BLOGGER COLLABS GO VIRAL • RIDING ON EASY STREET • TREND SPOTTING : A WITCH’S BREW
VOL. 24 • ISSUE 5 • JUNE 2014 • $10
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Thank you! 6,500 employees from 100 footwear companies donated over 15,000 hours to dozens of national, regional and local non-profits across 22 states during the month of April. National Footwear Cares Month highlights include: • 517,549 meals were sorted, packed and served to insecure families • 11,000 pairs of new shoes were distributed to children in need • 400 trees were planted and countless miles of highway, coastline, trails, and community parks were enhanced through hard work Thank you to everyone who helped make Footwear Cares such a success. Without the passion and enthusiasm of the shoe industry, none of this would have been possible.
Special thanks to our amazing sponsors!
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real. life. style.
adamtuckerfootwear.com
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JUNE 2014 Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Social Media Editor
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Bloggers for Dollars
Samantha Sciarrotta Assistant Editor
Brands are collaborating with fashion bloggers to drive consumer engagement, boost awareness and increase revenue. By Lyndsay McGregor
Kathy Passero Editor at Large Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer Judy Leand Contributing Editor
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Speak Easy
ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher
Keith Gossett, president of Easy Street Shoe Company, discusses why its formula of moderately priced comfort shoes rings the register. By Greg Dutter
Capri Crescio Advertising Manager Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager
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Do-Gooders
Allison Kastner Operations Manager
Thousands of industry volunteers took part in Two Ten’s first Footwear Cares Month. By Lyndsay McGregor
Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Joel Shupp Circulation Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director
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Chattanooga Shoe Shoe How Embellish Shoes has made its mark with a spot-on selection and top-notch customer service. By Samantha Sciarrotta
PA G E
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Trend Spotting Menswear-inspired materials dress up slippers and evening wear is back in black. By Angela Velasquez
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Rad Attitude Tricked out skateinspired slip-ons roll out for fashionistas. By Angela Velasquez
8 Editor’s Note 26 What’s Selling 42 Shoe Salon 44 E-beat 46 Street 48 Last Word
On the cover: Vans feather print slip-ons, Wes Gordon skirt, Chinti & Parker sweater, belt by Swash. Above: Shellys London chunky heel slip-on, sunglasses by Mercura NYC, Tanya Taylor shirt worn under ElevenParis T-shirt. Photography by Trevett McCandliss. Stylist: Claudia Talamas; prop stylist: Cecilia Elguero; hair and makeup: Alfred Lester/Utopia; model: Maria H./Major.
OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl. New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller
FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.
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R O C K P O R T. C O M © 2 0 14 T H E R O C K P O R T C O M PA N Y, L L C . R O C K P O R T ®
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EDITOR’S NOTE AT T E N T I O N A L L S H O P P E R S
The Age of Agoraphobia? Might brick-and-mortar shoe stores become extinct if consumers increasingly shop from home? EARTH HAS SURVIVED the dinosaur age, the Bronze Age, the Iron Age, the Industrial Age, the Space Age and is currently weathering the Information Age. Over the millennia there have been many other ages, including ice ages, the Golden Age and the Gilded Age. We’ve lived through the corner store age, the catalog age, the mall age, the strip mall age, the big box age, and we are in the salad days of the online age. The latter could also be dubbed the Amazon Age. The meteoric year-on-year growth of online retail sales mirrors its adolescence status. Like a voracious teenager, online dealers are gobbling up market share from brick-and-mortar retailers. Amazon’s first quarter sales, for example, spiked 23 percent to $19.74 billion. CEO Jeff Bezos described it as a “kinetic start,” and the behemoth is now testing its own delivery service in order to gain more control over its shipments— and grab even more market share. Its latest target is grocery stores with the launch of Prime Pantry, where Amazon’s Prime members can order as much food and household essentials as can fit in a 45-pound box for a flat $5.99 delivery fee. Amazon has also recently partnered with Twitter and will let users shop directly from posts made on the social network site. The belief is that Twitter members will be engaged longer with the addition of e-commerce. Seeing similar potential, Google recently launched Google Shopping Express, a same-day delivery service (“See it, click it, get it today.”) in Manhattan. The response was so great the first day that it overwhelmed the system. To whet the appetite of stay-at-home shoppers, Google is offering free delivery for the first six months and $10 off first orders. Soap.com is another household sundries-based online retailer that is blanketing New York subway cars of late with its offer of free overnight shipping on orders of $49 or more. Its hashtag: #saynotodrugstores. It begs the question: Does anyone want to leave their home anymore to shop? Granted, shopping for toilet paper, laundry detergent, toothpaste and such is no thrill, but the overall trend is the growing appeal of shopping without having to ever step foot inside an actual store. Delivery trucks are already jamming many streets and, if the reports are true, drones may one day clog the skies. It’s like an agoraphobia epidemic is sweeping the nation.
The key question is whether consumers increasingly feel this way when it comes to shoe shopping? The growth in online shoe sales proves more and more consumers are buying outside brick-and-mortar stores. The 24-7 convenience factor, attractive pricing and, perhaps most of all, breadth of selection that no store could ever dream of replicating, are factors. A numbing sameness of selection found in many stores coupled with deteriorating levels of service is also pushing consumers to shop virtually. Traditional retailers simply aren’t closing enough sales, observes Keith Gossett, president of Easy Street Shoe Company and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p.12). Based on his frequent retail reconnaissance missions, Gossett says there’s still plenty of traffic (thus opportunity) but not enough shoppers leaving with bags on their arms. In his estimation, these people are just “wandering.” Gossett, who has made a career working in this industry in retail and wholesale, warns that unless traditional retailers figure out a way to differentiate themselves, shoppers will continue to shift to buying online. While we’re not at the tipping point just yet, shoe shopping as we’ve known it might well be facing its biggest test to date. Unlike apparel—which is easier to ship and stock in a physical retail setting— shoes fit the online paradigm well. Just ask Zappos (and PlanetShoes, ShoeBuy, ShoeDazzle, JustFab, ShoeMint, etc.) how it’s been working out so far. As Gossett astutely observes, Easy Street’s substantial growth over the past decade in online sales is inversely proportional to the decline of brick-and-mortar retailers, primarily independents. Might this truly be the beginning of the end of the Shoe Store Age? Blockbuster, for comparison’s sake, is no more because the streaming competitors offered unparalleled selection, immediacy and convenience. Plus, it was never fun running to the local video store where, invariably, the movie you wanted to rent was out or not carried, and the irritable teens “working” there made the experience far from a joy. If that’s the case at your store then, as an old saying from the Space Age goes, “Houston, we have a problem.” Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
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SPECIAL REPORT
Bloggers for Dollars Brands are collaborating with fashion bloggers to drive consumer engagement, boost awareness and increase revenue. By Lyndsay McGregor WHEN ANNA WINTOUR found herself sitting next to 14-year-old Style Rookie blogger Tavi Gevinson at a Band of Outsiders runway show during New York Fashion Week three years ago, not even the Vogue editor in chief ’s signature shades could hide her disdain about the fashion world’s inner sanctum being invaded by a pint-sized interloper. Not that this was the first time Gevinson had been seated in the front row; no, the wunderkind had been sitting pretty at the likes of Christian Dior and Rodarte since she launched her blog at the age of 11. But it was the first time she had been seated next to the editrix and, one might say, bloggers had officially arrived. Like Gevinson, leading fashion bloggers offer fresh insight and influential opinion, often generating instant feedback from their legions of followers. Fans respond to their advice on what to wear and what to buy, and these bloggers have the power to introduce new brands and accelerate burgeoning trends. For millions of consumers, particularly younger-aged ones, they are the personal stylists residing in their smartphones. “Bloggers serve a variety of purposes for consumers, but none more important than curation,” says Rachel Lewis, senior strategist at iProspect, a digital marketing agency whose clients include Cole Haan and Converse. “In the shoe space, the consumer is faced with endless choices. Readers look to bloggers to help make those buying decisions easier through recommendations or endorsements.” Zappos Assistant Buyer Angela Gonzalez echoes this sentiment. “Whether we follow bloggers because we like their style, advice on different aspects of life or find them relatable as people, they’re giving us more options on how to interpret and be inspired by fashion,” she says. Lewis notes that bloggers serve retailers well, too, by delivering a highly engaged audience with a demonstrated interest in a particular category. That gives merchants the opportunity to win over consumers or re-engage existing ones. And with fashion bloggers’ uniquely deep engagement and influence, the ROI is much higher than, say, paying Kim Kardashian $10,000 for a tweet. Some of the better-known fashion blogs attract audiences in the hundreds of thousands per month and garner hundreds of comments per post. To put that in perspective, some personal style blogs have equal or, in some cases, bigger followings than many niche print fashion magazines.
