Footwear Plus | February 2021 by Wainscot Media

FEBRUARY 2021 VOL 31 • ISSUE 2 • $10

IN THE THICK OF IT

DOES NOT SELLING DTC MATTER? CAMO SIGHTINGS

CHUNKY SOLES AND PLATFORMS STAND TALL FOR FALL

WOLVERINE’S TIME OF OPPORTUNITY NASHVILLE STREET STYLE ROCKS!

F E B RUA RY 2 0 2 1 F E AT U R E S 8 To DTC or Not to DTC? A few brands are bucking the direct-to-consumer online sales trend—at least for now. By Greg Dutter 10 A Time of Opportunity Blake Krueger, chairman and CEO, and Brendan Hoffman, president, Wolverine Worldwide, on navigating through the pandemic to a brighter future. By Greg Dutter 16 Trend Spotting: Fall ’21 A preview of key colors, materials and silhouettes of the cool season. By Aleda Stam 24 Variety Pack Casual women’s sneakers feature mixed materials and textured patterns for that go-anywhere (with anything) style. By Aleda Stam 26 Funk in the Chunk Grooving to a retro vibe, designers pump up the sole volume for fall. By Aleda Stam

D E PA RT M E N T S

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Emily Beckman Associate Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Aleda Stam Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Momo Angela Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Laurie Guptill Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO OFFICES

4 Editor’s Note

PA G E

6 This Just In 23 A Note to My Younger Self 36 Shoe Salon

On cover: cut-out Oxford platform with lightweight EVA outsole by All Black.

This page: Gabor suede hikers with side zipper and grippy thermoplastic rubber wedge heels. Photography by Trevett McCandliss; model: Zoie/Fenton Model Management; stylist: Nancy Campbell; fashion editor: Aleda Stam.

37 Upclose: Comfort 38 Upclose: Green 40 Last Shot

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in Park Ridge, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.

2 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2021

Twisted XÂŽ is dedicated to making your business successful by being your premiere retail partner. We do not sell direct- to-consumer, we only sell directly to you, to prevent any chance of competing for business. To learn more about all the ways in which we support our retail partners, visit TwistedX.com/Partners.

ED ITOR’S NOT E

Bless Our Shoe Babies

State of the Disunion quickly (helped by a fortuitous head start) to meet the headwinds and THE PAST YEAR was divisive across the board. take advantage of the tailwinds brought on by the pandemic. Wolverine The political chasm engulfing our country intendidn’t just hunker down and wait for the once-in-a-century (we hope) sified, with one side of extremists believing it storm to blow over. The company seized the opportunities presented by marked the start of America’s second civil war. the new normal. So much so that Krueger is quite bullish on Wolverine’s A battle raged as well within our industry as prospects for growth and expansion. manufacturers and retailers, so-called partners Indeed, it’s not all doom-and-gloom. There is light in what seems like in business, continued their long-running war never-ending shade. Even in the darkest hours of the pandemic, there over who should sell to consumers. The rancor have been rays of hope. For example, millions of Americans embracing escalated to an all-time high. Conspiracy theothe benefits of hiking and running has presented solid growth opportuniries, accusations, threats, ultimatums, backstabbing, bullying…and ties for brands and retailers. There’s also the seismic shift in the home as I thought our nation’s political fight was nasty. center of work, learning and solace. The slippers category has exploded in Speaking as a longtime intermediary between brands and retailers, you popularity as a result. From indoor-outdoor should hear your (primarily off the record) slippers for the trek to the tricked-out shed selves lately. It’s not pretty. It’s definitely in the backyard to sock slippers for binge not healthy. It’s like the Montagues and watching, the category is rapidly expanding Capulets, but this is no fictitious tragedy. and presents enormous potential across all The venom flowing from both sides is all too retail channels. Work also continues to be real, one that social media only intensifies. a reliable category. It starts with meeting Our industry is acutely divided and drifting the needs of first responders and healthcare further apart. workers who risk their lives on every shift Grizzled veterans might say it’s always and extends to millions of people who work been like this: an endless cold war that flares for supermarkets, drug stores and delivery up from time to time, but with both sides services to give our country some sense of recognizing that they need each other. Of normalcy. Shoe retailers, of course, are in course, much of that history predates the that group, helping to keep these heroes online age—and, specifically, the ability on their feet. Be proud! of brands to go around retailers on DTC Many more possibilities exist, ones that sites, leaving them feeling threatened and I believe will only be maximized if brands abandoned. It’s one thing to compete against and retailers work together. Picture a postother retailers (even ones like Amazon), but vaccine landscape where consumers embrace when your competitor is your partner—a a return to in-person shopping for enjoyment partner who may even be undercutting and fashion. Talk about an opportunity you on price—that’s grounds for an ugly to welcome them back with incredible divorce. In our Special Report (p. 8), we Meet the “Shoe Babies,” just some of the many beloved soles in my daughter’s wardrobe. service and selection! Our industry will do dive into this heated debate. The question is best if we join forces to meet this pent-up not whether the DTC channel should exist. demand. United we stand, divided we always fall—an abridged version of That ship has sailed. Rather, we check in with brands who are making a the sentiment so eloquently expressed by Amanda Gorman in her poem last stand against selling DTC, as well as some that are offering a hybrid read on Inauguration Day. “We close the divide because we know, to put formula they believe works for both sides. Spoiler alert: The debate is our future first/We must first put our differences aside.” Sound wisdom far from settled. from our nation’s first-ever youth poet laureate. Many rank and file members of the industry blame the fever pitch of In the meantime, the world isn’t going barefoot any time soon. Take solthe shoe wars on the pandemic. That is certainly adding fuel to the fire. ace from the fact that millions of consumers have a long-lasting love affair Blake Krueger, chairman and CEO of Wolverine Worldwide and the subwith shoes that runs far deeper than replenishment needs. My daughter is ject of our Q&A, along with president Brendan Hoffman (p. 10), believes one example. As she packed for her first semester at college, what seemed five years of change have been compressed into the past nine months. to upset her more than being away from her parents was leaving some of Talk about stressful! The fallout has been tremendous, and he sees no her precious “Shoe Babies” behind! I would be foolish if I didn’t recognize sign that the pace of change will slow down in the near-term. At the the greater good that snub represents for our industry. same time, Krueger and Hoffman explain how the conglomerate pivoted

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

4 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2021

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THIS JUST IN

Nashville Not Bashful!

