INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW
JUNE 2010 $5.00
Classical Note
Traditional Brands Strike a Chord The Right Stuff Accessories Shoppers Crave Refined Design Joan Calabrese Finds Success with Mon Cheri Property Grab Licensing World Seeks Newness
CHILDREN'S CLUB
AUGUST 1.2.3 2010
PIER 94 NYC
RETAILER/BUYER REGISTRATION : WWW.ENKREGISTRATIONS.COM CHILDRENSCLUB@ENKSHOWS.COM WWW.ENKSHOWS.COM/CHILDRENSCLUB AN ENK INTERNATIONAL EVENT T.212.759.8055 F.212.758.3403
Get Noticed
Advertise your kids’ footwear brand in the Spring 2011 edition of Little Steps magazine. Gain exposure to more than 30,000 buyers through the combined circulation of Footwear Plus and Earnshaw’s magazines plus bonus distribution at WSA, FFANY, ENK Children’s Club, Children’s Great Shoe Event & KidShow.
Ad close: July 6, 2010 Contact: Rita Polidori O’Brien robrien@symphonypublishing.com 800.731.5852 x31 3
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Rita Polidori O'Brien Publisher Caletha Crawford Editor in Chief Nancy Campbell Creative Director EDITORIAL Leslie Shiers Managing Editor Melissa Knific Features Editor Angela Velasquez Associate Editor Jacqueline Micucci Contributing Editor Kionna Lipscomb Editorial Intern
06 2010 FAS H I O N 32
U & ME Classic gets a colorful twist for back-toschool with age-appropriate, kid-friendly attire.
48
The Look: Ooh, La La! Parisian themes provide a little ‘je ne sais quoi’ for fall.
CREATIVE Trevett McCandliss Art Director ADVERTISING Erwin Pearl Vice President of Sales Caroline Diaco Special Accounts Manager Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager Bryn Davies Sales Associate Alex Marinacci Account Executive Patrick Thomas Sales Representative, Canada Maureen Johan Classified Sales
F E AT U R E S
20
Cashing In the Blue Chips Vendors and retailers have been betting on evergreen properties, but economic improvement should make fresh licensed brands worth wagering on.
24
Hidden Gems From hair bows to baseball caps, retailers reveal their top accessories and provide insight into how they keep the category booming.
28
Fancy That After years designing her couture-quality dresswear label, Joan Calabrese has found a wider audience through her special-occasion collaboration with Mon Cheri.
ADMINISTRATION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager Julie Gibson Webmaster CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 8 West 38th Street, Suite 201 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 nyeditorial@ symphonypublishing.com Circulation Office 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@ symphonypublishing.com CORPORATE Symphony Publishing NY Corporate Headquarters 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Sid Davis, Group Publisher
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N E WS 7 9
Apparel Licensing CO LU M N S
12 14 16 17 18 42
What’s Selling Pampered Unwrapped Kicks 4 Kids Coast 2 Coast Retail Profile I N E V E RY I SS U E
6 11 47 47
Editor’s Letter Calendar Where to Buy Ad Index
On the cover: Dress by Secret Wishes; Bows Arts hair clip. This page: Vineyard Vines twofer top and corduroy pants; Eleven Collection shoes. Photography by Augustus Butera
EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly (except for bi-monthly April/May and November/December editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 8 W. 38th Street, Suite 201, New York, NY 10018-0150. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2010 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
The Downturn’s Upside
Finding winning formulas to pull ahead of the pack.
EDITOR’S LETTER
We’ve all heard that sluggish economies make for Ď€fertile ground for some sectors (booze and junk food, in particular) but you don’t have to look that far in the children’s market to spot areas of growth. The winners, relatively speaking, are companies whose products represent the most value to consumers: great design at a fair price, quick transformation with little investment and/or timeless styles that last forever. This more-for-less ideal is one that most wholesalers have been aspiring to nail, and as many retailers tell it, the Joan Calabrese for Mon Cheri collection is the definition of value. Known for covetable feminine frocks, the designer’s hefty price tags left many shoppers out in the cold—until, that is, she hooked up with bridal company Mon Cheri. Together, they’re able to provide special occasion wear with oomph that doesn’t cause sticker shock. In “Fancy Thatâ€? (page 28), Mon Cheri owner Steve Lang and Calabrese discuss the dresswear market and their unique take on glamorizing little girls. While moms might hem and haw over what they deem unnecessary apparel purchases, they’ve proven much more willing to snap up an accessory (or two or three) if the price and styling are right. These little add-ons
provide just enough kick for a quick retail therapy buzz without the guilt. Plus, new bows and bags make the same old, same old ensemble seem new. In “Hidden Gems� (page 24), retailers cite the accessories their shoppers dig most. Though they welcome the bottomline boost, buyers say the constant hunt for the next head-turning item can be tiring. And some lamented a dearth of masculine accessories, since boys have been increasingly responding to hats, backpacks and shoes, despite the limited options. Retailers tiring of the stale slate of enterainment brands on offer since the economy tanked can be hopeful for new movement. In “Cashing in the Blue Chips� (page 20), licensing insiders predict changes in their market segment. Instead of reflexively ordering product from the sequel du jour, they believe buyers will be more willing to take chances on up-and-coming properties as the product pipeline runs dry. That’s good news for exhibitors at this month’s Licensing Expo, where properties will vie to become the next evergreen powerhouse. CALETHA CRAWFORD Editor in Chief
))$1< Ä&#x192; -XQ %RRWK _ ))$1< Ä&#x192; $XJ :6$ 6KRZ Ä&#x192; $XJ _ $WODQWD 6KRH 6KRZ Ä&#x192; $XJ 0$*,& 6KRZ Ä&#x192; $XJ
apparel news
NEW LINES
Farmerkids Organics
Violet Gumdrop
EZ Sox
Bringing a little bit of country life to children 3 months to 6 years is Farmerkids Organics. The appliquéd tees and one-pieces are manufactured Stateside in sweatshopfree environments. The garments are made of organic cotton and appliqués are sewn on with organic cotton thread whenever possible. Graphics range from garden-themed designs (a shovel with the words “Dig It”) to animals (an owl with “Hoot”) to alphabet phrases (“B is for Barack”). Farmerkids Organics also offers hats, bibs and burp cloths. Prices run $9.50 to $17 wholesale. Personalization is available on some items. Call (212) 473-3616 or visit www.farmerkids.com. • Costume jewelry manufacturer BeJe Designs launches BeJe Girl for girls 3 years and up. With sterling silver and cubic zirconium used throughout, the line offers the look of fine jewelry at affordable prices. Bracelets, rings, earrings and necklaces ($8 to $48 wholesale) feature designs ranging from pink bows and butterflies to sparkling crowns and hearts. Call (732) 982-1232 or visit www.bejegirl.com. • Young girls can express their friendships with “Bestie” necklaces from Violet Gumdrop. Each set ($10 wholesale) comes with two necklaces of coordinating treat charms meant for best friends to share. Themes include cake and ice cream, cupcakes and chocolate milk, coffee and doughnuts, milk and cookies, peanut butter and jelly, and more. Call (248) 770-8116 or visit www.violetgumdrop.com. • Designed as a learning tool and confidence-builder, EZ Sox help little ones dress themselves. The patent-pending design features socks with tabs that allow children to pull them on with ease. The double-reinforced loops give tiny fingers a strong grip. The socks—for ages 2 to 5—are offered in solids or animal-themed designs such as rabbits, frogs, pigs, dogs, bears and cats. Each pair wholesales for $2.75. Call (212) 465-7412 or visit www.ezsox.com. • Focusing on little guys, Babysusu mixes classic and modern details for a luxurious yet playful appeal for boys’ sizes newborn to 4. All natural fabrics like cotton, cashmere and wool are used for the pieces, which include a paisley Mandarin
apparel news
Cricket Hosiery Celebrates a Quarter-Century of Style Industry veteran Vic Mulaire celebrates the 25th anniversary of his company Cricket Hosiery, maker of the TicTacToe brand. He noted that the company’s longevity has stemmed from its ability to keep reinventing itself. “People look to us as the leader in graphics,” Mulaire said, adding that the company also pioneered nonslip and seamless toe socks. He also cites the Internet for changing business, especially overseas sales: The company sells to stores in more than 15 countries and plans to further expand its reach. And recently, the label launched organic items (first in baby in 2008, followed by larger sizes), responding to the demand for eco-friendly accessories. In recognition of its milestone, Cricket Hosiery is offering 25 percent off a different category every other month. Mulaire expects the company will continue to thrive through new ideas, which is a must as it creates between 200 and 300 new styles each season. Visit www.crickethosiery.com.
Jamari Introduces Barbara Farber Brand to U.S. Market Jamari International delivers the Dutch special occasion brand Barbara Farber Gold, which outfits girls 12 months to 14 years. Designed for classy little ladies, the label draws from the latest fashions, adding a strong dose of glitter and glamour to apparel perfect for weddings, communions and other dress-up events. The pre-Spring ’11 pieces play with proportion via enlarged details, such as a petal skirt resembling a huge flower sprinkled with tiny, delicate rosettes. Look for a wide assortment of full and flowy dresses and skirts that run from traditional styling to cutting-edge fashion in soft whites plus neutral silver and bronze accents. Call Jamari at (212) 695-1733.
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J U N E 2 0 1 0 • E A R N S H AW S . C O M
NEW LINES
Cutie Pa Tutus
Bequita
collar three-button tunic, a striped knit sweater with elbow patches, pocket thermal tees, elastic-waist khakis, grandpa cardigans and more. Prices run $12 to $56 wholesale. Call (917) 5350665 or visit www.babysusu. com. • Bequita introduces an apparel line that offers a modern interpretation of classic Chinese styling. Designed in Suzhou, China, the line features hand-drawn prints, handmade knot closures, Mandarin collars and trims inspired by the Yuan and Qing dynasties. Available for boys and girls 3 months to 6 years, the collecation is made with organic cotton, low-impact dyes and water-based inks. Maroon and peach serve as the base colors, accented by teal, red and black. Wholesale prices are $6 to $34. Visit www. bequita.com. • Cutie Pa Tutus delivers a new take on ballet skirts. The pompomfilled tutus ($19 to $26.60 wholesale) for newborns
to size 8 are accented with glittery charms and printed ribbon befitting a range of fun, girly themes. Motifs include the hot pink Diva with mini high-heel shoe and lipstick charms, a Cinderellainspired light blue design, and the red and black Baby Ladybug with polka dot grosgrain ribbon detail on the waist. The brand also offers coordinating tee and tutu sets ($31 to $33) as well as a boy-friendly superhero range of monogrammable one-pieces, boxers and capes ($14 to $23). Call (843) 2708474 or visit www.cutiepatutus.com. • Royal Hampton launches a casual, high-end line comprising all-natural materials such as wool, cotton, silk, Tencel, bamboo and cashmere. Available for boys and girls 3 months to 12 years, the shabby-chic brand features one-pieces with a polo or ruffled collar, tees, loose-fitting pants, denim leggings, grandpa cardigans, outerwear, a flutter-sleeve
dress, a shift dress, a feminine vest with two ruched pockets, a gathered skirt and more. Royal Hampton’s palette is a rainbow of colors: Moss green, lavender, navy, pink, blue, purple, orange, charcoal and red. Wholesale prices are $13 to $120. Call (914) 244-8998 or visit www. royalhampton.com. • 2 Lulas bows a collection of handmade clothing and accessories in playful prints. The line for boys and girls ages 0 to 12 includes short- and long-sleeve one-pieces and tees with fabric appliqués, such as an elephant, an owl and a peace sign; a peasant dress with mixed fabrics; a ruffled pant and tee set; and a swing top with bloomers. The company also offers changing pads, blankets, bibs, burp cloths, diaper bag sets, hooded towels, plush toys and more, plus a range of holiday-themed items. For wholesale pricing, call (512) 771-3207 or visit www.2lulas.com.
licensing news
BRANDS ON TAP
The 30th annual Licensing International Expo kicks off June 8 in its new home: Las Vegas. For three days, the Mandalay Bay Convention Center will house attendees from around the world looking for exciting new properties and product lines set to catch fire at retail. After a period of safe buying in which retailers have largely reserved shelf space for brands with an established track record, Ira Mayer, president and publisher of The Licensing Letter, said the time is ripe to explore new avenues. “There’s always room for a new, hot property,” he noted. “Something will touch people and get them excited. And that is the lifeblood of all business.” Here’s an overview of what properties licensing companies will be highlighting at the show.
