Footwear Plus Magazine | December 2015 by Wainscot Media

T HE R E TA I L P RO PHET S PE AKS

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ST YLE HALL OF FAME : DR . S C HO L L’S

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Eclectic Aesthetic ƫ ƫ ƫ

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GE T T I NG TO KNOW TAM ARIS

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201 5 PLUS AWARDS E X C E L L E N C E I N D E S I G N & R E TA I L

Vote Now Online FOOTWEARPLUSMAGAZINE.COM WOMEN’S COMFORT c Kork-Ease c Birkenstock c Earthies c Pikolinos

WOMEN’S COLLECTION c Vince Camuto c Stuart Weitzman c SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker c Jeffrey Campbell

SANDALS c Ancient Greek Sandals c Aetrex c Taos c Naot

NATIONAL CHAIN c Nordstrom c DSW c Foot Locker c Famous Footwear

MEN’S COMFORT c Rockport c Ecco c OluKai c Geox

MEN’S COLLECTION c Cole Haan c Clarks Originals c Trask c Robert Graham

OUTDOOR c Keen c The North Face c Columbia c Hoka One One

BOUTIQUE c City Soles c Solestruck c Gimme Shoes c Sportie LA

BOOTS c Ugg Australia c Dr. Martens c Frye c Børn

WORK BOOTS c Wolverine c Rocky c Justin Original Workboots c Timberland Pro

OUTDOOR STYLE c Jambu c Sorel c Woolrich c Bogs

LAUNCH OF THE YEAR c Seven Dials c Ccilu c Tamaris c 361°

RUNNING c Brooks c Hoka One One c Under Armour c Saucony

CLOGS c Dansko c Swedish Hasbeens c Sanita c Mia

SNEAKER BOUTIQUE c Concepts c Extra Butter c Packer Shoes c Supreme

BRAND OF THE YEAR c Under Armour c Vans c Skechers c Sorel

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE c New Balance c Converse c Vans c Adidas Originals

CELEBRITY COLLABS c Kanye West x Adidas c Iggy Azalea x Steve Madden c Rihanna x Puma c Disney x Vans c Bee Line (Pharrell Williams) x Timberland

ONLINE RETAILER c Zappos c Shoes.com c ShoeBuy c Net-a-Porter

COMPANY OF THE YEAR c Skechers c VF Corp. c Nike c New Balance

ATHLEISURE c Skechers c Adidas c Ecco c Nike CHILDREN’S c Keen c Jambu c Toms c Umi

SNEAKER BOUTIQUE COLLABS c Concepts x Nike SB “Grail” c Packer x Ewing Athletics “Fame & War” c J. Crew x New Balance 998 “In Good Company” c Colette x Asics Gel Lyte III “Dotty”

SIT & FITS c Comfort One Shoes c Sole Desire Shoes c Eneslow c Karavel Shoes

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AT L A N TA S H O E M A R K E T.C O M

DECEMBER 2015

Caroline Diaco Publisher

F E A T U R E S 10 Prophetic Words Retail industry futurist Doug Stephens shares his insights about today’s shopping climate and why it’s the “golden age” of retail. By Kathy Passero 14 Filling in the Dots Jan Brinkmann, president of Tamaris USA, on the leading European lifestyle brand’s launch stateside and why timing, analytics and great shoes have been a recipe for success. By Greg Dutter 20 Calling All Scholars The Two Ten Footwear Foundation Scholarship Program is open to all industry members and their families— spread the word. By Greg Dutter 24 Exercise Craze The latest inductee to the Footwear Plus Style Hall of Fame, Dr. Scholl’s Exercise Sandal, has been a go-to fave of women for 50 years and counting. By Laurie Cone 30 Looking Back and Forward From sporty to shorties: the trends that graced the pages of Footwear Plus in 2015. 34 Party Girl Designers embrace the mashup movement, blending bold colors, embellishments and eclectic heel shapes. By Tara Anne Dalbow

D E P A R T M E N T S PA G E

34 On the cover: Anyi Lu patentleather Mary Janes, Carven top, Emmelle pants, Hildur Yeoman hat, glasses by I Still Love You NYC, earrings by Haus of Topper, Yazbukey flowers.

Photographer: Christophe Kutner; Fashion Editor: Tara Anne Dalbow; stylist: Edda Gudmundsdottir; hair and makeup: Tinna Empera/Cloutier Remix; model: Mary-Margaret H./Major Model Management; choreographer: Benoit-Swan Pouffer; assistant stylist: Brynja Skjaldardottir. Shot on location at Rumpus Room, NYC.

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Editor’s Note This Just In What’s Selling Shoe Salon E-beat Last Word

This page: stiletto sandal by OYSBY, Hathairat dress.

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Ann Loynd Senior Editor Laurie Cone Associate Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Tara Ann Dalbow Contributing Fashion Editor Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer Judy Leand Contributing Editor ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl. New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

Tamaris USA INC. 路 4767 New Broad Street, Orlando, FL 32814 路 office (407) 514 2734 路 theschuh@tamaris.us 路 theschuh.com

E D I TO R ’S N OT E Continuing Educałion

BRAIN TRUST The smart move: Footwear Plus partners with Two Ten Footwear Foundation on its annual Scholarship Program. I HAVE NEVER been one to consider myself the smartest person in the room— and that includes when I’m alone. This, however, should not be construed as a complete lack of smarts on my part. Rather it’s the firm belief that there is always an opportunity to learn more. The old adage, “You learn something new every day” rings as true to me today as when I first heard the phrase from my mother, a former journalist, when I was a child. In fact, learning is the basis of my profession—asking questions, gathering research, confirming facts and then writing about them to inform readers. For 25 years, Footwear Plus has been doing exactly that: informing and educating readers on the latest industry trends and news. So it is with great pride that I announce our partnership with Two Ten Footwear Foundation’s annual Scholarship Program for the 2015–16 academic year. The primary aim of our partnership is to spread the word through our industry that this increasingly needed source of financial assistance is available to all footwear employees (retailers and wholesalers) and their family members. And while this year saw an allocation of $870,000 in funds to a record 310 recipients, Debbie Ferrée, chief merchandising officer of DSW and chairperson of the Two Ten Education Committee, says that only three percent of those receiving funds hail from independent retailers and only 27 percent are currently employed in the industry. Ferrée wants to increase both of those percentages substantially this year, and Footwear Plus will be a key vehicle for spreading the message that the funds are available. So, to get the ball rolling, scholarships are available for two- and four-year undergraduate programs. They are awarded based on financial need (the most important criterion), academic ability and personal promise. The application period runs from this month through Mar. 31, 2016. Those interested can log onto twoten.org/what-we-do/scholarships for details and to apply. We’ve also added faces to some of this year’s Two Ten scholarships winners (“Calling All Scholars,” p. 20). Reading bios of people who are benefitting from our industry’s collective generosity and finding out that those funds were often the key

to attending college is both inspiring and rewarding. Their stories will make you feel proud to be a part of this industry. Two Ten has awarded $20 million in scholarships since 1969, benefitting 6,353 students who were able to pursue their career dreams. Many went on to provide a better life for their families. That’s the beauty and power of education. It makes people’s lives better. The alternative can be scary and depressing. We’ve all seen that ignorance and intolerance can be a lethal combination. What happened in Paris is an all-too-painful recent example. On a smaller and, in comparison, trivial scale, recent college students’ protests for “safe spaces” while often shutting out opposing viewpoints are another form of intolerable ignorance. Not only do they run counter to the First Amendment, they fly in the face of what higher education should be all about. We should never turn our backs on the opportunity to learn, embrace new ideas and find ways to peacefully tolerate different points of view. It’s the essence of learning how to co-exist. For the record, I grew up in Maplewood, NJ, a suburban town where everyone pretty much looked and acted the same. It wasn’t until I attended Syracuse University that I lived in close quarters (i.e. cramped dormitories) with a world of different people—including some with exotic accents (Boston), a roommate from Trinidad and a relatively large Arabic student population. While I’ll never quite understand why anybody would choose to be a Red Sox fan, I learned that, for the most part, people are people. I remember sitting in the school library next to a woman wearing a hijab one day. She couldn’t have seemed any more foreign to me, but, like me, she was trying to conduct research on a computer. It kept acting up. Frustrated, she finally cursed and smacked the side of the monitor. I had to suppress a smile because I would have had the exact same reaction. Right then I realized people aren’t all that different—and certain aspects of student life are bound to try your patience, no matter who you are or where you’re from. But, despite its frustrations, higher education is still the most effective path to understanding and tolerance—two things our world needs now more than ever. We at Footwear Plus are proud to help further the cause of higher education for our industry.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

6 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

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Prophet Sharing Gazing into the surprisingly bright future with “retail prophet” Doug Stephens—and what retailers should do now to make the most of it. BY K AT H Y PA S S E RO

was dependably effective in reaching consumers. The shopper’s path to purchase was known, predictable and controlled by brands and retailers. And the public was solely dependent on physical stores to offer them distribution of products. All of these conditions have come to an end. By all measures, the middle class is shrinking. Mass media is no longer reaching consumers effectively. The consumer journey from discovery to purchase is complex and circuitous and in a world where Alibaba can sell $3.9 billion worth of goods in an hour, stores are no longer depended upon to avail distribution of products. The collapse of these historic conditions means that all retailers—whether they sell shoes or anything else—must rethink their entire business model.

STYLE FILE How would you describe your personal style? Eclectic. What is your go-to shoe style? At home, Nike Frees. At work, brown wingtip brogues. Do you prefer to shop online or in person? I prefer to shop in a store because I can be a tricky fit. What is the first website you visit each morning? Twitter. What are you reading? Superforecasting: The Art and Science of Prediction by Philip Tetlock and Dan Gardner, and The Coming Generational Storm by Laurence Kotlikoff and Scott Burns.

