Footwear Plus | January 2022

JANUARY 2022 VOL 32 • ISSUE 1 • $10

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JANUARY 2022 Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director

F E AT U R E S 10 Oh, Canada!

Jacques Golbert, CEO of Pajar Canada, on how the thirdgeneration, family-owned company is plowing straight ahead with a plethora of new projects.

By Greg Dutter 26 Recovery Mission Birkenstock is heading feet first into the run specialty channel, and setting the pace is industry veteran Jim Van Dine.

By Greg Dutter 28 Essential Viewing Every man’s wardrobe should feature an array of go-to boots for work, play, a night on the town and roasting s’mores around the campfire.

By Ann Loynd Burton 32 Cool for Cozy Boots with faux fur trims and linings provide a blanket of security in unsettled times.

By Ann Loynd Burton

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Emily Beckman Associate Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Ann Loynd Burton Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Tim Regas Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Noelle Heffernan Senior Account Manager Laurie Guptil Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO

D E PA RT M E N T S PA G E

32

Wooly boot

by Azura.

4 Editor’s Note 6 This Just In: Miami Beach 8 Scene & Heard 25 A Note to My Younger Self

On cover: Twisted X moc toe winter/work style boots with faux fur lining.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss; Styling by Nancy Campbell; Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; model: Baylee Shearer/State Management; photography assistant: Tara Campbell.

44 Shoe Salon 46 Upclose Outdoor 48 Last Shot

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.

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ED ITOR ’S NOT E

Spin Zone

lemon squeeze If life gives you lemons, make lemonade.

I’m pretty sure my mom offered that old adage to me regularly when I felt things didn’t go my way, which was probably enough to open a thriving lemonade stand. And while my standard retort was, “I don’t like lemonade,” I admit the optimistic twist hits the spot. It’s short, sweet and applicable to a broad range of life’s adversities.

Take Peleton, for example. The exercise equipment company shifted into high gear to counter the fallout from a negative depiction of its brand in the new HBO Max mini-series And Just Like That, the sequel to Sex and the City. Spoiler alert: A now sixty-something Mr. Big dies of a heart attack shortly after completing his 1,000th class.

Talk about a container ship of lemons dumped on your exercise mat!

Hours after the premiere, Peleton’s stock price plummeted more than 11 percent, marking its lowest level in 19 months. Spin disciples everywhere slammed the brakes on their beloved fitness activity. The company, which has performed spectacularly since the onset of the pandemic, needed to start making lemonade—stat!

They got rolling the next day with a press release featuring a cardiologist and a member of Peleton’s Health & Wellness advisory Council attributing Mr. Big’s demise to his steady diet of cocktails, cigars and steaks. They also noted that the character had suffered a cardiac event in season six.

“These lifestyle choices and perhaps even his family history, which is often a significant factor, were the likely cause of his death,” the cardiologist stated. Then the company really cranked up its spin, airing a TV spot the next day. It starred Chris Noth, a.k.a. Mr. Big, and Peleton’s Jess King, who played his favorite instructor, Allegra, on the show. Sitting on a couch in front of a roaring fire, Mr. Big says, “To new beginnings,” to which the instructor replies, “You look great.”

Peleton’s spin was worthy of the lemonade hall of

fame…until its efforts soured a day later when Noth was accused of sexual assault by several women. Peleton spun back into spin mode, pulling its ad faster than a sprint finish.

Which brings me to a dose of lemons I recently received. Though not on the scale of Peleton, an angry letter from a subscriber left a sour taste in my mouth—at first. A retailer suggested we write a story about “how shoe stores are suffering right now” because of inventory shortages. I’m all for helpful critiques, even though we’ve been covering the pandemicinduced supply chain issues extensively. Perhaps there’s a fresh angle.

But the letter got personal, calling it an “insult” to receive a magazine featuring too many articles about brands offering new shoes when the “truth is, they don’t have any shoes.”

So all brands are liars? None of them actually have shoes for sale?

They go on record about their latest products with no intention of shipping? That seems like a stretch. Perhaps there are other factors in play here. For example, brands might be siphoning off inventory to feed their expanding DTC channel or dropping accounts for various business reasons. Still, I assure you there are many, many brands hungry to fill the vacuum. In fact, our Scene & Heard section (p. 8) profiles the upcoming IR, Outdoor Retailer and The Atlanta Shoe Market shows, where hundreds of brands (800 at Atlanta alone) will be exhibiting.

That could present multiple solutions. Maybe it’s time to do a deep dive on brand assortment and seek alternatives.

Every brand-focused article and style we feature, not to mention most of the advertisements, offers a potential solution to the “there are no shoes” dilemma. Take this month’s Q&A (p. 10) with Jacques Golbert, CEO of Pajar Canada. The company just opened a new distribution center designed to better service retailers on its expanding portfolio, the latest being Prince. Golbert is bullish about the growth prospects for Pajar and the Kendall + Kylie brands, as well. Sure, the supply chain is challenging, but the veteran exec explains why the company’s diversified sourcing base has been a huge advantage to delivering (mostly) on time.

Perhaps there’s a potential fit with Pajar Canada?

The same goes for this month’s story about Holo (p. 46), a new outdoor lifestyle brand with a focus on sustainability and inclusion. That could be a fit. Start-ups are eager to find retail partners, and they might be a nice addition—or a replacement. The same can be said of the 100-plus styles, spanning 40-plus brands, featured in this issue. I’m confident, after 25-plus years as editor of this magazine, that at least a few of them would be open to doing business with new retail partners. There are no guarantees, but our mission, for 32 years and running, remains steadfast: serving as a trusted go-between for wholesalers and buyers, presenting potential solutions whenever, however and as best we can.

That’s my recipe for lemonade, and I’m sticking to it! Happy New Year!

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

THIS JUST IN

Palette Pleasers A backdrop to Art Basel Miami Beach: a canvas of colorful fashion. Photography by Tim Regas

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SCENE & HEARD

IR Show to Debut in San Diego is a casual cocktail party on-site at the end of the second day. Anyone GARY HAUSS, DIRECTOR of the new IR (Innovative Retail) show in who wants to attend these events can sign up after they register for the San Diego (Feb. 1-3), comes to the table with 50-plus years in the retail show at: TheIRshow.com. shoe business and has attended his fair number of trade events. The Speaking of attendance, Hauss reports a strong response so far. As of former owner of the J. Stephens comfort chain knows his way around press time, more than 140 brands have registered to exhibit, with many a show floor, and he also believes he knows what’s been missing of late more expected to sign up in the coming weeks. As for buyer attendance, when it comes to trade shows.

Hauss reports retailers coming from 17 states so far that span specialty “We need a solid West Coast show, but my goal is to become what independents as well as Zappos, Orva’s and Tradehome Shoes, among the WSA show was in its heyday—a true national show,” Hauss says. other larger chains. Hauss credits San Diego for being a great draw. It “We’re hoping to have the return of top executives attending a show, as starts with the city recognized as many of the heads of states have having the country’s best year-round stopped going to shoe shows. And weather. Then there’s the ease of I’m happy to report that we already getting there. San Diego can be have many registered for this first reached from most any part of the IR show.” country by non-stop flights. Lastly, Over the past 30 years, Hauss is the state-of-the-art convention has been a key contributor to the center, which Hauss points out is USRA’s annual May Event. He is only a 10-minute drive from the using that event and the former airport. “There are 11,000 hotel WSA show as his working model rooms nearby, and the Gaslamp because he views a shoe show as Quarter, with its many bars and much more than line presentarestaurants, is directly across from tions and writing paper. “I want the convention center.”

