Footwear Plus | April/May 2014

T H E M E A N I N G O F N O R M CO R E • E U R O P E A N T R E N D R E P O R T • H OW T H E W E ST I S WO R N

VOL. 24 • ISSUE 4 • APRIL/MAY 2014 • $10

NEW

FRONTIERS WESTERN CROSSES INTO THE MAINSTREAM

fw_04_14_cover_02.indd 38

4/11/14 1:32 PM

FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 6

4/9/14 12:01 PM

BØRN HANDCRAFTED FOOTWEAR | NEW YORK SHOWROOM | 1441 BROADWAY | 15TH FLOOR | NEW YORK, NY

FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 25

4/9/14 12:02 PM

Footwear+ April May 2014.indd 1

4/7/14 4:10 PM

APR I L / M AY 2 0 1 4

Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Social Media Editor Samantha Sciarrotta Assistant Editor PA G E

30

Kathy Passero Editor at Large Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer Judy Leand Contributing Editor ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

Clockwise from top right: Modern Vice gem-embellished bootie, cuffed boot

by Mia, Justin Boots cowboy boot, Born laser cut boot, Miz Mooz ankle bootie.

Capri Crescio Advertising Manager Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Joel Shupp Circulation Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director

10 The New Normal

28 Trend Spotting

Normcore creates a sartorial craze with back-to-basics footwear.

By Angela Velasquez

Boots and bags awash in Old West details create modern day musthaves. By Angela Velasquez

12 Full Gallop

30 My Little Pony

Randy Watson, CEO of Justin Brands, on the company’s six-year run of double-digit growth and no slowdown in sight. By Greg Dutter

Designers’ flair for western fashion blends the rugged looks of rodeo heroes with the glam of Rodeo Drive.

By Angela Velasquez

18 The European Report A bevy of fall trends greeted buyers at the final installment of the GDS show as the industry knows it.

By Angela Velasquez

24 Defining Western The latest interpretations of western style for Fall ’14 reveal a breadth of selection as vast as its consumer audience. By Angela Velasquez and Lyndsay McGregor

On the cover: Durango cowboy boots with leather and scarf wrap accents, Maje coat, dress by Free People, Vanessa Mooney bolero, H&M socks. Photography by Francis Tulk-Hart. Stylist: Daniela Jung; hair and makeup: Angie Parker, Altered Agency; model: Britt, One Management.

6 This Just In

Xen Zapis Chairman

8 Scene & Heard 22 What’s Selling

Lee Zapis President

42 Shoe Salon 48 Last Word

Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

4 Editor’s Note

44 E-beat

OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl.

New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com

@footwearplusmag facebook.com/footwearplusmagazine footwearplusmagazine.com

Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

FW_04_14_TOC_02.indd 2

4/10/14 4:28 PM

FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 11

4/9/14 12:11 PM

EDITOR’S NOTE BROTHERS IN ARMS

Revisiting the Classics As fashion continues to look back in the face of financial risks associated with introducing new concepts, the ’90s are here again.

Which brings me back to that photo of my brothers and me. Little did we THE PHOTO AT the center of this page is of myself know then that we were making a fashion statement that, some 20 years (left) and my two older brothers, circa the early ’90s, later, would be embraced again, not to mention scrutinized by a legion of which happens to be an inspirational focal point for trend forecasters, marketers, editors and bloggers. Back then, I leaned a bit what has been coined the Normcore fashion movepreppy and Seinfeld-esque (I was wearing clean white Reeboks in this photo), ment of today. In case you hadn’t heard, bland is the while my two brothers spanned from sporty (Tom, a former college pitcher, new black. Specifically, ’90s–era fashions are back in had a preference for bright saturated solids) to rebellious (John often wore vogue. Millions of Millennials (people born after 1980) layers—jean jacket, flannel shirt and thermal undershirt—that would make and immediate generations preceding them are feeling Eddie Vedder proud). nostalgic for the bygone era that brought us a wave of Not long after this photo was taken the three of us began to go our separate anti-conformist sentiment and anti-fashion fashion, be ways—career-wise, fashion-wise and in terms of where we would call home. it Nirvana’s Kurt Cobain rocking his cardigan sweaters, Jerry Seinfeld sportIt grew to a distance that stretched from Maui to Manhattan. In fact, it was ing all-white sneakers on his show about nothing or Steve Jobs pairing black rare for the three of us to be photographed together after that. Our professions turtlenecks and Birkenstock sandals as the signature Nerds Rule ensemble. became equally disparate: editing These ’90s-era styles are both a footwear fashion magazine in comforting and comfortable. Our New York, building luxury homes Special Report (p. 10) delves into in New Jersey (Tom) and, workthe Normcore movement and ing as an electrician, John helped its implications for our industry. install Hawaii’s tsunami warnFor starters, experts say fashions ing system, among other projects. from that era play to those who Sadly, the three of us will never enjoy revisiting their youth, likely be in a photo together again. John a period of less stress when the passed away suddenly, at age 49, future seemed filled with great last month. Undoubtedly, after 10 expectations. There are also those years living in paradise, his fashion getting their ’90s fashions on and sense had shifted to a more laidmaking the ultimate anti-hipster back, tropical vibe. (No need for (thus totally hipster) statement of layering there.) It wouldn’t have dressing like their parents once gone unnoticed by me. I couldn’t did and not caring a lick about have resisted a few playful jabs, current labels. Classic brands are because just how rebellious can catching a good buzz thanks to you look in Hawaiian print shirts?

Normcore followers and ’90s-era Likewise, John would have been nostalgia seekers, including the taken aback by my current New aforementioned Birkenstock, as The Dutter brothers—Greg, John and Tom—in their ’90s-era styles, a Normcore fashion statement today.

York uniform of black, head to well as K•Swiss, Nike, Keds and toe. Like most older brothers, Dr. Martens, to name a few. he would have had a field day teasing me about my urban fashion aesthetic.

Another factor fueling the Normcore movement is the U.S. economy. In This photo, on the other hand, will always remind me of the time when we times of financial uncertainty, consumers look for authenticity, i.e. brands were still living near each other and our fashions reflected a similar closethey know and trust. Hence, the current popularity of heritage brands and ness. Whenever I see someone with long brown hair passing by on a street, classic styling. Randy Watson, CEO of Justin Brands and the subject of this rocking a rebellious grunge look of a flannel shirt atop a thermal undershirt, month’s Q&A (p. 12), says the heritage factor tied to its Justin, Nocona, Tony jeans and heavy work boots, I’ll think of my brother John. It’s a fashion stateLama and Chippewa brands has been key to its six-year run of double-digit ment I hope lives on forever. sales and profits. The portfolio possesses an incredible 400-plus years of brand equity combined, and Watson foresees no let-up in growth this year.

Greg Dutter To be sure, the era that gave birth to grunge is in step with the heavy-soled Editorial Director logger and work boots offered by Chippewa and Justin.

4 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

FW_03_14_EdNote_02.indd 4

4/11/14 3:53 PM

One shoe.

Two widths.

Like us on facebook.com/alegriashoes FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 17

alegriashoes.com 4/9/14 12:12 PM

THIS JUST IN

Team Bombshell

Old-school bomber jackets add a sporty layer to chic ensembles.

Photography by Melodie Jeng

6

FW_04_14_This_Just_In_01.indd 6

4/8/14 5:28 PM

FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 13

4/9/14 12:36 PM

¡+¢ scene and heard BRAZILIAN BRAND MELISSA Shoes celebrated the launch of its latest Campana Brothers collaboration by unveiling an art installation by the design duo at its New York flagship, Galeria Melissa. Fitas, inspired by the pair’s furniture collection of the same name, marks the fifth time the brothers have teamed up with the plastic shoe maven. Two jellyfish-like chandeliers, handmade using translucent Fitas shoes produced solely for this project, light up the space with a warm orange hue, while a couple of PVA wall panels featuring the same rosette cutouts as the shoes are lit from behind with a neon green glow.

“The installation builds off of the idea of unexpected design. Shoppers don’t always expect to find a plastic shoe with such renowned design work from artists like the Campana Brothers,” says Michele Levy, president of Melissa Shoes U.S.A. “But they definitely do not expect for those shoes to then be woven into enormous, suspended chandeliers.”

The installation will be on display at the Galeria through June, and the collection is available now at more than 150 retailers nationwide, including Bloomingdale’s and Saks, for $90.

Support System REEBOK CONTINUES TO shift its focus from elite athletes to everyday fitness enthusiasts by stripping down—literally—for Skyscape, its latest shoe for women. Inspired by the same seamless technology used in molded foam bras and weighing a mere five ounces, the shoe’s multi-platform campaign, starring supermodel Miranda Kerr, claims it’s “so comfortable you’ll forget you have it on.”

Reebok learned a lot by looking beyond footwear for inspiration, reveals Martina Jahrbacher, head of global walking. “It took us more than two years to complete this shoe, as we were dedicated to creating one that would perfectly support our active female consumer,” she notes.

Featuring 360 degrees of foam, the upper’s twoway stretch material envelops the foot and allows for natural movement and breathability, while the pillow-like sole provides cushioning and flexibility for all-day comfort. Retailing at $65, the machine-washable shoe launched in six colorways last month. A customizable option, starting at $80, was added to MyReebok.com in April and a kaleidoscope of new hues and prints will hit stores this summer. “This was a first for our brand and it was a successful way to develop new offers for our consumers,” Jahrbacher says.

P H OTO G R A P H BY M E R E D I T H H A R R I S

Jelly Wish

Turning Shoes into Water SINCE 2008 SHOEMAN Water Projects has collected more than 3.5 million pounds of used shoes and donated them to undeveloped communities in Haiti, Kenya and South America, providing jobs for roadside vendors and affordable footwear to those who need it for pennies on the dollar.

But these shoes have done more than protect the poor’s feet from abrasions, parasites and mites. Founder George “The Shoeman” Hutchings has taken the money raised from the exports and used it to repair water pumps and purchase welldrilling rigs and water purification systems that provide clean drinking water to a quarter of a million people.

