Footwear Plus | September 2016

E U R O T R E N D R E P O R T: A N Y T H I N G G O E S

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B I R K E N STO C K J U ST SAYS N O —TO A M A ZO N

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D E S I G N I N G I N T H E AG E O F D I S R U PT I O N

S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6 VO L 2 6 • I S S U E 8 • $10

GARDEN PARTY A Bouquet of Tropical Prints and Lush Colors in Bloom for Spring

S E PT E M BE R

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Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Ann Loynd Senior Editor Lauren Olsen Associate Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Melodie Jeng Contributing Photographer Judy Leand Contributing Editor ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager

D E P A R T M E N T S

PA G E

30 F E A T U R E S 10 The Age of Disruption

20 Euro Trend Report:

Amid turbulent and unpredictable times, designers pull inspiration from near and

Anything Goes Luxe sneakers, gender reversals, ’90s-

far for Spring ’17. By Ann Loynd

era reboots and plenty more Spring ’17 trends spotted at the GDS show in Düsseldorf, Germany. By Ann Loynd

14 Taking Stock David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, on the brand-wide plan to do the right thing—even if it means pulling the cork on the world’s fastest

30 Lush Rich colors, tropical patterns and global design details make for a vibrant

growing retailer. By Greg Dutter

and textured story for spring.

By Ann Loynd

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Editor’s Note This Just In Scene & Heard What’s Selling Trend Spotting Shoe Salon E-beat Comfort Last Shot

On the cover: Clarks tropical-print sandals, Michelle Helene dress, Zynni Cashmere robe, hat by Little Doe. This page: psychedelic-print sandal by Papillio. Photograph by Joseph Pluchino.

Photographer: Trevett McCandliss; Fashion Editor: Ann Loynd; stylist: James M. Rosenthal; hair and makeup: Matthew Sky/ Next Artists; model: Amanda L./Muse Management.

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

Allison Kastner Operations Manager Bruce Sprague Circulation Director Mike Hoff Digital Director OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 135 W. 20th St., Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer Debbie Grim Controller

WO M E N S H A P E T H E WO R L D WE SHAPE THEIR SHOES

Introducing the next evolution of

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E D I TO R ’S N OT E Big News

THE AMAZON AGE IT IS THE ultimate elephant in the room. Not a single industry-related conversation of late goes by without its name coming up at some point. In many instances, it’s the impetus for the conversation. It is referred to in awe, anger, disbelief, helplessness… responses run the gamut of emotions. Amazon is its name: a massive, tsunami-like force that has seeped into every aspect of retail and just about every consumer’s shopping psyche. It’s the game-changer of game changers. It has rapidly re-written the rules of retail and has brought heavyweights like Macy’s and Walmart to their knees. There’s no longer a question about whether it can be stopped, and it’s a fool’s errand to try and out-Amazon Amazon.

Consider these stats: Amazon’s parcel value was an estimated 1 billion packages in 2015. That’s what FedEx delivered three years ago. It has 125 distribution centers worldwide and is expanding and building more as fast as Amazonian-ly possible. More than 230,000 full- and part-time employees—not to mention a rapidly growing fleet of robots—are helping to make sure deliver-

ies for nearly every consumer product category under the sun reach their final destinations. At the end of last year, the company reported more than 304 million active customers worldwide. Those customers span the demographic scale, young to old, wealthy to bare bones budget. Its second quarter profit this year was a cool $857 million on a staggering $30 billion in revenue. (That’s about what Nike does in a year.) It expects to be America’s top clothing retailer as early as next year. And, in case anyone in our industry needs reminding, it owns Zappos.

A wholesale exec based in the Seattle area recently recalled the great retailer showing off its might with a low flyover by one of its 40 new Amazon Prime delivery jets during a local festival. No old-school blimp or low-budget crop plane dragged a banner for Amazon. I would have been really impressed if that plane had unleashed a fleet of drones from its cargo hold to make hundreds of same-day, door-todoor deliveries. That will come in time, according to numerous drone-related media reports.

Love, fear, hate Amazon…I often hear all those emotions in the same conversation. Everybody loves a good deal and fast delivery. What consumers love even more is being able to shop whenever, wherever and for whatever. Amazon, in this regard, has taken a lot of the aggravation out of traditional shopping.

The time spent getting to and from a store followed by the hit-or-miss nature of that visit—and, worse, the lack of service—is something consumers don’t miss. Perhaps the meteoric rise of Amazon has as much to with what it is doing right as what traditional retailers have been doing wrong. Do consumers regard malls, for example, as ancient tombs as foot traffic s tatis tics seem to

indicate? Too much sameness and not enough freshness is a bad retail recipe. Take the joy of discovery, curation, ambiance, entertainment, service and knowledge out of the equation and what are you left with? It’s evident that consumers don’t need—or want—to physically shop for basics in the age of Amazon. Therefore, it’s imperative to offer unique and meaningful reasons to visit a store.

All things considered, the success of Amazon Marketplace is understandable. And if you can’t beat Amazon’s awareness, reach and platform (who can?), why not piggyback on them? But this is where fear comes into question. What if, say, these third-party retailers are just training their customers to shop on Amazon and not their own sites? And what if, down the road, Amazon decides to do away with this platform, decreeing instead that wholesale brands can only sell direct through its site? Would those customers go back to individual retailers to shop or just buy direct from Amazon? Would they stay in business without Marketplace sales revenue? Would wholesale brands like the mammoth retailer’s potential new terms in a market further cornered? It’s already gotten to the point where many brands are doing so much business through Amazon—direct and Marketplace—that it has become too big to say no to. (One exec confided that the behemoth accounts for upwards of 25 percent of total sales for many leading brands.)

That’s what makes the recent decision

by Birkenstock to cease doing business through Amazon all the more compelling. In this month’s Q&A (p. 14), Birkenstock Americas CEO David Kahan discusses why cutting ties with the juggernaut (including authorized retailers selling through Amazon Marketplace) is best for the brand long-term. Kahan says it’s not personal, as other major retailers have been cut off as well. Risky, right or wrong, his convictions are admirable. Rather than be swept up in the surging Amazon wave, he has made a stand. Time will tell whether it was the right decision. Then again, for a 242-year-old brand, time is relative. The Amazon Age is still in its infancy by comparison, and who knows what tomorrow may bring?

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

www.gabor.de

Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

Tel: (800) 361-3466 - info@kannercorp.net

THIS JUST IN

SUMMER IN THE CITY What’s black, white and nude all over? Ladies of Manhattan in strappy sandals and neutral looks that brave the heat.

Photography by Joseph Pluchino 6 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

SCENE & HEARD

Walking Company CEO Plans Comfort Superstores FORMAT SYNERGIES, IMPROVED backroom efficiencies and economy of scale weren’t the only reasons Andrew Feshbach, CEO of The Walking Company, acquired FootSmart. He has a brick-and-mortar vision for the primarily catalogbased business: FootSmart Andrew Feshbach comfort superstores. Think LensCrafters, but for feet, he says.

“FootSmart is going to be the totality of health, comfort and wellness for footcare,” Feshbach predicts. His plan is to open the first such locations in 2017. “It’ ll offer the total selection— shoes, insoles, bunion pads, compression socks, etc. And, like at LensCrafters, where customers can also get eye examinations and prescriptions, maybe we’ll have a podiatrist on site as well. It’s an interesting opportunity, and I’m really excited to rebuild FootSmart.”

Feshbach promises that FootSmart, acquired from Benchmark Brands last month, will be nothing like the 200-plus Walking Company stores, aside from some brand overlap. Walking Company stores offer a gourmet approach to comfort footwear retailing with upscale mall locations, higher price-points and focus on style with comfort.

FootSmart, by contrast, will be a comfort footwear superstore, along the lines of what Whole Foods is to organic food (i.e. one-stop shopping).

FootSmart will also serve as an outlet for The Walking Company’s proprietary Abeo brand and its range of products, which spans shoes, insoles and orthotics. “We think we can create a sticky environment at FootSmart with these brands,” Feshbach says. “We intend to create a few FootSmart-owned brands as well.” FootSmart already has the comfort pedigree and name recognition. Founded in 1989, the business sells more than 3,000 comfort footwear, heel and pain-relieving products and is considered an authoritative resource.

Another perk of the acquisition, Feshbach notes, is gaining access to FootSmart’s “gargantuan” database to complement a similar-sized one The Walking Company owns. “With both databases, 8 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

we’re going to have a leg up in terms of talking to our customer and delivering products and services they will want to see from us,” he predicts.

One of Feshbach’s first steps was to take a page from Victoria Secret’s playbook and do away with its printed catalog. Instead, the focus is on upgrading FootSmart’s e-commerce site with plans to unveil it this spring. “It’ll have mobile compatibility and be a much more sophisticated platform for all your footcare needs,” he says.