IR show to become the show you Other show highlights include attend like a family reunion, where subsidized lunches for all attendees it’s more than just reps and retailand complimentary coffee and ers in attendance,” he says. “As a doughnuts the first morning. Adding retailer for over 50 years, being Sunny San Diego serves as an alluring draw for the first-ever IR show. to the fun will be surprise free goodable to build relationships that turn ies announced during the show, like beer, warm cookies and popcorn. into friendships that then turn into close friends was one of my most “There will be stations around the show floor and we’ll announce when important reasons for attending shows. And meeting with the heads of it’s available,” Hauss says. “We also plan to do an activity benefitting the state is how I built those relationships.”

Two Ten Foundation. It will help our industry’s charity organization as Hence, IR’s format that encourages plenty of networking opportuniwell as make it fun for attendees—a win-win for everyone.” ties. It kicks off the day before the show officially starts with a 4 p.m.

As for the pandemic, Hauss assures all state and local safety protocols retailer panel about how to navigate one’s business in the pandemic and will be followed. “Obviously, safety is our top priority, and we do have advice on how to move forward. The panel will be held in a meeting plans in place and we’ll reevaluate as we get closer,” he says. room in the San Diego Convention Center. “Retailers generally come in Hauss is well-aware that launching a new show is not easy. Trying to the day before and once vendors are done setting up their booths and do so amid a pandemic—at a time the industry in great upheaval—only or finished with sales meeting, they can swing by, have a beer and listen makes it more challenging. But he’s undeterred, believing firmly in the to our panel,” Hauss says. “It’ll only be about an hour, so everyone will show’s overriding mission to bring the entire industry together again. still have time to go to dinner.”

IR’s early strong response is reaffirming that belief. “I’m excited, because Next up is the opening night “Conversations Over Cocktails” event at we already have hundreds of wholesalers and buyers registered,” Hauss the convention center (5-6:30 p.m.), where Hauss will interview David says, noting that the word of mouth on the show has been amazing.

Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas. “It’ll be a candid conversation “Of course, I want more, but several key heads of state have said that so people get to know David for more than just a CEO,” Hauss says. this amount for a first show, in a new destination, is already a big win.”

“We’ll have some real fun…while having some drinks.” Also planned

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SCENE & HEARD

The Atlanta Shoe Market Goes Big

OR Snow Show Heats Up OUTDOOR RETAILER RETURNED to an in-person format last summer, proving, for starters, that the industry could do so safely. Marisa Nicholson, show director, says it also reaffirmed the overwhelming preference to meet in person. “Nothing replaces the value of in-person meetings, and that was evident,” she says. “You could feel the energy.”

On the heels of that success is OR’s Snow Show (Jan. 26-28) in Denver, CO. Exhibitor attendance is up over the previous show, as is the expected buyer attendance. Of course, pandemic and supply chain issues remain a factor. “Businesses are faced with making tough decisions that are impacting their ability to attend,” Nicholson says. “For those able to be together in Denver, the show will offer a valuable opportunity to reconnect, to learn, to discover what’s new and to build relationships.”

To that end, Snow Show will feature all outdoor, footwear, winter sports and sourcing brands together on the Upper Level of the Colorado Convention Center. “That includes a really strong lineup of footwear exhibitors, including Merrell, Bass Outdoor, Baffin, Danner, Dansko, Born, Kamik, Minnetonka and more,” Nicholson says.

Show highlights include Venture Out, a dedicated area for modern outdoor, which will house over 30 exhibitors. In addition, the Fresh zone of first-time exhibitors will make its debut. Also new is the Resource Center, a hub offering free trend information, market research and consumer data. “Experts will be available to answer questions and offer advice, giving attendees simultaneous insight to support business decisions,” Nicholson says, noting representatives from Fashion Snoops, NPD Group, Outside Looks and WGSN are scheduled to be available. Match, a program piloted last summer with select customers, will also be in place to help attendees make connections. “Attendees can make connections in advance of arriving and facilitate meetings on-site,” she says.

Snow Show will open with the Industry Breakfast, featuring a keynote on “The Art of Impossible” from bestselling author and peak performance expert Steven Kotler. Seminars on a variety of topics, including design trends, sustainability, climate action, colorways, gear innovations, advocacy efforts and retail operations are also in the offering. Winners of the fourth annual OR Innovation Awards will also be announced. “We had more than 150 submissions to this year’s awards across all categories, and we’re excited to see who wins,” Nicholson says, adding that OR’s mission as a place to discover all that’s new in outdoor, as well as a place for the industry to come together continues. “OR is an opportunity to support your business, to celebrate each other and to help make the industry stronger.”

WITH TWO SHOWS under its pandemic belt, Laura O’Brien, director of The Atlanta Shoe Market (TASM), believes she’s got the new normal safety protocols and show format down pat, as well as the trust of attendees. What’s more, the long-time show director (42 years and counting!) believes TASM’s big head start on a return to in-person shows has helped make Atlanta the industry’s must-attend destination. And with 800 brands already signed up and a floor plan 92 percent sold out months in advance of the (Feb. 19-21) edition at Cobb Galleria Centre, the numbers strongly back that up.

“Our fashion collection area is sold out and now has a huge waiting list,” O’Brien reports, noting that the upcoming event is using the larger pre-Covid floor plan. “We’ve picked up a lot of FFANY exhibitors who might have only shown there in the past, as well as a lot more international exhibitors (from Turkey, Mexico, Italy, Spain and Canada, among others) and more retailers are coming from across the country. I’m very proud that TASM is on the map as the national show.”

Consistency, reliability and affordability serve as TASM’s long-running formula for success. “It’s what I’ve always said: We’re a trade show association, so our ability to keep prices down for vendors has been a huge part of our success,” O’Brien says. Another factor contributing to TASM’s strong return is the fact that other cities, notably New York and Las Vegas, are still struggling to get back to normal. “Where else are they going to go?” O’Brien asks. “They’re coming to Atlanta, and once they do, they always come back.”

That’s where the consistency of TASM comes into play. O’Brien says attendees always know what to expect. That starts with the largest number of footwear exhibitors (by a lot) under one roof. In addition, TASM offers subsidized lunches for buyers, the NSRA educational seminar (this time entitled, “Are you Getting Left Behind in the Digital World”) and the return of the Casino Night cocktail party (held at the adjacent Cobb Energy Performing Arts Centre the first TASM boasts 800-plus brands. night)—pandemic permitting.

Along those lines, O’Brien plans to once again administer temperature checks and wrist bands before entering, while a mask mandate would be determined by government officials. “I was hoping we could get back to completely normal, but now with the Omicron variant it’s wait-and-see,” she says. “But it’s not an issue for us to enact any safety protocols. I also think that people who’ve attended our past two shows saw that we did our best to keep them safe and they now have that comfort factor.”

