Earnshaw's | Infants', Girls', Boys' Wear Review | 2011 • September

BABYBJÖRN TURNS 50 • LURING SHOPPERS WITH EXCLUSIVES • BABY GIFT GUIDE • ABC PREVIEW

INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW

SEPTEMBER 2011 $5.00

Spring

LES KEEP KIDS ON THEIR TOES AT BabyLegs.com/HelloKittyVideo.

6333 1st Avenue South, #8, Seattle, WA 98108 • TEL: 206.734.4000 • www.BabyLegs.com

Extraordinary garments for young sprouts!

www.snopeawear.com

SnoPea logo and “tag line” are registered trademarks of SnoPea, Inc. © 2011 SnoPea, Inc.

a e P o n S

For babies only ®

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Jennifer Cattaui Editor in Chief Nancy Campbell Creative Director

SEPTEMBER 2011

EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor Audrey Goodson Meagan Walker Associate Editors Melissa D’Agnese Editorial Intern

FEATURES 24 Swede Talk Toasting BabyBjörn's 50th anniversary with founder Björn Jakobson and North American distributor Niklas Gerborg of BabySwede.

CREATIVE Trevett McCandliss Art Director Tim Jones Senior Designer CONTRIBUTORS Michel Onofrio Style Director

28 Baby Boom Retailers boost business by helping new parents navigate the world of baby essentials.

ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Sarah Sutphin Broglie Advertising Manager Alex Marinacci Account Executive Patrick Thomas Sales Representative, Canada Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager Maureen Johan Classified Sales

32 Original Recipe How bespoke lines and exclusive collections can help your shop stand out from the crowd.

FASHION

ADMINISTRATION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager Julie Gibson Webmaster

36 Gnome is Where the Heart is Children's fashion takes a playful turn with kitschy prints and primary colors.

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO

4 Editor’s Letter 6 Talking Points 8 Fresh Finds

36

10 Hot Properties 12 Nine Things 14 On Trend 18 Spotlight 20 On the Block 22 In Focus

Above: Oilily gnome-print tee, striped longsleeve shirt by Zutano, Opus pants, Livie and Luca Mary Janes. On the cover: Bumble bee print dress by Kicky Pants, Siaomimi leggings, Kico Kids Mary Janes.

Photography by Amanda Pratt. Styling by Michel Onofrio.

48 Calendar 52 On the Road 56 Remix

Correction: In the article in the August issue of Earnshaw's titled "Full Speed Ahead," a caption referred to a dress as being by Hartstrings, rather than clarifying that it is by Hartstrings’ fashion savvy brand for 8-12 year olds, kc parker.

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) Vol. 95 Issue 8. The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 3

Secret Garden

Whimsical wardrobes and fairy tale frocks take root for infants and toddlers.

EDITOR’S LETTER

LITTLE GIRLS AND boys tiptoed through the tulips, played in the poppies and hid in the hedgerows for our September fashion story, “Gnome is Where the Heart is,” which revels in the magic and kitsch of childhood. Before the shoot we reached out to friends and family and scoured eBay to source a fun array of garden gnomes with the requisite weather-worn authenticity. When the team arrived on location in Bay Shore, Long Island, with bins of fantastical figures and floppy red hats, the sky opened up and the rain came down. At the same time, though, the sun persevered, letting its light dance upon the garden’s riches. The result, you will see, is storybook perfection.

But as everyone knows, happy endings are hard work, especially for new parents navigating the market of infant and toddler necessities. As retailers, we play a crucial role in helping pair new families with the perfect products for their tots and demystifying the baby world for new and expecting parents. Our feature, “Baby Boom,” includes loads of tips on helping your shoppers stock up on the best items for baby and filling your store with today’s musthave registry items.

Speaking of must-have baby items, we had the pleasure of toasting BabyBjörn’s 50th anniversary with company President and Founder Björn Jakobson. We then got the latest on the company’s North American business from exclusive distributor of the brand in the U.S. and Canada,

Niklas Gerborg of BabySwede. The key to the company’s continued success Gerborg says, is delivering a classic product in fresh new ways—the same technique many retailers are taking nowadays, by negotiating product exclusives and developing bespoke lines as a way to set their stores apart in a competitive industry. As we found in our feature, “Original Recipe,” it can be a risky strategy, but if approached carefully, exclusive items will woo shoppers with uniqueness and may pay off in increased margins.

Also in this issue, our Nine Things column focuses on new exhibitors at the ABC Kids Expo, which debuts at its new location in Louisville, KY, on Sept. 23. Looking for things to do in Louisville after shopping the show? Don’t miss “On the Road,” which highlights what to do and see beyond the walls of the convention center. I, for one, am excited to explore the city.

We hope to see you next month at ENK for the Earnie Awards and the inaugural Earnshaw’s Hall of Fame, where we will honor our industry’s top companies and favorite faces.

JENNIFER CATTAUI jennifer.cattaui@9threads.com

OCTOBER 2.3.4 2011 JAVITS CENTER.NYC

J AV I T S C E N T E R . 1 1 T H AV E N U E @ 3 7 T H S T R E E T . R E TA I L E R R E G I S T R AT I O N : E N K R E G I S T R AT I O N S . C O M T. 2 1 2 . 7 5 9 . 8 0 5 5 F. 2 1 2 . 7 5 8 . 3 4 0 3 C H I L D R E N S C L U B @ E N K S H O W S . C O M E N K S H O W S . C O M / C H I L D R E N S C L U B

AND THE AWARD GOES TO… Congratulations to the five children’s companies that took home top prizes for Best New Product at the New York International Gift Fair Baby & Child Awards in August. As voted by a panel of industry journalists and bloggers, including Earnshaw’s Fashion Editor Angela Velasquez, the winners are...

talking points

TOY

Kidzaw Master Kitz: The Starry Night, an educational artist’s kit with paper, paint and simple tools to inspire children ages 4 to 8 to create their own interpretations of Van Gogh’s masterpiece.

DÉCOR

3 Sprouts Storage Boxes, with reinforced cardboard sides that allow the boxes to lay flat when not in use and eco-spun felt appliqués of a brown dog, orange kangaroo or blue peacock.

GEAR

Finn + Emma Stroller Sac, featuring wooden snaps and a sophisticated floral pattern that doubles as a sleepsack when on the go.

BLOGGER’S PICK

Manny and Simon’s collection of eco-friendly, non-toxic wooden push toys, made from 100percent, post-industrial recycled wood residuals.

APPAREL

Magnificent Baby Smart Close Magnetic-Fastening Reversible Cardigan, made of 100-percent cotton and featuring magnetic closures to easily dress baby in seconds.

JUST A BILL

President Obama signed a bill to amend the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA), granting greater discretion to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) to exclude products and materials that cannot meet the new lowered 100ppm lead standard that officially went into effect Aug. 14.

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SHOW BUSINESS

Buyers flocked to New York-area shows in August to check out the latest in children’s apparel. At ENK Children’s Club, retailers scoped out 600 collections from children’s manufacturers and top designers, including 30 first-time exhibitors. At Playtime New York, show directors reported a 15-percent jump in attendance compared to the July

2010 show, with 1,314 visitors shopping the show from July 30 to Aug. 1. Additionally, the Playtime Loves Japan pop-up shop generated $5,231 in cash and an additional $20,000 in merchandise donations to K.I.D.S Japan Earthquake Relief. Playtime is expected to grow from 55 to 90 collections for the March 2012 edition.

EARNIE

rsvp

AWARDS 2011

Save the Date Wine, Cheese and Celebration Oct. 3 at 6 p.m.

Join us at ENK where we will announce the winners of the prestigious Earnie Awards and Earnshaw’s Hall of Fame honorees.

RSVP: melissa.dagnese@9threads.com Seating is limited.

fresh finds Princesse Ilou’s trendy swimwear makes its stateside debut with a collection of one-pieces and bikinis for girls, swim briefs for boys and organic diaper covers for babies.

The French brand’s traditional girls’ swim patterns, like florals, polkadots and gingham, are spiced up with sparkle and Swarovski jewels, while the boys’ designs feature a fresh take on classic camouflage and star prints. Available for newborns to size 16, the collection wholesales for $34 to $41. Visit www.princesse-ilou.com.

Fashion-forward, socially conscious consumers will love girls’ brand Ode, which features internationally produced textiles in breezy, stylish silhouettes. The brand’s Spring ’12 collection includes dresses, jackets, tunics, rompers, tops, shorts and infant sets, all crafted using handloomed ikats from South India and hand-block printed fabrics from Rajasthan. An eye-popping palette of golden yellows, bright magentas, vivid teals, vibrant reds and emerald greens is perfect for spring. For Fall ’12, the brand plans to incorporate Peruvian wool. Available for girls 6 months to 8 years old, the collection wholesales for $17 to $41.

