Earnshaw's | Infants', Girls', Boys' Wear Review | 2011 • March

INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW • MARCH 2011 $5.00

THE EUROPEAN ISSUE Going Dutch: Claesen’s U.S. CEO Shares Her Holland Experience La Dolce Vita: Our Pitti Bimbo Report Group Buying: Deal or No Deal?

48 West 38th Street, 3rd Floor, NYC 10018 • TEL: 212.391.4143 • www.UnitedLegwear.com

Rita Polidori O’Brien Publisher Jennifer Cattaui Editor in Chief Nancy Campbell Creative Director EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Audrey Goodson Meagan Walker Associate Editors Jacqueline Micucci Contributing Editor Melissa D’Agnese Editorial Intern

MARCH 2011 36

CREATIVE Trevett McCandliss Art Director Tim Jones Sean Murray Senior Designers Jessica Ziccardi Art Assistant ADVERTISING Noelle Heffernan Advertising Director Sarah Sutphin Advertising Manager Alex Marinacci Account Executive Patrick Thomas Sales Representative, Canada Caroline Diaco Special Accounts Manager Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager Maureen Johan Classified Sales ADMINISTRATION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager Julie Gibson Webmaster CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO

FEATURES 26 Briefly, Claesen’s The CEO of Claesen’s USA, Kelley Fitch, dishes about building the Dutch underwear and apparel brand’s presence stateside.

28 Get your Groupon?

Marketing pros and fellow retailers share the secrets to running a successful social promotion.

32 Let’s Go Europe Pitti Bimbo reveals a harvest of eclectic looks for fall, from feminine vintage to military, varsity and outdoorsman.

FASHION 36 Les Enfants des Collines Fall sportswear travels to the French countryside with prairie prints, classic silhouettes and hearty knits.

52 Remix Like a kid in a candy store, a tot finds sweet faves in our Fall ’11 closet.

Above: Peas and Queues sweater; Aigle boots; Blu Pony Vintage jodhpurs. On the cover: Fore!! Axel & Hudson plaid red coat; Peas and Queues plaid shirt; Andrew & Audrey corduroy overalls; Ewers socks; Clarks shoes. Photography by Cleo Sullivan; Fashion Director: Michel Onofrio; Market Editor: Angela Velasquez; Hair & Makeup: Stephen Ramsey at stephenramseyhair.com; Set Designer: Victoria Lee

COLUMNS 10 Nine Things 12 On Trend 18 Spotlight 24 On the Block

NEWS 6 Apparel 8 Licensing

IN EVERY ISSUE 4 Editor’s Letter 50 Calendar 51 Ad Index

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) Vol. 95 Issue 3. The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly (except for bi-monthly April/May and November/ December editions) by 9Threads, 8 W. 38th Street, Suite 201, New York, NY 10018-0150. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by 9Threads. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. 9Threads will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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Fall Renewal

In the spirit of the back-to-school buying season, Earnshaw’s mixes things up.

EDITOR’S LETTER

Now that it’s March, it’s time to think back-to-school, and luckily with show season upon us, we’ve all got our fall hats on. Fall is my favorite time in fashion, with jewel tones and deep colors, warm knits and layers. It’s a time of change—a new class, new schedule, new friends.

In the spirit of change, we’ve switched up a few things in this issue. We’ve reorganized a bit and tweaked our trend pages to truly make them sing. We’ve covered some great brands that are steeped in history—on this side of the pond and across. Our retail spotlight features an amazing boutique in Springfield, MO, that underwent a renovation to remember. (We look forward to celebrating more inspiring retailers, so let us know what you’re up to!)

We also covered the collections at Pitti Bimbo with the help of our on-the-ground correspondent Francesca Sammaritano, an assistant professor at Parsons New School for Design. As always, the fashions were beautiful, with artisanal detailing, precision tailoring and dramatic presentation. Speaking of enchanting European appeal, our fashion pages—shot by acclaimed photographer Cleo Sullivan—are a study in Scandinavian storybook simplicity, with prints, kerchiefs, chunky knits and vests. It’s a dreamy romp through an

idyllic childhood.

As for news, we’re getting to the bottom of the group-buying phenomenon. We all know that sites like Groupon are all the rage amongst the service industry, so we sussed out how retailers can make the most of these deals. Don’t miss tips from those who have tried it: If you’re thinking about giving it a whirl, it’s an essential read. Another key read is our conversation with Claesen’s U.S. CEO, Kelley Fitch, who is building Claesen’s to be a player in the American children’s market. It’s always inspiring to hear the tale of someone who followed her heart and listened to her gut.

The issue ends with a new page, Remix, where we culled a closet full of clothes and accessories from our friends at the showrooms, and let a child go wild to see what she would beeline toward for Fall ’11. It’s grounding to see the fruits of our industry through the eyes of a child.

JENNIFER CATTAUI jennifer.cattaui@9threads.com

apparel news Trend Alert: Fancy Pants Forget basic briefs: Vibrant colors, soft fabrics and fun prints spruce up the everyday staples as designers dash to launch underwear lines. New brand Knickerbocker Glory introduces versatile Underouts—comfy yet stylish tops and bottoms for girls that transition from underwear to activewear. Made of a special blend of organic cotton, modal and lycra, the line is available in eight colorways with contrast stitching: black, pink, yellow, blue, white, lavender, green and peach. Camis, capris and shorts with clever names like longbockers, boxerbockers and bikerboxers wholesale for $8.50 to $11. Call (888) 400-2431 or visit www.knickerbocker-glory.com. • Featuring the brand’s signature nature-inspired prints, Kicky Pants bows a line of underwear for boys and girls in sizes 2 to 6 years. Made of bamboo viscose and lycra, the collection includes two-pack sets of boys’ boxer briefs, girls’ panties and boy/girl training underwear. The sets wholesale for $16 to $18. Call (310) 492-5707 or visit www.kickypants.com.

• Known for cool graphic tees, City Threads is launching a line of underwear for sizes 18 months to 6 years. Featuring contrast stitching for extra style, boys’ briefs and boxer briefs wholesale from $3.75 to $4.50 and come in a rainbow of colors, including red, orange, green and a range of blues; girls’ briefs wholesale for $4.25 and come in red, lime, orange, purple, white and shades of pink. Call (213) 612-3710 or visit www.citythreads.net. •

FOR BABY AND MOM Parents have a bold new option for dressing babies thanks to Redsnapper, a collection of one-pieces, T-shirts and matching beanies made of 100-percent, interlock cotton featuring funny catchphrases and bright, modern graphics. Each one-piece includes the brand’s signature red center snap for easy dressing. Available in sizes 0 to 4T, the one-pieces and T-shirts wholesale for $9 to $10.50; the beanies wholesale for $5.50.

Call (937) 470-3860 or visit www.redsnapperbaby.com. • Girls’ apparel brand KidCuteTure reinterprets its edgy, imaginative designs for Kashka, a playful new baby line for sizes 3 months to 4T. The collection includes kimono-style playsuits, coordinates, hats, blankets and dresses, all made using soft jersey cotton. Sporty stripes are a mainstay of the line, which wholesales from $18 to $45. Call (609) 216-7490 or visit www.kidcuteture.com. • Nursing moms receive well-deserved TLC with the launch of 2Jackaroo, a line of cozy nursing and travel pillows made of U.S. certified Memory Foam and easy-snap nursing wraps. All of the items are fabricated in soft, soothing colors and vintage-inspired patterns like paisley, floral and polkadot. The pillows wholesale for $25 to $87.50; the nursing wraps wholesale for $25. Call (704) 325-9727 or visit www.2jackaroo.com. •

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NEW LINES Skylar

Brooklyn Junior

Independent boutique brand Brooklyn Junior is now available for nationwide distribution.

