Footwear Plus | August 2016

C L I N TO N O R T R U M P : T H E FA L LO U T

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T R E N D S P OT T I N G : S I G N S O F S P R I N G

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AUGUST 2016

F E A T U R E S 20 Game of Thrones Clinton or Trump? How it might affect sales, sourcing and style.

By Lauren Olsen

50 Dynamic Duo Meet the father-daughter team behind the 92-year-old Hilton’s Shoes. By Kathy Passero

Kathy Passero Editor at Large

72 Power Play Kids’ is all about statement styles for spring—the perfect antidote to grown-up apparel trends. By Emily Beckman 76 Cool Summer Fresh takes on camouflage let guys stand out in any environment.

By Ann Loynd PA G E

This page: Denim brogues by Cat. Vintage Sasson jeans, camisole by Elie Tahari with Sandro duster. Twisted X perforated sneaker.

Photographer: Trevett McCandliss; Fashion Editor: Ann Loynd; stylist: James M. Rosenthal; hair and makeup: Matthew Sky/Next Artists; model: Tayla/Fenton Model Management.

Shot on location at L.I. Livestock Co.

80 Faded Glory The fabric of America: Denim stretches across a range of silhouettes. By Ann Loynd

D E P A R T M E N T S 12 14 16 18 60 70 90 92 94 96

Editor’s Note This Just In Scene & Heard A Note to My Younger Self Footwear Forum What’s Selling Shoe Salon Athletic E-beat Last Word

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Ann Loynd Senior Editor

64 Outdoor Types The experiential movement ushers in new consumer groups seeking Instagram-worthy outdoor adventures. By Ann Loynd

On the cover: Minnetonka wedge mules.

Levi’s overalls with tank by Alexander Wang, vintage headpiece.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

24 Trend Spotting From rose to perfs to mocs and every Spring ’17 trend in between.

By Ann Loynd

56 Great Danes Ecco marks its silver anniversary in the U.S., a legacy built on innovation, quality and comfort.

By Kathy Passero

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Caroline Diaco Publisher

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

Lauren Olsen Associate Editor

Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer Judy Leand Contributing Editor ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 135 W. 20th St., Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

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E D I TO R ’S N OT E Good

s. Evil

FIGHTING THE GOOD FIGHT ACCORDING TO COMIC book law, good always triumphs over evil in the end. Similarly, over the course of a 162-game baseball season, the cream always rises to the top. And legendary UCLA basketball coach John Wooden never talked about winning; rather, he espoused a relentless “pursuit of excellence” in all aspects of the game, promising that plenty of good (i.e. wins) would result.

While such good-will-win-out adages might give us solace, outcomes are never certain. And there isn’t much evidence that the good—in anything—is prevailing these days.

Take your pick: the weak economy, divisive politics, crumbling race relations, terrorism, coups, mass migrations, doping scandals...

Evil seems to be on a winning streak of late.

So much so that hiding under that proverbial rock is tempting. But hiding and, for that matter, building walls has never been the way to solve the world’s problems or keep evil forces at bay. The only way to do that is to fight the good fight. Stand up to the evildoers, because the alternative is a world gone terribly bad.

Evil’s relentless attack on good doesn’t always manifest itself in grandiose horrors and headlines. Often it involves a subtle chipping away at established practices. Cut a corner here to save a few cents on the dollar. Pull back on R&D because being average is more profitable than being good. Replace experience and talent because a neophyte will do the job (poorly) for much less. One of my favorite scenes in the movie Broadcast News is when Albert Brooks’ character says evil won’t look like a scary creature sporting a red pointy tail. Brooks says the devil will be “attractive…nice and helpful.” He’ll gain a position of power and influence and, while “he’ll never deliberately hurt a living thing…he will, just bit by little bit, lower our standards where they are important.”

Such evidence is all around us, be it biased journalists with no one vetting their accuracy, consumer products that are no longer built to last in what has become a disposable society, or—perhaps worst of all—a general lack of decorum and tolerance of different viewpoints that has turned society into a screaming match stalemate. No one wins and nothing good comes out of it. If we hope to give good a winning edge in this world, it starts by working

together. United we stand, divided we fall, right?

In that spirit, allow me to showcase some good being done in our corner of the world. Take this month’s feature marking the 25th anniversary of Ecco being sold in the United States (“Great Danes,” p. 56). This is a success story built on a relentless pursuit of trying to be the best shoe company in the world (substance), not the biggest (flash). The Scandinavian brand is renowned for its simplicity, functionality and adhering to stringent comfort and quality standards. Making a lesser product might be more affordable and easier to produce, but Ecco refuses to take that route. The company has built its retail partnerships to be equally long lasting. Particularly commendable has been the company’s willingness to adapt to American retailers’ needs rather than forcing a European business model on them, like so many other European comfort brands have tried—and failed—to do. Such flexibility is a refreshing contrast at a time when so many people seem unwilling to accept and respect the differences of others.

Another fine example of fighting the good fight—for 92 years and counting—is Hilton’s Shoes, subject of this month’s profile (“Dynamic Duo,” p. 50). The Bellingham, WA–based sit-and-fit stalwart is in its fourth generation of Hilton family members and, despite an onslaught of Goliath-sized competitors, Hilton’s good business practices continue to win the day. Many involve retailing 101 basics—like offering top-notch customer service. And while plenty of retailers claim they do this, it’s more lip service than fact if the general consumer consensus (think Yelp) is to be believed. The truth is, fighting the good fight requires hard work, skill and determination. Hilton’s tale of longevity serves as an inspiration to retailers, big and small.

Last but not least are the rules for business and life put forth by Rick Muskat, executive vice president and principal at Deer Stags Concepts. In our department, A Note to My Younger Self (“Father Knew Best,” p. 18), Muskat cites the lessons he learned from his father, who died suddenly some 30 years ago, as providing the framework that has enabled his surviving family members to keep the business alive. His advice is chock-full of best practices, along with a few tough love sentiments. It’s a good read.

Speaking of good, here’s to us all continuing to fight the good fight. It sure beats living in a world gone to the dark side.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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MULING IT OVER European trend watch: As temperatures rise, A-list ladies are going backless in mules that don’t skimp on style.

Photography by Melodie Jeng 14 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

It’s okay to be Blue

SCENE & HEARD

Model Behavior RACK ROOM SHOES has long practiced a policy of featuring real customers instead of professional models in its advertising campaigns, selected through the retailer’s annual Models Wanted Contest. Now, the chain is entering into a new phase of this ethos with the launch of The Real People Project.

The campaign is content based and aims to highlight the unique lives of its customers through storytelling. “We’ve been promoting the Models Wanted campaign for more than 12 years,” says Jan Mauldin, senior director of marketing for the Charlotte, NC–based retailer. “With the progression of digital channels, we wanted to evolve the program while still keeping our focus on our customers and their real life stories.”

Last fall, Rack Room Shoes asked its customers to share images of themselves through its social media channels and, after thousands of submissions, conducted a series of interviews. Unveiling the everyday lives of its customers—ordinary to extraordinary—four individuals have been selected for the store’s 2016 campaign (kicking off with Lauren, pictured).

“We’ve always been passionate about creating memorable and unique experiences for the people who shop in our stores,” Mauldin says.

DSW CEO Roger Rawlins presents a $75,000 check to Bikers Against Child Abuse.

DSW Revs its Charitable Engines

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DSW RECENTLY CUT a check for $75,000 as a donation to Bikers Against Child Abuse. The organization won the Columbus, OH–based retailer’s ongoing Shoe Lovers Care Leave Your Mark program, selected from eight finalists. (Runners up were awarded $5,000 each.) To date, DSW has donated $655,500 to 47 charitable organizations.

Bikers Against Child Abuse works with the mission of creating a safer environment for abused children by empowering youngsters not to feel afraid and lending support to those who have been injured. The organization was nominated by Stephanie Carvalho, a DSW store associate in Enfield, CT.

A N O T E T O M Y YO U N G E R S E L F

Brothers in Arms: Rick (center) Stephen and Michael Muskat, circa the mid 1980s.

FAT H E R K N E W B E S T Looking back three decades, Rick Muskat, executive vice president and principal of Deer Stags Concepts and FDRA chairman, reflects on the fatherly advice that has served as the backbone to the third-generation family business.

Dear Rick,

YOU LOST YOUR dad abruptly and suddenly. Not fair. But no one said life would be fair. It was such a shock, and you clearly didn’t know how to deal with the grief. The business was going downhill with a bunch of debt and a family to support.

Your accountant suggested seeing a bankruptcy attorney, but that just didn’t seem right.

All your life your father had been providing you with the fundamental lessons for living a wonderful life: • It is a beautiful world. Wake up every day grateful and don’t waste it.

Make the most of every situation. You don’t get the day back.

• Cherish all that you have, but keep your guard up. You don’t know what’s around the corner. No one said it would be easy.

• Life is wonderful, but no one said that it is fair.

He also provided valuable lessons for working in our family business: • Family is the most important thing, but the business comes first. It provides for the whole family.

• When in the office, we can disagree, argue and even fight, as long as we are advocating what we believe is right for the company.

• When leaving the office, we are father, son, brother, nephew, uncle, etc. Always keep those relationships sacred.

• Coming into the family business is not a life sentence. If you find it’s not right, you have to feel free to leave. It’s more important to be happy and fulfilled in your work. Conversely, if you are not right for the Company, we have to be able to ask you to leave. The Company provides for the whole family.

• Either way, we are still family. Nothing changes that.

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It’s time to apply those lessons! Along with your brothers, you will decide to work your way through this challenging time. You will pay all of your debts and re-build the company. You will do this together with hard work and as a family. While not the easiest way forward, history will show it was the right way for our family business.

Here we are 30 years later with a strong business and a wonderful, third-generation family company full of loyal and terrific people—many of whom have brought their second generations on board.

Notwithstanding the difficulties encountered, you have cherished every day doing what you love, with the people you love and in the city [New York] that you love.

Not too bad!!!

So here’s another bit of advice from 30 years of experience: You didn’t choose to work in the shoe industry, but you will find over these next decades what a wonderful industry it is. Make some time to get involved with Two Ten, FDRA and FFANY. You will help shape the future of the industry you work and thrive in. You will get the chance to work closely with the smartest and best people in the industry. And you can help “shoepeople helping shoepeople.” Trust me, you will be glad you did.

Lastly, cherish every day, even the tough ones. They are all part of what brings you forward in life.

Love, Thirty-years-older Rick Afterword: As I wrote this note, I found myself talking to both my younger self and also to my children, who are all in their 30s and a part of our family business. They never got to know their grandfather, but speak of him often. His beautiful philosophy on life and family survives in them.

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Game of Thrones

Clinton or Trump? Regardless of who the next leader of the free world may be, each will affect sourcing, sales and style in their own unique ways. By Lauren Olsen WOULD A DONALD J. Trump presidency usher in a wave of power ties? Might the pantsuit become de rigueur if Hillary Clinton becomes the first female in chief? If a wall gets built along the entire U.S./Mexico border and we enter into a trade war with China, odds are strong that it might have ( just a slight) impact on the day-to-day operations of the footwear industry. Similarly, if taxes are hiked to a level that would make Bernie Sanders blush, the average American consumer may continue to be scared shop-less.

Welcome to “The Decision,” except this time LeBron James’ basketball talents have nothing to do with it. This is much bigger than that. This is the mother of all decisions. At least it sure feels that way, considering that the process and media focus has been going on for what seems like longer than both of President Barack Obama’s terms in office. To be fair, the outcome has a far greater impact than several thousand Miami Heat fans feeling jilted or Cleveland fans finally basking in a major sports championship win after 50-plus years. Such a collective celebration was a big deal, but it’s got nothing on the pending decision to be made by millions of Americans this fall about who will become the 45th president of the United States.