According to the Technorati Digital Influence Report 2013, a study that surveyed 6,000 influencers, 1,200 consumers and 150 top brand marketers, fashion bloggers are 31.1 percent likely to influence a purchase, ranking behind retail sites (56 percent) and brand sites (34 percent), and ahead of online magazines (20 percent). It was only a matter of time before blogger-brand collaborations would arise. “Welcome to the new world of retail,” quips Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at the NPD Group. “It’s very simple: the younger generation lives and breathes by the Internet, and progressive brands are reaching out to bloggers and partnering with them in a way that can reach a much broader audience.” It’s a way to market to potential customers in a more conversational way, too. As Matt Priest, president of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America, explains, “You have a built-in group of interested consumers who obviously follow certain bloggers and trust their opinions, value their insight and find them humorous and interesting. It creates a natural opportunity for footwear companies to partner with them and find a way to speak to those followers through shoes.” Gonzalez calls these collaborations a fun and innovative way to add a new facet to an existing line. “It gives the customer a fresh, original appeal and gives the brand the opportunity to attract new consumers,” she says. Elena Brennan, owner of the Philadelphiabased boutique Bus Stop, who frequently invites her favorite local fashion bloggers to in-store events (their presence boosts sales) believes it’s “a natural progression” for bloggers to start designing shoes rather than simply donning gifted product for photo opps. Regina Smith Popp, DSW’s fashion trend manager, says blogger collabs bring a level of authenticity to the brand. “Once bloggers have established themselves as style mavens it makes sense to take that aesthetic and apply it to a brand and let their style DNA rub off to influence a collection,” she says. To wit, Leandra Medine, the fashion force behind The Man Repeller, has successfully collaborated with Miami-based Del Toro on a flamingo-adorned smoking slipper and Superga on a capsule collection of velvet and bouclé sneakers that’s available at the likes of Kitson, Urban Outfitters and Bloomingdale’s. Steve Madden, meanwhile, has teamed with Italian >45
From top: Bip Ling’s colorful collection for Pretty Ballerinas; Grace Atwood of Stripes & Sequins put a sparkly spin on Matt Bernson’s flats; The Man Repeller dressed up Superga’s sneakers in velvet and bouclé.
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F FA N Y AMERICAS HALL II | BOOTH #2005
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BY GREG DUTTER
SPEAK EASY
KEITH GOSSETT, PRESIDENT OF EASY STREET SHOE COMPANY, DISCUSSES WHY ITS FORMULA OF MODERATELY PRICED COMFORT STYLES AIMED PRIMARILY AT MIDDLE-AGED WOMEN MAY NOT SOUND ALL THAT SEXY, BUT IT SURE RINGS THE REGISTER. SCHEWING HYPE AND hypotheticals, Keith Gossett, president of Easy Street Shoe Company and makers of Easy Street, Tuscany by Easy Street and Bella Vita brands, tells it like it is. He speaks about the proven capabilities of what his company offers to the marketplace. Gossett, who has spent his entire career in this industry (including managerial stints in retail), speaks from experience and understands both sides of the equation. His invaluable perspective coupled with a candid honesty is a breath of fresh air. With Gossett, what you see is what you get, and the same goes for Easy Street Shoe Company. “Our customer can count on seeing a breadth of comfort casuals available in an extensive range of sizes and widths at a moderate price point,” Gossett offers. “And our retail partners will have an in-stock program to support them.” The basic formula has led to more than a decade of steady growth for the New Hampshire-based company. Sales in particular have spiked to double-digit gains the past few years thanks largely to the Internet. “Our online partners have been driving a lot of our sales of late, reaching consumers we never knew were even out there,” he says. While the Easy Street formula is easy enough to explain, it’s far from easy to implement and maintain. “The fact is most wholesalers don’t want to or can’t do what we do,” Gossett says, citing primarily the financial requirements and risks involved. “We have the customer they don’t want, the sizes and widths they don’t want to invest in making and the inven-
tory levels they don’t want to risk carrying. And we probably have the turns that they don’t want.” But Gossett views those negatives as opportunities, which amount to Easy Street’s reason for being. “If I decided tomorrow to take the sizes and widths and in-stock availability aspects out of our formula—the foundation of our business—we wouldn’t last five years,” he predicts. “We’d be just another brand trying to compete on style. But if we continue to offer the right shoes in the right balance, the right assortment and in sizes and widths, then I expect we’ll continue to grow.” Gossett believes consumers are flocking to the company’s portfolio of brands—the Italian-made Tuscany by Easy Street being the most recent debut this spring—because it zeros in on the wants and needs of a customer base that many brands consider taboo. Specifically, women 40 and over who are in desperate need of a broad selection of comfort casuals available in an extensive range of sizes and widths. “I understand that our market might not be the sexiest or cutest, but they do need and buy a lot of shoes,” Gossett offers, adding that the brand embraces its target
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O&A audience. “You will not see Easy Street ads featuring a 22-year-old woman because, to be perfectly honest, that woman isn’t wearing our shoes,” he says. “Sure, every now and then one gets confused and buys a pair, but we’re not trying to sell to her.” Gossett lets prospective retailers know this right away. “If a buyer comes into our booth and asks whom our customer is, the response very well could be, ‘She’s older than you,’” he laughs. “Sometimes they’ll respond, ‘Is that a good thing?’ And I’ll say, ‘Unless they are going barefoot, then it’s a good thing.’” Gossett adds, “I’m a salesman and I want to sell shoes. If someone 81 years old buys a pair of Easy Streets, then I think she’s a wonderful individual. They are all welcome.” The fact that Easy Street is comfortable within its own skin makes What are you reading? Inside it unlike a lot of comfort brands that Apple by Adam Lashinsky. have suffered recurring identity crises thanks to a revolving door of re-posiWhat is inspiring you right tions. Often it’s been driven by the fear now? I recently spent 10 days of being associated with woman older in Italy working with our facthan 30. So these brands try to skew tory partner on our Tuscany younger in design and marketing, but by Easy Street program. Their also leave a neglected customer base craftsmanship and creativity is for Easy Street to capture. Along those very inspiring. lines, Easy Street’s aim is to interpret the latest trends into wearable fashWhat famous person in hisions, rather than trying to set the fashtory do you admire? Steve ion pace. And that speaks directly to Jobs, for his creativity and his their target consumer. “Our interpremarketing ability. tations of current trends may include some color or ornamentation to jazz it What is your motto? up,” Gossett explains. “But when I’m Anything’s possible. asked what the new colors for a season are, I say, ‘The ones people can Who would be your most wear.’ It does us no good to develop coveted dinner guest? Of a strappy sandal in an assortment of late, I’ve enjoyed watching crazy colors that no one will wear.” He adds, “If you can’t attribute volume to it, then we don’t believe that’s where Easy Street should be.” That volume-based positioning leads to Easy Street’s massive in-stock program that carries upwards of 500,000 pairs on select items. While other brands offer similar programs, few go to the breadth and extent of Easy Street—a level that has only increased of late to meet its growing online demand. “Our available inventory is at four or five times the level of what it was six years ago,” Gossett confirms. “You’re not going to find that level of commitment in this industry.” That’s largely because it requires placing huge bets that most wholesalers are unwilling or unable to wager. As Gossett explains, “You better have done your homework and trust your instincts if you backup orders that big.” It helps that Gossett has been at the helm of Easy Street for the past 18 years and that he and his team have a sixth sense when it comes to knowing their consumer. The team also understands the tremendous value the ability to re-order provides its retailers. “Whether they are an independent or a major, the ability to fill-in instead of waiting for months is very attractive,” he notes. “It’s been a critical aspect to our success.” Another factor contributing to Easy Street’s success lies in its flexibility and speed. Specifically, being independently owned is what Gossett says enables the company to turn on a dime. “It doesn’t take a committee to get things
done around here,” he offers. “When we get our hands on something that works, our team knows how to maximize that opportunity.” Going forward, Gossett sees plenty of continued growth opportunities for Easy Street. In five years, he projects the company could be twice its current size. For starters, its consumer base isn’t going anywhere, plus there are fewer competitors to its unique business formula. Nevertheless, Gossett, a selfdescribed “conservative guy,” keeps his company’s expectations within reason. “The company is growing at a nice pace, but I won’t let it go any faster than we can handle,” he says. “There are more pieces involved than just selling a lot more shoes. We have to be realistic and be able to deliver on our expectations.”
OFF THE CUFF
the show “Shark Tank,” and I would love to have dinner with (panelist and entrepreneur) Mark Cuban.
Carrying several hundred thousand pairs on the expectation they will sell: That’s a strategy not for the meek of heart, correct? It isn’t. But we have a good track record. What is your least favorite A lot of it involves a gut reaction as well word? Can’t. as a willingness to take risks. You eventually have to just step off the curb and What sound do you love? The make a decision. But it’s not like we are ocean. all just guessing here. There are plenty of conversations within our very expeWhat is your favorite homerienced team—a lot of how, why and town memory? I’m from where when it comes to determining Miami, FL, and it relates back which styles to pile in our warehouse. to living near the ocean. It was There are no tricks, really. For example, a unique place to grow up. with our new Tuscany by Easy Street There were some challenges, collection, I bought a 100 percent but it was a nice experience increase on every pair we just ordered overall. In fact, nice enough from the factory. Not a lot of compathat I just bought a place nies do that. If they sell 20,000 pairs, down there so I must be going they aren’t going to buy 40,000 pairs full-circle. and carry the extra 20,000 pairs in case somebody might call. But we feel confident in taking that risk. Easy Street, in general, is a different school of thought, and the inventory aspect in particular is a big part of that concept. Teamwork, a gut instinct, risks taking… What else? It involves one of my pet peeves: You have to stop talking so much and really listen to what retailers are saying. Everybody has something to contribute. Now that doesn’t mean what’s coming out of their mouths is all gospel, but they do have contributions to make. You just have to be smart enough to put the right value on those contributions. There are a lot of smart people in this business and if you listen and work with them, you can increase your opportunities to be successful. What are retailers saying right now? Many are saying this spring started off slow, which is no big secret. They are being very conservative in their thoughts and plans, but they are also optimistic. For example, in the southern areas of the country, where the market didn’t start as slow, we’ve gotten some very strong responses and we are getting reorders. So we feel very optimistic right now, as well. We believe if we keep putting fresh merchandise in front of our customer, she is going to buy.