Using soft 100-percent cotton, the brand’s collection includes one-pieces and T-shirts featuring an eclectic array of bold black-and-white graphics in baby-safe dyes, from elephants to headphones and motorcycles to manholes. The collection also includes dresses, tops and kimonos in bright colors and playful prints, such as oversized polkadots and florals, in sizes 3 to 24 months. One-pieces and T-shirts range from sizes 0 to 12 years and wholesale prices range from $12 to $20. Call (347) 7422623 or visit www.brooklynjunior.com. • Torontobased Super Cool Kids Clothing is now available for U.S. distribution. The collection offers soft and

stylish mix-and-match day wear for infants and kids to size 10. With a focus on comfort, the company primarily uses 100-percent cotton knit fabrics, often treated with washes, brushing, or peaching for a super-soft feel. For fall, the collection delivers everything from ruffled skirts to denim jeggings for girls, and corduroy buttondowns and argyle jersey tees for boys. Wholesale prices range from $5 for a baby’s hat to $42 for mid-weight outerwear.

Call (647) 726-0252 or visit www.sckc.ca.• Skylar introduces a line of Eastern-inspired boys’ and girls’ basics in bamboo cotton and sweaterfleece fabrics. For girls, the collection includes tees, leggings, skirts, dresses, kimono tunics, capes and coats; for boys,

Andrew & Audrey

Limeapple Sport

Sailor Rose

tees, pullovers and jackets pair with drawstring pants. Zen-inspired prints—including lotus flowers, peacocks and origami airplanes—spice up the line’s clean silhouettes. Available in sizes 0 to 10 years, the line wholesales from $9.50 to $26. Call (818) 647-1382 or visit www.tinyginger. com. • Canada-based Girl & Company introduces Limeapple Sport for U.S. distribution. The girls’ activewear collection includes apparel and accessories made of stretchy spandex in neon hues, eye-popping prints and basic black.

Perfect for everything from yoga to dance class, the collection includes hoodies, jackets, tanks, tops, leggings, pants, capris, shorts, scooters, gym suits and shrugs for girls’ sizes 4 to 14 and

juniors’ sizes XS, S and M. Accessories—including boots, bubble hats, leg warmers, mittens, scarves and headbands—complete the finished fitness-ready look. Wholesale prices are $7 to $31; call (800) 359-5171 or visit www. limeappleactivewear. com. • Girls’ brand Sailor Rose offers classic, comfortable American-made dresses in timeless prints, including playful paisleys, vintage florals and colorful airplanes. Crafted using Liberty of London 100-percent cotton and American-made organic jersey fabrics, the dresses feature top-quality details, like French seams, shell buttons, and metal zippers. Dresses and separates are available in sizes 2 to 8 years. Wholesale prices range from $60 to $95. Call (347) 280-3440 or visit www.sailorrose.

com. • New England prep meets Ozarks adventure with the introduction of Andrew & Audrey, a new line of boys’ and girls’ apparel in sizes 4 to 14. For girls, the collection mixes classic cardigans, riding pants, henleys and rugbystriped polo dresses with chunky vests and plaid tops perfect for the outdoors. The boys’ items include three-button vests and bow-tie cardigans, as well as a range of basic pants, polos and Oxfords. Featuring a mostly-neutral color scheme, the collection, which wholesales from $15 to $65, is imbued with Americana flair via nautical details, pops of patriotic color, and preppy plaid, polkadot and striped prints. Call (212) 801-2387 or visit www. andrew-audrey.com. •

licensing news Zutano Enlists United Legwear Vermont-based Zutano has added a line of kids’ footwear to their collection. The 22-year-old company recently entered a licensing and design collaboration agreement with United Legwear Company, which will drastically increase Zutano’s reach.

Together, the two will produce children’s shoes, socks, tights and booties.

The shoe collection runs the gamut, including soft-soled slip-ons for pre-walkers, sturdier rubber soles for toddlers, and a line of boys’ sneakers. Kid-friendly designs, such as frogs, trains and kittens adorn the infant line, while the toddler girls’ range is decked out in dainty florals and flashy metallics. Colorful socks, striped knee-high tights and coordinating leg warmers complement the look. As for the boys, kicks come in everything from basic black to funky outer-space patterns.

The two companies are happy to be working together, says Zutano President and co-founder Michael Belenky. “They [United Legwear] are clearly the best in the business and will be ideal partners to help introduce the Zutano brand to larger retail channels.” For wholesale inquiries, e-mail zutano@zutano.com.

Meet Misha LuLu for Hello Kitty Pasadena, CA-based Misha Lulu has signed on with Hello Kitty to produce a co-branded collection of infant and toddler sportswear, appropriately titled Misha Lulu for Hello Kitty. The collection’s initial launch took place at the January ENK Children’s Club in New York City, and consists of comfy Tshirts, leggings, skirts and dresses cut from super soft cotton and rayon. Delicate stitching, vintage-inspired florals and pretty plaids all help to give the line a warm feel. A pair of bell-bottom overalls also appears in the collection, adding a down-home touch with a little sass. All styles are available in infant and toddler sizes, and range from $38 for a T-shirt to $80 for an empire-waist print dress. For wholesale inquiries, e-mail info@ mishalulu.com.

Disney’s Small World Exclusively for Nordstrom In commemoration of the 45th anniversary of the “It’s a Small World” attraction, Disney’s Consumer Products division is introducing a newborn, infant and toddler collection, available exclusively at Nordstrom. Inspired by Mary Blair’s art representing countries around the world, the line will focus on a different country each season, beginning in Spring 2011 with Japan and continuing with India for Summer 2011, Scotland for Fall 2011 and wrapping up with Russia for the 2011 holiday season. The 50-product collection features products from TOMS Shoes, Baby Nay and Petunia Pickle Bottom.

Apparel comes in sizes 0-3 months to 6x.

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Q&A

Ross Misher CEO, Brand Central How will the popularity of character licensing fare in 2011?

Character licensing will continue to stay strong in 2011 and beyond, as kids love to play, interact and imagine with characters. TV licenses continue to grow with new media outlets, such as The Hub and Disney Jr., and strong merchandising pushes at retail.

What licensed products perform well in kids?

Character licensing has a broad spectrum of categories from apparel and accessories to publishing, toys, food, back-toschool and more. Kids love merchandise that reflects their affection for their favorite characters. Apparel and accessories allow self expression for kids so they perform best.

Through these products, they can say—“I love SpongeBob,” or whatever character they like. Other categories, like video games and toys, bring the characters to life in a threedimensional way and allow for a one-on-one interaction.

This enhances the character’s attraction and, in essence, establishes a bond between product and consumer.

How is the character licensing landscape changing?

Characters are now being introduced to kids through various mediums. Character licensing used to be driven by classics, like Mickey Mouse. That still remains true; however, because of the changing landscape, character licensing has developed from areas such as publishing (Fancy Nancy, Pinkalicious), iPhone/iPad apps (Angry Birds) and websites (www.clubpenguin.com). Characters are also coming from infomercials, such as Pillow Pets and Squinkies. Kids are now interacting with media in new ways and brand owners are creating endearing characters to appeal to them.

NINE THINGS Monkey stroller lock

by BuggyGuard

1

Colorful magnetic block set by Tegu

3

The New Yorker Baby Collection

by Silly Souls

2 4

5 Poodle eraser

by Jonathan Adler

Notebook by Sukie

7 Hedgehog bib by Funkie Baby

GIFT WRAP 10 EARNSHAWS.COM • MARCH 2011

Pirate doll by Stuf, available from Wry Baby

6

9

8

Horse lunch bag

by SoYoung Mother

Hooded kimono robe by Beba Bean

Offbeat, eye-catching items spotted at NYIGF are sure to please picky moms.

a e P o n S ®

Extraordinary garments for young sprouts!

www.snopeawear.com

SnoPea logo and “tag line” are registered trademarks of SnoPea, Inc. © 2011 SnoPea, Inc.

