Earnshaw's | Infants', Girls', Boys' Wear Review | 2010 • January

INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW

JANUARY 2010 $5.00

Icy Hot Warm Hues and Subtle Details Heat Up Outerwear

Gift Rap The 10 Must-Have Gift Categories

By The Book School Uniforms Make the Grade Making The Majors Tips for Selling Into Department Stores

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www.littleme.com Northeast – Robert Ducker 781-320-9477 Southeast – Paul Daubney 404-577-6840 Caribbean/Latin America – Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745 Texas/Southwest – Lonnie Muse 800-437-5136 West Coast – Teresa Stephen 866-723-KIDS Midwest – Richard Finkelstein 800-935-0236

See us at: The Children’s Club NYC, Jan. 10th – 12th Booth No. 7720 The Kids Show LasVegas Feb. 15th – 17th Booth No. 312 Little Me is a Division of Mamiye Brothers Inc.

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Bella Rose Imports 131 W. 33rd Street Ste. #201 New York, NY 10001 phone 212-594-7673

January

VOLUME 94, NUMBER 1

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ON THE COVER: Hawke & Co. coat. ON THIS PAGE: Coat by Hawke & Co.; E-Land Kids sweater. Photography

by Linda Farwell. Hair and makeup by Tonya Noland for Marc Edward Inc. Fashion editor: Caletha Crawford.

FE ATURES

12 Apparel 14 Licensing

30 The 10 Commandments of the Well-Stocked Gift Selection Shop owners list o the gift categories every store should stock.

COLU MNS

What’s Selling Pampered Unwrapped Little Steps C2C The Goods Retail Spotlight

IN EVERY IS SU E

10 Publisher’s Letter 11 Editor’s Letter 21 Calendar 55 Where to Buy 55 Ad Index

36 Lofty Aspirations Veteran department store retailers reveal what it takes to sell-in and sell-through in the majors.

38 Clean Cuts School uniform makers get a lift from sportswear’s preppy turn and kids’ fondness for geek-chic looks.

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42 Deep Freeze Outerwear collections prep children for the cold without putting style into hibernation.

56 I Spy Designers scour the forest for critters fit for kids’ goods.

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly (except for bi-monthly April/May and November/December editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 8 W. 38th Street, Suite 201, New York, NY 10018-0150. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing ofďŹ ces. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2010 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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www.rashtiandrashti.com 1375 Broadway, 20th Floor New York, NY 10018 Ph: 212-594-3733 Fax: 212-594-9102 Š2010 Rashti & Rashti, Baby Starters, and Snuggle Buddy are registered trademarks of H.J. Rashti & Company, Inc. Carter’s is a registered trademark owned and licensed by The William Carter Company. TAGGIES is a registered trademark owned by Taggies, Inc. US Patent No. RE38782

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12/21/09 11:07:37 AM

publisher’s letter www.earnshaws.com

Rita Polidori O'Brien Publisher

(RE)INTRODUCING EARNSHAW’S A New Year, new ideas and a new hat.

Ringing in the N ew Year is more exciting when y ou’re w earing a fashionable ne w dress. O r a ne w hat. I’ m ex cited to be wearing my ne w hat as publisher of Earnshaw’s. M y N ew Year’s r esolution?

To listen to y our insights about our ev erchanging industry, learn more about your challenges and specific needs, and deliv er solutions that will help y ou achiev e y our goals this year and beyond.

As we emerge from one of the toughest retail climates in memor y, ther e’s light on the horiz on as shoppers ’ confidence Rita Polidori O'Brien cautiously r eturns. N ow is the time to Publisher capitalize on r enewed optimism and attract customers. Earnshaw’s editorial staff helps b y offering the latest industry news, helpful merchandising advice, in-depth market analysis and award-winning fashion co verage. From my desk, y ou can expect marketing solutions that deliver results. As a publishing executive with nearly 20 years of experience, I have a proven track record of delivering results for advertisers and I look forward to doing the same for you.

More and more, manufacturers ask us how to use the power of the online world—w ebsites, social networ ks, e-mail—to mar ket their products because they don ’t hav e the time, technical kno w-how or resources to succeed. Problem solved. Earnshaw’s has developed new initiatives for manufactur ers to communicate with r etailers both in print and via digital platforms that offer expanded r each at mor e frequent and timely inter vals; I affectionately call these pr oducts “E-Shaw’s.”

A r evamped w ebsite launching later this month; customiz ed, exclusively sponsor ed e-ne wsletters; and a par tnership with ’P eeps Creative—a ne w arm of S ymphony Publishing that pr ovides ser vices such as w ebsite dev elopment, sear ch engine optimization, and video pr oduction—are all av ailable to y ou. And in r esponse to manufacturers’ requests for targeted digital platforms, w e’re launching brand-new daily E-S haw’s to keep y our company on the top of buyers’ minds. E legant Baby is the pioneering sponsor; other , limited opportunities are available—but you’ll have to act fast.

As for the Earnshaw’s print edition? I t will only get better . S tay tuned for inter esting surprises in the near futur e. I’ll be back to chat with y ou in M arch (hmm, a hint? ) and am confident y ou will lo ve what you see. In the meantime, feel free to drop me a note at robrien@ symphonypublishing.com.

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Caletha Crawford Editor in Chief EDITORIAL Leslie Shiers Managing Editor Melissa Knific Features Editor Angela Velasquez Editorial Assistant Jacqueline Micucci Contributing Editor Del-Ann Henry Editorial Intern Nancy Campbell Creative Director Trevett Neal McCandliss Art Director

ADVERTISING Erwin Pearl Vice President of Sales ext. 17, epearl@symphonypublishing.com Caroline Diaco Special Accounts Manager ext. 18, cdiaco@symphonypublishing.com Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager ext. 19, jcraig@symphonypublishing.com Alex Marinacci Account Executive ext. 10, amarinacci@symphonypublishing.com Patrick Thomas Sales Representative, Canada (514) 383-0916, pthomas@symphonypublishing.com Maureen Johan Classified Sales (781) 453-9310, mjohan@symphonypublishing.com Laurie Guptill Production A D M I N I S T R AT I O N Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager Sanford Kearns Webmaster EDITORIAL AND EXECUTIVE OFFICE 8 West 38th Street, Suite 201, New York, NY 10018-0150 Tel. (646) 278-1550, Fax (646) 278-1553 nyeditorial@symphonypublishing.com CIRCULATION OFFICE 21 Highland Circle, Needham, MA 02494 Tel. (781) 453-9310 ext. 24, Fax (781) 453-9389 circulation@symphonypublishing.com

SYMPHONY PUBLISHING NY, LLC CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS 26202 Detroit Road, Suite 300, Westlake, OH 44145 Tel. (440) 871-1300

Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Sid Davis Group Publisher

January 2010

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editor’s letter SOME THINGS CERTAIN The retail world keeps turning.

Though it would be nice to think that the economic turmoil and uncer tainty that held us in its grasp last year is a thing of the past, discarded with last year’s calendar, the truth is that we’re still digging our way out.

But the principles w e’ve learned fr om the toughest days of 2009 will ser ve us all w ell whether recovery is right around the corner or far ther off in the distance. S o for no w, we should take a moment to celebrate all of the retailers and brands that survived the year and stand poised to take on whatev er 2010 holds.

One thing is cer tain—life goes on.

New babies, bir thdays, christenings and bat mitzvahs all lay on the horiz on, which is gr eat ne ws for r etailers. S hop o wners know anything that qualifies as a gift rates among their swiftest turns. I n “ The 10 Commandments of the Well-Stocked

Gift S election” (page 30), r etailers divulge their tips for stocking gifts that suit ev ery taste—from eager grandmas to crunchy coworkers. To help you get started on shoring up your gift area, we’ve also showcased the latest personalizable goods in our Pampered department (page 18), and the Unwrapped section (page 20) highlights some of the top picks y ou’ll find at this month ’s New York International Gift Fair.

For vendors who hav e resolved to catch the eye of a major r etailer this y ear, “Lofty Aspirations” (page 36) outlines what y ou need to kno w about the v endor/retailer relationship from the perspective of former department stor e buy ers. Armed with this insider kno weldge, brands can better prepare for the ex citing pr ospect of those big orders.

Outerwear manufactur ers gr eet the fall season with styles that offer versatility, value and fashion. The category demonstrates an increased focus on transitional items like soft shells and vests that sell whether winter

cooperates or not, as w ell as r eversibles, which add life to each garment. Though these practical aspects ar e impor tant, the category pr ovides aspirational designs in the form of faux leather and fur looks.

Placed graphics like deconstr ucted plaids and digital geometrics add inter est to boys’ systems and puffers, while small details such as r uching and r uffles update girls ’ silhouettes. I n “D eep Freeze” (page 42), our models brav ed the cold to sho w off a smattering of the key looks for the season.

