Footwear Plus | January 2016

FALL ’16 BOOTS PREVIEW

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THIS JUST IN : TOTALLY TORONTO

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GARY CHAMPION GETS DOWN TO EARTH

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Haute Hikers THE NEW TRAIL MIX

See the Børn Fall 2016 Collections at OR | Salt Palace Convention Center, and at FFANY | New York Showroom | 1441 Broadway | 15th Floor | New York, NY

201 5 PLUS AWARDS E X C E L L E N C E I N D E S I G N & R E TA I L

Congratulations to All Nominees FOOTWEARPLUSMAGAZINE.COM WOMEN’S COMFORT c Kork-Ease c Birkenstock c Earthies c Pikolinos

WOMEN’S COLLECTION c Vince Camuto c Stuart Weitzman c SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker c Jeffrey Campbell

SANDALS c Ancient Greek Sandals c Aetrex c Taos c Naot

NATIONAL CHAIN c Nordstrom c DSW c Foot Locker c Famous Footwear

MEN’S COMFORT c Rockport c Ecco c OluKai c Geox

MEN’S COLLECTION c Cole Haan c Clarks Originals c Trask c Robert Graham

OUTDOOR c Keen c The North Face c Columbia c Hoka One One

BOUTIQUE c City Soles c Solestruck c Gimme Shoes c Sportie LA

BOOTS c Ugg Australia c Dr. Martens c Frye c Børn

WORK BOOTS c Wolverine c Rocky c Justin Original Workboots c Timberland Pro

OUTDOOR STYLE c Jambu c Sorel c Woolrich c Bogs

LAUNCH OF THE YEAR c Seven Dials c Ccilu c Tamaris c 361°

RUNNING c Brooks c Hoka One One c Under Armour c Saucony

CLOGS c Dansko c Swedish Hasbeens c Sanita c Mia

SNEAKER BOUTIQUE c Concepts c Extra Butter c Packer Shoes c Supreme

BRAND OF THE YEAR c Under Armour c Vans c Skechers c Sorel

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE c New Balance c Converse c Vans c Adidas Originals

CELEBRITY COLLABS c Kanye West x Adidas c Iggy Azalea x Steve Madden c Rihanna x Puma c Disney x Vans c Bee Line (Pharrell Williams) x Timberland

ONLINE RETAILER c Zappos c Shoes.com c ShoeBuy c Net-a-Porter

COMPANY OF THE YEAR c Skechers c VF Corp. c Nike c New Balance

ATHLEISURE c Skechers c Adidas c Ecco c Nike CHILDREN’S c Keen c Jambu c Toms c Umi

SNEAKER BOUTIQUE COLLABS c Concepts x Nike SB “Grail” c Packer x Ewing Athletics “Fame & War” c J. Crew x New Balance 998 “In Good Company” c Colette x Asics Gel Lyte III “Dotty”

SIT & FITS c Comfort One Shoes c Sole Desire Shoes c Eneslow c Karavel Shoes

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AT L A N TA S H O E M A R K E T.C O M

JANUARY 2016

Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

F E A T U R E S 10 Balancing Act Stefano Caroti, president of omnichannel for Deckers Brands, on why innovation plus time-honored principles equals retail success. By Kathy Passero 14 Story Time Gary Champion, president of Earth Brands, on how the company’s contemporary design aesthetic is gaining momentum and why that’s a story worth telling. By Greg Dutter 36 Elements of Style Our Fall ’16 outdoor preview of key brands delves into the ongoing fashion-meetsfunction design revoultion. By Judy Leand 44 Northern Exposure Less refined than brogues, boot makers focus on heritage styling with an added dose of brawn for next fall.

48 Alpine Cool The trail meets the runway: Classic outdoor embellishments fused with feminine silhouettes give rise to the haute hiker.

By Tara Anne Dalbow and Ann Loynd

D E P A R T M E N T S PA G E

48 On the cover: Pikolinos high-heeled hikers, Cosabella camisole, H&M skirt, OV US choker, vintage knee-socks.

Photographer: Jamie Isaia; Fashion Editors: Tara Anne Dalbow and Ann Loynd; stylist: Kim Johnson; hair and makeup: Abraham Sprinkle/Next Artists; model: Jessica D./Muse Management.

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Editor’s Note Scene & Heard This Just In Trendspotting What’s Selling Shoe Salon Comfort E-beat Last Word

This page: ankle boot with buckle detail by Sebago; Durango crepe sole hiker.

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

EDITORIAL Ann Loynd Senior Editor Lauren Olsen Associate Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Tara Anne Dalbow Contributing Fashion Editor Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer Judy Leand Contributing Editor ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl.

New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

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E D I TO R ’S N OT E Do the Evolułion

BELL-BOTTOM BLUES It’s time to let go of the Seventies, at least for a little while.

THE ’70S, THE decade darling of designers for what seems like years longer than its actual timespan, has run its course.

It’s time to let go. It’s time to let the era’s notable looks lay fallow for a few years so any future revisits stand a better chance of capturing nostalgic appeal. Let’s see if, in fact, absence makes the heart grow fonder.

The ’70s muses, cultural milestones and fashions have been mined exhaustively for inspiration, reinterpretation and, more often than not, low-cost re-issue.

We’ve been to boho and back—and back again. We’ve rewound fringe, shearling, bell-bottoms, graphic tees, etc. We’ve stepped back into platforms, clogs, gladiator sandals and joggers. Even the decade’s color palette, rich in shades of brown and orange, is about as appetizing as the classic Burger King uniforms that combo so vividly brings to my mind. The point I’m making: What’s old no longer feels new—not when we’ve been awash in the past for far too long. What’s old is old.

I apologize if I sound like a ’70s-hater. I have nothing against the decade I spent happily living out the all-American suburban kid’s dream. (Think Stand By Me, the ’70s-era remake.) But I believe our industry—and the fashion business as a whole—has reached a tipping point on how much we can continue to rely on the past in the hopes it will excite consumers about buying for the present.

A cynic (surely not me) might say overly used product adjectives like heritage, vintage, original and classic are merely euphemisms for tired, old, unoriginal and clichéd. And while there have been plenty of younger people who viewed these retro styles as new, that gets old fast. More importantly, it lacks innovation, and that gets old even faster. Even the millions of consumers who wore these looks in real time and embraced the first few trips down memory lane have grown tired after the umpteenth trip.

I understand that when the economy tanked many decided to play it safe. It was the smart move—the only move, in some cases.

Buyers weren’t likely to stick their necks out testing new concepts, fashions and brands. What’s more, the near-death of capitalism spooked millions of consumers about the future. The desire to go back to a less stressful and (perceived) happier era was the

ideal consumer mindset to tap into via ’70s-era fashion revivals.

So that’s how we got here, and now it’s time to move on because we are faced with a consumer who’s been there/worn that and is increasingly hungry for fresh products. The overwhelming popularity of wearable and handheld technologies is evidence of that hunger. Similarly, Nike’s innovative products (Flyknit being the latest) have fueled some of the best quarters in its history. Under Armour, Hoka One One and Skechers have all been on fire at retail the past few seasons because they’ve delivered innovative products. If not for the athletic market, where would the innovation in our industry be?

At least the conversation about needing to introduce freshness into the market has started in the brown shoe side of our business. Several wholesale execs I’ve spoken with recently have talked about how consumers are seeking something new. Or as Gary Champion, CEO of Earth Brands and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 14), bluntly stated: “She’s tired of looking down at her feet and seeing an oblique toe.” The modern makeover Champion is overseeing at Earth Brands is encouraging. Likewise, our outdoor market preview, “Elements of Style” (p. 36), profiles an array of brands that are combining cutting-edge performance technologies with fashionable looks that re-envision a market that had boxed itself into a granola aesthetic for decades. Sorel, one of the aforementioned profiles and a leader of this rapidly growing fashion-meets-function category, has experienced record sales of late—further proof that offering something fresh can ring the cash register. Jambu, also profiled, has burst onto the scene over the past few seasons with its blend of outdoor chic as well. This trail-meets-the-runway story has picked up momentum for Fall ’16 as evidenced by our fashion story, “Alpine Cool” (p. 48). Performance and now fashion brands are coming at it from their respective roots, creating a versatile and wearable category with potential broad appeal.

The rise of haute hikers proves, once again, that consumers possess an insatiable appetite to buy the latest and greatest. If our industry succeeds in delivering innovations, shoppers are more than likely to get on board. Revisiting ’70s fashions fed consumer demand for a while. Now it’s time to update the menu.

It’s time to go back to the future.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

6 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

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Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

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SCENE & HEARD

SAINT ZAPPOS

Cat Footwear’s Colorado Glow collection.

Go Glow CAT FOOTWEAR GIVES an electrified update to its classic Colorado work boot with the infusion of UV-charged glow-in-the-dark heels and laces for Fall ’16. The boots are a nod to its ’80s-era birth when fluorescent clothing was all the rage. “What’s old always becomes new again,” says Dani Zizak, vice president of global marketing for Wolverine Worldwide. “This is a new way to capture the spirit of the ’80s and, in the selfie era, glow-in-the-dark boots really help you stand out.”

In addition to original fans, Zizak believes the Colorado Glow (suggested retail is $165 to $180) will resonate with young city kids—New York, London, Hong Kong, Mexico City, etc.—who are active and express utilitarian style in their fashion choices. “They have grown up with technology and will see the glow-in-the-dark outsoles and laces as an extension of their love of all things tech,” she says, adding, “They are creatures of the night who know where the best spot is to get a hot dog at 3 a.m. or where to watch the sun come up.”

Doing the Right Thing NICHOLAS LOWINGER H A S been helping children in need since the tender age of 5— yes, 5. That’s when the founder of Gotta Have Sole, a non-profit charity that collects new shoes for donation to children in need, started volunteering at a Rhode Nicholas Island homeless shelter with his Lowinger mother. “I had just come from the shoe store having been outfitted with new light-up sneakers,” the now 16-year-old recalls. “I couldn’t wait to show them off, but my mother cautioned me not to, explaining that many children didn’t have proper footwear, if any at all.”

That day Lowinger saw first-hand that many children wore ill-fitting shoes—some held together by duct tape—or were forced to share pairs with another family member. That’s when he started donating his gently used footwear. A few years later he came to the realization that, between size and wear constraints, the best way to make a meaningful impact would be to collect donations of new shoes.

Thus, Gotta Have Sole was launched in 2010. It was originally part of a community service project for his religious coming-of-age ceremony. But Lowinger never meant for this to be a temporary 8 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

‘TWAS THE MONTH before Christmas, not a shopper was stirring, not even with the click of a mouse…That’s when Zappos, under the cover of darkness, played the role of a real-live St. Nick, swooping into the quaint hamlet of Hanover, NH, and leaving gift boxes filled with cold-weather gear upon the 2,000 doorsteps of nearly every residence in town.

The clever holiday promotion went the extra mile—and then some—as more than 30 Zappos employees rolled into town in an armada of six vans and worked through the night to deliver the boxes by morn-

effort. The lifelong philanthropist has kept the foundation going, having outfitted more than 45,000 children to date with new shoes thanks to monetary donations as well as collecting and distributing overages and discontinued styles sent by wholesalers and retailers. (Zappos sends regular donations from its 6pm off-price outlet.)

Lowinger is a firm believer that a pair of new shoes can improve a child’s self esteem as well as reduce bullying. “They can go to school every day and participate in sports and, in my opinion, have as good a childhood as possible,” he says.

Gotta Have Sole Foundation has attained 501c3 status, which Lowinger proudly notes was earned by his first day of seventh grade. Donors are able to receive applicable tax benefits. To that end, he welcomes all donations (sneakers are most desirable) and invites companies and individuals to support Gotta Have Sole clubs, which are currently active in 11 high schools in eight states. The charity reaches 43 states now, and Lowinger’s goal is to be present in all 50 by the time he graduates high school this spring. But Lowinger is not stopping there: He vows Gotta Have Sole will continue on its mission in the years ahead: “I will continue fighting for the equality of homeless children throughout my lifetime,” he says.

To donate or learn more, visit gottahavesole.org.

Holiday cheer: gift boxes courtesy of Zappos.

ing. In the spirit of the gift-giving season, Zappos sought to give back. Specifically, it wanted to show gratitude to a town— nestled in the White Mountains and home to Dartmouth University—that just so happens to be filled with loyal Zappos customers. “We wanted to celebrate that and thank the town for their loyalty,” says Kristin Richmer, a member of Zappos’ awareness marketing team. Each family received size- and gender-neutral items like hats, gloves, socks, sunglasses, headphones and backpacks.

Richmer says the aim of the promotion was to convey a feeling of “genuine gratitude” as well as help residents prepare for the impending long winter. It was also a way for Zappos to showcase its “wow” factor standards. Zappos didn’t just mail the gifts, which it could have done more affordably. Instead, the online retailer chose to ship 30 of its employees to Hanover and deliver the gifts in person—a human touch aspect that was reportedly very well received. “We heard a lot of ‘I love Zappos’ that day, which was really rewarding,” Richmer says.

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FOOTWEAR NETWORK SERIES PRESENTED BY DECKERS BRANDS

Balancing Act Stefano Caroti, president of omnichannel for Deckers Brands, on why retail success requires seamless integration of innovation with time-honored tenets.

BY K AT H Y PA S S E RO

What is your game plan for Deckers STYLE FILE Brands this year?

This year, we’re focusing on three How would you describe your core areas: sharing our brand stories, personal style? Collaborative. delivering a channel segmentation strategy and building strategic relaWhat is your go-to shoe style? tionships across our channels. We’ll Ugg Freamon. work closely with our partners to proWhat is the first website that vide a seamless, consistent experience you visit each morning? NYT.com globally. Our wholesale channel is a (The New York Times). vital part of this equation. Whether major or independent, we intend to What are you reading? I F**king invest with retailers who will help us Love That Company: How a New safeguard, nurture and enhance our Generation of Brand Builders is brands—those who will partner with Defining the Post-Amazon World us for the long haul. We’ll be more

by Bayard Winthrop. selective in distributing our prodWhat is your motto? Actions ucts and, thus, will be offering a difspeak louder than words. ferentiated proposition by channel.

