Footwear Plus | February 2015

LIFE AFTER NORMCORE

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J U ST S AY Y E S TO L U G S

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I N - STO R E T EC H I N N O VAT I O N S

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E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S : I N TO T H E W O O D S

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Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Lyndsay McGregor Senior Editor Social Media Editor

FEBRUARY 2015

Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor

20 Life After Normcore The fashion industry ponders what trendsetters might be moving onto next. By Tara Anne Dalbow

Lauren Fusilier Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer

22 Straight from the Source Larry Paparo, CEO of LJP Intl., on the art of sourcing. By Greg Dutter

Judy Leand Contributing Editor

48 A Call to Action Deckers Brands CEO Angel Martinez urges retailers to meet the ongoing shopping revolution head-on.

By Greg Dutter

ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Capri Crescio Advertising Manager Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

52 Future Perfect Crystal ball-gazing with eBay tech guru Steve Yankovich.

By Kathy Passero

Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director

56 Lone Star Karavel Shoes: an Austin, TX, sit-and-fit institution for seven decades. By Lauren Fusilier

Joel Shupp Circulation Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director

60 New Age Retail How technology is re-imagining the shoe store. By Lyndsay McGregor PA G E

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68 The Spirit of ’76 Groovy retro-inspired kicks.

By Lyndsay McGregor 70 Come as You Are Lug soles replay a grunge tune.

By Tara Anne Dalbow 74 A Charmed Life Savile Row fabrics put a polish on fall collections.

By Tara Anne Dalbow 84 Metallica Heavy metals rule for kids.

By Tara Anne Dalbow

12 Editor’s Note 16 This Just In 28 Trend Spotting 66 What’s Selling 88 Shoe Salon 90 E-beat 92 Comfort 94 Kids 96 Last Word

On the cover: GX by Gwen Stefani open-toe tweed mule, Maiyet jumpsuit, top

by Givenchy.

This page: Keds sneakers with wingtip detail, Steven Alan blazer, hand-dyed silk turtle neck and wool skirt by Select Vintage Collections Malin Landaeus.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss; Fashion Editor: Tara Anne Dalbow; stylist: Sara Dunn; hair and makeup: Rita Madison; model: Amanda/Red Model Management.

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

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E D I TO R ’S N OT E Fast Company

THE FUTURE IS NOW Mirror technologies, showroom formats, in-store customization programs— the shopping revolution is upon us.

WELCOME TO OUR tech issue. Admittedly, the theme wasn’t etched in print on our editorial calendar months ago. It came together organically in the weeks leading up to the magazine in your hands.

Often, a theme that arises in real time—as this one did—reflects an industry topic that’s nearing a tipping point.

In this case, it centers on in-store retail technologies (some are already available; others are on the horizon) that are changing the way consumers shop. That’s not necessarily news. What’s noteworthy is that collective resistance to such technologies may (finally) be waning.

Better yet, there are concrete examples of ways these innovations are already re-imagining and re-inventing the in-store shopping experience.

They’re making shopping efficient as well as entertaining—and disproving the old notion that brick-and-mortar retailing is clunky.

Shoe shopping need not be archaic or cumbersome. There are gizmos to streamline the experience. And they don’t require a Steve Jobs clone on staff to implement or manage. Nor are they all price-prohibitive. Besides, the more ubiquitous technologies become, the lower their price drops.

What’s more, millions of consumers are already accustomed to variations on these technologies, thanks to their smartphones, tablets, wearable devices and on-demand services (think Fitbit and Uber, respectively).

People use them on a daily basis, so they’re likely to embrace similar technology in a retail setting. Actually, consumers increasingly expect such capabilities and will likely gravitate to stores that provide them.

So says Steve Yankovich, eBay’s vice president of innovation and new ventures and the subject of our first Footwear Network Series profile in partnership with Deckers Brands (p. 52). The tech guru specializes in bringing cutting-edge technologies to retail to help better engage consumers. Yankovich says it’s all about reducing the “friction” shoppers face in trying to find what they want, making the in-store experience as seamless, efficient and enjoyable as possible. Yankovich, whose track record of success speaks for itself, warns that it’s not a question of whether these technologies will be implemented, but when. Those who ignore tech may well go the way of the rotary phone. Yankovich’s insights and latest innovations (current clients include Nordstrom and Rebecca Minkoff ) are truly sci-fi movie-worthy. They’re also incredibly user-friendly, not to mention practical.

One example of technical-driven practicality is the new showroom concept being ushered in by men’s apparel brand Bonobos, designer Kate Spade (in partnership with eBay) and Solestruck in Portland, OR, 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

among others. Rather than gripe about consumers using their stores to browse and then buy elsewhere online because it’s cheaper or because what they wanted wasn’t in stock, these retailers have incorporated technologies that turn their stores into actual showrooms. Customers browse and buy with a scan or click. Their purchase is then shipped in 24 hours. It’s an economical format involving less square footage (no stockroom, for starters) and less financial risk (barebones inventory). It allows brick-and-mortar retailers to focus on what they are best at: creating an inviting atmosphere to shop a curated selection. It also allows them to spend more time servicing customers instead of running back and forth to the stockroom only to risk returning empty-handed and disappointing a shopper. And the kicker: Today’s consumers like shopping—that pastime remains as popular as ever—but retail experts are discovering that they don’t want to lug bags around. A showroom format eliminates such shopping friction.

For more examples of ways in-store innovations are turning shopping into a form of efficient entertainment, read our “New Age Retail” feature (p. 60). Custom design kiosks, 3-D printing scanners, mall apps—they all prove technology can provide practical answers to help retailers compete in today’s omnichannel landscape.

Lest anyone think all this tech talk spells doom for the shoe store as we know it, we’re not facing an either-or scenario. The best approach is a blend of new-age technologies and old-fashioned service. In fact, Angel Martinez, CEO of Deckers Brands and the subject of our In Focus profile (p. 48), believes the specialty retail approach can be more attractive than ever in an age of faceless automation. Plus, he says, traditional stores hold an ace up their sleeve that can never be matched digitally: the tactile experience of shoe shopping.

The touch, smell and try-on aspects backed by exceptional customer service can make footwear shopping an incomparable experience. But Martinez is blunt: the senses must be stimulated, not repulsed. If specialty shoe retailers do things well, they can flourish going forward, he says. Our industry’s long-term health depends on their survival, Martinez points out, because it’s in the retail environment that brands get introduced to the consumer and learn to thrive by competing against each other.

The alternative? A retail dystopia where one giant online behemoth sells everything to everybody, commoditizing the world. It’s an extreme scenario, but you get the picture: A world with few choices would devastate our industry.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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Life After Normcore

Rumors are swirling that the anti-fashion movement may be on its way out.

Here’s what could be coming next. By Tara Anne Dalbow sion of Normcore without the complications of an over-used moniker that’s T’S ONLY BEEN a year since New York magazine ran a splashy “#trending” on every social media site. trend feature that introduced the Normcore fashion movement Regarding what may follow Normcore, Lucky posted a recent article specto the masses, which, ironically, was a fashion movement that ulating [we presume in jest] that it could be anything from Farmcore (overstemmed from the masses. Hipsters and A-listers took to the antialls) to Snorecore (pajamas). On a more analytical note, Davis predicts a fashion trend that embraced bland, mainstream styling (think heavy sport and tech influence taking hold. “Normore will become more windbreakers, mom jeans and New Balance sneakers) as a way high tech and streamlined with futuristic materials and shapes,” she says. to thumb their collective nose at following the whims of over“The focus will shift toward function.” Davis anticipates metallic details, the-top designers. Perhaps it was a backlash to indulgent conlaser prints, iridescent accents and innovative materials will be important sumerism in a post-financial collapse landscape? A new world in footwear. “Everything is clean, minimal, sporty, technologically advanced fashion order that chose ubiquity as the new black, mainly because it was and sexy,” she says of her Fall ’15 collection. She believes Normcore patrons more affordable to do so. Whatever the causes that gave birth to Normcore, will blend the new with the old. “They’ll mix their retro grandmother style fashion editors, bloggers and stylists analyzed its nuances and reasons for with futuristic, colorful, sport-inspired pieces,” she says, noting that fashion being to, perhaps, its death. Not the look, mind you, because classic stylhouses are already using athletes to proing never really goes out of style. But the mote their goods. Indeed, brands ranging term (“normcore” currently begets more from Burberry to Bobbi Brown are enlistthan one million hits on Google search) ing athletes to further align themselves may be played and the fashion industry with the ongoing ath-leisure trend as the is pondering where trendsetters will be line between sportswear and professional moving next. attire becomes increasingly blurred.

Think evolution, not revolution. And Roger Hardy, vice president of merthat stems largely from Normcore’s inherchandising at SHOEme.ca, echoes a simient qualities of comfort and affordability. lar sporty fashion sentiment taking hold.

“Fashion is often unreachable for most peo“We’ll even see some sort of the athletic ple. [Normcore] consisted of very wearable influence tied to more traditional footpieces,” notes Jeanne Zornada, creative wear,” he predicts. Hardy cites the contindirector for Charles David footwear, addued popularity of comfort styles, but with ing consumers could embrace it with what sport-inspired updates such as bold pops they already had in their closets—or their of color, as playing big this fall. parents’ closets. “People are wearing things Zornada predicts Normcore will evolve because they are comfortable, not because in a more personal direction. “People will they are in fashion,” agrees Ruthie Davis, take what they love from it and personfounder of her eponymous footwear label. alize it,” she says. The motivation to buy Barri Budin, creative director for will shift from having to have what everyMadison Harding, notes that while comone else has, to buying something that will fort is a factor behind Normcore’s popucommunicate personal identity. Thus, she larity there’s also the fact that, “It can be predicts accessories will be key, as they’ll fashionable at times to look like you don’t allow consumers to make clear statements care what’s on trend—remember the ’90s?” about their personal style without having to She predicts Normcore will evolve into an —BARRI BUDIN , CREATIVE DIRECTOR, MADISON HARDING invest in an entirely new look. For Charles overall organic lifestyle movement, playDavid’s fall collection, that translates to a fully coined “Hickster,” that includes homefocus on flats, binding the practicality of a comfort silhouette with sophistibrewed beer, farm-to-table foods and the use of natural materials. “It will come cated design. Zornada adds that unique materials will be important, featurfrom young people retreating from the city and relinquishing their ‘other life’ ing heritage and techy compositions in non-traditional ways to create subtle for a more organic experience,” she predicts. Budin describes the general aesinterests. “Material combinations will define products this season,” she says, thetic as being lumberjack-inspired. Think hand-sewn wool sweaters and noting that heavy-soled oxfords may become the style that replaces Normcore Timberland boots. “The trendsetters that started Normcore are over it—it’s fashion staple, Adidas’ Stan Smith sneaker. not cool to buy New Balance sneakers from Barneys,” she states. “These tasteHarel Waldman, co-founder and designer of Wal & Pai, expects that >93 makers are moving on to something else.” It’s an even further pared down ver-

“THE TRENDSETTERS THAT STARTED NORMCORE ARE OVER IT—IT’S NOT COOL TO BUY NEW BALANCE SNEAKERS FROM BARNEYS. THESE TASTEMAKERS ARE MOVING ON TO SOMETHING ELSE.””

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

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Straight from the Source Sourcing expert Larry Paparo, president and CEO of LJP International, licensee for Nine West Kids, Mootsies Tootsies and Robert Graham, on how its recipe of trust, experience, common sense and old-fashioned hard work is driving growth.

LARRY PAPARO IS a shoe industry lifer. In fact, per his wife’s assessment, the only two things he really knows how to do are take out the garbage and make shoes. Luckily for the Paparo family, the latter is a skill and a career that he excels at, which began back in high school when he was a parttime stock boy at Lester’s in his hometown of Brooklyn, NY. It’s a career trajectory that originated out of happenstance after Paparo’s mother took it upon herself to offer her son’s services to an overwhelmed storeowner who needed a helping hand. Little did anyone know that would lead to a career spanning 30-plus years in retail and wholesale, working in all facets, for such industry heavyweights as Kenneth Cole, Steve Madden and Nine West before Paparo fulfilled a lifelong dream with the launch of his own sourcing company in 2006. Paparo prides himself on having achieved it all through hard work and seizing every opportunity. There were no preordained rites of passage or inside connections. “I don’t come from a family of shoes or money,” he says. “I started from the bottom and worked my way all the way up.”

