Footwear Plus Magazine | January 2015

OUTDOOR PREVIEW : FASHION + FUNCTION

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TALKING WITH WOLK Y

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Back in Black

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BOOT TRENDS A TO Z

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EDITOR’S PICKS : PEEP SHOW

Congratulations to all Nominees

2014 PLUS AWARDS EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN & RETAIL MEN’S COMFORT Rockport Ecco Merrell Clarks

LITTLE BLACK DRESS Michael by Michael Kors Vince Camuto Nine West Tory Burch

OUTDOOR STYLE Taos Sorel Dansko Minnetonka

WOMEN’S COMFORT Naot Cobb Hill Bernie Mev Birkenstock

MEN’S COLLECTION Wolverine 1000 Mile Abington by Timberland Clarks Originals Sperry Top-Sider

SURF Sanuk OluKai Vans Reef

BOOTS Ugg Australia Dr. Martens Hunter Frye

WOMEN’S COLLECTION Lucky Brand Steve Madden Sam Edelman Jessica Simpson

COWBOY BOOTS Justin Lucchese Durango Ariat

RUNNING Brooks Asics Skechers GoRun Hoka One One

CHILDREN’S Keen Stride Rite Jambu Toms

ONLINE RETAILER Heels Zappos Solestruck OnlineShoes (Write-in)

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE New Balance Converse Vans Nike SB

BEST COLLAB Taylor Swift x Keds Pharrell Williams x Adidas Originals Karl Lagerfeld x Melissa Samantha Pleet x Wolverine 1000 Mile

BEST KICKS COLLABS Concepts x Converse “Aran Sweater” Ronnie Fieg x Puma Disc Blaze “Coat of Arms” Atmos x Nike Free “Woven” Bodega x Vans Vault “Fleece Pack” SUIT & TIE Allen Edmonds Johnston & Murphy Ecco Cole Haan

WORK BOOTS Wolverine Rocky Justin Original Workboots Red Wing OUTDOOR Merrell Keen The North Face Salomon

SIT & FITS Harry’s Shoes Reyers Shoes Comfort One The Shoe Buckle (Write-in) NATIONAL CHAIN Nordstrom DSW Famous Footwear Off Broadway Shoe Warehouse (Write-in)

BOUTIQUE Moxie Walin & Wolff The Shoe Hive Bird (Write-in) BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE WHOLESALE (Write-in only) BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE RETAIL (Write-in only) BRAND OF THE YEAR Birkenstock Vans Skechers Ugg Australia Nike COMPANY OF THE YEAR Wolverine Worldwide Skechers Deckers Brands VF Corp.

Nike Brown Shoe Company

JANUARY 2015 Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Lyndsay McGregor Senior Editor Social Media Editor Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor

12 A Real Fall for All Fall ’15 boot trends span decades, genres, materials, genders and movements. By Tara Anne Dalbow

Lauren Fusilier Assistant Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer

14 A Life’s Work Anthony Dikks, CEO of Wolky, discusses how the Euro comfort brand is skewing younger and aiming to be a year-round force.

By Greg Dutter

Judy Leand Contributing Editor ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

36 Ready for Anything Outdoor brands unleash an avalanche of designs chock-full of performance and style versatility for Fall ’15.

By Lyndsay McGregor

Capri Crescio Advertising Manager Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager Allison Kastner Operations Manager

40 The Theory of Evolution With the recent acquisition of Shoes.com and OnlineShoes.com, SHOEme aims for $1 billion in annual sales by 2020. By Lauren Fusilier

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Joel Shupp Circulation Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director

44 The Gentle Man Dapper details lend a sophisticated hand to classic men’s boot silhouettes.

By Tara Anne Dalbow 46 Blackbird Structured heels and sleek details give fall’s must-have short silhouette an added dose of attitude.

By Tara Anne Dalbow

Cat Footwear

PA G E

44

PA G E

46 6 Editor’s Note 8 This Just In 10 Scene & Heard 20 Trend Spotting 39 What’s Selling 56 Shoe Salon 62 Dress 64 Comfort 66 E-beat 68 Last Word

On the cover: Summit White Mountain cut-out bootie with double buckle, dress

by Thomas Wylde, tights by Adrienne Vittadini.

This page: fringe top by Rachel Zoe.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss; Fashion Editor: Tara Anne Dalbow; stylist: Claudia Talamas; hair and makeup: Rita Madison; prop stylist: Cecilia Elguero/Kate Ryan; model: Madison M./ Major Model Management.

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl.

New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

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E D I TO R ’S N OT E Get Smart

LOSE THE BLINDERS An educational series in cooperation with Deckers Brands will look within and beyond our industry for insights and solutions.

IT’S EASY TO go through life with blinders on. It’s tempting to settle into a less challenging and more comfortable routine that works under the (misguided) premise: “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” But what if it’s actually breaking and you’re just blind to the fact?

Sometimes living with blinders comes from a stubborn conviction that there’s nothing new under the sun. Why bother even looking? The unknown can also be frightening and the idea of change overwhelming. But if you only look straight ahead you risk making a beeline toward a cliff. The old adage “ignorance is bliss” was never a compliment. Nor was it ever a successful long-term business strategy.

Yet there are countless examples of wholesalers and retailers who’ve resisted change. By the time they finally realized they had to adapt or die, it was already too late. For every bygone trend, market segment, business model, technology, retail format, etc., there is a scrap heap of companies that failed or refused to see the warning signs. Tunnel vision was the root of their demise. And despite a long list of well-publicized casualties, it’s happening just as regularly, and at a faster clip, today. The fact is, business moves more quickly than ever and the margins for error have never been narrower. Throw in innovations and technological advancements that make entire industries obsolete before they even reach adolescence, and it’s easy to see that companies operating with blinders on are shortening their lifespan exponentially.

Companies need to look beyond their industry for insights and ideas.

You’ve got to look right, left, above, down, behind, forward and inward— continually. We don’t live in a vacuum. What works in another industry might be just the solution for ours. The trick, however, is not to lose sight of who you are and where you want to go. You have to recognize what’s just noise and avoid rabbit holes.

That’s where Footwear Plus comes into the equation. For 25 years our mission has been to serve as a resource and a filter to showcase what’s new, noteworthy and unique. Above all, our goal is to present opportunities and solutions for our readers. Our dedicated team of journalists is always listening, looking and digging for that next great item and finding that up-and-coming brand tucked away down some endless aisle at a trade show. We’re always on the lookout for retailers to profile who— rather than resist change—embrace it, adapt and thrive. We’ve covered countless success stories and they serve as inspiration and roadmaps for us all. And just when I think I’ve seen and heard it all, something 6 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

new comes along. We also must continually look beyond our industry to the world at large.

With that in mind, it is with great pleasure that I announce our partnership with Deckers Brands (makers of Ugg Australia, Teva, Sanuk, Hoka One One, Ahnu, Tsubo and Mozo) to create the Footwear Network Series. Over the next year, each issue of Footwear Plus will showcase a topic designed to help retailers look beyond their four walls for insights, instruction and possible solutions to their most pressing business concerns. We’ll tap into Deckers Brands’ deep resources and expert contacts in retail, marketing, trend forecasting, consumer analysis and technology to present exclusive thought-provoking content.

It’s a concept that originated over drinks with Angel Martinez, CEO of Deckers Brands, Footwear Plus Publisher Caroline Diaco and myself during the recent FFANY show in New York. (The best ideas often develop casually and organically.) We were discussing the general state of retail and, specifically, the revolutionary change online shopping is having on all formats. Invariably, the talk came around to whether brick-andmortar retailers can survive in the face of competition that is unlike anything they’ve ever been up against. I was encouraged by Martinez’s initial response: The industry needs good retailers for its long-term benefit. The former running specialty storeowner went on to say that consumers want variety in their shopping experiences, an important component of which can be an in-store experience that features topnotch service, an inviting ambiance and social interaction. That can never be replicated online. Martinez added that if he were opening a store today, it’d be service on steroids. By no means did Martinez think he wouldn’t be able to succeed at it, either.

Of course, shoppers also want the ability to shop online. Basically, they want it all, and retailers must be willing and able to adapt to those demands. Trying to offer one or the other is a fool’s errand.

That’s why the advice and expertise to be featured in the Footwear Network Series is aimed at helping all retailers navigate a road ahead that is assuredly filled with twists, turns and potholes—dangers that anyone wearing blinders would surely miss. On behalf of Deckers Brands and Footwear Plus, we look forward to an informative journey.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

THIS JUST IN

SHORT AND SWEET A transitional silhouette, short boots make a snappy statement before the deep snows of winter arrive. Photography by Melodie Jeng 8 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

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Rihanna Teams with Puma PUMA IS ABOUT to get a serious shot of sex appeal. Starting this month, seven-time Grammy Award-winning singer Rihanna will become the German brand’s global ambassador for women’s fitness and serve as its creative director for women’s products. Renowned for her risqué fashion choices (she received the CFDA’s Fashion Icon award last year), the 26-year-old will directly influence the apparel and footwear design process starting as part of a multi-year partnership as soon as this spring.

Bjorn Gulden, Puma CEO, describes the Barbados native as “a natural choice” for the gig. “Her global profile, her charisma and individuality, her ambition—all these things make her a perfect ambassador for our brand,” he states. Adam Petrick, global brand and marketing director, adds, “Puma admires her for never waiting for the next big thing, but more so for driving what happens next.”

In addition to her design duties, Rihanna will appear in the brand’s new Forever Faster campaign alongside Jamaican sprinter Usain Bolt and Italian soccer star Mario Balotelli.

At present, Puma’s women’s category accounts for less than 50 percent of sales, but the sports brand is confident its new partnership with Rihanna will increase sales in the gender. The artist already has a track record of success: Her two limited-edition collections in 2013 with British high-street retailer River Island boosted its overall sales by 4 percent and her RiRi Woo lipstick for Mac sold out within three hours of its release. Then there’s her 14.1 million followers on Instagram and 38.3 million followers on Twitter that surely will be able to get the word out on her latest Puma designs. In fact, when she Instagrammed a shot of herself wearing white Puma creepers (inset), it garnered nearly 300,000 “likes” in less than 24 hours.

Ken Hicks (right) was presented with a symbol of thanks by Tim O’ Donovan (left) and Neal Newman (center) at Two Ten’s gala.

Two Ten Gala Breaks Record TWO TEN FOOTWEAR Foundation had lots to celebrate at its 75th anniversary gala held last month in New York. The event raised a record $2.7 million from both corporate and individual contributions as 1,600 industry people came together in an evening of philanthropy and celebration.

Festivities included a sit-down dinner and auction for 350 attendees, followed by an industry-wide mixer with music, cocktails and food. One of the evening’s many highlights was the presentation of the prestigious Bob Campbell Lifetime Achievement Award to Tim O’Donovan, 10 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

retired chairman and CEO of Wolverine Worldwide, who served on the Two Ten board for 23 years, including two years as its chairman and currently as the tri-chair of its Honorary Board.

Two Ten President Neal Newman expressed his gratitude to Gala Chair, Ken. C. Hicks, outgoing executive chairman of the board at Foot Locker, and the rest of the committee for making the event a smashing success. “Raising money is difficult in any economy, but the footwear community really takes care of its own, especially when emergency calls have increased 155 percent in recent years,” he says.

A “Boston” Homecoming CONCEPTS OF CAMBRIDGE, MA, and Birkenstock released a limitededition collaboration of the comfort brand’s iconic “Boston” closed sandal last month.

The partnership marks a step toward women’s for Concepts (most of its previous such endeavors have been maleoriented sneaker releases) and a chance for Birkenstock to make a statement to a customer base usually on the hunt for athletic brands and styling.