We’re also exploring ways to relieve inventory pressures on our partners through access to innovative tools and specialty programs we’re currently testing. Most notably, we’ll be unveiling a new store design early this year that allows us to better integrate our omni-channel capabilities while enhancing our storytelling. This will be an exciting year for our brands.

The industry’s “it” word the past year has been “omni-channel.” How do you define the term; have brick-and-mortar retailers made advances in it?

Omni comes from the Latin word ‘Omnis,’ which means universal. In essence, it’s cross-channel done very, very well. It’s the seamless, consistent and continuous brand you intend to give the consumer across formats and devices, offline and online. Some retailers have made inroads. Others haven’t. The journey starts with the realization that the consumer is in charge like never before. Thanks to digital technology, consumers interact with your brand constantly and have the power to shape it. Ensuring that your brand is consistent across all touch points will make it more compelling, harmonious, understandable and engaging.

WHICH WORKS BEST—new technology or tried-and-true retail strategies? A winning formula requires both, according to Stefano Caroti, the newly appointed president of omni-channel, Deckers Brands.

Tech alone won’t do the trick anymore because today’s shoppers expect it, he says. “Technology is just an enabler for commerce. It’s nothing without great product, stores and service,” Caroti explains. “Eighty percent of purchasing decisions are still made at the point of sale. A compelling store environment and great service are critical success factors for brick-and-mortar retailers.”

Delivering the perfect mix of new and established retailing tactics is part of Caroti’s job as head of Deckers’ retail division. He focuses on evolving the company’s customer-centric vision while driving channel innovation and global growth across its portfolio of brands. His track record of success with Puma and, before that, Nike—where he oversaw multi-billion dollar businesses— has prepared him well for the task. In the following interview, Caroti shares his take on the current state of retailing—and why “seamless integration” is poised to become the new industry catchphrase.

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

Have traditional retailers collectively moved the needle forward on the technology front over the past year?

For the past several years, retailers have looked for new and innovative ways to utilize technology to enhance their customers’ in-store experience. This trend is likely to continue. However, as consumers become less fazed by instore technology, only advancements that seamlessly integrate and provide value will be adopted. Seamless, service-based technologies are the ones that have and will continue to move the needle forward for retailers.

On the flipside, technology can be difficult and costly to adopt, as retailers are learning with the move to chip-and-pin credit card readers this year.

It’s more important than ever to know your customer and where you fit into their lives. All technology isn’t right for every retailer, just as every retailer isn’t right for every customer.

What in-store innovations have shoppers benefitted from lately?

The simplest and most practical innovations have been the most successful.

Service-based technologies like reserve in store, fulfillment from store, >65

Fall 2016

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THIS JUST IN

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Photography by Nicole Comeau 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

Tamaris USA INC. 路 4767 New Broad Street, Orlando, FL 32814 路 office (407) 514 2734 路 theschuh@tamaris.us 路 theschuh.com

STORY TIME Gary Champion, president of Earth Brands, on how the c o m p a n y ’s c o n t e m p o r a r y d e s i g n a e s t h e t i c i s g a i n i n g m o m e n t u m a n d w h y i t ’s a n i d e a l t i m e t o t e l l t h a t s t o r y.

ARY CHAMPION JUST marked his sixth year at the helm of Earth Brands, and he reports that all systems are go. The company has just moved into new, state-of-the-art headquarters in Waltham, MA; sales of its branded division (Earth and Earth Origins) have been garnering, on average, 20- to 25-percent annual growth; sales volume surpassed the $50-million goal (at five years); and each brand (including the premium Earthies by Earth collection) is poised to make that next jump with the backing of full-blown marketing stories to be introduced this fall.

In fact, Champion says that’s the No.1 goal for this year.

Earth Brands has brought in an ad agency for the first time to help tie in the many brand attributes with its products to start telling a complete story. “It’s a really cool name and there’s a lot we can associate around it,” Champion says. “For example, we plant a tree for every pair we sell, and we associate with a lot of other worthy programs that we haven’t talked about enough, and we should.”

The time for storytelling, Champion says, is now because Earth Brands has its products right. “We’ve reached the point where people understand when they walk into a store. They know what Earth is about as far as the comfort underfoot, the styling and materials,” he says. Specifically, he cites the contemporary design shift—a move away from traditional European comfort styling and last shapes—as gaining traction with women increasingly in search of something fresh and more feminine when it comes to casual footwear.

“I think she’s just gotten tired of looking down at her feet and seeing an oblique last,” Champion says bluntly. “It’s very comfortable, but she’s gotten 14 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

to the point now where it’s like she is putting up with the look.” He adds, “We want her to look down at her feet and say, ‘I love the way these look, and my feet are comfortable as well.’ We made some nice strides on that front.”

Champion credits the late Michel Meynard, former Earth Brands owner and product visionary, for starting the company on this contemporary design path when he began developing Earthies a few years before his passing in 2013. It was his take on merging greater style with proven comfort

O&A features. “He hit on something—some of the best-selling Earthies patterns and styles from the get-go turned into what Earth is today,” Champion notes.

“They were very simple patterns, elegant and had a little touch of design that really sold well.”

It took a few seasons, however, for Champion to get the Earth Brands portfolio settled. “We started with Earthies, then we launched (the volume-priced) Earth Origins and then we reintroduced Earth,” he says. “It took a few seasons to get not only the consumer, but our retailers on board as well, with how What are you reading? The we are trying to position each of our Slight Edge. It’s about how brands in the marketplace. And that to take what you are good at, really clicked last year.” So much so discipline yourself and move that Champion reports, “We had our forward. I’m also reading best year to date.”

Storyscaping: Stop Creating The portfolio as it stands now is Ads, Start Creating Worlds.

Earth Origins, which is positioned as It’s an opportune time for us the big box, promotional department to start thinking that way as a store and online business resting mostly business. in the $60 to $80 retail range. Earth is the full-price brand consisting of more What is inspiring you right updated styling at $100 to $120 with now? Some really cool new some boots up to $160, and Earthies designs in watches and furnisits on top of that as a collection that, ture. It’s very simplistic lines Champion says, takes comfort fashion that give a lot of sophistication to another level. “It’s very cool, forwardto the products. I’ve been talkthinking product via the last shapes, ing a lot with our product team heel heights and materials,” he says, about this because we have been noting the price range is $150 up to incorporating it into the design $270 for select boots. of our new offices, and we Champion is quick to point out, should somehow incorporate it however, that none of the success into our products as well.

Earth Brands has achieved over the past few seasons came easily. Indeed, Who is your most coveted dinhe says cakewalks in this industry are ner guest? James Taylor. I’ve a thing of the distant past. It’s been always wanted to meet him. I replaced by a minefield with fewer love his music and creativity. retailers, increased competition for shelf space, sourcing challenges, price What sound do you love? My pressures and ever-more discerning wife’s voice. shoppers. The company also had to deal with the loss of Meynard. You simply don’t go out and find another “Meynard,” he says. That level of experience and talent was one-of-a-kind.

So there was an adjustment period, but Champion reports that the design team, led by company veteran Angelo Romero, has since filled in admirably.

Then there was the challenge of overcoming Champion himself, which has been perhaps the most difficult of all to getting Earth Brands on the road to meaningful growth. Specifically, Champion had to compete against his sales legacy of nearly two decades at Clarks Companies N.A. prior to joining Earth Brands. Retailers didn’t instantly switch allegiance because Champion was no longer with the company, especially since that brand was a cornerstone of their businesses. It wasn’t pretty. “I’m walking into stores where I see walls of my competitor and I’m saying, ‘I would love to take some of that business,’” Champion recalls. “And they’d say, ‘Well, you built that business. You are the

one that got us here.’” Clarks karma is the reason Champion had to earn his way back onto store shelves with Earth Brands one SKU at a time. “We started out fighting against what was a very strong brand in the comfort market,” he says, throwing in a little gallows humor, “I guess we did too good a job.”

Still, Champion’s reputation helped open doors. “Retailers gave us a shot because they trusted me as a person and not just because I had been with Clarks,” he explains. “It was because of the integrity I had built over the years by treating people fairly and Any New Year’s resolutions? honestly—working with them rather Getting myself in better shape. It than trying to take what I could get takes a lot of energy to do what out of them.” Speaking of that, he we are trying to do. I need to says changes in direction at certain clean up my diet; I’m still playcompetitors have helped open doors, ing around with too much sugar. too. Sometimes it’s not what you do right, Champion surmises, it’s what The travel, long hours, responyour competitors do wrong that gives sibilities…It’s not necessarily you an inroad. an older person’s game, is it?

These factors can only carry a brand Now who are you calling old? so far in this business. Long-term [laughs] But you’re right that it’s success requires delivering product a lot of work and you’ve got to be that performs season after season. on your game all the time.

“My reputation might have gotten the door open and some shoes on the What is your current state of floor, but they still had to make sense mind? I’m excited. Underneath with the consumer,” he says, noting the Earth Brands umbrella we the company started hitting its stride have a terrific opportunity to in 2013. “That’s when buyers stopped grow our company. This is what coming to me as a favor; they were I’ve spent a lifetime doing: workcoming because they had sold our ing within growing companies shoes.” Champion and his team have by surrounding myself with good since built on that momentum and are people, taking advantage of marready to take the next leap. “It’s time ket opportunities and moving the to ignite some fires,” he says. “Our brands forward. We’re small, but product is right, more retailers are we are creating some good vibes getting on board and the consumer in the industry. It’s a lot of fun is beginning to grasp who we are. planting the seed, working with We need to start telling our story in product and figuring out how a meaningful way that resonates with you fit onto [retail] floors. consumers and increases loyalty. If we can tie those aspects together, we will really solidify our position in the marketplace.”

OFF THE CUFF

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

Tell me about the company’s new headquarters—what does it look like?

It’s a terrific space that’s all centered on our product. Our shoes sit in the center of this 18,000-square-foot space that’s very elegant, simplistic, cool and modern. We have mezzanines, an epoxy cement in the product areas that adds depth, glass walls, a lot of natural light, and it’s topped off by a 14-footwingspan fan over the middle. I’m really pleased with the way it’s turned out.

Is this modern office aesthetic intended to reflect the brands or company in any specific way?

With respect to the Earth brand in particular, we are trying to introduce some elegance and simplicity by contemporizing what traditional comfort

Stream 4439 Emerald

i’ll never take my wolkys off

O&A footwear has represented. While we are not losing any of the comfort aspects underfoot that Kalso Earth Shoes started out with—removable insoles, cup soles, arch support and so forth that was all about making our bodies healthier—we are updating the styling within the comfort world.

Is it time for a change in that respect?

If you really think about it, over the last 15 to 20 years it’s all been growth out of the Euro comfort type of business. In particular, the Euro last became very important and dominant. We believe that the female consumer is starting to shift back toward a little dressier feel and look—one that’s a little more feminine and updated overall. It’s not necessarily a “dress” shoe, rather it’s a general aesthetic, which means we can put a little more styling into the product and the last shapes can change a bit. It’s about modernizing that typical comfort brown shoe look. Contemporary is what we are after, which is a word we use a lot for guidance. Our target customer has been reacting to it well.

What exactly has she been reacting to?

It’s the use of straps, the combination of leathers and materials, ruching, toe shapes, etc. Our design team has shopped the market extensively in the U.S. and Europe, picking up on certain key details. They have done a terrific job pulling all those aspects together and interpreting them into our Earth business this year and at affordable prices. That is really key because our target customer might see something she really likes, but she’s not going to spend $250 on a pair of shoes. But when she sees that fresh look interpreted in a similar way at $100 to $120, she reacts. That’s where we hit this past year. It’s a little more casual dress feel to the product—not only in leathers and treatments—but in the overall design as well.

It’s a noticeable design shift, yet subtle enough to not be jarring?

Yes. What are are trying to do with Earth, in particular, is make it easy to transition from her Euro comfort look to a little more sophisticated, contemporary styling. The key is to not get too far away where she says, “I can’t wear that.” We really hit that market right last year, and we saw a big jump in our Earth business this year. Earth Origins grew as well, but for different reasons. We used great leathers and hit great price points for very good value.

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Who is more receptive to embrace something different, retailers or consumers?

Consumers are always more receptive, but you can’t really get to them without going through retailers. That’s why when you launch a new brand or concept you’ve got to start through independents, largely, because they are your brand builders. The consumer trusts what that retailer is carrying on their floor. They do with Nordstrom as well, and I think QVC helps with building a new brand. Last year, we won QVC’s Rising Star award, and that’s out of a tough filed of established comfort footwear companies. They told us that their customers have embraced Earth very quickly and they see a real opportunity in growing our business. Actually, it’s a similar kind of growth pattern we experienced when we first started selling Clarks on QVC. Which has been harder: reaching that $50 million annual sales marker with Earth Brands or Clarks?

It was the same hard battle. What helped us along with Clarks is we had the retail division with Hanover that we converted to Clarks stores. That exposed the brand much faster and it gave us a chance to experiment within the brand. Really, the $0 to $50 million phase is some of the toughest work you have to put in because that’s where you have to figure out what

the brand is and establish an identity. If you can’t get over that hump, then you can flounder around forever. The next key level is getting to $100 million in annual sales, which should come much faster.

Why is that, exactly?

Because that’s when you can start expanding your presence in the full-price department stores. You may have gotten a 20-door test that performed well, and then it can go to 300 doors and on and on. There are big pieces of business inside the full-price department store tier that are starting to take a real interest in Earth. We have hit the level where they are saying, “Hey, these guys are onto something.” Fifty million in sales is the point where that becomes noticeable. Retailers are seeing Earth in the right stores and hearing how it’s performing well. It starts to blossom, and it grabs the attention of the bigger guys.

