Footwear Plus | July 2014

VA N S : S E L L S L I K E T E E N S P I R I T • R U N N I N G S H I F TS I N TO N E U T R A L • S O L E ST R U C K E M B R AC E S S H O W R O O M I N G

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DIG IT Work boots blend classic styling with modern technologies for Spring ’15

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Bella~Vita

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JULY 2014 Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Lyndsay McGregor Senior Editor Social Media Editor Tara Anne Dalbow Fashion Editor

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Show & Tell

Samantha Sciarrotta Assistant Editor

The summer tradeshow slate offers a variety of locales, formats and add-ons.

By Samantha Sciarrotta

Kathy Passero Editor at Large Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer

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Judy Leand Contributing Editor

Old Skool Meets New School Kevin Bailey, president of Vans, embraces change and refuses to let the classic brand rest on its recent laurels. By Greg Dutter

ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Capri Crescio Advertising Manager

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The New Retail

Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

Solestruck rethinks retail with its new offline showroom approach to sales. By Kathy Passero

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Work History The latest work boots mix classic styling with modern technologies.

By Lyndsay McGregor

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Working in America A growing number of work boot brands are bringing production back home.

By Lyndsay McGregor

Georgia Boot 6-inch waterproof boots.

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With minimalism on the wane, running brands shift into neutral ground for Spring ’15.

By Judy Leand

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Naot Moves

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Kicks Starter Classic kicks in tonal hues add an edge to summer suits.

By Samantha Sciarrotta

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Joel Shupp Circulation Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl.

New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com

Neutral Ground

Industry veteran Steve Lax on why the acquisition of Naot is a good move. By Greg Dutter

Allison Kastner Operations Manager

6 Editor’s Note 8 This Just In

PA G E

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On the cover: Wolverine athleticinspired boots, vintage clothing.

From left: Skechers pull-on steel toe boot; Muck Boot real tree rubber boot.

10 Scene & Heard 32 What’s Selling 56 Shoe Salon 58 Comfort 60 E-beat

Photography by Trevett McCandliss.

Stylist: Claudia Talamas; prop stylist: Cecilia Elguero; hair and makeup: Alfred Lester/Utopia; models: Adam W/Red, cover; Moses G/Red, p. 42; Christopher K/Red, p. 45.

64 Last Word

Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

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PUT YOUR MOST SPLASHIONABLE FOOT FORWARD.

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NEW STYLES. NEW PRINTS. NEW FASHION SENSATION. COUGAR’S FULL LINE OF BOOTS AND SHOES ARE MADE FROM HANDCRAFTED RUBBER SO THEY’RE GUARANTEED TO BE WATERPROOF, MAKING THEM NOT ONLY CHIC, BUT PRACTICAL TOO. VISIT US AT FFANY AUGUST 5-7 TRU SHOW AUGUST 10-11 PLATFORM AUGUST 18-20 CALL 1-888-COUGAR OR VISIT COUGARBOOTS.COM

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EDITOR’S NOTE D A RW I N R E WA R D S

Evolutionary Times Tectonic retail shifts once measured in years are contracting down to blinks of an eye. It’s a zero sum game: Keep pace and evolve or become extinct.

FACEBOOK IS ONLY 10 years old, but can you think of a world before the social networking giant and its nearly instantaneous ability to reach billions of consumers worldwide ever existed? Or a time before the Internet and how it has since rendered the traditional brand-to-consumer communication platforms nearly obsolete? The pre-smartphone era now seems like the equivalent of sending smoke signals to reach consumers.

What’s more, the pace of these changes is accelerating. The latest technologies and communication platforms become passé before they ever become standard operating procedure. Similarly, the cycle of trends is spinning in and out of fashion like a tornado, which curates even the most miniscule of trends for the most micro of target audiences.

The ability to see what’s trending on Nakano Broadway in Tokyo, for example, allows a trend to travel across the Pacific Ocean instantly as opposed to the past, when a look would slowly migrate from state to state, city to city and neighborhood to neighborhood largely by sightings or word of mouth. Wholesalers and retailers that are able to spot the meaningful trends and react quickly will benefit most in this brave new landscape. When it comes to requirements, speed to market is a no-brainer. But speed alone will get you no place—fast. Knowing when, how, where and what resources to allocate are also vital to success.

This issue profiles two fine examples of companies that are stepping up to the evolutionary demands today’s market presents: the omnichannel retailer Solestruck and the legendary youth culture brand, Vans. Solestruck (The New Retail, p. 20) is one of the most unique retail evolutionary stories I have come across to date. What launched as an online business in 2004 has since morphed into adding a pop-up shop that’s since become permanent in its home base of Portland, OR. And here’s the kicker: that shop operates like a showroom. Rather than gripe about consumers who showroom at traditional brick-and-mortar stores only to buy online (often for less or in the size

and colorway that the retailer didn’t have on hand), CEO Bryce Morrow has created an actual shoe showroom. Customers come in, peruse, try on and snap a photo of a style’s QR code with their smartphone. Their purchase is shipped free to arrive the very next day. The set-up is far more efficient in terms of space allocation demands, enabling Morrow to showcase 450 SKUs instead of about 100 SKUs, which was the store’s limit when it carried inventory. What’s more, the new model allowed the shop to stay in the city, rather than moving to some white elephant of a building amid the suburban sprawls where Morrow knows his über-trendy customer most definitely doesn’t want to shop. There’s plenty more Morrow is doing—like wholesaling four of his own brand creations around the world—to adapt to the ever-changing wants and needs of his customers. It’s an inspirational industry story, if there ever was one.

Likewise, our Q&A with Kevin Bailey, president of Vans (Old Skool Meets New School, p. 14), is a candid and informative read on how the legendary brand refuses to stagnate, and that’s despite 18 consecutive quarters of double-digit sales growth and latest annual sales topping $1.7 billion. Bailey, a lifelong retailer who possesses an eternal teen spirit, chooses to dive right into the volatile, liquid market where Vans’ core audience swims. No significant consumer shift is overlooked and a need to react is never ignored. Bailey combines a boots-on-the-ground retailer perspective with proven examples of how Vans’ willingness to adapt and change can apply to all retailers and wholesalers. The message is clear: Evolve or run the risk of going the way of Thom McAn, Simple, the Edsel, Ladies Home Journal, the Roman Empire, the Dodo, dinosaurs… The list goes on and on. No industry, civilization or species is immune, but let’s hope none of us ever end up on it.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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One shoe.

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THIS JUST IN

Festival Fashion

Mirroring the diversity of the performers, fans rocked an eclectic array of shoe styles at New York’s Governors Ball Music Festival.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

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M FROM THE AURIZIO

DESIGNER

UPCOMING SHOWS

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Inspirations for 2014 / 2015

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When designing OTBT for Spring ‘15, we looked at down-to-earth values and origins. We no longer only reference tradition, we witness a growing unity between what has gone before, and what is to come.

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The complexities of individualism have never been more important for the global casual retail market. Marked by an unquenchable desire for change, individualism creates a unique personality, style, and identity. In response, we have creatively edited our research into 3 trends that answer “what is individualism”?

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OUTDOOR EXPLORER: The future of sportswear in casual wear combines the story of youthful adventures and the great outdoors. This is a chance to focus on details, with a big change in direction towards weight, finishing, and structures.

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GLOBETROTTER: Designed with refined simplicity, the boundaries between what was luxury-classic and sporty-casual are falling hard and fast.

Comfortable no longer means boring-aged looks. It’s all about weight, touch, fit, and finish.

STREET BEAT: A mix of anarchistic styles of the mid-90’s Brit movement, this “rebel Anglo-American girl” is part goth, punk, and sporty. When combined, they create something very new!

When designing the OTBT collections, we always pay particular attention to the materials. Veg leather and velvet suede with a touch of metallics leave traditional country roots behind to become truly casual materials; denim is a key material in all four collections; our washed and brushed leathers and fabrics are comfortable and wearable; new floral lazer-cut styles produce an embellished pattern look; and a combination of other raw and experimental materials combine for the upcoming seasons. -Maurizio

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www.consolidatedshoe.com | www.musthaveshoes.com FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 434.239.0391

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¡+¢ scene and heard Top to bottom: Ivory Coast’s Yaya Touré sports Puma’s evoSpeed Tricks, Nike’s Magista Obra in “Hyper Punch,” Adidas’ Battle Pack collection.

Clever Cleats MORE AMERICANS THAN ever watched the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil—but was it the players’ fancy footwork that attracted such a large audience, or did the neon hues and daring mismatched color combinations of the cleats catch everybody’s attention? When the games kicked off last month, 736 players —that’s 1,472 feet—took to the sport’s grandest stage and not a single one was clad in plain old black boots.

Instead, players sported every color in the Pantone universe: neon yellow, highlighter green, atomic orange, turquoise, magenta. Puma kicked it up a notch with its evoSpeed Tricks mismatched cleats (all the better to see which foot scores the goal), while Nike’s statement was its garishly bright Magista and Mercurial Superfly boots, made using the company’s

Flyknit technology which fuses the boot to the sock.

Elsewhere in the tournament, Adidas clad players in reptile-like black and white slashed with the brand’s trademark three stripes in neon orange, and Lotto’s new Solista cleats have a special skin that reflects light.

The attention-grabbing designs, of course, were no accident—not with the tournament being the world’s most widely viewed sporting event and the 2010 final having topped 700 million TV viewers worldwide.

Ccilu president and CEO Killick Datta—a big futbol fan—says visibility is the name of the game. “They catch the eye,” he says. “If you’re spending that much money paying an athlete to wear your shoes during the World Cup, you want it to be visible. The jerseys always stand out, but now the shoes are just as visible.”

Cleats constitute somewhat sacred ground in the sponsorship game. Whilst every player’s uniform must obviously match his teammates’, footwear individuality is fair game and players are free to wear whatever boots they want. The big question going forward: might the neon cleats craze usher in a fluorescent wave across mainstream fashion and footwear? Elena Brennan, owner of Philadelphia-based boutique Bus Stop, thinks so. “We will start seeing a lot more neon in athletic footwear, which is already a trend in sporty shoes,” she says, adding that it’s “exciting” that players are mixing it up. New Yorkbased designer Ruthie Davis agrees, adding that her only issue is that some of the boots “clash horribly” with the uniforms.

Carl Blakeslee, creative director at Portland Product Werks, licensee of Woolrich Footwear, believes the look is in line with a general neon trend across many sports. “We’ve seen these bright colors on the field in just about every sports event except baseball. That would be more shocking!” he laughs. He notes that there’s a particular synergy with soccer. “Using these ultra-bright, synthetic colors plays up how technical the players are with their feet, and that’s good for the game as well as the other products that are driven by this event,” he notes. “It’s a colorful game filled with colorful personalities so it all makes sense and flows together well.” Blakeslee also believes the trend will bleed over into other fashion categories, which he is all for. The only trend he doesn’t want to see cross over from this World Cup is face paint. “Other than that, there’s virtually a place for everything and inspiration can come from anywhere,” he quips.

Rocky Supports Military Families IN AN EFFORT to provide educational support to the families of soldiers killed or disabled while serving our country, for the second year in a row Ohio-based Rocky Brands is partnering with the Folds of Honor Foundation (FHF). The company made a $20,000 donation and provided product for the charitable organization’s Patriot Cup annual golf fundraiser. In addition, Rocky is including FHF information in its catalogs and national advertising campaigns as well as sponsoring military personnel to participate in endeavors such as the annual Bataan Memorial Death March marathon in New Mexico held in honor of service members who defended the Philippines in WWII. “As a company that has served the military for 75 years, we’re honored to be able to partner with Folds of Honor Foundation,” says Kevin Carpenter, brand manager for Rocky Military. “We wanted to align ourselves with an organization where the bottom line goes directly to the families, and Folds of Honor Foundation donates 87 cents on the dollar.

That’s pretty amazing.” Supporting the U.S. Military, Carpenter adds, is a major part of Rocky Brands’ DNA. For more information about FHF, visit FoldsofHonor.org.

Footnotes FOOTWEAR PLUS WELCOMES aboard Tara Anne Dalbow as Fashion Editor. A contributing writer to Blackbook magazine, manrepeller.com, thegloss.com and newyorkstylegirl.com, Dalbow has also styled for J. Crew Collection. In addition, Associate Editor Lyndsay McGregor has been promoted to Senior Editor and Social Media Editor.

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SPECIAL REPORT

Show and Tell

The summer tradeshow slate offers a variety of locales, formats and add-ons. By Samantha Sciarrotta

GDS: Pillar Plan Jul. 30-Aug. 1; Düsseldorf, Germany With a conceptual makeover resulting in a totally new show format, GDS is primed to kick off the season with a bang. In its new three-pillar system, show director Kirstin Deutelmoser explains, GDS presents three distinct but interrelated ideas to improve the show for buyers, press and exhibitors alike. Highlighting GDS’s three main shopping components, the first pillar takes attendees through a spectrum of styles with Highstreet’s contemporary, traditional and sporty shoes, Pop Up’s streetwear display and Studio’s sophisticated styles. A “Highlight Route” guides visitors down a path that leads past exhibition stands, special product presentations, fashion shows and events.

The second pillar is all about the press. Exhibitors will be given the opportunity to present their brands in a way that puts their brand message out in the open and ready for journalists to cover.

Focusing on events and entertainment, the third pillar, Out of the Box, plays host to the first Shoes and Accessories festival, on Aug. 1. Exhibitions, lectures and workshops as well as events in galleries, bars and other offsite locations set the scene for a completely new GDS experience. Also part of the third pillar, GDS’s media partner, styleranking.de, will invite fashion bloggers from all over the country to design a partner store’s window display. And that’s not the only role bloggers will play come show time. Maja Weyhe, also known as fashion blogger Maja Wyh, will live blog from the show, and other select bloggers will dress models for the fair’s runway shows.

Additionally, more than 100 bloggers will convene

at the FashionBloggerCafe Shoedition, where they can network and exchange ideas.

Deutelmoser happily reports that exhibitors are already reacting positively to the changes. “The new concept makes it easier for trade visitors to find what they are looking for,” she notes. “They will enjoy a ‘brand experience,’ which will assist them in their marketing and sales activities.” And with buyer and exhibitor attendance already on the rise, Deutelmoser anticipates a favorable experience for attendees. “Our research has shown that footwear and accessories buyers come to the event, not just to purchase, but also to stay close to the market and assess trends for the upcoming season,” she offers. “Within the new concept of GDS, buyers will be able to explore and evaluate the range of styles available on the world stage.”

FN Platform: Market Efficiency Aug. 18-20; Las Vegas Built “by the industry, for the industry,” FN Platform promises an efficient browsing experience with its six separate lifestyle neighborhoods spread out over 500,000 square feet of space in the Las Vegas Convention Center. It includes Black Diamond’s luxury brands, Cosmo’s women’s fashion, Bond’s men’s footwear, Camp’s athletic and leisure styles for both genders, Zen’s lifestyle and comfort labels and In Play’s juniors’ and children’s collections.

Streamlining an experience that can often be hectic keeps attendees happy and returning, offers Leslie Gallin, president of footwear at Advanstar, the

BUYERS BE THERE: Shopping Tips: Make a wish list, take breaks throughout the show to consult the list and bring a buying partner in crime to help you make decisions based on your lists and your vision for the season. Eat, drink and wear comfy shoes and clothes!

You can’t think properly and make smart creative decisions if you aren’t comfortable. —Elena Brennan, owner, Bus Stop Boutique, Philadelphia, PA. (Plans to attend FFANY, Capsule, Designers & Agents, Project and showroom appointments.)

show’s organizers. “FN Platform is an international marketplace where leaders and innovators converge to shape, shop and sell shoes,” she adds. “It offers an elevated, comprehensive presentation of emerging and established brands in a conveniently merchandised lifestyle environment.” At the front of

the show will be “Leslie’s Picks,” a section highlighting her top styles from each category. “We select the products we feel are influencing the direction of the industry for the coming season,” she says.

And if you’re looking to learn, FN Platform has you covered. “One of the biggest things we’re known for is our educational series,” reveals Gallin.

“We do it before the show starts so that buyers don’t have to leave the floor. We understand that they have to take advantage of their time. There’s money on the line.”