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M FROM THE from with Italy love AURIZIO
DESIGNER
This fall/winter ‘14, there is a new and exciting shift in direction. The focus is now on innovation in fabrics and a refined simplicity in garment shapes. It is time to blend inspirations from the past with fresh fabric developments to create clean, bold statement silhouettes. The colour direction seems to be a growing confidence in colours right now. This winter, there is still a dependency on classic, “safe” colour, but the proportion of brights has increased, and these give a lively edge to the season. The mixture of pattern and texture is still very much a way to make a classic colour look new again; contemporary tweeds and intricate structures brought from menswear fabrics mixed with glove nappa on pop colours like spices, yellows and oranges, dark teal, blues and greens, make a considerable mark on more traditional combinations.
UPCOMING SHOWS
FFaNY
Suite 1001
1370 Avenue of the Americas
The footwear trend direction this season shows in all trend stories some degree of surrealism. What is considered normal is being redefined; luxury classic and sporty casual is a right way to give a new fresh look to traditional shapes like pumps, loafers, lace ups, and booties. I try to translate this mood on Fall ‘14 Poetic Licence collection using elegant, beautifully designed textiles with natural soft nappa, patent, and animal print - to create a retro vibe. The mood for PL is “ladylike with a touch of punk anarchy”, including overt references to retrò styling culled from the 1940s and ‘50s with a nod to the ‘80s of Cindy Lauper in “Girls Just Want to Have Fun”. A colour palette of warm browns offset with teal and pops of brights. Heritage tailored fabrics with traditional masculine suitings are contrasted by soft brushed calf and nappa; while skin prints and masculine influence can be brought into play with very feminine details (like patent and metallic trims), and ornaments (like bows and flowers). Mid-height heel, but stacked a little sexy in shape, complete the couture look. I hope you enjoy what’s coming for the upcoming season. -Maurizio
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www.consolidatedshoe.com | www.musthaveshoes.com FOR MORE INFORMATION, CALL 434.239.0391 5/21/14 11:56 AM
O&A Beyond fresh merchandise, what are the leading factors causing her to buy Easy Street? For sure, it’s our extensive range of styles available in sizes and widths. I would say 95 percent of the shoes we carry come in narrow, medium, wide and extra wide—43 sizes and four widths. I will not do business with a manufacturer if we cannot support that size range. We are determined to make sure that’s our niche in the marketplace, and our customers are responding. For example, if she wears a 10 wide or even a more obscure 9 double wide, we are not offering just three styles. She will be able to shop about 50 styles in her size. It’s like shopping a store’s full selection. We feel comfortable in that we offer her a wardrobe. If she wants an evening shoe, we’ve got it. A summer sandal, we’ve got it. A boot, we’ve got it. And we’ve got a wide calf boot, too. If she wants a more contemporary or trendy style (at a slightly higher price point), we’ve got Bella Vita. And Tuscany is the same approach with the cachet of being made in Italy. The only reason any of it exists at Easy Street, however, is that it’s available in sizes and widths. We won’t walk away from that business, especially since some of our competitors have pulled back on their offerings in this segment. There doesn’t seem to be much ambiguity with respect to what Easy Street offers or much deviation from the concept. My theory in life: Anything you do, commit to doing it. That said you always have to be repositioning, to some extent. You need to look at opportunities that can enhance what you currently do. If we think a new comfort construction will enhance our sandal business, then we will spend a lot
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of time and money to put that program together. But Easy Street doesn’t make large leaps. I’m not going to show something that goes into a totally different direction. It’s about taking what we do and making it better. We have to be able to adjust to the market, but still speak to our core consumer. Besides, retailers are pretty sharp folks. If we go off the deep end with something, they’ll just smile and tell us to put it back down. It sounds simple enough, but is it really? There are always difficulties, like with sourcing issues in the Far East that makes it a little more challenging today. But, at the same time, there are things you can’t change and you just have to figure out how to adapt and work within those guidelines and opportunities. I hear complaints all the time about how hard the business is today. But I’m not the doom-andgloom guy. You’ll never see me complain like that. I just look at the opportunities, because I’m an optimist first and foremost. Now, have I launched programs that have been total disasters? Absolutely. But am I going to cry about it? No. I accept it, try and figure out what I did wrong and then try something else. I’m always working for that next opportunity. Amid a very challenging retail climate and a lot of the diversification going on in the industry, if you let all that negative stuff make you crazy, then you are never going to get anywhere. How has the Tuscany by Easy Street debut been received? It’s been absolutely fantastic and has exceeded everybody’s expectations. Of our current top 15 drop-ship selling styles, every Italian-made style is
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represented. We are expanding our made-in-Italy program going forward, which our partners are very capable of handling. In what ways is the Tuscany product different from Easy Street? The real difference is it truly looks like an Italian-made product, which reflects a different taste level. The details, materials and weaves on some patterns are special. If you mix both Easy Street collections in a room, retailers could pick out the Italian shoes in 30 seconds, probably. At the same time, they still speak to our core customer. As a result, I think we are getting her as well as attracting new customers. Does Made in Italy still hold a level of cachet with consumers? I believe so. The bonus is now they can buy that cachet in a 10 wide, a 12 narrow or whatever the case may be. Also, of late there’s been a large retailer in our region (New England) running an extensive prime time TV campaign promoting its selection of Italian-made handbags, shoes and accessories. What is interesting and encouraging is the people featured in the commercials are in their twenties and the designs are aimed at that audience as well. This retailer wouldn’t be going to this expense if they though the Made in Italy aspect was meaningless. Any new launches in the works? Yes. We’ve spent considerable time developing a new sub-brand that is more technical and, for a lack of a better term, is more orthotic-designed casual comfort footwear. There’s been a lot of success of late with orthotic
type concepts, and this is our version for our customer. We’ll be introducing it at FFANY this month. At this point, it’s called Easy Motion by Easy Street. It’s taking what’s been working for us and making it more technical and, based on the time and energy that we’ve put into the program, better. And that’s better for the consumer and better for the retailer, because it gives them more to talk about. But we won’t go crazy, it will be a small package of sandals that, when she puts the shoe on, she’ll feel an immediate difference thanks to our built-in comfort features. And they’ll be priced similarly as other Easy Street shoes, mainly between $49 to $59 retail. What’s your assessment of retail in general right now? When I walk into malls of late I think the environment is challenging. Aside from those who might be on a mission looking for a particular item, how many people are actually carrying bags? Not nearly enough, from what I’m seeing. If they don’t have shopping bags then all they are doing, in my opinion, is wandering. These retailers haven’t closed the sale. While no one is going to like to hear this, part of the problem is the consumer can pretty much see the same thing from one end of a mall to the other. There’s no uniqueness. That makes it really easy for the consumer to go online and look for something unique. If she wants cobalt blue shoes because she just bought a dress in that color but can’t find it in her local mall, she’ll go online and find plenty of cobalt blue shoe opportunities. To that end, we’ve made a huge investment with our sizes and widths offering. We believe retailers have an opportunity to stay in business if they offer sizes and widths and service that customer. That’s >47
One shoe. Two widths. Like us on facebook.com/alegriashoes
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DO-GOODERS THE FOOTWEAR INDUSTRY CAME OUT IN FORCE FOR TWO TEN’S FIRST FOOTWEAR CARES MONTH. BY LYNDSAY MCGREGOR
HAPPY. ECSTATIC. OVERJOYED. Overwhelmed. Those were only a few of the emotions felt by Two Ten President Neal Newman when the foundation’s first-ever Footwear Cares Month drew to a close at the end of April. “It was an absolute grand slam,” he states. “To be part of something aimed at unifying an entire industry and getting more than 100 companies and 6,500 volunteers in 22 states to take part—it’s just unbelievable.” After a successful inaugural Footwear Cares Week in 2013, and to celebrate the organization’s 75th anniversary, Two Ten decided to broaden this year’s event to span the entire month of April. “We were able to get 68 companies to participate in our first year, but there were a lot of people who could not work in that one-week time frame due to business operations. The notion was, if we can get that many people involved in one week, what could we do if we opened it up for a month?” says Maureen Lederhos, Two Ten’s director of marketing, noting that title sponsor Amazon Fashion helped provide the resources required to make it happen. This year’s dramatically expanded lineup of community services spanned serving meals to the homeless and packing groceries for senior citizens to planting trees and painting ballparks. “There was a great sense of camaraderie. It really put the unity in community,” she adds. Participating companies and event sponsors included New Balance, Zappos, DSW, Skechers, Puma, Rockport, Dansko, UPS, Allina Health, Footwear Plus, The Jonas Group, National Shoe Travelers, Footwear Distributors & Retailers of America, National Shoe Retailers
Two Ten President Neal Newman (top left, middle) packed peas with Amazon and Topline at Northwest Harvest in Kent, WA.