Getting back to normal is O’Brien’s mantra. Using the pre-pandemic floor map is a big step. Having 800-plus exhibitors registered is a huge step. NSRA requesting a larger ballroom for their seminar is another.

“They’re expecting more than 100 people,” O’Brien says, noting she’s confidant the show will be sold out. “It’s more than business as usual for TASM; it’s off the charts, actually,” she says. “Nobody would believe how ready we are several months before this show. I’m just thrilled.”

2022 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 9

Q&A

BY GREG

DUTTER

OH, CANADA!

J a c q u e s G o l b e r t , C E O o f Pa j a r C a n a d a , o n h o w t h e t h i r d generation, family-owned company is plowing straight ahead with a plethora of new projects, pandemic be damned.

WHILE MANY COMPANIES have hunkered down amid the pandemic, hoping to ride out the storm with a risk-adverse, scaled down approach to business, a few have taken the opposite path.

They’ve viewed the forced downtime, the massive disruption and the rapid onset of a new normal as a window of opportunity to enact big changes.

Pajar Canada, the 59-year-old outdoor lifestyle company, led by CEO Jacques Golbert, is one of them. Over the span of the past almost two years, the Montreal-based company’s list of new business ventures and internal investments is quite impressive. They include the openings of a new distribution center earlier last year and, this past fall, Pajar Canada’s first-ever U.S. flagship in New York’s Soho district. In addition, the company signed a license deal with Authentic Brands Group (ABG) for Prince, and will serve up an on-court collection beginning this spring and, next August, expand into off-court styles.

To be sure, the recent moves go way beyond fresh coats of paint. Pajar is investing big-time with the goal of becoming a bigger, more diverse and stronger company—one that will thrive in the decades ahead. Making this effort all the sweeter is the fact that Golbert is doing it alongside his three children: Michel, newly named President, David (Vice President) and Elise (Chief Marketing Officer). Pajar is a family affair, but one that Golbert says extends to 10 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2022

all of its approximately 120 employees. “We have a tremendous team of people, many of whom possess a great history working in this business,” he says. “And we continue to hire more people, as many have been reaching out to us of late—those wanting to work with a cool, Canadian company.” (Laughs.)

Those employees include about 60 at Pajar’s Montreal factory, which produces the

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Q&A

O FF THE C UFF brand’s heritage collections. The fact that company is still making shoes in its native country is a source of real pride for Golbert. “We’re one of the last of the Mohicans in Canada,” he says. “And while it’s a relatively small factory, we’ve been producing there since the early ’70s and our consumers love the fact that it’s made in Canada.” Still, it’s not easy to do, Golbert notes. The importation of raw materials and components is increasingly challenging and expensive. “Everything is imported from Italy and other countries now,” he laments.

Nonetheless, Golbert reports production remains “pretty steady,” and there are no plans to close the factory any time soon. One reason being: if the pandemic has taught him anything, a diversified supply chain is a huge asset.

Speaking of which, Golbert credits Pajar’s ability to navigate the pandemic well so far to just that: producing shoes in Europe, Canada and Asia.

“We’re fortunate in that between 50 and 60 percent of our production is made in Europe,” he says. “As such, we’ve been able to mostly deliver on-time— and much earlier than a lot of our competitors.”

What’s more, Golbert cites Pajar’s strong ties with its Asian factory partners as having helped the company fare well with its deliveries. “We have long-standing relationships with great suppliers, and we received a lot of our Asian orders on time,” he reports. “Maybe 20 percent came a little bit later, but we were able to work it out with our customers and didn’t end up in bad shape.”

That’s not to say Pajar’s ability to meet its production demands this past year have been problem-free. Increased costs continue to be a big problem. “The added expense to ship goods has been a challenge for everybody,” Golbert says, noting that container costs from Europe have doubled while costs from China have skyrocketed nearly fivefold. “We absorbed the costs this past fall, but we will not be able to this fall as prices have risen for raw materials and labor as well.

There will definitely be increase for Fall ’22—at least 10 percent at the retail level.”

That’s just business in a global pandemic. One has to bob and weave with the best, while absorbing any punches. The ability to counter punch is key.

On the note, Golbert believes Pajar is experienced, nimble and diversified. It’s up for the fight, nor is it letting itself get soft. Take, for example, the recent opening of its new, 150,000 square-foot distribution center near its Montreal headquarters—also a “short bike ride” from Golbert’s home. The state-of-theart facility is a huge upgrade over how Pajar goes about its daily inventory management in North America. “Before, we always used third party warehousing, and there were times over the past 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2022

it relates to our company, the pandemic gave us an extra nudge to make tremendous strides in online marketing and opening a new distribution center.

What are you reading? I subscribe to several daily newspapers from around the world, including France, Israel and America. In addition, I try and keep up with all the fashion news. There’s so much to read these days.

What was the last show you streamed? Curb Your Enthusiasm and Squid Game.

I also recently watched The Great Canadian Maple Syrup Heist. There was a theft of millions of gallons. Who would have thought that there was a problem with maple syrup?

In what way has the pandemic changed your life most? It’s caused me to travel less, for sure. On the plus side, I’ve spent more quality time with my family in Montreal. As

What might people be surprised to know about you? That I love to jam on my guitars at home with friends and family. Growing up, I wanted to be part of The Beatles. Also, that I have a massive collection of shoemaker statues. I must have at least 250 now—ones made of wood, ceramic, glass, etc.

What is your favorite hometown memory? I grew up in Montreal and its of playing pickup hockey games with friends and skiing trips with my dad.

What was the best piece of business advice you’ve ever received? It was from my dad, who always said it’s important

few years when we needed shipments made right away but it’d take up two to four weeks because of employee shortages, or the fact that we weren’t always their priority,” Golbert says. “Well, now we have our own DC, and it’s great. It’s a super facility, and our factory is also nearby.”

In addition to internal upgrades (that includes a new ERP system), a great deal of investment has been made in consumer-facing ventures—like the Prince license and the new flagship in Soho.

Golbert believes the former presents a tremendous growth opportunity, as well as rounds out Pajar’s portfolio that also includes the Kendall + Kylie license for fashion footwear. “Prince is a beautiful heritage brand that deserves to be taken care of, just like we have with Pajar,” he says, noting that the pandemic-fueled tennis boom and exploding popularity of pickleball bode well for the brand.

Then there’s the off-court potential, which Golbert

to be humble and to give a portion of our profits back to the community. Every year, we’ve contributed to meaningful charities in our country, and I think that’s been a big part of our success.

What are you most proud of?

To be able to work side by side with my children and continuing my dad’s legacy. My dad passed away a few years ago, but he was able to see us all working together and see our company continuing to evolve. I’m very proud about that.

What is your favorite word?

Heeeyoh, which is basically short for, how are you doing.

What is your least favorite word? It’s a phrase, actually.

Can’t be done.

What is your motto? Work hard and play hard.

says the association with ABG and Prince’s creative director and part owner, David Grutman, will help grow the business significantly. “We can do collabs with ABG’s other brands, like they recently did between Reebok and Prince,” he notes. “And Dave is like the King of Miami. He owns several top restaurants and nightclubs, and recently opened The Goodtime Hotel in partnership with Pharrell Williams. He’s friends with everyone in the music and art worlds. His social media influence will be incredible in helping develop this iconic brand.”

