Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2013 • April/May

THE “SMALL WORLD” OF BBC’S TRACEY MCLEODsEURO TREND REPORTs10 RETAILING TIPSsEDITOR’S PICKS: LEATHER KICKS

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THE KIDS’ ISSUE

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A PRI L/MAY

2013

Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Social Media Editor Maria Bouselli Assistant Editor

8 Top 10 Retailing Tips For Kids’ Industry experts and store owners share their keys to success. By Maria Bouselli

Kathy Passero Editor at Large Tim Jones Senior Designer

10 Q&A: BBC Int’l President Tracey McLeod discusses the company’s global strategy, and where the kids’ market is headed. By Greg Dutter

Judy Leand Contributing Editor

16 Sole Providers Wee Soles of L.A. blends a unique mix with expert fitting and community outreach to become a retail star. By Lyndsay McGregor

20 Age Appropriate Leading kids’ brands reveal their take on fashion and function. By Angela Velasquez, Lyndsay McGregor and Maria Bouselli

26 Trend Spotting Colorful weather boots, pops of brights in kicks and stylish clogs are must-have kids’ styles for fall. By Angela Velasquez

30 Euro Trend Report The hot trends and silhouettes out of Germany’s GDS Show. By Angela Velasquez

34 Fashionistas PA G E

34

Hot kids’ styles for fall that are front row worthy. By Angela Velasquez

ADMINISTRATION Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager

4 Editor’s Note 6 This Just In 24 What’s Selling 44 Shoe Salon 46 Comfort 48 Last Word On the cover: Me Too glitter smoking slippers, Chloé cardigan worn over Fruit of the Loom tank, sequin- and crystal-embellished capelet

by Tutu Du Monde, Pale Cloud skirt and tights by Trimfit.

Left: Cooking up kids’ fashion trends for fall in Livie & Luca duck boots and Etiquette socks. Stylist’s flannel shirt and pants.

Photography by Michael Brian. Styling by Angela Velasquez. Hair and make-up

by JSterling and Briana Mirzo for jsterlingbeauty.com.

Laurie Guptill Production Manager Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Theodore Hoffman Special Projects Director OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl.

New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) Vol. 24 issue #4 The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2013 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

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FOOTWEAR

F FA N Y J U N E 5 & 6 M I DTOW N L O F T 2 67 F IF TH AV E N U E 1 1T H F LO O R G I R L S B OYS B A BY 8 6 6.595.0 872

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editor’s note the kids are all right

Kicks Down Memory Lane I remember those must-have shoes of my youth like I wore them yesterday.

Perhaps working at a shoe magazine was inevitable ing my senior year, returning to my shoe fashion roots by sporting canvas for me, considering the importance I placed on havhi-top Chucks again—this time in fire engine red. Occasionally I still run ing the styles of the moment as a kid. I made my into old acquaintances who remember me as “the guy who always wore fashion preferences known every time my mother those crazy red hi-tops.” took my three siblings and I on our semi-annual shoe Kids today have far more footwear choices. There are shoes with licensed shopping excursions at Shoe Town in Springfield, NJ. characters, shoes that light up, shoes that change colors in the sunlight, By the time I reached second grade, I wanted to wear shoes that come in the shape of animals, shoes that talk and an extensive what my older brothers deemed the “cool” sneakers— selection of adult takedown styles. Our industry has come a long way from not the knockoffs my mom bought for me at our local supermarket. Mom the days when plain white canvas hi-tops were the end-all and be-all. In assured me that I’d get to wear Converse Chuck Taylor canvas hi-tops when honor of our special kids’-themed issue, we’ve rounded up some of the key I got a little older, but that didn’t make wearing what the neighborhood children’s trends for this fall in our story Fashionistas (p. 34). kids derisively dubbed “Path-Mark specials” any less embarrassing. I was And while parents have plenty to choose from in age-appropriate designs making a fashion faux pas before I knew French was a language. The fact (think pink sparkles for girls and sporty kicks for boys), there’s no denying that the shoes had a synthetic outsole, which made them slippery on gym that the mini-me trend is taking a lead role this season. That’s the word from floors, convinced me that they were a danger to my health as well as my Roz Viemester, owner of New York’s Shoofly children’s shoe boutique and the social standing. subject of our “What’s Selling” department (p. 24). For more than 25 years, My mother finally gave in to my demands for Chucks. I remember those Viemester has been ushering in the latest kid trends for her über-trendy first few pairs like it was yesterday—strutting down the street in my fresh Tribeca neighborhood residents, and her perspective on what’s hot is a mustsnow-white hi-tops with the big star logo on the inside heel, perfect for a read. Our retail profile of Wee Soles of Los Angeles (p. 16) provides another pick-up game of hoops. I was ready window into the world of successful for action—and I was convinced those kids’ shoe retailing. Owners Darci sponge-soft rubber soles made a differRosenberg and Tamsin Carlson, forMe sporting my Chucks as a member of the Maplewood All-Stars and graduating from ence whenever I drove to the hoop. mer professional dancers, have creatSyracuse University in my “dress shoes.”

The years that followed were marked ed a destination offering trendy kids’ by a succession of must-have shoes: I styles and professional fitting. graduated to leather Converse hi-tops Last but not least, this month’s in junior high. Adidas Sambas became Q&A with Tracey McLeod, presithe shoe of choice for soccer players dent of BBC Int’l., (p. 10) offers an when I was in high school. There was unparalleled level of insight into the a brief run on sporting Bata racquetchildren’s market. McLeod has been ball shoes, too. (It was a short-lived with the kids’ shoe powerhouse for fad.) Then The Preppy Handbook craze more than 20 years. She’s also a ushered Sebago Docksiders onto the mother of two. If it’s happened or if scene. They became “dress shoes” for it’s about to happen in kids’ footwear, guys who thought wingtips were footMcLeod has the scoop. wear for fathers. Another non-sneaker To expand on my trip down shoe style that came into vogue when I was memory lane, we’d like to invite you a teenager was the Herman Survivors to share favorite shoe fashion phoboot, our town’s take on the classic tos from your own childhood. Share Timberland wheat boot. When worn them on our Facebook page and with the laces undone and the pants we’ll run a collage in an upcoming partially tucked in, they were dubbed issue of Footwear Plus. “burnout boots” (a look made famous

by Judd Nelson’s character in The Greg Dutter Breakfast Club). I came full circle durEditorial Director

1978

1989

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THIS JUST IN

Walk This Way

Petite Parade, kids’ fashion week in New York, showcases the latest footwear trends. By Melodie Jeng 6

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SPECIAL REPORT

Top 10 Kids’ Retailing Tips Industry experts give pointers on how to make 2013 a great year and potentially create customers for life. By Maria Bouselli

CHILDREN CAN BE one of the toughest footwear customers—retailers have to please both the parent and the child, and we all know those fashion preferences can vary to the utmost extremes. But if retailers can appease fashion tastes as well as address the concerns of parents over proper fit, they could very well win over customers through their childhood and, quite possibly, their own children. And let’s not forget the growth spurt bonus where new shoes aren’t an indulgence but rather a necessity. “Once or twice a month, children need to buy shoes, so you’re building a relationship and interacting more frequently with customers,” says Matthew Priest, president of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America. According to Priest, children’s footwear makes up approximately 14 percent of total yearly revenue for the shoe industry—that equates to billions of dollars in retail sales annually.