For babies only

ON TREND PURPLE

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“THE PURPLE PEOPLE EATER” REACHED NO. 1 ON THE BILLBOARD POP CHARTS IN 1958.

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10 9

Rules of Nobility: Elizabeth wore it.

1 Kicky Pants bird print one-piece 2 & 3 Baby CZ by Carolina Zapf silk dress and bloomers 4 Blindmice sock set 5 Trumpette rain boots 6 Little Giraffe lavender blanket 7 Ce Ce Co sweater dress 8 Elephantito corduroy dress 9 Egg by Susan Lazar hooded sweater 10 Rampage Girls boot 11 HuggyBunny cardigan 12 & 13 Isobella & Chloe tulle dress and coordinating shrug 14 Best of Chums knit booties.

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ON TREND SOUTHWESTERN

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5 6 1graphic floral print dress by Masala Baby 2 Me Too tunic and sweater vest 3 Coastal Projections beaded Mary Jane 4 Tea Collection striped party dress 5 Nowali moccasins 6 Stella Industries dress 7 Tatiri pom-pom necklace 8 Huggalugs leg warmers 9 Mim-Pi chunky knit vest 10 & 11 ethnic-inspired print tunic and turquoise leggings by Haven Girl 12 multi-colored lined jacket

by Siaomimi.

La Fiesta: Color & prints enliven the fall landscape.

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East Coast The Rose Garden 212.564.5100 Southeast Joyce Nilsson 704.5451.5443 Southwest The Klein Group 214.637.5111 West Kids du Monde 213.689.8779 Canada Harry Schwartz 514.213.2919

CalabreseGirl.com

ON TREND SUPERHERO

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COMIC RELIEF: SUPER GIFTS TO THE RESCUE! 1 Jannuzzi blanket and burp cloth set 2 City Threads twofer 3 Cozy & Free hoodie 4 Acme tee 5 Knuckleheads twofer 6 Kids Ink tee 7 Kid O D.I.Y. cape kit 8 Western Chief umbrella 9 North American Bear Co. tooth fairy doll 10 Wry Baby caped one-piece 11 Me Too jacket

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limeapple

For all girls for all times www.limeapple.ca

1.800.359.5171

SPOTLIGHT APPAREL

“YOU CAN SEE THAT THE COLLECTION IS REALLY BECOMING SOPHISTICATED.” Little Paul & Joe sparkles for Fall ’11.

Parisian Prowess Fifteen years have passed since Sophie Albou, fashion designer and graduate of the French Fashion Institute, presented her first-ever professional collection. She went against the grain of the times, producing a men’s line that was retro, colorful and fresh against the grungy backdrop of the ’90s. It was a huge success, and from that point forward, the Paul & Joe brand grew and grew—adding womenswear and junior lines as well as a kids’ collection, Little Paul & Joe. When Albou launched Little Paul & Joe in 2007, she tapped the same suppliers and manufacturers that make the adult line, and it just didn’t work, says Julien Haggiag, vice president of retail accounts. “She [Albou] learned that to go into the kids’ business, you need to have factories that specialize in kids’

18 EARNSHAWS.COM • MARCH 2011

manufacturing,” he says.

Little Paul & Joe kids’ collection is designed for ages 4 to 12 and primarily features takedowns of the brand’s bestselling adult styles. The fall collection pulls together fragments of menswear and retro styling with a rough-andtumble rocker edge. Mini tuxedo dresses for girls and tight tweed jackets for boys front the menswear trend, while varsity letter jackets, graphic baseball and Henley-style tees lead the retro look. Prints and capes, two of Albou’s favorites at the moment, are also prominent parts of the fall line. “You can see that it’s becoming sophisticated and that’s really what Sophie likes to see for kids,” Haggiag says. Little Paul & Joe wholesales from $35 to $120. For more information, visit www.paulandjoe.com.

—Meagan Walker

Mayoral jumps the pond.

Spanish Reign This year, Mayoral Group, the leading brand of childrenswear in Spain, celebrates its 70th anniversary as it makes its official debut into the U.S. market. Although Mayoral has shipped directly to stores in the U.S. for at least seven years, just last July it amped up its presence, establishing a sales and marketing division in the States. For U.S. buyers, the brand offers its baby and mini collections, fitting 3-to-24-month-olds and 1-to8-year-olds, respectively. Outside of the U.S., the company also caters to newborns, as well as junior girls and boys ages 8 to 16.

Owned by the Dominguz family for all these years, Mayoral started as a socks and hosiery company during World War II and transitioned to children’s outerwear in the ’60s and ’70s amidst a baby boom, says Adam Herman, director of Mayoral USA. Currently distributing kids’ fashion to more than 50 countries around the world, Mayoral has doubled its business in the past five years alone.

Browsing the brand’s display at Thread Showroom in New York, hangers are loaded with whimsical florals, hooded faux fur jackets and velvet shorts for girls. Boys’ looks are decidedly motor club-inspired with spades of cargo pants, plaid and elbow patches.

Herman adds that the company name translates to “captain of the bullring,” undeniably fitting for this children’s fashion powerhouse now pleasing crowds Stateside. The Fall ’11 wholesale prices range from $12 to $14. For more information, visit www. threadshowroom.com. –M.W

© Us Angels 2011

ATLANTA - THE CHILDREN’S CLOTHESHORSE - 404.524.8897 CHICAGO - CHICAGO GALLERY - 312.751.6800 DALLAS - THE CLOSET - 214.634.2402 LOS ANGELES - DON WELBORN & ASSOCIATES - 213.688.4953 NEW YORK - THE SHOWROOM - 212.947.3443 CORPORATE OFFICE - 213.624.4477 VISIT US AT: WWW.USANGELS.COM

SPOTLIGHT ACCESSORIES

Stack Attack

Adorned

by Aidah Like vibrant, fruit-colored garlands, Aidah Jewelry is fun and fresh, with just the right amount of sweet.

Strung with chunky wooden beads and faceted baubles, the brand’s collection of necklaces and bracelets were designed by jeweler Lindsey Cates. After studying jewelry making and metal working in college, Cates honed her craft in Florence, Italy, and had been designing jewelry for more than a decade when her daughter was born. “I wanted my daughter, Aidah, now 3 and a 1/2, to have jewelry made with the same quality and materials as I would wear,” Cates says. “For too long children’s jewelry has seemed to fall through the cracks in regards to quality craftsmanship, materials and design,” she adds. The kaleidoscopic beads are as lovely in composition as construct.

“I made the jewelry kidfriendly by making it beautiful. Kids pick up on beauty and design much more than we know,” she notes. Jewelry wholesales from $6 to $8. For more information, visit aidahjewelry.com

20 EARNSHAWS.COM • MARCH 2011

While brainstorming what would be the next tween craze to sweep the nation, Stacy Gross banked on bracelets, already a staple on adolescent wrists, which she thought could be further personalized to match any mood or whim. So, she started Stackable Statements, a wearable Facebook status for the social-network generation. Some bracelets feature contractions like “I’m,” “You’re,” and “That’s,” while others simply boast nouns like “bestie” and “BFF.” The leather bands stack up the arm to make a statement piece. She and her partner Meg Eiten designed the jewelry, and chose the fonts, words and symbols. “The first batch of 6,000 bracelets sold out,” says Gross, who promptly ordered 10,000 more. She bowed the line at ENK Children’s Club in January to much success.

“My partner and I were looking for an eye-catching display, and went to the hardware store,” says Gross.

They bought some PVC, and with the help of her partner’s husband, a carpenter by trade, created a huge diamond to display the bangles that was quickly snapped up by a retailer—bracelets included. Items wholesale for $4.50. To order, call Stacy Gross at (631) 942-9594.