The “Music City” pumps up the volume on street style that rocks! Photography by Adrian Morales 6 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2021

S P E C I A L R E P O RT

TO D TC O R N O T T O D TC ? T h a t i s n o t t h e q u e s t i o n . S e l l i n g d i r e c t t o c o n s u m e r s i s h e r e t o s t a y, b u t n o t every brand is going that route—at least not yet. BY GREG DUTTER

BRANDS SELLING DIRECT-TO-CONSUMER (DTC) online are about as commonplace today as knockoffs at a flea market. Pretty much everybody is doing it and, depending on whom you ask, the reasons span an unapologetic right to do so to a necessary means of survival, especially amid a devastating pandemic, to some stating it actually helps drive traffic into stores—and they have the data to back that up. Still, about the only aspect regarding DTC that all sides agree on is every such sale used to be a retailer’s, and that massive loss in revenue hurts. “Independent shoe retailers are being disenfranchised,” says Mark Jubelirer, president of the 135-year-old Reyers Shoe Store in Sharon, PA. “More than ever, the vendors are throwing retailers and their loyal employees under the wholesale bus for a few dollars more.” Jubelirer believes if vendors don’t stop their “greedy” ways, there come a reckoning soon. “Looking forward just to the end of the current quarter isn’t a long-term strategy for survival, and what if the masses start to abandon you?,” he says. “What if 3D printing shoes becomes all the rage? You’ll have no chickens left to count.” Scott Home, president of Musse & Cloud and Emmshu, doesn’t sell DTC to protect his retailers. “If I sell DTC, the consumer might buy from me and not my retailers,” he affirms, adding that he agrees “100 percent” with those who view it as direct competition and nothing more. Yet the practice of brands going around retailers has become so prevalent that Dave Astobiza, co-owner of the 13-store Sole Desire chain based in Santa Rosa, CA, says if a brand isn’t doing so, he wonders “what’s wrong with them?” Not that he thinks it’s necessarily right, but he just grew weary of attending various industry conferences arguing that DTC is bad for retailers, particularly independents. Like it or not, Astobiza is resigned that online DTC is here to stay and only going to get bigger—so much so that he and his brother, Danny, launched their own wholesale brand (Biza) early last year as a way, in part, to diversify their holdings. “Saying brands can or can’t sell online is not even a talking point anymore,” Astobiza says. “But the minute a brand starts undercutting you regularly on price on their DTC site, that’s not a brand you do business with.” There are plenty of such offenders, he adds. Entering into this often hotly contested debate is a handful of brands that, of late, are stating they don’t sell DTC as a point of differentiation in their trade marketing. Does it work? Are retailers enticed by such a statement? “You’d think on the face of it, that’s a good offer,” says Gary Weiner, owner of Saxon Shoes in Richmond, VA. “It’s nice that they don’t want to compete with us at that level and I’d like to say that if I could support those brands, I’d love to.” But, Weiner adds, there’s a caveat: the brand has to have potential. The no DTC angle is not enough on its own. “It’s not a bad conversation 8 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2021

starter, but I have to be able to do business,” he says. “In the end, it’s always about the product.” Gregg Palmer, managing partner of five Brown’s Shoe Fit stores and based in Grand Junction, CO, views brands that don’t sell DTC as more “retailer friendly.” But he agrees that product trumps no DTC. “I would give that brand more interest, but it still must fit into my mix,” he says. “If it were an even choice between the one that does and one that doesn’t, that would be the deciding factor.” Palmer adds that he’s dropped a couple of “minor” brands that started selling DTC after years of not doing so, but it’s the major brands that sting much more. “We need (major brands), we help build them, and they are now expanding beyond us, yet when times get tough, they come right back to the brick-and-mortar businesses and claim how much we mean to them,” he says. JUST SAY NO…TO DTC Daniel Butler, national sales manager for Lines of Denmark (including Ilse Jacobsen and Rollie, among others), says its decision to promote that it doesn’t sell DTC is for two main reasons: to not compete with retailers for the same sale and to focus its marketing resources elsewhere. “Most of our team has a retail background, mostly at Nordstrom, and we want to focus on selling to retailers who will discover and introduce to America brands that don’t have a presence in this market,” he says. “Retail is hard enough without having to compete with the folks that are selling you.” Butler reports “true appreciation” from retailers when this point is brought into the sales pitch, but it’s not as if Lines of Demark depends on it. “It’s not what we lead with, but we’re hopeful that maybe it can be a tipping point between purchasing and actually buying,” he says. Similarly, Prasad Reddy, CEO of Twisted X, says the strategy behind advertising that it doesn’t sell DTC is part of its trusted partnership platform that, of course, starts with great product. As for the no DTC stance—one the company has held firm to since he took the helm 12 years ago—he sees no reason to change course now. “It’s that old saying, ‘You dance with the person who brought you to the dance,’” he says. “Well, retailers are the ones who’ve have made us successful (12 straight years of double-digit sales growth), so why would we ditch them now for a short-term profit?” Reddy reports Twisted X’s no DTC messaging has resonated well with quite a few retailers. “One of our largest customers recently thanked us for having been true to our word—unlike many of their other partners—and said they’d be rewarding us big-time soon,” he says, adding the company directs consumer purchase requests made on its site to partner retailers. Beyond the incentive of gaining more business, Reddy believes it’s just the right thing to do. “We’re a privately held company

and not after the short-term gains to please Wall Street,” he says. “We do what we feel is right by our retail partners.” While not promoting its no DTC sales position in trade advertising, Ayelet Lax Levy, president of Naot USA, believes its decision to steer consumer purchases on its site to retail partners is also just the right thing to do. “We’re extremely loyal to our retailers, probably to a fault,” she says. “I think that most don’t understand that we’re not taking all the sales for ourselves, but rather supporting independent retailers around the country.” But, she adds, for those who do know—starting with the retailers fulfilling those orders—they are “extremely thankful that we’re not stealing their customers, rather increasing their local customer lists.” Levy believes directing sales via drop-shipping is the best of both worlds. “This hopefully will also drive more people into their stores,” she says. While she believes brands have every right to choose how and who they sell their products to, retailers have a right to choose which brands they carry. But, she adds, united the industry stands, divided it falls. “I hope, if nothing more, this pandemic has taught us that we’re in this together,” Levy says. “That none of us can do all the work on an island alone.” SAY YES...WITH LIMITS On a different take, David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, believes brands have a “responsibility” to engage with consumers directly, and that includes DTC sales. “The big question is how and to what degree,” he says. “The magic trick is to do a meaningful DTC business and to continue to support and grow key wholesale partners. This is where real brand management comes into play.” As for retailers angry at brands who sell DTC, Kahan says they have a right to be—if the brand compromises them significantly, which mainly relates to discounting. “There are too many to name that have become online 40- to 50-percent off businesses where the wholesale metrics then makes no sense for retailers,” he says. Clockwise, from top left: Kahan believes brands should be fully Gary Weiner, Saxon Shoes; transparent, even if that includes digital Prasad Reddy, Twisted X; exclusives and products that are not availAyelet Lax Levy, Naot; Gregg Palmer, Brown’s able to wholesale, but are used as a way to Shoe Fit; and David Kahan, enhance it. “First and foremost, our retail Birkenstock. partners are the bullseye of all we do,” he says. “We have a team focused on providing the best possible service and to insure we maintain inventory to meet their needs. In addition, no one can ever go on our site and purchase at a price below our retailers’, and while we do have a spread of product that may go beyond what’s available at wholesale, by and large any significant volume style is offered to retailers but, with the reality of credit today, there’s no account who can represent everything we may carry.” Jerry Breig, COO of Lamo Footwear, holds a similar position of a delicate balance between DTC and its drop-ship program. “I think DTC is an important part of any business as it creates a relationship with the consumer,” he