Feshbach says FootSmart had to get in step with the times. “It was still operating primarily as a mail-order business, which is old fashioned,” he explains. “Rather than viewing the Internet as a way to grow its sales base, the company used it as a way to operate its mail-order business. The catalog was driving all of their decisions.” And while The Walking Company still distributes a printed catalog, those days may be numbered. “The catalog being the primary driver is over,” Feshbach says. “I want to focus on the Internet.”

Nevertheless, Feshbach remains a firm believer in brick-and-mortar retailing—when it comes to shopping for comfort footwear needs. “People aren’t going to malls as much, but if they want 3-D fitting or need a custom arch support, they can’t do that online,” he says. “That’s the stickiness to our stores. It works, and we think it can be applied to FootSmart superstores as well as sending FootSmart online customers to Walking Company stores.” Feshbach’s goal is to upgrade FootSmart customers into Walking Company ones whenever possible but not vice versa. “There are millions of FootSmart customers who have never gone into one of our Walking Company stores to get serviced,” he says. “Best case, we trade them up. Worst case, they become better FootSmart customers.”

Either way, Feshbach believes comfort footwear stores will gain importance in the years ahead.

“Evolution has not caught up with our life expectancy,” he says, noting the ability to be mobile is a key to staying healthy for older adults. “Those aches and pains we experience as we age…comfort footcare can help alleviate them and keep us moving. We’re transitioning a sale from a ‘want’ to a ‘need,’ and that’s really valuable.”

Bam! JSSI Cooking with Emeril Lagasse JACK SCHWARTZ SHOES, Inc. (JSSI) has entered into a partnership with celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse to produce a line of slip- and stain-resistant footwear for professionals in the restaurant industry.

Lagasse, the founder of 12 restaurants and star of Emeril Live and Top Chef, brings his years of experience and understanding of specific demands of culinary professionals. The collection will be available through an exclusive partnership with Shoe Carnival stores.

“I know how difficult it is to find a comfortable shoe that can handle the wear-and-tear of being on your feet all day,” Lagasse states. “I want to create a reasonably priced, better looking and higher quality line of shoes.”

Design highlights include antimicrobial and water-repellant uppers, Memory Foam insoles and an Emeril-inspired slip-resistant outsoles offering reliable traction on any surface. “The restaurant shoe industry has long been known for its limited offerings and unimaginative design,” states David Schwartz, president of JSSI. “We’ve worked closely with Emeril to create a range of shoes that offer comfort, durability and style.”

Rockport Keeps Everyone Moving ROCKPORT’S NEW GLOBAL brand repositioning campaign (“Made for Movers”) is designed to highlight its rich heritage in comfort shoemaking for everyday people on the go. “This is a new era for the brand, under new management and ownership, and we’re renewing our commitment to innovation and craftsmanship,” says Sue Dooley, SVP global marketing, adding that the campaign launches alongside the delivery of its Fall ’16 line.

The new look will be visible in company-owned stores as well as in its in-store display programs, showrooms, trade shows booths and soon-to-be new corporate headquarters in Newton, MA. The idea, according to Dooley, is to make the brand more inclusive while giving customers a glimpse into the handcrafted art of shoemaking. “Our brand covers a lot of ground; it’s worn by men and women,

Leslie Gallin

Show Business UBM FASHION GROUP has announced that it will bring an edition of FN Platform to New York beginning in February 2017. The organizers will continue to also hold shows in Las Vegas concurrent with the Magic show during February and August. The new show will run bi-annually in conjunction with Coterie NYC at the the Javits Convention Center. The

young and old, across 63 countries worldwide,” she adds. “This campaign gives us the opportunity to talk to these movers as a whole.”

To get the campaign moving (literally), Rockport challenged participating Fitbit Flex–wearing attendees of FN Platform last month to total 1 million steps during the show. Mission accomplished and—better still—the company donated $10,000 to the Two Ten Footwear Foundation to mark the accomplishment.

“Rockport’s Made for Movers campaign is extraordinary and very timely,” says Neal Newman, Two Ten president, noting that the funds will provide emergency support to industry colleagues struggling to recover from floods in Louisiana and wildfires in California. “We will use Rockport’s generous donation for those who are picking up the pieces and moving forward with their lives.”

Sole Commerce footwear show will be repositioned as a boutique show within Coterie.

“With the recent acquisition of the Business Journal shows, it made us recognize the fact that they were a juried event, and there were many footwear brands that weren’t accepted,” explains Leslie Gallin, Group President of Footwear, UBM Fashion. “Now, we’re able to bring the [FN Platform] brand to New York and put the event smack on the floor with the [former] Business Journal shows.”

According to Gallin, February is a good time for the inaugural show, and UBM can adjust from there, if need be. Gallin adds that it is advantageous for retailers to have all of the shows under one roof and for them to get extra face-time with brands they may have met with in Las Vegas a few weeks prior to tweak and modify orders. The goal for the New York edition, she adds, is to make it a “robust footwear market to attract footwear-only retailers.

And the value-add to exhibitors is the [clothing] retailers looking to add footwear.” Gallin notes that another plus is the ability for European brands to put a toe in the U.S. marketplace before working their way up to the Las Vegas edition of FN Platform.

Ron Fromm, President and CEO of FFANY, doesn’t see the addition as duplication of its shows, one of which is held in early February annually. “FFANY is unique in that we’re a trade association, so it’s about our members and their showrooms,” he says.

To that end, Fromm believes that since FFANY is so entrenched with its members, it knows what timing is in everyone’s best interest for its shows. “We’ve been down this road before,” he says of potential shows overlap. “I’m sure everyone remembers when WSA was not thoughtful about its dates and created chaos in product placement, and we hope we’re not going down that path again,” he says.

Skechers Opens in World Trade Center WITH FOOT TRAFFIC totaling more than 350,000 consumers daily, Skechers has opened a flagship in the heart of the World Trade Center—the newest and hottest shopping district in Manhattan.

“The new shopping district at One World Trade Center is the place to be—gorgeous, massive and spectacular, it’s one of the biggest retail openings in the United States this decade,” states Michael Greenberg, president of Skechers. “The center’s new stores read like a Who’s Who list of iconic brands, and we’re thrilled to take part in that this huge retail phenomenon,” he adds.

Store highlights include LEDlit shelves, fixtures and displays, a Performance section and a Kids’ Fun Zone. The opening marks the company’s first location in lower Manhattan and fifth overall. “We continue to grow our retail footprint on every level in high-traffic cities around the world,” Greenberg states. “By year end, we anticipate having more than 1,600 Skechers stores.”

2016 september • footwearplusmagazine.com 9

SPECIAL REPORT

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Hot Spots (clockwise from left): David Hart, Oysby, James Carletons.

The Age of Disruption Amid turbulent and unpredictable times, designers pull inspiration from near and far for Spring ’17. By Ann Loynd

W Minimalist Movement (clockwise from top left): Bernie Mev, Drome, Hogl.

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hen asked what the next big movement in fashion will be, designers and retail experts seemed to agree on one thing: disruption. A shaky economy, a wildly unpredictable election cycle, terrorist attacks and tectonic shifts in retail are just a few of the factors wreaking havoc on day-to-day life. The new black is disruption. Designers have been left with the daunting challenge of trying to create collections that cut through the chaos and attract the attention—and discretionary dollars—of consumers. Retailers are faced with equally difficult challenges, hedging their bets and buying right to find a way to lure consumers out of their safe spaces and spend a day shopping. Sure, people aren’t about to go barefoot anytime soon, but you must forgive them if they are not as tuned into whether fringe is trending when the lunatic fringe may capture the White House.

“There’s such a mix of things happening on all levels, high and low. The idea of fashion week and when people are shopping is changing,” says apparel, handbag and shoe designer Christian Siriano. He adds that for Spring/Summer ’17, his collection errs toward the transitional because, “It’s a new world out there.”

Jessica Massey, associate buyer for boutique chain and e-commerce site Otte, agrees that shedding old conventions is the only way to survive amid these disruptive times. “Customers are looking for ‘buy-now-wear-now’ pieces more than ever,” she says. “For 2017, brands are really listening to the consumer’s request and offering more pieces that can be worn at the time when they’re delivered, rather than buying for the following season months in advance.”

One of the results of this shopping shift is that consumers have more power to influence trends than ever before, especially with an individualityobsessed generation leading the charge. “Millennials are like, ‘I don’t give a ----, I’m going to wear my Docs with this dress,” quips Meghan Cleary, shoe expert and founder of meghansays.com.

Even up against these challenges, however, designers believe a few key themes will connect with consumers next spring. And these trends have one reassuring trait in common: a belief that brighter days lie ahead. “Fashion is a reflection of society. Now we are living in a very difficult moment, and all we can do is be optimistic and positive,” says Marianna Rosati, designer for Drome. “Fashion should do so and communicate so!”

