Earnshaw's | Infants', Girls', Boys' Wear Review | 2011 • October

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OCTOBER 2011 $5.00

INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW

Bonjour

UNITED WE STAND.

www.unitedlegwear.com

Extraordinary garments for young sprouts!

www.snopeawear.com

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a e P o n S

For babies only ®

OCTOBER 2011

Noelle Heffernan FkXb_i^[h Jennifer Cattaui ;Z_jeh _d 9^_[\ Nancy Campbell 9h[Wj_l[ :_h[Yjeh ;:?JEH?7B Angela Velasquez <Wi^_ed ;Z_jeh Audrey Goodson Meagan Walker 7iieY_Wj[ ;Z_jehi Melissa D’Agnese ;Z_jeh_Wb ?dj[hd

FEATURES 30 Flower Child Ah_iWdW I_bl[hij[_d" \ekdZ[h e\ <bem[hi Xo Pe[" jWbai WXekj Xk_bZ_d] W XhWdZ X[jm[[d D[m Oeha WdZ 8Wb_$ 32 ’Tis (Almost) the Season >em je ][j h[WZo \eh j^[ heXkij ^eb_ZWo i^eff_d] i[Wied$

9H;7J?L; Trevett McCandliss 7hj :_h[Yjeh Tim Jones I[d_eh :[i_]d[h

36 Tween Scene 101 =[j j^[ ia_ddo ed j^_i ÓYab[ o[j fheÓjWXb[ cWha[j$

FASHION 40 Dream Ifh_d] \Wi^_ed \heb_Yai ed j^[ ijh[[ji e\ FWh_i$

9EDJH?8KJEHI Michel Onofrio Ijob[ :_h[Yjeh 7:L;HJ?I?D= Caroline Diaco =hekf FkXb_i^[h Sarah Sutphin Broglie 7Zl[hj_i_d] CWdW][h Alex Marinacci 7YYekdj ;n[Ykj_l[ Patrick Thomas IWb[i H[fh[i[djWj_l[" 9WdWZW Jennifer Craig If[Y_Wb 7YYekdji CWdW][h Maureen Johan 9bWii_\_[Z IWb[i 7:C?D?IJH7J?ED Laurie Guptill FheZkYj_ed CWdW][h Melanie Prescott 9_hYkbWj_ed CWdW][h Julie Gibson M[XcWij[h 9EDJ79J ?D<E Sales/Editorial Offices ), 9eef[h IgkWh[" *j^ \beeh D[m Oeha" DO '&&&) J[b0 ,*, (-.#'++& <Wn0 ,*, (-.#'++) [Z_jeh_Wbh[gk[iji6 /j^h[WZi$Yec Circulation Office (' >_]^bWdZ 9_hYb[ D[[Z^Wc" C7 &(*/* J[b0 .&& /,*#+'+& <Wn0 -.' *+)#/)./ Y_hYkbWj_ed6/j^h[WZi$Yec 9EHFEH7J; /J^h[WZi (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ J[b0 **& .-'#')&& Xen Zapis" 9^W_hcWd Lee Zapis" Fh[i_Z[dj Rich Bongorno" 9<E

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4 ;Z_jehÊi B[jj[h 6 JWba_d] Fe_dji 8 <h[i^ <_dZi 10 >ej Fhef[hj_[i 12 D_d[ J^_d]i 14 Ed Jh[dZ 20 Ifejb_]^j 24 ?d <eYki 26 Ed j^[ 8beYa 28 8[^_dZ j^[ I[Wci 52 9Wb[dZWh 60 H[c_n Above: White ruffle shirt and flower print pants by Wheat, Bloch ballet flats. Left: A. Bird tank and bloomer shorts, Bloch ballet flats; DKNY ruffle blouse, capri pants

by Wheat, Bloch flats.

On the cover: A. Bird striped romper. Photography

by Dani Brubaker at Tricia Joyce Inc.

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) Vol. 95 Issue 9. The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

E9JE8;H (&'' ;7HDI>7MI$9EC 3

Paris Calling

Bloomers, blazers and seersucker say springtime in the City of Light.

EDITOR’S LETTER

WE GOT OFF the plane in the French capital with suitcases chock-full of spring’s best for our October fashion story, “Dream.” Photographer Dani Brubaker captured twins Callie and Dylan, some of our favorite models stateside, as well as top European talent Thylane, in timeless tween separates, understated and classic with checks, stripes, swings, poufs, delicate embroidery and ruffled detailing. Starting in a petite pied-à-terre, the shoot moved from cafés, courtyards and the cobblestone streets of the Marais to the grand steps of Basilique du Sacré-Coeur. At one point in the day, a Capoeira troupe joined us, drumming a beat and showing off their Brazilian martial arts moves. Callie quickly joined the group, and thanks to her New York City Ballet pedigree, matched and raised them with each graceful high kick. (Download our app for videos capturing these behind-the-scenes moments.)

Back home, we got the skinny on perennial fashion favorite, Flowers by Zoe, in our Q&A, “Flower Child,” and learned about how owner Krisana Silverstein built her business in Bali. We also spoke with the charismatic Project Runway winner Jeffrey Sebelia, who heads boys’ brand La Miniatura, and Hollie Watman at Cejon, design coordinator for clothes and accessories brand Peace of Cake.

Watman, along with a clique of seasoned tween retailers, also offered advice for figuring out the fickle pre-teen

fashion arena in our feature, “Tween Scene 101.” Tackling the tween market can be a tough assignment, but a little preparation can pay off—and go a long way toward getting the pulse of this coveted demographic.

Planning ahead is also key to surviving and thriving during the holiday season, which is right around the corner. In “’Tis (Almost) the Season,” we walk retailers through the finer points of seasonal preparation, from inspired window dressing and sorting out gift card policies, to stocking the shelves with ample gift options and goods.

Lastly, we are thrilled to begin this month at ENK, where we will host the 2011 Earnie Awards ceremony and honor manufacturers that were voted “best” by you—the retailers. We will also raise a glass to our Hall of Fame inductees, including Macy’s Infant Buyer Ruth Walnick and Group Vice President and Divisional Marketing Manager Joyce Henry, K.I.D.S. President Janice Weinman and Manufacturer’s Representative Roseanne Yarusi of The Rose Garden. À bientôt!

JENNIFER CATTAUI jennifer.cattaui@9threads.com

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talking points

KITTEN WALK

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CASTING CALL Parent favorite Pediped invites their best customers—the children wearing the shoes—to star in an upcoming national advertising campaign. One grand prize winner will be selected by a panel of judges, including Earnshaw’s publisher Noelle Heffernan, actress Ali Landry and Angela Edgeworth, Pediped’s founder.

GIFT

TIME

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Don’t forget to download our October app featuring mobile- and tablet-optimized content and a bonus behind-the-scenes video of our photo shoot in Paris. Visit http://earnapp.epubxp.com.

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EARNIE AWARDS 2011

And the winners are...

We are pleased to announce the winners of the 2011 Earnie Awards and the inductees into the Earnshaw’s Hall of Fame.

Best Denim Levi’s

Best Gifts Melissa & Doug

Best Licensed Apparel United Legwear

Best European Brand Petit Bateau

Best Hoisery BabyLegs Best Footwear Pediped Best Accessories High IntenCity Best Dresswear Cupcakes & Pastries Best Infants’ Collection Zutano Best Boys’ Collection Charlie Rocket Best Girls’ Collection Twirls and Twigs

Best Company for Good TOMS Best Showroom Thread NY Best New Company Fore!! Axel & Hudson Best Customer Service Mud Pie “It” Item of the Year Skip Hop Zoo Lunchies Company of the Year Pediped

EARNSHAW’S HALL OF FAME Roseanne Yarusi Owner, The Rose Garden Janice Weinman K.I.D.S. President Ruth Walnick Macy’s Infant Buyer Joyce Henry Macy’s Group Vice President and Divisional Merchandising Manager

fresh finds “Carolina grown and Carolina sewn” children’s brand Fleming Clothing launches a line of timeless Southern designs for girls ages 3 months to 8 years, featuring cotton candy colors—like pink, lilac and sea foam green— and enchanting polka-dot and monkey prints.

Made using textiles from South Carolina and sewn in North Carolina, the collection includes leggings, tunics and tank tops, as well as reversible swing tops, shorts, skirts and dresses, many created using classic sewing patterns. Wholesale prices range from $11 to $32.

Visit www.wholesale.flemingclothing.com.

Looking to transform eco-friendly clothing from bland to beautiful, Butters&Beans bows a bright and stylish collection of blankets WdZ Ybej^_d] \eh jeji kf je i_p[ *J$ Made using organic, sustainable fabrics, the spring line includes dresses, pants and graphic tees in eye-popping shades like lime, apricot and fuchsia, as well as a small collection of basics in breezy white linen. Wholesale fh_Y[i hWd][ \hec '' je (/$ L_i_j www.buttersandbeans.com.

