Stacey. “We hear from parents that they love our stuff because the kids are out in the water all day and they’re keeping them safe.” In four short years, Prodoh has grown from sun-protective fishing shirts for boys and girls to a collection featuring gingham tie dresses, boys’ and girls’ swimwear, hats, belts, shorts and T-shirts. The line is now in 300 specialty stores. While the demand is there, it is also true that there are extra layers to the sun-protective clothing business. Research is a key focus, and many executives say it has been a learning curve working with protective fabric. Increasing the level of

P H O T O G R A P H Y C O U R T E S Y O F P R O D O H , B A B I AT O R S A N D S U N D AY A F T E R N O O N S

B Y K R I S T I N YO U N G

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Babiators

protection, for example, can process for us,” she adds. introduce unwanted fabric “All this research is so new. behaviors such as wrinkling Think about what we knew or lack of breathability. The about tobacco a generamost common level of protion ago.” tection in clothing is UPF When Rhonda Sparks lost 50+, or the highest level a her husband to melanoma textile can have and still 15 years ago, she started behave like a non-protecUV Skins to educate peotive fabric. And in order for S U N - P R O T E C T I V E ple. “It’s not a trend for us,” a company to claim a cer- T E R M I N O L O G Y says the self-proclaimed UV tain protection level, samteam captain, noting the ples must be tested by an Ultraviolet Protection Factor Sonora, Calif.,-based com(UPF) refers solely to the safeindependent third party. pany always accompanies guarding properties of fabric. “We send it off to our lab And there are many techniques product with some form in North Carolina,” says to achieving sun-protective of education such as broStacey. “They have scien- textiles, either by dipping, coatchures. “It’s definitely our tific formulas beyond any- ing or weaving sun-protective mission to raise awareness.” threads into the fabric itself. thing I could explain. Let’s Christie Naegele, director UPF is not to be confused with just say you don’t get your Sun Protection Factor (SPF), of marketing for Coolibar, samples back. They put it which usually refers to the also works closely with traits of skincare lotions, sprays through the paces.” the medical field. She “When we first launched, or other topical treatments. says the brand is present Protection from the sun’s ultrawe got a lot of ‘Huh?’” at the American Academy violet A (UVA) and Ultraviolet B explains Molly Fienning, (UVB) rays are typically present of Dermatology’s annual who co-founded sun-pro- in sunglasses. meeting every year and regtective baby sunglasses line ularly collects information Babiators in 2011. Fienning’s husband is from the Skin Cancer Foundation. “We do a Marine Corps fighter pilot, and the idea rigorous testing on-site and off-site,” she was born on a military base where she saw says, noting that while the brand is based her fellow military wives’ kids squinting in in Minneapolis, it was originally born in the sun while their pilot moms and dads Australia. “We hold ourselves up to the stood protected in their stylish aviators. Australian standards and we guarantee Now, Babiators is carried in 3,000 stores our products up to 50 washes.” in 45 countries. “Within the last year or While the benefits are clear, sun-protwo we’ve seen an increase in interest,” tective clothing may be attractive to she says. “Parents slather their kids with moms simply for its ease of use. “We call sunscreen but the eyes are [Coolibar] the effortless sunjust as susceptible. A big part screen,” says Naegele. “Kids of this is educating them.” just want to be out there and Fienning works closely with play and why chase the kid all The Vision Council keeping over the place trying to put tabs on medical facts and cursunscreen on them? Why rent statistics which she then Sunday have the fight?” relays back to retailers and Afternoons As Lacy puts it: “It’s all customers. “It’s a learning about having fun outside.”

CMY

H O T- B U T T O N I S S U E

A Nose for Scent AROMATIC KIDS’ ITEMS ARE SPROUTING ALL OVER — HERE’S WHAT TO KNOW AND HOW TO CAPITALIZE ON A FRAGRANCE-FIRST APPROACH. BY LAUREN OLSEN

HERE’S NOTHING QUITE like catching a whiff of something pleasant. And whether it’s from chocolaty, sticky fingers or afternoons spent sucking honeysuckle nectar, the love for scent applies to kiddies, especially. The result? A major fragrant boost in childrens’ products—from lemonscented plush characters and tangerine-scented backpack clips (check out Whiffer Sniffers) to scented clothing and even kid- or baby-friendly perfume. The industry has never smelled better. “The scent trend is on an upward swing,” confirms Sarah Malchow, a public relations executive and event planner at tween girls’ brand Fashion Angels. “Scent turns an otherwise mundane product into something with a little edge.” Malchow, whose brand offers a scented rainbow unicorn sparkle hair kit as well as scented highlighters featuring fragrances from cotton candy to banana split sundae, maintains that mood-lifting fragrances are great additions to any item. “They put a smile on anyone’s face,” she says. “Just look at all the scented lip balms out there,” echoes Jill Callan, owner of Tiny You Children’s Boutique on Long Island, N.Y., explaining that these items are huge sellers. “Being a kid is all about learning and experiencing new things—scent is one more sense to explore.” As far as which scents are most appealing, Danielle Riniker, scent expert and owner at everythingsmells.com, a retailer most popular for its scratch-and-sniff stickers, attests that while adults are drawn to coffee, beach and dessert fragrances, children instead love fruit and food scents. “Disgusting” scents are also a hit, she adds. “They’d take a skunk sticker over a strawberry sticker any day.” Malchow agrees “funny” or “funky and unusual” scents are well-received by little noses. Think pickle, popcorn or frappucino. Christophe Laudamiel, master perfumer at DreamAir and president of The Academy of Perfumery and Aromatics, who has worked on fragrances from brands Tom Ford, Abercrombie & Fitch, Ralph Lauren and Clinique, confirms that kids like “strong, recognizable” scents. Stores are increasingly turning their attention to fragrance. “I’ve had wall plug-ins since day one and people always com-