Puffer Sophisticate

Dawn of the Dinosaur Hear them roar! Madpax debuts a line of spiky backpacks that are styled snowboarder meets stegosaurus.

Co-founder Tina Huber says the packs “allow the child to express his inner creature.”

Midway through 2010, a friend she’d known since high school, Mike Cordovana, reached out to her with a quirky idea for a product. “He called and said, ‘Tina, I have a crazy idea for a backpack, and you are just lunatic enough to turn it into something.’ I thought, well let’s give it a go,” recalls Huber.

Excited but not totally convinced, the idea was cinched when her son wore the prototype to school. His enthusiasm said it all. “He came home that day and said, ‘Mom, I felt like Jesus—Everyone wanted to touch the bag! Even the 8th graders thought it was cool,’” recalls Huber. Just a few months later, MadPax was voted best new gear at NYIGF. The original Spiketus Rex comes in 10 chromatic colors with soft fabric spikes and four distinct sizes: the fullpack, the halfpack, the nibbler (a lunch box) and the mighty bite, a bag for toys and other essentials.

For wholesale pricing, contact info@madpax.com.

Rebecca Campora knows all about puffer.

She’s been designing footmuffs and carrier covers in puffer material for the stylish urban mom for years.

Her design aesthetic betrays her French roots, as does the company name 7AM Enfant. This year, the brand expanded to include new styles of kids’ gloves and hats and new sleek and shiny materials for the footmuffs and carriers.

For Fall ’11, Campora also designed a suite of stroller hand mitts for parents and caregivers. “I knew that many parents were pushing strollers in the drastically cold weather, while needing to use their bare hands to help their children,” she says. “The tricky part was to create a design that would not alter 7AM’s style.” The faux fur-lined gloves attach to the stroller bar via Velcro and feature the brand’s signature puffer material. Hand mitts wholesale for $19. For more information, visit www.7amenfant.com.

SPOTLIGHT SHOES

The Power to Chooze

Frye Rounds Out Classic boot company Frye adds toddler sizes to the mix for its Fall ’11 offerings. Previously available in pre-walker, youth and adult sizes, the addition of sizes 4 to 10 provides stores the option of carrying a full run of the classic footwear.

Paring down from an impressive 1,800 active SKUs in the adult market, Frye limited toddler choices to seven styles, including the company’s iconic Harness, made of a full-grain leather upper, premium rubber sole, and accented with metal hardware ring detailing. Michael Petry, vice president of design at the Frye Company and former designer at Ralph Lauren and Prada, explains that the toddler styles are generally takedowns from the adult line. “We kept the same aesthetic and applied kid-friendly details on the closures for ease of entry,” Petry says. For Small Frye, that means zippers and quite a few pull-on styles.

The oldest continuously operated shoe company in the United States, Frye has been around since 1863 when it was founded by Englishman John. A. Frye. The company has an incredibly rich history, as both Union and Confederate soldiers wore the boots during the Civil War. Fast-forward a century and Frye again made history in the 1960s, reintroducing the original Campus Boot with a chunky heel and bulky toe. The boot became the epitome of that decade’s style in America, so much so that when the Smithsonian Institute began its search for items to represent that decade, it chose a pair of Frye boots that are still on display today.

Now available to the up-and-coming generation, Frye is sure to capture even more lifelong fans. Petry says the toddler sizes were well received at ENK in January. “We were pleasantly surprised by the response. It speaks volumes about the brand.” The toddler line retails from $58 to $98. To order, e-mail dave.moore@jimlar. com. –Meagan Walker

22 EARNSHAWS.COM • MARCH 2011

Kids’ furniture designer turned shoe designer Sharon Blumberg says that her budding business, Chooze, is as much of a surprise to her as it is to everyone else.“If you told me a year ago that I was going to create this line of shoes, I’d tell you you’re crazy,” she says. Blumberg, whose home furnishings for children were sold in the Neiman Marcus Child catalog, debuts her quirky line of mismatching footwear this fall.

“The idea behind the brand is about celebrating individuality. Kids need to appreciate that we are all different,” Blumberg says. “Any chance we can give them to do something ‘out of the box’—or out of the shoe box, as we say—helps to nurture that creativity.”

Blumberg’s inspiration came from watching her own children express their individuality with their footwear—remixing the shoes in their closets and stepping out with mismatching lefts and rights. Loving the quirky sensibility, Blumberg developed her line of shoes with subtle pattern differences or vibrant color variation between shoes.

The line, available in sizes 10 to 5T and youth sizes 11 to 5, is also vegan, meaning there are no leathers used in production. Each shoe’s outsole is exactly the same, but the fabrics are different. Once launched, Blumberg plans to run contests, inviting kids to design a pattern for the next Chooze shoe.

“Chooze is really all about celebrating the kids’ power of choice—that they get to choose who they want to be,” she says. The line retails from $45 to $48.

For more information, visit www.choozeshoes.com. –M.W.

THE IDEA BEHIND THE WHOLE BRAND IS ABOUT CELEBRATING INDIVIDUALITY.

ON THE BLOCK Springfield, Missouri

Storybook Sensibility Little explorers in Springfield, MO, let their imagination set sail at Jellybeans, a children’s boutique with an interior fit for a whimsical fable. After the boutique changed hands and locations, new owner Meghan Chambers reached out to local interior designer Sharon Taylor to give the shop a new look, asking her to create “a store unlike any she’d seen, with playfulness, style and sophistication.” The result is nostalgic, original and personal—a perfect example of flawless visual merchandising. Although Taylor had designed Chambers’ home nursery, it was her first retail project, which she started by tapping into flea market finds and eBay bargains. “Uncovering a tattered, unappreciated treasure and then helping it dress itself up and go to the ball is my approach,” she explains, noting, “Most people can really identify with that rags to riches fairytale.” The interior’s royal touch culls from antique maps, globes and vintage children’s books. The dressing room features a playing card rug and a cheery yellow accent wall, while a play area beckons with graphic pillows, a modern table, blocks and antique chairs, repainted seafoam green. Adventures are inspired by the shop’s walls, etched with a world map and compass, and the floor doubles as a board for an impromptu game of hopscotch. “I believe in reinventing things: reusing, recycling and finding beauty in not-so-obvious things,” says Taylor. “As the store was dressed more and more each day, I was elated by how beautifully everything turned out,” Chambers says. “The renovation went beyond our greatest expectations.” –J.C.

24 EARNSHAWS.COM • MARCH 2011

Photography By Nathalie Bearden

Once upon a time, a shop called Jellybeans became belle of the ball.

Q &

a

OFF THE CUFF: Last movie: Fantastic Mr. Fox Book by the nightstand: Cowboy & Wills by Monica Holloway Favorite getaway: Acadia National Park Afternoon in Holland: Strolling down the pedestrian streets in Haarlem.

Band on your iPod: The xx Early bird or night owl: Night owl!

Photograph

by Ashley O. Curry

2 6 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • M A R C H 2 0 1 1

BRIEFLY, CLAESEN’S

Kelley Fitch dishes about her eight-year (and counting) partnership with the Dutch underwear and fashion brand.

“I HAVE WANDERING feet,” Kelley Fitch, partner and CEO of Claesen’s USA, says. The 43-year-old executive has been importing and distributing Claesen’s to the American market for eight years now, and with a presence in more than 300 U.S. stores, Fitch is always contemplating her next move.

Fitch, who was born in Chapel Hill, NC, and lived in Paris and Italy when she was young, developed a taste early on for the European sensibility in clothes.

She remained in Chapel Hill as a young mother and has since relocated to Portland, ME. Upon the birth of her third child, she was inspired with a friend to open a store with affordable everyday clothes for kids. “My father had some [air] mileage built up and he urged us to go to a children’s trade fair in Europe to see what was interesting,” she says. “We flew to Brussels and saw a lot of brands that we liked. Some had been imported to the U.S. before, and some hadn’t.”