Caletha Crawford Editor in Chief

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apparel news Llum

Switcha Pocket

Magnificent Baby

LittoKids

Eco Bella Bello

NEW LINES • S witcha Pocket of S tamford, Conn., introduces a patent-pending collection of denim jeans and skir ts with inter changeable pockets. I ntended for girls siz es 4 to 12, the Peruvian cotton pieces featur e the “Speedy S witch” Velcro system, allo wing wearers to alternate between 32 glam, cute, sweet and spor ty looks. S kirts wholesale for $17.99, jeans are $19.99, and pockets run fr om $3.99 to $8.99 for individual styles and sets. E-mail jlebl@switchapocket.com. • Developed for easy dressing, New York-based Magnificent B aby debuts a unisex line of lay ette w ear that eliminates the need for pulling garments o ver bab y’s head. Kimono tops, one-pieces, r ompers and gowns feature a patent-pending magnetic closur e system. O ther items include pants, hats, bibs and a blanket. Each piece in the farm-themed collection— available for 0 to 12 months—is made of 100-percent combed-cotton interlock.

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Tyler Trends

Pieces wholesale for $6.50 to 16.50. Call (678) 637-8500 or visit www.magnificentbaby.com. • D esigned b y a digital ar tist, Tyler Trends of Kristiansand, N orway, launches a line of shor t- and long-sleev e T-shirts and one-pieces featuring original animal scr eenprints. The shor t-sleeve items ar e made in the U nited S tates b y sweatshop-free manufactur ers, and the long-sleeve pieces ar e made in I ndia and are 100-percent fair-trade organic. The cotton collection is intended for ne wborns to 6-y ear-old bo ys and girls and featur es animal faces, including a monkey , giraffe, polar bear, ladybug and mor e. The line wholesales for $11 to $12. Visit www.tylertrends.com. • M eaning “light ” in Catalan, Llum of P hiladelphia debuts a modern line of cotton clothing for siz es 6 months to 5 years that is dr essy but ideal for play .

Girls can choose fr om the B ertoia dr ess, an A-line silhouette with r uffles on the hem, neckline and sleev es; the M iró dress, a trapeze style with contrasting br own and white panels in the fr ont and back; the reversible D irndl wrap skir t; plus swing sets, tees, pants and mor e. Llum bo ys’

wear includes a r eversible pullo ver v est, pants and tees. Wholesale prices r un $18 to $35. Visit www.llum.com. • LittoKids of M anhattan B each, Calif ., div es into apparel with LittoKids O rganics, an ecofriendly line that follo ws the brand ’s stylish yet functional philosophy with its textiles and furniture. For girls, the line offers rompers with cinched legs, dr esses with colorful patterned pockets and hand-cut flowers, leggings and kimono tops. The boys’ selection includes r eversible v ests, balloon pants with hand-cut pockets, ties with whimsical animal patches and r ompers with hand-stitched pockets. The color palette includes char coal, mint, sky blue, lavender, bubble gum and raspberr y. Items range from size 0 to 4T and wholesale for $8 to $22. Call (714) 328-3360.

Clarification: I n the N ov./Dec. issue, Earnshaw’s celebrated the 2009 Earnie winners, including J efferies S ocks, which took the top priz e for hosier y. Earnshaw’s would like to clarify that the Earnie win encompassed both of the company ’s brands: Jefferies Socks and Country Kids. earnshaws.com

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10/7/2009

Kidz at Stylemax Trade Show to Launch This month, N orth American trade and consumer sho w pr oducer MMP I debuts Kidz at Stylemax, a trade sho w spanning all categories of childr en’s wear. The show, set for Jan. 30–Feb. 2 in Chicago, will provide the Midwest with a new marketplace, bringing the best lines in the industr y to one conv enient location, accor ding to Susan McCullough, senior vice pr esident of MMPI apparel. “Currently there is not one strong children’s wear trade show in the Midwest, and MMPI intends to change that,” she noted. “Childr en’s wear is a gr owing categor y for the [appar el] industr y and its importance in the marketplace demands the focus of a dedicated show.”

Kidz at Stylemax will debut alongside S tylemax, a women’s apparel and accessory trade show, also held at The Merchandise Mart. Apparel, accessories and gift items will be featured at the kids’ show, which will be held four times per y ear. Call (800) 677-6278 or visitwww.merchandisemart.com.

Grand Avenue PR Opens Showroom Los Angeles-based boutique PR and mar keting firm G rand Avenue PR founders Karie Reynolds and Barbie Dávalos have opened the Grand Avenue Baby showroom in par tnership with sales r epresentative M ichael G onzales of M etropolitan Kids.

Located in the Kids on 6 section of the California M arket Center, Grand Avenue Baby will offer a platform for companies selling pr oducts for mothers and babies to combine brand marketing and promotion.

“We launched the sho wroom to help emerging and established mom and bab y lines connect the dots between PR and sales,” Reynolds explained. G rand A venue PR’s media r elationships will help captur e attention for the pr oduct lines while the sho wroom puts them right in fr ont of West Coast retailers. Along with the CMC location, the firm is also pr esenting an online sho wroom at www.grandavenuebaby.com, wher e buy ers will find pr oduct information, blogs about industry tr ends, exper t commentar y and more. Contact the sho wroom at (213) 6271230 or visitwww.grandavenuepr.com.

Bubble Cancels March 2010 Edition New York-based Bubble Trade Shows has announced that there will not be a March edition of B ubble New York. For three years Bubble has been held twice a y ear in New York, offering an intimate setting for buy ers to shop ex clusive children’s lines.

Show founders F lorence R olando and Vanessa Boz cited mar ket conditions as a leading factor in the decision. “ A number of cir cumstances w ere jeopardizing the success of the sho w, and w e did not want to do things halfway or to put the commercial success of our exhibitors at risk, ” the par tners said in a statement. R olando and Boz said that all exhibitors will r eceive full reimbursements. For more information, visit www.bubbletradeshows.com. earnshaws.com

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licensing news B.U.M. Equipment Is Back The B.U.M. E quipment brand—big in the ’90s—r eturns to the mar ket in S pring ’10 (after about five years away) via several new licensees, including Sierra Fashions of New York for boys’ wear and young men’s. Boys’ sizes 8 to 20 will include casual takedowns bridging vintage and modern styling, from tees and r ugby polos to denim and cargo shor ts. “ There is a pretty simple formula for bringing back a brand such as B.U.M, ” Sierra Fashions CEO S andy S harma said.

“Give them tr end-right pr oduct at great prices while constantly exploring ne w av enues in design to cr eate buzz and excitement.” Sierra Fashions is targeting depar tment and specialty stores. Wholesale prices will run about $12 to $37. Call (212) 221-7770.

SGI Provides Goosebumps for Bedtime SGI A pparel of H ackensack, N.J., is intr oducing sleep wear featuring Scholastic Entertainment’s Goosebumps property for bo ys and girls siz es 2 to 16. The line includes hanging and packaged sets and separates and spans pajamas, nightgowns, robes, sleep pants, blanket sleepers, bo xers and under wear sets. E lisa G angl, SGI A pparel’s vice president of licensing, noted the designs featur e book cover art as well as images of the series’ main characters.

A soft launch in all tiers for spring will be follo wed up with a larger Fall ’10 line. For pricing, call SGI A pparel at (201) 336-1700.

Awake Bows Scarlett & Crimson Tween Apparel Awake Inc., the women’s division of San Fernando, Calif.-based JEM S portswear, has been named master apparel licensee for the tween property Scarlett & Crimson and will bow a fashion-driven contemporary collection for back to school. “It’s not just a T-shirt line,” said Randi Kagan Spieker, vice president of licensing for A wake Inc. Expect to see tops, sw eatshirts, dresses, tunics and various bottoms that feature print applications, specialty washes and mor e. Awake will likely launch the appar el through a single retail partner but plans to grow the line to multiple tiers in 2011. Prices had not been set as of press time. Call (818) 365-9361.

Scarlett & C rimson—from U.K. cr eator Coolabi—features two best friends who love r ocking out and blogging and pr omote independent thinking. Lisa M arks, president of Lisa Marks & Associates (LMA), the licensing agency that br okered the deal, said more licensees (for accessories, gifts, stationery, toys, publishing and more) will be named in the near future. For other opportunities, call (914) 933-3900.

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January 2010

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Hot Properties • Minneapolis manufacturer Trend Lab is collaborating with NASCAR on a new line of crib and toddler bedding, décor, storage, gifts, diaper bags and more for summer 2010. The line will expand to include bodysuits and bibs and more late next y ear. Trend Lab is offering moderate price points and will wed NASCAR themes with its signature contemporar y styling. Call (952) 890-6700. • F AB/Starpoint of N ew York announces thr ee ne w licenses— Art Impressions’ Skelanimals, Disney’s Alice in Wonderland and S anrio’s Keroppi—for which it will pr oduce tween-oriented fashion and home products. Bags, stationery and gift items will be av ailable beginning in S pring ’10 and ar e gear ed to ward midtier, mass and specialty retailers. Call (212) 947-9001.