That’s exactly what Paparo did—fast. How many teenagers, in just two years, go from stocking shelves at $3.35 an hour to managing a store and doing the buying? Paparo did. And over the next five years he would open more Lester’s locations and grow the business into an iconic local apparel 22 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

chain known for its shoe departments. From there, Paparo always kept striving for more. “Steve Madden used to sell me L.J. Simone shoes when I was the buyer at Lester’s,” he recalls. “I would watch all these great salesmen come in and I thought to myself, ‘I want to be that guy.’ And then I saw that the salesmen had a manager, and I wanted to be that guy. And he answered to a president…So I just kept going and going.”

Paparo’s crossover into wholesale began as a sales rep for the Elefanten kids’ brand. After five years of helping put that brand on the map, Kenneth Cole hired him in 1995 to launch its kids’ division. While Paparo was there, the company was the first to introduce takedowns of adult dress and casual styles. “Even when Kenneth [Cole] first approached me with the idea, I didn’t believe it would work,” Paparo recalls. “But we figured out how to do it and it became a big success.” That experience is also where Paparo earned his master’s degree in shoes and where he “learned how to run a company.”

Kenneth Cole was primarily focused on men’s and women’s lines, so Paparo had to be the production manager, the designer, the salesman, the order taker, the marketer, etc. for its kids’ division. He would later add adult lines to his resume as head of the company’s Unlisted women’s brand.

Next came a brief stint at E.S. Originals to launch Rockport Kids, followed by stops at Nine West and Steve Madden. Then Paparo decided he was ready to be his own boss. “I had worked for and had hired lots of people at all of those terrific companies,” he says. “I knew what their needs were from a sourcing perspective.” Paparo saw room for improvement. “I saw companies going directly to factories and working with agents who had no understanding of their business or brand,” he says. “Too often they didn’t know what they were making or what the price needed to be.” Paparo

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O&A knew these brands and their needs and, due to his frequent sourcing trips to China, he had also forged solid relationships—one of which became his silent partner at LJP. LJP jumped out of the blocks as orders poured in immediately. The company was humming along, brand sourcing and making private label, but then the financial crisis struck. “It was like the end of the world,” Paparo says. “The faucet just shut off. I was worried about whether I could even find another job if it came to that.” But he vowed to not give in easily. “I told everyone they would have to drag my dead body out of here,” he says. Paparo put his head down and worked harder than ever.

He traveled to China 12 times during the year after the crisis and reached out for business anywhere he could find it. LJP’s client list at the time What are you reading? A included Rocawear, Sam Edelman, biography of Winston Churchill.

Steve Madden and Nine West. “I was I’ve always admired his leadercalling on everybody,” he says, notship skills. ing the company scaled down from 12 employees to three. “I was buyWhat is inspiring you now? ing, sourcing, designing, developing The people I work with and the all on my own. We just bore down opportunities we have to develop and learned to live within our means.” and grow the brands in our LJP started to turn the corner in portfolio and the new ones we 2009 and was rewarded for its suchave coming on board this year. cessful track record sourcing women’s and kids’ product for Nine West What famous person in history by being offered the company’s kids’ do you most admire? Ronald license. LJP added the Robert Graham Reagan. Employment was high license soon after and followed that during his terms, wars were up last year with the addition of the at a minimum, the country Mootsies Tootsies license. The comprospered, the Soviet Union pany also recently finalized a deal dissolved—lots of great things with International Brand Partners, happened under his leadership. makers of Ccilu, to distribute the hybrid athletic fashion brand in the What is your motto? “Without United States. [Ccilu is the brainquality there is no future.” child of Killick Datta, former CEO of GBMI, which owned the Diesel footWho would be your most wear license.] coveted dinner guest? Winston That takes us to the present. Sales Churchill. He was extremely of Nine West Kids is on fire (its best dynamic and fought alone at year to date), this fall’s debut of Robert first, which touches me because I Graham was a hit at retail and Paparo started LJP with just one partner. is confident that Mootsies Tootsies and I tell every person who joins our Ccilu will make strong debuts this year.

“It was a very good year,” he confirms.

Now ask him if any of that good fortune had to do with an improved economy.

His answer is Brooklyn blunt: “Hell no.” While Paparo wishes things were that easy, he attributes LJP’s success to hard work and a solid foundation.

“We gained the confidence of our licenses and retailers by being a dependable sourcing partner,” he says. “While other companies were faltering by shipping poor quality as prices rose and they didn’t have a recipe to address those issues, we stayed true to our brands’ needs and we came out of it stronger.”

Paparo is now living his dream. LJP has ramped up to 25 employees (and counting) at its Edison, NJ, headquarters and its China office boasts more than 200 employees. “I’m doing exactly what I want to be doing at this point in my life,” he says. “I’m surrounded by a team of people who have joined me for the long haul, and they’ve proved it by leaving jobs that, in some cases, were bigger. I’ll never forget it.”

What makes LJP different from other sourcing specialists?

In addition to developing, producing and selling quality footwear that our customers receive on time, we also provide intel that is not available anywhere else. We are not just a selling group. We design and source everything we sell. I believe this gives us a huge advantage over the competition. I couldn’t imagine having to rely on outside sources to build my shoes and ship them on time at the quality I expect. That’s why we are in control of every aspect.

We have an amazing China office with systems in place to ensure our success.

We have our own sample room, employ our own technicians, offer top-level quality assurance and quality control and have an in-house lab to insure standards. We spend a lot of time and money so we can ensure the success of our brand partners. team that failure is not an option and we will win together.

Just how unique is this set-up?

Often selling groups go to agents If God put you in charge, what or to factories direct to get samples would be your first decree? If made. So they might get their dress this was a Miss America pageant shoes made with this agent and their it’d be to cure cancer, which casual shoes and sneakers made with would be on my list, but I would two other agents and then hope it all also add more time to the day. comes together. However, what often happens this way are product inconWhat sound do you love? sistencies. To me, that doesn’t equal Production in a factory. When brand. Consistency is what equals I’m listening to the machines brand. We understand the needs of and watching our shoes come the brand, specifically the brand equity to life, that’s the most amazing and how important it is to respect that sound to me. integrity. We always put the brand first and approach each partnerWhat is your favorite ship with a long-term vision and not hometown memory? I was “what can I get out of it during this born and raised in Bensonhurst, one term.” A lot of companies put a Brooklyn, and it is of playing brand name on their wall for the sexistickball in the schoolyard and ness of it and think maybe it’ll get soon the street where the bases and-so to buy their private label shoes. stretched from sewer to sewer.

That’s ridiculous. We always want to Also, hanging out at L&B increase the brand’s value and integSpumoni Gardens, where they rity to improve its future, which helps make a square pizza that is like ensure our future. no other. My father went with his father and my father took Again, just how unique is this me. The place brings back great approach? memories.

It’s unique. And let me add that I’m open with our brand partners in all aspects of the business. Good, bad or indifferent, I tell them like it is and how I feel. They might tell me that they want to do this or that and I’ll say why that might not be a good idea and here’s a way it could work better. You’ve got to be honest and you’ve got to have mutual trust in these relationships.

Trust and integrity are not commodities. We both take a leap of faith, which I don’t take lightly because they are entrusting me with their brand. Nine West, for example, is part of a $4 billion entity. For them to trust us with their kids’ license is a big deal that we respect.

OFF THE CUFF

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

Why might your expertise in making kids’ footwear specifically be at the core of LJP’s overall success?

Because there’s so much involved in order to make legitimate kids’ shoes. The counter, fit, materials—everything has to be just so. We also have so many

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O&A more regulations to adhere to with chemicals and materials. The standards for kids’ is more stringent than women’s and men’s put together. If you can be successful in kids’, then you can do anything in footwear.

for a shoe and didn’t wear it, then you paid $1 too much.” I live by that rule.

I look at every shoe we make and ask myself: Is the consumer getting value?

Will it be more than what she bargained for? The answers must always be yes.

How has your Nine West Kids business performed this past year?

Extremely well. We have secured space with our retail partners by offering great product that has brought them incremental business. We have also guided them with product intel from women’s that hit trends at the precise time. It helps to have direct access to what’s selling in Nine West women’s, which enables us to react quickly. Often kids’ buyers are not savvy to what’s happening in the women’s market. So we encourage them to test what we know is trending, and many have gotten good returns as a result.

For Robert Graham that means...

Changing the men’s shoe business just as he’s changed the way men buy shirts, which have a real artistic and quirky sense and are very unique. We call the shirts wearable art, and that’s the same approach we are taking with the shoes.

They are trend-right and understandable styles and then we “Graham-inize” them by including unexpected design treasures that turn them into wearable art. Comfort also plays a big role in that man’s life so we have incorporated those features to make Robert Graham be his go-to shoes in his closet.

It’s not enough to just make a cool-looking shoe today, it’s got to have everything—quality, fit, comfort, value and looks.

How do you incorporate those trends and still make it kid-friendly?

It’s a takedown approach, but you can’t take down everything. So we take the DNA of each brand and build age-appropriate sophistication. Along those lines, each of our brands has a reason for being that’s unique. Otherwise, we’re just splitting hairs. With regard to Mootsies Tootsies, for example, women’s buying habits have changed dramatically and her search for comfort that’s hidden under the hood is key. With our kids’ collections, it’s age-appropriate styling that fits and provides quality at the value mothers seek. We want that purchase for both the mother and daughter to be memorable. The Nine West “Mommy and Me” ad campaign, for example, is very emotional and memorable. Today, children are much more educated and want what they want. So it’s important for the mother to trust the brand and feel confident that her kids will be comfortable. A wise man [Kenneth Cole] once told me years ago: “If you pay $1

It’s in step with men embracing color and style throughout their wardrobe.

Yes. A few years ago some brands introduced colored laces and welting, and men responded well. But nobody really capitalized on that. Who better than Robert Graham, an inventor of color and artisan design, to bring it to footwear? Robert has been working with us on every stitch. He thinks it could be the biggest category since his company’s inception. Everyone that ordered has re-ordered for this year.

What attracted you to the Ccilu distribution deal?

I believe there’s a whole space for injection-molded composite shoes that have a unique twist and feel, particularly the way Killick [Datta] has gone

about it. I also like to make a difference. It’s one thing to supply a demand, but it’s another thing to create one. I believe Ccilu will definitely create a demand. Specifically, I think Ccilu can bring incremental sales to better department stores and athletic channels that are in need of better margins.

Right now, brands similar to Ccilu are so diluted that retailers can’t make money on them. Ccilu will be like a breath of fresh air. Ccilu also already has a worldwide presence and those tentacles may help us piggyback our brands to grow internationally.

What is your general take on the footwear market right now?

I think the market is finding its way. There was a correction with brands and stores that couldn’t find their way and now many of them are gone.

The surviving retailers have learned who their partners are—those who can ship quality product on time, which a lot of companies can’t do.

The leash has gotten much shorter, on both sides of the equation.

There is no leash, and you can’t expect one. For example, even if you could get product made this past year, a lot of it has been sitting for weeks in the California ports because of a strike. I took a trip there a few weeks ago to look around and decided I wasn’t going to wait for this to all get resolved, because it probably won’t anytime soon. So we shifted our deliveries to New York. Other companies are still using that as an excuse why their shoes are late. But that doesn’t have to be the case. It’s a little more money and a little longer lead time, but we will ship to our retailers on time. That’s why I always say there are no problems, only solutions. We’re not too big or small where we can’t move and shake and make a change to adapt.

Speaking of rumored problems, what is your take on the sourcing situation in China?

Blah, blah, blah…Whine, whine, whine. Honestly, everyone complains about the rising costs of wages, supplies, oil, etc. Even now when oil costs half, they’ll complain about that. There are always a ton of reasons why they can’t get it done. We prefer to problem-solve and help the factories figure out how to meet the needs of our retailers. Last year, for example, we doubled our quality control and quality assurance teams. Instead of complaining about why a factory is telling us the price is X, we show them how they can make it for Y. We’ll show them how the consumption rate of the material can be cut better or how they can last and glue differently. I will walk around a conveyor and show how one guy on the line can do this and the guy standing next to him can then do that in order to improve efficiencies and savings. We are always working closely with our factory partners to help them produce our shoes better and quicker without compromising quality. The factory doesn’t tell us they have to get this material from this source, this buckle from another and the cost will be this…We tell them to get it from our suppliers and put it all together our way. That allows us to price shoes quickly and affordably. It’s not rocket science. But if you don’t know how to do it, then you shouldn’t be in this business.

Do factories like this level of hands-on involvement?

They love us because we are helping them be more efficient. The result is they get more business. They are not trying to fool anybody; they just think their way is right. But if we can figure out how to work together better, then it’s a win-win.

Do you see the bulk of production moving out of China any time soon?

No. Those that think that are probably having difficulties sourcing there.