“I’m a big fan of what Concepts does on the athletic side, and they are big fans of our brand. It was a natural connection,” says David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock USA, adding that it’s a way for the brand to stand out. “This separates us from the usual comfort brands. And having iconic silhouettes gives us the license to update and keep them relevant like Nike does with its Air Force 1 style.”

Why the “Boston,” specifically? Kahan reports that demand for the model is growing in key trend accounts.

Partnering with Concepts, he adds, is a way to further engage leading-edge consumers.

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SPECIAL REPORT

A Real Fall for All

Fall ’15 boot trends span decades, genres, materials, genders and movements— all the while combining fashion with function. By Tara Anne Dalbow

T’S LITTLE SURPRISE that the boot silhouette is expected to reign supreme next fall. ’Tis the season; however, unlike the past several years when a particular brand, silhouette or aesthetic ruled, this upcoming fall looks to be much more of a style free-for-all.

Trends in the offering span open-toe and low-cut booties—like the current street style fave, Chelsea boot—to a Western revival, a strong chunky-soled ’90s-inspired statement, an androgynous dressing movement, a ’70s-era nod to suede and block heels, and tapping into the sports-inspired athleisure apparel craze. (Think boots that pair well with yoga pants.)

Whatever the trend, wholesalers, retailers and trend analysts predict boots that combine fashion and function will play big next fall. Versatility is the buzzword of the season, where styles can go from day to night, wet to dry, warm to cold, office to weekend, etc. Carrie Hill, senior designer and developer for Wolverine, says millennial-age consumers, in particular, seek more bang for their buck and help fuel the fashion-with-function boot movement.

“They are looking for a versatile product that is functional and fits their sense of style,” she says. It equates to waterproof membranes, sneaker-like comfort technologies and streamlined silhouettes. And while many industry members await the next runaway boot trend to bank on, in the meantime variety looks to be how next season’s boot market will play out. With plenty of trends to choose from, it’ll take a sharp eye and really knowing your target customer to merchandise your mix successfully.

So here’s the low down—literally.

After several seasons of knee-high riding boots and tall Victorian-inspired lace-ups, as well as a brief run of over-the-knee looks (best suitable for those blessed with long limbs), short boots have moved to the front of the line. “We are seeing a shift in how women are wearing their boots,” notes Sally Murphy, manager of women’s product design at Cobb Hill, a division of New Balance.

Women, she says, are seeking fashion versatility, and short boots pair well with a range of outfits. “The lifetime of an ankle boot is much longer and extends to the interim seasons,” she notes. “Cropped and tight ankle jeans 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

are also a lot easier to wear with short boots. Both fashion and the weather are pushing for the ankle boot.”

Amber Vanwy, director of marketing at Rocky Brands and makers of Durango, notes the year-round appeal of boots is contributing to the growing popularity of lower-shaft looks. “Women wearing boots all year round lends itself to short looks,” she says. Vanwy also cites the popularity of skinny, cropped jeans and leggings as driving the trend. She adds that it’s an exciting time to be in the boot business because the broader receptiveness to more styles (and brands), as well as a 12-month season, means plenty more opportunities to sell merchandise. “We like that consumers are wearing them longer,” she confirms.

Kate Smith, senior fashion and retail analyst at Editd, reports that the number of women’s ankle boots on display at retail shot up significantly from a year ago. If the recent rounds at the FFANY show in New York were any indication, next fall looks to continue on the trend, be it western chic styles, block heels or biker-inspired buckles. Sasha Sarokin, buying manager for Net-A-Porter, predicts, in particular, that ’70s-era themes will be popular next season. “Block heels, suede, earthy browns and patchwork remain key,” she says. Debra Bloom, buying director for Dune London, also references the ’70s-inspired catwalk collections as a main source of inspiration for its collection. “It’s clean and sleek takes on platforms,” she offers, adding other popular looks from that era span block heel ankle boots to Englishinspired Chelsea styles. “We’re placing our bets on the western ankle boot, re-interpreted in a sexy, sleek and sophisticated way,” she adds.

Orietta Pelizzari, fashion and lifestyle trend analyst for Mattori Studio, expects the western trend, which has been percolating since Chanel’s 2014 pre-fall Dallas-inspired collection, to be important for next fall. “It’s the evolution of cowgirl chic,” she says, adding, “We’re seeing more fitted and sexy western styles.” Think narrow toe boxes and wood stacked heels that update classic western shapes, lending them a more modern feel.

Vanwy agrees that the cowgirl look is trending strong among fashion designers. “Some give a nod to old school cowboy designs while others lean toward new looks with feathers and fringe,” she notes. Along >65

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A Life’s Work Now at the helm of the family business, Anthony Diks, CEO of Wolky, discusses how the Euro comfort brand is skewing younger and aiming to be a year-round resource.

T’S ALWAYS A pleasure to interview a genuine shoe lover, and I’m not referring to the Carrie Bradshaw type that goes gaga over designer shoes only. Nor does it apply to the exec fixated on maximizing quarterly profits but who doesn’t really know shoes from shinola. The type of shoe lover I’m referring to deeply loves the art of shoemaking, from the last outward. Someone who knows every stitch of the design and manufacturing process and is enamored by it all. Someone who admits to getting a buzz from the tannins released by the rich leathers. Who knows that two millimeters can make the difference between a perfect fit and one that must be altered to fit perfectly. Who believes comfort and fashion don’t have to be an either-or proposition.

Someone who wants to make the shoe business his life’s work. Someone who lives and breathes this business every day.

That someone is Anthony Diks, CEO of Wolky.

“I really love shoes,” Diks says. “We are building a product using a variety of natural materials that can react differently when combined. You get surprises in the process sometimes, and it requires genuine skills to work with this product. I love the whole aspect.” If a shirt’s sleeves are a few millimeters off, no one notices it, Diks says. But “shoe design is so much more specific, especially in the comfort segment.” And while making shoes is more difficult than making a shirt, Diks embraces the challenge. “Something that is harder to make can be more interesting than what is easy to make,” he offers.

“Shoemaking is not something everybody can just do. Our factory workers are very talented, and I just find it to be a very interesting profession.”

Diks likes to say he was “born in a shoebox.” It’s fitting imagery, given that his grandfather was a shoe retailer and his father, Kees, ran a chain of shoe 14 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

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O&A stores with his brother, Jan, in the Netherlands. That led to the launch of Wolky in 1982 after one of their key wholesale accounts abruptly went out of business. Diks, who worked summers and holidays during his teen years at the stores and in the warehouse, never debated about choosing a career.

In fact, legend has it that when he was a young child one of his elementary school teachers diagnosed him as having a “shoe condition.” The obsession grew and Diks later enrolled in England’s International School of Footwear at Leicester College. “It’s the only school in the world that gives this particular education,” he says. “Everything is related to footwear design and the shoe business, and I loved it.” After graduating, Diks worked for two shoe companies, Mexx and Yellow Cab, for a couple of years in the Netherlands before joining his father at Wolky.

The year Diks came aboard as product director was 1998 and, by that point, Wolky had become established in Europe Any New Year’s resolutions? I and had been making inroads in the U.S. never make them. For me it’s just Indeed, the brand had come a long way another day, and if I wanted to, from its debut in the early ’80s as a soft hypothetically, stop smoking, I footbed concept intended to compliment shouldn’t wait for that particular the chain’s (firm footbed) Birkenstock day. I should stop immediately. business. The debut sandal featured a leather-lined memory foam footbed that What are you reading? On the was anatomically shaped and designed plane, it’s usually thrillers. Right to evenly distribute the body’s weight. now, it’s The Pilgrim (by Hugh It achieved its main goal of “immediNissenson). ate slip-on comfort.” The sandal sold well, despite its aesthetic shortcomings.

What is inspiring you? It’s not “They were affectionately called Jesus one particular thing, rather the sandals,” Diks laughs. “They didn’t look overall quickness of the world in so pretty.” Then, in 1984, the brand had communication and the possibilities its breakthrough moment: Diks’ father this brings to Wolky. partnered with renowned Dutch footwear designer, Charles Bergmans, on a What is your motto? I don’t have sandal collection. It upped the brand’s a definitive one, but I’ll go with, style ante immediately and sales took off.

“When you don’t love a day, you “They were a little more narrow, a little don’t live a day.” more feminine and came in all sorts of colors,” Diks recalls. “They were not so What sound do you love? Pop ugly anymore.” In fact, two designs from music, particularly from the ’80s, those early collections are still in the which were my teenage years. line today. The Nimes sandal, in parEspecially Michael Jackson. ticular, remains a bestseller.

After a couple years, Diks took over Who would be your most coveted management of Wolky’s European and dinner guest? Johan Cruyff, who Far East markets, while his father concentrated on the U.S. He quickly began skewing the brand younger in terms of its target consumer, styling and marketing. Over the past 15 years he has positioned Wolky as an established everyday lifestyle comfort brand. Now that his father has decided to slow down a bit beginning this year, Diks will oversee the entire business and is embarking on a similar strategy stateside.

“It’s a fresh opportunity to make the brand younger and expand into more of a year-round business,” he explains. Diks notes that the change won’t involve any abrupt shifts so as not to alienate its retail partners or customers. For the most part, it will be business as usual out of the Phoenix office/warehouse (managed by Rozanne Young since 2000) while Diks focuses on line build-

ing in order to introduce a broader, younger array of styling with a particular emphasis on expanding its fall offering. A huge asset in this endeavor, he notes, is the state-of-the-art factory Wolky owns in Mexico. The factory (opened in 2002) enables Wolky to stay at the front of the line, so to speak, when it comes to product design and development. “We can make whatever we want, whenever we want,” Diks says. It also enables the company to run an extensive open-stock program and, a bonus, the lead times are incredibly short.

Diks knows he has his work cut out for him. Expanding in the American market is no easy task. It’s huge, diverse and the retail game is quite different than in Europe. Nevertheless, he’s embracing the challenge. “I’ve been doing the job in Europe for the past 15 years,” he says. “It’s the right time for me and for Wolky.” Diks adds the goal is to build long-lasting relationships with its retail partners. It’s an effort that includes product, in-stock programs and was one of the biggest soccer players not selling direct to consumers. “We in the world back in the ’70s and are not a retailer,” he says of the latter. ’80s. He’s a famous Dutchman— “Our business is making and delivering more people know of him than shoes to our retailers for them to sell.” our queen. He is very down to Diks believes selling direct to consumearth, involved in a lot of charity ers online would provide a short-term work and uses his good name to gain at the expense of retailers, and the benefit of a lot of people. He that’s not a long-term survival stratmakes me feel proud to be Dutch. egy. “Our shoes are best sold in stores where the staff can explain our quality If God put you in charge, what and comfort aspects and the difference would be your first decree? A they make for wearers—why, for examworld without religion. ple, a leather-lined, removable footbed is better than a cork inlay,” he says. “So Gee, I thought you’d say a World why would we slowly kill them through Cup victory for the Netherlands. our own Internet sales?”

We have been close three times Wolky’s business philosophy is [laughs]. But religion—and it steeped in long-term vision. Being famdoesn’t matter which kind—is ily-owned is a key component of that usually the root of most conflicts. approach. “We are working to build Maybe if it didn’t exist, we wouldn’t the company for the long term—to be have those problems. in business 20, 30 and 40 years from now,” Diks says. “It’s not about selling What is your favorite hometown 500,000 pairs this year and it must memory? I grew up in a nice arbitrarily be 700,000 pairs the next. small town and had a wonderful It’s about growing at a rate that’s best time playing soccer almost every for the company and our partners.” For day with little to worry about. If I Diks, it’s one calculated step at a time could turn back time, I would be and, always, a labor of love.

8 or 9 again.

OFF THE CUFF

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

What is Wolky’s biggest challenge in the U.S. market right now?