What’s your motto? The future is What opportunities does the new bright. era present for retailers? There’s a historic leveling of the playing field taking place. Success in retail is no longer tied to how deep your advertising budget is or how big your stores are. Walmart, Target, Macy’s and many other incumbents are now struggling. Meanwhile, small insurgent brands like Shoes of Prey, Warby Parker and Bonobos that are creating awesome products or customer experiences are able to connect directly with consumers and scale incredibly fast.

FANS DON’T CALL Doug Stephens “the retail prophet” for nothing. As one of the world’s preeminent industry futurists, Stephens is the go-to expert for such heavy hitters as Walmart, Home Depot, Disney, BMW, Citibank, eBay, Intel and WestJet. Before founding Retail Prophet, he spent more than two hands-on decades learning the ropes of the retail industry, where he held senior international roles and led one of New York City’s most historic retail chains. Stephens is the author of the book The Retail Revival: Reimagining Business for the New Age of Consumerism (2013), a syndicated retail columnist for CBC Radio, co-host of the popular web series The Future In Store and a member of the advisory board of the Dx3 digital conference. His bold insights on retailing, business and consumer behavior make him a sought-after source by such leading media outlets as The New York Times, BBC, Bloomberg Business, TechCrunch, Financial Times, The Wall Street Journal and Fast Company. Below, he shares his often eye-opening perspectives. Read on to find out why courageous change is mandatory, shopping is a fundamental human need and this is the “golden age” of retail. You’ve called this “the end of an era” for retail. What’s ending? From the post-WWII era through to the 1990s, retailers could depend on a few things. America’s middle class was growing and optimistic. Mass media 10 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

What might a typical shoe store look like in 10 years? On the one hand, we will have commodity marketplaces where you can get what you want fast and at what seems a fair value. You’ll get little to no service or customer experience, but you’ll get the product pretty frictionlessly. Amazon, Alibaba, Costco and other sharp discounters will dominate this corner of the market. At the other end, we’ll have highly experiential specialty and luxury retailers. You’ll go to these stores to experience the brand, connect with great staff, have fun, learn about your style and get properly fitted, perhaps even co-design your own shoes. You won’t necessarily depend on stores to carry inventory as they do today; you may have your items shipped to you after the fact. Consumers will bounce back and forth between these extremes of value. Any retailer who gets caught in the middle of these two extremes is going to have a really tough time getting noticed. Looking further ahead, I believe that within 10 to 15 years, people will be able to print their own shoes at home. In the meantime, what should shoe retailers do to adapt and thrive? The cold, hard reality is that we now live in a world where no one needs what you sell. Consumers operate with the belief that almost anything they want is accessible whenever they want it. If they don’t get it from you, they can find it somewhere else. And in most cases, they’re right! The good news is that consumers do need how you sell what you sell. They need the remarkable experience that only you and your store can >45

THIS JUST IN

SHINE ON Street chic receives extra wattage thanks to shimmering, high-shine attire in iridescent hues that are anything but basic. Photography by Melodie Jeng 12 footwearplusmagazine.com â&#x20AC;˘ december 2015

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Filling in the Dots

Ja n B r i n k m a n n , p r e s i d e n t o f Ta m a r i s U S A , o n t h e l e a d i n g E u r o p e a n l i f e s t y l e b r a n d ’s l a u n c h s t a t e s i d e — and why timing, analytics and great shoes are the key ingredients in its recipe for success.

O SKI OR not to ski? That is the question Jan Brinkmann posed to himself one morning 20 years ago. It would set in motion the start of a successful career in the shoe industry. Brinkmann, at the time, was studying business administration in the Bavaria region of Germany and was debating whether he should go to class that day or answer the call of the snow-covered Alps he could see from his small terrace. While mulling it over, he happened to look down at a stately office building nearby that was nicely landscaped and had a few snazzy cars parked out front. “It looked very posh, like a Hyatt Hotel entrance,” he recalls. A friend informed him that it was the Gabor shoe company. Intrigued by the look of the place, Brinkmann sent a letter saying he would like to work there. “It was a very superficial approach,” he admits with a laugh. “But I just thought the company looked very inviting and well-run, and that I would like to work with these guys.” As fate would have it, Gabor was in search of a traveling salesman and Brinkmann fit the profile. His first job prior to college had been doing exactly that for Europe’s largest furniture company. He had logged 60,000 miles a year for three years throughout Bavaria. The art of selling is a universal language, and the Gabor execs believed Brinkmann could do the same for them. “They pulled down a map that was filled with colorful dots around Europe, and there were a lot of white dots, especially outside of Europe,” Brinkmann remembers during that first interview. “The colorful dots meant that Gabor had distribution in those areas and the white dots meant they didn’t.” The execs asked Brinkmann if he would be interested in trying to color in the white dots. “I was 27 and I said sure,” he says. As the company’s newly minted export manager, he began working a territory anywhere beyond Western Europe. “Eastern Europe, Asia—everywhere where they needed distribution. It was super exciting,” Brinkmann recalls. Over the next three years, Brinkmann swapped his car for air travel in 14 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

pursuit of opening new accounts, exhibiting at trade shows and meeting with retailers in distant lands. He colored in the dots of approximately 15 countries for Gabor, including Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Poland and the Czech Republic. Brinkmann was then promoted to sales director of Gabor men’s and Jollys, the company’s casual lifestyle brand. He was later recruited to become director of Rieker’s U.S. business, which gave him an opportunity to focus on one country. It wasn’t long before Brinkmann got promoted and took on the company’s management responsibilities for the U.K., Ireland, China and New Zealand. The extensive travel resumed and,

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O&A to quote the late, great Yogi Berra, it was déjà vu all over again. “I was basically right back to where I started with Gabor,” Brinkmann, a father of three, says. “It was so much traveling.” As footwear industry fate would have it yet again, the Wortmann Group, makers of Tamaris—one of Europe’s leading women’s lifestyle footwear brands—was planning to enter the U.S. market. Brinkmann, who grew up a mere 25 miles from the company’s Detmold, Germany, headquarters, fit the manager profile they were seeking to a T. Not only did he possess extensive experience in introducing new brands to markets around the What are you reading? A motiworld, he had most recently done so vational book called Fish! about in the U.S. Brinkmann speaks the lana corporate manager faced with guage—literally and figuratively. He the task of turning around an understands what American retailers accounting department. She gets want and need and is able to commentored by a manager of the municate that message back to the local fish market, where everywholesale company. It’s a conversaone is having fun and selling fish tion that often gets lost in translation. like crazy. “Many companies try entering this market only to give up,” Brinkmann What is inspiring you right says, noting that the sheer size and now? Life. Walking through peculiarities of the U.S. market can a town, taking a day off at the make it a daunting challenge. “It beach, going for a hike in the makes sense to have somebody who mountains—breaths of fresh understands both sides of the busiair. Inspiration can come from ness equation as well as both culanywhere when you open your tures in order to try and bring it all eyes and see what’s going on together.” He adds that it requires around you. stamina and determination. “There can be no compromise,” he says. What is your motto? Work “Either you want this market and hard and try even harder. Also, you give it your all and provide the use the smarts that your parents things the U.S. consumer wants and gave you, and don’t forget to see deserves, or you just let it be.” the humor and fun in life. Wortmann, a $1 billion entity, had already begun that process about a What sound do you love? year before Brinkmann’s arrival in Don’t judge me by this, but I April 2014. The conglomerate had really love the sound of a highdone extensive market research. “A revving race engine. I took lot of companies just look at GDP, my son to Daytona recently to population and footwear market see a Porsche race, and it was statistics, which don’t mean anyexhilarating. thing, really,” Brinkmann explains. “Wortmann looked at this market in a very analytical way, which is crucial.” For example, he says Wortmann got its logistics in order before shipping to address the unique demands of the U.S. market. (Anyone who has been in this business for a long time knows that has not been the norm.) “Wortmann really did its homework,” he says. “You cannot discriminate against a U.S. consumer by shipping four weeks late, for example, because you happen to ship out of Europe. It’s not acceptable.” For Tamaris’s debut this fall, Wortmann not only shipped on time, in many instances, it shipped early if requested. It was intended to send a clear message that Tamaris was not just another typical European brand launch. “Normally, the system doesn’t work until the numbers are there, but we wanted to make it work—even with smaller numbers at the start,” Brinkmann says. So far, the Tamaris launch is working well. “Our delivery was a success and the quality of our merchandise was great,” Brinkmann reports. “We