But his mission is far from over. “Someone dies every 21 seconds due to waterborne diseases,” Hutchings says. Now he’s hoping to collect enough shoes to buy a $300,000 rig that will have the ability to drill one well every week in Kenya. He urges retailers to get involved in his mission. “If they can give us their overruns and encourage customers to drop off old pairs when they come in to the store to buy new ones, we can do the logistics and figure out how to get them here,” he says. For more information on how to host a shoe drive, call (636) 751-8197 or visit www.shoemanwater.org.

Winner, Winner FOOTWEAR PLUS RECEIVED two awards from the Society of Publication Designers (SPD) for its Rebel, Rebel (Dec. 2013) and Tropical Punch (July 2013) fashion spreads.

Creative Directors Nancy Campbell and Trevett McCandliss will be honored during the association’s annual international awards gala in May.

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

FW_04_S&H_01.indd 8

4/8/14 6:38 PM

30 JULY – 1 AUGUST 2014 DÜSSELDORF, GERMANY WWW.GDS-ONLINE.COM

FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 1 ngds1402_229x276,25.indd 1

For show information: Messe Düsseldorf North America 150 North Michigan Avenue Suite 2920 _ Chicago, IL 60601 Tel. (312) 781-5180 _ Fax (312) 781-5188 info@mdna.com _ www.mdna.com For hotel and travel arrangements: TTI Travel, Inc. Tel. (866) 674-3476 _ Fax (212) 674-3477

4/9/14 12:39 PM 25.03.14 07:37

SPECIAL REPORT

The New Normal MEET THE NORMCORE person.

He or she is likely a Millennial and dressed in clothes their parents probably wore in the late ’80s and early ’90s. These anti-fashion fashion types are easy to spot. The male Normcorer pairs logo T-shirts—be it Nautica or a souvenir tee from a vacation destination that he may or may have not visited—with pleated khaki trousers or saggy athletic pants. The female Normcorer jazzes up her off-brand jeans with a generic sweater, a button-down shirt or sweatshirt. Both have an affinity for windbreakers and Patagonia fleece zipper jackets and—the final statement-making touch— back-to-basics footwear styles like Birkenstock and Teva sandals or plain sneakers by the likes of New Balance, K•Swiss, Keds and Nike, to cite a few.

The broader definition of the Normcore movement involves the idea that individuals adapt to situations and embrace the normalcy around them. Coined by New Yorkbased trend forecasting group, K-Hole, the collective likens Normcore to someone who might not understand soccer, but will enjoy the thrill of watching a World Cup game. Or, tap their toes at a Taylor Swift concert one night and happily attend a Kanye West performance the next. Normcore offers the freedom to associate with any group at any time, even if one choice conflicts with another. The term became de rigueur following a recent New York magazine article on the subject. A legion of editors, bloggers, marketers and retailers have since jumped in with their takes on how it’s being interpreted in fashion. Basically, to achieve that type of freedom, many Normcorers revert to bland apparel and sensible shoes more commonly associated with dowdy moms and dads. Examples include actress Kristen Stewart walking the red carpet in Nike sneakers (paired with a lace Marchesa gown), college grads rocking New Balance low-tech joggers at their high-tech jobs and models putting the chic in comfort by sporting Birkenstock-esque sandals on and off the runway.

“People don’t want to feel boxed in,” says Barney Waters, chief marketing officer for K•Swiss. “They’ll wear jeans one day, a bowtie the next and a special designer piece with something bought at a fast fashion chain another day.” That hodgepodge of brands and styles is making it more difficult than ever to put a label on someone, which Waters says is what this generation wants. Sportie LA Co-Owner Isack Fadlon agrees, adding it reflects a movement away from being ostentatious. “People like the quasi-anonymity this look offers,” he says.

Some say Normcore marks the death of hipster-ism, while others argue it’s the ultimate hipster anti-fashion statement. After seasons of

plaid shirts, bespoke denim and work boots carefully disheveled in a shoe factory—not on the job— ModCloth.com Editorial Manager Rebecca Brown says Millennials are breaking out of that look. “They are being drawn towards styles from the ’90s,” she says of the growing appeal of logo tees and sweats. “There’s a lot of nostalgia and comfort from that time period because they grew up then,” she adds. That demand has even led Sportie LA to bring back British Knights basketball sneakers, old-school Pony styles and heritage joggers from Diadora and Brooks. “Nostalgia is playing a big part in fashion these days, and not just in the want for heritage brands. Consumers want specific styles,” Fadlon states.

Brown believes consumers have been waiting for the next iteration of hipster. The days when HBO’s Girls shocked, Ivy League men grew old-time mustaches and the epicenter of hipster culture known as Williamsburg, Brooklyn, are waning.

An anti-hipster feeling has been taking hold. “The word hipster has a negative connotation now,” says Katie Smith, senior fashion and retail market analyst at Editd. “But all hipster fashion is retrospective, and Normcore certainly is too,” she adds. “It’s just a little more tongue-in-cheek and, in a way, a laugh at the fashion world.”

Comfort Revolution One cannot underestimate the comfort factor with relation to Normcore followers’ affinity for roomy clothes and comfortable shoes. David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock U.S.A., says it should come as no surprise that young people want to feel good on their feet, especially for those who have suffered wearing laborious wedges, stilettos and flatforms. “The experience is life changing,” he says of wearing Birkenstocks. “That customer might have not known that level of comfort existed but, when they do, they don’t want to compromise.” Kahan adds, “It’s not going to be easy to get them back in a pair of high heels.”

Waters attributes the need for simple, comfortable footwear to the fact that the attitude of many Millennials has changed. “Their aspirations have evolved,” he says. “They don’t just want to be an ‘athlete’ or be considered ‘cool.’

In fact, that seems out of fashion. They want to be successful entrepreneurs.”

“Business casual has become business comfort,” Kahan states, noting that the younger generations entering the workforce are going into creative and tech spaces rather than traditional jobs like banking. “There was a time when you got out of college and you had to put on a suit. Now people want to be true to themselves,” he says. After all, Kahan notes, Steve Jobs’ choice >46

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

By disregarding fashion, Normcore creates a sartorial statement that bland is the new black.

By Angela Velasquez

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

fw_04_14_specialreport_01.indd 10

4/10/14 11:31 AM

JUNE 3-5, 2014

TUESDAY–THURSDAY New York Hilton Midtown & FFANY Member Showrooms

Shop FFANY 365 days a year—visit ffany365.com Opening Night Industry Party Tuesday, June 3rd: Brasserie 8 ½ Event details & tickets at FFANY.ORG Save the Dates: August 5–7 (Tuesday–Thursday), December 3–5 (Wednesday–Friday) FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 7

@ffanyshoeshow

4/9/14 12:43 PM

BY GREG DUTTER

Full Gallop ON A SIX-YEAR RUN OF DOUBLE-DIGIT GROWTH IN SALES AND REVENUE, RANDY WATSON, CHAIRMAN AND CEO OF JUSTIN BRANDS, DISCUSSES THE FACTORS FUELING THE SUCCESS AND WHY THE BEST IS YET TO COME.

O

RANDY WATSON LIKES disruption— the positive kinds. The chairman and CEO of Justin Brands, makers of Justin, Tony Lama, Chippewa and Nocona, believes new opportunities are created when the old way of doing business is disrupted. Take the rise of social media, for example. It’s dramatically changing the way consumers shop as well as their expectations. Watson believes Justin Brands better adapt to these changes or run the risk of being left behind.

“Even though one of our brands is 135 years old (Justin), that consumer is looking for a whole different shopping experience and we are working hard to address that,” he says. “We’re not going to rest on our laurels of 457 years of combined brand equity. We’ve got to remain relevant.”

Before social media’s disruption, Watson describes how a style might have taken five years for its lifecycle to be completed. It could have started in Texas, been hot there for two years, and then spread to California and New York. “Today, you can tweet a photo of a new style and, in a matter of seconds, receive responses nationwide of, ‘That’s cool, where can I get it?’ Or, ‘That’s horrible, why would Justin ever make anything like that?’” Watson offers. “We’ve got to be able to address those types of instantaneous positives and negatives.” Watson particularly likes the speed of social media. “It allows you to take new ideas—of any size—and rapidly pursue and target customers,” he says. “And you can do so at a reduced cost, in both money and time. It’s a phenomenal tool going forward.”

The disruption caused by social media is causing disruption—a lot of it positive—in manufacturing. For starters, Watson says faster consumer responses create the need to react quicker. It’s prompted Justin Brands to re-evaluate its entire manufacturing process. The fact that the head of the division is retiring is also incentive for Watson to focus on that arm of the business for the rest of this year. “We’ve manufactured, for the most part, the same way since 1879, and I want to see what we might be able to do differently,” he says. “Is there any positive disruption that we could implement, be it techniques, standardization, new tech-

nologies, new equipment, etc.? We are really looking to bring our manufacturing into the 21st century.”

A key element of the manufacturing effort is Justin Brands’ continued commitment to U.S. production. It’s no patriotic marketing gimmick, as half of Justin Brands’ dollar volume of goods sold is made stateside in its four factories. That volume, Watson adds, has risen substantially over the past few years. “We’ve never had less than three U.S. factories, but we’ve been increasing our production and are meeting daily about adding second shifts as well as installing machinery that improves efficiencies, which would make us more price competitive,” he says, lamenting that it’s not easy to find people skilled in boot making. Justin Brands currently employs about 800 people in its Texas and two Missouri factories

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

FW_04_14_QA_01.indd 12

4/11/14 11:47 AM

FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 15

4/9/14 12:46 PM

O&A and recently acquired Highland Shoe Factory in Maine. The latter specializes in handsewn products. Watson says in addition to a potential Highland Shoe brand down the road, it will manufacture western uppers. “We just sent them an order for 500 uppers and they were thrilled,” he reports. “We had HR representatives go there recently and talk about benefits and the possibility of hiring more employees. They were ecstatic. It was great to see.”