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For one-pieces and mix-andmatch separates that go beyond basic, Uber Baby Lifestyles introduces an infant collection punched up with the brand’s signature shocks of neon pink, orange, green and purple. The high-quality modal cotton collection is available in sizes newborn to 18 months and includes one-pieces, hoodies, knit and wrap dresses, waffle tees, pants and Henley bodysuits. Leather pre-walkers featuring the brand’s custom swirl print are also available. Wholesale prices range from $9 to $25. Visit www.uberbabylifestyles.com.

Pajama brand Munki Munki offers takedowns of its best-selling adult prints for Munki Munki Kids, a flame-retardant collection of sleeper sets in sizes newborn to 5T and classic pajama sets in sizes 12 months to 5T. The brand is initially offering five playful patterns: candy cane, holiday cookie, garden gnome, sock monkey and wiener dog. Sleeper sets wholesale for $22; pajama sets for $26.

Visit www.munkimunki.com.

New to the U.S. market, Icelandic children’s brand Sunbird blends comfort and 80’s era cool, with a collection featuring an abundance of fringe, neon-hues and vibrant ombre and tie-dye motifs.

“I know how annoying it can be to try to move around freely in something that inhibits mobility,” says designer and former ballet teacher Sunna Dögg Ásgeirsdóttir.

Available in newborn to size 10, the spring collection includes sweatshirts, sweaters, tees, pants, jumpsuits, leggings, shorts, skirts, hats, leg warmers, scarves and swimwear, all made using soft and stretchy fabrics, like French terry, cotton jersey and cotton lycra. Wholesale prices range from $10 to $31. Visit www.sunbirdkids.com.

Big Easy-based Pippen Lane Emporium owner Anna Beth Goodman enters the wholesale market with her house brand, Pippen Lane Collection, a line of colorful, New Orleans-inspired designs in newborn to size 10.

The line’s layettes feature the city’s iconic fleur-de-lis, as well as bee, crown and bear embroidery on classic pink, blue and white footies, polo shortalls, skirted one-pieces and blankets. For girls up to size 10, the collection offers rompers, capris, shorts, tunics, ruffle tees and dresses in lively patterns, including carnival beads and bold florals. Wholesale prices range from $8 to $30. Visit www. pippenlane.com.

California-based Nohi Kids sizes down its eco-conscious designs with the launch of Nohi Baby, a collection of blankets, bodysuits and yoga pants in sizes newborn to 18 months. Featuring modern graphic prints—including owls, giraffes, birds and trucks—the collection is made using 100-percent organic cotton and sustainable bamboo fiber, with a touch of spandex for comfort and durability. Wholesale prices range from $11 to $24. Visit www. nohikids.com.

Little John Lennons and Jackie Os will love Sons + Daughters Eyewear, a collection of trendy frames inspired by pop culture icons. The Canadian-based company introduces a collection of eyewear for children ages 2 to 8 years, all made using non-toxic materials and featuring high-quality German lenses with 100-percent UVA and UVB protection and optional tinting. Available in hip shades like popsicle red, blue and orange, each pair wholesales for $45. Visit www.wearesonsanddaughters.com.

hot properties

Junk Food Revisits Children’s Apparel

A leader in licensing for tweens and young adults, Junk Food will refocus its efforts on the children’s category for Spring (&'($ J^[ YecfWdo fbWdi je h[b[Wi[ W C_d_#c[ @kda <eeZ b_d[ m_j^ heYa" Y^WhWYj[h WdZ cel_[ ]hWf^_Yi" _d WZZ_j_ed je W 8eZ_[i b_d[ \eh _d\Wdji WdZ jeZZb[hi$ 7bb ]Whc[dji Wh[ cWZ[ e\ ikf[h ie\j l_djW][ \WXh_Y WdZ _dYbkZ[ Wkj^[dj_Y bWZZ[h ij_jY^_d]$ J^[ j[[i Wh[ i[j je h[jW_b \hec (. je )($ J^[ Yebb[Yj_ed m_bb Z[Xkj Wj ;DA 9^_bZh[dÊi 9bkX _d D[m Oeha ed EYj$ ( WdZ Wj j^[ B7 A_Zi CWha[j ed EYj$ '-$

Go to the Head of the Class ?d W h[Y[dj ikhl[o YedZkYj[Z Xo j^[ DWj_edWb H[jW_b <[Z[hWj_ed" *)$) percent of parents of children in grades K j^hek]^ '( h[fehj[Z j^Wj they would purchase at b[Wij ed[ Y^WhWYj[h# [cXbWped[Z _j[c j^_i iY^eeb o[Wh$ J^[i[ X[bel[Z GIRLS: 1. Dora the Explorer personalities won the 2. Hello Kitty popularity contest for 3. Disney Princesses Xeoi WdZ \eh ]_hbi$ 4. Tinker Bell

BOYS:

Out of Print Clothing

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10. Iron Man 9. Batman 8. Super Mario Bros.

7. Harry Potter 6. Captain America 5. Transformers 4. SpongeBob SquarePants 3. Spider-Man 2. Star Wars 1. Disney’s Cars

5. Justin Bieber 6. Hannah Montana 7. Barbie 8. The Smurfs 9. iCarly 10. SpongeBob SquarePants

3 Source: The National Retail Federation, 2011 10 ;7HDI>7MI$9EC E9JE8;H (&''

Thank you for voting us

Best Footwear

& Company

of the Year!

pedipedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stylish and comfortable footwear ranges from newborn to size 33 EU (1 youth US) and has been awarded the seal of acceptance by the APMA.

www.pediped.com

1

NINE THINGS

2

O3 backpack

Anaïs & I messenger bag

3

Sons + Daughters Eyewear sunglasses

Spark of Life peace sign necklace

4

7 Woon iPod doll

GIRL POWER

Punchy accoutrements add pizzazz to tweens’ spring looks.

5

MOGO slippers

6

Teen Vogue handbag

8

Rolf Bleu slap watch

9 A for Apple sun visor

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© GLM 2011

®

New York International Gift Fair l PIERS 92 & 94, NYC

JANUARY 28 – FEBRUARY 2, 2012

JAVITS CENTER

nyigf.com

The Original Spiketus Rex™ from Mad Pax.™ Expect Packarazzi.

®

ON TREND NAUTICAL

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SMOOTH SAILING

1 Robeez pre-walker 2 Andrew & Audrey trompe l’oeil cardigan 3 Dress by Halabaloo

4 Mayoral blazer 5 Donita seersucker dress 6 Truly Whimsical tee 7 Kissy Kissy knit one-piece 8 C.I. Castro sailor set 9 Hoodie and T-shirt by Miniclasix10 Carter’s by Goldbug sandal 11 Legwarmers by BabyLegs 12 Flap Happy sun hat 13 Crocs hoodie 14 Kacho crystal-embellished barrette 15 Le Top one-piece 16 Hair bow by Wee Ones 17 Kai Bean tee 18 Hartstrings trompe l’oeil one-piece 19 Swimsuit by Wovenplay 20 Mulberribush lobster one-piece

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PHOTOGRAPHER: DEAN POWELL. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

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JAGGED EDGE

1 Paper Crane striped shirt 2 Mini & Maximus message T-shirt 3 Vest by Ragdoll & Rockets

4 Purple Orchid studded vest 5 Biscotti tiered dress 6 Rebelette tank 7 Truly Whimsical tee 8 Twirly Girl skirt 9 Jumpsuit by Sunbird 10 Vintage Havana sweatshirt 11 Shoulder bag by Teen Vogue 12 Wildfox T-shirt 13 Tru Luv vest 14 Stella Cove rash guard

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PHOTOGRAPHER: DEAN POWELL. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

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ON TREND WALL DECALS

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STUCK ON YOU 1 Pop & Lolli barnyard decals 2 RoomMates clouds 3 Automobile set by Designifex 4 Wee Ones panda 5 Chalkboard decal by Wallies 6 Borders Unlimited dinosaur 7 Love Mae tea party set 8 Warner Wallcoverings airplanes

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PHOTOGRAPHER: DEAN POWELL. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

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SPOTLIGHT APPAREL

WE’RE NOT JUST SIZING DOWN WOMEN’S FASHION. WE’RE REINTERPRETING CONTEMPORARY BODIES IN A YOUTHFUL WAY. Sizing: 4-14 Wholesale: $15 to $35

Tween Beat

Pre-teen girls are fashion plates in Kiddo by Katie.

FAVORITE OF tween stars walking the carpet at Nickelodeon’s Kids’ Choice Awards and Disney film premieres, Kiddo by Katie was started by President and Designer Katie Kim after her two tween-aged girls started to shop her own closet for fashionable finds. She procured her design experience working for her family’s apparel business, but according to Kiddo Vice President Sam Pail, a family lineage in fashion isn’t Kim’s only advantage. “She has an awareness and understanding of what trendy, tech-savvy, pop culture-obsessed girls aspire to be,” Pail explains. “This is the first generation that has used the Internet since they were born.