This market presents a tremendous opportunity, but it all starts with our collection. Specifically, the challenge lies in our ability to become more of a yearround business in this market. We are well established in the spring season, but our biggest goal is to expand our fall business. That had also been the case in Europe 15 years ago, but now we are seen as a year-round brand in that region.

How receptive do you think retailers will be? There’s a tendency to box brands into certain segments—an issue even Ugg has had to deal with.

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beginning—all the way back to that first style, in fact. That’s how Wolky got its start, and we are still selling some of those original styles today. We need that to happen more in our fall collections that would then allow us to build off of that success. We need that item that blows out of stores in the cooler months. There’s plenty of work to be done in order to build up that segment of our business.

How was 2014 for Wolky, overall?

While there are always issues that influence growth, like the weather, I would say our business overall was quite stable. The good news is we experienced some increase in our fall sales—two items in particular sold well. That represents a starting point for us from which we can build out.

With plenty of comfort brands and Euro comfort brands, in particular, in this market, how do you plan to break through the clutter?

It’s true that everyone pretty much calls themselves a comfort brand these days. For Wolky, our comfort story begins with our removable memory foam footbed that adapts to the wearer’s feet. In contrast, many other footbeds are cork inlays. In addition, our products are all made of quality leather and are leather lined. That presents a big difference at the point of sale. Our materials, construction and comfort benefits are truly unique and beneficial.

And while we are a premium brand, we are not as expensive as some other Euro comfort brands. Our spring collection ranges from $120 to $190 retail and fall product spans $140 to $250 for tall boots made out of Portugal.

Is Wolky comfort, wellness, walking…All of the above?

At the end of the day, Wolky is a fashion comfort brand. We always start with the comfort aspects. In fact, our motto is: “It’s what’s inside that makes the difference.” Our materials and unique construction make a difference. We believe our products truly benefit our customers, who range from people with extreme foot ailments to those who appreciate and love comfort without looking like they are wearing “comfort” shoes. To that end, we believe most consumers make choices based on looks and not comfort.

That’s why we want Wolky to be a lifestyle choice that also happens to be for the good for your feet.

In addition to making a quality product, what are other Wolky attributes that might be attractive to retailers?

For starters, our huge in-stock program. The fill-in possibilities with Wolky are enormous. Almost 60 percent of what’s in the line during a season is stocked in our warehouse in Phoenix. We can ship daily. Plus, since we we own a factory in Mexico, we can follow up on orders very quickly. If, for example, a pink sandal is selling well, we can order 500 pairs immediately and, two to three weeks later, it’ll be available at retail.

Out of China that’d be two or three months.

Exactly. Even if we made it in Portugal, it would take longer and it would cost a lot to air freight it to our warehouse. From Mexico, it’s one day by truck. And, unlike the possibility with our factory partners in Portugal and the Far East, we will not be bumped from the front of the line. We also always knew that the open-stock capability was a much more important factor of doing business in the U.S. In Europe, we pre-sell 90 percent of our line and 10 percent is done through re-orders. Here, we pre-sell 35 percent and 65 percent is done through re-orders.

Um, which is easier?

Asking that question is answering it (laughs). But that’s why it’s important for us to stay focused and make shoes that we are sure of. We can’t stock 250 styles in a range of colors. That’d be crazy. Fortunately, most of our retailers here prefer items and don’t buy so much of a collection.

They want to maximize the sales in every way on those items, be it different materials, colors, combinations and so on and so on. But that’s good because it enables us to make a commitment with greater confidence on our in-stock inventory.

The flip side to this buying approach is a reluctance to introduce new styles.

Yes. Like everything in life, there’s a good and a bad side. It makes it more difficult to introduce new product. That’s why a lot of stores are locked into same styles with little change. We believe it’s important to introduce new styles, but our approach is that they not be too high risk.

Has the Birkenstock-led comfort sandal trend of the past year benefitted Wolky?

When a comfort sandal brand is in fashion it can attract people to buy other comfort sandal brands. So it’s nice, but it doesn’t really have much of an impact on our sales. We do not look to our competitors for help in growing our business. We are focused on our own lines, building them with an American twist when necessary. Eighty percent of our collection is the same in all markets, but the balance is done specifically for the tastes of American consumers. That’s just common business sense. America is a different market altogether than Europe, and if you want to succeed here you must be flexible enough to adapt to that specific situation. Along those lines, it helps that we have been with all of our factories for 15 to 20 years. It ensures stability and quality. Moving around for $1 or $2 in savings can bring on more problems than savings. We have built solid relationships with our factory partners, and if we sell a lot of shoes, then they are able to make a lot of shoes.

That’s to the benefit of all of us.

Speaking of selling shoes, Wolky doesn’t sell direct to consumers. Why? It’s no secret that there’s a lot of pressure on independents of late, mainly due to the Internet. That’s why we give orders off our site back to our retailers who have the order in stock. We prefer to work together. If a consumer searches for our shoes online, that independent retailer will most likely never come up.

Only the big-name retailers and Wolky come up in that search. So this gives them a chance to get a sale. Also, we are not a retailer. We want and need them to sell Wolky. It’s better if we can learn to live together.

Many brands do not follow this approach. Why? Because they probably think they are earning more money. It’s a short-term opportunity, and maybe they don’t care beyond that. We believe, however, if we don’t work together, those businesses may not last. We want our shoes in good stores in the United States, and many of them happen to be independents. We want consumers to see our shoes in those stores and be serviced and fitted by experts. That’s why we are focused on the independent tier, because our shoes need selling advice from professionals.

Can the independent tier survive in this Internet-fueled landscape?

I think they can. But you cannot survive if you sit in your store and wait for customers to come in. Then you might as well forget it. The Internet is something that you can try and resist, but it can also provide opportunities. That’s why we give them the opportunity to sell through our website. To at least benefit from our web store. Along those lines, we carry a much broader range of product than a typical independent does and consumers today are much smarter—they already know when they walk into a store and see a sandal or shoe that they want that it’s available in additional colors because they’ve seen it online. So why not install a small iPad kiosk in the store that features links to all of your suppliers to check immediately to see if a certain style or color is in stock? You’ve already fit the customer and now you can give them the choice of an in-store pick-up or delivery right to their home. More importantly, you don’t lose that sale. While this is not an every customer scenario, it’s probably five of 10 customers that will walk out of your store because you didn’t have exactly what they wanted in stock. Why not, for a minimal investment, potentially turn them into sales?

It sounds like common sense and seems easy enough.

If you don’t do anything to try and accommodate that customer, then you’re going to lose that sale. There’s no point in throwing up your hands and always complaining about the Internet. Sure it can be a real pain, but it also pro- >67

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Made in the Suede

Lavishly appointed plush suedes add a ’70s vibe to a broad range of silhouettes.

1. Minnetonka 2. Geox 3. Toni Pons 4. Sbicca Vintage 5. Cat Footwear 6. Nine West 7. Seychelles

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Sharper Image Pointed toes transform sleek styles from conventional to architectural.

1. Coconuts by Matisse 2. Klub Nico 3. Very Volatile 4. Restricted

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Great Outdoors

Novel quilting and clever stitching give traditional hikers some street cred.

1. Earthies 2. Keds 3. Taos 4. Volcom

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

Release the rebel in you!

Follow us: www.facebook.com/pages/Wolky-USA/256180524531383 The new Wolky App for iPad and iPhone will be available on February 1 at the iTunes Store!

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Sport Authority A sneaker-boot fusion yields a fresh new shape. (Yoga pants not included.)

1. Pikolinos 2. Keds 3. Sperry Top-Sider

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Navy Reserve

Forget black and beige, the new neutral is this rich blue hue.

1. Volcom 2. Chooka 3. Nosox 4. Rockport 5. Ahnu 6. Toni Pons 2015 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 27

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Country Stars Intricate details and pops of color refresh the West.

1. Tony Lama 2. Durango 3. Naot 4. Justin Boots 5. Taos 6. Wolverine 7. Muck Boots 28 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

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Got Sole?

Thick lug bottoms elevate classic silhouettes to the next level of cool.

1. Sorel 2. Cat Footwear 3. Palladium 4. All Black 5. Vogue 6. Coolway 7. Melissa

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Wine Selection

Call it burgundy or Bordeaux, this is one smooth hue.

1. Dune London 2. Cobb Hill 3. Hush Puppies 4. Cycleur de Luxe

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Shear Luck

Shearling linings give lace-ups a cozy second skin.

1. Birkenstock 2. Rockport 3. Coolway 4. Emu

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Beatlemania

Rubber, suede and leather modernize a mod staple.

1. Tsubo 2. Geox 3. BC Footwear 4. Blundstone 5. Chooka 6. Sperry Top-Sider

34 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

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Ready for Anything Outdoor brands unleash an avalanche of designs chock-full of performance and style versatility as consumers increasingly embrace a go-anywhere aesthetic.

By Lyndsay McGregor

ORE AMERICANS ARE donning outdoor and athletic wear, whether they actually plan to take a hike, break a sweat or not. Looking the part is enough for some and, for many others, donning the spur-of-the-moment versatility that such techy footwear and apparel offers fits their active lifestyle. The key design aspect is crossover appeal. One no longer looks like he or she is heading on a backcountry expedition. Rather, today’s latest styles are all-purpose and can tackle any trail but look just as stylish on a pub crawl.

To wit: Sales of activewear, which includes athletic, sport and exercise apparel, climbed 7 percent to $34 billion in the year ended this past July, according to the NPD Group.

And it’s not just stretchy yoga pants that are flying off the shelves as the tracking agency reports that for the 14-week period ended Sept. 20, sales of athletic and outdoor footwear were up 5 percent to $3 billion versus the same period in 2013. Matt Powell, NPD’s sports industry analyst, says the Lululemon-led movement is fueled by consumers ranging in age from 15 to 50 who demand everyday comfort and functionality from their wardrobes.

“The consumer is looking for more versatile products that can cross over and do many different things, and that’s had an impact on sales,” he says.

36 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

Surf staple SANUK is looking further inland for Fall ‘15 with its outdoor-inspired Cavalier collection for men.

BOGS has added a shockabsorbing Rebound footbed to all of its new styles for fall.

Made with rubber and micro-glass filaments, JAMBU’S Hyper Grip outsoles provide traction.

TAOS combines classic uppers and hiker-influenced bottoms with arch and metatarsal support.

Carl Blakeslee, creative director of Portland Product Werks, licensee for Woolrich Footwear, notes how he often sees city dwellers wearing Sorel boots for sartorial reasons, whether the weather is inclement or not. “Those boots are designed for extreme Arctic conditions and I’ve seen people wearing them on the streets of Portland and New York,” he says, adding, “there’s an appetite right now for the outdoor aesthetic.” It’s a hunger that Sorel is eagerly catering to. “We have continued to evolve our boots to accommodate the activities of our consumers, whether traveling through a city or heading outdoors for the afternoon. We want our boots to be a part of their wardrobe for the entire day,” says Erin Sander, global product director. To that end, the Columbiaowned subsidiary has added its patented OutDry technology membrane (a breathable, waterproof construction) to several boots in its casual men’s Paxson collection, as well as incorporated felt liners and wool insulation in its women’s winter styles.

This lean towards a more go-anywhere outdoor look hasn’t escaped the eye of casual lifestyle companies either. Taos Footwear is combining classic uppers with hiker-influenced bottoms for Fall ’15, replete with the brand’s contour footbed with arch and metatarsal support because, as President Glen Barad says, “Consumers are demanding support and comfort in all categories of footwear today.”