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EMBELLISH, A CHATTANOOGA BOUTIQUE, HAS MADE ITS MARK WITH A SPOT-ON SELECTION AND TOP-NOTCH CUSTOMER SERVICE. BY SAMANTHA SCIARROTTA
Terri Holley, at right, inspects a shoe in her Tennessee boutique.
Chatanooga Shoe Shoe IT’S AN ALL-TOO common retail tale of woe: Women in search of that elusive boot or perfect heel come up short and, regrettably but inevitably, move on to make other discretionary and needed purchases. If it can’t be found, it simply won’t be bought. About a decade ago, Terri Holley was not only such a frequently frustrated shoe shopper, she knew legions of others who were shopping in vain. A master consultant with the New York-based Connaught Group at the time, the Chattanooga, TN, resident was working with women to craft the perfect headto-toe look from its Carlisle clothing line, which included putting together entire wardrobes for her high-end clients. However, her local shoe market often failed her when it came to finding the brands and styles she knew her customers would love. So Holley took the proactive approach and opened her own boutique, Embellish, in November of 2005. It was the perfect combination of skill sets for Holley, who has worked in retail since she was a teenager and had graduated from the University of Alabama with a finance degree. “I feel like I have a great eye for fashion, but I can also do my own books,” she offers. “A background in matters like inventory management is important.” In fact, the buying aspect has been the hardest part for Holley to master, even though it’s a labor of love. She still second-guesses some of her merchandise decisions—even ones made years ago. “I still buy things and wonder why I went after them,” she says. “But as long as 90 per-
cent of what I buy is working, I’ll be okay.” While Holley says she is guilty of investing in a few trends a little too soon, she’s jumped in with other brands, like Cordani, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman, at just the right time. “They have consistently been some of our best-performing brands,” she explains. “I also feel that we bought Tory Burch and Sam Edelman just as they were really gaining stronger momentum in the market, and they have certainly performed well for us.” She echoed the same sentiment for Pedro Garcia, one of the store’s most recent successful additions. Embellish first opened on Chattanooga’s North Shore, what Holley describes as a quaint neighborhood with an “eclectic retail environment,” nestled in a desirable, historic residential area. Holley says the initial years were prosperous—until 2008’s recession hit and forced big and small retailers all around her to fold. Holley knew in order to avoid that same fate, she’d have to make some changes. While her peers started paring down staffs, that was the one option Holley would not even consider; she loved her staff and its dedication and “didn’t want to do anything to sacrifice service.” So she found other ways to cut costs. “I stopped all advertising,” she remembers. “I didn’t take one penny out of the business. Everything we made went into the store. Even with buying, I managed my expenses very closely. That is part of what saved us.” Bills, inventory, payroll and other essential costs stayed in the budget, but Holley didn’t spend on anything that wasn’t necessary for day-to-day operations. Her
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see the value in the shoes. They’re not the type to buy once and wear once.” Holley recalls a recent customer who purchased three pairs of shoes for around $1,000. She talked through the pros and cons of each style with Holley before eventually deciding to scoop up all three. “Our customers like to justify their purchases,” she offers. It’s interactions like those that Holley says THE BIG MOVE keep her customers coming back. “I try to Back in 2009, when the economy hit the skids, be honest and sincere. I’m not just being a Embellish moved a short distance geographisalesperson,” she says. “I am here to sell a cally (4 miles), but it has made a world of difproduct, but if I think something doesn’t ference. The new digs were the city’s Warehouse fit right or look good, I’m not going to sell Row, a Civil War fort-turned-warehouseit.” And her staff does the same. “I tell my turned-retail center. Previously, the space staff that I’d rather have a customer leave was occupied by high-level outlet stores like empty-handed than leave with a product Ralph Lauren but the concept failed to lure that’s not right. The customers apprecienough customers. Developer Jamestown LP, ate that.” In fact, Holley believes her store’s owners of spaces like Manhattan’s Chelsea customer service is what really sets it apart Market and Atlanta’s White Provision buildfrom other boutiques. She doesn’t have an ing, purchased the property and sought a new online store, which she grapples with daily, mix of retailers—Embellish along with highbut feels she ultimately made the right call. end accessories store Amanda Pinson Jewelry “I believe we’re doing something right,” she and luxury home goods retailer Revival. The offers. “We’re providing an experience that three shops fit the upscale vision the developisn’t available online. We take care of our ers had for the space. “It was a really positive Terri Holley in her element. customers and always stand behind our thing,” Holley notes. “We were able to act as products. The high-quality customer sergood stewards for the community and we felt vice really makes a difference.” The staff, Holley says, goes “above and beyond” like the building needed a revitalization.” More importantly, the stores created every day, whether it’s talking a customer through a purchasing decision or a collective vibe, sharing some customer overlap. “We definitely found that staying after hours to sweep up. “Their combined work ethic never ceases to we created this synergy. We feed off of one another,” Holley says. amaze me,” she states. Embellish’s new space is large and inviting, with brick lining the interior Holley notes that there is very little turnover as far as her staff of six fulland exterior. Holley decorates the store with flowers and stylish overhead time, part-time and contract employees goes, ensuring knowledgeable and lighting fixtures, and shoes and handbags are displayed on cream-colored helpful customer service. She looks for hardworking, energetic employees shelves that coordinate with one of the store’s walls. with their own personal style who can bring a fresh perspective to the store. Beyond the great location, inviting decor and an enticing selection, Holley She only finds potential candidates via word of mouth. She has never had swears by three retailing rules helping achieve success: a loyal client base, a to fire an employee, and anyone she hires goes through a rigorous process personable, well-trained staff and sound financial management. “It takes all including at least three interviews, a very thorough background check (durthree, daily,” she explains. In contrast, Holley has seen many of her peers open ing which Holley “grills” any references she finds) and extensive sales trainstores “for fun,” just to cater to their friends. But a store like that rarely lasts. ing during which employees are educated on everything from designers and “You have to run it like a business,” she notes. “You need to maintain a prostyles to sales tactics. fessional relationship with your clients. If you work hard and manage your It’s all necessary to sustain the honest, ethical atmosphere Holley has culexpenses, you can be successful. But it takes all of those elements.” tivated over the years. “People stop by and see us even if they don’t plan on Along those lines, Holley plays a part in every aspect of the store’s day-tobuying something,” Holley offers. That hospitality often extends beyond store day operations, from crunching numbers to vacuuming the floor. She never hours. Embellish hosts in-store events like clothing line previews, trunk shows asks an employee to do something she’s not willing to do herself, which is why for brands like Stuart Weitzman and Cole Haan and book signings, as well as she doesn’t hesitate to take out the trash or analyze the store’s finances “from private shopping events that Holley donates three times a year to local chardaylight to dusk,” five to six days a week. ity auctions. The highest bidder receives two hours of shopping time with a group of friends after the store closes, including complimentary wine and CHATTANOOGA CHARMS cheese as well as a discount. “It’s a really nice event,” she says. Holley, originally from Mobile, AL, has lived in Chattanooga for the past 15 For now, Holley plans to hold Embellish to just one location, but she hasn’t years, on top of the three years she spent living in the city during the early ruled out opening a second store some day. “It just hasn’t felt right yet,” she ’90s. She knows the city, she knows its women and she knows what they explains. “There are a couple of markets I have my eye on. It’s not out of the want out of their footwear. Style-wise, they lean upscale casual. They’re in the market for shoes like wedges that they can pair with jeans one day and realm of possibility.” In the meantime, she plans to own the business for at a sundress the next. Her customers crave a shoe that looks good, feels good least five more years, but beyond that, she envisions someone else taking the and holds its value even better. Brands that fit the criteria, like Michael Kors, helm, perhaps an employee or one of her daughters, Ann Elizabeth, 23, and Kate Spade, Cordani and Pedro Garcia, are top sellers. You won’t see her cliSara, 19. It would be especially fitting for Ann Elizabeth, who currently works ents in a sky-high stiletto or edgy platform heel. Rather, they tend to hit the with Sam Edelman in New York. Holley doesn’t force it, though. “They might middle ground between high-fashion and high-comfort. “They’re very fashnot be interested,” she says. “There is no specific succession plan, though I ion-forward but with a slant toward a more classic, conservative style,” Holley do have some in mind.” observes. “They’re a little more timeless.” When Holley does eventually retire, it will be her co-workers she misses Her customers like to strike a balance price-wise, too. “It’s a relatively affluent the most. She says the “biggest blessing” is the women she gets to work with community, but it’s very conservative in its spending,” she observes. “Inherent every day. “I’m sort of mentoring them, but they have taught me so much, too,” value in a product is very important. If they’re going to splurge, they need to she says. “They’re the most wonderful women in the world.” • sacrifices allowed Embellish to stay afloat. After that down period, she says Embellish has gotten back on track, experiencing double-digit growth over the last few years, due in part to a more positive economic climate in Chattanooga and a very fortuitous change of address for Embellish.