1. HOT SPOTS Color inspiration for next season stems from steamy climates influenced, in part, by the recent expansion of American travel to Cuba. “There’s a lot more of that sort of sunny climate look, with textural materials and colorful detailing,” notes Cleary. She predicts Africa will be another hotspot, citing the rising influence of African and African-American designers including Theresa Ebagua (designer for label Chelsea Paris) and Eleanor Anukam.

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SPECIAL REPORT

Dolapo Otunia, founder and designer of women’s dress brand Oysby, dubs this theme, Modern Ethnicity. “Prints were consistently seen on the [European] runways with designers like Chanel and Christopher Kane taking a more South American carnival-type approach on print designs and colors,” she explains, adding that for her Spring ’17 collection, this consists of non-typical animal prints, woven topstitches, fringes and asymmetrical whipstitches. No doubt the recent Rio Olympics had a strong influence here as well.

Jaime Barr, senior editor footwear for the forecasting service WGSN, is zoning in on one Caribbean local in particular: Cuba. She forecasts an array of tropical influences and raw materials like jute, canvas and cork. “It’s a cool, casual blend of culture and glamour,” she notes. Nicolas Huneault, vice president of design at Titan Industries, is in stride with that inspiration for the company’s brand portfolio, which includes Badgley Mischka, Splendid, Daya by Zendaya and Charles Jourdan. “We are very much into a more relaxed, laid-back type of glamour,” he says. “Everything has to be effortless.” For Spring ’17, Huneault was grabbed by botanical prints and ’60s Hollywood glamour, creating block heels, peep toes and slingbacks in such bold colors as flamingo pink, dark jade, Mayan gold and poppy red.

Men’s footwear and apparel designer David Hart is also drinking the retroglamour Kool-Aid. “The collection is inspired by the surf culture of Southern California during the ’60s and ’70s,” he says, adding, “I was inspired by the photographs of LeRoy Grannis and the music of Dick Dale and Link Wray.” Tropical and surf prints highlight his menswear collection, which includes a palm-print sport coat. (A bold statement, indeed.)

Overall, designers are curating a world traveler look—and the sunnier, the better. “The idea is that our girl is traveled in these different resort locations,” Siriano explains. “We’re calling it ‘Holiday in Capri.’” Visiting different Italian seaports, the designer was inspired by locally made tapestries. Similarly, Elona Appleby, footwear designer for James Carletons, picked leathers based on her travels. “We went to Turkey and took photos of the spices,” she says. “You can take inspiration from anywhere,” agrees Cleary. “There are no borders anymore.”

3 The Brooklyn Effect (clockwise from top left): Ferri, Howsty, Ciao Mao.

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Retro Athletic (clockwise from top): Hogl, Daniel Patrick, Inuikii.

2. MINIMALIST MOVEMENT In the science of fashion, every trend has an opposite extreme. On the other end of loud tropics is a movement for demure minimalism. Siriano describes his less-is-more take like a day on the beach: “You see beautiful neutrals, skin and naturalness, and then you see really saturated tones on people’s bathing suits and umbrellas, or on candy and ice cream,” he explains. “This collection has a lot of beautiful, romantic neutrals and we play off of that with some really saturated colors.”

Otunia notes a similar minimalist theme taking hold for next season. “We love how Alicia Keys’ style has evolved and, particularly, how her #nomakeup movement proves now more than ever that less is more, and it’s okay to keep things natural, baring it all,” the Oysby designer says, adding, “She has been a significant inspiration for this collection, hence the use of seemingly basic stitch techniques that produce interesting designs once executed.”

For Drome’s inaugural footwear collection, Rosati kept the color palette “natural and clean,” in line with her clothing line, putting emphasis on silhouettes instead. Blush is a key color, garnering a reputation as an alternative neutral.

Typically known for its bright colors and busy patterns, Bernie Mev is taking the softer, tamer route for next spring as well. “Fashion lately has been so complex and fringy and mixy-matchy,” explains founder and designer Rachel Carmi as to why she’s “keeping it a bit cleaner” next season. “A lot of women wake up in the morning and don’t know what to do anymore,” she adds. The line leans heavily on a palette of blush, soft gray and pure white.

Massey also cites blush and navy as key colors in no-nonsense silhouettes for Otte next spring. As for what qualifies as a no-nonsense silhouette? “We noticed that the slide/mule trend is stronger than ever,” she says. “Just about every brand found a way to incorporate them into their selection this season.” Massey says part of the the mule’s appeal is its ability to easily pair with any outfit.

3. THE BROOKLYN EFFECT With the fall of the mall and the rise of downtown shopping centers comes a focus on a curated, hand-made aesthetic. One hip and inspirational borough in particular is >47

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TAKING STOCK

David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, on the brand-wide plan to do the right thing—even if it means p u l l i n g t h e c o r k o n t h e w o r l d ’s f a s t e s t g r o w i n g r e t a i l e r.

AVID KAHAN WASN’T looking to pick a fight when the company recently notified Amazon that, as of Jan. 1, 2017, it would no longer be an authorized Birkenstock dealer. Nor was he seeking the media attention that quickly ensued, when CNBC and a host of other outlets picked up the policy letter the company sent notifying its retailers of the decision (which also bans third-party sales through Amazon Marketplace). To Kahan, the news-making decision had been a couple of years in the making—one that followed repeated overtures by Birkenstock to come to terms with its issues in order to maintain the relationship with the online behemoth. The decision, Kahan adds, is not strictly related to how Amazon conducts business, nor is Birkenstock seeking to spark a broader brand exodus. Rather, Kahan says the decision to go dark on Amazon is part of Birkenstock’s master plan to do what management believes is right by the brand wherever and whenever consumers come into contact with it and regardless of what the short-term sales implications might be.

“This isn’t a David vs. Goliath thing,” Kahan assures. “It’s just one brand trying to do what’s right for their consumers.”

A big part of doing what’s right, Kahan explains, is making sure that when a customer goes onto a reputable website to buy Birkenstock products that it won’t result in receiving counterfeit goods. For too long and increasingly often, that has been the case with customers purchasing through Amazon.

“We started to notice over the last few months an inordinate number of customer complaints and, every single time, it was someone who bought something on Amazon,” Kahan states. “We did a handful of our own purchases and found, in some cases, the shoes arrived in plastic bags 14 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

wrapped in rubber bands. They smelled fake, they looked fake and they were fake.” What’s worse is that the fake Birks could have been made by child or slave labor or made of toxic materials—or it could be a trifecta of bad scenarios, Kahan adds.

The collateral brand damage was potentially much more expensive than just making good with disgruntled Amazon customers. [For the record, in nearly every instance, Kahan reports the company did just that. “Because we genuinely care about these consumers, we took care of those who

O&A inadvertently purchased an inferior product,” he says, adding that going after the original seller is virtually impossible.] Besides, Kahan believes the customer is not really at fault here. It’s not like these shoppers logged onto some shady site or bought shoes on a random street corner. This is Amazon we’re talking about—one of the world’s largest retailers. “These are consumers who, by and large, trust the market,” Kahan says. “The assumption is that when they see a brand on Amazon—an established retailer—it is the real thing.”

That assumption, however, is not supported by Amazon’s business model, which is based on an open market system.

For all intents and purposes, it’s a buyerbeware exchange. “The business practices of Amazon as they exist today do not give somebody the certainty that they are buying from an authorized source of the branded What are you reading? product,” Kahan says, noting that lack of I just finished, Can’t Buy certainty was the deal-breaker. “The trust Me Like: How Authentic between us and our end user can never be Customer Connections compromised,” he adds. “That’s why we will Drive Superior Results. be encouraging consumers to buy Birkenstock It’s about how brands products only from authorized retailers—to can build and maintain help ensure that trust.” connections with their Kahan believes the decision is best for consumers in the age of Birkenstock. Or, to paraphrase a certain social media.

Godfather: “It’s not personal, it’s strictly business.” Indeed, he stresses that this decision What is inspiring you isn’t meant to be anti-Amazon or to single the right now? The team at retailer out. “I have no problem with what Birkenstock. People are Amazon has created, which is something that really living the brand, has changed consumer behavior,” he says. and the energy our team is “That’s never a bad thing. But as a brand that sharing is like being part has a relationship with its end user that goes of a true global revolution. beyond the transactional purchase, there’s I think it’s pretty rare. a friction point with a purely transactional marketplace.”

What is your current Amazon isn’t the first big-name retailer to state of mind? Super get cut by Birkenstock. When Kahan arrived positive, and that’s despite three years ago as CEO of Birkenstock USA the daily election rhetoric (he has since been promoted to oversee North based on fear and worry. I and South America regions), he lopped think it’s important every of its two largest dealers right out of the day to remember how gate—QVC and Birkenstock Central. (The fortunate I am, how I can latter was an online dealer that sold millions best serve others and not of pairs annually.) Not many brand execs get caught up in all that would willingly take such an immediate negativity, which can rub financial hit, but Kahan believed he had to off on you personally. send a message that the way the company had been doing business was over. “In order to prove ourselves to the retailers that were more consistent with our brand equity, we needed to clean up those accounts that were not consistent with that equity,” he says. “I didn’t think you could do both at the same time.” Kahan likens the approach to the Viking philosophy of landing ashore, burning the boats and either conquering the new territory or dying in the effort. “We burned our boats. This was all in or fail,” he says.