Here store owners and retail industry experts discuss 10 key tips on drawing in customers with the result of them coming back season after season, year after year and perhaps one generation to the next.

1

MIX IT UP

Product mix and staying up-to-date with the store’s inventory is a big part of keeping customers happy. Dan Butler, vice president of retail operations at the National Retail Federation, notes that seasons today change at a faster pace. “We used to have five major seasons, but now it’s not unusual for many retailers to have 11 to 14 seasons, like having a spring one, two and three,” he says. This faster turnover gives retailers the opportunity to flow in new product on a consistent basis. “This is where the independent store owners have to understand their assortments, where they’re going and what’s coming next,” he adds.

As Stephanie Teichner, owner of Sprong Children’s Shoes in Atlanta puts it, the fresher the better in regards to adding categories and new brands.

“We’re always looking for the next thing,” she says, noting her store carries accessories from socks to hair bands and necklaces, as well as women’s Havianas flip-flops for moms. She also noticed Nike shorts to be a wardrobe staple for girls, so she bought them for her store in an array of colors. “I sell a ton every season,” she says.

Part of the reason to carry extra categories is to make the store a onestop shop for parents. Dan Falvey, children’s buyer for The Kids Barn in West Newton, MA, says the store is adding categories such as infant clothes, accessories and toys for this season to do just that. “We’re trying to make the store a destination, especially for mothers coming in for the first time to capture them as longtime customers,” he explains. Falvey also advises retailers to carry enough sizes in each pair of shoes to ensure they can fit any customer, and to have good, better and best price points of a specific style. “If you don’t have what they want once or twice, they’re not coming back,” he says. He also advises however to manage inventory control: “Make sure you don’t have excess [and] keep on top of your revisions and keep things current. Don’t let things hang around; have a clearance section.”

2

GO KID-FRIENDLY

Store environment is another key to a children’s shoe retailer’s success. When Katie Sanford, co-owner of Petite Chou Chou in Wilton, CT, opened her store last month after running a women’s shoe store for 12 years, the setting was one of the first aspects she addressed. “Inventory is very important but creating the environment that is child-friendly and really cute is also important,” she says. “We wanted to create a place where children say, ‘Mom, I want to go back there.’” Painted animals adorn the walls, a TV is set to children’s shows or movies and toys are at kids’ disposal.

A store set up where children can look at the shoes and where parents can easily find the brand or sizes that they’re looking for adds to the welcoming environment. “Children have to be able to see the shoes—they will help show you what they like and what they don’t like,” Butler says. He advises retailers to break down the floor into categories and size range, and if a particular brand does well in the store, put it front and center. “When you walk in my store, you see we believe in Keen and Teva,” Teichner adds.

3

TALK TO ME

Understanding the little customer and discovering his or her wants and needs is a big part of making a children’s shoe store successful, according to Sanford. And this applies to both parent and child. Before even opening her store, she ensured that it would carry the right brands by doing a ton of market research. And what better way to learn than by going right to the source. “We started asking our customers lots of questions,” she says. “We had a sign-up sheet for customers to put their e-mail, list their children’s ages and their favorite brands.”

Butler adds that children know what they want now more than ever because of technology. “Children know more than you think they do,” he notes. “And [stores] have to address them in their marketing.” He also believes that children should be treated as a buying customer by the sales staff and that this will result in better communication and increases the odds of converting a sale. “Adults more received by children are the ones that talk to them at their level—they’re people too,” he says.

4

PARTY ON!

Increasingly in the face of online retail competition, kids’ retailers are learning that in-store events are big pull-ins for customers. “It’s becoming more and more important,” says Beth Saper, co-owner of Little Feet in Denver. “I feel like you can’t just sell shoes anymore. You have to provide above and beyond services and education and information to the customer.” Little Feet sponsors a shoe-tying class once every other month where Saper uses the Shoe Tying Made Simple product, sings songs and plays fun games to help her littlest customers learn to tie their shoes. Little Feet also sponsored an event with the mayor reading to the community in store before-hours to promote a local non-profit that provides children with books. The store also has Sweet

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Cookie Saturday every week as a sugar fix hook for parents and kids.

Sanford says that once the weather warms up this spring, Petite Chou Chou plans on throwing an opening party complete with face painting, balloon animals and snacks to solidify their presence in the neighborhood.

But Butler warns retailers not to forget what these events are all about.

“Never lose focus of the fact that the events are used to engage customers with the staff and product,” he says. He names special size fitting events, kids’ fairs or bringing in experts, such as a soccer coach in a store with a big athletic category to give kids tips on their game, as possible in-store events.

5

WINDOWS TO THE SOLES

While any retailer worth their salt knows window displays are another key aspect that can help draw in customers, store owners need to make sure they maximize their potential.

Stephanie Mayer, a window display artist who has worked with several independent retailers and designer brands such as Henri Bendel, Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren, explains that windows are particularly important for smaller businesses that depend heavily on foot traffic. “Smaller businesses rely on showcasing the different products and, in regards to shoes, the different brands in their windows,” she says. She advises children’s shoe retailers to stay true to a kids’ “palette” with a simple storyline, such as children running a race, and bright colors. She also notes that windows should be updated about every six weeks, and that less is more. “The display should be tasteful and not overwhelm the customer,” she recommends.

Teichner updates her windows according to season, with fun holiday themes, popular products or to match the current weather. “Hanging in the window right now are 20 pairs of Nike shorts and umbrellas and raincoats since we’ve been so rainy [in Atlanta],” she says. “Windows are important and it’s important to keep them fresh.”

