Earnshaw's | September 2019

2019 $10.00

SIGNS OF SPRING FA D E D PA S T E L S , L AY E R E D L O O K S , ROOMY SILHOUET TES AND DASHES O F D E C A D E S PA S T

Digital Marketing Done Right Eyes on Eyelet Brand Building the Birkenstock Way

SEPTEMBER 2019 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor

FEATURE S

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

8 Moon Shot Mission On the heels of meteoric growth and expansion, David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, delves into why the brand has only just left the launch pad.

By Greg Dutter

EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor

16 Digital Marketing Dos and Don’ts Tips and strategies that deliver meaningful engagement with target customers.

By Emily Beckman

ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager

20 Sweet Shades Play it cool with a Spring ’20 assortment of washed-out hues on easy-breezy silhouettes.

By Mariah Walker

Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE Caroline Diaco VP/Group Publisher

DEPARTM EN TS

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

4 Editor’s Note 6 Scene & Heard 12 Moms Sounds Off 14 A Note To My Younger Self 15 Behind the Seams 18 Trend Watch 32 Designer Chat 34 What’s Selling 36 Final Cut

Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Agnes Alves Controller

PAGE 20

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018

On cover: Izzy wears Finger in the Nose coveralls with Rowdy Sprout T-shirt, Puma fanny pack and Joules slides.

Photography by Mark Andrew/The Garden Party; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; Hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/Utopia NYC using Oribe Hair Care and Milk Makeup; styling assistance by Khalila White.

9Threads One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244

Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 Advertising@9Threads.com EditorialRequests@ 9Threads.com

This page: Charis wears New Society hoodie worn over Tia Cibani tulle top, Hebe wide-leg pant, Dan De Fran sandals and insulated lunch box by Out of the Woods.

Circulation Office One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 Circulation@9Threads.com

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Wainscot Media, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Wainscot Media. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

2

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

children’s clothing 0-18 months

ATLANTA • CHICAGO • DALLAS • LOS ANGELES • NEW YORK • MONTREAL • TORONTO • VANCOUVER

MAYORAL USA INC. Miami FL T 305.779.4305 mayoral.usa@mayoral.com

EDITOR’S NOTE

New York State of Mind T’S 10:30 P.M. ON a Monday night, and I’m the fifteenth customer in line at a Fairway Market in Manhattan. Straining to hold my basket of pricey produce and quick dinner essentials in a razor-thin aisle, I reflect on my recent decision to move to the Big Apple. The rent is high, my Upper East Side apartment is micro-sized, the crowds are absurd, the dating scene is vicious, and let’s not forget about this “off-peak” grocery store line. The place is packed, like they’re giving food away, or maybe it’s a line for some underground nightclub I’m not aware of yet. All the while, flashbacks of wide, sparsely populated suburban supermarket aisles overflowing with bountiful goods dance through my mind. Yet I’ve never been happier about where I live. What is it about this city that’s got me hooked?

It doesn’t make sense on paper, and it goes against the plan.

Before my big move, I had been building a secure life in New Jersey—renting a spacious (and much more affordable) apartment, saving money, dating a guy I thought was “the one,” living within 20 minutes of my childhood home and commuting an hour by train to the city and back each day. It was a well-calculated existence that I’d been living for six years. It was designed to culminate in life’s next big stage. One by one, my friends were hitting that suburban trifecta: getting married, buying houses and having babies. But the more people bet on me being the next to fall in line, the less I could ignore my lifelong dream of living in New York.

My friends and family offered numerous reasons why my idea was crazy, but still the city beckoned. Diverse, dynamic and demanding, New York is both beauty and beast. To paraphrase Sinatra, “If you can make it here, you’ll make it anywhere.” I had to find out for myself.

The same can be said for many in the fashion and retail industries. New York is the ultimate proving ground, forcing companies to put their best foot forward or get sent packing. We Noo Yawkas are an unforgiving bunch, demanding and blunt when something isn’t up to snuff. At the same time, we’ll stand in line for hours when something is worthy of the wait.

Take the recently opened Hudson Yards, for example. For everyone who wrote off malls as white elephants, the new retail

mecca has injected life into the format in a grandiose, “only in New York” way. The 18-million-square-foot project combines office, residential and retail space. It’s been billed as a “mall of the future,” with fine dining options instead of an overabundance of similarlooking apparel stores, the biggest Equinox gym in the world and direct-to-consumer brands to lure Millennials. Mount Sinai Health System will even be opening a state-of-the-art clinical care center there. Crowds of tourists and locals have been flocking to Hudson Yards, proving that mall-style shopping is not out of fashion; it’s just tired, dingy malls anchored by dying department stores with little experiential entertainment that have lost their luster.

Next to take Manhattan is Nordstrom. The Seattle retailer’s Midtown flagship is set to open late next month. At seven floors and 320,000 square feet, it represents the largest single-project investment in the company’s history. It’s New York big, and the amenities and unique services are impressive. The ability to buy online 24/7 and pick up in store, three-hour same-day delivery, express return kiosks, personal stylists, tailoring and express alterations, free Wi-Fi and complimentary gift boxes are just a few examples. On the kids’ front, there’s nearly an entire floor dedicated to goods and apparel, including exclusive collections sold only at the new flagship, as well as stroller cleaning and tuneup services. The aim, says Beverly Mills, vice president and DMM for kidswear, is building a destination store in the context of “the world’s greatest stores.” I can’t wait to make it a regular stop for shopping—and dining at one of its six enticing options. Suffice to say, this is no Jersey mall food court. Best of all, it’s just a few subway stops from my apartment, or a jog through Central Park.

I’m now about halfway through the checkout line, my basket feels like I’m lugging an air conditioner, and I still have to schlep my provisions two blocks to my tiny apartment. No one said this would be easy. New York is no place for the weak. But I’m up for the challenge—just like the businesses I pass on my walk home, which include a diner, a hair salon, a coffee shop, a Thai restaurant, a vegan ice cream shop, a bar and a couple of dry cleaners. Like me, they know that if you can make it here, you’ll make it anywhere—and they want to be a part of it.

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

4

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

SC E N E & H E A R D

Young Soles Introduces Vegan Collection

RESPONDING TO A demand for more ethical options, Young Soles is launching its first vegan shoe collection. “Since our inception five years ago, we’ve been repeatedly asked if we could create the same beautiful shoes for families who are concerned with animal welfare and environmental issues,” says Louise Shill, founder and creative director. “It’s something that has been in our plans for a while, but we wanted to make sure we found just the right materials before proceeding.”

Debuting for Spring ’20, the brand took

its three most popular summer styles and recreated them with sustainble materials, using OnSteam lining and OnMicro material for the uppers. Fully recyclable with comparable durablity to its non-vegan counterparts, the new collection’s construction closely mimics the characteristics of natural cowhide and is 100-percent waterproof.

“Buyers love the robustness of the shoes and sandals, and the fact that they are machine-washable,” CEO Stu Anderson says, adding that the absorbent, hypoallergenic and antibacterial qualities of the OnSteam lining are other features customers will appreciate.

Looking toward Fall ’20, Young Soles plans to roll out more vegan options, including its most popular boot style, the Signey.

“We want to continue offering a wide range of footwear to suit many occasions and requirements,” Anderson says.“This is just the beginning of a new chapter for Young Soles.”

Tea is Rea dy for the Weekend—Are You? GLOBALLY INSPIRED Tea Collection is spicing up its selection with the debut of a wholesale-exclusive line, Weekend by Tea. Louis Senofonte, designer of the new assortment, says each look was created with a boutique’s window display in mind.

“The line was made to be emotional—to make you look twice,” Senofonte says.

“We’re taking a much more editorial approach, offering premium materials and detailing in limited runs.”