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ment, usually breathe deep and smile,” says Callan. “What a perfect way to welcome someone into the store—it helps to give the consumer a pleasant experience.” Her team also periodically sprays perfumes throughout to encourage the customer to check out the store’s stock of fragrances. “This then leads to a sale,” she says. “Scent helps to evoke the feeling we want portray, which is a happy place to shop.” Laudamiel, on the other hand, recommends professional scent players (as stand-alone or in the HVAC system) which don’t have some of the drawbacks plug-ins and candles can have (Laudamiel describes wall plug-ins as being too weak and uncustomized for retail, whereas lit candles, while “poetic,” can be dangerous). Seasonal touches are effective as well, notes Meg Fisher, owner and founder of Lincoln & Lexi, a boutique in West Des Moines, Iowa. For the holidays, Fisher suggests scents like cranberry or pine in cooler months, and fresh or fruitier selections when it’s warmer. “All five senses need to be hit,” she urges. Laudamiel cites compelling potential effects of a sniff-worthy store: People stay longer, people perceive higher levels of quality, people think a higher price is justified (5 to 10 percent higher), they remember the space and get “a shot of good mood.” Laudamiel adds that scent can be a way to attract people to physical stores instead of shopping online. So what’s the olfactory upshot? The availability of scent in childrens’ products will only smell better with time. “As technology improves, scents will get even better, last longer, and manufacturers will be able to get even more experimental when it comes to what products can be scented,” explains Malchow. Laudamiel adds, “Kids should be trained with scents. It is good for intelligence, for memory, for vocabulary and for storytelling in just about any discipline at school.” According to Riniker, the key is to ensure the fragrances and materials are non-toxic. “That is number one on parents’ minds,” she stresses. But in the meantime, whether the consumer kiddie prefers scents of cookies, magnolias or goo, sniff-worthy products will always be a hit with the little ones. As Malchow puts it: “There will always be room for good-smelling, scented products in the children’s market.” •

Congratulations to the nominees!

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Earnshaw’s is pleased to congratulate the following companies for being selected as nominees in the 2016 Earnie Awards. Thousands of votes were cast and hundreds of brands were nominated but ulitmately only four brands per category made the ballot. Now it’s up to you to decide who will walk away with each prestigious title.

Vote now at www.earnieawards.com! Voting takes place Aug. 1 to Sept. 25. Winners will be notified in early October and later be interviewed by our editors for an indvidual profile in Earnshaw’s November/December issue. Go vote for your favorites now!

Best Hosiery Collection BabyLegs Jefferies Socks Goldbug Stride Rite

Best Sleepwear Collection Kickee Pants Kissy Kissy Hatley Little Me

Best Novelty Items Chewbeads Mud Pie Little Giraffe Esme

Company of the Year Mud Pie Aden + Anais United Legwear & Apparel Co. GBYM

Best Footwear Collection Livie & Luca AKID Pediped Skechers

Best Licensed Apparel & Accessories Collection Carter’s by Rashti & Rashti Sesame Street by SG Companies Puma by United Legwear & Apparel Co. Disney by Western Chief

Best Gear Ju-Ju-Be LÍllébaby Skip Hop Balboa Baby

Most Charitable Company Rockin’ Baby State Bags Hero New York Billie Blooms

Best New York Showroom/Reps Ali’s Market The Rose Garden Nancy Markert/Amy Hoffman Ilene Oren & Co.

Editor’s Picks: New Resources Henny & Coco Blu & Blue Romy & Aksel Andorine

Best Accessories Collection Wee Ones Jamie Rae Hats Chewbeads The Beaufort Bonnet Company Best Outerwear Collection Appaman American Widgeon Mack & Co. Oil & Water Best Swimwear Collection Snapper Rock Submarine Swim Kate Mack Platypus Australia Best Dresswear Collection Biscotti Isobella & Chloe Joan Calabrese for Mon Cheri Isabel Garretón Best Denim Collection Joe’s Kids Hudson Kids Levi’s Tractr Jeans

Best Infantwear/Layette Collection Kickee Pants Lemon Loves Layette Coccoli Egg by Susan Lazar Best Boys’ Collection Appaman Frenchie Mini Couture Andy & Evan Kapital K Best Girls’ Collection Deux Par Deux Design History Imoga MaeLi Rose Best Tween Collection Terez Malibu Sugar Limeapple PPLA Best International Collection Catimini Mayoral Joules JoJo Maman Bébé