• The Fairfield Fun Factory of Fairfield, Conn., is creating licensed v ersions of its Ziggideez convertible charKeroppi acter accessories—shoes, rings and plush clips that attach to apparel, hats and mor e. Through deals with N ickelodeon, M arvel Comics, HIT and D isney, the company no w holds licenses for Dora the E xplorer, SpongeBob SquarePants, Toy Story, Cars, Disney Princesses, Barney and Spider-Man, among others. The washable items wholesale for about $1 to $3.50 and are aimed at specialty stor es and mass r etailers. Call (718) 764-0156 or visit www.ziggideez.com. • Discovery Communications and the J oester Loria Group have tapped ne w Animal Planet licensees. C&A S portswear of Baltimore is offering branded T-shirts, hoodies, fleece, bags, hats and mor e.

For Fall ’10, Infinity H eadwear and Apparel of R ogers, Ar k., will pr oduce children’s cold-w eather accessories and bags. The Animal P lanet lines will be distributed to z oo, museum and amusement par k gift shops as w ell as specialty and online stor es. Call C&A Sportswear at (800) 774-7434; and Infinity at (479) 464-7563.

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WS

W H AT ’ S S E L L I N G Houston Area

Feltman Bros.

Susanne Lively Belle Ame

Alexandra & Austin

Ava Grace Children’s Boutique

Mommie Chic and Me

After moving to her new 1,200-squarefoot location in 2004, owner Mary Joe Surbook decided to concentrate solely on quality special occasion items for children.

Since then, she has moved a great deal of her business to the online marketplace, having noticed more customers shopping from home. Surbook cited that step as a reason for her success in 2009, along with careful ordering. (She only stocks one or two pieces of each item.) “We were very careful in not overbuying,” she noted.

“You can’t allow yourself to get stuck with inventory you can’t turn around quickly.”

This 1,000-square-foot Sugar Land, Texas, shop aims to make every child feel like royalty. Opened in 2007 by Michelle Patterson, a former regional sales manager with 25 years of retail experience, this retailer aims to provide unparalleled customer service and whimsical clothing and gifts. “I’ve seen the ups and downs. You have to work harder and smarter,” Patterson said in regard to last year’s retail trials. Plans are in place to improve the store’s website in 2010 since customers like to browse online before coming in. Patterson also plans to add new items and brands that fit her core business.

With an extensive background in retail and as a stay-at-home mother of two, Melissa McKinnie knows exactly what customers seek at her quaint, 1,200square-foot boutique. The intimate setting, located in an old house, is the perfect place for McKinnie to get to know her customers. She said paying attention to their shopping patterns helped her identify categories to extend in 2009—namely, baby clothing and gifts.

As 2010 begins, McKinnie hopes recent remodeling and an expanded accessories section will drive more business.

pettiskirt dresses

• Pink Tangerine: Pink, blue, and brown

INFANTS/TODDLERS

• Bailey Boys: pink and white checked

angel dresses with white grosgrain bows and cupcake motifs; white dupioni silk christening gowns and bonnets with beading and pin-tucking details Bailey Boys: pink baby gowns with pink roses; lavender satin ruffle dresses; pink five-tier crochet dresses Zaza Couture: raspberry Cinderellastyle layered dresses Peaches ‘n’ Cream: blue printed tunics and capris Cachcach: pink gowns with matching headbands and hats Bailey Boys: reversible jumpers with Christmas scene on one side and ladybug motif on the other Feltman Brothers: pink take-me-home dresses; blue rompers for boys

• • • • • •

GIRLS 4 TO 6X

• Susanne Lively: silk organza beaded dresses • Katie & Company: white silk dresses with pink sashes • Haven Girl: black ruffle-sleeve dresses with silver sequins • Belle Ame: tank style, red sparkle 16

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• Ooh La! La! Couture: long-sleeve, black python pettiskirt dresses • Tea Collection: long-sleeve A-line pink and brown printed Daily Tea dresses • Good Lad: corduroy jumpers with a

princess scene on front and long-sleeve shirts Mis-Tee-V-Us: hot pink holiday dresses with wreath appliqués Peaches ‘n’ Cream: animal-print knit tunics and pants Girlfriends by Anita G: colorful knit dress and leggings sets

• • •

BOYS 4 TO 7

• Gordon & Company: three-piece white silk suits with long-sleeve sateen cotton shirts and short pants Camilo: five-piece traditional tuxedos

•

GIRLS 7 TO 14

• Susanne Lively: white silk dresses with

beaded bodices and solid dupioni silk skirts with beading on front panel and a flower sash Haven Girl: multicolor print, squareneck tunics with embellished neckline and matching turquoise leggings

•

peasant knit tunic with crochet flower and ruffle bottom pants Kaiya Eve: leopard, floral-print pettiskirts with matching ruffle tanks Anita G: long-sleeve pink and black printed A-line dresses Little Zazzy: leopard-print sleeveless shirts and capris Zaza Couture: brown and turquoise dresses with faux fur at the hem

• • • •

ACCESSORIES/GIFTS

• Us Angels: veils and headbands • Lelli Kelly: embellished Mary Janes • Party Bags: flower headbands with rhinestones • Reflectionz: crocheted flower baby hats and headbands • Petunia Pickle Bottom: diaper bags • Bunnies By The Bay: bunny blankets • Little Giraffe: chenille blankets and pillows • Mud Pie: baby bracelets • Gund: huggy buddies • Pediped: brown Isabella Mary Janes • Marcy Jolly: bottle cap necklaces • Piggy Paint: all-natural nail polish • Wee Ones: hair bows — -

DEL ANN HENRY

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P

PA M P E R E D Baby Products & News

Elegant Baby jumpsuit Januzzi T-shirt

MJK Knits hat

Baby Deer by Trimfoot bootie

Name Tag Gifts with a label keep it personal.

No Slippy Hair Clippy barrette

–Melissa Knific Sophie & Lili dolls

Tutu Girl bloomers

BeadifulBABY bracelet

Maple Landmark room décor

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January 2010

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Disney Partners with Halo

Minnetonka, M inn.-based H alo i ntroduces i ts f irst licensed collection in partnership with Disney for 2010. W innie t he P ooh w ill a ppear o n t he b rand’s SleepSack s waddle a nd we arable bl ankets f or 0 to 1 2 months. T he E arly Walker Sle epSack a nd Bi g K id’s SleepSack f or k ids up to si ze 5T w ill f eature M ickey Mouse, Pooh and Princess characters. The cotton and fleece l ine, w hich w holesales f or $14, i s e mbellished with appliqués and prints. Halo also adds two- and three-piece h anging s ets f or b abies up to 9 mo nths.

Each c omes w ith a Sle epSack s waddle o r we arable blanket a nd i s p ackaged w ith a lo ng-sleeve c overall, bodysuit o r b oth. C olorations i nclude s age, p ink a nd blue. S ets w holesale b etween $18 and $25. C all ( 888) 999-4256 or visit www.halosleep.com.

New Lines

Made by Angie

Lifefactory

Crown Crafts to Produce Pampers Infant Line Juvenile p roducts m anufacturer Cro wn Cr afts o f Gonzales, La., has secured a l icense from The Procter & G amble C ompany of C incinnati to de velop a n assortment of infant products under the Pampers brand n ame. T he vendo r pl ans to i ntroduce Pampers infant b edding, bl ankets, bibs, b ath g oods a nd s lings via its Crown Crafts Infant Products and Hamco subsidiaries for an expected release date in Spring ’10.

“This partnership is a continuation of our efforts to offer differentiated products and to f urther access the infant products market,” said E. Randall Chestnut, CEO of Crow n Cr afts. A ccording to P atrick K raus, marketing d irector f or P ampers N orth A merica, t he brand i s quickly e volving f rom its ro ots i n d iapers to “a t rue p arenting c ompany w ith p roducts, re sources a nd s ervices to he lp p arents c are f or t he h appy, healthy de velopment of t heir c hildren.” V isit www. crowncrafts.com.

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Mayron’s Good Baby

Hello World

• Chicago-based Made by Angie delivers fun baby wipe case covers that fit standard travel-size cases with padded fabric and coordinating trim.

Choose from 75 fabric options, including cowboy, baseball and fruit prints; an array of florals; stripes and polka dots ($15 wholesale). Visit www.madebyangie.com. • Lifefactory of Sausalito, Calif., adds multisensory teethers to its line of health-conscious juvenile accessories. Made from medical grade silicone, each teether ($4 wholesale) features nubs and ribs to help motor skills and tongue movement and ready baby for food textures. The teether’s shape also promotes one- or two-handed use and can be worn on parents’ wrists.

Visit www.lifefactory.com.

• Mayron’s Good Baby of Los Angeles introduces a line of natural and organic body products for babies, which includes tangerine massage and body oil, chapped cheek and lip protector, and diaper cream infused with essential oils, vitamins and antioxidants. Items are sold individually or as gift sets and travel packs in retro packaging.

The line wholesales for $6 to $7.

