Footwear Plus | December 2014

ST YLE HALL OF FAME INDUCTEES

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SOCK MARKET ANALYSIS

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PLUS AWARDS NOMINEES

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EDITOR’S PICKS : TO A T

DECEMBER 2014 • VOL. 24 • ISSUE 10 • $10

The Socks Issue

Legwear is hot!

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2014 PLUS AWARDS EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN & RETAIL

Vote Online Now FOOTWEARPLUSMAGAZINE.COM

MEN’S COMFORT c Rockport c Ecco c Merrell c Clarks

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LITTLE BLACK DRESS Michael by Michael Kors Vince Camuto Nine West Tory Burch

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WOMEN’S COMFORT Naot Cobb Hill Bernie Mev Birkenstock

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MEN’S COLLECTION Wolverine 1000 Mile Abington by Timberland Clarks Originals Sperry Top-Sider

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BOOTS c Ugg Australia c Dr. Martens c Hunter c Frye

WOMEN’S COLLECTION c Lucky Brand c Steve Madden c Sam Edelman c Jessica Simpson

COWBOY BOOTS c Justin c Lucchese c Durango c Ariat

RUNNING

Brooks Asics

Skechers GoRun Hoka One One

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ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE New Balance Converse

Vans Nike SB

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CHILDREN’S Keen Stride Rite Jambu Toms

OUTDOOR STYLE Taos Sorel Dansko Minnetonka SURF Sanuk OluKai Vans Reef

ONLINE RETAILER Heels Zappos Solestruck OnlineShoes (Write-in)

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BEST COLLAB c Taylor Swift x Keds c Pharrell Williams x

Adidas Originals c Karl Lagerfeld x Melissa c Samantha Pleet x

BEST KICKS COLLABS

Wolverine 1000 Mile

SIT & FITS Harry’s Reyers Shoes Comfort One The Shoe Buckle (Write-in)

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BOUTIQUE Moxie Walin & Wolff The Shoe Hive Bird (Write-in)

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BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE WHOLESALE c (Write-in only) BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE RETAIL c (Write-in only) BRAND OF THE YEAR Birkenstock Vans Skechers Ugg Australia Nike

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COMPANY OF THE YEAR Wolverine Worldwide Skechers Deckers Brands VF Corp.

Nike Brown Shoe Company

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c Concepts

x Converse

“Aran Sweater” c Ronnie

Fieg x Puma Disc

Blaze “Coat of Arms” c Atmos x Nike Free “Woven” c Bodega x Vans Vault

“Coming to America” SUIT & TIE Allen Edmonds Johnston & Murphy Ecco Cole Haan

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WORK BOOTS c Wolverine c Rocky c Justin Original

Workboots c Red Wing

NATIONAL CHAIN Nordstrom DSW Famous Footwear Off Broadway Shoe Warehouse c (Write-in) c c c c

OUTDOOR Merrell Keen The North Face Salomon

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F FA N Y AMERICAS HALL II | BOOTH#2005

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DECEMBER 2014

16 Sock Rally The legwear market is making a strong run, driven by men and women alike looking to add a splash of panache to their wardrobes.

By Tara Anne Dalbow 18 Midwestern Values Diane Butrus, COO of Diba Imports, makers of Diba True and Testosterone, on how the mediumsized fashion house is always looking to fill the market voids.

By Greg Dutter

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Lyndsay McGregor Senior Editor Social Media Editor Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor Lauren Fusilier Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large

31 Style Hall of Fame Our latest inductees, Dansko’s Professional and the Original Universal by Teva, are comfortable, versatile and timeless closet staples.

By Lauren Fusilier

ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

8 Editor’s Note 10 This Just In 12 Scene & Heard 38 Trend Spotting 50 Shoe Salon 52 E-beat 56 Last Word

On the cover: Dune London T-strap peep toe pumps, Adrienne Vittadini socks by United Legwear, dress with lace overlay by Katya Katya Sherurina, Ann Demeulemeester shirt.

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Greg Dutter Editorial Director

24 Power Play Worn by elite athletes and weekend warriors, performance socks deliver proven benefits and boost overall sales. By Lyndsay McGregor

40 Sweet The new cozy: socks with sandals soften chunky heels and platforms.

By Tara Anne Dalbow

PA G E

Caroline Diaco Publisher

This page: Fortress of Inca wedge, printed floral socks by Gold Toe, BCBG Max Azria dress.Az Photography by Trevett McCandliss; Fashion Editor: Tara Anne Dalbow; stylist: Sara Dunn; hair and makeup: Christy McCabe/Utopia; model: Eline/ Red Model Management.

Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer Judy Leand Contributing Editor

Capri Crescio Advertising Manager Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Joel Shupp Circulation Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl.

New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

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E D I TO R ’S N OT E Taking Stock

RAYS OF LIGHT Recounting the bright spots in a year that may go down in history as one of the darkest.

PLENTY OF BIG, memorable events happened this year, and a lot of them were of the very bad variety. Untimely celebrity deaths, fears of an Ebola epidemic, the rise of ISIS and its calling card of YouTube video beheadings, the disappearance of a jumbo jet without a trace, a mass kidnapping of Nigerian schoolgirls, another war between Israel and one of its neighbors, an old-school Russian military invasion that made it feel like the early ’80s again, complete with the shooting down of a civilian aircraft…The bad news went on and, unfortunately, on. It’s fair to say 2014 probably won’t be remembered as a good year, and that doesn’t take into account my brother’s sudden passing last spring. Years from now it will probably be the first thing that comes to mind whenever I think back on 2014.

That and the intense cold of last winter, which reminded me of my college years in Syracuse. It was the same slap-in-the-face cold. Experts blamed the Polar Vortex, which sounded more like a villain in a Star Wars movie than a weather phenomenon but at least gave the shivering masses a term for the frigid weather that didn’t include a string of obscenities. Fortunately, the cold wasn’t all about pain and suffering in our industry. It cleaned out boot inventories for thousands of retailers, which helped with the sell-in for this coming cold season. Will Mother Nature deliver a repeat performance? That remains to be seen, but it’s safe to say the current business climate is better than trying to clear out year-old inventory, especially if it turns cold and snowy again.

The cold weather also renewed demand for Ugg. If you recall, in the months leading up to last winter there were whispers about the brand cooling off and fretting among retailers about what might fill that sales vacuum. Well, a long, cold winter proved Ugg to be a go-to resource for consumers seeking warmth and protection from the elements. It’s good business for retailers when a brand is wanted, and it’s great when a brand is really needed, too. Some might even say that last winter gave Ugg a second wind, as its sales for the rest of the year performed above expectations.

Other brand bright spots in 2014 include Skechers, Nike, Vans and Birkenstock. Each is grounded in comfort and boasts a strong heritage.

In fact, if I had to pick two industry buzzwords of 2014, they’d be “com-

fort” and “heritage.” The enormous popularity of Skechers’ Memory Foam collection, Nike’s Free series and Vans’ classic slip-ons (arguably the silhouette of 2014, along with Birkenstock’s classic cork footbed sandal) prove that comfort sells. Period. Birkenstock, founded in 1774, is as relevant today as it’s ever been—a testament to the brand’s strength and its comfort premise.

The heritage factor continued to be a strong selling point for consumers this past year. A shaky economy is fertile ground for brands with a rich tradition. Consumers’ hesitancy to buy anything new, unknown or untested increases when discretionary cash is tight. And many retailers have conducted their buys with similar caution. Looking ahead, I forecast no real change. While the economy seems to be slowly improving, I don’t foresee a flood of free spenders taking the market by storm in 2015.

But that hasn’t prevented some new brands, styles, product innovations and retail concepts from breaking through this year. One of note is the Portland, OR, boutique Solestruck’s showroom concept, where shoppers scan an item with their smartphone and it’s shipped the next day. This allows the store to triple its selection without needing space in-store for inventory. Then there’s the wave of cool collaborations that has shoppers in the thousands lining up outside stores. If anything, this proves that unique items can inspire consumers to leave the confines of their homes to venture into a store. The thrill of the chase, the human interaction, the instant gratification…Perhaps traditional shopping can flourish when there is something worth shopping for. Maybe that’s one of the reasons Amazon, along with other online retailers, has decided it’s time to open its own brick-and-mortar stores.

Over the past year our pages have been filled with new ideas and innovations—from both start-ups and established companies. They are all inspiring stories involving creativity, determination and, most important, opportunity. The latter, in particular, serves as a continual ray of light in our industry, no matter how dark or cold the world gets.

Here’s to a bright and sunny 2015!

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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THIS JUST IN

SOCK MARKET ANALYSIS Women are investing in the latest “it” accessory in high and low styles.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2014

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DECEMBER 3-5

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N . Y. H I LT O N M I D T O W N HALL OF AMERICAS II

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scene & heard

Reyers Owner Honored

Plus Awards Nominees Announced FOOTWEAR PLUS HAS announced the nominees for its 16th annual Plus Awards in recognition of design and retail excellence this year. The Plus Awards, co-sponsored by FFANY and Ortholite, are the footwear industry’s only awards determined by the votes of thousands of wholesalers and retailers nationwide.

Winners will be selected by voters in 25 distinguished categories spanning the breadth of the footwear market, including athletic, comfort, dress, outdoor, children’s, work boots, as well as online retailing, comfort specialty and national chains. This year’s ballot features two new award categories: the Best Kicks Collab (the nominees are Concepts x Converse “Aran Sweater,” Ronnie Fieg x Puma Disc Blaze “Coat of Arms,” Atmos x Nike Free “Woven” and Bodega x Vans Vault “Coming to America”) and Outdoor Style (Taos, Sorel, Dansko and Minnetonka).

The coveted Brand of the Year honor will be decided between Birkenstock, Vans, Skechers, Ugg Australia and Nike. The nominees vying for Company of the Year are three-time defending champion Wolverine Worldwide and challengers Skechers, Deckers Brands, VF Corp., Nike and Brown Shoe Company. On the retail side, those vying for awards include National Chain of the Year nominees DSW, Nordstrom, Famous Footwear and Off Broadway Shoe Warehouse; Sit & Fits (Comfort One Shoes, Harry’s Shoes, Reyers Shoe Store and The Shoe Buckle) and Online (Heels, Zappos, Solestruck and OnlineShoes).

“The 2014 Plus Award nominees are a Who’s Who of industry leaders across the design and retail spectrums,” says Caroline Diaco, publisher of Footwear Plus. “I urge everyone in our industry to vote at footwearplusmagazine.com and we will, together, acknowledge the best of the best of 2014.”

The 2014 Plus Awards ballot appears on P. 2 of this issue. Online voting is open throughout the month of December. Presentations to the winners will be made during the FFANY show’s Opening Night party Feb. 3, 2015, at the New York Hilton Midtown.