With after-hours events like the opening night cocktail party featuring the Peter Monroy Band, known throughout Sin City for its performances at spots like The Venetian and Hard Rock Hotel, Gallin notes there’s plenty of time for one of the most important parts of a show: networking. “It’s the biggest part,” she says. “The people you meet end up becoming the future of the business.” Which is why FN Platform also announces the newcomers, joining the 1,600 other brands from more than 20 countries. “Everyone always wants to know who’s new,” Gallin notes.

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FFANY: New York Groove Aug. 5-7; New York With everything from private hotel suites for luxury brands to more communal hall spaces for traditional labels, FFANY has room for any exhibitor, and new president and CEO Ron Fromm says that’s exactly what sets the 33-year-old show apart from its competitors. “It’s really all about the format,” Fromm notes. “FFANY is unique in how it has multiple formats in creating a marketplace. It just provides a really tremendous, elegant way of showing a portfolio of brands, and it allows each brand to have this immersion of its own image in the show.” As one of the season’s first shows, Fromm adds that FFANY is a “right place at the right time event. It really kicks off the product cycle all the way from the design stage to seeing it in-store.”

What happens in between those stages is what Fromm says FFANY focuses on the most, though. As the backbone of business, Fromm places wholesalerretailer interactions at the forefront of what the show sets out to accomplish. “We allow that action to happen. Our number one effort is making that experience better and stronger,” he continues. One way to do that, he notes, is building on the digital platform the show and so many of its attendees have adopted, like its digital marketplace, FFANY365.

Fromm also hopes to introduce more industry networking events, like the opening night event at the Hilton Midtown’s Herb N’ Kitchen. “We actually are working on bringing in some key fashion elements into that event as well,” he reveals. “I can’t disclose much yet, but we are well aware that retailers would like to see more and more discovery opportunities. We’re trying to create some at that event.”

The Atlanta Shoe Market: Perfect Space Aug. 23-25; Atlanta What could be a more fitting location for a footwear trade show than the Cobb Galleria Centre, a convention center built on top of a mall? Boasting more than 300,000 square feet of exhibit space that has sold out the last five years running, The Atlanta Shoe Market continues to grow. In fact, Laura Conwell-O’Brien, the show’s executive director, says she’s constantly on the lookout for ways to gain extra space as exhibitor attendance continues to rise, so she’s even taken over the food court area, as well as renting out empty mall stores for exhibitors to use. And this is on top of utilizing all of the convention center’s meeting and ballroom space not only for exhibitors, but for special events like a color and trend seminar, an independent retailer seminar and more. The whole thing kicks off with a three-hour Opening Night Cocktail Reception and Casino Night at the Cobb Energy Performing Arts Centre.

With more than 1,500 lines spanning comfort to salon and work to kids, Conwell-O’Brien notes that the show’s wide selection is part of its draw.

“Because the economy has been so tumultuous, companies are choosing very carefully where and

BUYERS BE THERE: What Not to Do: Impulsive decisions! No one is going to reject business because a buyer takes their time making sure a buy is going to help achieve revenue, profit and image goals. And make sure you really need it and didn’t already buy it. — Robert Schwartz, owner, Eneslow Comfort Shoes, New York. (Plans to attend The Running & Fitness Event for Women, GDS, MICAM, FFANY and Pedorthic Footcare Association Show.)

how to spend their dollars, and retailers are looking for trade shows to attend that are convenient and affordable,” she says, adding its “all under one roof ” mentality is part of that cost and time efficiency.

To better navigate its jam-packed slate, ConwellO’Brien suggests attendees do their homework before arriving. “I would recommend that they use our online floor planner prior to the show to schedule their appointments to be assured that they will be able to work with all their vendors,” she offers. “I would also recommend the retailers take the time to shop new vendors as there are many new and exciting lines that are out there right now.”

Outdoor Retailer: Born to Run Aug. 6-9; Salt Lake City Care for a run with your trade show? Head on over to the Salt Palace Convention Center in Salt Lake City, which plays host to Outdoor Retailer. Kate Blom-Lowery, director of communications, says OR is partnering with Ragnar, an overnight relay race, this year for a little bit of extra topical fun. As an abbreviated version of the traditional race, the show’s version of Ragnar will take place in the morning on day three and wrap up with plenty of show floor time to spare. “It’s a great way for us to support our new running segment,” notes Blom-Lowery.

Footwear exhibitors, spanning performance to casual, mix in with gear, apparel and accessories, which Blom-Lowery says sets OR apart from other shows. “The shoes are in a setting where they can be seen with other gear that enhances their performance,” she says. “It’s all in one place. Shoe retailers will have the opportunity to take a look at the latest and greatest, but they will also be able to see the other items that could go along with the shoes.”

Insoles, Camelbak water bottles and even food enhancement products for runners, bikers and more will all be on display. Held in the street, the opening night party even features products geared towards tailgating. “It’s all under one roof,” Blom-Lowery continues. “You can do all of your buying at one location and be ready to go for next season.” And to help make the most of your trip, Blom-Lowery advises attendees to download the OR app to help plan meetings and devise a schedule. “I would also suggest taking advantage of our lounge area,” she says. “You can get your thoughts together and regroup. Pace yourself. There’s a lot to cover.”

SMOTA: Exotic Offerings Sept. 7-9; Miami For Beverlee Maier, executive director of Shoe Market of the Americas (SMOTA), it’s all about using the show’s Miami location to its geographic lure; retailers from all over the Caribbean, Central America, South America and the Southeastern U.S. flock to the show. “Miami’s advantageous position to foreign markets has been well-detailed in the media,” she states. “SMOTA has been very successful in increasing participation from our foreign retailers. The overwhelming difficulty and expense in covering offshore markets are virtually eliminated when you exhibit with SMOTA.” But don’t think it’s priced like a global show. “Although international in scope, SMOTA is a major regional show priced accordingly,” Maier notes. “In addition, because our shows are a combination of open booths and hotel space, an exhibitor has the option of showing in one of the beautifully appointed suites at our partner hotel.”

Held at the Miami Airport Convention Center (MACC), show days don’t have to be all work and no play. Downtown Miami, waterfront dining and shopping destination Coconut Grove, the Miami International Merchandise Mart and South Beach are all located within five miles of the exhibition facility. But once you’re ready to work, Maier promises a high-level, professional experience.

“Our markets showcase the entire spectrum of all footwear and accessory companies, from the high-fashion to the large branded businesses,” she says. “Our retailers understand and appreciate that degree of selection. In one trip the customer can view hundreds of lines under one roof. It is a user-friendly, cost-effective atmosphere that caters to him and his needs.”

MICAM: Meet Your Needs Aug.31-Sept. 3; Milan, Italy While some trade shows cater to a specific niche, MICAM President Cleto Sagripanti prefers to keep his show a one-stop shop. “Men, women and kids’ sectors are all represented,” he notes. “It is a sound and reliable show of massive dimension. >55 2014 july • footwearplusmagazine.com 13

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BY GREG DUTTER

Kevin Bailey, president of Vans, refuses to let the classic brand rest on its recent laurels—starting with 18 straight quarters of double-digit sales growth—by embracing change and continually adapting and evolving.

HE NUMBERS SPEAK for themselves: 18 straight quarters of double-digit gains, annual sales at $1.7 billion and a threeyear plan that projects sales to rocket to $3 billion. Vans has become a really big brand.

It’s no longer the retro, lowtech, vulcanized, So-Cal lifestyle indie brand that started making shoes stateside in 1966.

Vans has become even bigger than it was when it rode the action sports craze of the ’90s, positioning itself as the Nike of the alternative sports movement. Back then, the company introduced hero skate shoes, opened massive skate parks around the country and created the Triple Crown Series for skateboarding, surfing and snowboarding, which showcased athletes from all three sports on national TV. It also launched the Vans Warped Tour—all of which produced hundreds of millions in sales annually for the company. But even that pales in comparison to Vans’ current size and 14 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2014

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O&A level of success. And President Kevin Bailey believes future potential sales growth could reach beyond the company’s projected $3 billion goal.

It wasn’t until VF Corp. acquired Vans in 2004 that the powers that be started to seize upon Vans’ full potential as a lifestyle brand. With the support of the new parent company, the brand quickly expanded to a worldwide scale.

Back then, Bailey was in his first stint with the brand (he joined in ’02), as vice president of retail. Vans itself wasn’t faring as well as some of the aforementioned brand extensions (which What are you reading? included the launch of a record comThe Signal and the Noise by pany) were expensive and overreachNate Silver. It’s about predicing and had caused the brand to take tive analytics and why cerits eye off what should have been the tain things succeed or fail. But primary focus: making cool shoes and what I read more than anyapparel. “We weren’t focused on what thing else that relates to work made us great, which was our prodare the non-stop posts from uct,” Bailey says. It got so bad, he confesses, that just before the acquisition, creative sites like Co.Design, Vans didn’t even rank as a top three Co.Create, Fast Company, Big resource in core skate shops for footThink, Wired, New Scientist, etc. To stay up with what’s new wear. Worse, the focus on action sports and changing, which is where pigeonholed Vans into a male-domiI need to be, I read the stuff nated arena. “We were doing a lot of that’s literally hitting the wire. things, even from a product perspective, that weren’t focused on what we do What is inspiring you? The well,” Bailey concedes. “We were chasvolatility of the marketplace. ing me-too products and not focused The changing speed of conon what we are known for—our classic sumers, particularly our youthcanvas vulcanized product.” The deciful consumers. Instead of being sion was made then to get back to the upset by the changes, I just brand’s strengths and “own what we are good at,” he says. find it fascinating.

Bailey says the acquisition enabled Vans to no longer have to act like a pubWhat is your motto? I don’t lic company. “It took a lot of heat off of really have one, per se, but us,” he notes. It also marked a sort of the Dalai Lama’s “Compasepiphany: “We decided to rethink who sion is not religious business, we really wanted to be when we grew it’s human business” has been up,” he says. It involved looking beyond a driver in how I have viewed Vans’ insular action sports world. “In work. I had a boss a long time order to make this brand really successago tell me I needed to develop ful, we asked ourselves, how do we stay more bastard-like qualities. At cool but also hold Vans up against the that moment I knew I didn’t best brands in the world? Not just the want to be like her and I quit. best action sports brands, just the best There’s always a way to be a brands?” Bailey explains. “We had to more compassionate leader, break free from our action sports world if we were ever going to recognize that there was a greater calling for Vans, and that’s when that change all started.”

That repositioning, however, created a conundrum. Bailey and his team believed Vans possessed the brand width to appeal more to a greater number of people. But diversification had gotten them into trouble before. “Our beauty is our diversity, yet our biggest weakness is our diversity,” Bailey says.

“We play across so many different spaces, and, to be a part of youth lifestyle, you have to be really diverse.” It comes down to making the right choices— a lot of them. “How to choose where to invest and how much to put in each

bucket? And which ones are for aspiration and which drive commercial value?” he says. For example, Vans has always been in mid-tier distribution and had every intention to remain so, but it also needed to make a statement in the upper tier to become a great brand. Bailey adds that the Vans turnaround meant becoming a top resource in core skate shops again. (It has regained its foothold there.) Not only that, Vans needed to be a wholesaler and a retailer, because that’s how the brand grew up. “And we had to be in the footwear and apparel businesses,” he adds.

Easy, right? Not exactly. Yet the turnaround that started shortly before the acquisition and picked up steam right after has been nothing short of dramatic. After a two-year break starting in ’07 to take on a leadership role at Lucky Brand Jeans, Bailey returned to Vans when the opportunity to helm the company was offered. “I couldn’t turn that down because one of the hardest days I ever had was telling them that I whether it be toward conwas leaving the first time,” he says. Bailey, sumers, employees or retail a self-admitted eternal teenager, looks partners. to be the perfect man for the job. He is a lifelong retailer who started workWho is your most coveted ing the floor of a local Gap in his home dinner guest? It’s between state of New Jersey in high school to the Dalai Lama and Richard “meet girls” and went on to add stints Branson. I find Branson to be at American Eagle, Eastern Mountain a really interesting guy who Sports, Banana Republic and an eightruns a lot of different busiyear turn as director of retail operations nesses but always seems balfor Nike. Bailey possesses an encycloanced and happy. pedic knowledge of his target audience.

What’s more, he has a voracious appeIf you could hire anybody, tite for keeping up with rapidly morwho would it be? My dad, if I phing teen trends. Others might find it could. He grew up an orphan exhausting or overwhelming, but Bailey and was still able to achieve thrives on staying current. “One of the quite a bit in life, which things I love about retail is that you are included running a cotton problem-solving every day,” he explains. blend division of a large tex“And all these changes of late—be they tile business. How he achieved new forms of competition, methods to what he did is something that I shop or ways to communicate—are new don’t know if I’d ever be able to problems to solve. That’s the beauty of live up to. it. If you don’t love that, you shouldn’t be a retailer.” Bailey says that checking What is your favorite homesales reports gets him up in the morntown memory? I’m from River ing and gets his heart pumping.

Vale, NJ, and it’s the simplicWith adrenaline pumping through ity of childhood: the way life his veins, Bailey is fixated on helping once was but, unfortunately, Vans fulfill its full potential to become everyone is afraid to do today. an iconic global brand representing I loved the freedom of playing creative expression and youth culture with my friends on our bikes across the art, street, music and, yes, and not being tethered to an action sports genres. As the following electronic device. When the 6 interview reveals, it’s a dream job for o’clock whistle blew at the fire Bailey, one he embraces with enthustation, it was time for dinner. siasm and willingness to adapt and change with his brand’s ever-evolving core audience. Ever eager for new challenges, he recently added a new title to his other responsibilities—Coalition President of Action Sports Americas to oversee VF Corp.’s Reef and Eagle Creek brands. “I’ll definitely spend a little more time outside of our building, but the good news is that Reef and Eagle Creek are both based in Southern California and in the same office— just a short drive down the coast,” Bailey says. One of his primary goals will involve figuring out how Reef fits into the footwear space, how it interacts with Vans and how, as a big sister, it can help. It’s all a labor of love for Bailey.

“Being part of this youthful brand and working with amazing people makes

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me feel young every day,” he says. “I also love being part of youth culture.

It’s such an exciting and inspiring space to be in. I’m one of the oldest teenagers you’ll ever meet.”

Did you envision this level of growth when you returned to Vans in 2009?

When I returned I thought Vans was this great brand that hadn’t realized its full potential. We had a lot of the right filters in place, but I don’t think they were all turned the right way. I also thought we were still apologizing too much for past mistakes. In 2004 we decided to be an art-, street-, music- and culture-brand based on an action sports foundation. Personally, I thought that we were still limiting ourselves. The action sports foundation was the first filter that everything had to pass through. But that doesn’t work for girls as well as it works for guys. A boy at age 9 may want to be a professional skateboarder when he grows up. A girl never says that. I don’t care whether it’s skate, surf, snow, moto or BMX, it’s just not going to happen nearly as much for girls. While their fashions might be influenced by action sports, I just felt like our guiding documents had to be turned a little bit so as not to limit ourselves.

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What were some of those turns?

It was about recognizing our true potential as a youth culture icon brand.

Vans is about youth culture. Action sports consumers are only a piece of that. There are also all the kids that attend the Warped Tour, for example, and the artist types who like to draw on our shoes but who aren’t necessarily skateboarders. It required us to unhitch all those different aspects and look at the brand from 30,000 feet to recognize that it was being contained in a box that it didn’t fit in anymore. We needed to let the brand breathe and recognize its creative calling, which was about how people express themselves creatively in many different ways. For example, the skateboarders featured in the movie Dogtown were emulating their surfer heroes on dry land. They changed the way skateboarding was viewed forever. That was a form of creative expression. Similarly, the bands playing on the Warped Tour are exhibiting another form of creative expression through music. So if you really start unhitching who we are as a brand, it’s really about that moment in youth culture when you start defining yourself. In your teenage years you are starting to understand who you are—the struggles of adolescence. Then, as you go through college, you are defining yourself further.

Then you embark on a career. Those years, between 16 and 24—where you decide what you wear, drive, do, listen to, hang on your walls, etc.—define who you are. That’s part of self-expression and that’s what we are as a brand.