had a nice start to the season and, while the weather hasn’t really cooperated, we’ve had a good reaction from our retailers, who showed trust in booking us.” In addition to delivering quality, on-trend product on time, Brinkmann credits Tamaris’s positive debut to good timing. Specifically, he believes the market is ripe for something new. “The market has become a little stale and a lot of displays are looking a bit tired,” he says. “The consumer is looking for new—she’s tired of the same old, same old, and an infusion of fresh design along with a new If you could hire anybody, who brand can provide a lift to retailwould it be? Hands down, Sir ers.” Specifically, Brinkmann points Richard Branson. He’s an unbeto Tamaris’s breadth of styling, fealievable entrepreneur, witty, enerturing quality leathers, fine finishes getic and powerful. He’s also and its patented Anti-Shock heel extremely inspirational—he technology as a conversation starter thinks outside the box and he’s a with shoppers. Add the attractive disruptor, which our world needs. price points (ranging from $80 to $145 for spring and $89 to $250 for Who is your most coveted dinfall) and the “very long margin” (60 ner guest? It has to be my wife, points) for retailers, and Brinkmann right? Can you put that in bold? believes Tamaris presents a complete and sellable story. What was your first paying Of course, Brinkmann knows that job? A salesman for Europe’s one successful debut season does largest furniture company. My not a brand make. The Tamaris territory was Bavaria. I was a story is in the beginning stages and, typical traveling salesman, drivregardless of how efficient one’s ing 60,000 miles a year. I was backroom logistics are, it’s strong fortunate enough to learn a lot sell-through rates that will keep the about selling, wholesale, retail story going. “Nobody has been waitand people. It was a great training for Tamaris, so we have to make ing experience. sure the trust that is being placed in us is justified,” Brinkmann says. What is your favorite home“The most important test is prodtown memory? I grew up in ucts that sell-through and provide Herford in northern Germany. good profits for our partners so we Life was very simple. My house can build off of that. I’m proud to was close to a creek and a large say we are en route.” forest. There were no distractions like all the electronic stuff What does Wortmann bring to the of today. I spent most of my time table that other companies may outside, and I loved it. not have when trying to break into this market? First of all, it’s the expertise in shoemaking. We have been making shoes for 50 years and have managed to create a No. 1 fashion brand in a very crowded European market. The shoe knowledge related to construction and fit plus the sourcing power behind that enables us to offer quality footwear at attractive pricing. It has enabled us to capture gigantic markets—like the U.S., hopefully, if we do everything right. Wortmann also has extensive financial resources. A successful launch into this market doesn’t happen overnight. We needed an infrastructure from the outset. Lastly, it’s our commitment. We are not doing anything half-hearted. Our product teams—whether its logistics, supply chain, marketing, etc.—are all standing behind this launch. This is not a case of sending two or three salespeople out into the market to try and sell and then fix everything later. For example, we had one retail partner that required 100 percent EDI compliance from the onset. For a startup company, that can be daunting to implement. But with the help of our

OFF THE CUFF

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

O&A IT people, that retailer tested us in record time. It’s this kind of commitment that makes a big difference. While we are a small team in the U.S., we have a monster team behind us that is determined for us to succeed. Bigger, in this regard, is better. Yes, but we don’t underestimate the fact that we have to stay nimble. We also have to stay humble. We can’t underestimate the market and overestimate our powers. We still have to see the market as unique and make the appropriate adjustments. And we should never be cocky. The opportunity is enormous, but we only have one chance to make a first impression. Having launched brands in many countries— including this one—in addition to good product what do you need to be successful? It’s three things: product, product and product. That’s the key. Not to belittle the backroom capabilities of a $1 billion company… No, but the product has to be right, and it has to be right in all aspects. We started our line meeting for Fall ’16 this week and I’m going to review about 1,000 styles in order to find the 80 to 120 that make sense for this market. The goal is to make the collection convincing and comprehensive. The ability to whittle down rather than create from scratch has to be a big advantage, no? It is. But we have to find the right amount of styles that make sense for this market. That’s a science by itself, involving analytics, trend research and speaking with our retailers. Collection building is crucial. I want to make sure we are focused instead of being a little bit of everything. Going forward, Tamaris will hone in on what I like to call ‘wearable fashion’ that maxes out on a certain height and will represent a recognizable style aesthetic.

How much autonomy do you have in the final determination of the collection? While I’m the lead for the U.S., I work very closely with our head of product development. I do the first round of selection and then we do the remaining rounds together. Our line builder also visits the U.S. often, and not only New York, which is a sub-market to itself. We have a good understanding of other parts of the country as well. For example, we just went to Minnesota, the suburbs of Chicago and Milwaukee—lighthouse accounts where we were able to obtain firsthand feedback on trends and preferences. What, specifically, did you see in those markets? Those accounts are much more casual-oriented, whereas New York is a more styled and niche product. New York has its own elegance and sophistication. It’s a lot of fun, but it’s not a macro market. It’s not reflective of the rest of the U.S. at all. Do you have more leeway to choose what you think is right for the U.S. consumer regardless of what might be trending in other countries? Absolutely, and that just makes sense. That is one reason why the line is large overall—it’s in order to cover these different consumer preferences around the world. For the U.S., it’s more casual in general, which is a very strong word here. The consumer wants shoes that look good, but they don’t want to sacrifice comfort. Product aspects like the softness of the materials and comfort features are very important. It’s also about convenience. For example, they may want a lace-up look, but they also want to have a zipper on the inside. These are important product details to not overlook for this market. Who is the Tamaris customer? She’s a modern woman looking for a certain level of sophistication in her style. She feels like 30 to 50 years old, even though she can be of a different

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age. She is looking for great-fitting shoes that enhance her well-being, lifestyle and look. She is looking for something special that is not overly distributed, and she doesn’t want to break the bank by buying that quality product. The fact is you can find comparable product to Tamaris at much higher prices. You mentioned that retail has been a bit stale making it a more favorable climate to launch a new brand. Yes, but it’s still tricky. You hear retailers are looking to add newness, but they are also skittish to try anything new, which I can understand. But one thing is for sure: The consumer is not looking to buy the same old, same old anymore, and it doesn’t matter if it’s from Tamaris or another brand. She is looking for new—new elements, designs, embellishments, etc. to lift up her wardrobe. That has been verified with the retailers we are working with. Is it more the look or the brand that’s driving her purchases? It depends. With respect to the retailers that we are targeting, which are the better-grade independents and department stores, it’s not necessarily the brand so much as it’s the individual shoe—the quality, the fit and the look. Those retailers have built that level of trust with the consumer where the brand is not so much in question. With regards to retailers that we don’t cater to, other aspects may be more important where brand and price are more the drivers. Someone mentioned to me recently that the days of stocking the top five or 10 brands and expecting it to be enough of a lure to draw shoppers into a store are over. Do you agree? I think that’s exactly right. Today, the transparency of the Internet has brought us the ability to search for whatever we want and immediately compare price. I think that puts a different aspect on shopping for brands in stores. It can be about finding a style that makes her happy, and it’s not necessarily the brand as much as it can be what that particular product offers. That’s why we are

building Tamaris first by providing the right product, which we hope creates a snowball effect for the brand. Along those lines, it was nice to see retailers pull in other retailers they knew into our booth to check us out. That’s a big compliment. Our merchandise was very well received. We had some very nice man-tailored loafers and slip-ons with a little bit of embellishment, and we had some great short boots that just blew out. Where do you envision Tamaris five years from now? We want to establish a healthy distribution for Tamaris by year five. My goal is quality over quantity, and that’s in regards to the product, our service and the retailers we partner with. So far so good as some customers have come back for second and third pairs. In addition, the reviews online have been great. Things like, ‘Never heard of this brand, but it fits great and it’s super cute…’ That’s the type of feedback that generates brand awareness. A quality over quantity approach in this market can still equate to plenty of quantity in terms of sales. Yes, but you have to be careful. You have to be willing to look at your distribution and determine whether expanding it might cause a knock-down effect with your current partners. I want our distribution to be sustainable. Opening too many doors at the start could backfire on us. There are also other ways to grow once we’ve created a meaningful distribution base. We could open franchise doors with retail partners that allow for expanded growth in select markets where we sell more shoes without hurting our existing distribution. How does online fit into this distribution strategy? Zappos yes. Amazon no. We like the way Zappos cares for its partners. They’ve given us a meaningful display and have been very good to us. It’s been a winwin. Overall, online is a growing part of the consumer shopping experience, and I don’t think that it’s ever going to go back. The convenience of buy- >47

T h e Tw o Te n F o o t w e a r F o u n d a t i o n S c h o l a r s h i p P r o g r a m i s o p e n t o all industry members and their families—spread the word.

CALLING ALL SCHOLARS

THE PROOF IS in the statistics: Those who earn a Numerous studies also show that people with college college degree are more likely to have higher earnings degrees are likely to experience more job opportunities potential. In fact, the United States Census Bureau (60 percent of today’s jobs in the U.S. require higher reports individuals who achieve the following degree education), greater job satisfaction and increased job levels earned these median annual salaries: PhDs, stability. The latter two translate into an increased $100,000 or more; masters, $63,000; bachelors, likelihood of personal happiness. Last but not least, $55,700; and associates, $42,000. Those armed people with higher learning degrees are better with only a high school diploma: $32,500. That able to provide greater benefits to their families, BY GREG especially their children. Studies have shown that lower figure is, of course, compounded over a lifetime. High school diploma people can expect children in households where one or both parents DUTTER to earn about $1.3 million during their working possess a college degree are themselves more years, which is about $1 million less, on average, likely to earn a degree of higher learning. It’s a than those with college degrees. This begs the question: trickle-down effect that can influence the well-being Is investing in higher education (even at a cost that can of future generations. be as much as $300,000 over four years) worth it? The However, the cost to obtain such degrees is rising answer appears to be yes. exponentially. According to a recent New York Times