Once that decision is finally made, will things calm down in ’Merica?

Will life get back to normal? (What is normal these days?) Might either Trump or Clinton usher in a new normal? What might that entail?

Will consumers feel more confident shopping because, as we all know painfully well, that hasn’t been the case of late? What exactly might “make America great again” look like beyond a slogan on a baseball hat? Would, for example, Clinton’s proposed New College Compact aimed at greatly reducing student loan debt unleash a torrent of spending that would have otherwise gone to pay off loans? Would policies be implemented to encourage companies to share profits with employees? Would minimum wage be raised? Or would Trump’s immigration reform and trade platforms really put the needs of working families first and revive the middle class, resulting in a better alternative?

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Of course, no one really knows the answers to these and many more questions.

Campaign promises are by no means guaranteed outcomes, nor are many of them even kept. Just ask some of the Brexit supporters who based their decision on promises that have been backtracked on faster than a Chunnel train.

UNCERTAIN TIMES “The only certainty we face, no matter who wins, is more uncertainty,” says Nikki Baird, managing partner at Retail Systems Research. “Whether it ends up being Trump or Clinton, the consumer’s confidence will be at the minimum,” offers George Valdez, author of The Ultimate Guide to Footwear Retail Business Profits. Thanks to rampant confusion about their respective policies, he says there is an overall mindset of perpetual uncertainty, which doesn’t bode well for the economy in the near term. “If you are uncertain on what the future holds, you tend to hold onto your money a little tighter, and this means holiday sales could take a hit,” Valdez says.

While the election is a distraction, Meghan Cleary, footwear trend and market expert at shoeareyou.com, believes the uncertainty in retail goes beyond that. In her opinion, it’s symbolic of much larger problems— like the transforming business model and changing consumer shopping habits. “Retail is already under siege,” Cleary says. “Until the election is decided, it’s just another uncertain thing on top of everything else, but it certainly doesn’t help.” David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock USA, believes uncertainty is always challenging for the consumer, and this pending election is no different. “Obviously the candidates stand apart on trade, so potential impacts are to be determined,” he says. “I think most people are in a bit of a wait-and-see mode.”

Some experts argue that making matters even more uncertain is a choice between what many view as a lesser of two evils. Deciding which candidate’s respective policies might do greater harm than good is not exactly a confidence

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builder. For example, Matt Priest, president whoever wins the White House will have a of Footwear Distributors and Retailers of significant influence on fashion. “Look at America (FDRA), says if Clinton increases the influence of Michelle Obama—and she taxes it will likely have a negative impact on was only the first lady,” Cohen points out. If shopping. “Lower the tax burden if you want to Clinton were to win, he predicts a lot more sell more shoes—when Americans have more conservative women’s dressing. “Those blue money in their pockets, it’s good for retail,” he suits are going to be very important again,” offers. Priest adds, however, if Trump slaps a 45 he laughs. Anand says the possibility of a percent tariff on Chinese-made goods, it could first woman president could bode well for devastate nearly the entire footwear industry women’s products in general. “There will (about 70 percent of shoes currently sold in this be a huge positive push,” he says. “Women’s country are made in China) as well as much of consumer confidence would just be a higher the American consumer goods economy. Thus, level of expression.” Schwister believes if — AMBER VANWY, the basis for Priest’s bleak outlook, regardless Clinton is elected there will be an excitement DIRECTOR OF MARKETING, TWISTED X of what voters decide this fall. “There is no real in women’s fashion that hasn’t been seen for silver lining right now,” he says. a long time. “This will be a huge moment in Indeed, Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at The NPD Group, notes that American history,” she says. “I think it would resonate deeply and lead to some both Trump and Clinton have high disapproval numbers. It involves lack of trust, great inspiration.” class, confidence—pick your shortcoming. “There is more focus now on their Cleary envisions the kitten heel—a go-to Clinton choice—will maintain its disapproval ratings than approval,” he says, adding, “There would be concern on popularity. (They have been popular with the current first lady, she adds.) Cleary both sides.” Amber Vanwy, director of marketing for the boot company Twisted would also expect Clinton’s “polished practicality vibe” to trickle down and adds that X, agrees that many Americans are not enthusiastically confident of either Clinton’s age group is a consumer that is overlooked in fashion, which might lead candidate. “Consumers will continue to be cautious to better options for that demographic. “There are so either way,” she says. many of these women in America, and they’re the only Others, of course, have stronger opinions on who ones with disposable income left—Millennials don’t might make a better president. Dana Schwister, have it,” she says. Although, Cleary notes, Clinton’s nopartner at Shoe Market, a Brooklyn-based boutique, nonsense vibe is similar to Millennial tastes in dressing feels that a Trump win would greatly affect her for who they are and what they’re doing instead of just business, given that at least 50 percent of her following the next hot trend.

What a Clinton or Trump customer base are tourists. “A Trump presidency Vanwy believes that both candidates could presidency might usher in on could put a severe dent into our business if he goes usher in a return to “luxe,” but it would manifest the fashion front. through with his anti-immigrant policies,” she says. differently. “With Hillary, I could see no-nonsense “It could really change the world’s perception of high power heels and suits for ladies with America and lead vacationers to choose other, more understated accents,” she says. “With Trump, I could SHE WINS open and friendly places to visit.” Schwister estimates see it revealing itself in over-the-top looks and the đƫ *0/1%0/ƫ that a Trump win could trigger a 20 percent decrease use of metal, specifically gold.” Given Trump has in her store’s sales. “I am terrified of what will happen a fashion line attached to his name and “the great đƫ %00!*ƫ$!!(/ƫ if Trump is elected,” she says. “I don’t believe that he promoter that he is,” Priest imagines his win would đƫ (1!ƫĨ ((ƫ/$ !/ĩ has the skill, ability or nuance to create allies and have an influence on fashion. Cohen says the focus foster an environment that can benefit people around for men’s footwear would likely become dressier and đƫ . 0% (ƫ .!//%*# the globe.” conservative, adding that Trump’s wife, a former đƫ /5ƫ+*ƫ (%*# Sahir Anand, vice president research and principal model, could strongly influence women’s fashions analyst at EKN Research, believes it will come down to as well. “This could result in higher heels and sexy who exudes the most confidence and is more business dressing trends,” he says.

HE WINS friendly. “From a consumer standpoint, confidence “You’re never going to see Melania [Trump] out is going to be higher if you have a pro-business and of a stiletto,” offers Cleary. It is hard to imagine đƫ +3!.ƫ0%!/ pro-middle class framework,” he states. “If you don’t the fashion-forward women surrounding Trump đƫ %*#0%,/ƫ * ƫ/0%(!00+/ have that, business suffers and so do consumers. (including Melania, Ivanka and Tiffany) not making The candidate who focuses on confidence-boosting major waves in fashion. “That kind of societal đƫ +( ƫĨ * ƫ.! Čƫ+"ƫ +1./!ĩ instead of confidence-killing will be in good standing.” upheaval can yield big changes in footwear—we’d đƫ !ƫ%*ƫ0$!ƫ probably see choices becoming more strident and đƫ %#ƫ+*ƫ (%*# THE FASHION FORECAST wild,” Cleary says.

Now, about those potential power ties or pantsuit Until then, the fashion, footwear and free worlds crazes. The one thing that appears certain is that anxiously await America’s big decision. •

“WITH TRUMP, I COULD

SEE IT REVEALING ITSELF IN OVER-THE-TOP LOOKS AND THE USE OF METAL, ESPECIALLY GOLD.”

The Politics of Fashion

22 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

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Cage Match Ghillie sandals: the gladiator sequel.

1. Splendid 2. Seven Dials 3. Gee Wa Wa 4. Sacha London 5. Rockport 6. Bos & Co.

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Holes in One

Perforated leather presents a warm-weather spin on classic men’s casuals.

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Gilded Age

The new gold standard is a subtler version of the winning metallic.

1. Blossom 2. Seven Dials 3. Keds 4. Joules 5. Thierry Rabotin

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Peep Show

A fall silhouette gets a chic spring makeover.

1. Rockport 2. Earthies 3. Tamaris 4. Blossom 32 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

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Knitting Factory

Woven uppers weave a new look in men’s kicks.

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Christina Stevens and Joe Hilton

Dynamic Duo Adhering to fundamentals their family introduced more than 90 years ago, the father-daughter team behind Hilton’s Shoes proves that providing the basics like great service and the right fit is a winning formula against all kinds of competitors.

By Kathy Passero

B

ELLINGHAM,WASHINGTON, HAS seen its share of storms over the past 92 years—no surprise for a city perched on the northwestern-most corner of the Pacific Northwest. And downtown stalwart Hilton’s Shoes has weathered them all.

But then Hilton’s is a rare breed: a family-owned independent footwear store that has also survived countless “storms” of retail—from the opening of the region’s biggest mega mall to big box discounters to national chains to the boom of Internet shopping—and come out thriving, with a third generation at the helm and a fourth learning the ropes. There’s no magic formula, says owner Joseph Crawford Hilton Jr., who has run the business founded by his grandfather (Joseph Hilton) in 1924 for the past 37 years. Hilton and his 24-year-

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old daughter, Christina Stevens (née Hilton), who supervises the store’s day-to-day operations, credits their shop’s success to simple principles: honesty, integrity, putting service first and knowing its core customer.

“We’ve always had a philosophy of incredible service, focused on ensuring that the shoe fits properly,” says Hilton. “We focus on getting customers the best fit for their foot. It’s amazing how many people just go with the same size they’ve always had, even when it’s too small. We don’t focus on size because you’ll get 10 different fits from 10 different companies.” Hence, Hilton’s store motto: Where the shoe fits.

“Hilton’s is one of the few true sit-and-fits in America,” says Juliet Bright, territory manager for Birkenstock USA. “Local podiatrists recommend the store to customers for proper fitting, and customers are loyal to them because they believe Hilton’s has their best interests at heart.” Birkenstock has been one of Hilton’s top brands since it was added to the mix in 1990.

John Franco, territory manager for Clarks, cites Hilton’s as a valued client for 27 years and counting. Particularly of note, he says, is how the two partners have grown up together over the years. “When we first

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started selling them, we had only a few items, like our Sunburst sandal,” Franco says. “Since then we have really broken down that barrier, and Hilton’s has been with us every step of the way adding our new styles to their mix.” Of late, Franco credits Stevens for introducing an updated merchandise vibe without alienating its current customer base. “Christina has made the store look a lot younger and inviting while keeping current customers happy,” he says.

A big part of putting smiles on customer faces involves making them feel

Nestled in the heart of Bellingham’s historic downtown district, Hilton’s Shoes is a destination for those who enjoy shopping and receiving personal attention.

good physically. “We train all of our employees in how to fit shoes properly,” explains Hilton, noting that many of his staff members have stayed with the store for as long as 30 years. “We reward them with commission, but we still have a relaxed approach. We never pressure customers just to make a sale,” he adds.

BELLINGHAM BASICS That laid-back style is a perfect fit for Bellingham, a metropolis of about 85,000 nestled between the Cascade Range and Puget Sound and dotted with scenic lakes and trails. A haven for hikers and outdoor types, it’s a place 52 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

where casual comfort reigns supreme.

“Bellingham is very down to earth,” Hilton says. “People don’t dress up much here.” He calls the local style “Northwest casual.” Bold avant-garde looks don’t tempt shoppers at his 2,500-square-foot shop. “We’ve learned to be wary of trends because our local customer is not cutting edge,” Hilton says. “If we jump on a trend too quickly, it tends to be a mistake.”