Steve Lax, president of Yaleet, distributor of Naot and Dafna, believes many consumers are taking style cues from outdoor types like Jennifer Lawrence’s character, Katniss Everdeen, the heroine of The Hunger Games franchise. In fact, Dafna’s canvas Scout boot (worn in real life by the Israeli army) is featured in Mockingjay, Part 1. Lax reveals pre-orders for the style, which hits stores next month, have shot through the roof. He’s confident the demand will continue into next fall—when the sequel hits theaters—but also because of its general design aesthetic and comfort. “It’s a retro, military look and we’ve added an anatomical insole to it so it’s much more comfortable than these boots typically are,” he says.

Blakeslee seconds The Hunger Games influence, which was confirmed to him during a recent shopping trip at The performance with style movement shows little signs a Cabela’s location. “The amount of women’s specific of slowing down. Analysts at Barclays estimate the U.S. camouflage product and bows on the shelves screams athletic market sales will increase by nearly 50 percent to Katniss,” he laughs. “But I don’t think this is a flash in more than $100 billion at retail by 2020. Even Beyoncé Worn by the Israeli army, as well as Jennifer Lawrence (above) in The Hunger the pan. I think it’s a movement.” is getting in on the game, teaming up with Topshop Games: Mockingjay Part 1, DAFNA has added It’s not just a women’s movement, either. Ethan to launch a collection of “athletic streetwear” apparel an anatomical insole to its canvas Scout.

Anderson, global vice president of marketing for Sanuk, and footwear set to launch in Fall ’15. And early last a division of Deckers Brands, says that the surf staple year, hipster haven Urban Outfitters launched Without is looking further inland for Fall ’15 with its Cavalier Walls, in-store shops featuring its own line of apparel collection for men. “They are more outdoor-inspired,” he says. “We’re not and accessories targeting the outdoor and fitness markets that also includes touting them as the most rugged shoe in the world, but you can take them merchandise from Asics, Saucony, Patagonia and others. on the trails.”

Inside such retail formats you will not find heavy, clunky, stiff, brown or The same goes for Ecco, according to Product Director Felix Zahn. The olive hiking boots. Those days are long gone. In its place are lighter, stylish and brand is introducing the new Yura collection for men and women next fall. more versatile footwear suitable for all types of walks—or not. “Consumers are “We’ve taken a true outdoor approach with this low-cut shoe that’s built for the looking for something that’s transitional, and that they can wear year-round. terrain,” he explains, noting that features include a direct-injected outsole, a Footwear that can easily move them from work to play,” says Yetzalee Cubero, PU midsole for cushioning and a durable TPU toecap and mudguards. (Some director of marketing for Jambu, a division of Vida Group. The brand has styles feature Gore-Tex waterproof linings.) “The line between casual lifestyle focused its Fall ’15 collection on fusing fashionable uppers with such techniand outdoor lifestyle shoes is so thin right now,” Zahn offers. For example, the cal innovations as Hyper Grip outsoles (made with rubber and micro-glass consumer is demanding more color and Ecco’s new collection is available in filaments) and Flex Traction carbide spikes on some styles for increased blue, green and red for men and bright—but not neon—colors for women. traction on snow and ice.

“When brands like Valentino and Gucci start making running shoes, you know the category has become a fashion statement,” quips Kristina Owen, footwear commercial associate for Salomon, noting that the company has seen growth this year from “diverted use of fully functional outdoor footwear Just because brands are upping their fashion ante doesn’t mean consumers products.” As such, Salomon is launching a collection of men’s hikers for fall will settle for anything less than legitimate technologies. Even if they never dubbed Evasion, the counterpart to the brand’s popular Ellipse collection use the products for their intended purposes, they want the comfort knowing of athletic-inspired, lightweight hikers for women. “With the popularity of they can. “There seems to be an authenticity gauge that consumers are wise photo sharing, style is increasingly important to the consumer, but only if to,” notes Blakeslee. Translation: They can spot a poseur brand easily. “Brands functionality remains uncompromised,” she says. that are more rooted in the authentic outdoor lifestyle are really the ones that Matt Priest, president of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA), says in today’s society comfort is king and much of that is delivered through wearable technologies. “Consumers may not necessarily be hiking on trails or jogging 10 miles a day, but they want to go about their daily lives wearing comfortable and innovative product,” he says. “They are moving away from cookie-cutter offerings.”

Product versatility is also a sound investment. Greg Stevenson, owner of The Hike House in Sedona, AZ, says shoes with crossover appeal often sell better in the store. “A customer investing $130 wants the shoes to be wearable more than on a hike, especially if they are doing that activity only twice a year,” he says. Stevenson cites the long-running success of Inov-8’s Roclite trail shoe as an example. “It’s phenomenal on the trail but I would say 50 percent or more of our customers probably never even saw the trail.” Similarly, Mark McKnight, e-commerce and marketing manager for Rock/Creek Outfitters based in Chattanooga, TN, reports that the chain expanded its selection of “edgier styles that are not core outdoor products” this past year to meet the growing demand. “I think our customer base is getting wider,” he says. “We’ve got young and old as well as people with very little money and the very wealthy.”

What they have in common, he says, is a passion for the outdoors and the lifestyle aesthetic.

Kurt Geller, senior merchandise manager for Timberland, says today’s consumer wants to be ready for anything at a moment’s notice. “The products that provide that value will be of choice,” he notes, adding it represents a seismic shift to how the entire outdoor market is approached. “Over the last 10 years the outdoor industry—across all categories—has seen a shift towards more versatile products that suit our ‘everyday outdoor’ lifestyles as compared with where the outdoor industry started, which was very specific expeditionoriented products,” he says.

BIG BUSINESS

THE REAL DEAL

2015 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 37

“Consumers seek functionality without having to compromise on aesthetics.”

–jacqueline van dine, co-founder, ahnu have the most potential to grow in this climate,” he says.

Todd Lewis, global product director of footwear for Columbia, says consumers armed with smartphones while shopping do the necessary detective work on the spot as to whether a brand is authentic or not. “They expect innovation and versatility,” he notes. “It’s not something that’s an extra anymore.” For Columbia that translates to combining its proprietary Vent construction technology with its patented OutDry to offer 360 degrees of ventilation for breathable temperature regulation in several styles like the Ventrailia OutDry and Ventfreak Mid OutDry. Elsewhere, its Minx collection for women has expanded, which Lewis describes as “jackets for her feet,” featuring Omni-Heat and Omni-Grip technologies. “They are products she wants to wear versus has to wear when the weather turns bad,” he claims. “People love the technology, but they also have to fall in love with the piece. It has to look great.”

Kamik has taken a similar hybrid approach this fall, incorporating Polartec’s Alpha (a lightweight, breathable insulation) and NeoShell (a waterproof, flexible membrane) technologies in winter boots for women. “All of the bulkiness that you would typically find in outdoor footwear products is gone,” reports Annie St-Denis, product manager. “It’s functional, performance product built up on more sleek, feminine lasts that conform to the foot.”

Fashion on top of function is a key element of most footwear categories today, notes Jacqueline Van Dine, co-founder of Ahnu, a division of Deckers Brands.

“Consumers seek functionality without having to compromise on aesthetics and trends,” she says. Along those lines, Ahnu will expand its selection of insulated boots (bolstered with 200 grams of Thinsulate) for women this fall, adding faux shearling lining and textured suede and leathers to play up the fashion angle.

It’s all about bridging that gap between performance and lifestyle, says Bryan Owen, brand manager for Astral, whose Aquanaut multi-sport shoe looks like a skate sneaker but features a fine mesh that drains water and filters silt and debris and a sticky G15 rubber for scrambling on wet rocks. “Consumers still want a shoe that performs well on the trail outside but they also want a shoe that’s extremely wearable on a lifestyle level,” he says. For Bogs that translates into adding its Rebound shock-absorbing cushioned footbed in all new styles for fall. It includes the Sidney, a women’s waterproof lace-up boot with trendy tartan accents and the Johnny, a men’s waterproof leather lace-up ankle boot on a lug sole. Kelly Santos, vice president of product, says consumers today expect their shoes to fill multiple purposes, be it the “hardcore gearhead who lives in the mountains or an urbanite who loves the outdoor look.”

Timberland describes its approach to this design premise as “quietly expressed,” according to Geller. “We don’t want our consumers to have to sacrifice being warm, dry or comfortable for looking stylish and appropriate from morning ‘til night,” he notes, citing its Schazzberg collection for men as an example.

The shoes feature a Vibram rubber outsole, 400 grams of PrimaLoft insulation and moisture-venting Climapath lining, as well as a Pendleton wool collar lining that Geller describes as a nod to both form and function. Likewise, Vasque is introducing an athletic version of its popular Talus hiking boot for Fall ’15: the Talus Trek. Instead of a PU midsole, the Talus Trek will feature a lighter, sportier EVA midsole. “It’s still a hiking boot—we’re still using a leather base—but color pops lend a more youthful feel,” says Brian Hall, director of product development.

Taking a similar aesthetic cue is Hoka One One, maker of maximal running shoes, which will debut its MTN collection of trail running and trekking product that feature oversized midsoles the brand has become known for. “I hope it changes the mindset of both retailers and consumers who have somehow clung to the mindset that a hiking shoe needs to be stiff,” says President Jim Van Dine. “I’ve worked with numerous well-known footwear biomechanics and none of them subscribe to this outdated theory of a stiff hiking shoe.” • 38 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

KAMIK enlists Polartec’s Alpha and NeoShell technologies to provide waterproof, breathable insulation.

Faux shearling and 200 grams of Thinsulate combine fashion and function for AHNU.

COLUMBIA’S Minx collection features Omni-Heat and Omni-Grip technologies.

VASQUE introduces Talus Trek, an athletic version of its popular Talus hiker, featuring a lightweight EVA midsole.

SALOMON’S Contagrip outsoles offer optimal traction on varied surfaces.

W H AT ’S S E L L I N G

Outdoor Specialty

ROCK/CREEK OUTFITTERS

H

CHAT TANOOGA , TN

IGH SCHOOL DREAMS don’ t usually come true but for Dawson Wheeler and Marvin Webb, the fantasies of working in the outdoor industry discussed on the quad during their boarding school years came to fruition in Rock/Creek Outfitters. The year was 1987 when the owners of Chattanooga’s Canoeist Headquarters outdoor specialty store approached Wheeler. They were looking to get out of the business and Wheeler, active in the local outdoor community, was presented with an offer he couldn’t refuse: to buy the store. About a month later, Webb joined his friend as partner. Nearly 30 years later, the duo operates five locations in the Chattanooga area as well as a booming website, rockcreek.com, that enable its loyal customers to enjoy an array of outdoor sports and activities in comfort and safety.

As active in their community today as in 1987, Rock/Creek sponsors the StumpJump 50k, the Triple Crown Bouldering Competition Series and is taking over as title sponsor for the 3 State 3 Mountain Challenge in cycling. The chain also works with organizations to help create and preserve nearby trail systems, climbing areas and natural environments.

“It’s a natural step for us to try to preserve where we love to recreate,” says Mark McKnight, the chain’s e-commerce and marketing director. He adds that Rock/Creek continues to grow in a competitive marketplace primarily by embracing the outdoors with a passion equal to that of its customers. —Lauren Fusilier How was business overall in 2014, and footwear sales in particular?

Overall, sales did really well. We made a lot of strategic investments and worked hard to raise our expectations of what we want to get out of what we’re doing. The web is a big focus for us. It’s about half of our business, and we improved our site to move faster. Footwear has been a bright spot that’s grown quite a bit and is now our highest selling spot in the stores. It’s to the point now that it might be worth it for the segment to take over some of the apparel space, actually.

Did the holidays meet expectations? They exceeded expectations. The cold snap in late November was huge for us and we had a really big Black Friday and a big Cyber Monday. Sales overall tipped a bit in favor of the web over brick-and-mortar. I would not want to be in a position to just have brickand-mortar today. I like the way we’ve set up our business.