There are solutions. But we are making some shoes in Vietnam as part of joint ventures with factories that we work with in China. The pricing just couldn’t be met on certain core products. It’s nothing too tricky or fancy. >95

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IN FOCUS

A CALL TO ACTION Deckers Brands CEO Angel Martinez calls on retailers to meet the ongoing consumer shopping revolution head-on, incorporating the latest technologies while embracing their unique tactile advantages.

BY GREG DUTTER

T’D BE ONE thing if Angel Martinez were just another big shot wholesale exec telling retailers how to run their businesses. Pontificating, chastising and advising without any real boots-on-the-ground experience in running a retail business or the challenges retailers face on a daily basis. But Martinez speaks from experience. He made his bones in this industry running Island City Sports in Alameda, CA, where he helped usher in the athletic fashion and fitness craze at a time (the mid ’80s) when the local sporting goods competitor was focused on selling bait, tackle and football cleats. Martinez foresaw a big change afoot as the running and aerobics fitness markets were set to explode. “I knew women, in particular, didn’t want to shop for fitness-related fashion products in that kind of setting,” Martinez says. “And they wanted great service, which we gave.” As for that competitor stuck in its ways, Martinez says, “We crushed them.”

Fast-forward a few decades and the basic retail premise of top-notch service, selection and experience remains the same. However, the playing field has changed dramatically. There’s no denying that shoping habits are undergoing a revolutionary transformation. The Internet represents a paradigm shift. Many traditional retailing tenets and expectations have fallen by the wayside.

Martinez believes that in this new world order, it’s imperative that retailers look beyond their own business and even the shoe industry for new ideas, strategies, technologies and solutions.

Martinez advises (implores, really) that retailers start looking and implementing new approaches ASAP. Just how critical is it? Not doing so is akin to climate change denial, he says. “You might tell yourself that it’s not that important, but the fact is it doesn’t really matter what’s causing the changes, who’s at fault…it’s a reality, it’s coming and there’s nothing you are going to do about it. You have to adapt,” he warns. The Deckers Brands CEO is “100 percent convinced” that retailers need to adapt now. Delaying is a form of denial, and the consequences are far too risky. “We’re at a moment in

retail that represents a generational shift where nothing is going to be the same afterwards,” he says. “Those who adapt will move on and those who don’t will not be here.”

The fact is traditional retailers can’t out-merchandise the online behemoth nor can they beat them on price. Whatever tactics they might have been using relative to assortment and price are no longer viable. Need proof? Ask yourself whether a 30-percent off sale is a meaningful enticement these days.

And while some people may show up for 50-percent off, even that amount is a tough draw. Martinez says retailers must learn how to compete on a new playing field. “It’s like when they invented the forward pass in football: If you didn’t have a quarterback who could throw the ball, you couldn’t compete,” he says. “It’s a new game at retail, because you are certainly not going to ‘out-Amazon’ Amazon.”

Martinez, a self-professed eternal optimist, believes there’s plenty of upside for traditional shoe retailers in this new landscape. He cites the footwear industry’s tactile nature as its ace in the hole. “People like to try shoes on. It really makes a difference,” he offers. Beyond the obvious tactile pleasures and making sure the fit is good, shoes affect a person’s appearance. A certain style might make a woman’s foot look smaller and a certain heel may make a leg look slim or sexy. Shoes also look great with certain outfits and horrible with others. A photo online can’t show any of this. “The only way to figure that out is to try it on,” he says.

“Being in a setting where you can have that experience and service represents a huge advantage.”

That brings us to three successive tenets—connection, experience and relationship—that Martinez recommends retailers follow. Connection starts with a merchandise mix featuring a blend of brands, items and exclusives. “You need to titillate them whatever way you can, and the right brands or certain hot items put you in consideration,” he says.

“But if that item or brand is available online in a ubiquitous way and at a major discount, then you are not even going to have a chance to make a connection.” The other part of the connection aspect is informing consumers of your existence, which should involve using all media and platforms. A

Angel Martinez, CEO, Deckers Brands

48 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

about Hoka that a salesperson, who may be a runuser-friendly website is a no-brainer. You also need ner himself, won’t be able to convey 10 times better to be wherever your target consumer is looking and as the customer takes a walk around the store in a communicating online, be it Facebook, Instagram, pair.” In general, Martinez believes there’s no webTwitter, Vine, YouTube, Pinterest, Tumblr, etc. It site that can educate and convince a customer better may seem overwhelming, but advertising solely in than a great in-store experience. “Footwear is a spethe local Sunday circular is not the only way to go cialty business and taking that out of the equation these days. means we are commoditizing our whole universe,” Next is fostering a great experience, which Martinez he warns. “It then becomes a lowest price game, and says begins the second customers walk into your that’s not a business I want to be in.” store. How your staff greets them, how well your Martinez wants to remain in the business of sellstore is merchandised, how pleasant it is to shop ing Deckers’ portfolio to a network of retailers in all in, whether it smells nice, whether the lighting is tiers and formats. He believes the specialty retail good, whether the customer is offered water…Only foundation in particular is the most important key if you have successfully fostered a great experience to the industry’s long-term health and the only way can you establish a long-term relationship with the brands can measure themselves against the compeconsumer. “They’ll then be interested in what you tition. He cites Coach as an example that went with have to offer,” he says. “They’ll give you their e-mail an own-stores approach and the result was living in address. You’ll gain the privilege of communicating a vacuum while brands like Kate Spade and Michael with them regularly and can inform them, for examKors rose to prominence in multi-brand stores. “If ple, when new merchandise comes in their size, style we are going to get better as a company, we need to and color preference.” understand how we are appealing to the consumer The ability to know a customer on such a level who has a choice of all these other brands in that involves a combination of software technologies Touchscreen shopping in an Ugg flagship. store,” he says. Beyond that, Martinez believes there’s and good old-fashioned service. Both are areas no justification for specialty shoe retailers to disappear. “It’s not like technolthat could use improvement, according to Martinez. “We have software proogy is making these stores obsolete,” he says. “It’s not like how digital music grams available that enable making and keeping track of customer conneccrushed the record store business. Nobody has invented a complete digital tions, but do enough retailers employ them? No. Do most train their staff to substitute for the footwear shopping experience.” a level of service that is going to make a difference? No.” While technology and service may be deemed as expensive and difficult investments, Martinez says retailers should look at the long-term ROI. Besides, he notes, “It’s more expensive to go bankrupt.”

Martinez predicts the successful shoe store of tomorrow will be a blend of old and new concepts. The showroom format is one example. Rather than lambaste “showrooming,” why not become just that: a place consumers can shop, try on and buy and then have it shipped to them? It lowers overhead costs Retailers need not fear bankruptcy if they effectively maximize their tactile and reduces inventory risks—all in more economical space. advantages, which no online shopping experience can match. Martinez says Such shifts in consumer shopping behavior are already evident in Ugg’s all five senses must be exploited so that it becomes the reason a consumer flagships, where Martinez reports 30 percent of the purchases in its Tysons “gets up off their butt, gets into their car and drives to a store.” The experiGalleria location are being made via iPad touchscreens. “Consumers don’t ence may require bringing out eight pairs of shoes even though the customer want to carry the box around and are fine with it arriving at their house in 24 buys only one pair—or doesn’t buy any. If they don’t enter the store, however, hours,” he says. “Consumers want what they want, it guarantees there will be no sale. when they want it and how they want it. Retailers Martinez believes that in an increasingly autoare not in charge of how people want to access prodmated world the old-school approach to retailing uct today.” Another example of this consumer-first has appeal if it’s done well. “If I were to open a shoe approach is the installation of touchscreens on the store today it’d be old school in every way,” he says. windows of Ugg’s Japanese flagship, allowing con“It would have that smell of shoe polish the minute sumers to shop whenever they pass by. “The results you stepped in. There’d be somebody polishing your have been incredible,” Martinez reports. old shoes because that meets the No. 1 goal of shoe Martinez eagerly wants to share such knowledge retailing: get the shoe off of their foot.” Layered on with its retail partners. He believes the long-term that, he adds, would be the new. “I would have a robust health of the industry is at stake and it’s the comrelationship-driven website and e-mail campaign. I’d pany’s obligation to use all the resources at its dishave a dossier on what everyone is looking for each season and whenever product came in, I would alert posal. It’s the impetus behind the Footwear Network that customer that it’s been set aside for them personSeries, (p. 52), a joint initiative between Footwear ally and, if they let me know in 24 hours, it’s theirs.”

Plus and Deckers Brands that will showcase a range This level of service used to be the norm and must of experts the company is working with to help rebecome so again. Martinez believes it’s essential for invent and revitalize shoe retailing. Expert No. 1 is the long-term health of the entire footwear industry, Steve Yankovich, vice president of innovation and and he speaks from Deckers’ own portfolio perspecnew ventures for eBay. “Steve is figuring out tactics to tive. “We are a tactile business and there’s no more get the consumer more engaged,” Martinez explains. tactile brand than Ugg,” he explains. “Nothing we “Retailers need to understand what is coming, and can say on a website replicates the in-store experihe can offer a peek under the hood of what they are ence of trying on a pair of Ugg boots—it’s a unique working on—the kind of tools that you are either difference maker.” Likewise for its Hoka One One going to soon be up against or, instead, can use to maximal running shoes: “There’s nothing we can say your advantage. The choice is yours.” •

“Nothing we can say on a website replicates the in-store experience of trying on a pair of Ugg boots— it’s a unique difference maker.”

50 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

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Future Perfect Crystal ball-gazing with eBay tech guru Steve Yankovich.

BY K AT H Y PA S S E RO

MAGIC MIRRORS. WALLS that obey your every command. They might sound like something out of a fairy-tale or a sci-fi film, but they’re the future of footwear shopping.

And they’re just the beginning when it comes to the ways technology promises to reshape retail, according to Steve Yankovich, eBay Inc.’s vice president of innovation and new ventures. A global leader in mobile commerce and one of Fast Company’s “Most Productive People� for 2014, Yankovich specializes in bringing cutting-edge technology to retail to help brands better engage with consumers. “When it comes to shoe retailers, technology is still nascent, but it’s going to start showing up,� Yankovich predicts. He says the delay for retailers in general is due to a combination of reasons. “First, retailers aren’t tech companies.

Technology isn’t in their wheelhouse, so it’s harder for them to make choices and, no matter what they do, it’s got to be outsourced, so it’s expensive,� he says. “Second, a lot of retailers’ systems have grown over time, so they’re not cohesive. Instead of bolting together nicely, they’re kind of a Frankenstein.�

Yankovich says the in-store digital experience of the future requires all those systems to talk to each other, hence the natural resistance. Retailers know making that happen will be a painful hurdle. But they’ll get over it, Yankovich believes. “It’s going to happen,� he says. “It has to happen.�

52 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

Why? Even in a best-case scenario, the typical retail experience is cumbersome for the average shopper compared to many other aspects of daily life because technology—and the smartphone, in particular—has raised our expectations, he says. “Smartphones have changed our idea of what’s friction, of what we feel is too hard and a waste of our time,� according to Yankovich. “They’ve created different expectations for how things should happen in people’s lives, including commerce. And they’ve proven that consumers will adopt technology left and right for all kinds of things.�

How is in-store tech likely to reshape the retail landscape? Yankovich points to three innovations that offer telling clues:

ĆŤ ĆŤ How often do you shop for shoes and where? Once a month. Nordstrom is my default.

How would you describe your sense of style? Classic, but I do a little of whatever the current trend is.

What’s your go-to shoe?

Comfy loafers, running shoes and flip-flips on the weekend.

How did you first get into technology? I’ve been a tech guy my whole life. My dad tinkered around the garage and the house, so I was always tinkering, too. I was interested in any new technology, not just computers and electronics but also in cars and cooking.

What are your favorite things to do when you’re not working? Tinker with technology, and build and drive fast cars.

What’s your favorite gadget right now? Dropcam. The wireless video-monitoring tech lets me view my house and the place I store my cars on my phone.

What are the top three websites you visit every day?

WSJ.com, CarBuzz.com and eBay.com.

What’s your motto? FINAO. It’s pronounced phi-now. It’s short for failure is not an option.

Ä Ä‹ĆŤ !. “Until Uber came along, when you walked out of a restaurant in an unfamiliar city, you weren’t sure how to get a cab or a car service,â€? says Yankovich. “Maybe you asked the restaurant if they could call you a car. But then if the car showed up, there was no guarantee you’d get it. Somebody else might take it. Uber changed that and made the process super simple. You didn’t have to talk to a human being. The car was automatically yours.