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

ROLL CALL M e e t t h e s e 2 0 1 5 Tw o Te n F o o t w e a r F o u n d a t i o n s c h o l a r s h i p winners: a diverse demographic all thankful for the financial support provided to pursue their career dreams. —G.D. article, tuition costs have increased three percent to five percent per annum over the last decade. The average cost of tuition and fees for the 2014–15 academic year was $46,272 at private colleges and $23,410 for an Two Ten Education in-state public college. Tack Committee Chairperson on costs for housing, meals, Debbie Ferrée books, supplies and transportation, and it’s an expense that many families cannot afford without substantial financial assistance. Hence, the estimated $1 trillion in student loan debt—a bubble that’s itching to burst. As a result, millions of Americans seeking to send Two Ten President their children and/or themNeal Newman selves to institutes of higher learning are increasingly in need of desperate financial assistance. Enter the Two Ten Footwear Foundation Scholarship Program. Since 1969, Two Ten has awarded nearly $20 million to 6,353 students. In 2015, the footwear industry’s charitable organization awarded a total of $870,000 in scholarship funds to 310 students nationwide. “These scholarship funds have been provided by hundreds of generous donors over the years who all know how important a college education is,” says Debbie Ferrée, chief merchandising officer of DSW and chairperson of the Two Ten Education Committee. “Today, as footwear families face tough challenges to afford university, the Two Ten Scholarship Program is an incredible benefit that is valued at $12,000 per student for a four-year degree.” Ferrée has witnessed the transformational nature of higher education for many years, but it was during Two Ten’s board meeting this fall when a recent recipient explained eloquently how much the opportunity means. The woman—the first in her family to attend college—told the board that the benefit of a college education for her isn’t about driving expensive cars or eating in fancy restaurants. Rather, what is most important is that earning her degree as a public health practitioner will enable her to make a positive difference in this world—a lesson taught to her by her parents. She added that she wants to be a role model to her younger brothers and community. “I was so impressed by her drive and her commitment to getting

Evan Bellas, 18, Dexter, MI Attends : Eastern Michigan University Major : Computer Science Bellas hopes to become a software developer. He found out about the Two Ten scholarship through his father, Rich, who co-owned Van Boven Shoes in nearby Ann Arbor for 30-plus years. While his father sold his ownership stake in the store, he still works there and in the industry he loves. Bellas applied for many other scholarships, but only received one from Two Ten. “These Two Ten funds have helped me greatly,” he says, noting the fact that it’s renewable for four years has been a real plus. “The footwear community is great—it’s here for me and others in the industry.” Bellas adds that his father is incredibly proud of the scholarship: “He was the first to tell me about it. He loves the shoe industry and all the connections he has made over the years.”

Shamour Talbert, 18, Sharpsville, PA Attends : Clarion University of Pennsylvania Major : Biology with a concentration in Medical Technology Talbert wants to become a medical technologist who analyzes cells to check for diseases and reports findings to the doctors so they can give diagnoses and treatment options. She found out about Two Ten’s scholarship program through her mother, who has worked at Reyers in Sharon, PA, for 28 years. Talbert couldn’t believe that she had been awarded the scholarship, having applied and been turned down by so many up to that point. Two Ten is the only scholarship she has received. “I was in shock and so very thankful,” she says. “I couldn’t attend Clarion—or college, for that matter—without it.” Talbert, the first in her family to attend college, notes that her mother talks about the shoe business all the time. “She has a network of friends and co-workers that has been together for years,” she says.

Mary Klaire Carbonie, 18, Birmingham, AL Attends : Troy University Major : Early Childhood Education After earning her degree, Carbonie’s dream is to travel to Peru or Guatemala to teach in an orphanage. She has already visited Peruvian orphanages with her church group and currently sponsors a boy. Her mother, Marilyn, would like her daughter to stay closer to home and teach inner-city children in their hometown and visit Peru or Guatemala in the summers to work in the orphanages. The Carbonie family is no stranger to the Two Ten scholarship program as all three of its daughters have been award recipients. Father, Ken, is a thirdgeneration cobbler who owns Cahaba Heights Shoe Repair in Vestavia, AL. He first learned of the program through his leather supplier, Southern Leather Co. in Memphis, TN. “The scholarship is a great resource for all of our daughters to get to college,” he says, noting this was the only scholarship his youngest daughter received. “It sure does make a difference, and every bit helps. We are very grateful. We feel all of our daughters will make a positive difference in the world.” “Two Ten has blessed both my sisters and now myself,” Carbonie says. “I couldn’t be more thankful for the generosity and support given to our family from the Two Ten Foundation.” Carbonie cites her father’s hard work and dedication as inspiration. “I’ve worked with my parents in the shop quite a few times and loved it,” she says. “The interaction with customers is my favorite part because people are so nice and friendly, which makes the job easier.”

2015 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

I n 2 0 1 5 , Tw o Te n Fo o t w e a r Fo u n d a t i o n a w a r d e d a t o t a l o f $870,000 in scholarship funds to 310 students nationwide.

an education,” Ferrée says. “That’s why I firmly believe we are doing great work to help change shoepeople’s lives.” Neal Newman, president of Two Ten, can relate. With one daughter currently in college and a second one about to enter next year, the intense pressure of tuition is hitting him hard. Newman says the costs are astronomical, and that’s one reason why he is committed to getting the word out to the entire industry that Two Ten is here to help alleviate the financial burden for as many of those who need it most. “I want Two Ten to be involved in every single footwear family’s decision to send their children to college, and to help every footwear employee obtain a college degree,” he says. Indeed, Two Ten scholarships are open to all footwear employees and their families for twoand four-year undergraduate programs. They are awarded based on financial need, academic ability and personal promise. The only problem: More people need to know this lifeline of funding is available. That’s why Two Ten is partnering with Footwear Plus for the 2015–16 scholarship year to get the word out to as many industry members as possible, particularly independent retailers as only three percent of its scholarship applicants comes from that tier. “We have long recognized the importance of independent retailers in our industry, and we know that Footwear Plus will help us reach a broader cross-section of independent retailers coast-to-coast,” Ferrée says, noting that another goal is to get more shoepeople currently employed to take advantage of its scholarships. “This year, 27 percent of our scholars are currently employed in the industry. We would like to see that increase substantially over the next few years with Footwear Plus involved.” The current scholarship application period kicked off at the beginning of this month and is open until Mar. 31, 2016. Those interested can log onto twoten.org/what-we-do/sholarships for details and to apply. In addition to the aforementioned applicant parameters (financial need being the highest criteria), Newman notes

22 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

that several new program initiatives are being introduced this year, including specialized funds for employees and children of employees of independent retailers (sponsored by Footwear Plus), members of National Shoe Travelers organization, students studying footwear design and Footwear Warriors, which is targeted at veterans who work in the industry. In addition, Newman notes that with 40 percent of this year’s recipients being the first in their families to attend college, Two Ten is raising $50,000 earmarked for its First in Family Scholarship Fund in order to extend the program. Ferrée is excited about the new scholarship opportunities for this year, noting that another high priority is improving the graduation rates of its scholars. “We are doubling down on our commitment to supporting them through their educational journey and beyond, be it toolkits, moral support, additional financial support for things like books or tutors, and internships at footwear companies,” she explains, adding that Two Ten is also looking at ways it can increase access to higher education for more industry members even if it doesn’t involve a scholarship. “For example, we are introducing models of satellite and online college degree programs to a group of companies who are eager to build talent and promotable skills within their workforce,” she says. It goes without saying that the Two Ten Scholarship Program is always open to receive donations. The more that is donated, the more people Two Ten can help fulfill their higher education dreams. “It’s heartbreaking to know that there are students who dream of a college education—who come from families that cannot contribute anything to tuition—that were qualified but the funds ran out this year,” Ferrée says. “It’s why we are actively raising an additional $2 million in funds for our endowed permanent scholarships, for a total of 30 additional scholarships a year.” To make a donation to Two Ten’s scholarship fund, or any of its charitable initiatives, log onto twoten.org/donate. •

Eric Armitage, 20, Barneveld, NY Attends : SUNY Institute of Technology at Utica-Rome Major : Accounting First stop upon graduating college for Armitage is taking the CPA exam in order to land a job in the tax field. He found out about the Two Ten Scholarship Program through his manager and district manager at Super Shoes in nearby Trenton, where he has worked for more than three years. He says the application process wasn’t difficult, which he appreciated. “I tried for other scholarships, but they were very difficult to apply for or obtain,” he says. “The Two Ten one was easy to fill out— almost like they wanted to make it easy for shoepeople to apply.” He adds, “It seemed almost too good to be true when I found out I was getting the Two Ten scholarship. As a senior associate at Super Shoes (similar to the duties of an assistant manager), Armitage describes his job as being like a renaissance man. “I do a little bit of everything,” he says. “It’s a really nice place to work.” Armitage is paying for college on his own and the accountant-in-training doesn’t want college loans hanging over his head. “The scholarship will ensure that I am debt-free upon graduation,” he says. “I couldn’t do it without Two Ten.” Stephanie Dwyer, 36, Franklin, WI Attends: Milwaukee Area Technical College Major: Business Management Dwyer, who is going to school parttime at night, works in the IT department at a local Foot Locker and hopes to move into its IT management upon graduation. She found out about the scholarship program after seeing a poster hanging on the wall in the staffroom. Foot Locker is a major supporter of all of Two Ten Footwear Foundation’s programs and services. “I was extremely excited to find out that I was receiving the Two Ten scholarship,” Dwyer says. “This is my second year getting this scholarship, and it is the only reason I can go to college.” Dwyer is the first in her family to attend college. “Without the support of Two Ten, I wouldn’t be able to fulfill my dreams of advancing in my field of work.” She adds. “I want to give Two Ten a huge thank you for believing in me.”