Putting a whimsical twist on classic Americana fashions, the Spring ’20 collection includes key pieces like a seersucker mini dress with a tonal sunset embroidered on the yolk, a yellow gingham shirt and shorts set for camp, and an ikat dress for girls with a coordinating outfit for boys.

Available in sizes 2 to 10, the suggested retail price range is $50 to $150.

“I would compare the design process

6

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

for Weekend to a dream journal,” Senofonte says, explaining the label’s freeflowing yet luxurious personality. “Weekend is meant to make the customer smile and give them something that feels ethereal.”

Unlike startups that might offer limited distribution, Tea Collection’s new line is backed by the resources of a multimillion-dollar brand, giving its partners the security of an established company (think on-time deliveries, for starters) with the elevated quality that comes from designing with a boutique shopper in mind.

“We just love working with boutiques and better retailers who are passionate about serving the needs of the families in their communities,” says Leigh Rawdon, founder and CEO. “We look forward to more retailers joining our family through this special label.”

Nordstrom’s NYC Flagship is Big Apple-Big NEXT MONTH NORDSTROM will open the doors to its flagship in midtown Manhattan’s bustling Columbus Circle. The retail mecca will have seven levels of shopping, totaling 320,000 square feet and nearly an entire floor dedicated to children’s goods and apparel.

“We hope to create an inclusive, welcoming environment where customers can explore and discover new and up-and-coming brands,” says Beverly Mills, vice president and DMM for kidswear, adding that inventory is purposely curated to offer wide-ranging price points.

Nordstrom’s experiential concept includes a broad mix of upscale labels and stateof-the-art services catered specifically for modern families. The kids’ shoe department, for example, features a futuristic conveyor belt that delivers sizes to customers, complete with a 3-D scan that measures feet. “We want to make parents lives easier and will offer Mini Boden x Harry Potter unique services like exclusive capsule collection in-store stroller cleaning and tune-ups,” Mills says. “We’ll also host in-store events with our baby gear brands to highlight and demonstrate new products and innovations.”

Adding to the destination appeal, several partnerships and products will be sold only at the New York flagship. Customers can expect an exclusive Harry Potter capsule collection with British label Mini Boden that features sparkly Patronus dresses and Quidditch-style rugby shirts. There will also be special collections from Nike, Vineyard Vines, Vans, Peek Aren’t You Curious, Rags and Monica + Andy, along with an exclusive car seat from Nuna. The grand opening will also feature trunk shows, customization events and a baby gear trend show. “We’re building our New York flagship store in the context of the world’s greatest stores and hope to create an experience that serves as a destination and is responsive to and reflective of New York customers,” Mills says.

Five Star Apparel 212-563-1233

Nominated for Company of the Year

Q&A Moon Shot Mission

On the heels of meteoric growth and expansion, David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, delves into why the brand has only just left the launch pad. By Greg Dutter TALK ABOUT YOUR late growth spurts…Birkenstock has been on a seven-year tear, fueled by double-digit gains that have enabled the 247-year-old brand to double in size in the past three years alone.

Numerous product introductions have transformed the company, once perceived as a "sandal" brand, into a year-round entity. (Some of its bestselling styles have been introduced in the past year.) Eye-popping collaborations with trendy boutiques and leading designers have generated gossip page–worthy buzz. The brand is no longer strictly the domain of granola types and older people with foot issues; a broad demographic of fashionistas and hipsters now embrace Birkenstock’s comfort-is-coolfor-everyone ethos. Two new flagships that opened this past year—in New York and Venice Beach, CA—now serve as showrooms for the entire collection and offer an immersive brand experience. A soon-tobe-launched skincare line will highlight Birkenstock’s transformation into a global lifestyle and wellness brand. Perhaps most impressive is the fact that the growth and expansion come in the face of tremendous industry headwinds. What’s more, in an effort to elevate its brand equity, Birkenstock dropped its top two volume brickand-mortar dealers at the start of this run and discontinued selling Amazon in 2017. The latter decision generated David-takes-on-Goliath headlines in the media mainstream.

You might think Birkenstock could set it on cruise control for a bit and let everyone get accustomed to its roomier, snazzier ride. But you’d be dead wrong. David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, says the brand is just getting started.

There’s no plan to let up in sight and plenty of room to grow and expand. It’s just how he and Birkenstock co-CEOs Markus Bensberg and Oliver Reichart are wired. A recent analogy Kahan used with a major department store buyer went like this: It’s halftime at the Super Bowl and the New England Patriots are up by three touchdowns. Instead of taking it easy in the second half, Tom Brady and company sprint onto the field and score a touchdown in the first five minutes of the third quarter. “That’s how Birkenstock is operating,” he says. “We obliterate mediocrity. We abhor cruise control.”

8

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

The full throttle approach, Kahan says, is only logical. It stems from a labor of love. “We bring a passion to the brand that we hope raises the energy of all we partner with by bringing products into the world that people love,” he says, citing its mission statement to sell products that bring people happiness and satisfaction. “Is there a limit to how much happiness and satisfaction you can bring?” Kahan believes the answer is no. There is no limit or, at least in the near term, Birkenstock will shoot for the moon.

In honor of this summer’s 50th anniversary of the lunar landing, Kahan has declared Birkenstock’s own “Moon Shot” initiative: to become a “global lifestyle and wellness brand.” He believes the talent is in place in the Americas, and the global leadership shares the vision to attain such lofty goals over the next few years. “I feel even more potential than I did three years ago,” he says, noting that 2020 will mark the eighth straight year of growth. “We have strong global leaders, a big vision and interaction across key functions, especially merchandising and product creation, where our Americas team is deeply integrated in the global process.” It’s all driven by an outside-the-box approach. “Nothing we do is business by the books; it’s not marketing 101,” Kahan says.

“Many times we’ve gone against the norms, but in ways that have been right for us and, in turn, right for our partners.”

Take distribution, for example. It’s a luxury brand model where brand equity is paramount and, if necessary, at the expense of volume. In the case of pulling the cork on Amazon, enormous volume potential. Yet Kahan says the decision was a no-brainer. “As steward of a brand with a 247-year history of quality, you have no choice but to ensure that brand equity is never compromised,” he says, noting the rule applies to any retailer. “Amazon just happens to be the most visible and, quite frankly, most blatant in their total disregard for brand equity.” For Kahan, there is no gray area, nor regrets. “What we did has been great for our brand,” he says.

“We’ve been able to ensure the lion’s share of our business is done in places other than the Amazon market, where the experience is far

inferior to our better-quality points of distribution, which only raises our brand equity even higher.”

The proof is in the numbers. Birkenstock’s growth continues despite eschewing the world’s largest retailer. And it’s not beholden to Amazon like many other brands that, Kahan estimates, are doing as much as 25 percent of their total volume through its platforms. “That’s dangerous.

It makes a brand highly transactional, and we’re not a transactional brand,” he says. “We’re an emotional brand.” It means that wherever a consumer interacts with Birkenstock—online, in stores or through its

SMALL TALK What are you reading? I just read

two books by The New York Times best-selling author and Pulitzer Prize winner Charles Duhigg: The Power of Habit and Smarter Faster Better: The Secrets of Being Productive in Life and Business.

We connected recently and have become friendly. The books share simple tools for living a more productive life and leading a more productive team. He explains complex subjects in layman’s terms, plus my parents would be impressed that I’m ‘friends’ with a Pulitzer Prize winner.

What was the last movie you saw? Once Upon a Time in

Hollywood. Tarantino at his best.

He captures the feel of Hollywood in the late ’60s and deftly illustrates how it represented the broader cultural shifts in society.

brand phenomenon versus a style trend.” The Holy Grail, he notes, has been introducing the feel of a Birkenstock sandal into closed-toe styles.