New Imports
BBC Worldwide’s TV series “3rd & Bird!,” which has proven a hit in the U.K., will join the Playhouse Disney block in early 2011. Produced by Little Airplane Productions, the series features colorful photopuppetry animation and entertains children ages 3 to 5. Fisher-Price holds the global license for preschool and toddler toys, which launched in the U.K. this
spring. Partners are sought to support the property in the U.S. market. For details, call BBC Worldwide at (212) 705-9487. • The Sharpe Company is introducing a new worldwide publishing program for the baby-oriented publishing property Humphrey’s Corner, with story, pop-up and activity books coming out from Igloo Books Ltd. With the books boosting awareness of the brand and central elephant character, the licensing agent is seeking U.S. licensees to create apparel, bedding, plush lines and more. For information, call (310) 545-6839. • Classic Media’s animated preschool series “Tinga Tinga Tales” is set to premiere in the U.S. in 2011 on Playhouse Disney. Inspired by African folk tales, the storylines center on how children’s favorite animals came to be. The series premiered in February in the U.K., where toy, book and apparel licensees have already kicked off the merchandising program. Classic Media has signed Bandai as master toy partner and Grosset & Dunlap/Penguin Group as master publishing partner. The company is currently seeking an apparel partner to support the series’ launch in the States. Call (212) 659-3037.
Corporate News The Power Rangers are returning to their leader. Saban Capital—a group created by the Power Rangers’ original developer, Haim Saban— recently acquired the property from The Walt Disney Company and Toei Entertainment. Saban is partnering with Nickelodeon on 20 new episodes of the “Power Rangers” set to air in 2011. In addition, past episodes will launch on Nicktoons later this year. Call (310) 557-5100. • Footwear brand and marketing behemoth Skechers has entered the entertainment business by founding a Skechers Entertainment division, a move reportedly sparked by a promotional comic strip the company created for its product packaging. The creative spawned an animated series, “Zevo 3,” which features teen characters transformed into superheroes by a genetic enhancing compound. For licensing information, call (310) 318-3100.
On the Slate Disney Consumer Products (DCP) has opportunities available for lines to support the new “Winnie the Pooh” film and “The Muppets,” both out in 2011, as well as the 3-D film “Monsters Inc. 2,” which will hit theaters in November 2012. In addition, Disney and Pixar have scheduled the release date for “Brave” (formerly titled “The Bear and the Bow”) for June 2012. The Scotland-set, computer-animated 3-D film stars the impetuous Princess Merida (voiced by Reese Witherspoon), a lover of archery who makes a reckless choice that leaves her struggling between the forces of nature, magic and a dark ancient curse. For licensing information, call DCP at (818) 544-0000. • Nickelodeon unveils two new TV shows. A live action tween show, “Big Time Rush” stars four boys from Minnesota whose band gets discovered by a record label. Meant to demonstrate to kids that it takes work to realize your dreams, the series also shows that fame isn’t all fun and games. With music as a central theme, Nickelodeon plans to launch a full line of fan merchandise. Nick’s second new show, “Team Umi Zoomi,” caters to preschoolers, illustrating how math can help solve everyday problems. The show focuses on geometric shapes, patterns, measurements and counting, and the entertainment company foresees consumer products that fall in line with that aspect. For more information, call Nickelodeon Consumer Products at (212) 846-4082. • The Jim Henson Company presents “Wilson & Ditch: Digging America,” a Web platform produced for PBSKids.org starring two comical gophers who drive a greenpowered van across the country to learn about American culture, history and geography; and The Possibility Shop, an original broadband series created for Disney Online that offers an array of ideas for family-friendly art projects and activities. The company is currently seeking licensing partners. Call (323) 802-1500.
E A R N S H AW S . C O M • J U N E 2 0 1 0 9
licensing news
Left: Lauren Faust, creator of Milky Way & the Galaxy Girls. Below, left to right: The Skrumps; Clifford the Big Red Dog.
Now Selling The Dollie & Me brand, which encompasses girls’ fashion and matching 18-inch dolls, had a soft launch in 2009, and now Kahn Lucas is boosting its selfowned property with a new collection aimed at department stores. The company is producing dresses, sportswear, sleepwear and outerwear for girls sizes 2T to 14 that come with matching togs for their Rachel, Ava and Gabriella dolls (sold separately) created by the renowned Alexander Doll Company. The Kahn Lucas clothing will retail for $6.99 to $80; the dolls are $29.95 each. Kahn Lucas is adding licensees for accessory products for future seasons—look for dress-up items, hair accessories, jewelry, toys, handbags, travel bags and more. For further details and wholesale pricing, call (212) 244-4500. • Angelina Ballerina takes center stage at Topsville, which was recently named the dancing mouse’s U.S. master apparel licensee by HIT Entertainment. In line with the book and TV character’s love of movement, the company has produced dancewear, tees, apparel sets and coordinated separates for Fall ’10. Topsville plans grow the line through additional retailers for Spring ’11. The collection features designs based on Angelina’s new CG-animated look seen in the TV show “Angelina Ballerina, The Next Steps.” Contact Topsville at (212) 736-6398. • Skechers USA has tapped French Craft Leather Goods Co. to market a line of leather goods and accessories for children and adults. The company is producing trend-
driven belts, buckles, wallets and coin purses meant to complement the footwear brand that will hit retail this month. Look for full-grain and split leather, suede, cotton and nylon materials and contemporary embellishments such as zinc-, steel- or brasscast buckles. The line will sell through independent, specialty and sporting goods stores in the U.S. and Canada. For details, call (800) 541-0088. • Precious Moments has selected A.D. Sutton & Sons as licensee for baby gifts spanning packaged layette, picture frames, photo albums and banks. The line, which features the property’s signature artwork and messages of loving, caring and sharing, is targeted at mass retailers and gift stores. The collection retails for $9.99 to $17.99; for wholesale prices, call (212) 695-7070. Precious Moments Inc. has also tapped Prestige Toy to create plush items and baby gifts, which wholesale for $10 each and are set to hit retail next month. Call Prestige Toy at (212) 736-8977. • Kids Republic has produced a sportswear collection for boys sizes 2 to 20 featuring DC Comics characters such as Batman, Superman and Flash, under license from Warner Brothers. The line includes cut-and-sew fashion tees, woven shirts, denim and hoodies bearing intricate graphics incorporating music/concert themes, military iconography and more. The collection wholesales for $12 to $29 and will sell through major department stores and specialty retailers. Call (323) 235-0444.
From left: Topsville’s Angelina Ballerina apparel; Batman tee from Kids Republic; Dollie & Me set by Kahn Lucas.
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J U N E 2 0 1 0 • E A R N S H AW S . C O M
Proven Properties Scholastic Media is looking ahead to 2012, when Clifford the Big Red Dog will celebrate 50 years in publishing. Categories open for anniversary licensing include apparel, toys, bedding, home décor, and games and puzzles. Call (212) 389-3900. • The Jim Henson Company will debut several new properties at Licensing Show, including The Skrumps, based on collectible toys by artist John Chandler that feature irreverent rock star hopefuls and targeted at tweens and teens. For licensing opportunities, call (323) 802-1500. • Art Impressions, which manages the Skelanimals brand, announces new developments for Milky Way & the Galaxy Girls. The tween property—created by Lauren Faust, the executive producer of the new My Little Pony series—launched
last December at FAO Schwarz via a line of dolls from Yottoy. The Galaxy Girls are a group of unique intergalactic teens who each embody self-affirming behaviors and reach for their goals. The stars of the recently released book “Milky Way & the Galaxy Girls: What Planet Are You From?,” will be featured in a youth sleepwear collection by Komar, which is currently in development. Contact Komar at (212) 725-1500. For licensing information, call Art Impressions at (818) 591-0105. • Now a video game classic at 25 years, Tetris makes its Licensing Expo debut this month, aiming for a fresh push in merchandising. Apparel and accessories lines for all ages are a priority for licensing rights manager Blue Planet Software. For details, call (415) 377-2195.
CALENDAR
MARKET DATES & EVENTS
JUNE 3-6
Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com
6-8
Women’s & Children’s Chicago Apparel Market The Merchandise Mart Chicago, IL (800) 677-6278 www.mmart.com
8-10
FFANY Hilton Hotel & FFANY member showrooms New York, NY www.ffany.org
8-10
24-26
Licensing International Expo Mandalay Bay Convention Center Las Vegas, NV (888) 644-2022 www.licensingexpo.com
Pitti Immagine Bimbo Fortezza da Basso Florence, Italy www.pittimmagine.com
10-13
JULY
14-17
TransWorld’s Jewelry, Fashion & Accessories Show Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Rosemont, IL (800) 323-5462 www.transworldexhibits.com
Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart, Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3600 www.californiamarketcenter.com
23-29
Dallas Total Home & Gift Market Dallas Market Center, Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com
8-11
13-19
CMC Gift & Home Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3600 www.californiamarketcenter.com >13
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WHAT’S SELLING RETAILERS IN UPSTATE NEW YORK SHARE HOW POP CULTURE INFLUENCES THEIR SELECTIONS. BY KIONNA LIPSCOMB
PUMPKINS
Williamsville, N.Y.
Gigi’s Apparel
Sugar Plum
BLISSETT’S Although owner Maggie Schwartz is aware of the influence pop culture has on her consumers, she does not let it completely define her 800-square-foot boutique, where pastel décor and stenciled spirals greet customers. “Your business has to reflect who you are. I feel that my store has a pretty good reputation [for having] respectful clothing,” she noted. “With a small business like mine, I am able to pick what’s tasteful while keeping in mind celebrity influences.”
INFANT/TODDLER Kate Mack: bathing suits embellished with 3-D flowers
Medina, N.Y.