They’re more individualistic and aren’t satisfied with simple designs. They’re watching fashion shows online and following fashion blogs. Even the bloggers are starting younger,” he adds.

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With a finger on that pulse, Kiddo, which was established in 1992, has stayed fresh and relevant by evolving with the trends but never steering away from the brand’s mission to find a balance between age appropriate silhouettes and fashionable designs. “We’re not just sizing down women’s fashion. We’re reinterpreting contemporary bodies in a youthful way,” Pail explains. For example, the brand makes a concerted effort to use more color than its adult counterparts. Spring calls for shades of pink, cobalt blue, pops of neon and all over coral.

And in a category saturated with graphic T-shirts and basics, Pail says Kiddo has made a statement with casual and party dresses. “Dresses are what we’re known for and where we show our strength, in terms of trends,” he says.

Festive celebrations inspire the Spring ’12 line of tiered chiffon dresses, striped maxi dresses and metallic frocks with bubble skirts. From there, trends are carried into more casual separates including dolman sleeve tops, ruched skirts, floral tunics, fringe and Aztec accents.

Even though tweens have strong opinions about what makes it into their closets, Pail says the company tries to connect with parents first. “We want them to know that we’re okay to buy for their young daughter,” he explains. By sponsoring local L.A. schools and providing retailers with high-quality lifestyle photography, Pail says Kiddo is able to distinguish its place in the market—a key to success in a category that is exploding.

“There’s a bigger demand for tween than ever and every brand is trying to get in, either by taking their size ranges up or down, but I believe we are setting the trend for this market.”

—Angela Velasquez

School of Rock

La Miniatura’s edgy and nostalgic designs shake up the boys’ market.

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Sizing: 2-12 years Wholesale: $5 to $40 E 9 J E 8 ; H ( & ' ' ; 7 H D I > 7 M I $ 9 E C 2 1

SPOTLIGHT SHOES

Sizing: 1-7.5 (European 33-40) Wholesale: $47.50

Street Smart

Golf heavyweight Ecco bows a transitional Junior Street line that goes from course to playground.

THE FIRST HYBRID golf shoe to hit the men’s market, the Ecco Street, was notably worn by two-time PGA Tour Player of the Year Fred Couples at the 2010 Masters Tournament. Despite Couples coming in sixth place that year, the sidewalk-to-course pair had heads turning almost instantaneously and imitators scrambling to develop their own versions.

“We went from 0 percent of our business being hybrid golf shoes in 2009 to 60 percent of our business in 2011,” says David Helter, specialty sales director at Ecco. “We were the lone wolf, and after

2010, when the rest of the market saw what we did, everybody started to chase it.” For now it seems, this new concept is here to stay, as Ecco will size down the Street line to Junior Street for Spring ’12.

The four-colorway collection correlates with the women’s and men’s designs, so the pairs are perfect for father-son and mother-daughter matching. Eyes fixated on what’s ahead, Helter sees the latest movement to sweep the green—natural motion footwear—as the next step for the brand’s kids’ offerings, and that Ecco will proceed by producing a takedown from the brand’s BIOM collection. —Meagan Walker

IN FOCUS DELICIOUS DENIM

IN LIVING COLOR Tried-and-true blue jeans have no expiration date, but this spring, designers reinterpret classic denim by bringing eye-catching colors to the boys’ and girls’ markets. Amy Ackerman, tween division manager at the Ilene Oren & Company showroom says, “Colored denim is going to be completely on fire for Spring ’12. You are going to see everyone wearing colors that pop.”

Linda Levinger, owner of Linda’s G2G boutique in Port Washington, NY, agrees and calls the trend multi-seasonal: “You could wear red denim year-round and make it work wonderfully.”

—Melissa D’Agnese

From left: Notify hot pink jeans, Tractor electric blue jeans, La Miniatura neon yellow jeans.

2 4 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C E 9 J E 8 ; H ( & ' '

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For all girls for all times...

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ON THE BLOCK RETAIL SPOTLIGHT

A bumpy track will allow parents to road test the store’s wide selection of strollers (right), and a spacious registry area comes staffed with experts (below).

Wonder World

A Chicago-area children’s retailer aims to transform the role of the big-box shop. By Audrey Goodson IMAGINE A PLACE where parents can tote their tots to an art workshop, take a class on CPR, pick up a few back-to-school essentials and then share a healthy meal— Wbb kdZ[h ed[ hee\$ De" _jÊi dej ^[Wl[d0 ?jÊi MedZ[h " W ')+"&&&#igkWh[#\eej YedY[fj i^ef ef[d_d] EYj$ (( _d 9^_YW]eÊi :[[hÓ[bZ ikXkhX" WdZ _ji emd[hi Wh[ ^ef_d] je h[Z[Ód[ h[jW_b Xo fhel_Z_d] Xej^ fWh[dji WdZ a_Zi m_j^ Wd [j^[h[Wb i^eff_d] experience.

“What we’ve seen over the last decade or two is a slow transition in retail,” says MedZ[h <ekdZ[h I^Wd[ 9^h_ij[di[d$ Ç>ec[ :[fej Xhek]^j [l[hoj^_d] kdZ[h ed[ roof, but it was very transactional. Now the movement we’re seeing is experiential, and if there’s any area that should be about the experience and emotion, it’s

2 6 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C E 9 J E 8 ; H ( & ' '

children’s retail.” Christensen, a father of two, had an epiphany one day while carting his kids around town on various errands, realizing that the time was ripe for a retail experience that combined convenience—a big concern for busy parents— with the fun factor of shops like American Girl, Ikea and outdoor giant Cabela’s.

For parents, Christensen plans to offer a shopping experience like no other, with a vast selection of baby gear, furniture, bedding, apparel, jeoi WdZ W m^eff_d] ',& ijhebb[hiÆ_dYbkZ_d] W track with hilly topography for real-world testing.

7 '",&&#igkWh[#\eej XWXo h[]_ijho bekd][ m_bb i_j in the center of the retail area, surrounded by layettes and other gear for soon-to-be-parents to peruse, with experts on hand to provide recommendations. And for more in-depth advice, Wonder! will offer classes on everything from prenatal birthing to CPR and breastfeeding, taught by staff members from nearby Prentice Women’s Hospital. :[if_j[ j^[ Wff[Wb je fWh[dji" _j m_bb b_a[bo X[ Chicago-area kids begging to return, thanks to j^[ i^efÊi (&"&&&#igkWh[ \[[j WbbeYWj[Z \eh fbWo" fWhjo WdZ [ZkYWj_ed" _dYbkZ_d] '& YbWiiheeci offering art, dance and music classes and a halfacre interactive playscape, full of mounds for climbing and real trees. Courtney Watkins, who ^Wi meha[Z m_j^ :_id[o WdZ @_c >[died" m_bb be providing all of the shop’s art programming, while kindie rock bands like SteveSongs and HWbf^Êi MehbZ fbWd je f[h\ehc$ J^Wdai je W partnership with the Lincoln Park Zoo, armadillos and other critters will occasionally come to play.

And kids with a need for speed will have a chance to test their Hot Wheels on the shop’s indoor hWY[ jhWYa X[\eh[ Xko_d]$ Je h[Yel[h" \Wc_b_[i can grab a snack or learn to whip up their own [djh [i Wj 8[Wd Ifhekji 9W\ 9eea_d] IY^eeb" run by Kelly Parthen and Shannon Payette Seip, who previously served up tempting treats for American Girl.

Zutano was so entranced by Wonder!, the Y^_bZh[dÊi XhWdZ _i fbWdd_d] je ef[d W (&&#igkWh[ foot concept store inside, complete with a stacked chair sculpture reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland and a baby-bottle chandelier crafted by a Vermont artist. “I think it’s time to rethink h[jW_b_d]"È iWoi C_Y^W[b 8[b[dao" fh[i_Z[dj WdZ founder at Zutano, about the brand’s decision to jump on board. “People are getting comfortable shopping on the web, especially in the baby market, and the retail landscape continues to evolve with different venues for shopping,” he notes. “If we can make the specialty retail experience even more special, there’s really a h[Wied \eh fWh[dji je cWa[ j^Wj Zh_l[$È

BEHIND THE SEAMS CEJON’S DESIGN DIRECTOR FOR KIDS HOLLIE WATMAN DISHES ABOUT TOT-TO-TWEEN LINE PEACE OF CAKE AND REVEALS THE COMPANY’S NEW LINE, CEJON KIDS.