You noted how launching Clarks and Earth were equally challenging, but this is an entirely different retail landscape. There’s the Internet, for starters. It’s got to be harder, no?

There’s much more competition, for sure. And while the Internet makes it easier to get your brand name out there, it makes it more difficult for managing the integrity of your brand. How do you want your brand to look in the marketplace, and how do you want it to be treated? That requires real manpower today because you’ve got to be on your game to keep control of your online business. That’s why we pulled out of the Amazon direct business. We still let our independent dealers sell through them, but I couldn’t control our prices on Amazon direct. They would tell us someone lowered the price and it forced them to match or go lower. And when I asked who it was, they said they couldn’t tell me that. We went through those cycles long enough.

Yet Zappos is quite different in that regard?

They have built their business with integrity and have continued with that approach to this day. They remain a full-price business, and that is a great format for us. It allows us to tell our story and not have it all be about trying to match the lowest price. We are growing quite nicely with them.

How do you envision retail evolving in the years ahead—can the independents survive as brand builders or will online shopping eventually swallow it all?

Online is going to be a major player, for sure. But I think good independents in the right locations who treat their customers the right way, will survive.

I get asked that question all the time and I say: Just keep doing what you do best to retain your customer loyalty. Do the right things—service them, communicate with them—and you can survive. You’ve survived worse.

Department stores, malls, big box discounters and now the Internet have all meant the death of the independent retailer. I just think there’s a reason for different distribution points to exist because the consumer isn’t a robot that only shops a certain way. It’s just a matter of going after what piece of the pie you want and finding unique ways to run that business and connect with your customer. There will always be adjustments to make, and there will be ones that get tossed to the side because they fail to do so.

Like now, for example, I think there are a growing number of consumers who want to shop local, although it’s not national. The bigger question, to me, is how will the department stores against the big box against the online dealers shake out?

Everyone is quick to write off independents when it may actually be one of these larger players?

Look at how the traffic is way off at malls. It’s just not what it used to >67

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DEFINING OUTDOOR: FALL ’16

Elements of Style

T

HE FASHION-MEETS-function story has been trending for several seasons now. It spans all footwear categories as consumers increasingly expect and demand comfort, performance and style in whatever shoes they purchase. But it’s in the outdoor category that the greatest gains and acceptance of the melding of style and substance has been achieved. Industry leaders such as Sorel, Merrell, Keen and Timberland have wrapped current fashion around their proven technologies, leading their products off the trail and onto city streets. The combination wouldn’t have taken hold if the shoes leaked or failed to keep wearers warm. Nor would they have appealed to a broader audience if the category’s general aesthetic had remained grounded in granola looks. In an era where all-day versatility is a coveted attribute by consumers, outdoor footwear brands are meeting the demand with new technologies (lightweight is a key trait) and widening the array of on-trend designs. The category has moved far beyond its earth tonesaturated and bulky hiker roots. Fall ’16 sees a host of brands mixing materials such as suedes, wools and leathers, as well as incorporating sleeker silhouettes and a range of heel heights. It’s a powerful fashion-meets-function story that spells opportunity for expansion within core markets as well as potential new audiences. The definition of outdoor footwear has become much broader, reflective of a macro lifestyle movement and mindset. —Judy Leand

Jambu: (Sub) Urban Adventure Rather than react to the outdoor market’s growing fashion-meetsfunction trend, Jambu plans to continue on the very trail it helped blaze with another fresh selection of stylish and versatile footwear for men and women. In fact, David Jonah, general manager of Vida

Group’s Jambu, JBU and J Sport brands, believes the market needs to catch up with consumers who continue to transiton away from utilitarian outdoor concepts in favor of lifestyle and après looks that Jambu has become known for. “Consumers are way ahead of retailers here and conventional buying processes no longer work, especially in outdoor fashion,” he says.

“Buyers call it a white space and we call it our wheelhouse. Consumers are driving urgently to this white space, and Jambu is positioned to fill it.”

Jambu will offer a variety of trend-

focused styles imbued with cold weather performance features for fall. Highlights include the women’s Mondo, a city-friendly hiking-inspired bootie that boasts a sophisticated mix of rich materials; the Williamsburg tall boot that combines a sleek quilted upper with a fleece-trimmed collar; and the Rosella chukka boot that has a leather and wool upper, a rubber outsole and a fleecy interior for added warmth.

To get its message across, Jambu will kick off an advertising campaign this year dubbed, “The Everyday (Sub)Urban Adventures.”

The gist of the message is that Jambu boots and shoes aren’t limited to mountain hikes and camp sites. Rather, Jambu can be quirky and cool, allowing consumers to embrace everyday adventures in comfortable, functional and stylish footwear. The initiative will include grassroots, social media, digital, and traditional print elements, and the company is now working with social sharing platform

Olapic. Jambu has also partnered with Travel + Leisure to provide consumers with a series of travel and packing-guide videos. Just as importantly, Jambu has signed its first-ever brand ambassadors, ultra marathon runners Mary Harvey and Hideki Kinoshita, both of whom view comfort as pure necessity in their off time.

“We are big believers in developing and executing thoughtful strategies to grow the Jambu brand in every way imaginable,” Jonah says.

“This ever-evolving singular goal focuses on communicating with consumers and potential consumers in the short- and long-term.”

Part of those efforts, of course, involves reaching consumers online. “The new commerce world is upon us, and Jambu will continue to evolve, adapt and appeal to how consumers shop,” he says, noting that a challenge going forward will be to align conventional retailer buying habits with consumers’ rapidly changing purchasing patterns.

Cougar: Fashion Lifestyle

Ecco: Millennials Mantra The focus for Ecco this fall is on outdoor lifestyle consumers, particularly Millennials. The Danish brand is working with different types of leathers and patterns that offer technical benefits along with stylish looks intended to appeal to the tastes of the millions of consumers born between the early ’80s and ’00s. These consumers, by and large, are trend-setters, highly influential and will soon account for the largest market segment.

What’s more, they love partaking in the great outdoors and seek versatility, performance and panache in their footwear when doing so.

“People want outdoor sport products that they can use 24 hours a day,” explains Tom Dixon, Ecco USA’s product manager.

“They want to go on a hike or trail run and then use the same product to meet their friends for coffee.”

To that end, Ecco’s latst collection includes tall and warmlined boots for women, with an emphasis on exposed fur and different materials for luxury appeal. “Women are much more influenced by the look of the boots or shoes,” Dixon notes. “Using different materials and colors gets their attention.” Dixon adds that this marks a big shift away from Ecco’s more masculine aesthetics of the past, which lacked appeal off the trails. “We want to offer women products that are functional but look great as well,” he states. Part of that effort includes expanding its transitional fall/winter business—what Dixon defines

as the “time between when it gets cold but before there’s snow on the ground.” Think waterproof yet sleeker and shorter silhouettes.

With respect to the men’s market, Dixon notes that functionality and versatility are key product attributes. Ecco’s research shows a continuing transition away from heavy, bulky hiking boots and into trail running shoes and light hiking styles—ones suitable for done-in-a-day activities. The fact is Millennials are more likely to dabble in the outdoors, be it in the form of shorter, group hikes rather than multi-day, solo backcountry treks. This segment also includes plenty of urban dwellers who want to look the part, but do not want the bulk of traditional hikers. “We have some great hiking and trekking boots where we use the Boa lacing technology. It has appeal across a wide age group and makes it really easy to adjust how the boot fits throughout the day or hike,” Dixon offers.

To help get the word out on Ecco’s new products and its Millennials market focus, the company is working with a variety of ambassadors via social media. It’s common sense to go where most Millenials eyes are looking on a daily basis. “It’s good to get our products on the feet of these influencers from a credibility standpoint as well as for product testing and feedback,” Dixon says. “We’ve had a lot of success to date and we have gotten great feedback from the outdoor community.”

You don’t need to invest in a trend forecasting service to confirm that today’s consumer increasingly seeks a blend of functionality and style. Boots have to be able to battle the elements while offering elements of style. It’s a one-two product demand that fortunately plays into a brand like Cougar’s strengths.

For decades, the Canadian brand has made its bones offering waterproof and winter-tough boots for the most harsh conditions while always maintaining a level of fashion sensibility. In fact, Cougar has positioned itself as a fashion/ lifestyle brand rather than strictly performance, according to Steve Sedlbauer, president. The unique positioning, he explains, not only reaches a broader audience, but the more style Cougar incorporates into its products, the less susceptible it is to benign weather conditions. [Think this past fall.] The performance benefits are there, but it’s hidden beneath plenty of style.

The brand’s Fall ’16 collection is no exception. “We’ve improved our waterproof technology, but the brand doesn’t really hype it,” Sedlbauer says. “It’s like an air bag in a car: It’s great to have, but you don’t need to see it.”

The hybrid strategy has been paying dividends. Sedlbauer reports that Cougar has doubled

its business over the past two years and expects continued growth in 2016. For now, domestic sales surpass those in the U.S., but Sedlbauer believes this market will take the lead in a couple of years. “There’s lots of space to grow in the U.S., and our goal is to expand distribution,” he says. “It’s not about quantity—we want to position the brand by being in the right retailers.”

In order to appeal to the right retailers, Cougar is focusing on two specific product initiatives for next fall. First is in step with a broader industry trend of offering shorter boots that feature combinations of leather and suede.

The new designs provide up-todate looks while also helping keep prices down. Suggested retail pricing for the collection ranges from $130 to $200.

Second is a fashion approach to rubber footwear (retail prices range from $50 to $75) that incorporates a variety of prints and colors. “Rubber is a lowcost option to leather boots that can give customers a particular look without the added expense,” Sedlbauer explains, adding, “It’s not just about buying rubber to wear in the rain—it’s affordable, cheerful fashion.”

Sedlebauer reports that the reaction from retailers to Cougar’s latest line at the FFANY show was excellent. “We had low expectations for the buyers’ appetite given the warm weather,” he says. “However, we were pleased by the reaction to the freshness of our product. Low booties on a range of heel heights and sole treatments were the hit with buyers.”

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DEFINING OUTDOOR: FALL ’16 Sorel: Double Play Sorel, a brand grounded in cold weather performance, continues its year-round product evolution in response to growing demand.

In fact, the company’s Fall ’16 collection is its largest to date— nearly double the size of the previous season. That’s what tends to happen after your boots, the Medina II in particular, become hot sellers in both outdoor specialty and boutique stores.

“Our extended fall line features styles that offer our take on market trends, including a variety of materials, boot heights and hardware details,” says Kimberly Barta, senior global marketing director. “We continue to expand our line with compelling designs, materials and heights that are all-day versatile, everyday relevant, all year long.” Barta adds, “Protection doesn’t have to

be devoid of style, and our fall collection takes this concept to the next level.”

For women, Sorel is offering a wide array of city-proof boots— notably the new Lolla and Addington collections—that are feminine yet rugged with a sleek silhouette, varied heel profiles and waterproof full-grain leathers.

The Lolla assortment comes in three heights, all of which blend equestrian style with feminine elegance. Key design elements include stacked heels, unique hardware and premium stitching.

The Addington collection comes in tall boot, lace-up, Chelsea, strap and mule versions—all of which boast premium waterproof leathers in rich, neutral tones. Also new for the season are the Conquest Wedge, Joanie Sweater and Lea Wedge that incorporate Sorel’s popular built-in wedge construction and feature premium leathers and

mixed materials. Sorel’s winter active lifestyle category is marked by lightweight constructions, bright color pops and range of temperature ratings. A highlight is the sporty new Cozy Carnival aimed at a younger audience.

On the men’s side, Sorel is evolving its fall offerings with more stylish, everyday boots that still offer classic utility. For example, the new Madson collection, designed for allday wear, consists of wingtip boots, chukkas and lace-up styles in rich colorways and waterproof leathers and suedes.

Barta cites Sorel’s unique design identity, craftsmanship, functionality, protection and durability as its points of differentiation and reasons for success. “For Fall ’16 and beyond, we will continue to drive expansion by providing bold, fashion-forward and highly functional footwear for all seasons,” she says.

Merrell: Doing What’s Natural Merrell, celebrating its 35th anniversary, is launching a number of new initiatives in 2016, chief among them a new brand platform called “Do What’s Natural.” The premise being that nothing should get in the way of enjoying the outdoors, and the brand wants to encourage consumers to experience nature on their own terms. As part of the strategy, rather than target specific demographics, Merrell will reach out to what it dubs young-at-heart adventurers.

“Whether old or young there is a large group of consumers who share the same values that have built Merrell’s existing consumer base,” explains Sue Harvey Brown, marketing manager. “We call them young-at-heart adventurers. They view going outside not as a challenge, but as a passion and a choice. [Going outdoors] is an opportunity to turn off all the distractions of everyday life and find pleasure in active outdoor adventure.”

To bring its new brand platform and key product stories to life, Merrell will roll out several marketing programs through print and digital advertising, brand ambassadors and strategic partnerships. These include being the official presenting partner for Tough Mudder and the new Tough Mudder Half mud run events and a partnership with Outdoor Nation 38 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

to create the Merrell Campus Ambassador Program to encourage outdoor recreation among college students.

Accordingly, Merrell’s Fall ’16 collection is intended to suit a wide array of consumer needs and activities. On the performance front, the new Vibram Arctic Grip outsole technology delivers the most advanced cold weather gripping system ever created by Vibram, providing three-times more traction on slippery, wet and icy surfaces. Exclusive to parent company Wolverine Worldwide through 2017, Vibram Arctic Grip will be featured in Merrell’s ICE+ Series, comprised of six patterns.

Each model will include a thermochromatic lug that turns from white to blue at 32 degrees Fahrenheit as an indicator for icy conditions.

Another performance initiative is the Moab FST, a multi-sport shoe that boasts a mesh and 3D-printed upper for protection and support.