says. “But we hold to MSRP prices so our brick-and-mortar accounts have a price advantage.” Breig adds that the world has changed and there’s no going back. “Many consumers are changing their shopping habits and expect to shop DTC, but by being dropship partners with many of our top retailers, that gives them a comfort level in shopping as well as a much bigger palette to shop in our endless aisles.” Brendan Hoffman, president of Wolverine Worldwide, believes its DTC channel efforts benefit its retail partners—starting with the reams of consumer data that it shares with them. “We’re creating better assets for them to use as we’re understanding directly what the customer is looking for, and that’s shaping our merchandising and line assortments going forward,” he says. Hoffman, a former top exec at Bon-Ton Stores and Lord & Taylor, adds that from his experience, whenever a flagship opened in the same mall, it lifted sales for both parties. “There are people who will shop in that store and others who’ll shop in the multi-brand store,” he says. “It didn’t matter if it was Chanel all the way down the food chain, it just enhanced overall brand recognition.” The real point of contention with DTC is when retailers are confronted by consumers who find a lower price via their smartphone making them look like the bad guy. Blake Krueger, chairman and CEO of Wolverine Worldwide, couldn’t agree more. But he says it’s up to the brands to maintain their prices and integrity, which he assures Wolverine does. “The rise of ecommerce has given a huge amount of power to consumers, which has put more of a burden on brands,” he says. “You have to manage your brand distribution and control your prices—not just for the good of the brand and your own ecommerce business but for wholesale customers as well.” Krueger adds that it a seismic shift that some brands have struggled with. “It requires great discipline and fortitude, but there is really only one right way to go,” he says. Astobiza, for one, believes DTC is just a consumer expectation today. “Amazon and the iPhone changed the world,” he says. “While vendors make more money selling direct—that’s why the argument of having them stop is just not valid—the reality is millions of consumers like to shop this way, and it’s not going to change.” He adds that online shopping just leaped frogged five years in the span of this pandemic. It’s why Biza sells DTC, but only at full price and doesn’t participate in any big sales and features a dealer locator on it site. “Consumers can buy off our site, just not cheaper than in a store,” Astobiza says. “You have to have offer it, and I think vendors are wasting opportunities if they don’t.” As a startup, Micro Scoccia, CEO of the sustainable fashion brand O2 Monde (see p. 38 for more), says selling DTC is a way to get a foot into the door. “You have to be found first,” he says. “Without a physical retail presence, startups absolutely must find other ways to reach their consumers.” But build- >39 2021 february • footwearplusmagazine.com 9

Q&A BY GREG

DUTTER

A TIME OF OPPORTUNITY

B l a k e K r u e g e r, c h a i r m a n a n d C E O , a n d B r e n d a n H o f f m a n , p r e s i d e n t , o f Wo l v e r i n e Wo r l d w i d e , o n h o w t h e c o n g l o m e r a t e i s n a v i g a t i n g t h r o u g h t h e p a n d e m i c ’s headwinds—as well as riding its tailwinds—to a brighter future. NO ONE HAS been immune to the effects of the Covid-19 pandemic. Every company has been forced to react, adapt and pivot amid the radicalized new normal being ushered in at warp speed. Startups to multi-branded conglomerates— even ones with roots dating back 138 years like Wolverine Worldwide—are charting a course through this unknown storm and onto a (hopefully soon) steadier, post-vaccine world. Companies have been making this journey with varying degrees of success along with, sadly, plenty of casualties. As for Wolverine Worldwide, an aircraft carrier of 12 brands with ports of distribution in 170 countries, CEO Blake Krueger reports, all things considered, the company is in shipshape condition. Now just how is that possible during the most tumultuous time in industry history? First, Krueger assures it hasn’t all been smooth sailing; the company has faced never-before-seen challenges and changed tack repeatedly. “We’ve had to act with real decisiveness and speed, and make hard decisions along the way,” he says. “It’s tested everybody’s ability to be flexible, adapt, acquiesce, make decisions…and if you make a bad one, course correct, because operating at a normal pace and historical timetable certainly has not worked during the last nine months.” Such proactiveness, Krueger says, has been key to weathering the storm. “One of our internal mottos during the past year was, ‘Do not waste 2020. Use it as an opportunity to get ready for 2021,’ and I think our team did that pretty well,” he adds. But Krueger cites another big advantage as to why Wolverine has come through this pandemic 10 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2021

From top: Blake Krueger and Brendan Hoffman

relatively unscathed: He believes the company has had a couple of years head start, thanks to its Wolverine Way Forward initiative, introduced in 2017. The companywide transformation plan set it on a consumer-centric course guided by two pillars,

product innovation and ecommerce. Both have dovetailed seamlessly with the way many consumers have been shopping since the pandemic hit. The latter might seem like a no-brainer because that shift was well underway, but no one foresaw the massive spike in online shopping that occurred this past year. Even so, Wolverine’s portfolio was much better prepared, thanks to its ramped-up DTC channels and established online partners. As for the rewards reaped from a focus on product innovation, Krueger admits that’s been a “happy” surprise. “We initially thought this would be a time when consumers would fall back on brands and products that they knew but, throughout the pandemic, the consumer has been doing things they’ve never done before, exploring new brands and trying out new products,” he says. “Our decision early on in the pandemic to keep the pedal to the floor on product innovation, freshness and bringing something new to market has really paid off for us.” It helps that Wolverine’s portfolio aligns well with several macro lifestyle trends that have been enhanced by the pandemic. The company stable leans heavily on the outdoor, work and comfort spaces, which parallel the current pursuits and needs of millions of consumers. “This big shift to wanting to be outdoors (hiking), running and nesting, plus the need to still work, has created some great tailwinds for a number of our brands,” Krueger affirms. “Those categories have been exceptionally strong, and studies show a very high percentage of people who started hiking or running are going to continue that activity in the future.” Recent evidence includes the third quarter’s

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Q&A double-digit revenue growth by Saucony and Chaco as well as strong gains by Merrell, Wolverine, Cat and Bates that, overall, has contributed to near a record amount of liquidity. “I’m very proud of the team, as we generated almost record amounts of cash, which is something that’s been almost unheard of in consumer softgoods this past year,” Krueger says. In addition, Wolverine’s DTC sales grew 56 percent over the prior year period and the company stated a bold goal of hitting $500 million in such sales in 2021—just over double what it achieved in 2019. Helping the company hit that target is recent hire Matt Blonder as president of Global Ecommerce. Blonder has 20 years of digital merchandising and marketing experience, most recently as Global Head of Digital for Reebok. “He’s already making a difference,” Krueger enthuses. He expresses similar excitement about the addition of Hoffman as president and CEO-in-waiting in August (most recently he was CEO of Vince Holding Corp. and prior to that he headed up Bon-Ton Stores and Lord & Taylor) and the naming of 23-year company veteran Jim Zwiers to president, Global Operations Group last month. “Brendan brings a fresh view and skillset to the business and Jim is exceptionally knowledgeable,” he says. “We like our team, and I believe we have one of the best and deepest in the industry.” Krueger credits his team of heavy hitters for helping power through the pandemic. Such proactiveness, he says, has been another key to the company’s success this past year. “We just try and stay humble and bring on people who are better than us. If we do that, then they’re going to help us with future success,” he says. Adds Hoffman, “We’ve been very focused on what needed to get done—that includes the safety and security of our people—but also recognizing there’s opportunity that comes out of this crisis and making sure we took advantage amid their acceleration as we reimagine what this will look like on the other side.” Going forward, Krueger envisions continued great transformation that shows no signs of slowing. “I think five years of consumer change has been compressed into nine months, and that’s going to continue,” he says. “Certainly, as a company, we’re not planning on any kind of return to a historical norm or the good old days. It will be a time of great continuing change—at the consumer, company, political and global levels.” Still, Krueger believes opportunity abounds—within Wolverine’s existing portfolio as well as in possible additions. The team did the work to get through 2020, and that puts them in a position for growth and potential acquisitions. “A lot of our people spent a huge chunk of time dealing with the pandemic in the day-to-day sense, but there was another group that always had its eye on 2021 and beyond,” Krueger says. “So as tough as the year has been, I’m optimistic about our future.” In fact, Krueger’s downright bullish on Wolverine’s prospects over the next five years. “It’s clear we’ ll have some $1 billion brands—Merrell, Saucony and Sperry,” he says. “Our business 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2021