Visit www.mayronsgoodbaby. com. • The SmartZip sleeper from Indianapolis-based Hello World features a two-way zipper designed for quick diaper changes. The footed one-piece can unzip from the top or bottom and includes a fabric cover over the zipper for comfort and safety. The sleeper is available in four sizes for 0 to 12 months and wholesales for $14. Visit www. helloworldclothing.com.

January 2010

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U

U N W R A P P E D New Giftable Items

HB Henriot hand-painted dinnerware

Dandelion Earth Friendly Goods doll

THE CLASSICS

Eeboo craft set

Party Pleasers This month’s New York International Gift Fair overflows with presents for every occasion. –Angela Velasquez Fidoodle building blocks

Mele & Co. musical jewelry box

Kaloo doll

Peter Pauper Press doll Golden Rabbit dinnerware set 20

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Market dates and events

JANUARY 6-13

Atlanta International Gift & Home Furnishings Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

10-12

ENK Children’s Club Javits Center New York, NY (212) 759-8055 www.enkshows.com

13-19

Dallas Total Home & Gift Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX

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(214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

14-16

Surf Expo Orange County Convention Center Orlando, FL (800) 947-7873 www.surfexpo.com

15-19

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3600 www.californiamarketcenter.com

17-18

Minnesota/Chicago Children’s Wear Collective Millennium Hotel

Minneapolis, MN www.chicagocwc.com

21-22

Gulf Coast Children’s Caravan River Oaks Convention Center Lafayette, LA (800) 666-4543

21-23

Pitti Immagine Bimbo Fortezza da Basso Florence, Italy www.pittimmagine.com

21-24

Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com 3 23

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U

U N W R A P P E D New Giftable Items

Zutano dress

Natural Life one-piece and sock set

Wildwood Productions tee

BABY ESSENTIALS

Wanart embroidered bodysuit

Lucky Jade bamboo cotton swaddling blanket

Wow Baby bib

American Terry organic bath set

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Market dates and events

JANUARY 21-25

Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

23-27

Chicago Gift Show The Merchandise Mart Chicago, IL (800) 677-6278 www.mmart.com

23-26

Seattle Gift Show Washington State Convention & Trade Center, Seattle, WA (678) 285-3976 www.seattlegiftshow.com

24-25

Michigan/Chicago Children’s Wear Collective Farmington Hills Manor Farmington Hills, MI www.chicagocwc.com

24-25

Gulf Coast Children’s Caravan Crown Plaza New Orleans Airport Kenner, LA (800) 666-4543

24-26

NW Kid’s Show Seattle Doubletree Guest Suites Seattle Airport/Southcenter Seattle, WA www.nwkidsshow.com

29-Feb. 2

Chicago Children’s Wear Collective

1229 N. North Branch Chicago, IL www.chicagocwc.com

30-Feb. 1

NYC Baby & Kids Fair 7 W 34th St. New York, NY (212) 279-6063

30-Feb. 2

Kidz at Stylemax The Merchandise Mart Chicago, IL (800) 677-6278 www.stylemaxonline.com

30-Feb. 4

New York International Gift Fair Javits Center & Pier 94 New York, NY (800) 272-7469 www.nyigf.com 3 27

wearable works of art * organic baby apparel

CPSIA compliant Available now

organic cotton * fair labor telephone 571.484.2676 sales@fiercehugs.com www.fiercehugs.com

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12/17/09 1:36:08 PM

LS

L I T T L E S T E P S Footwear Retail and Style

Natural Extension

Children’s shoe brand Robeez goes organic with the debut of its Eco Collection, a l ine for babies and kids made of g reener materials and starring nature-inspired imagery. “Robeez as a brand is developed to promote good balance and unrestricted growth, while p rotecting l ittle f eet f rom t he wo rld,” note d R achel P anetta, director of marketing for Stride Rite Children’s Group, a division of L exington, Mass.-based Collective Brands. “Now we offer a complete eco-friendly collection that continues to be best for baby when learning to w alk and helps protect a b aby’s future environment.”

The Spring ’10 l ine includes crib shoes a nd a r ange of pl ayground-ready s tyles f or older c hildren. T he upp ers a re m ade of E-Leather, which consists of 60-percent recycled leather, as well as 100-percent organic cotton canvas. Chrome-free leath-

ers make up the breathable linings, while the outsoles are made of soft, chrome-free suede for comfort. For 0 to 2 years, Robeez offers t hree ver sions of i ts c lassic s oft-sole si lhouettes pl us a Mary J ane a nd a T -strap sh oe. Ro beez w ouldn’t be Ro beez without the child-friendly motifs, and the Eco designs include a t ree a nd birds; a b right g reen t ree f rog; feet w ith t he words “tiny footprint;” a b right, feminine f loral pattern; and f lowers with the phrase “flower child.” All printing is done with watersoluble inks.

Bigger b oys a nd g irls ( sizes 3 t hrough 7 ) c an c hoose f rom fisherman sandals in bright pink, brown or navy; surf-inspired slip-ons with a sea turtle motif; Mary Janes with floral or fruit details; a nd b oat s hoe–inspired lo oks ja zzed up w ith pl aid o r argyle and touches of marine-centric embroidery. These feature the same eco-friendly components as well as outsoles made with 30-percent recycled rubber.

According to Panetta, products that are organic or eco-friendly are not t he f inal deciding factor for moms, but the Eco line provides that extra option. Best of all, brand spokeswoman Malinda Freitas noted the prices are right in line with Robeez’s core collection, with soft soles wholesaling for approximately $15 and the First Steps shoes priced around $17.50. Stride Rite is targeting better department stores, independents and select e-tailers.

Call (800) 688-3239 or visit www.robeez.com. —l esl ie s h ier s

Born Again BBC International, a manufacturer of children’s licensed footwear based in Randolph, Mass., and Boca Raton, Fla., has taken on the Born kids’ product for Fall ’10, rolling out everyday options for youth as well as NuBorn crib shoes for infants. According to David Kern, vice president of sales and marketing, “Born has a really loyal following that we’re hoping to capitalize on as well.” He said BBC is working closely with Born’s design team but is u sing its ow n e xpertise i n t he k ids’ market to a dapt t he brand’s trademark leather products for smaller feet.

The initial collection is filled with core silhouettes made with full-grain leathers, taking the form of hand-stitched clogs, Mary Janes, boots and spoon-toe ballerinas for girls and slip-ons, classic lace-ups and dressy sneakers for boys in sizes 0 to 4 f or toddlers and 10.5 to 7 for youth. “Leather is so much of what we do,” Kern said, not ing t he mix of smo oth a nd crinkled leather a nd suede textures makes the product line unique. While the styles tend tow ard t he c lassic ( think A merican re vival a nd her itage

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shapes), B BC k eeps t he e mbellishments f resh w ith g rommets, buckles, fringe, subtle studding, shearling touches, contrast accent s titching, a nd ple ating a nd b raiding de tails. F or t he f all season, de ep je wel tones bring a w armer opt ion to a n a rray of black and brown staples.

BBC is targeting the Born line at better department and specialty stores, with prices ranging between approximately $30 to $50. The NuBorn line—booties and slip-ons packaged in giftready boxes—will wholesale for roughly $15 to $19. Contact BBC International at (877) 222-7565 or www.bbcint.com. —l .s.

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limeapple

For all girls for all times... www.limeapple.ca 1.800.359.5171

FULL ADS_jan.indd 25

12/15/09 10:26:35 AM

C2C

C O A S T TO C O A S T Spotlighting Fashions Nationwide

Well Suited Swede Deal After f acing m uch t urmoil—including job lo ss a nd divorce—Mia L undmyr k new s he’d h ave to overc ome her a dversity to m ake a s uccessful l ife f or her t hen-toddler a nd s oon-to-be-born b aby. She h ad g rown we ary of the bl and, o rganic c hildren’s c lothing o n t he m arket, s o decided to t ake the leap a nd bring a l ittle edginess to t he industry. The Stockholm, Sweden-based designer’s unisex mix-and-match c ollection mad e w ith a ll-natural c otton materials is now d istributed t hroughout Europe, a nd t his season—thanks to T he S candinavian C ompany of W est Palm Beach, Fla.—it is launching Stateside.

Lundmyr a pparel c omprises f our c ollections i n a b old red, black, gray a nd white color scheme: Classic, a b asic, clean g roup; St ar, a pl ayful line w ith t he mot if t hroughout; Tattoo, an urban group with a heart emblem on each piece; and Preppy, the highest-end line that features more fashion-driven pieces, such as a c able-knit cotton sweater with a detachable hood. With more than 30 pieces, the line i ncludes s hort- a nd lon g-sleeve one -pieces, s nap-up bodysuits, t wofers, w ide-leg y oga pa nts, t ees, pa jamas, leggings, piqué polo dresses, robes, socks, hats and more.