Girl & Co.
j
j
Deux Par Deux: brightly colored bubble sundresses
jRabbit Moon: printed swing dresses jIsabella & Chloe: polka dot sundresses
Le Top: solid capri pant and shirt j sets; printed sundresses
jCharlie Rocket: trendy T-shirts with peace signs and guitars
BOYS 4 TO 7 E-Land Kids: striped polo shirts
jElaine et Lena: chocolate brown and orange sundresses
j Petit Lem: cotton pajamas with j dinosaur and hockey prints
KAT’S MEOW Blissett’s has been servicing generation after generation since 1941. Owner Jaye Sullivan considers it her job to be aware of what’s going on outside of her four walls. “Things change quickly. What children are wearing has a lot to do with pop culture and products,” she said. Beyond apparel, which spans infant wear to flower girl dresses, Sullivan stocks a variety of gifts and steers customers to the wide collection of baby record books and initialed piggy banks that have emerged as favorites.
Williamsville, N.Y.
Haven Girl: sequined black boleros, j charm school necklace dresses and T-
shirts, and tie-dye dresses with heart and charm patterns
jGirl & Co.: paisley-print shirts C’est La Vie: screenprinted T-shirts; j solid tops and khaki bottoms j jE-Land Kids: navy blue argyle vests GlobalTex: solid and assorted tees with j a guitar print
j
John Deere: green and yellow hooded sweatshirts
Mud Pie: separates in hot pink or blue with lime accents
j
jGood Lad: plaid short sets
GIRLS 4 TO 6X Isabella & Chloe: polka dot sundresses
jKiddo: tuxedo dresses with ruffles and knitted sundresses with jewel
ACCESSORIES/FOOTWEAR Pediped: floral or white Mary Janes; denim sneakers
j
Lilly Pulitzer: bubble sundresses with floral or patchwork prints
j
Beeko: tonal brown and gray leather lace-up sneakers
j
Elaine et Lena: chocolate brown and orange sundresses
—
GIRLS 7 TO 14
embellishments at the neckline
jPumpkins jBlissett’s jKat’s Meow
12 EARNSHAW’S • JUNE 2010
j
Naturino: sparkly silver, brown and raspberry Mary Janes M3 Girl Designs: interchangeable bottle j cap necklaces in tie-dye patterns and “Twilight” themes
Betty Ann Headwear: solid baseball j caps; white and pink baby bonnets GIFTS
BOYS 8 TO 14 Calvin Clothing: navy blue wool suits
Kaiya Eve: chocolate brown dresses with a dusty rose pettiskirt tutus
j
Naturino
Swanky, fun and whimsical is how owner Nicki Minasidis defines the atmosphere of her 1,200-square-foot storefront. Minasidis vows to supply the best mix of the age-appropriateness of European wear and the trendiness seen in contemporary apparel Stateside. “European [fashion] is dainty, flowy and childish, while domestic lines offer eye-catching silhouettes and cuts,” she said. She cited Haven Girl as a line that hits the mark, allowing kids to dress like their celebrity idols but in a sweet manner.
j j
jJamie Rae Hats: solid headbands and hats with a silk flower j
Gigi’s Apparel: solid headbands and hats with a silk flower
j
High IntenCity: charm bracelet and necklace sets
j
Mud Pie: cotton sock booties with whimsical accents CR Gibbons: baby record books and j photo albums
jDouglas Company: stuffed toys
CALENDAR
MARKET DATES & EVENTS
JULY 14-21
Atlanta International Gift & Home Furnishings Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com
31-Aug. 2
Playtime New York 82 Mercer New York, NY (212) 925-6349 www.playtimenewyork.com
AUGUST 1-3
ENK Children’s Club Pier 94 New York, NY (212) 759-8055 www.enkshows.com
2-6
Vegas Kids World Market Center Las Vegas, NV (702) 599-3064 www.vegaskidslv.com
2-6
Gift + Home World Market Center Las Vegas, NV (702) 599-3064 www.giftandhomelv.com
3-5
FFANY Hilton Hotel & FFANY member showrooms New York, NY www.ffany.org
7-10
Deerfield Children’s Show Embassy Suites North Shore Deerfield, IL www.midwestchildrensapparelgroup.com
8-11
LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3600 www.californiamarketcenter.com
12-15
Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com
7-9
Kidz at Stylemax The Merchandise Mart, Chicago, IL (800) 677-6278 www.kidzatstylemax.com
Editor’s Note: Show details are subject to change. Please call the phone numbers or check our website for up-to-date schedules. Show sponsors may e-mail updates to nyeditorial@ symphonypublishing.com.
PAMPERED BABY PRODUCTS & NEWS Bholu’s handmade felt monkey
Twirling top by P’kolino
Lilliputiens’ interactive book
Texture toy by Allen Ave. Designs
Calisson’s vanillaflavored teether
Wooden rattle by Haba USA
Wooden ring by PlanToys
Plush dog by Jellycat
International Playthings pull toy
SHAKE, RATTLE & ROLL
Boutique toys brighten up the selling floor. By Angela Velasquez 14
J U N E 2 0 1 0 • E A R N S H AW S . C O M
NEW LI N E S
Goldbug Bows Playwear Goldbug is launching Playette by Goldbug, the brand’s first foray into infant and toddler dress-up wear that can be worn in and out of the playroom, at Target this summer. “With the recent trend of ‘boutique’ items like tutus moving into specialty and mass chains, we felt this was a good area of opportunity to grow the Goldbug brand,” explained Goldbug communications director Katie Stanford. The dance-themed collection for girls includes a pink leotard, pink and purple tutus, legwarmers, ruffled tights and fashion hair accessories. Touches of glitter and satin add sparkle and shine. Retail prices start at $3. Goldbug also plans to add wings, tiaras and wands and reach other retailers with other versions of the line. For wholesale prices call (800) 9429442 or visit www.goldbuginc.com.
å Swaddle connoisseur Aden + Anais has added a 7x7-inch security blanket to its range of muslin products. The soft, simple, lightweight soothing blankets are sold as packs of two ($10 wholesale) in modern boy, girl and gender-neutral prints. Themes include pink, blue and green stars; pink butterflies and fairies; purple monkeys; aqua cars and elephants; and yellow giraffes. The company’s CEO and founder Raegan Moya-Jones also recently debuted a book, “Swaddle Love,” a practical guide to the swaddling tradition filled with advice, techniques and beautiful photography. The book wholesales for $10. Call (718) 801-8441 or visit www.adenandanais.com.
Zutano Steps Into Footwear Through a new partnership with United Legwear & Underwear, Zutano expands its hosiery program and launches into infant and toddler footwear for the first time. The collection will incorporate the brand’s key prints and color sensibility designed to appeal to its existing boutique customers as well as footwear retailers. “[The deal] really allows us to expand our product offerings to make a full outfit statement and full branded experience,” stated Zutano president Michael Belenky. The line is scheduled to bow for Spring ’11. Call (212) 391-4143 or visit www.unitedlegwear.com.
¢ Baby Jakes has strollers covered with water- and odorresistant stroller liners ($28.50 to $32.50 wholesale) that easily slip on and off for easy cleaning and double as on-the-go changing pads. Fun styles include animal prints, polka dots, damask and a range of solids that coordinate with the company’s line of satin ruffled blankets. Call (214) 742-6111 or www.southernfriedchicksshowroom.com.
¢ Nursery décor and home furnish-
ing brand Oilo bows a collection of bedding and coordinating lighting and pillows in two contemporary motifs. The Wheels collection features a cobalt blue circle design; a light green branch pattern is offered in the Modern Berries collection. Three-piece sets
¢ Cloth diaper brand Kushies introduces a new diaper bag collection. Two easy-to-clean styles—the floral Whimsy and brown and cream Boho—are outfitted with exterior pockets, stroller snaps, insulated bottle holders and a padded changing mat. The duffle-style Boho is $24 wholesale; the Whimsy messenger bag is $20. Call (800) 841-5330 or visit www.kushies.com.
(with a bumper, skirt and fitted crib sheet) wholesale for $199. The U.S.made, machine-washable pieces are also sold separately for $24.99 to $79. Lampshades ($74.99 to $99) and pillows ($19.99 to $24.99) in cobalt stripe and green branch prints round out the line. Visit www.oilostudio.com.
Organically Grown’s newborn collection presents cheerful, animal-themed cotton jersey options to furnish baby’s eco wardrobe. The brand’s styles are available in sizes 0 to 24 months in pink/sage bird, blue/tan bear and oatmeal/cream bear colorways and motifs. Footed coveralls and sets—a gown, cap and blanket set, take-me-home outfits and bodysuit threepacks—are offered in each color group. Additional coveralls with earth and veggie prints round out the line. Wholesale prices are $6.99 to $20. Call (212) 279-2599 or visit www.organicallygrowngroup.com.