Visit www.odekids.com.

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Peruvian children’s brand Tiksy introduces an eco-friendly line of naturally dyed organic cotton creations to the U.S. market. Handcrafted by indigenous artisans using alpaca wool, the collection for boys and girls from newborn to age 8 includes ponchos, dresses, short sets, onepieces, scarves and hats.

Thanks to the brand’s dyeing technique, the collection’s chunky knit items come in one-ofa-kind shades of purple, pink, blue and yellow.

Wholesale prices range from $20 to $35. Visit www.tiksy.org.

Brussels-based children’s brand Ducksday aims to protect kids from the elements—rain or shine. New to the U.S. market, the collection keeps kids dry with breathable, windproof and waterproof polyester rainsuits, jackets and pants in bold geometric prints and comfy onepiece fleece suits for winter months. For summer weather, the collection offers fast-drying UV-protective lycra one-pieces, shorts, T-shirts and hats. Sizes range from 1 to 10 and wholesale prices range from $6 for hats to $41 for rainsuits. Visit www.ducksday.com.

Surfer style meets skater attitude with the launch of InTakt, a boys’ collection

by IC Clothing, LLC. Eye-catching graphic designs featuring themes like baseball, motocross, robots and jellyfish are splashed across the line’s tees and polos, while matching cargo shorts, hoodies and button-down plaid shirts round out the brand’s street-ready appeal. Wholesale prices range from $11 to $22. Visit www. intaktclothing.com.

New T-shirt brand Books on Shirts Kids combines an environmentally friendly ethos with a passion for classic children’s literature. Made in the U.S.A. using 100-percent organic cotton and non-toxic, low-impact dyes and printed using PVC-free water-based inks, the T-shirts and one-pieces feature inspiring lines from beloved books, like The Wonderful Wizard of Oz and Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.

Available in blue and purple, the collection includes one-pieces in infant sizes 6/12 and 12/18 months and T-shirts for sizes 2 to 4, all for $14.50 wholesale.

Visit www.booksonshirtskids.com.

Babies’ and tots’ essentials get a playful punch with the launch of ’Lina Bean, a domestically made collection of kids’ necessities and accessories sporting funky graphic prints. Items like bibs, burp cloths, changing pads and ties are made out of machine washable 100-percent cotton fabrics in an array of themes, from whales to safari animals and updated paisley to modern florals. Blankets, headbands, capes and play items round out the collection, which wholesales from $4.50 to $26.

Visit www.linabean.net.

Colombia-based children’s brand Orkids enters the U.S. market with a collection of sweetly styled staples for girls’ sizes 2T to 12. Crafted using 100-percent cotton, the collection’s dresses, tops, leggings, shorts and skirts feature feminine embellishments, like bows, ruffles and flowers, in a girlish palette of coral, fuchsia, lilac, turquoise and pink.

Wholesale prices range from $12 to $16. Visit www.orkids.com.

hot properties Rain Boots and Slippers From Pink Cookie Debut Spring ’12 CopCorp, a licensing agency specializing in brand and character licensing, recently signed with Jesco Footwear to produce and market Pink Cookie rain boots and slippers for the U.S. market. Pink Cookie is a trendy, fashion conscious lifestyle brand.

The footwear will be available Spring ’12 at specialty and mid-tier retailers. Those interested in wholesale opportunities should contact Jack Habert by e-mail at jack@jescofootwear.com or by calling (212) 391-5956.

The Parigi Group Adds Nicole Miller The Parigi Group, which recently partnered with Timberland for a kids’ line, has struck a deal with Nicole Miller to distribute a girls’ collection. Debuting Spring ’12, the line will include casual dresses, legging sets and, new for Nicole Miller, sportswear for girls.

The collaboration is a close one, says Sion Betesh, executive vice president of licensing and marketing for Parigi. “Nicole Miller is involved in the whole process. The aesthetic of the brand is the same as what she has for adults,” he explains, which means the 70-plus piece collection will include Miller’s signature whimsical designs. “She goes through every sketch and approves or doesn’t approve.

Changes are made, fabrics are selected and samples are made,” Betesh adds.

Retailers interested in carrying the line can contact Orly Goldstein, Parigi’s head of sales, by e-mail at orly@parigigroup.com.

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Atsuyo et Akiko Collaborates with Disney T-shirt and accessory line Atsuyo et Akiko has struck a deal with Disney to create Winnie the Pooh T-shirts, featuring one of Atsuyo et Akiko’s signature characters, Sara. Designers Atsuyo Yang and Akiko Mukae were inspired to develop the line after coming up with a story that Sara lives in Brooklyn and has a pen pal, a boy from Sussex, England, named Christopher Robin, Yang says. Disney was so pleased with Atsuyo et Akiko’s take on Winnie the Pooh that they requested the brand also create a line for Mickey and Friends. That line will be available Fall ’11. E-mail sales@atsuyoetakiko.com.

Survey Says...

Looking to boost your business with a licensed line? You’re not alone.

According to a recent poll conducted by the International Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association, retailers predicted promising results for their new properties.

Which single factor do you expect to have the most influence on your business growth in 2011-2012?

Doing business in new geographical territories

25%

Adding new licenses/properties

13%

29%

8% Increased business in existing channels

Doing business in new product categories

25%

Adding retail channels

1

NINE THINGS

O.B. Designs owl stroller toy

2

Peek Away nursing pillow

3

Greater than One Kids zoo hold-on handle

4

5

Gracious May diaper bag

7 Bella Tunno Wonder Bib and carrying case

OH, BABY!

A first look at what’s in store for visitors at the ABC Kids Expo in Kentucky.

12 EARNSHAWS.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

Magnificent Baby bodysuits and caps

6

Bibbles bottle spill catcher

8

Growth Chart Art ski-themed growth chart

9

Toes for Eyes silicone pacifier holder, teether and toy

ON TREND SAFARI

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WILD CHILD 1 Nellystella jacket 2 Adooka Organics convertible khaki pant 3 T-shirt by Lucky Fish 4 Sons + Daughters sunglasses 5 Andrea’s Beau faux fur headband 6 InTakt cargo shorts 7 Nico Nico mini bead necklace 8 Peppercorn Kids fabric covered necklace 9 Tunic by Little Esop 10 Huggy Bunny one-piece 11 Tank by Aioty 12 T2Love ruffle tank 13 Fjällräven Kånken backpack

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PHOTOGRAPHER: DEAN POWELL. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

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ON TREND NEON 2 1

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GLOWING RESULTS 1 Acido Domingo T-shirt 2 Mini & Maximus sleeveless tee 3 Tank dress

by Twirls & Twigs 4 Kico Kids newsboy cap 5 Sophie Catalou tiered skirt 6 A is for Apple pocket T-shirt 7 Jumpsuit by Mali Kids 8 Little Society rouched leggings 9 Mami neon-trimmed pajama set 10 Hair bow by Wee Ones 11 Origany apron dress 12 Notify skinny jeans 13 Teeny Tiny Optics sunglasses

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ON TREND U.S. HISTORY

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9 8 7 7

CLASS PRESIDENT 1 Little Thinkers plush ‘Abe’ doll 2

Innovative Kids hands-on

book 3 Puzzle by Crocodile Creek 4 Uncle Goose wooden block set 5 Die-cast president vehicles by Daron 6 Tom Tierney paper doll book 7 DK Publishing sticker book 8 Plush ‘Bo’ doll by Ty 9 Brain Quest trivia cards 10 Rich Frog ruler

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PHOTOGRAPHER: DEAN POWELL. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

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SPOTLIGHT APPAREL

Wholesale: $8-$23 Sizing: 0-24 months; toddler sizes available upon request

Dapper Dudes Andy & Evan spares no expense outfitting little gentlemen in the brand’s signature “shirtzie.”

WHEN ECONOMIC CALAMITY struck in the late 2000s, Jonathan Perl and Evan Hakalir, like many others, found themselves out of work. Granted the opportunity to start something entirely their own from scratch, the friends launched their first business, Andy & Evan Shirt Co. The custom-tailored shirts quickly garnered the attention of showbiz notables, including Alexa Ray Joel and the Fox News crew. Even Regis Philbin, who has a closet full of designer shirts, opts to wear Andy & Evan creations.

Last year, Perl and his wife had a son, and the focus soon shifted to smaller sizes. He wanted to have a few highquality shirts made for the family’s newest addition. “I started calling factories and saying, ‘I want to make shirts 18 EARNSHAWS.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

for my boy,’” Perl recalls. “They’d say, ‘It’s too tough,’ or, ‘It’s too little,’ or, ‘I don’t know if we can make them that small,’ and the more we got rejected, the more we wanted to figure out what would be a good way to make shirts for a baby. It was kind of like a puzzle.”