In his 21st year with Justin Brands and totaling 34 years in the shoe business, Watson has had the fortune of seeing many great things over his career.

But, like a lot of execs in this industry, he had no intention of entering the shoe business, let alone making a career of it. While pursuing his first love—playing baseball—Watson needed What are you reading? a way to pay for basic living expenses Think Big, Act Small by Jason while attending minor league tryouts.

Jennings. He researched a He took a job working the floor of a bunch of companies with local western store in Houston. As fate— double-digit growth in revenues and good timing—would have it, the and profits for 10 years and year was 1980, which also happened all thought big but acted to be when Urban Cowboy hit the big small. They empowered their screen. The owners began opening new employees, enabling them to be outlets to keep up with the stampede fluid and act quickly. in all things western. “We had about 12 stores at the time and they needed What is inspiring you? new management,” Watson recalls.

The other book I have “They asked if I would be interested been reading: Digital in becoming an assistant manager and, Disruption, which is about with my limited baseball abilities, my the next wave of how to reach options were, well, limited,” he adds consumers and build stronger with a laugh. relationships. We have a lot Not long after, the manager of the of positive disruption going store Watson was working at had taken on within Justin Brands ill and would be out for an extended of late that is presenting period of time. It became trial by fire as a lot of opportunities. It Watson learned the ropes during a very involves disruption in our robust holiday period followed by the manufacturing methods, annual, and very busy, Houston Rodeo. our social media efforts, Watson met a lot of important indusmarketing, etc. try people at trade shows and those calling on his store. Several broached What famous person in the topic of his crossing over to wholehistory do you most identify sale. Watson, just 23 at the time, was with? I admire Teddy intrigued as he was enjoying the westRoosevelt, a subtle, quiet, ern industry immensely. “I loved the outdoorsman with strong consumer that was shopping for westmorals and beliefs. ern product. Buying cowboy boots is a fun deal. It’s not like we were selling life insurance,” he says. “Plus, back then, there were a lot of mom-andpop businesses in retail and wholesale. They were just real people, and I loved the entire culture.”

Watson made the jump into wholesale as a sales rep job covering Texas with the Crown Boot Company. A natural salesman, it wasn’t long before he caught the attention of Nocona, where he made the move to run its Texas territory.

A few years later, it was on to Lucchese as vice president of sales and marketing. At age 30, Watson jumped at the opportunity to work on the big picture aspect of building a brand. “As a rep, you are pretty much resigned to working in a defined geographical boundary where you are given a price list, a set of samples and a program,” he says. “But if you hold the meeting, you can create the direction. I enjoyed creating those tools rather than being issued them.”

Watson created some pretty successful tools during his six-year tenure at Lucchese. In that period (1987-’93), sales skyrocketed from $3 million annually to $22 million. In addition to expanding distribution, he credits the introduction of new styles (particularly the Roper silhouette) as well as the addition of dress shoes, leather goods and shirts. “Lucchese was known as a custom brand and extremely boutique in its distribution,” he says. “We created stock styles and generated a day-to-day business for our retailers.”

Next came Justin Brands. Approached by the owners to come on as national sales manger, Watson viewed the company as the “pinnacle” in the western market and Justin, specifically, as the “ultimate” western brand. “It was the place everyone wanted to be,” Watson What is your motto? People says. Like his previous stint, success don’t care what you know until quickly ensued—enough where he was they know that you care. named president of Justin Brands in 1998, a year after the launch of what Who is your most coveted has since become a “huge” business in dinner guest? George W. Justin Original Workboots.

Bush. Around a campfire Watson has no intentions of moving would be best. elsewhere any time soon. He’s at the helm of four powerhouse brands and, What is your least favorite as a Berkshire Hathaway-owned comword? I’ve got two: “Can’t,” pany, has the financial resources to grow which makes me cringe, and the labels as well as make an acquisi“I.” As in “I did this” and “I tion if its the right fit. In fact, Watson did that.” We’re a 135-year-old is exactly where he believes he fits best: company and there have been removing obstacles so each brand can generations of people before reach its fullest potential. us who have helped get us to Looking back on his career, Watson where we are today and many says he took a pay cut with each new job. here helping us now.

While he advises against that strategy for the “weak of heart,” it’s a reflection What sound do you love? of his big picture approach to business.

Water in motion, be it a lake, “I did it for the opportunities to grow in stream or river. my career,” he says. Watson’s embrace of positive disruption represents a simiWhat is your favorite homelar embrace of opportunities for growth. town memory? I grew up in Coupled with the growing popularity of Houston, TX, and our family heritage brands, western fashion, U.S.spent summers a few hours made goods and work boots, it’s easy north in the small town of to see why he believes the best is yet Wimberley, along the Blanco to come for Justin Brands. “We foreRiver. It was just warm aftersee no let up in sight, and we have litnoons riding inner tubes in the tle intention of slowing down anytime clear rapids. soon,” Watson says.

OFF THE CUFF

How’s business?

Great, which is due to good management, of course (laughs). Seriously, it’s a combination of offering quality products, addressing the made-in-the-U.SA. demand with our four factories, having great relationships with our retail partners and, in the last couple of years particularly, a proactive outreach to connect with consumers through social media.

A lot of what you mentioned involves business fundamentals. Might there be other factors in play contributing to Justin Brands’ six-year run of double-digit gains in sales and revenues?

It’s multi-pronged. We’ve got established, iconic brands and a wider population that has become more familiar with them. While we are garnering more

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

FW_04_14_QA_01.indd 14

4/10/14 6:25 PM

CMC_FWP_0414_FullTrim.pdf

4/4/2014

2:00:28 PM

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 21

4/9/14 12:48 PM

O&A shelf space, as new consumers enter into our respective markets they are more familiar with our brands.

Is there any other kind of macro fashion influence fueling interest in Justin Brands and the western category as a whole?

Right now, the boot business is particularly strong. There’s an increased fascination with western culture and America in general. That ties very well into what we stand for with respect to our heritage. It may sound a bit corny, but I think a lot of people aspire to that independent, “go west young man” lifestyle and attitude as well as the outdoors in general. It’s grounded in individuality. And our brands play right into that whole sentiment. In addition, consumers today are looking for authentic brands and products. When you take all our brands—Justin founded in 1879, Chippewa in 1901, Tony Lama in 1911 and Nocona in 1925—it amounts to more than 450 years of brand equity. So that Americana, feel-good aspect combined with our rich heritage and authenticity plays well to what is growing audience.

Having lived through the Urban Cowboy craze, is this current run close?

The current, what I call, Taylor Swift Effect of sundresses paired with cowboy boots, has been huge. If you go to a college football game today, almost every young woman is wearing that look. And when the young women are wearing those boots, it’s okay for the young men to wear boots as well. It’s a clean, clean look. We’ve also had the Garth Brooks era and there was a period when vintage cowboy boots from the ’40s and ’50s were all the rage in ’06 and ’07, but they haven’t equaled the Taylor Swift Effect. What’s more, our recent growth has not been driven by any one brand or style. It’s women’s fashion all the way to men’s work boots. It’s across our portfolio’s spectrum.

That sort of reach is rare, right?

It is. We have high heel, pointed toe women’s boots and low heel, broad square toe men’s cowboy boots selling well. We have cowhides, ostrich skin and caiman skin styles selling well. We’ve got kids’ boots all the way to steel toe, waterproof and insulated boots performing well. Chippewa is experiencing double-digit growth with its loggers, hikers, packers and motorcycle boots. We even have casual chukkas that are selling well. It might create a mix in manufacturing that’s tough for us to manage, but we’re not running strictly black ropers.

It’s expanding your retail distribution, yes?

Absolutely. Our current client list amazes me. Our brands are selling in Nordstrom, Buckle, Dillard’s, boutiques and pro golf shops as well as traditional outlets like Tractor Supply. I struggle to find other brands that translate to such a breadth of retail, which gives you the scope of products we are offering. That breadth in styles along with our authenticity, heritage and strong commitment to offering made-in-the-U.S.A. products are all factors that play into our success.

How much is this commitment to making products in the U.S. aimed at the patriotic appeal of your customers?

There’s always been dyed-in-the-wool types that check the label of where a boot is made. But there’s also a growing patriotic feel-good element among consumers in general. And there’s plenty of people overseas that seek out the Made in U.S.A. logo for authenticity reasons. Beyond those factors, making product here allows us to be quicker to market and we can control our quality better. We also use our own factories as product devel-

FW_04_14_QA_01.indd 16

4/10/14 6:26 PM

opment centers where we experiment with new leathers and constructions.

While we still have to make money, there are distinct competitive advantages to having domestic manufacturing.

Not to mention providing jobs to all those people and their families.

Absolutely. I visited our factories recently and I wish you could have seen the look in the eyes regarding how much this means to them. This is their livelihoods, and we’re going to do everything we can to protect that and, by extension, their families. Yet it’s just good business. We are not doing this as charity. They don’t want to do it as a charity, either. They are proud of the products they make. But you can’t work three days a week and support a family. So we are going to make sure we have a system in place to develop sustained growth in our U.S. factories. It’s got to be a win-win for everybody.

Does it surprise you that, coming out of one of the worst recessions in history, consumers are willing to pay $100 more for Americanmade boots?

There are a lot of people who buy quality and will spend extra for it. I’ve talked with plenty of consumers that say they went through three pairs of $99 boots and would have been better off buying that $189, higherquality boot. I’d say the leading purchase decision is quality followed by value and then patriotism. The latter is icing on the cake, mostly. But regardless of where our product originates from, our goal is to always

be best in class. For example, there’s a lot of brand loyalty for Justin and that consumer has told us they would like to stay in the brand all day, but they can’t afford $189 work boots. That forced us to source that product overseas, but I contend that we are still the best in class in that price range. And an added value, for our retailers, is that we carry more than one million pairs of boots in stock. They can order from us on Monday at 8 a.m. and the boots can be shipped that day or the next. We commit to inventory, which helps with their turns.