“Our closed-toe styles have been gaining traction and are now some of our best sellers,” he reports, adding, “Once consumers experience the incredible benefits of what Birkenstock brings to their lives, it’s relatively easy to transition into platforms, wedges, closed-toe shoes and, soon, natural skin care.” The attributes of cork, Kahan notes, go well beyond benefitting feet. “The skin care launch is very exciting,” he says. “The global beauty market is far bigger than footwear, and everyone who has tried it is raving about it. So imagine when our brand fans have access to this product.”

In short, Birkenstock’s transformation has been out of this world. It’s a meteoric ride and reaffirmation that, despite all that may be going wrong around you, focusing on doing what’s right for yourself can be the best strategy. The brand has embraced And there’s nothing ‘old’ about a youthful, can-do spirit and is living proof that age is merely what they do. a number. At nearly a quarter millennia young, Birkenstock is behaving like a wunderkind. “We have a mantra: We’re not in What is your greatest fear? That the footwear business; we’re in the show business,” Kahan says. society has moved towards a “The stars of the show happen to be shoes, but make no mistake, fear-based mentality rather than consumers demand entertainment. That is what is driving how one of hope and expectancy. we think about our business in whatever we bring to market.”

We’re far more polarized than ever before and fear begets more fear. I believe people have to carry the torch for acceptance and globalization based on mutual respect. That includes companies that embrace that philosophy, which can inspire others to do the same.

The next song you’ll listen to will be… Badlands. I listen to (the

Springsteen song) at least five times a week. Every time, it’s like the first time. It’s on my playlist for the morning drive to work, and it’s always a live version.

So Birkenstock is just getting started?

Yes. We’re just now creating the foundation for what will be a global lifestyle and wellness brand. It’s only been in the past 12 months that we’ve launched two owned stores in the U.S. that create a brand immersive experience. We took pains to ensure each store captures the dynamics of the respective area.

In our New York Soho location, where luxury retail is close by, we made sure the taste level is on a par. In Venice Beach, a true SoCal lifestyle destination, the store is more laid back with an open-air area and a cork surfboard as décor. Our creative team did a great job capturing the DNA of our brand and melding it with the DNA of the areas.

How are the new stores doing?

Both are already exceeding our best targets. We wanted to Which phrase do you most overuse?

Where is your moment of zen? I prove brick-and-mortal retail isn’t dead. What is dead is bad Really? Really? Really? just started surfing, and while retail. The world didn’t need another shoe store, and that’s not I’m a long way from being a real what we created. The brand is brought to life in two of the most Who is inspiring you now? The surfer, just bobbing in the waves, dynamic and eclectic retail environments, and it’s incredible to Rolling Stones! The best straightwaiting for the right moment, is on rock ‘n’ roll band of all time, see people’s reaction. In both locations, non-sandals are almost a total zen experience. It’s lifeand they’re blowing people away changing even after the first few 50 percent of the business. As I said, great retail is what people every night on tour—in their 70s! times. need. Unlike many comfort stores that have a large number of cookie-cutter mall locations where their most visible communications piece is a 30 percent-off sign, our stores are very DTC channel—the brand story must be consistent, clear and uncomdifferent. It’s a brand experienWce. Doesn’t that also say something promised. It requires supreme diligence. “Distribution is becoming about how we can develop the brand with our retail partners as well? murky with global challenges, and the more desirable a brand gets, the more it encourages bad behavior,” Kahan says. He likens brand manageSpecifically, how is the kids’ segment performing? ment today to requiring martial arts skills in order to fight through all Our kids' business is thriving. We distribute mainly with full-service, sitthe distractions and temptations. But it’s a fight Kahan is eager to lead. and-fit retailers, and our high quality appeals to parents who value the “I’ll be the Bruce Lee of the industry in how we manage and protect orthopedic benefits of our products. The business has grown tremendously our brand,” he says. over the last few years. The only ‘govenor' on the growth is, quite frankly, Of course, disciplined distribution amounts to only so much if the there are relatively few high-quality retail points of distribution for kids’ shoes are lackluster. Kahan cites Birkenstock’s continuous product shoes versus adults. That aside, Gen Z is an extremely important focus innovation as the key to driving the sustained demand. “Six years ago, we for Birkenstock. This is the next generation of ‘brand fans.’ Once you never allowed our business to become a one-item phenomenon,” he says. wear Birkenstocks you become hooked, and gaining a new consumer at “Instead, we managed our brand across many silhouettes and created a a young age gives us a lifetime fan—and them a lifetime of healthy feet.

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

9

Q&A Amid the retail chaos and consolidation, are survivors upping their game?

I like to think so. However, some who play to survive may or may not, while those who play to thrive will. It’s about better consumer engagement.

How are you communicating with your customer base via social media and in-store experiences? I believe traditional, full-service independent retail can thrive. But we advise many to shift their focus to experience and conversion. Carry brands that create consumer demand, service the heck out of your clients and be involved in the local community.

Become the first choice for local shoppers.

What might the typical shoe store look like in five years?

I don’t think there is a typical shoe store. I believe there’s a place for fullservice independents; family self-service chains that carry great brands and are easy to shop; specialty athletic dealers; trend/fashion boutiques; great department stores where the consumer can accessorize footwear with ready-to-wear; and DTC and flagship stores. Whichever of those formats, the key is to make your brick-and-mortar stores mirror the emotional experience on your digital site. Easier said than done, but that’s the objective. Our digital business is barely 24 months into its newest iteration, and we’re just now beginning to create great content and engage our brand fans.

How might Birkenstock be better positioned in this new retail order going forward?

Ultimately, I believe great brands will find the balance between DTC interaction and the best partners in those aforementioned channels. It requires long-term vision, innovation with regards to product and true discipline. It also comes from challenging yourself to be ahead of the curve and mandating that you choose partners who share your vision and do everything in your power to make it work. For example, while it’s not the sexy part of the business, I know our retail partners are happy that our logistic capabilities have come a long way, and we now better service their needs. We now import 20 times the units we did seven years ago. Our global supply chain, sales and production planning have been a major focus so we can better capture the demand we create.

How’s business this year?

It’s been strong. No surprises, but I’m encouraged by the success of new sandal silhouettes, like the Yao, which has been fantastic at retail, as well as our new shoes, clogs and wedges. The Buckley, a mock toe clog, sold out almost immediately after being introduced this summer. In kids’, our classic silhouettes have been driving the majority of our business, but we’ve also experienced rapid growth in fashion looks. The mommy and me trend, for example, applies a great deal to our product range, and the fun material stories and details sell out fast. However, the industry overall isn’t doing great, and I’m not super-positive about the U.S. economy. I believe people are becoming more fearful and retail in general is suffering. The tariff war, the country’s political divide, mass shootings...none of it helps. While we’re far outpacing the industry, it

Whoa! We are so excited to be nominated for Best Swimwear!

Thank you for all of your support!

Now Booking Spring 2020 Atlanta Janet Hunter Hawkins Group

shadecritters.com

UPF 50+ Swimwear for the Whole Family.

Dallas Klein Group

Los Angeles Dressing Room

NYC The Showroom

772-448-7848

would be better if retail traffic and overall spending increased. We need our retailers to be healthy, and this environment isn’t helping.

rule applies to a great restaurant: the minute it starts serving smaller portions or cuts back on the Bolognese sauce...you don’t come back.

What are your main goals for the rest of this year?

The balance of this year will be focused on operational and logistics upgrades so we can support the sales growth across the Western Hemisphere. In addition to our Novato, CA, headquarters, which I call mission control, we now have a New York office with our commercial, digital and data analytics teams. We also have an office in Montreal to manage Canada and one in Brazil where we do our own retail as well as manage distribution across Latin America and Mexico. We’re growing up as a company and making sure the talent and structure exists to support our Moon Shot initiative.