OME PEOPLE JUST ^Wl[ \Wi^_edWXb[ ][d[i$ IkY^ _i j^[ YWi[ \eh >ebb_[ MWjcWd" Z[i_]d Z_h[Yjeh \eh a_Zi Wj 9[`ed" h[Y[djbo WYgk_h[Z Xo Ij[l[d CWZZ[d BjZ" WdZ j^[ fWh[dj YecfWdo e\ Y^_bZh[dÊi XhWdZi F[WY[ e\ 9Wa[ WdZ ieed#je#bWkdY^ 9[`ed A_Zi$ MWjcWdÊi ]hWdZ\Wj^[h ijWhj[Z if[Y_Wbjo Zh[ii YecfWdo 9$?$ 9Wijhe$ >[h ]hWdZcej^[h mWi W Xko[h Wj 8beec_d]ZWb[Êi$ >[h Wkdji m[h[ Wbie _d j^[ Xki_d[iiÆed[ W fWjj[hdcWa[h WdZ j^[ ej^[h W j[nj_b[ Z[i_]d[hÆWdZ ^[h cej^[h m^e ^WZ W Yebkcd _d j^[ New York Times j_jb[Z Ç;ccW IWoiÈ WdZ W ÇL_ZWb IWiieedÈ ^W_hYkj ^[WZ[Z W \kdao a_ZiÊ b_d[ m_j^ i_]dWjkh[ ad[[#^_]^ Xeeji \[Wjkh_d] `kcXe \behWbi YWbb[Z >_bWho _d j^[ Ê,&i$ >[h b_d[ YekbZ X[ ifejj[Z _d j^[ 8edm_j J[bb[h ^eb_ZWo m_dZemi$

“THE KIDS LOVE THE SOPHISTICATED STYLES BUT THEY DON’T FIT. THERE IS ROOM FOR A BETTER BRAND IF THERE IS VALUE AND IT’S SPECIAL.”

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B Y J E N N I F E R C AT TA U I

From top: Rhinestone embellished cat eye sunglasses; floral print dresses; lace fedoras and lace accented dresses in bright colors.

hard finding jeans for a 12 ½ year old,” she says, which is something she knows firsthand, having a tween daughter of her own. When her daughter Carley was invited to the Nanette Lapore fashion show this past fashion week, she says the ordeal of getting dressed underscored the gap in the market. “Carley couldn’t find anything that worked.

She asked for my opinion, but then wouldn’t follow it (God forbid you suggest something that matches). She ended up wearing my clothes, minus the shoes,” Watman says, laughing. Now for Peace of Cake, Watman toys with developing a unique branding for tweens, with a new woven hangtag and a related—but more grown up—identity. “The kids love the sophisticated styles but they just don’t fit. There is room for a better brand, if there is value and it’s special.”

After two decades at Cejon, Watman says she’s witnessed a good deal of change in the fashion market. She’s seen production shift from domestic in the ’80s and ’90s—when there were no lead times or minimums—to abroad, first to Mexico, then Italy and more recently to India and China. She says she’s looking to move their production again, perhaps to South America or back to the U.S., due to the skyrocketing prices in the East. But sourcing and manufacturing shifts haven’t been the only big changes, she says. Technology and the speed of communication have also dramatically affected their business. “It’s amazing how quickly you have to jump on a trend these days. There was a time when the trend was just one look but now there are so many trends happening at the same time—today it’s ’50s “Mad Men,” ’70s bohemian, ’80s neon,” she points out. “It can be confusing for a designer to find focus, but can also be \kd WdZ b_X[hWj_d]$È

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Make your travel plans now to attend.

Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market October 27-30, 2011

dallasmarketcenter.com | 800.DAL.MKTS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS&CAMPBELL

FLOWER CHILD KRISANA SILVERSTEIN, FOUNDER OF GIRLS’ FASHION BRAND FLOWERS BY ZOE, FINDS BALANCE AND MEDITATION ARE KEYS TO HER BUSINESS’ SUCCESS. 30

BY JENNIFER CATTAUI

FLOWERS BY ZOE is growing up.

What started in 1993 with a collection of hand-painted batik prints has blossomed into a full fashion line spanning from baby to tween, earmarked by eye popping knits and trendy dresses.

Most recently, the brand moved into the women’s market with its latest collection, “Flowers,” which launched at Coterie this fall. “The girls who followed us from the inception keep getting bigger.

They still love the styling, but they are growing out of the sizing,” says Krisana Silverstein, founder of the brand.

Silverstein jokes that her story bears a striking resemblance to the book Eat, Pray, Love. “I ‘retired’ from the fashion industry and went to India, Italy and Bali. I even had a Brazilian husband,” she laughs. When she, her husband and son Zoe moved to Bali in the early ’90s, she says she would occasionally take shopping sojourns back to New York. Armed with a degree in fashion merchandising from FIT and some years as a manufacturer’s rep in women’s accessories, she cast a sharp eye on the children’s market and thought, “I could do this better.” She was especially confident knowing the wealth of resources in her backyard in Bali—which she describes as “an artist’s playground.” She had noticed some interesting fabrics and trends going on in Bali, and sought to extrapolate them into infants’ and toddlers’ looks. In the early years, she would manufacture the looks, load them up in boxes and bring them to New York to sell at street fairs in the Village. Her parents also lent a hand— her father gave her the first $5,000 in seed money and her mother handled shipping for a while—but since, it’s been a series of serendipitous connections fueling the business. “We met some key people in Bali, and many of them are still with us today—I think of them as family,” Silverstein says.

She had met others back in college who would be instrumental in her business, namely Kourageous Kids showroom owners Kim Spellman and Sarina Cotton, who, since 1995, have represented her brand, giving Silverstein strong sales direction and design input. “It’s been a dream team,” says Silverstein of the group’s 16 years together.

Her business approach betrays her connection to the East, as meditation and balance inform her decisions. “I try to make each moment count and make sure I’m living a balanced life,” she says.

Simultaneously managing the design process, the production in Bali, the distribution and even the retail store on Madison Avenue, is a lot to juggle, but Silverstein says she focuses on what’s happening now—“Where am I with this, am I fearful of that, am I being fair”—and it’s this mindfulness that’s helped map her journey from children to tweens and beyond.

This is our tween issue, and FBZ has had such a strong brand identification with this market. What has been your experience with the tween market?

It’s an easy market for us because our strongest sales are in sizes 7 to 14. The tween buyers are always giving me direction and they are sharing what their customers are saying. Girls love the line because of the fit. There are so many wonderful stories I hear about where a girl needed an extra boost of confidence and in her FBZ outfit she was able to fit into her new environment with ease.

What is the market looking for in FBZ? They definitely want “trendy now” clothing for a price.

We are doing our best to be that.

Is it hard to deliver a competitive price in these current market conditions, especially when you produce in Bali?

Of course. I remember when people would get their FBZ deliveries and just sell from the box. Now times have changed a bit, and while we still are very much brand-driven, the market right now is more about price. These days, I am more cautious about what we buy and spend. We don’t waste anything. I am trying to keep the quality at a particular level but am also investigating fabrications that have the same look but are less expensive. We are finding it challenging in Bali but I’m really committed to staying there—it’s a lifestyle for me, and the people have been with me since the inception. While China is looming large on the horizon, I haven’t made the move because I don’t want to spend my time in China; I have a loyalty to Bali.

What’s on the horizon for FBZ? I’d like to try to find a niche for us in a more sustainable market—a more green, organic market. I’d like to create clothes that don’t have much impact on the environment. It would be FBZ Organic, perhaps, and we’d start with babies and infants. I see this as the next phase for us.

We’re also finishing our website, which has been a big project. It’s been under construction for a while.

I’d like to use our site to start an interaction with the younger customer. Education is very important to me—we’re even looking at some educational modules for our website that foster an organic learning process like that in Bali. Education in Bali is about creating an environment where the kids’ own curiosity is not killed by competition and result-orientation, and they are so involved in the process that it just becomes joyful.

It would be great to give them an intercultural experience and connect children through art and culture on the site. We could run contests, maybe, and invite children to Bali as FBZ ambassadors. After working with children all these years with FBZ, I feel like I have to be able to segue into education somehow. I have tons I want to do. If any readers are interested in interning, i[dZ j^[c co mWo

BALI CHIC

Festive crochet skirt

Black crochet cover up

Vibrant bat-wing top

Ombre dyed dress 31

32 ;7HDI>7MI$9EC E9JE8;H (&''

’TIS (ALMOST) THE SEASON

NOTABLE HOLIDAY HELP

The holidays mean something different to everyone. To some, it’s a time for home-cooked meals, surprises and vacations, and to others, crowded airports, empty bank accounts and family drama. To retailers, the holiday season translates into an upsurge in sales, foot traffic and a longer to-do list. To ease your load this winter, take note of these tips and tricks from a 30-year industry vet, an expert visual merchandiser and retailers just like you.