BACK IN 1953 when Harry Jubelirer bought a those moves were never really considered. “I used 1,200-square-foot women’s shoe store located to kid him, ‘You could have moved to Pittsburgh, in the Pennsylvania steel town of Sharon from done this business a whole lot easier and made a the Reyers family, little did he envision that the lot more money,’” recalls Steven. “And he would business would mushroom into the world’s largest respond, ‘I better go back out on the floor and shoe store at a jaw-dropping 36,000 square feet sell some more shoes.’ That was his pat answer.” housing 175,000 pairs in inventory—all under one That’s largely because, according to Mark, his roof in a town of only 15,000 people. But that’s father’s first priority was always his family. “His exactly what transpired during his reign of four goal was to make a decent living, pay his bills and decades, and why the National Shoe Retailers to take care of his family,” he says. “To raise us in Association (NSRA) posthumously inducted a nice, small town where there was not a lot of Jubelirer into its Hall of Fame during its Annual traffic and not much chaos.”

Leadership Conference in The Jubelirer brothHollywood, FL, last month. ers believe their father’s Jubelirer’s sons, Mark and greatest retail trait—what Steven, co-owners of Reyers, makes him truly NSRA were on hand to accept Hall of Fame-worthy the honor.

—can be summed up in his “My father was able to motto: “Take care of the build the largest shoe store customer and everything in the world in a tiny, dying, else takes care of itself.” corroding steel town in the Not surprisingly, that middle of nowhere on the involved working seven Pennsylvania-Ohio border,” days a week, arriving when says Mark Jubelirer, presithe doors opened and dent. “That’s what sets him leaving when they closed. apart from everybody else “He worked his store. He in this business. It was a was the leader, the go-to unique accomplishment.” guy and had to be there.

Jubelirer notes that his He also set the pace,” says father was also a shoe man Mark, noting another of like no other. “He knew the his sayings was, “Try and intricacies of the business, do everything right and, from the opening of a sale whatever you do, try and to the closing. He also knew do it as well as you can At your service: Harry Jubelier, owner of every detail about every and better than everybody Reyers Shoe Store, was always ready to sell. shoe,” he says. else.” In this regard, it Jubelirer’s goal, however, was never to build helped that he was a micro-manager that left no the largest shoe store in the world. Reyers grew detailed unchecked. “There was nothing that was organically thanks to his business acumen (when unimportant to him. If he was in the stockroom he gobbled up competitors he hired their best and saw a shoehorn on the floor, he would pick people to work at Reyers), his willingness to it up and take it back to the service area where it work harder than anyone else (it was a hobby belonged,” notes Steven. Adds his brother, “There more than a job) and his outstanding customer was nothing that he would not do and there was service that generated a following that forced him nothing he could not do.” to expand in order to meet the growing demand.

It’s why the Jubelirers firmly believe their “Store expansions were always made to make it an father, if embarking on the shoe retail business easier place to shope,” says Steven Jubelirer, vice today, would achieve similar levels of success. president. Adds Mark: “It was all in an effort to “This was just a successful human being who offer better customer service, be it more parking had all the right values, the work ethic, the drive spaces, more sizes and widths, and more styles toward providing top-notch customer service, to please his customers.” tremendous creative energy, talent…He could What’s more, says Steven, his father had fun have sold ice to Eskimos,” Mark offers. And if doing it all. It was never drudgery. And while he Harry Jubelirer were alive to have accepted this could have called it a successful business at, say, honor, the sons say the always humble man’s 50,000 square feet and set it on cruise control, acceptance speech would have been brief: “Thank or he could have moved the business to a more you.” And then he would have moved onto the vibrant city with a bigger population to draw on, next customer.

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scene & heard

Concepts Pops the Cork

Drink it in: Concepts pop-up store in New York.

CONCEPTS, THE SNEAKER boutique subsidiary of The Tannery, opened its first pop-up shop in New York last month featuring a limited-edition collaboration with New Balance. The Concepts x New Balance Made in USA 997 “Rosé” ($235) was available at the Tribeca store, Concepts in Cambridge, MA, and cncpts.com. Sneaker fans waited for eight hours in line at the New York location, which sold out in a day, while Internet shoppers buzzed through the allotted inventory in about a minute.

But that’s only part of what makes this newsworthy. Tarek Hassan, co-owner

of The Tannery, says the shop will serve as a permanent rotating pop-up featuring a steady run of collabs with a variety of brands (spanning footwear, apparel and accessories). In addition, it will be an exhibition space for select brands to showcase their latest designs and technologies in between the collab sales.

“This is much more than just a retail space to sell to consumers,” Hassan says. “It will also be a place to educate and inspire them.” He believes such a level of interaction will deepen the connection between Concepts, its brand partners and consumers. “This is the next level of business,” he says, noting the concept is based on the premise that product is only as beautiful as the distribution in which it sits. “A store that is exclusively set up to sell one product makes the whole shopping experience that much more special,” he explains. “The exclusive setting adds value to the shoes, instead of the usual scenario where it’s merchandised around 20 other different brands. And our customers appreciate that they are partaking in something that is truly special.”

Hassan reports that wholesalers are fully on board. “The brands are very supportive and loving the whole concept,” he says, adding that it’s just the beginning. “We feel this is a whole new way of doing business for us.”

FACE Celebrates 10th Anniversary FOR 10 YEARS, the Fashion Association Charity Event (FACE) has raised funds to help support and empower people in need throughout China. With the help of its founding partners and other generous supporters, FACE has become an internationally renowned charity, having raised more than $10 million to date—over $1 million of which was collected in last month’s Grand Gala event alone.

Jim Issler, chairman of FACE and president and CEO of H.H. Brown, reports the organization has grown from a small group of benefactors to a large network of supporters. “This year’s Grand Gala was the largest in our event history with more than 260 attendees and the addition of two new charity organizations, The Liu Qian Charity Fund and the Han Hong Charity Fund,” he says. These two charities join other organizations such as The Pearl Retrieval Project, which funds promising students’ schooling, The China Welfare Fund for the Handicapped, which aids disabled children and adults in reaching their full potential, and The China Initiative, a Harvard School of Public Health Program, that helps address some of the key challenges in the country’s public health system, among others. All beneficiaries of

FACE are involved with promoting healthcare, medical research, social outreach and education to those in need across the country.

Many international celebrities performed at this year’s Grand Gala. Members of the China Disabled People’s Performing Art Troup put on the Thousand Hands Dance and many of the children benefiting from FACE’s charitable donations also performed.

Vocal performances by singer and songwriter Johnnie Jiang, film star and musician Richie Ren, and singer and Operation Smile ambassador Chadleen Lacdo-o graced the stage as well.

“The main goal for the organization always shall be to maintain and increase our network of supporters,” Issler says. The founding partners include H.H. Brown, Daphne, Synergy Shoe Co., Wei Hua and BBC International. This year’s event welcomed new participants Massimo D’Alema, former prime minister of Italy, and Dario Nardella, mayor of Florence, Italy.

Issler notes that attracting additional European donors is a goal going forward.

To learn more about FACE or become a supporter, log onto www.FaceFashion.org.

Magic Heels WHO COULD FORGET that iconic scene in The Wizard of Oz when Dorothy clicks the heels of her ruby slippers three times and is magically transported back home to Kansas?

Well, iStrategyLabs, a Washington, D.C.-based creative agency, is working on making that a reality with the creation of a high-tech device that calls a car service after the wearer clicks her heels together three times. Here’s how it works: a smartphone app (fittingly named Dorothy) links with a GPS-enabled device featuring a built-in accelerometer (dubbed Ruby) that clips into shoes. The pairing connects via Bluetooth technology. When it receives three spikes of data in a short window of time it prompts an action like calling the car service, Uber, or texting the wearer’s location to select contacts.

“We were excited by the challenge of using the power of your smartphone without pulling it out of your bag,” says DJ Saul, chief marketing officer and managing director of iStrategyLabs, who adds that simply walking around won’t trigger an unwanted call. For now, the agency is working out how to make the prototype smaller so it can potentially be built into an insole, as well as figuring out how to make it order a pizza or assist in public safety. Saul says the wearable technology could be ready for retail as soon as this spring.

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SPECIAL REPORT

Sock Rally Industry experts shed some light on how to max out on apparel’s fastest growing segment—socks. By Tara Anne Dalbow HEN JOSHUA WEINER wakes up in the morning and reaches into his sock drawer, he isn’t pulling out basic black and white socks from a bargain stores’ multi-pack. These days he is reaching for a bright pair of lively patterned socks that will bring some panache to his work uniform. Weiner, a 25-year-old who works for a real estate investment firm, also recently launched FridaySocks.com, a website dedicated to sharing sock designs, photos, stories and purchasing the latest in ‘Friday Socks Fashion’. The term Friday Socks has even become a social movement where men, usually restricted to conservative work uniforms, express themselves through pairs of statement-making socks. It’s a growing community and when coupled with the increasing popularity of legwear among women reveals why the category is on fire.

Retail analytics firm NPD reports that sock sales over the past year have grown 2 percent—a rate that, in this fragile economy, has outpaced the general growth of the $206.7 billion global apparel market. In particular, the firm reports that men’s socks sales amounted to $2.8 billion—14 percent more than in 2012 and the biggest increase among all the sartorial segments. Once a hidden afterthought, socks have moved center stage. Observing the ankles of men and women on a weekday commute has become something of an art show. There are socks in bright hues, bold patterns, stuffed in sandals (once a nerdy taboo), peaking out from pant hems and up-to-the-knee centerpieces of an outfit.

Shelby Mason, founder of Bootights, reports that her sock sales have doubled since 2013.

Mason launched the company in 2011 to solve her own sartorial dilemma: she loved wearing boots with tights, but hated that her feet slid around all day. She created the Bootight—a tight with a performance sock attached at the foot. Today the company has expanded beyond hosiery and now offers socks in various heights with the same performance bottom and fashion-forward design. Mason attributes socks’ recent popularity to the comfort trend that has taken the industry by storm. “For so long women sacrificed comfort for style to look good,” she says “but the trend now is comfort, and socks are not only comfortable but stylish too.” Mason adds that consumers have so many more brands and styles to choose from, which is also contributing to the category’s popularity.

“There’s better quality, different materials, more interesting and unique designs,” she confirms.

Yasmina Mokraoui, portfolio manager for Patterned styles by Psycho Bunny, credits the burgeoning men’s 16

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Happy Socks add panache to today’s casual work attire.

fashion industry as helping fuel sock sales. “Men’s fashion, in general, is on the upclimb. Men are looking for ways to show how fashion-forward they are,” she says. Mokraoui reports that its retail partners have bought in greater depth and more varieties this past season. (Polka dots and zigzags are its current best sellers.) “We’ve seen the trend brewing for the past three or four years. It’s been in GQ, Esquire and on the red carpet,” she adds. “Men only get so many accessories and socks are a way for them to show their personality without crossing the conservative threshold.”

Marshal Cohen, NPD’s chief industry analyst, agrees that men have been driving the growth in this category of late. “Socks have become yet another outlet for expressing the extra splash of pattern and color they seek,” he says.

Heather Wilson, marketing manager for Gold Toe, notes the trend follows recent apparel and footwear trends. “As men’s clothing and shoes get more colorful, so do socks,” she says, adding, “Some have coined the sock as the new necktie.”

Isack Fadlon, co-owner of Sportie LA, notes that the trend has introduced a whole new wave of consumers that seek something unique and exciting.

