APRIL/MAY 2022 VOL 32 • ISSUE 4 • $10
MIDSOLE MIRACLE IS ORTHOLITE’S CIRQL FOAM AN INDUSTRY GAME-CHANGER? THIS JUST IN PLATFORMS RULE TRADE SHOWS TRUCE FDRA FORMS COUNCIL TO WORK TOGETHER TREND SPOTTING ECO-FRIENDLY BOOTS & KICKS
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A P R I L / M AY 2 0 2 2
Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Kathy Passero Editor at Large Ann Loynd Burton Fashion Editor Bernadette Starzee Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Belinda Pina Director of Sales Noelle Heffernan Senior Account Manager PA G E
22 P448 tennies feature regenerated suede and synthetic fiber uppers using a chrome-free tanning method that reduces water consumption by 67 percent, uses 29 percent less chemicals and cuts CO2 emissions by 50 percent compared to standard tanning processes.
Laurie Guptill Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman
F E AT U R E S
D E PA RT M E N T S
12 Full Circle Glenn Barrett, founder and CEO of OrthoLite, is celebrating the components company’s 25th anniversary by launching a game-changing midsole material. The party is just getting started. By Greg Dutter
4 Editor’s Note
22 Color My World Sporty silhouettes in snappy shades put a fresh spin on sustainable design. By Ann Loynd Burton
6 This Just In 8 Green & Heard 18 Trend Spotting 20 A Note to My Younger Self 34 Shoe Salon 37 Trend Spotting 40 Last Shot
Mark Dowden President & CEO
On cover: Franco Sarto joggers feature leather uppers responsibly sourced through the Leather Working Group and plant-based and recycled fabric linings. Photography by Trevett McCandliss; styling by Nancy Campbell; fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; models: Mai Karybekova/Major Model Mgmt.; Naoki/Fenton Model Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/Ray Brown Pro; photo assistants: Kevin McKeown, Raymond Collette.
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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.
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Tour Knit
NEW Colors for Spring 2022
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LOW HANGING
F R U I T. 4/18/22 10:53 11:07 AM AM 4/21/22
E D I TOR’S NOT E
Tick, Tick…Boom
Mother Nature Knows Best AS A KID growing up in the ’70s, one of the TV commercials that became entrenched in my pop culture-cluttered mind was Chiffon margarine’s “It’s Not Nice to Fool Mother Nature.” The spots, which aired from 1971 to ’79 (quite a run!), featured a portrayal of Mother Nature, dressed in a flowing white gown and a daisy crown, sampling what she believed to be butter made of the usual heavy cream. Our goddess, however, was really tasting margarine, and while she thoroughly enjoyed it, she was quick to anger at being duped. Her warm expression snapped into an angry glare while an ominous thunderclap and lightning flash followed for dramatic effect. The ad never sold me on margarine, but the dangers of ticking off Mother Nature left quite an impression. I firmly believe the real goddess, Earth’s ultimate tree hugger, is never fooled—by anything or anyone. But, as the ad demonstrated, she can get very angry and vengeful toward those who cross her. Take, for example, Mao Zedong, who ruled China from 1949 to 1976. In general, the Communist party chairman didn’t respect nature, believing it should be subservient to humans’ wants. In 1958, the autocrat outdid himself when he issued a decree for citizens to kill sparrows as part of his Four Pests campaign, which included flies, mosquitos and rats. Millions of sparrows were slaughtered as people obediently shot them, destroyed their nests and banged on pots and pans until the birds died of exhaustion. It was viciously efficient. Slight problem, however. Turns out the sparrows ate the real pests (locusts, primarily) and that, combined with deforestation and an epically screwed up agricultural policy, led to a famine during which up to 45 million people died! Mother Nature’s payback, in this instance, was a real bitch. Tragically, we humans keep failing to heed Mother Nature’s warnings. No matter how many times our polluting ways cause great and even irreparable harm, we don’t seem to learn from the painful consequences, be they disease, displacement or death. And whether it’s the scorched earth toll from Russia’s relentless shelling of Ukraine, or lack of a worldwide concerted effort to address climate change, humans have been beating Mother Nature to a pulp for centuries. Her stamina, while impressive, may have limits. I fear that soon she might say enough is enough; there’s a tipping point where the ultimate payback awaits us all. But maybe it’s not too late to end our dirty ways and treat Mother Nature with the respect she deserves. Every sustainable effort counts— individually, corporately and industry-wide. There are snowball effects and tipping points—the good kind—that can be reached. For example, on a national scale, we created the EPA, passed Clean Air and Clean
Water acts, got the lead out of gasoline, banned harmful pesticides and chemicals, established vast nature preserves, embraced recycling and organic farming, etc. It can be done. And it’s being done increasingly within our industry. In fact, Andy Polk, sustainability point person for the FDRA, is downright optimistic about the progress being made. He cites the organization’s annual Sustainability Benchmark survey that showed only 34 percent of companies had clear sustainability goals and targets in 2019; Polk expects that figure to spike to more than 50 percent by year’s end. He points to several macro factors fueling the shift. It’s led by a flood of sustainable material innovations— ones that used to come in at a trickle. Equally important is the growing collaboration on use of those materials and the sharing of best practices. Not only does sharing lead to a greater good, it lowers costs. See p. 38 for more on Polk’s eco insights and why he believes we are on a path to making sustainability standard practice. Being green, as a certain Muppet lamented, is not easy. It takes tremendous effort, expense and expertise. Encouragingly, though, our industry is increasingly willing to make the investment, realizing the long-term benefits far outweigh any near-term sacrifices. A key part of this effort involves bringing in outside expertise. We need assistance. We also need experts to hold us accountable. Twisted X, for example, recently hired Kristy Rosica, its first-ever Sustainability Strategist (p. 9). Her job is to make sure the company’s many efforts stay on track by adhering to sustainability’s triple bottom line: people, planet and profit. Rosica says the fact that Twisted X made such a hire, and is willing to absorb upfront costs in order to do the right thing environmentally, proves that its sustainability platform is much more than a marketing gimmick. On that note, poseurs, a.k.a. greenwashers, beware of being outed in age of cancel culture. The payback is not worth the risks of faking it. It’s why Glenn Barrett, founder and CEO of OrthoLite and subject of this issue’s Q&A (p. 12), has made sure the sustainability claims related to its new midsole material, Cirql, have been vetted by outside experts every step of the way. A potential industry game-changer, Cirql is an EVA-like foam that is free of harmful chemicals and can be repeatedly recycled. It can also be industrial composted into clean dirt in a few months. That is circularity, the Holy Grail of sustainability. Barrett, whose company cornered the insoles market over the past 25 years, is confident that Cirql will revolutionize the midsoles market and, in doing so, prevent millions and millions of polluting shoe plastics from clogging landfills around the world. That’s huge. Barrett and his team reflect the finest of the big dreamers and doers working on the front lines of sustainability in our industry. As they know, we can and must do better. Mother Nature is urging us to—or else.
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
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THIS JUST IN
High and Mighty Platforms rule the chic fashion streets of Milan, New York and Paris this spring. Photography by Marcy Swingle
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GREEN & HEARD
The ATL Trex Wally a.k.a. a rugged Wallabee.