In the lifestyle category, Merrell has moved the production of its classic Wilderness boot from Italy to its Michigan factories for added made-in-the-U.S.A. appeal.

Additionally, the brand is bringing back its ’80s-era Eagle/Solo collection of athletic hikers in a variety of original and new colorways. It will also launch

the Waitsfield Collection that was inspired by Waitsfield, VT, the birthplace of the brand.

The collection, featuring a nostalgic nod to the brand’s past in the form of its signature blue laces, is aimed at outdoor-minded city dwellers.

“We've built a brand known for its comfort, durability, design and versatility and want to continue to balance authentic performance with down-to-earth playfulness,” Harvey Brown says. “We want to continue making products that remove the barriers to enjoying the outdoors and, through this, we hope to continue to expand our consumer base to the next generation of young-atheart adventurers.”

QUICK HITS

Marquee product launches and marketing initiatives making noise in the outdoor world for Fall ’16. —J.L. ∆oulesusa.com

Asolo Special attention is being paid to the women’s category. The Celerus offers a lightweight yet stiffer platform for heavier pack weights and more serious terrain. Bruce Franks, general manager of Asolo USA, says the shoe skews younger and is aimed specifically at the Rocky Mountain state markets where support, protection and lighter weight are strong demands.

Franks is bullish on the women’s market potential overall, despite it still being somewhat of a challenge to get retailers to concentrate more on the segment. “The women’s market is there and can be vital,” he says.

Columbia Sportswear On tap is an array of women’s styles. The Heavenly collection of insulated boots feature premium fabrics, faux fur trims, contemporary silhouettes and tech benefits such as OmniHeat Thermal Reflective and Omni-Tech waterproof breathable linings. The Loveland collection features a snowboard-inspired aesthetic and includes a Techlite midsole for support and Omni-Grip multi-directional traction for stability. “People are moving away from traditional boots and seeking more lightweight and versatile options that can be worn in various environments,” notes Brad Bischel, senior manager of footwear, adding that women’s sales are not wholly weather dependent. “While a hard shell boot may have been appropriate for three months out of the year, our new lightweight, waterproof boots can be worn from the first signs of fall to early spring.”

Timberland In a continuation of its “On the Modern Trail” brand platform, the company will focus on style, craft and versatility in both its performance and casual assortments for Fall ’16. “Inspired by our original yellow boot, iconic silhouettes are re-imagined with subtle technology and style upgrades, while varying shades of brown born from the color wheat are incorporated throughout the line,” explains Greg Duffy, senior director of outdoor performance. The men’s Euro Hiker Shell Toe, for example, features a classic duck boot aesthetic updated with TimberDry eco-conscious waterproof membrane and SensorFlex comfort technology.

View the new collection at Outdoor Retailer, FN Platform, Sole Commerce and all leading footwear shows or contact us at: T: 646 710 4504 E : usa.showroom@joules.com

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DEFINING OUTDOOR: FALL ’16

Keen: Hybrid Fun Keen has cemented its place in the outdoor market by offering fun, casual products imbued with performance technologies. Aesthetically speaking, the brand leans toward the quirkier side: The Uneek hybrid sandal featuring an upper made out of two climbing cords and its bubble toe guard come to mind. But the brand also offers an array of traditional silhouettes that boast interesting material treatments and lively colors suitable for a variety of active adventures in outdoor and urban settings.

“Consumers are looking for lighter, faster, versatile and style-relevant products, and our Fall ’16 collection elevates these values to a new level,” says Nol Gerritse, director of product and retail marketing. “We have a stronger focus on the consumer than ever before, and key consumer insights blended with fresh ideas, innovation and original products are at the heart of our development process.”

Key initiatives include the aforementioned evolution of Uneek, the performance engineered A-Phlex hiker, the versatile and stylish Bridge City collection and the urban-inspired Citizen Keen. The brand is especially enthusiastic about the A-Phlex Mid (retail priced at $160) that’s designed to be light, fast and stylish, and features proprietary S3 technology to enhance structure, stability and suspension for all-around comfort.

The boot’s PHlexoSkeleton contoured TPU armor works with a lightweight mesh upper for protection, and a Keen.Dry waterproof/breathable membrane rounds out the package.

The new women’s Bridge City collection, inspired by the brand’s hometown of Portland, OR (a.k.a. Bridge City),

shows off an eclectic assortment of artisan textures, stitching and intricate detailing. For men, the Citizen Keen collection delivers premium detailing on a modern, street-savvy silhouette.

Meanwhile, the updated Uneek 02, which is 25 percent lighter than the original, has an enclosed heel panel and a Foam midsole with rubber pods in high-abrasion areas to minimize weight and increase comfort. It will be available in a variety of colorways for men, women and kids. In the winter boot category, Keen has expanded its American Built Performance Series led by the Durand Polar Shell (SRP $180) that provides 200 grams of Keen.Warm insulation and Keen.Dry waterproof protection.

As the outdoor lifestyle market continues to evolve and expand, Gerritse is optimistic about Keen’s and the industry’s prospects. “With energetic enthusiasts embracing outdoor experiences more than ever, we feel very positive about the outdoor industry going into 2016 and beyond,” he says. “The outdoors is coming into the city and, likewise, fresh generations of urbanites are developing a strong urge to get outside. It’s an exciting time with a lot of opportunity ahead of us.”

full-grain leathers and oily and distressed suedes figure prominently in the collection.

“We intend to move more towards outdoor lifestyle and performance and slightly away from trend and fashion,” says Carl Blakeslee, creative director, Woolrich Footwear. “Woolrich, the original outdoor company, was founded on the principles of real gear for real outdoorsmen and women. We intend to honor that foundation as we see a more sustainable and authentic position is better for the longevity and accessibility to the brand.” This means a slight shift in product direction and marketing message as well as a broader distribution strategy skewed more toward outdoor sporting goods and larger retailers that want to access this coveted American outdoor brand.

The strategy, Blakeslee believes, dovetails with consumers’ growing interest in quick and easy outdoor escapes with friends and family, be it “glamping” (car camping), backyard gettogethers and more traditional family camping trips that exemplify the casual outdoor lifestyle.

Blakeslee notes that these trends coupled with increasing concern for the environment and eco-friendly products are creating a “perfect storm” of sorts in the market. It presents an opportunity for traditional retailers to

embrace these types of more versatile products.

“Brick-and-mortar retail continues to struggle to find its new North Star. The state of consumer business is shifting more towards online, so these retailers are being forced to rethink the shopping experience,” Blakeslee reasons. “Weather instability and unpredictable seasonal patterns are playing havoc with retailers nationwide, so it’s more of a challenge than ever for brands to react to that with more versatile styling.”

Woolrich: Trail Mix Woolrich Footwear, a licensee of Portland Product Werks, burst onto the scene two years ago with a street-friendly outdoor aesthetic that blended classic silhouettes with fashionable materials and prints. The brand gave nod to its 180-year-old apparel roots and embraced touch points such as authenticity, heritage and quality while offering a fresh take on what outdoor footwear could look like. The brand will continue to emphasize its outdoor-meets-fashion vibe for Fall ’16, although with a more traditional trail tilt via its Euro-hiker-inspired Santiam, the Squatch and the Fully Wooly Slip and Lace models—all part of the brand’s Fully Wooly winter collection of insulated and waterproof all-weather boots.

Technically speaking, Woolrich designed its Fully Wooly Analog insulation to encapsulate the entire foot with a “wool blanket” on the inside, which is then wrapped in waterproof leather on the outside, providing an insulated, water-resistant frost barrier in cold conditions.

The combination of these two materials creates natural and sustainable insulation that breathes, dries quickly and wicks moisture—all organically and without the use of toxic or unnatural materials. Archival blanket wools featuring Civil War and Jacquard blanket patterns pulled from the Woolrich mill archives, and dramatic pull-up 40 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

QUICK HITS Hoka One One Anders Bergstrom, director of insight strategy, notes a highlight for fall is the Speed Instinct that features the new Pro2Lite protection and propulsion technology in which a soft heel density transitions into a firmer, more responsive forefoot. It makes the shoe both responsive and forgiving on the trail. Another noteworthy introduction is the Clifton 3, also part of the Speed category, that’s aimed at performance-oriented runners and is designed to appeal to a wider range of women due to its updated fit and style and the inclusion of Pro2lite technology.

Shoes you love to wear... at prices that make you smile

Oboz The company is rolling out a new insulated collection for men and women, featuring proprietary BDry breathable waterproof linings and 3M Thinsulate insulation. A highlight is the women’s Madison Insulated BDry which delivers a waterproof nubuck and textile upper, a zipper opening and double straps and touches of faux fur trim. A BFit Thermal insole that incorporates wool and mylar adds warmth, and winterspecific silica-infused rubber increases traction.

Mishmi Takin The new brand—the brainchild of M.I.T. graduate Kapil Dev Singh—is designed to breathe in wet environments and breathe faster in temperate conditions. Basically, moisture is an enemy in hot and cold conditions and the brand’s eVent Dry venting technology transfers sweat instantly though the membrane. The line also features slip-resistant Vibram outsoles and water-resistant outer fabrics. Additional details include a stretch heel that provides comfort for descents and an engraved shank and highprofile cupsole to lend stability on uneven surfaces.

Vasque A push toward technical winter hiking styles is a focus for Fall ’16. The Lost 40—named after the wild area in Minnesota—is a modern-day mukluk for extreme cold weather. It features a removable 7mm felted wool liner, 200g of 3M Thinsulate insulation and an internal midsole of Aerogel for warmth. A two-part zonal lacing system provides a snug fit and a Vibram Overland outsole with IceTrek compound delivers traction on frozen surfaces.

Exhibiting at PLATFORM-MAGIC, Las Vegas, Feb. 16-18 www.camtradeinc.com

Cougar: Fashion Lifestyle

Ecco: Millennials Mantra The focus for Ecco this fall is on outdoor lifestyle consumers, particularly Millennials. The Danish brand is working with different types of leathers and patterns that offer technical benefits along with stylish looks intended to appeal to the tastes of the millions of consumers born between the early ’80s and ’00s. These consumers, by and large, are trend-setters, highly influential and will soon account for the largest market segment.

What’s more, they love partaking in the great outdoors and seek versatility, performance and panache in their footwear when doing so.

“People want outdoor sport products that they can use 24 hours a day,” explains Tom Dixon, Ecco USA’s product manager.

“They want to go on a hike or trail run and then use the same product to meet their friends for coffee.”

To that end, Ecco’s latst collection includes tall and warmlined boots for women, with an emphasis on exposed fur and different materials for luxury appeal. “Women are much more influenced by the look of the boots or shoes,” Dixon notes. “Using different materials and colors gets their attention.” Dixon adds that this marks a big shift away from Ecco’s more masculine aesthetics of the past, which lacked appeal off the trails. “We want to offer women products that are functional but look great as well,” he states. Part of that effort includes expanding its transitional fall/winter business—what Dixon defines

as the “time between when it gets cold but before there’s snow on the ground.” Think waterproof yet sleeker and shorter silhouettes.

With respect to the men’s market, Dixon notes that functionality and versatility are key product attributes. Ecco’s research shows a continuing transition away from heavy, bulky hiking boots and into trail running shoes and light hiking styles—ones suitable for done-in-a-day activities. The fact is Millennials are more likely to dabble in the outdoors, be it in the form of shorter, group hikes rather than multi-day, solo backcountry treks. This segment also includes plenty of urban dwellers who want to look the part, but do not want the bulk of traditional hikers. “We have some great hiking and trekking boots where we use the Boa lacing technology. It has appeal across a wide age group and makes it really easy to adjust how the boot fits throughout the day or hike,” Dixon offers.

To help get the word out on Ecco’s new products and its Millennials market focus, the company is working with a variety of ambassadors via social media. It’s common sense to go where most Millenials eyes are looking on a daily basis. “It’s good to get our products on the feet of these influencers from a credibility standpoint as well as for product testing and feedback,” Dixon says. “We’ve had a lot of success to date and we have gotten great feedback from the outdoor community.”

You don’t need to invest in a trend forecasting service to confirm that today’s consumer increasingly seeks a blend of functionality and style. Boots have to be able to battle the elements while offering elements of style. It’s a one-two product demand that fortunately plays into a brand like Cougar’s strengths.

For decades, the Canadian brand has made its bones offering waterproof and winter-tough boots for the most harsh conditions while always maintaining a level of fashion sensibility. In fact, Cougar has positioned itself as a fashion/ lifestyle brand rather than strictly performance, according to Steve Sedlbauer, president. The unique positioning, he explains, not only reaches a broader audience, but the more style Cougar incorporates into its products, the less susceptible it is to benign weather conditions. [Think this past fall.] The performance benefits are there, but it’s hidden beneath plenty of style.

The brand’s Fall ’16 collection is no exception. “We’ve improved our waterproof technology, but the brand doesn’t really hype it,” Sedlbauer says. “It’s like an air bag in a car: It’s great to have, but you don’t need to see it.”

The hybrid strategy has been paying dividends. Sedlbauer reports that Cougar has doubled

its business over the past two years and expects continued growth in 2016. For now, domestic sales surpass those in the U.S., but Sedlbauer believes this market will take the lead in a couple of years. “There’s lots of space to grow in the U.S., and our goal is to expand distribution,” he says. “It’s not about quantity—we want to position the brand by being in the right retailers.”

In order to appeal to the right retailers, Cougar is focusing on two specific product initiatives for next fall. First is in step with a broader industry trend of offering shorter boots that feature combinations of leather and suede.

The new designs provide up-todate looks while also helping keep prices down. Suggested retail pricing for the collection ranges from $130 to $200.

Second is a fashion approach to rubber footwear (retail prices range from $50 to $75) that incorporates a variety of prints and colors. “Rubber is a lowcost option to leather boots that can give customers a particular look without the added expense,” Sedlbauer explains, adding, “It’s not just about buying rubber to wear in the rain—it’s affordable, cheerful fashion.”