“We’ve seen this with sneakers, T-shirts, belt buckles, hats and now socks,” says Fadlon, adding that the relatively low price point allows customers to experiment with colors and patterns they wouldn’t usually try. “It’s a way to show personality without overly committing,” he adds. Fadlon reports that Nike Elite, Happy Socks and Stance are his best-selling brands.

Isaac Ash, president and CEO of United Legwear, licensee and distributor of Happy Socks and several other brands, confirms that its best-selling styles incorporate the consumer’s taste for bright colors, print and patterns. “The sock has joined the ranks of the necktie and the pocket square as a must-have accessory,” he says.

Current fashion trends are also contributing to the sock surge. Men’s higher pant hems, for example, allow more of the ankle to show.

And the necktie, which was once a vehicle for creative expression, is near extinction in a casual dress world. What’s more, the casual workplace attire trend allows men and women more freedom in their office uniform. “Socks are an important way for the modern worker to express individuality,” says Vincent Nasserbakht, owner of Sock Hop, a New York-based sock and shirt boutique.

Women are even reaching for socks regardless of their shoe’s silhouette. Once reserved for boots and sneakers, socks are being paired with strappy stilettoes and retro Mary Janes.

Even socks with Birkenstocks and other sandal silhouettes are now widely accepted thanks, in part, to the Normcore movement and the luxury sportswear trend. The look spans barely-there decorative anklets to chunky knit knee-high socks.

It’s clear that socks are having their >36

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Midwestern Values

Diane Butrus, COO of Diba Imports, makers of Diba True and Testosterone, on how the medium-sized fashion house is always looking to fill the market voids.

WHEN SPEAKING WITH Diane Butrus the first thing that comes across is her managerial frankness. She tells it like it is. The fact is she has a master’s degree in management, but there’s also a Midwestern straightforwardness about her that is quite refreshing in an industry that has more than its share of dreamers and hucksters. While such hyperbole will always be a part of the fashion business, Butrus doesn’t partake in any of that. “Our goal has always been to have a medium-sized company, and we never really wanted to be super famous,” she says. “We just want to do a good job, make a decent living, provide a nice life for the people who work for us and not have too much stress.”

But don’t take this modest description too literally. Diba Imports, makers of Diba True and Testosterone as well as licensee of Bronx, and its sister company Demand Shoes (makers of Luichiny and Caliente) is anything but a sleepy, staid or unambitious footwear operation. For starters, you don’t stick around in this business for 25 years by doing the same thing season after season.

Founded by Butrus’ father, Joe, in 1989, the business has zigged and zagged and continuously found ways to adapt and survive. “My dad’s philosophy, for as long as I have known him, is to always fill the void,” Butrus says.

Take the impetus behind how Diba came into being. Butrus’ father, who rose through the ranks of Edison Brothers to vice president of merchandising for Chandlers, had crossed into wholesale as the first U.S. sales rep for Bronx. A couple of seasons into selling the edgier European styles to retailers across America, he was on a plane when an industry colleague slapped him on the back and thanked him for a Bronx shoe that he sold the previous season. “My dad had sold about 2,500 pairs of that style and this guy sold about one million pairs of a copy to Payless,” she says. “Well, my dad didn’t sleep that night and started a new business the next day called Diba.” Butrus’ father believed he could fill the market void by duplicating select Bronx styles better than the competition. “He had the last and he knew where the shoes sold and in what colors and styles,” she explains, adding, “in the beginning, Diba was just the best Bronx shoes from the previous season.”

A more recent example of filling a market void involves Diba’s entrance into the men’s market with the launch of Testosterone this year. The premise being that younger men (think millions of Millennials entering the workforce) are ready to graduate from wearing sneakers 24-7. But they are unlikely to jump into their fathers’ brands and seek something fresh and edgier. “Men are wearing jeans as dress code, but they need something to go with them that is acceptable to wear to work,” Butrus says. “I also like to use the analogy that when they are done dating girls and want to date women, they shouldn’t be wearing just sneakers.”

The launch of Diba True last year is another case study of how to fill a market void—this time led by leather boots priced in the $150 to $175 retail range. The reaction has been strong, which Butrus attributes to consumers responding to product that pops at an attractive price. “We also upgraded our branding and the boxes,” she says. “We’re priced under $200 yet offer similar quality to price points well over that figure.” Butrus says the proof is in the re-orders. “Last fall, our first full season of Diba True, we had more re-orders in our line than we had in the last five years,” she reports.

“This year we are trending in the same direction. We are getting re-orders every day.” Butrus notes that one customer recently re-ordered five styles.

“Five styles re-ordered on a Monday morning from one customer with one store...That’s super exciting,” she says.

Indeed, there’s plenty to be excited about at Diba. In addition to these aforementioned initiatives, there are others that have been launched and more in the pipeline. Not to mention a thriving private label business.

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O&A Butrus believes being a mid-size company enables Diba to be nimble but also big enough to execute on its numerous endeavors. “We own our own 45,000-square-foot warehouse. We have a ton of flexibility to grow as well as partner with other companies,” she says. With regards to possible partnerships, Butrus says the plan is to help select start-ups get their businesses to the next level by tapping Diba’s extensive backroom capabilities. “Start-ups often sell out or give up their dreams because they can’t get the back office squared away,” she says. “All they need is what we already have.”

Butrus and her father balance each other well in positioning Diba today and going forward. It’s been a left and a right brain partnership between manager (daughter) and dreamer (dad) that’s approaching two decades now.

“My dad comes up with a great new idea about every five minutes, and I What are you reading? Echo tell him we are only going to do one a Burning. It’s No. 5 in the Jack year so keep thinking,” Butrus laughs.

Reacher series.

“We counterbalance each other well.”

popping up all the time, so we have been spending more time looking for them than we are for brick-and-mortar stores.

And the good news is?

The best thing that has happened this year is that our recently launched Diba True and Testosterone brands have exceeded expectations.

What are some of the factors behind Diba True’s strong response?

If people aren’t necessarily shopping for something in particular but see something that pops, they respond to it. The antiquing of the leathers, for example, makes it pop. These boots retail in the mid- to upper-hundreds, but we believe we are offering a similar quality to price points well over $200. every day like your life Our biggest re-orders are coming from depends on it. a combination of online dealers and independents, especially those located Who would be your most in the south. Flat boots, in particular, coveted dinner guest? play well in that part of the country.

Werner Erhard.

They like that distressed materials look.

Diba is also known for boots—it’s our What is your least favorite most prominent category—so retailers word? No. come to us for that.

OFF THE CUFF

It’s a lesson Butrus learned when she What is inspiring you right first joined the family business in 1996. now? Leadership. I just got She had been working previously in an back from an international airplane factory (McDonnell Douglas) leadership-training course and then for Leica, where she sold optical in the Bahamas and I’m all and laser measuring equipment to the excited about that. automotive and aircraft industries. A self-described “technology person,” the What was the best takeaway first thing she sought to implement at from that conference? To Diba were five- and 10-year business listen more. We usually listen plans to replace its one-year budgets. just enough to get a sense “My dad laughed and said it doesn’t work of what somebody is talking that way in the fashion business,” she about but not actually get recalls. “I learned very quickly that every into their world. In doing year is a new year and it’s like making that you can make such a sculpture out of sand where the tide a big difference in how you comes in and you start all over again.” connect with people and Nonetheless, Butrus has brought Diba what you can accomplish up to speed logistics- and technology-wise. together.

Today, for example, orders are shipped within four hours if the inventory is in What is your motto? Live the warehouse. “We are really focused on customer service, and that requires good sales materials, systems and people,” she says. “We are able to either do a whole lot of business or less, depending on the ups and downs of fashion cycles.”

Amid those peaks and valleys, Butrus’ goal is to maintain Diba’s mediumsized equilibrium. Not to be the biggest or the flashiest, rather a company that is respected and reliable. “Let me put it this way,” she says in describing Diba’s corporate philosophy, “my dad lives in the same house that he did when he started this business. We’ve never gone off the wall with anything.

We just try to do the right thing and stay on top of everything and go to bed without any regrets.” Midwestern values personified.

So how’s business been overall this year?

Frankly, it’s been very challenging. It’s like walking through a minefield sometimes. While our business with the dotcoms is growing, a good deal of our independents are struggling. The first six months of this year winter seemed to last forever and consumers are buying more online. I always root for the little guy, but it’s tough for them right now. There are more dotcoms

If God put you in charge, what would be your first decree? No more killing.

And the reaction to Testosterone?

Every single customer that we’ve shipped to except for one has re-ordered. That, by far, exceeds your expectations when What sound do you love? you launch a new brand. We are working Laughing. with very good factories and the quality is spectacular. The shoes feature a What is your favorite bunch of details like brushed leathers hometown memory? I that make them stand out, and it’s at was born in Philadelphia a very good price point ($130 to $160 but my family moved to St. retail). We are also inventorying them by Louis when I was six and my the pair so there are no minimums. In favorite hometown memory is fact, with a few select independents we Cardinals baseball games in offered the added incentive of shipping the playoffs. I love it. shoes that they could send back within 30 days if they didn’t sell. No one sent shoes back. The dotcoms were a little slower to come around, but we are now getting more established in that tier. We are now looking at some department stores. They are a little more conservative when it comes to the name. We are waiting patiently for them to become more familiar with it and realize that they are shoes and it will be OK (laughs).

Why, exactly, the name Testosterone?

Some people really like the name—us included—and some people are not so sure, but nobody forgets it. We like that Testosterone is bold, memorable and refers to guys. Our tagline is: “Testosterone shoes: made for men.” It’s as simple as that. And we don’t mind being a little controversial, which I think helps with the younger generation.

Who is the Testosterone customer?

Initially, we thought it would be a young urban guy under 30, which we are getting. But we are also getting customers over that age. In general, we are

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O&A selling to guys that are interested in shopping for shoes, as opposed to those that basically buy a new version of their same shoe.

Is this a growing segment within the men’s market?

I think we are trending in that direction, and that doesn’t strictly apply to guys who are the metrosexual type. We believe we are just at the beginning of a fashion curve where men in general are moving out of sneakers-only and into shoes. That’s why getting guys to try Testosterone on has been key because if they do, the shoes pretty much sell themselves. And if a guy gets a few compliments from women, his buddies will ask where he bought those shoes. It becomes a whole different ballgame because they become aware of the difference their shoes can make.

Where does the Bronx license fit into the Diba Imports portfolio?

Bronx has had some interesting turns. When U.S. fashion has followed European trends, it has sold well in the U.S. Today, however, fashion is going in reverse and Bronx has gotten heavily into sneakers as a result. Frankly, sneakers made in Portugal are super expensive. They look great, but not for double or triple the price. So Bronx hasn’t been our major focus of late. In addition, Diba True has been out-performing Bronx over the last several years because it’s specifically developed for the U.S. marketplace.

What might you attribute this fashion reversal to?

I think it’s due to social media. Everybody is connected with each other all over the world. You spread all the information around and everything gets closer together. Trends used to start in Europe and then the next season move to

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New York followed by Chicago, St. Louis, etc. But it’s not that linear anymore.

But, as my dad always says, fashion is cyclical. We are never going to get stuck with any one thing. There will always be the next thing.