Clarks Making Sustainability Strides ECO-FRIENDLY DESIGNS are not new to Clarks as the company has introduced several collections over the past few years that incorporate sustainable materials—like its Origins, Aceley and, most recently, ATL (All Terrain Leisure) lines. The latest installment, the ATL Trek Wally, is a hybrid classic Wallabee/hiker that hits the trail running—literally. “From responsibly sourced uppers and recycled-content underfoot cushioning, to part bio-based EVA midsoles featuring sugarcane and Rock rubber outsoles consisting of eight percent recycled regrind content, this new style is primed for performance and developed with care for the earth,” says Chief Marketing Officer Tara McRae. “Born from innovation and built for adventure, ATL is a performance-ready outdoor collection, perfected for every day, everywhere wear.” McRae says the ATL collection (SRP: $130) is aimed at active consumers. “People who are always on the move and see all terrain as their terrain,” she says. “Those who want comfortable performance footwear that enables them to get outdoors and seek new experiences. They also value authentic, responsible brands.” Speaking of which, McRae says sustainability is an essential pillar of Clarks. That includes the launch, earlier this year, of a sustainability advisory panel consisting of leading experts on the environment, sustainable materials and diversity and inclusion. The panel will work closely with the company, providing advice on strategy, plans and the execution of Clarks’ global approach as it continues on a journey towards lasting sustainability. “We’re known for acting with integrity, and it’s our collective responsibility to maintain that reputation through every aspect of the business,” McRae says. “We’re on a journey, evolving every single day.”
Did You Hear? IT’S DUBBED THE Air Baffle, a noise-reducing ceiling installation inspired by the modern lines of Nike’s legendary Air Max sneaker and, more importantly, filled with Nike Grind, a mix of recycled materials created from the company’s end-of-life footwear. Manufactured by Kirei, makers of eco-friendly interior designs, the Air Baffle marks the first time Nike’s new recycled Fluff material has been used in a commercial product. It’s only fitting that the Air Baffle is designed by longtime Nike designer, Michael DiTullo. Now creative director of Kirei, he has worked on hundreds of shoes for Nike, Jordan, Converse and other brands during his career. He’s also put his talents to Nike packaging, advertising and brand positioning projects. And now with his Air Baffle, DiTullo brings his design skills full circle, so to speak. “It was a real joy to design a product that helps rescue shoes from the landfill at the end of their useful life as footwear and find a new, long-lasting use for them as a visually striking architectural acoustic product,” DiTullo says. Just how many ground-up Nike shoes fill an Air Baffle? The short answer: a lot. For curiosity’s sake, though, DiTullo says a big, open area, like a hotel lobby, an office or a NikeTown might feature 20 medium-length baffles. “Each of those baffles are filled with more than 100 shoes, so a single installation saves more than 2,000 shoes from the landfill,” he says, adding that the exterior is made of 60 percent recycled plastic water bottles, or approximately 2,350 water bottles for an average installation. “Think if every NikeTown across the world used this. We’d be talking about a lot of shoes and water bottles!” (Not so) fun fact: the U.S. throws away up to 11.3 million tons of textile waste annually, according to the EPA. Worse, 87 percent of the total fiber input used for clothing is ultimately incinerated or sent to a landfill. To help address this issue, Nike stores feature collection bins for old shoes to turn into Nike Grind. Over the past three decades, about 130 million pounds of Nike Grind has been recycled into products like furniture, running tracks, skateboards and even space shuttles. DiTullo urges everyone to keep recycling their old Nikes, as there’s plenty of potential uses for Fluff in future Kirei designs. “It could be used to fill any acoustic product, and possibly for a lot of other products—maybe even cushioning for furniture,” he says. “Imagine sitting on a sofa filled with shredded Nikes!”
Noise reduction to the (Air) max.
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GREEN & HEARD
Twisted X Hires First Ever Sustainability Strategist Kristy Rosica
Zero-X collection features a no-glue construction.
IT WASN’T TOO long ago when sustainability wasn’t even part of the industry conversation. But the past few years have seen leaps forward on the eco-friendly front, spanning materials, manufacturing and supply chain. Now, sustainability in all its various forms has hit a tipping point of not if, but how much, by companies of all sizes. In fact, sustainability has become a dynamic field unto itself. You might even say you need an expert just to oversee it all. Enter Kristy Rosica, Twisted X’s first-ever Sustainability Strategist. The 17-year-old Decatur, TX-based western, work and lifestyle company has been at the forefront of sustainability best practices for years but decided it needed to coalesce all its numerous efforts under the guidance of an expert. Rosica, who owns a BA in Sustainability Studies and an MA in Global Sustainability, is charged with making sure Twisted X continues on its greener path smartly, effectively and profitably. “My main focus is to quantify and communicate the sustainability initiatives of Twisted X,” Rosica says. That includes analyzing current efforts, incorporating new strategies and letting consumers know about it. “I serve as a liaison between multiple teams and third-party partners to drive change within the organization that ladders back up to Twisted X’s established sustainability goals,” she adds. Rosica represents a wave of sustainability experts entering the footwear industry. Like many of her peers, she brings a fresh perspective, skills and vision to not only lead her company
on a cleaner path, but to also change the industry’s collective mindset. Here, Rosica talks shop, goals and why this is a (green) dream job. Did you always dream of working in the sustainability field? The environment has always been an important part of my life. In middle school, I saved tags from my clothes that would read “this shirt was made from recycled bottles” or “this shirt is helping to regenerate forests.” I pinned the tags on corkboards in my room, so it was always top of mind for me to do more. My education gave me the foundation of sustainability and how it intertwines with business in a way that should be communicated to consumers. It also taught me that there’s a triple bottom line in sustainability: people, planet and profit. That directly aligns with the values of Twisted X. What are Twisted X’s sustainability values? First off, for a company of their size, having a dedicated sustainability strategist is unheard of. They don’t just talk the talk, sustainability is truly in their DNA. My hire isn’t just for publicity. Plus, the materials they are already using and how passionate the employees are about sustainability shows such a strong commitment to the planet. I’m excited to expand upon these efforts. What are your initial orders of business? One of my first undertakings has been to take all of the great communication about sustainability, that was happening internally, outside our walls. While there were many initiatives in the >36
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GREEN & HEARD
FDRA Council Aims for Trade Shows Harmony is willing to be open and honest with dates and ideas, I think we can all CAN TRADE SHOWS all get along? work together for the betterment of the industry.” Historically that has often not been the case, as shows have overlapped As a trade show producer for over 30 years, Phyllis Rein, president dates and competed voraciously for exhibitor and buyer attendance— of FSNYE, says the overlap in dates has always been a major concern of usually in the desire to obtain coveted “national shoe show” status and buyers and sellers. “Eliminating this obstacle and confusion by spacing all the prestige and profits that come along with that unofficial moniker. out the dates will be an efficient way to serve our industry,” she says. But that seems so pre-pandemic as shows have all undergone tremen“Together with transparency we can continue to grow and serve our dous transformation in an effort to remain relevant and survive in the prestigious footwear industry.” pandemic-induced new normal. A growing consensus is that shows Gary Hauss, director of the IR Show in San Diego, believes sharing must coexist rather than compete for the collective good of themselves best practices can only help. As for the overlapping of dates, however, and the industry. that might be more of a challenge as some show dates are locked years in At least that’s the premise behind the Footwear Retailers & Distributors advance. “There are also dates that work for some members that I don’t of America’s (FDRA) recently formed Footwear Trade Show Council think they’ll change just because it’s better for someone else,” Hauss says. (FTSC). The organization is designed to align shows in a collaborative “And there are some of us who are just getting started, alliance to increase information sharing, explore best and we have limited power in deciding what dates we practices, line up critical dates, adapt to merchandiscan get from convention centers.” Still, Hauss believes ing model shifts and to strengthen the industry overall. communication is better than not talking at all. “As Joining FDRA and the Fashion Footwear Association of long as we keep the vendors and retailers as the most New York (FFANY) in the council are Informa (orgaimportant part of everything we do, then I believe the nizers of Magic and Project), The Atlanta Shoe Market council can mean something.” (TASM), Dallas Market Center, MICAM, Footwear Show Priest, along with