Lundmyr i s t ruly a one -stop s hop. I n a ddition t o apparel, t he b rand of fers p acifiers, le ather-bottom p rewalkers, maternity apparel, home linens, jewelry—and even i tems to d ress up t he f amily do g. “I t’s a b old a nd urban look for the modern family,” stated Carina Wood, founder o f T he S candinavian C ompany. W holesale prices r ange f rom $10 to $56 f or a pparel; s hoes a re $21.

For m ore i nformation, e -mail jessica@thescandico.com or visit www.lundmyr.com. —mel issa knif ic

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Inspired by the swimwear of de cades pa st, C ara Lewis d ebuts Townsend, Del.-based Ch ichanella Bella, a l ine f or you ng girls that offers femininity with the necessary c overage. W hen designing her swim c ollection, L ewis lo oked to her g randmother f or inspiration. “I i magined w hat b eing a c hild w as l ike then,” she s aid. “I t hought a bout what she was l ike a nd the way she lived her life.”

In a ddition to ’ 20s i nfluences, C hichanella B ella a lso takes a c ue f rom t he ’30s, ’40s a nd ’50s. T he l ine—for girls’ a ges 6 mo nths to 5 ye ars—features b oy s horts complete with ruching, f loral details a nd ruf fle e dges.

Although the line is girly, not everything is pink: Yellow, navy, turquoise and red also make an appearance. Sixteen suits a re av ailable i n t he i nitial c ollection. O ptions include t he Pi nk Taffy, a p ink o ne-piece w ith g reen stitching, crisscrossing back straps, and flower designs on the chest and bottom; the Lemon Drop, a b right yellow one-piece with bloomer bottoms that give the appearance of b eing a s eparate g arment; a nd t he L ifeguard L ulu, a red p olka dot t wo-piece w ith blo omer b ottoms, h androlled rosettes and a tube-style top with crisscross straps.

Each suit in the U.S.-made line is UV 50+, made of a n ylon-spandex blend . St yles up to si ze 3 h ave a sn ap bottom for easy diaper changes. Coordinating bonnets are also available. The line will expand to boys’ suits in 2011. Lewis is targeting high-end boutiques, resorts and cruise ships for distribution. Suits run $39 to $48 wholesale a nd h ats a re $18 to $ 22. V isit www.chichanellabella.com. —m.k.

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Market dates and events

JANUARY

Center & Sands Expo Las Vegas, NV (818) 379-9400 www.wsashow.com

31-Feb. 1

Bubble London 52 Upper St., Islington London, UK +44 (0) 1484 846069 www.bubblelondon.com

FEBRUARY 2-4

FFANY Hilton Hotel & FFANY member showrooms New York, NY www.ffany.org

3-4

Action Sports Retailer (ASR) San Diego Convention Center San Diego, CA (949) 226-5744 www.asrbiz.com

3-4

Gulf Coast Children’s Caravan Altel Arena Rooms 1A & 1B North Little Rock, AR (800) 666-4543

2-4

WSA Show Mandalay Bay Convention

5-7

Dixie Shows Mississippi Trade Mart

Jackson, MS (615) 665-0084

5-8

Denver Apparel & Accessory Market Denver Merchandise Mart Denver, CO (800) 289-6278 www.denvermart.com

6-9

Deerfield Children’s Show Embassy Suites North Shore Deerfield, IL www.midwestchildrensapparelgroup.com

Editor’s Note: Show details are subject to change. Please call the phone numbers or check our Web site for up-to-date schedules. Show sponsors may e-mail updates to nyeditorial@symphonypublishing.com.

Grand Opening Corporate Showroom in Charlotte N.C. Children’s Mart

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12/17/09 1:36:35 PM

G

THE GOODS

Wee Winter Woolies striped hat

Kangol beret

Zooni hat

La Folie trapper hat

Bundled Up Cold weather gear layers on the comfort and style.

Funky Junque head warmer 28

January 2010

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Toby NYC scarf

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Nomuvulas sweater

Aardvark scarf

Short Hat Co. knit hat

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Hartstrings ruffle cardigan

Country Kids tights

January 2010

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10 THE

COMMANDMENTS OF THE WELL-STOCKED GIFT SELECTION Sooner or later, virtually everyone needs to purchase a present for a child. While customer tastes may range from syrupy sweet to extremely eclectic, retailers can tick off certain qualities that make for a foolproof gift sale. Here, Earnshaw’s outlines exactly what thou shalt put on the shelves to ensure every customer discovers an item worth giving. BY LESLIE SHIERS

1. MAKE IT A SLAM-DUNK. Sure, there are products new parents, new babies and growing children truly need. But those items tend not to be the jawdroppers at the baby shower or birthday party. For consumers who pride themselves on giving the favorite gift of the day, make sure to stock products guaranteed to stop the show. “You want people to remember your gift,” said Chris Ziober, owner of Ella Bella, a boutique in Southlake, Texas. “No one cares about the Diaper Genie.

[Choose something that] will make people ooh and ahh.”

Maggie Zeff said tutus have become a top gift for girls at Ragamuffin, the Modesto, Calif., boutique she co-owns. In fact, Zeff noted anything related to dress-up or fantasy will light up the room, so she also stocks fairy wings, feather boas and other whimsical accessories. If Zeff gets a kick out of a product when she first spies it at market, she feels confident her customers will have a similar reaction—and the end user will, too. “If it makes you laugh or tickles you in some way, if it makes a cute sound or is so sweet they can’t stand it,” she mused, that’s the ticket for a rock-star gift.

Mud Pie

30

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House of Mongrel

2. STOCK RARE FINDS. There’s no point in offering what consumers can find down the block. Differentiation is always key, which means doing your homework and searching high and low for gifts that can’t be found at Target or Babies ‘R’ Us. Ziober sources items with a twist, such as unique, high-quality hair clips and headbands and super-soft, luxurious blankets.

Several boutique owners said they bring in giftable creations by local artists and under-the-radar designers to up the “special” factor—which will tempt consumers who don’t want to risk bringing a duplicate gift to the party. earnshaws.com

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Green Toys

Bows Arts

3. GIVE IT A NAME. A great gift has a personal touch, so what better way to let the recipient know it’s meant especially for them than adding their name or initials?

“Monogramming is huge right now,” Ziober declared, noting many of her customers routinely personalize blankets or burp sets to welcome a new baby while others are adding the detail to holiday apparel—even for boys. “It adds that extra bit of sentimentality to a gift,” added Lisa Butler, owner of Swaddle & Coddle, a Dallas-based e-tailer.

Another persuasive gift is one the parent or child can personalize his or herself. Whether a pillowcase or memory book that tweens can take to camp for their friends to autograph or a baby album or growth chart with spaces for parents to fill in as their child grows, presents that the end user can mark as his or her own set the stage for making memories. For more personalizable product ideas, turn to page 18.

4. OFFER AFFORDABLE OPTIONS. “[Gifts] have to be a sharp price point,” stressed Kendra Lewis, owner of the Bébé Babble boutique in Edina, Minn., who said her customers are seeking items under $50 of late. Stocking a range of price points is important, since consumers will be willing to spend more or less depending on their relationship to the recipient and the occasion. While grandparents have a sky’s-the-limit reputation when it comes to their children’s children, don’t overlook smaller items that could perk up the person scouring for goodie bag items, stocking stuffers, a big bro/big sis gift to take to the maternity ward or just a little something for the boss’ sister-in-law’s nephew.

“With the economy, it’s all about the price,” said Sherita Thomas, owner of Milk Money in Charlotte, N.C. While disposable incomes may have tightened, lower-priced options still can’t scream “cheap.”

David Hauck, co-owner of the Tadpole children’s store in Boston, noted the retail environment has motivated him to tweak his merchandise based on price while keeping the value equation steady.

“Where we [used to have] a $90 wood dump truck, we were able to find other cool dump truck options that are just as great in the $30 or $40 range,” he reported.

6. MAKE IT AN EASY PICKUP.For the

5. OFFER ITEMS WORTH SAVING. From silver rattles to heirloom quilts, retailers say keepsake items hook consumers who want their gift to tug on heartstrings. Butler of Swaddle & Coddle said these types of items—from handprint kits to memory boxes—are one of her favorite gift suggestions. “[They’re] something the recipient will never want to get rid of. It’s never going to the Salvation Army, it’s never going to the trash, but rather is something that will be handed down.” If an item evokes a sentimental response, it passes her litmus test, she explained.

New baby photo frames, first curl or tooth boxes and baby blankets (which may get carried all the way to college) are mainstays. Thomas said Elegant Baby photo albums do well at Milk Money, and she devotes a display area in her gift section to baby’s first cups, silverware, banks and other such items. While these products often play to traditional shoppers, some vendors have brought a modern aesthetic to the keepsake category, hooking a new consumer group by giving a trendier slant to goods that play to a parent’s emotions.

Child to Cherish

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customer who blows through your store en route to a party, products pre-packaged in gift-ready bags, boxes and wrapping can provide that extra incentive to buy. “Packaging is everything,” said Kristen Hughes, owner of Lullaby Baby in Columbia, Md. “Some companies do a really good job of packaging and others do not.”