In fact, Hilton’s best-selling brands—Birkenstock, Dansko, Clarks and SAS—have been go-to brands for its casual-loving customers for years. Still, the shop continually adds newcomers to its shelves. “We’re always experimenting with new brands,” Hilton says, “and we carry a range of styles, from dress to athletic shoes.”

Stevens plays a key role in keeping the merchandise mix fresh. Having grown up in the store, she blends a keen eye for fashion with a native’s intuitive sense of what will resonate with Bellingham shoppers. Together, father and daughter shop trade shows and websites, deciding what to stock.

“My dad has let me take the lead on a lot of sales meetings, and it’s fun to pick out what I think will be the best-selling styles, then see if I’m right. Reps have told me I have a young, fresh eye and am good at picking out key styles,” Stevens says, adding, “I think that’s because I’ve been around shoes my entire life. As kids, my sister and I went to all the shoe shows with my parents and ate the candy out of showrooms. We even grew up with some of the reps we still work with today.”

Stevens says she and her dad enjoy friendly competition over whose picks will sell better, but she appreciates having a voice of experience around to weigh in. Some of the newer brands added to Hilton’s mix include Taos, Jerusalem Sandals and Cobb Hill. “I bring a younger vibe to the store and our customers have responded well, but my dad can tell me when we’ve been there, done that with a style that didn’t sell, so I don’t make the mistake a second time.”

Hilton isn’t the only one who’s been around the store long enough to remember past styles. Over the decades, Hilton’s has built up a loyal repeat customer base ranging from undergrads at nearby Western Washington University to senior citizens. “We know a lot of them by first name,” says Stevens. “They ask about our lives. We ask about theirs. We know what will work with their lifestyles and what won’t. They trust us because they know we want to make them happy.”

Andy Larson, sales representative for Dansko, shares that sentiment.

“Because they are a family business, they treat you like family—with respect and open dialogue,” he says. “That’s refreshing and consistent. They care about quality and about taking care of the customer and the community they live and work in.”

Still, there are challenges. “The biggest is when people come in after you have helped them for a long time, or just talked to them for awhile, and mention buying things online or going to one of our competitors,” says Stevens.

“Because this is my family business, I feel personally attacked, which I know is not their intention. Still, we do whatever we can to make them happy. Even if they don’t buy anything, if they’re offered amazing service, they’ll come back.”

Nowadays, about 80 percent of Hilton’s Shoes’ clientele is female. The majority of them are over age 40. But if Stevens has her way, that will start to skew younger soon.

“My number-one hope is to target a younger audience,” she says. “There aren’t many shoe stores in Bellingham. Instead of driving people in their 20s and 30s to shop online or go to the mall, I want to drive them to our store.

Most people I talk to around my age have never even heard of Hilton’s, and that upsets me. Anyone who is 40 or 50 or above says, ‘Oh, yes. I’ve been shopping there since I was a little girl’ or ‘my grandparents always shop there.’ I want everyone in Bellingham to know who we are. I want Hilton’s to be the first thought in people’s minds when they think shoes.”

Stevens and her twenty-something employees model the styles they think will appeal to a younger crowd. “I’ve also ordered sunglasses and am bringing in some beautiful leather bags for fall,” she says. “And I’ve started multiple social

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media accounts that I try to update daily because the younger generation always has a phone glued to their hand. I want to use that to my advantage.”

Though Hilton’s Shoes is just around the corner from its original location and next to the storefront it occupied when Hilton’s father owned it in the ’60s and ’70s, Hilton says his grandfather would hardly recognize his legacy today. The father-and-daughter team have modernized decor and created a permanent year-round sale room in the back that offers 10to 50-percent discounts and works well to clear out slow sellers. “Things have changed so much, my grandfather wouldn’t even understand the business,” says Hilton. “Even my dad has trouble understanding the type of shoes that are sold today compared to when he was in the business.”

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SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST Of course, design and technology aren’t the only major changes footwear retailers have seen over the decades.

“The biggest thing that impacted our store was when a major regional mall opened in the late ’80s,” Hilton recalls. Bellis Fair mall had a tremendous impact on downtown Bellingham, pulling shoppers away in droves, he recalls. The city’s proximity to Canada has long made it a prime location for national retailers hoping to lure Canadian shoppers south of the border.

“We’re in a unique situation because we’re 25 minutes by car from Canada,” Hilton explains. “We get an overabundance of national chains coming to our area—more than our population base can justify—because they know that just across the border there are millions of people. A lot of them have closed, and there’s been a constant rotation of smaller stores in and out of the mall, but as soon as one closes, another comes in. They keep trying.

“We persevered through that and gradually a lot of people came back to us because they don’t like going to a mall anymore. They prefer local independent stores, they appreciate our expertise and they like shopping downtown. So the fall in popularity of malls has helped us.”

These days, U.S.-based stores that depend on Canadian consumers are suffering because the unfavorable exchange rate is a disincentive, Hilton notes. “Canadians aren’t coming here like they used to, and that has really affected the mall negatively. Our store never depended on Canadian traffic. We depend on local traffic, so our business has been solid,” he says.

Hilton is hoping a similar plot will play out in terms of today’s most formidable competition, the Internet. Will online shopping’s popularity really wane eventually? “I don’t have a crystal ball, but that’s our hope,” says Hilton. “There’s a limit to how far the Internet can go. Men and women still want to shop. They want to stop, touch things and try them on. With footwear in particular, it’s important to be able to try it on and see how it looks on your foot.” Also helping matters in this regard is Hilton’s setting in Bellingham’s historic district. Clarks’ Franco describes the location as ideal: “It’s dotted with good restaurants and great shops. It’s the perfect place to stroll around and shop for an afternoon.”

That said, Hilton and Stevens have considered offering online sales through their website, but in the end they always have ruled it out. “In my mind, that’s a completely separate business,” he explains. “You have to hire extra staff to run it properly. Our business is solid enough that we don’t feel like we need to venture into that at this time, though we keep looking at it.”

Besides, Hilton adds, brands are starting to realize that Internet sales only go so far. “There are plenty of brands that feel they need the independent channel to stay viable. They’re trying to protect independent retailers as well as their own reputations from too much discounting on the Internet.”

Storms. Malls. National chains. Online discounters. Hilton takes it all in stride, just as his predecessors did. “Retail has always been a rapidly changing and challenging environment,” he says. “My advice is, just persevere.

Hang in there. Take care of your employees and your core customers, keep an eye on what’s happening so you can stay ahead of the game, and keep rolling with the times.”

“We’ve been around for 92 years and I want to be around for 92 more,” adds Stevens. “I want to do everything in my power to make sure we don’t go anywhere. The future of Hilton’s lies in my hands, and I have high hopes for it.” •

From the Shape collection by Ecco.

Great Danes

Ecco marks its silver anniversary in the States, a legacy built on design innovation, premium quality and supreme comfort. By Kathy Passero THE YEAR WAS 1991. The Gulf War ended, Nirvana But as countless other newcomers to America have kicked off the grunge movement with its groundbreaking found, success and acceptance weren’t instantaneous. Back Nevermind album and Danish shoemaker Ecco ventured then, Euro comfort wasn’t yet a buzzword, much less the into the U.S. market. Back then, Dave Quel was a manager massive category it is today. American shoppers weren’t for Track ’n Trail, a family-owned chain of shoe stores based used to European sizing, and Ecco’s prices (around $150) near Sacramento, CA, that was among the first to give the were considerably higher than other casual shoes of the brand a chance. day. Still, Ecco founder Karl Toosbuy had long dreamed “I have a vivid memory of the day we unpacked the first of becoming a player in the U.S. market—and the time felt Ecco shoes,” recalls Quel, now president of Ecco USA. “They right to introduce Americans to the brand’s Scandinavian came in metal boxes. I said, ‘What in the world is this? craftsmanship and aesthetics.

Shoes in a can?’ It was different from anything we’d seen “He loved America, with its vast and differentiated retail until that point. I took a pair out and tried them on, and landscape,” says Quel, who worked with Toosbuy for a was immediately blown away by the comfort. I instantly got number of years after joining Ecco in 1999 as a territory what they were about. Shortly after, the Ecco team came manager. (Quel steadily worked his way through the ranks Ecco USA President Dave Quel to our store, explained what makes an Ecco shoe so special of national sales manager, vice president of sales and COO and made evangelists of us all in terms of selling Ecco. And before being named president of Ecco USA in 2010.) “He 25 years later that’s still the formula we use.” thought, ‘If Ecco can make it in the U.S., we’ve made it as a brand.’”

It’s a winning formula by anyone’s standards. Ecco is now car“Right from the start, they worked hard to be a great partner,” remembers ried by leading U.S. retailers from coast to coast and has been worn Peter Hanig, owner of Hanig’s Footwear in Chicago, another pioneer when everywhere from pro golf ’s fabled Masters Tournament to the heartit came to stocking Ecco. “Not only is the quality, the comfort and the styling land’s iconic Mall of America, where the brand operates a flagship. strong, but they really helped us to develop the brand in the Chicago market 56 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

and make it profitable for us in terms of things like inventory returns.”

THE AMERICAN WAY

the markets where it does business. “We now have product people in the U.S. helping us translate the needs of the market back to our design team in Denmark,” Quel says, adding that the approach is helping Ecco to make steady progress among female fans.

From the beginning, Ecco execs realized that they couldn’t force the European business model on the U.S., says Quel. They would have to adapt to gain a place in the market. Give Ecco real credit here as HITTING ITS STRIDE many other brands—to this day even—try to pound Winning over women shoppers is far from the only their business model into this market, believing breakthrough the Scandinavian shoemaker has it’s the U.S. and not them that’s the problem. Ecco enjoyed during its 25 years of doing business in understood, from the very beginning, the art of the U.S. One milestone occurred unexpectedly in assimilating, and it’s paid off handsomely. “In the 2010 when pro golfer Fred Couples showed up for U.S., there’s more of a partnership between brands the Masters Tournament in Augusta, GA, wearing and retailers,” Quel observes. “The retailer partners Ecco golf shoes—sans socks, no less. The brand had with the brand. They take risks, promote the brand introduced its first golf line in 1996, after Toosbuy and validate it. In turn, the brand works to support played a round with CEO Dieter Kasprzak wearing the retailer with hands-on service, quality and another brand’s shoes and decided Ecco could do value, and weekly replenishment stock. In Europe better. Couples had a strong round in the tournaeven today, retailers buy nearly all their needs at ment and, as a result, got a lot of televised airtime. the beginning of a season, the wholesaler delivers