Hakalir says they noticed a serious void for boys’ shirts in the marketplace, too, and recognized that managing the fit of a little collared shirt was also a struggle. “There wasn’t a collection out there that was compelling,” he says. “And then, on the flip side of things, it was very difficult for [Jon] to keep his shirt tucked in. And that’s how the shirtzie was born.”

Made from the finest woven cotton, every part of the shirt is expertly crafted—from the 3mm buttons and terry cloth-lined collars to the notched cuffs and side seam slits. While designing, the pair aimed to avoid being “too matchy-matchy,” and instead worked with dynamic prints and colors. The idea was to use the shirtzie as a launchpad, not just a novelty item. Twill pants, knit shorts, polos and reversible bucket hats with the same rigorous attention to detail give the collection a truly cohesive and complete feeling.

Prior to making their big debut at ENK Children’s Club this past month, Perl fatefully ran into Project Runway host Tim Gunn on the New York City subway. “He was dressed to the nines and I told him that I was working with some people to launch a line of baby boys’ clothing,” Perl says. Gunn said he thought the idea was stellar and the two exchanged contact information. Perl forwarded him a lookbook, and 10 odd minutes later received a response from Gunn, which read: “I believe you have a PROFOUND HIT.” “That gave us a bit of confidence heading into the show,” Perl admits.

At ENK, things exceeded expectations and the duo was a little surprised by how much foot traffic their booth experienced. “It was like going on American Idol,” Hakalir jokes, “We could’ve left the first round or we could’ve made it all the way to Hollywood. But there was just so much interest in the collection. People were actually thanking us.”

—Meagan Walker

Wholesale: $5-$40 Sizing: 2-12 years

Sensory Solutions A Brooklyn-based teacher turned designer fills a void for children with sensory sensitivities with a fashion-forward line.

IT STARTED WITH a call from her lawyer. One afternoon in 2008, Suzy Kogen Friedman asked her counsel to contact Jessica Ralli, founder and creative director of Soft, a clothing line designed for children with sensory sensitivities. Friedman was suspicious that Ralli was part of a corporation with which she had shared her business concept, since Ralli’s idea was so surprisingly similar. As they talked, it was evident that the designer was unaffiliated with any corporation and in fact was on the search for someone with Friedman’s business expertise to help run the company. Within a few weeks, Ralli flew from NYC to Chicago to meet Friedman, after which they proceeded full speed ahead—as a team. The two found great minds really do think alike.

As a mother to a child with Autism and sensory sensitivities, Friedman knew daily dressing challenges well and could confirm what Ralli had found in two years of tireless market research conducted on web forums and parent surveys. “The recent research reports one in 20 children experience [sensory sensitivity] symptoms,” Ralli explains. “For parents, it’s a huge power struggle, and it can even prevent children from focusing in school.” And with that they were sure there was a need for their product.

The point, though, was for the clothing to look stylish and not like any special consideration was taken, Ralli says. “A few companies out there were making clothes that looked very clinical,” she explains. “There was no design concept behind them; they were just about comfort.” So with the

help of three of Ralli’s closest friends, who designed for Calvin Klein, Michael Kors and Alexander Wang, the new business partners were able to produce a line that not only made children comfortable with flat seaming, tubular knits and out-facing seams, but that was also chic.

While Ralli says the goal was to create a core line of basics that provides parents with everything they need day to day, Spring ’12 will bring some flashier duds, as well as an all-organic cotton collection. Gingham, floral and stripes dominate the upcoming range, and a special line inspired by surf will debut for the spring. “It’s a very Australian collection,” Ralli says. “I feel like it works very well for the change of seasons, with jean jackets, long-sleeve tunics, short shorts, rompers and mini skirts.” Soft will also release a rain jacket for the first time—something Ralli says was difficult to design with sensory sensitivity in mind. Rather than using plastic, Ralli designed the slicker using waxed canvas. And looking forward to Fall ’12, Soft gets luxe with faux shearling, a cape, a kimono and a full suit for little professionals, truly helping fulfill the company’s mission: Dress up without the drama. —M.W. S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 1 • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 1 9

ON THE BLOCK RETAIL SPOTLIGHT

A New Chapter Boutique owners offer an educational shopping experience that appeals to book enthusiasts of all ages.

By Melissa D’Agnese AS CHILDREN’S RETAILERS begin preparing for the bustling back-to-school shopping season, many merchants are filling their calendars with in-shop storytimes to entertain local children and lure customers.

At Alexis Eyler’s boutique, Lollie, located just north of Chicago, tots are treated to regular performances by Nili Yelin, a 12-year veteran of New York’s theater industry, a frequent Saturday Night Live guest and a popular storyteller in the Chicago area. Eyler and Lollie coowner Cheryl Del Campo were looking for ways to solidify the shop’s kid-friendly bonafides and reached out to Yelin. Now, the third Thursday of every month draws book enthusiasts and parents looking to keep kids occupied during shopping trips.

“Storytime brings a lot of people into the store, which is great,” Eyler reports. “But, what I’ve found that’s even better is it gives us a lot of free advertising. We have been working hard to improve the image of the store and also increase our visibility and this is a really good way to do it.”

Giving each storytime a theme and creating continuity is important, says Eyler. “Nili comes up with themes for three months running—St. Patrick’s Day was our first storytime theme and since then we’ve had springtime, beachtime and Mother’s and Father’s Day,” Eyler says. As for selecting each event’s book, local writers are a popular pick. “Nili is great at choosing local authors—she knows many of them.

Duck! Rabbit! has been a repeat favorite.”

The benefits of adding storytime to retail strategies are plentiful, says Sara Jane Strickland, owner of Sara Jane Children’s Boutique in Savannah, GA. The pastelpainted shop offers beloved brands like Zutano, Tea Collection, Zuccini and Fit & Flitter, as well as a weekly reading hour with snacks to enhance the experience for

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Kids gather for storytime at Lollie.

the shop’s smallest shoppers. When asked about what inspired the idea, Strickland laughs. “I have too many ideas for my own good. I remember when I used to work as a nanny and a local library would host storytime. When I opened the shop, I realized it would be a great marketing tool to bring the parents in and get the kids to interact with one another while the parents shopped.”

At Strickland’s weekly event, book titles like The Rainbow Fish, The Hungry, Hungry Caterpillar, Runaway Bunny and Fly Danny are read. Author appearances also stand out to customers, she notes. “You have to set yourself apart from discount retailers and big-box stores. We’ve tried really hard to tap into the community, which is what I feel the boutique experience is all about,” she says. Not to mention, “It keeps kids thinking about books yearround, not just during the back-to-school season,” Strickland adds. “It’s really an educational experience for the children, and it’s totally free.”

READ FOR A REASON

O

n Oct. 6, more than two million children across the country will gather at shops, libraries, schools and playgrounds to listen to the classic children’s book, Llama Llama Red Pajama,

by Anna Dewdney. Jumpstart, a non-profit, organizes the mass reading as part of their Read for the Record campaign that aims to set the world record for the number of kids reading the same book on the same day.

Presented in partnership with the Pearson Foundation, the campaign raises awareness about the early education gap in America.

“Early language and literacy skills help set children on the path to school success. When children don’t have these, they fall behind.

Jumpstart helps preschool children develop these skills year round,” says Jumpstart’s COO and Interim CEO, Paul Leech. Get involved by visiting www.readfortherecord.org.

SPRING/SUMMER 2012

STYLES NOW SHOWING CGESS September 13-15 East Rutherford, NJ

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ABC September 23-26 Louisville, KY

IN F

CUS CARRIERS

Extra Special Carried Away Parents can keep baby close—and safe—with the latest crop of slings and carriers.

Forget wheels—these have legs. Fashionable and functional, baby carriers are an essential accessory for parents on the go. Dr. William Sears, pediatric physician and author of more than 30 books on childcare, notes that baby wearing can impact a newborn in a host of positive ways. Benefits of slings and carriers range from reduced crying and increased bonding between parent and child, to benefiting the baby’s emotional, mental and physical development. For retailers, it can be an easy sale, but it’s important to know the differences between the various types, how to use them and which model fits the bill best for the wearer’s lifestyle. Choices range from slings, back carriers, hip carriers, hybrids, wraps and front carriers where baby faces mom or out toward the world. So what’s the difference? Meet the latest styles from the hottest brands that specialize in holding your customers’ most precious cargo. —Jennifer Cattaui

Baby K’tan’s “Breeze” is the brand’s new breathable mesh active carrier that blends together a sling, wrap and carrier, all-in-one.