More importantly, that involves a far, far greater calling than being just an action sports company.

It sounds like Vans experienced a reawakening.

Yes. By unhitching all of those aspects, our North Star started shining a lot brighter. That was the big change in the brand. We started taking on a broader leadership team, and not just executives but going deeper into the organization and soliciting feedback from all of our employees about their thoughts on the brand and what it stood for. I didn’t have to push too hard.

I just gave them little peeks and watched them come to the same conclusions, which was that we were limiting ourselves. While skateboarding is where we started—and we will stay true to that, no matter what—we discovered Vans could be so much more.

You say Vans is a youth culture brand, but there are a lot of people north of 30 who love it, too. Can these two demographics coexist peacefully?

I believe so. A company did a study on us a few years ago and said they were a bit perplexed because they’d never seen a brand where the 15-yearold skateboarder was OK with his little sister and dad wearing the brand as well. They compared us to candy bars and fast food in terms of crossover appeal. Some of that has to do with nostalgia. I’ll use Levi’s as an example.

Some of our consumer studies show that Vans and Levi’s will always be pieces in their closets, so long as we don’t do anything stupid. They sort of put us outside the arc of normal brands that come in and go out of style.

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We have a timeless aspect to us. It’s one reason we call our vulcanized canvas footwear “classics.” That’s Vans, in a word. We are viewed as a classic item. I also believe that as you get older wearing our brand allows you to express who you are. So when the neighbors in a cul-de-sac are wearing boat shoes without socks, Dockers pants and Lacoste polo shirts, our guy, who may work on Wall Street during the week, sports a Ramones T-shirt, Levi’s jeans and Vans checkerboard slip-ons. That’s his moment, outside of work, to be true to himself. It’s also a way for him to connect back to youthful memories.

Every adult was once a teenager.

Yes. The trick is offering styles that are current and relevant—a canvas, literally, where we can put both modern and nostalgic references. Right now, our Star Wars collaboration addresses both aspects. Star Wars connects to sons as well as to dads. It triggers a nostalgic passion in many people, yet it’s also a cool and modern collaboration. It’s been broadly received in the marketplace. We also introduced a top-tier, limited-edition Star Wars collection in our Vault series. That adds another layer of coolness and interest.

The slip-on silhouette, in general, is hot of late. How is that impacting Vans?

We happen to be in the right place for this trend, which is being fueled by the runways in Europe. Designers have embraced the sneaker of late, and that’s particularly beneficial as it brings women back into the sneaker world. What’s more, that’s a silo that, no matter who is making it, is recognized as a Vans shoe. So we benefit from that as well. But, having walked a mall recently, I had to laugh at the number of slip-ons in the store windows. Fashion cycles will come and go, but we’ll never abandon the slip-on.

Are you looking beyond this trend already?

First, it never left us, so it’s not that scary to us if it goes. We certainly know that some of our bigger retailers showed more interest in carrying more of those silos from us this year. But we don’t overly play into it. We don’t want to create a spike. We are not going to suddenly move the line dramatically toward slip-ons and try to overcapitalize on it. That just creates a fad, and that’s not what Vans is about. We are a genuine and authentic brand. We’ve been who we are for almost 50 years now.

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A growth spurt such as the one Vans is currently experiencing as it nears a half-century in age is unusual, no?

It’s not common and I didn’t envision this level of growth when I returned, but I certainly have lived through big growth phases at Nike. So I knew it was possible. We hit $4 billion while I was there (1993-2001) and I remember (then Nike President) Tom Clarke saying we were going to hit $10 billion. We all thought he was crazy. But we did. And then they said $19 billion, then $26 billion and now they are saying $35 billion. Why not? What we recognized at Vans is that we were being contained in too tight a box. The brand DNA was being too narrowly viewed. Embracing our full potential has been a big part of our recent success. The other part is enabling the platforms that we now have globally, which VF Corp. has helped us achieve in a big way. It has allowed us to grow faster in places like Europe and Asia, and with a new Central and South America region launching, we will be able to grow faster there than we would have if we were doing it ourselves.

We’ve also been very disciplined about building a more geographically resonant brand throughout the U.S., which has helped us grow overall. We put a lot of effort in New York with the opening of the House of Vans events space, with our General by DQM store and Vans retail stores in the surrounding suburbs. We’ve put a big effort into becoming meaningful to the New York-area consumer.

How does your extensive retail experience—starting as a stock boy— guide you in this position?

I think it gives me an appreciation for what it’s like dealing with consumers on a floor. And having worked as a stock boy, in particular, I >61

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GEORGIABOOT.COM

6/26/14 2:22 PM

SOLESTRUCK’S INNOVATIVE “MEDICAL CLINIC FOR THE SHOE ADDICTED” RETHINKS RETAIL WITH ITS NEW OFFLINE SHOWROOM APPROACH TO SALES.

BY KATHY PASSERO

The New Retail BRYCE MORROW HAS a sharp eye for trends—and for tectonic shifts in the shopping landscape. Back when he and a silent partner founded Solestruck in 2004, e-commerce was in its infancy. Morrow, then a freshly minted college grad with a modicum of website-building experience and no background in the footwear industry, felt sure shoppers would respond to a site featuring cutting-edge women’s footwear.

He was right.

In just 10 years, Solestruck has burgeoned into an omni-channel business that includes everything from four of its own labels (sold wholesale and retail around the world) to a brick-and-mortar store in Portland, OR. The Solestruck site has expanded to include men’s footwear as well as a collection of vintage styles curated for customers with a passion for retro fashion.

Ever keen to adapt to emerging trends, CEO Morrow is now re-engineering the Solestruck store, morphing it into a sort of gallery of Solestruck’s latest styles. Rather than keep inventory onsite, store staff now invites customers to download a Solestruck app and, when they see a style they like, snap a QR code to order it through their mobile device for free next-day delivery.

CLICKS TO BRICKS “We’re an online retailer first and foremost,” says Morrow, “but in 2009 we had an opportunity to open a pop-up shop in a great location. We were only planning to be there for 30 days, but customers loved it, so we kept the store open.”

Why would a successful online retailer create a physical store in the first place? “We wanted to get to know our customers better,” Morrow explains of the one-and-only Solestruck store, which moved to its current location in downtown Portland in 2011. “When you’re selling online, you never get to meet your customers. The bulk of your interaction with them comes through social media and e-mail. Portland isn’t necessarily representative of our customer base, but we have some amazing and loyal local customers, and it’s been great to get their feedback face to face.”

To Morrow’s surprise, the Solestruck store has also drawn considerable tourist traffic. “We have a somewhat oversized social media presence, with more than 250,000 Instagram followers and Facebook friends,” he says.

“Our followers don’t all shop online with us, but they keep up with what we’re doing and they put visiting the Solestruck store on their bucket list

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Solestruck’s showroom format features 450 SKUs rather than approximately 100 SKUs that carrying inventory would require.

The switch to QR-code-based shopping was an easy transition, according to Morrow, and customer feedback has been positive. Admittedly, life has changed for the sales staff. The store still emphasizes great service, but with no need to help customers find the right size and no cash registers to man, sales personnel now focus on explaining the new approach to customers and helping them download the app, scan codes and place orders.

“I don’t know if this will necessarily be the right model,” Morrow concedes, “but I think the store will be some iteration of this in the future.” Though he has no immediate plans to open similar showrooms in other cities, Morrow hasn’t ruled it out. “There are really interesting possibilities for this model, where you’re not encumbered by lack of space,” he says.

BIGGER AND BETTER

when they come to Portland.”

Recently, however, the sales staff began to sense that a number of these visitors were disappointed to find the selection at the Solestruck store more limited than the one they’d seen on the website, Morrow explains. Clearly, the shop needed a broader range of styles. The catch: The store was only 890 square feet.

“One of the difficulties for footwear as a category is that the inventory takes up so much space. To have a brick-and-mortar store that’s really representative of all the product we carry would mean a giant warehouse out in the suburbs,” he says. “That wouldn’t appeal to our customer base.”

Morrow was quick to spot another emerging trend (shopping via smartphone) and embrace it as a way to meet his company’s changing needs. He borrowed the idea for his new store format from British supermarket chain Tesco, which successfully launched a similar approach to shopping in Korea in 2011. Tesco posted images of its products on subway platform walls in Seoul along with QR codes so that busy commuters could scan and order them for free delivery while they waited for a train.

“It allowed us to go from having something like 100 different SKUs in the store to having 450,” Morrow says. “If we have one shoe in, say, five colors, we’ll have each color in a different size. You probably won’t be able to try the product on in the size and color you want, but if you place an order you’ll get it delivered to you free the next day and you’ll have 60 days to return it, either in the store or using one of our pre-paid return labels. We’re trying to make being in the store the same experience as being on the website.” In other words, it’s an offline showroom.

Solestruck has never wavered from its original focus on fashion-forward styles and emerging indie brands. The company has, however, grown considerably.

It now carries more than 100 brands and boasts a worldwide fan base. Half of overall sales are international, with product shipping to some 160 countries.

Support is strongest in Australia, Japan, China, Hong Kong, Russia and the United Kingdom. Price points range from $50 to upwards of $3,000.

The staff has increased from two to Fab Four: Solestruck’s 22, and the company now designs and Private Labels manufactures four of its own privatelabel brands, each with a distinct idenI Desire The Things That Will tity targeted to a different customer.

Destroy Me: This recent addiSolestruck sells all four directly to contion is Solestruck’s most avantsumers via its website and wholesales garde and concept-driven, with three to 35 select retail partners in each new collection entirely the U.S. and abroad. Now comprising different from its predecessors. about 30 percent of Solestruck’s overMade in China, it has the highall business, the private-label quartet est price point of the company’s includes To Be Announced, I Desire four labels.

The Things That Will Destroy Me, Yes and Takeout. (See sidebar.)

Takeout: Solestruck’s newest “We started making our own shoes private label is designed with to fill a gap for our customers,” Morrow the college set in mind: allexplains. “We spend a lot of time and leather shoes in trendy styles at energy traveling all over the world and low price points (less than $90). attending all kinds of trade shows, Takeout lets Solestruck fans from Berlin to Copenhagen to Milan who aspire to own the site’s to Tokyo, to find emerging designers costlier brands mimic the look and unknown, interesting product. for less. It’s also the only one of We noticed that we could continually the four brands the company find amazing footwear that cost $500 does not wholesale. or more. But it was very hard to find equally amazing high-quality product To Be Announced: The comat a lower price point, so we decided pany’s original proprietary to make it ourselves.” brand is made in Spain at a Exclusive collaborations have become third-generation family-owned another cornerstone of Solestruck’s factory. Styles emphasize luxe business. Case in point: A long-term materials, wearability and timecollaboration with Australian clothing less styling over trendiness. company Black Milk. “Our analytics showed us that we were getting a lot Yes: Also manufactured in of traffic from Black Milk’s site. We China, Yes is fast and edgy, couldn’t figure it out. Why were we inspired by what’s trending in getting all these transactions originatthe market, coming down the ing in Australia? Who the heck were runway and showing up on the these people? We did a little research streets of fashion capitals. “With and found out they do amazing prints Yes, we focus on everything 60 and have this crazy, cult-like fan base days out,” Morrow explains. of about a million followers on >59

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Working in America As labor, materials and shipping costs skyrocket in Asia, a growing number of work boot manufacturers are bringing production back home. By Lyndsay McGregor

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WHEN THE WORKING Person’s Store first opened its doors in Lakeville, IN, in 1995, CEO Eric Deniger says 99.9 percent of everything the store carried was made in the United States. Just a few short years later, however, most of the true blue American brands sitting on his shelves had shifted their production overseas, and the retailer found himself having to dig for U.S.-made stock. Today it seems the pendulum is slowly swinging back, as more work boot companies re-shore production to take advantage of shorter lead times, domestic energy prices and other cost savings—and Deniger is grateful. “There are still a lot of workers that value product made in the U.S.A., and because we’re a work store it’s very important for us to carry product that’s made here,” he says, pointing out that his store’s selection of U.S.-built work boots now includes Thorogood, Danner, Chippewa, Wolverine, Keen, Carolina and Double-H. Nikolai Christensen, vice president of product at Keen, says the shift mirrors the farm-to-fork movement that’s sweeping the country. For starters, it involves less shipping and is therefore more environmentally friendly. “People want to know where things come from and they really appreciate owning something that comes from their own country,” he says. In addition, consumers have a higher level of trust in American production practices with regards to materials used and workers’ rights. As David Riley, founder of Americans Working, an online directory that lists companies that manufacture stateside, says, “There’s no way a pair of work boots made in Malaysia or Vietnam was made with the same safety standards to workers—and the environment—that we have in North America.”

Another factor fueling the made-in-America

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From left: Workers at the recently opened FIT USA work boot factory in Jefferson City, TN; one of Keen’s U.S.-built boots.

revival has risen out of the recession. The outsourcing of American jobs is front and center in the minds of millions of consumers, and with record unemployment still lingering, many are particularly concerned with where their dollar goes. Thus, purchasing products made by fellow Americans has become increasingly attractive. As Brandon Barker, brand manager at Justin Brands, makers of Justin Boots, Justin Original Workboots, Tony Lama, Nocona and Chippewa, puts it, “The economic downturn opened the eyes of a lot of people.” Riley echoes this sentiment: “More people are affected by family members or friends who have no jobs or who have low-paying jobs, and they know that if they spend more money on American-made goods, that will create more American jobs, which in turn will make the economy stronger and healthier.” Adrienne Beasley, footwear buyer for Tractor Supply Company, agrees. “In addition to supporting those domestic jobs, selling American-made boots supports that belief that being made in America is more important now than ever before in our country.

Customers really see the value in that made-inAmerica statement,” she confirms, adding, “For most Americans there’s that sense of pride in knowing they’ve purchased an item that was made in the U.S.”

RED, WHITE AND TRUE The Buy American sentiment is something that advertisers are increasingly tapping into.

According to research firm Kantar Media, in the first half of 2013, advertising by the likes of the Toyota Dealer Association, Chevron and New Balance that emphasized products’ Americanmade status nearly tripled when compared with the first half of 2012. But while a New York Times poll taken last year found that two-thirds of Americans say they check labels when shopping to see if they are buying American goods, their statements don’t always square with how

they actually spend their money. Even when consumers are confronted with the human cost often associated with cheap production, like last year’s factory collapse in Bangladesh that killed more than 1,100 garment workers, they show little inclination to pay more.

Indeed, production of cheaper goods is by and large staying overseas, where companies can find less expensive manufacturing. But even if domestic production is costlier, it’s an investment some brands are willing to make.

“We incur a higher cost when it comes to the product because we’re using American labor,” states Keen’s Christensen, who notes that the company currently employs 70 in its Portland, OR, factory—that’s double the workforce it had a year ago. Likewise, Red Wing, which buys cattle hides in Nebraska, tans them in St. Paul, MN, and turns them into work boots in factories located in Kentucky, Missouri and Minnesota, has 1,000 Americans on its payroll and is on trend to have a record year in revenue. CEO Dave Murphy acknowledges that because Red Wing workers make “very livable wages with good benefits,” that does put the brand at a higher price point than boots made offshore.

Matt Priest, president of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA), believes it’s a reasonable cost increase consumers are willing to absorb—so long as the quality is there. “Work boot clientele are more prone to want to buy American and at price points where face value might seem high but quality and craftsmanship means these boots will be used for a long, long time,” he says. LaCrosse Footwear Product Line Manager Hans Albing agrees. “Historically, our made-in-the-U.S.A. product has been bulletproof,” he quips, adding that rising costs in Asia mean the price gap has been steadily narrowing.

In fact, one of the biggest factors contributing to the rebirth of American-made work

boots has to do with China’s sourcing issues that are forcing manufacturers to look elsewhere for production, be it Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico or the U.S., among other countries.

That’s why German-owned TanTec, which supplies premium quality leathers to the likes of Timberland and Wolverine, decided to open its first U.S. tannery operations in Vicksburg, MI, in May. “We don’t know how countries like China and Vietnam will develop in the future.

China is getting more expensive and if Vietnam enters the Free Trade Zone with the U.S. labor will be more expensive,” says CEO Thomas Schneider.