By Monday after the tournament finished, Ecco was it, then they see each other again in six months.” on the map among golfers. “Our phones rang off Toosbuy was careful to position Ecco as a prethe hook,” Quel remembers. “We were completely mium, high-quality Scandinavian brand at the unprepared for the explosion that happened after outset, focusing on select independents and prehe wore those shoes.” Today the brand is the world’s mium department stores—a distribution strategy fourth largest maker of golf shoes. that hasn’t changed much over the past 25 years, Building on the success of its golf shoes, Ecco says Greg Marchini, U.S. vice president of sales. introduced performance shoes suitable for trainEcco also provided its first American retail ing, running and walking, steadily expanding its partners with training that would turn those on customer base. As it did, Nordstrom expanded the sales floor into brand ambassadors. They the number of Ecco styles it carried, notes Robert educated them about the Ecco story: The brand Evans, the department store chain’s vice president is one of a handful of shoemakers that owns its and DMM of men’s shoes and kids’ shoes. In many process from start to finish, maintaining its own ways, the steady growth in fans among Nordstrom’s tanneries, factories and staff designers. It values customers mirrors the growth in acceptance and environmental, corporate and social responsibility popularity of Ecco in the U.S. Pro golfer Fred Couples sporting Golf Street in every step of the process. It doesn’t strive to be “We started by selling a few Ecco walking shoe Premiere hybrids; the new Shape campaign announcing a revolutionary comfort design in the biggest shoe company in the world, just the styles in the early ’90s,” Evans remembers. “Customers women’s heels; inside an Ecco flagship. best. To get that message across in the U.S., Ecco liked them because they not only looked good but reps offered retail clinics where they taught store they felt great. Ecco makes very comfortable shoes associates about the shoes’ unique features and leathers. They even brought in understandable styles, and the brand has been fast to move the customer a “walk machine” into stores that analyzed people’s feet and highlighted hot forward and evolve their shoes. We added dress shoes, Euro sneakers, boots, spots on the shoes they were wearing, then showed how Ecco shoes would outdoor and golf.” Evans adds, “Ecco is a great marketing partner because improve their comfort level by better distributing their weight. “It was truly they provide our stores with a dedicated merchandising and training team magical. You would go through one of the clinics and become a believer,” and they stock core shoes for us to reorder so we can keep them in stock.” recalls Quel. “When the people on the sales floor feel that passion for your Such compliments are a point of pride for the Ecco team, and nurturing brand, it gets passed on to the consumer.” its retail partnerships remains a top priority. “A lot of premium retailers in Within a few years, Ecco had built a loyal fan base among American men. the U.S. gave Ecco a chance, and for that, we will always be indebted,” says The brand sold a million pairs of shoes in the U.S. for the first time in 1997 Quel. “We’re a meaningful part of all these great independents, like Hanig’s, and successfully added men’s dress shoes to its casual offerings. American The Tannery in Boston, Tip Top Shoes and Harry’s in New York, Little’s in women, however, proved a more elusive quarry.

Pittsburgh, Ria’s in San Francisco and The Walk Shop in Berkeley, CA. We’re “It took us a while to learn that from region to region, country to country, also a relevant brand to premium department stores like Nordstrom and male customers are more similar than they are different, but female consumers Dillard’s, and that’s important to us.” have different tastes in different markets,” Quel explains. “What’s helped us make a breakthrough in the last five years is recognizing these differences.”

HEARING THE ECCO To get a better handle on the idiosyncrasies of women’s style preferences from These days, Ecco no longer uses catchphrases like Euro comfort. The brand place to place, Ecco is building design and branding infrastructure in each of doesn’t have to. People know who Ecco is and what it stands for. “Comfort is 2016 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 57

just in our DNA,” says Quel. “It’s baked into who we are. A women’s pump may not be as comfortable as a women’s casual shoe, but a women’s pump from Ecco is going to be the most comfortable one she can put her foot into.”

Speaking of pumps, Ecco’s sights for the future are set firmly on growing the female side of its U.S. business with the launch of a new collection of styled, heeled footwear this fall called Shape. The collection incorporates Ecco’s hallmark direct-injection process (DIP) that negates the need of glue or stitching and fits the contours of the foot beautifully. “It’s our most streamlined, feminine heel construction to date,” notes Marchini.

“In addition to the tremendous women’s growth potential in the U.S., we see significant potential in the sport lifestyle and outdoor lifestyle categories,” Marchini adds. In outdoor/sport, Ecco is launching the second generation of Gore-Tex Surround with Biom Venture and Ecco Cool 2.0 styles for Spring ’17. Meanwhile in golf, the brand is incorporating Gore-Tex Surround, Spydr-Grip soles and BOA enclosures to various Cage, Biom and Cool products.

THE ROAD AHEAD Looking to the future, Ecco is investing in learning more about its consumers through research and face-to-face interactions at its own retail shops. In fact, the growth of these owned and operated shops, albeit modest, has been among the biggest changes in Ecco’s distribution strategy during its quarter century in the U.S., says Marchini. “In 2016 and beyond, we’re creating a healthy, balanced portfolio of distribution points that allows consumers access to all of our product categories (women’s, men’s, sport, golf and leather accessories) as well as making shopping experiences seamless between the offline and online world.”

The goal, according to Quel and Marchini, is to get to know their fan base better so Ecco can not only design products that resonate with shoppers, but also engage them in a more personal manner and ultimately provide the kind of meaningful shopping experiences that build loyalty. Beyond that, “our positioning as a premium, high-quality brand driven by Danish design principles will not change,” Quel promises. “We will continue to be a super-premium brand that consumers respond to and a profitable brand for our retail partners.”

No matter what trials and triumphs lie ahead, Ecco will always strive to meet the high standards set by its founding father, Quel assures. And if Toosbuy were here to celebrate his brand’s silver anniversary in the U.S., would he be pleased with his team’s progress? Quel chuckles, “He’d say, ‘It’s good so far…but you can do better.’ And we will.” • 58 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

Ecco Innovation A RUNDOWN OF BREAKTHROUGH DESIGNS INTRODUCED OVER THE YEARS.

RULE NUMBER ONE of legendary shoemaker and Ecco founder Karl Toosbuy: “Always be open to improvements and new ideas.”

It’s been a hallmark of Ecco design always. The brand is constantly working on ways to make a shoe better—not just aesthetically, but how it feels on the foot. And one of the beauties of Scandinavian design is that Ecco’s shoes are never overbuilt or too technical looking. Simplicity, wearability and, of course, comfort are its leading design tenants. Here are some notable examples of that process that have enabled Ecco to become a leading brand in the U.S. —K.P.

1. In 2009, Ecco unveiled a new running concept dubbed Biom Natural Motion. The soles and footbeds are like a 360-degree mold of a foot, including every curve and nuance. Biom is constructed on an anatomically precise last created after scanning the feet of 2,500 athletes. Since its launch, the technology has expanded into other categories such as walking, hiking, fitness and golf.

2. The following year, Ecco launched Golf Street Premiere, revolutionizing the traditionally spiked footwear category. Fred Couples wore the hybrid shoe at the Masters Tournament in Augusta, GA, and played phenomenally well, showcasing the new concept didn’t hinder his game. The outsole, constructed from a durable, wear-resistant TPU material, consists of approximately 100 molded bars that boast 800-plus traction angles to provide superior grip in a wide variety of conditions. The added benefit of Ecco’s hybrid golf shoes is their style attributes—they wear and look as good on or off the course.

3. Last year Ecco introduced its first Gore-Tex Surround product called Cool. For years, the brand and Gore-Tex have collaborated on innovative designs that feature its waterproof technology across a range of styles. Specifically, Cool features Gore-Tex Surround technology, providing 360 degrees ventilation and breathability. The eye-catching design aspect is the holes on the side of the outsole to allow air to flow into the shoe trough. Next year, the next generation—Cool 2.0—will be launched.

4. This year, Ecco is launching another revolutionary design concept that modernizes high-heel comfort in the women’s dress category.

It’s called Shape, and it’s currently being shipped to the first retailers for fall delivery. While the idea of high heel comfort is not new, Ecco’s creative minds found a way of combining its direct-injection process (DIP) with an appealing, feminine look. DIP ensures that the liquid polyurethane (PU) is injected to shape an anatomically correct midsole and outsole. In addition, designers have separately attached a non-PU heel to give Shape products a contemporary and attractive aesthetic.

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NINE WEST HOLDINGS: ANNE KLEIN, BANDOLINO, EASY SPIRIT, NINE WEST / CALERES: NATURALIZER, DR. SCHOLL’S SHOES®, LIFESTRIDE, RYKÄ, SAM EDELMAN, FRANCO SARTO, VIA SPIGA, FERGIE FOOTWEAR, CARLOS BY CARLOS SANTANA / CAMUTO GROUP: VINCE CAMUTO, LOUISE ET CIE, JESSICA SIMPSON, BCBGMAXAZRIA, BCBGENERATION, ED BY ELLEN DEGENERES / LUCKY BRAND MARC FISHER FOOTWEAR: GUESS, G BY GUESS, INDIGO RD, IVANKA TRUMP, MARC FISHER, TOMMY HILFIGER, TRETORN // BENEFACTORS: CHARLES DAVID LLC: CHARLES BY CHARLES DAVID CHARLES DAVID / H.H. BROWN: BØRN, HERITAGE, ISOLÁ, KORK-EASE, SÖFFT, SOFTSPOTS / NEW YORK TRANSIT INC.: ANN MARINO BY BETTYE MULLER, BETTYE BY BETTYE MULLER NEW YORK TRANSIT, SPLENDID FOOTWEAR / WILL-RICH SHOE COMPANY LLC: ADRIENNE VITTADINI // DOUBLE PLATINUM: THE FOOTWEAR DIVISION OF GLOBAL BRANDS GROUP: AQUATALIA COACH FOOTWEAR / LEGEND FOOTWEAR / MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS / WOLVERINE WORLDWIDE / YALEET: NAOT FOOTWEAR // PLATINUM: BLOSSOM / CHINESE LAUNDRY / CCILU / CLARKS DANSKO / DEER STAGS/NOSOX / DONALD J PLINER / EASY STREET / KENNETH COLE NEW YORK / SAN ANTONIO SHOEMAKERS / SEYCHELLES / SKECHERS / TITAN INDUSTRIES: BADGLEY MISCHKA DAYA BY ZENDAYA COLLECTION / WOLFF SHOE COMPANY / VIONIC WITH ORTHAHEEL / VIDA SHOES: ANDRÉ ASSOUS, ESPRIT, NANETTE BY NANETTE LEPORE / WHITE MOUNTAIN SHOE OF THE DAY: AEROSOLES / BLOWFISH / CARTER’S / EARTH BRANDS / FILA / JOULES / MATISSE / MIA SHOES / NINA / SPRING STEP / SYNCLAIRE BRANDS: MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS KIDS / THE FLEXX USA QVC.COM: BBC INTL : POLO KIDS / CAPE CLOGS / YELLOW BOX // SPECIAL THANKS TO ZENDAYA FOR HER LEADERSHIP AND TO JOE OUAKNINE AND TITAN INDUSTRIES FOR THEIR SUPPORT. *Based upon supplier’s representations of value. No sales may have been made at this price. A public service announcement. Show dates, times, offers, and availability subject to change without notice. **Purchase price excludes shipping and handling charges and tax. © 2016 QVC, Inc. QVC, the Q, and the Q Ribbon Logo are registered service marks of ER Marks, Inc. and QVC,Inc.

FOOTWEAR FORUM

S H O W R Retailers gripe about it, and pretty much all are victims.

Here’s some in-the-trenches advice on what can be done to alleviate and counter showrooming. By Ann Loynd

Lester Wasserman, manager, Tip Top Shoes, New York, NY The Scene: It’s definitely more of an issue than it was two years ago; you see far more people shopping on their phones. We’re actively servicing them, sizing them, making suggestions. Yet younger consumers are so not used to what we do that they take it for granted. Sometimes they’re doing it for price, other times because they want a color we don’t have. But business is hard enough. People shouldn’t be using us as a showroom. It lacks all morals.

The Solution: We always hang our hat on the fact that you’re simply not going to get the level of service we provide anywhere else. But if we have a showroomer, our approach is to just be polite and end it as quickly as possible in the least offensive manner.

Nicole Leinbach Reyhle, founder, Retail Minded Truth Hurts: Retail isn’t what it used to be, which means that traditional expectations of how consumers should shop cannot be expected. Online influences often are what brings shoppers into physical stores in the first place.

And if showrooming is a problem, consider why customers aren’t purchasing from you. Is your store experience one they can’t resist? Do you engage them so well that they want to return again and again? Is your product assortment ideal for your target audience? Or do you need to reconsider all these things and strengthen your overall store expectations?