OF F T HE C U F F three or four times, but it was worth watching again. BH: Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom. What are you reading? Brendan Hoffman: I just finished Time for Mercy by John Grisham. Blake Krueger: I’m actually writing a book, Rock ’n Roll for Children, about the top 10 rock albums of all time. What’s No. 1? BK: There is no ranking, but you can only list two Beatles albums and no greatest hits albums. For me, it’s Revolver and Abbey Road by the Beatles; Ram by Paul McCartney; Led Zeppelin IV by Led Zeppelin; Who’s Next by The Who; Mott by Mott the Hoople; London Calling by The Clash, American Idiot by Green Day; Back in Black by AC/DC; and …And Out Come the Wolves by Rancid. It’s definitely not a book focused on getting universal agreement. (laughs) Chapter “Number 11” includes 67 albums, like Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon, Elton John’s Yellow Brick Road, Michael Jackson’s Thriller…there are a lot of worthy number 11s. What was the last show/movie you streamed? BK: Band of Brothers. I’ve probably seen it

In what way has the pandemic changed your life? BK: Appreciating things you took for granted before, whether that’s face-to-face interactions with my kids and grandkids or the ability to meet with friends and our global distributor partners. BH: I echo that sentiment, but a silver lining is having been able to spend more time with my wife and two children than before. What might people be surprised to know about you? BK: That I missed my calling to be a punk rocker. BH: That I was a (New York) state champion swimmer when I was younger. What did you want to be when you grew up? BH: Center fielder for the New York Yankees. BK: I wanted to be an architect or an archeologist, which sounds boring after hearing center fielder for the Yankees. What was the best advice ever given to you? BK: A mentor once told me that sometimes you can have great success when you just stop doing the stupid thing, which I’ve seen play out quite

overall will be twice as big and hopefully twice as successful.” For his part, Hoffman is relishing the opportunities that await Wolverine. “Anyone of these brands on their own would have been a great opportunity, but to have them all under one roof and our eyes open to opportunities to add, I’m a kid in a candy shop.” Is this pandemic the ultimate challenge you’ve faced in your careers? BK: Well, I’m old, so I’ve seen a lot. I was around on Black Monday for the ’87 financial crash. I saw a number of countries’ currencies collapse in the late ’90s. In fact, I was in Moscow and over night

often. BH: Don’t sweat the small stuff…it’s all small stuff. What person do you most admire? BK: Given this time we’re in now, I’d say Abraham Lincoln because of the way he led us through the greatest crisis our country has ever had. BH: Barack Obama, just for what he had to endure and what he represented. What are you most proud of? BK: My four children and almost seven grandkids. BH: My two children, especially as I see them mature into young adulthood and their perseverance through this pandemic. What is inspiring you right now? BH: The hourly workers in supermarkets, drug stores, etc. who are making sure we get the necessities and have some semblance of a normal life. BK: The frontline and first responders. It reminds me of the famous picture on 9/11 of the firemen climbing the towers to help people. We’ve got tens of thousands of people doing that same sort of act every day over these last nine months.

the Ruble went from 6 to 1 to the U.S. dollar to 24 to 1! Image the panic that caused. Then there was the dotcom burst, the Great Recession…but this is probably, on a global basis, one of the toughest challenges that I’ve faced. BH: It is, and that’s with the appreciation of living through 9/11, too. This is a once-in-acentury pandemic and just the dramatic way it’s changed all our lives…I don’t think anyone would have believed it ahead of time. Is there a light at the end of this tunnel? BK: There is, and there’s one word for it: vaccine. I’ve been on a statewide committee (Michigan)

of medical experts and CEOs for nine months trying to provide guidance to companies, and it’s pretty clear to me that if we were going to go through the next six to nine months without a vaccine, it would be doubly horrible. So I would advise people that if you get the offer for a vaccine, take it. What are your goals for this year, despite all the uncertainty that remains? BK: First off, we quickly got through the survive phase in 2020, and that enabled us to focus on thriving with an eye on 2021. So we think we have lots of opportunities across our portfolio. While we know there will be challenges with consumers and retail on a global basis, we view this year as an opportunity to deliver some accelerated growth for our brands. We’re lucky to have brands in hiking, running, work and health and wellness that have real tailwinds now. That’s what we’re focused on. So you’re optimistic about 2021 for the company as a whole? BK: I feel very optimistic. I’ve always tended to be a glass is half full guy, but when I look at how the consumer is evolving and how dynamic the global marketplace will be, there are just lots of opportunities for our brands. Plus, one of the big benefits of a business like ours is we run a portfolio of 12 brands. While it makes for a very complex business model—half of our pairs are sold outside of North America in 170 countries around the world—it also takes risks out of the equation in a macro sense. We’re not dependent on any single brand, consumer trend or geographic territory to deliver for our stakeholders. That’s why, for us, it’s really a time of huge opportunity. BH: I couldn’t be more excited about the future of Wolverine and our brands. We’ve come through the pandemic well, and what Blake and our board already put into motion prior with the pivot to DTC and product innovation has only been accelerated through the pandemic. So this shift from having to worry about survival to thinking about the future…Wolverine was able to do earlier than most and given us a nice head start. So I’m super excited about what it means for Wolverine as we get through the pandemic and beyond.