Speaking of brand extensions, Justin entered the golf business last year.

How’s that going?

So far, so good. It goes back to the guy who wants to stay in our product all day. If a guy wears our exotic boot or work boot on the job, he may also wear our snake boot when he’s bird hunting. Or, he’s an attorney who rides a Harley on the weekend and wears our Chippewa motorcycle boots. Same goes for golf: We are pairing exotic leathers that we have used for 100 years in cowboy boots and are offering high-end golf shoes. We’ve been receiving calls from our retailers saying the customer wants it in a dress shoe, too. We are playing on our quality, heritage and tradition to crossover into this market.

The same can be said of Justin’s extension into work boots, which is not an easy category to break into.

When we launched our Justin Originals Workboots division in ’97 it was a huge challenge. Wolverine and Red Wing are iconic brands in that >47

Uniquely You! Quality Painted Leathers, Unique Detailing and 100% Hand-Made Artistic Designs.

Am

ar yl

Open Stock | In-Stock

lis

Come and Visit Us at These Upcoming Shows!

FFANY

Jun. 03 - Jun. 5 Americas Hall II New York, NY Booth#2014

Atlanta Apparel Show

Thrill Lo

nia

FW_04_14_QA_01.indd 17

NEAC

n

youtube.com/SpringFootwear

Jun. 5 - Jun. 8 AmericasMart Atlanta, GA

Jun. 15 - Jun. 18 Royal Plaza Trade Center Marlboro, MA facebook.com/SpringStepShoes

800.962.0030 | www.springfootwear.com

4/10/14 6:26 PM

THE EUROPEAN REPORT A bevy of fall trends and buzz about the GDS show’s upcoming new concept and earlier dates had attendees talking—and shoe shopping. By Angela Velasquez

P

erhaps it was fitting that unseasonably sunny and warm weather welcomed attendees to the final installment of GDS in Düsseldorf, Germany, as the industry has come to know it over the decades. The show that has always been scheduled at the tail end of the buying season (against a familiar backdrop of misty, cool weather in March for fall product editions) will undergo a major makeover come this summer. Show organizers will introduce a new concept and earlier seasonal dates for the biannual event, beginning with the July 30-Aug. 1 edition. (The fall go-round of GDS will be held Feb. 4-6, 2015.)

Now billed as a kick-off trade fair for shoes and accessories, Director of Project Development Ute Windhausen-Kiss says times are changing and GDS needed to adapt. “The exhibitors appreciate that we are approaching trade shows in a new way,” she explains. This past show saw a 10 percent dip in attendance, which Werner Matthias Dornscheidt, president and CEO of Messe Dusseldorf, points to the structural change affecting the footwear sector. “You have to accept that the days of traditional fashion trade fairs are coming to an end. New impulses and fresh concepts are called for, which is why I am happy to see a new GDS in July,” he states.

Highlights of the upcoming GDS will include three new exhibit groupings.

Highstreet—The Modern Pule takes inspiration from famous retail strips around the world. From London’s Oxford Street to New York’s Fifth Avenue, a vast

selection of footwear will feature a mix of leading men’s, women’s and children’s labels like Manas, Birkenstock and Primigi in one segment. It will offer retailers one-stop-shopping of trendy, sport and comfort styles. The booths will also be inspired by storefronts, making the setting feel retail-friendly. Pop-Up—The Urban Groove segment will feature an eclectic market of up-and-coming street brands such as Pepe Jeans Footwear and A.S.98.

Studio—The Premium Note section will be dedicated to high-end boutique labels such as Ash, Jaime Mascaro and Chie Mihara. A sleek and luxurious stage will emphasize the product, allowing craftsmanship and attention to detail to shine.

So far so good, report show organizers, regarding reaction to the shift in format and dates for GDS. Ara, Gabor, Ash, Mephisto and S.Oliver are just a handful of the brands that have signed on for the the next show, as well as international leaders Clarks, Wolverine Worldwide and Skechers. In addition, Director of GDS Kirstin Deutelmoser says exhibitors who did not take part in the fair over the past few seasons, including Gant, Replay and Marc O’Polo, will be returning.

In the meantime, there were plenty of new Fall ’14 styles presented by 800 exhibitors, including first-timers Steve Madden and Diadora, at the most recent show. Boots stood tall, calf hair swathed loafers and designers revealed hidden depths to materials with unique burnishes and leather treatments. And despite talk about lasts becoming longer and pointier, the boldest looks were flatforms, slip-on sneakers and boots with weighty lug soles. What follows is a breakdown of the key trends spotted at GDS.

Heavy Base

Expect to find more sturdy block heels to balance the voluminous shapes ready-to-wear designers are playing with in their fall collections. The big-time styles meet fashionistas’ hefty height requirements—perfect for those who want a more mainstream option to uber-trendy lug soles and sporty flatforms—and can take on a number of looks spanning city chic with smooth leathers to refined grunge on Mary Janes and ’90s-era combat boots in inky hues.

Ash

Flat Line

From creepers to traditional loafers and chukkas, designers are giving flatform soles another go, betting they strike hot on this summer’s crop of sporty sandals.

The youthful look is heightened by pops of cobalt, neon yellow and white.

Kenzo

18 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

fw_04_05_trend_feature_01caps.indd 18

4/10/14 1:19 PM

Space Race

The spotlight continues to shine on gold footwear and hardware but hints of Space Age hues in men’s and women’s alludes to an oncoming shift towards metallic silver, gray and blue.

Materials smack of futuristic styling with molten-like silver paired with stretch goring and mirror-like platinum wedges.

In men’s, burnished penny loafers and oxfords show off a tinge of midnight blue and pewter, while sneakers and combat boots in bold metallic and patent hues add a blast of color.

Kmb

Profission Bottier

Ras

Open Season

Peek-a-boo cut-outs from the likes of French Connection and Kenzo touch on a number of trending silhouettes including heel-less combat boots, western-inspired wedges with chop outs and peep toe hikers. They are statementmaking looks that can cross over into spring.

Club Kid

Along with Mary Janes and combat boots, the ’90s revival has resurrected club kid gear.

Over-the-knee platform boots are kicked up a notch with well-defined lug soles and stretch materials that melt into modern day leggings and skinny jeans.

Trailblazer

Take a rugged hiker and pair it with a sneaker’s rubber sole and colorful laces and you have a shoe that sums up the seasons’ passion for hybrid footwear. The outdoor-meets-athletic mash up is an essential street style for denimwearing men.

Paul & Joe Sister Antonio Barbato Dumond 2014 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 19

fw_04_05_trend_feature_01caps.indd 19

4/10/14 1:19 PM

PORTUGAL POP

Good Sport

Refined lounge pants and designer sweats help integrate athletic footwear into casual collections. The best are topped off with leather uppers in moody seasonal hues, calf hair and stark white outsoles for boldness.

The comfort hub made a stylish impression at GDS with a crop of innovative street brands targeting a millennial audience.

Oliveira

Young designer Nelson Oliveira’s DIY attitude is on full display in his men’s and women’s collections.

Pulling inspiration from a whirl of categories, styles spanning laceless sneakers to sneaker/boot hybrids and T-strap kicks are outfitted with detachable pieces like old-school kilties. Each of the street-to-chic styles has a modern, techy vibe thanks to Oliveira’s blending of buttery soft leathers with bold flatforms, an athletic color palette and graphic color blocking.

Bulaggi

Zip Code

Marc

Zippers are getting top billing across men’s and women’s footwear as a fully functioning closure and embellishment. For easy-on/off wear, the hardware replaces laces and buckles, lending a biker vibe to classic ankle booties and oxfords. Rows of chunky gold zipper teeth stretch across outsoles for a pop of metallic. And brands like Vizzano create threedimensional effects on boots and pumps with uppers that appear to be unzipped, revealing another layer of shoe. .

iShoes

The new brand taps into two powerhouse trends—sneakers and customization—with its line of suede and canvas kicks. Each sneaker features an interchangeable Velcro strap on the side, which the wearer can swap out to change up the look

Lemon Jelly

By applying the same unique textures and rich colors that permeate the leather market into its women’s range of all-rubber oxfords, Chelsea boots, flats, equestrian boots and more, the green brand looks wiser

Weekend Warrior

The reach of combat boots extends beyond teens with grown-up monochromatic styles and plush details.

Shearling lining, quilting and floral embroideries up the everyday appeal of these heavyweights.

of the shoe. Retailing for $8 each, Brand Owner Vasco Hipólito says the straps are a fun and affordable fashion statement to collect. Straps range from the classic (i.e. dots, stripes and animal prints) to more topical designs with artist collaborations and sport logos. The brand also gets quirky with scratch n’ sniff and reflector designs for kids.

and sharper beyond it’s one year.

“We’ve really set out to use the recyclable materials in a new highfashion way,” says Ricardo Oliveira, marketing manager. “It has a posh look.” Oliveira names a mash up of trends including flocking, glitter and accent hardware as bestsellers.

Other highlights include Chelsea boots on a bold creeper-inspired outsole, classic riding boots and quilted handbags dotted with subtle gold studs.

Dr. Martens

20

fw_04_05_trend_feature_01caps.indd 20

4/10/14 1:20 PM

Our

=

more!

Bonus coverage online:

Facebook.com/Footwearplusmagazine

@FootwearPlusMag

Footwearplusmagazine.com/sole-searching 2014 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

F O L LOW T H E FA S H I O N L E A D E R : F O OT W E A R P L U S E S T. 1 9 9 0 fw_04_05_trend_feature_01caps.indd 21

4/11/14 3:28 PM

wh at ’s s e l l i ng w e s te rn

GRIFS Davie, FL GRIFS WESTERN HAS been a Davie, FL, staple in western duds since 1969, and business has shown no signs of slowing down. With a 10,000-squarefoot store and more than 4,000 pairs of boots on display—in addition to racks of clothing, handbags, saddles, hats and more—Grifs’ popularity has only grown over the last 40-plus years. “We’ve been here so long, we’ve become like a museum,” Vice President Jennifer Butler says. “People come into (nearby) Miami and they’ll often have a driver take them to Grifs. We carry a little bit of everything. It could take hours to browse our store.”