Your name was on the screen in it. The payment was set up, too, so you didn’t have to fumble around with a credit card or cash. It removed all the friction. Now the old way seems clunky.�

Retail Connection: Uber raised the standard when it comes to ease of purchase. “That changes your expectations for everything else you do as a consumer, including what happens when you walk into a store,â€? he says. Ä‚Ä‹ĆŤ ! . (!ĆŤ %0*!//ĆŤ . '!./ “Three years ago, if you’d asked 100 people on the street if they wanted a wearable digital pedometer that talked to their smartphone and let them compete with their friends over how many steps they’d taken, most would have said, ‘What’s a pedometer?’â€? says Yankovich. “If you’d explained, they probably would have said, ‘No thanks.’ Yet the technology came out and step counters like FitBit are big because they’re super efficient and they provide useful data.â€?

Retail Connection: Wearable fitness trackers showed that people like technology that gives personalized information quickly and simply. “Consumers have proven again and again that they’ll adopt tech like crazy if it’s super efficient and provides useful data,� Yankovich says. “There’s a natural extension to putting technology in a store that helps consumers to be efficient.�

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ÄƒÄ‹ĆŤ +1 $/ .!!*ĆŤ ! $*+(+#5 “Smartphones are ubiquitous, and all of us have touchscreens that work well enough that if you use them, the software will recognize your touch the first time,â€? says Yankovich. “We’re used to that level of performance.â€?

Retail Connection: Smartphones changed the way we interact with computers, making keyboards with buttons obsolete in favor of finger swipes. At the same time, smartphone features like mobile gaming and Internet connectivity—which let users check social media sites whenever, wherever—blurred the lines between work and play. We associate touchscreen technology not just with business, but with fun and leisure—and we embrace the idea of using it 24-7 in nearly all aspects of our lives, Yankovich says.

What form will innovations take in the footwear store of tomorrow? They’ll center on providing ultra-quick, ultra-friendly, data-driven shopping. “The new consumer expectation is, ‘You need to help me be super efficient. Make it like magic.

Help me do whatever I need to do,’� Yankovich explains. “It’s a natural extension to put technology in stores that meets that expectation.�

Right now, the average retailer’s modus operandi clashes with the average shopper’s, Yankovich contends. “Retailers might want you to walk through the entire store and see everything, but very few people want to do that. Most of us are on a shopping mission—we want to get a new pair of shoes and we know the kind we need—but the retailer doesn’t help us.�

If technology can find a way to help consumers better understand inventory without forcing them to stop and look at items they don’t want, retailers will have happier customers and, ultimately, higher profits. And that’s exactly the technology Yankovich and his team at eBay are developing.

The problem? Yankovich describes this typical shoe-shopping scenario: “You walk into a shoe store. You wander around. You really don’t understand the inventory at all,� he says. “At some point, you decide to try on some shoes.

You make a few choices, say you want a size 12, and the sales guy comes back with an 11.5 in one style, a 12.5 in another and a third that’s not the shoe you asked for. He just thinks somehow he magically knows what you want. In my case, it’s always wrong.�

Is there an app to fix this? Yankovich says not for the majority of shoppers. “Your store is just one of many places they’ll visit.â€? “Is someone who shops at six department stores and 30 specialty boutique stores near their home going to have 36 apps on their phone just for clothes 54 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

and shoe shopping? Probably not.� Even if they do, he adds, they have to pull their phone out, unlock it and launch the app. “It’s not easy to engage. That’s friction,� he says.

The answer: Yankovich’s solution is mirror technology. “You walk up to a mirror, touch it, select your size, your department and the styles you’re interested in—slip-on loafers, boat shoes, etc.,� he explains. “Then the mirror shows you only shoes the store actually has in stock in the styles you’ve chosen in your size.

You choose from those, and the technology alerts a salesperson to get them out of inventory for you.� Yankovich believes customers are going to be happier because they’re only getting shoes in their size. “You might even decide to try on a few extra shoes,� he adds. “As a retailer, you’ve given the customer a better experience and yourself a high likelihood of success in terms of sales.�

Until now, the hardware didn’t exist to offer this experience. There were no larger screens of, say, three feet across diagonally that could hang in a retail environment, hold up to heavy use all day and meet customers’ expectations for touchscreen performance, he says. “But that’s changing. Manufacturers are crossing that hurdle,� according to Yankovich.

Yankovich recently filed a patent for a system he predicts will make the approach even better. “You’ll have a system that lets devotees and frequent customers use mirror technology to self-identify,� he explains. “That way you can collect information on your customers that will help you know whether a shoe is going to fit them.� For example, every manufacturer has a different shape and size that they call a 12.

Retailers can measure the customer’s foot and then do the same to their shoe inventory, but it’s not easy, Yankovich points out. “Imagine you, the retailer, can collect data on the history of the last six shoes I purchased and feedback telling you I thought five of them were awesome.

They fit perfectly,â€? he offers. “Now imagine another customer comes in who wears the same size and appears to have the same taste as I do. If you can go into your database, you can recommend the shoes I bought. There’s a good chance they’ll fit the new customer, who shares my size and tastes, too. Now, without knowing any special information about each manufacturer’s exact sizing, you can make recommendations that will genuinely help your customers.â€? As this starts to evolve, retailers will be able to use the data they collect to benefit the consumer even more, Yankovich predicts. “Ultimately the people walking into your store will be far happier, they’ll let go of their money much faster and their basket size will be far bigger,â€? he says. •

ÄŒĆŤ ĆŤ Rebecca Minkoff Makes Shopping “Magicâ€?

CUSTOMERS STEPPING INTO the new Rebecca Minkoff Connected Store in New York City’s SoHo will discover a tech-savvy twist on brickand-mortar shopping that proves online retailers aren’t the only ones who know how to make a touchscreen work to their advantage.

Powered by and designed in partnership with eBay Inc., the designer’s store boasts such futuristic features as a new consumer mobile iOS app, a connected “touch� wall and connected “magic� fitting rooms.

Upon entering the boutique, shoppers can view a video of Minkoff’s latest runway show on the Connected Wall and touch the styles they like best to see a close-up of each item onscreen—or rather, “on wall�—with suggested pieces to complete the look. Questions?

Need assistance? The shopper presses a finger to the question mark on the wall for help. If not, she selects the sizes and colors she wants, then touches “Send to my room�. An associate springs into action, retrieving the garments, putting them in a fitting room and—if the shopper requests this on the Connected Wall—slipping a few additional suggestions into the room.

As she waits, the shopper can browse or order a complimentary beverage on the wall. When her room is ready, she’ll get a text message.

Inside the fitting room, a Magic Mirror lets her adjust the lighting (Brooklyn morning, SoHo after dark, Hudson River sunset, etc.) and view cross-sell suggestions (“This goes great with‌â€?) or find out what other colors are available in the store. If she’d like to try one on or request a different size, she simply touches the prompt on the mirror.

Once she’s made her selections, the shopper can send them to a virtual shopping basket for expedited mobile checkout using the Magic Mirror. An associate will confirm her purchase and bag the items. She’ll receive a receipt via e-mail as she leaves the store.

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STAR − − − − − − − − − − − − − EW RETAIL ESTABLISHMENTS survive more than a decade. These days the life expectancy is growing even shorter as the pace of change and room for error quickens and narrows, respectively. So when you come across Karavel Shoes, an old school, brick-and-mortar retailer that’s been nestled deep in the heart of Texas for 78 years, it makes you wonder: just how have they been able to stick around for so long?

It has to do with the store’s ideology, says Owner Rick Ravel. “We are in the relationship business,” he offers.

“We develop relationships with our customers, our brands and our colleagues in this industry.” They are the types of relationships that last and last. Michael Wittenstein, Ravel’s stepson and vice president of Karavel Shoes, describes the business as “an Austin institution and part of the fabric of this city.” He adds, “There aren’t many stores like us in Texas with the brands we carry, the sales staff we have and the service we give—and that makes us unique in our own right.” Adds Ravel, “The ability to help people and provide excellent customer service is absolutely the most important aspect to longevity.”

Not surprisingly, the customer is always king at Karavel Shoes, which Ravel says doesn’t require rocket science to implement. “You greet a customer, smile, make them feel welcome, discuss their needs, fulfill those needs and follow up,” he says. “How tough is that?” Yet such service is not the norm today. So much so that Ravel believes consumers aren’t accustomed to receiving any, let alone expect store personnel to even listen to them.

But that is also what Ravel, current chairman of the National Shoe Retailers Association (NSRA), firmly believes sets sit-and-fit footwear specialists like Karavel Shoes apart and, more important, can be the tier’s raison d’être going forward.

To be sure, Karavel Shoes’ longevity hasn’t been a case of standing completely pat over the past seven decades. The business has seen the introduction of several formats, expanded to other locations and has also had to contract.

Ravel is always looking to evolve in an effort to keep its customer relationships strong, no matter how they want

KARAVEL SHOES BLENDS TRADITIONAL SIT-AND-FIT VALUES ACROSS A RANGE OF FORMATS TO ADDRESS THE COMFORT NEEDS OF ITS CENTRAL TEXAS CLIENTELE. 56 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

Never one to cling to what isn’t working, Ravel is in the process of phasing to shop for their comfort footwear needs. The latest such move debuts next out the remaining two New Balance shops. The Ecco store was converted month: an online retail component. “We know we have to sell there,” Ravel into Karavel Shoes’ men’s store that, at 6,000 square feet, carries options states. “We know we have to be omnichannel. There’s just no doubt about that.” from such leading brands as Clarks, Rockport, Dunham and, of course, Ecco.

Up until now, Karavel Shoes has existed on the Internet as a static source Similarly, the New Balance location in nearby Round Rock will be turned of store information. While Ravel admits that most independents don’t make into a Karavel store this April. “We expanded—sometimes that works and much money in this sector, he looks forward to trying something new. And sometimes it doesn’t,” Ravel reflects about the endeavor. with showrooming an ongoing issue in his stores, he sees the website compliChalk it up to a good learning experience, which Ravel has been doing since menting the brick-and-mortar locations. Lost sales, for example, due to not he followed his father into the business in 1972. He went in guns blazing and having a certain style or size in stock, could be converted on the spot. It is also embarked on what he describes as an “expansion kick,” adding eight locations an opportunity to expand Karavel’s audience throughout the United States, to the five that were in operation. But then, like many other companies in and with 78 years of business under its belt, Ravel believes the Karavel Shoes the ’80s who over-expanded, Karavel Shoes took a hit and contracted down comfort retailing history and reputation will instill confidence in prospecto one location. tive online shoppers—many who have been burned by shady digital dealers.

Ravel sees these attempts at trying to adapt as having ultimately strengthIn fact, don’t let Karavel’s old school, sit-and-fit premise mislead you. Ravel ened the company. In fact, he wants has always been a risk-taker and early Wittenstein, next in line to lead Karavel adapter in an effort to ensure that the busiShoes, to approach the business the same ness remains relevant. Take the opening of way. Ravel wants him to gain hands-on its Wellness Center in 1995, for example. experience in all facets of the business and Previously called the Karavel Pedorthic learn by doing. It’s the way that Ravel was Center, Ravel changed the name when taught. “My dad let me make mistakes, and he learned that customers were confused that’s how I learned—the hard way,” he says. because they didn’t know the difference “Hopefully, you learn and get better after between podiatrists and orthopedic footmaking them.” wear. He got the idea while attending the One way to improve is to avail oneself to GDS shoe show in Düsseldorf, Germany, as much information as possible. “My dad where traditional Euro comfort brands were always believed in education,” Ravel says. “If categorized as wellness footwear. Sensing there was a meeting or a lecture, he sent me a growing need and broader acceptance of to it.” Ravel is a strong proponent of attendwellness products in general, Ravel moved ing NSRA’s semi-annual educational series the center to its own 2,000-square-foot in Las Vegas as well as its annual summit. space adjacent to Karavel’s downtown Attending such meetings has done more Austin location last October. The staff, than teach Ravel about the latest trends which includes three certified pedorthists and retailing strategies; it has introduced (Ravel is one) as well as a medical marhim to colleagues who became mentors. keter, is able to better service the needs of He credits these mentors with teaching its customers, many of whom suffer from him the ropes, citing his first buying trips diabetes, foot ailments and other medical to FFANY shows in New York and the GDS conditions that require special fittings and show as game changers that helped pave the custom orthotics. way for what Karavel Shoes carries today.