“The Baby K’tan allows parents to wear the baby in multiple positions from birth without the hassles of wrapping or buckling,” says Michal Chesal, president of the company.

The carrier can be slipped over the head like a shirt and a newborn can be slid into it in three easy steps. The new Breeze is made of 50-percent breathable mesh and 50-percent soft cotton, reducing heat and moisture and making it more breathable and comfortable.

The Kokopax new eco-classic back carrier accommodates babies 6 months to 2 years old, up to 35 pounds. It is made in cotton canvas printed in OekoTex Standard 100 and GOTS eco-friendly certified dyes. It includes a five-point harness system to ensure safety and features an adjustable frame. When loading and unloading baby, a kickstand keeps the carrier secure. In the Kokopax, baby enjoys a full eye-level view with the grown-up world. At only three pounds and sized to fit airline overhead bins, it’s an easy carrier to travel with, hands-free.

2 2 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 1

The Moby Wrap is a long piece of fabric that is wrapped in a special way to use the entire back and shoulders to carry the weight of the baby up to 35 pounds. “Unlike other carriers, which have narrow straps to go across one shoulder, the Moby Wrap is a wide piece of durable fabric that is wrapped over both shoulders, making it amazingly comfortable and easy to wear,” says Tia Newby, marketing and public relations director at Moby Wrap.

One size fits all, so it’s an easy baby shower gift and comes in a wide array of fabrics, colors and prints, including UV protected and organic cotton.

The ERGObaby carrier offers flexibility— baby can be carried in the front, on the hip or on the back. It holds children up to 45 pounds comfortably since it’s designed ergonomically; meaning weight is carried on the hips, and not on the neck or back. Children in ERGObaby carriers always face the wearer—the company asserts this position enhances the very important bond between parent and child. The newest offering from ERGObaby is a collaboration with fashion fabric-savvy diaper bag and accessory company Petunia Pickle Bottom.

Simon says: see you at market.

BabyBjörn is probably the best known brand of performance carrier on the market and their newest offering, the “Miracle,” which launches at the ABC show in Kentucky this month, promises to upgrade the already ubiquitous front pouch. The newest ergonomic carrier, a decade in development, carries the weight of the child in the hips and can be used from infancy to 15 months without an extra insert. Baby can face in toward mom, and later can be turned out toward the world to enjoy the scenery.

Make your travel plans now to attend.

Over 20 years in the making, the Balboa Baby adjustable sling was developed with Dr. William Sears. Sling babies, Sears says, spend more time in a state of quiet alertness, a behavioral state in which the baby is content and can absorb the world around him. The simple carrier comes in one style and 11 fashionable fabrics, giving moms the chance to express themselves with the accessory. The sling also features heavy-duty Nylon rings for adjustability, an elastic trim to keep baby in place, a tailored padded strap for comfort and a pocket for a pacifier or phone. Babies in the Balboa can be held in cuddle position, cradle position, front carrier style and hip carrier style.

Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market October 27-30, 2011

dallasmarketcenter.com | 800.DAL.MKTS

(left to right) The original baby bouncer, 1961; the BabyBjörn baby carrier, 1973; advertisment for BabyBjörn baby carrier, 1973; the new Miracle baby carrier.

SWEDE

BY JENNIFER CATTAUI

nil in sales to selling 8,000 babysitters in three months,” Jakobson recalls.

ON A TRIP to the U.S., Björn Jakobson stumbled upon a bouncing

Just over a decade later, the company released a baby carrier, arguably its

cradle. With his interest piqued, he decided to bring it back to Sweden

watershed product. It’s estimated that 30 million babies have been car-

to his infant nephew Nisse, for whom he often babysat. For Nisse (now

ried in BabyBjörn baby carriers since the first carrier was introduced in

50 years old), it was a hit. For Jakobson, it was a grand slam. He saw its

1973. “We built BabyBjörn stone by stone. It was more than 50 percent my

potential in the European market, and started BabyBjörn in 1961, with a

wife’s vision. She’s a genius,” the 77-year-old president says fondly of his

mind to improve on the concept of the bouncy “babysitter” by tweaking

wife and partner, Lillemor. Celebrating their company’s golden anniver-

the design with the advice and buy–in from the medical community. “We

sary, Jakobson says key decisions helped pave the way. “We learned from

managed to get articles published in magazines in Sweden. We went from

the very beginning that we needed the patience to consult. We knew we

24 EARNSHAWS.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

TALK

CLASSIC CHILDREN’S COMPANY BABYBJÖRN CELEBRATES 50 YEARS

could not market a baby product without the advice of pediatricians. It’s

with the result so the design team started over from the beginning.

also been important that we started working with testing institutes early.

“There are too many accidents with high chairs,” he adds.

These things helped make it a strong trademark,” he says.

Still a family business, Jakobson remains at the helm, while two

Despite the proliferation of carriers and baby products on the mar-

of his children rotate on the Board of Advisors. Although maga-

ket over the past decade, Jakobson stresses the importance of having

zines like Harper’s Bazaar and celebrities like Madonna catapulted

experience in the children’s industry and product development. He

BabyBjörn into the common consciousness, he says it was the slow

notes that it’s taken his firm nearly 10 years to perfect the high chair

and methodical product development that made all the difference.

BabyBjörn is launching at the ABC Kids Expo this month. After five

Looking toward the future of the brand, Jakobson says, “I just hope

years of developing the product, Jakobson says he still wasn’t happy

that we can remember all of the lessons we learned in the last 50 years.”

SEPTEMBER 2011 • EARNSHAWS.COM 25

COMING TO AMERICA Niklas Gerborg, president of BabySwede, the North American distributor of BabyBjörn, shares the secret to the Swedish brand’s success in the U.S. and Canada.

When did you begin importing BabyBjörn, and how did the relationship start?

In 2005, an opportunity came up to meet with BabyBjörn to discuss distribution in North America. I had grown up in Sweden and I used the products with my first child. BabyBjörn makes parenting simple.

They make products that are no-frills but work very well. It is a solid brand and world leader. I knew it would be a good fit.

What’s your goal as the exclusive distributor in North America?

What we’re trying to do as the North American distributor is grow sales as much as possible. We import and warehouse the products and then concentrate on sales and marketing. We inform the Swedish brand of the safety standards in the region, and we see trends as to what parents are asking for. We do some product testing as well.

Is the Canadian market different than the U.S. market?

The single biggest difference is that Canada has more individual independent dealers, fewer regional and national stores and not a lot of “big boxes.”

What opportunities do you see in the North American market?

The U.S. and Canadian children’s markets are healthy, and new suppliers want to get into the industry. Our opportunity is the amount of ways to reach the consumer who does more research nowadays online and gets information from many different places. Consumers find out about products in local stores, on blogs, in magazines and on websites. We’re trying to get the word out on some of our key messages using all of these means. We are letting people know that BabyBjörn is 50 years old, with a reputation for safety and backing by the medical community. BabyBjörns have carried nearly 30 million babies all over the world.

What about the CPSIA—how have regulations affected your business?

The biggest way is that we do more and more testing. We had always done extensive testing in-house and with third party testing companies but now we do even more. It’s more expensive than before. But in all the time we’ve been doing it, not a single product has changed, and that is definitely a good thing.

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BabyBjörn has historically had a strong connection with the medical field. How is BabySwede involved with Rainbow Babies and Children’s Hospital?

We have a medical partnership with University Hospital in Cleveland. We wanted to establish a relationship with a U.S. hospital—we knew that would be important for the U.S. consumer. It’s one of the top five children’s hospitals in America and they test and recommend our products.

What sort of lessons have you learned since going into business?

What we learned, or what we knew (as we did this from the begin-

ning), is that we should concentrate on what we’re good at and get help on what we’re not. If we’re not the expert, then we hire or outsource. We’re really a sales, marketing and customer service company. We outsource our warehousing function, but we have a strong partnership and work closely with the company, which is in Ohio. We work with them as if they’re BabySwede personnel.

What trends in the market have you identified and how are you responding to them?

The consumer trend we see is that consumers are shifting research to the Internet and then maybe (or maybe not) shopping there. So we engage in more digital marketing and social media. Also, consumers are more aware of safety standards, like lead hazards and BPA. We make sure they know our products are safe. There’s also been a shift toward organics. We’re making more organic products now—giving clients more choices.

What do you want retailers to know about the brand?

BabyBjörn is known for its carriers, but we’re trying to inform consumers that there are a lot of other products—the toilet trainer, safe steps and travel cribs, all of which are safe, high quality and make parents’ lives easier. At ABC we are launching our high chair.