ILLUSTRATION BY MCCANDLISS&CAMPBELL

Deck the Halls

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9Wc_bb[ 9epp_d_" emd[h e\ EZ_b[" W 9^_YW]e#XWi[Z Y^_bZh[dÊi i^ef" fbWdi je jWa[ ed Wj b[Wij ed[ ceh[ fWhj#j_c[h" Wi m[bb Wi Wd _dj[hd \hec d[WhXo :[FWkb Kd_l[hi_jo$ Ç? c_]^j X[ W b_jjb[ ceh[ h[bWn[Z m_j^ j^[ ^_h_d] fheY[ii X[YWki[ ? adem _jÊi j[cfehWho"È i^[ iWoi" Ç8kj ? ij_bb mWdj iec[XeZo m^e ^Wi iec[ h[jW_b WdZ Ykijec[h i[hl_Y[ [nf[h_[dY[" ie j^[o YWd ^[bf m_j^ ]_\j mhWff_d]" a[[f_d] i^[bl[i eh]Wd_p[Z WdZ h[fb[d_i^_d] ijeYa$È @[Wd @WYkbbe" W )&#o[Wh h[jW_b _dZkijho l[j[hWd WdZ Ykhh[dj Wii_ijWdj fhe\[iieh e\ \Wi^_ed c[hY^WdZ_i_d] cWdW][c[dj Wj <?J" W]h[[i$ Ç7h[ j^[o f[efb[ m^e [d]W][ m[bb WdZ Wh[ _dj[h[ij[Z _d j^[ Ykijec[hi5 9Wd oek jhkij j^[c5 J^ei[ Wh[ j^[ icWbb j^_d]i$ J^[ Z_\\[h[dY[ _i oekÊh[ dej beea_d] \eh j^[ iWc[ Z[fj^ e\ [nf[h_[dY["È i^[ WZl_i[i$ :[if_j[ j^_i" j^[ ]hemj^ e\ [#Yecc[hY[ ^Wi iec[ h[jW_b[hi ^_h_d] \[m[h i[WiedWb [cfbeo[[i j^_i o[Wh$ 7 ikhl[o XWi[Z ed h[ifedi[i \hec (' cW`eh K$ I$ h[jW_b[hi YedZkYj[Z Xo j^[ >Wo =hekf \ekdZ j^Wj '/ f[hY[dj m_bb Xh_d] ed ceh[ i[WiedWb meha[hi _d Z_ijh_Xkj_ed Y[dj[hi" dej Xh_Ya#WdZ#cehjWhi" je ikffehj ikh]_d] edb_d[ iWb[i$

Man Up

That’s a Wrap

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Ed[ e\ j^[ X_]][ij ^[WZWY^[i e\ j^[ ^eb_ZWo i[Wied \eh i^eff[hi _i ]_\j mhWff_d]$ JWa[ _j e\\ Ykijec[hiÊ c_dZi Xo e\\[h_d] _d#ijeh[ mhWff_d] i[hl_Y[i$ Ç7bb ijeh[i ^Wl[ je Ze j^_i"È @WYkbbe iWoi$ ÇBWh][ ijeh[i Y^Wh][" Xkj icWbb ijeh[i i^ekbZ Ze _j \eh \h[[$ ?jÊi ed[ e\ j^[ j^_d]i _dZ[f[dZ[dji YWd Ze je ZhWm f[efb[ _d WdZ i[j j^[ ijeh[ WfWhj$È 9W^Wd W]h[[i" dej_d] j^Wj ÇXWi_Y mhWf-

In need of a little inspiration before tackling your store’s display window?

Look no further.

Here are four websites that will have you firing off fresh ideas in mere minutes.

The Window Display Blog: This simply named blog kept up by Kaisa Leinonen, a UK-based visual merchandiser, highlights London's best windows. www.thewindowdisplayblog.com Dekra-Lite: While DekraLite is a full-service design firm, it also allows the public to shop its commercialgrade selection of LED lights, oversized bows and ornament assortment.

Make sure to click through the product slideshows for mix-and-match inspiration. www.dekra-lite.com Snowfall USA: Owned by Dekra-Lite, Snowfall USA manufactures lights that mimic falling snow using automatic randomization. www.snowfallusa.com 100 Displays Under $100: Bargain is the name of the game here. Part of the visual merchandising business for nearly 40 years, Linda Cahan advises on how to make your dough go the distance. www.lindacahan.com

E9JE8;H (&'' ;7HDI>7MI$9EC 33

ping should be free, and then fancy wrapping can be done for extra.”

At Odile, Cozzini wraps gifts in white boxes and adorns packages with purple ribbon, a service that's free for purchases over $150.

Cozzini, and retailers like her, have to anticipate how many presents they'll wrap this season. The key to having enough boxes, shopping bags and holiday supplies is to learn from history. “People should keep a document year after year so they can plan that much better. It’s a very important aspect of holiday planning,” Jacullo notes.

Gift Card Crash Course

The laws on gift cards have changed, and because they're such a big part of business during the coming time of year, be sure your store policies are in sync. Recent ammendments to prepaid card regulations on the federal level (including the Durbin Amendment to the Dodd-Frank Act, FinCEN’s Prepaid Access Rule and the CARD Act) could mean you have to change your store practices with regard to card load limits, service fees and expiration dates. For example, according to Linda Odom, a counsel at law firm Bryan Cave, due to CARD Act regulations, cardholders who use their gift card at least once a year cannot be charged any service fees. Rather, it’s those that let gift cards take up space in their wallets without using them that can be charged a monthly service fee after 12 months time.

Odom says the CARD Act also affects expiration dates. The CARD Act prohibits card expiration dates before five years from the date of purchase or when money was last put on the card. It's a good idea to run your store policies by your company lawyer to ensure your practices are kosher.

All the Trimmings

Once the necessities are in place, the next question is what can you do to really set your store apart from the masses. Sales associates should be reminded to put in the extra effort with customers by engaging in conversations on a topic that parents are more than happy to discuss: their children. “Ask, ‘What are his likes and dislikes?’ ‘How quickly is he growing?’ That little bit of caring makes a huge difference,” Cahan notes, adding, “People always assume they’re going to get a better buy at a big-box store, but independent retailers offer caring, individual service and original merchandise you can’t find anywhere else. Don’t forget that.”

Also be mindful of your store’s locality and its surrounding demographic when it comes to religious motifs and merchandise. Cozzini’s shop in Chicago is right down the road from both Holy Name Cathedral, one of the largest Roman Catholic dioceses in the country, and the Chicago Sinai Temple. “We keep it pretty neutral. I try to appeal to everybody, and want the look to be general holiday and beautiful,” she says. Keeping it neutral doesn’t mean you have to side step the obvious holiday merchandise. Cozzini keeps festive by adding Hanukah and Christmas books to the mix.

More than anything at this time of year, voice to your loyal customers that you’re thankful for their business not just at the holidays but all year long, too. Spread the good tidings you would share with your friends and family and live the season’s message, Cahan says, adding, “In a world where no one knows what’s going to happen minute to minute, if someone has a heart-expanding moment in your store, it will be noticed and appreciated.”

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BREAK OUT YOUR books, sharpen your pencils and pay close attention: Keeping up with the diverse, modish and mercurial m^_ci e\ jeZWoÊi jm[[di _i de [Wio \[Wj$ J^Wdai je h[if[Yj[Z j[[dW][ \Wi^_ed Xbe]][hi b_a[ JWl_ =[l_died WdZ JL i^emi \[Wjkh_d] tween idols decked out in designer duds, it’s easier than ever for kids to keep up with current fads—which means retailers looking to appease this tricky demographic must be prepared to do their homework.

“Fashion is so much more accessible than it used to be,” confirms Amy Ackerman, tween division manager at the Ilene Oren & Company showroom, which represents more than a dozen tween and young Yedj[cfehWho XhWdZi$ ÇJ^[i[ ]_hbi Wh[ j[nj_d] ed j^[_h Y[bb f^ed[i1 j^[oÊh[ m^_pp[i ed j^[_h _FWZi"È i^[ WZZi$ ÇJ^[o Wh[ ^_f$È A^Wboc Schell, children’s editor for fashion forecasting firm Stylesight agrees, dej_d] j^Wj j^[ kX[h Yed\_Z[dj c[cX[hi e\ =[d[hWj_ed P beea je \[bbem fashionistas among their peers for style inspiration. “Natives to the Internet, they are constantly sharing through a community of curated cki_Y WdZ \Wi^_ed Xbe]i Yh[Wj[Z Xo ej^[h jm[[di"È i^[ [nfbW_di$ “Yesterday it was Teen Beat" Xkj dem c_Yhe#Xbe]i b_a[ JkcXbh _d\ehc jm[[diÊ jWij[i" _d\bk[dY[ j^[_h ijob[ WdZ [nfei[ j^[_h \Wi^_ed _Zebi$È For an age group infamous for its ambivalence, technology makes marketing to pre-teen girls an even bigger challenge, but savvy retail36 ;7HDI>7MI$9EC E9JE8;H (&''

ers may find the risk is worth the reward, Ackerman says. “From what retailers tell me, tween is the bulk of their business,” she adds. ÇJm[[di i[[ iec[j^_d] WdZ j^[o iWo" ÉCec ? d[[Z je m[Wh j^_i$Ê J^[o mWdj d[m ijk\\ Wbb j^[ j_c[$ J^[ jm[[d Z[ce]hWf^_Y _i j^[ Z[ce]hWf^ic that spends money.”