The Wellness Center is a specialty busiRavel counts Randy Brown of Brown’s ness within a specialty comfort business as Shoe Fit, Jim Sajdak of Stan’s Fit for Your Karavel Shoes is already a go-to destination Feet and Vernon Powell Shoes’ owner Phil offering the widest selection of comfort footWright—all winners of the NSRA’s annual wear brands in sizes and widths in central Retailer of the Year award—as people Texas. On top of its selection, the retailer who have given valuable insights in how is renowned for its customer service and to run an independent shoe business. He fitting expertise—both increasingly rare in advises all independent retailers to join an today’s help-yourself shopping landscape. organization like the NSRA to foster these The end result: being able to maintain From top: Rick Ravel and Michael Wittenstein, the Karavel Shoes kinds of relationships and stay on top of the customer relationships as their footwear brain trust; inside their Austin comfort emporium. ever-changing industry. “Never squander and health needs change over the course the opportunity to gain more knowledge,” he advises. of their lives. Perhaps that’s the reason Ravel says Karavel Shoes’ best form That’s why Wittenstein is an active member of the NSRA’s NextGen proof marketing is word of mouth. gram, which focuses on educating potential successors on how to manage relationships as they come up in the family business. He reports that valuable relationships have blossomed from the program, allowing Wittenstein Not all of Karavel Shoes’ attempts at adaptation, however, have been home to bounce ideas around and learn from the successes and setbacks of fellow runs. Take its move into standalone concepts shops, which first began 15 independents. years ago with the opening of a Mephisto store. An Ecco shop and three New Balance shops later followed. And what seemed like a good concept at first—to showcase an entire brand in a standalone setting—turned out to be more of a distraction and drain on its primary retail business. Ravel notes that customers One of the biggest challenges facing Karavel Shoes right now is appealing were often unsure which stores carried what, the New Balance shops require to both older and younger demographics. It involves a merchandise and him to buy styles that aren’t always a good fit for the Austin market’s aesthetic marketing balance that attracts one side without alienating the other and and the entire enterprise strayed too far from the Karavel Shoes’ branding. vice-versa. A particular challenge within that dilemma: How to hook cus2015 february • footwearplusmagazine.com 57

tomers in the 35- to 50-year-old age bracket, who are neither young nor old in their tastes and attitudes? Take traditional advertising approaches, for example.

Most no longer apply. This demographic reads news online instead of in a newspaper and Ravel says either they don’t watch TV or watch it in a way that allows them to skip commercials. To reach these customers, Ravel has shifted to social media, emphasizing its selection of brands that appeal to a younger base like Fly London, Vans, Birkenstock and Teva on its Twitter, Instagram and Facebook sites. Several locations are now also open on Sundays to better serve customers with busy families and careers.

Demographic dilemmas aside, Ravel hopes for a crises-free 2015. He predicts an increase in business, citing lower gas prices and a strengthening economy as sources of additional spending money for consumers. That said he considers any growth would be a great achievement, joking, “Even is the new up.” As far as additional store openings, he defers to Wittenstein, saying that his “new store” days are over.

Wittenstein is taking a conservative approach to growing Karavel Shoes at this time. He cites current goals as strengthening the current locations in Austin, launching an online business and taking the format in a younger direction without losing the comfort premise. Beyond that, Wittenstein has bigger dreams: “The next logical step would be to duplicate what we do here in another major city in Texas,” he says, noting it would be years from now. First, he wants to maintain Karavel Shoes’ position as the destination for comfort footwear in central Texas.

Ravel and Wittenstein share the sentiment that it’s impossible to be all things to all consumers, but with a strong emphasis on expert service and a top-notch selection in the comfort realm, Karavel Shoes can thrive. “The goal is to help sustain and grow the family business, because I want it to be around for another 75 years,” Wittenstein says. That requires staying true to the relationship-building values that Ravel’s father, Irving, first introduced in 1937: Greet everyone warmly, always measure their feet, fit to their needs and remember to send a thank you note saying you appreciate their business. It’s not rocket science; just retailing common sense. •

Austin is a young, booming, boot-wearing kind of town.

Are there any unique style preferences of the Austin customer?

Rick Ravel: Austin is just so casual—people don’t dress up a lot here. Low-heeled, short boots and flats that can be used as dresscasual are what people wear most often. Men have been buying more boots this year, too.

How is Austin different than the rest of Texas? We’re the liberal hotspot of Texas and the town is very young. There’s tons of live music and it’s a crazy place that welcomes entrepreneurs. The mean age here now is 32 and about 100 people move here a day.

What are your top-selling brands? For men, it’s New Balance, Ecco, Clarks and Rockport. And for women, it’s Naot, Finn Comfort, Munro, Mephisto and Dansko.

What are your best-selling accessories? Insoles are number one.

Aetrex (Lynco), Powerstep, Prothotic and Birkenstock. Socks come in at number two.

What’s the best new brand you’ve added to the mix this past year?ƫWe’ve got such an established portfolio, but we added Taos recently and it’s growing very quickly.

What is your fastest growing segment? Boots. We started carrying boots in August and sold out. We don’t do cowboy boots because this is Texas and there are other places that specialize in that, but we sell a lot of low, casual boots to both men and women.

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NEW AGE RETAIL Cutting-edge technologies are transforming the physical store into a re-imagined and relevant space again. By Lyndsay McGregor

right content and information at the right time.�

The app, which Taubman plans to roll out to more of its malls this year, incorporates real-time, mall-based navigation powered

by Bluetooth beacons, remembering favorite stores and delivering personalized maps, style inspiration, sales and proAt left: motions to the phones of shoppers in real time. It’s a Shoes of problem-solution approach to technology. “If you’re the Prey shopshopper, you don’t want to be bombarded by all these in-shop at Nordstrom. different messages on your journey throughout the mall, getting ads from 20 different categories popping up on your phone. This app is about providing a more curated experience for the shopper based on his or her preferences,� explains Mike Osment, chief information officer. Frank continues, “The shopper journey is so rich and complex today compared with what it was 10 years ago. Shoppers spend time online, on their phones and in store. And while 90 percent of shopping still happens in stores, the journey happens every day, every second, in every location.�

HERE’S A SCENE in the 2002 sci-fi movie Minority Report when a camera takes a retina scan of Tom Cruise’s character as he’s racing through a shopping mall and proceeds to bombard him with a flurry of interactive advertising. Though a somewhat unreal scenario at the time, it’s no different to how Facebook and Google push ads in front of consumers based on their web browsing history today. Or how the likes of J. Crew and Anthropologie send targeted e-mails to shoppers based on the products they’ve checked out—but passed over—online.

But what if shopping malls were more like websites, remembering every store a consumer has visited and every item they purchased or considered— even alerting them when a favorite shop is having a surprise sale? That’s essentially the idea behind the free mobile shopping app that launched at the Taubman Properties-owned Mall at University Town Center in Sarasota, FL, in December. “Our new mobile app changes the shopping experience, bringing mall navigation and personalization to the forefront like never before,â€? states Ivan Frank, Taubman’s digital marketing director, calling it “a remote control for the mall.â€? He adds, “Consumers get a lot of marketing e-mails, and they’re effective, but there’s a lot of clutter. It’s not the consumer’s job to follow everything retailers do. It’s the retailer’s job to make sure they offer the 60 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

ĆŤ ĆŤ

Retail’s online and offline worlds are increasingly colliding, combining the best of both to seamlessly enhance the overall shopping experience for consumers. Even e-commerce behemoths are realizing that physical stores still matter. Amazon, which previously positioned itself as brick-and-mortar’s mortal enemy, is planning to open a physical presence on 34th Street in New York. Men’s brand Bonobos, whose founder, Andy Dunn, once claimed he would never open an offline store, currently has 13 Guideshops (offline showrooms where customers can try on items, then order them from the website to be delivered to their homes), where shoppers spend about twice as much, on average, as their online counterparts. It’s been so successful, in fact, that Dunn plans to open up to 30 additional stores nationally within the next two years. And Portland, OR-based Solestruck is re-engineering its brick-and-mortar shoe store into a sort of gallery of its latest styles. Rather than keeping inventory onsite, the staff now invites customers to download an app and, when they see a style they like, snap a QR code to order it through their mobile device for free next-day delivery. With no sizes to search for or cash registers to man, this allows the staff to focus their attention on delivering great service. “Retailers are feeling increased pressure to win brick-and-mortar spending and therefore need complimentary services that provide the extra puzzle piece,� offers Kate Smith, senior fashion and retail analyst at Editd. Poonam Goyal, an analyst with Bloomberg Intelligence, agrees. “Anything that offers an enhanced customer experience that’s more valuable than what a shopper will receive online is going to drive traffic to a brick-and-mortar store,� she says.

To wit, Bloomingdale’s new store in the Stanford Shopping Center in Palo Alto, CA, may be its smallest full-line store in the United States but it presents the latest in consumer-facing shopping technologies and services. “Smart� fitting rooms are rigged with wall-mounted iPads so shoppers can look up

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product information, color and size options and reviews, as well as message associates to bring items into the fitting room. In addition, charging stations and mirrors with touchscreen lighting options enhance an often limited experience. It’s a similarly futuristic story at the Rebecca Minkoff flagship in New York, where merchandise tags are equipped with radio-frequency identification (RFID) technology that tracks which items customers try on, suggesting other clothes or accessories that pair well with the outfit, and provides the store with a precise, real-time view of inventory. “Consumers are more educated than ever and they don’t go to a store to browse—they go in with a purpose,� says Gerard Marceda, Deckers Brands vice president of North America retail. The consumer’s interest, he notes, has already been piqued, so the question becomes: What can we do to engage them more deeply with the brand? That’s the approach Marceda took when he was dreaming up ideas for Ugg Australia’s first high-tech concept store, which opened at Tysons Galleria in Washington, DC, in November. To that end, RFID chips are embedded in every product on the sales floor, allowing consumers trying on or holding merchandise to view digitally triggered content on four 65-inch HD touchscreens located throughout the store, including product information, style tips, videos and marketing campaigns—all based on what the shopper is actively interested in. Handheld-wielding associates then help customers purchase from the store’s inventory or its e-commerce site. “We wanted to create an in-store portion to our business model that encourages consumers to visit the store and interact with the brand,� Marceda says.

To further heighten the experience, Ugg is also offering two customization programs: “Ugg by You,â€? which allows shoppers to use the in-store touchscreens to make their mark on five classic styles through various boot colors, bindings, heel counters, outsoles and Swarovski monogramming; and “Bling It On,â€? which lets customers bedazzle their boots with Swarovski patterns. “This gave us the opportunity to get one-on-one with our customers and give them the opportunity to create something that’s just for them,â€? shares Leah Larson, Ugg’s vice president and creative director. ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ In-store customization technologies as a way to draw shoppers in are also being introduced by Nordstrom via its Shoes of Prey shop-in-shops in five of its major shoe departments across the country this year. Dubbed “Design Your Own Shoes,â€? the first in-store design studio opened in Bellevue, WA, in November. Options include 12 silhouettes and more than 170 fabric options, as well as heel heights and embellishments, for a total of 70 trillion variations. Each pair is delivered within four weeks and prices average under $300. “We want to serve customers in different ways and deliver highly relevant, personalized experiences,â€? says Tacey Powers, vice president and DMM of women’s shoes at Nordstrom, of the department store’s decision to partner with the Australia-based website. Jodie Fox, chief creative officer and co-founder of Shoes of Prey, says it runs much deeper than choosing shapes and colors on an iPad screen. Specifically, it allows you to make it in your size. “Since launching, we’ve heard great feedback from women who are 5-foot-10 and above or 5-foot-and-below—women who usually can’t walk onto a shoe floor and pick up the first thing they see, because they have to find a sales associate and ask, ‘What do you have in my size?’â€? she explains. Too often, the answer is little or not what the customer was hoping to buy. Fox adds, “We’re making it easier for them to find the shoes that they want.â€?

That’s the same reason why Gordon Clune, chairman and co-owner of Left Shoe Company, says his made-to-order men’s shoes business has blown up since he opened his first store on Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood in 2013. (Liam Neeson and Billy Crystal are regulars.) “Seventy-five percent of the public are too wide, too narrow or have dissimilar feet, and mass-produced, off-the-shelf inventory doesn’t fit. Most of us don’t even know what a well-fitting shoe is,� Clune says. Left Shoe offers a solution that blends the online and offline experience seamlessly. Customers can go into one of its stores where staff will create a 3-D foot scan, tailoring each shoe to fit each consumer perfectly. Once sizing is determined, men can choose from

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55 different styles and myriad color combinations, either in the store or at a later date from their computer or tablet. “Men that struggle to find shoes that fit get this concept right away,�

Clune says. Plus: “Because we’re offering product that isn’t already made and sitting on a shelf in a backroom, we don’t have all the overhead attached to inventory and can pass those savings on to the customer.�

Larry Schwartz, CEO of Aetrex Worldwide, says that independent brick-and-mortar retailers who have been slow to adapt to innovative in-store technologies face legitimate challenges against online dealers who most likely will offer more selection and lower pricing.