Zeff of Ragamuffin added that while her store offers gift wrapping and thus the grab-and-go factor isn’t her No. 1 concern, great product packaging does go a long way when it comes to building instore displays. Boxed sock sets from Mud Pie and Trumpette are great pickBink Link me-up gifts, she said, especially in themes that suit various occasions—from holidays to girl/boy colorways to striped everyday styles. Likewise, matching raingear pieces are a simple way for customers to pick and choose according to their budget, and Zeff said holiday themes always make for a seasonally appropriate gift.

January 2010

31

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Kimochis Belle Pearl

7. KNOW WHERE YOUR BREAD IS BUTTERED. Try as you might, you can’t ignore baby pinks and blues.

Traditional gifts still have a place, both with conservative shoppers and one major consumer group: grandmothers. At Baby Willows Petit Boutique in Gardnerville, Nev., owner Judy Lynn Procaccini baits this bunch with beautiful jewelry (think crosses, lockets and pearls), brush-and-comb sets and christening gifts. While more modern boutiques might not concentrate on the older demographic, Procaccini has noticed it’s this group that buys often and early, so they’re well worth considering.

Ziober noted it behooves mod, edgy boutiques to keep some grandma-friendly basics on hand—not only in terms of color, but those staple products as well. “You don’t want someone to walk through your door and you don’t have a pink chenille blanket,” she mused, noting she likes classic designs from Little Giraffe and Baby Jar. These are no-brainer buys, she added. “You’ll always sell through them.”

8. DON’T UNDERESTIMATE NOVELTY ITEMS. Retailers also agree that fun, whimsical gifts are true hits—just think of the selling power inherent in a laugh-out-loud message tee or a new parent survival kit. Thomas of Milk Money said consumers want to give presents that will be memorable, and Baby Aspen’s doctor-themed layette sets are a favorite in her store. She noted it’s also easy to upsell a customer on small, inexpensive items—such as rattles or Bink Link’s wooden pacifier clips—to attach to the top of a wrapped present.

If customers want just a little something, Ziober will steer them toward funny message pacifiers or Pacimals’ pacifier/plush animal combos. Charm bracelets, children’s books, and big brother/sister T-shirts make for easy sibling gifts for the hospital- or party-bound.

And while Hauck said Tadpole tries to avoid “plastic-y, mass-produced stuff,” he noted novelty items such as classic Slinky toys and 99-cent erasers in animal and food shapes offer a low barrier to purchase and incite kids to come back for more.

THE LARGEST CHILDREN’S SHOE SHOW IN THE USA UNDER ONE ROOF

Back to School 2010 Market

GREAT NEW SHOW HOURS (3 Days)

THE RENAISSANCE HOTEL

Special Group Rate $99 for Retailers to Stay Call 866.234.2535, ask for Children’s Great Event Rate

THIS IS YOUR SHOW!!!

Website: www.tcgess.com

ER_01_Gift_feature_03.indd 32

12/17/09 2:31:00 PM

Manny & Simon

Plan Toys

9. APPEAL TO THE ECO-MINDED. “Some of our better-selling items are the eco-friendly type,” Hauck said. But while many people like to receive earth-friendly gifts, he noted greenness alone won’t sell an item; it must also be durable and coollooking. Tadpole sells Green Toys—a company that makes trucks, tools and play sets out of recycled milk jugs in California—because they pass the kid test and attract parents who insist on U.S.-made toys that offer a lot of value.

Lewis said organic Egg Baby and Nest items and eco-friendly push toys from Manny & Simon are doing extremely well at Bébé Babble. “People are being a lot more socially responsible,” she said. “They ask questions like ‘What is this fiber?’ and ‘How is this dyed?’” Just so long as the price of eco-friendly goods isn’t too far off of that of standard products, retailers affirm that the consumer interest is there.

ER_01_Gift_feature_03.indd 33

10. PLAY IT SMART. An educational aspect will woo consumers who are loathe to add yet another plaything to a child’s overflowing pile. Developmental toys, cloth books, classical music mixes, learning games, DIY kits for tweens—tons of products target those who want to give the gift of knowledge.

“People do like this aspect,” agreed Zeff, who carries alphabet puzzles, books and soft dolls that help children master buttons, zippers and other types of closures. Hauck lauds the PlanToys line of trucks, blocks and games as well as others that encourage kids to put their imagination to use.

After all, he said, these are gifts that a shopper can feel good about giving.

•

12/16/09 3:54:22 PM

THE

GREEN MACHINE Earnshaw’s spotlights the ways manufacturers are boosting sales with eco-responsible products and packaging.

Our April/May issue focuses on how the eco market continues to evolve past crunchy, bland items to fashion-forward collections. We’ll also highlight the ways in which companies are being mindful of the environment through their packaging and marketing choices.

Promote your environmentally friendly collection with an ad in Earnshaw’s and be featured in our green e-product showcase, which will be e-mailed directly to buyers.

Ad Space Closes: April 9 Contact: Rita Polidori O’Brien at (646) 278-1531 or robrien@symphonypublishing.com

ER_01_Eco_promo_02.indd 34

12/16/09 3:57:02 PM

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DEPARTMENT STORE

LOFTY ASPIRATIONS

Former department store buyers explain how vendors can make the dream of selling to the majors a reality. By Caletha Crawford

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eing ready to l aunch into the majors means more than pu tting to gether a c ohesive c ollection.

Compared to b outiques and mini-chains, department stores have more rigorous goals, expectations and procedures. Establishing lasting relationships based on mutual profit in this tier means having your f inancing, b ack-office o perations a nd p roduction in order. According to experienced buyers and c onsultants, t hese re alities a re of ten a h arsh w ake-up c all for emerging companies that have dreamt of being picked up by a department store for seasons.

It’s important to know what you’re getting into, said Kathleen

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Fasanella, author of “The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing” a nd f ounder of Fashion-Incubator.com. “ Small manufacturers a re not aw are of t he i nfrastructure of l arge re tail environments. I f a de partment s tore do esn’t p ick up t heir l ine, they t hink t he buyer do esn’t l ike i t, [when] i t’s u sually t hat t he manufacturer is not ready.”

Every m anufacturer s hould t ake s everal b asic a ctions b efore even a pproaching a de partment s tore, bu t of tentimes t he si mplest s teps a re overlo oked. Gr ace K ang, ow ner of N ew York’s Pink Olive baby, gift and home boutiques and a former buyer for Bloomingdale’s and Barneys, encourages designers to research the stores t hey’re pitching a nd f igure out how t hey f it into t he mix.

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“I a lways re commend vendo rs g o to t he s tore a nd lo ok a round and see t he vendor a ssortment a nd t hen pitch t he brands you would si t ne xt to,” s he s tated. K ang s aid s he w as s hocked to find t hat rou ghly 80 p ercent of t he t ime, vendo rs h ad ne ver even paid a v isit to her s tores’ sales f loors before scheduling a meeting with her.

Providing such a t argeted pitch is one way to c atch the attention of buyer s w ho t ypically sp end t heir d ays i n me etings w ith little time left to scout new lines. Once you’ve piqued their interest, howe ver, you m ust b e re ady. “ Make t hat f irst me eting or package really perfect,” advised Lorraine Beltran, a re tail consultant and former children’s wear buyer f or a b etter department store. Things to include, she noted, are line sheets, delivery dates, costs and CPSIA documentation. “The buyer should not have to pick up the phone to ask a question.”

Making a professional presentation will go a long way with a buyer w ho is probably a lready hesitant to wo rk w ith ne w suppliers. “It’s fun and exciting to s ee a ne w collection, but I wou ld go t wo, t hree or e ven four s easons b efore I ’d s top a nd t alk to a vendor I was interested in,” said Christie Cottier, a former vice president of children’s wear for Nordstrom and now the associate vice president of the kids’ division of It Jeans, adding that by that point, it was time to a sk the hard questions. “They have to h ave the infrastructure to support [department store] business.”

Kang also said that she was constantly searching trade shows for fresh products that offered the quality and execution that represented her store. However, she stressed, there’s a trade off when trying s omething ne w. “It’s a c ombination of w anting to b e t he first one to l aunch the line and wanting to avo id the risk if that vendor has issues,” she said.

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uyers s ay t he b iggest ob stacle to a dding a ne w vendor is that many fledgling companies lack an electronic d ata i nterchange ( EDI) s ystem, w hich a llows retailers a nd m anufacturers to e xchange i nformation about o rders, in voices, in ventory l evels a nd d elivery schedules. B ecoming c ompliant i s c ostly but ne cessary f or s elling de partment s tores. “ One of m y b iggest f rustrations i s t hat I’d f ind t hese g reat c ompanies, but t hey weren’t s ystem-ready,” noted L ynne G onsior, a f ormer buyer f or M arshall F ield’s a nd Dayton’s and current owner of Über Baby and Über Outlet in Minneapolis. “ Occasionally [the s tore] wou ld le t me do a 1 2store test without the vendor having to be EDI-compliant. But if the line took off, the vendor had to be prepared.”