Birkenstock has done plenty of conquering of late. A combination of factors coalesced for its unprecedented run, including the Normcore and athleisure trends (both pair well with Birkenstocks), designers and fashionistas adopting its shoes as a sensible and stylish choice, aging baby boomers in need of

orthopedic-friendly footwear and Millennials who have a thing for quality heritage brands in an era of disposable fashion. Sales have been on a record pace and, unlike previous Birkenstock runs over the decades, show little sign of slowing down. “This year has been fantastic, not only in the U.S., but globally,” Kahan reports. “We are ahead of schedule, and sales have gained momentum as the summer has progressed.”

In fact, Kahan believes Birkenstock has moved beyond “having a moment” to a broader and longer term growth phase thanks, in part, to the athletic market (i.e. white shoe) management approach he has incorporated into a brown shoe brand. That athletic mindset includes limited editions, special introductions and distribution scarcity. Kahan, a former Reebok exec, attributes Nike and Ugg’s What is the smartest busisuccess (the latter led at the time by athletic ness decision you ever industry veteran Angel Martinez) to that made? Joining Birkenstock approach as well. He cites five Birkenstock [in 2013] and moving to silhouettes that are currently selling well as California. It wasn’t an easy proof that this is no fleeting, item-driven decision. The U.S. division fad. “Our retailers have come to understand had a challenging history that this goes way beyond ‘Birkenstock regarding leadership stabilis hot/how can we make the most of it ity, but I believed the global while we can,’” he says. “They understand leadership was committed the discipline that we have introduced to to change. The faith that managing the brand and that it’s a longthey placed in me was sigterm growth plan.” nificant. In exchange for To that end, Kahan believes Birkenstock is that faith, I went all in. My just getting started. What’s more, he believes, wife and I moved 3,000 if he does his job right, he’ll be one in a long miles and started fresh. It’s line of future brand stewards. “For me, the been totally life-changing. short-term and the long-term are the same,” he says. “I’m not thinking about the next If you could hire anybody... seven days, months or years. If I do my job Mindy Grossman [CEO of correctly by staying true to the values of the HSN]. What she has crebrand and, above all else, the expectations ated from day one is mind of our consumers, somebody will be sitting blowing. Her energy and in my chair 100 years from now.” corporate culture...I hold her

OFF THE CUFF

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

up as the example of how to be a leader.

How much business is Birkenstock giving up by cutting off Amazon?

We can quantify what we sold to Amazon What was your first directly, and it’s relatively insignificant to our paying job? I had two in total business. But what we can’t quantify— high school: a paper route and nobody can—is how many shoes are sold and selling shoes at Macy’s on Amazon by third parties—legitimately in the Staten Island Mall. and illegitimately. Between counterfeits, illegitimate sellers and legitimate sellers, there is no way to quantify it. Regardless, we decided that doing the right thing for the brand and the consumer was far more important than any short-term potential financial impact.

Have you heard anything from Amazon since making the decision?

We have not had any discussions directly with Amazon since we shared our policy with our retailers and them. But we have had many discussions with Amazon over the last year or so and we would like to continue talking with them to try and resolve our issues. This was not a surprise to them. We had told them that if there was no way that they would allow only authorized retailers

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O&A to sell on Amazon, then we would have to change our policy.

What type of reaction have you received from the industry overall?

It has been phenomenally supportive—more than I could have even imagined.

And that support includes retailers selling Birkenstock through Amazon Marketplace?

Absolutely.

Why do you think they are supportive, as they will be losing sales?

Because I think they believe that what we are doing long-term is right even if, near-term, it impacts them negatively. Maybe they are finally seeing a brand trying to do the right thing, which is becoming increasingly rare. I’m not claiming to be holier than thou, but it’s becoming harder and harder to find brands that you can admire. So whether somebody agrees with us or not on this particular decision, I believe they have to at least respect the fact that we are doing what we believe is right for our brand and ultimately for our consumers. I absolutely believe consumers want the assurance that they are buying Birkenstock from an authorized source. I also believe this is an important step for our brand— one that has been around for more than 240 years. For its long-term health, I cannot allow it to become purely transactional. And let me stress that this is not specifically an anti-Amazon stance; this is a pro-brand stand.

Birkenstock, in that sense, is bigger than Amazon.

I benchmark against the best brands in the industry. I can’t benchmark against mediocrity. If Nike, for example, felt that there was a big opportunity on Amazon, I would think they would have created some ways to sell their products and connect with consumers there. But Nike doesn’t sell on Amazon. Nor does

Chanel or Hermès. When I look to the best brands on the face of the earth, the transactional brands are on Amazon and the most elite brands are not.

Still, it’s must not have been an easy decision taking into account how many of your authorized retailers are selling through Amazon Marketplace.

It wasn’t easy, but it’s the right thing to do. I also believe that Marketplace sellers are training those customers to find that product on Amazon and, once they’ve done that, they’ve lost them forever. If we train consumers to go to Amazon to find the newest Birkenstocks, then eventually that’s where that consumer is going to go. And, as it stands now, we would be training the consumer to go to a marketplace that is currently not consistent with the equity of our brand. So, to answer question, yes, making the decision to drive consumers to places where we believe they will have the best brand experience is harder than just letting it be sold on Amazon. It just involves a much higher level thought process from brand, marketing, distribution and discipline standpoints. And, frankly, at a time when the industry is a sea of chaos, my goal is for Birkenstock to be an island of sanity. We’ve already made this same decision with brick-and-mortar retailers and the last place we didn’t do it was on Amazon Marketplace. So all we’ve done is make Amazon consistent with the way the brand is found in any mall around the world.

Do you expect other brands to follow your lead?

I can’t speak for other brands. Some have talked and talked about it. We decided we are not going to be talkers; we are going to be doers. I want our partners to know, whatever policy we are talking about or direction we are heading, that when we say something we are going to actually do it. We are completely transparent and customer focused. This is just an example that is consistent with the values we are creating. We don’t want to talk about something for

three years where everybody comes to our booth and bitches about it for a half hour and then we say, “Good meeting,” shake hands and six months later it’s Groundhog’s Day. We did something. Is it the right or wrong answer? I don’t know. I don’t know if there is a right or wrong answer. We just believe that it’s right for us. And let me add that the financial impact wasn’t really even brought into consideration. This was not a decision that was made with spreadsheets.

This was was a decision based on what’s right for the brand and our consumer.

Could this impact your relationship with Zappos?

We certainly hope not. I have a long-term relationship with Zappos management, both personally and professionally. We value that relationship. We enjoy working with Zappos. They have been a phenomenal partner of Birkenstock’s.

Our mission is to bring happiness and satisfaction to consumers and that perfectly aligns with the mission and values of Zappos. We see no better retail partner—online, especially—than Zappos, and we see no reason why, long-term, we shouldn’t continue to build our brands together.

Other than this little bit of news, what else is new?

The whole Amazon thing, honestly, is negligible compared to what’s really happening with our brand. The year has been fantastic, not only in the U.S. but globally.

Why has this time been more than another passing trend?

Traditionally, planets align and a brand or item gets hot. Often when that happens, you tend to think you are a lot smarter than you really are. What you do in those moments proves how smart you are. We believe we have a very smart team. First and foremost, we have kept our discipline. Our strategy is based on relative market scarcity. We never use the phrase, “maximize the business.”

We use “capture the business.” We want our retailers to capture the business while never quite catching up on consumer demand. We want to leave some demand on the table.

The law of supply and (almost meeting) demand.

The analogy I use all the time involves buying bananas. Say you buy three bananas, you eat them and you’ve had a good week. The next week you buy six bananas, you eat five, but when you are making your new shopping list there’s a brown banana sitting on your counter and you say to yourself, “Ugh, I’m never buying another banana; I’m buying apples.” I tell our retailers: I don’t sell apples; I only sell bananas. So my job is to make sure that you never have a brown banana from Birkenstock. That’s the way we have managed our business. It is simple inventory management, but I think one of the hardest things for a brand to do when the planets align and you want to make everybody happy is to capture the business instead of maximizing it. Fortunately, we have constraints on our production—we can only make so many pairs. That’s one factor helping prevent us from overdoing it. The other involves discipline: to keep our hand on the faucet and do what’s right long term for the brand. The more we do that, the more it allows us to spread the brand beyond a hot item.

And that has been the case of late?

When most people think of Birkenstock, they think of the Arizona sandal.