Birkenstock is giving the people what they want—and then some.

The message is simple: never compromise consumers. We never compromise our brand quality or integrity. We never compromise the respect we have for the people who wear our products and the amazing health benefits they receive by way of our footbeds. We embrace them and think about where we want to take them next. When you have loyal fans like we do, it’s inherent upon us to take them to places they may not even know they want to go. It’s like how The Beatles took their fans from three-minute pop songs to the psychedelic sounds on Sgt. Pepper.

Great bands and brands take their consumers to new and exciting places.

What gives you the confidence to shoot for the moon despite the industry headwinds you’ve cited?

A lot of people ask how long this Birkenstock thing will last, which drives me crazy! People in the industry have been trained to think it must have a limit. The minute something gets hot it becomes, ‘How fast can we exploit this before it ends.’ We never use the words trend or hot. It’s just plain wrong. Brands end because of this type of thinking. It ends because, somewhere along the way, they compromised the end user. Why do TV shows ‘jump the shark’? Because they lose the creative spark. They dial it in and then lose viewers. The Sopranos was just the opposite. The series received higher ratings each year because the writers and actors never compromised. They got better and knew if they took their fans along for the ride, they would follow. The same

How do collaborations fit into this formula?

We’ve taken collaborations to a higher level. Our Rick Owens collab was a huge success. We didn’t just do ‘brand x brand.’ Instead, we partnered with a designer who fully understood and appreciates the uniqueness of Birkenstock, rather than just slapping a logo on one of our styles. He brought his unique taste level and aesthetic to our designs. They sold out immediately. But instead of resting on that, this year we took the concept to a level never before seen. One of our long-time brand fans and Oscar winning actress, Frances McDormand, premiered our collab with Valentino by wearing it on stage at the Academy Awards to accessorize her Valentino gown. It generated headlines around the world and, 24 hours later, the shoes were sold out in Valentino boutiques and on our website. Not even the athletic brands, who created the launch/drop >35

MOMS SOUND OFF

Party Planning MOMS SHARE WHAT, WHEN AND HOW THEY BUY FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS. JESSICA JAEGER, stylist, Boston.

KATHY NUÑEZ , registered nurse, Peabody, MA. Daughter: Kyrie, 9

Son: Myles, 5; Daughter: Zoe, 7.

months; Son: Makaio, age 11.

How often do you shop for dressy apparel? I’m always on the hunt for special occasion pieces. I tend to buy ahead if it’s the right piece at the right price.

Where do you go for dresswear purchases? We find that Macy’s has been a reliable stop for both kids’ formal wear. But it’s even better when we can find our favorite brands heavily discounted at T.J. Maxx or Marshalls. I hate paying full price when the kids outgrow their clothes so fast.

Do you purchase more online or in stores? I mostly shop online because I love the deals and hunting for pieces that fit my vision of what I want my kids to wear. I do shop in person occasionally, especially after a growth spurt when I need confirmation on what size to purchase.

This is particularly the case when it comes to shoes.

Any go-to brands? For my baby girl, I love Pippa & Julie. It reels me in with that Disney collaboration. For my son, I look to Calvin Klein or Ralph Lauren for suits. And for an occasion when he’s not wearing a full suit, The Children’s Place and H&M are my picks for a nice shirt and pants.

What are your favorite brands?

I love Egg New York because the clothes are fun, colorful and stylish.

The fabrics are so soft and comfy, and I can remove those inevitable stains easily. My son had this one Egg hoodie with white stripes that just attracted the worst stains, but I could always get them out! For my daughter, I typically buy dresses from Egg, Art & Eden, Petit Peony and Crewcuts. For my son, we love DL 1961 jeans, Chaser tees, Egg and Crewcuts.

What would improve your dresswear shopping experience? It really helps when retailers categorize items into different occasions or themes. For example, when I shop women’s dresses, they are separated into wedding, night out, day dresses, etc. I think that’s super helpful! It saves me time and offers relevant suggestions on what best fits the specific occasion I’m shopping for.

Do you have a go-to party accessory? I love putting my son in a fun bow tie to add a pop of color. I also love to put him in fun shoes for a unique touch. Honestly, boys outfits can be a little dull, so accessories really help. I recently bought him Pop Shoes with light-up soles, which are so fun. For my daughter, we do festive jewelry, sparkly shoes and maybe a little purse. I particularly love the fun-shaped ones from Crewcuts.

What dresswear trends are you loving of late? I love to coordinate my kids, especially for holidays where I know I’ll be taking lots of photos.

I often add festive details, like bunny shoes for Easter. To find looks they both love but also coordinate, I always start with my daughter’s dress. Then I find an outfit he’ll wear in a coordinating color scheme.

For example, last Christmas he wore a button-down vest, bow tie and skinny pants.

12

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

How important are accessories? I always buy ties for my boy. It just pulls a nice suit together. I can’t accessorize my baby girl too much because she ends up ripping it all off. I’ll usually just give her a hair clip or headband from my own stash.

ALEXANDRA ATACH, photographer

and blogger, San Fransciso.

Daughter: Noyemi Pia, 8.

Do you shop frequently for fancy clothes? Yes, we buy for a variety of spe-cial events. For simple occasions, like a friend’s birthday party, I prefer more casual looks for my daughter.

However, for Christmas, New Year’s Eve, weddings and other big celebrations, we go all out!

What brands offer that “all out” look? Bleu Comme Gris, Sorci and Fofa, Melis Kaptanoglu Kids, Victoria Atelier, Apocalypto Kids, Ralph Lauren and Monnalisa Chic. I’m always looking for the highest quality and interesting designs.

CARLA GARCIA, social worker, Milltown, NJ. Sons:

Where do you shop? It’s a combination of in stores and online. If a brand has a shop, I love to go visit. I adore unique clothes, but many of the small independent brands aren’t in stores, so online purchases have become a big part of my shopping experience.

What’s your daughter’s favorite party accessory? She loves fun headbands and hats!

What dresswear trends of late are you most excited about? I love to mix casual and dressy outfits to create that ‘modern princess’ look. I generally lean toward editorial styling, but it ultimately depends on the occasion. For instance, each Christmas we have a tradition of buying a classic dress from Ralph Lauren.

Miles, age 1; Henry, 3.

pants that are lined, even in the winter. My boys run hot, so I tend to avoid that extra layer.

How often do you buy dressy outfits? It’s not often that I dress the boys up for a special occasion. Their birthdays are in November, so I usually plan their birthday picture outfit as something they can also wear for Christmas. When they get a bit older and can tolerate more formal wear, then I’ll take full advantage of dressing them up more often!

How could a retailer improve your dresswear shopping experience? Maybe serve wine?!?! If I have to bring the boys with me to try clothes on, then I need the AC pumping and a drink after! They are often more interested in everything else going on than whether or not the pair of pants is comfortable. Honestly, I tend to shop without them, and then try items on at home.

Where do you shop? For special occasion wear, I typically head to Bloomingdale’s or Janie and Jack. My husband is from North Jersey and introduced me to the small boutique shop in North Bergan, NJ. They have a ton of dressier clothes for boys so if I can not find something after looking locally, I will head there.

What’s your sweet spot when it comes to pricing? Up to $100 for a jacket and up to $50 for a shirt or pants. If I am buying something for Henry, our older son, I will spend a bit more as Miles will probably get use out of the item, as well. He is two years and one day younger than Henry.