But b efore a vendo r c an i mplement E DI, m any ot her b ack office s ystems a nd p rocedures must be i n p lace, Fasanella sa id.

“There are a lot of [EDI] precursors, like issuing good style numbers and creating bar codes for SKUs,” she noted. “Manufacturers need to learn about what they can do today to prepare.”

Being able to fulfill deliveries according to department stores’ strict guidelines is another hurdle for most vendors. Due to t he volume of product that moves from receiving to their sales floor, the majors have ver y particular rules for deliveries and packaging, which are outlined in new vendor packs. Straying from the guidelines w ill r esult i n t he d readed c hargebacks—penalties manufacturers accrue for infractions like shipping items late or

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boxing or tagging them incorrectly. Cottier’s advice is to hire an i n-house lo gistics p erson w ho h as wo rked w ith de partment stores before. Having this expertise aids vendors in delivering goods on time—a factor that Kang said is especially vital for department stores since “they have X amount of time to sell the merchandise for the month.”

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hough t he m ajors’ e x-buyers s aid t hey h ad a lot of latitude when it came to the type of product they brought i n, t hey a ll a greed t hat t he b ottom l ine i s, well, t he b ottom l ine, a nd m argins d rove t heir buy ing decisions. No matter how great the line, if it can’t turn a nd g enerate t he p rofit m argin a nd vol ume, i t’s not t he right product for the store, they agreed.

At re tail, s ell-through i s k ing. “People t hink t hat t he e xposure i s a mazing w hen you s ell a de partment s tore,” K ang s aid.

“But they have the misconception that they’re all set if they sell in.” B eltran c onfirmed t his s tatement: “ Manufacturers do n’t understand t hat t he language is different at de partment stores.

It’s all about sales success and sell-through percents—that is all integral to g etting t he re order. N ot to d ismiss how wo nderful the product is, but you have to deliver those numbers.”

And it’s not enou gh f or t he items to s ell; t hey must s ell at a price that protects the buyers’ margins. Before committing to an order, e very b uyer de signates a p rofit m argin fo r t hat p roduct, which he or she must maintain no matter what. If the store ends up having to goose sell-through with discounts, the vendors eat the retail price difference in the form of m arkdown money.

“Vendors g et ver y e xcited [ by department s tore orders], but it’s very e xpensive. You h ave to h ave d eep p ockets,” G onsior s aid.

“For example, if I m ark your goods down, instead of me lo sing the money, you need to recoup it for me so I stay on budget.”

Beltran s uggested vendo rs me et w ith buyer s a nd d ivisional merchandise ma nagers t o d iscuss ma rkdown st rategies bef ore products a re s hipped to avo id a ny s urprises. She a lso a dvised manufacturers to t ry to c ircumvent m arkdown money payouts by t rading ou t s low-moving p roduct f or i tems t hat m ay wo rk better in that particular market.

The ver y re al p ossibility t hat a vendo r w ill ne ed to s upply markdown money, comp freight co sts or provide co-op a dvertising support is the very reason Fasanella suggests that any vendor in terested in s elling t he ma jors lin es u p i ts f inancing long before the line catches a buyer’s eye. “It’s poor planning to go to a show and not be ready to move on the opportunity,” she stated, not ing t hat having t he f inancing in place is paramount before sell-in. “Vendors need to start establishing a relationship with a factor [a third-party financier] so they can at least say to the buyer that they’re on the path of being prepared.”

While it may seem like an impossible feat to form a successful p artnership w ith de partment s tores, t he s tores of fer t raining a nd do cumentation t hat de tail e xactly w hat’s e xpected.

Furthermore, buyers agreed that they were always willing to help ne w vendo rs g et up to sp eed. “I wou ldn’t w ant m anufacturers to fear working with department stores,” Beltran noted.

“It’s important for vendors to know that department stores want to meet them.”

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Clean Cuts School uniform silhouettes go preppy with a dash of geek-chic for Fall ’10.

By Angela Velasquez

Classroom School Uniforms

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IN TUNE WITH the preppy turn in sportswear, hints of a t imeless I vy L eague a esthetic re fine school u niforms f or f all. P leats a re s treamlined, dress re pertoires a re e xpanded a nd b rands d are boys to wear brights—just call it geek chic.

Ron J ohnson, p resident of M onrovia, C alif.based W yndam Br ands A pparel, m aker of T he Old S chool Br and, h as not iced t he “nerd f actor” finding i ts w ay i nto a ll sp ortswear. “I t’s o dd, but I s ee more a nd more 10- to 1 5-year-old b oys choosing t o w ear ar gyle an d t ies—not b ecause they h ave to, bu t b ecause t hey w ant to,” he s aid.

For e xample, a p rinted a rgyle p olo t he c ompany introduced l ast s eason d id e xtremely we ll at T he Old School Brand’s retail outlet, though Johnson said wholesale buyers weren’t as enthusiastic. The company i s t rying i t a gain f or F all ’ 10 i n t he hopes that retailers are now ready to channel their inner nerd.

Layering continues to be key for girls and boys, so m anufacturers a re f ocusing o n ne w s weater and cardigan designs. Andy Beattie, senior vice president of C hatsworth, C alif.-based St rategic Pa r tners, w hich m a nufactures C la ssroom School U niforms, s aid t he b rand i s a dding t wo cardigans f or g irls: a z ip-front ver sion w ith a jeweled ne ckline a nd a t raditional c able s tyle accented w ith a g rosgrain r ibbon a nd s atin bu tton p lacket. B eattie rep orted s trong s ales fo r t he company’s v arsity c ardigan f or b oys. Si milarly, Tavin Portman, managing director of New Yorkbased L ongstreet, w hich s ells u niforms u nder the G enuine S chool U niforms a nd U .S. P olo Association l abels, e xpects b oys to g ravitate to Genuine’s n avy s weater ve st. T he Old S chool Brand h as a lready s een s trength i n b oys’ s weater vests, e ven i n re d a nd g reen. “ Many s chools a re adding c olor t hrough la yering p ieces a nd o uterwear,” Johnson explained.

The j umper re vival a lso d ips i nto t he f all s ea-

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Dickies

son. B eattie a nticipates C lassroom’s latest j umper a nd d ress s tyles to resonate w ith p arents a nd g irls s eeking a t raditional f eminine lo ok.

The g rouping i ncludes a p olyester jumper w ith b ow p ocket de tails a nd f loral d ie-cut bu ttons and a n i nterlock d rop-waist ten nis d ress w ith c ap-sleeves.

Misty Otto, public relations d irector of W illiamson-Dickie Manufacturing Company, said Fort Worth, Texas-based Dickies is incorporating three new plaids in blue/red, blue/ navy a nd g reen/navy c olorways to i ts r ange of j umpers (as well as skirts and scooters). Old School Uniforms is carrying over a pl aid j umper, w hich J ohnson s aid i s p opular among young girls.

While j umpers re main a g o-to lo ok, m anufacturers a re also enthusiastic about skirts and scooters this season. Look for a t iered t will s kirt by Old S chool U niforms, a k neelength scooter with pocket detail from Genuine School Uniforms a nd C lassroom’s f lippy s wing s cooter—a s tyle Beattie calls a “twirly, fun, active piece.”

Along with sweater vests and plaid, school logos are making a c omeback—a touc h of s chool p ride de eply ro oted i n collegiate s tyle. J ohnson s aid he h as s een a s urge of i nterest f rom s chools a nd c onsumers. “L ogos a re e specially b ig on ou terwear,” he s aid. T he Old S chool Br and i s a dding an opt ion to i nclude s chool logos on t he c uffs of g irls’ le ggings. School logos are one way to d ifferentiate offerings in a category where manufacturers have little wiggle room due to s chools’ s trict re gulations a bout w aist hei ght a nd p ant leg length and width. Leggings are The Old School Brand’s answer to t he s kinny je an t rend. A s f or t he b oys, J ohnson said t heir t astes r arely c hange—particularly w hen it c omes to p ants—and T he Old S chool Br and i s not pl anning to update boys’ styles until Fall ’11, when an adjustable waist will b e i ntroduced. “ We w ant t he g arment to l ast a s lo ng as t he a djustment f eature, s o we’re do ing ou r re search,” he added.

Much of t he b oys’ s chool u niform bu siness i s re plenishment. H owever, c ompanies a re b ending to s leeker a nd more mo dern si lhouettes k ids c an re late to. Dic kies i s c ut-

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slimmer le g f or b oys w ith t he 8 73 s tyle. T he c ompany i s a lso older g irls,” ye t i t’s t he b rand’s u nisex p olo t hat ou tsells e verytaking down its Original 874 work pant, with an expansion of thing else. “It’s so easy for retailers to s tock,” Johnson explained. a k ids’ l ine c alled 8 74 f or b oys a nd 7 74 f or g irls. T he t ypically Classroom’s s hort- a nd lo ng-sleeve p iqué p olos re main a N o. 1 rigid g arments a re w ashed f or s oftness, ye t hold up a s we ll a s seller, bu t t he b rand i s e ager to de but t rendier s tyles. C lassroom their adult forerunners. Genuine School Uniforms is graduating is extending the length of girls’ polos by t wo inches and replacing from ple ated p ants, w hich P ortman e xplained jersey p olos w ith i nterlock f or b oys a nd g irls.