Is there one particular region of the world that bodes well for growth? BK: Of course, the Asia-Pacific region is one, but the recovery from the pandemic is very varied country by country. Some are still under severe lockdown while others are doing pretty well. But if you just look at the consumer base and consumption of luxury goods, then you have to be focused on that region. A pleasant surprise for us in 2020 was our European operations. Despite the early challenges with several countries going into lockdown, we had an excellent year. We think that is going to continue. Latin America, however, has been severely challenged, not just with the pandemic but a number of countries have shifted to the left, and historically that hasn’t been good for the people or business in general. The recovery there might take a little bit longer. Will the new administration make a big difference? BK: In the short-term, not much. We have 50 states that are trying to roll out the vaccine with 50 slightly different approaches and even different approaches within states. But I think everyone is getting smarter and has the best intentions, and we’ll eventually get there. Personally, I believe the new administration is going to move to the center, and whenever that’s happened, it’s been pretty good for the country overall. For starters, it should improve trade relations with China, no? BK: There’s some overriding issues with China where trade has been the tool. Whether it’s dealing with 5G for the world or with the theft of intellectual property, those are the bigger issues some companies have with China. The trade war that has gone on, which I don’t really agree with certain aspects of, is just a means to try and deal with some bigger societal issues. But we started shifting production out of China five years ago, mainly because you can’t have that many of your eggs in one basket. I’d say it’s fallen by more than 50 percent as we’re now sourcing a lot of from Vietnam as well as Bangladesh, Indonesia, Malaysia and a few sources in the Western Hemisphere, like Turkey. It makes

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Q&A for a much more complicated supply chain that, due to the pandemic, is currently under a lot of stress. Getting that a smooth, functioning asset again has been a little bumpier than most people expected. For us, fortunately, being in multiple factory groups in multiple countries has made it a little bit easier. But I think it’s going to be a little while before the industry supply chain gets back to what I would call normal. And it’s not just the footwear industry. If you look at the fleet of ships that are currently at anchor outside of Long beach, CA, trying to get goods into the United States…it’s like a small navy. Are retailers, by and large, in need of inventory, because I hear extremes of too afraid to buy anything to some wholesalers recently reporting their best (regional) show in years. Which is it? BK: My belief is inventory overall is a little light at retail now. What’s more, I think over the last nine months the consumers’ interest in fresh product and innovation has been extremely strong, which took some in the industry by surprise. Some retailers have woken up to the fact that, ‘Boy, I do need some newness, freshness, color, innovation…that’s what my consumers are clamoring for.’ Now, to be fair, many retailers were working through the survival phase. How much cash do we have? How long will my stores, or some of them, be closed? Those are difficult questions. That said, I believe there’s some pent-up demand right now, especially for some newness and freshness. Taking into account the explosion in online shopping, what might the future be for physical stores? BK: I think stores are going to remain very important. There will be fewer overall and they’ll have to evolve, depending on the brand or the brands that they carry, but the consumer above all is expecting a seamless experience across all platforms. Whether it’s catalogs, stores, online…consumers want a seamless experience. In the meantime, I believe there are still plenty of

consumers, like me, that can’t wait to walk the mall again. BH: I think stores in the right categories will still be important. I also certainly think an appropriate number of physical stores alongside DTC enhances that relationship with the customer. At the very least, there’s an opportunity to welcome consumers back and, therefore, an opportunity to enhance that in-store experience? BH: You are seeing it now—retailers are throwing a lot up against the wall to see what sticks. Some of the specialty retailers in the athletic and the farm and fleet spaces have gained a lot of momentum with different ways to interact with their customers, be it online and pickup in-store, curbside pick-up, endless aisles, etc. I think those are the retailers that are going to continue to win. BK: Fundamentally, retailers are going to have to start serving up the dog food that the dogs want to eat. For example, we’ve got a great retail partner in DSW that’s made a dramatic shift from a large percentage of dress and dress/casual into athletic and comfort. They did that fundamentally because that’s what their customer is interested in, and probably will be to a greater degree into the future. I think you’ll see retailers trying a number of new things and number of new categories—focused always on the consumer. Is how consumers live day to day the biggest change due to the pandemic? BK: The biggest change is in consumer behavior, for sure. People going online and expecting their groceries to be delivered. Order and pickup. Consumers, right now, shy away from crowded places. There have just been a number of trends accelerated in consumer behavior that impact everything, and that is going to continue. I think the consumer responded very quickly, and maybe not always unexpectedly, but it’s going to continue. It’s a time of great change, great stress and also great opportunity. Everything is just transformed, and change is here to stay.

BH: The way we work and travel will be forever changed as well. I never would’ve imagined, for example, how productive we’ve been working remotely. While we’re desperate to get the offices fully open when it’s safe, Zoom has transformed the way we work and travel. For example, the company did a great job pivoting its global brand conference last spring from this massive, in-person event to completely digital and replicated that even better in the fall. And while we look forward welcoming our partners from around the world again, there’s no question there have been aspects that we’ve been able to accomplish digitally that we’ll enable us to be nimbler in the future. Yet you want employees to return. What’s missing in working remotely? BH: You can be productive on Zoom, but you miss the informal meetings at the water cooler and the cafeteria line. You just don’t have the same body language on Zoom. I also think it’s hard to mentor younger people if it’s all on Zoom. What’s going to happen to that next generation if it’s all remote? I remember how much I was influenced when I started 30 years ago by the people a generation older than me, and I just don’t know if you are able to accomplish that in a remote world. BK: While I don’t think we’ll ever get back to having as many people in the office as we used to, I agree with Brendan that for our industry the physical interaction in the creative areas—marketing, product development and innovation—is hard to do as efficiently and effectively on Zoom. So some functions will have to come back. My big fear—and I’ve read lots of articles and spoken with lots of people who say we never need an office again, we don’t need to be together, everything can be done on a computer pad...but I’m concerned about culture. I think when everybody is working remotely for this extended period of time it starts to chip away at your culture. What about the indsutry coming together at trade shows? BK: Probably, it’s still important, but less important than before. I believe

trade shows are good overall. I’ve never been to one where I didn’t see or learn something new. It’s like walking retail, right? Every time I’ve spent time in stores, I’ve always come back with a couple of new ideas—and once in a while some of them even good! I think trade shows are like that. But are they going to be the end-all? Or are they going to morph into something else? I think they probably will morph. Do you envision any consumer normalcy coming back this year, provided the vaccine rollout is successful? BK: I’m not sure if normal is going to exist again. I think we’re going to continue in this time of extended and accelerated change. It is what it is and, five years from now, we’ll look at whatever that new normal is. Do you envision adding to the brand portfolio? BK: We’ve had great success over the years bringing brands into the company and plugging them into our international distributor network and letting them benefit from our centralized centers of excellence. When we bought Merrell, for example, it was a $23-million business that was losing money. Today, it’s over $600 million and growing rapidly. We have a lot of liquidity right now, so we’ll probably continue to be active in the acquisitions market, certainly kicking tires and taking a look at businesses and brands. Do you feel like the management team is pretty set set for the next few years? BK: Well, when you operate 12 brands, I don’t need one great head of product, I need 12 great heads of product! The same for marketing, international leaders, etc. But one of the nice advantages we have on the people side is you can come into our company and spend your whole career here, working in different geographies, for different brands, take on new responsibilities, etc. You can advance your career without >39

T R E N D SSPPOT OTTTIINNGG

Chooka

Joules

Wonders

Thierry Rabotin

Diba

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CHELSEA DISTRICT Fr e s h s p i n s r e v u p t h e closet staple. Emmshu

Cougar

P H OTO G RA P HY BY T R E V E T T MCC A ND L I SS

Guess

Spring

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7 5 6

KICKS PICKS

Guys shift into neutral hues and classic silhouettes. 1. Sorel 2. Reef 3. Rieker 4. Twisted X 5. Testosterone 6. Staheekum 7. Joules 8. Florsheim 9. Geox

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PREP STARS

Updating the Preppy Handbook with fresh takes on the classic loafer. 1. Rieker 2. Andre Assous 3. Enjoiya 4. Thierry Rabotin 5. Musse & Cloud

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MUDDY BUDDIES Times are tough. These boots are tougher.