Grifs underwent a $1 million renovation two years ago, expanding the building’s warehouse as a way to flaunt more footwear and making other miscellaneous repairs. “We were hit by a hurricane and the roof came off,” Butler says. “But we needed a facelift. It’s a beautiful store now. It’s made such a difference.” In particular, Butler credits hiring a visual display expert with delivering huge dividends. “We’ve really figured out how to make the store so ‘shoppable,’” she says. “Customers come in now and just hang out.” —Samantha Sciarrotta Top-selling brands: Durango, Lucchese, Ariat and Dan Post.

Top-selling accessories: A neat selection of high-end handbags from Eternal Perspective and Double J Saddlery. You can’t really find them anywhere else.

Did you meet sales expectations this winter? We exceeded them. We had a lot of tourist traffic—South Americans, Europeans and Russians.

There are no other stores that really come close to matching our experience or selection. We also have a feed store and deliver to all the ranches, and that helps draw a lot of locals.

Any surprises of late, good or bad? The amount of boots that we’ve been selling—it’s enormous. It’s crazy, really. When boots are hot, we do great.

If women go back to heels, that’s when we’ll be in trouble!

Are there any trends you’re high heading into summer? We are focusing more on fashion. While we always stay true to the core western market, a lot of what’s been selling of late is boutique style clothes. So we’ve added some merchandise there.

How would you describe your customer’s overall mood? Optimistic.

Maybe it’s because we have so many foreigners shopping here. Perhaps things are more positive as far as their governments go?

Fabulous fringe

Order Today! 1.800.848.9452 durangoleatherco.com DLC0013

What is the biggest challenge facing your business? Knowing about and then buying what people will like. You can’t consider your own likes. The particular challenge is the tastes of (younger) women, which change so often. You never know what they are going to want 10 months from now.

Do you cater to both cowboys and urban cowboys? We have a rodeo arena located around the block from us, so we get the real cowboys. And the urban cowboys come in from our involvement with numerous charities and them holding western theme nights.

What is the Taylor Swift effect on your business? She’s helped make boots and shorts really popular.

If you could change one thing about Grifs, what would it be? I would make it even bigger.

FW_04_13_WhatsSelling_01.indd 22

4/9/14 4:35 PM

PINTO RANCH Houston, TX WHEN STELZIG’S—A high-end western wear retailer based in Houston— went out of business in 2002, customers were left looking elsewhere for luxury boots, belts, buckles, hats and other buckaroo garb. That’s where local retail maven Walter Pye, Jr. stepped in, opening Pinto Ranch Fine Western Wear in 2004. “He realized the luxury market was underserved,” says Bea Garcia, director of marketing. “He filled a hole.”

Business at Pinto’s has been booming. According to Garcia, the western culture is more prominent in pop culture and that crosses over into fashion.

“Western wear is the new wear, and everything goes with cowboy boots,” she offers. The chain’s flagship location, an 11,000-square-foot lodge-inspired structure, is filled with more than 4,500 pairs of men’s and women’s handmade boots as well as clothing, jewelry, belts, buckles, saddles and other accessories. “We carry the upper range of western style,” Garcia notes, adding that additional outlets opened in Dallas in ’07 and Las Vegas in ’11.

“Cowboy boots are iconic footwear,” Garcia adds. “Customers love to take a piece home, whether they’re from the United States or overseas.” —S.S. Top-selling brands: Old Gringo, Rocketbuster (we are their only retailer), Stallion, which specializes in exotic skins, Liberty Boots, out of Canada, and Lucchese, our tried-and-true, handmade classic.

Who is your customer? He or she is a luxury customer who doesn’t mind spending a little extra to get quality merchandise that’s going to last. All of our boots are handmade, the clothing is one-of-a-kind and our jewelry is made locally.

Best-selling accessories: Belts. They’re all made in skins to match boots.

Elephant, hornback, caiman—every skin you can think of. Our jewelry is also popular. We sell a lot of one-of-a-kind pieces. Once something sells, it’s gone.

Did this winter meet sales expectations? I’d say so. The longer we’re out there, the more people hear about us. Our online store has also grown tremendously. People were cautious about buying a $2,000 pair of boots from a website at first, but they’re more confident buying expensive items online.

Are customers spending more freely of late? We had a few rough years with the recession. But we didn’t go under, and we’re very proud of that.

Thankfully, they’re more willing to spend again.

Is American-made important to your customers? Probably more so than any other type of retailer. A lot of them are ranchers, or they come from families who were based in American manufacturing. They’re very loyal to that “Made in the U.S.A.” label. I would love to say that’s all we carried, but it’s impossible. But at least half of our merchandise is made in the U.S.— and definitely the majority of our boots.

What is the best decision your business has made in the last year?

Focusing more on our website. We’re unique in that we cater to a luxury customer. Whereas most western stores are geared to everyday customers with lowland western wear, and hardly any of them have websites.

What are the differences between a cowboy and an urban cowboy?

Cowboys are all about ranches, horses, cattle. The urban cowboy is more willing to go out on the town in jeans, a Western blazer, a Robert Graham shirt and a pair of crocodile boots. The cowboy wants more utility out of his wardrobe.

FW_04_13_WhatsSelling_01.indd 23

High flyin’ fringe Order Today! 1.800.848.9452 durangoboot.com DCRD150

4/9/14 4:36 PM

DEFINING WESTERN

Western is a direction as much as it’s a lifestyle. It spans traditional looks that never go out of style in core markets to mainstream interpretations that ride the ups and downs of the genre’s popularity to subtle hints that add a kick to basics.

Fringe, a stacked heel and inlay detail are design elements that

SPANNING TRADITIONAL TO TWERKED OUT, THE LATEST INTERPRETATIONS OF WESTERN STYLE FOR FALL ’14 REVEAL A BREADTH OF SELECTION AS VAST AS ITS CONSUMER AUDIENCE.

are as much western as they are American. b Lately, western has been experiencing a revival on a broader scale. New York Fashion Week saw several designers incorporate the look into their fall collections while the riding boot silhouette has

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

fw_04_14_defining_western_05.indd 24

4/10/14 4:52 PM

reigned supreme for several seasons now. Some also point to the crossover popularity of Taylor Swift for ushering in a sundress and cowboy boot fashion two-step that spans far beyond honkytonks and rodeos. And unlike previous

MILES OF SUEDE fringe swished down the runway on bags, coats and skirts at the recent Michael Kors Fall ’14 show. Tommy Hilfiger accented hems with the shaggy embellishment, too. Even Rebecca Minkoff topped off two-tone booties with colored tassels. But while the favored trim of rock stars and bohemians is back—and with a decidedly western flair—it’s business as usual at Minnetonka. The family-owned Minneapolis-based moccasin maker has been crafting fringed footwear for adults and kids alike since 1946.

“We excel at fringe,” claims President Scott Sessa, adding that the embellishment’s recent runway renaissance is a nod to classic Americana and is perfectly encapsulated by the brand’s simple, beaded Thunderbird moccasin, a style that has resonated with millions of consumers worldwide for more than 50 years and counting. “Retailers are still excited about Minnetonka [and the western revival] bodes well for us,” he says. For Fall ’14, the brand has applied fringe to a number of suede styles easily suited to a range of women’s wardrobes. There’s a three-layer fringe tall boot for festivalgoers, an ankle-high western boot with antique studs and a slim bootie on a low heel with wraparound straps and tassels.

“We’re fortunate that the brand has a wide age appeal,” Sessa shares, noting that it hits every demographic from college kids to stylish moms. And with wholesale prices ranging from $21 to $49.50, he believes that Minnetonka is a natural extension to any retailer’s buy when it comes to rounding out their western assortment. “For some of our customers we offer the opportunity to touch on the western trend without going all in but traditional western stores, which we also sell to, sell a lot of Minnetonka, too,” he says. “We don’t compete directly with western boots but we feel we can get more of the customer’s day.” —Lyndsay McGregor

western fashion popularity

MINNETONKA

spikes (think Urban Cowboy

Fri n ge B e n e f i t s

and Garth Brooks), Swift’s reach is broader, deeper and (continues to be) much longer. b Last but not least, western fashion is in step with the overall heritage movement that is sweeping consumers. In the wake of the recession, shoppers are turning to trusted brands and classic looks. Not as willing to take financial or fashionable risks and seeking long-term wear from their purchases, western styling presents a sure bet.

2014 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

fw_04_14_defining_western_05.indd 25

4/10/14 4:52 PM

N DURA

GO

bele e R e Th

tte

WHEN THE WORDS “outlaw” and “fun” are built into each one of your designs, you’re bound to gain a reputation. “It’s our heritage to be a little irreverent and have a badass side,” says Amber Vanwy, sales and marketing manager of Durango, a division of Rocky Brands. That would explain the built-in bottle opener camouflaged by sweet pink flowers, turquoise rick rack and a scarf print wrap snaking around fall’s popular Crush style. “Those words are always in the back of our head and I think that is what makes us stand out as a brand,” Vanwy adds.

And badass ladies are taking note. Take pop star Miley Cyrus who is currently rocking white and red bejeweled Durango boots on her “Bangerz” world tour, paired with what else but revealing cat suits and furry club kid jackets. Or the slew of brides donning cowboy boots down the aisle and pinning the images to Pinterest. Vanwy says TV is helping to mainstream the category as well, naming shows like “Sons of Anarchy” and “The Voice” as major influencers. “I mean, Blake Shelton is a household name now,” she quips.

The way Durango sees it, the more big brands (i.e. Ralph Lauren and Chanel) that get into the western business and the more celebrities sporting the shoes, the more it legitimizes the category for customers who are on the fence about buying their first pair of cowboy boots. “They help create more awareness and people become less afraid to try it,” the exec says of the bold look.