So an industry that was once pretty much left for dead here is showing a pulse. And, according to some manufacturers, it’s an easier endeavor than making product overseas. “We’ve had cases where customers have had a big need quickly and we can literally turnaround and make those shoes in a week,” says Murphy, pointing out that having easy access to all the necessary raw materials as well as multiple U.S. warehouses is a big plus. “Our responsiveness is way above average,” he adds.

Barker echoes this, noting that Justin Brands’ U.S. workforce of 1,140 produces half its dollar volume of goods sold. To wit, Justin is celebrating its homegrown capabilities this year with an extensive Thank You marketing campaign as a way to show its gratitude to retailers for selling (and consumers for buying) its U.S.-made boots as well as to inform the public about its brands’ commitment to domestic manufacturing. “We’re appreciative to those who are willing to spend a little extra to buy an American-made product,” he says. Riley of Americans Working believes the movement is more than just a patriotic phase, and according to many Americanmade suppliers, the premium quality offered is more of a selling point. A really well made work boot—one that is truly built to last—is deemed a worthy investment among consumers who 2014 july • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

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“For the first time in the history of our company, we will roll out a line of direct-inject, Americanmade products.”

—Brandon Barker, brand manager, Justin Brands Red Wing

demand more bang for their buck.

“Our American-made work boots are built to last a lifetime,” claims Albing of LaCrosse, which is expanding two of its Danner brand’s made-in-the-U.S.A. utility categories for Spring ’15: the Quarry U.S.A. and the Bull Run series.

“Last year we brought our No. 1 selling boot, the Quarry, to our Portland, OR, factory after making it overseas for 10 years—and we were able to bring it back here at the same retail price that our customers had been paying for it when it had been made overseas.” Next spring, the Quarry will expand to include distressed leather products, some insulated options and a wedge outsole, while the Bull Run, whose heritageinspired look also appeals to the lifestyle arena, introduces a moc toe.

Keen has expanded its American Built collection: the Portland PR men’s work boot, which comes in 6- and 8-inch options, has been joined by the Braddock (an outdoor-inspired silhouette), the Corvallis (a refined take on a classic work boot) and the Estacada (an all-purpose waterproof boot), each of which offers ASTM-rated protection. Over at Red Wing, Murphy reveals that the company has revamped its U.S.-made DynaForce line with lightweight, contemporary constructions to attract a younger consumer to debut for next spring. “The good news is we’re able to do that without compromising the purpose-built nature of our boots,” he says, adding that a new Foreman Chukka will also join the utility team next season as part of the Red Wing Heritage collection.

THE LONG WAY HOME One of the challenges now facing some domestic manufacturers is how to manage growth.

As Loretta Lee, chairman of Merchant House International Inc., parent company of the newly opened FIT USA manufacturing facility in Jefferson City, TN, points out, shoemaking has

been in decline here for more than 30 years. “It takes a special skill to sew leather. You can get the best machine to put the bottom together but the upper sewing takes skill,” she says. Lee is quick to note that her work boot-making facility, whose partners include Sears and Walmart, hopes to supplement its output with a second production line within three months, once more workers have been trained.

Not only is the shallow pool of skilled workers a problem, the lack of injection molding equipment and necessary components are major shortcomings, too. “The supply chain in the U.S. is not as robust as in other countries. For us to find outsoles, certain eyelets or any new technology that would allow us to make athletic constructions here in the U.S., it’s difficult,” confirms Albing. It’s one of the reasons why most companies are only bringing part of their production back to the U.S. “We definitely want to increase what we’re doing here but there’s a certain construction for each shoe type and instead of getting us pigeonholed into one shoe type based on what our factories here can produce we manufacture overseas, too,” says Keen’s Christensen.

Murphy agrees: “There are some shoes that we have at an entry-level position that would be hard to price properly if they were made in the U.S. So we focus on certain technology here and some that exists in Asia, certain bottoming for instance that we don’t think is worth investing in for here.”

But that’s a price Justin Brands has been willing to pay. The Berkshire Hathaway-owned company recently forked out for a Desma, a directinject machine, usually found in Dominican Republic or China, that will help adhere uppers to rubber outsoles, resulting in more durable product. “For the first time in the history of our company, we will roll out a line of direct-inject, American-made Justin Original Workboot products,” announces Barker, adding that the line,

dubbed American Traditional and launching in Spring ’15, will span 6-inch boots to pull-on styles. “Using this machine allows us to compete at a lower price point,” he notes.

There’s no denying that labor costs and employee benefits in the U.S. make domestic production an expensive endeavor, but a desire for faster turnaround and more control of the supply chain helps balance out labor costs and overhead expenses enough to make U.S. manufacturing a viable option again, even if the FDRA’s Priest says it’s unlikely production will ever return to its heyday. Helping matters is the fact that it’s not just U.S. consumers who seek to buy American-made boots. “I was just recently in Europe and the Middle East and there is a growing number of construction companies that trust U.S.-made product because we are very strict on safety and we deliver on time,” shares Murphy.

Stateside, most consumers are more interested in the longevity of a product as opposed to where it came from, so Murphy suggests that retailers focus on the quality when trying to justify the higher cost of American goods, and Christensen notes that brands need to spend time educating floor staff to ensure they can convey their message to consumers. “They need to understand the quality differences between vendors,” Christensen says. “If consumers think your brand just built a product that can be built in any other place, then what’s the point?”

Having plenty of POS information as well as boot inserts and hangtags that proudly fly the flag helps. Deniger of the Working Person’s Store notes that as the price gap continues to close between imported product and American-made goods, it’s becoming an easier sell. “You’re starting to see people that didn’t have the expectation that they could buy an American-made work boot in their price range but now they realize they can,” he says. “It’s opened up another option.” •

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Running Preview: Spring 2015

NEUTRAL GROUND

Adidas Supernova Sequence Boost

With minimalism on the wane, running brands are adding substance to style for Spring ’15. By Judy Leand

O

VER THE PAST few decades, the popularity of running in the United States has had its peaks and valleys, but the long-term trend continues on a general upswing as consumers, young and old, embrace it as a sport, a lifestyle and a fashion statement. Along the way, running brands, spanning the established as well as a growing brigade of boutique brands, have responded by introducing new performance technologies each season, be it the recent less-ismore minimalism movement to the burgeoning maximal cushion movement and the current embrace of 3-D printing technologies that improve fit amid streamlined, futuristic sock-like silhouettes.

Yes, Nike’s recent introduction of its Flyknit construction—like its minimalist Nike Free silhouette of a few seasons past—appears to have triggered another craze.

If nothing else, it is generating new interest in the running category as well as picking up where minimalism is dropping off. The barefoot movement that had been the category darling

of the past few seasons (annual sales mushrooming to $1 billion, according to several industry studies) has hit the skids. Adding insult to (perhaps) injury, category innovator Vibram was recently the subject of a class action lawsuit that accused the company of making claims about its FiveFingers products that it couldn’t back up. The company forked over $3.75 million in refunds to purchasers. This isn’t to say, however, that the minimal footwear has become non-existent—there are still core devotees who seek the product—but the pendulum is now swinging toward neutral and even maximal cushioning.

“Neutral cushioning is the fastest-growing silo for us right now,” says Pat O’Malley, Saucony’s senior vice president of global product. “The market is looking for a replacement for the minimal business,” offers Michael Thompson, senior product line manager for Run footwear and apparel at Pearl Izumi. “We see a push toward plush, maximum cushioning, but without resorting to an overbuilt shoe.” Thompson says the sweet spot in the market now falls between minimal and maximal cushioning. “It offers the best of both worlds because you can keep the shoes lightweight without giving up the integrity of durability, construction and technology,” he says.

As such, many of the latest styles for Spring ’15 feature more cushioning, support and protection, along with improved fit but without

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the upper bulk. For example, heavier motion-control styles are replaced in favor of lightweight uppers that conform to the foot and hold it in place. That involves the use of seamless designs, fewer overlays, engineered meshes and 3-D printing technologies that make shoes lighter, more comfortable and better able to mold to the wearer’s feet. But they are by no means minimal in terms of their midsole support technologies.

“Runners are looking for simple solutions that look and feel great,” says Chris Brewer, running specialty category manager for Adidas America. “It’s a trend toward sophistication, which is driven by the return to simplicity.” He adds that the road running segment is exceptionally healthy and is growing within the specialty channel, which typically indicates near future growth in other retail tiers.

Here, leading brands discuss what’s new and noteworthy for Spring ’15.

HOKA ONE ONE The brand’s ultra-size and oversize shoes are the antithesis of minimal, and Hoka One One president Jim Van Dine contends that the unique designs have already inspired more than a few imitators.

“Our technology is a unique combination of proprietary foam, geometry and oversize midsoles/ outsoles,” he explains. “Those who characterize Hoka as simply ‘maximal,’ which is not a word we use internally, are not aware of the overall performance technology of our shoes.”

Specifically, Hoka shoes offer unique midsole geometries with higher volume, softer density and greater rebounding foam than standard running shoes. The result is a plush, stable ride that can suit a wide range of feet and running styles. New for this spring is the neutral Constant shoe ($160 retail), designed to be the most supportive and stable model in the line. The Constant is built with a mix of RMAT high-rebound material and EVA to blend a high level of support with traditional Hoka cushioning. The RMAT midsole geometry is built around the high-pressure zones of the traditional gait cycle to provide increased durability and guided support. The upper has a Lycra monowrap tongue that supports the foot through the arch and asymmetrical lacing to reduce pressure

Hoka One One Constant

across the top of the foot.

So far, so good, as Van Dine reports Hoka is experiencing exponential growth this year, opening new accounts each week. “We have grown from 92 active accounts at the end of 2012 to well over 550,” he reports. The bulk of the distribution is through running specialty dealers, but Van Dine expects to add sporting goods, athletic specialty and select better footwear stores to its mix next year.

ADIDAS The company has just introduced the Supernova Sequence Boost, a stability running shoe with Boost cushioning that provides support and comfort. Priced at $130, the shoe uses a full-length Stableframe that guides the foot throughout the footstrike, allowing it to sit within rather than on top of the frame for support. An engineered mesh upper provides additional support on both lateral and medial sides, and a full heel-to-toe Continental rubber outsole with a strategically flattened surface distributes the load of impact over a larger area, further enhancing stability. Adidas will also unveil the all-new Ultra Boost that will be the pinnacle product in the brand’s running lineup next spring.

“After the explosion of minimalism, the momentum is behind traditional shoes built in smarter ways,” explains Brewer, “like better mesh applications, from knitted to four-way to engineered meshes.” Aesthetically, Brewer sees the use of color, and how it is flowed through the shoe, becoming more sophisticated. “Simple designs deserve clean and premium color placements. We’re seeing this as a long-term trend,” he adds.

SKECHERS Skechers has been going gangbusters in the running category and received an added sales and brand credibility boost when endorser Meb Keflezigi won the 2014 Boston Marathon. The brand that rode the minimalist wave to break into the market will be expanding its range of products for Spring ’15, which will include higher price points, tiered distribution and new technologies. “Minimalism opened the door for Skechers because new markets allow lots of new players, and at that time no one ‘owned’ the minimal market,” explains Rick

Skechers GOmeb Speed 3

Higgins, vice president of merchandising and marketing. But Meb’s win flipped the switch for us, and our current partners are also creating more business from Meb’s success.”

Two highlights for Spring ’15 will be the Skechers GOmeb Speed 3 and the GOrun 4. The signature GOmeb Speed 3 ($120 retail) is intended to be a race-day shoe. Benefits include a 4-mm drop, protective cushioning from a responsive TPU shank and a proprietary RESAlyte midsole, a seamless interior and a supportive monomesh upper with seamseal hotmelt technology for a secure fit. The GOrun 4, designed to offer “explosive speed,” targets specialty running and athletic stores, and is priced at $100. It offers a seamless single-layer sublimated mesh upper, RESAlyte cushioning and a Secure Fit TPU wrap for added support. Other models in the line include the GOrun Strada for the run specialty channel, and the GOrun Ride series for the family channel.

UNDER ARMOUR Under Armour will be expanding on its launch this year of ClutchFit technology, a material innovation engineered to flex and activate under pressure while also providing athletes with a second-skin feel and a locked-in fit. ClutchFit’s secret sauce is its network of hourglass-shaped cells—an auxetic structure that flexes and gets thicker, rather than thinner, when stretched. The size of the auxetic units varies according to end-use, with the overall goal being to beef up support while at the same time allowing enough flex to provide freedom of movement.

The Under Armour Spine ClutchFit running shoe ($99.99 retail) will feature a die-cut 4-D Foam conforming footbed to eliminate slippage. The UA Spine chassis creates a light, flexible feel without sacrificing support. “ClutchFit will be given premium positioning in all performance categories,” says Joshua Rattet, Under Armour’s vice president of team sports footwear. “For those athletes, touch, sensation, fit and feel are paramount. The UA ClutchFit running shoe is designed to respond to the runner’s movements and the material activates under pressure to provide incredible feel and powerful support.”

Under Armour Spine ClutchFit

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Running Preview: Spring 2015

RUNNING COMMENTARY SAUCONY The headline at Saucony is IsoFit technology, which is being featured in the all-new Iso-Series collection comprising the Triumph, Hurricane and Zealot models. IsoFit’s soft inner sleeve and floating support cage create a dynamic fit system that adapts to the shape and motion of the runner’s foot, providing a sock-like feel and allowing the shoe to move in harmony with the foot. All three shoes include the new PWRGrid+ midsole platform that is 20 percent more cushioned and 15 percent more resilient than standard midsoles. The Triumph (neutral cushioning) and Hurricane (stability) are both priced at $150. The Zealot ($130) is a new neutral cushioning shoe built on a 4-mm offset to provide a lightweight, fast and cushioned ride. “While static fit is important, so is motion fit, which is where IsoFit comes into play,� explains O’Malley. “The technology is very flexible and designed to move with the foot while in motion, which makes it more comfortable.� He adds, “More people are moving to neutral shoes and want lightweight, flexible shoes that also offer protection and cushioning. What we learned from minimalism is now incorporated into the rest of our line.�

Aesthetically, O’Malley notes that Saucony is still using bright hues—such as blue/purple “twilight� and bold citron—as color pops and contrast.

White, used as a color pop or as a background to other color pops, is also becoming a larger part of the palette.

PEARL IZUMI Weight savings, the elimination of waste during production and aesthetic freedom all contributed to the company’s impetus to develop 3-D seamless print uppers. Two years in the making, the innovation is being utilized in eight of the brand’s 10 road and triathlon styles for next spring, with the EM Road N 2 being pegged as the brand’s breadand-butter model. “The 3-D technology doesn’t require cutting dies, and it allows for an unlimited amount of colors, textures and patterns that couldn’t be done with traditional stitching or no-sew technologies,� says Thompson. “The ink adheres to the mesh really

Saucony Zealot

well, and there’s no waste other than the ink left in the tray. We can add layers to particular areas for structure and support, and take layers away for flexibility and weight savings. Grams matter!�

He adds that it’s also an efficient means of design and production. “3-D printing takes away a lot of labor and steps in the production process,� he says. “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.� Thompson also notes that foam-based technologies are offering many new midsole construction opportunities. “We’re cautiously optimistic about the prospects of the performance run category for the next couple of years, and Pearl Izumi will see a lot of organic growth,� he predicts.

BROOKS RUNNING

Four specialty running retailers sound off on a few hot-button topics.