1. Frye 2. Wolverine 3. Western Chief 4. Durango 5. Rocky 6. Quoddy 7. Oboz

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YOU’RE GROUNDED! Minimal heels define demure elegance. 1. Matisse 2. Andre Assous 3. Gabor 4. Seychelles

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TASTEMAKERS

Yummy caramel, cognac and chocolate shades whet the appetite. 1. Lafayette 148 2. Alegria 3. Papillio 4. All Black 5. BC 6. Ron White 7. Frye

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A N OT E T O M Y Y OU N G E R S E L F

W H AT ’ S I N T H E S AU C E Ma r t y M e a d e , v i c e p r e s i d e n t o f s a l e s a n d m a r k e t i n g f o r B e a r p a w, r e v e a l s h i s personal recipe for career success.

Dear Young Marty, Put down that smartphone and listen up! You don’t know it now, but that job you landed, at age 16, working in a local sports store is the launch pad for a career in the shoe industry that you will love! A heartfelt thank you to Ed Blaesing for bringing you into the industry and showing you the ropes where you learned terms like “deadwood,” “drags,” “ducks on the pond,” “time to clean” and so many more. You will work there through high school and become the assistant manager while attending college. I’m pleased to inform you that your dream to work for Nike comes true—at Niketown Chicago. It’s the city’s No. 1 tourist attraction at the time—we move some serious shoes! After six years there, you are wooed away by Dr. Martens. You tell yourself you’d stay for five years, tops, and 17 years later you start a new chapter, working with Tom Romeo at Bearpaw in charge of sales and marketing. Now having some 30-plus years of experience in the footwear industry working for some tremendous brands, you have experienced terrific highs as well as a few lows in your career. You have seen brand strategies succeed, and you’ve witnessed failures. But as you’ve been taught by your parents, teachers, coaches, mentors, etc., you learn from your mistakes and press on. But I’m not writing you to give away any secret sauce for lifelong success, because no one should be given something so easily. Success needs to be earned and, besides, the footwear industry will be completely different when you come of age. Any inside tips will likely be of little use—just like that fax machine will soon be. What I will share with you, however, are four business strategies that will hopefully help make you more successful than I’ve been. 1: It’s ok to ask for help. You are savvy and quick, and overall possess a keen sense of business, but sometimes you’re not right and you could use a little expert advice. I know that is tough to hear. Heck, it’s tough for me to even type, but the more willing you are to reach out for guidance, the better off you will be. And while people in our industry are always busy, don’t always assume they’re too busy or that they don’t want to help. There are, in fact, great Shoe Dogs (that’s the term used for experienced industry professionals, by the way) who really like to help and guide eager pups like yourself. You will be fortunate to have

a few such mentors who help shape you to be a better businessman and person. They might not know it, but your appreciation is beyond their comprehension. So remember, just ask! 2: Take more chances. You will come up with some great ideas over the course of your career. Do not let them all go to waste. Don’t make the mistake that I’ve made by being too conservative to take that chance. Believe in yourself and go for it. Or, should I say, Just Do It. Even Michael Jordan missed sometimes when the game was on the line. But that never stopped him from trying. He believed in his abilities. You should too. And it’s ok to fail sometimes, as you’ll learn from those mistakes. Plus, it will only make you want to succeed more the next time. 3. Trust your gut. Your gut knows! While you should always do the necessary pre-game prep, I’m pleased to inform you that your gut instincts often meet up on the same page as your calculated judgements. In fact, I’d say it’s in solid agreement about 95 percent of the time! So give people’s ideas a chance and always do your homework, but remember to trust your gut. Any nagging suspicions are typically founded. 4. Have patience. You recognize early in your career that you need more patience and you work hard on trying to improve on that. But it’s not easy to do as you like to move fast when an opportunity presents itself. So I’m advising you to try even harder in this regard. Patience, as they say, is a virtue. If you think you’re not moving up in the world fast enough, it’s a needless distraction that only slows you down. Put in the necessary time and effort, and good things will eventually come your way. Remember that other old saying, “Good things come to those who wait.” Well, I’m here to tell you that is true. Remember how I said I wouldn’t give you any secret sauce for career success because it must be earned through experience and hard work? Well, that rule still stands, but here’s a little side sauce that might help you survive a very tough year (2020). When you get to December 2019 stock up on toilet paper and buy stock in Zoom! You’ll thank me later. Good luck, stay safe and remember to enjoy life’s ride! Your friend, Old Marty

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VARIETY

Gola

Seychelles

Sperry All Black

Geox

Biza

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Thierry Rabotin

PACK

Remonte

Think!

Naot

Sorel

Mixed materials and textural patterns sport that go-anywhere (with anything) style.

By Aleda Stam

Diba

Photography by Trevett McCandliss

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Suede platform sandals with adjustable ankle collar by Seychelles.

Rieker suede Chelsea boots with heeled hiker outsoles. Opposite: suede platform slingback by Emmshu.

Le Artiste leather hikers with lightweight EVA platform soles. Opposite: leather and canvas chunky sole hi-top by Gola.

Canvas platform sneakers by Converse. Opposite, from top: Chooka slip-on platform with corduroy upper; chunky ankle strap sandal by BC; Thierry Rabotin platform tennie with snake print leather upper; neoprene platform Chelsea boot by Guess; Sorel patent-trimmed haute hiker with rubber outsole.

Sheepskin platform boots by Bearpaw. Opposite: Musse & Cloud leather platform boot with side zip and rubber outsole. Fashion editor: Aleda Stam; Model: Zoie/ FentonModel Mgmt.; set design: Bruce Michael.