Speaking of generating good visibility, Golbert reports that the 2,700-square-foot Soho flagship is already doing plenty of that. It’s another another example of Pajar seizing an opportunity amid the pandemic, as the company scored a prime location and good lease terms. “Our flagships serve as a laboratory for us, where we test faster styles that

maybe wouldn’t be quickly received by some of our retail partners,” he says. “And with people from around the world visiting Soho, it serves as a jump-off point for our global distributors as many are considering Pajar in-store shops. This store is a great way to see our whole collection merchandised.”

Golbert believes Pajar is in a very good place overall as a new year dawns. A lot of heavy lifting has been done and the company is positioned for strong growth. What’s more, the exec believes the company has further gained the trust of its retailers and distributors worldwide. “They can see that we’ve come through this very well so far—our deliveries have been great and our qualities remain high,” Golbert says. “And our fashion is great, as always.

We’re trendsetters in our categories. We’re doing a great job, overall.”

The three Golberts: Michel, Elise and David are the third generation poised to lead Pajar Canada to new heights.

Below: The new flagship in New York’s Soho district serves, in part, as a laboratory to test faster styles.

So, new distribution center, new flagship, new Prince license…all at a time when many companies haven’t dared making such major investments. What gives?

I know, right. We’ve been very forward. But we decided it’s our time, so let’s do it. You gotta strike while you can—like the fact that we probably got a better deal on our Soho lease than we would have pre-pandemic. But I will tell you that many, many people in my company discouraged me from opening a store in Soho at this time. They kept saying it’s too risky, the pandemic is going to continue, people aren’t traveling, what happens if there’s another lockdown, etc.

And they weren’t necessarily wrong.

Not at all. But, for starters, I feel we’re working with great landlords, and if there are any pandemicrelated issues, then hopefully we’ll be able to work it out together. I also just don’t like hearing, ‘Can’t be done.’ I believe the time is right for us. And now we have a phenomenal staff that’s already experienced in luxury sales. We’re three doors down from Chanel, across the street from Ted Baker, Canada Goose, Saint John and Ray-Ban. They’re phenomenal neighbors, and it’s just a great place to showcase our brand. And this summer, we’ll put some Prince styles in there as well.

How’s business since opening the store?

Great! Everyone is loving the decision now.

(Laughs.) My team is very happy, saying it’s a fantastic idea, amazing, etc. During the recent FFANY show, we had several European distributors visit and they loved it. They said it gave them a lot of input in how they’ll market Pajar in their stores. We also had a great opening party—Anna

Tennis everyone? Pajar, in partnership with Authentic Brands Group, will debut on- and off-court collections beginning this spring of the iconic Prince brand.

2022 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 13

Q&A Sui came to visit. She loves our product. Actually, she had reached out to us a few weeks before the opening, asking if we would want to partner on a capsule collection for New York Fashion Week next month. We think it‘s a great idea, and we’ll offer the collection to select retailers for Fall ’22. It’ll be a small collection of boots featuring a special synthetic fur.

Did her visit to the store help seal the deal?

Well, it didn’t hurt. Speaking of which, we also had another iconic designer visit our grand opening: John Fluevog. He’s a fellow Canadian and a buddy, and we’re now planning a collab with him as well. He’s going to carry it in all his stores. John’s been a great Shoe Dog over the years. He loves our products, and while he’s never made a technical fashion boot collection, we can fill in this gap with him. I think it’ll be a terrific collab. The collection will mostly be produced in Canada. He’s very interested in our Canadian production. It won’t be inexpensive; probably in the $400 to $500 range.

Might working with this legendary Canadian designer be a career bucket list moment?

Absolutely! I’ve always been a big fan of his quirky designs. It’s also like the meeting of west and east coast Canadian minds. We’re good friends, and we’ve been discussing the project a lot over Zoom. Our design teams are working well together. It’s great fun to be working together. The same goes for our Prince license. We’re super-excited by the potential that partnership presents. The brand is iconic, known both for its revolutionary technologies like its oversized racket and colorful fashions. That combination of technical performance and fashion resonates well with us, as we have the same approach to Pajar. We follow the same vision.

What’s the distribution strategy for Prince?

The on-court collection will be in Tennis Warehouse and Dick’s, for sure, as well as other specialty tennis dealers. For off-court, we’re planning to sell to top independent retailers that understand the heritage sneaker business. Along those lines, we have many collabs and drops in the works. There’s a lot of exciting projects we’ll be doing. It helps that we were the distributor of Diesel footwear in Canada for 10 years when the brand was really hot. We learned a lot from how Diesel ran its business, and we know the sneaker business very well.

Might you be busier than ever these past two years in terms of all the new ventures and projects?

Perhaps. We also have the Kendall & Kylie license. It’s great for us because the family has such a strong social media influence. We send them top styles each season for them to pose in and those assets can be used by our distributors.

How it that license doing?

We’ve had it for four years, and we’re very happy so far. While it’s a completely different brand than Pajar or Prince, we’ve been able to create a modern collection that’s very strong in Russia, France, Holland, Belgium, Greece and the Middle East, among other places. There are at least 20 Kendall + Kylie stores that our distributors have opened in Greece and the Middle East. In North America, we sell a lot online and through Walmart, which is one of our biggest customers. It’s a different mindset here, whereas in Europe the brand is positioned more high-end. It’s a bit like Tommy Hilfiger, where the brand positioning is more elevated abroad than here. Lastly, the license gives us good feedback with all kinds of consumers in the dress, casual and sporty segments. We also make a lot of slippers under that brand.

Style | Support | Flexibility | Durability

Rieker Shoe Corporation | 299 Rio Drive. Orlando, FL 32810 | 1-800-960-0050 | www.rieker.us

Pajar, overall, is in a good place right now, yes?

I believe so. We’re very happy with all the recent investments that we’ve made and how it’s positioned us for growth going forward. Beyond that, I absolutely love what I do. I work with a lot of young people—a lot of my designers are my kids’ ages. It’s a fun place to work. We don’t take ourselves too seriously and we like to go out together. We’re pretty happy where we are at right now, so let’s continue on this path in good health. That’s all we’re asking for. But that’s not to say it’s easy, by any means. The business has been very challenging amid the pandemic, as there have been constant unknowns spanning retail shutdowns to port closures. There’s still lots of containers sitting in the ocean. There were also mass floods in western Canada this fall. I mean, the list goes on and on. But our team has done a great job.

They’ve been so resilient and they’re able to wear multiple hats, which has allowed us to be malleable as a company and able to make quick decisions at the most critical times. I give then an A-minus, because we’re not perfect.

Where do you envision Pajar in five years?

We’re hiring a lot of people with the opening of our new distribution center and the other initiatives we’ve talked about and have in the works. In five years, I hope to be very well established in Japan, South Korea and China, and we’re going to continue to grow in Europe as well as focus a lot of energy on our online platforms and social media. We also expect to open more branded stores through our distributors.

Any plans to open more U.S. flagships?

Well, since we opened in Soho you won’t believe how many people have been pitching us. We’ve had calls from people in London, Chicago and Boston, as well as other areas of New York, to open stores. We’re looking into it, because you never say no entirely. But we’re not a retailer. We just might want a few important stores in select areas of the U.S.

My sole

What are your main goals for this year?