Roll Out the Red Carpet: Begin by strengthening your brands, customer and retail connections. Using social

60 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

media, email, text messages, etc., connect the brands you sell to your target customers often. Additionally, embrace red carpet customer service, deliver outstanding in-store experiences and offer unmatched consumer engagement. Free shipping can’t match stellar customer service and experience no matter how hard online merchants try to convince consumers otherwise.

Combined with great products and the benefit of being a physical storefront, you will soon forget showrooming is an issue since you’ll be too busy strengthening your customer service expectations.

Gary Weiner, president, Saxon Shoes, Richmond, VA The Onus: If a customer is in our store, they are a shopper and potential buyer.

If we have the product they want in stock, it usually leads to a sale. But if we don’t, it’s our fault.

Kill them with Kindness: If we come across a definite showroomer, it’s our job to turn that customer into a sale.

We suggest getting the item they are looking at while they are in stock. But you never know for sure if they are showrooming, so all you can do is be pleasant and provide exceptional service. There has been and will always be showroomers. A long time ago, we used to just call them shoppers!

Bob Phibbs, CEO, The Retail Doctor Reality Bites: When someone pulls out a phone and scans something, you instantly think they are looking for a lower price. When it comes to Millennials, that’s probably the case.

However, they could just as easily be asking a friend what they think of that

O O M I N G style. Or, they are snapping a photo to consider whether to buy it later, or are getting information because the service in the store is so poor. Customers shouldn’t have to put up with bad service when they’ve made a trip through traffic, weather, found a parking spot…Either respect the fact they chose to come to your store in the first place and service them exceedingly well, or prepare to be a showroom for retailers who make shopping convenient and fun, not work.

Bite Back: You can’t just ask, “What size do you need?” and then go in the back, see if you have it and then either present it or tell the customer you don’t have what they want. That isn’t the customer’s fault. Provide an exceptional experience to your shoppers—develop a rapport, use a Brannock device and position yourself as an expert.

George Valdez, author and footwear retail expert Mind Your EEEs: Engage, educate and entertain. Your staff must engage.

“Can I help you?” is the worst thing to ask a customer. You must be more conversational so you can connect. That leads to education—explain the features and benefits. Everybody thinks they’re selling something someone needs. The only thing we need is water, food and air. Everything else is a want. You have to give them what they want. And always entertain. Treat them as a friend in your home. It’s the principle of reciprocation: We’ve bonded, I’ve learned a lot and I wouldn’t want to buy that online. Lastly, hire the personality and teach the skills.

Denise Lee Yohn, author, What Great Brands Do What Comes Around: Reverse showrooming, or “webrooming,” wherein customers research products online and then go to a store to purchase, is growing. According to a Harris poll, 69 percent of consumers webroom, while only 46 percent showroom.

Be the Source: Retailers must accept this behavior as a given and, rather than getting upset, embrace it and integrate it into the customer experience. Price is one piece of information. Details about features and materials, styling suggestions and care instructions are examples of other information customers seek. So make your website a vital source of information about the products you carry and, in-store, deliver personalized service, which is more valuable to many customers than saving a few dollars online.

Catherine Boardman, owner, Shoes On King, Charleston, SC It Happens: We see showrooming on a regular basis, and have seen a slight increase in the past year. But we are thankful that the Charleston community engages in an ongoing campaign pushing shop local.

What Happens: We quietly verify and take showrooming on a case-by-case basis. We price match if an item is not turning and do not match if it’s a bestseller. Also, the customer’s approach and attitude factors in on our decision.

SHOW ME THE NUMBERS 67% of brick-and-mortar shoppers check their smartphones in-store to find better pricing and 62% ultimately buy online at a lower price.

—Anderson Robbins Research The apparel and accessories industry incurs a 43% showrooming rate while the consumer electronics industry faces a 63% rate and jewelry and watches incur a 16% rate. —Statista

Shopper satisfaction is declining in stores up to 15% a year.

—IPG Media Lab 57% of showroomers are willing to purchase from brick-and-mortar stores that have a permanent price matching policy in place, and when consumers were asked what would keep them from showrooming, 84% cited instore sales and discounts.

—Harris Interactive

Mark Jubelirer, president, Reyers Shoes, Sharon, PA Pulling No Punches: I call showrooming “price jacking,” and it angers me.

While experts say if you can’t compete on price, then offer better service. But service doesn’t count for much these days. The consumer is now the expert.

She knows what she wants and can buy it on her phone. And if it doesn’t fit, she sends it back for free and they’ll send another pair—quick. She can have it on her porch tomorrow, or even this very afternoon. Experts say to offer a range of sizes, as well. But that doesn’t really matter as much, either.

Few brands produce a broad size range—it’s a mediums-driven landscape, where narrow feet slip and wides pinch. The meaning of “fit” has since been lost on generations of new consumers.

Waiting Game: Thanks to MAP pricing policies, showroomers will eventually discover that they can’t find cheaper prices elsewhere. While they might find a size or color that I’m missing, they can allow us to special order it for them. In the meantime, our customers will continue to find their loyalty to us rewarded with competitive prices and superb service. And for those shoppers meandering around our store searching their phones for a better price, they might as well be playing Pókemon Go. •

2016 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 61

THIS JUST IN

NATTY BOYS The new European street style is decidedly untailored with a dose of true grit (no shirt required).

Photography by Melodie Jeng 62 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

Dansko, Dansko and the Wing Design are all trademarks of Dansko, LLC. Š 2016 Dansko, LLC.1.800.326.7564.

Contact your sales rep to preview Spring 2017 or visit us at OR booth #23037 or FN Platform booth #82316

The experiential movement ushers in new consumer groups seeking Instagram-worthy outdoor adventures.

BY A N N LOY N D

The Outdoor Types

Getting one with nature à la Astral.

ORE AND MORE, Americans are choosing to eschew material things in favor of adventurous experiences. From Millennials looking to bolster their Instagram feeds to Boomer-aged retirees checking off their bucket lists, hashtag-wanderlust is a viral epidemic of a healthy kind.

This experiential movement plays nicely into the hands of the outdoor industry because if you’re going to Snapchat from the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, you better have the proper footwear to make it there. Out of this shift, several key consumer target demographic groups—outdoor types, if you will—have emerged: the Millennial experiential traveler, the Boomer weekend warrior, the hard-core adventurer of all ages, the stand-up-paddle yogi and the urban jungle dweller.

For many of these consumers, status is earned not by what you possess but by what you do. “It’s really about the experience. That’s a part of this larger shift to modern outdoors,” says Erika Gabrielli, director of marketing for Teva. “Now, it’s not about what’s in your garage but about what you did in the outside world.” Secondly, today’s outdoor lifestyle consumers are looking for versatility to get from trail head to boat launch (or from

64 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

museum to trendy restaurant). “The common thread is approachability.

They’re looking for footwear that’s performance-oriented but stylish,” says Colin Butts, director of marketing for Chaco.

Another notable takeaway from the experiential movement is that such performance-oriented footwear goes hand-in-hand with brick-andmortar retailing. “Smaller, in-market shops are the cornerstone of the community and have established themselves not only as a place to buy gear but a place to learn about their surroundings,” explains Joe Peters, director of marketing at Vasque. “You’ve got that travel knowledge that exists in specialty retail that’s hard to find in other places.” And since specialty footwear is typically a bigger investment, the ability to present and explain these technical benefits face to face is another in-store advantage. “Our consumers are constantly planning their next trip,” says Kelly Ballou, director of global marketing at Merrell. “They’re investing in footwear, and it can be an expensive purchase. They want pieces that are really versatile.”

Now let’s meet our outdoor types. We asked the experts to hone in on whom these shoppers are (their likes, dislikes, M.O.s, etc.) and how best to reach each one.

Teva: reach wherever your beach may be.

MILLENNIAL EXPERIENTIAL TRAVELER “There’s a lot of talk about this growing segment,” says Vasque’s Peters about the Millennial takeover, and for good reason. “This group spent $200 billion in 2014. They’re out of college with newly discretional income and traveling.”

In an attempt to grab a slice of that big pie, brands are reaching out through this group’s social mediums of choice: Instagram and Snapchat.

“When these folks go on vacation, it’s [often] legitimately to capture content for their personal feeds,” Peters notes. Merrell’s Ballou concurs that this group spends a ton of time online, which is why the brand relies heavily on ambassadors—athletes and explorers—to generate content for Merrell’s blog and social media channels. “Facebook is skewing a little older,” she says. “We’re using that more for straight-up product advertising, where Instagram is speaking to that outdoor lifestyle consumer.”

Whether it’s hiking in the Rockies or camping at Coachella, Millennials are willing to spend on the appropriate shoes.

“These are people that don’t hesitate to pay $300 for a pair of boots,” Peters says. “But they have that one-time buy mentality, which is helpful for us because our stuff lasts really long.”

While willing to spend, this consumer expects a lot in return. “The Millennial explorer wants new technology—GoreBoomer-approved Tex surround, lightweight, easy to pack, styles from Vasque, Teva and Jambu. comfortable,” explains Adidas Outdoor

66 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

Managing Director Greg Thomsen. For Spring ’17, the brand is introducing the Terrex Fast GTX Surround, a high-tech hiking boot that features Gore-Tex waterproofing and windproof protection. “It’s a very technical shoe,” Thomsen says.

Versatility as well as authenticity is key for this demographic. “They continue to harken back to the classics,” offers Thomas Bates, president T.B. Phelps, adding, “I credit Millennials with the resurgence of domestic manufacturing.” Bates projects the brand’s Original Handsewn moc and genuine American Elk Chelsea boot to be a hit with this group next spring.

“They want to be a part of that history of American footwear,” he says.

That authenticity links back to Merrell’s use of ambassadors. “It’s not coming from the brand, but through their voices,” Ballou explains. She adds that when this consumer is packing for a trip, versatility is key.

“They’re going to bring something for outdoor performance, like a hiking boot, and they’re going to bring one really versatile sandal.” Suitable for a hike to dinner to cultural district are the brand’s new Downtown men’s sandal and Around Town women’s sandal. “They can do one of these more pedestrian hikes to see a historic landmark, and then they can wear it into a restaurant in the evening,” Ballou says.

BOOMER WEEKEND WARRIOR Versatility is an important factor among the older set as well. “[Boomers] aren’t limited to just Nordic hikes or treks. Rather, it’s the adventures that happen every day,” says Jambu Marketing Director Yetzalee Mazza.

“This consumer is wiser, able to travel and experience life, but she’s all about making sure every day is a special moment.” Gio White, marketing manager for Taos, agrees: “Many of these consumers are introduced to us because they need comfortable travel shoes for their trip to Europe, etc., but then that converts them year-round.”

Let’s not forget the girth of this demographic either at 70 million-plus and the fact that many are just entering into their frequent traveler years.

“This Boomer traveler is a big area of growth, especially for apparel and

Hard-core offerings from Adidas and Oboz.

footwear,” Adidas’ Thomsen says. “They like simple style, maybe a little retro, but not too flashy.” He cites its Cap Rock walking shoe as hitting that mark. The low-cut style comes with or without Gore-Tex in tonal colors and solid rugged uppers. “It’s something that you wear with jeans around town and not look too outdoorsy,” he says. “But if you happen to want to go up a trail, they have great lug soles and performance.”

Carl Blakeslee, creative director for Portland Product Werks, makers of Woolrich footwear, says this target customer is not one to overlook. “The Boomer is older, but one we see growing,” he says. “This consumer constantly seeks adventure, and travel is a big part of that.” Blakeslee says that translates at Woolrich to styles that are easily packable, all-terrain, all-activity and, most of all, with a “distinct and tight vision on versatility and wearability.” For example, Woolrich is debuting a sandal line that features a new EVA-based foam technology resulting in Tempurpedic-esque comfort without the smelly side effect of wet Polyurethane.