Sedlebauer reports that the reaction from retailers to Cougar’s latest line at the FFANY show was excellent. “We had low expectations for the buyers’ appetite given the warm weather,” he says. “However, we were pleased by the reaction to the freshness of our product. Low booties on a range of heel heights and sole treatments were the hit with buyers.”

2016 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 37

DEFINING OUTDOOR: FALL ’16 Sorel: Double Play Sorel, a brand grounded in cold weather performance, continues its year-round product evolution in response to growing demand.

In fact, the company’s Fall ’16 collection is its largest to date— nearly double the size of the previous season. That’s what tends to happen after your boots, the Medina II in particular, become hot sellers in both outdoor specialty and boutique stores.

“Our extended fall line features styles that offer our take on market trends, including a variety of materials, boot heights and hardware details,” says Kimberly Barta, senior global marketing director. “We continue to expand our line with compelling designs, materials and heights that are all-day versatile, everyday relevant, all year long.” Barta adds, “Protection doesn’t have to

be devoid of style, and our fall collection takes this concept to the next level.”

For women, Sorel is offering a wide array of city-proof boots— notably the new Lolla and Addington collections—that are feminine yet rugged with a sleek silhouette, varied heel profiles and waterproof full-grain leathers.

The Lolla assortment comes in three heights, all of which blend equestrian style with feminine elegance. Key design elements include stacked heels, unique hardware and premium stitching.

The Addington collection comes in tall boot, lace-up, Chelsea, strap and mule versions—all of which boast premium waterproof leathers in rich, neutral tones. Also new for the season are the Conquest Wedge, Joanie Sweater and Lea Wedge that incorporate Sorel’s popular built-in wedge construction and feature premium leathers and

mixed materials. Sorel’s winter active lifestyle category is marked by lightweight constructions, bright color pops and range of temperature ratings. A highlight is the sporty new Cozy Carnival aimed at a younger audience.

On the men’s side, Sorel is evolving its fall offerings with more stylish, everyday boots that still offer classic utility. For example, the new Madson collection, designed for allday wear, consists of wingtip boots, chukkas and lace-up styles in rich colorways and waterproof leathers and suedes.

Barta cites Sorel’s unique design identity, craftsmanship, functionality, protection and durability as its points of differentiation and reasons for success. “For Fall ’16 and beyond, we will continue to drive expansion by providing bold, fashion-forward and highly functional footwear for all seasons,” she says.

Merrell: Doing What’s Natural Merrell, celebrating its 35th anniversary, is launching a number of new initiatives in 2016, chief among them a new brand platform called “Do What’s Natural.” The premise being that nothing should get in the way of enjoying the outdoors, and the brand wants to encourage consumers to experience nature on their own terms. As part of the strategy, rather than target specific demographics, Merrell will reach out to what it dubs young-at-heart adventurers.

“Whether old or young there is a large group of consumers who share the same values that have built Merrell’s existing consumer base,” explains Sue Harvey Brown, marketing manager. “We call them young-at-heart adventurers. They view going outside not as a challenge, but as a passion and a choice. [Going outdoors] is an opportunity to turn off all the distractions of everyday life and find pleasure in active outdoor adventure.”

To bring its new brand platform and key product stories to life, Merrell will roll out several marketing programs through print and digital advertising, brand ambassadors and strategic partnerships. These include being the official presenting partner for Tough Mudder and the new Tough Mudder Half mud run events and a partnership with Outdoor Nation 38 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

to create the Merrell Campus Ambassador Program to encourage outdoor recreation among college students.

Accordingly, Merrell’s Fall ’16 collection is intended to suit a wide array of consumer needs and activities. On the performance front, the new Vibram Arctic Grip outsole technology delivers the most advanced cold weather gripping system ever created by Vibram, providing three-times more traction on slippery, wet and icy surfaces. Exclusive to parent company Wolverine Worldwide through 2017, Vibram Arctic Grip will be featured in Merrell’s ICE+ Series, comprised of six patterns.

Each model will include a thermochromatic lug that turns from white to blue at 32 degrees Fahrenheit as an indicator for icy conditions.

Another performance initiative is the Moab FST, a multi-sport shoe that boasts a mesh and 3D-printed upper for protection and support.

In the lifestyle category, Merrell has moved the production of its classic Wilderness boot from Italy to its Michigan factories for added made-in-the-U.S.A. appeal.

Additionally, the brand is bringing back its ’80s-era Eagle/Solo collection of athletic hikers in a variety of original and new colorways. It will also launch

the Waitsfield Collection that was inspired by Waitsfield, VT, the birthplace of the brand.

The collection, featuring a nostalgic nod to the brand’s past in the form of its signature blue laces, is aimed at outdoor-minded city dwellers.

“We've built a brand known for its comfort, durability, design and versatility and want to continue to balance authentic performance with down-to-earth playfulness,” Harvey Brown says. “We want to continue making products that remove the barriers to enjoying the outdoors and, through this, we hope to continue to expand our consumer base to the next generation of young-atheart adventurers.”

QUICK HITS

Marquee product launches and marketing initiatives making noise in the outdoor world for Fall ’16. —J.L. ∆oulesusa.com

Asolo Special attention is being paid to the women’s category. The Celerus offers a lightweight yet stiffer platform for heavier pack weights and more serious terrain. Bruce Franks, general manager of Asolo USA, says the shoe skews younger and is aimed specifically at the Rocky Mountain state markets where support, protection and lighter weight are strong demands.

Franks is bullish on the women’s market potential overall, despite it still being somewhat of a challenge to get retailers to concentrate more on the segment. “The women’s market is there and can be vital,” he says.

Columbia Sportswear On tap is an array of women’s styles. The Heavenly collection of insulated boots feature premium fabrics, faux fur trims, contemporary silhouettes and tech benefits such as OmniHeat Thermal Reflective and Omni-Tech waterproof breathable linings. The Loveland collection features a snowboard-inspired aesthetic and includes a Techlite midsole for support and Omni-Grip multi-directional traction for stability. “People are moving away from traditional boots and seeking more lightweight and versatile options that can be worn in various environments,” notes Brad Bischel, senior manager of footwear, adding that women’s sales are not wholly weather dependent. “While a hard shell boot may have been appropriate for three months out of the year, our new lightweight, waterproof boots can be worn from the first signs of fall to early spring.”

Timberland In a continuation of its “On the Modern Trail” brand platform, the company will focus on style, craft and versatility in both its performance and casual assortments for Fall ’16. “Inspired by our original yellow boot, iconic silhouettes are re-imagined with subtle technology and style upgrades, while varying shades of brown born from the color wheat are incorporated throughout the line,” explains Greg Duffy, senior director of outdoor performance. The men’s Euro Hiker Shell Toe, for example, features a classic duck boot aesthetic updated with TimberDry eco-conscious waterproof membrane and SensorFlex comfort technology.

View the new collection at Outdoor Retailer, FN Platform, Sole Commerce and all leading footwear shows or contact us at: T: 646 710 4504 E : usa.showroom@joules.com

Footwear Plus Trade Ad 3.75"w x 9.75"h AW16 v2.indd 1

17/12/2015 11:35

DEFINING OUTDOOR: FALL ’16

Keen: Hybrid Fun Keen has cemented its place in the outdoor market by offering fun, casual products imbued with performance technologies. Aesthetically speaking, the brand leans toward the quirkier side: The Uneek hybrid sandal featuring an upper made out of two climbing cords and its bubble toe guard come to mind. But the brand also offers an array of traditional silhouettes that boast interesting material treatments and lively colors suitable for a variety of active adventures in outdoor and urban settings.

“Consumers are looking for lighter, faster, versatile and style-relevant products, and our Fall ’16 collection elevates these values to a new level,” says Nol Gerritse, director of product and retail marketing. “We have a stronger focus on the consumer than ever before, and key consumer insights blended with fresh ideas, innovation and original products are at the heart of our development process.”

Key initiatives include the aforementioned evolution of Uneek, the performance engineered A-Phlex hiker, the versatile and stylish Bridge City collection and the urban-inspired Citizen Keen. The brand is especially enthusiastic about the A-Phlex Mid (retail priced at $160) that’s designed to be light, fast and stylish, and features proprietary S3 technology to enhance structure, stability and suspension for all-around comfort.

The boot’s PHlexoSkeleton contoured TPU armor works with a lightweight mesh upper for protection, and a Keen.Dry waterproof/breathable membrane rounds out the package.

The new women’s Bridge City collection, inspired by the brand’s hometown of Portland, OR (a.k.a. Bridge City),

shows off an eclectic assortment of artisan textures, stitching and intricate detailing. For men, the Citizen Keen collection delivers premium detailing on a modern, street-savvy silhouette.

Meanwhile, the updated Uneek 02, which is 25 percent lighter than the original, has an enclosed heel panel and a Foam midsole with rubber pods in high-abrasion areas to minimize weight and increase comfort. It will be available in a variety of colorways for men, women and kids. In the winter boot category, Keen has expanded its American Built Performance Series led by the Durand Polar Shell (SRP $180) that provides 200 grams of Keen.Warm insulation and Keen.Dry waterproof protection.

As the outdoor lifestyle market continues to evolve and expand, Gerritse is optimistic about Keen’s and the industry’s prospects. “With energetic enthusiasts embracing outdoor experiences more than ever, we feel very positive about the outdoor industry going into 2016 and beyond,” he says. “The outdoors is coming into the city and, likewise, fresh generations of urbanites are developing a strong urge to get outside. It’s an exciting time with a lot of opportunity ahead of us.”

full-grain leathers and oily and distressed suedes figure prominently in the collection.

“We intend to move more towards outdoor lifestyle and performance and slightly away from trend and fashion,” says Carl Blakeslee, creative director, Woolrich Footwear. “Woolrich, the original outdoor company, was founded on the principles of real gear for real outdoorsmen and women. We intend to honor that foundation as we see a more sustainable and authentic position is better for the longevity and accessibility to the brand.” This means a slight shift in product direction and marketing message as well as a broader distribution strategy skewed more toward outdoor sporting goods and larger retailers that want to access this coveted American outdoor brand.

The strategy, Blakeslee believes, dovetails with consumers’ growing interest in quick and easy outdoor escapes with friends and family, be it “glamping” (car camping), backyard gettogethers and more traditional family camping trips that exemplify the casual outdoor lifestyle.

Blakeslee notes that these trends coupled with increasing concern for the environment and eco-friendly products are creating a “perfect storm” of sorts in the market. It presents an opportunity for traditional retailers to

embrace these types of more versatile products.

“Brick-and-mortar retail continues to struggle to find its new North Star. The state of consumer business is shifting more towards online, so these retailers are being forced to rethink the shopping experience,” Blakeslee reasons. “Weather instability and unpredictable seasonal patterns are playing havoc with retailers nationwide, so it’s more of a challenge than ever for brands to react to that with more versatile styling.”

Woolrich: Trail Mix Woolrich Footwear, a licensee of Portland Product Werks, burst onto the scene two years ago with a street-friendly outdoor aesthetic that blended classic silhouettes with fashionable materials and prints. The brand gave nod to its 180-year-old apparel roots and embraced touch points such as authenticity, heritage and quality while offering a fresh take on what outdoor footwear could look like. The brand will continue to emphasize its outdoor-meets-fashion vibe for Fall ’16, although with a more traditional trail tilt via its Euro-hiker-inspired Santiam, the Squatch and the Fully Wooly Slip and Lace models—all part of the brand’s Fully Wooly winter collection of insulated and waterproof all-weather boots.

Technically speaking, Woolrich designed its Fully Wooly Analog insulation to encapsulate the entire foot with a “wool blanket” on the inside, which is then wrapped in waterproof leather on the outside, providing an insulated, water-resistant frost barrier in cold conditions.

The combination of these two materials creates natural and sustainable insulation that breathes, dries quickly and wicks moisture—all organically and without the use of toxic or unnatural materials. Archival blanket wools featuring Civil War and Jacquard blanket patterns pulled from the Woolrich mill archives, and dramatic pull-up 40 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

QUICK HITS Hoka One One Anders Bergstrom, director of insight strategy, notes a highlight for fall is the Speed Instinct that features the new Pro2Lite protection and propulsion technology in which a soft heel density transitions into a firmer, more responsive forefoot. It makes the shoe both responsive and forgiving on the trail. Another noteworthy introduction is the Clifton 3, also part of the Speed category, that’s aimed at performance-oriented runners and is designed to appeal to a wider range of women due to its updated fit and style and the inclusion of Pro2lite technology.

Shoes you love to wear... at prices that make you smile

Oboz The company is rolling out a new insulated collection for men and women, featuring proprietary BDry breathable waterproof linings and 3M Thinsulate insulation. A highlight is the women’s Madison Insulated BDry which delivers a waterproof nubuck and textile upper, a zipper opening and double straps and touches of faux fur trim. A BFit Thermal insole that incorporates wool and mylar adds warmth, and winterspecific silica-infused rubber increases traction.

Mishmi Takin The new brand—the brainchild of M.I.T. graduate Kapil Dev Singh—is designed to breathe in wet environments and breathe faster in temperate conditions. Basically, moisture is an enemy in hot and cold conditions and the brand’s eVent Dry venting technology transfers sweat instantly though the membrane. The line also features slip-resistant Vibram outsoles and water-resistant outer fabrics. Additional details include a stretch heel that provides comfort for descents and an engraved shank and highprofile cupsole to lend stability on uneven surfaces.

Vasque A push toward technical winter hiking styles is a focus for Fall ’16. The Lost 40—named after the wild area in Minnesota—is a modern-day mukluk for extreme cold weather. It features a removable 7mm felted wool liner, 200g of 3M Thinsulate insulation and an internal midsole of Aerogel for warmth. A two-part zonal lacing system provides a snug fit and a Vibram Overland outsole with IceTrek compound delivers traction on frozen surfaces.