EDITOR’S PICKS

Enjoiya

Andre Assous

D E S I G N E R C H AT

LAFAYETTE 148, named after the Soho street address where it was founded and now home of its flagship, has remained true to its New York roots since launching in 1996. Known for its architectural sensibility, the label exudes sophisticated simplicity and confidence without trying too hard—much like its customer base of stylish, professional women. “We’re a New York brand, and our city is a constant source of inspiration for me,” says Creative Director Emily Smith. “It’s natural for us to be influenced by the effortless uptown/ downtown style. I love that mix of something fancy with something casual, something masculine against something feminine—that cool, understated simplicity of how New Yorkers dress.” Smith knows the Lafayette design aesthetic well. She joined the company in 2002 as a design assistant (she’s a graduate of the Savannah College of Art and Design) and has worked her way to creative director. Smith and her design team have honed a headto-toe aesthetic built on clean, sculptural lines and uncomplicated designs—all with a focus on proportion, scale and construction. “There’s an emphasis on ease and effortlessness, and respect for the beauty in simplicity, but with a little element of surprise to keep things from being too predictable,” Smith says. For Fall ’21 that translates to a pandemic-induced “resetting.” Smith has taken a deep dive into its design process from sourcing to finished goods that addresses the new normal. “Our collections have always been rooted in luxury materials, but now we’re finding solutions with our suppliers to ensure the most sustainable and ethical ways of sourcing—choosing organic, tracible and responsibly sourced materials,” she says, adding that comfort and versatility are also key for the new normal. “The world is forever changed, so it’s about addressing her new needs within the language of our Lafayette aesthetic.” That means a focus on soft constructions in both ready to wear and footwear, more relaxed shapes and styles, yet in beautiful materials that’s “kind to her skin and feels luxurious.” Fall’s palette draws on rich colors inspired by the four elements that balance a healthy world: fire, water, air and earth. That translates to Lafayette’s core neutrals of oatmeal, gray and copper, a.k.a. cuoio, a luggage leather that “goes back to every neutral, denim, white shirts, sweaters—everything,” Smith says. There’s also an emphasis on “always important” black as well as shades of green, burgundy and blue. “It’s about gorgeous, saturated colors that look extra luxe in materials like spazzolato leather, animal prints and suedes,” Smith says. “And the silhouettes reflect our DNA of balancing that masculine/feminine interplay in a range of proportions.” —Greg Dutter 36 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2021

Gabor

WHAT ’S UP, CR OC? The reliable reptile print resurfaces.

Who is the Lafayette 148 woman? She’s intelligent, purposeful and kind, and believes in products that reflect those values. She’s looking for clothes with integrity and designed to last. She’s strong in character and always evolving, and seeks clothing that’s not going to overshadow her, rather compliment her and keep up with her dynamic life. She believes in dressing well, even when she’s dressing down. She knows that comfort can be cozy and feel effortless, and still maintain that level of style and quality. What are your guiding design tenets for shoes? Our shoe collection is a natural extension of our ready to wear and rooted in the same pillars of flawless construction, the finest craftsmanship and luxury, European materials and an unparalleled fit. There’s also always a little element of surprise, whether that’s a hidden elastic inset in our Icon boot that makes it super comfortable or constructing our ballet flat to fold up so it packs effortlessly. Our ballet flat is done in a buttery Italian leather with a Sacchetto construction, so it has a slipper-like fit and feels incredible. Similarly, our Icon loafer is done in the most gorgeous, incredibly soft

cashmere fabric from Loro Piana that’s so cozy—I’ve been living in them! Lastly, monochromatic dressing is a big part of our collections, and our shoes allow us to extend that color from head to toe. Who are designers you admire? I’ve always been a fan of Romeo Gili for his color sense, and I love Churches, too—a great heritage brand for shoes. More recently, I was a big fan of what Phoebe was doing for Celine, the balance of that masculine and feminine mix. Is there a perfect shoe? I love flats, slim in shape with a longer toe. With ankle-cut pants, it’s so smart looking and good for 10 months out of the year. What was the best design advice you were ever given? Knowing when to stop. Knowing how to be disciplined and precise. When approaching design with a more understated aesthetic, it’s so important that every detail and proportion is very thought out. It’s about paying attention to these details but knowing when the design is done. Less is more, but less needs to be done very well.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY N A N C Y C A M P B E L L

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U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Desert Oasis Veldskoen, the heritage South African brand, is making a push Stateside. HUSBAND AND WIFE entrepreneurial team Angela and Steve Watts know a good product when they see one. The owners of startup Slyde handboards (used in body surfing) received a 50 percent ownership stake from Shark Tank hosts/tycoons Mark Cuban and Ashton Kutcher in 2016 and have been doing swimmingly ever since. That being primarily a seasonal business, however, the couple was on the hunt for a business to round out the year. It turns out, Steve, a native South African, didn’t have to look too far when he came across Veldskoen shoes during a visit to his homeland in 2018. The brand has many attributes the Watts love—starting with a rich heritage, a signature shoe and a commitment to fair and ethical manufacturing practices. Veldskoen (the name in Afrikaans derives from vel for “skin,” and later assimilated with veld for “field,” and skoene for “shoes”) is based on a traditional Khoisan tribal construction that dates back 1,000 years. Dutch settlers first came across the shoes in the 17th century and, according to shoe lore, in 1941 Englishman Nathan Clark saw South African soldiers stationed in Burma wearing sandcolored chukkas that later would be adapted into Clarks’ famous Desert Boot. In the decades that followed, Veldskoen continued on its localized path. The shoes today are made in a third generation, family-owned factory in Durban that, Angela says, is focused on manufacturing as sustainably and ethically as possible. “We want our customers to feel good about the products they wear and improve the lives of those who made them,” she says. Sustainability speaking, Angela Veldskoen chukkas come in a range of says Veldskoen (SRP: $135.99 to sole/lace color combinations. $155.99) is “working tirelessly” on cutting down its carbon emissions. “We source all local materials, starting with our leather from a tannery just outside of Cape Town that uses byproducts of the food industry,” she says, adding it’s locally owned and operated. “Our soles are also made from a 100-percent recyclable rubber compound that has an extended durability.” In addition, purchases made on Veldskoen’s website are made through Shoppay that tracks the carbon emissions it takes for the shoes to get from the warehouse to the customer and then, in turn, the company protects the number of trees it takes to offset those emissions. In addition to a strong ethical foundation that appeals to many American consumers, the Watts believe Veldskoen’s shoes are in step with the casual times. “They care about travel, self-expression and social responsibility, and they become loyal customers once they discover it’s their most comfortable shoe to wear both out to dinner or for a walk around the city,” Angela says, noting the target customer is men and women ages 25 to 44. (A kids’ collection is also

available.) Americans, she adds, also seek transparency and authenticity in their brand purchases—both of which Veldskoen has in abundance. “Veldskoen’s story is undeniably authentic, we’re able to source all local materials in South Africa and help reinvigorate a shoe industry in a country where the unemployment rate is over 30 percent,” she says. Still, the Watts admit it’s been no picnic introducing a new brand in America amid a pandemic. The couple put in long hours—just like it did with Slyde—to get Veldskoen up and running only for Covid-19 to come along and have business come to a screeching halt, basically. “At the time, our growth was trending at 200 percent but completely stopped in April,” Angela says. “It was scary, but we’ve picked back up this fall, even though we’re preparing for the worst this winter. We’ll continue to take this time to tell our story and be here when business turns back to some normalcy.” In the meantime, the Watts are content to just be in business—starting for their employees. “We try to spread as much positivity and light, and are focused on creating more jobs in the U.S. and continuing to purchase shoes from our South African manufacturer to keep them in business,” Angela says. “As a business owner, it feels really good to be able to support employees during a time that’s so difficult.” —Greg Dutter