Sandi Mines, FDRA vice president New York Expo (FSNYE), Chicago Shoe Market, Boston and FTSC chair, are confident the council will serve its Shoe Travelers Association (BSTA), Great Event Show stated mission. It must, Priest believes, if shows want and The IR Show along with industry organizations to remain relevant in a fast-changing industry landUSRA, NSRA and NST. scape where product development cycles are changing Matt Priest, president and CEO of FDRA, cites the current rapidly, which means show schedules may need to shift highly fragmented and regionalized show landscape as a to adapt to new needs. “That is just one big issue we key impetus for the council. “We thought the time was ripe think this group can help address together,” he says. to gather all the players in one room to begin developing “In our new and fragmented post-Covid environment, and, in some ways, rekindling our relationships across Matt Priest, president and CEO, FDRA shows of all different types and sizes are looking for shows,” he says, noting that the plan is to meet regularly opportunities to ensure that buyers and sellers are virtually and in-person. “First and foremost, we want connecting in impactful ways in markets around the globe. This new to strive to synchronize dates so that buyers aren’t pulled in competing group will enhance those efforts.” directions throughout the year,” he adds. And while Priest readily admits On that note, other shows are welcome to join the council. (The next that may not always be possible—FFANY and IR Show dates overlap this meeting is tentatively scheduled for FFANY week, June 6-10.) “We cast August—it’s a priority for FTSC members. Another key objective, Priest as wide a net as we could in the U.S. to make sure we invited all the says, is sharing best practices that will enhance the experience for buyers, regional and semi-national shows to the discussion,” Priest says. “By no no matter which shows they attend. “This may include new health and means are we looking to keep anyone out, and if new and exciting shows safety protocols, enhanced retailer incentives to attend a show or even emerge, we’ll welcome them into the conversation.” on-site innovations and engagement,” he says. Which begs the question: Can shows get along—and prosper? “That’s the Laura O’Brien, longtime director of TASM, says FTSC reminds her all-important question,” Priest says. “None of us are guaranteed to prosper of the days when the National Shoe Travelers Association, then based but each is committed to work hard in service of the industry. If we stick to in St. Louis, gathered with about 19 industry organizations twice a year that, we’ll have a better shot at prospering, collectively. Communication is to share ideas. “It was great,” she says, noting that if FTSC can achieve a key.” Priest adds, “There are many existential threats on the horizon that similar working camaraderie it should be helpful. “I’m always willing to are out of our control. When and how and where we gather to buy and share my experiences, dates, etc., and hopefully that will be the consensus sell shoes to each other should not be one of them.” of the others,” she says. “That’s the only way this can work. If everyone
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Q&A BY GREG
DUTTER
FULL CIRCLE
Glenn Barrett, founder and CEO of OrthoLite, is celebrating the c o m p o n e n t s c o m p a n y ’s 2 5 t h a n n i v e r s a r y b y l a u n c h i n g a g a m e - c h a n g i n g midsole material. The party is just getting started. IT DOESN’T HAPPEN often. Something comes along that transforms the entire industry. One such example is EVA foam, which revolutionized how athletic midsoles are made. The shoes became lighter with better rebound and improved comfort. The material became ubiquitous. One drawback, however, is that the widely used petroleum-based EVAs are unkind to Mother Nature. They release volatile organic compounds into the air when decomposing, which contribute to the formation of tropospheric ozone—very bad for plants and humans. What’s more, these EVAs take thousands of years to decompose and, in doing so, pollute groundwater. Layer on the fact that millions of athletic shoes are clogging landfills worldwide each year and one can’t help but think there has to be a better, cleaner way. Glenn Barrett, CEO of OrthoLite, the company that has cornered the insoles market (300-plus brand partners) over the past quarter century, believes his company has achieved it with Cirql, a midsole material that will make Mother Nature grin ear to ear. Cirql is a biodegradable monomer foam that’s free of harmful chemicals. Even better, the material is industrial compostable. This could make Cirql a game-changer. The material is not a pollutant, it can be recycled repeatedly and—through industrial composting—it breaks down into clean dirt in a mere few months. “That blew my mind,” says Barrett, remembering when he came across the initial concept about five years ago. Circularity is the Holy Grail of sustainable design. He knew OrthoLite had to find a way to commercialize this material. “It’s important not to have a big carbon footprint, and Cirql doesn’t,” Barrett explains. “But at the end of the day, the material has to go somewhere because you can only make so many park benches out of recycled bottle tops or whatever. The fact that Cirql can be true circularity—a very intended pun with the name—makes this head and shoulders over anything else. It’s a total breakthrough.” Barrett credits longtime friend and collaborator Rob Falken, a “genius inventor,” for creating the miracle material, one that uses nitrogen so it doesn’t need to be chemically foamed. Cirql meets OrthoLite’s mantra: delivering comfort in components that make footwear better, followed closely by sustainable design attributes. It’s a one-two punch, he says, that’s not easy to land. “For years, people have asked us why we don’t
make midsole foams, since we are the experts in insole foams,” Barrett says. “I’d always say, ‘Not until we see something incredibly unique.’” Cirql is. But this material didn’t appear overnight. “This isn’t something where you say, ‘Let’s buy one of those machines and make it,’” Barrett says. “It’s taken years to perfect, and it’s been a chore.” It has also required tremendous investment by OrthoLite. “We brought Rob in as our VP of Global Innovation, we’ve commercialized the product, we applied for patents, we’ve built a factory
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ALL COMFORT. NO GLUE. The Zero-X No Glue Shoe collection by Twisted X® utilizes a proprietary interlocking, double-stitching system, created without the use of the chemical adhesives, eliminating harmful toxins and high-energy production processes. TM
Copyright © 2022 Twisted X Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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Q&A in Vietnam…we’re all in,” he says. Part of this extensive process has involved making sure Cirql meets or exceeds current EVA performance standards. It does, Barrett says. “We’ve done all kinds of testing, and we have equal or better elongation, tensile, rebound, compression—all the stuff that you look for in a midsole,” he says, adding that, as with OrthoLite insoles, variations of Cirql are already in the works. “We have dozens of insole types—ones that are more breathable, have better rebound, recovery, etc.—and we’ll evolve Cirql to meet specific performance needs as well.” But Barrett doesn’t expect the industry or consumers to take OrthoLite’s word on Cirql’s attributes; numerous independent agencies back them up. “It’s important, every step of the way, that our materials are tested by outside sources,” he says, citing the rampant greenwashing of late. “We’re not going to fall into that trap. Third party organizations that specialize in environmental performance standards have been helping guide us on the quest to make this great foam.” What about the cost? “It’s not out of the ballpark,” Barrett assures, adding that once production gets up to scale, costs should come down. “In the meantime, I don’t think our brand partners have an issue. It’s competitive.” The fact is many of OrthoLite’s partners have been searching for a more sustainably designed midsole construction. Thus, it’s an investment that brands are willing to make when considering that Cirql’s near- and long-term benefits far outweigh negligible cost increases. Cirql might sound too good to be true, but Barrett has been in this business for four decades, and he believes OrthoLite is on the verge of revolutionizing the industry—again. The company has the track record, resources, talent and customer base to reinforce his confidence. And Barrett has a sixth sense for knowing when he’s on the verge of something big. What’s more, initial feedback on Cirql has been tremendous, and it has come from an array of brands. “We sell to pretty much everybody, so we’re like a fly on the wall and know what the market needs,” Barrett explains. “And Cirql addresses a need that is universal in our industry: a desire to have a better environmental conscience. It’s absolutely revolutionary.” OrthoLite continues to push the envelope on insoles innovation. Its latest effort, the ESD Shield, is the first-ever bonded electrostatic discharge protective insole. Aimed at the work and service industries, ESD Shield employs OrthoLite’s patented Fiber-Fusion technology utilizing conductive copper fibers that require no glue to bond to its X35 foam, which doesn’t degrade over time. None of the foam’s breathability, moisture-wicking and eco-friendly properties are compromised. ESD Shield is yet another example of how OrthoLite rolls: seeing opportunities and then creating solutions. That’s how it all started 25 years ago. “Nobody really focused on the hot, sweaty, smelly place you put your feet next to,” Barrett says. “We did, and our open
O F F T H E C U FF What might people be surprised to know about you? I’m a lousy golfer but a good singer. I can kill it on Mack the Knife on karaoke.