Our No. 1 priority is the well-being of our staff, for sure. Secondly, we constantly want to innovate and bring fresh and exciting ideas to the table.

Also, we want to continue to grow our social media presence and online sales, which has been soaring the last two years. That said, we appreciate all of our retail partners and we continue to strengthen those partnerships through every avenue available. We don’t want to be a competitor with them, so we have a strict MAP policy and they’re alerted of any special sales or markdowns ahead of time. There are no surprises. At the same time, we feel that in order to give our brands the proper exposure they need and continue to grow, it’s imperative to engage with consumers directly and give them the full experience.

You could have retired by now and handed the business completely off to your children. What keeps you going?

I just feel very blessed, as I absolutely love what I do and always have. What I love most is being able to work with my kids. On that note, I’m thrilled to publicly announce that, after 22 years of having Michel work side by side with me, and essentially running the day-to-day business for the last five years, is our new president. I’m very proud to pass the torch to him, just like my dad did with me. I’m also pleased to be working with my other children, David and Elise, and they are going to be taking on much more responsibility as well. That’s the beauty of it all, because I know Pajar is going to be in great hands. In the meantime, I’ll remain CEO, focusing on growing our international sales and retail operations as well as continuing to lead creative development. To that end, I love traveling the world, meeting our many partners and making new friends along the way. I don’t have any plans to retire any time soon. In fact, my dad worked by my side until he was 93. We shared the same passion of working together and for creating great product. We always joked that we were born in a shoe box. •

mate.

Always waterproof. cougarshoes.com

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WINTER IS COMING Snow boots that make the outfit— a n d k e e p f e e t w a r m a n d d r y.

1. Joules 2. Wolverine 3. Cougar 4. Bearpaw 5. Keds 6. Ugg 7. Lamo 8. Canada Goose 9. Minnetonka 10. Western Chief

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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Mouthwatering hues as nuanced as your favorite varietal.

1. All Black 2. Soft Comfort 3. Caterpillar 4. Easy Street 5. Biza

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P HOTOGRAPH Y BY TR EV ETT MCC AN DL I SS

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T R E N D S P OT T I N G

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CABIN COUTURE Re tro-chic alpine hikers scale ne w heights.

1. Rieker 2. Ugg 3. Mono 4. Taos 5. Toms 6. Patrizia 7. Joules 8. Aetrex

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CONSTRUCTION CREW G e t t h e j o b s d o n e — s a f e l y a n d s t y l i s h l y.

1. Caterpillar 2. Merrell 3. Hytest 4. Twisted X 5. Keen 6. Danner

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LONDON CALLING Fr e s h s p i n s o n t h e c l a s s i c C h e l s e a b o o t s t r i k e a c h o r d .

1. Birkenstock 2. Geox 3. Blundstone 4. Twisted X 5. Allen Edmonds 6. Gabor 7. Bearpaw

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SHORT STUFF Fickle fall? The shoetie toes the line between seasonal silhouettes.

1. Naot 2. Bella Vita 3. Aetrex

2022 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

P HOTOGRAPH Y BY TR EV ETT MCC AN DL I SS

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GRUNGE HITS

It’s pretty black and white: chunky lug-soles top the charts again.

1. Blundstone 2. Enjoiya 3. Rieker 4. Gabor 5. Converse 6. OTBT 7. All Black 8. Bernardo 9. Geox

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PH OTOG RA PHY BY TR EV ETT MCC AN DL I SS

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A N OT E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F

IT’S A WONDERFUL LIFE Sam Spears, president of Ara North America, reflects on a rewarding career filled with travel, adventure, friends, family and a ton of great shoes.

your son is born. That’s when you expand your design horizons into DEAR SAM...You’ve just graduated from the University of Tulsa. athletic apparel at Starter in New Haven, CT. The owner’s son is married You’ve served as host of the school’s TV show, president of your fraternity, to Paula Abdul at the time. Mega-stars from sports and music visit the held many offices in the Student Association and worked at Dillard’s, office! What another fabulous experience. During these years you also Harold’s Fine Apparel & Footwear and the Polo Shop throughout these welcome the birth of your daughter. Life is grand. four fantastic years. And you earned a BA in Marketing. Well done!

In 1998, you say yes to a job at Ecco North America as Director of But now what?

Branding. Less than a year later, you move to the company’s Denmark Well, I’m writing to tell you about what comes next, and you won’t headquarters, where you continue in marketing. Because you have believe it! It’s a wild and wonderful life ride. And the thread that ties it experience in product development, you’re tasked with developing and together? Shoes! Quite prophetic, since you’ve been saving your tennis launching the Receptor performance collection, including the now legendshoes, even ones with holes in the soles. Those kicks are prized posary Yucatan sports sandal. (If you only had a nickel for every pair sold!) sessions. Mom disagrees, telling you to toss them whenever she comes You’re asked to overhaul the Golf division across your sneaker stash. Kudos for and then to develop Ecco’s revolutionary holding firm, because your love of shoes BIOM project that allows the foot to move pays off: You will go on to a rewarding naturally within the shoes. career in the footwear industry.

In 2001, with your kids now of school The journey starts, unexpectedly, after age, you move back to England. During moving to St. Louis for your first postthis time, you’re commuting weekly to college job with Junior Achievement, Denmark but the travel is worth it. Your which recruits local business leaders kids’ schools are like Hogwarts! They soak to teach basics skills to students. After up the fabulous education, quickly growrepeated calls to KangaROOS, the presiing smarter than their years. But you’re dent, Elliott Schwartz, finally agrees not done globetrotting. In January 2009, to meet you. While convincing him to you move to Portland, OR, to become teach a class, you rake up the courage Director of Advanced Concepts for Keen. and ask him for (any) job. You’re hired In late 2009, it’s on to Switzerland as as an Account Supervisor! Not long into Vice President Research, Product and your new gig, your marketing sketches are Where it all began: Sam Spears hard at work at KangaROOS. Marketing for MBT Footwear. In 2013, noticed and you’re asked to make some you return home to Tulsa to become footwear sketches. Before you know it, National Sales Manager for Ariat’s Lifestyle Division. Since 2016, you’ve you’re off to Busan, South Korea, to learn how to mass manufacture served as President of Ara Shoes North America, still residing in Tulsa. shoes and to design simple patterns to make shoemaking less complex.

Oh, the places you will live and the adventures you and your family will It’s an amazing education and experience. At age 22, you fall fast in love take! The amazing people you meet are the richest chapters in a truly with the shoe biz—the product, processes, travel and people. Many of wonderful life story. those early coworkers become lifelong industry friends.