How often do your boys wear accessories? The boys actually have a collection of ties and hats. My older son will even ask to wear a bow tie! Both boys will ask for hats now and gladly wear a newsboy hat (dark chambray is my favorite) or a fedora. It really is a balance between having them look dapper but still age-appropriate. They have plenty of time to grow up, and I do not want to rush that with their clothing! I also love cardigans for my older son. If I can pair a cardigan with a shirt and bow tie, then I will tend toward that over a jacket.

Any deal breakers when it comes to special occasion outfits? If something has to be dry cleaned! I am ok with ironing (actually my husband is), but if it’s a fussy fabric then forget it! I also do not like

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

13

A N O T E T O M Y YOU N G E R S E L F

Love Story TRISH MORENO, CEO OF LITTLE GIRAFFE, ON FACING THE CHALLENGES THAT COME WITH FOLLOWING YOUR HEART. DEAR TRISH, It’s late 1996, and change is heading your way.

You are considering leaving a job you thought was your dream job and leaving a city you thought was your dream city. What you don’t know is you’re about to experience the greatest love story you could have ever imagined.

For the past couple of years, you felt a calling to have a baby yet have been unsuccessful at getting pregnant. Your work is no longer feeding your soul, and even though you love your team and your brand, you are nagged by the feeling this chapter is coming to a close. In a moment of clarity, you decide to move on after 11 years in your beloved role as Bebe’s executive vice president in San Francisco and head to Los Angeles. Without a solid plan, you’re at once terrified and wildly certain of this decision. You’re about to hop in your car, put the top down and howl with joy as you drive off into the next phase of your life.

A few short months later, you’ll hover over a pregnancy test for 30 minutes until you see the two bars materialize.

You’ve done it! Life is about to change forever. You embrace pregnancy for all of its highs and lows. And when the time comes to bring this baby into the world, I warn you it won’t be easy. But it’ll be well worth it because that baby girl is the biggest accomplishment of your life. You’ll name her Ruby, and she will be born on a Tuesday. The doctor will sing The Rolling Stones “Ruby Tuesday” as he delivers her.

After about 18 months of sleep deprivation coupled with pure bliss, you’ll enroll Ruby in preschool and be amazed at the experience of getting your hands back. They won’t be idle for long! You’ll launch Trendsyndicate, a consulting firm that will specialize in branding and marketing for the fashion and lifestyle industries. Hitting

14

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

the ground running, you’ll work with multiple clients that include Bisou Bisou, California Market Center and Identity Craft Furniture Showrooms.

You’ll even return to consult on projects for Bebe!

But later, the recession of 2008 will hit. Your clients will be reeling, and you’ll have to regroup. Once you declare your readiness to trade your consulting firm for a full-time role, a new job will come to you almost instantly. In 2009, as Ruby is approaching her teen years, the opportunity comes along to run Little Giraffe. You’ll recognize before even accepting the role of CEO that the brand is about love, and its mission will be to welcome newborns into the world. You’ ll propose the tagline “Little Giraffe is LOVE” and begin one of the most rewarding missions of your life.

Drawing from your experience as a mom, you’ll approach product design and branding from your heart. You’ll have renewed energy, working harder each day to accomplish your goals. As you assemble an amazing team, you’ll grow the brand into a leader in the baby and gift industries. Little Giraffe will expand into multiple doors across the country and flourish as a favorite among consumers and influencers. The company will win several awards for design and will even be named Company of the Year by Earnshaw’s! Remember to embrace every moment and focus on the importance of balancing work with family.

Every challenge, hardship and uncertain moment leads you to where you are and what you’ll become. That said, you may have to exercise some patience and please don’t overthink everything. Eventually, you’ll learn to trust that everything happens for a reason. Ruby will learn this, too. As you look back, you’ll see this love story is your happily ever after.

BEHIND THE SEAMS

We’ve been nominated!

BEST SLEEPWEAR 2019 Rain or Shine Jan & Jul prepares kids for every forecast—in style.

RAISED IN A cotton farming region of rural China, Florence Luo put her homegrown passion for sewing and knitting aside when she moved to the U.S. to pursue a career in engineering. But in 1996, when her second daughter was born, Luo’s urge to design struck again. Inspired by her kids love for the outdoors, Luo created what would be the first of many adjustable, patterned sun hats to keep them safe from harmful rays. But it wasn’t until 10 years later, with her family settled in Vancouver, Luo decided to transform her at-home passion project into a full-time business, Twinklebelle Designs.

“I was still teaching engineering at the local university, but I wanted to switch gears to spend more time with the girls,” Luo says. “It was the perfect opportunity to finally grow my hobby into a business.”

Luo’s entrepreneurial endeavour proved successful, selling her signature sun hats through Twinklebelle’s website as well as through specialty boutiques. “I believe in encouraging outdoor play as much as possible,” Luo says of her stylish, secure and sun-safe mission.

“It’s so important to have the right gear, and I feel honored to actively contribute apparel and accessories to other outdoorsy families like my own.”

Four years ago, Luo expanded that outdoorsy offering into a new brand, Jan & Jul, consisting of a wide range of weather-resistant outdoor gear including rain jackets, rain pants, fleece-lined winter coats and, beginning next spring, shoes. All Jan & Jul garments are waterproof, wind repellant and soil-repellant as well as PVC- and fluoride-free. “It took me two years to figure out all the waterproofing technologies out there,” Luo says.

“It was my goal to create something practical and aesthetically pleasing that matched Twinklebelle’s style—and finally we nailed it!”

Designed to grow with the child, Jan & Jul styles feature adjustable hoods and waistbands as well as elastic on the sleeves and ankles. The summer UV-protective styles also bear in mind longer wear with matching top and bottom sets instead of one-pieces. As for the extension into shoes, Luo says the decision comes on the heels of great feedback to its 3-D knit shoe it tested last season. Available for first-walkers through size 13 in seven different colors, the suggested retail price for each style will be $25. “We want to take the next step and make shoes kids can wear the whole day that are breathable, water-resistant and easily taken on and off,” Luo says “It’s been an incredible journey so far, and I can’t wait to broaden our reach even more!” —Aleda Johnson

#LiveSoftly #SleepSoundly #KicKeePants @kickeepants kickeepants.com

Tips and strategies that deliver meaningful engagement with target customers. By Emily Beckman

I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y N A N C Y C A M P B E L L

Digital Marketing

16

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

Dos and Don’ts 1 . C RE ATE A CO N TENT C AL E NDAR Posting without a plan only leads to unpredictable results and subsequent frustration. Instead, try a carefully curated content calendar to ensure your social media presence has a consistent and intentional voice. Scheduling tools like Buffer or Hootsuite are great ways to plan content weeks ahead that will later go live at times of peak traffic. It also negates the hassle of having to scramble to make a post. u Bonus Tip: Invest in photography. If you’re a brand, retail partners will appreciate the convenience of high-quality visual assets to use on their social media channels. Not to mention, your collection will always be looking its best!

2. P UT YOU R B USI N E SS O N THE MAP Did you know approximately 53 percent of consumers visit a business within 48 hours of performing a local search on Google? That being so, it is in every store owner’s best interest to stay proactive about how your business appears in online directories like Yelp and Google Maps. Upload a variety of images including exterior, interior, select merchandise and staff that will showcase your business in a quick, inviting glance.

3 . KNOW YOU R T R IB E If you aren’t thoroughly informed about your target audience, any type of marketing is bound to generate disappointing results. So really ask yourself: Who is my customer? Where do they hang out online? Who are they already following? What groups are they a part of? What are their interests, passions, hobbies, etc. In today’s world, consumers leave a digital cache rich in information that’s there to be mined—for free. Once you have well-researched answers to these kinds of questions, you can start implementing digital strategies that zero in on and interact with your target consumer.