We’re really excited about that. I used the high chair for the past year with my own child, and it’s functional, very easy to use and clean and it changes the perception of the size that a high chair must be. It was designed around a child’s needs, not a parent’s.

We’re also launching the Miracle carrier, which uses hip belt technology. The Miracle is the best baby carrier ever. It takes features from all of our carriers and is customized to what today’s parents need and want. •

“ BABYBJÖRN IS KNOWN FOR ITS CARRIERS, BUT WE’RE TRYING TO INFORM CONSUMERS THAT THERE ARE A LOT OF OTHER PRODUCTS.”

BabyBjörn high chair

RETAILERS OFFER TIPS FOR MAKING THE MOST OF THE BURGEONING BABY MARKET.

“IN THE BABY industry, we’re lucky to have new customers every nine months,” says Katy Mimari, designer and CEO of Caden Lane. New customers bode well for manufacturers eager to deliver the next big thing, but for expecting parents, the $4 billion baby industry, which ranges from temperature-testing rubber ducks and baby perfume to much-debated baby slings, can be a confusing and costly market to enter blindly. That’s where savvy retailers come to the rescue. Cass Roth-Retz, owner of Olivia & Company Kids in Ocala, FL, says that most expecting moms do not know what they want or need and rely on her and her staff’s know-how.

“The baby market constantly evolves and it’s hard for anyone to keep up with what the latest products are, even more so if they don’t already have a child,” she explains. This expertise can be leveraged beyond basic customer service and into detailed shopping lists, one-on-one experiences or even formalized baby registries, which can increase sales and allow shops to market to customers beyond the parents-to-be.

Where to start? Know your products and stand behind them—retailers’ recommendations are sure to influence purchases. In particular, practical items that deliver on promises can gain a cult-like following. For example, Roth-Retz loves Boon’s Catch Bowl and recommends the baseball capinspired, suction cup bottom bowl to shoppers. “I’ve tried similar products from other brands, but they always pop up and fly across the table.

Boon’s stays in place,” she explains, noting she wants to feel 100 percent confident in products she endorses in her store.

28 EARNSHAWS.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

It’s an approach Roth-Retz applies to her business and to her own purchases. “Personally, I’m an off-registry kind of shopper,” she admits. As a mom, she likes to base gifts on her own experience with kids, but understands why most shoppers choose to shop a registry. Convenient and mom-to-be-approved, registries take the question mark out of the gifting equation.

But first, Rene Barth of Elegant Baby in Boca Raton, FL, says she provides shoppers a list of must-have items. “We suggest to them how many sleepers they’ll need and tell them about hot ticket items like Aden + Anais swaddles,” the store owner says, noting how a little guidance can help cut down on returns and exchanges. Similarly, Sara Jane Strickland guides expecting parents through the registry process in her Savannah store, Sara Jane Children’s Boutique. The store’s most registered-for gifts include Little Giraffe blankets, Angel Dear Lovie dolls and Trumpette sock sets. She helps expectant moms fill up oversized baskets, recommending a mix of price points, large items and add-ons, necessities and fun conversational items. Gift-givers shop directly from the registrants’ baskets, and Strickland calls moms to remind them when it’s time to replenish. If items are left, parents can use a $25 gift card that Strickland gives parents for registering at the store. “We recommend they hold off spending it until after the baby arrives, so they know exactly what they need,” she explains.

This interaction strengthens relationships with clientele, says Michelle

TYPE DESIGN BY JACOB CHABOT

BY ANGELA VELASQUEZ

Mendez, manager of Mi Bebé in Tampa, FL. “We learn their tastes, can call them when new products they may like come in and later on, even after the baby is born, we’re the first people they go to when they need to purchase a gift,” she reports. Registries certainly bring in more business, says Brea Thomas owner of the online store Brea’s Baby Boutique. By providing parents with branded registry cards to put inside shower invitations and birth announcements, Thomas says her business’ name reaches countless customers she may have never reached through conventional advertising. “After they order with us once, we find they often return,” she notes.

Barth has seen similar effects. “From our first registry, we got five more. The service has definitely opened the market for us,” she confirms.

On average, retailers report registries total between $250 and $500. Individual gift purchases ring in between $35 and $70. Barth says the amount customers spend usually depends on how close the gift-giver is to the mother, adding, “We’ve had some groups of friends and in-laws purchase the entire registry.” The most successful registries include a range of price points, but Barth notes there’s still a call for splurge items. “Cashmere blankets and sweaters, a mini piano and soon we’re going to add gold jewelry; it’s not for everyone, but once we have those customers in our store, we want to keep them,” she explains. In particular, non-essential items appeal to parents expecting a second or third child, Thomas reports.

“These parents tend to look at more unique items of clothing.

I can’t keep tutus and pettiskirts in stock,” she adds.

Cute outfits and cuddly toys—gifts with that all-important baby shower “aww” factor—lure shoppers into making impulse purchases. Most of Olivia & Company Kids’ customers add on items that catch their eye. Roth-Retz says Sophie the Giraffe has been on every registry for the last four years.

The famed teether by Vulli soothes and elicits a reaction from babies, but the boutique owner says the teether’s sweet design charms gift-givers. “People fall in love with baby products.

These extras make the gift special and personal,” Roth-Retz explains. The key is to have a style for every taste. Every season, Mimari of Caden Lane says she sees prints and colors evolve, but she has never noticed any one particular style fall out of fashion. Retailers confirm, reporting customers’ tastes tend to be split down the middle with at 50 percent seeking traditional and 50 percent seeking modern designs. But as grandmothers become younger and hipper, Barth expects modern looks to inch ahead. “There was a time, years ago, when we used to tell brands from France that there was no way we could sell their brights or grey. Now we’re ready for them and I plan on pushing myself to pick up more of these colors for next season,” she explains.

One tradition on the rise that retailers are noticing is the return of parents keeping the sex of the baby a surprise.

Gender-specific purchases continue to outnumber neutrals, but retailers see a greater demand for contemporary unisex apparel and nursery décor that is just as appealing as its counterparts—so long as it’s not yellow. “Historically, the color has never had good sell through,” Mendez says.

More surprises are in store for the baby industry, as companies introduce a crop of updated and brand new products to the market. Strickland says growth is just what the market needs, noting that no one particular category or product is driving sales. “Sales for baby is just up. It’s a booming market and it’s great to be in an industry where we have to increase orders.”

Merchant Tested, Mom Approved With a modern and innovative approach to design, here’s a look at the latest baby products poised to steal the limelight at baby showers, as recommended by fellow retailers.

IN THE BAG

Timi & Leslie

Petunia Pickle Bottom

OiOi

“I feel we have an edge because I used to be a handbag designer, so we are very aware of the latest handbag trends,” says Timi & Leslie Owner and Founder Leslie Newton. “I’m also a mom, so I know what other moms want,” she adds. Mothers want function and organization stylishly packaged into two new faux leather diaper bag designs. The Louise bag, a roomy tote with custom antique brass hardware, has two oversized exterior pockets and six interior compartments. The angular Jessica bag hits the trends with bold gold zippers and a luxe leather-like feel. Each bag is kitted with a matching wristlet, stroller straps, a dirty clothes bag, insulated bottle holder and changing pad.

Newton says people usually gasp when they find out that her bags are functional diaper bags and appreciate the fact that they can be used long after diapers.

“It’s an investment, but moms like diaper bags that look like handbags,” Roth-Retz reports, adding no one does chic better than Petunia Pickle Bottom. The print-happy diaper bag company, turned lifestyle brand is broadening its range of fashionable accessories with iPhone 4 cases, a wristlet that expands into a shoulder bag and a compact nursing cover, and is also adding a new eco-friendly diaper bag style. The Sashay satchel made from lightweight organic cotton includes large organizational pockets, a zipper pouch, a changing pad and a monogrammed wipes case.

The bag can be converted into a hands-free backpack. Petunia Pickle Bottom Marketing Coordinator Rachel McKnett says it is offered in rich jewel tones and opulent prints, including Tranquil Tulips, Rambling Rose and Daisy Dewdrops. “Our line of stylish diaper bags brings simple elegance and sensible function to the glamorous modern mom on the go,” she adds.

“Our OiOi designer is always researching forecasted trends and looking to the runways for inspiration,” says Cassandra Randolph of OiOi USA. For Spring ’12, it’s all about upbeat colors, contrasts and weathered textures, which the new faux-leather Buffalo bag embodies. The bowling-style bag comes with stroller clips, elasticized internal pockets and zippered pockets to hold keys and cellphones. “I think almost any mom or dad would be thrilled to receive this bag as a shower gift. It’s fashion forward without being too girly, so dad wouldn’t mind being seen out and about with it,” Randolph adds.