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UPCLOSE GREEN

also recaptures depigmentation of water waste; and wood from ethically managed forests. Scoccia has done his eco-friendly materials homework, which has involved reaching out to hundreds of vendors, including ones from the automobile and furniture industries. “I’m committed to creating luxury sustainable shoes in a vegan and clean way,” he says, even if it’s not always easy convincing partner factories to join in his revolutionary approach to shoemaking. “I’ve had to convince families that had done their work the same way for generations to shift to a better mentality,” Scoccia adds. That effort extends to educating and enticing consumers as well, starting with O2 Monde’s more affordable luxury pricing (SRP: $268-$398) and a focus on seasonless styling. “By making high-quality footwear at a third of standard retail, women can afford luxurious, long-term staples to elevate their everyday outfit,” he says, adding that for every pair purchased, one percent of O2 Monde’s profits are donated to 1% for the Planet to offset environmental impacts. The brand is also official supporter of the animal rights group PETA. Sustainability never looked so It as if Scoccia has been preparing for this O2 Monde stylish: uppers are made of moment since childhood. Hailing from a footwearplant-based, recycled materials. making family, his father was his first inspiration to become a shoemaker. “I spent the afternoons working close to him and other old-school craftsmen to learn as much as I could about the shoemaking process,” he says. “That led to my footwear design calling. Most importantly, it instilled in me the idea of creating something on my own one day, as my dad did.” Like any good apprentice, Scoccia first gained O2 Monde raises the bar on sustainable design. valuable experience designing for Bottega Veneta and Tory Burch over the span of two-plus decades. At Bottega Veneta, he pushed the bar to make luxury shoes of the highest quality and reflect the brand’s heritage, while at Tory Burch he learned a great deal about the U.S. market IT’S LONG BEEN sustainable shoe design’s Achilles’ heel: as good as the and trends. The combination of experience, Scoccia says, is reflected in O2 products may be for the environment, when it comes to looking good…not Monde’s contemporary luxury design aesthetic. As for the sustainability angle, so much. Until now, aims Micro Scoccia, founder of O2 Monde, an Italianthat’s a personal mission to change the industry for the better. “After working crafted brand featuring a plethora of eco-friendly materials and best practices for more than 20 years for top luxury and contemporary brands, I wanted to packaged in couture-worthy styles. come up with a disruptive footwear project, while combining the best of my Take, for example, the Celia pump (pictured above) that’s made of Pinatex experience with today’s consumer values,” he says. “I’d like to permanently pineapple leaf fibers leathers and PLA, a bio-plastic sourced from renewable shift the luxury accessories paradigm by offering design-forward, truly susresources. On the green side of the ledger, the material requires no additional tainable, cruelty-free and exquisitely handcrafted footwear that honors the land, water, pesticides or fertilizers. It also provides pineapple famers with earth’s heritage and protects its future.” additional income and leftover biomass to be used as fertilizer. In addition, Just who might O2 Monde appeal to? Scoccia believes the target customer is the insoles are made of Freska, a vegan lining made of corn and cereal that someone similarly mindful about whatever they buy. “They are self-described is sustainable as well as functional as it’s extremely breathable, absorbent ‘conscious consumers,’” he says. “They’re deliberate with their purchases, and resistant for enhanced comfort. It’s also self-molding and more than 60 preferring artisan-made items and handcraftsmanship, with sustainable percent lighter than traditional leathers of equal thickness. Aesthetically, undertones whether shopping for single origin coffee, natural wine, art books, the Celia (named after American conservationist Celia Hunter) features fine candles or fashion.” One of Scoccia’s top priorities is to get in close touch with Italian craftmanship in an elegant construction. Suffice to say, this isn’t your this audience—to listen to their feedback and needs and exchange opinions. typical chunky, eco-friendly trail shoe. “I want to create a community around my brand and not be just another ‘shoe Other highlights of the women’s collection (each style is named after notable brand,’” he says, adding it’s just the beginning for O2 Monde. The five-year female environmentalists) span sleek driving mocs to sporty slip-ons and hiplan includes creating a proprietary sustainable material as well as evolving tops. Eco-friendly materials and manufacturing process include uppers made into a lifestyle brand that spans men’s shoes, handbags and ready-to-wear. of Vitigna, a 100-percent plant-based, bio-engineered material sourced from “My overall focus is on creating a brand that is sustainable at 360 degrees,” Tuscany’s wine industry leftovers; Bioveg, a vegan leather made of recycled Scoccia says. “And I hope that my work inspires other brands to take more water bottles; Thunit outsoles, a flexible and durable, water-resistant and action around sustainability.” —Greg Dutter recyclable vegan fabric made without hazardous or harmful substances that

Pretty Green

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2021

S P E C I A L R E P O RT

Q&A continued from page 15 ever having to leave, and I think that’s been a key advantage for us. We’ve got a great team of people now—one that I can’t wait to bring back together on a regularly basis.

continued from page 9 ing a DTC site is not easy, and it’s one reason why he seeks retail partners as well. “Physical retail offers two key elements that DTC lacks: exposure to a wide range of consumers and the in-person experience of the brand,” Scoccia says. “Products are displayed over a period of time, providing the opportunity for repeated interactions and experiences of the products, which is particularly important for attracting consumers who were not specifically searching for the brand or product in question.”

Blake, your personal five-year plan is? BK: Eventually Brendan is going to succeed me as CEO. We don’t have an exact timetable on that, but when the time is right, the time will be right. I will continue to be with the company in some role for a period years after that. In the meantime, Wolverine and the industry are going to go through a lot of change these next five years, and I’ll be here to help out in any way I can. My ultimate goal is to make Brendan more successful than me. Nothing would make me happier five years from now if people said, “Who was Blake? We have Brendan...”

PANDEMIC SILVER LINING? While it’s clear selling DTC online will continue—as will the debate over its pros and cons—there appears to be a growing consensus among retailers and brands that once the pandemic is brought under control, in-store shopping stands to gain, at least in the near-term. Kahan expects a surge in local, hands-on retail. “We believe the neighborhood shoe store will return, and that many consumers miss this interaction” he says. “The key is for the best independents to insure they have a strong data base of consumers and remain highly engaged with them—meaning not just selling but sharing information.” He cites some of the orthopedic-focused retailers as having fared well during the pandemic and are positioned well for after. “You can’t replace the experience of sit-and-fit footwear retail, and we’re committed to supporting this for many years,” he says. Levy of Naot also believes a post-pandemic boon to in-store shopping. “Once Covid is done, I expect there will be a strong return to Main Street,” she says. “A feeling of community that will hopefully translate into positive sales for shoe stores around the country.” •

Well, perhaps they’ll be referring to you as a successful children’s book author by then. (See side bar, p. 12) BK: That would make me very happy! It’s hard to believe, but I’ve been CEO since early 2007, and that’s twice as long as each of my two predecessors. But I’ve never had so much fun, and I still enjoy coming into the office every day, which I’ve done pretty much throughout the pandemic, by the way. I love product and I’ve always have. What I also love about this wonderful industry is the people that I’ve gotten to know through Two Ten Foundation, FDRA, the FFANY board and across the industry. The friendships that have been formed over the last 30 years as I have travelled the world are very special. BH: So far, the people I’ve met here, albeit mostly on Zoom, have been fantastic. I’m really excited about the way they’ve welcomed me and I’m enthusiastic to get to know them and our partners around the world. Normally, as Blake mentioned, we would’ve flown around the world twice already to meet with them, but I can’t wait to work with them closely on such great brands. •

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