4. LESS IS MO RE Stop wasting time trying to master every nuance of every social media channel. It’s time-consuming, exasperating and likely ineffective. Instead focus on the ones that your customers interact with most. And don’t assume that’s Instagram because it’s popular of late. Older consumers—ones raised on Facebook—tend to still congregate there. For younger consumers, new social media platforms are their milieu. Research online analytics to find out the top two or three channels your target customer prefers and learn their respective nuances inside and out. The more familiar you are with the platform, the fewer mistakes you’ll make and the faster the conversion rate.

5. MAK E IT SEAMLESS Why don’t retailers just hand each customer that walks in a brochure packed with information? Because that’s not as effective as an employee greeting them, assisting them and recommending products for their specific needs. This concept applied to your website is what digital marketers call a “sales funnel,” the key to guiding and converting browsers into purchasers. With websites across all industries having a bounce rate of more than 50 percent, it’s critical that your site is easy to navigate with a direct call to action—be it a specific sale, an event, a new product, etc. Making a sale is the top priority, but equally important is capturing visitor emails with the least fuss possible. u Bonus Tip: To further guide customers, consider adding a chatbot feature to your website. Facebook Messenger bots have an 80 percent open rate in comparison to email at only 20 percent. Try using ManyChat to create a Facebook Messenger bot that can greet a visitor, inform them about upcoming sales and show a gallery of new product.

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

17

TREND WATCH

Mayoral dress

Le Big skirt

T-Love top Tuc Tuc dress

Mia New York romper

Halabaloo frock

Dainty Girl Accessories sunglasses

18

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

Eye Candy

J.O. Milano dress

SWEET, WHIMSICAL AND traditionally white eyelet fabric is expanding its palette for Spring ’20 from fancy frocks in cheerful pastels to edgier cuts in more sophisticated shades of bold brights and even basic black. Accessories are joining the movement as well with eyeletinspired details on hats, headbands, hair bows, shoes and sunglasses. —Emily Beckman

Paz Rodríguez bubble

Sperry sneaker

Patachou dress

Beet World

Special Day blouse

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

19

Charis wears Noon by Noor dress, Smocked Polka Dot striped shorts, socks by Fun Socks, Steve Madden metallic sneakers and Toucca Kids sunglasses.

21

22

Charis wears hoodie by The New Society, white top by Tia Cibani and Hebe pants.

Opposite: Charis wears dress and floral pants

by Mabel + Honey with Geox sandals.

24

Laniya wears Chandamama blouse, Bonmot shorts, socks by Fun Socks and Joules sandals. Opposite: Laniya wears Lazypants tie-dye hoodie with Mayoral sweater and pleated shorts.

25

Izzy wears pink overalls by Isobella & Chloe and Dan De Fran shoes; Laniya wears striped overalls by Ketiketa and Emu Australia shoes.

26

Izzy wears iridescent jacket

by American Jewel, graphic tee by Anchors-n-Asteroids, pants by Tia Ciabani, Fun Socks socks and Steve Madden sneakers. Opposite: Charis wears Misha and Puff knit dress and holds sunglasses

by Toucca Kids.

28

29

30

Laniya wears matching fringe top and shorts

by Yellowpelota and blue tee by Kidential.

Opposite: Laniya wears windbreaker by Puma, top by Cosmosophie, Unlabel wide-leg pants, Geox sandals and holds Toucca Kids sunglasses.

Hair and makeup by Clelia Bergonzoli/Utopia NYC using Oribe Hair Care and Milk Makeup; styling assistance by Khalila White.

31

DESIGNER CHAT to keep me motivated and inspired day after day, no matter what.

What’s new for Spring ’20? Our spring collection contains 14 hand-woven textiles, each from raw fiber to fabric. I wanted to express color, quality and uniqueness by mixing old with new. I felt drawn to pops of color that could be applied to modern silhouettes, like jean jackets and culottes. We naturally implemented several famous Guatemalan elements, too—color, jaspe, weaving—and then modernized it. Overall, Sticks is known for revitalizing Mayan designs that are thousands of years old.

Some designs were even on the verge of being lost forever! Each fabric is made by hand, using only sticks, thus our name.

A M A N DA DA U M

FOR NEARLY FIVE years, Texas native Amanda Daum has called Guatemala home and the artisans of its remote villages her family. Fusing a philanthropic spirit with her lifelong desire of becoming a designer, she got her startup dreams off the drawing board after winning the 2018 “Chipstarter” competition, supported by Chip and Joanna Gaines, the stars of HGTV’s “Fixer Upper.”

“Standing next to Chip Gaines as he passed me a check for $40,000 was when I truly realized the hard work I had been putting into Sticks and how much it meant to me,” Daum says. “I’m so grateful to have been chosen and continue to change the lives of so many deserving women who work with me.”

Leading up to the launch of Sticks, Daum had traveled the world and became deeply inspired by the textiles she saw in far off places, like China and Laos. She volunteered in Uganda and interned at EDUN, a company known for promoting trade with Africa. She even spent time working fashion shows for Chanel and briefly dabbled with her own jewelry label, RAE. “My path to becoming a clothing designer has been winding, thrilling and challenging, but most of all, rewarding,” Daum says, adding that she ultimately ended up in Guatemala where she

32

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

discovered the most amazing textiles she’d ever seen. “I was immediately compelled to provide jobs for these insanely talented female artisans.” Over the years, Daum has witnessed major milestones in her weavers’ lives, from getting married to having children. “They’re my family,” she says, noting that she collaborates with them daily. “Our designs have texture, spirit and an intrinsic connection to the person whose soul and story was poured into the making of each garment. It’s like nothing you’ve seen anywhere else.”

Of late, Sticks has invested deeper into Guatemalan textiles and is working on plans to ramp up production. “I hope to revolutionize the handmade clothing niche by building my own production facility in Guatemala,” Daum says. Her goal is to one day employ hundreds, if not thousands. Another goal: to shift the consumer appetite toward handmade products over environmentally harmful, mass-produced clothing. “Humbleness is in everything we do,” Daum says. “I can’t think of a more rewarding way to have fulfilled my dream of becoming a designer.” —Emily Beckman What was it like moving from Dallas to Guatemala? It certainly was a culture shock!

However, the ‘Guatemala crazy’ is my new normal now. I’ve grown to love the country and its people. But it took some adjusting, for sure. I was very sick for the first few years. We call it the ‘Guat bug’ because there are so many parasites here. I even caught the Dengue virus!

But leave it to the endless beauty of this country

What specifically inspires you about Guatemala? The textiles I see women wearing just from glancing out the window of a bus are beautiful. Outside of the textiles themselves, I draw inspiration from the colorful fruit markets and tropical gardens. I also love the smell of fresh coffee and the sound of birds chirping me awake in the mornings. Every inch of Guatemala brings me into a creative space. It incubates me as my best self. Guatemalans are brilliantly creative.

It’s a huge part of the indigenous culture, and I feel so grateful to be a part that.

In addition to parasites and a virus, what are some of the other challenges you’ve had to overcome in launching Sticks? Figuring out how to produce and scale handmade textiles in Guatemala has been insane! I really had a moment of doubt there. But truth be told, I’ve hardly scratched the surface of what is possible in Guatemala. Realizing this, I’ve been working harder and taking more risks. We started traveling so far out, to the border of Mexico, hundreds of miles from our home to find new artisans. I’ll never forget the time I followed a man I’d just met at a market through the woods in his tiny village to visit a community of weavers. I didn’t know if I’d really find weavers there, but I’m here to tell the tale. It’s the incredible effort of my team that makes Sticks so special—building textiles that are so unique with people who are also so special.

What do you love most about being a designer?