Is Minimalism Alive or Dead? Ä‘ĆŤÄ— ! Ä“ĆŤ !+,(!ĆŤ +*Äš0ĆŤ3 *0ĆŤ0+ĆŤ%*2!/0ĆŤ%*ĆŤ)+.!ĆŤ0$ *ĆŤ +*!ĆŤ/$+!Ä‹ĆŤ "ĆŤ5+1ĆŤ3 *0ĆŤ0+ĆŤ.1*ĆŤ .!"++0ÄŒĆŤ +*Äš0ĆŤ/,!* ĆŤ Ä¸Ä Ä€Ä€Ä“Ä˜ĆŤâ€”Lila Kaplan, owner, Running Start, Brooklyn, NY Ä‘ĆŤÄ— ĆŤ0$%*'ĆŤ%0Äš/ĆŤ'%* ĆŤ+"ĆŤ ! Ä‹Ä˜ĆŤâ€”David Cross, running coach, Run For Your Life, Charlotte, NC Ä‘ĆŤÄ— Äš)ĆŤ,.!005ĆŤ/1.!ĆŤ%0Äš/ĆŤ ! Ä‹Ä˜ĆŤâ€”Jason McClung, manager, Jacksonville Running Co., Jacksonville, FL Ä‘ĆŤÄ— %*%) (%/)ĆŤ%/ĆŤ (%2!ÄŒĆŤ 10ĆŤ!2+(2%*#Ä‹Ä˜ĆŤâ€”Will Lawrence, sales associate and running coach, Run On!, Dallas What’s the Next Big Thing? Ä‘ĆŤÄ— %*%) (ĆŤ3%0$ĆŤ/1,,+.0Ä‹ĆŤ +), *%!/ĆŤ .!ĆŤ03! '%*#ĆŤ /$+!/ĆŤ0+ĆŤ 0!.ĆŤ0+ĆŤ! $ĆŤ05,!ĆŤ+"ĆŤ.1**!.Ä‹Ä˜ĆŤâ€”Cross Ä‘ĆŤÄ— $!.!Äš/ĆŤ ĆŤ %#ĆŤ)+2!)!*0ĆŤ 'ĆŤ0+ĆŤ +)"+.0ÄŒĆŤ 10ĆŤ 0$!.!ĆŤ)%#$0ĆŤ*+0ĆŤ !ĆŤ ĆŤÄ™*!40ĆŤ %#ĆŤ0$%*#Ěƍ"+.ĆŤ ĆŤ3$%(!Ä‹Ä˜ĆŤ —McClung Ä‘ĆŤÄ— +3!.ĆŤ .+,/ĆŤ3%0$ĆŤ)+.!ĆŤ 1/$%+*%*#ÄŒĆŤ * ĆŤ*!10. (ĆŤ 1/$%+*%*#Ä‹Ä˜ĆŤâ€”Lawrence Ä‘ĆŤÄ— !+,(!ĆŤ(%'!ĆŤ 1/$%+*%*#Ä‹Ä˜ĆŤâ€”Kaplan

Coming off the heels of its 100th anniversary this year, Brooks sees technology moving in the direction that enhances what the body does naturally. Toward this end, the com3-D Printing: Design Revolution or pany has updated its Float and Feel Fashion Fad? lines for Spring ’15 to suit runners Ä‘ĆŤÄ— ĆŤ(%00(!ĆŤ+"ĆŤ +0$Ä‹ĆŤ !+,(!ĆŤ(%'!ĆŤ0+ĆŤ!4,!.%)!*0ĆŤ3%0$ĆŤ*!3ĆŤ at both ends of the minimal and ,.+ 1 0/ÄŒĆŤ 10ĆŤ0$!5ĆŤ"!!(ĆŤ)+/0ĆŤ +)"+.0 (!ĆŤ3%0$ĆŤ0$!ĆŤ cushioning spectrum. Hero styles 0.%! ÄĄ * ÄĄ0.1!ċĘ —Cross are the Transcend 2 in the Float Ä‘ĆŤÄ— $!5ĆŤ .! 0!ĆŤ ĆŤÄ™ ++(Ěƍ /,! 0ĆŤ0+ĆŤ0$!ĆŤ/$+!ĆŤ * ĆŤ0$!5Äš.!ĆŤ category and the PureConnect 4 in 0 ('%*#ĆŤ,+%*0/ĆŤ"+.ĆŤ/1.!Ä‹ĆŤ "ĆŤ%0ĆŤ3+.'/ĆŤ * ĆŤ"!!(/ĆŤ#++ ÄŒĆŤ the Feel collection. The Transcend 2 ($170) offers a soft underfoot 3!Äš.!ĆŤ%*ēĘ —McClung feel, dual mesh upper construcÄ‘ĆŤÄ— %#$0ĆŤ*+3ÄŒĆŤ0$!.!Äš/ĆŤ*+0ĆŤ ĆŤ$1#!ĆŤ"1* 0%+* (ĆŤ !*!"%0ÄŒĆŤ tion, welded overlays and an exter 10ĆŤ0$!ĆŤ(++'ĆŤ%/ĆŤ !"%*%0!(5ĆŤ ++(Ä‹Ä˜ĆŤâ€”Lawrence nal heel counter. The PureConnect 4 ($100) provides an open vamp design that reduces overlays and increases forefoot freedom, new saddle and Nav Kira Harrison, footwear merchandising associate.

Band construction for a comfortable and secure “As a brand focused 100 percent on running and fit, and a soft wrap-around collar lining that elimhelping runners experience the sport in the way inates seams around the foot. that they want to, we’ll also continue to evolve our “We see the pendulum swinging back toward line of lightweight shoes.� In the case of the latter, cushioning, and we’ll deliver the Float experience Brooks redesigned its PureProject shoes to highin shoes like the Transcend and Glycerin,� says light the shape of the foot by using a clean, >63

Pearl Izumi ĆŤ + ĆŤ Ä‚

Brooks 1.! +**! 0ĆŤÄ…

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w hat ’s se lli n g b out i que s

UNIVERSAL SOLE Chicago

w

hen Joel Feinberg bought Universal Sole from his friend Paul Peters in 2008, he knew he had a lot of rebuilding to do. After suffering some financial hardships, Peters, who opened the store 10 years prior, was having trouble purchasing inventory— and customers noticed. So Feinberg, a former Red Bull brand manager who had been involved with the shop from the start, took it off his friend’s hands and started fresh. “I was making sure that we were getting back the brands customers wanted,” Feinberg recalls. “We brought in the right shoes as well as the right mix of clothing from solid brands like Nike and Adidas, names that people know and trust. The business regrew by 400 percent after that first year.”

In its two locations, a downtown 1,200-square-foot store in addition to the original 2,000-square-foot Lakeview shop, Universal Sole boasts two different vibes based on the surrounding locales. While the Lakeview store is a traditional brick building with roots dating back a century and decorated with vintage, eclectic running memorabilia, the newer building shares a space with a physical therapist and attracts a more urban customer base. But Feinberg has the same goal for both stores: “We just try to be true to ourselves and our community,” he offers. “I want people to experience the community of our store, and we’ve really been able to carve out our niche.” —Samantha Sciarrotta

What are some of your bestselling styles of late? Because of the frigid winter, the Asics Storm Shelter jacket saw a lot of movement, and tights and running pants went pretty well. People weren’t going out, and we’re just now starting to see a little bit of a rebound, though not as much as we’d like.

Summer gear from Nike, Under Armour and North Face is starting to go.

How about accessories? Marathon training is starting, so belts and handhelds from brands like Amphipod are starting to sell. Its SmartView, which holds and protects your smartphone, has been a hit. Win sports detergent and anti-chafing balm Bodyglide are also popular.

What are the best new brands you’ve added to the mix this year? Some clothing brands have actually been good for us. The downtown store is a little more fashion-forward, so we added Prana and upped the CW-X presence, as well as adding Under Armour and The North Face.

Do you have a go-to shoe brand? The Brooks Adrenaline works as an allday shoe, so it’s always done really well, as well as Mizuno’s Wave Rider and Wave Inspire. Of course, Saucony, Asics and Nike are great, too.

What’s your take on the minimalist/barefoot footwear category? It’s dying, and it might even be dead. We never carried Vibram (FiveFingers), which was a conscious choice. We work with a lot of health professionals who saw issues with the product. A lot of retailers hopped on that bandwagon, but running stores approached it a little differently. This is the third time we’ve seen the trend cycle through since the store opened. We do carry

the Nike Frees and Saucony Kinvaras, but with the category as a whole, we’ve scaled back.

Do you prefer to stick with more classic shoes? People are staying with traditional shoes. I do believe that the Nike Frees will stick around. The maximalist trend is building, and we carry the Altra Olympus, but that’s about it.

We don’t want to get caught on one side or the other. It doesn’t make sense for us to invest in something that may or may not take. As a small business, we don’t have the luxury of taking chances.

Is walking a meaningful category in your store? We have people that come in, but it’s not something that we generally get a lot of people asking about.

We actually don’t even carry walking shoes. Putting them in a solid running shoe is more ideal.

What categories have you branched into? We do carry a full selection of spikes for high school athletes, and we’re one of the only city running stores that does. We have a great relationship with the local coaches. They deserve as much attention as the suburban schools.

What is the fastest growing customer segment for your store? The beginner runner, definitely. Marathoning is still very popular, so it’s been attracting new athletes. More women are getting into running, learning more about it and introducing it to other aspects of their lives, like yoga and pilates.

Do you sponsor any special events? We do themed fun runs and 5Ks like Burgers & Beer and Women’s Wine nights. We partner with Special Olympics Chicago, and we also have a spike night for the high school athletes.

It’s not rocket science—plenty of stores host similar themed runs. But the one thing we do have is an established presence in Chicago. People know us and trust us, so they come out.

What is your most successful form of communicating with your target audience? We have a heavy social media presence, and it’s the most cost effective way for us to get out there. We don’t have a big marketing budget, so we utilize what we can. We’re always posting serious commentary and promoting discussion and including humor, too. I gave my staff access to all of our channels so they can post in-store. I can’t tell you how many times customers reach out about a certain shoe or product over Twitter.

What is the biggest challenge facing your business right now? The competition. Stores like Fleet Feet and Road Runner Sports are only getting bigger, and the brands we carry are opening retail stores in the area. When there are more places to go, it dilutes the pool.

What do you love most about your job? Every day is a different day. Why would I complain about it? It’s very exciting to be in the industry, to see it changing, to see how popular it is.

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Naot Moves

U.S. distributor Yaleet acquires the Israeli comfort brand, including its two factories and 60 retail outlets. By Greg Dutter

From top: the Naot factory in Northern Israel; Steve and Susan Lax.

TEVE LAX, OWNER of Yaleet, the distributor of Naot in the United States, could have taken the easy way out. In a couple of years his license agreement with the company will be up for renewal and, following a near 25-year run of success, he and his wife, Susan, could then walk off into the sunset—comfortably.

And whatever might become of Naot, be it new ownership and a likely shift in manufacturing from Israel to China involving the loss of approximately 700 factory jobs, not to mention the end of Yaleet and the loss of another 100 or so jobs, as well as the potential loss of a brand many U.S. retailers consider a cornerstone of their businesses, would not be the Laxs’ problem or concern.

But that’s just not how Lax and his wife are wired. Rather than check out, they doubled down by buying the company. The deal, which closed in mid-March, means goal No. 1 for the Laxs has already been achieved: the continued employment of all its workers. “While Susan and I have done very well in our lives, this is something I’ve worked at building for 25 years,” Lax says. “I just didn’t want to see it all go away.” Lax felt, in particular, that he owed an enormous debt of gratitude to everyone who had a hand in helping achieve his success—the North Israeli-based factory workers, Yaleet staff, sales reps and retail partners. “They all have been friends for years. Susan and I couldn’t sleep at night if we just let everybody be on their way,” he says, adding, “There’s an old Jewish expression: ‘At the end of our lives, the only thing we have left is our good name.’ We wouldn’t have had a good name if we did that.”

Yaleet now owns Naot as well as the Dafna brand (makers of moldedrubber boots and Israeli commando shoes), two factories, 60 Naot stores located throughout Israel and Naot’s distribution rights worldwide (except Canada and Australia). The acquisition, Lax candidly says, is both a blessing and a word that rhymes with witch. While it provides an opportunity for Lax to grow the business in a more streamlined and significant way in the U.S. as well as worldwide, there are headaches associated with overtaking an operation with its share of challenges and quirks—starting with its Israeli manufacturing base. “It’s almost counterintuitive that there’s this factory in the most beautiful part of northern Israel making about one million pairs of shoes a year,” Lax explains. “It doesn’t really make sense in terms of dollars and cents, because it’s not the cheapest way to make shoes and, on top of that, we use European findings.” While Lax knows there are ways he could cut expenses, he believes that would run counter to why Naot has been so successful to date. He views the Israeli traits as the brand’s point of differentiation in the marketplace—namely the quality craftsmanship and materials and its unique constructions. “Our shoes have soul to them,” he offers, noting fans here are called Naotics because they are crazy about the shoes. “It’s very unique compared to what’s out there in terms of quality, comfort and design. And we continue to try and make the product better, rather than save a nickel or a dime like a typical Fortune 500 company does.”

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In fact, Lax believes that China’s recent sourcing woes (be it higher minimums, increased labor costs and longer leads times) makes Naot’s Israeli manufacturing base an asset. “It’s a big advantage right now,” he says. “We are lean and mean and work off numbers that nobody else can. We are able to turn goods much faster than most other brands and we can react to market trends quicker because our lead times are shorter. We are also constantly filling in on orders because our factories are set up to do so.”

Such an operation helps take out some of the guesswork that higher minimums are creating, he adds. “Brands are becoming over-extended based on the amount of shoes they have to make in order to keep a factory going in China,” Lax says. “If you have to buy X amount of pairs upfront without knowing what the sell-through rates are, or their fit, you are basically planning on having to clear out unsold merchandise halfway through the season through discounters.”

That’s a main reason why Lax says it will be business as usual for the time being for the newly merged entities. Yaleet will continue to operate independently and Michael Illuz, CEO of Naot Footwear International, has signed on for another five-year contract. “We didn’t want to change any of the basic running of the companies,” Lax says. “Michael has been a good friend and we have worked well together for 15 years.” That said there are some changes that are being implemented to improve efficiency. For example, now that the debilitating and morale-crushing infighting among the previous group of partial owners has been eliminated, Lax can focus on getting everyone on the same page to grow the Naot and Dafna businesses.

Part of that involves improved lines of communication between Yaleet and Naot. “We are opening up the pipeline between us so there’s better communication with regards to matters like marketing, which will also save dollars,” he says. “But we are moving slowly and carefully. Our goal is not to change the players so much as to get them better at what they do.”

Still the question begs: Does Lax really need this headache later in his career? His answer, in a word, “No.” But he doesn’t want to retire just yet. “I get bored unless I’m presented with a challenge,” he confesses. “I’m actually enjoying myself more now. I like learning a whole new area of business. I like what I do. And I love the people I’m working with and the relationships I have in this industry.” Of the latter, Lax counts about 100 retail partners as close friends that also involve “great” business relationships. “We are a big family. Right now, I’m head of the family with a lot more responsibility and challenges, but I have my kids helping me as well as a great team of employees.” He adds, “We made this deal to keep the family living for another generation. We have no plans to take it public or sell it.”

Lax understands, however, the merger brings on a whole new set of challenges that require some different skillsets. Enter the recent hiring of Mark Diehl, a comfort industry veteran and most recently senior vice president of sales for Dansko, who is now the company’s executive vice president of sales. “Sometimes I feel there’s a hand above me that moves in fortunate ways and I need to take advantage of those opportunities when they fall into my lap,” he says of Diehl’s decision to seek a new opportunity. “Mark has a lot of corporate skill and knowledge of working with a company our size and helping it grow. What’s more, he can take on some of my responsibilities which frees me up to do a lot of other things needed now.” Lax notes that introducing Dafna into this market will be one of Diehl’s initial priorities. “They are beautiful riding boots that have sold well in Russia and South Korea. They just need to be properly introduced here,” he says.

Lax claims to be reinvigorated by the prospects of his new, bigger company. And despite what was an arduous and cantankerous process to seal the deal (“The most miserable six months of my life,” he notes.), Lax believes it was all worth it. “One of our lawyers said it was like playing ‘Whac-aMole’ where every two minutes another issue or problem would arise,” he describes of the negotiating process. “But Yaleet is now a worldwide company. And Naot is now directly connected to its No. 1 market.” Lax adds, “We are very hopeful and excited. The enthusiasm can be felt throughout our company.” •

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Dr. Scholl’s

P H OTO G R A P H Y: T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I SS ; M O D E L : A L E X A N D E R C H A R L E S / R E D

KICKS STARTER

36 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2014

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Once a fashion don’t, the sneaker now makes the suit with its sporty, comfortable, versatile and youthful attributes.