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w hat ’s se lli n g b out i que s
STANLEY EISENMAN FINE SHOES Fort Worth, TX TANLEY EISENMAN WAS born to sell shoes—literally. His father, David, started his first footwear business in 1950, the year Stanley was born, and it’s been in his “DNA ever since.” Eisenman started out in the warehouse of Monnig’s department store, eventually working his way onto the sales floor, and then later joined his father in the family business in 1987. Ever since, a handful of Stanley Eisenman Fine Shoes locations have come and gone, and today there are two stores: the 4,100-square-foot Camp Bowie space and a second location in Forth Worth’s Trinity Commons. They are filled with a diverse collection of shoes, handbags and jewelry, i.e. the “finest products in the market” backed by “old-fashioned service.” It’s been a recipe for success that spans a broad customer base of women, regardless of the size or shape of their feet. In fact, Stanley Eisenman Fine Shoes specializes in hard-to-fit sizes that Eisenman credits with fostering an extremely loyal clientele. But Eisenman stresses these are not your run-of-the-mill comfort sit and fit stores. It’s a selection and an ambiance that continues to set Stanley Eisenman Fine Shoes apart from increasingly tough competition. “We have upholstered chairs, parquet flooring, marble buildups,” Eisenman says. “It’s very salon-like.” —Samantha Sciarrotta Top-selling brands and styles this spring: Pas de Rouge, AGL, Paul Mayer, Mephisto, Donald J. Pliner and Arche have been really big. Pedro Garcia’s Candela slingback bootie (top right) is probably our most popular style. What are some of the hottest colors this season? We have sold a lot of coral and turquoise. We’ve created a very colorful store for spring. Of course, neutrals and metallic shades are always a hit. How’s business overall? It’s been a really good spring. March to April is our busiest period because we host a lot of trunk shows. We’ve done seven two-day shows since March, and they generate a lot of excitement in the store. What is the best new label you’ve added this season? Pedro Garcia is new to us this season after a successful trunk show. Johnston & Murphy for women has also been a nice addition. They’re priced around $175 to the low $200s, which is perfect for our customers. Who is your core customer? Anybody from the working lady to the soccer mom to the matron who shops for fun. It really is anybody and everybody. What is she looking for in a shoe? Our customers are definitely more fashionforward with an eye on comfort. They like brands like Stuart Weitzman, whose shoes are lined with ultrasuede, and Pedro Garcia, which has a fabulous footbed construction. While we never really want to put comfort in the forefront, it’s surely a nice byproduct. These shoes look good and feel good. What are some of your bestselling handbags? Hammitt Los Angeles, for sure. The leathers are the softest, most luxurious out there. The hardware is outstanding, 24 karat gold-plated. Some are reversible, so you’re getting two
Pedro Garcia
bags in one. The handles are adjustable. And they’re domestically made—our customers love made in the U.S.A. products. Are your customers more optimistic about spending of late? They are very optimistic and enjoying the good economy. We have a healthy business climate in Texas: real estate prices are reasonable and so many companies are relocating to here. It’s the fastest growing state in the country. What have you done differently this year? We’ve tried marketing the store to a younger demographic with an ambassador program. We meet with twentysomethings at the store and charge them with getting the community excited about what we have to offer by handing out discount cards and spreading the word. What has been the worst thing about this season? I shouldn’t complain about weather, but it wasn’t that great. My quest is to be busy every day. I need to be generating traffic on a daily basis, but the store was empty some days. What trends are you high on for this fall? I’m expecting another good boot season—all heights and shapes, flats and heels. What is the smartest business move you’ve ever made? I’ve never signed a lease to go inside a mall because the rent is prohibitive. I’ve always preferred to operate freestanding stores. Malls in America are decaying. We provide a more civilized way to shop. You can park in front of our store, walk in and get the full retail experience. Do you host any events? We do a night called “Shoes and Booze,” which is an after-hours, catered event. We also do events outside the store, like “Wine, Women and Shoes.” Local boutiques set up tables around a fashion show and dinner, and the proceeds go to charity. We have been able to sell some products, make donations and get some new customers in the process. Women like to support the community. What else makes your stores unique? We’re old-fashioned. We’ll sit you down and give you the full service. We carry sizes like super slims and narrows and widths that even stores like Nordstrom have gone away from. Is there any trend you’d like to see go away? No. It’s fun to see what designers offer in their collections each season. We look to them to be innovative so we can build on that.
26 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2014
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TREND SPOTTING
Dapper Dreams Menswear-inspired materials dress up slippers. 1. Bearpaw 2. Sorel 3. Vionic 4. Bedroom Athletics 5. Woolrich
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TREND SPOTTING
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Dark, dramatic and lush with embellishment— black casts a bewitching allure for evening. 1. Blossom platform pump with black crystals 2. Ankle strap pump by Elliott Lucca with animal print details 3. Ivy Kirzhner pony hair pump with cut-outs 4. Bionda Castana lace bootie 5. Black pump by Badgley Mischka 6. Delman caged sandal 7. Luichiny stiletto with fringe tassel.
P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I SS
Back in Black
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Sperry Top-Sider slip-ons, Longchamp top, skirt by Swash, Preen sweater worn around waist.
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United Nude geometric print slip-ons, French Connection skirt, top by Tanya Taylor, Jonathan Saunders tote bag. Opposite: Hologram croc pattern slip-on by Bronx, top by Swash.
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Pony hair sneakers by Jinny Kim, Cynthia Rowley skirt, Preen jacket worn backwards, sunglasses by Mercura NYC. Opposite: Dr. Scholl’s polka-dot pony hair slip-ons, Preen dress, Equipment jacket.
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BC Footwear slip-ons, Tanya Taylor dress, Swash socks. Opposite: Shellys London chunky heel slip-on, sunglasses by Mercura NYC, Tanya Taylor shirt worn under Eleven Paris T-shirt.
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Puma snakeskin print slip-ons, dress by Suno, Longchamp jacket. Opposite: Zebra-stripe tennies by Keds, headpiece by WXYZ Jewelry, Tanya Taylor jacket, vintage T-shirt, Mother jeans. Fashion editor: Angela Velasquez; stylist: Claudia Talamas; prop stylist: Cecilia Elguero; hair and makeup: Alfred Lester/Utopia; model: Maria H./Major
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EDITOR’S PICKS
Riding High Lush materials take the classic riding boot up a notch.
Minna Parikka
THE ADVENTURIST MINNA PARIKKA IS living her teenage dream. “When I was 15 years old my big sister wrote an article about the shoe designer Andrea Pfister for a women’s magazine. It was like lightning struck me. ‘Wow, someone can think about shoes all day long for their profession!’ So when I turned 19, I packed my bags and moved to England to study footwear design,” the Helsinki native recalls. Her childlike zeal for all things spontaneous, quirky and risky hasn’t ceased. Known for imaginative designs outfitted with bunny ears, heart-shaped cut-outs and hail-sized chunks of glitter, since 2005 Parikka has garnered a following of It girls, models and celebrities, not to mention women in their 70s. “Luckily there are people who want shoes that cannot be found on every street corner and on every girl,” she quips. The Fall ’14 collection is a nod to animalistic fashion, toying with sleek feline-inspired silhouettes and more bunny-eared, cotton-tailed sweetness, or as Parikka puts it, “the curious contradictions between predator and prey.” An emphasis is placed on flats and block heels, as well as masculine oxfords and Chelsea boots for practicality. Rich autumnal hues popped with shades of pink and red bring out the richness of buttery nappa, silk suede, textured leathers and patent accents. “My guideline is: May these shoes lead you to new adventures. My inspiration comes from my love of shoes and fashion as well as filling my life with as much activity and contrast as possible,” she explains. The label, which initially caught on in Japan, is
now familiar across the world. Parikka is targeting high-level department stores, concept stores and online dealers in the U.S. Retail prices range from $250 to $700. And don’t let the whimsical details fool you. Manufactured in Spain, the detailoriented designer says she pays close attention to crafting her line with high quality materials and artistry. “I’m lucky that I can wear shoes with bunny ears when I negotiate business figures and be taken seriously,” she adds. —Angela Velasquez What was your first footwear memory? White tights and patent Mary Janes at my kindergarten’s holiday party. I felt so proud and important looking like a doll. How do your designs make you feel? Every super heroine needs her outfit. Every time I wear a pair of my heels I change as a person. I become more confident and ready to take on the world. Describe your design aesthetic. Expressive, playful, feminine, colorful, vibrant and in a universe of its own. Which designers do you admire most? I love a lot of new London-based designers like Mary Katrantzou, Mother of Pearl and Ostwald Helgason. I also admire Opening Ceremony for taking over so many fields of fashion with their own brand, concept stores and collaborations. Which shoes in your closet are getting the most wear? I have been living in Hong Kong for the past three months researching the Asian market and getting inspired by this part of the world. The pace of life is fast here, and I live on a hill so my brand new bunny sneakers are being worn a lot. Which season do you like to design for most? I like designing for all seasons. It’s nice to contrast tropical colored summer collections with darker hues in winter. You can go all out in the summer, whereas in winter shapes are heavier and more practical.