EASY DOES IT

Silikids

There’s an easier way to travel with baby food jars, thanks to Silikids’ newest product: Siliskins for baby food jars. The maker of safe, clean and hygienic silicone products for children is repurposing its signature material as a jar cover to help prevent breakage inside a diaper bag. The cover, available in two-packs, is extremetemperature resistant, allowing baby food jars to be used in the microwave or stored in a fridge or freezer. The aqua and white designs complement all of Silikids’ products, which now include to-go glasses, cups, bottles and bibs.

SEPTEMBER 2011 • EARNSHAWS.COM 29

Baby Aspen

Yoomi

Béaba

French brand Béaba is whipping up new colors for its range of products developed to make feeding time easier. One update to the best-selling Béaba BabyCook is a new kitchen-friendly colorway Gipsy, a mix of white, purple and green. The new design will debut at the September ABC Show in Louisville, KY. The award-winning baby food maker steam cooks vegetables, fruits, meats and fish in 15 minutes or less and then purees food. The machine also quickly reheats and defrosts food and is top-rack dishwasher safe.

Since Yoomi debuted in the UK in 2009, the self-warming bottle has become an essential for parents on the go. “Every parent wants to find a way to save time,” says Rizwan Sheikh, COO and CFO of Yoomi America. “Plus, when you are traveling with your baby, it’s sometimes hard or almost impossible to find a place that will warm your bottle for you,” Sheikh adds. Currently available in 5 and 8 ounces, each bottle has a built-in warmer that heats milk to the natural temperature of breast milk in 60 seconds. Bottles can be used up to 100 times. “The price point makes the Yoomi a great gift, but we are also finding that parents are purchasing the bottles for their children,” Sheikh explains.

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PERFECT PACKAGE Strickland of Sara Jane Children’s Boutique plans to increase orders from gift manufacturers because they offer unique products at a good price point. Plus, she can’t keep items like Baby Aspen’s Mr. or Mrs. Sock T. Pus gift set in stock. “Everyone thinks it’s a riot,” she reports. The latest group of Baby Aspen gifts include: Sweet Feet, a set of three socks packaged as an ice scream cone; Feathering the Nest, a four-piece, unisex layette set packaged in a nest-like basket; and a monogramable Hug-alot-amus hippo bath robe.

Specializing in comfortable quality mid-tier basics for adults and children, Etiquette delivers its fresh sensibility to babies with a new range of colorful sock sets. Divided into four color stories—vintage, sailor, preppy and happy— the New York-based brand uses untraditional shades of olive green, fire red, polenta yellow and hot pink to add pop to crew length striped and cap-toe styles. Each set contains six pairs and is packaged in a chic white box.

Woolly Boo

Etiquette

Caden Lane

SWEET DREAMS

MATCH POINT

After carving a niche in the infant and toddler category with a range of organic wool and cotton bedding, Woolly Boo is adding all linen sleep sacks ($40, wholesale) for Spring ’12. “Linen acts essentially like wool, in terms of moisture absorption and distribution into the atmosphere,” explains founder Selma Avdicevic. Each sack is customizable and is lined with colorful cotton. Avdicevic is especially excited about a graphic black and white airplane design. “I’ve found that parents like untraditional colors, so I’m reigning in my knack for pink, ” she laughs.

New springtime prints and versatile silhouettes by Magnificent Baby bring a fresh take on layette. The Happy Bird collection, available in pink and blue for 3 to 12 months, marks the introduction of preppy polo shirts for boys and girls’ polo dresses with matching bloomers.

“Merchandising our collection by prints really makes a huge impact because our colors are bright and they are all mix-and-match,” Magnificent Baby President Lauren Levy explains.

The company is also adding fully functioning reversible cardigans to the core Circus Days collection. Levy adds, “If customers want to purchase a baby gift, they can put together a really nice set, which helps to increase sales.”

From blanket capes and organic moses baskets to lamb-shaped chairs, a twist on tradition is a Little Merry Fellows specialty. The company’s latest products, the heart-shaped Lovee pillow and blanket make a unique and sweet addition to the nursery. According to owner and founder Mary Fellows, the company is a favorite of eco-friendly moms and gift-givers. “I’ve seen people fill up a moses baskets with all of the essentials. It’s makes a nice presentation,” she says.

Vibrant flowers and geometric prints make Caden Lane a popular brand at Mi Bebé especially with young moms. “The prints have a modern feel,” store manager Michelle Mendez explains, adding that shoppers tend to buy matching print burp cloths and bibs. Katy Mimari, designer and CEO of Caden Lane hears a call for “something besides pink for girls.” As a result, the baby brand is introducing limited edition prints in turquoise, orange, purple and navy to its new range of full-size hooded towels. Mimari says the towels lend themselves to being paired with add-ons, like bath toys and baby soaps.

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ORIGINAL RECIPE In an increasingly crowded marketplace, retailers turn to exclusive designer collaborations and in-house lines to lure shoppers.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS; COOKIES CUSTOM MADE BY ELENI’S NEW YORK

B y Au d re y G o o d s o n

IS THERE ANY word in retail more alluring to savvy shoppers than “exclusive?” Conjuring images of velvet ropes and members-only benefits, exclusivity is catnip to consumers seeking originality in their purchases, especially to parents scouting unique duds for their tykes. Whether it’s snapping up the latest European line to land in the States, finding an undiscovered designer or helping create the perfect personalized tee, parents love knowing their tots are sporting one-of-a-kind creations.

Taking advantage of the trend, many children’s retailers are realizing that in a shaky marketplace brimming with competition from big-box discounters and online shops, exclusive collections can be the perfect temptation to keep customers coming back for more.

“The advantage of carrying exclusive merchandise is that the customer can obtain the particular goods from one retailer only, creating the illusion of exclusivity, which may enhance the image of the retailer while increasing customer traffic,” explains Nancy Kaplan Ostroff, an associate professor in the fashion merchandising management program at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. In fact, exclusivity was the secret to success for Lynne Gonsior, who owned her Minneapolis-based shop, Uber Baby, for seven years, before deciding to take her house line wholesale for Spring ’12. “I was always 90 percent exclusive,” Gonsior says, noting that exclusivity was always far more important to her upscale customers than an organic label.

“I think you go through a lot of stores, and down the street they are carrying the same things as the store five miles away. I really wanted to differentiate ourselves from everyone because I thought that would be the recipe for our success. We had this reputation that people could come and find things they couldn’t find anywhere else.”

“Exclusivity is fantastic because it’s new blood,” says Cristina Villegas, owner of New York-based children’s shop Yoya, which

carries its own line of knits and accessories designed by Villegas herself. “It keeps the store fresh and it keeps people interested,” she adds. Not to mention, unique designs may help convince customers that it’s worth paying a boutique price tag. “The price point is high so you want to be different,” Villegas explains. Ostroff at FIT notes exclusive collections may also allow retailers to set price points at higher markups than on more competitive non-exclusive fashion items—ultimately increasing profitability.

Not to mention, just having the product in stock is the perfect bait for curious consumers who simply want to check it out—and they probably won’t leave empty handed, Ostroff notes. “When visits are increased, customers may also buy other items outside of the exclusive collection,” she points out. That’s exactly what happens at Chicago-based tween and teen shop Frankie’s on the Park, where owner Rae Lisenby works with local designer Amy Zoller to create a custom-designed special occasion line, 4th Charm, for girls’ sizes 10 to 16. “Even the girls that aren’t in the market will come in and try them on,” Lisenby says. “There are only so many special occasion childrenswear collections out there, so if you have something that’s unique, even if it’s not something that suits their needs, they’re in your store—and they’ll buy back to school gear or apparel,” she adds. “It draws the clients we are looking for.”

But before retailers dive into the world of specialty manufacturing or designer collaborations, many experts and fellow merchants suggest scoping out the marketplace and making sure there’s a genuine consumer desire for any specific items. Based on her experience, Gonsior advises stopping by all of the nearby children’s retailers, as well as researching any potential new lines exhaustively online. “I didn’t want to be telling my customers it was exclusive and it was in another store five blocks away,” she recalls.

Pumpkinheads owner Jamara Ghalayini started her own Daily

SEPTEMBER 2011 • EARNSHAWS.COM 33

Threads line when she had trouble finding well-fitting, high-quality basics for her Los Angeles-based children’s boutique. “I really needed a basics line that fit with the higher-end brands and looked like it was of equal quality,” she explains. “It was really hamstringing me because the ones on the market just weren’t quite what I needed, at a moderate price point.” Now Daily Threads is the boutique’s bestseller, and Ghalayini plans to sell it wholesale beginning Spring ’12. Not to mention, the brand’s basics are seasonless items, meaning Ghalayini is still selling the line at full price in June and July, when most of her merchandise moves to the sales rack.