6

JOIN TOGETHER

Communicating with fellow local brick-and-mortar retailers and supporting each other is a must for independent shoe retailers. Sanford says the local Wilton, CT, toy store donated the play items in her store, and that Petite Chou Chou will participate in the annual neighborhood sidewalk sale.

Saper adds that Little Feet partakes in American Express’ Small Business Saturday, which takes place after Black Friday each year, and the 3/50 Project, an organization with the mission to save independent local stores by encouraging customers to spend $50 a month at three of their favorite independent stores. The 3/50 Project also aided in developing a free app called LookLocal that helps users find locally-owned businesses, who can place their stores or restaurants on the app free of charge.

7

IT TAKES A VILLAGE

Becoming an active member of the local community by supporting causes that are important to local residents can be an excellent way to win the respect and loyalty of your target customers.

“We sponsor just about every sports team in the city, whether it’s baseball or soccer. And we donate to [almost] every charity or school that comes our way,” Falvey says of his Massachusetts-based store. “We want to get our name out there in the community as much as we can.”

Petite Chou Chou sponsors local dance teams and donates 10 percent to their organization with every pair of dance shoes they purchase in-store.

Saper notes that Little Feet partners with The Juvenile Diabetes Research

Foundation every year as a sponsor and participates in The Walk to Cure Diabetes. “We’ve been in business 20 years in the same community,” she says.

“We feel grateful that people are supporting us and we need to show them we want to be [part of ] their activities as well.”

8

GET ONLINE

Creating a store brand and maintaining its message on websites and social media outlets is a useful way to connect with parents who are constantly on the go and not always able to visit the store. “The whole branding concept is about who you are and your mission and your values, and that should come through with every contact with your customer,” says Saper, who adds that they keep Little Feet’s Facebook page constantly updated to regularly engage with customers.

Teichner says her store is also active on Facebook and has an e-mail list as well to alert customers of new product arrivals and sales. Some retailers even have their own blog to communicate with customers.

But Butler warns: “It’s important that you deal with your customers the way they would want to be dealt with.” That means ease up on the barrage of messages and keep your postings relevant to what your business has to offer.

And Butler also advises to be smart with regard to time management. For example, he says, “It’s no good to write a blog if you don’t have a following.”

He also says there’s no shame in seeking out help for something an owner may be unfamiliar with, such as setting up a website.

9

BRING YOUR A-GAME

A well-trained sales staff that knows how to properly fit a child is one of—if not the—main reasons customers return to a kids’ shoe store.

Teichner, as in many stores, has her new sales associates shadow a veteran salesperson for at least one week before they are able to fit on their own. “To me the success of a children’s shoe store is having the customer come in and know that the sales team can fit your children properly,” she says. “And I have a rule that when you put a shoe on somebody you have to ask another salesperson to check the fit. It just gives the parent more confidence that we know what we’re doing—that’s the big thing.”

Butler advises retailers to have vendors come into the store regularly to talk about their brands with the staff. “They can give a 20-minute overview about what’s good about their shoes and what makes them different from competitors so your staff is educated about the product,” he says.

10

SERVICE,SERVICE, SERVICE!

Last but definitely not least is to continually raise the bar on customer service, from taking the time to properly fit a child to making customers feel at home while they shop.

Saper believes her staff ’s above and beyond attitude towards helping customers is one of the main reasons her store continues to be successful. “And customer service can mean going out to a car and measuring a sleeping kid, or helping [parents] out with their kids and watching the baby while they go to the bathroom or whatever,” she notes. “It’s about helping the mom and making the [in-store] experience as easy as possible.”

And if a store takes care of customers, they will most likely return the favor with repeat business. “What I’ve seen so far is a lot of moms and dads will travel to find a good shoe store—people travel to shop a great selection and to receive great service,” Sanford says. • 2013 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 9

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BY GREG DUTTER

ON A ROLL

On the heels of adding Heelys to the BBC Int’l. portfolio, Tracey McLeod, president of worldwide sales and marketing, discusses the conglomerate’s global brand strategy in kids’.

TO SAY BBC Int’l. has just about cornered the kids’ footwear business would not be so far off. A one-stop kids’ resource that features a portfolio of leading licenses (including Ralph Lauren, Guess, DKNY, Born, Sam Edelman, Disney, Airwalk, Marvel and now Heelys), the conglomerate also runs an extensive private label program and consults for numerous brands in need of expertise from a company that knows kids’ footwear like the back of its hand.

BBC, launched 35 years ago by Bob Campbell (one of its original licenses was The Smurfs), is that company. And Tracey McLeod has been an integral part in helping turn BBC into a kids’ powerhouse, having joined the company more than 20 years ago, originally as a package designer turned shoe designer and now executive overseeing its extensive portfolio of brands.

Over the past two decades if it’s happened in kids’ footwear chances are BBC and McLeod have had a hand in creating and then introducing it to the marketplace. The company was the first to introduce lighted technology in the late ’80s; it developed radio frequency technology that tracks the speed of movement; and it introduced sound technology that features the voices of licensed characters on shoes. BBC also developed Black Light LED technology that allows kids to draw on their shoes and the drawings light up in the dark when the shoes are in motion. Put simply, BBC makes kids’ shoes the way a kid might dream of making them, complete with lights, bells and

whistles that literally become toys for their feet. The fact is kids’ footwear is a specialized business that goes far beyond just shrinking down adult styles. Matters of fit, unique materials, construction specifics and design nuances combine to make the kids’ market a much bigger challenge despite the smaller sizes.

“Kids’ is often the area that gets the least attention and companies often have the least experience working in,” McLeod offers. “A lot of people come to us for our market, product and design knowledge because we bring a lot of information to the table.”

When asked point blank if BBC has in fact cornered the kids’ market, McLeod is modest, deferring for others to be the judge. However, she quips that Campbell, her industry mentor and BBC CEO, would respond, “Absolutely.” McLeod believes success is not necessarily determined by the quantity of brands in its portfolio, rather how they all complement one another without cannibalizing each other’s sales. “We choose brands that round out the portfolio as opposed to just adding another label,” she says. “There’s a lot of opportunities that come to us and we’re fortunate to be able to choose where we can layer in a new brand.”