The Office of Angela Scott
Ecco
Johnston & Murphy
Woolrich
EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES
DESIGNER CHAT
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THE NEW STARTS NOW ON JULY 30, 2014 THE TIME HAS COME: GDS TAKES PLACE WITH EARLIER DATES AND NEW POSITIONING, BECOMING THE GLOBAL DESTINATION FOR SHOES & ACCESSORIES. A COMPLETELY NEW CONCEPT AND NEW TIMEFRAME MAKE GDS THE OPENING INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR FOR THE INDUSTRY. From July 30 to August 1, 2014 and from February 4 to 6, 2015, retailers can get all the information they need to start planning their product lines in the most efficient way.
THE MODERN PULSE
NEW CONCEPT PROVIDES THE BEST ORIENTATION FOR VISITORS
GDS is divided into three worlds: “HIGHSTREET – THE MODERN PULSE” covers the spectrum ranging from modern and sporty to traditional. Brands such as Ara, Camel, Gabor, Lloyd, Mephisto, s.Oliver, Wortmann and many more are represented here. International exhibitors include Clarks, Donna Carolina, Kangaroos, Buffalo, Manas, Skechers, Unisa and Vagabond. New exhibitors In HIGHSTREET are: Lacoste, Gant Footwear, Marc O’Polo, Napapijri, Giesswein and Viking. In the comfort range, Birkenstock, Finn Comfort, Ganter, Sioux and many more have confirmed their presence at the trade fair. The kids’ brands include Ricosta as recurring exhibitor, Bisgaard, Clic!, Däumling, Falc and Primigi. “POP UP – THE URBAN GROOVE” is a lively marketplace for trendy street wear. Manufacturers such as AS98, DocMartin, Fly London, G-Star, El Naturalista, Maruti, Panama Jack, Pepe Jeans Footwear, Wolverine and Replay present their latest trendy collections. “STUDIO – THE PREMIUM NOTE” showcases shoe fashions from minimalistic to glamorous from brands such as Ash, United Nude, Attilio Giusti, Chie Mihara, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dinkelacker, Franceschetti, Jaime Mascaro and La Martina. New on stage in STUDIO are Patricia Pepe, Kennel & Schmenger and Barbour Footwear. For more information: www.gds-online.com
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THE PREMIUM NOTE
THE URBAN GROOVE
THE CITY IS YOURS
GDS’s perfect location with convenient arrival and departure for visitors and in close proximity to the city of Düsseldorf is not changing. What’s new is the OUT OF THE BOX festival for shoes and accessories taking place in the city during GDS. On August 1, 2014, visitors can look forward to in-store attractions, all-day shopping until 10:00 pm, other events and entertainment as well as after-shoe parties in Düsseldorf’s most fashionable clubs.
WHERE DESIGNS TURN INTO BUSINESS
An additional new trade fair and concept starts on July 29 until August 1, 2014: “tag it! by gds” – the show for private label and acceccories. The first trade fair in the world
that focuses on the private label segment. GDS and “tag it! by gds” start following the Düsseldorf fashion week. Their mission: to provide retailers with a broad overview of all the important collections and trends for the season. Everything is clearly structured: “Europe”, featuring European manufacturers and retailers specializing in private labels. “International”, showcasing all the key market players from Asia, North America and South America. “Sourcing” with manufacturers from China, offering ladies’, mens’ and kids’ shoes, as well as sports shoes and accessories in the lower-price market segment. For more information: www.tag-it-show.com
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E-beat
Snap Happy Pictures speak louder than words when it comes to scoring a hit with social shoppers. FORGET PROFESSIONAL PRODUCT shots. Now that high-quality cameras are standard in today’s smartphones, a carefully crafted photo shoot starts to look sterile. That’s why brands and retailers are increasingly turning to the photo-sharing app Instagram to crowdsource content from their customers, which in turn can boost loyalty and drive sales. “Instagram really is a place where people celebrate their finds and the products they admire, and forwardlooking retailers are saying, ‘Let’s bring those conversations inside,’” says Apu Gupta, CEO of Curalate, a Philadelphia startup that uses visual analytics to report to brands which of their products people are sharing on social media. Instagram has seen explosive growth since it launched four years ago and today boasts more than 150 million users worldwide. And there’s quality in that quantity—users spend three times as long on Instagram as they do on Pinterest and twice as long as they do on Twitter. In fact, research has shown the platform to be 15 times more engaging than its parent company, Facebook. Oh, and it’s free. “Instagram is social media’s fastest growing and most engaged social media platform,” reports Danielle Bailey, research director at New York think tank L2. “While Facebook has become pay for play, Instagram still— at least for a little while longer—allows brands to organically and cost-effectively grow engaged communities.” So how can retailers harness all that picture power? While there are limited options for driving consumers to e-commerce destinations on the app itself (Direct links from photos are prohibited.), several brands and retailers are collecting user-generated images that are tagged with a specific hashtag on Instagram and displaying them on their sites, where they can then be associated with a product for sale. Coach, for example, used its site to showcase photos of women from all over the world wearing its shoes. The pictures—routed to the company via the hashtag #CoachFromAbove— resulted in a five to seven percent lift in conversion rates and a two percent boost in the average order value. Likewise, Keen encourages its fans to use the app, and each week the brand selects one photo and features it on all of its channels, rewarding that fan with a free pair of shoes. “We want to make sure our fans know we’re looking out for their content,” shares the brand’s social strategist, Eric King. What’s more, Instagram allows retailers to engage in an incessant exercise in A/B testing: It might decide to carry more of a particular shoe in red if photos of that color get more positive feedback. “When consumers can actually see the shoe in real life on someone else’s foot it provides them with an authentic point of view of what the product really looks like and helps them make a more informed decision,” says Pau Sabria, co-founder of New York-based startup Olapic, which collects and curates social content for the likes of Steve Madden, New Balance and Reef. Gupta agrees: “Instagram is showing everybody that it’s no longer about you or your store—it’s about the consumer. The consumer initiates the conversation and it behooves you as a brand to join the conversation.” —Lyndsay McGregor
BUYER CHAT
Emily Denby Heels.com
“WE ONLY SELL women’s shoes,” says Heels.com Buyer Emily Denby when asked what she thinks sets the e-tailer apart from the pack. This seemingly straightforward answer isn’t a cop-out: Whereas a lot of rival online shoe retailers have expanded their assortments over the years to include clothing, bags and accessories, the Charlotte, NC-based company has stuck to the same path it set out on when it launched in 2007. And it’s working. According to Denby, Heels.com has become a footwear go-to for 18- to 35-year-old women, and business is booming. Sales have increased steadily since its debut, jumping significantly when it doubled its selection in 2011 beyond its original core offering of sexy high heels and pumps to include more trenddriven collections geared to the mid-market. Department store favorites like Jessica Simpson, Kenneth Cole Reaction and Guess sit alongside reasonably priced yet fashion-forward labels like Shellys London, SixtySeven and Taylor Says, as well as a plethora of gems from niche brands. This results in more than 9,000 products across
150 brands at any one time, and plans are in the works to double the size of the selection again this year. “I try to buy for everyone from the more bohemian type that likes Seychelles to the more fashion-forward woman that buys Privileged,” shares Denby, who initially came on board as a customer service rep six years ago and, after expressing an interest in buying, worked her way up to principal buyer in 2012. Although some consumers still prefer to try on shoes instore, Heels.com has bridged the cyber-gap by incorporating a Shoefitr feature on its site, which aims to reduce fit-related returns by showing shoppers how shoes will fit and recommending the best size to order. Combine that with free two-day shipping, free returns and price protection (whereby the company will refund the difference in price, plus 15 percent, if a customer finds the same style, size and color at a lower price anywhere else) and it’s no wonder the site attracts customers from all over the world. “Australia is one of our biggest customer bases—those girls go way outside the box,” Denby reveals. —L.M. What are some of your key trends for Fall ’14? Lug soles, block heels, over-the-knee boots and ’90s-inspired silhouettes. What about key colors? Bordeaux, navy, gray, olive and black. What is the best new brand added to Heels.com? Aldo. I know it’s a mainstream brand, but it’s a go-to for a lot of our girls. Are there any trends you are tired of ? Sneaker wedges.