When just might that be, because I think our industry could use some newness right about now.

I agree that fashion trends have been somewhat limited over the last few years. I kid my product development team to please come out with the next craze because it would really make a difference for us as well as the whole industry. The economic conditions over the last several years have really had a negative effect on the retailers’ willingness to accept new and fresh brands.

We believe, however, a pent-up demand for that is eventually going to bust out because consumers can only take so much sameness. That’s why we think there’s a void in women’s shoes—below the ankle and closed-up styles. I think we are at the beginning of that movement. Women are ready for shoes after seasons of buying boots, booties and sandals. Now it’s up to us to come up with styles that work with the athletic apparel trend and not against it, but we feel we are doing that.

Might the sameness at retail be a bigger industry ailment than the weak economy at this point?

It could be. The bigger companies get, the less innovation there is in the marketplace. And it works both ways because the bigger the retailer, the bigger they want their resources to be. That’s why their floors all look the same and that’s what leads to boring fashion. That’s the inning I believe we are in now. We are also trying to address this issue with exclusive partnership with

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some of our retailers. For example, we partnered with J.C. Penney to launch Diba London last fall, which are styles influenced by the streets of London.

It’s been doing well.

Did J.C. Penney come to you?

It was a combination. We hadn’t been selling to them for years, but they had a change in their buying department. The new team was more familiar with what we could accomplish and understood what Diba represents to the American consumer. Still, it took something special, which included exclusive product, point-of-sale materials and new boxes. They didn’t want just another me-too brand. Our intention is to partner with another retailer next year on an exclusive collection. Again, we are looking to fill voids for our customers.

What qualities enable Diba to have such brand elasticity?

One of the main reasons is having production based in several countries. We make shoes in China, India and Portugal, as well as a few other countries in a small way. It gives us the ability to match any price point. We are also customer service-oriented and more than willing to work on special collections. In addition, Diba is very much a centered brand. So to take one step toward London, the south or New York is easy for us.

Collaborations, in general, have been very successful of late.

Absolutely. Think about it: If it’s easy to obtain something, you get some joy out of that. But if it’s difficult—where you have to stretch just a little bit whether it’s being in the right place at the right time, paying a little more or seeking it out to buy it—the amount of joy you get out of obtaining that purchase is tenfold.

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It’s also what retailers are looking to do in the absence of a meaningful fashion trend. Collaborations stand out amid all the sameness at retail.

Just how many collaborations is Diba Shoes capable of producing?

Unlimited in the sense that we actually already do that in our private label business. We make shoes for a lot of other brands and it’s actually the biggest segment of our business. Specifically, we are not trying to make shoes the cheapest way possible. Most of our competition looks at price point, whereas we may not have the highest initial mark-up but we very well may have the highest maintained margins because our shoes look better on the table. Retailers don’t have to discount our products as much in order to sell through because they look like you should spend more money for them.

Where do you see Diba in five years?

I see us taking on another brand and expanding our offering. I also see us combining logistics with companies our size and smaller. In particular, younger brands that are trying to jump into the marketplace but lack the capabilities to set up the infrastructure that we already have in place. I see us helping some of the start-ups get started. That way they could spend their efforts on sales and product development and not on logistics and customer service. For example, our warehouse is located in the middle of the country and we can pretty much ship anywhere in the U.S. in two days. That’s a big deal. And, believe me, my rates with FedEx are going to be so much better than any start-up’s. My relationship with the freight forwarders, the factories and the box manufacturers are also going to be a lot better. We also have our own IT and CPO on staff. A start-up isn’t going to have that. The >54

11/18/14 7:21 PM

POWER PLAY

W This graduated compression sock from Goodhew’s Sockwell label helps reduce minor swelling and foot fatigue by pushing blood upwards, while cushioned soles, arch support and no-slip tops further pamper soles.

It’s time retailers get in on the low maintenance/

HEN MEB KEFLEZIGHI won the 2014 Boston Marathon last April few, if any, of the thousands of cheering onlookers knew that the white knee-high socks the American marathoner sported were far more than a sartorial choice to match his red, white and blue uniform and complement his fiery red Skechers GoRun sneakers. They were CEP compression socks, featuring tight toe-holders that claimed to improve circulation and oxygen delivery to his muscles, stabilize his calves, support and warm his Achilles tendons and reduce foot and muscle fatigue. The jury is still out on whether the socks actually were the differencemaker to the 39-year-old’s epic win (they’re usually worn post-workout to aid rapid recovery), but one thing is for certain: performance socks shone bright on one of the grandest of sport stages.

Once a bland, mostly all-white afterthought, socks have become a critical piece of equipment for everyone from serious athletes to weekend warriors. Spanning the aforementioned compression technology to moisture-wicking materials to padded footbeds that promise blister prevention to an array of sports-specific designs, today’s technical socks deliver on a host of comfort and performance needs. Styles range from paper-thin no-shows for minimalist runners to chunky knit crew-length socks for hardcore hikers—all a far cry from the $5 multipacks on sale at the local discount superstore. According to Matt Powell, vice president of industry analysis for sports and leisure trends at The NPD Group, the overall market for athletic socks have come a long way since those days. He reports sales soared to $3 billion at retail last year, up from just $1 billion in 2011. What’s more, experts say the category is only getting started.

“Ten years ago we were educating our customers about getting out of a cotton shirt and into a Nike Dri-Fit, explaining that they would be much more comfortable while running. Now, those innovative performance technologies have rolled all the way down to socks,” says Shawn Marlovits, owner of Fleet Feet Sports in Hoboken, NJ, who counts the highly technical Feetures and Balega brands among his store’s top-selling socks.

Mo Blinder, creator of Mojo, a Brooklyn, NY-based company that makes compression and recovery socks, says the growing popularity is largely a simple case of monkey see, monkey do. “As more and more professional athletes (like Keflezighi) embrace the technology, the average weekend warrior wants in—and this has definitely increased demand,” he reports, noting that his business has tripled in the past year. Blinder adds that it’s a worthy opportunity for retailers.

“If you’re not selling [performance socks], you’re missing out on some great revenue potential,” he says.

Mike Tyer of Fox River, a century-old performance sock manufacturer based in Osage, IA, known for its wide array of hiking styles, believes the growing popularity of technical socks runs deeper than consumers copying their heroes. “Once they start putting on more serious equipment, whether it’s shoes or backpacks, they start seeing the benefits of technology,” he says.

Specifically, Tyer points to the advancements in fiber technologies, like being lightweight, breathable, dry, durable, etc. as helping fuel performance sock sales. Bruce Barrows, vice president of sales and marketing at technical sock maker Lorpen, adds that consumers are more receptive than ever to technology as a way to improve their lives. Wearable technologies, in particular, are of interest. “Consumers understand that having the right gear not only helps them perform better, but also keeps them more comfortable and safe,” he notes.

Mercedes Marchand, vice president of design and merchandising for Goodhew, adds that today’s consumers are savvy. “They’re well-educated and if they see

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hig

nce/

high margin action of performance socks as a way to boost sales. By Lyndsay McGregor

that a sock is going to offer features that will make them feel and perform better, they want it,” she says.

Become a Sock Broker John Gaither, vice president of product at family-run sock company Feetures, says there’s still time for retailers to capitalize on this emerging category. “Stats show that about 0.6 socks are sold for every shoe—there’s a huge opportunity to increase that number,” he notes. “We notice that if we show up at a race, lots of runners still aren’t wearing high-quality performance socks. Retailers should take advantage of that.”

For specialty shoe retailers, be they athletic or comfort, performance socks present a potentially meaningful revenue stream. For starters, the category doesn’t take up much inventory or floor space. There are fewer size runs to manage. It’s not customer segment specific—everyone wears and needs socks.

They usually sell in multiple pairs. They often sell themselves, especially to the performance sock converted. And they are a relatively easy and affordable add-on sale, particularly when compared to trying to sell a second pair of shoes. Performance socks can also be viewed the same way that insoles upgrade a shoe. Along such lines, why plunk down $120 or more on a quality athletic or comfort shoe only to have a $1.99 sock be the source of discomfort and possible blisters. For a few extra bucks the customer is assured of a better wearing experience and, likely, he or she will remember the retailer who made that recommendation.

Chase Fleming, store manager at Texas Running Company in Austin, says retailers should not sweat the higher price point of performance socks. (A pair typically retails for upwards of $12.) That hasn’t been the case at his store and he cites socks as an important segment of the business. The key is to get them on the customers’ feet. To this end, he says Texas Running Company starts every fitting process by having the customer try on a quality running sock. “We’re able to address an important customer need with a high-margin

Designed for life on and off the green, Stance’s Golf Fusion line blends crisp style with its signature Triniti Technology: traction control, cushioning and support, and moisture management.

Ideal for trail runners, Lorpen’s T3 collection is made from a moisture-wicking blend of CoolMax and Tencel, while strategic cushioning and nylon reinforcement improve durability.

product that typically leads the way in add-on sales,” he says.

Likewise, at Fleet Feet socks are an integral part of the footwear fitting process. “When we sell someone a running shoe, we include socks as part of the process versus on the way out asking, ‘By the way, do you need socks?’” shares Marlovits. “We check out what they have on their feet and we either sell them a pair right at the initial fitting process or at the very least we try to get them out of their own socks and into a good brand.”

According to Brian Quarles, senior vice president and creative director at Revolution, a sports marketing consulting firm, recommending try-ons is the most straightforward way to ring the register. “If the store is authentic and trustworthy, the consumer won’t have a problem spending a little more on a pair of socks,” he says. It’s a tactic that’s used at outdoor clothing and equipment chain Eastern Mountain Sports, notes Alex Lauver, product manager for socks, base layer and accessories. He names Smartwool and Darn Tough Vermont as his bestsellers and adds that socks are a “big business.”

Sock Options Most athletes and weekend warriors tend to put their gear through its paces and are always on the lookout for products that will work overtime or give even the slightest of edge. It’s why Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst of The NPD Group, recommends that retailers focus on new innovations when trying to justify the higher cost of performance products. “Consumers want to learn what products are available to make life better and that’s why they will buy. They most likely don’t need that many more socks, but they do want new ones that do more,” he says.

Like Bridgedale’s Cool Fusion, coming in Spring ’15, which fuses natural fibers with Coolmax technology and promises to keep bikers, hikers and runners cool and dry during warm weather. Or Lorpen’s updated trail running and multisport collections, which next season will feature a new knit that offers a lighter yet more durable wear. Or Fox River’s new Peak series, spanning Tencel-merino

Inspired by Falke’s running socks, the RU Free is anatomically specific, features an open-mesh structure that promotes breathability and ventilation, along with a seamless toe and reciprocated heel.

Selective cushioning allows for padding and compression to be strategically placed in key areas of this Mojo anklet, providing shock absorption where it’s needed and cutting down on blisters and other irritations.

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LOUD AND PROUD Sock makers up the style ante with an array of bold hues and wild patterns.

Stance

Fox River

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Feetures

UPGRADES IN ATHLETIC apparel’s fashion appeal have helped spark a makeover in the sock market. Gone are the gray, black, navy and white basics of yore; today’s offering of performance socks comes in a kaleidoscope of colors, prints and patterns—and, increasingly, the louder the better.