A life well-lived, of course, involves learning valuable lessons along When KangaROOS is sold the following year, you move on to Pony, the way. Here’s a quick checklist: Love does conquer all. Life is what you in Rutherford, NJ, as Product Manager for cross-training, basketball put into it. And if an Italian shoemaker says, “Un piccolo problema,” and cleated footwear. Designing shoes for pro athletes is a dream job! it’s code for a REALLY HUGE PROBLEM! You even go on a working holiday to Portugal with New York Giants A few more tips: When an opportunity is presented, say YES! Never Super Bowl Champion linebacker Carl Banks. ask anyone to do something that you wouldn’t. And, most importantly, When Pony is acquired by Pentland Group in 1991, you’re asked to move you cannot do any of what you will do by yourself. The ability to make to London and named Vice President Design and Development. Another your ideas a reality depends on the input of so many talented people. amazing experience! You design athletic shoes while, on your days off, Last but not least, always remember where you come from and who visit nearly every castle in England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland. Your you really are: a kid from Tulsa, who, but for the grace of God, excellent travel companion is your future wife, who you will marry in your favorite parents and terrific older siblings, shouldn’t be this fortunate. Living city (London) in 1992. She’s a wonderful woman from your hometown of abroad, working in an industry you adore, performing jobs that are Tulsa, OK, who you met at college. Going on 30 years of marriage, you only limited by your imagination, an amazing family…it is indeed a still feel like you’re on your honeymoon. You’re a lucky man. wonderful life.

In 1995, not long after Pentland transfers you to Long Island, NY,

2022 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

Recovery Mission Birkenstock is heading feet first into the run specialty channel, and setting the pace for its Active Recovery footwear is industry veteran Jim Van Dine. By Greg Dutter

OMETIMES THE STARS align. The right man, the right brand, the right opportunity at the right time coalesce.

So looks to be the case with Jim Van Dine joining Birkenstock Americas to spearhead the iconic brand’s charge into the emerging recovery footwear market in the influential run specialty channel.

This is no small pursuit. The recovery footwear market presents a tremendous incremental growth opportunity for the 248-year-old brand.

“I believe it could almost equal what is now regarded as the comfort footwear or better footwear channel and become a significant percentage of Birkenstock USA’s business,” Van Dine says. “Ultimately, the athletic channel that includes run specialty and select sporting goods stores could amount to well over $100 million within three to five years. It’s definitely a game worth playing insofar as revenue is concerned, but the value of brand enhancement is even greater.”

Van Dine isn’t just blowing smoke. His career track record of incredible runs speaks for itself. Those include brand sales and management positions at Reebok (employee no. 14), Vans, Keen, Ugg and Hoka One One. He has experienced his share of rocket rides and, at this point in his distinguished career, has a nose for categories and brands on the launch pad. Hoka is the most recent example—a start-up brand whose meteoric rise reaffirmed the power and vitality of the run specialty channel.

“The channel provides a significant runway—you can get a brand really far along and hit significant revenues without really veering out of it,” Van Dine says. Beyond that, he is a firm believer in the beneficial role recovery plays in exercise and, more importantly, that Birkenstock’s unique product attributes (think firm footbed) aid the rejuvenation process.

26 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2022

Van Dine knows a lot about recovery. As a former elite distance runner and long-time coach of such athletes, he learned from first-hand experience.

“Realizing the importance of recovery could have aided my own training quite a bit, as well as of the people I coached,” he says. The gist: Recovery is about rest and injury prevention—not the common misconception that such products are solely for recovering from an injury. “Our approach is about recovery from working out to enable your

Jim Van Dine

body to strengthen and be better prepared for that next workout, and that also reduces the chance of injury,” Van Dine explains.

It’s Birkenstock’s firm cork footbed that Van Dine believes facilitates recovery so well. The firm support triggers foot recovery, and stimulates the kinetic change to recovery for the whole body, he says. “If you have a bad back, does the doctor recommend sleeping on a squishy mattress?” Van

Dine says. “Most would advise firm support, and we believe in that approach, too.” Another benefit, he says, is that the cork footbed conforms to the individual foot shape over time, virtually making it a customized orthotic. “Birkenstock is the original recovery product—a brand that invented the term ‘footbed’ back in the 19th century,” he adds.

Birkenstock has coined its approach to the category Active Recovery. It involves a daily routine that starts with changing out of running shoes after exercising. “The reason for doing that is to reduce the chance of over-usage because you’re slightly changing the impact points and stress areas by wearing a different shoe,” Van Dine explains. It’s the same reason people should not always run on pavement, he says. Not only does it save the body from the pounding, but an uneven surface puts the foot in a slightly different position with every strike and that reduces the chance of overuse injuries.

“Birkenstock’s Active Recovery product is equipment for your feet, because it’s not only the footwear you wear one hour a day, but the footwear you wear the other 15 to 16 waking/walking hours that contribute to your health and fitness,” Van Dine says.

WHAT’S NOT TO LOVE? Not only does Van Dine believe in the overall benefits of recovery and the specific advantages of wearing Birkenstock product to achieve them, there are other reasons retailers should be interested in the category. For starters, it’s another legitimate reason for customers to shop in their stores. “You’re doing customers a service by providing a product that will keep their feet healthier and therefore, they’ll be able to do what every runner wants to keep being able to do: running,” he says.

What’s more, recovery footwear is an entirely new category—one with many options and potential solutions. Van Dine believes it’s no different than in running, where there is no one shoe for all.

“The same way a retailer sells a motion control or a neutral cushion shoe indicates people might need

Step one of Birkenstock Active Recovery: After exercising, switch out of running shoes and into a pair of its classic cork footbed styles.

IT’S PERSONAL Great people and a legendary brand drew Jim Van Dine to Team Birkenstock.

different solutions in recovery,” he says. And while the category has been around for about a decade in the form of massage balls, rollers, compression sleeves and nutrition, footwear has only emerged onto the scene over the last couple of years. It’s just getting started. “It’s a tremendous opportunity,” Van Dine affirms. “It gives customers another reason to come into a store and buy.”

Then there’s the incremental bounce to the bottom line. And this is where the pedigree of Birkenstock really shines, according to Van Dine.

“My elevator speech to buyers is recovery is an emerging category and you aren’t stealing from any of your existing business,” he says. “It’s also a high-margin business—we’re at 52 points-plus, whereas athletic brands are significantly less.” Even better, he adds, there are no season-end markdowns with these evergreen Birkenstock styles. “We don’t eliminate the best color or style in the collection, so you don’t have to put it on a sidewalk sale,” Van Dine explains. “You don’t have to wrestle with a vendor to get swaps or return allowances because, for example, our Arizona sandal in taupe will likely be a top seller in your store has been a top seller for us for 40 years. We’re not changing it.”

WHAT’S IN STORE Birkenstock will initially focus on a tight assortment of classic cork footbed styles that in addition to the

Arizona will likely include the Boston, Mayari and Milano styles among a few others for this channel. That’s because Van Dine believes those styles work best for recovery. He envisions additional choices—different price points, materials, colors and styling down the line—when Birkenstock completes ramping up its production capacities in a few years.

In the meantime, Van Dine says there will be enough inventory set aside for the run specialty channel to allow for fill-ins, which is key. “We’re committed to fill-in inventory on this select group of products to this narrow group of retailers,” he says.

The distribution strategy is “very deliberate,” at the direction of Birkenstock Americas CEO David Kahan, says Van Dine. “It’s all about highquality distribution, it’s not driven by revenue,” he explains. “It’s about gaining the right partners.”

The brand hit its first goal of 30 to 40 of the top doors last year. The goal for 2022 is the next top 100 doors. And while the slow and focused approach is a far cry from Van Dine’s go-go days at previous brands, he says Birkenstock doesn’t need to go overboard adding doors. Cash flow is not the priority. “We can take it slow, because we know we have a great brand, great product and we’re not going anywhere,” Van Dine says.