McLeod describes, for example, that the Born girl is different than the Guess girl, and both are different than the Ralph Lauren girl. And while the differences can be subtle, she assures that BBC’s team of designers knows the differences so each brand owns a distinct presence at retail. Take the recently launched Sam Edelman brand. “It’s a hot brand and Sam was looking to get into kids, and we loved the idea,” McLeod offers, “but we first had to address how it would separate from our other brands.” McLeod describes the Sam Edelman girl as more on-trend than its other target girl customers. “The styles can feature a mixture of stone and stud embellishments, or it can be leopard print or trendy colors,” she says. “Whereas Ralph Lauren is very classic with a big Americana heritage—lots of riding boots. And Guess is for that girl who is a little sassier—she’s going to be a little bit more glam and wants metallic. And Born is all about great quality leathers and that girl’s fashion sensibility is more natural.”

Unlike a lot of companies heavily involved in licensing, the harmony McLeod describes from a design perspective extends to the relationships it has with its license partners. Often such marriages can be rocky, short-lived and end badly, whereas BBC has a reputation of being a

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O&A loyal partner and agreements last for years, not a few seasons. In fact, BBC’s partnership with Ralph Lauren is going on 13 this year. “Eighty-five percent of licensing partners we’ve done business with over the years have been phenomenal,” McLeod affirms.

What’s the secret to such licensing bliss and longevity? McLeod says that in addition to a track record of success, it’s about being upfront and realistic with its partners. “It’s really about managing expectations,” she offers.

“Instead of claiming right off the bat that we can make it a $50 million business, our process is much more strategic. We present the U.S. market’s opportunities first and we can break it out over international markets, if they’re interested. It’s all very specific and, subsequently, they feel that What are you reading now? we’re going to do what’s right for their I just finished Steve Jobs’ brand.” McLeod adds, “At the end of biography, which was great. the day, it’s truly appreciated.”

Love him.

McLeod speaks with the perspective and confidence of an industry vetWhat is your favorite movie eran. Twenty-plus years have earned of the past year? Silver her the experience and she exhibits no Linings Playbook. need to sell herself—her resumé itself is enough. But like many who have What one word best built successful careers in footwear, describes you? Positive. she had no intention of ever entering this business in the first place. A Who would be your most graduate of the Fashion Institute of coveted dinner guest? They Technology, McLeod initially had aspivary, but one would be Maya rations of becoming an advertisAngelou. ing executive. But her dual degrees of industrial design and advertising Who is inspiring you most were quickly put to use after she landright now? My in-house ed a job at BBC in packaging and POP design team. They’re just design. Back then the company didn’t so creative and that’s have footwear designers in-house but inspirational to me. when the product developers learned McLeod could draw shoes they started coming to her regularly for such designs. After a year drawing, McLeod asked management if she could learn more about the overall design process. Campbell, ever the entrepreneur, agreed and asked McLeod to hire someone for her position so she could go overseas for six weeks to learn.

Her design career was off and running but, she notes, it’s never been just a design job. “BBC is very entrepreneurial; you don’t just design—you build the product, you price it and you sell it,” she says. “We’ll often go to the customer’s offices and work directly with them. Not everybody does it that way.”

The way McLeod sees it, BBC is more like a kids’ ad agency for footwear companies. (Maybe she became an ad executive after all.) “Companies say, ‘Hey, we really want to build this business...’ Or, ‘It’s an opportunity we’re missing, can you help us out?’ We work more like consultants for multiple companies.” It’s always fast paced, involves a broad range of brands and requires a ton of creativity—all aspects of the job McLeod loves. “It constantly changes and challenges you, especially creatively,” she says. “Whether it’s working with a new brand or working on a new technology or a new creative aspect, there’s multiple ways to keep immersed in many different design aesthetics. It’s made my job constantly fresh.”

McLeod loves BBC’s entrepreneurial spirit, which she credits Campbell for creating and having a strong influence on her managerial style. “It’s one of the best aspects of the company,” she says. “There’s not a lot of bound-

aries to what you can learn and do here. Bob’s kind of great like that.” And McLeod is living proof.

What do you look for when taking on a new brand?

The ability to be a global brand is the most important aspect that we look for when looking at potential new licenses now. With the kids’ market being relatively small, it’s important that we have the opportunity to sell the brand in stores around the world to maximize its overall potential. Unlike in the apparel business where there’s less overhead, in footwear you have to be able to justify all those costs. A brand with a following and position like Ralph Lauren, for example, makes that investment worth it. Today you Besides them, do you have really need the global brand aspect to a favorite designer? It’s make it worth the effort and the globacross the board because I’ve al brand awareness of Ralph Lauren is worked with so many over enormous. We’re in Asia and throughthe years, be it Ralph Lauren, out Europe—in stores like Harrod’s Sam Edelman or even Paul and Selfridges as well as all the best Fireman. Personally, it’s Stella independent booteries. It’s also strong McCartney. across multiple product categories.

And he’s just a genius at marketing the What is your fondest brand. The brand’s whole Americana hometown memory? I was aspect is revered throughout Europe born in Liverpool, England, and increasingly throughout Asia. It’s and moved to the U.S. when just a great brand and that enables us I was 5. But a lot of my to maximize sales worldwide. childhood memories are back

OFF THE CUFF

in England because my dad worked for British Airways and I flew back four times a year. So it’s fish and chips and other very English stuff that makes for a lot of very fond memories.

What is it about Ralph Lauren that connects so well specifically to kids’ footwear?

Moms, obviously, see value in the brand. She’s often already a customer and knows of the brand’s quality. She looks at it the same way with respect to the children’s product. With boys, in particular, we’ve become a go-to lifestyle brand, be it classic boat shoes, boots and oxfords. Moms are comfortable dressing their boy head to toe in Ralph Lauren.

It’s after the initial boom, so what is it about Heelys that interests BBC? BBC has always been a product innovator and we understand technology as well as the play factor with kids. So we plan to revive Heelys’ play aspect with a new product mix. We believe our capabilities in these regards bode well for the brand. A new line will launch for Holiday 2013.

Does Heelys have global appeal?

Definitely. But it’s been an untapped market in a lot of countries around the world. While it sold in Europe very strong, it had only just begun selling in Australia. The room to grow is quite big, and with our distribution network already in place, we will be able to tap into a lot of those opportunities.

Might Heelys have the staying power in kids’ like lighted shoes has had?