8kj m^Wj WXekj j^[ Xeoi5 M^_b[ j^[ XeoiÊ i_Z[ e\ j^[ YWj[]eho _i i[[_d] W i_c_bWh [nfWdi_ed m_j^ j^[ bWkdY^ e\ \Wi^_ed#\ehmWhZ XhWdZi like La Miniatura, the bulk of the market remains with the girls.

Stylesight’s associate children’s editor, Nicole Yee, notes that the difference in the girls’ market versus the boys’ echoes the difference in women’s and men’s apparel—the women’s market is simply more saturated. “Female tweenagers and their moms are more into finding _j[ci j^Wj c_c_Y mec[dÊi o[j \_j W fh[#j[[dÊi b_\[ijob[ WdZ \_]kh[$ 8eoi" on the other hand, can move more seamlessly into juniors’ and eventuWbbo _dje c[dÊi$ J^[_h i_b^ek[jj[i Wh[ e\j[d b[ii \kiio ie _j cWa[i _j [Wi_er for tween boys to find a proper fit in juniors’ or men’s,” Yee reports.

Dem" m_j^ jm[[d ]_hbi i^eff_d] \eh Wd [l[h#[nfWdZ_d] hWd][ e\ apparel and accessories and more brands jumping into the market (pop star siblings Jessica and Ashley Simpson recently announced a joint tween line), it’s an ideal time to tackle the pre-teen category. ?dj[h[ij[Z _d Xkba_d] kf oekh jm[[d e\\[h_d]i \eh ifh_d]5 =e W^[WZ and brush up with these basics.

MAKE MOM HAPPY, TOO

young shopper leaves empty handed, but it also helps “The most important thing about the tween market is Xebij[h jm[[d ]_hbiÊ Xkh][ed_d] Xkj \hW]_b[ i[b\#[ij[[c" you have two buyers: the girl and the mom,” says Gayatri especially at an age when body concerns are beginning Bhalla, a former DC-area tween retailer and writer who je jWa[ heej$ Ç=_hbi Wh[ Wj Wbb Z_\\[h[dj ijW][i e\ Z[l[befYel[hi jm[[d _iik[i Wi CiJm_nj Wj www.mstwixt.com$ ment at this age, so you have to accommodate a range @[dd_\[h CWpk[bei" emd[h e\ 7kij_d#XWi[Z Y^_bZh[dÊi e\ XeZo jof[i"È ik]][iji 8^WbbW$ ÇOek d[[Z W Xb[dZ e\ Xekj_gk[ ?ppo WdZ 7i^" W]h[[i0 ÇJm[[di Wh[ beea_d] je silhouettes, some that are thinner cut and some that be more grown up, but the moms still want them to be Wh[ ceh[ WYYecceZWj_d]" WdZ oek d[[Z je ^Wl[ W c_n j^[_h a_Zi" j^[_h XWX_[i"È i^[ [nfbW_di$ Ç?jÊi WXekj \_dZ_d] e\ XhWdZi _d WZZ_j_ed je W c_n e\ i_p[i$È 8^WbbW dej[i j^Wj the lines that meet the sophistication that the tween jeans are especially challenging and suggests retailers d[[Zi" m^_b[ cWa_d] _j Wffhefh_Wj[ \eh j^[_h W][$È J^[ offer the uber-popular skinny fit as well as wider cuts balance is especially important for boutique buyers, WdZ Yec\ehjWXb[ b[]]_d]i$ Ç? ZedÊj mWdj Wdo Y^_bZ je since parents often go to local shops to escape the “mall walk in here and not find anything that fits her body, c[djWb_jo"È iWoi >_bbWho <hWdY_i" emd[h e\ 8[bbW#C_" W X[YWki[ j^Wj YWd X[ h[Wbbo \hkijhWj_d]"È <hWdY_i W]h[[i$ Y^_bZh[dÊi i^ef XWi[Z _d 7kij_d" JN$ M_j^ ijeh[i b_a[ “I try to offer a lot of styles that can be very flattering 7X[hYhecX_[ <_jY^ ijea_d] Yedjhel[hio _d h[Y[dj \eh [l[ho XeZo jof[$È years by offering thongs and padded bikinis for younger ?dYh[Wi_d]bo" 7Ya[hcWd iWoi" Y^_bZh[dÊi h[jW_b[hi Wh[ girls, boutiques have an opportunity to step into the scouting the young contemporary and junior markets to void and entice both daughter \_dZ _j[ci je \_j jm[[di$ 7j j^[ and mom by offering stylish yet ?b[d[ Eh[d 9ecfWdo i^emW][#Wffhefh_Wj[ _j[ci$ ÇAdem room, retailers struggling to find oekh Ykijec[h"È <hWdY_i WZl_i[i$ age-appropriate items for grow“If you have a huge conservative _d] jm[[di \beYa je A_ZZeÊi oekd] IT’S ABOUT \ebbem_d]" \_dZ iec[j^_d] j^WjÊi contemporary brand Lovemarks Xej^ jh[dZo WdZ Yedi[hlWj_l[$ WdZ `[Wdi \hec JhWYjeh _d i_p[i Ekh Ykijec[hi adem m[Êh[ dej (* je )($ ÇM[Êl[ ^WZ je jWf _dje FINDING THE LINES going to put their daughters in the junior market, because a lot Wdoj^_d] j^WjÊi dej Wffhefh_Wj[ of the kids that come in are growTHAT MEET THE \eh j^[c$È _d] ekj e\ i_p[ '*%'," ie W bej e\ Increasingly, however, retailwhat I search for are junior lines SOPHISTICATION THAT ers note that tween girls are j^Wj Wh[ W][ Wffhefh_Wj["È <hWdY_i Zh_l_d] fWh[djiÊ fkhY^Wi[i$ Wj 8[bbW#C_ Yed\_hci" fe_dj_d] je “Ultimately, in our society now, Ifb[dZ_Z WdZ ;bbW Ceii Wi XhWdZi THE TWEEN NEEDS, parents are letting kids make that successfully bridge the tween Z[Y_i_edi WXekj m^Wj j^[oÊh[ je j[[d ]Wf$ 7j <hWda_[Êi ed j^[ WHILE MAKING IT wearing because it gives them FWha" W 9^_YW]e#XWi[Z Xekj_gk[ W i[di[ e\ \h[[Zec"È CWpk[bei for tweens, teens and women, APPROPRIATE FOR dej[i$ ÇFWh[dji Wh[dÊj ]e_d] je owner Rae Lisenby reports that buy it unless they know their “most of our tweens are shopping kids like it, because if not, they _d j^[ mec[dÊi i[Yj_ed m^[d j^[o THEIR AGE. Wh[dÊj ]e_d] je m[Wh _j$ ?jÊi ]ej je Wh[ '( eh ')$È be something the tween feels is 7dZ m^_b[ Ê.&i [hW Yhef#jefi trendy and a little more sophistiand mini skirts may be all the rage, cated than anything a kids store [nf[hji ik]][ij h[jW_b[hi fW_h j^[ _i ]e_d] je YWhho$È Je j^Wj [dZ" revealing styles with tank tops and <hWdY_i Wj 8[bbW#C_ a[[fi ^[h jm[[d i[b[Yj_ed i[fWhWj[ b[]]_d]i$ ÇJm[[di Wh[ l[ho i[b\#YediY_eki ie j^[o cWo X[ \hec j^[ icWbb[h i_p[i _d j^[ ijeh[$ Ç7 bej e\ a_Zi Yec[ wary of anything that fits too tightly or shows a bit of skin,” _d WdZ j^[o \[[b b_a[ j^[o ZedÊj mWdj je X[ i^eff_d] m_j^ dej[i O[[ Wj Ijob[i_]^j$ 7Ya[hcWd iWoi j^Wj XWdZ[Wk WdZ j^[ XWXo ijk\\" ie _jÊi _cfehjWdj j^Wj _j ^Wi _ji emd Wh[W"È tank tops are big sellers at her showroom, where retailers i^[ [nfbW_di$ ?d \WYj" <hWdY_i e\j[d YebbkZ[i m_j^ fWhh[fehj j^Wj ]_hbi bWo[h j^[ jefi kdZ[h Wbceij [l[hoj^_d]$ ents to ensure tweens select age-appropriate items but b[Wl[ j^[ ijeh[ iWj_i\_[Z$ ÇM[ m_bb ^Wl[ ceci Yec[ _d and pick things out before they bring their daughters in STAY ON TREND so we can steer the girls in a certain direction—because A[[f_d] WfWY[ m_j^ j^[ YedijWdjbo [lebl_d] jWij[i e\ _\ j^[_h ceci Wffhel[" j^[o medÊj"È i^[ iWoi$ ÇM[Êl[ pre-teens can be a tough assignment, but tuning in WYjkWbbo Zed[ j^Wj gk_j[ e\j[d$È to the tween market is easier than ever, thanks to TV shows and celebrities that instantly inspire fads among j^[_h \ebbem[hi$ ÇBeea_d] Wj j^[ c[Z_W WdZ fef Ykbture is so huge, especially looking at Disney shows like STOCK UP iCarly"È 8^WbbW WZl_i[i$ ÇBeea Wj ^em JWobeh Im_\j i_d]b[ Retailers note that maintaining a wide selection of ^WdZ[Zbo Xhek]^j XWYa j^[ XWbb[h_dW Zh[ii$È 8^WbbW Wbie styles and silhouettes will not only ensure that no

TWEEN WISH LIST RETAILERS AND DESIGNERS SHARE PRE-TEEN MUSTHAVES. COLOR DENIM

!iT Jeans DOLMAN SLEEVES

Erge FAUX FUR VESTS

Peas and Queues AZTEC PRINTS

Lucy Girls FEATHER HAIR ACCESSORIES

Funky Junque

E9JE8;H (&'' ;7HDI>7MI$9EC 37

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE MUSIC THAT

suggests retailers look to designers in Europe and Australia, who she notes often have a more creative eye. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Their designs arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t as cutesy and juvenile and work well for tweens,â&#x20AC;? she says.