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continued from page 10 fashion blogger Chiara Ferragni of The Blonde Salad on a tight collection of peep toe booties, Lucite sandals and single-sole stilettos that was picked up this spring by Nordstrom, Piperlime and Zappos. Madden looks to keep that momentum going in the fall with a new partnership with Peace Love Shea blogger, Shea Marie. “It’s a grass roots play at the end of the day,” notes Priest. “It’s someone who’s one of us and who maybe can connect better with the average consumer than corporate marketing would.” That’s the hope with Natalie Off Duty blogger Natalie Suarez’s involvement with New York label Modern Vice. As co-founder Jordan Adoni points out, Suarez epitomizes everything the line stands for: classic looks with a downtown edge. The collaboration even helped get the brand off the launch pad in Spring ’13. “It definitely helped get us into certain markets (like Oak and Wink in New York and American Rag in Los Angeles) that we thought would be a fit for Modern Vice,” Adoni says, adding that it also helped give Suarez, who has appeared in campaigns for Timberland, Ugg and Minnetonka, “a lot of credibility as a substantial designer and stylist.” While David Bell, founder and creative director of Pretty Ballerinas, is no stranger to tapping into the blogosphere (Ella Catliff of La Petite Anglaise is the face of sister brand Pretty Loafer’s Fall ’14 campaign), he had never considered collaborating with a blogger on a design level—until he met the British social media sensation and DJ, Bip Ling. “She fits so well with the brand image. She’s little and cute, and our brand is small with a big personality,” Bell notes. The colorful six-piece collection, which hit stores in time for the holidays, featured her blog’s signature cartoon character, Mooch, and a truckload of glitter and jazzy trimmings. “The styles have sold well, which isn’t easy for such bright colors and pointed toes with a Mooch face on them,” Bell says. “These collaborations are fun, because they introduce our brand to new people who don’t know it but also introduce Bip to people who know us.” Similarly, New York-based shoe designer Matt Bernson recruited Grace Atwood of Stripes & Sequins to put her own spin on some of his eponymous brand’s bestselling styles after she tweeted her love for his Waverly flat. (Atwood has nearly 15,000 Twitter followers.) The six-piece offering launched this spring and sold out almost immediately on Shopbop and at Anthropologie stores nationwide. “We really wanted to make something that would appeal to her fans,” Bernson says, adding that he was “blown away” by the response and is considering extending the partnership. Atwood is equally pleased. “The business of blogging is always under scrutiny so it was refreshing to see that these worked,” she shares. “It was important to me that the shoes be something that my readers would pick up if they saw it in a store and feel like they had to buy it.” Bernson’s team kept this in mind when it came to retail placement. “We decided that the collection would fit best with Anthropologie and Shopbop as they’re both very blogger-friendly,” he says, adding that Atwood’s design influence enabled the brand to step beyond its normal aesthetic. “The fact that she likes to add glitter and sequins took us in a different direction, but in a way that was comfortable with our brand and our audience,” he notes. The intimacy and immediacy of social media is a key factor behind the success of blogger-brand collaborations. “Fashion and footwear brands have discovered that the blogosphere creates a more natural environment to engage with relevant consumers,” says Lewis of iProspect, adding that followers are likely to have a strong connection to that blogger, which gives brands—and retailers—the opportunity to tap into that audience. That’s what Giorgio Brutini partly had in mind when it asked menswear blogger Adam Gallagher of IAmGalla.com to star in its Fall ’13 marketing campaign. Barry Specht, vice president of marketing of parent company Harbor Footwear Group, also planned for a capsule collection of dress-inspired looks but, unfortunately, the ad campaign (specifically the growing popularity of Gallagher) caught the attention of Ted Baker and Gucci. “We’re still talking to Adam, he still features our products on his blog, but the collaboration has moved to the backburner for both of us at this point,” Specht offers. Indeed, not every brand-blogger partnership is a success. Some efforts generate little in the way of traffic, and hits alone do not necessarily translate into sales. Unlike celebrity endorsements that have enormous consumer reach,
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blogger collabs tend to be more limited in scope. “It isn’t for all segments of our market,” says Priest, adding that Millennials, who spend an average of seven hours a day online, are more likely to embrace these capsule collections. “There’s a whole side of consumers who don’t know who bloggers are.” Fraser Ross, founder of Kitson, says that while his stores carried The Man Repeller x Superga collection, he thinks it sold well because it was Superga, not the Man Repeller affiliation. “These collaborations are a flash in the pan,” he quips. However, Holly Pavlika, senior vice president of brand strategy at Collective Bias, a company that coordinates freelance bloggers to publish content for branded marketing campaigns, believes collaborations between brands and actual audiences are here for the long term. “Brands understand that marketing has been turned on its head and the consumer is king,” she says. Gonzalez of Zappos points out that that such collaborations give the consumer an opportunity to obtain a limited design and an interpretation of a trend directly from that blogger. She also notes that she picked up The Blonde Salad x Steve Madden collection not only because it was “edgy and playful,” but because it represents how heavily the industry is influenced by social media. Love them or loathe them, it looks like brand-blogger collaborations have legs for now. “Given the current success and reach of bloggers, it’s a valuable channel to connect with the customer,” says Popp, who adds that DSW regularly engages bloggers for such promotions as #DSWShoeHookUp, which enlisted 50 bloggers to give away 250 pairs of shoes last December. “Based on the excitement and energy it drives to our stores and website, we’re really excited to continue to partner with bloggers who share our shoe love.” Likewise, FDRA’s Priest believes anything that helps spark a sale is fine by him. “Driving grass roots interest amongst consumers using bloggers— who are really the voice of the consumer in many ways—is fantastic,” he says. Cohen of NPD agrees: “It’s no longer enough for retailers to just put the product out there and state the facts. It’s about romancing the product, helping consumers understand why they need to buy it. Blogger collaborations can help get that point across.” •
THE GLOBAL WATERSPORTS AND BEACH LIFESTYLE TRADESHOW
SEPTEMBER4-62014 BOARD DEMO DAY SEPTEMBER 3
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UPCL OSE STRE E T
California Dreamin’
Bright Lights
Meet Dije California, a charming West Coast-inspired lifestyle collection from Lamo.
Ccilu sets out to pair technology and trend with its line of injection-molded footwear. WHEN CCILU WAS introduced to Japanese consumers in 2012, the brand quickly became a footwear favorite with its lightweight feel and stylish silhouettes. Two years later, the injectionmolded shoe line’s footprint has spread like wildfire to more than 145 countries and, along the way, altered the perception of the conventional molded shoe. “Ccilu customers are forward-thinking people who are not defying the norm just because,” says Gracinia Lim, brand marketing manager of International Brand Partners Pte Ltd., Ccilu’s licensor. “They are thinking ahead of the norm. They are not afraid of having bold designs and bold colors on their feet.” And that is exactly what Ccilu presents. Manufacturers traditionally use injection technology in performance shoes, clogs and sandals, but Lim says Ccilu goes far beyond that. “Ccilu has created hybrid products combining injection molding with conventional materials, such as leathers and nylons, to offer cool, trend-correct street footwear for young adults,” she notes. Ccilucell, a proprietary technology, is a compound used throughout the line. It provides cushioning, flexibility and traction while contributing to the feather-light weight of six ounces per pair—without sacrificing style. “The shoe designs are also able to push the envelopes of fashion and style without compromising comfort that consumers seek,” Lim adds. Pairing technology with fashion is the hallmark of Killick Datta, president and CEO of International Brand Partners Pte Ltd. Datta was the founder and CEO of Global Brand Marketing, Inc., the former Diesel license holder, that scored enormous success with the brand’s interpretation of fashion athletic styling. After a few years absence, Datta has returned
to the shoe game with the Ccilu license. The new target customer, like the breadth of the collection, is broader than Diesel’s. Pairing technology with fashion, the line aims to combine tradition with innovation through Fall ’14 themes of Lightweight, Geometry, Emboss, Insulation and Color. While over-saturated brights such as emerald green, vivid blue and melon yellow highlight heels, wedges, waterproof boots and athletic styles, winter white also plays a prominent role. Running silhouettes in different executions are key for Spring ’15, from multicolored active shoes to high-heeled sneakers. In addition, strappy sandals, suede dressy casuals, monochrome slip-ons and flip-flops punctuate the collection, wholesaling from $12 to $65. “The most exciting trend for Ccilu is the hybrid approach to product,” Lim says. “We’re combining different or unexpected elements to create something entirely new, such as performance materials with casual.” And Lim projects Ccilu will see success similar to some of Datta’s past ventures. “With most of the core management team from the GBMI/ Diesel footwear group coming together, along with global distributors and retailers who have all worked closely with other brands this management team was involved with, this Ccilu team is hopeful that this new project can be as successful as they have been in the past,” she says. —Samantha Sciarrotta
IT’S NOT ALL about fur and sheepskin for Lamo anymore. The California -based company recently introduced its newest addition, Dije California, scheduled to hit retail this fall. With canvas, driving mocs and studded styles, the line is certainly a departure from Lamo’s traditional relaxed comfort sheepskin boots. “Dije will have much more than just fur-lined boots,” says CEO Jerry Breig. “It will include casual lifestyle shoes, sandals, boots and others that really portray the whole California lifestyle feeling.” The line offers a more laid-back feel with the men’s Ellis and Gianni styles, supple brown slip-ons with a sleek silhouette, and the women’s Jester booties, highlighted by raw edges and studs. Children’s boots feature sequined styles, and new designs like strappy sandals are part of the Spring ’15 collection—what Breig calls Dije’s “hard launch.” The introduction of Dije will help transition Lamo’s focus from a seasonal business to year-round. “We will be offering many more spring and summer styles and not so much sheepskin or wool,” Breig notes. “This will not only complement Lamo, but it will also allow us to have 12 months of design.” Moccasins, clogs and indoor slippers as well as hats and earmuffs are part of the mix. And what’s a subsidiary of Lamo without a few Australian sheepskin styles to round out the collection. Retailing for $26.99 to $199.99, Dije falls into a higher price range than Lamo. But Breig explains the new target customer is interested in more fashionforward designs. “Dije’s customers are sophisticated men and women,” he says. “They are looking for styling that is on-trend and at a higher price point.” So far so good as Breig describes the initial reaction from retailers has been strong. He adds that Dije has already extended beyond Lamo’s distribution. “Most retailers know they can trust Lamo, as we have a 10-plus year track record of delivering as promised and filling gaps for customers,” Breig says. “They know they will get quality footwear delivered when we say it will be.” —S.S.