Well, right now in a half dozen of the biggest retailers across the country, their No. 1 item is not the Arizona. The Gizeh, Mayari, Madrid and Daloa sandals are all selling well, which tells us it’s a brand story. We also believe that when somebody new comes to Birkenstock—be it an orthopedic need or a 17 year old who thinks it’s trendy—they become stark-raving fans. It’s a life-changing experience. So even if, next year, the hottest trend is six-inch heels, you >46

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THE EURO TREND REPOR T: SPRING ’17

Anything Goes dummy

A SPOUT OF sweltering weather in Düsseldorf, Germany, wasn’t the only thing bringing the heat to the recent GDS show exhibiting Spring/ Summer ’17 collections. Newness was the buzzword among 740 exhibiting brands that debuted collections across categories spanning couture to comfort. The common thread?

Gender-neutral (and often unisex) styles refused to take sides. Trends like metallic brogues for women were borrowed from the men, while usually female-dominated styles—such as colorful canvas prints—were a popular trend for guys. Of course, some mega-sparkle was thrown in for good measure, ladies only—for now.

Here follows a bevy of spring trends spotted at the show—some with mass appeal, others nicheoriented but noteworthy. And like the multi-cultural attendance of GDS, the diversity of looks on hand mirrors the shoe fashion world we live in today: The unexpected just may have real potential. By Ann Loynd

Suix Grasshopper

Waldlaufer

dummy Gadea

Contemporary Art Splashes of brightly colored designs across footwear canvases bring new meaning to statement shoes. From impressionistic to folk, Pollockapproved details found their way onto an array of silhouettes, including moccasins, sneakers, heels and even combat boots.

Dr. Martens

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

Text Appeal

Arrels Barcelona

In this Snapchat age, emoji-inspired footwear is going viral.

Appearing in the form of prints and patches, icons sent a loud message on sneakers, espadrilles and bags.

Jack & Jones No Brand

Fit to Print Previously reserved for classic checkered, the season presents an array of canvas-printed shoes for men. Slip-ons, desert boots and sneakers are splashed with graphic geometrics and even florals.

Tamaris Levi’s

Kiltie as Charged

Sebago

From classic loafers to unexpected flatforms, sneakers and heels, the embellishment of Spring ’17 is dapper kiltie details.

Binné

Homers

Neon Signs Guy styles are bright enough to make you squint in silhouettes ranging from Chelsea boots and chukkas to boat shoes and even oxfords. The ’80s-era trend spans a range of hues with lime green and bright turquoise leading the spectrum.

Tosca Blu

Wednesday Whiskey

Ara

2016 september • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

THE EURO TREND REPOR T: SPRING ’17 KMB

Glitzy Girl Wize & Ope

Natural elements like jute and raffia may be expected on espadrilles, but brands add glitter and metallic into the mix on this classic silhouette for spring. Because why blend in when you can sparkle?

Only

Allrounder

United Nude

Hogl

Ara

Dress Code Athletic is no lowbrow category abroad. Luxe sneakers featuring rich leathers and fashion accents like pom-poms, LEDs and even heels stood tall.

Cycleur De Luxe

Date Peter Kaiser

Block Party Block heels provide a sturdy base, while architectural details (geometric constructions, Art Deco patterns and mirrored ornamentation) raise the bar on style.

Pikolinos Tamaris

Tribe Vibe The world is getting smaller, and the proof is in the plethora of globally inspired designs at GDS. Weaving, beadwork, pom poms and ethnic patterns once reminiscent of distant lands showed across a broad range of sandals, wedges and loafers.

Dockers

22 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

Mephisto

An Artist’s Hand

The flipside to mass production: giving shoes a handmade feel.

Marco Tozzi

Shoe Shine The brogue may have been introduced for dudes, but leave it to the ladies to bring them up to date in the 21st century with high-shine metallics and sparkly snake prints.

Ara

Caprice

At the Spring/Summer ’17 GDS show, exhibitors took their hand—literally—at defeating sameness at retail and knockoff artists with unique artisanal touches to their collections. For example, at Dutch men’s brand Wednesday Whiskey, Amsterdambased artist Pablo Lücker was on-site creating oneof-a-kind original works on the brand’s boots and oxfords to be part of a special-edition collection available online and in select European retailers.

Meanwhile, Gordon & Bros, a UK-based men’s luxury footwear brand, had a different kind of artist on scene: Düsseldorf-based tattoo artist Max Gertenbach (pictured), who gave its men’s brogues an unexpected ornamentation in the form of some pretty intricate ink work. According to Gertenbach, the brand’s all-leather construction is paramount to being able to tattoo on shoes. The collection is designed to be a push for individuality, the brand’s mission for its target “modern gentleman” customer. To that end, the Gordon & Bros website now features a customizing tool where shoppers can select from Gertenbach’s designs for a personal shoe tattoo. The brand also has planned events with select retailers to have a tattoo artist in-store personalizing its shoes.

Another brand that works primarily in leather, Pikolinos had an artisan in its booth sewing together stamped leather keychains, a takeaway for guests to illustrate the handcrafted nature of its Spanish-made shoes. Juan Manuel Perán, president of Pikolinos, says leather craftwork goes to the core of the brand’s ethos. “She is an artisan who has been sewing at our factory for many years and went to GDS to illustrate the importance of the people behind the sewing machines,” he says. “Since it’s not possible for everyone to come to our factory, we thought it was a great idea to bring a little part of our factory to Düsseldorf.” Perán adds, “The quality and care taken into the construction of every style needs to be communicated to truly understand the brand.”

Other artisanal-themed brands on hand at GDS included fellow Spanish maker Arrels, which regularly collaborates with renowned artists and illustrators to create one-of-a-kind designs for its printed canvas shoes. In addition, Amsterdam-based jacket brand Goosecraft showed off its leatherwork skills with a new shoe line— handmade in Portugal—that features boots and shoes finished to hand to achieve a rich, worn-in look and outsoles made of washed leathers. Other handcrafted details include monochrome or multi-color snakeskin and silver laminated full-grain leather uppers. Last but not least, Neosens, a dress brand crafted in the La Rioja region of Spain, embraces the fact that no two of its shoes are exactly the same, dubbing them “perfectly imperfect.” The line features “restored leather” uppers, a finishing process that involves creams and brushing techniques, that based on varying intensities, create a unique handcrafted finish on each shoe. —A.L. 2016 september • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

W H AT ’S S E L L I N G

Surf Specialty

Ugg,” Hansen notes. “It’s come and gone so many times, but we’ve been the staple. It’s us or the mall, and people don’t want to go to the mall.”

In addition to service and selection, a strong component of Hansen’s success involves its deep community ties. The store sponsors high school surf teams (as well as its own team) and the town’s annual Christmas parade. Hansen’s also awards store dollars for good grades ($4 for A’s and $2 for B’s) and, to date, has given away more than $1 million worth of goods to deserving students. “Our culture is that way. We invest in our customers,” Hansen says. “That’s what makes us successful.

Even now with retail being pretty challenged, we’re still thriving.” —Ann Loynd How has business been this year? Josh Hansen: Business has been really strong; the [footwear] category has been really good.

It been super warm all year, aside for some El Niño-influenced rain and snow that hurt our sandal biz in May and June. We joke that we’re farmers; we need sun to grow. The sun came out in June and July, and business was phenomenal. August has been really strong as well; sandals especially have been performing great.

What is the most effective way of communicating with your customers? J.H.: As my dad has always preached, word of mouth and customer service will always go the farthest. Outside of that, we invest a lot in social media and sharing our story. I always tell employees: This product can be bought anywhere—and often at a discount. We create value through service, authenticity and telling our heritage. So that’s what we do, and we try to use the web to communicate those aspects and hopefully create new customers beyond our loyal customer base.

HANSEN’S SURF SHOP

T

Encinitas, CA

HE LEADERS BEHIND Hansen’s Surf Shop are as sunny as the store’s Encinitas, CA, location and, according to owner Josh Hansen, the mood of their customers follows suit. “They’re super happy to be on the beach, which is right across the street,” he says, adding, “People are stoked on life.”

Nestled in San Diego County in the heart of surf culture, it’s hard not to have a sunny disposition. Hansen’s employees are one big happy family rooted in their community since the business launched in 1961

by Hansen’s father, Don, who transitioned it from a surfboard maker into a surf shop in the mid ’70s. The store employs many long-timers, including footwear buyer Patty Bolton, who has worked at Hansen’s for 20 years. “The people that serve you here are the people you see in the grocery store, at the beach and in the park,” she offers.

Along with an assortment of surfboards and gear, the 15,000-squarefoot shop features an extensive selection of men’s and women’s apparel, accessories and footwear. Best-selling sandal brands include OluKai, Reef, Rainbow, Havianas and Cobian along with such year-round faves as Vans and Converse. “Over the winters, we’ve had a phenomenal business with

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

Does Hansen’s have any unique customer traits? J.H.: [Our customers] are passionate about their active lifestyles. And while a lot of our volume in the summertime is from people traveling from all over the country to visit San Diego, at the end of the day they’re just beach/sun/active-lifestyle enthusiasts.