Blakeslee has been wear-testing the sandals all summer and reports they have exceeded his expectations on how comfortable a sandal could be. It’s a good thing, because comfort is paramount among this consumer.

“It’s all about the footbed,” confirms White, adding that Taos will debut new canvas sneakers with built-in comfort and arch support as well as expand its cork footbed Trulie sandal collection. Teva’s Gabrielli cites the brand’s new Livia sandal, part of the Terra-Float

collection, as featuring ultra-light comfort that this group demands.

Those brands that connect with this audience usually retain them. Boomers, if nothing else, tend to be a loyal bunch. “These folks initially bought our boots back in the early ’70s when we were the dealer on college campuses,” Peters says. “We kind of followed them along.” Vasque is introducing the Breeze 3 for Spring ’17, a hiking boot that Peters says delivers “out-of-the-box comfort.”

Facebook appears to be the medium of choice to reach Boomers. “Facebook is her pathway to what’s happening in society but also to keep up with her relatives,” says Mazza. “We’re also connecting with her on programs she watches, like on the Hallmark channel and Food Network.”

HARD-CORE ADVENTURER Compared to the sheer size of the Boomer and Millennial categories, the hardcore adventurer consumer may seem like a sliver. But this consumer’s approval is critical for overall product and brand validation. “We look to this consumer to find—and define—the edge,” Blakeslee says. “They are pushing the envelope, revealing new insights to problem solving and design.” For example, Woolrich has been experimenting with adventurists on a new technology that infuses fabric into a rubber outsole for maximum traction when wet. “Those pieces of fabric poke through the rubber; it looks like

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every activity,” Thomsen says, adding, “We work with guide groups to get that message out.”

Boo Turner, spokesperson for Oboz, says light weight and durability are key factors for this consumer. She cites the brand’s Crest Low and Crest Mid boots for men, featuring an unstructured mesh upper to save on weight with a fullcoverage outsole. And while Oboz’s footwear is equipped to hike the Appalachian Trail, Turner says the brand doesn’t want to discriminate or intimidate casual wearers. “[Oboz] has established a great program of 22 ambassadors from their Climb any mountain mid-20s to 60s,” she says, notwearing Oboz. ing, “It’s a populist approach.”

The ambassadors’ adventures range from backpacking in steel belts in a tire,” he explains. “We added it to all Chile to city hikes outside of Los Angeles. “They of our sandals for Spring ’17. It’s pretty different.” reach a much broader audience through social Along those lines, Adidas is introducing its Scope media,” Turner adds. “Several are guidebook authors hiker with Stealth rubber lug outsoles that are sticky who spend 300 nights a year outside. That pool of and can go seamlessly from rock to trail. “Those shoes people really speaks to who the Oboz consumer is.” have all the traction, waterproofing and support for The brand’s strategy appears to be working, as >95

Over 1 billion people have comfortably walked the earth in shoes made with Jones & Vining components.

Lasts

At Jones & Vining (J&V), we don’t make lofty promises. Or outrageous claims.

Instead, we work closely with footwear designers and developers like you to bring your most inspired ideas to life. For more than 85 years, we’ve delivered quality, made-to-order lasts and components that are proven where it matters. During development. On the production line. And in comfortable shoes worn by more than a billion people.

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Insoles

Midsoles

Outsoles

Yoga approved: Teva, Adidas and Woolrich.

W H AT ’S S E L L I N G

Outdoor Specialty

casual styles from brands such as Birkenstock, Reef and Toms.

Smith notes that the average tenure for its salespeople is 12 years, and some staffers have been around for as many as 40.

“You don’t get that in retail,” he says. “It certainly made it easier when we bought the shop that we already had great staff.”

Smith has been instilling the same practices that have worked at the shop for nearly 50 years: not to just sell to customers, but to educate them. “And with that education, we sell,” he says, adding that the approach garners loyalty. “We have knowledge and experience,” Smith stresses, noting that employee group outings to ski or climb is common. “Our biggest competitive advantage is that we have the tenure to prove it,” he adds. —Ann Loynd How was your first year in business? Really busy and really short. I can probably count on two hands the number of days that I haven’t been in the shop. But that’s a good thing. We bought the shop out of a passion. It would be great to get on the rock and start climbing, but we knew when we bought [Mountain Chalet] that we had to get our heads down and get in it.

How has business been this year? It’s been good. We’re up from last year. Winter is definitely about skiing and, while we had a really warm March, May was incredible. We sold eight times what we normally sell in ski equipment in that month.

What’s the best brand you’ve added into the footwear mix recently? Garmont, a handmade Italian brand. They make approach, hiking and mountaineering shoes. The quality is unbelievable.

MOUNTAIN CHALET Colorado Springs, CO HEN HUSBAND-AND-WIFE team Jim and Elaine Smith bought Colorado Springs specialty shop Mountain Chalet last year, they were investing in quite a bit of history. Said to be the oldest independent shop in Colorado, Mountain Chalet has been serving its community since 1968 and is housed in an old hotel, circa 1900. (The building was once home to those seeking fortune during the Gold Rush.) Times have changed, and the region’s new gold is its proximity to Pikes Peak and the Southern Rocky Mountains, making Colorado Springs a mecca for outdoor sports enthusiasts spanning weekend warriors to hard-core adventurists.

Describing Mountain Chalet as a “full-blown outdoor shop,” Jim Smith says it attracts all outdoor types as well as plenty of tourists. “We get climbers, mountaineers and folks who were hard-core-something’s in their prior life, but are still doing it in an easier way,” he says. “It’s really surprising to have that much [customer] diversity.”

With an extensive footwear collection comprised of bestsellers like Oboz, La Sportiva, Hoka One One, Chaco and Keen, the Smiths and their staff, have the selection—and the know-how—to service all of their customers wants and needs, be it hardcore gear from the likes of Five Ten and Asolo to 70 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

What’s the most effective way to reach your customer? Right now, the majority of our efforts are focused on two things: the web (social media, our email list and website) and we also do workshops on a monthly basis. We have people come into the shop and talk about their experiences and offer knowledge, like how to get into backcountry skiing. We relate to [our customers] by educating them throughout those various pursuits.

What makes your consumer unique compared to other parts of the country? We have a really good basis of folks that enjoy what they do. It’s a lifestyle for them, part of their culture. Our customers get it, and we rally around that. Boulder, Denver…they tend to get a lot of accolades, but Colorado Springs has all kinds of skiing, climbing, hiking and backpacking within a short distance. It’s fun to watch people who come here for the first time.

Everyone knows each other, and they’re all trying to help each other out.

What’s the biggest challenge facing your business? The Internet and the pricing thereof is a challenge for us. The best way to combat against that is to be front-of-mind and do the best we can to educate our customers and provide the level of service they expect. Working with vendors who have strong MAP policies has become an important part of the equation as well.

What’s your fastest-growing customer segment? We’re getting a lot of folks who haven’t been in the shop before. Reaching out through those various channels and getting our name out there seems to be working. I’m getting some folks who have lived in the Springs for 10 to 20 years and didn’t know Mountain Chalet existed. Our loyal customers continue to be loyal, and we’re gaining new customers, and their sports interests are varied.

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S P R I N G ’ 1 7 P R E V I E W: K I D S ’

Power Play S

TATEMENT SHOES ARE creating a groundswell in children’s fashion. In response to the movement toward more sophisticated apparel (the “mini me” trend), footwear is serving as a bastion for fashion impunity and unbridled creativity.

“With the influx of sportswear for kids as a whole, shoes and

Nine West Kids

ALL THAT GLITTERS

“Kids have a unique sense of style, and they aren’t scared of wearing loud shoes,” says Maddison Ek, Vans merchandising manager for kids’ footwear.

Fittingly, glitter looks to be a major theme for next spring. From pewter to pink, glitter provides an instant pop of color, brimming with self-expression. “It’s about wanting to make shoes that appeal to a kid’s interests, not what their mom would think was cute or what their older siblings are wearing,” explains Ek. Native is also on the glitter trail for next season. Dominique Morrisset, global marketing director, says the brand will continue to offer a “Bling Treatment,” or all-over glitter, for select styles.

She adds that it comes in a range of colors designed to appeal to boys and girls. But the choice is up to them, she notes. “We don’t want to tell anyone that they can or can’t wear a particular colorway because it’s a ‘girl’ or ‘boy’ color,” Morrisset says.

Native

72 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

accessories are a way to keep things youthful and fun when apparel is getting very adult-like and clean,” reports Erin Rechner, senior kidswear editor for the trend agency WGSN. So buyers be on the lookout for lots of glitz and glam for Spring ’17 as kids’ footwear fashions answer the bell and take center stage. —Emily Beckman

Minnetonka x Free Range Mama

Nina

CHASING RAINBOWS Rainbows are trending on everything from cakes and ice cream to hairstyles and lattés, according to WGSN’s Rechner (not to mention flags). With pride politics standing on a higher platform than ever, the increase in rainbows has become a fashion-forward, as well as symbolic, statement.

“I do think Gay Pride is a major factor behind the rainbow collections,” says Megan Linke, founder of Lili Collection, a madein-the-USA collection launched in 2014. “I love that brands are communicating and showing their support through clothes and accessories,” she adds.

The rainbow craze is influencing purse shapes, sock details and footwear. While it’s a sign of the times, the rainbow also harkens back to fashions of the ’60s and ’70s. “We have noticed a huge shift back to ’70s fashion and are playing more into iconic looks from that era,” says Ek. “The rainbow prints we used in our Kids Classics assortment were actually pulled straight from the Vans archive.”

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S P R I N G ’ 1 7 P R E V I E W: K I D S ’

Livie & Luca

Melula

ART PROJECT Kids’ footwear designers have found perfection in imperfection—channeling the innocent beauty of watercolor splashes and scribbled textures. “We’ve handdrawn squiggly lines and polka dots and created our own custom prints that really give our Georgie sandal charm,” says Mitzi Rivas, owner of Livie & Luca.

“It beckons all who see it to smile and remember that it’s the little things that bring the most joy.”

Similarly, Melula’s spring collection incorporates lots of color in a mixture of analog pattern designs—handmade and printed. “The pattern is a mixture of art and design, aiming at nonfigurative expressions,” explains Co-founder Louise Moellermark, adding, “It’s the same processes children use when playing with colors.”

SOLE DESIRES Once considered strictly a utilitarian aspect of footwear design and largely an afterthought, outsoles are taking center stage in the form of bright colors and bold patterns. Drawing attention to unconventional areas of the shoe adds another talking point for a potential sale, experts say.

“Athletically speaking, I think advances in technology have led to a shift in focus toward more innovative outsole design,” says Elizabeth Natola, BBC Intl.’s vice president of design. “Technology now allows designers to 3-D print outsoles and not have to rely on mold makers to execute their vision.” Due to the quick turnaround time of 3-D printing, Natola notes that it has allowed designers to get more creative in their approach to outsoles. An early pioneer of this technology was the Yeezy collection by Adidas, which surely has had an influence across the footwear spectrum.

Florsheim

Cole Haan

BRIGHT IDEAS Neon colors and kids’ fashion go together like America and apple pie. This season shows no shortage of high-wattage colors across a range of silhouettes for both boys and girls.

Saturating styles from sneakers to sandals include fluorescent hues of pink, orange, yellow and green.

“Neons definitely downtrend and then resurge in popularity, but they are always a good go-to for infusing some excitement into a line when it comes to children’s footwear,” says Natola. “Either as a pop color or an all-over upper color, neons remain an important trend that buyers and kids alike gravitate toward.”