I think you hit it on the head with the comparison to lighted footwear. When we first introduced lighted footwear, soon after it peaked at a couple hundred million dollars annually in sales but, years later, there’s still a significant volume business that we do. And we’ve been doing it for more than 20 years

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JUNE 5–7

WEDNESDAY–FRIDAY Hilton New York Hotel & Member Showrooms

2013 SAVE THE DATES: Opening Night Industry Party Wednesday, June 5th: China Grill August 5–7, Monday–Wednesday December 4–6, Wednesday–Friday

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O&A now. As Bob often says, there are new kids growing into the category every day and lighted shoes are just as new and cool to them as they were to their predecessors. A 3-year-old will often instantly say, “Mommy, I want that!”

It never gets old.

It doesn’t. And I think the same thing will apply to Heelys, because it’s looked at more like a toy. A lot of consumers are going to buy that shoe as a gift item—something kids will have fun playing with. It’s really more of an addon sale with respect to kids’ shoe purchases. It’s not in replace of shoes that will also be bought.

Moving on in the portfolio, what makes Sam Edelman run?

First off, Sam Edelman has been a ton of fun to launch. It’s been a limited distribution in Nordstrom and select independents and it’s having amazing sell-through. We plan to introduce it globally in Spring ’14. It’s just trend right and the line is able to play differently than some of our other brands and be more fashion forward.

He’s not worried about having to be too cutesy or traditional, right?

To an extent, yes. It’s unique among a lot of brands in the market. The way the product is styled and the way the brand is merchandised, Sam’s found a very sweet spot. It’s very product, product, product. And Sam is very good at that. I also think he’s pure with his distribution, which is great. He really honors his brand and keeps it protected.

How involved are you with Sam in the design process? Is there a lot of back and forth?

Moreso now because we’ve reached a point—now that we’re 18 months into the relationship—where we can bring ideas to the table. Often it takes six months to really assess a brand and learn what’s working and what’s not and see how it all might apply to kids’. In particular to Sam Edelman, he’s known for a lot of sexy shoes so we know those are not going to work, but the colors are great and a few silhouettes can definitely work. We just ask ourselves, “How can we put a more kid-friendly spin on it?” Or realize a girl will never wear a ballet flat without a strap—just things that are more kid appropriate. We just assess it all to create a collection that works best for both parties.

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Are you looking to add to the portfolio in the near future?

We are always open to offers and we are always looking. It just has to make sense. Does the brand have presence in adult footwear? Or do they have a strong presence in apparel and are looking to cross into footwear? Or do they have a strong potential globally?

Is there a limit to how many brands BBC might get involved with?

It’s hard to say. If it feels right, it’s a great brand and our teams have synergy then it can be one more or it can be five. We’ll fit them in if they are a good fit.

Do you ever envision launching your own brand from scratch?

It’s a possibility. Like I said, we’re always looking. And because it’s something we’ve never done, I think a pure launch would be fun. Bob and I have talked about it quite a few times. In the meantime, however, we’ve got plenty on our plate and Heelys, in particular, looks to be the big launch this year.

We’re also doing a lot of things with our Marvel license, which has been amazing of late. And we are real excited about our exclusive partnership with Kohl’s and our Tony Hawk skate brand. We are also working exclusively with Journeys and our Osirus brand. We’re covering all levels of distribution, which is one of the unique aspects about the company.

What’s your take on the adult takedown trend sweeping kids of late?

Sometimes it’s at the direction of the brand, where internally you’ll hear they just want to make brand statements. That happens often in the athletic tier. But even in regard to Sam Edelman, he’s driving the vision for his brand and often moms like what they see and they want a close iteration of that style. She doesn’t want to buy something else—she wants the exact brand.

Having said that, you don’t want to stray too far from kids’ styles. And the pendulum does swing back and forth between adult takedowns and kids’friendly style phases. All of a sudden something cool or creative gets in the market and it drives kids’-friendly styles, like Skechers recently did with its Twinkle Toes. That was only for kids. So you get fads and now there’s definitely a fad in high-fashion women’s and in athletic style takedowns.

Is that harder to design kids’ shoes realizing you are trying to please a 5-year-old and a 30-year-old at the same time?

It makes for an interesting challenge. The process involves multi-categories,

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multi-constructions and different genders, and then you’re also covering the gamut of sizes where, for example, a 5 year old’s wants and needs are quite different from a 10 year old.

Do you ever feel at times like you have too many voices you must answer in your head?

Why, do I sound crazy to you? (laughs) The fact is you have to build the shoes to appeal to both children and parents. Often for girls, it’s got to be glitter, it’s got to be pink and it’s got to sparkle. And in building it for mom, it’s got to have good function, feature quality materials and be comfortable.

There’s been a lot of talk about the eclectic nature of fashion of late and how there’s not one dominant brand or silhouette. Is that trickling down into kids’ fashion?

To an extent it is, which I like because from a design perspective it can get a little boring when one look is dominant. I understand retailers like a big-ticket item that has been a cash cow, but I love to see the market move. It’s way more fun this way. And when it starts to move, new ideas come into play. What will be that next big thing? With respect to my teenage daughter, the uniform of the past two years may have been Ugg boots, and the uniform next year might be Chucks or Toms, but they’ll all still be wearing jeans and they’ll all have a Jansport backpack. It’s just very interesting to watch. But I’ll admit being in fashion I’m constantly trying to push that envelope a little bit or show her something new. Of late she resisted and has said, “No I’m good with my black Ugg [boots].” And I’m thinking, really? But I also think kids like certain comfort zones and girls, in particular, like that comfort and the easy-on, easy-off nature of those boots. I suspect that the vulcanized construction with a tapered, a-line look like Toms will continue to also trend strong through this spring.

What’s your take on the independent tier for kids’ going forward?

It remains a valuable and important tier of distribution. Their expertise in fit and sizing is something that is difficult to replicate and is a service that many parents demand. Let’s face it—kids are always growing and while you may not do it every single time you take your child to get fitted, every once in a while you need to get their feet measured by a professional. So I think that service is still looked upon as a must.

Nevertheless, parents are increasingly shopping online.

Yes. And I believe that the online experience is going to keep growing.

[For] moms, in particular, the Internet is just such a common resource for her to be able to browse and compare. It doesn’t matter if it’s home goods or clothing for herself or for her child.

How do you think parents have changed most since the recession?

Parents are changing most by how they shop and purchase online—which sites they visit and how they are competitive shopping in that they are always looking for value. Compare the younger mom of a 2 year old today to a mom of a 2 year old 15 years ago, who most likely would always bring their kids into a store and get all of their feet measured. Today a lot of those resources can be found online—you can print out the figurative size chart, you can order two sizes and ship back the one that doesn’t fit at no charge… It’s easy, right? They don’t have to trudge their 2 year old out to the store in the cold or rain.