Schwartz says Aetrex’s approach is to bridge the gap for its traditional retailers with accessible and affordable software technologies. “What we try to do is be that solution for retailers where we’re providing them with products and technology that enable them to offer authentic benefits to consumers that they can’t get online,� he says. That’s where the company’s iStep foot-scanning systems come into play, which provide custom sizing for its Lynco orthotics as well as suggests which brands and specific constructions are best suited to their unique foot shape. In an effort to further boost sales, Aetrex recently introduced a mobile app generator, available free to all iStep retail partners, which enables retailers to have an app presence that can be leveraged for marketing, promotions and e-commerce. “Not only do our retailers have a differentiation, they also have an in-store technology that’s really relevant for their business,� Schwartz notes.

Lucy Beard, CEO and founder of Feetz, a 3-D printed custom shoe startup, is hoping her company can make a dent in the market when it launches for that exact reason. “We want to turn this technology into something that brands and retailers can actually use,� she says. “You won’t have to carry inventory, rather you can carry creative designs with no risks. If a style sells, great; if not, you didn’t waste any money because it never physically existed.� While Feetz is still in the beta phase, Beard is confident it will appeal to consumers who struggle to find shoes that fit. Using SizeMe technology on their smartphones, Feetz shoppers will simply snap three photos of each foot to get an accurate 3-D model scan. “Retailers won’t need to plan nine months in advance,� she says. “If you need rain boots in July, you can push a button and get rain boots. Or if Michael Phelps wins gold at the Olympics and then designs a shoe, you can print that shoe and capitalize on a trend.�

While Rem D Koolhaas, creative director and cofounder of United Nude, thinks it will be many years before 3-D printing is a serious production source,

64 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

it didn’t stop him from using the technology to unveil 3-D printed shoes at his brand’s New York flagship last summer. “People were so surprised and impressed that sometimes the whole sidewalk in front of the store would be filled with people looking in the window and taking photos in awe,� Koolhaas recalls. For now, he says it’s more of a great traffic draw since it takes 22 hours to print one pair. “It’s more of a cool, attention-grabber now, rather than a direct business addition,� he says. “The prime goal is to share the knowledge rather than to use it as a fully functional production method.�

ĆŤ The technology is already here and more advancements are coming soon. Retailers need to accept that fact and embrace how it can help keep their businesses relevant in an increasingly omnichannel retail world.

The challenge is to find the programs that work, that create a more seamless shopping experience across physical stores, online and mobile. It’s becoming clearer every day: You can’t build a relationship through a screen alone, nor a store window. “Retailers may need fewer or smaller stores going forward, and will certainly have to get more inventive with the instore offering and experience, but that doesn’t need to be received with doom and gloom,� Editd’s Smith says. “Getting the product right, priced correctly and timed well will always be the key to successful retail and will drive shoppers no matter what.�

Marie-Claire Hoey, digital marketing manager for DNA Footwear, says its seven physical stores located in Brooklyn and Manhattan do just as much business as its virtual component. “What our offline presence really offers that we can’t online is that local, neighborhood customer relationship,� she says. In-store specific promotions include “Reduce, Reuse, Represent,� which Hoey explains is a great driver of repeat business. When customers purchase from a DNA Footwear store, they receive a branded canvas tote bag that will reward them with 10-percent off their next in-store purchase if they bring it back with them next time.

From top: 3-D foot Also in the pipeline, a click-and-collect proscanning at Left Shoe Company; choosing fabric gram, which will allow customers to buy at Nordstrom’s “Design online and pick up in store. “The evolution Your Own Shoes� studio; of e-commerce is not acting as a replacement “Bling it On� customizafor the traditional shopping journey, but as tion in an Ugg flagship; a shoe mid-print at United an additional option,� she says.

Nude and the finished Similarly, Rack Room Shoes and its subproduct (below). sidiary, Off Broadway Shoe Warehouse, offer an omnichannel experience through their “Ship 2 Home� program, which allows customers to purchase sizes not available in their local stores and have them sent directly to their residences.

Both chains’ e-commerce sites also offer customers the ability to find available sizes in nearby brick-and-mortar locations. “Many of today’s customers initiate their purchasing process online,â€? says Scott Baldt, senior director of omnichannel. “Our desire for both brands is to make the experience for customers as seamless as possible between the two spaces.â€? •

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SHOE MARKET HOE MARKET, A small, trend-setting boutique, is nestled in the heart of hipsterdom: Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Specifically, the 500-square-foot boutique sits along the nabe’s busy Bedford Avenue, amid a row of boutique shops offering up the finest wines and cheeses, rare books, indie fashions and, of course, specialty coffees.

Opened in 2007 by Dana Schwister and Erika Vala, Shoe Market may be small in size, but these ladies pack a punch in every inch available.

The limited space actually works in their favor, according to Schwister. It requires a sharp eye firmly focused on selection.

“You won’t come in here and find anything but key styles,” she asserts, noting they boast a collaborative work environment and incorporate their staff into buying trips. Combined, the staff has an inherit understanding of what’s of the moment. It’s a selection that spans approximately 50 brands (including All Black, Frye and Chelsea Crew) that often quickly pop up in other shops once they’ve earned the Shoe Market seal of approval.

In addition to style, Schwister says Shoe Market is committed to offering shoes that are comfortable for people to function in during their day-to-day lives. Brands in that mix include Born, Dansko and Camper. A variety of price points to serve a broad customer base is another important aspect of the store, which features a funky, retro-inspired vibe of vintage lamps, chandeliers and chairs, as well as cowhide footstools and deer skulls with full racks of antlers hung next to purse hooks on the wall. Very Brooklyn, indeed. —Lauren Fusilier What are this season’s best-selling brands and styles? Jeffrey Campbell always does really well. As for styling, we’ve done great with lug sole short boots and pointy-toed platform shoes. Anything shearling-lined did well, too.

Hottest colors? Black is always number one in New York. But white has also been a big color for us this fall, and I think it’ll carry over into spring. I think metallics are going to be big, as well as red.

What’s the best new brand you’ve added to the mix? We’ve been doing really well with Vagabond. They do fashion boots and shoes. Their lug soled ankle and pointy-toed boots did really well.

What are your best-selling accessories? Socks have performed great this season—wool performance socks, but also novelty socks. We’ve sold so many crazy printed socks with Day of the Dead skulls, pot leaves and Jesus on them.

Men love them because it’s a nice, subtle way to add color and fun to what they’re wearing.

How’s business been of late? It seems like it’s picking up a bit, but we had a slow year. Our best season is usually spring, but the late spring last year threw us off. We did have a small increase in the fall with women’s boots and it’s been climbing from there.

The best thing about this season has been…That it’s over! We made it through and we’re still here! [laughs] 66 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

The worst thing… Really, it wasn’t so bad. This fall wasn’t terrible, but it wasn’t great. It was kind of a break-even for us.

Do you think there’s anything missing in the market right now fashionwise? It feels like a lot of brands are all glomming onto the same trends and they keep getting repeated over and over. They seem to be copying what someone else has success with. It leaves us missing a new outlook and perspective.

Is there any trend you’d like to see go away? They all go away eventually, so I’m not going to get too wrapped up in any of them while they’re here.

What trends do you see on the horizon? The athletic trend will continue, I think. Also, metallics, especially as highlight touches, will be popular.

What are you on the lookout for as you shop the Fall ’15 market? Something that’s going to knock our socks off. I’d like to see some good mid-shaft boots.

In general, our customer seems to like things that are more streamlined so a lot of the time, the less the better.

Are there any up-and-coming designers or brands that you are keen on?

Ty McBride, a friend of ours, just launched his new Intentionally Blank line.

He used to work for Jeffrey Campbell and this is his first line for spring, so we’re very excited about that. He did a few really cool loafer mules that we haven’t seen before.

THE SPIRIT OF ‘ 76

361 Degrees

DESIGNERS GET THEIR GROOVE ON WITH RETROINSPIRED FLAIR FOR FALL.

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2015 february • footwearplusmagazine.com 7 1

Matisse patent leather loafer, creeper by T.U.K., Patrizia lace-up boot, metallic penny loafer by AndrĂŠ Assous. Opposite page: VOZ brogues with fabric inlays.

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Clockwise from top left: Superga bouclé sneaker, plaid slip-on by Groove Footwear, cap-toe wedge pump by Hush Puppies, Sperry Top-Siderƫtartan sneaker, Nina Originals bouclé kitten heel, buckle boot with wool blend inlay by Aetrex. Opposite: wingtip sneakers

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Plaid brogue by Charles David. Opposite: Nicole stacked heel oxfords with herringbone tweed inlay, floral dress worn as top and plaid skirt by Select Vintage Collections Malin Landaeus.

Fashion Editor: Tara Anne Dalbow; hair and makeup: Rita Madison; model: Amanda F./Red Model Management.

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High-voltage materials make a maximum impact on kids’ styles.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss

ME TALL I CA

Anais & I zip-up ankle boots.

Styled by Julie Williams; hair and makeup by Rita Madison.

84 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

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DESIGNER CHAT ĆŤ Nona

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BELLE ÉPOQUE

88 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

dent mood in step with fall’s fondness for all that is rich and indulgent. —Lyndsay McGregor What’s your first shoe memory? When my mom came home from the hospital with my baby sister when I was 4 years old. I jumped off the couch as soon as she walked in and she stepped right on my toe with her high heels.

More than the pain from being stepped on, what stood out to me most was that she was wearing high heels right after giving birth.

Cordani

Any famous feet you would love to see in one of your designs? Victoria Beckham, Kerry Washington, Kate Hudson and Miranda Kerr.

They’re all women with a strong sense of who they are and willing to take fashion risks.

Where do you like to shop? Bergdorf Goodman during Christmastime. It’s hands down the most wonderful, truly New York experience.

Which shoes in your closet are getting the most wear? With four children under the age of 8 at home, it’s my sneakers.

Dansko

Which designer do you most admire? Nancy Gonzalez. The craftsmanship and quality is out of this world.

What is your favorite part of your job?

Having the opportunity to collaborate with a tremendous group of people across every aspect of the business. Being hands-on and creating something unique with such talented individuals around the world is pretty spectacular. I feel lucky to be able to do what I do every day.

Calleen Cordero

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

IT’S SURPRISING THAT Nona Van Deusen is just now getting into the shoe game. After all, in 1998 the Wilmington, DE-based designer founded Stylebug, an e-commerce site offering elegant eveningwear from the likes of Oscar de la Renta, Christian Dior and Giorgio Armani that generally demands fancy heels. So, after years of clients begging her to start carrying shoes, Van Deusen finally put pencil to paper and started sketching her own designs. “Before long I had a collection of nearly 50 styles,� she says. Borrowing the name of both her grandmother and her daughter, Stalena was born.

Launching in Fall ’15, the Italian-made line features plenty of sleek styles suitable for glammed- up nights, not to mention boots and wedges worthy of an art gallery pedestal: a short leather bootie is accented with an oversized origami fan and a croc- and snakeskin-embossed wedge features geometric cut-outs and a high collar. “We like to push the envelope and take risks to deliver the ultimate footwear experience,�

Van Deusen says, adding that she’s driven by the desire for styles that “stand out in a crowd of oversaturated names.�

Sneakers and ballet flats are featured, too, but while Van Deusen may describe her debut collection as “the antithesis of opulence,� in reality it’s anything but. Retailing from $400 to $1,800, the abundance of luxe leathers, exotic skins, calf hair and metallic foil on show suggest a deca-

Latigo

E-beat

The New Social ShopSocially turns online customers into brand ambassadors that drive sales.

REMEMBER WHEN MARKETING gurus convinced retailers big and small that social media advertising could boost business? As it turns out, consumers by and large don’t appreciate unsolicited ads or sponsored posts popping up in their news feeds. According to a recent Gallup survey, 62 percent of Americans say social media advertising has no influence on their shopping habits. But that’s not to say certain social media posts have no sway: Friends’ opinions and referrals are a powerful tool and social commerce startup ShopSocially is aiming to harness that.

“We believe that the influence of what we buy is going to shift from ads to friends,” says Vibhushan Waghmare, marketing director for the ROI-driven platform that launched in 2010. “We have always known that word-ofmouth is the most effective form of recommendation and social media has created an opportunity for businesses to leverage that at a scale where it begins to move the needle for their business.”