For Fall ’14, there is plenty to choose from including old school western boots decked out with patriotic stars, pops of fuchsia, jade and purple, and even a spot of leopard. “We’re doing a pretty heritage collection with leather outsoles—super traditional styles that are based on throwback western designs,” Vanwy describes. The brand also sees a spike in demand for footwear with accessories, adding belts, clip-ons and fringe to boots. To complete the look, Durango is updating key pieces in its range of apparel and accessories, which launched last year. Vanwy says the line of studded biker jackets, fringe vests and rugged handbags has given Durango something new yet familiar to offer its longtime retailers. “It’s executed in a way where our customers can get around it. It’s all leather, so we aren’t going too out of our area of expertise,” she notes.

But it isn’t all fun and games. Where brands tend to veer in one direction—either fashion or true work western—Vanwy says Durango’s blue-collar roots factor in its distinction amongst the corral of brands jumping on the western bandwagon. “We take care of the cute and fashionable, but there’s also a lot of comfort woven into the line that comes from our insight in making basic comfortable work boots that people stand in all day long,” she explains. “We know our materials, but we also know how to build a cute boot above that comfort.” —Angela Velasquez

“IT’S OUR HERITAGE TO BE A LITTLE IRREVERENT AND HAVE A BADASS SIDE.”

26 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

fw_04_14_defining_western_05.indd 26

4/10/14 4:53 PM

NOTHING SCREAMS AMERICA more loudly than a pair of rough-and-tumble cowboy boots, but this country’s first buckaroos actually came from Mexico. Known as vaqueros (the Spanish word for cattle herders) they taught the Anglo-American settlers in Texas, New Mexico and California everything they became legendary for. So it’s fitting that Taos looked to the southwest for its Fall ’14 collection. Inspired by the region’s natural beauty and melting pot of cultures, the brand combined earthy tones, rich leathers and intricate stitching to bow boots as rooted in history as the New Mexico town from which it takes its name.

“Western is such a classic, cool category,” says President Glen Barad. “At Taos we try to take trends and ideas and kind of broaden the customer. Because it has that southwest inspiration consumers really have a lot more options to wear it.” Short silhouettes on lightweight outsoles feature floral embroidery, nail head studs and perforations for a kick that’s a little more forgiving than hardcore western, says Barad, while burnished toes and heels add some authentic flavor to slouchy tall boots in black or tan suede. “We put zippers on them to make them a little easier to put on and off and the colors are friendlier,” he notes, adding, “What we try to do is be trend-right but we don’t offend anybody.”

Retailers have been responding positively, Barad shares. “We’re getting in a lot of new doors, from beautiful boutiques in the northeast to more casual ones in the southwest. You just feel good when it’s embraced by a great cross section of customers,” he says. Retailing from $235 to $255, he believes that the Taos price point combined with its comfort-infused removable footbeds provide an important point of difference at the point of purchase. Len Jacobson, director of communications, agrees. “As we evolve the looks on these constructions and try to explore new things, new colors, new ideas and embellishments, we’ll always try to make the styles accessible. We’re building stuff that has more staying power,” he says. —L.M.

Southw

est Sw agger

PS KAUFMAN

The Renegade

DESIGNER PAUL KAUFMAN’S western tale begins in an era when the world was recovering from a global recession, fashion was veering towards bold and strong shapes and the glitterati were eager to get back to their lavish lifestyles.

Sound familiar? It was the ’80s and Kaufman—then designing his Santa Monica-based punk footwear brand NaNa Shoes— was creating rugged boots with a tough-as-nails ethos for the likes of Sonic Youth’s Kim Gordon when he struck gold on a western-inspired style.

Flash forward to 2011 when actress and tastemaker Chloë Sevigny showed interest in the dormant brand for her collaboration with Opening Ceremony and Kaufman, who moved on from NaNa and was in the midst of designing his eponymous label, went back to his archives and dug out that golden nugget. “That type of interest made me revisit and revamp some of our old styles, “ he recalls.

Fall ’14 rings in women’s styles spanning ankle boots with leather covered studs and exaggerated goring to ones with simple side zippers placed on an angle. Boots retail for $325 to $499, with most under $400.

Western influences have been a mainstay in the PS Kaufman line since its inception, mainly because each shoe is Goodyear

welted—a cowboy hallmark— and handcrafted in Mexico by the same artisans who also make horse saddles. Those inherent qualities appeal to a westernseeking customer, but Kaufman says it’s not a direct iteration.

Rather, he says, it’s about the mood the look evokes. “A lot of it has to do with the edginess of those styles. I’m big on the mash up and like to mix elements,” Kaufman explains, noting that he might just take a toecap or last with western roots.

Team it with his punkish pedigree, handiwork with recyclable materials (Kaufman uses tire rubber in outsoles) and eye for the offbeat—be it glitter blasted uppers or an ankle boot topped off with a harness, ankle straps and zippers—and the designer says he is in the realm of creating footwear for people who want something unique. That amount of detail and complexity also speaks to boutiques like Ego-Trip in Canada, Chicago’s City Soles and Bus Stop in Philadelphia.

“We might be a little more elusive and under the radar, but we’ve built a clientele and following one person at a time,” Kaufman explains. Exposure in Anthropologie and Free People stores, which have picked up the brand’s hand-painted designs, has helped, too.

Whether Kaufman sees a long future with western design will be determined by what inspires him in his personal life. “For me, it isn’t about western, but what moves me, like music,” he says. “Western cycles in and out. Trends are so broad and everyone follows them, but that’s why we have to take our own path and develop our own niche.” —A.V.

2014 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 27

fw_04_14_defining_western_05.indd 27

4/11/14 10:57 AM

TREND SPOTTING

1

2

SOUTH BY SOUTHWEST LEGENDARY COWBOY STYLE LIVES ON IN THESE MODERN DAY MUST-HAVES. By Angela Velasquez

3

This page: 1. Durango 2. Patricia Nash 3. Made 4. Dune 5. Rialto 6. Sperry Top-Sider Opposite: 1. Boulet 2. Reef 3.

Inkkas 4. Ariat

6 4 5 28

FW_04_14_trendspotting_05.indd 28

4/9/14 11:11 AM

1

2

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

3

4 29

FW_04_14_trendspotting_05.indd 29

4/9/14 11:11 AM

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 30

4/11/14 1:25 PM

Koolaburra tall wedge boots, Free People lace dress, T-shirt by American Eagle Outfitters, Elizabeth & James bolero, rosary by Brandy Melville, pendant necklace by Natalie Frigo.

31

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 31

4/11/14 11:28 AM

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 32

4/11/14 11:28 AM

Tony Lama cowboy boots, stylist’s buttondown shirt, socks and hat by Urban Outfitters.

33 33

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 33

4/11/14 11:29 AM

This page: Minnetonka fringe bootie. Opposite: Old Gringo fringe and studded boots, cardigan by Wildfox, Gap shorts, snake ring by Robert Lee Morris, vintage hat.

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 34

4/11/14 1:26 PM

35

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 35

4/11/14 11:29 AM

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 36

4/11/14 11:31 AM

This page: Taos denim boot.

Opposite: Slingbacks by Ivy Kirzhner, Wildfox sequin dress, thermal by Jet Rag, AllSaints hat, H&M socks.

37

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 37

4/11/14 11:31 AM

38

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 38

4/11/14 11:31 AM

This page: Studded cowboy boot by Harley-Davidson. Opposite: Johnny Ringo turquoise western boot, Wildfox sequin top.

39

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 39

4/11/14 1:26 PM

This page: Sendra mixed media pull-on boot. Opposite: Fortress of Inca knit-accented boots, Jet Rag T-shirt, Free People shorts, American Apparel socks.

Fashion editor: Angela Velasquez; stylist: Daniela Jung; hair and makeup: Angie Parker/Altered Agency; model: Britt/One Management.

40

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 40

4/11/14 11:35 AM

41

FWP_04_05_14_fashion_06.indd 41

4/11/14 11:35 AM

EDITOR’S PICKS

Opposites Attract Black and white contrasting pairs well with quirky street styles.

D E S I G N E R C H AT : Adriana Epelboim

Walk the Line important thing for me is to make people aware of ‘the line’ identity,” Epelboim explains. “I hope the world will one day be able to recognize it as a unique symbol in the industry.” —Angela Velasquez Who is the Alepel target customer? Her simple look is accented by her selection of shoes. She dresses in jeans with a black or white shirt and blazer, but she is always elegant and sophisticated.

What is your first shoe memory? Getting my first pair of designer shoes. They were Sergio Rossi. I still have them, and I still love his designs.

Who is your style icon? Audrey Hepburn.

Which celebrity would you love to see in one of your designs? Kate Moss, Jennifer Lawrence, Penelope Cruz, Nicole Kidman—they are all stylish, elegant and powerful women.

Where do you like to shop? Intermix, Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Koko & Palenki in Miami.

Which shoes in your closet are getting the most wear? Besides Alepel, I wear a lot of Valentino.

It is one of my favorite brands that have always inspired me. The Rockstud Collection is amazing.

I can’t get over them.

What shoe must every woman have in their closet? High heel pumps. They are a must.

Which trends do you hope to never see again?

Overalls and bare midriffs.

Which designer do you admire most? I love Alexander McQueen. I admire the drama and extravagance he always brought to life within his pieces.

What is your favorite part of your job? I love to brainstorm and to create a strong concept for every single design decision we make.

If you weren’t designing shoes, what would you be doing? I love to paint. When I was young I always thought I would be an artist, but now I can’t see myself doing anything besides design.