The mom I live with does exactly what you just described. Little bags of clothing have been arriving—crammed into our apartment mailbox—on a regular basis for our 10-year-old daughter. They’re from a myriad of catalog companies where my daughter browses through them and then the purchases are made online. How do brick-andmortar stores making all the investment in physical overhead costs compete?

How does everybody else compete? I think it’s going to evolve and that tier will become more consolidated. But I don’t think it will ever go >45

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From left: Darci Rosenberg, Tamsin Carlson and Joanna Sacavitch.

SOLE PROVIDER Wee Soles offers L.A. parents an option to outfit their offspring in footwear as stylish as their own. By Lyndsay McGregor

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HEN TAMSIN CARLSON found five stray kittens near her home in August 2011, she had a light bulb moment. She collected the wildlings, had them neutered and vaccinated and hosted an adoption drive at Wee Soles, the kids’ shoe store she owns and runs in Silver Lake, CA, a hip neighborhood just east of Hollywood. “They were so sociable that if children wanted to hold them we would take one out—I kept them in a large dog crate—and they could play with them,” she remembers. Within a few weeks, each kitten was settled with one of Carlson’s customers.

Who says you should never work with children and animals? It’s exactly that sort of kid-friendly attitude that’s kept Wee Sole’s register ringing since its doors first opened in the fall of 2006. Together with co-owners Joanna Sacavitch and Darci Rosenberg, Carlson wanted to create a children’s shoe boutique that offers everything from traditional to trendy, keeping comfort and quality top of mind, something the three mothers found their nabe to be seriously lacking. “The only place around here where you could get children’s shoes was at the mall, or you had to drive to the west side, and the idea of schlepping over there was not appealing,” Carlson says. Seven years later she counts Will Ferrell, Thandie Newton and January Jones among her celebrity clientele. “We try to have everything from basics through to really hard-to-find, unique things,” she says. “Even with the regular brands like Stride Rite, I try to find the shoes that are really different, color-wise.”

SO GOES THE NEIGHBORHOOD Despite the store’s plum location (Silver Lake tops Forbes’ list of America’s Best Hipster Neighborhoods, thanks to its booming arts scene and one of the largest creative class communities in the country. Oh, and James Franco just bought a duplex there. Enough said.) Carlson reveals “something shifted” when the economy went south. “My prices were a lot higher when we opened in 2006 than they are now. People bought [expensive shoes] then. Price really became an issue after the crash in 2009, even among people who still had money,” she says, continuing, “I have to be really careful what I get. It has to be something super-special that I know people will really love. When I’m buying I have to ask myself, is this shoe going to hold up? Is it a decent price point?

Is it going to fit well?” She’s quick to add, “I have customers who know that whatever I pull out has gone under my scrutiny,” and points to Florsheim Kids as an example that appealed to parent, pocket and child alike. “Usually boys don’t like desert boots, but because of the orange sole with the gray on top they liked it,” she says.

Shelves filled with such category leaders as Geox, See Kai Run, Primigi and Venettini line the shop’s checkered floor. And while plenty of orange cube seating is scattered about, Carlson, a self-proclaimed fit enthusiast, prefers to sit on the floor with the kids while she measures and fits—a habit that has worn through multiple pairs of her favorite jeans. “It’s amazing what I’ve learned over the past seven years. Some toddlers have fat feet; some have high arches.

Even brands that say they are wide fitting—if the shoe doesn’t open wide then you can’t get it on!” Flexibility is another key product attribute she looks for now more than before. “We’ve really moved away from the supportive, stiffsoled shoe. If you can’t flex it with one-hand, we don’t want it,” she offers.

“I see lots of kids in fashion shoes like Jordans and they can’t walk in them because they don’t bend.”

PROCESS OF SELECTION A well-worn play kitchen and coloring table keep kids occupied, as does a coin-operated motorcycle outside, while their parents browse the shop’s offerings, which range from quirky (a cherry sandal by Ricosta) to formal (Naturino’s red patent Mary Jane) to everyday (a gray and navy Tsukihoshi sneaker).

IN THE TRENCHES Working with children might seem like fun, but it’s not always peaches and cream.

In fact, it can be downright difficult—and icky—at times. Here, Wee Soles Owner Tamsin Carlson reveals just how challenging it can be and how, sometimes, childish parents are only half the battle. Sound familiar?

Naughty not nice: “Discipline is my biggest issue with parenting right now,” Carlson says, revealing that a child once slapped her in the face and the mother didn’t even apologize.

Hair pulling: “Small children tend to grab whatever is closest in order to feel secure—very often this is my hair!”

Superstition be damned: “Children insist on opening umbrellas. Some parents are really good at restraining, others not so much. Many a time I’ve fit shoes on a kid whilst dodging a swinging umbrella.”

Ewwwww: Since opening the store seven years ago, Carlson has had been inflicted with lice— twice!

Sock it to me: Sometimes, barefoot kids with dirty feet come into the store and their parents refuse to put socks on them when trying on shoes. “That’s valid if the kids are going to wear the shoes with no socks—it’s important that the shoe feels right with no socks. However most of my shoes have white or pale insoles,” she says, adding that she now insists on washing kids’ feet.

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The aftermath of another busy day at Wee Soles.

“The staff at Wee Soles is extremely creative in its taste and manages to get an amazing selection of See Kai Run shoes in a modest amount of space,” says Kelly Peterson, director of sales at See Kai Run. “We can always count on Tamsin for creative merchandising and presenting a unique assortment of our shoes that quickly sell through to her customers. We love her for that.” It’s a sentiment that’s echoed by Gina LaRossa, director of marketing at Primigi USA. “Wee Soles has been a favorite partner and client of ours for a long time. The store represents our brand very well and has a great understanding for the fashion and quality of the Primigi brand,” she says.

As with most retailers, Carlson is trying to guess what’s important to parents, from machine-washable footwear to accessible price points. “Twenty-five percent of my customers come to me because they know I’ll have something unique that they won’t find anywhere else. We have an online store, too, and I even had a customer call me from Florida because she said she couldn’t find anything on Zappos. I’m not saying that we’re competition for Zappos, but we do carry some

things that they don’t have,” she says, adding, “I’ve also noticed that online is playing it safer and safer and has less and less unique products. The hard thing with online is the prices. That’s my biggest battle right now. That 25 percent is probably 60 percent of my business.”