Best Los Angeles Showroom/ Reps InPlay Showroom The Glitter Box Teresa’s Room Rebecca Eberschoff Best Chicago Showroom/Reps Whitney Douglas Showroom Tree-House of Fashion K.I.T Showroom Elite Kids Best Atlanta Showroom/Reps Summer Place Teacup Tots Elisabeth Everly & Co. The Klein Group Best Dallas Showroom/Reps Accentrics Showroom Cultivated Kids, Inc. The Closet The Klein Group

ACCESSORY PREVIEW: SPRING/SUMMER ’17

Great Expectations BY EMILY BECKMAN

HEN ASKED TO forecast the Spring ’17 accessory market in three words, Jamara Ghalayini replied without skipping a beat: “Super. Easy. Money.” Ghalayini, the owner of Pumpkinheads in Brentwood, Calif., could barely keep up with the accessories flying off her shelves. “You never have to put them on sale because they always sell,” she exclaims. “We call them ‘neccessories.’” The accessory boom gained traction this year, according to several retailers, with a unanimous projection that accessories will be critical to sales come Spring ’17. Wondering what to stock up on? Think oldies but goodies, from wooden beads to retro patchwork.

Now, don’t get us wrong—the digital craze is still going strong, with every emoji accounted for, but the retro resurgence is a pivotal point in new collections. “I really believe these kids have less imaginative play opportunities,” reports Alex Hillson, owner and founder of Los Angeles-based jewelry company Bottleblond Jewels. “They are simply put in front of an iPad or television which doesn’t allow kids to use their imagination,” she says. Hillson believes that the market is starting to realize this deficiency and is taking small steps toward more classic kiddie styles. That being said, the sophisticated Mommy & Me trend remains prevalent in the market, but expect to see such twinning infused with more color and childlike elements for spring.

Between the Lines A staple in entertainment for kids (and even adults nowadays) is coloring. While coloring books are the foundation for this fun and creative outlet, items like backpacks, pillows and socks represent a new canvas for kids to make their own individual statements. “At Crayola, we believe that creativity is cool,” states Jill Crane, product manager at the iconic company. “More and more, adults are finding that anyone at any age can benefit from the creative process.” Indeed, the modern coloring craze is a great way for both kids and adults to disconnect from the wired world and spend some relaxing family time together. Iscream

Living Royal Books To Bed

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OMY

children’s world

LIlies & Roses

Caliente Couture According to Fashion Snoops Trend Editor Nicole Yee, the tropical trend we’re seeing for Spring ’17 is a result of President Obama lifting the embargo on Cuba. “Americans have access to a country that has been shut off to us and romanticized for decades,” Yee explains. “Hence, Chanel showed its Spring ’17 resort collection there, you have celebs visiting and it goes on.” Appaman Yee says to look for apparel launching into more tailored silhouettes from the ’50s and ’60s, reinvigorated with kitschy prints and mosaic tile patterns (another nod to retro). Palm tree, flamingo and parrot prints are off-the-charts for accessories. Lastly, top everything off with a straw fedora—not to Hello Shiso mention a virgin Piña Colada.

Lily & Momo

Pink Chicken

Join Us in October In the Bag

Everbloom

Sugar

Haute Hits

Designer-inspired bags and backpacks continue to combine fashion with function. Bold prints and highcontrast colors steal the show for Spring ’17 as little girls—and even boys—are becoming bag-obsessed. “I see kids having bags like I have bags,” Ghalayini exclaims. “We have little girls with five, six, seven handbags! In fact, we do $60 add-on sales with Chloe K bags simply because it looks good with the outfit.” The No. 1 sack to stock? Keep an eye out for the rise of the bucket bag.

Children’s World at October Atlanta Apparel SHOWROOMS

October 6 –10, 2016 TEMPORARIES

October 6 – 9, 2016

800.ATL.MART

CLOCK WISE STA RTING ON LEF T: L i v ie a nd Luc a, Le mon Love s L ime, A nd y a nd Eva n, Sna pp e r Roc k

ACCESSORY PREVIEW: SPRING/SUMMER ’17 Pretty in Past Say hello to slap bracelets and

Tia Cibani Andy & Evan

Watchitude eKids

Hipstapatch

chokers from the ’90s, and don’t forget the super trendy patchwork for customizing backpacks, hats and even laptops. Carol Adams, owner of Torly Kid in New York City, foresees another blast from the past piggybacking off a recent digital craze: Pokémon. “I believe Pokémon will be making a pretty big comeback next year due to the Pokémon Go app,” predicts Adams. In more couture pieces, wooden accessories are on the rise. “Wood lasts,” says Bottleblond’s Hillson. “It’s always been a really great material and safe for kids. It connotes quality.” While more synthetic materials are being swapped for good ol’ wood, designers like Tia Cibani are putting a modern twist on the classic beaded jewelry with bright colors, geometric shapes and satin ribbons.