Crevo

Reef

Thorocraft

Ecco

Rockport

2014 july • footwearplusmagazine.com 37

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Cushe

Lugz

Shoes Like Pottery

Lacoste

J75

A neutral palette infused with pops of bright hues, traditional white or material details give these Spring ’15 styles a kick without overpowering the sneakers-with-suits ensemble.

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • july 2014

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Ccilu

2014 july • footwearplusmagazine.com 39

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PAST RY CHEFS Carhartt 6-inch pull-on boots, vintage clothing throughout.

41

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COBBLER Rocky 8-inch boots with steel safety toe.

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FIRE CHIEF Skechers steel toe ankle boots.

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FISH MONGER Danner 6-inch moc toe wedge boots.

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CARPENTER Caterpillar soft toe hi-tops.

45

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CHEESE SELLER Timberland PRO waterproof steel toe boots.

46

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CHEF Dr. Martens waterproof 8-inch boots.

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PA I N T E R Justin Original Workboots comp toe 8-inch boots.

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CHIMNEY SWEEP Keen hikinginspired boots.

Fashion Editor: Lyndsay McGregor Hair and Makeup: Alfred Lester/Utopia

49

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WORK DETAIL As seen in our preceding fashion story, occupational brands merge classic styling with modern technologies for Spring ’15.

Justin Original Workboots 491: an 8-inch boot with Justin Jel removable insole and mesh spacer footbed cover for all-day comfort, as well as an ASTM standard comp toe for security against impact and compression. p. 48

Rocky Hauler: a waterproof 8-inch boot with a removable memory foam EnergyBed footbed on a slip- and oil-resistant outsole featuring blown polyurethane rebounding impact zones and a steel safety toe. p. 42

Carhartt Soft Toe Electrical Hazard: a pull-on style short boot with a soft stretch ankle and top line for a secure fit featuring a waterproof membrane, a cushion comfort polyurethane insole and a blown rubber outsole with oil-resistant properties. p. 41

Georgia Boot Eagle One: a dual layer of polyurethane and a memory foam top layer offer maximum cushioning in this waterproof 6-inch boot, whose slip- and oil-resistant outsole includes a Shovel Shank platform to protect more of the arch. p. 4

Danner Bull Run: a moc toe 6-inch wedge featuring an unlined interior and a non-marking outsole that’s oil- and slip-resistant, while the boot’s handcrafted stitch down construction offers a wider platform for underfoot stability. p. 44

Caterpillar Fabricate: a non-metallic waterproof soft toe hi-top with a SRX slip-resistant outsole, a removable EVA insole and Ergo technology to enhance stability, flexibility and comfort. p. 45

Skechers Roarke: The Goodyear Welt constructed steel toe ankle height boot incorporates a memory foam insole and shock absorbing midsole on a slipresistant rubberized outsole. p. 43

Keen Aurora: This waterproof silhouette features a high-abrasion resistant heel panel and an oil- and slipresistant non-marking rubber outsole as well as left and right asymmetrical steel toe protection. p. 49

Wolverine Growler: This boot’s Vibram rubber lug outsole features a unique pivot point and ladder lock grooves, while a removable single density polyurethane footbed and an ultra-light, compression-molded EVA midsole offer longlasting cushioning. cover

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I SS

Timberland PRO RipSaw: This waterproof steel toe boot shaped on a Titan last for lightweight protection features dual-density dynamic anti-fatigue technology and a co-designed Vibram and Timberland traction tread design. p. 46

Dr. Martens Truss ST: This non-metallic boot protects against electrical hazards with its comp toe and water-resistant full grain leather upper, while an air-cushioned sole provides traction and a compression molded EVA midsole offers a lightweight, comfortable fit. p. 47

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6/26/14 4:18 PM

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6/24/14 2:36 PM

S H O W C A S E SPRING ’1 5

Fashion meets function in this At the intersection of style and comfort sits Bearpaw’s new Blossom easy-to-walk-in wedge sole and espadrille, guaranteed to go with any outfit, any waterproof mood and any day.

Check suede bootie with out the brand’s new collection of sandals and flats at The Atlanta Shoe leather detailing, soft faux fur Market, FN Platform, FFANY and Outdoor Retailer. collar and inside zipper that

www.bearpaw.com

screams city-chic. Visit Cougar at FFANY and Platform.

www.cougarboots.com

Aetrex introduces wedge sandals in Spring ’15. With Lynco® orthotic footbeds for superior arch support, plush memory foam cushioning for comfort, and anti-microbial technology to help keep feet healthy and clean, this new collection is sure to add style and sophistication to every warm weather wardrobe. Aetrex will be exhibiting at Outdoor Retailer, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

www.aetrex.com

Skechers Flex Appeal sneakers feature a breathable Skech-Knit upper and

Tuscany by Easy Street is a collection of stylish and colorful foot-

lightweight FlexSole design, while the ultra soft Skechers Memory Foam

wear handmade and designed in Tuscany, Italy. Available in a wide

insole provides extra cushioning and instant comfort—it’s like a pillow

range of sizes and widths, the sandals in the new Spring ’15 collec-

for your feet. Experience the entire Skechers Memory Foam collection for

tion can be easily dressed

men, women and kids at

up for dinner or down for

FN Platform.

a day at the beach. Check

www.skechers.com

them out at FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market and all regional shows.

T u s ceasy a street ny by

®

M A D E I N I TA L Y

www.easystreetshoes.com

fw_07_14_showguide_01.indd 52

Chooka seamlessly merges

Blossom Footwear has built a successful life-

fashion and function, leaving no

style brand, “De Blossom Collection,” around

trend unexplored and every foot

high fashion women’s footwear. Inspired by

dry. Visit the brand at FFANY,

the glamour and sensuality of today’s hottest

Outdoor Retailer, FN Platform

trends, the collection spans platforms and

and The Atlanta Shoe Market.

wedges to sandals, boots and more. Visit

www.chookaboot.com

the brand at WSA@Magic.

www.blossomfootwear.com

6/20/14 5:34 PM

Island Slipper offers a fresh

featuring sophisticated styling accented by a diagonal strap in contrast-

fashion sensibility for men

ing mixed media. The sandal is built on Alegria’s signature mild rocker

and women. Made by hand in

outsole and fitted with the brand’s patented footbed for a perfect blend of

the U.S.A. since 1946, the line

style and comfort. Check it out at SMOTA, Outdoor Retailer, FN Platform

combines a surprising range of

and The Atlanta Shoe Market.

colors and materials with an

www.alegriashoes.com

insole that nests the foot for all-day support and comfort.

Visit Island Slipper at FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market and Surf Expo.

www.islandslipper.com

Tisbury provides the ease of

A classic sandal equipped with modern details, the Du Jour by Børn is

a versatile summer sandal

the perfect item to refresh and enliven a spring wardrobe. Du Jour offers

with Dansko all-day

a generously padded footbed, soft leather straps and a stable yet flexible

comfort and support.

rubber outsole, all brought together by the brand’s signature handcrafted

A molded, dual-density

opanka construction. Check out Børn at Accessories the Show, FFANY,

contoured EVA midsole

FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market, Dallas Market Center, SMOTA,

footbed delivers superior

S H O W C A S E SPRING ’1 5

Alegria by PG Lite introduces Colette, a brand new sandal for Spring ’15

Surf Expo, Transit and TRU Show.

www.bornshoes.com

arch support, while a lightweight and flexible construction reduces fatigue. Featuring Scotchgard treated suede uppers in eye-catching colors, Tisbury is style and performance rolled into one playful collection. See it at Outdoor Retailer, FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market and regional shoe shows.

www.dankso.com

Part of Spring Step’s new collection and made in Italy from high quality

OTBT is a global fashion footwear brand with the

Italian leather, the Nando is a comfortable thong sandal that features

chic traveler in mind. Inspired by music and cul-

laser cut outs on the upper and a polyurethane outsole with a squishy

ture, this unique line features high quality

padded insole. Visit Spring at TRU Show, FN Platform and The Atlanta

materials, authentic colors, and a tough sole

Shoe Market.

designed for maximum durability and function-

www.springfootwear.com

ality. Check out the new collection at Outdoor Retailer, FFANY, FN Platform and The Atlanta Shoe Market.

www.otbtshoes.com

fw_07_14_showguide_01.indd 53

6/20/14 2:21 PM

S H O W C A S E SPRING ’1 5

Ruby is the gem of Cougar’s Spring

Meet Leona, a black-and-white, alligator-print leather slingback that’s

’15 collection of handcrafted rubber

new for Bella Vita for Spring ’15. Designed and handmade in Italy, the

rain shoes that seamlessly fuse fashion

collection blends fashion, textures and colors to offer a line that com-

and functionality. Guaranteed to be

bines comfort and wearability. Available in a large range of sizes and

waterproof. Guaranteed to make a

widths, come visit us at FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market

statement. Visit the brand at FFANY

and all regional shows.

and FN Platform.

www.bellavitashoes.com

www.cougarboots.com

Western Chief rain boots feature a light-up sole so little feet can make a colorful splash with every step.

Rialto Spring 2015 is a contemporary collection of fashion

Two handles make it easy

footwear that incorporates comfort, value and attention to

for kids to pull them on

detail. Zora embraces each of these aspects. This thong style

and off, while moisture-

features an extra cushioned insole for all day comfort

absorbing textile linings

while its upper and mirror metallic embellishments

help keep feet warm and

exude timeless elegance. Come see Rialto at FFANY,

dry. Visit Western Chief at

The Atlanta Shoe Market and FN Platform.

FFANY, Outdoor Retailer,

www.rialtoshoes.com

FN Platform, The Atlanta Shoe Market and ENK Children’s Club.

(800) 925-7463

Light up the night with new Magic Lites from Skechers Kids. The Street

Spend springtime in Cheyenne by Durango. These cute and comfy sandals

Lightz Spektra sneaker’s unique color-changing button flashes four different

feature an array of color combinations, antique hardware and just enough

colors, while a convenient on/off button allows the feature to be turned off

bling to light up the Frontier City. Come see the rest of Durango’s men’s,

as well. Experience more from Skechers Kids at FN Platform.

women’s and kids’ collections at FN Platform and The Atlanta Shoe Market.

www.skechers.com

www.durangoboot.com

54

SKECHERS KIDS LOGO

COLOR SYSTEM

FILE NAME: KIDS_LOGO_BW.eps

fw_07_14_showguide_01.indd 54

CATEGORY/ DESCRIPTION: Logo identity for SKECHERS KIDS

BLACK C=0 M=0 Y=0 K = 100

6/20/14 5:37 PM

continued from page 13 Furthermore, you can conduct business and sign orders. That’s not a common trait in most shows these days.” He adds the late August start date (the spring market show used to fall in mid September) was made to accommodate the industry. “The shift was made in order to allow buyers to better plan purchases, to give exhibitors more time for organizing production and to align the timing with other relevant events,” Sagripanti explains.

With the new start date also comes a new, more organized format that Sagripanti says will “make buyers’ visits easier and optimize the time they spend at the trade fair.” Now, MICAM is separated into eight different halls spanning different categories and price points from contemporary to kids’. “The big players always come to MICAM,” he adds. “Buying mood will be on the rise, but with a particular taste for something alternative, not mainstream. It is the desire for something new and ‘out of the box’ that retailers crave. They will find it in Milan.”

Surf Expo: Surf ’s Up! Sept. 4-6; Orlando While several footwear categories will be wellrepresented at the September show, buyers can also get a read on the latest in youth driven categories such as skateboards, surfboards, resort wear, apparel and technology that will be on display at the Orange County Convention Center.

It gives exhibitors and retailers the chance to expand their horizons, says Show Director Roy Turner. “Surf Expo gives footwear companies a marketplace to really expand their businesses by getting in front of resorts, surf shops, skate shops and travel-related retailers,” he notes. “It’s a great opportunity to build new revenue streams apart from the traditional shoe store business.” Turner adds that any retail business based around beach lifestyle, board sports and water-specific resort and tourist markets can benefit from the broad array of exhibitors. “Surf Expo offers a unique curated collection of product categories, price ranges and suppliers geared to fulfill your buying needs,” he says. “It simply delivers the best buying opportunity for your business.”

Buyers are taking notice as Turner reports recent “unprecedented” attendance (Surf Expo was even recognized as part of May’s Trade Show Executive’s Fastest 50 list.) that he expects to carry over into the September show. “We strive to achieve the right caliber and mix of buyers to create a strong marketplace for our exhibitors, and it’s been an honor to be recognized for our attendance growth,” he says.

Project Sole: It’s A Man’s World Jul. 20-22; New York While the women’s market is more than wellrepresented at the bulk of shows, men’s styles don’t always get the same amount of attention.

That’s not the case at Project Sole NY in the Jacob Javits Convention Center, New York’s first men’s

BUYERS BE THERE: Top Priorities: First and foremost, finding anything new. I’m always looking for new and innovative products. Asking questions and following up with vendors on opportunities is important, too. —Danny Wasserman, owner, Tip Top Shoes, New York. (Plans to attends Coterie, FFANY, FN Platform and Children’s Great Event.)

contemporary footwear destination and the only show designed with the male customer in mind.

By displaying footwear trends alongside contemporary apparel, “we’re offering the opportunity for retailers to view a curated assortment and then validate their purchases head to toe,” says Leslie Gallin, president of footwear, Advanstar. And though Gallin acknowledges that the experience is “all about what goes on on the show floor,” she notes that the show’s laid-back feel allows her team to get a little more creative. “It’s a little more indie,” she points out. “We have juice bars, shaved ices and more unusual things.”

Gallin says Project Sole, like other MAGIC shows, is set up as if they were the buyers. “We curate and merchandise and basically lay out the show floor as if we were merchandising and buying for a retail store,” she says. “Buyers get it. The product comes first.”

Liberty Fairs: Free Reign Aug. 18-20; Las Vegas Just a year old, Liberty Fashion & Lifestyle Fairs held in the Sands Expo & Convention Center has already started making waves with its curated selection and ultra-hip styles, and this summer’s Las Vegas offering won’t be any different. Focusing on clothing, accessories and, of course, shoes, Liberty boasts trendy labels like Vans, Chippewa, Asics, Thorocraft and more. “Liberty is incredibly tuned into the market,” says Marketing Director Rachel Zimmerman. “We are part of the community we represent rather than an outsider looking in. We feel we have a responsibility to our industry to provide the best possible tradeshow experience. That includes delivering a stellar brand lineup, the best buyers in the business, superior customer service and an inspiring design-driven environment.”

That environment receives an update this year

BUYERS BE THERE: A Show is a Success If… I am able to make all of my prescheduled appointments and still have time to see at least a few new lines for consideration. And if I remember my iPad for taking pictures to accompany my notes. —Terri Holley, owner, Embellish Boutique, Chattanooga, TN. (Plans to attends FFANY and FN Platform.)

with the launch of Quest, a new area on the show floor designed to showcase a collection of European and American brands “known for setting the industry standard and providing a wardrobe for the modern man.” Exhibitors include Fifteen & Half, Boglioli and Herno, along with 20-plus others, allowing shoe retailers to catch a glimpse of the head-totoe look. “The space will be designed to embody the values and quality of the brands,” Zimmerman says. “That includes custom fixtures, black booth walls, community tables and central display areas featured within the main aisle.” With attendance numbers steadily growing, Zimmerman anticipates lots of on-the-spot orders and additional exhibitors, though, she notes, “it’s about quality over quantity.”

Transit LA: Curated Collection Aug. 4-6; Los Angeles In need of a more specialized, pared-down shoe selection? Transit LA has just the solution. The longest-running running footwear trade show in Los Angeles, Transit provides a carefully-chosen selection of sought-after labels like Jeffrey Campbell, Steve Madden and Dolce Vita on top of a number of some of the hottest emerging brands. With a tightly-edited assortment of exhibitors, the show focuses on quality rather than quantity. “It strictly focuses on presenting fashion footwear brands with appeal to a Los Angeles Fashion Market audience comprised primarily of fashion boutiques, better retailers and specialty footwear buyers,” notes Senior Tradeshow Manager Oscar Rodriguez. “It creates a fertile discovery zone for scouting standout new lines while shopping established brands.”