Melissa

Chooka

Lika Mimika

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

SOARING HEIGHTS, QUALITY materials and enduring design has many meanings to Pratt Institute architect graduate turned shoe designer, Adriana Epelboim. And the Fall ’14 launch of her women’s collection coined Alepel (derived from the German words “apfel” and “baum” meaning apple tree, alluding to her tempting and daring styles) is the perfect merging of the two worlds. “Shoes are the only item in fashion that can be compared to a building,” Epelboim explains. “It has structure, stability, geometry.”

The end result is a sleek and balanced line of short boots, platform pumps and two-piece flats and heels, each with a bold, color contrasting line along the heels and soles of the shoes—a patented signature that Epelboim says distinguishes the brand. Her own love for fashion and architecture is reverberated throughout the collection with steel gray and silver colorblocking and geometric combinations of black and white and linear patterns. The signature lines pop in red and yellow. “Shoes can change everything about a woman’s look,” she says, adding, “These are for strong, powerful women who are not afraid to wear shoes as a statement piece.” The fall collection wholesales for $100 to $150.

Supported by an experienced team, the selftaught designer plans to grow the line at a realistic pace, targeting high-end independent boutiques and chains. Most of all, Epelboim intends to build upon Alepel’s signature line detail as part of the company’s branding. “We know it may take some time to reach major retailers, but the most

Pretty Loafers

42 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

FW_04_14_Shoe_Salon_01.indd 42

4/8/14 6:32 PM

FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 19

4/9/14 12:50 PM

E-beat BUYER CHAT

Rosemary Lee ModCloth

Trying Before Buying At-home try-on services bring the fitting room to the living room, but is the added convenience worth the investment?

IF THERE’S ONE thing online consumers crave, it’s free shipping. Now that this perk has evolved from an added incentive to an expectation, some online retailers are upping the ante by shipping product to customers before they’ve even paid for it. Consumers can try on several items, send back unwanted styles and only pay for what they choose to keep.

Shipping is free both ways and there is no obligation to buy. Eyewear brand Warby Parker has been offering such a service for years, but today consumers can test wear everything from engagement rings to blue jeans without leaving the house—or paying in advance.

So what’s in it for the seller? For one, it’s a way for new brands to hook potential customers, says Angela Edgeworth, founder of Brian James, which launched its line of well-cushioned women’s shoes a year ago and ships up to five pairs for free for 12 days. “We make really comfortable shoes and we wanted to get them on people’s feet,” she notes. “Our challenge, as an unknown brand, was getting our shoes out there.” Edgeworth adds that Brian James’ core customers—busy moms who often can’t make it to a store—appreciate the convenience factor.

It’s far from perfect, of course. For consumers, it’s a much slower way to shop. And for businesses, it’s a long time for inventory to be in limbo and the shipping costs can add up. It’s one of the reasons why Heels.com stopped offering its Heels At Home program before the holidays (but may re-introduce it again in the fall). The Ashton Kutcher-owned T-shirt purveyor Pickwick & Weller recently axed its try-on service, too.

Michelle Madhok, online shopping expert and founder of SheFinds. com, isn’t surprised, pointing out that after a number of try-ons products can start to look like floor samples. “Then there’s the free shipping and free returns, which can eat into your bottom line, too,” she says.

Poonam Goyal, a Bloomberg Industries senior retail analyst, agrees, noting, “That’s probably one of the biggest risks to margin.”

But for businesses with their own fulfillment center and the ability to process returns quickly, the conversion potential makes such services attractive. As Goyal reasons, “Since there are no strings attached, the retailer may strike a purchase that wasn’t intended if the shoppers like what they try on.” —Lyndsay McGregor

MODCLOTH MAY BE synonymous with all things twee and retro, but modern marvels have fueled its massive success. Today, the business has 125,000 Twitter followers, 263,000 Instagram followers, more than one million likes on Facebook and nearly 2.3 million followers on Pinterest.

In 2010 Inc. named it America’s Fastest-Growing Retailer. Two years later the company reaped more than $100 million in sales.

Its recent move to a mobile-first mindset is paying off, too—more than 50 percent of its traffic now comes from smartphones. Not bad for a site that started out in 2002 as the hobby of couple Susan Gregg and Eric Koger (now married) in a freshman dorm at Carnegie Mellon University.

Rosemary Lee, footwear buyer for the San Francisco-based e-tailer, says it all comes down to ModCloth’s community-centric focus. “We’re a company that’s led by our customers,” she says.

“We not only take into consideration what sold but also our reviews. If there’s a problem, we’ll work with our vendors to improve it or we won’t re-order it.” It’s just one of many ways the company caters to its customers’

discerning tastes. For example, Be the Buyer (a virtual buying program) and Make the Cut (a crowdsourced design contest) allow users to vote samples into production, while a style gallery where shoppers can post photos of their getups has turned the site into a social network.

“My buying philosophy is that the customer always comes first, which is right in line with our company,” says Lee, who came to ModCloth in 2010 as an apparel buyer and transitioned into merchandise planning before moving into shoes. Bestselling brands include Jeffrey Campbell, Irregular Choice and Miss L Fire.

In keeping with the site’s muchlauded aesthetic, whimsical cat, owl and polka dot prints are prevalent, with prices ranging from $20 flip-flops to $440 for Minna Parikka leather loafers with bunny ears. “Our footwear assortment is feminine, colorful, fun, versatile and accessible, which pairs well with our overall brand messaging,” Lee says. —L.M. What are ModCloth’s key trends for fall? Pointy toes, single soles, houndstooth and plaid.

What about boots, specifically?

Boots are always important. It’s a staple. Last year we did really well with combat, riding and moto boots, and we’ll bring those back again this fall.

What are key colors for the season? Navy, berries, greens and cognac.

Any trend you are sick of seeing?

We try to give all key trends a shot, and one that we tried in so many ways was the wedge sneaker. It just didn’t stick and our customers never responded to it.

44 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

FW_04_14_ebeat_01.indd 44

4/8/14 6:36 PM

Watch our community work.

Or better yet, get involved!

Over 6,000 employees from 100 footwear companies are working with 83 non-profits to make a difference where it’s needed the very most.

To get involved, see a list of participating companies or pictures from #FootwearCares go to www.twoten.org/footwearcares.

Thanks to our sponsors:

FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 27

4/9/14 12:54 PM

continued from page 10 Sportie LA has jumped on the Teva renaissance, bringing in a broad of Birkenstock sandals and New Balance sneakers didn’t stop him from selection of men’s and women’s styles this spring. Fadlon says the store also changing the world. hosted an in-store event that led up to the Coachella music festival this For a trend intended to be effortless and not about designer labels, month. Part of Teva’s allure, Fadlon believes, is the shoe’s connection to ModCloth’s Brown says there is a large amount of time and money being childhood memories. “The shoes are tied to summer vacations, travel, family poured into achieving the Normcore aesthetic. She recently took the topic to hikes… everyone from the late ’80 and early ’90s has a Teva story,” he says. its blog, asking readers, “Are you #Normcore or are you out?” Twenty percent The same could be said for the resurgence in popularity of all-white court love the trend and the rest hate it, she reports. One commenter wrote: “Why sneakers—first popularized by Normcore inspirations, Steve Jobs and Jerry not just roll out of bed in your pajamas and call it a day… I’m loving the irony, Seinfeld. Michael Kors has gotten into the tennis trend with a basic white though. Make a statement by not making one. I bet they paid a pretty penny lace-up that made the pages of Vogue’s April issue—not once, but three for those track pants.” times. Adidas has also re-launched its legendary Stan Smith court shoe this Despite the decidedly anti-Normcore sentiment among ModCloth’s blog spring and K•Swiss is redirecting its focus onto heritage court styles. Waters followers Brown believes “intentional dressing down” is something to be on reports that retailers reacted strongly when they the lookout for, especially with Adidas churning out saw K•Swiss’ revamped range of clean white kicks. hoodies with sophisticated floral prints and fashion “They see a need for casual sophisticated footwear,” labels like Chanel introducing casual sneakers. Even he says, noting the pendulum in athletic footwear ModCloth is selling classic white Keds sneakers is swinging from neon to white. “The running shoe and Birkenstock sandals alongside its selection of market has been bright and overly technical, but kitsch T-straps and loafers. “Birkenstock is getting a that reached its peak once moms started wearing second wind,” Brown affirms. the look.”

In Kitson’s California locations, black-and-white Fadlon agrees that there’s a mega-fashion shift patent Birkenstocks share coveted shelf space with in sneakers underway. “It’s as if someone pressed studded sandals by designer Rebecca Minkoff and a reset button,” he says. “Sneakers are becoming Puma X Solange sneakers. “It boils down to how increasingly minimalistic in color and flair.” But it’s you market and complete the look,” says Founder nothing to fret about as he believes it helps bring Fraser Ross, noting that he intends to reorder the people who never considered wearing sneakers to hot-ticket items. “People are dressing differently in cross that line. “It’s becoming more acceptable to general,” he observes, adding that casual footwear wear sneakers to a wider breadth of functions and is needed to complement the leggings from the occasions,” Fadlon adds. likes of Lululemon his customers live in. “That’s just the tip of the iceberg. You can actually look a —Danny Wasserman, More Normcore or No More? little outdated in high heels these days,” he quips. owner, Tip Top Shoes Does the Normcore movement have legs? Can basics To wit: Style icons Mary-Kate and Ashley even get more basic? Kahan believes Millennials’ Olsen were recently snapped wearing Birkenstock“throwback sensibilities” will ultimately be what inspired sandals by Givenchy with white socks, edges this trend beyond being a blip. “It’s a little different than some trends sending fashion bloggers into a tizzy. Birkenstock will go a step further by that become flavor of the months because this generation holds onto trusted introducing Socks and ’Stocks combo packs this fall. Socks might make brands,” he says. quite the anti-fashion statement, but Ross believes the best way to pull off Helping matters in this regard is the fact that risk-taking, from both design this comfort sandal look is with a good pedicure. “It helps make the shoe and merchandising perspectives, continues to be scarce as the weak economy look sexy,” he says, joking that Birkenstock should package its sandals with forces the industry to hedge its bets. It’s simply too costly to introduce matching nail polish. Ross adds that this year’s cold winter has fueled added something new. Hence, the popularity of heritage brands. interest in Birkenstock—or any sandal brand, for that matter. “Half the However, some say Millennials are a fickle bunch. “This generation has a country is already wearing them and then the other half has been anxiously short attention span and is always seeking newness,” Smith of Editd states. waiting for that day to come,” he says.