The best way to pinpoint potential exclusives is to tune in to your customers, retailers say. Anna Beth Goodman launched her own brand last year after receiving feedback from customers at her 8,000-squarefoot New Orleans-based children’s boutique, Pippen Lane Emporium.

“One of the things I took into consideration is that so many lines that I was buying were so dark, and I had customers complaining that everything was so drab,” she explains. So Goodman launched Pippen Lane Collection, a bright and sweet children’s line perfect for her Southern clientele. “Our layettes are outperforming all of my other layette lines,” Goodman reports. “They are my top sellers—we sold about 150 pieces in about 45 days.”

In fact, knowing what works in your region—and even your neighborhood—can give retailers a better grip on picking the perfect collaboration. “Markets across the U.S. are so different,” Ghalayini points out.

“What works for me in L.A. and what works for New York City is so opposite.” Ghalayini even works with designers to tailor accessories, like Bari Lynn barrettes and Pamela Jo necklaces, to appeal to parents whose girls attend local private schools. “It works like a charm because my clients don’t like too much bling,” says Ghalayini, who worked with

Pamela Jo to craft an exclusive necklace for her shop. “She toned it down and now it’s selling like crazy. My customer is a little more conservative and demure than the Hollywood customer.”

In Ghalayini’s experience, knowing her customers has been a much better method of identifying potential exclusives than going with her gut.

“Ask me about when I did teal for Daily Threads,” she jokes. “There’s been a couple of times when I have missed, and there’s definitely been a couple of times when the items have gone straight to discount,” she adds. Gonsior agrees that exclusives carry a risk of missing the mark—and leaving merchants stuck with a stack of unsellable items. “Minneapolis is a very fickle city, and we wanted to go edgier and edgier,” she recalls. “Sometimes I would find something that was a perfect fit for the store and I would promote it, but my customers didn’t get it. It was definitely challenging.”

Often, the formula for avoiding a flop is teaming up with the right designer. “The designer selected to do an exclusive collection for a retailer must be someone who is consistent with the image of the retailer in the eyes of the target customer, and the designer must be a credible fashion source in terms of both garment design and quality,” Ostroff explains. “For example, Stella McCartney was an appropriate choice to do a seasonal collection for the Gap, as she was someone who is recognizable and has established credibility with the Gap customer.”

Also important, experts say, is making sure your vision for the collection is consistent with your designer’s aesthetic. “The personal relationship with your designer is important, as is having the same sensibility,” advises Villegas, who has worked with several brands, like Lucky Fish, on exclusive collections. “You don’t want to change the design, you just want to add a little twist to it, a little excitement. You need to have the same sensibility and know you can’t change it completely.”

Sarah Shaoul learned that lesson the hard way when she worked

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with a popular character-based children’s brand (before the company launched into licensing) to create a line of custom tees for Black Wagon, her kids’ boutique in Portland. Shaoul ran a T-shirt design contest based upon the character, but so much time lapsed between choosing the winning design and production of the tees that many of the people she had begun working with had left the company. The new team asked Shaoul to order more units than originally agreed upon and revised the winning design. “Artistically, they altered the final design so it would match up with their own brand vision,” Shaoul recalls. “There was a bit of compromise going on, and we were definitely trying to work with them, but the strong original design got watered down. I think if they had left it with the original design we could have sold a lot more units,” she says. From that experience, Shaoul advises retailers to hash out the terms of any agreement in writing. “If you are going to partner with somebody, make sure you’re not giving up all of your creative control,” she notes. “They may only be able to do it if it fits certain guidelines of their own, but that may not necessarily work for you.”

Shaoul recalls how her shop was left with some leftover product—a big concern for many retailers when it comes to snagging exclusives. “If a vendor agrees to do an exclusive with you, you need to be prepared to sell a lot of units,” she cautions. “You really have to be well-positioned to make it happen. Don’t fool yourself about what that might mean. If you’re not in a position to push out a lot of units, it might not be the best route for you.” For retailers that might be concerned about moving large amounts of merchandise, Shaoul says another possibility is partnering with designers for a short-term exclusive, and Gonsior agrees. “Don’t be afraid to negotiate and say, ‘I want a season first for myself. I’ll promote you on social media. If it doesn’t work feel free to go on,’” Gonsior sug-

gests. “I had vendors who stayed with me the whole entire time.”

The final tip for cashing in on exclusives, experts say, is effective promotion. Lisenby has hosted fashion shows for local children’s hospitals, launch parties at Frankie’s on the Park (where locals could come meet the 4th Charm designer) and last year, she took the collection on the road to the New York children’s shows and threw a house party. Gonsior often hosted “Botox and Babies” parties at Uber Baby, where her customers were pampered with gratis beauty treatments and 30 percent discounts on the shop’s merchandise. In addition to learning about new lines, her clients would often share helpful insights for future collections. “It was really interesting to socialize with them when they were very comfortable and at ease,” she says. “I found in a different atmosphere they would be very open about what they were looking for. And once I really established relationships, I would have customers suggest new lines to me.”

But the best part about exclusives, many retailers say, is that the unique nature of the product usually speaks for itself. “It’s great because it starts a really big word of mouth referral amongst those who have made a purchase,” says Shaoul, who has carried several other exclusive collections at Black Wagon over the years. “Today’s retail environment is so incredibly challenging and there are so many forces working against conventional small independent retailers, with everybody moving towards using technology to do their shopping,” she points out.

“What the independent retailers need to do is provide something in their stores that nobody else has.” Ghalayini agrees: “That kind of stuff pays your rent,” she points out. “When every dollar counts like it does right now, being able to sell something for $20 instead of $10 makes all the difference in the world. Daily Threads has literally saved us through this economy.” •

Still life photo by McCandlissandCampbell

36

Little Esop dress and neck tie top (worn under dress), Oilily leggings, Kico Kids rubber boots.

37

This page: Scout striped shirt, Oilily skirt, rubber boots by Kico Kids, Mini Boden red and white striped socks.

Opposite This page: Scout stripedpage, shirt, from left: gnome-print Oilily skirt,Oilily rubber boots by Kico tee, striped long-sleeve by Kids, Mini Boden red andshirt white Zutano, Opus pants, Livie and striped socks.

Luca Mary Janes; The Magic Opposite page: Little Esop dress Wardrobe Winter Water and neck overalls, tie top (worn under FactoryOilily mushroom-print T-shirt. dress), leggings, Kico Kids rubber boots.

38

This page: Ciao Marco checkered shirt, blue tee

by Kico Kids, Paper Moon shorts, Kico Kids rubber boots; Fore!! by Axel and Hudson polo, Peas and Queues cuffed shorts, Kico Kids cardigan and sneakers.

Opposite page: Eddie Pen flannel shirt, Kico Kids shorts and boots. Le Big socks on all.

40

From left: Mim-Pi heart blouse, Misha Lulu skirt; Kico Kids T-shirt, blazer by Paper Moon, T.F. Laurence plaid shorts.

Opposite from left: Blouse and linen pants by Seam, Sanita clogs; Winter Water Factory one-piece worn underneath Opus Fringe jumpsuit, Carter's

by Goldbug butterfly socks, Livie and Luca shoes.

42

This page: blouse and linen pants by Seam, Sanita clogs; Winter Water Factory one-piece worn underneath Opus fringe jumpsuit, Carter's by Goldbug butterfly socks, Livie and Luca shoes. Opposite page, from left: Mim-Pi heart blouse, Misha Lulu skirt; Kico Kids T-shirt, blazer by Paper Moon, T.F. Laurence plaid shorts.

43

From left: Florence Eiseman apple dress, Zutano mushroom-print tee; Lilly and Sid plaid jumper and apple-print T-shirt, Carter's by Goldbug socks, Cienta Mary Janes.

44

45 45

This page: Jelly the Pug sleeveless dress, striped shirt by Scout, Kico Kids shoes, Mini Boden socks. Opposite page: Jelly the Pug dress, striped leggings by Misha Lulu, Kico Kids shoes.

Style Director: Michel Onofrio Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez Prop Stylist: Andi Burnett Hair and Makeup: Thora at Kate Ryan

46

47

CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

Dallas Total Home & Gift Market Sept. 10-12 Dallas, TX

SEPTEMBER 10-12

Dallas Total Home & Gift Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

11-12

Gulf Coast Children’s Caravan River Oaks Conference Center 520 E. Kaliste Salloom Rd. Lafayette, LA (800) 666-4543 zrags@aol.com

11-13

MACASO Mid-Atlantic Children’s Show DoubleTree Suites Hotel Plymouth Meeting, PA (215) 782-9853 TheMACASOShow@aol.com

11-13

Michigan Kids Apparel Group Farmington Hills Manor Farmington Hills, MI (847) 415-2156 www.midwestapparelreps.com

11-14

United Boston Children’s Wear Show 75 McNeil Way Dedham, MA (781) 407-0055 www.unitedbostonchildrenswear.com

12-16

NY Kids Market 34 West 33rd St. New York, NY www.nykidsmarket.org

14-15

Gulf Coast Children’s Caravan

Trendy hats, headbands, & barrettes for girls & boys marili_jean@yahoo.com

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CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

Crown Plaza New Orleans Airport 2829 Williams Blvd.