After increasing amenity offerings across the board, Rodriguez reveals that both exhibitors and buyers have reached out in appreciation. Daily footwear giveaways from brands like Frye and Vince Camuto, opening night mixers, espresso bars, snack stations and blogger programs are among the most popular. “They’re creating a significant increase in exposure for exhibiting brands, as well as more interaction with buyers,” Rodriguez states.

Held in the California Market Center’s main lobby Fashion Theater, Transit’s August show is an abbreviated version of its normal offerings.

“It spotlights just a sampling of footwear brands that regularly exhibit at Transit for a traditionally scaled-down edition of Los Angeles Fashion Market during the trade show-impacted month of August that takes place industry-wide.” Rodriguez points out that the show’s more intimate atmosphere is advantageous for attendees. “Transit’s location in the California Market Center’s Penthouse venue makes it easy for buyers to walk an entire show without missing any important exhibitors,” he adds. “It’s a great opportunity for exhibitors to take advantage of being part of a select showcase of lines highlighted before LA Fashion Market buyers.”

Rodriguez anticipates the exhibitor list will triple once Transit returns to its regular format in time for its October show. • 2014 july • footwearplusmagazine.com 55

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6/26/14 12:44 PM

EDITOR’S PICKS

Taking ’Stock Designers get really comfortable with footbed sandals for Spring ’15.

Aurora James

THE PHILANTHROPIST THEY SAY A great pair of shoes is the foundation to every great outfit. But what if those same shoes could build the foundation for a better life for someone in need?

That’s the thought behind Aurora James’ one-year-old footwear brand, Brother Vellies. After she learned that a traditional African desert boot called the velskoen (pronounced fell-skoon and known colloquially as vellies) was on the verge of dying out and that its shoemakers were losing their jobs, she had an idea to inject new life into the old styles by making them more contemporary for today’s consumers.

Thus, Brother Vellies was born.

“It’s so much more important than simply giving a handout,” states the Brooklyn, NY-based Toronto native, whose résumé includes a five-year stint as fashion director and curator at GenArt, a company dedicated to showcasing emerging talent. Despite not having a background in shoe design, James didn’t let that hold her back. In fact, she says it helped her. “My creativity wasn’t limited by the know-how. I was able to conceptualize designs and then figure out the implementation afterwards.”

Her first collection of modern-day vellies for men and women were handmade from vegetable-dyed kudu leather by shoemakers in South Africa. The collection received such an enthusiastic response that James expanded her wares this spring to include shoes and sandals as well as mini-me versions for kids. “I spend a lot of time in Africa and I know all of our artisans’ names, and all of our shoes have a story and come from a really special place,” she says, noting the company currently employs about 40 people.

These days James finds herself traveling throughout South Africa, Namibia, Kenya, Nigeria and Morocco every few months to work with the craftspeople, experience the diverse cultures and discover new inspirations for Brother Vellies. This fall’s collection (wholesaling from $94 to $346) sees the line experimenting with crackled metallic, cork, pastel suedes and springbok. “It’s a really good mix of fun, wearability and flexibility,” James offers. “It’s really about creating things that you can take anywhere with you and make it through whatever you’re doing.” —Lyndsay McGregor What is your first shoe memory? Sitting in front of my mom’s closet and staring at some snakeskin pumps. I never tried them on. It was more about appreciating the beauty of the object.

Who is your style icon? Jane Birkin, without a doubt. I’m thinking about her a lot for Spring ’15.

Which celebrities would you love to see in one of your designs? Any celebrity who is thoughtful about what they’re wearing and who makes a choice to wear something that has a positive impact somewhere in the world.

Where do you like to shop? Flea markets, especially the ones outside of Los Angeles. And I love Nordstrom’s pop-ins—they’re so fun—and Exodus Goods in New Orleans.

Which shoes in your closet are getting the most wear? I have a pair of Erongos in sienna that I wear pretty much every day, and my Denim Tyre sandals.

Which trends do you hope to never see again?

Any type of creeper or platform shoe.

Which designer do you admire most? I’ve always had a super soft spot in my heart for Rodarte. I think [Kate and Laura Mulleavy] are amazing.

What is your favorite part of your job? Spending time in Africa, coming up with an idea that I have no idea if we’re going to be able to make and all of us working together to make it happen.

Nina Originals

Vionic

Birkenstock

El Naturalista

Clarks

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES

DESIGNER CHAT

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UPCL OSE CO M FO RT

Essential Elements Birkenstock ups the ante with a collection of EVA sandals for next spring.

New Heights Aetrex introduces a wedge sandal collection for Spring ’15.

COMFORTABLE HEELS MAY seem like an oxymoron, but Aetrex intends to achieve just that with the launch of its first-ever collection of wedges for Spring ’15. “We want to provide the healthiest option for every style in a woman’s closet, and that includes heels,” says Executive Vice President Matt Schwartz of the Teaneck, NJ-based company.

Fitted with the Aetrex Healthy 3 construction, each wedge sandal will feature the brand’s proprietary Lynco orthotic footbed for arch support, balance and alignment, memory foam cushioning for customization and comfort, and anti-microbial lining to prevent fungus and odor. In addition, to further improve comfort and increase health benefits, the uppers on each wedge are adjustable. “The creative adjustability makes our wedges unique and illustrates our commitment to health,” says Senior Marketing Manager Hadas Cohen.

The sandal wedges are available in

three styles and three colors. Intricate stitching, laser cutouts, braiding and embellishments bring the collection to the next level. “It’s all about the details,” says Schwartz in regard to the design elements. “We wanted a shoe that didn’t just feel great, but looked great, too,” he adds. On-trend extras like perforation and floral embellishments give the wedges a fashion-forward appeal, while the shoes’ rich, earthy tones keep the style versatile and easy to wear.

“Our customer asked for a wedge and we listened. It’s extremely important to us that we can provide her with a healthy option,” explains Schwartz of the styles, which retail for $129. Schwartz predicts that the shoe will become a go-to for many women who are hoping to add a little height without sacrificing anything in the way of comfort.

Also new for spring, Aetrex’s beloved classics, from its Everyday, Cork and Customizable collections, have received stylish updates. “New colors, materials and details add interest to our top performers,” notes Cohen. “An ordinary thong sandal is immediately elevated by the addition of a beautiful floral embellishment,” she notes.

“This spring we focused on expanding our palette with the hopes of widening our audience,” states Schwartz, noting that the wedge collection, in particular, is aimed at a much younger audience than many of its other styles. “We were really fortunate to have as strong of a year as we did and we have high hopes for continued growth in the future,” he adds. —Tara Anne Dalbow

AS THE NORMCORE wave continues to swell, heritage brands have seen a return to prominence, and few labels are riding as high as Birkenstock. The comfort brand is experiencing a rush of popularity due in large part to the “less is more” aesthetic of trendsetters and, to capitalize, the brand is introducing new collaborations, silhouettes and styles. One that Birkenstock USA CEO David Kahan is particularly excited about is the launch of Essentials, a collection of EVA sandals for men, women and children.

It marks the first time in the brand’s 240 years of existence that it’s featured a non-cork footbed.

Different material but similar comfort benefits, says Kahan, noting its classic footbed shape is the same. And that’s quite an upgrade compared to most casual flipflop and slide sandals that, Kahan says, are almost totally devoid of support. “Most flip-flops or sandals are constructed so someone can barely walk,” he claims. “Our footbed will have the exact same anatomical and orthopedic details as those found in all of our cork footwear.

This is a major step for Birkenstock in that it basically brings the benefits of our shoes to a broader consumer base.” And while the Essentials does target a new market—those who may not be familiar with the comfort attributes of Birkenstock’s products—Kahan says his loyal customers are getting something totally new, too. “Everyone who wears a traditional Birkenstock will be sure to buy these as an additional pair for use at the beach, the pool, as a shower sandal, to and from the gym, or just casual wear,” he notes, adding that they will be sold as hanging merchandise.

Each style is adjustable and comes in a range of colors, including bright white, vibrant red and deep magenta, complete with a buckled strap that secures the foot at the top of the slide. For men, the sandal also comes in a twostrap style in both black and navy. Like all Birkenstock products, the shoes, which retail between $29.95 and $34.95, are manufactured in Germany. Distribution will span the brand’s current base to select sporting goods stores and boutiques. Early indications are Essentials is a hit. “The response at FFANY was incredible,” Kahan reports. “Every independent and better retailer who saw the line looks to place orders for Spring ’15.” —Samantha Sciarrotta

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continued from page 22 Facebook and Instagram. So we got in contact with them and discovered that they were using our shoes for styling. We sent them some free shoes and then it just dawned on us one day: Why not put Black Milk’s prints on shoes? We’ve done that for the past three years and it’s been terrific,” Morrow says.

Another quirky success came through a collaboration with Buffalo, the label responsible for the memorable platform shoes sported by 1990s Brit pop band the Spice Girls. “We remembered those shoes and thought they were great, so we sought Buffalo out. We ended up finding them at a small trade show in Madrid. I think we were the only Americans there,” Morrow recalls. “They weren’t making the platforms anymore, but we started talking with them and eventually toured their factory. And there were these incredible platforms that had been sitting in their showroom for 15 years. We recut all the originals and have been doing them for the past two years, with the manufacturing in Spain.

“We’re a buyer, a retailer and a brand making our own shoes, so we’re always looking for cool stuff,” Morrow explains. “It’s a team effort. We ask ourselves how might we make something that was once really relevant and incredible new again? Collaborations offer a great way to get fresh ideas around our product.”

LOOKING AHEAD Despite the changes in Solestruck over the years, the company’s core customer remains the same. She’s typically young (18 to 30 years old), lives in a large city (most likely on the East or West Coast) and views fashion as a key part of her identity, according to Morrow. International customers, too, tend to be youthful city dwellers.

“Because we’re showing online, there’s probably more of a mindset than a strict demographic in our core customer,” Morrow concedes. “We don’t get too many rural customers, but the age range is probably pretty broad. It’s more about having a youthful mindset than necessarily being young. People come to us because they’re looking for something truly new and distinctive. We end up

competing at some level with department stores and large e-commerce sites, but I don’t think there’s anybody else out there who does exactly what we do.

And I think our customers feel the same.

“They appreciate the fact that we’re extremely curated in our selection. We sell items, not brands. And we’re always on the lookout for something that’s going to stand out, something the customer will feel excited about. We don’t sell any products for utility. We want items that will make you feel fearless when you put them on your feet.”

At the moment, Solestruck’s hottest sellers are Birkenstocks and Birkenstockesque styles. “They look minimalist and sleek but they include comfort elements,” says Morrow. “We’ve been selling a lot of those across the board from all kinds of brands at every price point.

“It’s also been amazing to see the evolution of the sneaker,” he continues. “It went from being purely athletic to the sneaker wedge, then evolved to where it’s socially acceptable to wear sneakers with a suit and designers show them on the runway. I don’t think that trend is going to die for the foreseeable future.”

Fortunately, the unseasonably cold winter did little to freeze up sales at Solestruck this year. Business has been booming, thanks to the wholesale component and strong international sales. “We have some great retail partners,” says Morrow. “Most are independents and they’re telling the story of our product and what makes it special.”

He has not only praise for but unshakable confidence in the viability of such independent retailers for the future. “Footwear is a giant market,” Morrow says.

“Independent stores and brands will always arise. That’s what makes it exciting. The rules are just continually bent and broken and what’s old becomes new again. I love the creativity of it. I love being able to work with talented employees, brands and emerging independent designers who challenge the status quo and bring a fresh viewpoint to footwear. It’s been an exciting ride so far, and it’ll be interesting to see where it takes us in the future.” •

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E-beat

Game Changer Cortexica is set to transform online shopping searches.

FROM SKY-HIGH STILETTOS stomping down a fashion week runway to a pair of sassy fringe sandals on a street style blog, the kind of visual inspiration that triggers purchasing intent is everywhere. But the consumer journey from stimulus to sealing the deal—identifying, locating and ultimately buying the item of interest—isn’t always easy. Enter London-based Cortexica, which intends to change all that with its image-recognition technology, FindSimilar for Shoes, by allowing anyone with a smartphone to immediately identify and purchase the footwear they encounter.

Founded in 2009 by Dr. Anil Anthony Bharath and Jeffrey Ng in an incubator lab at England’s Imperial College, FindSimilar not only finds exact product matches from a picture, it can pull up a whole host of similar results, too. Shoppers using the technology snap a photo of an item and, by mimicking the way the brain processes images, the software analyzes it and returns suggestions of available items with similar characteristics such as color, shape and design. “Our tool requires 500 to 1,000 instructions to identify an item from a picture, a bit like matching fingerprints,” explains Iain McCready, Cortexica’s CEO. Currently, the company’s clients include German e-commerce giant Zalando, which will integrate the software into its website and mobile app so its customers can find styles among its stock that are similar to what they’ve seen on the catwalk or on the streets, and it’s in talks with several U.S. retailers as well. “Being able to find something in one click is easier than using drop-down menus,” offers McCready. “Consumers drop off the more they have to click, especially if the results they are getting are not relevant. FindSimilar reduces that friction and keeps them engaged.”

McCready singles out millennials in particular, who have grown up with camera phones and social media, as being a receptive audience for this technology. “It just makes sense. You can get more stock in front of people, which could ultimately increase sales,” he says. “And the outcome is often surprising: the most similar results are not always the most purchased.” —Lyndsay McGregor

BUYER CHAT

Henry Bae Solestruck.com

hunger” for fashion. “We appreciate things that are creative and weird, and we’re not too concerned with price.” He’s not lying: Prices range from $29.95 for an Adidas slide up to as much as $1,089 for a handmade sneaker from Japanese brand Hender Scheme. “We buy things that not everyone can afford but that we think are weird and interesting,” Bae offers. “But we really want to have shoes for everybody at every price point, as long as the shoe meets our wacky DNA.” —L.M.

AN E-COMMERCE SITE that grew out of a Portland, OR, boutique’s grunge-inspired offering, Solestruck does not try to be all things to all people. And that’s a good thing. Much like the broader world of fashion, the e-tailer caters primarily to women—albeit ones that wear fluorescent floral cutout booties from Jennifer Chou or pearlescent pink platform creepers from Unif. Solestruck has taken a similar eclectic path with its men’s offering, especially since Henry Bae came on board in 2012 as assistant men’s buyer. That’s when he began beefing up the offering with brands like Gant, Maruti, Ted Baker and PLSTK, with styles ranging from uber-casual skate shoes to patent brogues. “It was my job to cultivate a men’s empire with its own personality, vibe and social media outlet,” he says, adding, “We weren’t trying to sell Nordstrom brown boots. We were catering to the weirdo boys who maybe wanted an imaginative, creative design.”

Simple silhouettes like white Cheap Monday hi-tops and black leather oxfords atop an ivory rubber base from Public School sit alongside more out-there styles like a 12.5-inch platform sneaker by Buffalo. “Our taste definitely sets us apart,” laughs Bae, who says he has an “insatiable

What’s your buying philosophy?

My personal style and my buyer taste are very much in tune with each other so I just shop for the weird thing, because whatever I think is cool (i.e. weird) is something I know the majority of our customers will agree with.

Describe the typical Solestruck customer. An extremely strong sense of personal style unifies our customers, and they’re pretty online savvy.

What are some of your key trends for fall? Sneakers and boots are always running the men’s world, but people are feeling freer to be more creative with them. And consumers are biting at more interesting things.

I’m seeing a lot of textured leathers, iridescent materials and wools.

What about key colors? Black, black, black like always. And accent colors like red.

What are some of your favorite brands? I’m part of a generation where everyone is obsessed with Nike, but I think Adidas is doing some very interesting collaborations right now with the likes of Jeremy Scott, Raf Simons and Rick Owens.

Are there any trends you are tired of ? Slides.

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continued from page 19 know just how hard that job can be. It’s where the rubber hits the road— where the consumer experiences your brand. If you can put yourself in those shoes for a minute and think about what it’s like for that employee or what it’s like for that consumer experiencing that employee and your product, that gives you a unique perspective—one that is far more accurate than trying to orchestrate strategies on a white board and avoiding any reality.

What exactly is the reality at retail today?