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D R . S C H O L L’ S E X E R C I S E SA N DA L

For 50 years and counting, Dr. Scholl’s Exercise Sandal has appealed to a mash-up of consumers spanning young, old, celebrities, style-obsessed and foot-ailment-afflicted. By Laurie Cone in the early ’60s, becoming an instant hit. Comfort and toning benefits aside, women saw the Exercise Sandal as stylish. Helping spread the word was the fact that some of its original customers were equally stylish (and famous), including Jean Shrimpton, Twiggy and Audrey Hepburn. Moore cites supermodel Shrimpton as one of the first to lend the sandal iconic status. “In 1965, she wore it with a mini-dress to a derby in Australia and it took off as a fashion icon,” she notes. The model was often spotted pairing the sandal with more casual attire as well, helping cement it as a timeless, wear-withanything shoe. Sales skyrocketed and, in 1972, more than one million pairs were sold in the U.S. alone. The momentum continued through the ’70s, but peaked in the early ’80s when it fell out of style, perhaps in response to the ensuing athletic footwear boom. But, like many iconic shoe styles, the Exercise Sandal received new life in 1993 when designer Isaac Mizrahi chose it to complement his runway show. About a decade later, it was reinvigorated once again, receiving the ultimate style vote of approval when Sarah Jessica Parker’s character, Carrie Bradshaw, wore a pink pair in a Sex and the City episode. Not only did Mizrahi and Bradshaw re-boot the sandal’s visibility, Meghan Cleary, footwear expert and co-founder of Meghan Says Shoes, believes both contexts confirmed the shoe’s iconic status because they made the sandal feel new again. “That is really the testament to something that can stand the test of time—it can feel different and appropriate in different contexts,” Cleary explains. Danny Wasserman, owner of New York’s Tip Top Shoes, can attest to the longstanding popularity of the Exercise Sandal: his shop has been steadily selling the style for 40-plus years. “When they first started selling beyond drug stores, we were one of the first to carry them,” Wasserman says. “We had at least four or five people every morning before we opened waiting to get the Dr. Scholl’s sandals.” He attributes the craze to the style’s uniqueness. “At the time, there was really nothing else like it,” he says, adding, “No one knew what Birkenstocks were in this country back then.” And Wasserman notes that the style is performing well of late at Tip Top. “It ranks right up there, especially online,” he says, attributing

Craze Exercise

THE ORIGIN OF the iconic Dr. Scholl’s Exercise Sandal actually dates back to 1882— the year William M. Scholl (a.k.a. Dr. Scholl) was born into a family of 13 children living on an Indiana dairy farm. Fortunately for the footwear industry, a life of milking cows was not for Scholl so, at age 16, he set out for the bright lights of Chicago and, in a twist of fate, became an apprentice in a shoemaker’s shop. It was there that Scholl immediately noticed the disproportionate number of customers complaining of discomfort and became fascinated with the foot. He soon enrolled in Illinois Medical College (now Loyola University) and earned a medical degree in 1904. Though he never entered into practice, the comfort footwear and accessories empire—led by his iconic Exercise Sandal—that he went on to build continues to help millions of his “patients” today. 24 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

“He was an entrepreneur and a visionary,” says Katie Moore, senior designer and brand director for Dr. Scholl’s, a division of Caleres. “His passion was foot care, and he also liked to travel a lot.” It was on one of his many trips to Europe that Scholl came across a vintage wooden clog and, harkening back to the complaints he heard in the shoe shop, honed in on what would become the Exercise Sandal. Specifically, Scholl focused on an anatomical footbed and a crest in the toe area for grip. The unique grip was also designed to activate the wearer’s leg muscles. “That’s where the exercise element comes in,” Moore explains. “He thought if your feet hurt, you hurt all over. He was thinking about the whole body.” His transformed European clog, which became the Exercise Sandal, was completed in 1959. The style began appearing in drug stores

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D R . S C H O L L’ S E X E R C I S E SA N DA L

Dr. Scholl’s x Sportie LA Dr. Scholl’s x Lord & Taylor

the popularity to four factors: an emphasis on healthy living, a growing preference for natural materials, credence in the brand name and the wooden clog trend. Cleary offers another simple explanation as to why the popularity of the Exercise Sandal continues to be strong. “It’s really easy to wear,” she says. “You just slip them on and go, and they’re really versatile.” Cleary finds them more stylish than flip-flops and appropriate to pair with everything from pants to shirts to skirts to dresses. She notes that the current popularity of Gucci fur-lined slip-ons and Adidas slides as additional factors helping sales of the Exercise Sandal. “They’re a lot of slip-ons going on across the board,” she says. “What’s old is new again. We see that in fashion all the time, and the Exercise Sandal keeps getting embraced by a new generation and a new cycle of fashion.” Moore concurs that the Exercise Sandal is on an upswing of late. “We feel like we’re going through another resurgence with the ’70s wood construction trend,” she says, adding it’s in step with an overall ’70s fashion revival as well. “As the ’70s trend continues, we see the sandal exploding even more,” she notes. While the original wood-and-leather styles remain the most popular, Moore says the brand continues to introduce updates to keep things fresh. “This spring, we’re adding color to the wood and an all-over lacquer,” she says. “It’s a fun silhouette to play with.” Along those lines, there have been a handful of limited-edition collaborations with the likes of Burberry, Paul Frank, Lord & Taylor, Steven Alan and Sportie LA keeping the Exercise Sandal current. The Lord & Taylor collab featured two versions this summer: a geometric black-and-white print and a pink suede on the classic wood-bottom sole. “This collaboration provided a great opportunity for the brand to be introduced, and in some cases, reintroduced to the Lord & Taylor customer,” Moore maintains. The Sportie LA collab kicked it up a notch, featuring renowned graffiti artist Evol customizing Exercise Sandals at the official launch party this past February. The collection spanned all-over monochromatic color treatments in white, silver, gold and black as well as a leopard print upper on a black sole. “From its unique styling to its vast 26 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

reach over the years, it has been an unwavering presence in the shoe industry for decades” offers Isack Fadlon, owner of Sportie LA, describing the original Exercise Sandal as truly iconic. “Heritage and authenticity are important for us and our customers, and this partnership tapped deeply into both,” he says, noting the success of the collab. Specifically, Fadlon cites altering the color of the wood sole as a fresh interpretation. “We strive to offer our customers not only unique products, but authentic products,” he says. “With our Exercise Sandal collab we were able to offer both—it’s American fashion at its best.” Another factor contributing to the Exercise Sandal’s continued success lies in its growing nostalgia factor. “Everyone has a story about her Dr. Scholl’s sandals—you wear it now and your mom wore it,” Moore offers. “It takes you back to a place in time.” She notes that today’s target customer is not unlike the women who first started wearing the style decades ago: “She’s independent, classic and chic; she’s got a strong sense of self and style and she’s balancing career and family.” To address the modern customer’s needs, Dr. Scholl’s launched a new Original Collection last fall influenced by the Exercise Sandal (considered the foundation of the brand), but including additional silhouettes spanning wooden wedges, flatforms, booties, pointed toe flats and slipon sneakers. Of course, comfort is key. “What we’ve done and will continue to do is make sure our founder’s intentions remain, but move forward with styles and trends,” Moore says. “The Exercise Sandal has been so iconic throughout the years; I don’t see it ever going away.” •

Left to right: Supermodel Jean Shrimpton; Sarah Jessica Parker as Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City.

Graffiti artist Evol’s handiwork at the Dr. Scholl’s x Sportie LA launch party.

Dr. Scholl’s ads circa the 1970s. Dr. Scholl’s x Burberry

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W H AT ’S S E L L I N G

Boutiques

What’s the biggest challenge currently facing your business? It’s a continuous struggle to keep a smile on your face as a customer sits in your store and buys a shoe on their phone. Fortunately, there’s a big push in Charleston’s community to shop local. Groups of merchants—from grocers to furniture to fashion—have gotten behind it, and the people of Charleston have been very supportive. What’s the smartest business move you’ve made this year? We cut back a bit on the number of styles we offer in favor of chasing shoes that turn out to be bestsellers. Would you say your customers are, in general, more optimistic about their ability to shop? Yes. We think our customers like our price points and what they’re getting for their money. They might come in looking to buy one pair but walk out with two or three because they like what we have for the price.

SHOES ON KING Charleston, SC NOWN FOR ITS quaint cobblestone streets, pre–Civil War architecture and Southern hospitality, Charleston, SC, is a hotspot for tourists, college students and lifelong residents alike. Dubbed “America’s most friendly city” by Travel + Leisure and “the most polite and hospitable city in America” by Southern Living, Shoes on King owner Catherine Boardman and manager Anthony Brown make sure their store lives up to its hometown’s affable reputation. Situated in the heart of the historic King Street fashion district, Shoes on King offers an eclectic and ever-changing array of women’s fashion brands at reasonable prices—the store’s mantra is: “You don’t have to pay exorbitant prices for quality footwear.” Since opening in 2012—three years after sister-store, Shoes at Surrey opened in Augusta, GA—Boardman describes the 3,400-square-foot space as more of a salon, highlighted by luxe lighting and comfy seating. Targeting on-trend women at every age, the shop sets itself apart by taking risks on emerging designers and unknown brands and juxtaposing them with tried-and-trues like Jeffrey Campbell, Hunter and Frye. “We were one of the first independent boutiques to carry Freebird,” Boardman offers. “Now, we have our eye on several South American designers including Peru’s Fortress of Inca.” —Ann Loynd

If you could have done one thing differently in the past year, what would it have been? We would have bought less flip-flops for spring and fewer tall boots for fall. We have a huge contingent of shoppers who are tourists from the Northeast, so we don't think it's due to the weather. Rather, the short boot is more the trend for our fashionable lady, and it doesn't have a season. Is there anything missing in the market right now fashion-wise? Oh gosh, there are so many good shoes out there! It’s not necessarily that there’s something missing, but we’re interested to see what’s going to replace the short boot. Is there any trend you would like to see go away? The flatform. What trends are you high on for spring? We’re seeing some interest in mixed-media and graphic design. For example, Bucketfeet, which we’ve carried for more than a year, and Alice + Olivia, which we are bringing in, are definitely on those trends. And we’re curious to see how the consumer reacts to wood bottoms, which was a huge trend at market.