What are you reading? While I’m not big on business books, I just read The Unwritten Rules by John Beeson. It’s a great reference for group dynamics and helps me better understand the organizational dynamics of everybody within OrthoLite. What was the last show you streamed? Jack Reacher. Finally, they came up with a variation of this character that isn’t a Tom Cruise type. It’s good.
What did you want to be when you grew up? I’ll let you know when I do. Actually, it was to play outfield for the Yankees. What is your favorite hometown memory? I’m from Chappaqua, NY, and it’s of my best friends in high school. They are still my crew—we get together every year to play golf and see each other often. Any sage business advice? Punish them by selling them. Don’t get mad; just sell them.
cell foam insole material takes care of that.” Flash forward and OrthoLite is now the world’s leading supplier of open cell foam technology. It’s found in more than 550 million shoes from a Who’s Who of brands annually, not to mention the Official Insole Supplier of the New York Yankees. “I always dreamed of having my name in lights at Yankee Stadium, and now I do,” Barrett says. Barrett is living the entrepreneur’s dream: a thriving company, built from scratch, that continues to innovate and, now with Cirql, expand into new markets. So what if it took 25 years for that first extension? Barrett believes this is the perfect time to branch into midsoles. The need is apparent, the solution (Cirql) has been created and OrthoLite has proven it can deliver. “To be honest, I didn’t even think about a next component for the first 15 years of OrthoLite because it was so important for us to stay focused on the task at hand,” he says. “You’ve got to keep your mind on your knitting and make sure you do it well. If our team didn’t do that, we couldn’t have made Cirql, which I fully expect will become as ubiquitous as our insoles.” Above all, Barrett is proud that OrthoLite remains true to its mission introduced 25 years ago. “The only claim we’ve ever made is comfort,” he says. “All we want to do is make the world a more comfortable place.” How come no one else has developed a sustainable midsole foam material to this point? Good question. It goes back to one of my mottos:
What is your favorite word? It’s a swear word, so I won’t say it. What is your least favorite word? A different swear word. What are five words to describe your life? The harder you work, the luckier you get. I know that’s eight, but I wasn’t a math major, so let’s go with that. What is your motto? “Don’t spend time on or worry about what you can’t control.” It’s just an exercise in frustration and will only make your life miserable.
The harder you work, the luckier you get. I’m very happy that we worked hard and developed this material before anyone else. It takes time and a lot of investment. Our process relies on established science and production methods, done differently. Meaning, we didn’t invent ‘super critical foaming’ using nitrogen in the process. We invested doing it in this particular way, and then worked with a company that manufacturers raw materials made of biodegradable plastic. We took that material and modified it into something that we can foam, which has never done before. Nothing just comes out of the sky, but we were able to use existing technologies and improve on them to create Cirql. It’s unique enough that we’ve been issued patents, and more are coming. I’m extremely proud of our team. Again, this material is biodegradable and industrial compostable. Every bit of plastic that was ever produced in footwear is still here. That’s scary, right? So what really turned us on the most about this material is that it’s an end-of-life solution. This material goes back to dirt. How much bigger can OrthoLite become with the launch of Cirql? Way bigger, and that’s what keeps me up at night: How the heck are we going to scale that? You’ve got to be methodical, for starters. But it’s a good problem to have. Cirql addresses a genuine need. We’re not asking people to put a whistle on the laces, or anything frivolous like that. Cirql is a logical story. We’re addressing a desperate need
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TO THE
Fabulous
TWO TEN FOOTWEAR FOUNDATION 81 ST ANNUAL GALA
June 6, 2022 Pier Sixty, New York City GALA CHAIR: Skechers
CELEBRATING OUR FY22 DONORS & HONORING TWO INDUSTRY ICONS a.a. bloom memorial award
t. kenyon holly memorial award
glenn barrett
cliff sifford
founder & ceo, ortholite
vice chairman, shoe carnival
ALL I N
ONE TEAM
june, 2022
TO ATTEND THE GALA, MAKE YOUR GIFT TO TWO TEN TODAY. FOR DETAILS PLEASE CONTACT development@twoten.org FOP_APR_MAY_2022.indd 15
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Q&A in the marketplace and the world. Do you envision Cirql being used outside the shoe industry? It could. Polyurethane (PU) foams are ubiquitous. Whatever you are sitting on right now, unless it’s mesh, is likely a PU cushion. So as we develop the process, the applications are endless. That said, the footwear industry provides plenty of growth opportunities for Cirql. It’s enough of a headache. (Laughs) Any lessons learned along the way to becoming ubiquitous in insoles that might apply to midsoles? It starts with listening to our customers. We don’t develop product in a vacuum. By listening and learning what they need is a huge advantage. But we have to deliver. That’s the key, because we might have the greatest idea on earth, but it means nothing if we can’t make it and deliver it on time. Our focus is on our ability to meet demands in this supply chain. Might Cirql’s sustainability attributes be more important than its performance ones? To some degree, but Cirql has to work. Build it and they will come. Because if you don’t build it right, they ain’t coming. Sustainability is nice, but the product must perform. And Cirql does. Why has OrthoLite, since its founding, had a strong sustainability component? Because it’s not like it was expected back then. From the start, we’ve incorporated recycled tire rubber into our insoles. I remember seeing news footage of old tires that would burn for years and thought there’s got to be something that we can do with those tires. We even formed a team at the University of Massachusetts, one of the best polymer science schools in the country, to address the problem. However, I quickly discovered they lacked my, or any business person’s, sense of urgency. So
I just went ahead and included recycled tire crumbs in our insoles. It was just the right thing to do, and our sustainability efforts have progressed ever since. From day one, sustainability has been part of OrthoLite’s DNA. I’m not necessarily a tree hugger, but these decisions are just logical to me. What exactly were you envisioning when you launched OrthoLite 25 years ago? Did I envision that OrthoLite would become this enormous? No. But I’m not surprised at how successful our materials have been. Because we’ve always listened to our customers and did what was logical. For example, early on we purchased PU, which then was two materials, from a large chemical company. Then, around 2007, we realized we have smart chemists working for us and should make the material ourselves. The impetus behind that shift was fueled, in part, because we started adding more bio-based ingredients to our compounds, like substituting castor oil for petroleum. But our suppliers couldn’t keep up with us on that request. So we created the Dongguan Eco Polymer Company and built our own chemical factory. We went completely vertical. Soon after, we started blending like 80 different ingredients into our materials, which is what we do to this day. This is how we control our destiny: we know everything that goes into our materials, we can vouch for them and we can fine tune them for our customers. As such, we have proprietary compounds and we’re unique in that we own our factories. We are not just a sourcing company. That has sent a message to the industry that we were incredibly serious about what we do. OrthoLite is a chemical company that specializes in footwear components, correct? That’s it. Our materials have to perform a certain way when it’s stuck inside a shoe, basically. That’s pretty specific. So, in terms of how we got to this scale today, we’ve always been able to meet the needs of our customers, wherever they happen to be manufacturing. That used to be mostly in China, >38