In fact, she warns that it’s dangerous for retailers to hold completely back on Danny Wasserman, owner of New York-based Tip Top Shoes, has planned introducing new concepts. “Newness is still what brings people into the store,” his spring assortment with the Normcore movement in mind. “When there she says, adding that both retailers and brands run the risk of alienating isn’t one hot item in the market that people know they should buy, they their customer bases if they keep going back to the archives each season. revert to what they remember,” he offers. In the case of Tip Top Shoes, that “Normcore is best in small amounts,” she offers. means Birkenstock, Sanuk and Teva are go-to brands this spring. They don’t Along those lines, Waters says K•Swiss plans to pepper in new, yet simple necessarily have the most fashionable reputation, but Wasserman says they styles amid its heritage offerings. “We’re not trying to be a museum by offering are familiar to customers. And unlike most fashion trends that only tap into only throwback styles,” he says. Similarly, Kahan says Birkenstock will update women’s, Wasserman says there’s a lot of interest from men (particularly its core roster of sandals based on materials and colors (like rose gold this fall) Birkenstock). “It used to be only women or hippies,” he says. “Now stylish men that are trending in fashion in addition to introducing fresh styles. are coming in for the sandals and closed-toe styles. Birkenstock has become By definition, Normcore may never completely disappear. The trend, a year-round item.” after all, is made up of basics. And there’s a reason why these styles have The renewed interest in Teva’s iconic Original sport sandal began a stood the test of time, because they are grounded in comfort and millions few seasons prior when product similar to the ankle strap design started of consumers—young and old—loved them. But the fact that some of these popping up on runways. Jason Bertoli, product line manager for the brands have been given a second wind doesn’t prevent the need for filling in Originals division, notes it coincided nicely with this year’s 30th anniversary around their core styles to remain relevant going forward. No doubt feedback of that silhouette, which the brand marked with a sold-out collaboration from new retail partners will provide support and feedback. Sportie LA, for with Normcore-mecca Urban Outfitters. Bertoli reports that it is helping example, is adding Birkenstock’s suede Arizona sandals and closed toe styles open new doors. “We can really open our distribution because we’re not for the first time this spring. “A store like us provides a new channel—and a focused on one type of customer,” he says. “It’s really a reflection of culture as new set of eyes on their product,” Fadlon says. • a whole because we haven’t changed what we’re doing or what we stand for.”

“When there isn’t one hot item in the market that people know they should buy, they revert to what they remember.”

46 footwearplusmagazine.com • april/may 2014

fw_04_14_specialreport_01.indd 46

4/9/14 4:43 PM

O&A

S WO R N OW T H E W E ST I ND REPORT • H EUROPEAN TRE F N O R M CO R E • THE MEANING O

• $10 • APRIL/MAY 2014 VOL. 24 • ISSUE 4

continued from page 17 space. But we felt we are really one of the original work boots, hence the name. In 1879, the blue collar man was often wearing cowboy boots.

Again, our authenticity was a huge factor in our gaining a presence in this market. And we’ve come a long way since then. It probably will become our second largest business in time (it represents about 30 percent of current overall sales) as work boots are a $1 billion category annually. I don’t think all of western retailing amounts to that much, and I’m including buckles, hats, jeans and shirts in that figure.

The opportunities in work are limitless when you consider it from a global perspective. And we’re not as dependent on western fashion, whereas the work category is always a necessity. There’s huge upside going forward. We’re struggling to keep up with the growth, but we’ll make it happen.

NEW

S FR ON TITHEER MAINS TREAM WESTE RN CROSS ES INTO

4/10/14 6:03 PM

What impact is the western market’s increasing crossover appeal into mainstream fashion having on your business?

Western has really become a lifestyle and is more about classic looks than just a trend for a season. In general, people are seeking authentic items that work for their lifestyle. They are pairing it often with a fashionable shirt and jeans. Same goes for work boots. We see a lot of college kids around Texas wearing 501 button up Levi’s and a pair of our work boots. They are attending TCU or SMU—they are not on any job site.

What are the biggest challenges facing Justin Brands right now?

Meeting the increasing demand for our products and staying relevant to the consumer. That goes back to this digital disruption and being able to keep step with the rapidly changing needs of the market and consumers. It requires good customer service, quality products and communicating directly with consumers. And while you gain efficiencies with these new technologies, they bring new sets of challenges. The ability to be quicker to market, quicker to address trends, replenishment capabilities, EDI, B2B websites, numerous consumer websites, etc.—they all involve new skillsets and finding those people to do the job. I can assure you, the only thing that’s constant around here is change.

What do you love most about your job?

It’s humbling and exciting all at the same time. I get to deal with iconic brands that are known around the world and work alongside a lot of really smart people. My job, primarily, is to remove obstacles and get their plans implemented. It’s cliché, but it’s a global economy now and that makes it all the more challenging. For example, we are drop-shipping individual pairs all over the world to online customers rather than shipping truckloads of orders to Cavender’s, for example.

That’s much more difficult to do. But that relates back to the opportunities digital disruption can offer: We would have never gotten that sale from the guy in Norway shopping a Cavender’s catalog. There’s not a slow day around here. But, if I ever need to, I can call Warren Buffet for a little advice.

Any other advantages to being a Berkshire Hathaway-owned company?

Probably just that: Whether I call or not, knowing that I can pick up the phone and talk to one of the smartest people in the galaxy is pretty comforting. The other benefit is we’ve got a pretty good bank in Warren Buffet if we need added capital to make an acquisition. We are looking every day. Obviously, a strategic buy in the western market makes sense but, hey, I’m all ears. •

d 38

fw_04_14_cover_02.ind

Enjoyed This Issue of

Footwear Plus?

Stay engaged and informed of the most relevant and insightful market news and latest fashion trends by subscribing to the premiere industry fashion magazine: Footwear Plus.

H A quick visit to www.footwearplus-subscribe.com ensures that you will receive a free subscription to our award-winning publication. Be sure to include your email address and phone number so we can easily contact you for timely, uninterrupted renewal service.

H Feel free to contact us anytime at circulation@9threads.com or (440) 871-1300 with your questions.

2014 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 47

FW_04_14_QA_01.indd 47

4/10/14 6:29 PM

LAST WORD

what a kick

Perfect Match

The bond between soccer fans and footwear is expected to heat up this summer during the 2014 FIFA World Cup in Brazil. By Angela Velasquez

iShoes

Tyrek

Amazonas

Puma

JUST HOW POPULAR is the World Cup? Try this comparison on for size: combine the Super Bowl, the Stanley Cup Finals, the NBA Finals, and for good measure, a seventh game of the World Series and you are only starting to approach the level of interest and excitement the month-long soccer, or fútbol, competition (June 12-July 13) generates once every four years around the world.

Michael Okebiyi, president of lifestyle sneaker brand Tyrek, believes there is no sporting event that can compete with the epic fervor of the World Cup. This summer is expected to be no exception when 32 teams and their legions of fans descend upon Brazil to determine which country will reign supreme. Okebiyi says a soccercrazed world presents a golden opportunity to market Tyrek’s line of World Cupinspired casual footwear. Each of the 32 leather lace-ups sport the country’s name, colors and a “Brazil 2014” embroidery on the toe. Styles retail for $150, except for the nine previous World Cup winners, which are given the Midas touch with 24K goldtipped laces ($175 retail). “It’s a cultural event that lasts an entire month meaning that for a whole summer people are fixated on their country and that makes World Cup merchandise a sustainable sale,” Okebiyi adds.

Also getting into the game is iShoes, a new Portuguese brand introducing customizable men’s and women’s sneakers decked out in team colors. Wearers (and fickle fans) can swap out interchangeable Velcro strips featuring team flags and then add plaid, polka dot and metallic strips when the tournament is over. Not to be outdone, Puma is revisiting its archives by releasing 1968’s Roma Basic in Italian colors and the Basic Classic Canvas in red, white and blue for U.S. fans. The brand also pays homage

to the host country with three classic silhouettes in Brazil’s green and yellow color scheme.

FIFA has even pegged eco-friendly Brazilian brand Amazonas as the official flip-flops of the World Cup. The game-tobeach collection includes eight men’s and women’s styles to be sold exclusively at match venues, as well as a range of 17 flaginspired flip-flop styles made of recyclable rubber available for international distribution. Frederico Pucci, export manager, predicts top-selling styles will be Brazil followed by Argentina. “Everyone will be Brazilian this summer,” he says, noting that the country’s storied history in the sport makes it a popular choice even in rival countries.

Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst of The NPD Group, agrees Brazil colorthemed styles will be scoring at retail. “The buzz surrounding this World Cup is going to be magnified because it’s being hosted by a passionate soccer country,” he offers.

Helping matters stateside, he adds, is the growing popularity of soccer at the youth level coupled with an influx of immigrants from soccer-mad countries. In fact, Cohen predicts this World Cup may be the biggest moneymaker for retailers yet. “Over the years the World Cup has had regional reach in the States, but marketing is getting more savvy and reaching a wider sector of Hispanic and European communities,” he says.

Soccer fans or not, the themed shoes are a unique way for consumers to celebrate their respective nationalities—a desire that can stretch way beyond the World Cup tournament. “Whether they are from South or Central America, Asia or Europe, wearing their country’s colors is a chance for them to connect to their home,” Okebiyi offers.

48

FW_04_14_Last_Word_01.indd 48

4/8/14 6:07 PM

Fashion Inspires Us Value Drives Us

rialto FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 23

4/9/14 12:02 PM

FOP_Apr/May2014.indd 2

4/9/14 12:41 PM