The premise is simple: Encourage shoppers to share their purchases with friends and followers on social media. “This leverages the passion of existing customers and converts them into brand ambassadors,” Waghmare explains. And, according to a Forrester Research report, it’s seven times more effective than an ad. So how does ShopSocially tap this well of possibility? With plans starting at $6,000 per month, the site offers a series of social apps that retailers can embed into their existing websites, within marketing campaigns or on their Facebook page, offering a range of functions, including “customer loyalty” (rewards customers for e-commerce activity) and “photomonials” (consumers share “selfies” showcasing their purchases). Each social post created acts as a word-of-mouth promotion and generates quality friend traffic.

“With one simple integration involving adding a couple lines of code to their website, retailers can have access to a wealth of customizable tools to create measurable, repeatable and scalable marketing campaigns,” Waghmare says, noting that clients (including American Apparel, Target and Bluefly) have seen conversion rates increase by up to 20 percent as well as up to a 10 percent growth in incremental traffic. In fact, in 2014 alone ShopSocially’s modules drove sales for every seventh interaction for its clients. “It’s not about soft metrics such as brand impressions, reach, social sentiments, etc,” Waghmare says. “It’s all about delivering substantial ROI.” —Lyndsay McGregor 90 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

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Aaron Brown SHOEme

best merchandise, whether that’s a top-shelf name or an up-and-comer. Technology, of course, will be a key player in this search.

“There will always be an ‘artistic’ side to buying,” he says, “but using technology to analyze sales, recognize sales trends, and forecast and plan for upcoming seasons helps us from both an efficiency and timeliness perspective.”—L.M.

RIGHT SHOE, RIGHT price, right time. That’s the mantra Aaron Brown was taught back in 1991 when he worked in the stockroom at Nordstrom, and he’s lived by it ever since.

“As a buyer I try to be openminded and look at every shoe and brand possible because you never know what will hit a home run,” he says.

It’s a philosophy that’s served Brown well. After nine years at Nordstrom, he spent a few years on the road with Dr. Martens before making his way to Zappos at a time, he says, “when most people felt we couldn’t sell shoes online.” Last March he joined SHOEme (whose portfolio of e-tailers includes OnlineShoes.com, Shoes.com and SHOEme.ca) where he’s played a lead role in adding nearly 400 new brands.

Brown has no intention of resting on his recent brand portfolio laurels. “In 2015, I’d love to find a couple of fresh, new, aspiring brands that we could partner with to grow our combined businesses,” he says, noting that he’s committed to providing consumers with the

What are some of the key trends for Fall ’15? We’ll see wedges, flats, urban western, heavy-unit bottoms, man-tailored, outdoor hiking/ utilitarian, fringe, a little moto and athletic influences.

What about colors? Merlot, reddish browns, taupe and khaki as well as animal print and pony hair.

Will boots be big? There are a lot of short boots and shooties for early fall, but as the season goes on and the weather gets colder I think mid-calf and over-the-knee boots will be important.

Did anything surprise you over the past year?

Birkenstock has become one of our brightest stars. It’s a fantastic partner and over the years we’ve watched it reach new audiences with popular styles like the white Arizona and Gizeh. It’s really great to see how well it’s doing.

If you weren’t in retail, what would you be doing? Footwear manufacturing and wholesale.

I love the business too much to do anything else.

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UPCLOSE COMFORT

Dressing Up The Sartorial Revolution Earth Brands offers a comfort spin on contemporary style.

HOW DO COMFORT shoes go modern? Gary Champion, president of Earth Brands, believes it’s achieved through a dual process involving proven comfort features and benefits coupled with contemporary style. For the company’s Earthies brand this means adding nuanced features to the collection, including heel shapes, fine leathers, subtle details and overall design that appeals to a more fashion-forward, sophisticated customer.

The Earth brand sticks a little closer to the traditional Euro comfort look, but with updated colors and details such as buckles and material stories that give the line an edge over other brands to catch a woman’s eye. “That’s what it’s all about,” Champion states, “the styling has to attract women, draw them in, and then the feel is what closes the sale.”

Champion has high expectations for the company’s entire fall portfolio.

“Earthies looks cohesive and possesses enough sophistication to distinguish it from Earth and the competion,” he says. “Earth looks fantastic and Earth Origins continues to perform well in big box stores at a value price.

And we are also re-launching our negative heel Kalso brand.”

Champion expects booties will continue to play a key role for next fall, as well as flats and mid-level boots. Deep, rich reds will add a bright pop, a toned-down off-navy blue will feature as a neutral option and he sees greens in shades and saturations to act as an alternative to traditional black and brown as especially exciting. Leather treatments will add depth and life to the materials with burnished, brushed and ultra-soft options in the mix. Details like multi buckles, harnesses, quilting and braided straps spice up staple silhouettes. Perhaps most importantly, Champion predicts, “It’ll be more about design than about a killer new category coming on board.”

To showcase the emphasis on overall design, Champion advises retailers to dress up their interiors, making stores look fresh and exciting the minute customers walk in. And, of course, follow that impression up with excellent customer service. Champion draws a link between creating a special, pleasurable shopping experience and why customers are more likely to return. In between visits, connect with customers through social media to learn what they’re looking for and tailor the mix to meet their needs that encourage a return visit.

Now that Champion feels the Earth portfolio is fully established, he looks forward to continuing to build a strong team and culture at the company in order to grow the market share across a range of distribution channels. The future depends on staying on top of design, continuing to create exciting products for consumers and adapting with the trends to stay contemporary. This, Champion is confident, will keep the company growing towards his goal of being a significant player in the industry’s largest category: comfort. —Lauren Fusilier 92 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

A leader in athletic insoles, OrthoLite seeks to conquer the dress market.

ORTHOLITE, A LEADING insole brand found in top athletic footwear brands such as Nike, Adidas, Asics and Puma, is looking to expand its presence beyond the performance footwear market. Pamela Gelsomini, president, believes the market is ripe for proven technical upgrades as consumers demand comfort and performance in all their footwear styles.

“We can make any shoe, any activity more comfortable by putting OrthoLite insoles inside,” Gelsomini states, attributing the company’s 18-year track record of success to that fact. “Bottom line, our products truly do what we say it will,” she adds.

It all began with OrthoLite’s revolutionary material that combined long-term cushioning capabilities with breathability, moisture-wicking and antimicrobial properties. The insoles keep feet comfortable, cool, dry and fresh for longer without adding significant weight to a shoe and, what’s more, they are washable.

New innovations include the EcoPlush insole, 25 percent of which is composed of environmentally friendly foam derived from castor oil, and the Imperial and Imperial Plus foam technologies. The latter two versions feature much higher density foams that allow them to be very thin so that they can easily fit inside dress shoes. “These two new items provide lots of comfort in a very thin package,” Gelsomini says, adding, “we absolutely want to expand our reach in the dress market for 2015.” While OrthoLite’s portfolio of brand partners already includes leading men’s dress brands such as Hugo Boss and Allen Edmonds, the women’s dress segment remains largely untapped, though Michael Kors and Seychelles incorporate OrthoLite insoles into select styles.

Also on tap for Fall ’15 is the debut of OrthoLite’s patchwork insole.

Extending the brand’s sustainability platform, the insole incorporates scrap and waste foam materials into a jigsaw-like pattern that overlays the different foam technology options. Scraps will also be used to make hang tags to adorn shoes so that consumers have the opportunity to feel the foam. Gelsomini adds that the company is exploring the use of its products for other parts of the shoe, such as the tongue and collar, as well as expanding its offering beyond footwear to include backpack straps, gloves, protective equipment and “anywhere someone might need cooler, dryer comfort next to their skin.”

Another goal for OrthoLite going forward is to establish a standalone brand presence at retail. Its Fusion insole is currently available on Amazon.com, and Gelsomini says plans are in the works to expand much further than that. In the meantime, OrthoLite will continue cobranding to generate consumer awareness and lay the groundwork for an expansion that Gelsomini thinks will take the company to the next level. “Our long-term goal is to make OrthoLite a recognizable brand in every household,” she says. —L.F.

continued from page 20 the ease and insouciance of Normcore will persevere but the homogeneity of collections has to change. “There is so much copying of everything,” he says.

“The customer wants something new and fresh, but still easy and sophisticated.” For Wal & Pai’s fall collection that translates to details hidden in the stitching and fabrics on an array of slip-ons and ankle boots. Natural materials such as fur, shearling, leather and wood are also prevalent as Waldman anticipates a return to craftsmanship and artisan materials. Wal & Pai places the emphasis on comfort and cozy silhouettes that can be worn all day. “People are getting tired of finagled materials and will return to luxury grains and old-school craftsmanship, but done in a way that’s modern and not too loud,” he predicts, noting that American fashions will begin to more closely resemble European designs with an emphasis on comfort, luxury and simplicity.

“You don’t have to follow fashion trends to look modern, sophisticated and fashionable,” Waldman offers. “Women can look beautiful without pain, and without wearing anything too sexy or flashy.”

It’s a consumer mindset and fashion aesthetic that Waldman says is percolating through small, hip communities throughout the United States, particularly in his home base of Los Angeles. “People are wearing very comfortable, beautiful clothes, but it’s so well put together that it doesn’t look like ‘I wear designer,’” he explains. “It’s not the clothes you see, it’s the person.” Waldman adds that department stores that continue to carry too much of the same merchandise will only push shoppers toward small boutiques where they can find up-and-coming designers and less ubiquitous styles.

Dory Benami, co-owner of Peruvian-made footwear brand Fortress of Inca, shares a similar penchant for artisan craftsmanship and design simplicity.

“We focus inward and utilize what is available to us in Peru—great leathers, wood and rubber,” he notes. Benami emphasizes the importance of timeless and classic silhouettes that are versatile and not too flashy as being important for Fall ’15, rather than chasing any one particular trend. The latest collection is pared down to the minimum, even the paint on the wood heels is removed for a more natural look. “Everything that is unnecessary is being stripped away, and that’s why it’s so important to have the best materials,” he explains, adding that flats and ankle boots will continue to be important, as well as an emphasis on comfort regardless of silhouette.

Budin of Madison Harding also sees the industry embracing natural materials and interpreting them in deconstructed, outdoorsy and organic ways that will coincide well with the resurgence of the ’70s-inspired trend.

“We’re going to see a lot of wood and raw leathers with a focus on comfortable and casual styles,” she explains. Budin predicts a new deconstructed sneaker shape that bears resemblance to a moccasin as well as the resurgence of closed-toe clogs. Madison Harding’s fall collection will feature an array of espadrilles, moccasins, platforms and clogs. Budin adds that the heavy ’70s influence will allow for embellishment play in the form of subtle fringe and beading details.

NPD Chief Industry Analyst Marshal Cohen says consumers will ultimately decide what comes next—as always. And while he expects to see both the futuristic, sport-inspired evolution of Normcore as well as the artisan, organic offshoot come to market this year, it is yet to be determined if one aesthetic wins out. “I would lean toward the traditional, cozy comfort side,” Cohen says—at first. “But down the road, as the consumer grows accustomed to futuristic materials, they will begin to gravitate toward that.”

Regardless, Cohen says designers need to home in on their personal aesthetic and create unique products. “We need product that allows the consumer to be personal in their selections,” he notes. “Right now everyone is following the same direction.” There’s too much me-too product on the shelves.

He attributes this, in part, to having greater access to information than ever before, which means all sources are pulling from the same resources. “We are looking at such a finite picture,” Cohen says. “Designers need to make it exciting to shop again. They need to make unique products that convince consumers to buy. We need reinvention!”

It’s a growing industry sentiment, actually, that runs opposed to Normcore’s premise of shunning the new. And that’s a good thing. It’s up to the fashion industry to put an end to the anti-fashion movement. •

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UPCLOSE KIDS

Spanish Accent Cienta continues on its eco-friendly and colorful roll.

Charting a New Path Vida Group’s M.A.P. brand gets kids into the great outdoors for less.

IN THE SHOE business since 1973 and boasting such brands as Jambu and J-41 under its umbrella, few contest Vida Group’s expertise in the outdoor footwear arena. So when buyers reported that the market was underserved when it came to moderately priced outdoor shoes for children, Vida Kids stepped in to fill the void with the launch of M.A.P. “Sometimes you need more than gym shoes to play outside,” reports Michelle Hinsvark, marketing director, adding, “We want to serve those kids at an affordable price point.” Wholesale prices for the Fall ’15 collection range from $19 to $27.50.