Imagine a village of women dressed head to toe in beautiful colors. Their homes are abundant with love and enthusiasm for life. Everyday it’s, ‘Gracias a Dios por este dia,’ which translates to, ‘Thank you God for this day.’ Design can have an incredible impact, and we want more people to realize that with the story of Sticks.

BE THE BUYER

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

Laws of Attraction Bianca Morales, part-time attorney, mother of three and owner of Dreams of Cuteness, on mutually beneficial relationships, responsible manufacturing and the everevolving landscape of online buying.

There are consequences to oversaturating the market. I want to work with brands that respect my business as much as I respect theirs. I avoid brands that dump stock on deeply discounted sites like Gilt. This method makes the label less exclusive and consequently devalues it. My business only goes to those with a strong brand identity and desire to build long-lasting relationships.

R-E-S-P-E-C-T

Brands that are conscious of sustainability and labor issues are much more appealing to me. For example, I love buying Mini Rodini because, instead of discarding textiles, it recycles ocean waste to create its swimwear and avoids harmful chemicals during production. I buy from brands like that to make me feel like I’m part of a solution—not more of the problem.

GREEN & GOOD

No one knows your store’s aesthetic better than you. Any pieces I’ve bought on someone else’s advice just didn’t perform the same way as when I make the selection.

Choose wisely, but don’t second guess yourself. And if you make a mistake, don’t worry! A mistake can be the best way to inform a later buy.

TRUST YOUR GUT

As an online retailer, a brand’s photos are everything. If a garment doesn’t look as beautiful photographed as it does in person, it will not sell on my site. I buy very differently than I would if I owned a brick-and-mortar store. That being said, I believe online is the future. So the quality of digital assets brands provide to their retailers is only going to grow in importance as the popularity for online shopping increases.

BEAUTY SHOTS

Writing orders in person is fading. Brands are increasingly participating in online trade shows and using online ordering systems like Joor, NuOrder and Brandboom.

This will become even more common, and more brands will begin to develop their own in-house version of these online ordering systems. Many adult brands use virtual line sheets, allowing for videos of a model wearing the samples and letting buyers see every angle of a garment and how it moves. I anticipate more kids’ brands to catch on to this movement, making it easier for childrenswear buyers who don’t have the time or budget to travel to trade shows.

VIRTUAL REALITY

w w w. i l o v e p l a y t i m e . c o m

SPONSORED CONTENT

W H A T ’S S E L L I N G

Anthill ShopNPlay Costa Mesa, CA

A

T 7,000-SQUARE-FEET, the bi-level boutique Anthill How about accessories? We always sell a lot of Sons & Daughters ShopNPlay is a shopping mecca for kids and parents. On sunglasses, and Living Royal socks are always colorful and fun. Overall, the first floor, more than 250 kids’ apparel, acces sories, we like to carry a lot of eco-friendly and socially conscious brands like toy and furniture brands are in the offering, plus vending machines Parkland backpacks because you can never go wrong with giving back full of candy and jewelry, coin-operated dolphin rides and interacto the community. tive discovery zones, like a mining area for sifting and learning about gems and a create-your-own model car section. And on the second Any new brands added to the mix recently? We’ve added a few new floor, moms can peruse fashion, home décor, accessories and novelty brands from Europe, specializing in sizes 10-16. This age can be difgifts. What’s more, the whole family can ficult for parents to shop, so we decided dine in its California-fusion restaurant to try to make that task a little easier by located within the boutique. offering brands that specialize in tweens.

“Our mission is to have something for everyone to enjoy at our store,” says Where do you draw inspiration for owner Elvira Kud, citing other added your buys? My children are always my values like gift-wrapping and ballooninspiration. I always had a difficulty findinflating services. “The extra activities ing cute and comfortable clothing for my make our store a destination for the three boys. That’s why I created a store whole family, exciting kids with new where families can shop together and find experiences while giving their parents anything for any budget. a little extra time to shop.” Kud adds, “If we’re doing our job, every customer Any specific trends on your radar for should leave with a smile.”

Spring ’20? A lot of parents are looking In addition to Anthill ShopNPlay’s for brands that are not only trendy but experiential format, the SoCal store comfortable and durable as well. A few has garnered a strong following for its years ago, everyone wanted less color, wide variety of unique and upscale so everything was beige, gray, black and kids’ brands since opening in 2016. white. Now people want colors again. I The selection ranges from organic, U.S.have my tried-and-true brands like Tiny made options to luxurious, European Cottons and Indikidual, but I’m also labels. “While some customers are bringing in more European brands to surprised by the higher price point, we meet customers’ demand. educate them about the quality they are receiving,” Kud says. “Our merchandise What’s the most important lesson From arcade games to gem mining, little customers and our store are more than worth it.” you’ve learned as a retailer? How keep busy with a wide selection of in-store activities.

—Aleda Johnson to communicate effectively with your customers. Our moms appreciate when How’s business? It’s going well. We’re you give more information about the growing as more people are getting to know us. People say consumers product, the brand’s background and what they represent. That way are being more budget conscious, and it did affect us last season when they know what they’re paying for! I always tell brands I work with that the Euro went high and those brands were pricier. But otherwise, they should put more information on their tags. If they use recycled it’s helped us narrow our brand list to see which ones customers are cotton or give a portion of proceeds to build water wells in Africa… responding to best. the customer should know because chances are that will influence their decision to buy.

What are your top-selling items? Overall, 3 Pommes, Rock Your Baby, Art + Eden and Mini Rodini always perform well. For boys in Where do you envision Anthill ShopNPlay in five years? We take particular, Paul Smith Junior is a good high-end brand, and labels orders over the phone, and people often ask why we don’t open a store like B.Nosy and Mini Shatsu are great for everyday. Native is the best in New York, Los Angeles, Texas or Florida. It’s something to think for shoes and Maneula de Juan from Spain is our best dress brand. about going forward, for sure.

34

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

Q&A continued from page 11 concept, have done something like that. It created a halo of brand buzz that carried from luxury sector to all our points of distribution. Plus, it’s just fun. The industry needs more fun.

Is the industry at least working toward a more stable landscape?

I’m not sure a stable landscape ever existed. The 20th century has been a time of constant turmoil, and this has escalated into the 21st century.

Also, waiting for the landscape to stabilize before taking your big shot is counter to historical success. Some of the Fortune 500’s biggest companies of the 20th century launched during the Great Depression.

And during the Great Recession, Apple, Facebook and Uber took off.

One of my favorite quotes is from Warren Buffet. When asked in 2009 what he was going to do about the recession, he replied, 'I choose not to participate.' We think the same way. We believe Birkenstock as a brand and a company can be in the industry but not of the industry. We don’t follow anyone. We think out of the box and big. So it’s less about waiting for the environment to stabilize and more about determining one’s own destiny by seizing opportunities that the disruption creates. I believe the currency for future success in business is cultural literacy. It’s about having an understanding of the macro factors—politically, socially, economically, environmentally—with regards also to art, fashion, music and lifestyles, and then determining what products may best serve a purpose and connect with people. We’re living in the age of Netflix. Twenty years ago, it was all about what TV show would get the largest audience at 8 p.m. on a Thursday night. Now it’s about how we slice and dice all the people who view content and make a connection where we, in turn, create a loyal fan base. It’s about finding your tribe versus being the biggest, broadest thing on the planet. This is so consistent with Birkenstock.

With brands ramping up DTC and retailers pursuing private label, will the sides need each other for much longer?