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O&A continued from page 17 something that customers can’t find in the 11 other shoe stores in the mall. They may find it online, but they can’t get the fitting expertise. They really can’t. Because shoes are manufactured in so many different places, the fit can vary from brand to brand. If you wear a more challenging size, you might want to try on a couple of different styles. In the same breath, however, consumers are having 25 pairs shipped to their doorstep, thanks to free shipping both ways from online dealers. The customer practically has a shoe store in their house. The Internet, overall, is changing the game dramatically. Our drop-ship business is growing extremely well. If it continues to grow at that pace, what’s that say about the long-term viability of brick-and-mortar retailers? I don’t know the long-term answer to that question, although that topic comes up at just about every trade show I’ve been to of late. As of now, we still have a nice independent business. Similarly, people still seem to like going to malls. Around the holidays or even on an average weekend, there are plenty of people in them. So the opportunity is there. In general, I think people still like to go out and shop. It’s a fun activity, and I don’t think that’s going to stop completely. However, consumers used to shop when the Internet wasn’t at their fingertips and, therefore, were more likely to have compromised and made a purchase. Now, if they are not 100 percent sure that item is going to work and fulfill a need, they are not nearly as willing to pull the trigger. They may go home and do a comparison shop online, finding exactly what they were looking for and then have it mailed to them for free.
diversification gives the customer increased opportunity. The growth of the Internet is being driven largely by choice. The logic that follows is you better give the consumer more choices because if you don’t, then they are going to shop somewhere else. By and large, people love choice. It’s the same thing in large stores where there are aisles and aisles of choices because they want the customer to go, ‘Wow, look at all these choices!’ Amazon has taken it to the nth degree, while other retailers prefer to be very selective in what they carry. In general, it’s more challenging if you can’t offer meaningful choice. Along these lines, there are an increasing number of online retailers seeking exclusive patterns to further distinguish their level of choice. That presents a pretty big opportunity for us going forward.
“You better give the consumer more choices because if you don’t, then they are going to shop somewhere else.”
It doesn’t bode well, especially if stores all look the same. I don’t disagree and, to your point, I have zero plans to open any brick-and-mortar stores any time soon. The reality is the independent tier is not a growing market for us. If I compare the decrease of that tier’s orders with the increase in orders from our online customers, guess where the business has gone? Well, what’s not to like when these dealers buy your entire collection? There are some large online retailers who say, “Give me everything you have available.” Done. While others make you lay the product in front, do a sales presentation and then they pick and choose a few styles here and there. Which meetings are better? Well… It’s a wonderful thing if they buy everything, because I have a warehouse full of shoes. My logic is we’ve got a huge inventory and we want to offer that customer everything. We don’t specify which boot she can purchase. I’d rather say to our customer: You can have 10 different boots. They come in multiple colors and styles, and they all are available in sizes and widths. We believe
The online tier matches particularly well with Easy Street’s model, correct? Those retailers are pretty satisfied with us. If they project to do X amount of volume with us and have the ability to blow that up to 200 percent better, that gets their attention. But you have to carry significant inventory to play this type of game. And fulfillment is key in this tier because we are dealing directly with that retailer’s customer. Hypothetically, she’s a Nordstrom or Macy’s customer and we’ve got to do everything perfectly right from quality of the shoes to delivering in a timely fashion. Otherwise, those retailers will throw us out, and rightfully so. Disappointing my customer is one thing, but if I disappoint the drop-ship customer then I’m messing with somebody else’s customer. That’s just taboo. For example, we have a cable TV retailer that does huge numbers with us and the window we must ship their orders is exact. It’s thousands of pairs, and we better not miss it within the hour. There’s no variance. If they sold 20,000 pairs, but three pairs didn’t get shipped, it better not happen again. That’s why our call to duty every day is: service, service, service. We make sure we deliver. It’s why we won’t accept unrealistic terms or make promises we can’t keep. Like we’ll never put an item on an Internet feed unless those shoes are sitting in our warehouse. We don’t even consider doing anything in anticipation. Nothing goes live until we can fulfill the order for that customer.
What do you love most about your job? That’s easy: Running an independent shoe company. The freedom and the flexibility in doing that is what I love most. I tell people all the time, it’s easy to do business with us. We don’t do things by committee and we can make decisions on the spot. That’s one of our slogans in our advertising: “We make it easy.” We are not just talking about the shoes being “easy,” we’re talking about how it’s easy to do business with us as well. Unlike other large organizations that deal in a similar depth and breadth of styles and sizes where you have to sit before a board of directors explaining how, why, where, terms and so forth and so on, that’s a lot more challenging and time-consuming than me basically saying, “Yes, we’re going to stock 100,000 pairs. Done.” • 2014 june • footwearplusmagazine.com 47
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LAST WORD
reality check
Swimming with Sharks Tim Talley, CEO of U-Lace, pitched his custom laces company on the hit reality series, “Shark Tank,” and wound up hooking a Great White. By Lyndsay McGregor
MILLIONS OF AMERICANS tune in to the ABC reality show “Shark Tank” each week to watch budding entrepreneurs pitch their business dreams to a panel of millionaire—sometimes billionaire—investors in the hopes of landing a lucrative deal that will turn those dreams into realities. Tim Talley, CEO of U-Lace, a Rochester, NY, company that makes elasticated laces for sneakers (SRP $3.49 per six-pack) that can be customized into all kinds of color combinations and patterns, was one such loyal viewer. And after surviving a lengthy and arduous process, Talley made it onto the show where panelist Mark Cuban offered a $200,000 investment in exchange for 35 percent ownership of U-Lace. It wasn’t easy. In fact, the whole ordeal is so rigorous and emotionally draining that Top to bottom: Tim Talley, the show’s producers require every contesCEO of U-Lace, tant to meet with a psychiatrist afterwards. casting his line; “People pour their hearts and souls into their Mark Cuban, businesses—I know I have—but I’d never the “Shark” who really thought about how I would react if I took the bait; U-Laces elastigot my butt handed to me on national TV,” cated laces can Talley says. be customized Before that could even happen, however, into a variety Talley first had to survive an open casting of color combinations and call in Philadelphia early last summer. He patterns. slept outside overnight in the rain just to be one of 6,000 people to present a 60-second pitch to the show’s producers. His energy and belief in his business hooked them—coupled with the fact that the product was already available overseas. Producers believed they had a legitimate entrepreneur on their hands, he says. Months of preparation still followed. Producers called twice a week to hear Talley’s pitch and grill him with questions a panelist might ask. Then Talley flew to Los Angeles to pitch his idea to a room full of network execs. “There’s never a guarantee—even then—that you will appear on the show,” he says. But Talley endured and when he made his final pitch to the actual “Shark Tank” panel he spiced it up by gifting each “shark” with a pair of sneakers featuring U-Laces that spoke to their interests: red and white for Canadian Kevin O’Leary; metallic for the Queen of QVC, Lori Greiner; Robert Herjavec and Daymond John got their home city and high school colors, respectively; and Cuban, owner of the NBA’s Dallas Mavericks, got its
team colors of blue, silver and white. Greiner was skeptical; after slipping on her shoes she found the plastic tabs that held the laces in place to be uncomfortable. But John, who passed because he had just acquired a shoe company, urged O’Leary and Cuban to make an offer, calling Talley “the real deal.” Cuban, seeing the potential in team-colored laces, bit. “Mark both liked and believed in me as an individual, and also saw U-Lace as a product with huge potential,” Talley says. Unlike the show’s usual embryo-like companies, Cuban liked that U-Lace had legs. The business started shipping in 2009, had a retail presence in more than 40 countries (including Colette in Paris) and possessed a 50 percent profit margin. However, annual sales were only $193,000, and the product’s only U.S. outlets were its website and a handful of online sneaker dealers. Talley believed he needed some marketing muscle. “For us to establish ourselves in the U.S., we needed an investor to help us get above the noise in the marketplace,” he says, adding that a major brand awareness event (like appearing on “Shark Tank”) could also be beneficial. Well, to say both those beliefs have proven to be true would be an understatement of epic proportions. In the month following Talley’s “Shark Tank” episode in March, U-Lace racked up more sales than it had in the prior year. “It flipped our business in the U.S.—it’s been life-changing,” Talley quips. The company has since inked deals with “a couple of very large U.S. retailers” and added another 20 countries to its distribution network. U-Lace is set to drop at the American Airlines Center, home of Cuban’s Dallas Mavericks, next season, as well as in its team shops. Talley is also working on deals with teams in the NBA, NFL, MLB and NHL. And, per Cuban’s advice, a kids’ version of the product is in the works. In addition, plans are swirling for shoes to go along with the laces. Far from any fleeting reality show publicity stunt, Talley says Cuban remains actively involved in U-Lace. “Mark answers every e-mail I send,” he says. “If I write five paragraphs, I might get five words back. As long as he feels like he doesn’t need to write a bunch of paragraphs, it’s a nod of approval.” Likewise, Talley approves of the whole “Shark Tank” experience. “The show is a rocket ship that can get you off the launch pad,” he says.
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Fashion Inspires Us Value Drives Us
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