But the value of face-to-face contact at a brick-and-mortar store cannot be underestimated, and Carlson and her business partners take as much pride in their community as they do in Wee Soles.

A small section of the store is a gallery for local artists who create art for children and a colorful Alice in Wonderland mural

by Andy Sklar currently covers the back wall of the shop. Wee Soles also partners with Soles4Souls by hosting shoe drives and offering a discount to all customers who bring in gently worn pairs of shoes toward the effort. “And we always donate to all the school fundraisers as, between the three of us, our five kids are all at local public schools,” Carlson shares, noting that running a successful neighborhood kids’ shoe store is not always about pushing product. At Wee Soles it’s also about becoming a part of the community it serves. •

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3/20/13 12:13 PM

The charitable foundation of the footwear industry since 1939.

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PENSOLE Young Professionals Development CAPSOLES were created to inspire young professionals to increase their knowledge of design, the design process, materials and what it takes to become a future leader in the footwear industry.

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AGE

APPROPRIATE

From lovable animals to classics like the Mary Jane, brands look to revamp and expand their high-quality offerings for Fall ’13.

Yosi Samra: Elements of Ease In a competitive market where designers might feel pressured to bend to consumers’ every want and need so long as it results in a sale, designer Yosi Samra has stood his ground in traditional shoemaking by taking a unique—and more literal—approach to bendable footwear with his eponymous line of foldable ballet flats. Since 2009, Samra has carved a niche in the women’s market with moderately priced packable shoes that make traveling a breeze. “I launched the flats more as an online concept store and then it took off overnight,” he says.

That’s putting it lightly. In the first season, Samra sold three times the amount of pairs he anticipated (approximately 50-60,000) and the line drew buyers from the likes of Harvey Nichols and Piperlime right out of the gate. Sold in more than 85 countries, Samra has since opened branded stores in Saudi Arabia, Korea, Turkey and the Philippines.

The enthusiastic response to the women’s line and moms’ demand for girls’ styles, confirmed what Samra always believed: a children’s line was a no-brainer. “Our women’s customer likes a simple shoe that fits into all areas of the wardrobe and that is easy to wear. The same goes for kids,” the designer explains. He tested first run samples with his cousin’s 2-year-old daughter. “She was so excited to put on the shoes by herself and they were comfortable enough for her to run around the house,” Samra recalls.

The line in sizes 5C to 4Y launched for Holiday 2012 with a girls’ ballet flat modeled after the Classic in the women’s collection. Trendy retailers like Kitson of Los Angeles and Lester’s on the East Coast took a fancy to the collection’s metallic, leopard print, pink pony hair and black and white cap toe styles. Fall ’13 delivers a collection of ballet flats and Samra’s latest

additions—a bootie and an elastic loafer silhouette—both inline with the brand’s premise of ultra-flexible, fold-up footwear. “We’re using a lot of modern fabrics and textures,” Samra says of the leather line accented with croc, cap toes, glitter bows and heart studs. The autumn palette spans midnight blue and jewel tone Bordeaux to bright pink, which the designer reports does exceptionally well. “We did a study recently and pink was a top seller even in the women’s line,” he adds. Other styles marry leather with suede accents to show off the silhouette’s clean lines.

For now, Samra says the brand is staying true to how it launched and will continue to target specialty and high-end boutiques. “We get good attention at this level of retailers and we’ve managed to get great distribution,” he explains. —Angela Velasquez

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Zooligans: Animal House Additions

Evos: Back to So-Cal Cool The Chino, CA-based Evos, a division of CMerit, didn’t have to look far for inspiration. The West Coast, with its lively skate culture and relaxed lifestyle, provides an endless amount of inspiration for the young line focused on sneaker silhouettes for toddlers size 10 to 4 and boys’ 3 to 7 that blend street smarts with functional elements drawn from the legendary skate shoe houses.

“Kids on the West Coast are into skating, BMX riding and motocross and they like that look, too,” says Rolando Garcia, director of marketing. The shoes may never step on a half pipe but they are fully equipped for school and the playground. Styles that toe the line between hi- and lo-tops feature padding on the sidewalls that, Garcia notes, is designed to take a lot of abuse. Other popular styles include the Sidewalk Surfer, a toddler hi-top in cobalt blue and gray.

In terms of colors and fabrications, Garcia says the boys’ category is following in its men’s collection footsteps, which is becoming increasingly adventurous and more fashion-forward, but he adds that the company is careful to not go overboard. “Too much neon turns boys off,” he says, adding that they do a better business with gray and black uppers paired with blue, orange, lime green and even camouflage print soles—an Evos signature.

And where Gotta Flurt, the CMerit line geared for trendy girls, relishes embellishments, prints, color and sequins, Evos is focused on durable styles that can withstand boys’ action-packed days. “If we use canvas, it has to be really tough, heavy canvas. Vulcanized styles have great flexibility, but we’ve found that they wear out faster than cup soles, so we use cup soles,” Garcia explains. Other styles feature skater shoe hallmarks, like hidden eyelets that help protect laces, not to mention add a touch of skater coolness.

Garcia says boys might look up to an older brother or cousin for fashion cues, but he says there’s a prominent niche of kids, especially on the West Coast, that are into action sports, race car drivers and X-Games and as a result these influences are found in their fashion.

“Boys are really inspired by whatever they are watching,” he adds, noting that East Coast kids tend to look towards musicians.

“You won’t see a cowboy boot in the collection any time soon,” Garcia quips, but the lifestyle brand is preparing to expand the breadth of styles and may dabble in hiking in the future. In the meantime, thanks to consistent sell through at a mixture of children’s boutiques, DSW, Off Broadway Shoes and online, Evos is in development of building special collections for key partners and Spring ’14 will bring another point of inspiration: the Pacific. “We’re looking into more surf styles, lower profiles and casual, beach looks,” Garcia says. —A.V.

Koalas, monkeys and pandas—oh my! That’s the reaction Joel Rusnak has received to his line Zooligans from parents and children alike since its debut in Spring 2012.

Rusnak, formerly a design consultant, wanted to create a shoe that’s both functional and fun for kids. “Zooligans is really something that connects with kids and moms as well. It’s just a fun, playful product that is a little un-shoe like.

It’s not like other products out there; the shoes have a really strong personality,” he says.