We Are Proud to be Nominated!

Best Licensed Apparel and Accessories Category: Carter’s Gifts

1-800-4-RASHTI www.rashtiandrashti.com

Henny and Coco

Fragrant Fashion Turns out the freshest trend for Spring ’17 is right under your nose. Designers ripped a page from the art of scratch ‘n’ sniff and applied its longstanding childhood appeal to every imaginable accessory. From a medical perspective, there are many studies that show fragrances can positively influence mood and behavior. Who knows? Maybe that strawberry-scented necklace will do the trick to calm a feisty 5-year-old. Regardless, catch a whiff of next year’s more aromatic accessories from necklaces and bracelets to keychains and plush.

Yummy Gummy by American Jewel

Whiffer Sniffers

Pillow Pets

TIny Hands

Southeast

Offspring

Paul Daubney 404-577-6840

1385 Broadway Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018 212-279-4150 Mark Zelen

Northeast

Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999

West Coast

Texas / Southwest

TeresaStephen 213-623-8155

Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446

Caribbean, Latin America & South Florida

Mid Atlantic

Mark Wolbranksy 215-364-7906

Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-599-8717

Western Canada

Jeff Swartz 604-681-1719

Midwest

Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 847-607-8543

International

Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008

B NS CLU E R D L I E CH C IT Y RK N E W Y O - 20 18 S E PT. XPO

IDS E ABC K s Vegas

La 8 - 21 O CT. 1

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

Stacking the Odds OWARD KAHN, FOURTH generation owner of Kahn Lucas, never intended to get into the family business. He was a political science major at University of Pennsylvania and thought he would be in some form of information technology, a far cry from little girls’ frocks and dolls. That all changed 16 years ago, when Kahn’s dad—whom he refers to as his best friend—gave him the reins and challenged him to run the business. He accepted the task. The parent company to girls’, tween and teen brands Youngland, Sweet Heart Rose, Bloome de Jeune Fille, Emily West as well as Dollie & Me, a toy brand featuring 18-inch dolls and matching girls’ apparel sets, now has distribution in more than 3,000 stores. Years later, seeing major changes both in wholesale and retail, Kahn made the strategic decision to bring in executives atypical of old-line apparel companies, starting with chief executive officer Dor Sela whom he tapped in 2015. His hope was that bringing in Sela, with a background in global consumer marketing for

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P HOTO G RA PH Y BY T RE VE TT MCC AN D LI SS

Howard Kahn, executive chairman of the 127-year-old childrenswear-maker Kahn Lucas, on being nimble and predicting what will sell.

Mastercard and Procter & Gamble and others who didn’t necessarily hail from the childrenswear industry, would shake up the business model. The company also developed a consumer-centric data analysis platform it calls “Kahnalytics” that has been able to accurately forecast what trends will be bestsellers at retailers by region. That almost Amazon-like ability to predict sell-throughs is rare in the apparel business. Few companies, let alone a centuryold apparel company, invest in the technology and research abilities that is standard in any young tech firm. It led to a joke by Sela

that Kahn Lucas just may be the world’s oldest startup company. Earnshaw’s sat down with Kahn to discuss “Kahnalytics,” the difference it has made in business and the future of apparel manufacturing.

Macy’s, Kohl’s, Nordstrom or JC Penney, we will actually prequalify the collection with a varying set of consumers.