“We can carefully pioneer into this channel and do it right.” •

THE NUMBERS ALONE would have convinced Jim Van Dine to join Birkenstock in its grand recovery footwear ambitions. That kind of growth potential was impossible to refuse.

But names were equally important in his decision to join the team.

At the top of the list is Van Dine’s wife. He relishes having another opportunity to work with Jacqueline, who serves as Birkenstock America’s Chief Merchandise Officer. “We’ve collaborated quite successfully for many years at various brands,” he says. “And while I think I’m pretty good on my own and I know she’s terrific on her own, together we’re both better.”

Equally appealing was the opportunity to work with CEO David Kahan, who Van Dine greatly admires for his brand management acumen. “With Jacqueline having worked with him for the last five years, I’ve had the unique opportunity to watch the brand grow and get an understanding of how he manages the brand,” Van Dine says. “Even if I didn’t have the inside scoop, I’d say, ‘Wow, whoever is running Birkenstock is really doing it the right way.’ David is someone I can really learn from.” Van Dine believes he can learn from the entire team at Birkenstock Americas, where the teamwork, enthusiasm, dedication and talent are exceptional, he says.

Then there’s the Birkenstock name itself. That was a huge draw for Van Dine. The 248-year-old brand is steeped in authenticity, yet is entering the run specialty channel refreshingly like a start-up. It’s all in Van Dine’s wheelhouse. In fact, there is probably no other opportunity that would have lured him out of his successful consulting gig. “Here, all the heavy lifting has been done, and Birkenstock is one of the great brands in the world of footwear with unimpeachable authenticity, quality, distribution, ethics and people,” Van Dine says. “It’s quite a unique combination.” —G.D.

2022 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 27

ESSENTIAL VIEWING Every man’s wardrobe should feature an array of go-to boots for work, play, a night on the town and roasting s’mores around the campfire.

BY A N N LOY N D B U RTO N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M C CA N D L I S S

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1. Keen chukka. 2. lace-up

by Toms. 3. Blundstone Chelsea boot. 4. Wolverine hiker. 5. fur-lined lace-up

by Birkenstock. Opposite: brogue by Allen Edmonds.

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Above: Danner snow boots. 1. chukka by Geox. 2. Minnetonka slipper boot.

3. dress lace-up by Florsheim. 4. ankle boot by Naot. 5. Reef chukka. 6. hiker

by Bearpaw. Opposite: Twisted X western boots.

Styling by Nancy Campbell; model: Aly Ndiaye/Fenton Model Mgmt.

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FOR COZY BOOTS WITH FAUX FUR TRIMS AND LININGS PROVIDE A BLANKET OF SECURITY IN UNSETTLED TIMES. PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS • STYLING BY NANCY CAMPBELL

Dearfoams shearling boots.

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Shearling-lined hikers

by Cougar. Opposite: Birkenstock suede and shearling-lined boots.

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Manitobah Mukluks furembellished moccasins.

Opposite, clockwise from top: Lamo slip-on; stitched-toe bootie by Danner; Minnetonka boot with braided detail; Keds camp boot; Aetrex waterproof snow boot; Ugg side zip boot.

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Sherpa-embellished hikers by Bernardo.

Opposite: Wolverine duck boots.

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Platform hikers by All Black. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Enjoiya duck boot; Earth embellished hiker; platform slip-on

by Bearpaw; Andre Assous pull-on boot; moc-toe lace-up by Bella Vita.

Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; model: Baylee Shearer/State Management; photography assistant: Tara Campbell.

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D E S I G N E R C H AT

TOCHUKWU MBIAMNOZIE MIGHT not be a household name in fashion just yet, but the Nigerian native is already in good company.

That’s because, like Tom Ford and the late Virgil Abloh, Mbiamnozie is also an architect. That structural background has served him well in crafting TucciPolo, a men’s label founded six years ago, and this past year’s debut of Tucci Di Lusso for men and, beginning this spring, women.

“My architectural background helps me see things from a different perspective,” Mbiamnozie says. “I create unique designs compared to other well-known brands, and I think customers can see the love and energy that goes into each pair.”

Now based in Houston, TX, Mbiamnozie describes his latest label’s aesthetic as “sophisticated, elegant, durable, comfortable and, above all, unique.” It’s like how an architect might describe a building they designed because shoes must also be structurally sound and something you can live your life in—comfortably. Along those lines, Tucci Di Lusso shoes are hand-welted with double-side stitched, double-leather soles with no plastic as well as leather insoles and linings. “Tucci Di Lusso shoes are hand-painted and hand-polished,” he says. “They’re made from the finest materials, including Italian calf skin leather sourced from the best tanneries in Europe. The sophisticated construction guarantees durability.”

But it’s not like Mbiamnozie made the transition from architect to shoe designer blindly. During junior high school he served as an apprentice in a local shoemaking shop in his native country.

“It’s where I learned how to make shoes,” he says, noting that he wore his own designs to school. It’s also where he fell in love with the art form. But it wasn’t until moving to the U.S. and earning an MBA in International Business that Mbiamnozie decided to combine his childhood passion with his professional training to do “something remarkable.”

So far, so good, Mbiamnozie reports. While it’s not easy being a start-up in an established market, he believes persistence and patience will win in the long run. In addition, he believes his unique designs, available in sizes 6-18 (and up to size 22 for custom designs), are a difference maker. “Many retailers only carry men’s dress shoes in just black or brown, whereas I offer colorful options—ones that are mixed and multi-tone,” he says. Most recently, that palette spans burnished brown, tan and camel; navy blue; two-tone gray and black; and royal blue accents. “We’ve gotten a great response to the new line so far,” Mbiamnozie reports. “Wearers can express their individuality and stand out from the crowd in my designs.

Heads turn when you’re wearing Tucci Di Lusso.”

44 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2022

Taos

G RA NN Y G O ES H I KI NG The mash-up of two classic silhouettes blazes a new trail.

Who is the Tucci Di Lusso man? He’s a fashion-conscious, classy gentleman who appreciates the finer things in life. He seeks uniqueness, comfort and quality. While he wants to get value for his money, he’s able to invest in a quality product (SRP: $560 up to $1,250 for custom designs in exotic skins) that are handcrafted by the world’s best artisans and will last for a long time.

Each pair ages gracefully with the owner.

Where do you envision Tucci Di Lusso in three years? As a successful company.

Compared to six years ago, when I launched TucciPolo as a graduate student, I have so much more hands-on experience in how to navigate the industry.

Who are designers you admire? Gucci, Ferragamo, Berluti and Santoni.

What was the best piece of design advice you’ve ever received? That creating something unique takes time and requires a lot of patience. A Toyota can be made in less time than a Rolls Royce.

What is your response to those who say dress shoes are not part of the new normal? During the initial lockdown, when people were not able to dress up and go out, it did affect business. But, as communities have begun to open back up, people have started attending events, family gatherings, church services, etc. And we’ve seen an increase in dress shoe sales.

Which shoe trend needs to die now? Silk laces aren’t need to die. I saw them at the last New York Fashion Week and they were screaming please throw me away.

What are your goals for this year? To expand Tucci Di Lusso into women’s with a collection of shoes, bags, belts and other fashion accessories beginning this spring, as well as launching a Tucci Di Lusso clothing line.