How’s business of late? We’ve seen a slight increase from last year. It’s been a tough year for tall boots, but our bootie and short-boot business is very strong. Brands like Jeffrey Campbell, Hunter and Sam Edelman have all done really well. Is there an “it” shoe this season? Definitely the flat bootie—Freebird, Johnston & Murphy and Dolce Vita all have great models retailing for about $130 to $275. What’s been the best new label you’ve added into the mix this year? Sorel— their waterproof boots are awesome. We carry the Slimpack riding boot, Joan of Arctic, Out N About and Tofino models. What are your best-selling accessories? Happy Socks are a hit. And our Eyebobs readers do very well. 28 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

Are there any up-and-coming designers you’re keen on? We’re keeping a close eye on Huma Blanco from Peru, and we have bucks on Dee Keller. We love the new Bettye Muller and, though she’s not a new brand, we’re excited to bring Tory Burch in for spring. Any New Year’s resolutions? Fewer markdowns.

This spring, over 7000 footwear employees will come together to give back. Will you?

E-mail kbutler@twoten.org or visit www.twoten.org/footwearcares to sign up.

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2015: THE YEAR IN REVIEW

LOOKING BACK AND FORWARD OVER THE PAST year, the fashion pages of Footwear Plus have featured numerous trends. Coverage began with the Fall ’15 market and, during the second half of the year, zeroed in on the Spring ’16 season. It’s a unique calendar year perspective that includes a season that is nearing its end and one about to launch. It enables us to look back at trends that verified (booties, statement sneakers,

metallics and pretty much anything ’70s-inspired, to cite a few) and ones that fell short of expectations (no need to go there again). Equally enticing are highlights of another upcoming season filled with potential hits (we’d bet good money on ’70s-era clogs and suspect sneakers will have plenty of jump). What else might catch on this spring? Hindsight is 20/20, but in the meantime, it’s all pretty to look at.

THIS JUST IN

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SHORT AND SWEET

EDITOR’S PICKS

A transitional silhouette, short boots make a snappy statement before the deep snows of winter arrive. Photography by Melodie Jeng

Peep Show

Teva

Open-toe booties show a little skin on mild fall days.

Peter Nappi

BOOTIES

Wolverine 1883

Naot

T R E N D S P OT T I N G P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

Chippewa

Hush Puppies

and modern design and wants to be different,” Waldman adds. Pai agrees: “What we’re really doing is designing more of the things that we like to see people wear and things that we remember as our

44 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

Vogue

Hsuan Pai and Harel Waldman

THIS JUST IN

Klub Nico

What is your first shoe memory? Pai: I had these hand-me-down brown boots from my favorite cousin that I wore everywhere because I thought they were the coolest things. There are even photos of me when I was 4 years old wearing those boots with bright red

GENTLEMEN’S BOOTS

Easy Street

There’s no perfect foot,

Waldman: Hidden vinPai: I shop online a , lustcovetdesire.

Which shoes in your closet are getting the most Sneakers. I’m obsessed with Raf Simons and the hybrid Bernhard Willhelm collaboMy black Loeffler Randall

Which trends do you hope to never see again? None. I love watching the trends come back. It does make me feel old because I think everything is now recycled, but it’s fun to see how people reinter-

LONDON GENTRY Dapper and debonair dudes sport their style A game. Photography by Melodie Jeng 18 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

30 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

Which designers do you admire most? Pai: Martin Margiela and Helmut Lang. Waldman: Rei Kawakubo and Ann Demeulemeester. You can always try harder. The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.

Very Volatile

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

Summit White Moutain 3 5

Got Sole?

Thick lug bottoms elevate classic silhouettes to the next level of cool. 1. Sorel 2. Cat Footwear 3. Palladium 4. All Black 5. Vogue 6. Coolway 7. Melissa

30 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

2 1

PASTELS

T R E N D S P OT T I N G 2 4

6 5

Tech Startup

Sporty outsoles paired with elevated neutral uppers look at once contemporary and classic. 1. Blossom Girl 2. Mootsies Tootsies 3. Kork-Ease 4. Furla 5. Miz Mooz 6. Bella Vita 7. Wonders

ES 11

PAIRED

WITH

P H OTOG RAPH Y BY T IM JON ES

SPORTY SOLES

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2015

EEK

Pastel, Present, Future

THE

UPPERS

SECOND

(OR

USHER IS

THIS

) COMING OF GRUNGE. Chalky hues look chic, not cliché, on streamlined silhouettes.

PH OTOGRAPH Y BY TIM JONES

7 8 9 10

1. Latigo 2. Antelope 3. Geox 4. SAS 5. Wolverine 6. Seychelles 7. Rockport 8. Birkenstock 9. Jambu 10. Bella Vita 11. Nina Originals 12. Teva

THIS JUST IN

BC Footwear kiltie loafer, Charles David wingtip derby. Opposite page: Chelsea boots by Matt Bernson.

THIS JUST IN

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

KICKS STARTER Fashion Week goers in London and Milan went casual, trading towering heels for cool kicks and effortless street-style chic. Photography by Melodie Jeng 1

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2015

STATEMENT SNEAKERS

HOMME BOYS The gentlemen of Paris Fashion Week brought a certain je ne sais quoi to street style with a heavy accent on casual kicks. Photography by Melodie Jeng

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2015

Crocodile Rock

Exotic textures add some upscale bite to casual kicks. 1. Ecco 2. Creative Recreation 3. Superga

Robert Graham paint splattered slip-on.

2015 december • footwearplusmagazine.com 31

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

METALLICS

EDITOR’S PICKS

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Sey Collection

Lace Is More

Summit White Mountain

Pointed toe flats hang on for spring with luxe materials and tasteful ties.

Silver Bullets Gunmetal adds a shot of gritty bling to classic silhouettes.

Mia

1. Marc Fisher 2. Frēda Salvador 3. Dr. Scholl’s 4. H Williams

1. Born 2. D.usk 3. Smac Studio 4. Sofft

LOOSE ENDS

PHOTO G RAP HY BY TI M JO N ES

46 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2015

LACE-UPS

44 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2015

EDITOR’S PICKS

CLOGS

Into the Woods

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

EDITOR’S PICKS 2

Comfort silhouettes pack a little more substance.

Match Point Sneakers skip the gym with pointed toes and luxe materials.

Gx by Gwen Stefani

Latigo

Adrianna Papell

l’s fondness for all that ndsay McGregor

When my hospital with my ears old. I jumped e walked in and she th her high heels. being stepped on, what that she was wearing Cordani

ld love to see in oria Beckham, Kerry and Miranda Kerr. trong sense of who e fashion risks. Bergdorf Goodman hands down the most

3 Dansko

Nancy hip and quality is out

t of your job? collaborate with a le across every aspect ds-on and creating ch talented individuetty spectacular. I feel t I do every day.

Calleen Cordero

Point Taken

Loafers are streamlined for a sleeker and dressier silhouette.

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

et are getting the ldren under the age of

1. Charles David 2. Joe’s Jeans 3. Herchcovitch; Alexandre x Melissa

All Black

42 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

POINTED TOES

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

2 1

4 Soludos leather espadrilles. Opposite page: AgilisBarcelona snake-embossed espadrilles, black leather espadrilles by Artola Brooklyn, Natural World canvas espadrille with lace-up details.

WHITE SNEAKERS 32 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

Roped In

Couture-inspired details secure espadrilles’ place as a summertime staple. 63

1. Toni Pons 2. Fortress of Inca 3. Marc Fisher 4. Bernardo 5. AgilisBarcelona 6. André Assous 7. Joy & Mario 8. Adrianna Papell

34 footwearplusmagazine.com • august 2015

ESPADRILLES

www.gabor.de

Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

Tel: (800) 361-3466 - info@kannercorp.net

Badgley Mischka jewel-encrusted sandals, Peter Pilotto sweater, belt by Yazbukey, H&M leggings, Laruicci earrings.

Above and oppsite page: Jerome C. Rousseau platform sandals, dress by Hathairat, I Still Love You NYC glasses.

SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker embellished T-strap stilettos, tunic by Jean Paul Gaultier, Marc by Marc Jacobs blouse, earrings by Haus of Topper, John Brevard ring, clutch by Fendi.

Rene Caovilla ankle-wrap stilettos, dress by Cynthia Rowley, I Still Love You NYC headpiece. Opposite page: Charles by Charles David rainbow-stripe pumps, top and skirt by Linie, Fogal socks, I Still Love You NYC earrings. 40

Platform sandals with floral detail by Malone Souliers, dress by Sandro. Opposite page: Diane von Furstenberg strappy sandals with lucite heels, Apuletown dress, Harrison Morgan bracelet, Cynthia Rowley glasses. Fashion Editor: Tara Anne Dalbow; stylist: Edda Gudmundsdottir; hair and makeup: Tinna Empera/Cloutier Remix; model: Mary-Margaret H./ Major Model Management; choreographer: Benoit-Swan Pouffer; assistant stylist: Brynja Skjaldardottir. Shot on location at Rumpus Room, NYC.

EDITOR’S PICKS

Easy Spirit

D E S I G N E R C H AT

ARUNA SETH

What’s the theme for your Spring ’16 collection? The collection is called Universe, because it’s out of this world. It features 44 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

Marion Parke

French Sole

B L O C K PA R T Y Tra d e to w e ri n g s t i le tt o s fo r lady li ke (a n d c o mfy) s quare h eels .

jewel tones, like blues and pinks, borrowed from a Middle Eastern palette. Flats and heels still have our signature butterfly embellishment, but are textured with what we’re calling candy crushing, which resembles beading. How important is the made in Italy aspect? Italy is an institution when it comes to creating shoes. Families have been creating shoes for generations, and the skills have been passed down. There is no better place to create shoes. Where do you look for inspiration and materials? India is one of the best places to travel for design and material inspiration because of the vivid colors. I love Kowloon in Hong Kong, too. You come across every shoe trim you could ever imagine there.