This is hard statistics versus a buyer’s instinct. How have retailers responded? Were they grateful or put-off ? It’s realHow did you get into the apparel business? I was born into it, ly intelligent research. We’ve come up with what we’re calling although when I was growing up, I had really no interest in it. No “weighted purchase intent.” We ask each consumer—those we interest at all. But I was always very close to it. We’re a 127-yearknow are going to shop dresses, for example—to rate on a 5-point old company. And I’m the fourth generation of owners. I was very scale how they view each style; what they’re most likely to purclose to my dad. Very, very close. I was a business person, and chase, down to the items they don’t like. Now that we’ve prewhen I went to college, I started studying information technology, screened, we’ve created this weighted purchase intent. Then we which in the early ’90s, late ’80s was really sit down with our retail customers ,and we evolving. Walmart was the leader, so I went share the data with them. Initially, I think to work for Walmart. My dad called me up the retailers looked at us like we had three CHAT ROOM one day. Business was very challenging. This heads, “What are you talking about? Just was probably in ’94. He said, “Business is get our mark-down money.” But I think tough. I’d love for you to come with me.” that over time, certain retailers in particWho would you invite out for a drink, dead or alive? I’m incredibly inspired by When your best friend asks you to come ular have really embraced us, and now I’d Steve Jobs. There are so many people in work with him, you say yes. So I did. Five say most of the majors are really embracbusiness that I’d love to learn from—Henry years later he said, “You know what? Just ing what we’re doing. We want to be the Ford. Abraham Lincoln would be on my list. give it a shot. See what you can do with the “smart” resource. company.” That’s when all the fun started. What books are on your nightstand? I’m reading a fascinating book right now called Do you work with online retailers as The Devil’s Chessboard by David Talbot. bbb well? I really enjoyed Steve Case’s book, The Yes, Amazon is an example. They’re the Third Wave. Alec Ross, The Industries of the What’s the first lesson you learned in most sophisticated company, and they Future. That was a great forward-thinking business? You know the expression, “It have algorithms written that if a prodbook. I read Nailed, Lenny Dykstra’s autobiography, which was my junkie read. takes 30 years to build a reputation, and uct is not turning at a certain rate, they 30 seconds to destroy it?” That’s one of will automatically start to drop the price What would people be surprised to the many lessons that my dad taught me. until the product turns to hit their interlearn about you? I play in a men’s lacrosse We always do the right thing, and if you ask nal metrics. By the upfront qualification league. There aren’t a lot of 47-year-olds anybody in the industry about our compawork that we’re doing, we add to that, and that should be playing full contact lacrosse, but I love it. I really do love it. ny, they will tell you we are highly ethical. it really improves the probability of our success on any floor or with e-commerce. You’ve developed something you call “Kahnalytics.” Can you explain what This sounds like you’ve raised the bar that is? It’s consumer analytics and for us, it has been a real gamefor manufacturers.We want the business decisions to be made changer for our company. I think when you look at all the compabased on consumer insights as opposed to historical data from a nies that touch consumers, 95 percent of companies say they’re year, or two years ago, and product development calendars. It’s customer-centric. When you look at the apparel market, I would really the new way that business has to be done. say less than 5 percent are consumer-centric. We’re focused on the Millennial. The consumer for us could be the mom, it could be the Has it made a big difference to your bottom line? Definitely. daughter, or it could be both. Kahnalytics has really allowed us to It’s made a bunch of significant differences to our business. First collaborate and co-create with the consumer. What we do is start and foremost, the point is to drive traffic to our retail customat the inception phase. Using our Kahnalytics, we reach out to a ers. We want to attract that girl. The only way to do it is by givspecific demographic that we’re looking to target and show them a ing consumers what they want or what they need. There is a 95 variety of trends that we’re considering. We’ll get immediate feedpercent correlation between the highest scoring items and what back, and we usually pull a minimum of a thousand responses, or actually performs at retail. Why that’s significant is that if somemore. We take that trend data, and then we sit down and work with thing scores very highly, we know that when we ship it, it will sell. our merchants and designers to create a collection based on the The dilution goes down, which means the consumers are happy, trends that resonate with the consumer. But it doesn’t stop there. retailers are happy because they don’t have to mark something Before we sit down with a major department store, whether it be down to zero, and we’re happy because they’re not coming back

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to us asking us for a significant percentage of the price they paid for the item. It’s a win across the board. What are some other challenges wholesalers have to contend with these days? I think all challenges really stem from getting the attention of the consumer. When a consumer wants what we’re designing and producing, business is great. We’re a function of the retailers’ performance as well. When they’re cutting stores, when they’re cutting open-to-buys, suppliers are affected. That has created a real challenge for us. We have a choice. We could either cut our overhead to the bone, try to be the lowestcost provider out there, or we can work toward being the smartest resource. Think differently, disrupt the market—this latter approach is what we’re taking. Speaking of retail contraction, Macy’s recently announced a plan to shutter 100 stores. What’s your reaction? There’s never been an environment more challenging than today. The emergence of e-commerce over the past 15 years has completely changed the market. When you look at retailers, there are three levels: There is price, assortment and experience. What’s

happened with the emergence of e-commerce is there’s so much transparency in the market that retailers, for the most part, have become so price-oriented that the markets have become commoditized. There has been very little innovation, particularly in the childrenswear market and the girls’ wear market. It’s just become about the cheapest price. And in a race to the bottom, nobody wins. That’s what’s happening right now. You know the expression, “Promotions win quarters, innovation wins decades?” That really opened up the door for us to look at the business in a completely different way because that’s the only way we’re going to win the market. How do you see the future of manufacturing in the industry? When you look at the manufacturing process, it has not changed in a hundred years. Garments are still being made the same way. Our company is very involved with an additive manufacturing laboratory at the School of Engineering at the University of Pennsylvania. I think things like additive manufacturing—it’s basically 3-D printing—is going to change the game. I think that may be the first really disruptive change in how apparel is being made. Typically, manufacturing today is called subtractive manufacturing because

you’re taking a bulk of fabric, you cut out all your pattern pieces and you’re left with all of the waste. With additive manufacturing, you’re only 3-D printing, you’re only manufacturing the materials that you need for whatever it is that you’re making. I think we’re still years away from apparel being 3-D printed, but it will happen. Has the evolution in sizing in childrenswear altered your business? Absolutely. You have 14-year-old girls who still have to shop in the 7 to 16 department. You’ve got 11-year-old girls who have to shop in the juniors department because they’ve grown and they’re developed. But the problem is the junior department is very different from the girls’ department. The product that’s in 7 to 16 is typically not as fashion-forward. It’s a little more classic. With some of the brands that we’re launching, we’re actually crossing the same product over from one size range to another. A girl isn’t going to walk into a store and say, “Hmm. I think I’m going to go to the traditional dress department” or, “I think I’m going to go to the tops department.” That’s not how they want to shop. Why did you acquire a doll company, and how is that business different from clothing? We acquired Madame Alexander four