Excited to be back on European soil, Fitch decided to take a roadtrip from Brussels to Holland and make personal visits to brands she liked. En route to another vendor she gave Claesen’s a quick call to ensure they were savvy about exporting to the States. As Fitch remembers, “They said, ‘America Calling,’ when they answered the phone and invited us to come to their warehouse in Haarlem. We went and ended up staying through two meals. We really liked them: They were good people.”

Clearly Fitch hit it off with husband-and-wife team Gerard and Debora Blaauw, and when she returned to the States, she decided not to open a store, but rather commit to one brand: Claesen’s.

Why Claesen’s?

I was attracted to the brand, and we were looking for an underwear line. A French family with whom I lived sent me Petit Bateau, which the kids and I loved. It was all but impossible to find those types of garments in North Carolina at the time. When I began with Claesen’s, it was a nice underwear line that was just beginning to expand into fashion. Now there are 300 to 350 pieces a season. Claesen’s has great quality and it’s designed in fun prints. But I’d say the main reason was I really liked the people behind it.

How did you first get the word out?

In 2003, we rented a 5-by-5 booth at ENK Children’s Club, but we didn’t have a rep yet. So we had this tiny booth and the boxes kept coming. We had no idea how much product we could show in that space; we were flowing out into the aisles. But we received great reception at the show.

Do you give design feedback to Debora about the mood of the U.S. market?

Yes. Everything is designed in Holland, but the market

is really different in the U.S. in terms of colors and patterns and what is gender appropriate. Branding was overstated at one point, but now has toned down and the logo is incorporated into graphics. The last few collections have really stepped up—especially for boys. The girls’ [collection] was always strong. We have focused most recently on how CPSIA impacts styling issues, like no drawstrings, compliant inks, and so on.

How did the economy affect your business?

We’ve been around for eight years. We had been growing strong but were hit by the recession. Now we’re back on track to where we were before the dip. My sense is we’re coming out of it. The pricing is still great, despite the extra cost of testing and cotton pricing increases.

How has the rising cost of cotton impacted you?

It’s increased the cost of goods but also affected our cash flow because producers don’t want to get caught with the risk. We have to pay up front—20, 30, 40, 50 percent. No one likes paying more money. You get in a certain rhythm with cash flow, but now you have to make this advance at order time to make sure they have the raw materials at fixed prices.

Did you have to deal with currency volatility?

I always bought in dollars. When I first started, I went to a friend of my parents who has imported beautiful Italian plates for years, and she said, “Always get a U.S. dollar price—don’t buy in a foreign currency, and don’t do wholesale and retail.”

How is Holland different than America?

In Holland, school starts in September, so their big sales season is in August. When we deliver in August, it stretches the suppliers—they have to get it tested and get the tracking labels on quickly. We’ve had times when we’ve had to close orders before the major ENK show. And it’s a different business in the U.S. The Netherlands is so small; they only have four reps covering the whole country. Here, with only seven reps covering all the U.S., our marketing efforts—catalogs, e-blasts, trade fairs, showroom visibility, occasional advertising, Web presence—are all essential.

Any other unexpected differences?

Claesen’s underwear is almost all pre-packed in a set of two or three. But the undershirts come single.

When I asked about it they said, in the Netherlands, you have to change your underpants once a day but your undershirt every two days.

—Jennifer Cattaui

M A R C H 2 0 1 1 • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 2 7

GET YOUR GROUPON? More and more retailers are using social-buying sites to boost business, but it’s a risky bet. Follow these top tips from marketing pros and fellow retailers to avoid the most common social-promotion pitfalls.

By Audrey Goodson

a good reminder to come back, too. From that perspective it’s been GROUP-BUYING SITES are hotter than ever, and it’s no wonder: worthwhile.”

Offering deep discounts at businesses in hundreds of local markets, “We always position Groupon as a marketing spend,” explains Groupon and its competitors are a bargain shopper’s dream come Groupon spokesperson Kelsey O’Neill. “This is something that true. But the reality can be a nightmare for retailers who offer steep you’re going to do instead of buying ad space, because you’re going to discounts without sufficient preparation. reach thousands of consumers you’ve never reached before.” Since Marketing experts urge merchants to use common sense when the social-promotion concept is relatively new, the verdict is still out signing up for a social promotion. The extraordinary bargains—at on whether the long-term benefits of luring lots of new customers least 50 percent off—usually mean the retailer will lose money, espeoutweigh its short-term costs, but an increasing number cially since many deal sites require stores to split the sales of retailers think the risk is worth the gamble. Interested of the coupon 50/50. That means a retailer who offers $40 in getting your Groupon? Or LivingSocial? Or being a worth of merchandise for $20 is actually receiving $10 for Daily Dealster? Be sure to follow these top tips. $40 worth of merchandise—not even enough to cover the cost of goods.

“You really do lose money on it,” confirms Allison POPULAR SITES Montague, owner of Snapdragon Boutique in Grand KNOW YOUR GOAL Groupon Rapids, MI. Montague sold 895 coupons for $30 worth of “I don’t think every single business benefits from a proBuyWithMe children’s apparel for $15. Despite the financial loss, she’s motion like this,” says Utpal M. Dholakia, an associate LivingSocial happy she used the service. “It’s been a good marketing professor of management at Rice University, who surtool,” she explains, for attracting a “significant number” of veyed 150 businesses that used social promotions, like Tippr new customers. “And for our existing customers, it’s been Groupon, between June 2009 and August 2010. “They

28 EARNSHAWS.COM • MARCH 2011

Social-promotion deals can be complicated, time consuming and expensive—but may lead to loads of new customers.

Still interested? Follow this basic breakdown for success:

STEP 1

STEP 2

STEP 3

STEP 4

STEP 5

STEP 6

GAME PLAN

GET READY

GO LIVE

FIRST DAY

CASH FLOW

HOME STRETCH

Start by determining the terms of your deal with a reputable group-buying site—including the length of the promotion, discount amount and any exclusions.

Depending on the service, your deal can be ready for the Web in as little as a week.

hg hg g h hg Spruce up your website, stock your inventory and train your employees on ringing in the coupon and keeping your customers happy. Develop a plan for upselling and devise tactics to keep buyers coming back.

$ 2 3 4 5 $

customer@mail.com Your promotion will be e-mailed to hundreds, or even thousands, of shoppers in your area.

Buyers have anywhere from 24 hours to a week to purchase, depending on the site.

work better for businesses that are new, that don’t have established customer bases, are struggling or have had a change in management,” he explains.

That’s why Lauren Gogolak used BuyWithMe to promote her Arlington, MA-based children’s boutique, Wild Child. “When we ran our deal, we had moved to a new location and we ran it to promote the new location.” For other retailers, social promotions can be a handy way to whittle down old merchandise. “We did it in December when we were trying to get rid of all of our fall stuff. I didn’t have to discount my merchandise as much to get rid of it,” says Carolyn Goldman, co-owner of Uptown Kids in Oklahoma City, who says she decided to use the promotion in lieu of markdowns. “Since we’re a new company, we’ve tried not to do a lot of sales because I don’t want to be known as the sales store.”

Social promotions can also be a good way to reach customers who might consider boutique prices beyond their budget, says Scott Kominers, a Ph.D. candidate in business economics at Harvard, who co-authored a study on social-promotion sites. Services like

Anywhere from 80 to 800 new customers may walk through your door—some as early as day one—to redeem their deal. Many come within the first few months.

Don’t forget to collect contact info, like e-mail addresses.

7 8 9 10 11 $ Some sites pay vendors immediately after selling the deal, while others will pay you in installments over the life of the promotion (anywhere from six months to a year, typically).