M.A.P. is an acronym for “motion, adventure, play” and these words acted as guideposts for design inspiration. According to Hinsvark, the focus is on creating footwear that allows kids to get outside and take part in the outdoor activities that they love. The Fall ’15 collection contains a waterproof line, all-weather footbeds and advanced traction features to improve grip. Uppers come in canvas, nylon and suede and feature fur trim and adjustable lacing options. Styles include rugged Mary Janes, snow boots, alpine hikers and trail runners for toddlers sizes 5 to 10 and girls and boys sizes 11 to 5.

Director of Design Naly Lee says the girls’ line features burgundy, navy and gray with pops of multicolor sparkle and neons in turquoise and pink to add a twist to the traditional earthy outdoor color palette.

Boys’ also incorporates neon accents in turquoise and green with burnt orange, saturated red, classic gray and shades of blue. “In this price range most waterproof and outdoor footwear is just a takedown of adult styles,” Lee notes, “but we’re trying to do something that kids will be excited to reach out and grab.” Hinsvark adds the reaction from early previews has been strong. “It fits a niche because there isn’t much out there in the marketplace serving this category,” she says.

In addition to attention-getting styling, M.A.P. is also taking its name to heart by incorporating geographical and map details into the designs.

Lee cites such examples as outsoles inspired by the face of glaciers and unique terrain imagery. “We are striving to tie the geography found in nature into our designs and hopefully we plan to incorporate this in a way that helps educate kids,” Lee says. —Lauren Fusilier 94 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

IT ALL STARTED back in 1982 in Arnedo, Spain, a little town located in the northern region of Rioja renowned for its wine and shoe craftsmanship. There, the makers of Cienta, distributed by Unitrends USA, used old-world production techniques to make eco-friendly shoes.

For example, instead of using chemical-heavy glues to attach the uppers, the brand uses a press machine that employs steam to adhere the rubber to the fabric. And to earn its European “Made in Green” tag, its uppers are made of high-quality organic raw materials featuring earthfriendly dyes.

So far so good as Cienta is the fastest growing brand in the extensive Unitrends portfolio, reports Nicolas Alonso, director of sales at Unitrends USA. A partnership that began somewhat serendipitously in 2009, Alonso says the company had been focused on high-end leather shoes when one of its clients mentioned that Cienta was in the market for a new U.S. distributor. After a review of its portfolio revealed a gap in Unitrends’ vulcanized rubber and canvas footwear offerings, a deal was made. “We saw Cienta as a mass market brand that we just didn’t have,” Alonso states. Cienta seemed like a perfect fit and while many manufacturers have been outsourcing such product to Asia, the company has been able to stand its ground in Europe with wholesale price points ranging $18 to $25. The results speak for themselves: Cienta entered the Unitrends portfolio with one online retailer on its account list (Zappos) and about 250 brick-and-mortar retailers. In the five years since those distribution numbers have zoomed to 1,850 stores and eight online-only retailers. It has also built a celebrity following along the way that includes the likes of Halle Berry’s and Jessica Alba’s kids. The most popular style is the canvas “56” Mary Jane, which is available in an array of colors and patterns.

The brand is moving toward a trendier aesthetic for Fall ’15 with the introduction of chukka boots in luxe suede and heavier canvas lined with synthetic fur. The boots wholesale for $30 to $34. For girls, metallics are prevalent in pink, fuchsia, a spectrum of grays from silver to gunmetal, purple and aqua. Variations of brown, navy and gray will be available for boys. The “56” will also get an update, appearing in the metallic gray spectrum, as well as other darker tints, and adding black sole options to the mix. Another new style for fall is a laceless sneaker with a capped toe available in distressed canvas and leather versions.

The collection is offered in European sizes 21 to 36.

Alonso describes Cienta as fun and unique, pointing to the bright and wild color options as part of its overall whimsical aesthetic.

Cienta’s quality is also unbeatable, he claims. “They’re just a touch and feel product,” he says. “The look grabs you, they’re so flexible and feel great, and the price is excellent.” —L.F.

O&A continued from page 27 How is the online retailing tier impacting your business?

Women have changed their shopping habits. She’s most likely working and it’s harder to take the kids to the shoe store. Think about the old days: Mothers had to put the baby in a car seat, round up the bigger kids who didn’t want to go shopping, then the baby throws up on one of the bigger kids, then she has to clean it up—all before she starts driving! Then she has to find a parking spot—argue for that spot—and then has to get the baby into a stroller, go into the store and wait for service only to be told they don’t have the shoe she wants in stock. That’s a nightmare. Now, after a whole day at work followed by making dinner and putting the kids to bed, she turns on her computer, pours a glass of wine and shops. And if it doesn’t work or fit, she sends it back. That’s just how shopping has changed.

Ok, by that scenario you basically made kids’ brick-and-mortar stores obsolete. Can that tier survive?

Of course it can. Consumers can always benefit from that one-on-one experience if the service is really good. I had customers wait hours for me to fit their kids when I worked at Lester’s because I was performing a valuable service by providing what was healthy for their children. There are pockets of retailers around the country that still offer that—like Harry’s in New York and Little’s in Pittsburgh—but there’s no school or training program for it.

Might online be the ultimate competitor for independents in general?

It’s definitely hurting them. But I think they can service their local communities the way online retailers are trying to service the world. Again, it’s problem-solving and changing with the times. If you don’t, you’re dead. I also come from that independent retailing world and believe they are very important because they can show the breadth of a brand, whereas department stores tend to pigeonhole brands into certain aspects. I always see opportunity. I know if I opened a store today, I could be successful at it.

What would your store be like?

It would be all about customer service and assortment. It would be about fit, service and what the customer is not getting elsewhere. You have to have a reason for being, otherwise you are not giving a reason for the customer to come into your store. But if you don’t do it right when they do come in, then that customer isn’t coming back. Harry’s is doing it right: they fit kids correctly, offer good service and the inventory is right. There’s a reason why they’ve been successful over the years. There have been plenty of other shoe stores that were once based in Manhattan who aren’t there anymore, and there are reasons why they are not.

Do you have any advice for retailers?

Trust the brand information. We spend a lot of time traveling, sourcing and marketing to our consumers with a specific message. Sometimes retailers will pigeonhole a brand into a corner that they need to fill rather than stay true to the brand’s core product statement. I would also advise to work closer with your vendors to plan your business earlier so we can work earlier with the factories to get you what you need. When orders meet a set deadline we can better command the price and delivery you need. Too often, however, we tell our retailers to get their orders in before Chinese New Year (February) and a lot of them don’t. Then they come to us later wanting a price on a certain boot for a certain delivery date that we can’t meet. While other compa-

nies might take the order anyway and run around China trying to figure out how to fulfill it, we believe that causes a domino affect of poor quality and shipping delays, which doesn’t stay true to the brand’s integrity. We won’t do that. Instead, we try and work closely with our partners so they understand what their needs are and, if they follow our schedule, we will deliver quality and on time. That way we can both succeed going forward.

It sounds like common sense, but retailers want to buy later and later.

They are all waiting to get their open-to-buys and their style-outs completed, which I understand. But why not come to our showroom and pick 30 styles that you’re really confident about—five to 10 of which you probably had in your mix last year. Even if it seems unorthodox to buy it in January, do it because you are going to need it next fall. At least that way I can get your order on some boots as well as your back-to-school staples going early at the price and delivery dates you need. That way I can get our factory partners to work when they are not as busy. And, you know what, maybe we can work out an arrangement that gets you a better price because they are not so busy. That will enable you to be more profitable and everybody is happy. What usually happens, however, the orders pour in after the Vegas show, which leads to a chain of events that the factories control by raising their prices. So when I hear a retailer complain about pricing, often it’s the result of poor planning and not sourcing correctly.

You speak with far too much common sense for our industry.

(Laughs) Well, I’ve made enough mistakes in the past and I’ve been able to learn from them all. Along those lines, every partnership is different and we take a very economical, practical and conscientious approach to what is right for us as well as all of our partners. And when I say “all of our partners,” I’m referring to our brands, factories, retailers and consumers—everyone is included.

Where do you see LJP in five years?

I see us continuing to grow and adding more brands to our portfolio. I have big dreams and goals. I have dedicated my life to this industry and I’m always striving. During our recent holiday party, I told everyone that I work for them.

We are a teaching company and anything I can do to better them, betters me.

I can’t do it alone. I need to surround myself with people greater than me to help me achieve my goals.

“Maybe we can work out a better price because [the factories] are not so busy.”

You need to find the next Larry Paparo.

Yes and one such person is Wayne Bailey, our COO, who has helped double our business this year. I always wondered when I might find my Larry—someone who will work with the same passion and vengeance that I approach the day with. Wayne’s here before me in the mornings; nobody did that before. It allows me to go focus on other areas, like bringing on more brands.

What do you love most about your job?

I love coming to work every day. I am very passionate about what I do. I strive for perfection and demand the same work ethic from everyone around me. I feel privileged to work with great brands and retail partners— I see it as an honor. And, of course, I’m privileged to work with my LJP team and the ability to think of an idea, develop it, produce it and then ship it is pretty amazing. When I see our shoes come out of the box and, for example, watch a little girl hug her mom…

That’s what we set out to do. We made a difference. I love what we do. • 2015 february • footwearplusmagazine.com 95

LAST WORD

Do-Gooders

SHOE L G VERS IN ARMS

Footwear and philanthropy go hand in hand at DSW. By Lyndsay McGregor

DSW donated a total of $110,000 to eight charities as part of its Leave Your Mark Campaign.

AN UNUSUAL E-MAIL landed in DSW’s Media Relations inbox recently. It wasn’t a request for an interview with one of the Columbus, OH-based chain’s executives, but a heartfelt expression of gratitude from a customer who simply wanted to say thank you for the retailer’s $75,000 donation to the National Parkinson Foundation, winner of the latest Shoe Lovers Care platform’s Leave Your Mark campaign. The note read: “I’m in my ninth year of Parkinson’s and they’ve been so helpful…They truly are a wonderful resource to those in need.”

That, in a nutshell, sums up why DSW goes above and beyond to support the philanthropic passions of its employees, says Camille Merkle, director of customer engagement. “We know that customers really have a desire to buy from and engage with companies who give back to society and the community,” she states. And that’s where Shoe Lovers Care comes in. “It was created to capture all of the charitable work that our associates are doing and connect that work to the broader community,” Merkle explains. As DSW’s philanthropic platform, it’s made up of three key programs that help the company make a difference: Lend a Hand brings associates together to volunteer for worthy causes; Lead the Way rewards associates for dedicating their time to 96 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2015

nonprofits; and Leave Your Mark, which launched in 2013, relies on associates to nominate national and local charities and then, along with consumers, vote for one of eight finalists to receive a $75,000 donation.

For the most recent edition of the now biannual Leave Your Mark program, more than 320,000 votes were cast during one week in November. The National Parkinson Foundation, nominated by store associate Katie Back whose mother was diagnosed with the disease last year, received the lion’s share. “Not only were we able to give financial support to an organization that’s impacting Katie and her family, but we were also able to generate awareness for the disease amongst Katie’s peers, colleagues and community,” Merkle notes.

But that’s not all: in addition, seven runner-up organizations—Amethyst Inc., CHA Animal Shelter, Donate Life America, National Multiple Sclerosis Society, Soles4Souls, Northern Illinois Food Bank and St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital—each received a $5,000 donation from DSW. Previous winners have included Autism Speaks and the Alzheimer’s Association.

DSW President and CEO Mike MacDonald says that the level of community involvement and interaction that comes out of campaigns like Leave Your Mark is oftentimes more effective than just writing a check. “What we find is that the organizations who receive money appreciate that, but they so much more appreciate the awareness and publicity that we’re able to create on their behalf through social media. That means more to them than the money itself because that can create more contributions from all those people who are exposed to that social media presence down the road,” he explains.

Merkle says Leave Your Mark also serves as an inspiration not only to DSW’s employees but to its shoppers, too. “What’s really motivating about this program is that our employees and loyal customers can see how the likes of Katie can be a strong associate with DSW but also continue to have all this passion for an organization that’s impacting her life,” she says.

Leave Your Mark will return this spring and Merkle is confident the level of associate and consumer interaction will grow. “When we launched the first campaign you could only vote on your desktop and we received less than 50,000 votes, so in 2014 we made changes to make it easier for customers to vote, enabled mobile voting and upped it to two campaigns, one in June and one in November, and both received more than 300,000 votes each,” she says, adding that DSW will continue to utilize technology to further engage its associates and customers. It’s a win-win, Merkle says. “We know our associates give back through their own individual donations and their time, so for DSW to be able to support them and their beliefs really shows that we care and support our ‘Shoe Lover’ community.”

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