United Legwear launches Baby Genius branded infant and toddler hosiery and accessories, under an exclusive three-year deal brokered by the Joester Loria Group. The collection will incorporate attributes such as rattles in the socks to tie back to the brand’s musical roots. The company is producing layette, blankets, bibs, bodysuits, tanks, legwear, booties and more. The line will hit retail this fall. Contact United Legwear at (212) 391-4143. E A R N S H AW S . C O M • J U N E 2 0 1 0 1 5
UNWRAPPED NEW GIFTABLE ITEMS Festive dress from T-shirt Tutus
Hair clip by Faigie Zuccini outfit
LaJenns appliquéd jumper
Romper by Secret Wishes Carmelo dress
Cupcake Originals smocked boys’ ensemble
Smocked bishop by Little Threads
Cards by Wanart
SINGULAR ACHIEVEMENTS
Festive apparel and accessories make first birthday wishes come true. By Caletha Crawford 16
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KICKS FOR KIDS Footwear Retail & Style
Holey Moley
Girly Edge
WHILE CROCS MAY not be as hot as they were three years ago, the fact is many consumers are loathe to retire the brand’s lightweight, comfortable, go-everywhere slip-ons—especially pint-sized loyalists. Enter Native, a Vancouver-based company that’s putting a new streetwise twist on holey, featherweight footwear. The brand launched its adult line for Spring ’10, and the kids’ collection is fast on its heels for fall, with three funky takedown styles. “EVA shoes have been out in the market for some time,” said Dre Hayes, U.S. sales manager. “People love them for their functionality. But what’s been missing is the fashion element, and that’s what Native brings to the category.” Founders Damian Van Zyll De Jong and Matthew Penner dreamed up Native in 2009, wanting to design good-looking shoes out of EVA that had the airiness of a sandal but the look of their favorite classic shoe styles. Most of all, they sought ultimate comfort. As a result, the brand has elevated the injected-foam shoe category by introducing silhouettes that mirror iconic casual styles. The Jefferson offers the look of a traditional vulcanized sneaker with a rubber toe; the Miller is a three-eyelet twist on simple canvas kicks; and the Corrado slip-on has the flavor of a boat shoe. All are washable, mold to the feet, have antimicrobial properties and feature non-marking soles. Children will get their pick from bright purple, red, green, black, pink, orange, royal and light blue uppers riding on top of a white outsole. Native Shoes—which is already distributing to a dozen countries worldwide— addresses the entire family. The shoes are available in child sizes 3/4 through 11/12 ($15 wholesale) and junior sizes 1 to 3 ($17.50). Knowing parents are extremely budget conscious when it comes to buying kids’ footwear, Native kept prices of the children’s product as low as possible. “Our adult shoes are priced $5 more than Crocs, but on the kids’ we wanted to match them price for price,” Hayes noted. Hayes said what really sets Native apart from its EVA predecessors is a distinct, lifestyle-focused distribution strategy. “For the adults’ launch, we were in Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, American Rag, Undefeated, and surf and skate shops. Some of those places had never carried EVA shoes before,” he reported. Native Shoes will look to bring more of its adult styles—including boots—down to children in future seasons. For information, call The Foundation showroom at (212) 575-2373 or visit www.nativeshoes.com. —leslie shiers
A GO-TO SOURCE for girls’ slip-ons and traditional Mary Janes, Pazitos is concentrating on an edgier tween customer with its new introduction: the Picaroz collection. “Picaroz is filling the gap left by Pazitos,” explained Roberto Paz, who coowns the company with his wife, Letty, and views this age group as one typically overlooked by the market. “[The Picaroz] customer is more creative with her outfits and puts together looks with different textures, colors and styles.” Set to hit retail this fall, Picaroz by Pazitos will have little fashionistas itching for their first day of school, where they can make a splash in the classroom wearing leopard, zebra or plaid vulcanized boots or Mary Janes; patent leather pull-on boots with tassel details; studded ankle booties; bejeweled ballet flats; casually laidback desert boots; and more. Paz noted that the line is mostly made of synthetic materials. “This gives Picaroz great design alternatives and freedom to stay within budget,” he said, adding that the collection aims to provide fabulous designs at attainable prices. While the company planned the line to target tweens in particular, Paz noted that younger girls have also gotten excited about the trendy boots and shoes. One of the key pieces thus far for the U.S. market has been the Tahoe boot. “[This style] is a perfect example of what Picaroz is all about,” Paz said, ticking off its combination of patent leather, gold shoelaces and tennis-shoe soles, which all come together in a singular, statement-making style. Available in European sizes 22 to 39, the collection wholesales for $19 to $25. Contact Pazitos at (818) 7106582 or visit www.pazitosinc.com. —l.s. E A R N S H AW S . C O M • J U N E 2 0 1 0 1 7
COAST TO COAST Spotlighting Fashions Nationwide
Making a Beeline
Tween Sensation
Aiming to create a line offering well made, classic pieces that aren’t too fussy, Maryam Barrett applied her fashion knowledge to launch Busy Bees. The San Francisco-based designer grew up surrounded by the apparel industry: Thirty years ago, her mother started a women’s Scottish cashmere line, which is based in London. Later on, Barrett found herself immersed in fashion when she took a job with public relations agency LaForce + Stevens in New York. Her experience has culminated in her own line for boys and girls 3 months to 12 years, which blends a preppy, East Coast aesthetic with Southern charm. “It [provides] something for the mom who goes to church on Sundays, dresses up for occasions and takes pride in how the family looks, but I didn’t want to insult her with price points you find on higher-end clothing,” Barrett explained. While the line features classic silhouettes, Busy Bees breaks away from traditional pink and blue, instead incorporating turquoise, fuchsia, eggplant and gray into girls’ pieces and red, teal, navy and gray into boys’. Barrett (and her Southern-based design partner) wanted the line to be kid-friendly. “I wanted children to be children and [the clothing to be] free of logos and ‘mommy and me’ looks,” she explained. For girls, highlights include the Anna empire-waist corduroy dress with cap sleeves and a geometric dot print; the Morgan turquoise shift dress with fuchsia front pockets and covered buttons; a ruffled V-neck dress in Blackwatch plaid wool with a green velvet sash; a knit turtleneck dress with leggings; and more. Boys’ styles range from a corduroy cargo pant to flat-front wool pants lined in satin, a green plaid two-pocket button-down and wool shortalls with contrast teal piping. Barrett wanted to include her own heritage in the collection, so she created a separate Scottish cashmere grouping for gift-giving, which includes sweaters, baby blankets and other accessories. While the cashmere prices are much more expensive than the sportswear line, Barrett says “our pieces last, and [parents] can hand them down.” Sportswear wholesales between $22 and $72; the cashmere line runs $35 to $190. E-mail contactus@busybees-kids.com or visit www.busybees-kids.com. —melissa knific
In between designing costumes for Beyoncé, Whoopi Goldberg and Mariah Carey, Johnetta Boone somehow found time to launch a tween-focused apparel label. After attending the Fashion Institute of Technology, Boone found herself in the film arena when she was asked to assist styling for the film “Beloved.” “Runaway Bride” soon followed, as well as “Cadillac Records,” “The Jane Austen Book Club” and others. The “aha” moment for the New York-based girls’ 7-to-16 line, which launched for Fall ’10, happened when Boone’s friend, a mother of several daughters, expressed concern about dressing them. There are no “in between“ clothes for tweens, her friend lamented, just those that make a girl look too young or too old. Boone set out on a mission to fill this niche with an upscale, European-inspired line she named Z2 Wear. The hip yet classic line is made in the U.S.A. and features a jewel-tone palette comprising plum, teal and fuchsia. Highlights from the debut collection include the Scottsdale denim jumper, a twist on a prep school uniform with a faux hip belt, two patch pockets and a pleated skirt; the Juliette jumper, which has a ruched empire waist; and a ruffled tunic with a Mandarin collar (in either a batik teal and gray; a pink, green, purple and black paisley print; or a black and “crayon” stripe). All pieces are designed to be comfortable and washable, says brand spokesperson Kumi Kimball. Boone also designed a denim messenger bag with pink contrast stitching, crystal embellishments and the Z2 Wear logo for all the “stuff” tweens carry with them, Kimball noted. The line will comprise many more styles for Spring ’11. Wholesale prices are $32 to $76 for apparel; the messenger bag is $50 wholesale. Keeping the tween lifestyle in mind, the company is targeting young, tech-savvy consumers through social networking efforts such as Facebook and celebrity clientele. E-mail sales@z2wear. com or visit www.z2wear.com. —m.k.
18 EARNSHAW’S • JUNE 2010
Fresh Direct After happening upon the children’s wear industry, Evan McCauley realized she had found her calling. A designer of clothes and patterns since age 12, she attended the Rhode Island School of Design, took a teaching gig and then moved to Italy, where she worked for Salvatore Ferragamo. When McCauley moved back to the States, she found herself working for a small beachwear brand and ended up creating a kids’ division—and she was hooked. McCauley launched her own children’s line, Taravat (named after her best friend, which means “fresh” in Persian) for Fall ’10. The girls’ brand offers sporty, feminine looks for sizes 2 to 8. “It’s colorful, playful and modern without being ostentatious,” the designer noted. McCauley has a strong interest in sustainability, so a portion of the line is made using PLA, a biodegradable corn fiber blend that acts as an alternative to polyester. In addition, Cincinnati-based Taravat utilizes cotton and bamboo blends that are Oeko-Tex certified, meaning they have been tested for low toxicity, and sources the fabrics in Europe because she believes the standards are higher there than in the United States. Key pieces include the color-blocked zip-up Felpa coat, the Princess tunic with an elasticized waistband and contrasting pink bands around each arm, a jersey tennis skirt with bias tape trim and side pockets, and a velour dress with bell sleeves and a circle skirt. In addition, the brand sells sweatshirts, wide-collar tees, ruched leggings, tights and more. This season, Tavarat maintains a bold palette of aqua, hot pink, pistachio, blue, coral, raspberry and purple, balanced by softer colors like gray, peach and baby blue. Wholesale prices are $20 to $50 for apparel; legwear is $12 to $15. McCauley plans on increasing the sustainability of the line, as she is looking to add organic cottons and soy fibers. “I’m trying to offer a great value without sacrificing quality,” she said. E-mail taravat.kids@gmail.com or visit www.taravatkids.com. —m.k.
tk design and illo
CASHING IN THE BLUE CHIPS
Cashing In the Blue Chips Vendors and retailers have been playing it safe with evergreen licensed properties, but a loosening economy will up the ante for fresh brands and products. By Leslie Shiers
Vendors and retailers have been playing it safe with evergreen licensed properties, but a loosening economy should up the ante for fresh brands and products. By Leslie Shiers THE ECONOMY CAN be in the toilet, the retail world shrinking like mad and consumers cutting back on their “want” purchases, and yet a hit such as High School Musical can rocket out of the entertainment world, setting off an explosion of product demand. It’s an out-of-left-field phenom like this Disney tween property—which arguably peaked as the recession heightened—that keeps the kids’ industry on the hunt for the next big of-the-moment brand. Yet the quest for that hot new prop seems to have slowed as recessionbedraggled manufacturers and retailers have hedged their bets with triedand-true evergreen brands—and fewer of them. As the economy triggered a tightening of consumer spending, “retailers concentrated just on the strongest properties, letting everything else fall by the wayside,” explained Ira Mayer, president and publisher of “The Licensing Letter,” a tip sheet on industry trends. “Once upon a time, a store might have focused on four or five different properties. Now, you’re down to just two or three in mass merchants and department stores.” Any new property comes with a risk, which makes it easy to see why blue chip TV properties such as SpongeBob SquarePants have held strong through the recession, as have perennial fashion brands like Hello Kitty. “Those brands laid a lot of groundwork for a lot of years, and they opened distribution 20
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in more channels in the last 12 to 18 months than ever before,” Mayer reported. Meanwhile, film companies have taken a cautious tact, with many focusing on sequels of proven hits. The upcoming spate, which includes “Cars 2” and “Toy Story 3,” offers more solid merchandising prospects than unknown properties. “For retailers who are making their commitment nine months in advance and who have a choice between an ‘Iron Man 1’ or a ‘Spiderman 3’—well, which is the safer choice?” mused Marty Brochstein, senior vice president of industry relations for the Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association. Original newcomers—even from blockbuster-producing companies like Pixar—often don’t see great sell-in. If the film is a hit, though, the consumer products world is quick on the uptake. Brochstein cites “Finding Nemo” as an example: Retailers passed on products upfront but wound up chasing it when kids and families fell in love with the movie. Lifestyle brands also must vie for retailers’ attention, and those without staying power or serious marketing support have struggled in this economy. Alan Maleh, CEO of Weeplay, noted “B and C brands” have faded away, while properties backed by solid marketing have had higher survival rates. “We had Boon, Under the Canopy—[brands with] cool niches in the market,” he said. “But at the end of the day, we have Carter’s, Hello Kitty and Pastry.”