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T R E N D S P OT T I N G
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BOOT CAMP A roundup of sturdy-soled boots with eco-friendly attributes that are suitable for trekking trails and toasting s’mores. 1. Native 2. Petite Jolie 3. Asportuguesas 4. El Naturalista 5. Kodiak
PH OTO G RA PH Y BY T RE V E T T M CC A ND L I SS
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Sustainability Comes Full Circle
INTRODUCING THE WORLD’S FIRST COMPOSTABLE AND RECYCLABLE MIDSOLE OrthoLite Cirql is a recyclable and industrially compostable foam created as an alternative to conventional footwear plastics. Why? With an estimated 20 billion pairs of shoes produced each year, we need intentional focus on end of life if we are to achieve true circularity in footwear. Powered by plants, Cirql is the solution. Welcome to the future of sustainable footwear. Be part of the revolution at OrthoLiteCirql.com
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A N OT E T O M Y Y OU N G E R S E L F
H U S S L E & M O T I VA T E R o m m e l Ve g a , f o u n d e r a n d C E O o f Ho l o Fo o t w e a r, reflects on a career journey of one-way tickets, roadblocks, side hustles, breakthroughs and entrepreneurial success. big break is coming soon. You just have to Hussle & Motivate. In the HOLA ROMMEL, I’m writing to you from the future! It’s 2022. meantime, Fossil will teach you important manufacturing processes You just launched your own company, Holo Footwear! Can you believe that will take you a long way in the future. it?! Probably not, since I know a lot of things don’t make sense to That future begins with a call from Jesse Daniels, a category you right now. But, like the Nipsey Hussle song, you’ve got to always designer at Puma and former college classmate. He informs you Hussle & Motivate. It will eventually all come together. Over the next about an opening and that he can, at least, get your portfolio in front 20 years, you’ll experience an amazing life journey—one that kicks off of the right person. It’s a good thing you took that part-time job at with a one-way plane ticket from Miami to Detroit. that Puma outlet store—a side hustle to your Fossil gig. You brush up It’s the summer of 2002. It’s 3:45 a.m. You’re getting ready to jump your portfolio for that all-important interview. This is you’re Eminem on a Northwest Airlines flight to Detroit. (Heads-up: Northwest is moment: Lose Yourself becomes your anthem. You listen to it on repeat now called Delta Airlines). It’s the biggest decision in your life so on your trip to Boston. far. You’re racing with emotions—excited, afraid, not sure what will Congratulations! Your “one opportunity to seize everything you ever come of leaving a very traditional Latino home to pursue your design wanted” is finally captured! You start out by designing running shoes, dreams at the College for Creative Studies. This is only the second reporting to Dave Dombrow, who later time you’ve ever been on a plane! (The moves on to Under Armour and then first was when your family emigrated launches Speedland. Your entire world from Nicaragua to the U.S.) It’s the opens up. You travel to Germany, Vietnam first time you’ve ever been away from and elsewhere with a team of talented home! You don’t have any room for coworkers. And while that team will soon error. Mom and dad are sacrificing a lot break apart like NSYNC, don’t worry for you to chase your dream. The good because your foot is now in the door to this news is Jose, Andre and Alfred—your incredible industry. You’ll go on to design closet friends in high school—will be for DC Shoes, Columbia Sportswear, Keen your roommates. You’re not alone! and Merrell. You’ll relocate to the West (Spoiler alert: These guys all gone on Coast, residing in Portland, OR. No, you to successful design careers.) won’t work for that company, but you’ll Lesson one of college: Accept failure. soon launch your own outdoor lifestyle Freshmen year flies by. You meet many brand nearby. incredibly talented people, some of It’s called Holo, named after the (curwhom become prominent designers in Designers in the making: Rommel Vega (front and center) rent) Holocene epoch. It’s a brand recipe and his College for Creative Studies crew, circa mid ’00s. the automotive industry. Sophomore of sustainable design, attainable pricing year, however, is one of the most difand inclusivity. It’s a reflection of your unique career journey and all the ficult and disappointing times in your life. This is where I implore key ingredients that you’ve felt have been missing. Your path and puryou to Hussle & Motivate! Don’t let the “NO” keep you down—like pose have always been different. Lots of people tell you, “No, that can’t when you rip open that letter from Nike only to learn that you didn’t be done. You, especially, can’t do that.” (Read between the lines on that get that summer internship with Jordan Brand you so desperately last statement.) Still, you persist and persevere. Overcoming obstacles wanted. You’ll also get turned down by Reebok, Adidas and Puma. builds the thick skin you’ll need to launch Holo. It looks to be a cruel summer. All your friends will be interning at On that note, so far, so good! Holo is rapidly gaining traction. We’re cool companies. Meanwhile, you’ve been accepted for an internship now sold at Nordstrom, REI, Macy’s and many leading specialty stores. at Moen, designing faucets in North Olmstead, OH. But don’t be a We’re living the dream! drip. Take that internship. Moen will teach you to never take faucet Parting advice: Enjoy the journey, despite its unexpected downs, twists design for granted. and turns. You’ll even learn to love the thorns that prick you along this Next stop: Dallas—on another one-way ticket. Congratulations, you path. They are the scars of a survivor—someone who is always willing graduated college! Mom and dad are so proud! Be happy, even though to Hussle & Motivate. That’s your personal anthem! you’re bummed that your senior showcase failed to generate job offers from Nike, Adidas, Puma, Reebok or any footwear company, for that Always, matter. Just be happy you received an offer from Fossil to design women’s Rommel watches. It may not be the footwear job you so crave, but it’s a job. Also, go easy on yourself because—another spoiler alert—you’re going to have P.S. Buy some Bitcoin. It’s only worth one cent a piece in 2009! a very successful footwear design career. You don’t see it now, but your
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IZNA
Hand painted leather slide sandal featuring colorful dimensional flowers with adjustable top strap and inside goring for maximum comfort.
springfootwear.com | 800.962.0030 FOP_APR_MAY_2022.indd 21
/Springfootwear 4/21/22 10:57 AM
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Papillio by Birkenstock big-buckle shearling slide.
Asportuguesas mules combine natural felt uppers and a sustainably harvested cork/rubber blended outsole. 23
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Hoff joggers crafted from sustainably treated suede; work sneakers by Snibbs feature slip-resistant outsoles and uppers made of 100 percent recycled cotton and recycled plastic bottles. Opposite: Knit sneaker by Petite Jolie features J-Lastic upper made from a recycled and scented PVC blend. 25
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Munjoi carbon neutral convertible slides with a knit upper made of cotton, spandex and hemp. Opposite: Unisex hiker by Holo features 100 percent recycled knit upper, eco-friendly glue construction and recycled rubber outsole.