The design team at BBC Intl. deems the most prominent neon hue for next spring to be a cross between coral and orange. Or, as Natola has dubbed it, “Corange.”

Nike has been at the forefront of popularizing this particular color and the neon trend as a whole, using many supersaturated pastels on running, soccer and lifestyle product. Natola agrees that the athletic/lifestyle styles is where the neon trend appears most relevant. To kids’ delight, some designers, like Akid, have amped up the neon look with spunky Jackson Pollock–inspired splatter designs. >91

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Restricted ghillie sandal, skirt overalls by Maje, Kobi Halperin shirt, vintage crown.

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Coolway flatform espadrilles, denim jumpsuit by Karen Millen, Hobbs London coat, vintage hat.

Opposite page: Platforms by Gee Wa Wa, for Love & Lemons bra with Levi’s overalls, Kobi Halperin coat.

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Above: Seven Dials peep-toe bootie, boat shoes by Sebago. Right: Baretraps slides. Elie Tahari dress, Halston Heritage shirt, vintage broach and hat.

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Easy Spirit wedge sandal, peep-toe pumps by Joan Oloff. Opposite page: Vintage dress.

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All Black denim sneaker, Elie Tahari dress with Whistles silk pants, vintage earrings used as hairclips.

Opposite page: Mule by Marion Parke, dress by Elie Tahari, Hobbs London necklaces.

Fashion Editor: Ann Loynd; stylist: James M. Rosenthal; hair and makeup: Matthew Sky/Next Artists; model: Tayla/ Fenton Model Management; still life photography by Joseph Pluchino. Shot on location at the L.I. Livestock Co. 89

EDITOR’S PICKS

SIS-BOOM-BAH! Decorativ e p om p o m s ad d a cheer y kick to flat s.

Fulya Cerit

Sacha London

D E S I G N E R C H AT

PERLA FORMENTINI AND Bianca Tse, lead designers of the new Italian women’s luxury brand, Perla Formentini, bonded over a shared upbringing in the shoe industry as second-generation manufacturers. “You could say shoes are in our blood,” laughs Formentini, adding, “We love fashion and have always wanted to create a collection for women like ourselves.”

The all-women team (Formentini and Tse work with two other female designers) understands the struggle for ladies today to balance family, work and leisure and wanted to design a collection that could seamlessly take the wearer from one task to the next. The duo describes this woman as stylish, confident and (often) urban-dwelling between the ages of 25 and 45, or “anyone who is this age stylistically.”

The brand debuted last spring with a collection of chic flats, heels and sandals available on perlaformentini.com and through a tight group of boutiques. Continuing along these lines for this fall, the brand will unveil a line of glittery booties, man-styled loafers, snakeskin pumps and block-heeled Mary Janes. Never slowing down, Formentini and Tse are currently in development for Spring ’17, and reveal that the collection will take last year’s selection to the next level in daring materials and playful colors inspired by the brand’s home base in Marche, Italy. —Ann Loynd Where do you look for inspiration? Perla Formentini: The Italian landscape’s colors and architecture. For [next] summer, we were inspired by the colors in the hills of the Ligurian Coast and the chunky, colorful accessories ladies wear on the beach.

What’s your design signature? Bianca Tse: A timeless silhouette with design details that suit a variety of occasions and wardrobes.

How is Italian design influencing the American market? BT: We 90 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

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see the American market having a growing appreciation for Italian-made shoes. While we love the practical and sporty American sensibility, Italian designs tend to be more feminine and decorative. We like to fuse all of these elements into our brand.

What is the biggest challenge facing footwear designers today? PF: It’s not easy to find good craftsmanship and factories nowadays. We are lucky to have our own factories in Marche, Italy, with a deep knowledge in shoemaking.

What do you find most rewarding? BT: The collection is created with a variety of design details. We find it most rewarding

when customers notice them and appreciate those elements. It’s also very satisfying when customers comment that our shoes are very comfortable and can be worn all day.

Who is your fashion icon? BT: Shoes are the artistic support of daily life, and Zaha Hadid is one of the great architects that we draw inspiration from. PF: Amal Clooney.

What celebrities would you like to see wear Perla Formentini? PF: Jennifer Lawrence, Natalie Portman and Halle Berry.

What is your motto? BT: Live life, and be fearless in celebrating femininity.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY J O S E P H P LU C H I N O

PERLA FORMENTINI

S P R I N G ’ 1 7 P R E V I E W: K I D S ’

continued from page 75

Lili Collection

ZOOTOPIA Leopard print is a perennial kids’ fave, and Cape Clogs Founder Pamela Irving believes it will be on the prowl again next spring. “Leopard just never goes out of style,” she affirms.

Designers have also stepped beyond the feline family next season. It includes a menagerie of new animal skin themes—from cow print to Dalmatian spots—and in traditional as well as 3-D designs.

BBC Intl.’s Natola notes that one of the most influential originators of the animal trend is American fashion designer Jeremy Scott. “Scott’s collaborative line with Adidas showcased what was really a stuffed animal for your foot,” she says. “It pioneered how the animal print category could be expanded in a more playful form.” She adds that not only did this set off the 3-D animal shoe movement for kids, but it also helped push the boundaries for more non-traditional animal prints in footwear. >93

Feiyue

Cape Clogs

UPCLOSE ATHLETIC

European Accent Slovakian sneaker style à la Novesta.

THOUGH SLOVAKIA MAY not be known as a hotbed of sneaker manufacturing, Novesta has been making such shoes there for nearly 80 years. From humble beginnings as a rudimentary rubber and cotton canvas manufacturer to the founding of Novesta brand in 1992 to quickly becoming a European lifestyle staple to debuting in the U.S. market this fall, the brand’s timeless design aesthetic plus reliance on natural materials has been its formula to success. It’s a combination that U.S. Brand Manager Matthew Butlett expects will translate to this market.

“Novesta is pretty strong in Europe—Slovakia, Czech Republic, France, the UK—and we have a big following in Korea,” Butlett reports, adding, “The U.S. is virgin territory, and I believe our clean aesthetic will play well here.”

After a well-received launch with the basics for this fall, Butlett says Novesta is amping up its offerings for Spring ’17. While still focusing on core styles, like the Star Master Classic and Star Dribble (a canvas and rubber tennis sneaker and hi-top, respectively), the line will go deeper with the addition of bright colors, camouflage prints and contrasting or monochromatic outsoles.

Suggested retail for the unisex styles is $89 to $99. At the higher end of the spectrum, the new Marathon collection (SRP: $180) is crafted from Italian suede and German mesh. The curated group, Butlett says, has found a foothold in such leading boutiques as California’s American Rag, Lone Flag in Del Mar, CA, Indigo & Cotton in Charleston, SC, and Toronto’s Lost & Found.

For the coming season, Butlett hopes to continue on Novesta’s boutique-driven distribution strategy. “I’m just trying to knock on some doors,” he says, adding, “It’s fun, but it’s challenging, for sure.” To get the word out, the brand will also be exhibiting at the Capsule and Agenda shows and is working on developing relationships with retailers that might spur collaborations.

Along those lines, Butlett believes the Novesta customer is looking for something unique. “They’re looking for a heritage, handmade feel—not a mass-produced product,” he says, adding that this target demographic also appreciates the brand’s ecoconscious ethos and comfort features. Those include using ISO 14001 certified materials and a removable padded insole. “I’ve heard people saying they never take them off,” Butlett says. Though sneakers are Novesta’s focus in the U.S. right now, the brand crafts boots and other shoe styles in its markets abroad. Butlett hints that those styles might make it stateside in the coming seasons. —Ann Loynd 92 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

Making Magic Diadora transforms sport into lifestyle.

CAPITALIZING ON THE meteoric rise of sneaker fashion, Diadora is positioning itself at the tip of the athleisure spear with the introduction of a high-fashion collection for Spring ’17 as well as setting up ambitious international growth plans. CEO Enrico Moretti Polegato says the Italian brand’s message for next spring is to “change the reality” of an ever-evolving market. “The theme of Diadora’s spring collection focuses on a magical universe that creates a fascinating illusion—a hologram that shifts [between] real and imaginary scenarios,” he says.

For Diadora’s new Heritage boutique line, that translates to a re-imagination of classical trends in sneakers. Polegato says the styles are dreamlike iterations of iconic models—like old-school basketball silhouettes—and will retail from $165 to $250. The brand’s entry-level line (starting at $80 and retailing up to $220 for select styles made in Italy) also focuses on a mash of classic and contemporary themes. “For Diadora Sportswear, our street-style line, holograms represent the symbol of two different worlds that finally meet each other: retro running and performance,” Polegato explains, adding that in both cases, “The result is a contemporary remake of archival models where sport is transformed into lifestyle.” He cites the N9000MM, I.C. 4000 (both pulled from Diadora’s ’90s archives) and the Game (a court model from the ’80s) as revived styles reinterpreted into modern fashion with hologram details.

The Game sneaker is also an example of a style Diadora has tailored specifically for women. “Diadora has always been strong in the male segment, but in the past few years we’ve been receiving very positive feedback from the female market,” Polegato notes. He expects that the addition of women’s-specific styles will bolster growth for Spring ’17.

Going forward, the brand is focusing on international expansion. With distribution in more than 60 countries, Polegato says Diadora is paying particular attention to Europe, the Far East and the U.S., where it has recently opened a designated branch office in order to “gain a more influential and an active presence in this market.” He believes that American consumers will be receptive to Diadora’s rich sports heritage in a market flooded with copycats. “Since 1948, we’ve [been] writing the most exciting pages of sport history,” the exec says. “Our collections reinterpret models inspired by our sport DNA. We believe that a product with a history to tell has added value.” —A.L.

S P R I N G ’ 1 7 P R E V I E W: K I D S ’ Little Lulu’s

continued from page 91 SUEDE PARADE

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In a season where anything goes, perhaps it’s fitting that suede for summer is trend-right. A takedown from adult labels like Jason Wu, Derek Lam and Tibi, suede is infiltrating the kids’ market, spanning booties to brogues. “It’s best suited for footwear and accessories for kids whereas womenswear did it for apparel,� says WGSN’s Rechner, adding, “It also works well with all festival trends with fringe and Western influences.�

DENIM DREAMS

Torn, Fraye d or Faded : the Fabri c of the Seaso n

7/20/16 12:49 PM

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HEAVY METAL Get ready to rock with metallic coatings—be it silver, gold or bronze—for showstopping shine. Clarin Lim, product development manager at Umi, expects metallic to be one of the most versatile trends of the season: “Metallic coatings have a flawless, semi-matte liquid finish that offers a futuristic look to the shoes.�

Nike, Converse, Michael Kors, Mini Melissa and Sophia Webster are just a handful of kids’ labels showcasing bold metallics for the upcoming season, according to Beth Clifton, a buyer for online retailer Alex and Alexa. And for those buyers looking to kick it up a notch, designers have added texture to many metallic offerings, like faux croc leathers and crackled patents. •

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Feel free to contact us anytime at circulation@9threads.com or (440) 871-1300 with your questions. june 2008 • footwearplusmagazine.com 51

E - B E AT

BUYER CHAT

Derek Curry Sneaker Politics

Amazon Advice Tips for selling on the online beast.

AMAZON FASHION, A division of the mega-etailer, has amped up its industry presence recently with the launch of seven in-house brands as well as a slew of new hires to manage its rapidly growing private label division. It comes atop its growing branded sales offerings, which feature leading brands across all categories, and talk that the online giant will surpass Macy’s as the country’s largest apparel retail within the next year.

So what’s a wholesaler or retailer to do? Go head to head or get in bed with fashion’s new Goliath?