“This will always be a risk/reward business. Not every license you get is going to work, but you expect the hits will make up for the misses.”
and when there’s a royalty fee built in there, it becomes increasingly difficult.” This may have been what’s led some manufacturers, such as Stride Rite, to try their hand at developing their own characters, and some— including apparel maker Kahn Lucas—even believe they can grow those in-house brands big enough to attract licensees of their own. With its Dollie & Me brand, officially launching this fall, Kahn Lucas is partnering with a renowned dollmaker and creating girls’ dresses to be sold with a matching doll-sized garment. Daniel Ifcher, the company’s chief global licensing and marketing officer, said he believes Dollie & Me can become an evergreen business, and he is already solidifying deals with partners for RAISED STAKES relevant brand extensions. Of course, other factors have put a squeeze on Still, growing a new brand from scratch licensed product prospects. “There are fewer and —Marty Brochstein, senior vice requires a great deal of time and money for larger retailers involved now,” noted Roz Nowicki, president of industry relations, LIMA marketing and development. That’s why licen4Kids Entertainment’s executive vice president of sors and brand agents tout the fact that licenses licensing and marketing. The shrinkage of retail provide a built-in reason for consumers to buy. real estate due to increased store consolidation is “[Retailers] have the option of building a brand forcing licensors and brand agents to be smarter on their own, but that gets very expensive and takes a while,” Brochstein about their positioning. And there’s pressure from the remaining retailers as said. “The license is a shortcut.” And despite weak sales of licensed goods well, many of whom are looking for exclusives via direct-to-retail agreements in the latter half of the 2000s, these products are still able to command a or choosing to differentiate themselves through private label brands instead. price premium at retail, according to “Retail Pricing of Licensed vs. Non“Every retailer wants to be different than the competition, because othLicensed Merchandise,” a recent study authored by Karen Raugust of EPM erwise you’re just selling on price, which depresses margins,” Brochstein Communications (parent of The Licensing Letter). As Mayer noted, even said. “Whether you’re getting some exclusive SKUs within a license or direct though budget-conscious parents might prefer to purchase a lesser-priced licensing yourself, that’s an attractive [option].” According to Nowicki, the generic item of equal quality, sometimes it’s not worth fighting the child who trend of direct-to-retail arrangements emerged about a decade ago, around demands the one plastered with their favorite character. the time JCPenney launched its Space Jam product line. Since then, the importance of these arrangements has ballooned. “Direct-to-retail deals give the buyer the margin he wants, a bit of safety and exclusivity,” she explained. SMART BETS Licensed celebrity lines have made a real splash of late, launching through It’s that emotional connection that licensors, licensees and retailers hope specific stores seeking to leverage these individuals’ star power. The most consumers will find in their related merchandise. Keeping shoppers interrecent hookups include Selena Gomez’s Dream Out Loud brand for Kmart, ested in the property is a group effort, as constant engagement, effective Supergirl by Nastia Liukin for JCPenney and Madonna’s Material Girl label marketing, smart distribution and great product all play a role. set to debut at Macy’s. These collections, however, can be hit or miss at retail It starts with the licensor. “We have to keep [our properties] top of (Jordin Sparks’ line at Wet Seal and Walmart’s Jonas Brothers’ merchandise mind,” said Pam Westman, executive vice president of the Americas for didn’t seem to make big waves), and experts note that at the end of the day, HIT Entertainment. “That’s our primary responsibility in this partnership.” the merchandise itself trumps whatever name is attached. “If people think This boils down to producing popular entertainment content or building a the product is ugly and junky, then the line is probably not going to last,” strong lifestyle brand. For evergreen properties, like HIT’s Thomas the Tank Mayer said. Still, limited editions and a celeb-driven marketing blitz can Engine or Cookie Jar’s Strawberry Shortcake, it means constant reinvention potentially pull foot traffic, and he expects retailer and consumer excitement so consumers stay intrigued. According to Davis of CPLG, the Doodlebops, over these brands will continue until the market becomes oversaturated. which had a good run based on a live action show a few years ago, will be capIn today’s highly competitive environment, private labels are offering tured in an animated series this coming season, while the recently redrawn stores an alternate means of differentiating themselves—and this, too, poses Strawberry Shortcake will get yet another makeover for her new show debuta challenge for the licensing world. Cindy Davis, senior vice president of U.S. ing on The Hub. New storylines, a new look, additional characters—that’s licensing for CPLG, a division of Cookie Jar Entertainment, noted private what keeps kids interested, Davis said. labels were gaining momentum even before the economic downturn—and Marketing also falls largely to the licensor. “Having Hello Kitty on a Tthe reasoning is pure dollars and cents. “For several years now, retailers shirt means something to the consumer because of the marketing that’s have been carrying less licensed product and more private label. They’ve been done around that character,” Brochstein explained, noting her face been pushing their manufacturers to go lower and lower with their pricing, doesn’t inherently mean anything. For a manufacturer, tapping into >23
Buyers have lost interest in taking risks, which makes it harder for new properties to break through. Exhibitors at this month’s Licensing International Expo have their fingers crossed for those rare opportunities—and insiders are optimistic that this year’s edition will ignite movement in the industry. “Retailers are still overwhelmingly conservative in the choices they’re making, but I think they’re seeing the business is starting to come back,” Brochstein said. Bringing in a freshto-market brand could potentially excite consumers and spark sales. As Brochstein put it, “People like newness, and every retailer wants to have the latest and greatest in their stores.”
SpongeBob SquarePants
Hello Kitty
Batman
<< A New Hand Look for perennial properties to clear the way for newer brands as the recession eases. >>
Dream Out Loud by Selena Gomez
Phineas and Ferb
Iron Man
E A R N S H AW S . C O M • J U N E 2 0 1 0 2 1
ADVERTORIAL
LEAPS & BOUNDS
With Baby Genius and Zutano, United Legwear reaches new retail tiers and steps into footwear.
U
nited Legwear & Underwear Co. is poised to experience a baby boom at retail, thanks to new partnerships with Baby Genius and Zutano. With these new lines, United Legwear will also gain entrée into additional tiers and product categories. “Customizing collections to the specific qualities of the brands and the ability to expand their reach and depth illustrates United Legwear’s commitment to offering unique, differentiated product on behalf of each of our li-
censors,” said Isaac Ash, president and CEO of United Legwear & Underwear Co. “It’s always exciting to collaborate on design collections and creatively define this in our categories.” The first rollout will be legwear, blankets and bodysuits under the Baby Genius label, which will launch at retail this fall. Interpreting the Baby Genius brand has proven one of the company’s most challenging and fun tasks to date. Ash (who notes the children’s DVD series is one of his daughter’s favorites) and his team have a thrilling opportunity to connect the brand’s musical roots to apparel and accessory items. The design team has set about developing character-driven artwork, which will be instantly recognizable to fans of the long-running series, and also found innovative ways to create interactive products incorporating the music elements into the designs, whether it’s adding a 3-D music note to a heel tab or a rattle to the baby booties. “United Legwear is a respected industry leader whose reputation for creativity, quality and integrity is a perfect fit for our endearing Baby Genius characters,” said Larry Balaban, chief creative officer of Pacific Entertainment Corporation, licensor of the Baby Genius property. “We are thrilled with our new association and look forward to extending the Baby Genius brand into this important category of apparel.” The manufacturer will follow Baby Genius’ distribution model, which spans big boxes like Target and Walmart as well as specialty toy stores and bookstores such as Barnes & Noble. United Legwear is also developing an array of merchandising options to suit a breadth of retail formats, including basic legwear packaging, box sets and space-saving clip strips. For Zutano, Ash said his team is eagerly exploring ways to complement the brand’s amazing graphics and incorporate co-owner and designer Uli Belenky’s unique color sense. It’s an exciting adventure for the popular apparel brand as well. “Uli’s designs have had a big influence on the industry,” Zutano president Michael Belenky noted. “After 21 years, we’ve seen that we’ve built really strong brand equity and a strong following. Having some of our popular prints translated into other products has been a really fun thing to see.” United Legwear will produce Zutano-branded socks, legwear, leggings and—in a new venture for the company—footwear. According to Ash, the decision to enter this category makes sense, given United Legwear’s market positioning. “We are everything ‘foot,’ and we have extensive experience in the infant and toddler world,” he said. “Our company is looking for ways to grow our business platform, so footwear seemed like a natural extension.” To facilitate all of the company’s new projects, Ash has appointed a full team to build each brand’s infrastructure, from product development to sales execution. “Our total success in each partnership is hinged on focusing and driving the elements that make that brand special into all aspects of our product development, manufacturing and sales efforts. This is a team effort, and we make those teams independent to ensure the brand’s focus and execution is seamless.” Contact United Legwear at (212) 391-4143.
United Legwear’s creative use of Zutano prints and images (top and middle) and Baby Genius characters (bottom).
Cashing in the Blue Chips (continued from page 21) an existing brand’s marketing strength is one of the key benefits of securing a license. Supporting a retailer for an exclusive launch, promoting the property through live events and community programs, and devising a merchandising program in which all licensees carry weight in the brand’s success is vital. Finding the right licensee is a top priority for licensors, who start by assessing a vendor’s track record: Are they an expert in their product category? Do they consistently put out quality product? Do they cater to the appropriate market tiers? “They have to have the distribution, be in all the retail tiers and be shipping with success so buyers are happy with them,” Nowicki said. Pricing is also a factor, as is the manufacturer’s design creativity and know-how concerning the licensing business. “They have to understand that they’re dealing with intellectual property that someone else owns, and they have to follow the guidelines,” she stressed. Steve Russo, president and CEO of FAB/Starpoint, said his company’s daily mission is to exceed its licensors’ expectations in terms of fulfilling retailers’ needs, whether that means providing back-end support, replenishment programs, etc. “It’s easy to say but not to do,” he said. Russo also noted that FAB/Starpoint—which has produced accessories and home décor products for properties like High School Musical and Toy Story—is picky about which licenses it takes on. “If we miss [a big] one, it’s not the end of the world. We’re highly selective about what we take, because each deal is a commitment to the licensor that you’ll nurture their child. We don’t want to disappoint anybody.” Brochstein agreed that one of the keys of the licensing business is the ability to act fast if and when necessary. “You have to do all the groundwork, so that if [a brand] does take off, you’re prepared to leverage it,” he said. Licensors also want to know their licensed merchandise is reaching the appropriate markets, and are increasingly looking to spread their properties across multiple retail tiers. Where in the past high-end consumers might have turned their noses up at a brand that first appeared at Walmart, shoppers today are unabashedly crossing tiers, and a property that covers all the
bases will capture more mindshare. That said, both parties need to find the right fit. Maleh of Weeplay noted KidRobot was looking for a different distribution strategy than his company could reach, and he’s OK with that. “We’re not trying to be what we’re not,” he said. The “fit” test is important, as licensors want to be assured there’s a strong philosophical match with prospective partners, and that the property works within the licensee’s portfolio. “We look for their passion for our brand,” Davis noted. “If we have to twist their arm, it’s probably not going to be a good partnership.”