Do you attend any tradeshows to source fabrics? Première Vision Paris is always great for new fabrics. What are the biggest challenges facing footwear designers today? It is very expensive to create a collection as samples and factories are so pricey— and that’s just the beginning. After that comes marketing and travel...The list is endless! What part of the design process do you find most rewarding? I love the whole process of creating a new design, which can take approximately 12 to 14 weeks from idea to completion. I love the research involved in dreaming up a new shoe to putting the drawing down on paper, to working with the factory and seeing it come to life.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T I M J O N E S

ARUNA SETH IS in touch with her inner princess. Take, for example, how she describes the inspiration behind her eponymous brand, Aruna Seth Shoes, in decidedly fairytale terms. “I always imagined a secret garden where butterflies circled flowers, princesses wore sparkly shoes and magic happened.” Her favorite book as a child? The Secret Garden. Fittingly, the signature embellishment of her collection is a crystal butterfly. It isn’t all make-believe, however, for the savvy entrepreneur. Seth earned her shoe design chops at the London College of Fashion and possesses a background in investment banking. She also hails from a shoe industry family: Her father, Geoff Seth, has been in the business for more than 50 years, building Ascot International Sports and Footwear Limited. “My father is incredibly determined, and I have always admired his drive and ability to build a business from scratch,” Seth notes. The apple didn’t fall far from the tree. Since launching in 2009 in London’s upscale Chelsea neighborhood, the label has spread around the globe. “We have gained stockists all over the world, from Fifty One East in Qatar to Neiman Marcus in the U.S., and we are moving into Asia more too,” Seth reports. As for Chelsea serving as the launching pad, Seth notes the nabe’s inspirational beauty as well as its ability to attract celebrities, citing Pippa Middleton and Kate Hudson as fans of her brand. Seth’s customers are drawn to the fine materials she uses— like suede, python and satin—and the fact that the collection is handcrafted in Italy. “Our clients are ladies who love beautiful items and appreciate quality, heritage and craftsmanship,” she explains. “Our brand very much appeals to the socialite set whether it be in New York, London or Saint-Tropez.” As such, the glam quotient—and oftentimes heel height—is high. But, Seth also offers an array of flats and includes extra footbed padding for additional comfort to appeal to celebrities, fashionistas and mothers and daughters alike. “I want to inspire elegance and glamour,” she says. —Laurie Cone

continued from page 10/Prophet Sharing provide. That experience is the unique alchemy of your store design, merchandising, engaged staff, sounds and scents. Great brands map every element of the customer experience in detail and execute them all flawlessly. What are some of your favorite “unique” retailers? Why do you like them? I like a wide range of retailers for different reasons, but in terms of uniqueness, there is one that I think every retailer should take the time to visit at least once. Bass Pro Shops are simply best-in-class at capturing the essence of the outdoor experience and bringing it into their stores. They also back the experience up with people who absolutely love the things they’re selling and like talking to customers about them. People bring their entire families with them to Bass Pro as an outing. I would throw down the challenge to any retailer to be the Bass Pro Shops of what you sell. But great retail isn’t restricted to big brands like Bass Pro Shops. Some of the best retail experiences I’ve had around the world have been in small to medium-sized independent shops. For me, it’s the art, beauty and entrepreneurial passion that the owner puts into the store that really makes me want to buy something and that forges a lasting memory of my time there. You’ve said it takes courage for retailers to change. For example? During the mid-2000s, after decades of tremendous success, Starbucks faltered. They had overextended distribution, a recession was setting in and the quality of product and experience began to suffer. After an eight-year sabbatical, Howard Schultz returned to the role of CEO and promptly closed 900 stores. Schultz and Starbucks vowed never again to let growth become the sole business objective at the expense of quality. They redesigned their product offering, adopted a local design ethos for their stores and reenergized their staff training programs. This change in philosophy meant standing up to investors who wanted double-digit stock returns at any cost, and that takes courage.

How can shoe retailers implement the concept of courageous change? Any great business has to first be crystal clear about what it stands for, not only with respect to the value it delivers to customers, but about its higher existential purpose. Patagonia clothing, for example, operates with the mission to use its business to help find solutions to the world’s environmental crisis. They do this by making outstanding clothing that is sustainably manufactured. This mission guides every decision they make. Retailers need to set their own course and have the courage to act very differently from their competitors. It’s so easy, especially when the market is tough, to get drawn into thinking and acting like your direct competitors, but it’s a mistake to do so. It takes more courage to break the rules and challenge the norms. You’ve called this the “golden age” of retail. Some would disagree. I maintain that it’s the golden age of retail precisely because we have crossed into an era where being Macy’s or Nordstrom is no longer enough to guarantee success. The next great retailing icon could be a 22-year-old who gets funded by Kickstarter, starts in her parents’ basement and grows into a billion-dollar business on Instagram. You no longer need massive amounts of capital, manpower and physical assets to break into a market. In the digital age, anyone with a remarkable idea or a well-designed product or service that meets a need has an equal shot at becoming successful. It’s happening all around us! What makes you believe that the physical aspect of shopping is about more than just buying necessary goods? There will always be times when we need to hit the mall to satisfy an immediate product need, but shopping is about more than just acquisition. It’s a human, social need. We shop for entertainment, for relaxation and also, I think, for a sense of social connection to our community. The more a retailer can incorporate the human aspects of retail into his business, the more successful he’s likely to be and the more fulfilling his work will become. •

E - B E AT

BUYER CHAT

Scott Starbuck City Soles

Click Click Boom Zmags delivers instant digital gratification.

A RECENT MARKETING study featured in Time magazine found that 55 percent of web pages get less than 15 seconds of attention, and people start abandoning sites after just two seconds. Those are some cold, hard statistics for retailers trying to capture the attention of increasingly time-pressed and addled shoppers and, more importantly, keep them engaged all the way through an actual purchase. Making matters more difficult are the high costs involved with creating one’s own content and site upkeep or choosing a third party, template-based service where lengthy turnaround times

Zmags’ shop-and-click catalog for Neiman Marcus.

and cookie-cutter designs are the norm. But there’s an alternative—so says Brian Rigney, CEO of Zmags, a subscription software service that allows retailers to easily create and manage their own sites by adding experiences that are interactive and directly shoppable. Dubbed “Powerpoint for the web,” the company’s Creator SaaS (software as a service) enables retailers to quickly add content to their sites with zero coding required. “People have described it as easy-to-use and quick to learn,” Rigney says. Here’s how it works: Users log into an online, server-based platform to access an interface that allows them to name and size each experience, add text, embed URLs and incorporate videos and animation—all with drag-and-drop widgets. It’s easy, and it’s quick. Contract signing to live content takes only a matter of days, Rigney says. Consumers can then browse through a retailer’s lifestyle shots, look-books, trend pages and editorials, and by clicking the plus-sign on a particular item, an option

to purchase opens on that page. The program has been proven to drive conversion rates. For example, Rigney cites Boathouse, a mid-sized swim and apparel retailer with an online presence and 30 brick-and-mortar stores in Canada, who saw an 85-percent increase in conversion rates and increased dwell time (from an average of 30 seconds to upwards of five minutes) after switching to Creator. Brahmin handbags, he notes, saw a 111-percent increase in conversion rate after enlisting the software. What makes Creator accessible to smaller and mid-tier retailers (as well as market heavyweights such as Neiman Marcus) is its traffic-based price point. Users subscribe to a one-year or multiyear license that costs anywhere from “midlow five figures to mid-low six figures” depending on hits. “We don’t charge based on number of users or (shoppable) experiences uploaded,” explains Rigney. “Neiman Marcus has 150 of these experiences live throughout its site, so you can publish a lot. It’s priced on how many visitors your reader has—you can have quite a bit of fun with it.” He notes that New York & Company, for example, has delved into more advanced options like fade-in effects for its trend pages and has worked with a more mobile-geared layout. Regardless, the output is adaptive and will respond to most responsive sites on any device. Zmags also offers Publicator, a software system that creates shoppable catalogs and look books from a PDF. (Costs are in the mid-high four-figure price range per experience.) “We had one really large shoe e-commerce retailer use this, and they saw higher order values,” notes Rigney, adding that its software helps retailers create an identity in what is a competitive and crowded field. It’s all about trying to capture the attention of shoppers and make them linger until they make a purchase. “Build a brand and build the experience,” Rigney offers. “Using large, rich images and thinking mobile can really draw the reader in.” —Ann Loynd

46 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

THERE ARE FEW guarantees in life, but City Soles—a Chicago-based shoe store with an impressive e-commerce presence—has one for its customers: Each online purchase comes with compliments guaranteed, and the store will discount shoppers’ subsequent buys if they don’t get the desired feedback. City Soles owner and buyer Scott Starbuck knows he can fulfill that promise by offering designs you can’t find (nearly) anywhere else. “I try to seek out lines that are independent—smaller, indie brands and up-and-comers—to maintain our individuality and keep our customer-base happy,” he explains. “They don’t want what others have, and we believe that consumers can buy less but buy better—a $350 pair of handmade black leather boots will last for years.” To that end Starbuck seeks out up-and-coming brands that are well-made with quality materials and unique styling—and you won’t see them on Zappos. What’s more, he goes above and beyond to educate his customers on why each shoe City Soles carries is special. That includes 60-second videos for every single shoe, explaining features and benefits, fit, where it is made and fashion advice for what to wear them with. City Sole’s curated collection of indie brands retail from about $150 to $500. The men’s mix includes the likes of Gram, Caminando and Noah Waxman, while women’s features Ethem, Andrew Kayla, Artola and Wonders, to cite a few. It’s a merchandise mix appealing to leaders and non-conformists alike. “I don’t go with what marketing and advertising has told me is sophisticated: Grow up and become an attorney so you can drive a Mercedes and wear a Hugo Boss suit,” Starbuck says in regard to his alternative approach to buying. —A.L. Who is your target customer? The post-college career girl and guy who has a disposable income. My customers are from their mid-to-late 20s to whenever they stop wearing cool shoes. Early 50s is our peak clientele, and we have some really rocking grandmas. How does your buying strategy differ for online shoppers? Brick and mortar, our sales are 70-percent women’s and 30-percent men’s, but online we convert 90- to 95-percent women’s. Even young computer-savvy men aren’t doing fashion online as readily as women. What trends are you eying for Spring ’16? Almost everything is in fashion right now: Western, Indian, fringe…The 28- to 48-year-old woman can wear spiky heels and in the same day wear a platform oxford with a pointy toe. But I am seeing a big trend in the Americana movement with young hipsters trying to clean up their game. They’re not getting rid of their piercings and tattoos, rather adding a well-tailored beard and a gentleman’s oxford, for instance. What are some of your favorite brands? Pskaufman is a great line out of Los Angeles, handmade out of a small factory in León, Mexico. Another designer that we just launched and is selling well is a friend of mine in Brooklyn, Atelejé 71.