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Unity in Diversity sneakers feature chrome-free, organic leather and natural vegetable dyed uppers with organic cotton laces. Trail runner with 100 percent recycled laces and mesh lining, EVA foam midsole with 50 percent recycled topsheet and 30 percent recycled Vibram Ecostep rubber outsole by Merrell. 28
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Olivia Bennett by Twisted X chukkas feature ecoTWX recycled PET uppers, recycled foam footbed and rubber outsoles integrated with rice husks. Opposite: Veja sneakers with recycled water bottle mesh uppers.
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FSC-certified natural rubber clogs by Joules. Made in the U.S.A, Psudo sneakers feature waterresistant uppers made of recycled water bottles. Opposite: AVRE sneakers feature uppers made of 100 percent recycled plastic and 3D Knit-toShape design reduces waste. Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; models: Mai Karybekova/Major Model Mgmt.; Naoki/Fenton Model Mgmt.; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/ Ray Brown Pro; photo assistants: Kevin McKeown, Raymond Collette.
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Hear Her Roar!
Jannie Denney, founder and designer of Tigerbear, unleashes about her sustainable-themed start-up and why every woman needs shoes that make her feel like a bad a**. By Greg Dutter JANNIE DENNEY IS a designer, a mother, an environmentalist and a motivational speaker—and not always in that order. She has spent decades designing shoes primarily for the juniors’ market. Stops have included Blowfish Malibu, Rock & Candy, Rocket Dog, Chinese Laundry and design director of Airwalk, then a division of BBC Int’l. In between there was the launch of her own sustainable-design driven label, Tigerbear Republik (2012-2015), which she relaunched, last summer, as Tigerbear. Aesthetically speaking, Denney says Tigerbear is a “big, old ball of crazy” that spans bright colors, fun prints and unexpected twists. “It’s meant to make you smile,” she says. “It’s a labor of love that brings joy—like when you cook with love, you can taste it.” The Tigerbear menu is retro yet current, starting with sustainable materials like recycled plastic uppers and outsoles featuring recycled rubber. “Ecofriendly shoes don’t have to be drab and boring,” Denney says. “They can be fun and exuberant.” Tigerbear’s design ethos, she adds, is “eco-conscious, not ego-conscious.” Examples include Tigerbear flag foxing, rainbow gore on its slip-ons and tigers and bears hardware. “We want to keep customers guessing what we’ll have each season,” she says, noting that sustainable materials are key. “Our goal is to keep pushing the envelope and be the change we wish to see in this world where, one day, all footwear produced is mindful of our beautiful planet.” Denney believes the age of “slow fashion” has arrived. “Customers are informed and want to buy Busy, bright and bold: the Tigerbear recipe. from brands they feel good about,” she says. “Our goal is to make beautiful products that I’m proud of and also resonates with consumers.” On that note, Tigerbear’s Fall ’22 collection continues on a theme of cozy sneakers. Think squishy, soft, plush and puffy fabrics. “We’ve all been at home in our sweats for the past couple of years, but who’s ready to give up being cozy?” Denney offers. “Our sneakers feature fabrics that you find in your favorite, silky PJs. And we’ve added prints for a little glam. We’re all about platforms, satins and prints in bright, bold colors, which are unexpected for fall.” Tigerbear embraces the unconventional, but Denney is confidant in her decades of experience. She knows what her target audience wants. “I know the customer, because I am the customer,” she says. “I’m a trendy, fashion lover who wants good product at a good price. And I love shoes!” Who is the Tigerbear gal? She’s not looking to blend in with the crowd, that’s for sure. She wants quality but also fun. The rules seem to be out the window these days. If you want to wear slippers in the summer or fuzzy sandals in the fall, you can—and you should! It gives me the freedom to make what
feels right at the time, rather than fall back on old rules. It’s very exciting as customers have the power. In what ways might your Thai-Mexican-American background influence your designs? Let’s add growing up in Saudi Arabia to that crazy mix! Surrounded by exotic colors, prints and art from my mixed cultures greatly influenced my design. In addition, as an American growing up in the Middle East, I strove to feel like a “real American,” so I have this obsession for American pop culture and street fashion. When sneakers exploded onto the scene in the ’80s, I fell in love with them. That obsession, I believe, has given me a unique perspective in this industry. Art, fashion and sneakers make me feel alive, and I strive to give that feeling to my customers. Where do you look for design inspiration? As cliché as it may seem, I’m inspired by everything and anything. It can be at a playground with my daughter, or going to the beach or having a gorgeous coffee at a café. Inspiration is found within your mindset. If you allow your mind the freedom to let go, it’ll soak in the creative energy of everything around it. What is the best design advice you’ve ever received? Keep working on a design until you love it, because if you love it, someone else will too. Also, strive to be an original, because no one likes a copycat. Any designers you admire? Tom Ford for his elegance, sex appeal and bringing a new generation to Gucci in the ’90s. He was the first designer on my radar in design school. I also love Vivienne Westwood. Her ageless, unconventional design and punkish bravado is something to exemplify. And my son, Johnnie Denney, designer of Thai Cowboy. Despite launching at the beginning of Covid, he hasn’t given up on his vision to reset street fashion. At 21, he’s designing into that dream. Isn’t that a beautiful thing? What shoe must every woman have in her closet? The shoe that makes her look in the mirror and feel like the bad ass she is. Is that a five-inch stiletto or a tiger-printed sneaker? That’s not for me to say, but if you don’t have a pair of shoes in your closet that make you feel ready to conquer the world, it’s time to go shopping! What is your first shoe memory? Around 6 years old and it’s my white/red swoosh Nike Bruins. I thought I could be the fastest runner in the world with them on! It was my first experience feeling how shoes could transform thoughts of yourself. What do you love most about designing? Designing shoes that my friends and family can wear. There’s nothing more rewarding than seeing my child running around in sneakers that I designed with her in mind.
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GREEN & HEARD
Naot Expands Vegan Collection DUE TO POPULAR demand, Naot has expanded its vegan leather collection for Fall ’22 in terms of new sandal colors as well as introducing the Tamra women’s knit lace-up sneaker. The collection, which has tripled in size, features leathers made of agricultural waste, such as hemp, pineapple leaves, coconut, banana and water hyacinth. “We couldn’t keep the vegan styles we introduced last fall in stock,” reports Ayelet Lax Levy, president, Naot USA. “The results have been beyond our expectations.” She adds, “It’s brought a new consumer to Naot who is looking for something vegan and more environmentally friendly. The designs also appeal to our core Naotics.” In addition to vegan leathers, Levy notes the collection, like the entire Naot line, is produced using environmentally safe methods. “Our factories (in Israel) are located on a farm, next to a bird sanctuary,” she says. “You actually walk through a cow shed to get into one of them.” Levy adds that producing there has the company constantly looking at best practices. “Reducing waste, glues, etc… we also still produce shoes by hand, which is much less impactful on the environment.” Going forward, Levy says its Naot’s “duty” to expand its vegan category. “We have a few fun things for Spring ’23 already in the works,” she says. “It speaks to both current and new customers, which will get more people to experience the magic of Naot’s original soft cork footbed. We didn’t forget that wow factor when creating these new vegan versions.” In the meantime, the latest collection hit the catwalk recently at Tel Aviv Fashion Week to rave reviews, reports Levy. It followed the line’s debut last fall at the sustainably themed Kornit Fashion Week in Los Angeles. “We chose to debut at Kornit Naot vegan kicks at Tel Aviv because it includes models Fashion Week. of all ages, body shapes and races to reinforce that everyone is beautiful,” Levy says, adding that Naot partnered with up-and-coming clothing designers for its runway show. “We featured designers from Asia, Africa, the U.S. and Europe. Breaking the norms of how we look at beauty and fashion is part of the conversation of sustainability and environmentalism.”