Exhibiting at PLATFORM-MAGIC, Las Vegas, Feb. 16-18 www.camtradeinc.com

W H AT ’S S E L L I N G

Outdoor Speciality

brands and styling, but they both are working for us.

What are your best-selling accessories? We do great with socks in particular. Darn Tough are our most popular. The company produces socks in Vermont, and they have a lifetime guarantee.

They have a lot of local pride, and they’re a quality product. They’re our number-two selling product in the shop.

How was the holiday sales season? Pretty good.

But this year we could definitely tell that it hadn’t snowed early in the Northeast. While the longer fall meant we sold more trail running shoes and we had a better sell-through on sandals, our winter-related items took a hit. Plus, last November we had an L.L. Bean open up shop right behind us, so that drew some extra foot traffic. So the sales are a little lower this season than last year.

n gR t o nE , VX TCHANGE O U T D O O R BGu rEl iA B u r l i n g t o n , Ve r m o n t T OUTDOOR GEAR Exchange, customers can expect to find the latest goods to outfit their next excursion, be it climbing, camping, biking, paddling or skiing. They can also expect to hear words like “steez” and “stoked” uttered by an expert staff of die-hard adventurers who live and breathe the products they sell. Footwear Buyer Melissa McNell is no exception—an avid climber, biker, swimmer and runner, she says the store’s home base is ideal for all outdoor activities.

“Vermont has so many natural resources, and the people who live here take advantage of it,” she muses.

Founded in 1995, Outdoor Gear Exchange has grown to carry one of the widest gear selections as well as a healthy range of leading footwear brands, including Keen, Merrell, Bogs, Salomon and Sanuk. The shop moved to a larger, 24,000-square-foot space five years ago and also has a successful web presence on gearx.com. With a sister resale boutique located in-store, the shop caters to a broad demographic of hardcore purists seeking the latest technologies as well as those who want to partake in the outdoors without breaking the bank in the process. “We’re unique in that we have a consignment section and also sell $700 mountaineering boots,” notes McNell.

“We can outfit anyone, from Girl and Boy Scouts just getting into camping up to someone who is really experienced and thinking about summiting Everest.” —Ann Loynd What are some of your best-selling shoe brands? Merrell and Keen are big, and Oboz has become a really big one for us, too.

Any new brands added into your mix that are doing well? Blundstone has done really well and Hoka One One. They’re kind of two opposite types of 42 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

Has the past year overall met your expectations? Yes, there have been no surprises. We’ve had a decent amount of growth overall. We’ve been in this location for five years now; we’ve finally grown into the space and are seeing sales stabilize. That’s all we expected.

How would you describe the overall mood of your customers? They’re psyched to be in our shop and are willing to spend. Our customer really values buying product from locally owned businesses. They come here because they want a selection, which we have, along with good customer service.

We also have four colleges near us, so we get a whole new crop of customers every four years.

What’s the most effective form of communicating with your audience?

We host events in the shop and, for footwear in particular, we host free runs all year round. We have vendors fly in demo shoes and allow customers to do a trail run. We recently brought in Icebug’s Anima-2 winter running shoes for a winter walking clinic—they have carbide studs on the soles for traction.

What’s is the biggest challenge facing your business and what are you doing to overcome it? We’re a little bit challenged with vendors not allowing us to sell on Amazon, which has hurt our online numbers. We’re combating the lost sales by buying less from those companies.

What’s your take on the growing sneaker boot movement? I think the sneaker boot is here to stay—it looks too good on the street!

What is your fastest-growing outdoor sport? Right now, it’s biking because that’s new to our shop. As far as looking at sales in more mature areas of the store, we’re seeing tremendous growth in climbing.

Any New Year’s resolutions? Keep doing what we’ve been doing for 20 years: outfitting customers with the best products possible and making sure that they know where to go to use them.

Uniting the Industry

Together We Are Better

You’re elected to attend the 22nd Annual USRA May Event, May 1-3, 2016 at The Wigwam in Litchfield Park, AZ. Footwear delegates will be united to plan for a bigger and brighter future.

You’ll learn from industry leaders how to become more popular with your customers, how to increase your constituents and earn their loyalty votes. The USRA May Event – a group of the people, for the people, by the people. Let’s work together – to become connected, informed and educated.

Retailers, Sales Reps & Vendors working together to unite the footwear community.

The USRA May Event ’16 agenda includes: « Leadership Caucus. Guidance by business pros with proven strategies for your success. « CPEDs earn education points. « Golf Tournament. It’s practically presidential! Our fairway deals are historic. « The Inner Circle Party where your voice will be heard! « Fun-Raising dinners, lunches, cocktails, “party” games! « Ballot of Brands. Leading manufacturers will attend to earn your favor with special sales incentives.

In 2016, USRA offers a unique combination of elements that proves we are all stronger working together rather than apart.

The 2016 USRA May Event provides networks of partnerships working together to grow and improve the footwear community.

hosted by

One Industry. One Goal. One Place.

Call or email the USRA office for Membership info or a May Event package Phone: (818) 703-6062 Email: Linda@USRAonline.org www.usraonline.org

Sharing information to make us ALL better.

We’re just not an industry – we are a community. Be a part of it!

Top to bottom: Distressed Harley-Davidson boot, Thomas Bates work boot, Teva hiker, vintagestyle Woolrich lace-up.

45

46 46

Left: Danner lace-up boots.

Middle, top to bottom: hiker

by Timberland, Rockport cap toe boot, moc-toe boot by Sebago. Right: Black Cat work boots with tan tongue.

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Th e t ra i l m e e ts the r u n wa y : c l a ss i c em b el l i s h m e n ts f u s e d w i th fe m i n i n e s i l ho u e t te s g i v e ri s e to the h a u te h i ke r.

1 I P U P H SB Q I Z C Z + B N J F * T B J B p 4 U Z M J O H C Z , J N +P I O T P O

Merrell lace-up hikers, floral jumper by Zara, model’s own sweater (around waist), vintage kneesocks, hat by Gap, OV US choker.

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Sorel wedge hiker, vintage flannel worn around waist, Zara shirt, vintage Levis.

Opposite page: Taos lace-up, olive high-heeled hiker

by Cougar, Woolrich heeled shootie.

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52

Azura hiker, Aritzia beanie, dress by Zara, OV US choker worn as bracelet, Cos socks.

Opposite page: H&M glitter sweater, OV US choker.

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Lace-up boots by Sebago, tank top by Rick Owens, Topshop trousers, plaid shirt from Zara, stylist’s own choker, vintage socks.

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Tan hikers by Danner, vintage Betsey Johnson dress, Zara sweater, kneesocks by Falke. Opposite page: Lust For Life hiker with blue laces, white outsole lace-up by Timberland, Sixty Seven fur-lined flatform boot.

Fashion Editors: Tara Anne Dalbow and Ann Loynd; stylist: Kim Johnson; hair and makeup: Abraham Sprinkle/Next Artists; model: Jessica D./Muse Management.

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S H O W C A S E FA L L ’ 1 6

Fashion meets function in this easy-to-walk-in wedge sole and waterproof suede bootie with leather detailing, soft faux fur collar and inside zipper that screams city-chic. Visit Cougar at FFANY and Platform.

www.cougarboots.com

Since its creation, Yaleet, distributor of Naot Footwear, has been guided

Camtrade Footwear showcases two very unique—and affordable—women’s

by two basic principles: We offer solutions and we promise trust. Our

footwear collections. Secret Celebrity features a wonderful selection of con-

superbly crafted products demonstrate our response to the compelling

temporary designs, while Soft Comfort offers fresh looks with super-

need for healthy, comfortable and fashionable footwear. At the same time, our unfailing commitment to integrity makes quality customer service our highest priority. Visit us at Outdoor Retailer #34158, FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market and BSTA.

soft cushioning, flexibility and comfort. Both collections are created to provide the consumer with a truly enjoyable footwear experience.

Visit us at FFANY and FN Platform.

www.camtradeinc.com

www.naot.com

Through wind, water and every type of terrain, Jambu boots and shoes turn comfort into joy and everyday experiences into adventures. Jambu knows

Summit is a contemporary col-

where it’s going by never forgetting where it began.

lection for women imported

Every product detail—like All-Terra traction out-

from Italy that provides afford-

soles, Memory Foam cushioning and waterproof

able luxury from the most elite

lining—works seamlessly to support everyday adven-

producers in the world. Explore Summit’s wide range of classic

turers. Visit us at FFANY, Outdoor Retailer, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

flats to designer-quality boots and pumps in Italian leather and suede for

www.jambu.com

day-to-night wear. Visit Summit at FFANY, FN Platform, Sole Commerce, The Atlanta Shoe Market, San Francisco TRU Show and BSTA.

www.summitwhitemountain.com

Headquartered in Rosenheim, Germany, Gabor is one of Europe’s leading global brands and widely recognized for its premium quality, fashion and Rocky continues to introduce innovative footwear for the job site with the launch of the Rocky Mobilite LT. The Fall ’16 collection is a lightweight but durable option with waterproof protection and slip-resistance along with unique all-day comfort features and a clean, modern look. Visit us at The Atlanta Shoe Market.

www.rockyboots.com

comfort footwear. From elegant, stylish and sophisticated to sporty and everyday casual, Gabor footwear is available in multiple widths and designed for all-day comfort. Visit us at FFANY, FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market and leading regional shows.

www.gabor.de

elegant snakeskin-print sandal with the right wedge. “Pixie” is a decorative chop-out, ghillie-tie wedge that is right on trend. Both are available in a large range of sizes and widths—N, M, W and WW; 5 to 12. Visit us at FN Platform and all regional shows.

Seven Dials: London-inspired “footwear with a voice” that has you covered from edge to elegance. Tune into the Fall ’16 collection, featuring the return of the mod boot—borrowed from the boys— and a flashback to the swinging ’60s and punk-inspired styles.

www.bellavitashoes.com

Show us your #7DialsStyle and find us at FFANY, FN Platform and The Atlanta Shoe Market and regional shows.

www.7dialsshoes.com/ shoe-shows

Wolky is at its all-time best! The latest collections satisfy the needs of women spanning a range of demographics that not only value fashion Chooka’s reflective boots are new for Fall ’16!

Illuminating reflective technology allows the wearer to be seen in the dark. It’s truly a fashionable and functional boot, available for women and kids in a variety of colors and styles. Visit us at Outdoor Retailer #34172, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

www.chookaboot.com

and comfort, but well-made quality footwear. It’s what’s inside that makes the difference, and what sets Wolky apart.

This is immediately apparent when a woman slips her foot into a Wolky shoe. Wolky proud to present its finest efforts for Fall ’16 at FFANY, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

www.wolky.com

Cougar boots are what women on the runways wear to the runways. The Fall/Winter ’16 collection is designed for Tamaris, the best-known shoe brand in Europe, officially launched in the U.S. in 2015. Tamaris combines premium quality, excellent comfort and fit, and an exceptional price/performance ratio. The Tora bootie 25361 in rich nubuck leather features ANTIshokk heel technology. It is just one of the many exceptionally stylish and comfortable shoes in the line. Visit us at FN Platform, FFANY, The Atlanta Shoe Market and all leading regional shows.

www.tamaris.us

women who want to enjoy all types of weather, all-day long.

Guaranteed waterproof and guaranteed to make a statement.

Get into outside! Visit us at FFANY, FN Platform, Outdoor Retailer and regional shows.

www.cougarboots.com

S H O W C A S E FA L L ’ 1 6

Bella Vita is an elegant line of fine footwear. For Spring ’16, the “Isla” is an

S H O W C A S E FA L L ’ 1 6

Girls love to shine bright in Skechers Twinkle Toes Shuffles: Sweetheart Sole metallic hi-tops. Quilted stitching and a jeweled toe cap with flashing multicolored lights add extra fun and fashion to this Twinkle Toes style. Preview the entire SKECHERS Kids collection at FN Platform.

The Blue Collar collection features lightweight, versatile work boots designed to

www.sketchers.com

provide the comfort expected from young workers while maintaining the durability and reliability expected from Georgia Boot. A new comfort feature, the ERGO-FIT safety toe, allows for more freedom of movement inside the toe box.

Visit us at The Atlanta Shoe Market.

www.georgiaboot.com

Brilliantly British Style: from muddy

Since Earth Brands began

country lanes to stylish city streets,

making shoes in the

our colorful rain boots have been

1970s, every style is

making a splash across the pond for

inspired by the founder’s

years. For women’s and children’s

belief that true comfort

rain boots with a twist, look no fur-

and wellness should be part of everyday living—and it starts

ther. Visit us at Outdoor Retailer,

from the ground up. Today, Earth is a versatile collection of

Dallas STRUT, FN Platform,

contemporary tailored and casual styles with superior cush-

The Atlanta Shoe Market

ioned footbeds, made for real women’s real lives. Visit us at

nd Sole Commerce.

FFANY, The Atlanta Show Market and FN Platform.

www.joules.com

www.earthbrands.com

Restricted Footwear

Take on winter in style and comfort! The

styles focus on edgy

new Berries Boots for Fall ’16 is a unique

design elements with

collection that adds style, sophistication

eye-catching details for

and functionality to every cold-weather

the fashion-forward consumer. Unique silhouettes and styles appeal to a broad range of consumers. The smart

take on the harshest of winters, Berries Boots are made with neoprene linings, faux fur and a sealed seam construction. The Lynco orthotic

shoppers who like to

footbed provides the ultimate support for your

combine fashion and

arches, while the memory foam offers pillow-soft

comfort with quality at a

cushioning to help you stay healthy and

great price always look to

comfortable for those long winter days!