Get ready for another round of shoppers near the promotion’s expiration date.

Be prepared to handle procrastinators who missed the deadline but still want to redeem the deal. Be sure to use Facebook, Twitter and e-mail to keep in touch with your new customers.

Groupon give retailers the chance to make the case to budgetminded buyers that their wares are worth the price. “You might get people who are low-valuation consumers but become high-valuation consumers when they discover they really like the product,” he explains. But Dholakia warns that price-sensitive shoppers are less likely to come back the second time and pay full price. “When the deal goes away, they’re not going to come back. They’re going to go to the next deal.”

One way to cut down on one-time bargain hunters is to list deals on family-friendly or mom-targeted deal sites, says Artie Wu, CEO of Mamapedia, an online community for moms that offers a “Sweet Deals” daily e-mail featuring discounts on familyfriendly products and services in 12 cities across the U.S. “What you don’t have on Mamapedia are the professional deal seekers.

Our audience is moms, and the beauty of a mom is she doesn’t have a lot of time. Once she knows that you’re family-friendly, she is a fiercely loyal consumer because she needs solutions in her local area she can rely on.”

MARCH 2011 • EARNSHAWS.COM 29

UPSELL, UPSELL, UPSELL

One way to keep a social promotion from bleeding into your bottom line is upselling beyond the face value of the coupon, Dholakia suggests. In his survey, 66 percent of respondents said they turned a profit using Groupon and other social promotions, but the businesses with unprofitable promotions reported significantly lower rates of spending by Groupon users beyond face value of the deal. “I would say at least half have definitely come in and spent what they needed to use their Groupon, but I’ve been pleasantly surprised by the amount [of people] that have gone over,” says Montague. She estimates that she’s been able to upsell to around 20 percent of Groupon users.

Goldman suggests retailers structure the price of their deal so that customers are likely to spend more than their promotion amount.

At Uptown Kids, 467 people purchased Goldman’s Groupon offer for $60 worth of merchandise for $30, but since most items in her store are $40 and over, many Groupon users spent exactly $60. Next time she says she will offer $40 worth of merchandise for $20—making it more likely that customers will spend more than their coupon amount.

“Whenever customers come in our store, my staff is supposed to ask them to fill out an information sheet with their name, address and e-mail,” Goldman says, noting that she’s used the information to stay in touch with her Groupon customers about new merchandise and sales. She also uses Facebook and Twitter to communicate with her clientele and used the sites to promote the sale of the Groupon—something that pleased her loyal followers on Facebook.

Dholakia recommends structuring social promotions in ways that force customers to come back again and again—for example, instead of offering one large discount, offer three smaller coupons that must be used on separate purchases. “The whole idea is to try and make the customer a relational customer. And getting them in the door just once probably isn’t going to cut it. If you can force them to come back a few times, you will have a better chance of converting them into loyal customers.” But Kominers warns that it’s unlikely to be profitable if you allow customers to repeatedly receive the discounted price. “If the new customers attracted by the voucher promotion use vouchers every time they visit, then they will never become positive-margin customers,” he warns.

KEEP ’EM COMING BACK

LIMIT YOUR MERCHANDISE

Experts and retailers agree: The key to making any social promotion successful is to turn deal addicts into lifetime customers. “You need to figure out another way to get them back again to buy something at a regular price,” says Lisa Starbuck, co-owner of Psychobaby boutique in Chicago. “We offered them a coupon for 20 percent off their next visit.”

“I put no limitations and no restrictions. When someone came in and went to the sales rack, I just dug myself a hole,” says Candace Khashman, owner of Peek-a-Boo Couture in Charlotte, N.C. Gogolak avoided this pitfall by stipulating that the deal could not be combined with other sales and promotions, but she notes that it “was hard and frustrating” to reinforce the policy. “Some people were a little put off by it, which is crazy in my mind because you can’t discount an item by 100 percent.”

Dholakia also suggests this strategy: “Try to sell items that are less popular, running out, lower quality or late season,” he advises.

Several retailers reported running Groupon promotions at the end of the season to clear out older inventory. Instead of emphasizing end-of-season items, Starbuck saved money by steering customers to Psychobaby’s in-house brand of customized tees and personal items. “Our margins on that [line] are significantly higher than the margins we can get on any other product. We focused on that when people were coming in to redeem so it wasn’t quite as painful.”

SELECT THE SITE CAREFULLY

In a marketplace overpopulated with Groupon knock-offs both beneficial and ineffective, the big question for many merchants is which social-promotion site to choose. “In my sample, Groupon was the outperformer and everyone else was significantly worse,” Dholakia says, although he notes his sample was relatively small. “Groupon is much higher on the learning curve,” he explains. “Many of these other sites are very new shoestring operations. They don’t know how to help small businesses do promotions like this.”

“Overall the experience behind-the-scenes with Groupon was really wonderful,” Starbuck confirms. “They were helpful when setting our deal and they provided tons of background information.”

Starbuck adds that Groupon has an iPhone app for merchants “that makes the redemption process so simple and so easy I couldn’t imagine doing it any other way.”

However, Groupon’s competitors have several major advantages.

First, many other sites offer a better share of the profit to the retailer. For example, LivingSocial typically takes 30 to 50 percent from

the deal, says company spokesperson Maire Griffin, as opposed to Groupon’s 50 percent split. Second, many sites— like BuyWithMe and Mamapedia—run their deals online for up to seven days, wheareas Groupon’s flash sales come and go in 24 hours. Wu says that’s part of the reason why Mamapedia has proven so successful with moms. “What they don’t like about other sites is they get back to their computers at the end of the day and the sale is already over.”

KEEP YOUR STAFF SMILING

these retailers made sure to train their employees to gather contact information, like addresses and e-mail.

Dholakia agrees that this type of preparation is key. “What the business owner or manager is trying to do is bring in new customers and convert them to loyal customers. When customers come in and are confronted with disgruntled and dissatisfied employees, and are treated with poor service, the inclination to come back is washed away.” Retail strategist Bob “The Retail Doctor” Phipps warns that dissatisfied Groupon customers can lead to loads of bad publicity and a precipitous drop in a store’s online ratings on sites like Yelp. His blog includes a 10-part series describing the dangers of social-buying sites. “The very thing that makes Groupon and its online clones powerful is that they’re all socially driven.

So if [Groupon users] try and get an exception to your policy and you don’t give it to them, they’re going to rail all over their social network, and that’s potentially going out to thousands of people.”

Of course, glowing reviews have the potential to reach thousands of customers as well, and that’s the ultimate goal for many of the businesses who choose to use Groupon and its ilk—to generate buzz that brings an increasing number of shoppers coming back again and again. For many retailers in a tough marketplace, it’s a gamble that may just be worth taking. •

Groupon has an iPhone app for merchants “that makes the redemption process so simple and so easy I couldn’t imagine doing it any other way.”

Somewhat surprisingly, the single most important factor in a successful social promotion is employee satisfaction, according to the results of Dholakia’s survey. “For the majority of the businesses that didn’t succeed, it was because they went into it without much thought. They didn’t have plans in place for their employees on how to deal with the customers,” he explains.