What’s the biggest challenge currently facing your business? Patty Bolton: As far as shoes, ladies’ closed-toe shoes are a challenge.

We women are a fickle bunch! Customers are asking me for boots, running shoes—they want everything. And it changes fast. I have men who come in and take their sandals off that they’ve been wearing for three years and say, ‘I want to buy the same style as this again.’ Women always want something new and different.

J.H.: Footwear is a destination department in our store, and you will see a massive amount of sandals. That is a challenge to maintain. Generally speaking, people expect a big selection, especially with the Internet and major retailers like Nordstrom. Unless you commit on that level—like we do with our sandal biz—it’s hard to compete.

What’s the best thing about walking into Hansen’s? J.H.: I was raised in Montana, so until I graduated college I’d come out a couple of times a year, and I remember walking into the store and smelling the surf and the wet suits. It sticks with you. I understand why people love surf shops.

P.B.: Billabong had a logo, ‘Only a surfer knows the feeling.’ Everyone who comes in can get to know the feeling.

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

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2 5

3

PH OTO G RAP H Y BY JOS E P H PLU CH IN O

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Sexy Back

High- or low-heeled, mules reveal that going backless is better.

1. Secret Celebrity 2. Jambu 3. Latigo 4. Restricted 5. All Black 6. Joan Oloff 26 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

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PH OTO G RAP H Y BY JOS E P H PLU CH IN O

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Slip ‘n’ Slide

Slides offer stylish ease and comfort for guys.

1. SAS 2. Propet 3. Rockport 4. Island Slipper 5. Eastland 28 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

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Seven Dials espadrille sandals, knit robe and dress by ICB. 30

Vintage textile slip-on by Sbicca, turtleneck by Alice and Olivia, Karen Millen skirt. Opposite page: Restricted flats, Magaschoni sweater, Helen Yarmak fur, skort from Maje.

32

Clockwise from top left: Daya by Zendaya caged stiletto, Toni Pons and Vidoretta espadrilles, ballet flat by French Sole, Coolway flatform. Opposite page: T-strap rain shoe by Cougar, Scotch & Soda sweater, dress by Nanette Lapore.

34

36

Slide by Summit White Mountain, Maje sweater, ICB knit pants. Opposite page: Dansko stacked heels, DKNY top, Siwy jeans, skirt

by Tory Burch.

Pikolinos embroidered espadrille, Nanette Lapore dress, Helen Yarmak fur. Opposite page: Wedges by Sixtyseven, Alice and Olivia jacket, Karen Millen trousers.

Fashion Editor: Ann Loynd; hair and makeup: Matthew Sky/Next Artists; model: Amanda L./Muse Model Management.

38

EDITOR’S PICKS

PINK PRANCERS S tr u c tu r ed b alle t fl at s in s w ee t s h ad es o f p in k .

Joan Oloff

French Sole

D E S I G N E R C H AT

AFTER 12 YEARS of working for someone else as a designer and a consultant in all facets of the shoe industry—women’s, men’s and kids’, low-end to high—Lindsay Star Toomey believed it was time she branched out on her own. That time has come with the Spring ’17 launch of her eponymous collection of women’s dress shoes that the designer describes as having a “huge emphasis” on comfort.

“It was a very natural evolution to create my own line,” she notes, adding that the collection is, “bright, playful and bold.”

Toomey describes the line as “chic comfort,” and it features classic silhouettes with edgy fits in bright iterations. The shoes also include a patented comfort insole the designer developed with the aim of creating shoes women could wear during the day as well as for a night out. Toomey plans to manufacture the collection in Italy and the U.S. Suggested retail prices range from $350 to $500.

Aiming to curate an air of exclusivity, Toomey’s distribution strategy is focused on a tight grouping of boutiques coupled with a direct-to-consumer online channel. As for who the Lindsay Star Toomey customer may be? “Basically any women who embraces comfort, quality and an artisanal product,” the designer answers.

“She’s sophisticated yet edgy, and understands that confidence extends from comfort.” Down the road, Toomey hopes to extend that philosophy into a men’s collection. —Ann Loynd Where do you look for design inspiration? I don’t really, it tends to find me. Most of my ideas come from when I’m in nature traveling, and I’m very inspired by the cosmos.

What’s the message of your brand? It’s not really about the shoes but about how the shoes make you feel. My main goal is to create 40 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

Earthies

product that makes women feel comfortable and beautiful and brings joy to their lives.

Comfort and fashion can coexist, and you don’t need to jeopardize one for the other.

What’s the most rewarding aspect of being a designer? Just getting to see my visions come to life, from the initial sketch on paper to the final product. I love the entire creative process.

Who is your fashion icon? This is a really hard question for me, there’s so many! I rarely pay attention to what other footwear designers are doing, and I find it easier to

stay authentic that way. But with fashion in general, I love the ’60s. I’m also a huge fan of Stevie Nicks.

What would you be doing if you weren’t in the shoe business? Maybe a drummer in a rock ‘n’ roll band traveling the world.

What celebrities would you like to see wear your shoes? Music is a huge inspiration, so Lou Doillon or Emily Armstrong.

What is your motto? Style is built, shoes are the foundation. Life is better when they’re comfortable.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY J O S E P H P LU C H I N O

LINDSAY STAR TOOMEY

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BUYER CHAT

Dana Schwister Shoe Market

Social Network Marketing platform ShopSocially on the importance of a social angle to boost retailers’ success.

IN A SOCIAL media–obsessed age, the ability for retailers to navigate that world, understand how it affects business and be able to profit from it is not just an asset—it’s paramount. Enter ShopSocially: a unified marketing platform for social, referral and loyalty solutions that claims to aid marketers in acquiring, converting and retaining their customers.

Launched in 2011, Samir Palnitkar, president of ShopSocially, says that more than 500 businesses around the world are using the platform, and the numbers cited are impressive—the average business sees 15 percent new customers, a 21-percent increase in conversion rates and a 26-percent increase in repeat sales.

The platform helps marketers achieve these kinds of results by designing what Palnitkar describes as a customized loyalty and referral solution.

“It comes bundled with nine social engagement modules such as pre- and post-purchase referral programs, visual commerce, social gamification, email acquisition, customer Q&A, shop with friends and more,” he explains, adding, “The platform offers a comprehensive ‘suite’ of marketing solutions that eliminate the need to implement multiple inconsistent solutions and deliver a measurable ROI.” Palnitkar notes that the platform has delivered an ROI of 20 times to hundreds of customers and has been featured in a case study by Facebook.

Of the 500-plus retailers ShopSocially currently works with, online footwear retailers include Foot Care Depot and The Insole Store. Palnitkar reports that Foot Care Depot has achieved a 46.4 percent sales conversion rate using ShopSocially’s Get-an-Email app. Along those lines, he says online footwear retailers utilizing ShopSocially can formulate a customized referral program which can drive up to 15 percent new customers to their site. The platform also allows retailers to make a customized loyalty program “with 360-degree engagement,” which Palnitkar claims can increase customer lifetime value by five times.

ShopSocially’s suite of solutions (platform fees vary depending upon monthly unique visitor count, the solution and which specific services the retailer chooses) work well for many types of businesses, and it is particularly well-suited to shoes, Palnitkar says. “If a customer finds a right fit they would like to share their excitement with their friends and family,” he offers.

“ShopSocially’s solutions make it easy for retailers’ customers to share their stories and sentiment’s with their friends and helps convert customers into brand ambassadors.” —Lauren Olsen 42 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

LONG BEFORE IT was among the coolest places to be, Dana May Schwister and partner Erika Vala opened a store called Mini Mini Market in Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhood, circa 1999. “It was way before anything was really happening here,” recalls Schwister.

“We had this tiny boutique and were selling anything that caught our fancy—our shoes were really taking off, so we thought we had an opportunity to open a shoe store.”

After an expansion, the duo opened a new store in the same neighborhood, dubbed Shoe Market. Today, the store’s top-selling brands include Jeffery Campbell, Eric Michael and Hunter, and Schwister touts that the team is always looking for well-made, well-priced and fresh options. For Spring ’17, Schwister forecasts that her team will do well with sneakers, mules and laser cuts—meaning plenty of options for her customer base of about 80 percent women, which she estimates being between ages 20 and 65.

Shoemarketnyc.com, which became shop-able in 2008, boasts only a very small part of sales (less than 1 percent). Schwister guesses the majority come from customers who visited the store and later decided to buy. But that’s all set to change as the site is in process of a major reboot slated to launch this fall. The goal? “Clean it up, make it prettier, focus on the shoes, and have something that is both easier for us and our customers to use,” she affirms. Schwister hopes that the site will account for at least 10 percent of total sales to start. “We are working to gain more customers that do not live in Brooklyn,” she says. “Ideally, we want to be able to reach and retain customers wherever they live.” —L.O. Why are you pushing into online now? Our site has not been updated in over seven years. We need to make it more user-friendly and freshen up its appearance.