Restricted for the latest shoe inspirations! Visit us at FFANY, The Atlanta Shoe Market, FN Platform, Atlanta Apparel, Windy City Shoe Show, Sallas STRUT and other regional shows.

www.restrictedshoes.com 60

wardrobe. Designed with the most innovative waterproofing technology to

Visit us at Outdoor Retailer, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

www.aetrex.com

TO EARTH CHAM PION GETS DOWN

LY TORON TO • GARY G ’16 • THIS JUST IN : TOTAL ING COMF ORT : SPRIN NG MOVE S • DEFIN • MUNR O & CO. MAKI E-LAUNCH • ACE YOUR SPACE E OX S E T F O R U . S . R NYC’S STOR Y: EMBR WEARABLE ART G • CHECK OUT THIS YS U G R O F E L P STA THE NEW SUMMER

FALL ’16 BOOTS PREVI EW

Lost in the flood: Many South Carolinians are in need of footwear and clothing donations.

Easy Street has been recognized as an innova-

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tor in all categories of comfort footwear for more than 50 years. The “Joelle and “Jana� are a key part of Easy Street’s newest col-

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THE NEW TRAIL MIX

Designers ng to a ’70s Vibe for Spri

lection, which features unique comfort innovations such as one-touch adjustable straps and ultra-light padded footbeds. In stock for Spring ’16, the line is available

LUME MP UP THE VO : DESIGNERS PU LET’S DANCE

in sizes and widths M, W and WW; 5 to 12. Visit us at FN Platform and all regional shows.

www.easystreetshoes.com

Step & Stride, a historically rich brand providing fashionable kids shoes at a great value, is being reintroduced into the marketplace for Fall

Soles4Souls Rallying Call to Aid South Carolina Flood Victims ’16 by Vida Shoes. Focusing on wellness, comfort and fit, each

product in this complete line is

designed with a modern twist on

classic styling. Visit us at the Renaissance

during FN Platform, FFANY, The Atlanta

Shoe Market, KSA, BTSA, Children’s Great South Carolina is a high SOLES4SOULS (S4S) IS Event and Michigan priority for us.� answering a call forShoe helpMarket. in www.vidagroup.com Tiffany Johnson, S4S outSouth Carolina after catastrophreach coordinator, takes this ic flooding ravaged the state relief effort personally. She recently. Record rainfall—more was raised in one of the hardthan 25 inches—forced thouest hit areas and her mother sands from their homes and still lives there. “As soon as we 20 counties have been declared realized the scope of this, I was federal disasters. While 17 peoon the phone talking with variple lost their lives, tens of thouous agencies in South Carolina sands more are without power about how and when we could and water, and many others lost help,� she says, noting one of all of their belongings. her mother’s co-workers lost In response, S4S is issuing a everything. “My mother asked plea to footwear retailers and Demi Lovato loves her Skechers with colorful comfort.

Express if we could put together a few manufactures toyour assist in a own #SkechersDemiStyle in Flex Appeal—Cosmic Rays pairs of shoes for her co-worker, relief mission. The non-profit is sneakers from Skechers Sport. With a cushioned Memory Foam partnering with local emergency so I sent casual, dress and teninsole, this lightweight shoe is perfect for athletic or street style. nis shoes,� Johnson says, adding responders in order to provide at FN Platform, FFANY, The Atlanta such a small, but meaningshoes and clothing to those in Visit usthat Shoe Market and regional to preview ful gesture, had an shows enormous need. “We are asking any and latest Skechers collections. impact.the “My mom brought the all retailers or manufacturbox of shoeswww.skechers.com to work and her ers to donate boots, athletic co-worker was overcome with and children’s footwear,� says emotion,� she says.

Brian Granfors, creative director of S4S. Adds CEO Buddy To donate shoes and clothing Teaster: “Responding to natural for South Carolina flood victims disasters has been part of the or make a monetary donation to Soles4Souls mission from the S4S, contact Pattie Graben at 615very beginning and helping 541-7007 or pattieg@soles4souls. people get back on their feet in org. —Laurie Cone

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Feel free to contact us anytime at circulation@9threads.com or (440) 871-1300 with your questions. june 2008 • footwearplusmagazine.com 51

EDITOR’S PICKS

Oysby

Seven Dials

D E S I G N E R C H AT

Coolway

LAURA STUCKI

62 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

PIECE WORK

B oh o mee ts So h o i n c h ic suede patc hwo rk bo oti es .

What is it about cowboy boots? When I feel a handmade cowboy boot, I am in awe of the hours, days and months involved in its making. Its creation is methodical, requiring dedication and perseverance, which I think is lost in mass production. It also has a symbolic meaning for me: It is a metaphor for our ancestors’ drive to better their lives.

Who is your target customer? She is strong, whether by helping her community or leading a company. The age range can run from 28 to 65, depending on her sense of achievement, style and confidence.

Any famous people you’d like to see wearing your shoes? It would be a combination of a young Margaret Thatcher and Audrey Hepburn with Billie Holiday thrown in for style and soul. As far as today, I want to see Condoleezza Rice, Marissa Mayer of Yahoo, Arianna Huffington and Sheryl Sandberg of Facebook wearing Moses Grace.

How has the reception from buyers been to your debut? The reaction has been very enthusiastic, especially from Europeans. My growth strategy is not driven by volume. It’s more important that my shoes land in the right hands or, better, on the right feet.

If you could change one thing about the current fashion climate, what would it be? I would bring more quality back into fashion. Craftsmanship definitely has a place in the world, and I think we will see more of it as quality and sustainability go hand-in-hand.

Where do you like to shop? I’ve started shopping online at Yoox. Shopbop is good, too. I’m also saving to have some custom boots done in Texas!

Who is your favorite designer?

Alexander Wang—he shares my love of black. He has always been cutting-edge in footwear; it’s a masculine style that a female can wear and make her own.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T I M J O N E S

LAURA STUCKI FOUND inspiration for her line, Moses Grace, from several seemingly unrelated (and arguably unusual) sources: vintage cowboy boots, a graveyard, her black Porsche and a U.S. military tank. Confused?

Well, Stucki can explain.

It all began in Austin, TX. That’s where the designer fell in love with shoes by way of vintage cowboy boots.

“I began buying some, taking them apart and redesigning them,” she says. Taking it a step further—pun intended—she visited local boot makers to observe their work and see the types of tools and leather they were using. Stucki was hooked and decided to attend the Shoe School in Port Townsend, WA, where she learned the fundamentals of shoemaking. After relocating to the New York area, she continued her studies at Manhattan’s Jewish Community Center, attending shoe patternmaking classes. After two years of studying, Stucki launched Moses Grace this year.

As for the unique name, Stucki struggled to come up with the perfect moniker. But it wasn’t until she was walking through a graveyard in Maine that she stumbled upon a gravestone marked: “Moses Grace, died October 15, 1888.” The name struck her, and she decided to research the man, who was an early settler with a wife and four daughters and, in spite of the hardships of the 1800s, he lived a long life. “It is my hope that my shoes incorporate his strength and endurance,” Stucki offers.

For her debut collection, Stucki looked no further than her driveway for inspiration. “It was based off of my black Porsche—its timeless beauty, sleekness, ingenuity and speed,” she muses. Her foundation silhouette is a chunky rounded-heel pump, but styles vary with intricate Western-inspired detailing including fringe, tassels, straps, buckles and inlays—all in the finest-quality black leather. Stucki makes all of her samples in the U.S. (and scouts New York’s leather shops for her material) before taking them to Italy where they are manufactured in small batches.

Stucki says the inspiration for Fall ’16 comes from the M1 Abrams battle tank. “Since my college-aged son was always interested in military design, I have been looking at tanks for years,” she explains, noting the collection will expand beyond black to include gray and red options. “I love the lines of the tank, and its power and agility.” —Laurie Cone

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AT L A N TA S H O E M A R K E T.C O M

Service to airport every hour from 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. $25* one way (advance reservations only). $50* round trip (advance reservations only).

UPCLOSE COMFORT

Everyday Expedition Teva’s new collections outfit year-round adventurers.

Man’s World A mainstay in women’s, Dansko to stake its claim in men’s this fall.

“WE ASKED OURSELVES quite a bit: ‘Do we have the right to expand into the men’s market?’” notes Dansko Marketing Director Matt DeWitte about the brand’s foray into men’s for Fall ’16. After careful planning, preliminary lines and numerous discussions with retailers, he reports the answer is overwhelmingly yes. For starters, DeWitte cites the brand’s 25-year run of success in the women’s business coupled with a strong presence in the occupational shoe market as bolstering the management team’s confidence that the brand has the elasticity and strength to cross over. What’s more, research showed that the Dansko name wasn’t gender specific, i.e. it didn’t just read “women’s brand.”

Along those lines, DeWitte stresses that the men’s collection aims to offer a true point of differentiation in the marketplace. “We want to provide the male customer with what we consider to be an upgrade from what is currently available to them,” he explains. The debut collections, dubbed Jasper and Vineyard, consist of business- and weekend-casual stories, respectively. Features include a superior comfort footbed, welt construction, premium leathers and slip-resistant outsoles. “The great value we offer is that comfort and style all in one,” he adds, noting the target Dansko man is defined more by a life stage rather than traditional forms like age and geography. He’s a professional who works in a business-casual environment and most likely a family man, DeWitte offers. He’s investment-minded, tech-savvy and earns a high enough income to afford the premium price range of $150 to $195. DeWitte is also careful to note that this customer is not exclusively the husband or boyfriend of Dansko’s female fans. “We have just as much of an opportunity to reach a male consumer even if their wife has not had an experience with Dansko,” he says, adding that the line will enable the brand to expand into new retail locations. Specifically, he says Dansko is looking for new opportunities in comfort specialty stores as well as premium boutiques with its men’s collection.

For the debut, DeWitte says the goal is to first build awareness among the trade that Dansko has entered the men’s game, as well as start the conversation with consumers as to why these shoes will fit their lifestyle needs. DeWitte says going forward the collections will expand outward from their business- and weekend-casual roots to include a wide range of style options. And whatver the style, he assures, the comfort story will remain paramount. “Whether it’s an upscale look or something to wear on the weekends, the shoes will always have a similar ride for comfort,” DeWitte says. —Ann Loynd 64 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

ALASTAIR HUMPHREYS—BRITISH adventurer, author and motivational speaker—may have taken a four-year bicycle trek around the world, but it was a series of local expeditions in his native U.K. that garnered him fame and a nod from National Geographic as Adventurer of the Year in 2012. Humphreys coined the term “microadventures” to describe his short, local journeys. Turns out he was onto something big as people have been jumping on the microadventures bandwagon ever since.

Teva, a division of Deckers Brands, has taken notice of the macro micro movement as well. Lorie Pointer, director of product and design, tags the movement as a “cultural shift” and one that’s reflected in Teva’s expanded Fall ’16 collection that retains its outdoor performance elements while broadening the design appeal. “We’re seeing consumers embracing the outdoors, but they’re not taking it so seriously,” Pointer explains. “It’s a short hike, or a road trip—you don’t have to plan for a week. For footwear, they’re looking for something with just enough technology to be functional, but it has to be stylish.”

Enter Teva’s new men’s and women’s Arrowood collection. Pointer says the shoes are “at home on the trail and in the city.” The line features versatile and comfortable attributes like waterproof membranes and signature Float-Lite technology (an ultra-lightweight construction featured in the brand’s sandals this spring) coupled with on-trend styling and topped off by rich leathers. “The low version makes a great travel shoe because it’s so lightweight and has allday comfort,” Pointer notes.

Building upon its well-received De La Vina fashion boot for women introduced last season, Teva is expanding its boots offering for fall. The brand will introduce the stacked-heel Foxy boot in two new silhouettes: a clog and a tall shaft version. While Arrowood is targeted at specialty outdoor and select independent accounts, Pointer says the Foxy boot package is intended for broader distribution, such as Nordstrom and Dillards as well as stylish boutiques. She notes that while most Teva consumers are introduced to the brand through its sandals, the fact is “they wear shoes year round” and that spells opportunity. “We have permission from our customers to offer other types of footwear,” Pointer says. “They’ve shown us that with the success of our women’s boots.” She adds that while Teva respects its performance heritage, the brand is trying to attract new consumers and is shying away from overly technical products (like specialty biking shoes of the past). “We aren’t changing the direction of our brand, rather broadening the lens,” Pointer explains.

“Consumers want newness in their life and to express their individuality.” —A.L.

continued from page 10/Balancing Act view in-store inventory and expedited delivery are quickly becoming a baseline expectation of doing business today. Our Infinite Ugg solution has been one of our most successful. Infinite Ugg grants customers access to an ‘endless aisle’ of merchandise not available in the store. This give us the opportunity to create smaller, more intimate store experiences while still delivering revenue traditionally seen from our larger doors.

Solutions and services like this, as well as unique customer experiences, such as customization, are quickly becoming the new retail standard. In the not-too-distant future, they’ll be a requirement to remain competitive.

that establish a unique and focused point of view, understand their customer and strive to build a relationship beyond a sale will see results. Today there are countless resources available to engage with customers before they ever set foot into a store. For example: • Have an online presence that is optimized for mobile, making it easy for customers to get the information they need.

• Use social media channels that are right for your customer. Be selective.

• Set a gold standard for service and deliver. Customers have endless choices, so help them choose you by offering an experience unlike any other.

Do we still have a long way to go collectively in terms of upgrading the in-store experience?

Yes. It’s increasingly difficult for retailers to stay competitive in today’s market. We all have to move faster to stay competitive because mobile technology is speeding everything up. The cost of real estate is the major burden for traditional retailers. Margins are razor thin and it becomes extremely difficult to reinvest in the business. I’m not suggesting that the solution is neatly packaged in a simple ‘upgrade’ of the in-store experience. In my view, service and specialization are as important as in-store experience.

Tomorrow’s retail environment will be led by the customer, and the retailers who win will be the ones that deliver superior service and best-in-class experiences. A human touch and a focused point of view (know what you stand for) will separate the winners from the losers. Retailers who continue to try to be everything to everyone in order to ‘not miss a sale’ will ultimately fail as they are squeezed between the giant value operators and giant premium players.