Successful retailers made special preparations to handle the influx of customers. Montague prepared for her Groupon customers by beefing up her staffing during the deal’s first month, while Starbuck spruced up her inventory. Goldman made sure to watch Groupon’s tutorial and trained her staff at Uptown Kids on how to ring in a Groupon sale on her computer system, as well coached them on how to explain that the tax is not included. All of

F E M I N I N E D E TA I L S , C O L L E G I AT E ST Y L E A N D M I L I TA R Y M A R K I N G S R U L E D T H E R U N WAY AT P I T T I B I M B O

LET’S GO EUROPE Words by Jennifer Cattaui, Reporting by Francesca Sammaritano

Buyers were out in force at Italian trade show Pitti Bimbo, scoping the European Fall/Winter ’11 collections. At the sized-down houses of Fendi, Paul Smith and Gaultier, and children’s classic ateliers like Tartine et Chocolat, Simonetta and I Pinco Pallino, feminine, handcrafted details were aplenty. The prepster was back with pleated skirts and varsity jackets, as was a WWII military influence illustrated by an abundance of aviator jackets, cargos and shearling-lined bombers. Although the vowel shapes

Fracomina Mini

I Pinco Pallino

Miss Blumarine Monnalisa

VINTAGE FEMININITY Fall’s knits ranged from fun and frilly to granny-chic loaded with of details. Galliano’s girls reveled in lace butterfly bows, white ruffles and ribbons, while I Pinco Pallino’s couture detailing, including hand embroidery in wool, petit point and cross-stitch was sublimely artisanal. Moving away from the Victorian influence of last year, WGSN Kidswear Editor Fiona Coleman notes that “feminine details felt more retro—1920s and 1950s—like flapper tiered ruffled garments, full circle skirts and fur coats with wide crop sleeves.”

The runways also revealed a delicate, ladylike vintage feeling, earmarked by lacy fabrics, ruffles, pleating, velvet and jacquard right out of grandma’s closet, says Patty Leto of trend forecasting firm The Doneger Group. “For some brands, it even transcends into accessories and shoes.”

Fashion Snoops’ Lilly Berelovich called the trend “Mongolian Princess,” pointing to the Bohemian sensi-

bility. “Last year girls were woodsy and folkloric, whereas this year, I saw a Russian influence and an ethnic feel, through the use of embellishment, deeper pinks, embroidery and layering.”

Fiona Jenvey, CEO of British forecasting firm Mudpie Ltd., and Sarah Wade, editor of their online arm, agree that for 2011, fashion goes back to the basics, but notes that arts and crafts are regaining popularity. “There is a crucial inspiration coming from Scandinavia, with radical handicrafts combining age-old techniques, such as crochet with a modern, almost digital feel. Native Fair Isle prints and the use of eco fabrics also influence the look.”

Berelovich sees a darker counterpoint on the horizon, with a black-laced mystical look supplanting the rebellious skulls and leather of previous seasons. She calls it a “dark fairy tale” with beautiful lace and antique detailing. Designers like Miss Blumarine and Elsy wove such tales on the catwalk this season.

Photos courtesy of Pitti Bimbo

I Pinco Pallino

were certainly present (A-line, trapeze and bubble), the most interesting new silhouette was a slimmed down harem pant. The predominant color story was gray, but other popular hues ranged from neutrals—like olive greens, icy blues and quiet off-whites—to a vibrant pink that could shock the likes of Elsa Schiaparelli.

Style-wise, the collections promise a strong 2011 where shoppers are wooed back to the fantasy of fashion.

WIDE OPEN SPACES Coleman says one of the biggest trends is still “The Great Outdoors.” Knitwear was layered, and maxi sweaters and cardigans were consistently paired with leggings.

Of course, there were copious kinds of coats on the runways, too, from a more tailored puffer, to parkas and duffle coats.

“There was alternative outerwear coming down the runway,” Leto says. Fabrics, like leather and waxed cottons, were mixed with wool or nylon, to a fresh effect as seen at Galliano. “There was a new twist on quilted jackets that was refreshing,” says Coleman, pointing to the tailored cuts and over embroidery seen in several collections. Chanel was also clearly influential this season, as many collections featured boucle jackets reminiscent of the house.

Fur was a recurring accent throughout the collections, used around the neck and hood, as headgear, on cuffs and on boots.

For more extreme weather, there were arctic influenced sporty tech puffer coats, like the bright versions at Stone Island Junior. C.P. Company’s padded jackets took inspiration from outerwear used on early 1900s high altitude expeditions, where the use of cotton ensured breathability and lightness.

Miss Grant

Blauer Junior

G.I. JOES AND JANES Just as in adult, military styling marches on, Fashion Snoops’ Berelovich confirms. “This is the third season that military is still out there.” With some relief, she notes that Miss Grant articulated this trend in an interesting girly way, with sergeant-style details, mixing military with equestrian.

Coleman observes that the trend has moved from a formal to relaxed military look. “Last winter was about a more regimented military. There is still a lot of that frogging detail on jackets and military buttons, but it’s softer this year—a lot more khaki, camouflage, leather and shearling.” This season’s military look employed slim shapes and a streamlined color palatte. Colors included air force blues, desert storm khakis and olive greens.

Leto sees some lines moving from military to utilitarian, with clothes giving off a uniformed worker feel. “This transition started in young men’s. It’s about uniforms, overalls, carpenters and constructive layering.”

Fracomina Mini

Elsy

M A R C H 2 0 1 1 • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 3 3

IVORY TOWER The preppy trend persists, Berelovich says, indicating that this is the second season we’ve seen what she calls the “Ivy League influence.” Coleman sees iterations of American varsity with notes of High School Musical in many collections. For instance, Galliano showed a varsity jacket for babies, and brands like Little Paul & Joe and Essential Girl featured tongue-and cheek-versions with logos on cardigans and jackets. Coleman says she was surprised by the trend. “We saw it peak last season, so to see it again is quite unusual as it hasn’t even been tweaked but is classic varsity as we know it.”

Silvian Heach

Sarabanda

Elsy

Ice Iceberg 34 EARNSHAWS.COM • MARCH 2011

COLOR ME EXTREME “By far the most evident color at the show was gray, in every shade and often layered,” Coleman says. She warns that gray is not a commercial color, remembering the last time it was this prevalent on the runways: “Eight or nine years ago, when gray was big, the sell through was terrible,” she says. “It’s the classic color of the British school uniform.”

Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute, says honeysuckle is the color of 2011. “I have seen far more graphics used on toys, games and Saturday morning anime cartoons in hot pink for both boys and girls,” Eiseman observes. The runways reinforced this, with collection after collection, including I Pinco Pallino and Simonetta, showing pieces in the reddish-pink color.

Miss Blumarine

Woolrich

LISTEN AND LEARN

Still in the midst of a shaky economy, business trends continue to play a big role in designers’ decisions. Some brands, like Replay & Sons, went back to their core offer, ending their 0-to-2-year-old line and reducing their prices. I Pinco Pallino now designs diffusion lines so they can be mixed and matched, giving clients the option to splurge on a single piece, while keeping the outfit within the Italian fashion house, Coleman notes. These moves represent a closer relationship with the end consumer, as companies continue to understand and respond to their customers’ needs and wants. Berelovich feels that with social media keeping customers close, “it’s an interesting time for brands. The brands getting invested in their target audience—they will do well and win.”

John Galliano Kids M A R C H 2 0 1 1 • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 3 5

Andrew & Audrey sweater vest; Wheat flannel shirt; Peas and Queues olive trousers; rubber boots by Aigle; vintage leather bag.

36

37

From left: Ralph Lauren sweater vest; Serendipity henley; tweed pants by Fore!!

Axel and Hudson; Wheat kerchief.

Center:Sailor Rose dress; Wheat sweater and kerchief; Ewers tights. Right: Wheat dress and kerchief; Ewers tights.

38

39

From left: Sailor Rose dress; Ewers tights; rubber boots

by Aigle; vintage hat.

Right: Blu Pony Vintage jacket; Sailor Rose dress; Ewers tights; vintage shoes.

Opposite Page: Blu Pony Vintage checkered dress; Serendipity sweater; Mali Kids denim skirt; Ewers tights.

40

41

Sailor Rose dress; Peas and Queues fur vest; knit hat by Ralph Lauren.

42 42

43

Blu Pony Vintage coveralls; Wheat cardigan; Prada ankle boots; Ewers socks.