I believe retailers desperately need strong consumer brands. Not just ‘industry brands,’ but authentic consumer brands—ones that help validate them. While some private label can supplement the brands they carry, historically it’s never been a basis for success. Consider that the world’s largest athletic footwear chain, which knows its consumer inside and out and has a ton of name recognition, has never launched a private label brand. Why? Because the major brands in that space have such incredibly strong emotional connections with consumers that their focus is best on how to partner and bring those brands to life in its stores. On the brown shoe side, many retailers have put their toes in the private label water but make no mistake, it’s not a brand, it’s a label. That’s why the onus is on us to insure we continue to drive consumer demand. And while I’m 100 percent unapologetic in saying we have a right to engage our consumers in a commercial manner, we do so in a way that’s respectful to our retail partners, many who have been with us far before ecommerce was invented. It’s why we maintain strict MAP standards, we don’t discount on our DTC and we maintain strategic segmentation to ensure differentiation across channels—all of which helps retailers’ ROI. We treat our retail partners with the ultimate respect, and while we have a robust DTC business, it’s managed so as to build broader consumer demand and not compromise those partners. As an industry, we need to stop thinking of the business as a zero-sum game.

Some execs gripe the business has become much harder, with some longing for the days of making product, attending a trade show,

selling to brick-and-mortar retailers and repeat in six months.

Has it really become that much harder?

I don’t think so, at all. Honestly, I think a lot of execs are stuck in the past. Going to a show and selling shoes…Really? Is that how they want to run their business? How about creating products and brands that change people’s lives? How about bringing higher levels of happiness and satisfaction, not just to the footwear industry but to a broader society by the products you create? How about creating a company where employees can thrive and love going to work every day? Instead of a business as usual approach, our management team saw this brand as a diamond that needed to be shined. Does Nike just ‘sell sneakers,’ or do they bring products to market that share the highest energy of sport?

Does Apple just ‘sell phones,’ or do they change the world by bringing technology to your fingertips? Steve Jobs didn’t ask people, ‘Do you want your entire record collection on a handheld device?’ He took them there. He didn’t ask if they wanted a camera or internet access. Apple thought differently. It’s why we’re thinking differently across all functions of our organization.

You have a reputation for being one of the hardest working people in this business. Is that just what it takes?

What can replace hard work? Nothing. Work smart and hard. Look at Bruce Springsteen. He said it wasn’t about some 10,000-hour rule to master the guitar. It required countless more hours and now we benefit from his hard work. As long as the hard work I do serves others, it goes beyond even calling it ‘work.’ But no one is bigger than this brand. Our focus is not on the next few weeks, months or even year. It’s about where we take Birkenstock over the next decade and how we’ll leave it for future generations. Will Nike, for example, have a good quarter? Who cares.

What I can tell you is, in 25 years, Nike will likely still be the dominant sports brand on the face of the earth. Is Chanel or Hermès hot right now? Who cares. What I can tell you is, in 20 years, those brands will likely still represent the ultimate in taste and sophistication. The brand is sacrosanct. The definition of that word is clear: to be too important or valuable to be interfered with. This defines how we operate on all fronts: product development, service and distribution.

What fuels this relentless drive, because I’m guessing it goes beyond purely financial gain. Might having been a sneaker gopher for (a surly) Spike Lee back in your early Nike days have something to do with it?

Being Spike’s sneaker gopher was certainly humbling, but so was working part time in a Macy’s shoe department during college. Helping customers one at a time, climbing up and down stockroom ladders to get shoe boxes. I’m a firm believer in self-actualization. But as I’ve gotten older, I’ve come to believe that self-actualization isn’t enough. It’s about actualizing yourself so that you can serve and help others. Our mission is to sell products that bring people happiness and satisfaction, so it’s about doing my best to help bring that mission to fruition. If I develop the insight and skills to help manage this business to achieve our Moon Shot, surely that’ll benefit our end users who love our products, our retail partners who share in our success, and our entire team and their families who share in the success. Managing this brand is both an honor and an awesome responsibility that drives me every day. Whenever I’m in our Novato headquarters, I always walk into our customer service area and ask everyone the same question: 'What’s the most important day?'

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

35

FINAL CUT

Grand Slam Meet aspiring tennis star, philanthropist and childrenswear designer: 10-year-old Emma Wiesenfeld. By Aleda Johnson KNOWN AROUND SCHOOL as “the girl with the knee-high socks,” Miami-based fifth grader and tennis player Emma Wiesenfeld embraced her unique sense of style last year by starting her own activewear collection, Beloot by Emma. A cheerful line of signature socks and coordinating apparel, the Spring ’20 assortment includes neon-accented highperformance shirts, hats, headbands and, of course, knee-high socks, inspired by Wiesenfeld’s athletic lifestyle.

“Beloot isn’t just for tennis players—it’s for any kid who wants to look stylish on or off the court,” Wiesenfeld says, explaining how she’d always found it challenging to find “fun” sportswear in the kids’ department.

“Brands like Nike and Adidas only have mini Federer or mini Serena outfits. Those are nice, but not fun.”

Introducing her youthful take on athleisure at Children’s Club last month, Weisenfeld greeted each buyer who stopped in her booth with an infectious smile and passionate pitch.

With product made from eco-friendly materials and manufactured in America, Weisenfeld received positive reactions, but what sealed the deal was her mission to donate a portion of sales to a worthy cause. “A year ago, my tennis coach was hospitalized with a stroke that left him with overwhelming medical bills,” Weisenfeld says, noting that 10 percent of Beloot’s proceeds will be donated to her coach’s cause. In addition, she started a Go Fund Me page to help her coach through this difficult time. So far, Weisenfeld has raised more than $30,000 with an ultimate goal of $45,000. “When my coach gets better, I would love for him to work for Beloot,” she says. “He’s such an inspiration to me, so I know he will inspire others, too!”

Looking ahead, Weisenfeld wants to expand Beloot to include attire for boys, teens and babies. “I see Beloot in multiple shops around the world,” she says. “My ultimate dream is to have professional tennis players wear Beloot—so this is just the beginning!”

What made you fall in love with tennis?

My dad put me in a class when I was four, and

36

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

I was hooked. I used to play two times a week, but for the last three years, I’ve been playing competitively and training four to five times a week. That includes two tournaments per month. It’s just such a fun sport, and when I have a bad day, it lets me get all that bad energy out.

What’s your go-to tennis sneaker? I always wear the same model of neon pink Babolat sneakers, but recently I also like the Adidas Stan Smith.

What’s your off-the-court style? I like to wear comfortable clothes with fun designs—lots of plain, one-color T-shirts. I like to wear skirts, too! As for shoes, ballerina flats are my favorite.

Do you like to accessorize? I like fun headbands—like with a big bow, for instance. I also like leggings paired with ballerina skirts. I don’t wear a lot of jewelry, except a pair of earrings I got for my birthday.

Where do you like to shop? I usually shop in stores. My favorites are Zara, Nike and Pottery Barn for Kids. But if I’m looking for anything school-related, I shop online.

FA S T FAV E S Movie: Matilda TV Show: “Modern Family” Music: “One Kiss” by Calvin Harris and Dua Lipa. I also like Lil’ Nas! Celebrity: Stefanos Tsitsipas Restaurant: Gyu-Kaku Japanese BBQ Snack: Oreos and Goldfish Vacation destination: France and Italy. My dad is French and my mom is Italian.

Holiday: Thanksgiving. My family always goes away as just the four of us.

Color: Neon pink

What are some popular fashion trends your friends are sporting? My little brother is into 270s from Nike, and my good friend Valeria wears Fila sneakers a lot. The ones she has are very cool. Neon colors are also popular right now—just like my Beloot clothing!

How about a recent trend you didn’t like?

Big, huge (dad) sneakers and ones with a lot of different colors. I just don’t think that looks good.

What do you want to be when you grow up? A professional tennis player!

What are three of your top goals right now? Number one, to win the French Open.

Second, go to the Mouratoglou tennis academy in France next year for middle school. Third, to go to Hawaii!