“Five years ago, if you had gone into a running store the shoe wall would have been mostly white with a few accent colors mixed in, and now it’s totally changed,” notes John Gaither, vice president of product at Feetures.

“Now shoes are multicolored with lots of neon, and apparel and socks look much the same way.”

“Consumers want to look good when they’re working out just as much as they do when they’re going to work,” continues Gaither, noting that Feetures’ most technically advanced sock, the Elite, will be updated in a rainbow of hues for Spring ’15. The same goes for Darn Tough Vermont, which will offer colors and designs that “push the boundaries of what is traditionally offered in the performance sock category,” says Ric Cabot, president and CEO. Taylor Shupe, chief product officer at print-happy sock label Stance, cites the increasing popularity of color runs and themed marathons as a reason for the uptick in demand for colorful legwear. “It’s become a lot more playful,” he says. The bolder the color and the louder the print can also be effective (and free) forms of marketing. As Mercedes Marchand, vice president of design and merchandising at Goodhew, says, “If you can’t catch the consumer’s eye with design, then you can’t educate them about your products.” —L.M.

wool blends to PrimaLoft microfiber for added insulation on brisk hikes.

Beyond those bells and whistles, the leading brands all offer varying degrees of moisture management, which is the most important feature of any performance sock. According to the American Running Association, the average person’s foot produces between 10 and 15 gallons of sweat each year—and that’s while at rest. During activities this number skyrockets, and cotton socks just can’t keep feet dry. Jen Serna, apparel and accessories buyer for the Snail’s Pace Running Shop chain in California, suggests offering this tidbit of information to shoppers who are on the fence about purchasing a (more expensive) moisture-management sock. Marlovits also advises such product attributes as the back tab on a no-show sock (it won’t slide down), an inverted seam (it doesn’t rub against toes and cause blisters or hot spots) and a Y-shaped heel (it won’t ball up and prevent the sock from fitting the way it should). “Every single time you see a customer with a multipack of cheap cotton socks in their hands, use that as an opportunity to introduce them to a higher quality sock,” Lauver advises.

In order to help dispel the old notion that a good pair of shoes is all one needs, Feetures has created the “Step Up Your Sock Game” pro-

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gram, an educational tool to help store associates understand the mechanics and benefits of a performance sock and how to best represent that to their customers. “We designed the program to raise awareness about the category, the opportunities that exist and how important it is to the active experience,” Gaither notes, adding that participating retailers have reported an increase in sales since the program launched earlier this year. “Consumers are learning that a good pair of shoes is only part of the equation. To have a really great experience you also need a good pair of socks,” he adds.

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Sock Tips According to NPD, sales of women’s athletic socks peak in the spring and summer months, while Fleming says he usually sees an uptick in demand as the weather cools down and Austin enters the racing season for casual and professional runners. The point being, performance socks sell year round. It’s not like when the warm weather arrives consumers will forego wearing socks while running.

Not sure what brands or styles to stock? Lauver suggests a core assortment of proven winners: “Ask brands for their sales history,” he says. “Ask what they’ve been successful with in your area and why.” Barrows of Lorpen shares a similar tip. “Oftentimes retailers see manufacturers’ websites as competition. However, what retailers should know is that it is, in fact, a huge opportunity to glean valuable intelligence on what the consumer is really looking for,” he says, explaining that whatever is selling online is what the customer wants. He adds, “Retailers should be asking sales reps for that information rather than trying to guess.”

Stocking the right socks, however, will be all for naught if the customer doesn’t even know they’re in the store. As Serna points out, 90 percent of shoe store customers are looking for footwear, so keeping socks within sight of the shoes is critical, as well as merchandising them in a way that makes it easy for shoppers to immediately find the size they are looking for. “I can’t tell you how many stores I have walked into that have shoes and boots on one side of the store and socks on the other side or by the cash register,” Barrows says, noting that it renders a revenue opportunity an afterthought by customers.

His advice: Sell the socks with the shoes. “In the footwear section you already have the consumer’s attention. It’s the perfect opportunity to educate your customers about the importance of high-quality socks, especially after they have made a $100-plus purchase of footwear,” he says.

Taylor Shupe, chief product officer for Stance, which first dipped a toe into the performance market with basketball socks a year ago and will introduce run-specific product this spring, says a dedicated space will provide dividends. “Since we told our sports accounts we need four square feet of real estate right near the shoes, they’ve seen new revenue,” he says.

“Customers will buy one pair of shoes and two to three pairs of our socks.”

Colin Sanders, sales manager for technical sock maker Bridgedale, recommends that specialty shoe retailers look to ski stores for tips on how to cross-sell socks. “A consumer buying $300 ski boots usually ends up spending $500 because those salespeople don’t let the consumer leave without buying all the accessories, including two pairs of socks,” he says, adding, “on a per-square-foot basis and profit margin perspective the ROI on socks is significant.” James Buckley, managing director of marketing for Falke, agrees: “Take the guesswork out of the process. Legwear can generate great square meter performance when it is taken seriously as a business potential and the sales staff is focused on selling at least one pair of socks for every shoe. It’s easy math.”

Last but not least, socks are a basic commodity and need to be regularly replenished—in good times and bad. Even during a shaky economy, socks still sell, confirms Mark Comcowich, director of sales and marketing for Darn Tough Vermont. Marchand of Goodhew agrees: “Consumers might not buy a new coat or suit each season, but they will buy socks.” And performance socks hit on a list of incentives to buy. “Not only are consumers being educated about innovation and technology, they also own a wellbuilt product that can potentially enhance their performance—all without spending more than $20,” Shupe offers. That’s a win-win scenario for sock makers, retailers and consumers. •

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F O O T W E A R

P LU S

STYLE HALL OF

FAME PREVIOUS INDUCTEES: 2007: VANS “CHECKERBOARD”; FERRAGAMO “VARA”; CLARKS “WALLABEE”; MERRELL “JUNGLE MOC”; 2008: NIKE “AIR FORCE 1”; UGG “CLASSIC SHORT”; BERNARDO “MIAMI”; DR. MARTENS “1460”; 2009: FRYE “CAMPUS”; REEBOK “FREESTYLE”; STRIDE RITE “PARKER II”; BIRKENSTOCK “ARIZONA”; 2010: CONVERSE “CHUCK TAYLOR ALL STAR”; HUSH PUPPIES “EARL.” 2011: SPERRY TOP-SIDER “AUTHENTIC ORIGINAL”; TECNICA “MOON BOOT.” 2012: KEDS “CHAMPION”; TOD’S “GOMMINO.” 2013: MINNETONKA “THUNDERBIRD”, ROCKPORT “PROWALKER”

2014 INDUCTEES

Dansko “Professional”

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DANSKO PROFESSIONAL

Dansko’s Professional clog helped introduce Americans to Euro comfort and change the lives of millions of professionals along the way. By Lauren Fusilier

The Great

MANDY CABOT AND Peter Kjellerup never expected to go into the shoe business. In fact, the married couple’s first profession was importing and training world-class dressage horses. It was a horse-buying trip that took them to Kjellerup’s hometown in Denmark, where they happened upon the shoes that would forever change their lives. All of the workers in the barns wore the same footwear—known by the locals as ‘farmer shoes.’

The Danish clogs featured closed-backs, a rounded toe and durable leather uppers. They were also “the most comfortable, supportive, easy-wearing, easy-care shoes we’d ever worn,” Cabot recalls. She and Kjellerup picked up pairs for themselves, as well as their staff. “As my parents often told me,” she says, “if you’ve got something great to share, you share it. With that, Dansko was born.”

Dansko, whose name translates to “Danish Shoe,” has benefited greatly from the sharing mentality. Cabot credits much of the initial success of the Professional clog, which they introduced to America in 1990, to the strong word of mouth recommendation the style received. “Our friends fell in love with the Professional, so they told their friends. And then their friends told their friends,” Cabot says. “Before we knew it, we had begun selling the clogs at horse shows, right out of the back of our station wagon.” Cabot soon spotted the clogs being worn outside of the local barns on dog walks, while traveling and hanging out with friends. She attributes the crossover appeal to the clog’s versatility and comfort. It just works really well as an everyday shoe.

“Comfort, support, ease of wear and versatility are the four most frequently lauded attributes,” Cabot says. While the CEO admits that the comfort features are somewhat hidden and unconventional, the shoe’s “firm and somewhat elevated platform, broad and rigid heel counter, generous fit, and rocker bottom” are the keys to what she describes as its exceptional ride. The Professional, in fact, wears the American Podiatric Medical Association (APMA) seal of approval, which is granted to products that promote good foot health as determined by the association’s podiatrists.

“The Professional style is iconic because it has a unique construction that is extremely supportive under the foot, making it comfortable and giving all-day support,” agrees Ed Habre, president and CEO of The Shoe Mill, a comfort chain based in Portland, OR, and one of Dansko’s original retail partners.

In addition to its proven comfort benefits, retailers

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cite variety as a main factor behind the Professional’s long-running appeal. Season after season the style has undergone numerous color, material and pattern updates that give the closet staple a fresh take for loyal wearers, as well as whet the appetite of new customers. Indeed, the style has boasted more than 1,000 different upper iterations, from hair calf to patchwork leather, felt to boiled wool, even neon bubbles to a zoo full of animal print patent leathers. The outsole has also seen different dressings, such as wood grain stains and braided jute.

The updates on the classic, reports Dave Bailey, cofounder of Danform Shoes based in western Vermont, is what has kept his customers coming back year after year for their next Professional clog fix. “The comfort is the starting point and then [the consumers] talk about the colors,” he says. “The customer is basically buying the same great shoe, just with different upper materials.”

Bailey adds that this formula assures that customers get the same high-quality clogs they know and trust, but it also provides incentive to buy several different styles—often within the same season. “So many different upper materials allow consumers to boldly express their individuality,” Cabot says.

Sales of the Professional grew steadily over the first few years and took off when it caught on with people working in the healthcare, restaurant and education fields. Many of these professionals cite, in particular, its incredible support that allows them to stand comfortably for extended periods of time. Cabot notes that from the brand’s second year onward, consumers began asking for similar comfort in other silhouettes, and it wasn’t too long after their launch that the couple set aside their equestrian business and became full-time shoe people. The Professional has served as the cornerstone to what was once affectionately referred to as “the little clog company” and now is a full-fledged footwear brand sold by thousands of retailers nationwide. Dansko now extends to boots, sandals, flats, activewear, heels and beyond. It is also a company renowned for its core values regarding environmental conservation, charitable initiatives and employee support.

Retailers like Habre praise the brand’s other styles that stay true to its comfort foundation. “Dansko has done well in adapting their footwear offerings to meet the style preferences of their fans by producing products that meet their style needs and have the Dansko ‘comfort DNA,’’ he says, adding that the Professional is still tops.

“The Professional is probably in the top 10 styles we have ever had in the history of our company,” he notes. (The Shoe Mill first opened its doors in 1978.) “It has been foundational to our success as a Euro comfort footwear

retailer.” The same can be said for Danform Shoes who also opened their first doors in 1978. “Without a doubt, it is the shoe we’ve sold the most pairs of in our history,” Bailey says. “I’d be very surprised if we haven’t sold 20,000 pairs.”