O&A continued from page 19 ing in a mall is being replaced by in the of buying on your Lost theconvenience flood: Many South Carolinians arecouch. in need of footwear andare clothing donations. But we have to be smart. The omnichannel strategies changing the landscape so quickly and everybodyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;vendors and retailers alikeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;have to be extremely aware of what the consumer wants. If she wants to reserve the shoe online and then pick it up in your store, or see it in your store and then order it onlineâ&#x20AC;ŚThatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just the reality today, and I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see it changing. How might you envision the shoe store as we know it in 10 years? Will it still be found in malls? Will there be malls, for that matter? I think there are going to be less malls, for sure. But I think there will always be a diversity of stores. The market will probably shift where some of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brick-and-mortar giants will be replaced by ones that create great omnichannel experiences. But I think there will still be boutiques where customers want to find something extraordinary and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very under-distributed. I believe there will also still be sit-and-fit stores that have already created a niche thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to be replaced with other formats. Fortunately, people will still need shoes, but the way theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to be purchased will shift. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t give you exact percentages and what I say today might be different or obsolete tomorrow. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why we need to stay on top of the changes as best as we can. What are your goals for next year? We want to primarily build on our existing customer base, be it a bigger presence within those stores and door growth to increase Tamarisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s presence in the market. We also want to continue to improve the service level that we are offering our customers. We are currently working on a system for case pack re-orders. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a big initiative for Wortmann and it marks a first. We hope to introduce that for spring and then open-stock re-order capabilities for fall. Independents like it, but you might be surprised to learn that apparently retailers of all sizes like that option.

Soles4Souls Rallying Call to Aid South Carolina Flood Victims

Having done many (S4S) brandIS launches around the world, South Carolina is ahow highwould you SOLES4SOULS rate Tamarisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to date? priority for us.â&#x20AC;? answering a call for help in Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;mSouth very proud of the first steps that we made into this market. I know itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tiffany Johnson, S4S outCarolina after catastrophjust first steps of a marathon donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;tcoordinator, pat yourself on the this back until takes icthe flooding ravaged the state and youreach you cross the finish line, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been a very encouraging start. The relief effort personally. Sheability to recently. Record rainfallâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;more have brought so many goodthouretailers on board at thein start a platform was raised onetoofbuild the hardthan 25 inchesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;forced that we can launch is extremely encouraging. And tremendous est hit areas andIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve hergot mother sands from theirfrom homes and support. I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;thave just been show declared up at a shoe show or someoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s doorstep still lives there. â&#x20AC;&#x153;As soon aswith we two 20 counties bags of shoe samples.While We have preparedrealized for this launch thoroughly the scope of this, Iand wasthat federal disasters. 17 peohasple made a huge on the phone talking with varilost for their lives,difference. tens of thouous agencies in South Carolina sands more are without power Well, anyone knows difference, you should. about how and when we could andifwater, and manythe others lost Forallsure. I know what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like to be standing at in help,â&#x20AC;? shea shoe says, show notingsomewhere one of of their belongings. Asia and waiting for customers It was verylost challengher [Laughs.] motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s co-workers In response, S4S is issuingtoa find me. ingplea at times. I needed to haveand faith and everything. tell myself that would be â&#x20AC;&#x153;Mytomorrow mother asked to footwear retailers another day and hopefully it would get better. But I put learned a lot from if we could together a fewthose manufactures to assist in a experiences. It taught how to study figure respective pairs ofand shoes forout hertheir co-worker, relief mission. Theme non-profit is markets structures. With respect the U.S., for example, I understand that tenthe estiso I sent casual, dress and partnering with local to emergency mated $55 billion in overall market sizenis is really just a number. You need to shoes,â&#x20AC;? Johnson says, adding responders in order to provide dissect in order to determine relevant market share is that such apotential small, but meaningshoesitand clothing to those what in your and thenâ&#x20AC;&#x153;We startare catering toany it. The be super exciting, if you do that well. gesture, had an enormous need. asking andjob can ful impact. â&#x20AC;&#x153;My mom brought the all retailers or manufacturWhat dodonate you love most about your job? box of shoes to work and her ers to boots, athletic The people in this industry says who, handsco-worker down, arewas some of the nicest overcome with and and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s footwear,â&#x20AC;? most talented and creative people one will ever meet. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t matter if emotion,â&#x20AC;? she says. Brian Granfors, creative directhey fromAdds Australia, Japan, the U.S.,To etc., the shoe is filled torare of S4S. CEO Buddy donate shoesindustry and clothing with really â&#x20AC;&#x153;Responding nice people. Itoalso love, especially in this country, that people Teaster: natural for South Carolina flood victims aredisasters often receptive topart try new things. Iforitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good idea, most people genhas been of the make a monetary donation to erally say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;smission give it afrom shot.â&#x20AC;? And itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sS4S, basically a handshake andatletâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Soles4Souls the contact Pattie Graben 615-go. I also the constant changeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;our industry never stands still. There are verylove beginning and helping 541-7007 or pattieg@soles4souls. always new fashion it never Cone gets boring. â&#x20AC;˘ people getideas backand on their feetinfluences, in org.soâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Laurie

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! Feel free to contact us anytime at circulation@9threads.com or (440) 871-1300 with your questions. june 2008 â&#x20AC;˘ footwearplusmagazine.com 51

LAST WORD

May the Force Be with Shoe

STARSTRUCK Irregular Choice’s Star Wars– themed collection is out of this world. By Ann Loynd

Irregular Choice’s Star Wars collection in collaboration with Disney.

48 footwearplusmagazine.com • december 2015

“ONE OF MY earliest memories was me at age 9 in a cinema with my dad watching The Empire Strikes Back,” muses Irregular Choice founder and designer Dan Sullivan. “He loved telling the story of how I was chewing gum, and every time the movie got exciting, I would chew super fast. I’ve been a big [Star Wars] fan ever since that special day.” It’s only fitting, then, that this lifelong sci-fi fan, whose footwear designs have been equally far out and cutting edge, was tapped by Disney to create an Irregular Choice collaboratoin for the franchise’s latest installation, The Force Awakens. After a yearlong development process, Sullivan debuted the collection last month at the brand’s London flagship to a frenzied response— some fans traveled through the night to nab a pair. “We had one lady who flew from Scotland, ran to the shop, bought her shoes and flew back straight away,” Sullivan says. Launch parties were also held in Japan, Singapore, Hong Kong and Los Angeles. The collection is available in select stores, including Hot Topic locations, Dolls Kill in San Francisco, Akira in Chicago, Aberrant Sole in Dallas and Think Geek in Orlando, as well as inside Disney parks. At press time, nine of the 14 styles—spanning pumps, boots, slippers, oxfords and platforms retailing from $160 to $420—had sold out. Part of the appeal: Sullivan made sure to design a collection that catered to all fans, young and old, male and female. “So many people think that Star Wars is just masculine, but it has a huge female following too,” he offers. “I wanted to see what we could do with heels.” The answer: a spaceship load. Darth Vader, R2-D2 and Yoda (the designer’s favorite) all make an appearance as heel molds. Scrupulous Star Wars fans (aren’t they all?) will appreciate the meticulous attention Sullivan paid to every detail. First, the molds were the best-possible representation of every character, and details like uppers, trims and overall patterns incorporate specific movierelated images and references. For example, the Death Star ankle boots with Darth Vader/Stormtrooper heels feature black metallic leather uppers atop futuristic curved-platform soles, and the Jedi-inspired platform heels in bronze snakeskin-print leather with rope-style laces are topped off with flashing lightsaber heels. The I Know flats feature a vintage-style faded floral pattern with Han Solo and Princess Leia digital prints finished off with intricate floral embroidery. Sullivan also designed each shoe true to its episode, meaning a character from one film is not used alongside any reference not included in that movie. “This is why we couldn’t use Yoda on our outsole prints,” he explains. “We wanted that to tie the collection together, but Yoda wasn’t in every episode.” Star Wars devotees will surely appreciate such respect for authenticity. “I actually enjoyed having some boundaries and seeing how much I could push them whilst still being true to the iconic Star Wars feel,” Sullivan adds. The Star Wars frenzy is currently in hyperspace mode—the trailer for the new film (opening Dec. 18) received more than 88 million views in the first 24 hours. Whoopi Goldberg even sported a pair of Skywalker lightsaber heels on a recent episode of The View. But fans need to grab a pair while they still can. Sullivan says the collection is extremely limited and once they are gone, that’s it. He plans, however, to continue working with Disney and is currently putting the finishing touches on a new collection in conjunction with another famous film release due out this spring.

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