BIG PAYDAYS Experts believe the time is ripe for a new property to burst onto the scene. According to Mayer, retailers’ unwillingness to stock anything novel in recent seasons caused a lot of licensors to stop trying to sell new things in, which has left the pipeline empty. “I think over the next year you’ll see a little more flexibility, with retailers taking more chances with brands they believe in,” he said. But, he added, the biggest hits tend to come out of nowhere. “One of the fascinating things about the licensing business is trying to track and then predict pop culture,” Brochstein said. “But when you catch one right, it’s a goldmine... This will always be a risk/reward business. Not every license you get is going to work, but you expect the hits will make up for the misses.” Vendors agree. When it comes to uncovering a golden license, “you get out the darts and kiss a lot of frogs,” Maleh joked, noting there’s no big secret— smart decisions just require good old business acumen. “I thought there were tricks, but it’s much simpler than that: Let the products be your guide.” And as movies, TV properties, Internet fads, celebrity entries and even Silly Bandz come and go, it’s important for both manufacturers and retailers to remain nimble. “At some point, [retailers] are going to miss out on some big license and everyone’s going to jump back in [the game], because they don’t want to be left out in the cold when the next big one hits,” Mayer said. “For the moment, the retailer’s calling the shots—but that’s the cycle of retail.” •
M. Andonia purse
CHILDREN’S RETAILERS ARE discovering what their women’s apparel counterparts learned long ago: Females—no matter what age—love shopping for accessories. Buyers are reporting the category is their fastest growing and after a year of selecting safe apparel (i.e. basics and value collections), they’re finding cute, affordable add-ons fill the sales gap. As Mary C. Lavin, owner of Twirl Kids’ Boutique in Vero Beach, Fla., explained, “The $150 Lili Gaufrette outfit is a much harder sell, but almost everyone can afford a $16 necklace.” The easy “yes” that accessories stimulate offers buyers incentive for staying on the hunt for an array of fresh baubles and bows. “I reorder frequently and buy from a variety of wholesalers to continually mix it up. I get new shipments every week and customers look forward to new arrivals,” Lavin said. Other retailers agree, noting that as soon as a girl is old enough to talk (or point!) she’s demanding the little extras they have merchandised around their stores. And although it’s a tougher category, boys can also be wooed. Accessory brands that meet boys’ style quotient sell almost immediately, however, shop owners regard the selection for boys as weak. At Jamara Ghalayini’s Pumpkinheads boutique in Pasadena, Calif., boys’ accessories are popular add-ons and birthday gifts. “Customers like the adult hat styles that are shrunken down for boys,” she said. “I wish there were more brands tackling the boys’ category.” Here, retailers outline their accessories success stories.
High IntenCity charm bracelet
Mary C. Lavin, owner, Twirl Kids’ Boutique, Vero Beach, Fla. What percentage of revenue do accessories represent? In 2009, 20 percent of our sales were from accessories. It’s up to 25 percent to date in 2010 and still growing. Are you expanding your selection? My biggest growth areas are tween and accessories. I started by adding tween items such as jewelry, scarves and wallets and soon realized that highschoolers and moms
were buying them. Since then, Twirl has become the area’s go-to store for easy gifts. What is your buying strategy? I get new shipments every week and customers look forward to new arrivals. Best Sellers • No Slippy Hair Clippy ($8) • High IntenCity’s Charm It! & Charm Candy ($5 to $20) • Embroidered positive message wallets from Natural Life ($30) • Peace sign scarves by Funky Junque ($15)
gems Pediped’s gladiator sandal
Fore by Axel and Hudson hat
HIDDEN
Whether designed to pack panache into an outfit or provide an easy gift sale, retailers are turning their attention to accessories and finding all that glitters is indeed gold. By Angela Velasquez
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Purse by Giddy Giddy
Gina DeFrank, co-owner, Moxie Kids, Raleigh, N.C. Has the economy impacted sales? We see a lot of growth in this group and are actively adding accessory lines to our store—especially items that are less seasonal, like belts and hair accessories. Customers today are looking for less expensive ways to add some fun to their child’s wardrobe. How do you promote this merchandise? We display hats and sunglasses at a height so kids can try them on themselves. Accessories are the single item that kids love to try on, and once parents see it on, they’re more inclined to buy. At what age do girls start noticing accessories? Girls start young! At about the age of 2, girls want to try on headbands, sunglasses and sparkly flip-flops. They look at themselves in the mirror and wear the items around the store. Best Sellers • Giddy Giddy felt hair clips with animal and flower motifs ($9) • Vintage caps from Sand Cassel Kids by Goorin Brothers ($25) • Sparkly Mary Janes from Morgan & Milo ($40) and See Kai Run’s fisherman sandals for boys ($40) • Handmade animal pouches by Giddy Giddy ($34) • Teeny Tiny Optic Sunglasses ($9) in retro styles
Kathryn O’Connell & Toria Kaufman, owners, Koukla Kids, Sacramento, Calif. What percentage of revenue do accessories represent? 24 percent. Shoes? 10 percent. How do you promote this merchandise? To promote our Charm It! bracelets we offer a frequent buyer card (supplied by High IntenCity) where the customer gets one free charm for every 10 purchased. For accessories such as hats, we offer photo sessions called Tiny Topper with our in-store photographer. Hat portrait parties are a unique way to get our clients shopping for their children while getting some great photos, too. We’ve gained a reputation for carrying a wide variety of hats. What is the pricing “sweet spot”? Accessories under $20 do well in our area. We host many giftgivers and find their budget for gifts typically ranges from $20 to $30. Other than shoes, we offer hair accessories, hats, jewelry, socks and tights, and purses for children in this ballpark price range. Best Sellers • Classic bows from Bows Arts ($3 to $10) and Ashley Anne’s pink and and lime rhinestone flower clips ($12) • Charm It! from High IntenCity ($5 to $10) • M. Andonia’s Smitten Kitten children’s purses ($27) • Silver Alara sandals from See Kai Run ($40)
Me In Mind sock set
Allison MacCullough, owner, Bundle, New York How do you promote accessories? We e-mail our clients when we get new merchandise and give it prime space in the store. Specifically, we put it in our windows and display it on a table located front and center when you enter the store. What is your buying strategy? I keep a small open budget for new accessories that I see throughout the season. Since our store is located in Soho, designers stop by on a daily basis to show me new things. What is the pricing “sweet spot”? I try my best to keep them all under $20. Often accessories are an add-on for a gift or a little treat if the child is in the store. How would you describe the category for boys? People love hats, suspenders, ties and bowties for little guys. Accessories are an easy way to make your little boy more stylish without spending a lot. Best Sellers • Stella Bella handmade flower headbands ($19.50) • Egg Baby’s cotton sunhat in a purple and navy giraffe print ($23) • Pediped’s gold Aurelia gladiator sandal for pre-walkers ($42) and the Phoebe sandal ($53) with braided leather details for older kids
Daily Tea hats
Marlo Hoffman, co-owner, Psychobaby, Chicago What percentage of revenue do accessories represent? 30 percent. Shoes? Our current sales are at a steady 5 percent. We have a slightly harder time finding footwear we like, and our favorite adult lines have slimmed down their kids’ offerings. I think this will change as the economy grows more confident. Has the recession changed your accessory business? Since the price point tends to be lower, we’ve seen some increased business in this category. Our accessory business has always been strong for us. However, it is more chal-
Knuckleheads newsboy cap
Molly Ridenhour, e-tailer, Pure and Honest Kids What percentage of revenue do accessories represent? 8 percent. Shoes? 10 percent. Has the recession changed your accessory business? It’s definitely slowed a bit. Accessories are considered extras, and during a recession, extras often get dropped. Do your customers like traditional or trendy accessories? The things that pop best on screen also sell the best. Price point makes a difference, too. Customers seem to be willing to pay more for traditional items but less on funkier accessories. What is the pricing sweet spot? It depends on the item, but under $10 or $15 seems to work well for hair accessories, hats, socks and tights, while I’d say it’s under $45 for designer shoes. How would you describe the category for boys? Socks and hats are the bestselling accessories for boys. Shoes also do well, although boys usually have far fewer shoes than girls. Best Sellers • No Slippy Hair Clippy grosgrain bows and glitter flower clips ($8) • Solid and striped tights by Country Kids ($10 to $12) • Daily Tea bucket hats ($19) • Livie & Luca footwear ($45)
lenging to find small, unique vendors, which is why we have increased our own line. How do you promote this merchandise? Our main thrust has been the social networking platforms—Facebook, Twitter and our Psychobaby blog—and we are constantly trying out new media outlets in the digital space. What is missing in the accessory category? Original ideas! It sometimes feels like one bad copy after another. I guess this is the case in any fashion business. Best Sellers • Glitzy, over-the-top hair clips by Rachel Weissman ($8) • Me In Mind rock ‘n’ roll sock sets ($26) E A R N S H AW S . C O M • J U N E 2 0 1 0 2 5
3 Cheers for Girls! backpack
Misty Polston-York, owner, Pout Couture, Cornelius, N.C. Are you adding or cutting any accessories? We are adding more hair bows and hats. Being in the heart of the South, hair bows (the bigger the better) have always sold well for us. In the last
Angie Parde, owner, Tiaras Kids Boutique, Lincoln, Neb. What percentage of revenue do accessories represent? 20 percent. Shoes? 10 percent. Are you expanding your selection? We are always adding accessories to our store, and we’re even adding women’s accessories for the moms. The category has grown from the first day we opened. What is your buying strategy? I go to market two or three times a year—the Dallas market and Las Vegas kids show—and look online for new and upcoming designers. How would you describe the category for boys? We have some Ed Hardy-inspired sunglasses and hats that boys love, but it’s difficult to find products. Boy accessory lines need improvement. Best Sellers • Pink Axle’s guitar beanie ($18) in pink and black for babies and toddlers. • M3 Girl Designs snap caps ($6 to $10), especially the Peace & Love group. • Squeaky styles by Pickle Shoes ($34) • Backpacks and overnight bags by 3 Cheers for Girls! ($27) • QT Sunglasses ($9) and Bon Bon Cupcakes ruffle tights ($22) 26
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Kelly Quinn, manager, Real Baby Inc., Boulder, Colo. Do your customers like traditional or trendy accessories? Both. For example, we do just as well with BabyLegs’ classic striped style as we do with their skull and crossbones pattern. How do you promote accessories? Accessories are displayed throughout the store and in our window. We dress our mannequins in full head-to-toe looks and place accessories that match with one another nearby to help parents make decisions. What is the pricing “sweet spot”? Under $30 for items like hats, but parents will pay for cuteness. Best Sellers • Rachel Weissman barrettes ($8) • Pink Axle caps ($20) and Goorin baseball hats ($15) • BabyLegs arm- and legwarmers ($14) and Trumpette sock sets ($24)
Pink Axle printed beanie
two years, more customers want cute hats—especially cool hats for boys. We’ve made an honest attempt to add more of these items to our inventory in the fall season. One item we are cutting back on is jewelry. We just do not have many of our customers asking for it. What is the pricing “sweet spot”? It depends on the item. As far as shoes, most people want to stay below the $50 range for an everyday style, however our bestselling shoes are Lelli Kelly, which are around $80. How would you describe the category for boys? Shoes, shoes and more shoes! We sell our boys’ shoes as fast as we get them in and it seems that I’m constantly
Andy Behrman, owner, Wonderland (A Children’s Place), Brentwood, Calif. What percentage of revenue do accessories represent? 15 percent. Has the recession changed your accessory business? It seems that the accessory business slowed down a bit for us when the recession first hit, but accessories are definitely in demand again. Do your customers like traditional or trendy accessories? We have customers who are ultra-traditionalist and others who are looking for hip products, so we try to accommodate everyone by carrying both types of merchandise. At what age do girls start noticing accessories? Girls start paying attention to accessories as early as 18 months. It starts with princess crowns and jewelry and eventually they gravitate to more sophisticated, fun and funky accessories. Best Sellers • Rhinestone-embellished hairclips by Rachel Weissman ($12 to $16) • Goorin Brothers’ floral and solid sunhats and caps for girls, and vintage-inspired caps for boys ($24 to $36) • See Kai Run’s navy blue sneakers for boys and girls’ red and pink Mary Janes ($42) • Magnetic bracelets by Mogo Design that can convert into headbands and necklaces ($18 to $35)
reordering. I can honestly say that we sell as many boy shoes as we do girl shoes. In fact, more moms are so happy to find great boy shoes that they end up buying several pairs at once. Best Sellers • Big bows by Plantation Creation ($6), Reflection’s floral headbands and bows ($12), and floral clips by Itzy Bitzy ($10) • Multicolor flower hats from Jamie Rae Hats ($25), Flap Happy sun hats ($25) and Knucklehead’s newsboy caps ($25) • Lelli Kelly’s sparkly beaded tennis shoes ($80), Mary Janes from WeeSqueak ($34), Rainbow Steps’ brightly colored Mary Janes ($40) and light-up shoes from Dinosoles ($45)
Mogo Design convertible bracelets
Jamara Ghalayini, owner, Pumpkinheads, Pasadena, Calif. How do you promote this merchandise? Our cash wrap is a sweet spot for accessories and is perfect for last-minute add-ons and displaying inexpensive items parents don’t have to think too long and hard over. What is your buying strategy? Accessories are a different buying trip altogether, and unlike with apparel, I look at every catalog that comes in—I don’t have to see the line in person. I pick up merchandise throughout the year, but the best time for me to buy is May and November. This is when inventory is low. Accessories are an affordable way to fill up an empty-looking store. Do your customers like traditional or trendy accessories? Our customers are conservative, but want accessories with flair. This is where we seek trends and where they dabble in fun colors and embellishments. Best Sellers • Grosgrain clips by No Slippy Hair Clippy and Pea Soup headbands ($9 to $11) • High IntenCity’s Charm It! and M3 Girl Designs’ Snap Caps necklaces ($5 to $10) • Hatley lunchbags ($13) • Vintage baseball hats from Sand Cassel Kids by Goorin Brothers and Scotch & Soda ($19 to $22) • Pediped’s Abigail flower shoe ($33) and crystal-embellished Havaianas by Dini ($40 to $60) • Piggy Paint eco-friendly nail polish ($9) and Elegant Baby sock sets ($16)
Cherita Jones-Thomas, owner, Milk Money Children’s Boutique, Charlotte, N.C. What percentage of revenue do accessories represent? 20 percent. Shoes? 12 percent. Has the recession changed your accessory business? As clothing sales lag, accessories are booming. I’m adding to my accessory category because they’ve been good sellers throughout this recession and are great gifts. How do you promote this merchandise? We use our mannequins and sometimes our stuffed animals. I also have employees wear some pieces around the store. For example, we have a pacifier holder by Bink Link our associates wear as nametags that also say “ask me about this item.”