Enter L2, an intelligence firm benchmarking brands’ digital competence, which offers an overview of the benefits and challenges that brands face selling on Amazon as well as provides “actionable recommendations.”

Inspired by what Mabel McLean, director of Amazon IQ at L2, felt was an overall need for data-driven analysis in the marketplace, the report urges: “Whether or not brands officially distribute on [Amazon], they need to monitor the ecosystem.”

Brand equity and pricing, for example, have been oft-cited concerns when selling on Amazon, but McLean believes, despite this, more and more brands will be attracted to the plaform given its growing relevance. She also advises that with third-party merchant listings making up more than 75 percent of SKUs on the site, brands should regularly track their presence to monitor damage equity. Third-party SKUs that do not overlap with official inventory often showcase outdated products and feature low-quality brand imagery.

What’s more, McLean says success on Amazon is generally dependent on a small concentration of “core replenishment basics.” For most, core items drive more than 75 percent of sales, so keeping those items in stock is critical to driving visibility and sales. “This market is driven by replenishment,” McLean explains.

What’s more, 65 percent of the top 100 selling shoes most visible in search results were priced under $100. To wit, McLean advises that brands monitor the site to track widespread discounting. “Amazon’s dynamic pricing algorithm will drop prices on inventory in order to sell product, and it will adjust pricing based on third-party merchant offerings, which routinely offer discounts,” the report describes. Lastly, McLean emphasizes the importance of product detail page investment. Levi’s is cited as a prime example, having good search visibility and a greater number of reviews thanks, in part, to its size guides, custom product videos concerning fit and thumbnail images.

In regards to Amazon soon becoming the U.S.’s largest apparel retailer and whether that’s healthy for the industry overall, McLean notes, it’s not a necessarily a bad thing—it depends on the specific situation and brand.

“Amazon’s consumer demographic is young, affluent and gender neutral,” she says. Translation: If everybody is shopping on Amazon, then why avoid its reach entirely? —Lauren Olsen 94 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

IF HE WASN’T the owner of the Louisiana chain Sneaker Politics, Derek Curry would be renting beach chairs in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. “I would make just enough to live and relax,” he muses. “Zero-stress living would be amazing, for a change.”

Instead, Curry is blazing a trail through the fast-paced sneaker boutique world in stores and online. After a four-year stint in the Army, Curry took a side job at Finish Line while completing a finance degree. “It let me know what the customers in my area were looking for and let me learn the basics of how to run a business,” he recalls. Realizing there was a void in the lifestyle boutique experience in his home state, Curry opened the first Sneaker Politics store in Lafayette in 2006, which quickly became a portal for “the coolest” of sneakers with complementary apparel.

“I wanted to create a shopping experience that would focus on customer service more than anything,” Curry says. “A place where you felt comfortable to come hang out and talk sneakers and current events for hours.”

He has followed up with store locations in Baton Rouge and New Orleans as well as a website, sneakerpolitics.com. Today the site, which became shop-friendly in 2010, boasts category killers like Adidas, Nike, Asics and Saucony as well as trendier labels such as 10.Deep, Clear Weather and Filling Pieces.

About 28 percent of total sales come from online, and Curry forecasts that number to continue to grow in the years ahead. —L.O. What is the smartest decision you have made in the past year? I went really big on Adidas Boost technology, and it has paid off as these are the hottest-selling shoes in our stores right now.

What are key trends for Spring ’17?

New technology for runners will remain the focus, such as knits and cushioning technology. It looks like colors will remain simple with a lot of blacks, whites and grays.

What you are most excited about for spring? I love what Adidas is doing with their Boost technology. Anything with a Boost bottom is a winner in my book. I can’t stop wearing the Ultra Boost model.

How is the women’s athleisure trend impacting your business? Over the past two years, the biggest percentage gains in our stores has been women’s. We are thinking of opening a women’s-specific store in the next year to accommodate this new market.

Who is your target customer? In our stores, it’s males in the 15- to 28-year-old range that care about fashion. Our online customers are a wider range. We have some items that we could never sell in stores that will sell out instantly online.

What is your overall buying philosophy? Never buy emotionally. If I only would buy things that I like, we wouldn’t be in business. You have to think of your customers first.

What is the biggest challenge facing your business? Trying to grow our business by opening more locations. We are switching POS systems and hiring new people to help us with these growing pains.

says. Christine Dobson, vice president of sales and marketing at Astral, cites its Loyak sneaker, suited for land and water, which blew out last year. The brand will introduce the TR1 Mesh, a water-ready sneaker featuring a draining midsole and hydrophopic mesh for this spring as the follow-up.

Taos takes outdoor style for a spin.

continued from page 69 Turner reports an increase of younger consumers and low-key trail hikers turning to Oboz of late.

PADDLE YOGI Another smaller segment (but again very influential) is the consumer who is considered an extension of the macro healthy lifestyle movement. Often female and of a wide age range, they are seeking to connect body, soul and nature with Zen-like activities including yoga and Stand Up Paddling (SUP), and often a mixture of both.

Thomsen says Adidas Outdoor is connecting with this consumer at water-sport specialty shops. “We work with rafting companies that do stand-up-paddling and canoeing, and we do a lot with West Marine,” he says, adding, “That distribution is a bit more focused, but it blurs across all lines.” New for Spring ’17 is the Terrex Climacool Voyager, a sneaker featuring a mesh upper, drainage in the sole and air vents on the side. “It drains out if you go in the water, but it also looks really good and is soft and lightweight,” he says. “This is the shoe they’ll wear to yoga, to the beach, to travel to the river.”

“This paddler is looking for easy off-and-on, and ability to get wet,” says Butts, adding that Chaco is debuting more lifestyle products to meet this customer’s needs. “What we’ve done for Spring ’17 is decidedly lifestyle for a brand rooted in white-water rafting and outdoor activates,” he says, noting the classic Z, Finley and Tempest styles have been updated with trend-right patterns.

Cross-over products are a sweet spot for this consumer, agrees Blakeslee. “People are starting to do yoga as cross-training for outdoor,” he says.

“We might not be making shoes for paddle or yoga specifically, but they’ll wear our sandals carrying the board from the beach.”

“They’re looking for something that looks great and goes everywhere,” agrees Teva’s Gabrielli.

She cites the new Azure flip, a water-friendly flip-flop with step-in comfort. “It’s butter,” she

Styles by Chaco, Jambu and Merrell fit for the concrete jungle.

URBAN JUNGLE DWELLER Like the Paddle Yogi customer, crossover product is important to the Urban Jungle Dweller—equally important as style. “Outdoor lifestyle is becoming more urban than ever before,” confirms Blakeslee. “Mixing style and authentic performance is a new trend that everyone is talking about.”

Authenticity is also key. Think heritage brands and classic styling—like the popular alpine boot trend. And me-too or wannabe brands won’t cut it. “It’s not about emulating plaid shirts, a beard and boots anymore, but you have to have the right boots, the right jeans,” Blakeslee quips. “It’s authentic, and that works in our wheelhouse.” (Woolrich was founded in 1830.)

Bates agrees that authenticity is an important selling point, and cites its new panel boot crafted in American buck and American bison leather as being a hit among this target consumer. “It’s perfectly wearable to hit the streets, and has a great outdoor look that’s functional,” he says.

Meza says the style component plays into Jambu’s favor. “Wearing something still fashionable to get me from the subway to work is important, and our shoes tailor to that,” she says. “They’re outdoor-inspired, but fashion is important. We’re not too masculine or granola looking.” Similarly, Thomsen says Adidas’ Response Trail shoe, designed for urban running, has been the brand’s top callout by fashion editors. “It’s really high performance but has a street-fashion look,” he says.

Sue Dooley, senior vice president of global marketing for Rockport, says the key to targeting this consumer is a digital, data-driven approach.

“On our website, we’ve learned that many of our consumers are young financial professionals,” she explains. “So we are reaching out to kids in business school.” For Spring ’17, the Jaxson wingtip for men and Audrina slip-on for women both target that young professional, capturing current style cues that are versatile enough to dress up or down. “We’re going after movers, so everyone in all of these groups is a mover in some way,” Dooley adds.

Gabriella sees a similar commonality of movement at Teva. “The urban dweller, yogi, Boomer, Millennial explorer…They don’t want to compromise,” she says. “All of them are looking for that product versatility that helps keep them moving.” •

2016 august • footwearplusmagazine.com 95

LAST WORD

The Art of the Design

ONE STEP BEYOND Part shoes and part art, designer Chris Francis is making a name for himself one pedestal-worthy pair at a time. By Greg Dutter IS CHRIS FRANCIS a shoe designer, an artist or both? The answer—judging by the accompanying photo gallery—is most definitely the latter. And while many footwear designers consider themselves artists, few possess his museum-worthy talents or creative vision. Francis has had commissioned collections appear in Los Angeles’s Craft & Folk Art and Architecture & Design museums. He is also on call for creating one-off designs for celebrities and rockers like Lita Ford, members of Mötley Crüe, Steve Jones of the Sex Pistols and former Prince guitarist Donna Grantis, to name a few.

The former painter-turned-carpenter-turned-apparel-maker-turned-shoe designer is self taught. The story goes that Francis, looking for a creative outlet, went to a Los Angeles library in 2010 and checked out a book on patternmaking. He taught himself how to make clothing and got his big break after being spotted by a stylist while sitting on a park bench working on one of his designs. That led to making some pieces for the rock band Journey.

Soon after, Francis attended a Louis Vuitton party where one of its footwear designers was performing a demonstration. “He was sewing the welts on the men’s shoes and I was absolutely fascinated by it,” Francis recalls. “That was the first time I had ever seen anybody make a shoe by hand. I didn’t know it was a possibility.” The next day, Francis began trying to make his own shoes—a trial-and-error process that soon became a labor of love. “I carved my last by hand on that park bench,” he says, which is fitting for a designer who possesses a strong architectural design aesthetic. “If there’s a common thread that runs through my work, it’s bold colors, sharp contrasts, rigid lines, architectural and sculptural forms, material range and exploration,” 96 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2016

Francis says. “The shoe is a fascinating way to do all of that because you can use rigid materials to make a three-dimensional form.”

Francis makes shoes out of his L.A.-based design studio—all by hand and all by himself. “It’s a house of one,” he says with a laugh. But the designer is now looking to branch out to more mainstream, mass-produced collections.

“As much as I love making pedestal pieces, I love making functionality,” he says, noting that he already has “completely wearable” designs waiting to be released. The five-year plan, he adds, is to have a fashion house backed by a team of assistants. “I want to design shoes for the market and for galleries,” he says, adding, “Why not? Just keep an open mind and I believe the sky’s the limit. The shoe really has no boundaries, and it’s fun trying to see where it can all go.”

Francis will be on hand at this month’s FN Platform show in Las Vegas, where his design studio will be transported to showcase his unique skills and artistic approach to shoemaking. “It’s a high honor for me to be at Platform and an opportunity I never expected to have, coming from outside the mass market,” he says. He also hopes his presence will help to shine a light on the growing handcrafted shoemaking movement. “There are a lot of young designers getting into handcrafting shoes, so this will be a great way to open eyes to that and engage people in the process of shoemaking where modern results can be achieved on antique machinery.”

A personal design favorite? Francis has a penchant for making platforms and high heels. Ironically, though, he says many of those women’s styles have been worn by men. “That’s my rock ‘n’ roll clientele, I guess,” Francis says, adding that when it comes to materials and silhouettes, men, surprisingly, want more variety than his female customers. Regardless of gender or status, Francis says he aims to make shoes for whoever will love them. “They don’t have to be a celebrity or a rock star; they are going to be treated like one no matter what,” he says. “It’s a lot of work, but I love every minute of it.” •

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