Even in school received a c hilly re ception, to f lat-front si lhou“Interlock has a nice flat finish and loftier fit and uniforms, style ettes f or b oys a nd g irls ( including f lat-front feel,” B eattie note d. “It’s a P olo [ Ralph L auren] Bermudas f or g irls a nd s horts f or b oys). “ Girls is always evolving. look, w hile ou r p iqué top s of fer t he L acoste want fashion—low rise, f lared leg. We’re doing look.” B eattie e xpects a ne w c ap-sleeve, f ourIt's up to us to as m uch a s we c an to s atisfy t heir re quest,” button stretch piqué polo for girls will be a “runtry and come up away strong seller.” Fashion jersey polos and Portman e xplained. C lassroom i s b anking o n flared-leg a nd c apri p ants m ade w ith a s tretch with some twists shirts wi th s atin-edge co llars co ntinue t o b e and a dding w aistband de tails to t he s tyles i n popular i tems f or G enuine S chool U niforms. each year to order to make the bottoms more casual and Portman p redicts a g irls’ woven top w ith a n keep kids happy. eyelet Peter Pan c ollar will a ttract c onsumers’ street-friendly. The company is also taking its “stodgy” two-pleat pant down to a more attracattention.

—Andy Beattie, Strategic Partners tive single pleat for a slimmer fit.

School u niform m anufacturers h ave ple n“As a s chool u niform b rand, you w ant to ty of people to please, and although fashion carry over as many styles as possible, but it is essential to tune-up shouldn’t i nterfere w ith e ducation, de signers a re u ltimately the f it a nd of fer a n evolutionary change rather than revolution- designers a nd re gularly re visit o ne p iece of a dvice t hey were ary,” B eattie s aid. M ost b rands a re c arrying over c lassic p olos taught in design school: Ma ke the wearer feel good. “You wa nt and woven s, c hoosing to re fresh s taple si lhouettes w ith f ashion to b e a s tyle le ader,” B eattie note d. “E ven i n s chool u niforms, details. Johnson said T he Old S chool Brand is continuing w ith style i s a lways e volving. I t’s up to u s to t ry a nd c ome up w ith a woven t unic top w ith t hree-quarter sleeves that is “great for some twists each year to keep kids happy.”

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Coming in February... ★ Style Outlook

★ Rep Rap

Your first look at the trends breaking and continuing for Fall ’10

The role multi-line sales reps play in a collection’s success

★ Made in the U.S.A.

★ Tween Fashion

How and why vendors are choosing to keep manufacturing on our shores

The looks for winter, plus how designers cater to the fickle tastes of girls and boys navigating the middle years

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Weatherproof coat, E-Land Kids polo and corduroy pants, Funky Junque gloves and stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hat and boots.

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D E E P FR E E Z E

Designers chisel away at girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; puffers and bubbles to reveal figure-flattering ruching, ruffles and novelty quilting while strong graphics skate along the surface of boysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; coats.

PH OTO GR A PH Y BY L I N DA FA RW E L L

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Add Down coat, Capelli New York hat, Appaman skirt, Country Kids tights and Toby NYC gloves.

Opposite page: London Fog by Amerex coat, Toby NYC gloves, skirt and leggings by CR Kids, Melton legwarmers and modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own boots.

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Hair and makeup by Tonya Noland for Mark Edward Inc. Fashion editor: Caletha Crawford.

Appaman jacket and dress, Melton tights, Capelli New York gloves and Josmo boots.

Opposite page: coat by KC Collection, Capelli New York hat and E-land Kids corduroy pants.

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Hartstrings polo and Monster Republic swim trunks.

Opposite: TwirlyGirl dress; headband by Pink Pewter; Eleven Collection shoes.

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Jacket by Weatherproof, dress and leggings by Plum Pudding, Capelli New York hat, Toby NYC gloves and Josmo boots.

Dress by Isabel Garreton; Meg Dana headband.

Opposite page: coat Opposite: Seven

by Me Room Too, polo and pants bydress.

Charlie Rocket, modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own boots.

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Jacket, button-down and pants by M4Hidary Funky coat, Flavours.

3 Pearls jeans, Opposite: Polo,Funky jacket and Junque headwrap, TobyK; shorts

by Kapital gloves, Collection. shoesNYC

by Eleven Ugg Australia boots.

Opposite page: KC Collection parka, Toby NYC gloves, KC Parker pullover and pants by It Jeans.

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RS

R E TA I L S P OT L I G H T

50 YEARS & COUNTING

Tot ’N Teen Shop’s one-stop-shop approach is just one of the store’s secrets of success. By Del-Ann Henry FOR  Y EARS, Tot ’ N Teen Shop h as b een a f ixture i n Paducah, Ky., serving generations of shoppers and their children with exemplary service and a breadth of product that mixes traditional and contemporary styling. Opened in April 1960 by Maud McClanahan, Tot ’N Teen Shop h as persevered through both e conomic an d i ndustry c hanges. Today, M cClanahan’s daughter P am M izell ow ns t he s tore, w hich d raws c ustomers from Illinois, Tennessee and Missouri.

Although her clientele ranges from housewives to working women a nd men, M izell s aid t hey a ll h ave o ne t hing i n c ommon: They are very into dressing their kids and are always willing to buy lo ng-lasting, q uality i tems. M any of her c ustomers grew up s hopping at Tot ’ N Teen Shop w ith t heir parents a nd are now parents themselves.

Originally lo cated o n a m ain s treet, Tot ’ N Teen Shop moved to a l arger location in a s hopping center in 1962, where better parking and a variety of neighboring stores draw visitors.

The store spans 3,000 square feet and features a glass storefront and c overed w alkways le ading to t hree s eparate en trances f or infants, girls a nd boys. Once inside, shoppers a re greeted with a b right, c olorful a nd f un c olor s cheme de signed to pu t t hem in a happy mood.

As its name suggests, Tot ’N Teen Shop of fers apparel ranging in size f rom infant to g irls’ 16 a nd boys’ 14. T hough retail experts of ten s ay a s tore m ust f ind a n iche a nd s tick w ith i t, Mizell d isagrees. “ I lik e d ifferent l ooks—I l ike f unky, I l ike s mocking. We ha ve a store f ull o f m erchandise.

That w ay, w hen w e g et s ome people who only like one type of look, we’ve got it.”

Despite t he w ide a ssortment, T ot ’ N T een Shop has so me d efinite be st-selling c ategories, na mely la yette a nd g irls’ 4 to 6 X. K issy Kissy, Will’beth, and Le Top are b aby f avorites, w hile l ittle g irls’ b estsellers i nclude

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Flowers by Zoe, Haven Girl and Peaches ‘n’ Cream.

Mizell f inds it tougher to move g irls’ sizes 7 to 16, which she believes is due i n part to more competition from chain stores as well a s older g irls’ de sire f or n ame b rands. Bu t her b oys’ we ar turns s lower f or a d ifferent re ason: “People s hop d ifferently f or boys,” s he s aid. “I t’s not a s m uch of a n e vent. T hey o nly buy what they need, when they need it.” Still, there are some definite favorites in the Tot ’N Teen Shop b oys’ department, with highlights including Hartstrings, Mis-Tee-V-Us and Wes & Willy.

The shop also carries extras like picture frames, plush items, blankets and bows, and Mizell has expanded some departments based o n c onsumer de mand. “ We do n’t h ave a n en tire s hoe department, bu t we c arry mo re s hoes now t han e ver b efore,” she n oted. “ Our c ustomers wa nted s izes a nd c olors t hat w ent with the outfits… It’s a niche that we could fill.”

Though M izell re gularly a dvertises i n t he lo cal ne wspaper as we ll a s o n te levision a nd r adio s tations, s he b elieves t he wonderful c ustomer s ervice her s taff p rovides i s w hat k eeps customers c oming back t ime a nd t ime a gain. T he staff strives to know each customer and remember his or her preferences, even giving them advance notice when their favorite brands are delivered. T he store a lso of fers a b aby re gistry, f ree g ift w rapping, hospital deliveries a nd a pl ay a rea to k eep k ids occupied while moms shop. “We spoil our customers… We always try to give them what they want,” Mizell said.

Though p lans h ave y et t o be finalized for the shop’s 50th anniversary, Miz ell h opes t o hold a ye arlong c elebration beginning in Ap ril. In t he meantime, she plans to remain focused o n w hat s he c onsiders to be the key to the store’s success: “It wasn’t a hobby for [me or my mot her]. We’ve a lways worked i n t he s tore, a nd i t’s rare t hat I ’m n ot h ere. W e always listen to our customers.

You c an’t do t hat i f you’re not in the store.”

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