Are moms or kids selecting merchandise? The children are making the decisions, and with most, bling sells best. They usually pick up hair accessories like they’re shopping at a candy store. How would you describe the category for boys? Boys never really start paying attention to accessories, but there is a market for it— mostly hats and backpacks. Best Sellers • Floral-embellished hair clips from Creative Clips by Colleen ($12) • Fore by Axel and Hudson fedoras ($25), baseball and newsboy caps by Kangol ($30) and crocheted hats by Bitsy Bean ($25) • Myself Belts ($20) • EcoSnooper backpack by Pecoware ($22) • Monogrammed diaper covers by Mud Pie ($15) and Kidorable umbrellas ($13)
Sharon Collins, owner, Gazoodles Kids, Winston-Salem, N.C. Are you adding or cutting any accessories this season? I am cutting back on shoes because there are so many knockoffs now at a lower price point. What is your buying strategy? I buy seasonally and fill in during the season. Colors change, fabrics change, so I try to keep it fresh and I like to match products with some of the apparel lines to have that extra sale. Do your customers like traditional or trendy accessories? Mine like the funky accessories. Other stores in the area carry more traditional items. At what age do girls start noticing accessories? I carry bows because you have to have hair bows in this region, but I find that around 4 or 5, girls stop wearing the bows and want cute clips. Glitter and bling are always a plus. Best Sellers • Bella Tunno reversible headbands ($12) • Jamie Rae’s crocheted, knit and velvet hats with flower embellishments ($22 to $26) • Sandals and ballet flats by Kid Express ($44 to $66) and Wee Squeak’s peony Mary Jane and fisherman sandals ($31)
Bella Tunno headbands
“Customers are looking for less expensive ways to add some fun to their child’s wardrobe.” —Gina DeFrank, Moxie Kids
Scotch Shrunk by Scotch & Soda trilby hat
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T Fancy that.
SPEND TIME WITH Joan Calabrese, and it’s quickly apparent that designing feminine frocks for the special moments in a girl’s life is her passion. Calabrese has marketed her line of elegant dresswear for more than 30 years—and it all started over a fortuitous dinner at her home. Tom Marotta, then vice president of couture at Saks Fifth Avenue, took note of the beautiful dresses her daughters were wearing. Calabrese had whipped up these garments to her own exacting specifications, as she did for all of her own children’s clothing. Shortly thereafter, the Joan Calabrese line was born. “I’ve been interested in design as long as I could remember. My mother said as soon as I could hold a pencil I was drawing costumes and people,” the designer recalled. These early doodles eventually led to a high-end girls’ collection that has been carried at top department and specialty stores across the country. Given the price points that reach upwards of $500, however, many shoppers could only dream about owning a piece. When imitators began sprouting up selling garments at lower price points, Calabrese got her wake-up call. Eventually, she decided to beat those competitors at their own game and set about finding a wholesale partner for her more moderately priced offerings. This search lead her to bridal manufacturer Mon Cheri, and as CEO Steve Lang and Calabrese tell it, the union is still in its honeymoon phase—one that neither party expects to end anytime soon. From its inception in 1991, Mon Cheri aimed to be a leader in the wedding industry. Brides quickly became smitten with the company’s bold use of color in wedding dresses, a move that catapulted the brand to the forefront. Since then, Mon Cheri has remained vigilant in its quest to
hrough a collaboration with bridal gown powerhouse Mon Cheri, designer Joan Calabrese has found an eager audience for her affordable but exuberant dresswear line. BY CALETHA CRAWFORD
fill a bride’s every need. Three years ago, the company added the Joan Calabrese for Mon Cheri division of flower girl and communion options to round out its selection, which had grown to include mother-of-thebride, prom and party dresses. The match between Joan Calabrese and Mon Cheri has been a blissful marriage for the designer, wholesaler and retailers alike. For Calabrese, the Joan Calabrese for Mon Cheri collection provides a way for her to offer exquisite designs that fit into the typical mom’s budget. Meanwhile, Mon Cheri gets bragging rights for having landed a designer whose name resonates in the industry. And the label’s retailers—which span children’s boutiques, wedding salons and upscale department stores—enjoy a collection that provides the sophistication and elegance their customers demand. Lang, for one, is thrilled. “The aesthetic of Joan’s collection is equal to that of an art exhibition,” he said. “With her fine attention to detail and finishing touches, each piece is a work of art.” Although Calabrese studied fashion illustration at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, she never had formal design training. She credits her prolific design abilities to staying open-minded. “For the designers that are the most creative, it’s a never-ending process. You’re turned on all the time,” she added, noting that her inspiration can come from anything. “There are triggers that happen when your mind is open. Because I am a visual person, I respond to the triggers, and it all comes out when I’m sketching.” This season, the Joan Calabrese for Mon Cheri collection continues to answer retailers’ needs with the addition of infant dresses, tween styles and more plus-size offerings. These new categories continue to E A R N S H AW S . C O M • J U N E 2 0 1 0 2 9
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showcase the designers’ singular aesthetic. “For me, what works is something that is a cut way above everything else that’s out there,” Calabrese said. “I think that is how you survive.” How did the relationship with Mon Cheri come about? Joan Calabrese: I found myself copied really badly over the years. One person literally took one of my catalogs and knocked off probably every dress in it. Unfortunately, in America you don’t have much protection, and you’d have to have a lot of money to fight [back]. But I have to thank those [imitators], because one day I woke up and said, “I’m tired of designing for the rest of the industry. I’m going to design a lower priced collection myself.” I did my research and found Mon Cheri. Steve Lang is a very bright man, and I decided it was the company for me. They’re a wonderful team to work with. We had instant chemistry. Steve Lang: When you think of fine children’s wear, you automatically think of the name Joan Calabrese. The decision to work with her on this collection was a no-brainer—she’s simply the best. Joan’s reputation in the industry and [among] generations of women adds a timelessness and legendary feel to the collection. You know a “Joan” dress when you see one. What is your design philosphy? JC: It’s not my intention to give people more of what’s out there. I intend to bring something new to the table, something more fabulous. I take classics and add the twist of what’s going on in the market today. I am very inspired by au courant designs. It’s very important to be inspired by the way the trends are going. Tween dresses are the most trendy. The younger you get, the more classic the dress gets. It’s my business to take that classic shape and reinvent it in terms of detail, fabric choice and color. What types of stores carry the line? SL: Our stores are 60 percent children’s boutiques, 30 percent wedding shops and 10 percent department or other stores. Children’s boutiques are the strongest segment, since they carry the entire range of Joan’s styles, from baby to flower girl to first communion to tween. Bridal stores generally only carry flower girl dresses, which I believe allows for missed sales opportunities. JC: The high-end department stores are buying the Mon Cheri line even though the price point is very affordable. When I started this, if you’d said to me that Neiman Marcus, Saks and Nordstrom would buy this line, I would have said “I don’t think so.” But Neimans is Steve Lang going to buy the line, it’s already very successful at Nordstrom and Barneys has purchased some segments. It gets down to the everyday people who, in this economy, are not in any position to spend crazy amounts of money on their child’s flower girl or communion dress, but nevertheless they want something spectacular. We are giving them spectacular, but the price is affordable. Our average wholesale prices are $70 to $80. The range is from $49 to $130. Who is the Joan Calabrese for Mon Cheri customer? SL: Our customers are moms who want an heirloom-quality dress their daughters can pass down to future generations at an affordable price that won’t break their budget. This consumer wants the design, fit, use of fabric and detail Joan is known for at a moderate price point. Joan Calabrese shoppers look for her classic dirndl
Joan Calabrese
skirts, unique color combinations and use of 3-D flower accents. How has being a part of a bridal wear company influenced the looks of the girls’ line? SL: Joan works closely with Mon Cheri’s bridal designer, Martin Thornburg, to create flower girl and special occasion dresses that complement but don’t mimic our bridal gowns. Rather than simply design miniature versions, Joan takes certain details from the bridal designs and incorporates them into her dresses in an ageappropriate manner. It’s important to her for a little girl to look like a little girl in her designs. JC: I’m influenced by the bridal industry, but I’m not looking to do a miniature gown for a 5-year-old. I look at what the bridal designers are doing so that I can be inspired for the kids and so both lines will work together going down the aisle. Years ago we used to do lots of color, but today brides really like the idea of an ivory or offwhite flower girl dress that goes with the color of the bride’s gown. They may want to introduce color as a sash, so we do offer that in quite a few styles. Dirndl skirts, princess dresses, A-lines—we like to make sure all of the shapes are in our collection. How do you design for the different age ranges? JC: We have to respect the fact that kids today are exposed to so much more than a few years ago, even. We have to make sure that the [tweens] don’t look babyish, so my dresses are not going to be the typical little-girl dresses. I’m designing dresses that are more hip and the kind of things that teenagers would like. We want feedback from our clients, because [consumer tastes] change all the time. When I first started, the mother made the decision and that was the end of it. Now the child is very involved in the decision. It takes a lot of work to get into an 8-year-old’s head. The only way to do that is to constantly observe, observe, observe. When I go to trunk shows, I get to see what resonates with them. As you delve deeper into the tween category, how do you appeal to both moms and kids? JC: It’s something of a compromise. I’m strong, however, in my