Cabot never underestimates the importance of the Professional to Dansko’s overall business. In fact, the company is always looking for ways to improve upon its classic clog. “In 2011, we launched the Pro XP collection with a softer, more cushioned insole that could be swapped out, as well as added a slip-resistant outsole suitable for wet or oily workplaces,” she says.

And with the Normcore movement sweeping fashion of late, the Professional has re-entered the spotlight. The clogs even experienced a high-fashion moment this fall when it was featured prominently in designer Karolyn Pho’s Spring ’15 homage to the ’90s fashion show held during New York Fashion Week. Pho cited the style’s “classic, minimalistic touch” that she describes as a “huge statement piece while remaining subtle.”

“It’s having a resurgence right now,” Bailey concurs, “especially in the traditional black or brown oiledleather versions.”

While the Normcore trend that embraces’ 90s-era comfort basics is right in step with the Professional, style experts don’t see the demand decreasing once the next fashion wave comes ashore. And that’s the true test of what makes for an iconic shoe. Fashions may come and go, but these shoes never go completely out of style.

They stand the test of time.

Cabot says Dansko is dedicated to meeting the demand, be they the loyal ‘Fandanskos’ or the newly converted.

“The Professional is here to stay,” she promises. “We will continue to keep it fresh by introducing new materials and treatments each season, as well as continually evolving the way we deliver on our comfort promise through our commitment to innovative construction and craftsmanship.” •

White hot: Dansko’s Professional takes center stage during Karolyn Pho’s homage to ’90s fashion Spring ‘15 show.

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TEVA ORIGINAL UNIVERSAL

Universal Appeal

The Teva Original Universal spawned the sport sandal category and has encouraged wearers to embrace a go-anywhere, do-anything attitude for 30 years and counting. By Lauren Fusilier

WHEN MARK THATCHER created the first Teva sandal in 1984, he did so out of necessity— there was no such thing as a sport sandal at that time. A rafting guide in the Grand Canyon, he was sick of waterlogged sneakers and guests losing their flip-flops on the river, so he attached a Velcro watchband to a thong sandal and the first sport sandal was designed.

After complaints of blisters rolled in, the sandal was modified to go over the toes instead of in-between, a third strap was added along the outside of the foot to connect the toe and ankle straps, and the iconic silhouette of the Original Universal was born—not to mention a new performance sandal footwear market segment that has generated billions in sales over the past three decades. One could argue that without the Original Universal there would be no Air Deschutz sandal by Nike, Chaco or Keen.

Deckers Brands has manufactured and distributed the first-ever sport sandal from its beginning in 1986. “The Original Universal was a hit from day one, and literally started on the ground floor, as our first point of distribution was selling out of the trunk of a car to guides and specialty retailers,” says Angel Martinez, president and CEO of Deckers Brands.

The sandal was an immediate success with outdoor fanatics. Marianne DeChant, co-founder of Sierra

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South Mountain Sports in Kernville, CA, which was Teva’s first retail account, recalls, “We got 60 pairs into the shop the first weekend we carried them and we sold out.” She adds, “When we wore them around town, people stopped us and asked us where we got them—there was no one else making an active outdoor sandal at that time.”

Martinez confirms that the sandal was an immediate hit with outdoor enthusiasts, but it didn’t take long for them to start showing up on feet at college campuses and on city sidewalks. “The popularity of the style really gained momentum after landing with our first national account, L.L. Bean,” he says.

Part of the appeal was the infusion of color and an artistic aspect when the sandal was fitted with patterned jacquard webbings.

The brand also started to promote the ideology that still guides them today: “The Original sandal appeals to a mindset—not a demographic,” Martinez asserts.

Along those lines, the ads from the early ’90s asked: “Do you exist in shoes or live in Tevas?” and this free spirit, embrace of adventure and the outdoors heritage lives on today. Isack Fadlon, co-owner of Sportie LA, says part of what makes the brand and that particular style so special is the “emotional bond we have with Teva—everyone has a Teva story. All of our staff have their own stories, whether it’s concerts, rafting trips or hiking trips. For me, it was traveling around Europe in my Tevas.” Sportie LA has sold Tevas since the late ’80s and Fadlon says it’s been an anchor brand for the store that keeps customers coming back.

Part of that draw is due to the sandal’s versatility that makes it capable for wear in a variety of conditions. “Teva is made so comfortable,” says DeChant, “it is such an all-around great shoe, so you can hike in it, go shopping in it, walk around town in it—and the price point is awesome. Anybody and everybody can wear it—it’s got really broad appeal.” Consumers of all ages sport the style, and it can easily be dressed up or down. In addition, the numerous color and print options make it easy for wearers to put a personal spin on the sandal.

The Original Universal is certainly a staple found at music festivals like Bonnaroo and Coachella and in national parks, but what makes the style iconic is its ability to transform from the sport and casual arenas onto the stage at high-end fashion shows. In 2010, fashion label Grey Ant worked with Teva to create a stiletto version. During this September’s New York Fashion Week, Original Universals

were spotted on several runways, including Degen, Charlotte Ronson and David Hart shows. “The fact is, it takes color really well,” Fadlon says. “You can pop color and fabrics really well and it works with trends—like the trend we had back in the day of socks and sandals, that trend has resurfaced, and what sandal looks better with socks than Teva?”

The style does translate beautifully in collaborations, adding yet another dimension to the wide spectrum of options.

Embracing the socks and sandals trend, Teva has partnered with Woolrich on a collection of box sets in eye-popping prints and colors that complement the patterned webbing and colorways of the sandals. The collection debuted this fall at select Urban Outfitters stores as well as on teva.com and woolrich.com. To help guide shoppers on how to pull off the #SocksandSandals look, Teva has also teamed with stylists Elizabeth Stewart and Kira Sheppard for tips that can be found on its website.

Another current take on the iconic silhouette is the collaboration with Glamour, which rendered a beautiful, feminine silver version of the sandal. Fadlon sees such offerings as a natural step in the Original Universal’s evolution, stating, “In the initial run, it was less fashion-oriented and more utilitarian, but now it’s both—it speaks to those who are very fashion-oriented these days.” He also foresees that “we are just seeing the beginning of the comfort trend and it is going to be long-term, not just a fad. This sandal and this look will be here for a long while.”

The Original Universal has already been around for a long time and its popularity shows no signs of waning. In fact, Martinez reports that Teva has more than doubled its bookings on the style in the past year globally. DeChant says its stores sales are on the uptick: “Teva is huge for us. It brings people in the door,” she says. “Because we’ve been selling it for so long, people know that they can stop in and get them here and it’s by far still one of our best sellers.”

The brand’s openness to collaboration and innovation, its proactive approach to seek new points of relevance, and its long-standing commitment to quality ensure that the Original Universal should keep its toehold in people’s shoe closets in the years ahead. “The Original Universal sandal will continue to evolve with culture and our consumer, but always maintain its iconic style and a sense of freedom every time you strap a pair on,” Martinez promises. •

From top: Original Universal and Woolrich socks combo; striking a pose in David Hart’s Spring ‘15 collection; Grey Ant collab; starring in Samantha Ronson’s recent runway show.

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SPECIAL REPORT

Footwear Plus is Turning 25!

Celebrate with us as we look back on a quarter century of: • Standout Styles • Industry Stars • Notable Trends ...the milestones and memories we’ve all shared.

Anniversary Issue:

April/May 2015

Special advertising opportunities available.

contact: Caroline Diaco, Publisher (917) 450-7584 caroline.diaco@9threads.com

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continued from page 16 moment and those retailers that address the category in their stores, as well as follow some key merchandising tips, have the best chance to cash in on the trend. For starters, retailers should merchandise socks with shoes when possible. It enables shoppers to get a feel for how and with what they should wear them. “They used to be hidden or separate, but now they need to be included and styled,” says Fadlon. Ash concurs: “Socks tell a better story when they’re merchandised with footwear.”

Mason suggests putting together a style guide that can either be displayed in an acrylic holster or shared with customers using social media.

Arranging socks with complete outfits or showing them on leg forms also helps customers see how they will look out of their packaging. Mason says that placing the most colorful and unique style on the leg form will attract the most attention, prompting some shoppers to purchase not only a basic black pair but a funky pair as well.

“You want to get customers to understand how important a sock is,” she says, adding that having sales associates wear the socks is an effective promotion. To that end, Lisa Ferrari, designer for Maria La Rosa, believes socks will sell themselves if styled properly. Such has often been the case for her full range of knit legwear and accessories, which includes a collection of detailed, highly feminine socks made in Italy and collaborations with the likes of Alexander Wang, Donna Karan and Louis Vuitton.

Another effective merchandising technique is to hang socks on a wall, creating an artistic display.

“Wall displays draw customers in,” Mokraoui says. Grouping patterns together allows for more freedom with colorization. “You can display every color iteration together as long as the pattern is the same,” she adds.

Chris Jones, co-director of 122-year-old luxury knitwear company Corgi, recommends a wall display in addition to placing a few pairs at various displays around the store. “This is useful in triggering the customer to think about buying socks alongside any other purchases they are making,” he says.

Wilson reports that displaying socks in secondary locations has led to sales increases. “At the second point [retailers] get more people buying impulsively versus being a planned purchase,” she says.

Some sock brands offer unique display units that not only serve as compelling points-of-sale but can also boost the store’s visual appeal. Happy Socks, for example, offers a wide range of wall, floor and tabletop displays that can be intermixed throughout the store. “When legwear’s retail footprint is increased, customers understand that socks and tights are an important part of a total look rather than an afterthought,” Ash says, adding that the units come in an array of colors and materials and can be tailored to fit a store’s existing décor.

Happy Socks also offers seasonal displays and gift boxes. Ash says they are easy to assemble and, for example, its Christmas tree displays can hold up to

300 pairs, reminding consumers that socks make the perfect holiday gift.

Nasserbakht recommends considering the sensory quality of socks when merchandising.

“Unlike ties, there is a tactile relationship with socks,” he says. The Sock Hop’s displays encourage customers to partake in a “hand test” and feel the difference, for example, between cotton and cashmere. Introducing shoppers to a wide range of fibers and their specific benefits builds interest and excitement, he notes.

Experts say treating socks as more than just a commodity or an afterthought sale will not only raise margins but also build customer loyalty. “The sock has been often an article despised by people who dress for work daily and dislike the necessity,” Nasserbakht explains. “Simply removing the apprehension and bringing joy to an item can boost customer loyalty.” Mokraoui agrees, adding that if retailers are able to sell customers a statement sock and they later receive compliments, the odds are they will come back for more. And that’s where multiple sales come into play. Because a man may sporty pink polka dot socks on a Monday but he shouldn’t try that look more than once a week. He needs a rotation of statement socks. “You have to think outside of the box,” Mokraoui offers. “If you can sell them a pattered sock, you’re going to have a repeat customer.”

Regularly refreshing inventory will also encourage customers to come back. In fact, Fadlon says that that is one of the best aspects about socks: “Styles change all the time. Come in next month and we’ll have a completely different assortment.”