What should a retailer’s mindset be heading into this year?

In this fast-paced, quickly evolving retail landscape, I believe that success will follow if retailers work on two key areas of their business: focus and service. In an age where retailers are becoming brands themselves, it’s important to have a point of view. Retailers without clear positioning suffer. Focus on brands that deliver the highest level of return and that have a strategy and story to tell. Commit to fewer and better brands. There are retailers that offer so many brands that they end up splitting sales and often cut margins.

With respect to service, deliver a personalized, best-in-class level to customers. Understand that the sale is really only the start of the relationship with the consumer, so choosing strong brands that help you engage with your customers is vital. Unlike online channels, brick-and-mortar has the opportunity to bring brand stories to life in a physical space. This is one of the reasons Ugg is so compelling. The warmth and comfort of Ugg so easily transitions into a physical, personal experience in-store.

What are some affordable ways retailers can upgrade their experience?

Most consumers, regardless of age, are savvy and armed with their own mobile devices. When used in-store, these devices connect customers to endless influences, from peer reviews to price comparisons to expanded selections. Retailers

What might the shoe store as we now know it look like in 10 years?

That decision is in the hands of our customers. In the meantime, we’ll be listening and engaging with them in ways that will make our brand experience appealing and relevant to their needs. •

E - B E AT

BUYER CHAT

Louise Dirks

Shopping Network Pixlee turns social media trends into online catalogs.

WORD OF MOUTH is a powerful marketing tool that, thanks to the power of social media, has become exponentially stronger. For starters, the definition of closeness, according to a recent Forbes article, has dramatically expanded as social media allows consumers to instantly find and follow others who share similar tastes and preferences—even if they’d never met or ever will. Word of a hot new shoe or brand, for example, can spread like wildfire among “friends” around the world in minutes as opposed to months.

However, culling, editing and using

Kenneth Cole’s #KCStyle gallery, featured on its homepage.

social media–driven word of mouth (i.e. user-generated content) to one’s advantage can be a daunting task for even the most savvy of retailers. For example, Instagram has more than 400 million daily users worldwide uploading a mind-boggling 58 million photos a day. How does one make sense of it all and, more specifically, garner photo rights and help turn what’s trending into potential sales?

Enter Pixlee and its Shoppable Galleries. After collecting content through what Pixlee CEO Kyle Wong calls “the general conversation” on social media, the company creates galleries that retailers can use on their

websites, mobile apps or for in-store demos. “We manage the collection and permission rights and distribute the content across digital properties, and we also provide insight on who your most passionate customers are,” Wong explains, noting that the content is easily uploaded and automatically links to individual shopping pages. “It allows marketing managers to update regularly and reflect timely events without a web developer,” Wong says. “For example, if it’s cold and rainy in San Francisco, a retailer could emphasize rain boots on their site.”

Heavy hitters like Ugg and Converse are current Pixlee clients, and Wong says wholesalers and retailers of any size can take advantage of its services.

Pixlee offers a subscription-based, pay-as-you-go pricing structure that increases with the scope. Posting galleries only on a website is less expensive than also on an email app, mobile platform, etc. Wong says the cost of content packages begins “in the five figures” which, he adds, is more than worth it. “Pixlee customers are seeing triple-digit ROI from their investments,” he maintains.

One of the reasons for Pixlee’s strong returns, Wong says, is due to the fact that consumers are doing more research than ever when making shoe purchases. Specifically, the ability to research on social media enables shoppers to see how others are wearing a particular style. It’s a great insight and validation tool. And Pixlee’s data reveals that 40 percent of e-commerce sales interact with usergenerated content. Of that group, 50 percent are more likely to buy. “There’s a higher average selling price with regards to shoes, so there’s a longer consideration phase by shoppers,” Wong explains. “Advocacy and wordof-mouth marketing are fundamental, and our customer-generated stories are one of the best ways to articulate the value of a brand.” —Ann Loynd

66 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

Gravitypope

IN 1990, GRAVITYPOPE founder and buyer Louise Dirks opened her first footwear boutique in Edmonton, Alberta. Flash forward 25 years and Dirks is the owner of six shoe/ apparel stores across Canada and a booming website, gravitypope.com. Delivering worldwide, the site boasts an enormous span of product equaling thousands of SKUs for women, men and children. “Because we have entire sport and comfort collections, we cater to young and old alike,” notes Dirks.

By focusing on unique, high-quality brands, Gravitypope manages to set itself apart from the crowd of massive online retailers. It’s a finely curated mix of modern lifestyle—spanning sporty and comfort staples from the likes of Adidas, Birkenstock, Converse, Clarks, Vans and Ugg alongside edgier brands like Common Projects, Punto Pigro and Isabel Marant, to cite a few. Above all, Dirks looks for pieces with longevity: “We should all be paying attention to the fact that this world is full of disposable product, and that’s not great for the environment or for us,” she says. —A.L. What key trends/silhouettes are you seeing for Fall ’16? A giant trend would be the category of sneakers. There’s a ton of variety, and all designers seem to be jumping on the bandwagon, whether it’s a slip-on version like Vans or a lace-up that’s a form of the Common Projects sneaker. The other trend that has a lot of legs is ankle boots, gusseted styles in particular. Another trend I see happening again is the Paraboot (think classic alpine hiker look), which was big in the ’90s. This season Church’s did a beautiful version—we sold out!

Any trends on the way out? We’re still not really seeing sales in knee-high boots. There are little pockets where we still sell them, but it’s not half as trendy as sneakers or low ankle boots. We still carry some by Fiorentini + Baker and Trippen, but we haven’t sold them as easily as in past seasons. But I guess I never want to see anything go out…That’s when I start wearing a style, personally— when it’s out of popularity.

What’s your buying philosophy? I like to buy based on quality and styling. I’m not really a trend buyer; I prefer to buy product that is more unique and well made, or handcrafted. Unfortunately we live in a world where people want trends and follow them intensively, but I try to buy them in a more unique way—never a super labeled or logoed product. I try to be true to my own philosophy of fashion: You don’t need to throw it away after a season. My buying philosophy is longevity. I like to buy things that customers will wear and appreciate for many seasons because of the design and quality. For me, fashion is about maintaining a closet full of beautifully made pieces that can be worn and valued for many, many years.

What are some of your favorite brands/designers? Moma, Officine Creative, Marsèll, Church’s, Trippen, Cydwoq, Bibliotek, Tracey Neuls, Coclico…My favorite designers are those who handcraft and really think about the design and where it’s made. It’s nice to see people that try to differentiate themselves and stay true to their own vision. I love the approach of an artisan—someone who really pays attention to detail, craftsmanship and creativity.

O&A

continued from page 19 be. Those department anchors are finding it more difficult to compete. Where does that all wash out? I think the DSW, Shoe Carnival and Famous Footwear formats are competing more with Macy’s, Bon Ton, Belk, etc. They are carrying similar brands at low prices in local markets that are not necessarily located in malls. They have become destination formats where customers can pretty much find everything they need. That’s a real challenge for department stores.

If you were opening a store today would you do so in a mall?

Absolutely not. Who would? Even if I were to open Earth stores, which at the moment we are not planning on doing, I wouldn’t do it in a mall. Even if I was a big national brand, I’m not sure I’d look to open stores in malls. Lifestyle centers, maybe. Thriving downtown areas, more likely. Areas like Naperville, IL, for example, where you have this nice setting as a destination point. Those are the kind of “shop local” areas that I would look into, not malls anchored by department stores.

Can malls be revitalized?

I’m not sure. I’m interested in seeing how it shakes out because if department stores start running into trouble, it opens up an area for boutique-type independents that can feed off of that lack of shopping. Within a local market, that could create some nice opportunities.

certain level of value and we can still make some money. That formula is the same whether it’s your promotional or full-price brand. That’s why I believe it really requires building strong relationships with the people you are doing business with and saying no to those you can’t trust. You just have to be careful because the consumer, as you mentioned, has been trained on price and the more you let your brand into that world, the more difficult it is to control what your vision is for your brand.

It’s not easy.

Not at all because consumers today believe they can find whatever it is they are looking at for a better price somewhere else. The technology gives them that ability. So you have to try and prevent that brand degradation from happening by managing your pricing as best as you can. Everybody has their MAP policies in this regard, but that creates its own world of expenses, time and effort. And there are loopholes. In some instances, you just have to forego volume to protect the integrity of your brands. We want our brands—the design, comfort, quality and story—to be the reasons why people choose to buy and not just the price.

“We want our brands—the design, comfort, quality and story—to be the reasons why people choose to buy and not just the price.”

Meanwhile, department stores are ramping up off-price formats, be it Nordstrom Rack, Find by Lord & Taylor and Macy’s Backstage. It’s an off-price format by retailers that have already been doing plenty of off-price selling. That’s one reason why I believe our $50 million to $100 million growth phase will be a much more precarious path than it was when I was with Clarks. Back then, it was a much clearer path of how to go about growing and protecting your brands.

We could build relationships and develop a strategy because retailers weren’t competing as much as they are today. Now you really have to wary. The volume is there, if you want it.

If you get the formula right to deal on price with these big players, it’s fairly quick that they can drive volume. But it’s how they are driving that volume and what it is doing to your brand in the process. How do you protect the integrity of your brand? That’s a tricky part in trying to go from $50 to $100 million in size.

It slows the growth down a bit if you want to create the right image, because we won’t take the approach that volume is everything. The $100 million is the goal, but it’s not the target. Protecting our brand and its integrity is just as important as getting to our volume goal.

It’s not easy with a consumer armed with a smartphone and has been conditioned to shop on price.

Well, one way is to segment the brands like we have with Earth Origins, which is our volume-driven business. But even within that we want to protect the main core price range so that it allows us to build a collection that retains a

The fact that Earth Brands is independently owned and debt-free means?

We don’t have to put volume markers into our plan. We can plan to grow our business five percent and if we get to 10 percent, all the better. But product is key, and we want to protect our brands. I don’t have any pressure on me to, for example, add $20 million to the business next year. I don’t have to approach certain volume retailers and do deals with them to try and hit that mark. So it’s about having the luxury, almost, to be patient with the way we want to grow and figure things out without pushing it. That’s the true benefit of our situation. If everything else fits in line—if we have the right product, people and marketing stories fitting around it—then we don’t have to force the market.

What keeps you coming into work every day?

The people I work with. I love the interaction and the opportunity to grow this company and, as a result, let everyone benefit. That’s really the most important aspect to me. It’s not just the people here, I love this industry. The people that you come in contact within our industry are just really lovely.

I’ve built such great relationships where they are like family. I love going to shows and seeing people who maybe I haven’t seen in three or six months, yet it’s like they are old friends and I saw them the day before. There’s an energy derived from being in this business that has just taken over for me. I get up every morning and think it’s going to be a fun day. I love to getting into an airplane or going to the office—it’s an exciting challenge each day thinking about what I want to accomplish in ordeer to do good things for people. We are creating a business that’s paying off for so many people. If we do this right, there’s a lot of good that can happen as a result. • 2016 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 67

LAST WORD

Fight Club

FIERCE KICKS A new self-defense method teaches women how to ward off predators while wearing high heels. By Ann Loynd

Soteria Method creator Avital Zeisler

“I believe that a woman has the right to dress the way she feels is most representative of her femininity.”

68 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2016

PLENTY OF FITNESS crazes have come in and out of vogue over the years—step aerobics, spin, boot camp, Zumba and even pole dancing made a (thankfully brief) appearance in gyms across America. Now there’s a new one gaining traction, and if you happened to get a glimpse of the class in action it might stop you in your tracks. That’s because attendees of Avital Zeisler’s Soteria Method are getting stronger as well as learning how to defend themselves while wearing high heels for portions of the class.

“Though they are not ideal self-defense footwear, that is not a reason not to wear high heels,” says Zeisler, a hand-to-hand combat expert, women’s empowerment coach and creator of the Soteria Method. “I believe that a woman has the right to dress the way she feels is most representative of her femininity.”

The idea to include a high-heel segment in her training method came from customer feedback. When Zeisler launched her fitness-meets-defense program in 2013, women all over the world of varying ages and fitness levels often asked if there was a way to survive an attack in high heels. “I quickly realized that I wasn’t the only woman not willing to swap high heels for flats out of fear of being targeted,” she says. And despite the fact that nearly every self-defense instructor Zeisler has ever encountered warns that wearing high heels is a risk for women trying to flee or defend themselves, she came to the realization that women aren’t going to—nor should they—stop wearing them. Her heel-specific survival strategy involves removing heels quickly when possible, escaping or defending in heels if they cannot be removed, and transforming the heel into an improvised weapon if needed. She also addresses the biggest apprehension—not being able to escape—by demonstrating the best way to run in even the skinniest of stilettos by shifting one’s weight to the balls of the feet. “It is important for a woman to be armed with survival methods while wearing high heels in case she cannot prevent being targeted for an attack,” Zeisler says, noting that her self-defense, fitness and self-discovery class has attracted all walks of life including actresses Amanda Seyfried and Keri Russell.

As for Zeisler’s personal tastes in heels, they favor styles she can train in: They must be comfortable, have a mid-height heel with a wide and solid base and offer flexibility in the arch. “But even though it might have all of my basic requirements, I still do my combative twist test, which is getting into my survival stance and doing some pivots on the balls of my feet,” she adds, noting that said position is one of her fundamental power source movements.

Soteria Method classes are currently being offered in various studios in New York. In addition, tips and training information are available at soteriamethod.com. Viewers can also find Zeisler on YouTube running on a treadmill in a pair of nude pumps—proving it can be done. “I view ultimate strength as embracing and protecting your femininity by taking your emotional and physical safety into your own hands,” Zeisler says.

“This is why the essence of the Soteria Method is for women to be armed with the skills to create, live and protect a life that they love.”