years ago, and we have a brand called Dollie & Me where we make coordinating fashion for little girls and their dolls. Consumers started asking for it. The real reason we bought it was to have a unique position in the market. By buying a doll company and having girls’ fashion, we would be the only company out there that really bridges girls’ fashion with doll play, which would enable us to build our Dollie & Me business. We have $5,000 collectible dolls all the way down to play dolls. You’ve recently announced a collaboration with Hearst and Seventeen Magazine? Can you elaborate on that? The collaboration with Hearst is really exciting . It’s called The Edit by Seventeen. We’re working with the editors of Seventeen Magazine and they are identifying the hottest trends. They have incredible access to the world. Based on these trends, we’re coming out with a juniors capsule collection. We’ll launch directly to the consumer on our own e-commerce site and we’re going to be announcing a partnership with a major department store in the future. What do you love most about your job? I love the fact that I >39

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Looking Sharp PREDICTIONS FOR SPRING ’17 are proving prickly in the most literal sense. Kids’ fashions are hot, with designers taking inspiration from the Southwest—specifically from the cactus. Inspired by the Western influences spotted in adult collections like Kenzo and Dolce & Gabbana, kids are now lassoing this trend that emphasizes the desert’s most recognizable icon. From animated graphics to minimalist prints, this intriguing succulent gives off as much attitude as the kids wearing it. — Emily Beckman

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TREND WATCH

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Finn + Emma play gym

Bryony dress No Biggie bodysuit

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Jungle Boogie WELCOME TO THE jungle! Spring style is taking a safari, donning African-inspired prints to exotic beast graphics. “I think the resurgence comes from the utilitarian trend being reinterpreted for kids,” opines Nicole Yee, trend editor at Fashion Snoops. “For Spring ’17, we definitely saw a lot of new camouflage prints that work different jungle animals into the camouflage pattern.” Yee foresees a rise in utility items like cargo pants and shorts to work shirts and army-inspired jackets, adorned with flap pockets, belt details and patches. And although animals are a perennial favorite in childrenswear, there’s a notable increase in the amount of safari creatures stampeding across spring collections, from screen-printed rhinos to embroidered elephants. —E.B.

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Livie & Luca shoes

Minymo romper

Jumpâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;N Splash swimsuit

Bachha Essential one-piece

Hucklebones top and bloomers

Flap Happy hat

Charlie & Gus harem pants

Yikes Twins hooded towel

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Little Lids beret, Junior Gaultier dress, Limeapple sweatshirt, Puma socks, Young Soles shoes. 24

Little Lids beret, C&C California sweatshirt, Finger in the Nose dress, Lemon Loves LIme necklace. Opposite page, left to right: Little Lids beret, Kenzo sweatshirt, Hello Simone skirt, Finger in the Nose metallic skirt, C&C California socks, Florsheim shoes; Little Lids beret, C&C California sweatshirt, Finger in the Nose dress, Paul Smith skirt, Chapter 2 shoes.

Left to right: Little Lids beret, Appaman suit, Lili Gaufrette blouse, C&C California socks, Young Soles shoes; Little Lids beret, Appaman suit, Hudson sleeveless jean jacket, Chapter 2 shoes. 28

Little Lids beret, Andy & Evan red top, Lanoosh dress, Puma socks, Young Soles shoes. Opposite page: Little Lids beret, Son + Daughters sunglasses, Lemon Loves Lime top, Hudson shorts.

LIttle Lids beret, Watchitude watch, Hello Simone dress, Puma sweatshirt, C&C California socks, Chapter 2 shoes. Opposite page: LIttle Lids beret, Watchitude watch, Raspberry Plum top, Kenzo shirt. Production assistant: Heather McCoy. Digital capture: Imaginâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Paris.

UP CLOSE

Delicate Decadence Tutu du Monde’s old-world feel is a nod to times past in an era fueled by modernity.

S A LITTE girl, Andrea Rembeck, founder and creator of Tutu du Monde, dreamed of becoming a veterinarian. “I had permanent collections of bugs and, much to the despair of my mother, all sorts of insects in boxes in our house,” she says. A far cry from cobwebs and beehives, Rembeck would grow up to become a designer, focusing on womenswear collections instead. But after the birth of her daughter, Rembeck took time off to enjoy being a mom. She didn’t realize that decision would lead to yet another career direction—as well as the birth of a brand. When her daughter requested a tutu, Rembeck couldn’t find one that wasn’t mass-produced and polyester. “I decided there was a gap in the market for tutus made from natural materials, cottons and silks,” she recalls. “I embarked on a quest to find one, and that’s how Tutu du Monde was born.” Established in Australia in 2009, the brand now collaborates with the likes of J. Crew and is sold in about 70 stores in the U.S. Calling to mind “ethereal vintage French ballet costumers,” Rembeck affirms that her garments are made of the highest quality and are “hand-crafted by true artisans with an old-world feel.” Think sparkly sequins,