He credits Sportie LA’s frequent inventory rotation to a level now where customers are coming in just to check out the latest socks. “The shoe is sometimes the add-on,” he laughs.

Psycho Bunny and Gold Toe advise retailers to update their sock selections as often as apparel is updated. Experts also note that the traditional sock seasons of fall and winter are expanding into a year-round business. “Women are wearing their boots in spring and extending the sock season,” says Mason. Mokraoui adds that men are also buying socks year round, opting for sock liners in warmer weather and wool socks in the winter. Nasserbakht claims that switching from heavy wool socks to a light cotton socks can help transition a client’s entire wardrobe. “Socks are one of the more easily updateable aspects of a man’s wardrobe,” he adds.

Fashionable, affordable, versatile, needed…Socks are on a roll with little let-up in sight. Fadlon, for one, predicts double-digit sales growth the next year and plans to buy even deeper into the category next season. Jones is equally bullish on the sock market: “We will always need socks,” he says.

“But more than that, people are always looking for a quick, easy and cost-effective way to make a fashion statement, and socks are the perfect way to do just that.” •

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Fox River

Adrienne Vittadini

Happy Socks

Of All Threads

Falke

Richer Poorer

SOCK A 38 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2014

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Stance

Adrienne Vittadini

Gold Toe

Bootight

Of All Threads

Falke

K ART

Pop art, op art and minimalism…

Sock beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

BY TARA ANNE DALBOW

2014 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 39

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T-strap heels by Nicole, Falke socks, floral dress

by Galliano, Todd Oldham Select Vintage Collections

by Malin Landaeus shirt.

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THE NEW COZY : SOCKS WITH SANDALS SOFTEN CHUNKY HEELS AND SOLID PLATFORMS.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS STYLING BY SARA DUNN

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Kelsi Dagger Brooklyn gladiator sandals, knitted socks by Lemon, Just Cavalli dress, lace shirt by Select Vintage Collections

by Malin Landaeus.

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Fortress of Inca wedge, printed floral socks by Gold Toe, BCBG Max Azria dress.

43

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Sbicca Vintage open-toe slingbacks, printed socks by Stance, pink sleeveless top

by Select Vintage Collections

by Malin Landaeus, pleated blouse by Karl Lagerfeld Select Vintage Collections

by Malin Landaeus, Dominic Louis skirt.

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Dansko leather clogs, Falke sheer metallic socks, white dress by Milly, nude button down dress by Dominic Louis.

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T-strap sandals by A.P.C., Gold Toe argyle socks, mandarin style dress by Select Vintage Collections

by Malin Landaeus worn over stylist’s vintage petticoat.

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Madison Harding wood and suede heels, sheer paneled socks by Falke, silk pleat dress by Select Vintage Collections by Malin Landaeus, Charles Warren white top, white silk bandeau

by CF. Goldman.

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Suede MaryJanes by Cordani, rust lace socks

by Falke, Honor dress worn over Valentino shirt by Select Vintage Collections by Malin Landaeus.

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Coclico platforms, polka dot socks by Richer Poorer, silk mini dress by CF. Goldman worn over Lover blue lace romper and Honor white lace shorts.

Hair and makeup by Christy McCabe/Utopia; fashion editor: Tara Anne Dalbow; model: Eline/Red Model Management.

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EDITOR’S PICKS

To a T

This 1920s-inspired silhouette gives spring heels a dose of retro glam.

DESIGNER CHAT

Catherine Fung

WOMEN’S WORK collection, especially with the finishing. Ombré colors were hand-polished on calf and handpainted stroke marks left on snake skin,” Fung notes, adding that while the Italian-made collection reflects the latest trends, the line never strays from its core philosophy. “Andrew Kayla is never loud, but its distinct point of view sees each design inspire quiet confidence and strength through a beautiful, impeccably crafted shoe.” —Lyndsay McGregor

Dune London

What is your first shoe memory? A new pair of red Mary Janes when I was 3 or 4 that I wouldn’t want to take off—I even wore them to bed.

Who is your style icon? Gwyneth Paltrow.

Which famous face would you like to see wearing one of your designs? Gwyneth Paltrow.

Where do you like to shop? Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, an antique market in Paris.

All Black

Which shoes in your closet are getting the most wear? Andrew Kayla’s Dylan, a double monk-strap style.

What shoe must every woman have in her closet? A pair of nude leather pumps.

Which trend do you hope to never see again?

Crocs.

Which designer do you admire the most? The late Alexander McQueen.

What is your favorite part of your job?

Planning the color story and theme at the beginning of every season.

If you weren’t designing shoes, what would you be doing? Designing evening gowns, readyto-wear or lingerie.

Fortress of Inca

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES

WHEN SECONDGENERATION shoe moguls Stephen and Michael Lin (Their family’s Hong Kongbased company has produced footwear for more than 40 years.) decided to launch their own line of women’s shoes, Andrew Kayla, they were eager to find a designer with a keen understanding of femininity. Catherine Fung, given her background at a 120-year-old lingerie atelier in Paris, was an obvious choice.

Adept at balancing comfort and elegance, the Hong Kong-born designer deftly brought the brothers’ vision for simple, sophisticated shoes to life, and Andrew Kayla made its debut in the fall of 2012.

“Each season, we spend a lot of time developing the lasts which define the elegant silhouette and comfort in wearing, and then I focus on the materials,” explains Fung, who graduated with a business management degree from King’s College London before studying fashion design at Parsons in New York. Her resume includes stints at Nicole Miller, House of Field and her own womenswear line, LP&P. Fung adds, “After design, we make prototypes over and over to refine each part, namely the toplines and heels. There are many steps before shoes are completed.”

For Spring ’15, classic silhouettes are infused with unexpected details, adding modern touches to timeless styles. For example, a simple smoking slipper is elevated with iridescent snakeskin; a two-piece flat gets an injection of edge with grommet details; a double monkstrap slingback is placed atop a stocky heel.

“A lot of handcrafting work went into the

Cobb Hill

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n

Saturday’s Child Kate Spade Saturday collaborates with New Balance and jumps into the performance shoe market this spring.

ON THE HEELS of the Lululemon-led athleisure trend sweeping women’s fashion the past few seasons, Kate Spade Saturday, the designer’s lowerpriced line of pop art-inspired apparel, accessories and home goods, is getting into the game by teaming up with legendary athletic brand New Balance on a capsule collection of performance trainers.

“Athletic footwear and apparel has made a huge comeback in the fashion world over the past few seasons, which has raised women’s expectations for style in both lifestyle and performance athletic footwear and created a great opportunity for fitness-fashion collaborations,” says Kyle Andrew, senior vice president and brand director of Kate Spade Saturday.

The companies first hooked up with a casual kicks collection with New Balance subsidiary, PF Flyers, last year. The collaboration clicked at retail. “There was interest on both sides to extend our relationship into the performance category, to appeal more to the active and fit New Balance consumer, as well as the fashionconscious Saturday consumer who also leads an active lifestyle,” says Sarah Kopriva, strategic business unit manager for women’s fitness footwear at New Balance. She adds that the partnership delivers on what both brands’ consumers are craving right now: comfort, performance and playful styling.

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That recipe comes together in New Balance’s popular WX711 trainers, which will be available in three exclusive colorways, and two iterations of the WX811, a new fitness trainer debuting in January.

Retailing for $95 (a higher price point than the company’s standard models), and replete with painterly splashes, geometric graphics and eye-popping yellow accents, these sneakers may look pretty but they are built for serious workouts.

Combining a Cush+ midsole, which New Balance claims is at least 13 percent softer than most lightweight performance foams on the market, TPU overlays and Fantom Tape technology, which provides strategically-placed support, the shoes can be worn casually, on a run or during a gym workout.

“As a lifestyle brand, we are entering another aspect of the Saturday girl’s life,” Andrew says, adding she envisions the collection for the customer who “has an eye for style but also expects functionality in the pieces that can take her anywhere.” She also hopes the partnership will introduce new shoppers to both brands. As an extension of the exclusivity aspect behind the collab, Andrew says distribution will be limited to Kate Spade Saturday and select New Balance stores, as well as their respective websites. The aim, she says, is to “keep the collection feeling special.” —L.M.

PUBLISHER’S STATEMENT 1. Publication Title: Footwear Plus. 2. Publication No.: 0006-9750. 3. Filing Date 10/15/14.

4. Issue Frequency:monthly except bi-monthly April/May and Oct/Nov. 5. No. of Issues Published Annually: 10. 6. Annual Subscription Price: $48. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 9Threads Ltd. 36 Cooper Sq. 4th Floor, New York NY 10003. 8.

Complete Mailing Address of the Headquarters or General Business Office of the Publisher: Symphony Publishing LLC. 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145. 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Caroline Diaco, 36 Cooper Sq. 4th Floor, New York NY 10003; Editor: Greg Dutter, 36 Cooper Sq. 4th Floor, New York NY 10003; Managing Editor: none. 10. Owner: Symphony Publishing LLC.; Leon Zapis, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Maria Wymer, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Donna Thomas, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Renee Seybert, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145, Richard Bongorno, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste 300, Westlake OH 4414511. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None. 12. Publication Name: Footwear Plus. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2014. 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation. Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/Actual No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total No. Copies: 20,396/19,077 b. Legitimate paid and/or requested distribution: (1) Paid/ Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions: 8,300/7,231 (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions:0/0 (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, and counter sales:0/0 (4) Requested copies distributed by other USPS mail classes:0/0 c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation:. 8,300/7,231 d. Nonrequested distribution: (1). Outside county nonrequested copies:.8.010/9,411 (2) In County nonrequested copies:. 0/0 (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through other USPS mail classes:0/0 (4). Nonrequested copies distributed outside the mail: 3,702/2,200 e. Total nonrequested distribution: 11,712/11,611 f. Total Distribution: 20,012/18,842 g. Copies not distributed:384/235 h. Total:20,396/19,077 i: Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 41%/38% 16. This Statement of Ownership will be printed in the December 2014 issue of this publication.

17. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions and/or clivil sanctions.

Caroline Diaco, Publisher

11/17/14 4:45 PM

E-beat

Match Maker

Promoboxx has launched an incentive program built to reward retailers’ digital marketing efforts with local ad dollars.

STOREOWNERS FRUSTRATED BY the rules and reimbursement paperwork behind digital co-op advertising may soon have reason to rejoice. Boston-based startup Promoboxx has launched Match, a service that offers brands a quick and easy way to reward their retail partners’ online marketing efforts with local mobile ads. The goal, says Promoboxx CEO and Co-Founder Ben Carcio, is to disrupt the outdated system currently in place for how local retailers are compensated for digitally promoting the brands they carry.

Despite the move to online advertising, most manufacturers have been slow to adapt their co-op programs to the new format, meaning that brands provide financial incentives to retailers for digital the same way they do for such physical ads as billboards and newsprint: Retailers aren’t compensated right away and must go through a paperwork process to get their money back. By forcing retailers to front the cost, brands further tighten the cash flow for independents, meaning that many small businesses don’t utilize the co-op dollars available to them, which in turn limits local exposure and sales for both parties.