What are some of your best selling brands and styles? Sorel has been really big for us lately, especially their casual styles. And their more fashionforward styles, like their Medina II boot, don’t really sell in our stores because Chattanooga is pretty laid back, but if a big vendor in another city runs out of them, we’ll sell out all of them in a day online. Also, Chaco is huge for us.

Chattanooga is one of their top markets, and for many years we’ve been one of their top accounts nationwide.

What is your fastest growing footwear segment? The movement to Hokas

is almost its own segment and that’s been on fire. Also, our climbing shoe sales have continued to grow, probably because there’s a new climbing gym in town and lots of people—young and old—are getting into the sport for the first time.

What are some of your best-selling accessories? Goodhew socks have been crazy for us. Part of it’s due to the fact that they are locally based. But Smartwool and Sockwell have also been killing it.

What is the best way to reach your target audience? We do really well with e-mails that are targeted to specific customers. We try to follow up often and show our expertise. We also try to be useful. We post articles, such as how to select the best Marmot sleeping bag, how to clean your Chacos (with an embedded video) and which Patagonia fleece to choose.

The good news is…Our specialty brands are becoming mainstream so people are wearing them outside of sport. We keep learning what customers want and I feel like if you solicit feedback from them, you can do well in this market.

Customers are there and willing to reward your effort.

The bad news is…That vendors have figured the same thing out. It feels like we’re transitioning from a very partner-driven relationship with vendors to suddenly asking ourselves, how much information do you want to give them because they can use this to better compete against us. They have the margin to do things we just can’t do and it can make our business more difficult.

What is the biggest challenge facing your business? Margin erosion. Whether it’s increased shipping costs, competition from vendors or everything we do becoming more expensive to do.

2015 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 39

IN FOCUS

THE THEORY OF EVOLUTION With the recent acquisitions of OnlineShoes.com and Shoes.com, Roger Hardy, CEO of SHOEme, aims for $1 billion in annual sales by 2020.

BY LAUREN FUSILIER

CHANGE IS A fact of life if a company wants to stay relevant and survive in today’s highly competitive marketplace. It requires a willingness to adapt, evolve, shift gears, think outside the box, retool, re-imagine, regroup, contract (sometimes) and (often) expand. It’s all essential to any company’s longevity, and that is something that Roger Hardy, chairman and CEO of Hardy Capital Partners, knows as well as anybody. He first made his mark in the online retail arena as founder of Coastal Contacts in 2000, which went on to become a leading manufacturer and e-tailer of eyewear products in his native Canada. After selling that business early last year (to the tune of $430 40 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

million to Essilor International), he created Hardy Capital Corporation and recognized that Canada was the only advanced economy without a mature online shoe retailer. Thus he launched SHOEme.ca and, within a year, the site had 180 brands in its offering and became one of the country’s fastest growing e-commerce companies. But Hardy has sights on being a much bigger player in the online shoe retail tier and has shown little inclination to take the organic growth approach. Last July, he zeroed in on acquiring OnlineShoes.com. It boosted the somewhat narrow selection of brands being offered in Canada immediately. And, just last month, he expanded the portfolio further with the acquisition of Shoes.com, formerly a division of Brown Shoe.

“We’re always looking for ways to provide our customers with a better online footwear buying experience,” Hardy states, noting that the sites fall under the umbrella of SHOEme. Combined, the group now offers approximately 480 brands. The two acquisitions, in particualr, possess a roster of leading comfort and athletic brands. Hardy adds that their loyal customer followings and experienced teams also made them attractive purchases. “The basis of the transaction is to get synergy on resources,” he explains. “We’ll share technologies and each site will have a local team, but Seattle (OnlineShoes’ base) will house a team that gives a base level to both that site and SHOEme. ca (based in Vacouver).” The Shoes.com site will operate as-is out of St. Louis for the time being. Any successful new innovations, he adds, will quickly be incorporated onto the other sites. Beyond those initiatives, the focus is on growing the businesses with the collective goal of $1 billion in annual sales by 2020. “That requires 30 percent annual growth,” Hardy declares. While lofty, he believes it’s within reach, so long as the company sticks to the basics: offering top-notch customer service via state-of-the-art sites that showcase a great selection of brands.

It’s something OnlineShoes has been doing ever since it grew out of a chain of Seattle-based Shoe Advantage stores in 1996. Considered by many to be the “first online shoe retailer,” the company launched its e-commerce site back when dial-up was the name of the Internet game and most manufacturers were doing business via fax machines and consumers actually went inside brick-and-mortar stores (a retail catchphrase that didn’t really exist back then) to do their shopping. Whether Founder Dan Gerler foresaw the epic retail revolution that would change the entire way the world shops for pretty much anything and everything is not certain, but he does get credit for his pioneer-like vision to transform his traditional retail format into what has since become a leading and profitable online shoe business. OnlineShoes debuted with no more than 10 vendors and now has in the ballpark of 300 brands in its mix. Not bad when you cosider the prevailing industry wisdom back then was few consumers would ever want to buy shoes without trying them on first. Boy, was that off-the-cuff assessment off the mark.

OnlineShoes, which Hardy reports has experienced strong growth this fall, has a strong niche in the comfort and athletic markets. Unlike many other

boots offering multi-season versatility. Available in various e-tailers that dabble in a little bit of every category, the site heights that sport button details and unique prints—such has remained focused on those segments and has developed as metallic snake-embossed or leopard—Hardy says Pika a strong heritage and loyal following as a result. Shoes.com offers customers high value at competitive price points, has a similar loyal following and features a Who’s Who of which spans $110 up to $250 for mukluk boot offerings leading brands, spanning dressier fashion, including Anne that feature suede, fur, beaded accents and furry pom-poms Klein, Steve Madden and Michael by Michael Kors, to comfor tribal-inspired flair. Regarding the latter, he predicts fort staples such as Ugg, Dansko and Born. “We won’t sell mukluk boots to be the next step in shearling boots fashion anything that isn’t quality,” Hardy says. “And our customers and points to their recent appearance on celebrities like will get it shipped to them quickly.”

Beyoncé and Paris Hilton as the beginning of the trend.

Speed is key, according to Hardy. He likens working in the Hardy adds that Pika is the first in a series of exclusive online business to running a sprint that requires the abilbrands to be introduced on SHOEme’s sites. “With approxiity to offer unique products, provide exceptional customer mately five to six million customers, the time is now to service and generate customer loyalty—all done as quickly, A mukluk boot from SHOEme’s introduce exclusive brands that inspire and retain them,” efficiently and error-free as possible. That requires a strong new exclusive Pika brand. he says. The exclusivity, Hardy notes, helps prevent price team, which Hardy believes is already well in place. “We wars that are common among Internet dealers offering benchmark ourselves against the very best out there and that’s the same or similar goods. “Offering unique and different products means what drives us,” he says, citing that many team members from OnlineShoes we won’t have to worry about those issues,” he asserts. “We’re looking to get have come from Nordstrom and really understand the importance of service. out in front of things.”

And Shoes.com employees, having been a part of Brown Shoe and its Famous The same proactive attitude applies to the “clicks to bricks” movement.

Footwear division, posses a similar retail service background.

Hardy points to the omnichannel trend, stating that the company will remain Hardy reports that big plans are in the pipeline to upgrade the sites’ techan innovator in this sector, as well. “We’ve seen the benefit of stores that nologies and services even further. In January, the look and feel of the sites will compliment online segments,” he says, “and that’s something we have in our be upgraded, including new features that, he says, haven’t been seen before in plan for the future. In 2015, we will have our first stores in place.” the category. For example, using data analysis and machine intelligence, past With plans that span new-age technologies to old-school brick-and-mortar transactions will allow SHOEme to tailor a collection that is unique to each stores, Hardy and his team have plenty on their plate. And while it might be shopper. Data will also inform the sizing of offerings presented to shoppers to overwhelming at times, Hardy says adhering to SHOEme’s premise—providing guarantee a collection that fits them. Eventually, Hardy hopes to incorporate excellent customer service—keeps him and the company focused. Do that and the data to dictate a style filter component. the rest falls into place. “Today, you have to be in all places, serving customers Also on tap this year is SHOEme’s entrance into the private label business how they want to be served that day,” Hardy maintains. • with the launch of Pika. The brand consists of an array of comfort shearling

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Chippewa

44 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

Hush Puppies

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

Naot

The Gentle Man Dapper details lend a sophisticated aesthetic to classic boot silhouettes.

2014 june • footwearplusmagazine.com 45

Vogue T-strap bootie, Zara blazer, tights by Adrienne Vittadini, stylist’s own shorts and collar.

46

48

DKNY blazer. Opposite: Clockwise from top right: Vionic side zip bootie, Cobb Hill short moto boot with buckle detail, All Black pointed toe Chelsea boot, fringe ankle boot by Hush Puppies.

49

Pointed toe boots

by Tamaris. Blazer and blouse by DKNY, trousers by Theory, vintage Moschino belt, hat

by H&M. Opposite: Rachel Zoe fringe top, tights by Adrienne Vittadini.

50

51

52

Aetrex textured leather boot.

Opposite: Coconuts by Matisse cut-out bootie with buckle details.

53

Spring Step snake embossed leather boot, Dune London suede boot with stacked heel.

Opposite: Equipment blouse.

54

Fashion Editor: Tara Anne Dalbow; stylist: Claudia Talamas; prop stylist: Cecilia Elguero/Kate Ryan; hair and makeup: Rita Madison; model: Madison M./Major Model Management.

55

EDITOR’S PICKS

Peep Show Open-toe booties show a little skin on mild fall days.

DESIGNER CHAT

SOLE MATES

MUTUAL RESPECT and admiration for one another’s taste and style is what brought Hsuan Pai and Harel Waldman together when the design duo’s paths crossed a few years ago at Chainson Footwear. Despite working in different departments, it wasn’t long before they started talking about developing a line together. “I’ve been involved with almost every aspect of the footwear industry, from managing the design and development of product lines to sourcing and sales,” says Pai, who studied fashion design at FIDM and has worked for the likes of Taryn Rose and Charles David. Waldman, meanwhile, moved to New York to design for Elie Tahari after years spent working in Europe as both a costume and menswear designer. A move to the West Coast caused him to switch gears and shift into shoes. “We both realized that we share the same passion and dreams,” Waldman says, so it made sense to come together and create Wal & Pai, their Los Angeles-made line that will launch its debut collection this spring.

The pair’s penchant for quality is perhaps what most informs their aesthetic. Waldman explains that their goal is to build a brand they believe in, that combines modern design with desirable comfort.

And it was paramount to produce it domestically.

Styles such as pointed-toe slides, slouchy ballerina slingbacks and ankle-tie sandals look at once modern yet timeless, familiar yet fashion forward. “I look at the past and think about the future to make a perfect hybrid of recognized aesthetics with modern interpretation,” Waldman explains. A neutral palette is another signature: The Spring ’15 collection is driven by chalky whites and nude hues, while manipulated leathers and mixed textures add some interest to the simple silhouettes.

Retailing from $385 to $545, Pai describes their target customer as having a very specific point of view. “It’s someone who is obsessed with quality

56 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

and modern design and wants to be different,” Waldman adds. Pai agrees: “What we’re really doing is designing more of the things that we like to see people wear and things that we remember as our favorites.” —Lyndsay McGregor

Klub Nico

What is your first shoe memory? Pai: I had these hand-me-down brown boots from my favorite cousin that I wore everywhere because I thought they were the coolest things. There are even photos of me when I was 4 years old wearing those boots with bright red stockings and a blue dress.

Easy Street

Is there a perfect shoe? Pai: There’s no perfect foot, therefore there is no perfect shoe.

Where do you like to shop? Waldman: Hidden vintage archives around the globe. Pai: I shop online a lot. Lately it’s been on totokaelo.com, lustcovetdesire. com and netaporter.com.