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feather wisps, dusty pastels and crystal beading on layers of tulle, silk organza and soft natural cotton—all replete with a “contemporary twist.” Sizes run from 1 to 11, with select styles also offered in infant and tween, wholesaling from $10 to $109. The Spring ’17 collection is inspired by deserts, Palm Springs, the heat “and that amazing light” and also features the brand’s first dive into swimwear. Expect palm prints, pastel animal prints and the signature soft color palette elevated by bright splashes of color. The brand is not just another princess line: sustainability is a prime focus. And, far from the pretty but frail delicate garments of yesteryear, Rembeck promises these heirlooms only get better with age and wear. “Slight fading and fraying edges add to their charm,” she attests. It is perhaps this nostalgia that keeps the brand alive. “On an emotional level, it’s almost like the moms—including me—are reliving or reimagining their childhood, with clothes they would have loved to wear had our brand been around,” explains Rembeck. “We’re hoping to create so much more than just a piece of clothing—memories of a moment in time, something that stays with the little girl and her mother, father or grandparent for years to come.”–Lauren Olsen

Born with It Global hit Aden + Anais makes a case for practical, simple designs that refuse to skimp on style.

HEN RAEGAN MOYA-JONES, co-founder and CEO at Aden + Anais, was pregnant with her first daughter, she was determined to pick up all of the right essentials for her new baby. “On that list was a big stack of muslin swaddles, something every Aussie mum has on hand,” recounts the Sydney native, now living in Brooklyn. “But here I was in New York City—a place where you can find anything— and I couldn’t find a single muslin swaddle anywhere.” Convinced that if American parents were introduced to the simple cotton muslin swaddle “they’d fall in love with it,” Moya-Jones launched Aden + Anais from her kitchen table in 2006. Luckily for Moya-Jones, she was right. The brand has since expanded to include everything from blankets, crib skirts and washcloth sets to clothing, toys, skin care, and “burpy bibs”—essentially, anything a burgeoning little one might need. Fittingly, the brand has sold a whopping 25 million swaddles in more than 65 countries and is sold in almost 2,000 specialty boutiques and retailers across the country and even has

formed a diffusion brand called Aden by Aden + Anais. The brand’s aesthetic is simple and stylish, and Moya-Jones upholds that her team only makes things she herself would put on her daughters or would want to have in her own home. “We have stayed authentic to ourselves and our plan has never wavered: We want to keep making beautiful, simple, quality products that make life easier for parents and caregivers,” she offers. As a result, the brand has been far ahead of its time—Moya-Jones affirms her team has designed it with parents’ tastes in mind since the very beginning. Recent collections have included “reimagined muslins” with fun prints and shimmery metallics and a collaboration with Disney Baby including characters from Bambi, The Jungle Book, and Winnie the Pooh. For Spring ’17, the team is launching another range under the Aden + Anais brand with a new aesthetic that will only be available in specialty boutique stores. Perhaps most impressive is what appears to be the brand’s dedication to practicality. As MoyaJones puts it: “[The brand] was really born of necessity, like all great ideas.” —L.O.

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NEW RESOURCES By appreciating other cultures, the world becomes smaller and designs become grander.

Kwadusa With a focus on sustainability, fair trade and Africa’s economic development, Kwadusa is a line of cool, urban clothes for active kids that goes beyond fashion alone. “We want to show that Africa is a diverse and creative continent that has much to offer,” says Vibeke Kjeldsholm, cofounder of Kwadusa, along with Anna Seeberg Braun. “Our ambition is to combine our passion for beautifully designed clothes of good quality with job creation, growth and trade.” The essence of the brand is a unique intersection of colorful African textiles with simple Danish designs. Kwadusa presents two yearly collections, produced under fair trade conditions in Kenya. The Danish founders carefully select only African-sourced materials, such as wax fabrics, shuka, batik and jersey. Debuted at Playtime Paris in July, the Spring ’17 collection “African Breeze” uses a small range of expressive textiles to create sporty outfits in handmade Kenyan batik, stunning jumpsuits of vivid Ghanaian wax fabrics and cool T-shirts with wild animal prints. “We want to make you feel the African breeze,” Kjeldsholm remarks. Sizes are available from 12 months to 10 years, with a small collection of organic baby T-shirts from size 6 months to 12 months. Wholesale prices range from $10 to $34. www.kwadusa.com

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Made-To-Be offers a new trend in kids’ shoes that reflects fun, creativity and, most of all, versatility. Owner Kim Reid reconnected with her old friend and fashion designer, John Sun, for expertise in sourcing and product development. The entrepreneurs brainstormed about how to bring Reid’s idea to market, and ultimately, through trial and error, they created a unique kids’ footwear brand dubbed Made-To-Be. What makes the collection so fun and unique? The footwear line offers a large assortment of interchangeable fashion accessories that customize each pair of shoes. The patented attachments allow the wearer to transition with ease between playtime and formal events. Made-To-Be products are nonseasonal and range from kids’ size 9 to juniors’ size 8. The wholesale price range is $22 to $24. www.made-to-be.com