continued from page 9 works, they weren’t being analyzed in a way that would provide data metrics that we could share as proof points. This information is so relevant to Twisted X’s customers, so I’ve put processes into place for more data to be shared externally. What are your goals for the rest of the year? To expand upon our sustainability initiatives and spread national awareness of its importance. One of the metrics is tracking our carbon emissions. To date, we’ve tracked emissions for Scope 1 and Scope 2, which includes our headquarters, factories worldwide, third-party distribution and shipping. This year, we’re looking to get into Scope 3, which would include further analysis of our materials and components to track emissions coming from our supply chain. Twisted X (projected to attain carbon neutral status this year) is also looking into becoming B Corp certified. I’ve also been busy planning our Love the Land national cleanup campaign held this past Earth Day. We wanted to draw attention to the waste that is littering our planet and encourage each person to do their part. We sent corporate partners and retailers cleaning supplies to help them with their individual clean-up efforts. What are your goals further out? Beginning this year, Twisted X has committed to the inclusion of at least one sustainable feature in every product that comes out of our factories. This includes Twisted X, Black Star and our license, Wrangler Footwear. Materials like ecoTWX and leatherTWX, made of recycled plastics, as well rice husks, sugarcane molasses and bamboo will be used. We’ll also expand our Zero-X collection, featuring a revolutionary stitching method that eliminates the need for glue. What are the challenges to achieving these goals? One is cost. Since sustainability is a newer field, costs are usually higher compared to traditional materials. But as more companies use sustainable materials, the cost will go down. That said, Twisted X doesn’t make decisions solely based on costs. We’re ok that it might be less costeffective if, in the long run, it furthers our initiative to do good. Our CEO (Prasad Reddy) believes in taking care of the planet because it’s the right thing to do. If the sustainable alternative to, say a footbed, has a higher cost, he won’t pass it on to retailers or consumers. It’s not often that a CEO will choose the planet over profit. Any concerns about greenwashing? Transparency is key. Twisted X isn’t concerned with being flashy. We’re focused on the data and the benefits of sustainability. To that end, we publish two sustainability reports annually featuring an in-depth analysis of all our initiatives. That transparency goes a long way in building trust with our customers and shows that our efforts are genuine. We’ve done the research and we’re happy to share it. Any added pressure as Twisted X’s first-ever Sustainability Strategist? It’s a great honor to be the first. But I don’t feel a lot of pressure because I know the company is behind me and we’re all so in tune with sustainability. Oftentimes, there can be butting of heads across teams because of the added cost and time associated with sustainability. Here, I have the full support, from the C-suite on down. Instead of push back, I get encouragement and collaboration. Is this a dream job? Yes! There’s such an entrepreneurial spirit here. I can pave a path and also collaborate. There isn’t a playbook, which is exciting. It allows me to be curious and push boundaries by always asking, “Why not?”
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TOUCHY SUBJECTS Canvas and suede add tactile appeal to court basics. 1. Tigerbear 2. Grounded 3. Rag & Co. 4. Loci
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SCENE & HEARD
Green Expectations AT TIMES, THE challenge to clean up the industry’s act can seem overwhelming and cost prohibitive, not to mention like herding feral cats. It’s not easy being green. But don’t despair. Progress is being made, assures Andy Polk, FDRA’s sustainability capo. In fact, he’s downright optimistic about the progress that’s being made and, more so, what’s to come. Polk’s optimism starts with strength in numbers. “The majority of companies are now moving forward on this effort,” he says. “There’s more collaboration, programs and solutions across the entire supply chain. Companies are finding their footing and are innovating to both reduce their environmental impacts and better optimize operations.” Here, Polk cites three trends fueling more optimism than ever about the industry reaching a more sustainable future. 1. THE SNOWBALL EFFECT Going it alone on sustainability means higher costs with lower impact, which is why collaboration is critical. Fortunately, Polk says companies are increasingly working together. Even better, they are sharing intelligence. Copying is encouraged, because it helps lower costs and contributes to a cleaner good. Polk notes that there are companies leading specific efforts to work toward this goal. Caleres, for one, created the EPM Guide (shoesustainability.com/epm), which helps companies choose sustainable materials. Many companies now use the guide. Another example: Target, Steve Madden and Fila helped launch the Shoe Waste Program (shoesustainability.com/shoewaste) focused on recycling factory waste, which has now expanded to more than a dozen companies in Asia. The program is keeping waste out of landfills while creating a meaningful ROI for factories, Polk says. End-of-life product efforts is another area of collaboration. Polk recently attended a circularity conference at MIT with 12 brands. The fact is millions of shoes end up in landfills every year, and any progress in reducing that will have a huge impact. 2. MATERIALS GREEN RUSH It’s no secret the industry needs to move on
from petroleum-based materials. The fact that 30 percent of a shoe’s carbon footprint comes from materials bears that out. The good news is suppliers are introducing plant-based and recycled materials faster than ever. “A few years back, we’d get excited to see new sustainable materials come out maybe once a month,” Polk says. “Now it feels like we see new innovations happening weekly.” OrthoLite, for example, just introduced Cirql, a midsole foam material that can be recycled or biodegrade. (See Q&A p. 12.) Polk adds that Camper just launched a line using Mirum, a 100-percent, plant-based material that looks like leather, created by Natural Fiber Welding. “We also see more from Bloom, Tencel, Evoco, Jones & Vining and others across the industry,” he adds. “In fact, FDRA’s survey showed 70 percent of companies are planning to use more of these materials in upcoming lines than in 2020.” 3. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER Increasingly, Polk says companies are developing clear sustainability goals that fit their specific objectives. Sustainability is not a one-size-fits-all process. “What we consider ‘sustainable’ for running shoes is very different than high heels, slippers or even casual shoes,” Polk explains. “They’re all constructed differently, have different materials and are for different uses.” The good news is that companies are figuring out what they can and should do. “Brands now have a much better understanding of their products and processes, and it’s allowing them to better craft efforts to ensure sustainable success,” Polk says. And while there are still knowledge gaps—which FDRA is trying to solve through digital training (shoesustainabilitytraining. com)—he says companies are not as scared to jump into the sustainability pool. For example, only 34 percent of companies in 2019 had clear sustainability goals and targets, according to an FDRA’s survey. That figure jumped to 43 percent in 2021, and Polk expects it to top 50 percent by year’s end. “There’s some real excitement now around solving issues—rather than fear—because people feel they can get their head and hands around challenges,” Polk says. “That’s a very positive sea change.”