Kenner, LA (800) 666-4543 zrags@aol.com

18-20

MACASO Mid-Atlantic Children’s Show Embassy Suites BWI Linthicum, MD (215) 782-9853 TheMACASOShow@aol.com

21-22

Gulf Coast Children’s Caravan Alltel Arena, Rooms 1A&1B One Alltel Arena Way North Little Rock, AR (800) 666-4543 zrags@aol.com

ABC Kids Expo Sept. 23-26 Louisville, KY

23-26

ABC Kids Expo Kentucky Exposition Center Louisville, KY (210) 691-4848 www.theabcshow.com

OCTOBER 2-4

ENK Children’s Club Javits Center 11th Avenue and 39th Street New York, NY (212) 759-8055 www.enkshows.com

9-10

Pittsburgh Fashion Mart Embassy Suites Hotel Coraopolis, PA (888) 271-5558 pfmwoschild@yahoo.com

CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

13-16

Atlanta Women’s & Children’s Apparel & Accessories Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com Pacific Northwest Apparel Association Oct. 31-Nov. 2 Bellevue, WA

16-18

Minneapolis Apparel Market St. Paul River Centre 175 Kellogg Blvd. West Saint Paul, MN 55102 (763) 546-8717 www.northstarfashion.com

17-20

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3600 www.californiamarketcenter.com/kids

21-25

North Branch Kids Show 1229 N. North Branch-3rd Floor Chicago, IL www.northbranchkids.com

22-25

The Children’s Show at Deerfield Embassy Suites North Shore Deerfield, IL (248) 478-1732 www.midwestchildrens apparelgroup.com

Kidz at StyleMax, Oct. 22-25 Chicago, IL

22-25

Kidz at StyleMax The Merchandise Mart 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza 7th Floor Market Suites, Chicago, IL (800) 677-6278 www.kidzatstylemax.com

23-26

United Boston Children’s Wear Show 75 McNeil Way,Dedham, MA (781) 407-0055 www.unitedbostonchildrenswear.com

24-28

NY Kids Market 34 West 33rd St. ,New York, NY www.nykidsmarket.org

27-30

Dallas Women’s & Children’s Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas Market Center, Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

31-Nov. 2

Pacific Northwest Apparel Association Hilton Bellevue 300 112th Ave. SE, Bellevue, WA 98004 www.nwtrendshow.com

Editor’s Note: Show details are subject to change. Please call the phone numbers or visit the show websites for up-to-date schedules.

Show sponsors may send updates to editorialrequests@9threads.com.

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ON THE ROAD LOUISVILLE

W

hile exploring 10 miles of aisles and scoping out 900 exhibitors at the ABC Kids Expo will certainly keep buyers busy, attendees should save a little time to check out the city of Louisville outside convention hall walls. Here are the must-sees and dos in Louisville, from local industry insiders.

Mint julep

Fiona Starks, owner of Animal Crackers children’s boutique, part of the Louisville retail community for more than 40 years, with brands ranging from Bunnies by the Bay, Eeboo, and Kissy Kissy to Little Giraffe, Vineyard Vines and Lilly Pulitzer (www. animalcrackerschildren.com).

Favorite spa: A tiny spot located in St. Matthews called Abeille. They do amazing facials, massages, manicures and pedicures. (www.abeillespa.com).

Must sip: You couldn’t talk about Louisville without discussing the famed mint julep—the traditional drink of the Kentucky Derby.

Bourbon, crushed ice, simple syrup and crushed mint make this a favorite of all visitors.

Lunchtime classic: The Benedictine and bacon sandwich.

Benedictine spread is comprised of cucumber, cream cheese, onion, mayo and Tabasco. It was first whipped up by the late Miss Jennie C. Benedict of Louisville, KY, for dainty tea sandwiches in the 1890s. It’s now often served with a hearty slice of bacon on bread.

Jennifer Broaddus Jones, owner of JB and Me children’s store, which specializes in clothing, toys and gifts, with brands ranging from Hartstrings, Haven Girl and Wes & Willy to Melissa and Doug, Mudpie and Manhattan Toy (www.Jbandmeshop.com).

Must try restaurant: Havana Rumba, serving Cuban food at its finest (www. havanarumbaonline.com).

5 2 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 1

• Experienced thoroughbred horseracing • Been to the No. 1 hotel in the U.S. (21C, as rated by Condé Nast in 2010)

• Cruised the oldest operating

sternwheeler on the Ohio River

• Seen a Louisville Slugger handcrafted • Visited the museum of hometown hero Mohammed Ali

• Visited the only British Royal Armory

Favorite local cuisine: Anything made from farm to plate.

in the U.S.

• Stopped by the hotels that inspired

F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby Notable hotel: The Brown Hotel is the essence • Picked strawberries off the vine, of Louisville. It’s leisurely paced with excellent peaches off the trees or made a food, and is the home of the original Kentucky BLT with garden fresh tomatoes Hot Brown, an open-faced turkey and bacon • Swung on the rope swing at 18 Mile sandwich with Mornay sauce. The Hot Brown Island dates back to the 1920s, when the hotel hosted opulent dinner dances that “...home of the original Kentucky drew nightly crowds Hot Brown, an open-faced turkey of 1,200 (www. and bacon sandwich.” brownhotel.com).

Look forward to: The people. People in Louisville are more apt to hold a door, ask how your day is or even smile at strangers.

Louisville is friendly, warm and very family-oriented.

Eric V. Seemann, CEM, CMP All Baby & Child Inc. (www.theabcshow.com).

Best thing about Louisville: Its authenticity. From the people to the accommodations, and from the eateries to the entertainment, what you see is what you get. It’s authentic without pretense, with straightforward honest people who genuinely welcome each visitor to the city.

You haven’t been to Louisville if you haven’t:

Churchill Downs

The Brown Hotel

Did you know: Louisville is home to more privately-owned restaurants per capita than any other city in the U.S., second only to New York City. A good place to find a listing of local restaurants in every flavor is www.louisvilleoriginals.com.

architect Frederick Law Olmsted, designer of New York’s Central Park, Biltmore Estate and the U.S. Capital Grounds. The parks, like Cherokee and Seneca, are all strikingly land- and plant-scaped with walking, riding and running paths.

Parks & recreation: Louisville’s park system was designed by famed landscape

Local libation: Kentucky Bourbon, hands down.

The Largest and Most Family-Friendly Consumer Event in the Country!

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1

STYLIST: ESOM AGE: 5 HOMETOWN: BROOKLYN

1. T-shirt by Brooklyn Junior; Diesel sweatpants 2. Alpha Industries buttondown shirt; Ralph Lauren sweater; hoodie and plaid shorts by Diesel 3. Bit’z Kids camp shirt; Diesel tee and denim shorts 4.

Brooklyn Junior longsleeve tee; Diesel sweatpants; Bit’z Kids scarf.

5 6 E A R N S H AW S . C O M

3 4 PHOTOGRAPHER: NANCY CAMPBELL. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ.

Our fearless stylist (and yellow belt) tackled the fashion closet with the same gusto he delivers in taekwondo. Bright, layered and a little daring, the clothing Esom confidently chose exemplifies his cool-kid demeanor. And fashionable accessories, like a checkered Bit’z Kids scarf and his signature rubber color block watch showcased his keen eye for chic details. Still, the kindergartner and fashion renegade says he’s most at ease in comfy tees and sweatpants. Or, relaxing poolside as he did on a recent vacation to Walt Disney World, where he practiced his swimming skills. “Next summer I want to go to the Bahamas,” he said. —Angela Velasquez

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Little Me

112 W. 34th Street Suite 1000 NY, NY 10120 212-279-4150 Mark Zelen

www.littleme.com Northeast Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999 Southeast Paul Daubney 404-577-6840 Caribbean/Latin America/ South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745 West Coast Teresa Stephen & Krystal Crooymans 866-723-KIDS Midwest Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 800-935-0236 Texas/Southwest Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446 International Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008 See us at: The Children’s Club NYC, Oct. 2nd-4th ABC Kids Show Louisville, KY Sept. 23rd - 26th Booth No. 2337