The reality is it’s all changing so fast. There’s not a retailer today who isn’t talking about declines in traffic. E-commerce is where a lot of business has moved as well as off-mall. You certainly see the changes in what electronic devices are doing in regard to how consumers shop and experience brands and how they showroom brands, for example. There are terms being tossed around like “omnichannel� and “CRM� (customer relationship management), but I think most people can’t even define what those really mean. They are just using them because they are supposed to. I think really defining them requires getting on the floor and finding out what consumers want from your brand, wherever they find it. We all know the stories of singularity and how fast consumers and technology are changing. If you’re not paying close attention to those changes and moving quickly with them, then you will fall behind. Two years ago we spent about $4 million on a consumer study (the biggest one VF Corp. has ever done) to understand who our consumers are and what they thought of our brand and our competitors. We asked what values they assigned to us and whether or not we met their expectations. And we asked what they wished we did or didn’t do.

That level of consumer study has become part of our regular lives here— we are constantly asking those types of questions.

What were some of the answers the survey found?

It affirmed a lot of things, like that we were a brand often associated with skateboarding and males. But we were also a brand they associated with youth culture and meaningful moments in their lives, whether it was attending a summer Warped Tour or learning to surf on a family vacation or the guy they met at the beach one summer. Overall, we found there was a lot more to who we were, and consumers were giving us permission to do a lot more than what we did. It allowed us to sharpen our focus, turn up our energy and, most of all, got us used to asking lots of questions.

Is the traditional brick-and-mortar format even sustainable in a smartphone shopping world?

The old formula is not going to work. It never does. The old rule of thumb was if retailers didn’t evolve their concept every five years, they would fail.

I’ve seen plenty of retailers go through that cycle and disappear. So if we don’t change the way consumers perceive shopping or access to our brand— if we are not listening—it’s not possible to succeed under the old model.

As to what exactly will be the new model, I wish I had all the answers. We are spending a lot of time thinking about it and evolving the way we partner with retailers. Looking around the world really helps you understand that. For example, in this country we look at being outdoors primarily from the perspective of exploration and challenging ourselves physically, whereas the Chinese look at it in terms of socializing. So, can shopping in stores be social? I think for high school kids it is. You see so many of them at a Starbucks, for instance, and half of them are doing their homework while the other half are hanging out. What are the consumers doing and why are they doing it? What need does it solve? And if you get to what the need is, how do you meet it? I think retailers have to understand consumers’ inner motivations to really decide how to evolve what they do. If we just do the same thing or think we know without doing the consumer research, then we will fail.

I agree, but might the traditional retail format be approaching extinction?

I still believe there’s a certain part of shopping that involves instant gratification.

While there are web sites that do a lot for a female consumer with respect to footwear—some introducing same-day delivery even—does that eclipse stand-

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O&A ing in the middle of Nordstrom’s shoe department? I don’t think so. That access to everything and the sensory experience of trying shoes on is a very special experience for a woman. Maybe someday the web and 3-D printing will evolve and address those aspects, but even so, with respect to a woman or a teenage consumer, I believe part of the shopping experience is social. Two women who go into a Nordstrom, have an espresso, peruse the beautiful shoes and maybe go home with a pair or two—that’s the piece that I think will never go away. That said, how you meet their needs, how you update your services, how you communicate with them, how you listen to them—all of those aspects will change.

Teenagers move fastest of all with respect to those changes.

Exactly. So, how do you continually give them what they are looking for? Think for a moment about the connectivity teenagers have globally today: How can we offer them platforms to be a part of that conversation? That’s what it’s really all about. We’ve shifted a lot of our energies to consumer insights and trying to really understand them. It’s helped us make some of the changes we’ve made to allow us to better understand the consumer. We’ve added a lot of science to what is a very emotional brand, and that has helped us considerably.

What are some of the changes?

One example is the creation of offthewall.tv, which stemmed from the rise of social media and has become the center of youth media. I read a statistic that stated 70 percent of all 14-year-olds who watch “The Simpsons” do so online, not on TV. If you ask kids what network that show is on, they’ll likely give you a blank stare. They don’t know networks like we did as kids. It’s much like shopping: They want it when they want it and where they want it, and they want it for free. So rather than buy traditional TV ads, we decided to create content for them that they can watch online. We also recognized that we had to articulate our brand through some activation events that were different from the Triple Crown Series, X Games and Dew Tour events. So we opened a House of Vans in Brooklyn (four years ago), which is an indoor skate and music events space. It’s closed to the public, essentially, but we run lots of skating events and free music shows. Kids can get on the guest list and attend. It’s a great way for our customers to experience our brand. We also just completed another season of our Custom Culture high school art contest. That’s partly a way to bring attention to art education and the underfunding of it, but it’s also a way to give students a platform to express their creativity. They are all examples—the Warped Tour is one as well—of creating platforms for our consumers to engage with our brand. They continue to evolve and, regionally, they take on different nuances. In China and Europe, for example, those events are different in order to cater to the respective consumer bases. We’ve recognized that it’s not about selling globally so much as it’s about communicating globally. If you think about how kids today communicate online, it’s global and a free back-and-forth exchange. That globalization allows more input into our brand. With the variety of blogs, web sites and social media platforms, consumers are much more aware of what’s trending or what’s cool on a worldwide scale. So we want to act on what’s happening in Japan and bring it to the U.S. quickly. We want to give our customers access to that trend because they already know about it. They saw it on Hypebeast yesterday.

Brands today can’t dictate as much to consumers. It requires more of a back-and-forth exchange.

Yes, collaboration is a big part of the changes in culture today. Community is a big word, too. We knew it was coming with the advent of social media, right? We understood communities, but did we really understand where it was all going? In my opinion, it’s becoming a world without borders. About eight years ago I was watching my son (he was 12 at the time) play a game online. He was chatting with someone in Spanish. I asked who he was talk-

ing to? He said, “I don’t know. Some kid in Chile. He’s at the same level I’m at.” The fact that he was interacting with a kid in another country like it was no big deal just amazed me—and he’s 21 now. So think about how much has changed since then and continues to do so at an even quicker pace. Regardless of whether people say business is harder today or, one could argue, easier with such communication, you just can’t fit it through the funnels that we’ve all grown up using.

Any advice for retailers?

One: Be sure you define clearly who you are. By that I mean, what really is the DNA of your brand? If you look at the name above the door, what comes to mind and what does that bring up in terms of emotional thoughts about who you are as a brand? Is that message clear to your employees, customers, wholesale partners, shareholders, etc.? And have you done everything to align your choices and decisions to ensure that’s the message? Two: The consumer is the decider today. We have to recognize that all the power rests in their hands. We can try to get them to do things that they used to do and complain about some of the things they are doing now, but that’s not going to work.

We have to change to keep up with those shifts. Everyone has to get back to understanding the consumers’ wants, needs and desires. And figure out how their brand—the name on the door—can meet those needs and desires to be able to attract and engage consumers and make them loyalists to the brand.

The opportunity is always there.

That’s the reason we do what we do, right? When Nike entered the action sports space a few years back, a mass panic ensued—they don’t belong here, they are not authentic, shame on anyone that lets them in, etc. My reaction was you can only hold the flood back so long and, rather than protest it, I saw them as bringing in a new consumer who might be more athletic. We haven’t had that type in this space, which has been so insular and contracted.

So let’s tell those consumers why they may want to wear Vans instead of Nike.

Why bother trying to hold back the 800-pound gorilla? We do that and we’ll turn our attention away from retailers and consumers, and that’s not how to compete. It’s a similar scenario for retailers facing new forms of competition.

While we can all complain about mall developers not doing a better job at creating traffic, it doesn’t preclude retailers who have access to the Internet, social media, etc. to focus on the consumer. Rather than complain about online dealers, for example, ask yourself how you use the Internet? What does the consumer think of you online? How is your site operating? How are you communicating with consumers? Are you giving them a forum to speak with each other? There’s a lot you can do.

Where do you see Vans in five years?

Our goal is to be a global icon of creative expression and youth culture. That’s the bottom line. If we can achieve that, then the actual product we make almost becomes less relevant in a crazy sort of way. If I said Apple, for example, you might say iPhone. But if they had just stuck to making desktop computers, what would they be today? Instead, Apple has become an icon of creative technology. And if Nike stuck only with making running shoes, they would be known for one thing and might be the size of Saucony or Brooks today.

If Vans can become important for what we believe consumers want from us, which is a way to express themselves creatively as they go through that period of personal growth in their youth, then I believe we have a much bigger calling. We just have to stay focused on what we do and make the right choices.

We need to be smart about investments in technology, retail and understanding our consumers and their changing needs.

I say Vans, you say?

Creative expression. •

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continued from page 30 simplified upper with carefully crafted details and then added an energetic all-over print.

NEW BALANCE The Boston-based brand will add updates and new styles to its Fresh Foam collection for next spring.

New is the Fresh Foam Zante ($99.95), an everyday running shoe that focuses on midfoot strike and faster speeds. It has a simple, yet technical upper with no-sew overlays and a bootie construction that give the midfoot a snug, smooth fit.

“The data-driven design behind the Fresh Foam collection is a unique piece of our innovative technology for Spring ’15,” says Claire Wood, senior product manager for performance running. “3-D printing inspired the Fresh Foam collection; it gave us the idea to essentially customize a shoe for the mass market. 3-D printing helped us better understand how a runner goes through a gait cycle, so we could design based on the data.”

Overall, Wood views the neutral category as “an exciting group in the performance running market,” but it’s not the only focus for the brand. “We will continue to develop innovative, lightweight and low-profile models,” she says. “This has been an exciting area for our Sports Research Lab to work on and we remain committed to the styles that we have in the market now under our Minimus collection. I think the learnings we took from this have helped us to develop groundbreaking new styles and continue to help us as we look to next spring and beyond.”

TOPO ATHLETIC At Newton, MA-based Topo Athletic, the focus is on fit and serving runners who seek alternatives to traditional running footwear constructions. To that end, the year-old brand is becoming recognized for a fit that offers a broad toe box with a form-following construction through the waist and heel.

“It’s an exciting time in the market right now, there are more runners today than ever before, and not just off the couch to 5K—lots of folks are running longer distances,” notes Georgia Shaw, director of marketing. And despite the current industry revolt against minimal footwear, she (formerly marketing director of Vibram FiveFingers) believes

the movement made a huge impact on the overall market. “People are much more tuned in to their form, increasing strength and mobility, and are taking a more holistic approach to running,” she says.

From a new product perspective, Shaw says there is a growing infatuation with stack height and cushioning but notes more isn’t necessarily the way to go. “At Topo, we think things will eventually settle more in the middle, taking the best of maximalism and minimalism,” she says. Specifically, Topo will offer a range of platforms for next spring, including a sleek 13-mm stack height to a heartier 22-mm, like on the Fli-Lyte shoe, which is for longer distances. The Fli-Lyte ($100) has a 4-mm rubber outsole, a 13-mm EVA heel with 10-mm of EVA on the ball of the foot and a 5-mm footbed. “We think it’s important to train in a range of stack heights and to use different muscles while improving form, strength, and mobility,” Shaw says.

NEWTON RUNNING Avoiding minimal and maximal extremes, Craig Heisner, president of Boulder, CO-based Newton Running, says the company will continue to do what it’s done since launching in 2007—and that’s to follow the beat of its efficient design premise.

“We will hold true to delivering the most dynamic shoes on the market that give runners everything they need and nothing they don’t,” he asserts.

While Heisner expects more brands to jump on the maximal bandwagon next year, Newton will not be one of them. At the same time, Heisner believes the extreme minimalist movement has ended.

“Although we never considered ourselves a minimalist brand, there are aspects of our design construction (lower drops and lightweight) that were copied by many brands chasing the trend, thus lumping us in with the fad,” he notes. Regardless, he says Newton will stay true to its position of promoting a dynamic technology and a focus on efficiency which will continue to support what makes the brand unique. For Spring ’15, that involves updated materials, including the use of engineered mesh, higher-abrasion-resistant rubber compounds and greater use of no-sew heat welding techniques. A new five-lug Action/Reaction whole foot technology platform, which comes in

three variations to differentiate the shape, ride and feel, also allows the brand to expand its reach to runners of all sizes and abilities. For example, the company’s Kismet model ($129) features a seamless engineered mesh upper with structural support provided by heat welded overlays. Its five-lug P.O.P. 2 platform is beveled to offer a smoother ride. Heisner adds that Newton will continue to offer “bright, joyful color options” that the brand has become renowned for doing.

PUMA The company, which has Usain Bolt, the world’s fastest man, as a brand ambassador, reports its running business has been on a steady growth path of late. Key areas of focus include ongoing development of responsive cushioning technology, as well as continued expansion in head-to-toe visibility offerings.

A key introduction for Spring ’15 is the Faas 500 v4—built for the everyday runner seeking a minimal and lightweight cushioned training shoe. It features a new Everfit upper made of weave mesh to provide a lightweight, supportive fit. In addition, the Evertrack+ outsole rubber compound is 43 percent lighter than previous iterations and offers enhanced cushioning and durability for a smoother toe-off.

SKORA The Portland, OR-based brand is encouraged by strength in the lightweight and neutral categories.

“High-quality materials, durability and a more natural fit and ride continue to drive the R&D with respect to technology,” says David Sypniewski, founder and CEO of Skora. “I firmly believe that runners are seeking simpler and more ‘honest’ technologies from brands, and this has been what Skora has been offering from the get-go.”

A highlight in Skora’s Spring ’15 line is the Tempo ($130). The featherweight model, expected to come in at just under 7 ounces, offers an all-new third-generation zero-drop outsole with injected EVA and rubber pods, and a neutral 20-mm ride.

It also provides an airy mesh upper, asymmetric lacing and a secure-tongue fit. •

Newton Kismet

New Balance Fresh Foam Zante

Puma Faas 500 V4 Topo Athletic FliLyte

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LAST WORD

fit to print

London Calling Cat Footwear’s iconic Colorado boot pops back into fashion. By Lyndsay McGregor

An example of Walala’s interiors work at London nightclub XOYO.

WHAT DO YOU get when you cross a classic workman’s boot with a graphic art designer known for creating eye-popping murals and shop interiors? A bright and brash collection that’s not for the faint of heart, that’s what. Cat Footwear commissioned French-born, London-based Camille Walala to apply her quirky prints to its classic Colorado style for Spring ’15, and the results are striking. “The Colorado was huge in London during the grunge era of the early ’90s and, of late, we had noticed that some of the city’s influencers were gravitating back towards it,” notes Kelly Ballou, marketing manager for the Wolverine Worldwideowned license. As sales of the boot have begun to soar again across the pond, Cat decided to search for a collaborator who could jazz-up the style to boost sales stateside.

Cat’s U.K.-based Senior Designer Kirsty Bradford knew just the person for the job. Having seen Walala’s takeover of a London coffee shop (Think thick stripes of bold color going every which way.), Bradford knew the artist’s pop aesthetic could be exactly what Cat needed to appeal to a younger, city-dwelling consumer.

Walala was more than willing. “Recently I’ve been working on a much bigger scale, painting on walls and buildings, so it was really fun to work on a shoe,” she says, adding she was a wearer as well. “Cat is definitely part of my youth and I am so grateful to have been able to put my patterns on such an iconic ’90s shoe.”

While the men’s Colorado is accented by peekaboo prints on the tongue and footbed (“It’s a little safer for the male consumer,” Ballou admits.) the women’s styles go all Walala out. An unlined boot folds down to reveal a series of geometric shapes. Another is covered in an all-over print and placed atop a thick, white flatform sole. A creeper-style gets the graphic treatment, too. Walala, who worked hand-in-hand with Bradford to develop the prints exclusively for Cat, cites both the South African Ndebele tribe and optical art as her biggest inspirations. It’s an unashamedly loud look for the heritage boot company, and one that Ballou hopes will catch the attention of the 18- to 24-year-old demographic. “Obviously we have blue collar roots, but we think this is an interesting way to find new consumers,” she shares.

Cat debuted the line to U.S. buyers at the recent FFANY show in New York and Ballou reveals the reception was “fantastic.” So much so that the company is already thinking about continuing the collaboration through next fall. “Buyers loved it. They said it was fun, on-trend and that the bold graphics were an interesting spin for such a heritage-driven company,” she says.

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