What do you love most about designing shoes? That it helps me to express and showcase my creativity. Outside of architecture, designing shoes is the best decision I’ve ever made, and I enjoy doing it. I love what I do.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

TOCHUKWU MBIAMNOZIE • TUCCI DI LUSSO

SCENE & HEARD

Adidas Pop-Up Achieves Green Circularity and Eva Joan Repair performed repairs and customizations.

GREEN IS GOOD. Last month, Adidas opened, for one day only, a Pricing was determined by item type and availability, and then given a pop-up in New York that exclusively sold custom, upcycled clothing in point value between two and 15. Examples included vintage tees, hoodies exchange for used goods. Tied to the brand’s Choose to Give Back initiaand crewnecks ranging from 2-10 points; vintage sweatpants and skirts tive and its mission to help end plastic waste, all pieces were available (3-7 points); accessories and shoes (5-10 points); and track suits and dress for purchase not in dollars, but for weight in worn goods. The concept (15 points). For each half pound of textile waste turned in, shoppers were aimed to motivate consumers to properly dispose of clothing and other credited with one point. A dollar value for any goods they no longer needed. items not redeemed at the shop was credited to Aaron Lynch, director of Sustainability & consumers via Adidas’ Creator’s Club app and Partnerships for Adidas, reports the Nolita redeemable at its Manhattan flagship. neighborhood store was a huge hit. Consumers Might this innovative pop-up pop up elsewhere? arrived with suitcases of clothing to donate.

While Lynch says there is nothing planned at the “The event went better than anyone could have moment, the success of the event is extremely imagined,” she says. “On top of collecting nearly inspiring. “The Choose to Give Back initiative 2,500 pounds of textile waste for donation to is an ever-growing program that we are excited thredUP, the organization we’ve partnered with to continue to expand, especially after this,” to create new opportunities for old clothing and she says, adding that the best takeaway of the shoes, all 74 unique upcycled Adidas garments event was seeing how passionate consumers sold out in under two hours!”

The pop-up featured one-of-a-kind, are to engage with more sustainable methods The pop-up featured a range of one-of-a-kind, vintage and upcycled collections. of fashion. “We were able to uplift the voices of vintage and upcycled collections from some of young, emerging designers who practice conscious upcycling, as well as the leading voices in sustainable fashion. They included: Theophilio, provide an opportunity for our consumers to be mindful in their shopJi Won Choi, Basketcase Gallery, Eva Joan Repair, Frankie Collective, ping experience. Through our quick sell-out and high attendance rate, Beepy Bella and Tyranny & Mutation. Shoppers were able to engage with it’s clear there’s a larger need for an experience like this one.” some of the designers, as Basketcase Gallery did on-site screen-printing

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U P C L O S E OU T D O O R

The Holo Recipe A new brand uses sustainability and inclusivity as key ingredients. young. We aren’t designing old and boring outdoor product.” In fact, one SOME BRANDS GO all in on a specific platform in the hope that singular Vega’s overriding goals is to make shoe design, engineering and creation focus will lead to a breakthrough. Like, for example, the wave of sustainable“fun” again. “Footwear is an incredible product for consumer expression. It driven brands that have flooded the market recently in their attempt to appeal doesn’t have to be boring and expensive,” he says. to a growing concern among consumers about protecting the environment. But While Holo’s designs are intended to appeal is that (worthy) one platform enough amid a to all demographics, Vega believes minorities, rising tide of similar green brands? Should in particular, will relate to its aesthetic, as well other ingredients be added to a brand’s recipe as the brand’s positioning. “We understand to entice customers to bite? the stigma that keeps people of color from Rommel Vega, creator of Holo Footwear, participating more in the outdoors,” he says. believes so. Hence the Portland, OR-based “What’s really important is that you see people outdoor lifestyle brand’s recipe that uses that look like you doing things outside.” Along sustainability and inclusivity as its key ingrethose lines, Vega says Holo will introduce a dients. Launched this past fall, the designer range of initiatives to get that image across. says Holo shoes don’t discriminate while “We have a lot of ideas on how we will connect blending sustainable materials, accessible price the disenfranchised,” he says. points and modern outdoor-inspired design.

The early response to Holo has been strong, In regards to the latter, think styles fit for a reports Vega. Having got its start as part of casual hike with friends, but also suitable for REI’s new Path Ahead Adventures program, hitting a brewery on the way home. which offers investment and mentorship “Most sustainable product is expensive opportunities to entrepreneurs of color and and doesn’t allow all consumers, especially helps connect upstart brands with REI buyers, minorities to participate,” says Vega, who the retail roster now includes Nordstrom, possesses 18 years of footwear design expeDick’s Sporting Goods, Backcountry, Macy’s rience with Merrell, Keen and Converse, and Public Lands. “The retail community among others. “We should all be able to and consumers have been really supportive participate in sustainable product when of our launch,” Vega says, noting that the making purchase decisions.” timing of the launch has been ideal as the Vega, who identifies as Latinx, believes industry and, most importantly, consumers that many minorities have been left out of the are searching for fresh concepts. What’s outdoor footwear conversation, in general. more, Vega says people have the means And, he says, it’s high time someone did to better sniff those new concepts out. something about that. “I feel that nobody “Consumers and retailers are more open gets to own the outdoors, or ‘outside,’ as we to new brands than ever before; they’re call it at Holo,” Vega says. “We feel strongly asking for beautifully designed products that we have to include everyone in the at affordable prices,” he says. “And Holo conversation.” is bringing inclusive, sustainable product That inclusive approach begins with a where currently there is none.” focus on the fundamentals of great shoemakHolo’s Maverick trail sneaker, priced at an attractive $64 SRP, is fit As for 2022, Vega says plans include the ing, which Vega says enables Holo (short for the trail—and for a few rounds at a local brewery. launch of a DTC site and Holo’s first spring/ for the current Holocene Epoch) to keep summer collection, which will include the prices down. The suggested retail prices genderless Ares ($60) and Poseidon ($80) sandals. International expansion of the three-style debut collection span $59 for the Credimus slip-on camp is also on the to do list and, perhaps further down the road, a return program style to $64 for the Maverick hiking/walking lifestyle shoe to $74 for the for worn-out shoes to be recycled into new products. Looking further out, Maverick ES, a waterproof version. Sustainability-wise, the shoes feature Vega has big dreams for Holo. “In three years, I hope we will have made a post-consumer recycled EVA and rubber, as well as recycled upper materibig impact towards the democratization of sustainability,” he says. “And we’re als where possible and minimal recycled packaging. “As footwear people, we excited about our product pipeline, especially our first running shoes for know what it takes to engineer a shoe sustainably,” Vega says, stressing that Spring/Summer ’23.” —Greg Dutter looks also matter. “We believe our design aesthetic is modern, unique and 46 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2022

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G ORP CORE Snazzy color pops for women and earth tones for guys put these outdoor types in peak condition.

1. Danner 2. Dansko 3. Ecco 4. Keen 5. Wolverine 6. Merrell 7. Florsheim 8. Topo 2022 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 47

LA ST SH OT

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The Stitch-uation 48 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2022

The reality is moc toes are trending.

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY N A N C Y C A M P B E L L

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