That’s where Match comes in. Once a retailer takes marketing action on Promoboxx on behalf of a brand—such as sharing a pre-created campaign or product launch on social media, in an e-mail or adding a banner to their website—the store can then immediately redeem its reward: hyper-local mobile ads targeting consumers within driving distance of the business. “We’re providing retailers with marketing materials that they may not otherwise have the time or resources to create, and enabling them to interact and engage with social media and also drive traffic to their stores,” offers Emily Tuggle, community manager for Mizuno U.S.A., which has been testing out the program, along with Reebok and Timberland, among others.

Carcio reports that participating brands are experiencing strong increases in retailer and consumer engagement. In particular, consumer in-store traffic has reportedly doubled since the program’s launch. As Cassie Heppner, North America marketing director for Timberland points out, “It’s a great way to advertise outside the retail space and reach consumers on their mobile devices, which is where they’re spending most of their time anyway.” Now Promoboxx is working on expanding Match rewards for Facebook, Twitter and additional paid media channels. “By rewarding the brand’s retailer network with local ad dollars, both the brand and retailer benefit from increased local exposure to nearby customers,” Carcio says. —Lyndsay McGregor

BUYER CHAT

Nicholas Amoroso Ami Clubwear

IT’S A WELL-KNOWN fact that many business deals are brokered on the golf course. For Nicholas Amoroso, who spent six years working as a caddy at Sherwood Country Club in Thousand Oaks, CA, the opportunity to walk the greens with corporate bigwigs was a valuable education. “From CEOs and hedge fund managers to celebrities and pro athletes, I got a chance to pick the brains of all of them,” he says. “I think I learned more in those six years listening to their stories and how they made it than I ever could have in a college classroom.”

So one summer when his wife decided to make a pair of white fur boots because no one was carrying them, his business acumen kicked in and, in 2004, the Ami Clubwear online retail site was born. Carrying clothing, footwear, handbags and accessories for trend-hungry young women shopping on a budget, Amoroso says the Industry, CA-based digital dealer prides itself “on having every style in every color.”

The site is updated with a whopping

200 new shoes on a daily basis, carrying its eponymous private label as well as select styles from the likes of Steve Madden, Alba, Bamboo, Qupid, Liliana, Privileged and more.

“No matter what big brand you are interested in, we have something that looks very similar at a very affordable price,” he says, but is quick to add, “No one wants to deal with returns, so I try hard to only bring in high-quality shoes.”

Though some styles, like thighhigh lace-up stiletto boots or multiprinted platform pumps teetering on 6.5-inch heels, are not for the faint of heart, the e-tailer also stocks a wide selection of riding boots, basic flats and pointy toe oxfords. And while some e-tailers are starting to test the brick-and-mortar waters, Amoroso says that’s not in the cards for Ami Clubwear—or, at least, not yet. “For us, the Internet was the beginning and that has always been our focus,” he says. —L.M. What’s your buying philosophy?

I believe we should have something for everyone and the only way to do that is to buy one of everything.

What are the site’s key trends for Spring ’15? Gladiator heels, wedges and sandals.

What about key colors? As always, pastels and florals will be key for everyone but for Ami, pink is our thing. We will have 10-plus shades of pink in our spring collection.

What trend have you seen enough of ? I hate the vintage-inspired trend. Something is either vintage or it’s not.

What’s your favorite part of your job? The hustle.

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O&A continued from page 23 synergies would make us both more efficient as we battle these bigger companies that are efficient by their sheer size. We have to get smart, too.

As increasingly difficult as it is for start-ups, they keep coming.

Absolutely. Anybody who is willing to get some samples made, be able to sell those and build a bankroll so they can make some more shoes and possibly start selling to bigger retailers can build a business. My parents did just that. My dad sold shoes out of the trunk of his car, our garage was the warehouse and my mom typed out invoices in our basement. That’s literally how my family business started. But to go from selling a few shoes out of your car to being able to sell to Nordstrom today is not easy.

Sourcing, for one aspect, has to be one of the most difficult challenges.

Yes. The bulk of our production is in China, India and Portugal. There’s a shift happening out of China and we plan to let some of the bigger companies do that heavy lifting and then we’ll jump on their coattails. We took a leadership position in India

about seven years ago and lived through some very challenging times figuring out what cities, which manufacturers, the right freight forwarders, etc. to be partners with. In fact, we are doing production for some companies because they don’t want to go back into India on their own.

What drove you to stick it out in India?

Primarily the fact that the types of leather shoes we want are about 35 percent more expensive to produce in China. We feel like we have gotten the factory to the point where they are making shoes that look like we once did with our factories in Brazil.

Where might the next great sourcing country be?

I hope it’s in Africa. I think it would great for a country like Ethiopia, for example, and it would be great for the shoe business. Unfortunately, production will probably spread out to several countries, which won’t make it any easier for our industry. Still, I hope it’s in Africa and our industry helps develop another under-developed region of the world. Our industry has the ability to provide a

lot of jobs and help a country commercialize itself, and that’s definitely a positive.

Despite the numerous challenges facing Diba and the industry in general, would you still label yourself an optimist?

By nature, I’m an optimist. I’ve always believed in people. Human beings always find a way to survive, and we’ll find a way to make the shoes business work.

I don’t know what it’s going to look like exactly five or 10 years from now, but I suspect it won’t look like what it does today because what we have been doing is not sustainable as an industry. That’s why, for one thing, I think we are going to see more start-ups. And if you are flexible enough and willing to evolve, then I think you can be successful.

What do you love most about your job?

The people I work with and building good relationships with our customers. I love dealing with people and bringing out the best in them, which I’m happy to be doing in my family business. Because no matter what business you are in, if the people are lousy then you are going to be miserable. •

New of Unique Detailing and 100% Quality Painted Leathers Hand-Made Artistic Designs

FFANY Dec. 03-05 New York, NY Booth# 2014

Atlanta Shoe Market Dec. 10-11 Atlanta, GA Room# 412

FN Platform Feb. 17-19 Las Vegas, NV

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KICK UP YOUR HEELS & RUSTLE UP NEW BUSINESS

THE USRA MAY EVENT Uniting the shoe industry

May 5-7, 2015 • Wild Horse Pass Resort • Chandler, AZ

Join the USRA Posse & make your business worth hootin’ and hollerin’ about!

Be among the sharp shoe-ters, with retailers, reps and vendors. Cowboy up and get down to business. There’ll be showdowns, sundowns and hoedowns too.

Saddle up and round up more business. § Most Wanted: Keynote Speakers, Panels & Workshops § Continuing Education Points for CPEDs § Sales Discount Bounty § Golf Showdown § Grub & Bunk Included § Network with the Best § Boot Scootin’ Boogie Western Night

hosted by

One Industry. One Goal. One Place.

Don’t be left in the dust. We’re countin’ on you to be there, partner!

Call or email the USRA office for Membership info or a May Event package Phone: (818) 703-6062 • Email: Linda@USRAonline.org • www.usraonline.org

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LAST WORD

Talking Points

CLEAR VISION TV personality, author and shoe expert Meghan Cleary’s insights on shoes go much deeper than the latest designer crushes. By Lyndsay McGregor

looks and up-and-coming designers that should be on your radar.

So what’s hot? Boots, boots and more boots. Marrying mobile and retail environments. Colorful sneakers. Listening to your customer.

Wingtips for women. Hybrid wingtip-sneakers for men. Chunky heels.

Ordering online and picking up in-store. The basic black stiletto.

What’s not? Boring sneakers.

Chasing trends. Thinking you know what your customers want—without asking.

IT ALL STARTED with a pair of baby blue wedge espadrille sandals. That’s when Meghan Cleary fell head over heels in love with shoes. “I have been obsessed since I was 5 years old,” reveals the TV personality, author of The Perfect Fit and Shoe Are You? and weekly contributor to The Hollywood Reporter’s fashion and beauty website, Pret-a-Reporter. “Shoes are intriguing because they are the only item of clothing you can put on that affects the way you walk, carry yourself and present yourself in the world,” Cleary offers. “For me, fashion is all about self-expression, art and cultural and anthropological trends—and shoes encapsulate all those things in one perfect package.

I cannot get enough.”

Here, the self-proclaimed shoe expert offers her opinion on what’s driving trends today, hot spring

What are some key looks for Spring ’15? Softer palettes like pale blue, blush pink, deep creamy taupe and very light lilac, as well as bright, bold pops of color—super fluorescents and bright cobalt blues.

Detailing is also going to be big.

Do you think Normcore will live into next season? There have always been consumers who wear “Normcore” styles because that’s their go-to shoe. Whether we will see fashionistas and style influencers continue to embrace these styles is another question.

What’s driving trends? Trends are absolutely fascinating right now because they are omnidirectional.

A trend can bubble up from a street style photo snapped in São Paolo, from a cocktail party in Moscow or from a strong designer collection.

That’s why it’s a difficult time to be

a designer or retailer now because it is hard to capture any one particular zeitgeist. Instead, you have to really know your customer and deliver what resonates with him or her.

And what’s the best way to go about finding that out? With trends being so omnidirectional, you’ve got to find out what your customer is doing, thinking, feeling, eating, reading, etc. If you can tap into that, you can avoid lulls better. Even a few casual conversations can give you the pulse, validate or dispel an instinct you might have about your customer, design direction or market.

What’s influencing consumers as they shop? All consumers care about when they shop, whether online or in-store, is: Does this particular store know me? Is this retailer serving up looks that resonate with me? Do they know my style, my lifestyle, what I am craving—and can they serve it up to me in a way that’s easy for me to find?

Consumers want to know that as unique as they are, there’s always something that speaks to them in a retail environment.

Which celebrities have the sartorial power to send shoppers rushing into stores? Gwen Stefani, Victoria Beckham, Beyoncé, Lorde.

What celebrity/brand collaboration would you like to see? I’d love to see Diane Kruger designing a luxury line of shoes. She has a very

individualistic, cutting-edge style and an eye for what’s next.

Who are some up-and-coming shoe designer stars? Jerome C. Rousseau is hitting a second stride as he gets even more play on the red carpet. He’s got some midi-heels coming for spring in punchy colorways. Chloe Gosselin is incorporating some interesting details into her sumptuous second collection—she calls it shirttail detailing. Chrissie Morris is a totally underrated brand that I’d love to see more of in the U.S. Chelsea Paris is a favorite of Beyoncé—I love how she is playing with silhouette and shape.

Wal & Pai is a new line out of Los Angeles that is embracing a soft neutral color palette and playing with shapes and detailing. Also out of L.A., Sydney Brown is making fierce, vegan, directional shoes. And Henri Lepore Dezert made a strong debut this season and I am looking forward to seeing what the brand has up its sleeve for spring.

How many pairs of shoes do you own? More than 50, less than 500.

Is there a perfect shoe? I happen to think my silvery-gray python pumps by Azzedine Alaia that I bought in 2006 are perfect. They are a mitered platform, which means it’s a platform that gets smaller as it nears the edge of the shoe in the toe box, with a perfectly proportioned heel that’s solid but still elegant.

Wal & Pai Chloe Gosselin

Jerome C. Rousseau

Sydney Brown

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Fashion Inspires Us Value Drives Us

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