Which shoes in your closet are getting the most wear? Waldman: Sneakers. I’m obsessed with Raf Simons and the hybrid Bernhard Willhelm collaboration with Camper. Pai: My black Loeffler Randall pointed toe flats.

Summit White Moutain

Which trends do you hope to never see again?

Pai: None. I love watching the trends come back. It does make me feel old because I think everything is now recycled, but it’s fun to see how people reinterpret them. Waldman: Prom.

Which designers do you admire most? Pai: Martin Margiela and Helmut Lang. Waldman: Rei Kawakubo and Ann Demeulemeester.

What is your motto? Pai: You can always try harder.

Waldman: The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.

Very Volatile

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

a

Vogue

Hsuan Pai and Harel Waldman

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S H O W C A S E FAL L ’ 15

Fashion meets function in this easy-to-walk-in wedge sole and waterproof suede bootie with leather detailing, soft faux fur collar and inside zipper that screams city-chic. Visit Cougar

Part of the Patrizia collection by Spring

at FFANY and Platform.

Step, Delight offers a dose of modern

www.cougarboots.com

femininity with a hint of edge. This suede bootie features fold-down cuffs, an elegant zipper and a rubber heel that measures 2.75 inches. See it in person at The Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform and WINN.

Since its creation, Yaleet, distributor of Naot Footwear, has been guided by

www.springfootwear.com

two basic principles: We offer solutions and we promise trust. Our superbly crafted products demonstrate our response to the compelling need for healthy, comfortable and fashionable footwear. Come see us at Outdoor Retailer, The Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform and Sole Commerce.

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Cougar’s Fall/Winter ’15 collections feature fashion footwear that will go anywhere, anytime and in any weather. Guaranteed to be waterproof. Guaranteed to turn heads. Learn more at FFANY, Outdoor Retailer and FN Platform.

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Fall in love with the Philly collection from Durango! This vintage cowgirlinspired collection evokes Victorian grace while straps give just a hint of toughness. Come see the rest of Durango’s men’s, women’s and kids’ collections at FN Platform and The Atlanta Shoe Market.

www.durangoboots.com

The Flexus by Spring Step collection salutes

Kick back in the Skechers Sport Empire Rock Around. Bio-Dri lining and

Fall ’15 with Ranella, a fashionable, utility boot

a subtle snake print mesh upper keep feet cool and comfy, while a roomy

accented with faux fur lining and lace-up styl-

fit and air-cooled memory foam insole offer extra cushioning. Check out

ing that’s sure to make a bold statement on

Skechers Sport at FN Platform.

the streets all season long. Come visit us at The Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform and WINN.

www.springfootwear.com

www.skechers.com

walking. Leather-covered footbeds are carefully engineered using high-grade memory foam and natural contoured cork to create a custom cushion that absorbs shock. Known for a

Meet Emma and Eva, key styles in Easy Street’s new sport line which pairs sports shoe comfort features with such design accents as herringbone and gray flannel. Available in a large range of sizes and widths, come visit us at FN Platform and all regional shows.

www.easystreetshoes.com

wide variety of foot-friendly shoes, Wolky celebrates style and comfort with every step. Check us out at FN Platform and regional shows.

www.wolky.com

Carpeverde is a standout style from the

Every style in the Earthies collection is thoughtfully

Fall ’15 L’Artiste Collection by Spring

designed to deliver high style without compromis-

Step. The hand-painted leather boot

ing comfort. Cupped heels, graduated arch support

features radial sun patterns and two

and cradled footbeds are all part of the healthy promise. Check out the Fall ’15 collection at

contrast buckle straps with a matching

Outdoor Retailer, The Atlanta Shoe Market

leather inset rubber heel that measures

and FN Platform.

a wearable 2.25 inches and a squishy

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padded insole. See us at The Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform and WINN.

www.springfootwear.com

European women’s brand Tamaris introduces its quality, reasonable prices and smart technology to the American market for the first time. From the fashion-conscious high-flyer to the casual down-toearth type, the collection has something for everyone. Visit

Blossom Footwear has built a successful life-

us at FFANY, The Atlanta

style brand, De Blossom Collection, around

Shoe Market, FN Platform and

high fashion women’s styling. Inspired

regional shows.

by the glamour and sensuality of

www.tamaris.com

today’s hottest trends, the collection spans platforms and wedges to sandals, boots and more. Visit us at WSA@MAGIC.

www.blossomfootwear.com

S H O W C A S E FA LL ’1 5

Wolky shoes are made for

S H O W C A S E FAL L ’ 15

Sundance by Aetrex is made with genuine cork to create shoes that are lightweight, shock absorbing and ultra-comfortable. Featuring a Lynco-shaped cork

Handmade and designed in Tuscany, Italy, Bella Vita combines comfort and

midsole that supports your arch and helps keep your body aligned. Handcrafted

elegance for Fall ’15 in both Ronan, a fold-down plaid cuff and a flexible plat-

with natural leathers, detailed stitching and colorful, cozy knits, the collection

form outsole, and Dusti, a burnished ankle boot with an edgy back zipper.

presents a rich, earthy look and feel to bring out the individual in you. Visit

Both feature luxurious hand-finished leather and are available in a large range

us at Outdoor Retailer, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

of sizes and widths. Come visit us at FN Platform and all regional shows.

www.aetrex.com

www.bellavitashoes.com

Fashion, comfort and sustainability come together effortlessly as Joy & Mario introduces its innovative young footwear brand to the U.S. By comComfort and fashion come together in the Zone

bining a characteristic upper with a fresh sole and technologically advanced

boot, part of the Azura collection by Spring Step

materials, the brand is able to infuse a fashion shoe with unparalleled com-

for Fall ’15. Featuring a suede upper, a leather and

fort. Come see us at The Atlanta Shoe Market, FFANY and FN Platform.

chain collar tethered to the ankle of the boot and

www.joyandmario.com

a 1-inch rubber heel, this edgy, chic boot is luxury at its finest. See us at The Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform and WINN.

www.springfootwear.com

Alegria by PG Lite adds a playful pop to its Kylie boots by mixing leather and plaid. Combined with Alegria’s specially formulated footbed, there’s blissful comfort in every color. Check out the rest of the Fall ’15 collection at Outdoor Retailer, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

www.alegriashoes.com

60

Work or play, Nicole stands for sophistication, quality, comfort and effortless style. View our collection at FFANY, WWDMagic, The Atlanta Shoe Market, StyleMax and the Dallas Shoe Market.

www.consolidatedshoe.com

warm and fuzzy boot features a faux fur fold-down cuff and gold buckle Rialto’s Fall ’15 collection of contemporary fashion footwear incor-

details to bow a go-anywhere style that shoppers won’t want to take off.

porates comfort, value and attention to detail. The Popcorn boot

Visit Spring Step at The Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform and WINN.

perfectly encapsulates these aspects with its extra-cushioned insole

www.springfootwear.com

for all-day comfort, diamond quilted suede inlay and ornamental strap for an all-together sleek look. Come see us at FFANY, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

www.rialtoshoes.com

Game Kicks are the first interactive shoes from Skechers Kids. Colorful buttons light up and make sounds in a classic “match the pattern” game and an on-off button controls the sound and resets the game if needed. Experience more from the Skechers Kids collection at FN Platform.

www.skechers.com

The way we look at raindrops and puddles, the wetter the better! Fortunately, the selection of water-resistant products available from Western Chief Women will keep feet dry and happy. With a wide variety of whimsical, fashion-inspired rain boots, cold weather boots and slippers, we strive to create great products that are both functional and affordable.

Check us out at Outdoor Retailer, FFANY and FN Platform.

www.washingtonshoe.com

We love the trend of rugged style combined with a feminine touch. Introducing our Madison Boot, the bomber boot for 2015. With distressed suede and wool blend collar, match it with jeans, leggings, or even a sweater dress.

More than just comfort, BEARPAW is about versatility, style and individuality. Come see us Earth is a modern collection of dress and casual footwear grounded in the

at FFaNY, Outdoor Retailer, FN Platform and

ideals of promoting a healthy lifestyle while offering an expansive assort-

regional shows across America.

ment of trend-right styles that deliver remarkably against their value. Earth

www.bearpaw.com

believes that a commitment to wellness is no more complicated than slipping into the right pair of shoes. Visit the brand at Outdoor Retailer, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

www.earthfootwear.com

S H O W C A S E FA LL ’1 5

Spring Step calls the Popsicle its “It” boot of the season. New for fall, this

UPCLOSE DRESS

Aiming High Industry veteran Max Harrell takes over the reins of Summit White Mountain, an Italian-made women’s bridge brand.

FOR MAX HARRELL, the opportunity to become director of sales for Summit White Mountain, a division of White Mountain Footwear Group, is a dream job on many levels. For starters, the year old label shifted production from China to Italy this fall, which Harrell views as an incredible opportunity to re-introduce the art of Italian shoe craftsmanship to millions of American women who understand and appreciate quality and will snap up such goods priced in Summit’s accessible $100 to $200 retail range for shoes and $150 to $250 for boots. To clarify: That’s the price for Summit’s quality leather footwear (including linings) made entirely in Italy—there’s no outsourcing to eastern European countries for assembly. Indeed, the footwear industry’s sourcing landscape continues to change dramatically.

“I feel like it’s the perfect time to bring Italian footwear at an affordable price back to the American consumer who appreciates better-grade shoes manufactured by hand,” Harrell offers, noting that there’s a noticeable difference in look and feel when compared to similar products made elsewhere. “There’s just something special about shoes made in Italy, a craftsmanship as opposed to more of a production-line approach.” Harrell, who possesses four decades of industry experience, including executive positions at Esprit, Skechers, Rocket Dog (annual sales rose from $14 million to $40 million under his stewardship) and, most recently, at the helm of CC Corso Como (also makers of Ballasox and Ciao Bella), speaks from experience. He likens Summit’s manufacturing process to that of making a Lexus in a Ferrari factory as opposed to making it in a Hyundai one. “No one does it better,” he says. “That’s why the leading designers still manufacture in Italy.”

The added bonus for Summit is hitting a sweet spot on the floor, as there’s plenty more competition under the $100 price point, be it Steve Madden, Sam Edelman, Jessica Simpson, etc. But above that figure, Harrell explains, is a target consumer that may wear some designer labels like Prada and Céline and may even have a couple of Christian Louboutins in her closet, but she has to really think about making those levels of purchase. Enter Summit: “Once she sees it’s only $150, she might buy two or three pairs,” Harrell says, adding that in today’s competitive landscape every brand needs a distinct hook. “You have to find ways to set yourself apart,” he says. “Summit offers great quality, beautiful product, terrific styling and then there’s that Made in Italy factor. No one else is doing that right now. It’s an incredible value and an eye-opener for the consumer.”

That very well might have been the case this past season, as Summit’s collection has performed well at retail. Harrell reports that two boots sold out completely—and quick. “One was a burgundy dress boot with a lug bottom and the other was a Chelsea boot in a metallic leather,” he describes.

“And that’s without any real brand recognition, unless you count the ‘Italian made’ aspect as being the leading recognition factor at this point.”

Harrell believes Summit’s point of differentiation will be a viable selling 62 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

Afordable Italian craftsmanship à la Summit White Mountain.

point for the foreseeable future as production costs look to continue to skyrocket in Asia and the Euro remains weak against the Dollar. It also helps that White Mountain has strong ties to its Italian factory partners, having produced hundreds of thousands of pairs with them in the ’80s. “With our design, manufacturing and sourcing abilities we’ll be able to keep prices at an affordable range as compared to China,” Harrell confirms.