continued from page 16 and now a lot of it has moved to Vietnam and Indonesia. So opening our factory in Vietnam was just logical. We work a year out with our customers, but we get our orders from shoe factories that can have four-week lead times. So we have to react quickly. I don’t want to have to put stuff on boats in Hong Kong and hope it gets to Indonesia on time. I want to drive a truck across the street to the shoe factory, basically. Vietnam was first, Indonesia and India we see as next. The athletic business is migrating out of China, and that’s pretty much what we chase. We have a license in Brazil right now to form a joint venture. And with regards to our recent joint venture in Spain, more and more fashion brands are making comfortable constructions. We’re servicing some great fashion brands now. You must be qualified to run the UN. Don’t get me started, because I’d love to. Being able to understand how various cultures do business is one of my biggest kicks. It’s why I so miss traveling and working with them in person. Fortunately, my team is also very good at bridging cultures. You can’ t do this stuff on your own. I have a great C-suite team—people who have international experience working with bigger companies outside of the footwear business. Our president (son, John Barrett) was previously a boutique business manager for a luxury French linen company. Our CFO (Milton Brice) worked previously at Hershey and ran their operations in China. It’s just like making insoles: you buy ingredients, mix them, find partners, etc. My point being that my team has made my job a lot easier. And while we’re a pretty big company, we stress that we’re a close family. They love working in our family-like, entrepreneurial environment. They are all shareholders. I’ll throw in, gratuitously, that we have an extraordinarily low turnover rate. We bring people together, and they stay. At this stage of your career, what is your biggest responsibility? I’d say leadership. I try to create opportunities for people and encourage them to do things that maybe they didn’t think they’d be able to do. I believe the best way to lead or motivate people is to let them do and maybe make mistakes. I want people I have to rein in. Is your son the heir apparent? It’s something we think about. He’s our president and we couldn’t have done what we’ve done over the last 10 or 15 years if we didn’t have him based in Hong Kong. It goes back to trust. John joined us when he was 28. I wanted him to work for other people first, because we can’t teach
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Q&A
SOLE MAN Glenn Barrett, an entrepreneur at heart, has launched three companies, built one behemoth, donated over $1 million to Two Ten Footwear Foundation and has loved every minute of his 40-year-plus career. GLENN BARRETT NEVER dreamed of a career spanning four decades in the shoe biz, let alone launching OrthoLite as a one-man startup that would mushroom, over the past 25 years, to 3,500 employees worldwide with factories in China, Vietnam, Spain and, soon, Brazil. The company has become the Kleenex of insoles, renowned for its comfort and performance products. OrthoLite is as much a footwear components company making insoles (and now midsoles) as it is a vertically integrated chemicals company. What’s more, it is committed to doing what historically has been a very dirty business as sustainably as possible. OrthoLite, with Barrett at the helm, has blazed a trail that benefits the entire industry and planet. Not bad for a guy who had no plans for this career path. In fact, Barrett’s first job out of college was selling paper products—a very Dunder Mifflin-esque experience, albeit in New York, not Scranton, PA. It was sheer chance when a headhunter called about a sales opportunity with a company that made shoe soles. Barrett assumed it was Vibram, a logo he remembered from his college days, when he and his ski buddies wore Dunham Continental Tyrolean boots. “I thought to myself, ‘Why the hell did I know that?’” Perhaps it was footwear fate. “I remembered that yellow Vibram label,” he says. “I was intrigued, and I went to work there. You know the rest.” For those who don’t know, Barrett worked at Vibram for about eight years. Midway through his tenure, he saw that production was transitioning to Asia. A few scouting trips opened his eyes to the innovative rubber technologies being used at athletic shoe factories there. He returned saying Vibram should manufacture there, as well. “This was the early ’80s, I was young and it wasn’t moving fast enough for me,” he says. “So I decided to do it myself.” An entrepreneur was born. Barrett launched G2, sourcing rubber soles in Taiwan, South Korea, Malaysia, the Czech Republic and Mexico. The premise was to offer the same high-quality components but less expensively,
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so that U.S. manufacturers could maintain competitiveness. Clients included Dexter, Herman’s Survivors, Sperry and Timberland. Another key ingredient to G2’s success: the trust Barrett had built with customers over the years. “There’s no substitute for trust,” he says. “Getting in the door and telling your story is one thing, but if you fail to deliver, you’re done. G2 delivered.” G2 did—until its American manufacturing base dried up. When all footwear production essentially migrated to Asia, it was time to evolve. By this time, Barrett had developed a good sense of what was missing in the marketplace. Thus, his decision to leap from outsoles to insoles. “It was a part of the shoe that people had ignored,” he says. It seemed logical, combined with the fact that Barrett had recently been introduced to an opencell, breathable polyurethane material. The chemist believed it would work well inside shoes, and Barrett agreed. “The material was phenomenal,” he says. “It just made sense to run with it and go hard.” OrthoLite was born. Barrett, a born risk taker, burst out of the gate selling his new-andimproved insoles. There was no looking back. “You can’t second-guess yourself; once you decide to do something, then do it,” he says. Besides, there was no one to doubt him since this was a one-man operation. In hindsight, that was a good thing, he says. “When you do something on your own like this, you’re so single-minded, and I think that’s how OrthoLite got off the ground,” Barrett says. “Plus, I’m an entrepreneur because I have a problem with authority. No one would really give me a job, so I had to create my own.” A quarter century into OrthoLite’s life and the company is just getting started. Cirql is the star of Act II. The future, Barrett believes, is brighter than ever. “We’re a chemical company that makes our own materials and that’s focused 100 percent on how they perform in footwear,” he says. “There’s no one else like us, and that has a lot to do with our success.” —G.D.
him everything he needs to know. And when he first joined our company, he took a big pay cut and moved to China for a year to work for our general manager (Peter Lunder). I told him to do whatever he tells you to do, and he did. Then, he moved to Hong Kong and traveled often to Indonesia and Vietnam—wherever we needed him to go. He’s built a great team. It helps that he’s fluent in Japanese, Chinese and Spanish. As a key link in the supply chain, how has OrthoLite navigated the disruptions of the last two years? It’s been challenging. But we’ve come through the pandemic really well. We’ve had limited disruptions in our production. First off, we were able to get all our employees vaccinated early on in Vietnam and Indonesia. And getting chemicals hasn’t been that big of an issue. But there have been issues with fabrics. Fortunately, since we’re based in all these different venues, we work with local suppliers for our components—just like we’re local suppliers for the shoe factories. That’s helped. So while there have absolutely been challenges—like when orders were shifted from one country to another because factories were shut down and we had to move some large finished goods inventories quickly—we’ve been able to adapt. Fortunately, the demand for shoes is through the roof. It’s not like our business just evaporated. What do you love most about this industry? This industry encourages entrepreneurship. You can take chances in shoes. We’re an open-minded industry because we’re led by so many creative people. That’s fun! Another thing I love is that shoes aren’t a fad. Everybody will always wear shoes. So, we’re fairly recession-resistant. I also love the camaraderie in this industry. That camaraderie is reflected in the Two Ten Footwear Foundation. Congratulations on being named the latest A.A. Bloom Memorial Award recipient. What does that recognition mean to you? The shoe business has been very good to me, and Two Ten allows me to give to a philanthropic organization that serves the great sphere of people that I work with. It’s such a unique and wonderful organization. What started out about 80 years ago because a bunch of salesmen in Boston passed a hat to help fellow workers in need…that’s pretty much how Two Ten works to this day. Along those lines, even though everybody pretty much in the world wears shoes, this is a relatively small industry. If you establish trust in this business, people will take a chance on you and let you prove yourself. I’m fortunate to have been given that chance. Giving back is the easy part. What do you love most about your job? I love that OrthoLite has carved out this niche where we add value to the end product. It’s something I believe we understand and do very well. Beyond that, I absolutely love the people I work with. I love the way we challenge each other, and I can’t wait to see everyone in person again. We need to see each other. •
4/22/22 12:54 PM
L A S T S HO T
Fathers Know Best
Green Dads
Eco-friendly materials elevate Normcore kicks to hip, modern style statements.
Clarks
Geox
Holo
P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I SS
Hoff
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Featur ing Aetr ex or thotic suppor t and me mor y foam cushioning for supe r ior comfor t
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