What are you doing to get this site redesign off the ground? We have hired a great designer. She is helping us switch to a mobile-friendly platform, change the formatting of our product photos and overall create a streamlined shopping experience for our customers.

How might the redesign be different than the store? We will have fewer products on the site than in the store, and we will be highlighting our bestsellers and collabs with designers.

What are your expectations and goals for the new site? We are looking to increase traffic to our site by at least 50 percent. We are hoping with better product images and an easier platform for shopping we will overcome some of the obstacles we hit with our current platform.

If you weren’t in the shoe biz you would be… A song writer.

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UPCLOSE COMFORT

In the Game Ecco pushes further into the sports arena for Spring ’17.

KNOWN FOR ITS traditional comfort and dress classics, many of Ecco’s Spring ’17 expansions are notably sportier in design and aesthetic. The step in the athletic direction is partly in response to millions of yoga pants–wearing consumers that simply can’t be ignored. Athleisure is more a lifestyle shift than a fleeting trend.

Led by the inclusion of new technologies, like Gore-Tex Surround that provides 360 degrees of climate control and waterproofing, Ecco is focused on offering meaningful performance benefits in addition to sport style that has been incorporated into designs suitable for the trail, the gym and the street.

Take the Biom Venture, for example. It’s a multi-sport trail shoe that, with the addition of Gore-Tex Surround, turns into all-conditions (wet, dry, hot or cool) gear. “It’s 360-degree breathability,” says Thomas Dixon, product manger golf and sport, Ecco Americas. “It’s like climate control for the shoe.” Available in women’s and men’s versions, a pedal pad on the outsole makes the trail sneaker ideal to go from a hike to a bike ride.

Budget Fashion Introducing Koolaburra

by Ugg, a more affordable sheepskin-based brand.

DEBUTING IN A select group of national chains this fall, Koolaburra by Ugg—described as the free-spirited little sister to the reigning shearling brand—aims to attract Millennial-aged fashionistas on a budget. “So many people in the market have been leveraging our designs at this tier,” says Jennifer Somer, vice president of Ugg women’s lifestyle and GM of Koolaburra, both divisions of Deckers Brands. Rather than take Ugg down market or just forfeit sales to those competitors, Somers says Koolaburra

by Ugg aims to capture this sizeable audience.

All styles in the Koolaburra line are priced under $100 retail and offer “all of the comfort 44 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

For those traversing tamer concrete jungles, Ecco is launching an athleisure style for women dubbed the Biom AMRAP (“as many reps as possible”). It features a mid-foot strap for various training workouts. “It’s very functional for working out with athleisure style that can be worn every day,” notes Dixon of the shoe’s stylish profile. He adds that it’s designed to pair with gym outfits as easily with skinny jeans. The style is available as a slip-on with a sock-like upper or as more traditional lace-up.

Along those lines, the Exceed is another sneaker that features a textile upper with PU-based cage system and foam midsole. The sport chic style is designed as an active walking shoe that translates from country to city. Also embodying those aesthetics is the new Intrinsic sandal. A neoprene upper has lots of stretch while lowto-the-ground sole construction offers exceptional walking comfort. “We wanted to create a sport lifestyle sandal that fit the athleisure trend and, specifically, Millennials,” Dixon says, adding, “We have had great success with our Intrinsic line and have always done well with sandals.” Plus, an all-leather gladiator style for women ups the fashion quotient next spring.

The sportier slant for spring, overall, is aimed at capturing a broader share of consumer closets. “Athleisure has shifted from a trend to a complete lifestyle,” Dixon says, adding that the category is broad. “The great thing about athleisure is that it spans across different generations and demographics,” he says. “When you make shoes that appeal to a variety of consumers, you can reach so many different types of people.” —Ann Loynd

our customers have come to love us for,” Somer assures. For example, sandals will feature Deckers Brands’ standard comfort footbeds and all boots feature EVA outsoles. Adjustments to keep the price point low are more aesthetic-based. For example, the collar on classic boot styles feature real shearling with a faux lining underneath as opposed to Ugg, where the boots have 100-percent shearling lining.

The follow-up to the tight inaugural fall line offers nine new silhouettes for Spring ’17. The collection spans sporty trainers, sky-high wedges and strappy sandals. Metallic, cork and canvas are key design elements while touches of fringe, jute and braided leather ups the style ante. Somer notes that cork, in particular, is an important material due to its natural comfort properties. The collection is priced from $35 to $60 retail.

Koolaburra by Ugg will debut in Kohl’s, DSW, Shoe Carnival, Rack Room and Off Broadway Shoe Warehouse—chains that, for the most part, represent new business for Deckers Brands. And while these consumers may be seeking low prices, they have high style standards. Unable to resist a good playon words, Somer describes the target consumer as the “Koola girl.” She’s a slightly younger consumer (18 to 35 years old) than Ugg’s target audience (28 to 45 years old) and a free spirit who lives a busy lifestyle. She ranges from a college student to a working Millennial mom and possesses a high fashion IQ. Demographically speaking, Somer adds, it’s a broad audience with plenty of growth potential.

“We see a lot of opportunity going forward,” she confirms, adding that for Fall ’17 the brand plans to add weatherproof offerings to its casual boots as well as a kid’s collection. “At some point, I could see multiple categories,” Somer says. “And North America is the [current] target, but we may begin to look internationally.”

In the meantime, Somer is confident that Koolaburra by Ugg won’t overlap with Ugg’s business. “We did a tremendous amount of consumer research,” she reports. “Ugg has always had a premium position in the market. This is a way to get new people into the Deckers Brands family.” —A.L.

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Propét debuts athleisure options featuring unique weaving technology.

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TO SHOWCASE ITS new 3-D weaving technology, Propét has gone to wondrous lengths by emblazoning its Travel Fit shoes with intricate images of seven world wonders, including the Great Pyramids of Egypt, the Great Wall of China and Machu Picchu in Peru. “We wanted to show that you can do almost anything with this 3-D woven concept,” explains Jennifer Sokso, director of marketing. “We started with high-quality digital images and worked through many versions of how to lay them out on the shoes.”

The result, Sosko says, looks like a fine tapestry, adding that the process isn’t overly expensive to produce. The Travel Fit collection is comparable to similar styles in the athleisure category at about $65 suggested retail.

In addition to being iconic images, Sosko says the concept jives well with Propét’s DNA as a maker of comfortable and lightweight walking shoes— the type of footwear perfect for traveling to many of these destinations.

“We sell quite a few of our travel shoes in luggage stores,” she notes, adding, “It just went well together.”

The Seven Wonders collection is, first and foremost, intended to illustrate Propét’s 3-D weaving capabilities. As such, Sosko says the brand doesn’t plan to mass-produce the collection without specific orders but may create limited-edition alternatives, like animal print. “The feedback from accounts is that they might want something with possible broader design appeal,” Sokso says, adding that animal print and animals in general are two examples. “The fact that it’s woven allows us to use many colors, and we’re capable of doing many different patterns.”

The color and material diversity is a new direction for Propét, known primarily for its leather active shoes marketed to an older consumer. In an effort to broaden its style range and audience, Sokso says that for Spring ’17, the brand will debut an expanded collection of women’s athleisure styles featuring its precision-knit mesh. “We’re trying to broaden to people who want to wear colors,” she says, noting that metallic options are available as well. “We’ve got about seven different mesh uppers in our Travel Active and Travel Fit shoes,” she adds.

The new knit additions sport the comfort features Propét consumers expect, like removable insoles and five width variations. Sokso reports that the initial reaction from buyers to its broader range of styles and colors has been positive. “We want to give people with hard-to-fit feet more options for what they can wear,” she says. “We’re trying to broaden the mix and get away from just the back or white options.” —A.L.

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O&A continued from page 19 will have a hard time getting those people out of their Birkenstocks.

In addition to managing supply and demand, there seems to be other factors contributing to the brand’s success—like Boomers and Millennials both being customers, for example.

Aging boomers have orthopedic needs that we fulfill. Secondly, health and wellness and athleisure are much more than just passing trends; it’s part of a lifestyle revolution in the marketplace. Lululemon, for example, went from being a yoga store to ubiquitous fashion. It’s become the uniform. And what pairs well with Lululemon, Nike or Under Armour tights other than sneakers?