Opposite page: Sailor Rose dress; Wheat vest; Ralph Lauren cableknit cardigan; Ewers tights; vintage shoes.

Fashion Director: Michel Onofrio Market Editor: Angela Velasquez Hair & Makeup: Stephen Ramsey Set Designer: Victoria Lee

44

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East Coast Thread Showroom (212) 801-2387 terra@threadshowroom.com West Coast Metropolitan Kids (213) 489-0830 michael@metrokidsla.com Contact us: robert@andrew-audrey.com.

MILLIONS OF COLORS “Who can take a sunrise, sprinkle it with dew Cover it in chocolate and a miracle or two The candy man, the candy man can The candy man can ‘cause he mixes it with love And makes the world taste good.”

—Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory For girls ages 2 to 14 years www.millionsofcolorsny.com Visit us at the Duo Showroom Booth at ENK, booth #9017.

To view the line, visit our reps: Midwest Robert Centen & Associates (312) 464-0999 heidicenten@sbcglobal.net East Coast Duo Showroom (212) 354-2371 robin@duokids.com

Dallas Showroom The Klein Group (214) 637-5111 heidicenten@sbcglobal.net

West Coast Metropolitan Kids (213) 489-0830 michael@metrokidsla.com

Atlanta Showroom The Klein Group (404) 221 0520 mk8280@aol.com

MINI TREASURE KIDS

MARILI JEAN Marili Jean Accessories is a growing company that has created a fresh product in the children’s industry. A business that started as small sketches from a mom’s kitchen has grown into a hat and accessory line represented in boutiques throughout the country. Many of their hats are accompanied by one of their classic Marili Jean flower barrettes in your choice of color. Marili Jean Accessories focuses on comfort, quality, and a little pizzazz. The Spring 2011 collection is currently available. The Fall 2011 collection will debut at the ENK Children’s Club show in March.

Parents won’t have to dress their children in boring winter apparel with the new Mini Treasure Kids Winter 2011 range. This latest collection combines winter essentials with class!

It delivers everything a kid needs: comfort and warmth, intricate detail and contemporary fashion. Light and dark hues are coupled with splashes of color and pizzazz.

Our timeless looks deliver durability and style. Dress up the kids in smart and chic attire this winter!

Visit us at ENK, booth #9320.

To view our new winter collection please contact us at: sales@minitreasurekids.com

For girls and boys, newborns and tweens. www.marilijean.com marili_jean@yahoo.com, 1-888-6MARILI

or our agents at: East coast Tiny Ginger Showroom Tel: 646.645.9773 Tinyginger@gmail.com

THE PREPPY PEANUT Preppy Peanut Accessories offers a fun yet elegant Southern flair! We love traditional colors and patterns that make children feel beautiful or handsome, while showing their personalities!

Please view our website for a sales representative in your area or contact us directly at: customerservice@thepreppypeanut.com. www.ThePreppyPeanut.com Find us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/thepreppypeanut

MALI KIDS Fall/Winter 2011 This season Mali Kids continues to concentrate on its creative and exciting use of classic denim that is sturdy yet youthful. Fall/Winter 2011 offers pretty elements without overwhelming the playful feel.

Silhouettes are clean and simple.

The colors are fun with a variety of blue shades for denim and multi-colored patterns for plaids, as well as light mauve, gray and charcoal for other fabrics. A perfect combination of various denim washes, creative interior fabrics and contrasting patterns creates a cohesive style for the collection.

Mali Kids Fall/Winter 2011 collection is premised on easy style and lighthearted grace.

Visit Mali Kids at ENK, booth #9206.

Thread KIDS NY (212) 801-2387 X397 www.threadshowroom.com Metropolitan Kids LA (877) 878-3740 www.metrokidsla.com

Contact Mali Kids at: (646) 703-4469/New York (6681) 890-7003/Thailand www.mali-kids.com info@mali-kids.com contact@theparerg.com

CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

MARCH 5-7

Playtime New York 82 Mercer New York, NY (212) 925-6349 www.playtimenewyork.com

6-8

ENK Children’s Club Javits Center New York, NY, (212) 759-8055 www.enkshows.com

12-14

Atlanta International Gift & Home Furnishings Market AmericasMart, Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

14-17

L.A. Kids Market California Market Center

Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3600 www.californiamarketcenter.com

Coraopolis, PA, (740) 965-5555 pfmwoschild@yahoo.com

19-22

Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA, (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

21-25

APRIL

24-27

North Branch Kids Show 1229 N. North Branch 3rd Floor, Chicago, IL www.northbranchkids.com

Northwest Kids Show DoubleTree Southcenter Seattle, WA info@nwkidsshow.com www.nwkidsshow.com NY Kids Market Week 34 W. 33rd Street New York, NY, nykidsmarket.org Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX, (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

27-29

Pittsburgh Fashion Mart Embassy Suites Hotel

31-April 4

1-5

Editor’s Note: Show details are subject to change. Please call the phone numbers or visit the show websites for up-to-date schedules. Show sponsors may send updates to editorialrequests@9threads.com.

under every favorite dress

AD INDEX

Net TULLE Tricot

9Threads ............................................. 21

Little Me ................................................. CIV

ABC Kids Expo ..................................... 25

Mali Kids ................................................. 48

Ambajam................................................ 47

Marili Jean ............................................. 49

AmericasMart Atlanta ......................... 13

Millions of Colors ................................. 48

Andrew & Audrey ................................ 48

Mini Treasure Kids ............................... 49

Baby Banz.............................................. 51

Monkeybar Buddies............................. 50

babysoy .................................................. 51

Mooncakes ............................................. 46

Bows Arts............................................... 46

My NapPak ............................................ 46

www.tutufabric.com Fashion Fabrics

California Market Center .................... CII

NOO ........................................................ 47

Dallas Market Center........................... 7

Pediped .................................................. CIII

United Legwear .................................... 1

In Play Showroom................................ 5

Pink Axle ................................................ 46

Up and Away......................................... 47

Girl & Co./Limeapple .......................... 17

Pink Pewter ........................................... 47

Us Angels ............................................... 19

Huggalugs.............................................. 46

RuffleButts............................................. 46

Western Chief ....................................... 4,

Jamie Rae Hats..................................... 47

SnoPea.................................................... 11

23

Jefferies Socks ..................................... 30

Stella Industries.................................... 31

Yikes Twins ............................................ 46

Joan Calabrese for mon cheri .......... 15

Tatiana .................................................... 31

Zulily ....................................................... 9

Luna Lullaby .......................................... 50

The Preppy Peanut .............................. 49

Zutano .................................................... 2

REMIX

Stylist: Camille Age: 4 Hometown: New York City With a nod to her favorite fairytale characters, our guest stylist Camille mixed practical winter layering pieces with a fantastical tutu, proving toddlers can dress for both function and fashion. The decision wasn’t easy. Torn between two Meg Dana & Co. tutus—a feminine lavender style and one with fuchsia and purple layers—Camille eventually sided with the bolder option, as it was the perfect companion for the bright pink Appaman T-shirt she eyed. Along with a pair of her own leggings, Camille topped the ensemble off with a cozy Appaman sweater vest and earmuffs.

What do you like the best about this outfit? The “earphones” Where would you wear this outfit? To school Who usually chooses your outfit? Me! What are your favorite things to wear? My Hello Kitty barrettes and my shiny shoes.

Photography by Cooper Ray

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Little Me

112 W. 34th Street Suite 1000 NY, NY 10120 212-279-4150 Mark Zelen

www.littleme.com Northeast Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999 Southeast Paul Daubney 404-577-6840 Caribbean/Latin America Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745 West Coast Teresa Stephen 866-723-KIDS Midwest Richard Finkelstein/Al Zaiff 800-935-0236 Texas/Southwest Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446 International Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008 See us at: The Children’s Club NYC, March 6th-8th