Teddi Moskovitz, co-owner of online childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boutique Little Miss Hipster, recommends good old-fashioned detective work when it comes to spotting trends. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Really keep on top of whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in by talking to your customers, neighbors and friends,â&#x20AC;? she suggests. â&#x20AC;&#x153;When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re at the mall, watch what tweens are picking up. Look at what they are going for, and what their parents are steering them towards and find the happy medium,â&#x20AC;? she adds. And look to your own closet, experts suggest, since nowadays many tween trends are filtering immediately down from the womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market. â&#x20AC;&#x153;What I try to do is pay more attention to womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trends and then translate them down,â&#x20AC;? confirms Hollie Watman, design coordinator for childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apparel and accessory brand Peace of Cake. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Rather than going to whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s already out there, I find it more inspiring and think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a little more fresh to take what I see on the runways and, for example, pop it with neon for tweens.â&#x20AC;? However, Lisenby at Frankieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on the Park cautions that tween girls may be slightly slower to embrace trends than their older counterparts, noting that last summer she didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sell a single maxi dress, while this summer the style is one of her most popular items. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You have to wait a season for them to see itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s happening,â&#x20AC;? she points out.

ATTITUDE IS EVERYTHING

Keeping tweens coming back for more is often a matter of making them feel like rock stars and offering an experience they canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find at the mall. Frankieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on the Park features a stage and three-way mirror where girls can model their ensembles for their friends, and the shopâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website features a â&#x20AC;&#x153;Girl of the Weekâ&#x20AC;? sporting her selected duds. Also contributing to the all-star environment, Bhalla says, is keeping kid-friendly tunes on at all time. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just turn on the local radio station,â&#x20AC;? she advises. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Make sure you have music that the parents arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t going to cringe at that is still upbeat and trendy.â&#x20AC;?

And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to stock your store with trinkets that girls can buy with their allowance. â&#x20AC;&#x153;One of the most popular items at the boutique was our specialty candy that you couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get widely elsewhere, and the girls loved it. It was a place for them to spend their own pocket money,â&#x20AC;? Bhalla says, noting itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good idea to keep this merchandise at the eye-level of little shoppers. Mazuelos says tween girls love to gift their friends hand-painted Momiji message dolls at Izzy and Ash, as well as jewelry, hair clips and room accessories. And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be afraid to branch beyond apparel, Bhalla adds. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Think about accessories not just as clothing accessories but anything that accessorizes a space for a jm[[dĂ&#x2020;m^[j^[h _jĂ&#x160;i W X[Zheec" beYa[h" Z[ia eh X_dZ[h$Ă&#x2C6; Â&#x161;

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A. Bird striped romper.

40

Opposite page: Bonnie Young velvet blazer and tuxedo shirt, The Magic Wardrobe shorts, bow tie by Tom & Drew.

42

This page, from left: Dj채knem책la swan blouse, Le Vestiaire de Jeanne bubble shorts; Authentic Papermoon seersucker blazer and striped shorts, linen shirt

by Europann, Wheat check scarf. Opposite page: Tom & Drew fedora, A. Bird ruffle blouse and romper worn as shorts, Bloch ballet flats.

44

45

From left: Le Vestiaire de Jeanne sleeveless linen blouse, Miss b striped T-shirt, romper shorts by A. Bird, Bloch ballet flats; Dj채knem책la swan blouse, Le Vestiaire de Jeanne bubble shorts, Bloch ballet flats.

46

47

This page: La Miniatura chambray blazer, Dj채knem책la white bubble dress with leaf embroidery, Kit + Lili striped leggings. Opposite page: Ralph Lauren white tank; Blu Pony Vintage knickers.

48

49

This page: Bonnie Young white romper, Bloch ballet flats.

Opposite page: Europann linen shirt, Le Vestiaire de Jeanne tan and cream striped shorts, stylist's desert boots.

Style Director: Michel Onofrio Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez Hair and Makeup: Laura Bernard

50

51

CALENDAR

C7HA;J :7J;I ;L;DJI

Oct. 27-30 Dallas Women’s & Children’s Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas, TX

17-20

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (') ,)&#),&& www.californiamarketcenter.com/kids

21-25

Dehj^ 8hWdY^ A_Zi I^em '((/ D$ Dehj^ 8hWdY^" )hZ <beeh Chicago, IL www.northbranchkids.com

22-25

J^[ 9^_bZh[dÊi I^em Wj :[[h\_[bZ Embassy Suites North Shore :[[h\_[bZ" ?B (*. *-.#'-)( www.midwestchildrens apparelgroup.com

OCTOBER 2-4

ENK Children’s Club Javits Center ''j^ 7l[dk[ WdZ )/j^ Ij$ New York, NY ('( -+/#.&++ www.enkshows.com

9-10

Pittsburgh Fashion Mart Embassy Suites Hotel Coraopolis, PA ... (-'#+++. pfmwoschild@yahoo.com

13-16

7jbWdjW Mec[dÊi 9^_bZh[dÊi 7ffWh[b Accessories Market AmericasMart, Atlanta, GA *&* ((&#)&&& www.americasmart.com

16-18

Minneapolis Apparel Market St. Paul River Centre '-+ A[bbe]] 8blZ$ M[ij Saint Paul, MN -,) +*,#.-'- www.northstarfashion.com 52 ;7HDI>7MI$9EC E9JE8;H (&''

22-24

NW Kids Show :ekXb[Jh[[ =k[ij Ik_j[i" Iekj^Y[dj[h ',+&& Iekj^Y[dj[h FWhamWo Seattle, WA (&, +-+#.((& www.nwkidsshow.com

22-25

Kidz at StyleMax J^[ C[hY^WdZ_i[ CWhj ((( C[hY^WdZ_i[ CWhj FbWpW -j^ <beeh CWha[j Ik_j[i Chicago, IL .&& ,--#,(-. www.kidzatstylemax.com

23-26

Kd_j[Z 8eijed 9^_bZh[dÊi M[Wh I^em -+ CYD[_b MWo :[Z^Wc" C7 -.' *&-#&&++ www.unitedbostonchildrenswear.com

24-28

NY Kids Market )* M[ij ))hZ Ij$ New York, NY www.nykidsmarket.org

27-30

:WbbWi Mec[dÊi 9^_bZh[dÊi 7ffWh[b 7YY[iieh_[i CWha[j :WbbWi CWha[j 9[dj[h :WbbWi" JN ('* ,++#,'&& www.dallasmarketcenter.com

31-Nov. 2

Pacific Northwest Apparel Association >_bjed 8[bb[lk[ )&& ''(j^ 7l[$ I; 8[bb[lk[" M7 www.nwtrendshow.com

JANUARY 7-10

Philadelphia Gift Show Greater Philadelphia Expo Center Oaks, PA ,-. (.+#)/-, www.urban-expo.com

19-21

F_jj_ ?CC7=?D; 8_cXe <ehj[ppW ZW 8Wiie L_Wb[ <$ Ijhepp_ ' Florence, Italy www.pittiimmagine.com

22-24

ENK Children’s Club Javits Center ''j^ 7l[dk[ WdZ )/j^ Ij$ New York, NY ('( -+/#.&++ www.enkshows.com

22-24

Minneapolis Apparel Market St. Paul River Centre '-+ A[bbe]] 8blZ$ M[ij Saint Paul, MN -,) +*,#.-'www.northstarfashion.com

CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

28-30

Playtime Paris Parc Floral de Paris, lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;espace EvĂŠnement Route de la Pyramide Paris, France www.playtimeparis.com

28-30

Kidz at StyleMax The Merchandise Mart 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza 7th Floor Market Suites, Chicago, IL (800) 677-6278 www.kidzatstylemax.com

28-Feb. 2

New York International Gift Fair Javits Convention Center 655 W 34th St. New York, NY (212) 216-2000 www.nyigf.com

FEBRUARY 2-5

Copenhagen International Fashion Fair Bella Center Copenhagen, Denmark www.ciffkids.dk

12-15

Toy Fair Javits Center 11th Avenue and 39th St. New York, NY (212) 675-1141 www.toyfairny.com

13-15

Magic Marketplace Mandalay Bay & Las Vegas Convention Centers Las Vegas, NV www.magiconline.com

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Jan. 28-30 Playtime Paris Paris, France

Petit Bateau, winner of Earnieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best European Brand.