belief system, and the folks here at Mon Cheri concur. We are not making sexy clothes for little girls, but we’re making things that can be perceived by the girl as being more grown up. We’re not making things that will have kids looking as though they’re 20 when they’re only 8. [For instance,] spaghetti straps are acceptable but no low-cut décolletage. What are your top Fall/Winter ’10 looks? JC: The No. 1 seller is a red taffeta Christmas dress with dimension, which we also offer in black. For babies, we used soft colors, but for older girls we used jewel tones, including some gorgeous platinum colors. For holiday, shoppers want strong statements of color. Black has also been popular. We have one black dress that has a sequin skirt with a jersey bodice and jet beading around the neck. Another important color is indigo blue. It was big last holiday and everyone did phenomenally well with it. We’ve also found purple and fuchsia to be good. Taffeta is the top fabric for winter, but flower girl dresses could be anything from taffeta to organza, tulle or matte satin. For older girls, soft fabrics that drape well are trendy. We have a lot of tulle ruffling and we use charmeuse because it’s soft and the older kids like that. The embellishments that work best are flowers, ruffles and beading. However, it’s not the typical big flower on the waist. We make flower details out of the dress fabric and add some beadwork, and it’s usually an allover thing. We’re finding the more we add in terms of embellishment, the better the reception. How has the current economic situation affected the line’s design? SL: No sacrifices have been made to the quality of Joan’s designs in order to make the product affordable for today’s economy. This value has been the cornerstone of the Joan Calabrese for Mon Cheri collection since its inception. Regardless of the state of the economy, moms can always expect an exceptional dress at a moderate price from this collection. What advice do you have for retailers who are looking to increase their special occasion sales? SL: Make sure that you have a well-stocked, broad variety of this collection in your store at all times. The collection cannot be well represented if you purchase less than the minimum of samples outlined each season. Also, promote the line as more than just a flower girl collection. Educate your customers through your website, advertisements and word-ofmouth that Joan Calabrese also offers special occasion party dresses, baby dresses, tween dresses and first communion dresses. JC: If someone owns a store where these dresses are sold, the owners should make sure the staff members are educated on the dresses, what’s available to them, the options and how long it takes to order a dress. Otherwise the store could lose the sale. [Consumers] call us sometimes after being told they can’t get a style at their local store. Also, the sale has to be worth the salesperson’s time, so you might offer some special incentives. •
WARM RECEPTION A sampling of the sentiments the Joan Calabrese for Mon Cheri collection evokes from shop owners who sell the line. Luan Fogg, owner, Luan’s in Long Beach, Calif. Praise: We buy the line by the ton. Our customers absolutely love it. Eight out 10 calls are for that collection. I would buy more if I could. Price: Customers are concerned with price more than they used to be. I’ve adjusted my buying for that. The Joan Calabrese line is in the $400 to $500 range, which is too expensive for my store. Now that the Mon Cheri line ranges from $200 to $250, it’s more affordable, and the dresses are special enough that customers are willing to buy them. Picks: Our No. 1 seller has been a sleeveless satin and
tulle tea-length dress with a two-tier skirt, crystal beading at the neckline and a satin sash at the waist. Gloria Capone, manager, The Wedding Salon of Manhasset in Manhasset, N.Y. Praise: The name Joan Calabrese has a big impact in the industry. It always has. Her styles are different. They have lots of details like scallops, ruffles and pick-ups. Price: We used to carry the Joan Calabrese [couture] collection but the economy changed. Price is now the top concern with shoppers. Picks: Our recent bestseller was a dress offered in a spun
gold color that had several layers and a scalloped hemline. Adriana Kopecka, co-owner, The Rocking Horse Boutique in Oak Park, Ill. Praise: Her dresses are really pretty with kind of a throwback to a more traditional yet elegant style. We have had a tremendous reaction to it. Some other lines are made for mini adults, but she still has what’s appropriate for a young girl in mind. Price: People expect to pay a little more for a designer dress, but this line is still accessible. Picks: My favorite dress has an illusion neckline and tulle skirt, which reminds me of the ’60s and Audrey Hepburn.
If it doesn’t say HALO , it’s not a SleepSack wearable blanket. ®
®
In 2000, HALO introduced the SleepSack brand.
SleepSack
®
is HALO’s brand name for wearable blankets.
SleepSack
®
is a nationally advertised brand.
SleepSack
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is a brand name that is a legally registered trademark that may only be used by HALO Innovations, Inc.
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IN AN URBAN VILLAGE THAT BREEDS INDIVIDUALISM, TRADITIONAL PIECES PACK A PUNCH. PHOTOGRAPHY BY AUGUSTUS BUTERA
Lavender Blue dress; Ewers tights; Bows Arts hair clip. LaJenns jumper and top; Ewers tights; Munro shoes.
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Hair and makeup by Chuck Jensen for Mark Edward, Inc. Fashion editor: Caletha Crawford
Funtasia Too jumper and blouse; Ewers socks; Little Soles shoes; Toby NYC handbag. T.F. Laurence button-down and Schiffli-embroidered pants; Eleven Collection shoes. 35
Girly Girl dress and top; MP Tights capri tights; Eleven Collection shoes. 37
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ChabrĂŠ by Bailey Boys ensemble. CR Kids jacket, dress and leggings; Bows Arts hair clip; Eleven Collection shoes.
Rosalina dress; Ewers tights; Bows Arts bow; Eleven Collection shoes. Livi G tunic and leggings; modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own shoes. 41
RETAIL PROFILE S P OT L I G H T I N G S TO R E S N AT I O N W I D E
ON A ROLL KEEPING UP WITH THE DESIRES OF THE FICKLE TWEEN CROWD HAS BEEN THE KEY TO SUCCESS FOR BETWEEN SCENE. BY CALETHA CRAWFORD
This youth-centric store offers surfer chicks and skater dudes everything from underwear to accessories.
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JUST LOOKING INSIDE one of the two Between Scene boutiques will instantly give you an idea of who the stores target. Brightly colored walls, skate- and surf-inspired décor, ongoing Xbox competitions and runway photos projected onto flatscreen TVs prove irresistible lures for tween shoppers. This youthful, exciting vibe is exactly what owner Mary Kubera had in mind when she launched the Baton Rouge, La., store five years ago, and she has carried the same energy and enthusiasm over to Dallas, where she opened a second location 18 months ago. “My vision was to make a tween store they could relate to that was fun and vibrant,” Kubera said. To tap into what kids want, she enlisted the help of her son, who was 8 at the time. He suggested video games as a way to entice would-be shoppers who spied the graphics through the windows, and he continues to advise on which brands and styles are hitting with his peers. In general, Kubera has found success whenever she consults the youngsters in her store. She spends lots of time on the sales floor interacting with her young customers, chatting them up about what they like and why. She’s even instituted a Fashion Board, a group of girls that meets twice a month to share their opinions on what’s hot and what’s not. In return, they walk away with a goodie bag and discounts on clothing, as well as a sense of store ownership. With help from these budding style mavens, Kubera stocks top sellers like Splendid, Ella Moss, Flowers by Zoe and J Brand. Generally speaking, her customers shy away from fussy styles in favor of simpler looks, but because they love labels, she tries to stock as many name brands as possible. Kubera also wants the store to be inclusive. “We sell True Religion but we also sell Tractor,” she said. “We try to offer a variety of price points to make it a place where almost any tween can shop.” Since tween girls have “very busy social lives,” Kubera noted the dresswear category is very important at Between Scene. She stocks up on special occasion apparel suitable for cotillions, bat mitzvahs and birthday parties from lines like Un Deux Trios, Blush and Sister Sam. Kubera said she would like to see even more age-appropriate special occasion wear. Given the market she serves, she feels as if she’s always walking a tightrope between offering looks that girls won’t find babyish and winning moms’ approval. For fall, Kubera is returning to her original strategy
of stocking sizes 7 to 14 for girls and 8 to 20 for boys. For the past two years, she had brought in girls’ 4 to 6X due to customer demand. However, “We’re so strong in tween that people didn’t know we carried the smaller sizes,” she reported. Kubera would like to see more lines—both casual and dressy—continue their run through size 16. “We have girls who are 10 or 11 who have already outgrown our store,” she said. “It’s tough for moms who have nowhere else to go.” Though Kubera has downsized her boys’ department over the years, she said she has found some success with dresswear. “Customers might go somewhere else for casual wear, but they will spend more on a nice blazer, slacks or shirt,” she said, adding that Ike Behar is her go-to label, while Quiksilver, Volcom and Element rule the casual selection. Today, Between Scene stores make for a kid’s onestop shop, a place where tweens will find everything from underwear to shoes. But Kubera admitted that she had initially underpurchased one important area: gifts. Over time, “I added more accessories because the kids come in looking for birthday gifts,” she said, noting their target price point is about $20 to $25. Jewelry and scarves are the hot items right now, and bright necklaces, Silly Bandz bracelets and customizable Popochos watches are also flying off the shelves. Between Scene recently instituted another way to capture birthday excitement. The stores now host Fashion and Friends parties for the birthday girl and nine of her friends, at which they can participate in a fashion show, sing karaoke, nibble on snacks and receive party favors. The store also compiles wish lists so friends and family can find a perfect gift for every occasion. “I love the age we’re working with because they’re so impressionable. It’s our job to make sure it’s fun,” Kubera said. “I love dressing these kids and seeing their happy faces and having them feel beautiful or handsome and confident.” Kubera knows some people thought it was a little crazy to open a second location at the end of 2008 when the economy had bottomed out, but she was sure her formula for attracting a tween crowd would be embraced in Dallas. “I’m very aware of the economy, but when I shop for my customers, I have to think about what they would want,” she said. “If they like it, the moms are willing to buy it as long as the quality is there and it meets a need. Price is secondary.” •
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PAMPERED Allen Ave. Designs (800) 249-1679 Bholu (310) 897-1020 Calisson (949) 493-5154 Haba USA (315) 685-6660 International Playthings (800) 631-1272 Jellycat (612) 332-3088 Lilliputiens +32 2 467 7039 Plan Toys (866) 517-7526 P’kolino (888) 403-8992
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E A R N S H AW S . C O M • J U N E 2 0 1 0 4 7
THE LOOK
À LA MODE Say ‘oui’ to the season’s très chic trend. by angela velasquez
Baby Togs hoodie and pants set
Chabré by Bailey Boys smocked dress
T-shirt and skirt by Carmelo
Tee by Faigie
Sweater by CR Kids
Infantissima bib
Stroller toy by Mamas & Papas
Tee by Atsuyo et Akiko Jumper by Rosalina
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