Birkenstock. The third aspect—and this is one I’m seeing more of lately—is Millennials coming to the brand who are of the first generation to grow up in what I would call a disposable ready-to-wear society. Their store isn’t the Gap, it’s H&M and Zara. These are consumers who are, by and large, environmentally and societally conscious, yet they buy disposable clothing. In contrast, Birkenstock makes them feel like they are buying something iconic, authentic and long-lasting. They may wear a Zara outfit three times and then throw it out. Their Birkenstocks might go with 10 different of those outfits and they’ll wear the shoes until they’re literally falling off their feet. I think that’s a major factor right now for our brand.

Lastly, in the past when when Birkenstock got hot, we didn’t want to come across as deserting our core customers. Even though fashionable people have now come to the brand, we are not deserting who we are but we are also doing some limited editions, introducing trendy materials and running exclusive programs with partners such as Barneys, J. Crew and Concepts. We are embracing both types of customer.

But we will never do anything that will compromise the wants and needs of our core sit-and-fit consumers.

Birkenstock’s position on DTC? There is no doubt that we need a more robust DTC connection and, over the next year, I’m going to allocate a lot more resources to it. I’m saying “connection” because we think our consumers want a connection with our brand. Any time we sell through a retailer, we give up some control. That said, the No. 1 focus of our DTC efforts isn’t for commercial reasons. Rather, we believe our brand message has to be shared with our consumers and DTC is one of the best avenues to do that.

Devil’s advocate: DTC competes with your retail partners.

That’s very true, but I think it’s just a reality of business today. It’s one ecosystem of retail, and as a consumer brand and not just a transactional one, who better to own our messaging than us? It’s nothing negative about our retailers—we value them and we will do everything to drive traffic to them—but we have to make sure that some element of the communication to the consumer is done directly. And we will find out over the next one to three years how much of that converts to a commercial element.

“I don’t believe direct-toconsumer will ever replace our good retail partners.”

What are your goals for the rest for this year?

We’ve experienced growing pains this year with regard to some deliveries and operations. So my main goal is to gain operational efficiencies to better service our customers. Second is to make sure our that our closed-toe shoes and boots programs for this fall are successful. Last season we planted some seeds and had some great sell-throughs in a season that wasn’t a great one for boots overall. We expect this year to be better. Last but not least, my role is changing considerably. I came here initially to jump start the U.S. division, but as CEO of Birkenstock Americas [which includes the U.S., Canada, and South America], my goal is to set up an organization that will enable us to succeed across the entire region. It involves adding key team members like Scott Radcliffe, our first true vice president of marketing. We’ll be adding some other leadership roles that will allow me to act with a broader perspective rather than as a day-to-day sales manager. There are some bigger picture aspects that I need to focus on.

Such as?

We are setting up a completely decentralized business model for this region.

We are in the process of hiring a creative director just for the Americas. It will allow us to have design and merchandising resources focused solely on our product needs. We are also setting up an office in New York to house a digital marketing team and serve as our Americas design headquarters. In our California offices, we will be adding more merchandising roles. Overall, I wouldn’t call it autonomous, rather it’s about thinking globally, acting locally.

Speaking of big picture issues, the growing direct-to-consumer (DTC) movement is one. Nike, for example, expects to do $5 billion annually in five years—that’s a lot of money that used to go through retail. What is 46 footwearplusmagazine.com • september 2016

I find it hard to believe the majority of consumers will ever prefer to shop strictly DTC—meaning one brand site to the next. Zappos, for example, is successful because of its breadth of brands.

Nike sells Foot Locker because their products in one of their windows validates the brand. When somebody sees Birkenstock in Nordstrom, Dillard’s, Journeys or in the best independent stores, it validates the brand.

So I don’t want to ever be so presumptuous to think that our DTC will purely validate the brand. I just think there’s a place for everything in the market.

But I don’t believe DTC will ever replace our good retail partners. By good, I mean are retailers doing the same thing year after year and expecting business to improve? One of the main reasons brands are focusing on DTC is due to the amount of staleness at retail. But as long as the retailers tell our story well—via shop-in-shops and powerful brand statements—we are not looking to shift the consumer’s buying patterns.

You mentioned chaos at retail. Is there a chance of it calming down anytime soon? Or is this the new normal?

The past few weeks have been pretty good. Having said that, a lot of retailers are acting like ping pong balls: one day they are up, the next day they are down. It rains, they are sad. If it’s sunny, they’re happy. If it’s too hot and humid, they are sad again… There’s just no consistency, which is the same of shopping patterns. There’s nothing scientific to help make decisions. It brings me back to the only thing you can be consistent about is how you operate your brand. I believe if you do that, then you can better withstand whatever the chaos in the marketplace may be. That’s why I believe the only store in the mall that is consistently mobbed of late is Apple. They are consistent spaces where you can really connect with the brand. And there are so few brands right now that haven’t wavered trying to chase the chaos.

You are an outlier if you have been consistent. Now that doesn’t mean that we haven’t adjusted to what’s going on, but it shouldn’t involve giving up on who you are entirely either. That’s part of the consistency that we are bringing to everything we do as a company.

What do you love most about your job?

Absolutely, the people. Our global team includes some of the hardest working and most visionary people I have ever known. I believe we have an amazing group here in the U.S. and our retail partners are terrific. I just love the fact that there are so many people in this industry that I can call friends. •

continued from page 12 Brooklyn, burgeoning trends that span bespoke to Boho. It is ground zero for trendy Millennials and their social media–driven influence. In fact, the borough is serving as a blueprint for new urban outposts as nearby as Queens and as far away as Omaha. Brooklyn, it seems, is a way of life.

“This is one of my favorites,” notes WGSN’s Barr of this macro theme. “It’s all about the emerging creative neighborhoods outside of urban cities.” According to Barr, this influence appears in the form of a “dusty palette of bright pastels with a gritty edge and feminine detailing.” She cautions that though this theme has a folky/vintage feel, it’s not the needlepoint or floral wallpaper one might expect. Rather, it has the grit and edge of these urban outskirts balanced by feminine colors. The look, she says, is that of someone’s grandmother having stitched the embroidery onto a beautiful leather sandal.

“We’re putting the idea that things look natural and handmade over the futuristic,” confirms Siriano, who notes embroidery, buttons and overlay fabrication as key details for Spring ’17. “The shoes have a vintage feel, but we’re trying to modernize them with fabrication,” he adds.

Naomi Reid, designer for Latigo, agrees that this inspiration is key for her collection. “It started with Brooklyn being in and Manhattan being out,” she notes, adding, “Now Brooklyn isn’t affordable, so people are going to cities like Baltimore and Salt Lake City.” Reid was inspired by a trip she took with her husband to rural California, particularly to a town called Nevada City. She stumbled upon a corporative of craftspeople called Gold Dust Collective. “This was the most beautifully put-together store from artisans all over that area,” she says. “This a tiny town, but all these people had moved there and created this amazing artistic community.”

Reid is incorporating details that evoke a handmade feel—like using stacked wood heels instead of wrapped heels—into Latigo’s spring line.

She continues to be inspired by these new creative outposts: “As a shopper and an explorer, going into beautifully curated stores run by individuals is so much more inspirational than walking into Aldo,” she says.

4. RETRO ATHLETIC You may have seen this one coming, but by all expert accounts, athleisure isn’t going anywhere. It’s comfortable, versatile and sexy: What’s not to like?

“Nothing’s replaced it yet. Athletic [fashion looks are] still a key driver,” confirms Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD Group. For Spring ’17, sport borrows inspiration from the late ’80s and early ’90s. According to WGSN’s Barr, this manifests in the form of gender-neutral styling and bright, primary colors. She adds that Salt-N-Peppa and old-school Jennifer Lopez serve as muses for this trend. “Think vintage pumps and hi-top sneakers, rubber cleat soles on sandals with white-rubber bottoms,” Barr says.

“Pre-Spring 2017 had a very strong ’90s vibe with all of the simplistic carefree styles—slip dresses, bomber jackets and slides,” agrees Otte’s Massey. “There was definitely a noticeable ode to the ’80s as well, with all the ruffles and voluminous silhouettes.” She is particularly akin to the effect these trends had on sneakers incorporating ruffles, smocking and denim.

Similarly, Cleary sees ’90s whimsy “across the board—from running shoes to luxury designer styles.” Cleary believes that the trend of pairing sneakers with dresses for summer will be even stronger next year. Why? Because sneaker designers are delivering options. “It’s bolstered by these choices in the market,” she says. “If we didn’t have super-cute sneakers, people wouldn’t embrace the look as much.”

The other arm to this influence, according to Barr, is the rise of East Asia’s global influence. “A ton of our clients that are based in the U.S. are looking to expand into that region,” she says. “There’s massive amounts of money to be spent there.” That power, she says, is helping drive flatforms, sport sandals and ’90s minimalistic styles.

It’s a cocktail of factors that gives athleisure and sneakers staying power.

“This is a consumer-born trend,” explains Cohen. “It has more endurance, because it wasn’t the market [dictating to consumers]. It’s the consumer wanting to wear the same shoes to the gym and from the gym.’” •

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