Merci to our loyal clients and friends!

CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

March 11-13 ENK Children’s Club Javits Center New York City

MARCH 11-13

ENK Children’s Club Javits Center 11th Avenue and 39th St. New York, NY (212) 759-8055 www.enkshows.com

24-27

Kidz at StyleMax The Merchandise Mart 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza 7th Floor Market Suites, Chicago, IL (800) 677-6278 www.kidzatstylemax.com Editor’s Note: Show details are subject to change.

Please call the phone numbers or visit the show websites for up-to-date schedules. Show sponsors may send updates to editorialrequests@9threads.com.

10-12

Playtime New York 82 Mercer New York, NY (212) 563-7301 www.playtimeny.com

Net TULLE Tricot www.tutufabric.com Fashion Fabrics

2012 COLLECTION FLOWER GIRL | COMMUNION | SPECIAL OCCASION

ATLANTA - THE CHILDREN’S CLOTHESHORSE – 404.524.8897 CHICAGO – CHICAGO GALLERY – 312.751.6800 DALLAS – THE CLOSET- 214.634.2402 LOS ANGELES – DON WELBORN & ASSOCIATES – 213.688.4953 NEW YORK – THE SHOWROOM – 212.947.3443 CORPORATE OFFICE – 213.624.4477 VISIT US AT: WWW.USANGELS.COM

MALI KIDS This season Mali Kids builds upon its use of classic denim by introducing intricate embroidery and color blocking. Maintaining its sturdy yet youthful aesthetic, Spring/Summer 2012 embraces a feeling of light and fun cheer with a balance of sophistication.

The bright pastel colors complement the minimal silhouettes. The ruffle accents give movement to the pieces while the continuation of stripes emphasizes the array of vibrancy in shades of mint, purple, yellow and raspberry. The subtle mixture of denim and vivid pastels, textured fabrics and detailed accents unifies the collection. Wholesale prices start at $14. Size range: 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 14 years. Visit us at ENK!

STYLE INCUBATOR

Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got style.

Earnshawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is pleased to introduce you to these new brands in the childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion industry.

SHOWROOMS: Thread KIDS NY (212) 801-2387 terra@threadshowroom.com Bobbie Brody Showroom - Chicago (312) 664-3911 bobbie@bobbiebrody.com Metropolitan Kids - Los Angeles (213) 533-0830 michael@metrokidsla.com Button Up! - Dallas (469) 826-1400 beth@buttonupdallas.net Teacup Tots - Atlanta (800) 584-3907 heather@teacuptots.com

KASHKA BY KIDCUTETURE Kashka by KidCuteTure is a playful and daring clothing and accessories line for infants and toddlers (3 months to 5 years). The line translates KidCuteTureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature look of inventive silhouettes, gorgeous fabrics and surprising embellishments into a collection comprised of girly playsuits, striped rompers, darling bonnets, diaper covers and one-ofa-kind dresses. Kashkaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trendsetting sporty-lux styles demand attention and satisfy creative tastes. The company is

www.mali-kids.com info@mali-kids.com

fast building a reputation for creating modern fashions kids really want to wear. www.kidcuteture.com Contact us at: (609) 216-7490 Sales: Olga Pantelyat, Sales Associate; (609) 216-7490; olga@kidcuteture.com Visit us at ENK Booth #8205

TINY OPERA TEES Tiny Opera Tees introduces a distinctive line of children’s apparel. Splendid colors, playful designs and undeniable sophistication are the hallmarks of these 100-percent cotton theatrically-inspired T-shirts.

Whether your child is wearing Tosca’s painter, Rigoletto’s bouncing court jester, Pagliacci’s crying clown, or any of the other six designs, heads are bound to turn at the sight of these delightful characters. Already receiving rave reviews from the New York critics, they are being called smart but childlike and a long awaited welcome to the stage!

Boys’ and girls’ sizes 2T-7.

Wholesale: $14.

VBEE’S BY VERNELL’S A classic collection for boys

Let us be your first stop for boys!

The Vbee’s by Vernell’s Line carries a wide range of products for boys, including classic dresswear, Easter holiday jackets and separates, fun playwear, cruise wear and reversible jackets that go from classic sporty to sharp dressy. Available in sizes layette to 8, all garments come in unique prints or soft palette of blues, mint and black. When it comes to infant wear, we offer sports and race rompers, as well as various organic styles.

www.tinyoperatees.com ebasquill@nyc.rr.com

THE TANGERINE TREE

Contact us at: (877) 483-7635 customerservice@vernells.com

www.vernells.com

SONS + DAUGHTERS EYEWEAR

An undercurrent of fun permeates The Tangerine Tree’s smart and colorful collection of children’s organic clothing.

Our Spring 2012 line, inspired by the beach, has great designs with cute accents of little submarines, whales, mermaids, octopuses, crabs, and seahorses, in bright, vibrant colors.

The incredibly high-quality fabric is buttery soft and has a great hand feel. We feature dresses, tees, polos, rompers, skirts, gaucho pants, leggings and shorts in sizes 0 to 6X/7.

Canadian-born Sons + Daughters Eyewear presents children’s sunglasses so slick that parents will be wishing they came in big-head sizes.

We pride ourselves on providing the highest quality designed and manufactured eyewear for kids.

With an equal emphasis on safety and style, your child’s eyeballs will be well framed and well protected.

Visit us at Booth Number 9235 at ENK this October or at www.thetangerinetree.com

Contact us at: (646) 436-6616

Contact us at: Shefali Shirhatti, founder (512) 632-8883 shefali@thetangerinetree.com

And Christmas and Halloween crewnecks and one-pieces are available as immediates!

View the line at Cyrilla and Company Showrooms in Atlanta and Dallas.

Contact them at (404) 584-5775 or (800) 466-5775. Place an order at a trade show and receive free advertising in your local hometown newspaper.

We are currently seeking sales representatives in the New York, LA, and Mid-Atlantic Region.

SALES: Shiva Shabani shiva@wearesonsand daughters.com (778) 889-0544

www.WeAreSonsAndDaughters.com ENK Children’s Club NYC Oct. 2-4

Lauren Bass lauren@wearesons anddaughters.com (646) 436-6616

M ARKETPLACE A Small Bundle of Joy...A BIG Bundle of Paperwork! $!ƫMultiple Award Winningƫ 5ƫ .%!" /!ƫ®ƫƫ %/ƫ!(!# *0(5ƫ !/%#*! ƫĒƫ ü((! ƫ3%0$ƫ3 5/ƫ0+ƫ+.# *%6!ƫ 0$!ƫ )%*%/0. 0%2!ƫ $ +/ƫ ! 10%"1((5ċ đƫ ƫ 1/0ġ 2!ƫ%*ƫ 2!.5ƫ 5!00!ƫ ƫƫƫ *" *0ƫ !, .0)!*0 đƫ $!ƫ !."! 0ƫ $+3!.ƫ+.ƫƫ ƫƫƫ !3ƫ 5ƫ %"0ēƫ đƫ 2!.ƫāĀĀČĀĀĀƫ/+( ƫĸĂĊċĊĆ wholesale@babybriefcase.com +((ƫ .!!ƫ . !.čƫĉĉĉġćĉĊġććĉĂƫ

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Join Earnshawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Marketplace Earnshaw's Marketplace maximizes small budgets for emerging infant and toddler companies. Tout your up-and-coming apparel or juvenile product collections to retailers looking for new resources targeting newborns through pre-schoolers.

Call (646) 278-1510 Alexandra.Marinacci@9threads.com

REMIX

2

1

3

STYLIST: DARBY AGE: 9 HOMETOWN: NEW YORK CITY Go ahead and take a stab at our October stylist’s favorite color. Purple, obviously. This native New Yorker favors the royal shade and was excited to shop the coveted Earnshaw’s rack after her very first day of fourth grade. With Spotify queued up to her favorite singer, Taylor Swift, Darby pared down her picks while “Never Grow Up” played in the background.

This fashionista’s style splits between boho ’60s and super girly, but we see no problem with that.

After all, variety really is the spice of life.

—Meagan Walker

5 4

7

3

1. Studded sunglasses by Peace of Cake 2. Sweat set by Vintage Havana, Bows Arts zebra headband 3. Racerback tunic and purple leggings by Plum Pudding, Bows Arts headband 4. Tie-dye hoodie by Vintage Havana 5. Lace-up ribbon boots by Ugg 6. Bloch ballet flats 7. V-neck empirewaisted dress by Plum Pudding, Ugg clogs.

6 0 E A R N S H AW S . C O M

PHOTOGRAPHER: NANCY CAMPBELL.

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