Another factor helping keep prices under control is the close proximity to the American market. “The boat trip is half the time from Italy to Boston than it is from Hong Kong to L.A. And air freight is 25 percent of the cost compared to China,” Harrell says. This also equates to shorter lead times by as much as 30 to 45 days, which is another attractive selling point to retailers. “Our customers can buy much closer to season, which gives them more confidence that they are covering the right trends as well as ones that might emerge later,” he notes. Retailers who want to buy 90 days out, for example, should not have any issues, whereas that’d be next to impossible if production was coming out of China. “That’s a really big advantage,” Harrell adds, “as buyers today look to buy later and later.”

In addition to these aforementioned brand attributes, there’s an icing on the cake aspect that makes Harrell’s new job all the more sweet. It’s a sort of homecoming as Harrell counts many current White Mountain employees as former business associates and, subsequently, close friends.

The relationships date back to the ’80s when Harrell was running the lease department for Wohl Shoe Company and White Mountain was a supplier. “It feels like family,” he says, noting that Steve Gill was his sales rep back then and is still with the company today. “And they have the resources and expertise that will allow me do what I need to in order to build Summit into a great brand.”

For this coming year that means continuing to open better-grade retailers and build on what has already been started. “The goal is to grow the brand organically,” Harrell notes. “We have lots of plans in the works, be it celebrity seeding, marketing, building a strong sales team…All the steps that need to be taken, we will be taking.” And Harrell relishes the opportunity to be involved in all aspects, spanning product, sales and marketing. “It’s not easy but I know what steps to take to get us there,” he says. The most important step being, of course, to continue to make great shoes, which Harrell takes comfort in knowing is a true passion at White Mountain.

“Back when I was a buyer I recognized it, and I’ve always held them in very high regard,” he says. “They are great people with an equally great reputation. It’s a win-win situation.” —Greg Dutter

COCKTAIL PARTY & CASINO NIGHT THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 2015 F E AT U R I N G

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UPCLOSE COMFORT

A Metamorphosis Whimsical children’s brand Livie & Luca grows into adulthood with new women’s collection.

Something Fresh German brand Tamaris comes ashore for Fall ’15 delivery.

ALREADY A TOP-SELLER in Europe, the Wortmann Group introduces its flagship women’s comfort and lifestyle brand Tamaris to the United States for next fall. The company has had its eye on this market for some time but, according to Jan Brinkmann, president and CEO of Tamaris USA, the decision was timed until the marketplace would be most receptive. That time is now.

“We think we are coming to the U.S. at a time when the market has become a bit stale,” Brinkmann says. “The timing is great to introduce new, fresh product.”

Tamaris is aimed at professional women, age 30 to 49, who seek ontrend styling with exceptional fit and comfort. The collection spans pumps to boots to flats and from dress to casual to sporty. Innovative features include its proprietary Antishokk comfort system that reduces heel impact by 50 percent, Duo-Tex breathable water-repellant membranes, Primaloft insulation for its winter boots and Touch It memory foam footbeds in its casual sneakers. Hand-applied finishes also give tselect styles a rich, artisan look. Fall trends include reptile prints in glossy and semi-glossy finishes, mixed material blocking, multiple buckles and chain treatments. Look also for silhouettes with block heel shapes, pointed toes and western influences, among others.

Overall, Brinkmann says Tamaris meets the growing demand among U.S. consumers for style and performance. “Top quality fashion footwear made with smart technologies that enhance the wearer’s well-being and comfort at affordable prices, combined with an effective marketing and franchise system, will work well in North America,” he says. Brinkmann, who previously worked at Gabor during the launch of its Snipe brand and, before that, ran Rieker USA, reports that Tamaris’ business plan has included in-depth U.S. market analysis and several project teams already in place to make the introduction as seamless as possible. To be sure, this is not a typical start-up. While new to U.S. consumers, Tamaris comes ashore with nearly 50 years of rich brand heritage, is already established in Europe, Russia and Asia and is backed by a $1 billion parent company.

Tamaris’ distribution strategy is aimed at leading independents, fashion boutiques, better department stores and select multi-channel and online retailers. Retail prices range from $89 for pumps and flats to $260 for leather boots. Brinkmann adds that margins—a 60 percent initial mark-up—is another attractive selling point that should get the ball rolling quickly. That said he seeks manageable growth, noting Wortmann has a long-term vision for Tamaris in the U.S. “There’s no second chance for making a first impression,” he says. —Lauren Fusilier 64 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

WHEN LIVIE & Luca hit the children’s market in 2005, it did so with a mission to do more than sell shoes. Co-founders Mitzi Rivas and Amie Garcia wanted to spread joy as well. Mission accomplished as its line of whimsical kids’ shoes have garnered a strong foothold in that segment over the past decade and the brand is known for its numerous charitable initiatives and its eco-friendly design efforts. The next step for the brand is the launch of a women’s line for Fall ’15. The expansion, according to Tom Konecki, commodore for Livie & Luca, is a natural progression. Fans (think lots of moms) of the children’s line wanted to know where they could find the same comfort characteristics and unique materials in adult sizes.

“What makes our kids’ shoes so great is their flexibility and comfort features without them looking like comfort shoes,” reports Emily Pierdinock-Hagen, design and product development manager. “They’re full of whimsy and special details that we now will carry through to women’s.” But that doesn’t mean the collection looks like big kid shoes. Konecki promises they’ll be designed from scratch with women in mind. After conducting research and talking to mothers, it became clear that what was missing from the marketplace was the versatility required for the varied and often unexpected possibilities in a woman’s daily life. Accordingly, the line spans ballet flats to dressier styles to riding boots—and all possess standard Euro comfort features such as good-fitting lasts, foam footbeds, quality sock linings and wearable outsoles. Design details include soft kidskin and suedes, treated leathers, shimmery metallics and a signature butterfly insignia—a play on the natural progression of the kids’ caterpillar logo. “We wanted the consumer to see a great silhouette, have them pick up the shoe and realize it will be very comfortable, and then notice all the little details that make it so special,” says Pierdinock-Hagen.

The launch, Konecki says, will be controlled so as to bring the brand into the market in the right way. “We’re looking for the right people to partner with who are willing to help tell our story and build this line, the same as we did with our kids’ line,” he affirms. It starts with the strong relationships Livie & Luca already has with retailers across the U.S. and around the world. Distribution is aimed at specialty and department stores, as well as key online retailers and its own website.

So far the response has been extremely positive, according to Konecki.

“If I could describe the line in one word,” he says, “it would be ‘refreshing.’” He adds that it all harkens back to the company’s premise to spread joy, be it building playgrounds, donating to local charities, employing eco-friendly practices and, of course, making shoes that make customers feel good. The ultimate goalm he adds, is seeing kids grow into its women’s line and some day outfitting their children in Livie & Luca to complete the brand’s circle of life. —L.F.

continued from page 12 with distressed browns and classic black, Vanwy says popular pops of colors include turquoise, orchid and lilac.

Men’s tailoring looks to be another key trend for fall. From chunkier masculine soles to intricate haberdashery details and wingtip-inspired perforations, women’s boots are given an androgynous makeover. “Menswear trends were all over the runways,” notes Murphy, adding it reflects a pendulum swing away from overly ornate collections of the past few seasons. In particular, Chelsea boots, brogues and oxford-inspired slip-on booties translate this trend best while perforations and fabric inlays offer more subtle call outs. Along those lines, Victoria Haddon from H by Hudson predicts that the pointed-toe block heeled Chelsea boot will be one of the “it” shoes of the season.

Smith reports that boot styles, in general, have bulked up as dainty heels, stilettos and kitten heels have fallen out of favor. “They just don’t suit the functional, sporty aesthetic that fashion favors at the moment,” she says. Smith adds that the active wear trend has not only brought sneaker brands to the fashion forefront but also forced non-sport brands to produce more functional and colorful looks. “Key trends for the season include heavy contrast-color rubber soles that continue the summer success of ‘ugly’ footwear shapes,” she says.

“The athletic trend has allowed brands such as Wolverine to go crazy with color,” says Hill. Intense blues, bright reds and hints of metallic can be found sprinkled throughout the brand’s latest collection.

Sarokin reports even the fashion-forward Net-APorter customer is looking for more functional and sport-inspired boots. Brands on the e-tailer’s site delivering on that look span Miu Miu to Nike.

One might argue that Sorel is the Godfather of this trend. Erin Sander, global director for the Columbia subsidiary, says sport details in its Fall ’15 collection include neoprene accents, rubber outsoles and pops of colors, as well as a new take on sneaker boots that feature a built-in wedge, waterproof full-grain leather and coated canvas with two-tone pops of colors. “Our designers took a lot of inspiration this year from the athletic and fitness trends,” she confirms. Murphy also cites a sport trend influence in Cobb Hill’s collection. She confesses to having played down its New Balance connections before, but now it’s a crucial part of the design process. “We are focused on sport bottoms that make boots functional but also cute,” she offers, noting the sport category is becoming increasingly important. “Look at what women wear on the weekends—gym clothes are no longer just for the gym, and women aren’t going to wear that style with riding boots.” Murphy believes short, lace-up hikers and moon boot-inspired styles will be popular looks next fall.

Vanwy says the sport influence is even being incorporated into western designs. For example,

Durango tweaked the durometer of its outsoles, incorporating a softer and more shock-absorbing rubber material. “We are taking out the weight and adding in a comfort aspect, but still keeping the silhouettes the same,” she explains. Vanwy adds, “It incorporates the comfort and function of athletic footwear without taking away from our heritage designs.” Pelizzari cites Chanel and Alexander Wang as pioneers in fusing technical fabrications, like stretch leather, neoprene and nylon, into fashion boots. She says it offers a comfort benefit and meets an aesthetic appeal—one that is best realized in styles that combine menswear tailoring, athletic details and dynamic outsoles with linear, body-inspired shapes.

A few key embellishment stories will still play a role amid this minimal, athletic boot landscape.

Multiple buckles and straps are prevalent across many collections, which some experts say stems from the growing influence of music festival fashion. “We are seeing long loose flowing pants and sleeves,” notes Vanwy. The result is a lot of “boho-inspired” extras, including feathers, embroidery and fringe. Murphy says mixed textures are another way to add interest to otherwise minimal styles. “We keep the boots tonal but add blocking interest through textures such as supple leathers paired with antique suede,” she says.

On-trend textures range from futuristic to heritage. Sander lists military-inspired textiles, geometric patterns, mixed materials, rich leathers, wool, nylon and knits as trending for this fall. Pelizzari cites material treatments such as brushing, washing, distressing and embossing as being important themes. Whatever the material, waterproof linings are increasingly becoming a standard expectation. “Waterproof casual boots are more versatile,” Murphy says. “You aren’t dictated by whether it snows or rains.” Hush Puppies, Geox, Emu and Caterpillar are all introducing waterproof suede and leather styles to their lines next fall.

On the men’s side, style with function versatility is also the name of the game. “Our customers have been gravitating towards hybrid styles where formal and casual meet, be it dressier uppers with a more casual outsole to suit an urban lifestyle,” explains Justin Burzynski, men’s director for Dune London. Smith predicts important details in this gender will include loop eyelets, hiking silhouettes, contrast rubberized soles and tweed and herringbone paneling. Boots, in general, continue to gain in popularity among male consumers.

“Men’s fashion moves slowly but we are finally starting to see them getting into more interesting styles and little color pops,” says Murphy. Popular silhouettes for fall look to be the classic Chelsea, chukka and desert silhouettes as well as brogueinspired lace-ups and engineer boots. “Women have always bought boots,” notes Vanwy, “But as more and more men enter the category…That will make a big difference.” •

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E-beat

Social Shopping Retailcommon helps retailers connect with consumers’ mobiles devices.