Ar t & Eden is a new children’s apparel brand that strives to minimize its ecological footprint at every cost, from sustainable materials and low-impact dyes to recycled packaging and fair trade factories. “We push to be the change we wish to see in our production, process and culture,” explains Founder and CEO Susan Correa. Upon its debut at Children’s Club in August, Art & Eden presented a collection brimming with prints and patterns that highlight nature’s beauty. The Spring ’17 collection is available from sizes 3 months to 10 years, across colorful, eye-popping designs that give a nod to ocean life, mountain tops and everything in between. Spanning asymmetric skirts to breezy button-downs, the collection wholesales from $9 to $20. www.artandeden.com

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MATTEL, PARENT company of brands like Barbie and American Girl, has enlisted interior designer Jonathan Adler as the new creative director for Fisher-Price. In an effort to revamp its look, Fisher-Price launched into a three-year contract with Adler to help heighten the level of product design in both fashion and form. “Our collaboration with Jonathan Adler was born from a desire

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to contemporize our product design for today’s parents who want more sophisticated style options,” reports Mark Zeller, senior vice president of design. In fact, studies conducted by the company show that design is the No. 1 purchase motivator for moms. The new line contains bold patterns in mixed materials like wood, leather and textiles. Retail prices range from $80 to $200 for baby gear, $800 to $900 for furniture and $7 to $80 for apparel, bedding and accessories. The collection will be in stores next month and is available for presale now online at www. buybuybaby.com.

Team Spirit WEE ONES HAS teamed up with Divine Creations, an official collegiate licensee, to launch a line of exclusive girls’ hair accessories. The company will offer the same high quality bows and headbands that Wee Ones is known for, while incorporating designs with school logo patches and exclusive print ribbons. The collection has something for girls of all ages, from baby bows to no-slip hairbands. The partnership has already launched product for 16 universities and plans to add more schools soon. The full line of products is available now, with each item made-toorder and shipped in a two- to three-week period. The line will be sold to core Wee Ones’ customers—specialty, shoe and department stores—as well as other retailers that offer licensed collegiate merchandise. Wholesale prices range from $3 to $11. For more info, contact info@weeones.com. 34 West 33rd St. Ste 1213 NY, NY 10001 (212) 244-2323 www.kissykissyonline.com 38

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Introducing continued from page 19 come in every day, and we as a company can do whatever we want to do. We’re financially stable, and I love the ability to be creative in business. My partner in crime, CEO Dor Sela, came up with this great expression. He called us the world’s oldest startup, because we really are. It’s just a completely fresh approach to business. We play to win, and we want to be the best at what we do and feel really good about why we come to work every day. The more success we have, the more we can help with some of our philanthropic efforts, which are a very important part of our culture. It all makes us feel good. Everybody likes to be with a winner.

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While we’re talking about philanthropy, does a sense of corporate responsibility resonate with consumers? It’s very important. I think the thing that really resonates with Millennials and with kids today is that companies have a greater purpose. They need to serve a purpose other than just success in business. I think that’s, again, something that I learned from my dad, who was one of the founders of Kids In Distressed Situations (K.I.D.S.). I’m incredibly involved; I’m on the executive committee of K.I.D.S. We’ve donated a ton of prod— HOWARD KAHN uct to children in need, to girls in need around the world. I was also engaged with CARE. It’s the biggest global not-for-profit. We were working with mothers and children— in refugee camps on the border of the Ivory Coast in Liberia—when Ebola broke out. I think the industry as a whole needs to do a lot more. Even my 5-year-old daughter understands. It’s a very important part of our corporate culture and DNA.

For more information, please contact Allison Kastner || Marketing Manager 646-278-1510 || allison.kastner@9threads.com.

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Where do you want to take Kahn Lucas years from now? Where do we want to be? We want to be on the front edge, we want to be smart, we want to be agile with our business model, and we want to be responsible for growth. Do you expect the company will remain in the family? I have two daughters and a son. I really try not to look at this as a family business. I think that family businesses are wonderful, and I’m very fortunate that I was born into a family that has a business. But at the same time, I think that looking at a business in any way other than 100-percent objectively is dangerous, and I think that family businesses, while many succeed, can fail because they’re so concerned about succession and the next generation. •

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PARTING SHOT

The barely-there trend that influenced womenswear has now dipped its toe into children’s shoes. AKID’s Atticus style embraces this transparent look for Spring ‘17, featuring a clear TPU upper and full-grain leather padded ankle collar. The silhouette sits atop an EVA footbed for cushioning and comfort. Custom finishes include waxed laces with rust-proof metal hardware, while the durable rubber lug outsole adds traction for any surface. “We have created a shoe that shows style without compromising comfort,” reports AKID Brand Co-Founder Ashleigh Dempster. “Each collection is carefully crafted with kids in mind, and this particular Atticus is a clear example of just that.” The shoe wholesales for $50 with sizes ranging from 4C to 5Y. —Emily Beckman

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