IMAGINE A WORLD where retailers, big and small, could entice shoppers into their stores without resorting to a barrage of junk mail and e-mail hawking discounts and coupons. That’s the goal of Toronto-based social shopping platform Retailcommon, which serves more than 6,000 retail locations and 20 million customers in Canada and Europe and, beginning this past November, set up shop in the United States. “We took a long look at the market and saw that in its current state there’s no place where consumers can find relevant deals in real time across a large geography,” explains CEO James Cunningham, noting that most brands’ marketing dollars are focused on consumers living in big cities. “There are thousands of shopping centers and shoppers in smaller markets, and what Retailcommon allows is for those brands to reach and engage those consumers who are actively shopping.”

So how does it work? Retailcommon provides its clients with adaptive, web-based administration tools to instantly create and distribute advertising and promotional content such as redeemable mobile coupons in an effort to generate traffic, increase sales and build customer engagement. For shoppers there is no app to download; instead they see those shareable messages on their smartphones in a Pinterest-style display via a mobile platform that integrates into the back-end of the retailer’s existing website. Retailers, meanwhile, get instant data on how the marketing efforts are performing and can quickly optimize content to maximize results. For instance, if a black shoe is selling more than a brown version, the retailer can tweak the promotion to focus on the former. “Instead of having to prepare promotional material months in advance and watch what it does, our retailers are using the real-time data that is available to them and reacting to it to make it far more effective to sales,” Cunningham says.

Macy’s, Kenneth Cole, Athleta and Payless ShoeSource are among the first American retailers to have signed on for the service. Cunningham stresses that it’s as suitable for one-store operations as it is for a chain of 5,000 doors. “It’s as cost effective and as meaningful to their bottom line as any other opportunity,” he says. The fee is $50 a month per each store location.

Cunningham’s goal, ultimately, is to replace the junk mail that clogs both consumers’ physical and virtual mailboxes and help retailers get more bang for their marketing buck. In that regard, there’s plenty of room for improvement, as he notes that of the $170 billion that American companies spent on spam in 2013, only 3 percent of consumers receiving that unsolicited material bought anything. “We’re trying to make retailers’ lives incredibly easy,” he says. —Lyndsay McGregor 66 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

BUYER CHAT

Brittany Nicholls Lulu*s

WHEN MOTHER-DAUGHTER team Debra Cannon and Colleen Winter started their vintage fashion boutique Lulu*s in Chico, CA, in 1996, they had no idea that 12 years later their business model would move from bricks to clicks and from retro to right-now. Fast forward to today and Lulu*s is known for its on-trend array of apparel, footwear and accessories targeting women ages 18 to 30.

Lulu*s Buyer Brittany Nicholls’ path changed, too. After studying English at Chico State University, she began writing a fashion column for a local weekly newspaper.

“Fashion is something that’s always been a passion of mine. That job allowed me to be involved in the fashion industry and organize photo shoots and it eventually segued into an amazing position with Lulu*s,” she says.

Now Nicholls is charged with making sure the site’s selection of shoes (400-plus styles that are updated on a daily basis) pairs perfectly with its expansive offering

of clothing and is priced to appeal to its target Millennial’s budget.

“Lulu*s has always been about quality at a great price point; affordable luxury,” she says. To that end, prices range from $17 for pointed-toe flats to $207 for leather mid-calf boots from Matisse. House of Harlow 1960, Diba True, Sbicca, Coconuts and Very Volatile are also part of the mix, and consumers can choose to shop by category, color, print or trend. “A lot goes into buying. I have a vision for items before they end up online,” Nicholls notes, adding that she pays particular attention to what is (or isn’t) moving online. “Scouring all data, every figure, is crucial for success,” she says. “You have to know what works for your company and your customer.” —L.M. Who is the typical Lulu*s customer? Chic, feminine and always on the pulse of style.

What are your key trends this spring? Bright colors and floral prints. Lace-ups are going to be big for us, as well as single soles, platforms and wedges.

What about key colors? Pastel gray and metallic detailing.

What’s the best new brand added to your mix in the past year?

Seychelles.

What trend are you tired of ? Giant platforms, western stitching and faux fur pumps.

What are you on the lookout for as the Fall ’15 buying season begins?

We are suckers for the perfect pair of boots at Lulu*s. Boots are a trend that will never die and we are just fine with that.

continued from page 19 vides opportunities. At the same time, brickand-mortar retailers need to embrace their service aspect. While a lot of goods are ordered online because it’s easy and convenient, at the end of the day it’s not social at all. A lot of women like to shop, particularly for shoes. I have an 11-year-old daughter who was born in the Internet age and regularly shops online, but she also really loves to go shopping with her mother. If you have a shop that offers good service and makes your customer feel special, then you have an opportunity. Of course, you must be online in some capacity too. One of the two today is not possible, in my opinion.

So, by and large, you are an optimist?

Yes. There are plenty of possibilities, and with them that brings opportunities. Retailers are often afraid of what they don’t have, instead of being happy with what they do have. I also believe consumers always want to have plenty of choices. Otherwise, it’s like living in North Korea. Nobody wants that—not even the North Koreans, probably.

The challenge for retailers going forward is how they reach consumers. That used to be 100 percent through their physical stores and it may one day be a 50-50 split with online. Whatever the ratio, it should be as seamless as possible. If they are able to do so effectively, then I think they will manage and survive.

Where do you see Wolky in the U.S. in three years?

I hope that we are a little younger for a larger customer base, age-wise. If the mother is 60 and the daughter is 35 and they are both happy buying Wolky, then that’d be a success. That said I don’t have specific number sales-wise in my head. We just want to grow steadily. So any risks we take are much more under control. That’s why we don’t sell to certain large department stores, for example, where it requires being part of a daily sales program and us delivering our merchandise on wheels. We won’t do that. The risk is too big. Besides, that’ll only hurt our other retail partners who have helped build our brand.

Wolky is family owned, owns a factory, offers a large in-stock program, doesn’t sell direct online...Pretty unique amid this current business landscape, no?

In those ways, I guess we’re unique. My father and I believe, at the end of the day, we have to all work together. That may sound out there, but it’s true. If all the parts in the chain—retailer, wholesaler, factory, delivery guys, etc.—are happy, then I think we

can become a much more solid company with more stable growth. I also believe most people want to do business with a stable company because it gives some peace of mind. While we are far from perfect, we are not the type of company that delivers shoes and that’s the end of the story for us.

We are only happy if the end consumer is happy. We are not happy just because we placed orders. If the inventory doesn’t move, then we’ll only have a problem a year later.

What is the best lesson you learned from your father about the shoe business?

My father, who is still very involved in the business, loves what he does. He always wants to make it better, be it a particular shoe or the company as a whole. He is very devoted to his work. And while plenty of people are equally passionate and dedicated about trying to improve their businesses, my father has always gone about it in a very humane way. When people speak of him, they always comment on how friendly he is and what a decent man he is.

That’s how I know he went about his business the right way.

What do you love most about your job?

The variety. I’m speaking with you today, tomorrow I’m working on a collection for the American market and on Monday I travel to Vietnam to check in on some of our latest collections. The enormous amount and range of people I meet and work with means not one day is the same.

Plus the ability to travel and run our own company provides me enormous freedom and flexibility. I also really love shoes. The fact that it all starts from nothing, basically.

There’s a sketch, then making the last, the leathers, fitting, samples, alterations‌It’s an entire process that is always interesting and challenging. Then it’s on to the sell-in and, finally, learning how the sellthrough performed.

A person wearing a pair of Wolky shoes is the final confirmation that all your hard work was a success. It’s pretty much conjecture and hope up until that point, right?

Exactly. It’s one of the reasons why whenever I’m in an out-of-the-way place during my travels and see a person wearing a pair of our shoes, I always try to take a picture.

I’ve got shots at the Great Wall of China, in the African bush, at the Berlin Wall...It always gives me a thrill to see people wearing our shoes. As it should, because if it didn’t, I should have become a doctor, a postman or something else instead. •

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LAST WORD

A Buying Collective

GOING THE DISTANCE Former Olympian Bob Kennedy is aiming to help mom-and-pop running shops compete in the e-commerce sales race with eRun Solutions. By Lyndsay McGregor

TWENTY-EIGHT YEARS ago, Bob Kennedy won the 1987 Kinney High School Cross Country Championships, kicking off a career that would crown him one of America’s great distance runners: a two-time Olympian with multiple national championships and three U.S. records to his name—one of which was the first ever non-African to run 5,000 meters under 13 minutes. These days the former professional athlete’s ambition is focused on the business of specialty running stores. Specifically, helping the momand-pops of the retail segment keep pace with big-box and Internet behemoths in a way that still allows them to protect their local brand.

Kennedy’s light bulb moment came when he noticed something “alarming” while managing his six-store running shoe chain, Blue Mile, back in 2010. “We were retaining only 50 percent of new customers over an 18-month period,” he notes. After checking in with colleagues in neighboring markets, he discovered he wasn’t the only specialty run retailer losing customers to big-name competitors.

The answer: A stronger online presence was needed. But that immediately introduced another problem: How to cover the cost to do so? “We would never make back the amount of money it would take to operate an effective e-commerce platform,” he says. Kennedy then had an epiphany (in January of 2013) with a plug and play e-commerce platform that would allow running specialty store owners to become omnichannel retailers with little to no effort by sharing a common inventory owned by his start-up, dubbed eRun Solutions. This way the independent specialty retailer can offer its customers the convenience of online shopping without risking substantial inventory and e-commerce investments. Customers, for example, can come in for personal fit and gait analysis, but also have the 24-7 convenience of shopping online and still support that business. “I believe in brick-andmortar,” Kennedy offers, “and while consumers still want the option of that 68 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2015

full in-store experience, it’s no longer enough.”

Retailers are charged a one-time installation fee of $3,500 and there’s a monthly subscription rate of $199 (or $349 if they want a more advanced e-mail marketing program). In addition, eRun snags between 80 to 90 percent of the sales revenue (because it pays for, stores and ships the inventory) and the retailer receives the remainder. While not as lucrative as a regular sales margin, Kennedy points out that the alternative is no sale at all. “We handle everything: the catalog, the product images, the descriptions, security, customer service, payment collection, order fulfillment, shipping, returns, etc., but sales are made through a link on the local store’s website and everything is customized to look like it’s coming from there,” he explains. So while eRun ships orders from its warehouse in Indianapolis, as far as the customers are concerned they’re dealing with their neighborhood running shop. Kennedy is already working on upgrading the platform so it can integrate each client’s inventory into what’s already offered through eRun. “This will expand the inventory that’s available online and offer consumers the option to buy online and pick up instore,” he says. It would also offer retailers a chance to make more sales.

(If the order is fulfilled from the retailer’s store, they will be charged a 15 percent fee for that transaction.)

Currently, eRun has 25 retailers on its roster with a combined total of 85 doors. Businesses include The Naperville Running Co. in Illinois; Potomac River Running Co. in Washington, D.C.; Big Peach Running Co. in Georgia; and Charm City Run in Baltimore. Naperville Running Co. Owner Kris Hartner, who was eRun’s first client, says the upgrade will be a welcome addition to the platform. “Going in that direction will be really helpful because right now what’s available online is not a true representation of our business,” he says, noting that while the e-commerce site hasn’t “moved the needle much” when it comes to sales, it’s imperative to offer the option to shop online. Brian Nasuta of Charm City Run seconds that. “It’s a great marketing tool for us because it shows consumers that we’re investing in the online realm,” he says, adding that in the six months since Charm City signed with eRun, its website has seen an uptick in traffic.

The next hurdle for Kennedy is search engine optimization. “Right now our retailers are speaking to their existing customer base, which is a great start, but we need to take this to the next level and get our stores in front of new customers who are Googling ‘Nike and Asics running shoes,’ instead of simply bringing up vendor sites,” he says. “If we could increase the size of the funnel we’re speaking to, it would be a win-win for everyone involved.”