The collection started with classic styles from Mary Janes to sandals, and for Fall ’13 is expanding to boots and soft-sole baby shoes. Other animals are also joining Zooligans’ menagerie, including ponies, dinosaurs and penguins. “Retailers are excited to have more product, more characters and to have year-round products,” Rusnak notes. He describes the leather-made shoes as “really flexible, soft and easy to put on and take off,” adding that they are made to stay on the foot and have a roomy toe box for growing feet.

The co-founder and designer of Zooligans believes that the brand’s success comes from its uniqueness, adding that retailers can profit from the line because it stands alone. “It doesn’t really compete with mainstream brands,” he says. “It’s something that they can add to their mix and it won’t take away from what they already have.” And it doesn’t hurt that children love the shoes and respond to the animals’ big eyes and wide smiles. “They really develop a bond with these shoes; they become their little friends that they wear on their feet— they go places with them, explore with them, and have adventures with these shoes,” Rusnak says. Each pair of shoes also comes in a “pet carrier” box that many children continue to use to cart around their pair of Zooligans or even a favorite toy.

Wholesale prices for the line range from $11.50 for the soft-sole footwear to $21.50 for the boot collection, and the footwear comes in sizes toddler 4 to 12 and youth 13 to 1. Rusnak plans on adding styles to accommodate various price points for Spring ’14 as well as more animals and silhouettes. “If you have something that is fresh, stands out, is well made and functions perfectly for what it is, there’s room for growth and success, and that’s what we’re doing,” he says.

“I have fun designing funny kids’ stuff.” —Maria Bouselli

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B.o.c. by Born: School Rules Little ladies will always want sparkle and boys love their kicks, but basic black or brown footwear is the skeleton key to every kid’s closet, especially if there’s a uniform requirement at school. (And take note: The average American youth spends 900 hours per year there.) With that in mind, comfort and quality go hand in hand in girls’ B.o.c. by Born school shoes, produced by BBC International.

It all starts with the brand’s signature Opanka construction where the uppers, sock linings and outsoles are hand-sewn together in a single process. Not only does this method make the shoes flexible, it also creates a natural cushioning effect. As a result, the under foot conforms and rebounds with every movement, providing a consistently comfortable environment for children’s feet.

“We see a constant demand for quality- and comfort-based footwear. That market never goes away and we’re seeing an increase in the younger audience,” says Debbie Ouellette, brand manager at BBC International, though she’s quick to note, “The challenge now is the 6- to 8-year-old girl who’s becoming more fashion savvy and having a lot more influence over her purchase.” And while fashion runways lately have been full of menswear-inspired oxfords and smoking slippers for women, the flat is falling out of favor with mini-fashionistas. But that’s not to say the company is shunning it completely: a leopard cap toe with scalloped edges offers a fun spin on the style. “Overall we’re seeing a downtrend in the ballerina business, which is an opportunity for us to grow our boots and booties,” Ouellette offers. “The money that parents previously allocated for flats is being redirected to vulcanized athletic sneakers and while we don’t do sneakers, we see the overall opportunity to grab and shift that redirection towards our boots.”

For Fall ’13 that means the Geneva, a western-inspired classic mid-calf boot with embroidery on the vamp and braiding and floral embellishment that stays true to the brand, and an update on its bestselling riding boot. Another addition is a short wedge Mary Jane with rosette appliqué on the toe. Available in both toddler and grade school sizes, the fall collection wholesales from $14 to $30. And when school’s out, B.o.c. offers a collection of fun-to-wear sandals with generously padded insoles. “We have a very strong spring sandal collection so our goal is to continue to grow that segment as well as our boot collection to complement the depth of the brand and increase the market presence each season,” she says. “Boots and sandals are where we’ve created a niche.” —Lyndsay McGregor

Stride Rite: Getting It Rite With 95 years of experience in making children’s footwear, Stride Rite knows a thing or two about fitting kids’ feet and keeping customers happy. “Stride Rite has an unparalleled reputation for quality, fit and service that keeps consumers coming back,” says Gillian Meek, vice president of product at Stride Rite, now a subsidiary of Wolverine Worldwide. “We are multi-generational and a rite of passage for those first steps, especially. Our service model focuses on education and provides consumers with a reason to return.”

For Fall ’13, the brand is expanding its assortment with boot silhouettes and new colors and prints.

Stride Rite is increasing its offering in the Made2Play collection with a hiking boot for boys and a Mary Jane for girls. “Now no matter the occasion, kids can be ready to play,”

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Primigi: Quality Control

Meek notes. The brand is also giving additional options for kids in its light-up shoes, with a Darth Vader light and sound shoe for boys and a Disney Wish Lights collection for girls that features shoes changing from white to pink every 2,000 steps. “We are also inspiring kids to get active by delivering lighted shoes that release a strobe light the faster you run,” she adds. According to Meek, the customer’s request for more fashion helped to push the designs for fall. “This fall we feel we have the ideal combination of innovation and style from baby through big kids and we are also winning with the additional energy our co-branded partnerships provide,” she says. Wholesale prices approximately run from $9.50 to $32 for sizes 0 to 8, $16.50 to $28.50 for sizes 8.5 to 12, and $16.50 to $32 in 12.5 to 5.

The brand, now a part of the Stride Rite Children’s Group (also includes Sperry Top-Sider, Keds, Jessica Simpson and Saucony brands) will continue to focus on innovation while staying true to its customers. “Our consumers—moms and kids—are at the center of everything we do, and all seasonal trend inspiration that we apply to the line filters through a consumer lens,” says Marc Loverin, senior design director at Stride Rite Children’s Group. Adds Dawn Phillips, group design director, “We strive for perfection. We have a passionate group of people dedicated to making ‘kid-rite’ footwear and we plan on growing and evolving in the years to come.” —M.B.

Bill LaRossa thinks things are starting to look up again. Coming off a successful round of fall market trade shows, the president of Primigi U.S.A. says he is “guardedly, cautiously, optimistic.” The economy is improving and so is the willingness of consumers to invest in quality footwear for the children.

Since launching stateside 16 years ago, Primigi has become synonymous with high-quality kids’ shoes in the premium tier.

Maintaining a tight grip on the European brand’s core values that made it a leader in the market has been no easy task amid the recession. Many consumers cut back wherever and whenever they could. They were forced to do with less or, worse, without. But that has taken a toll and, LaRossa says, has created a pent-up demand.

“People are tired of junk and they’re tired of paying a premium for poor quality, and I think that certainly bodes well for us and other companies that have kept their eye on the ball as far as quality goes,” he says, adding, “Product is king and we decided to not cut any corners.”

Known for classic Mary Jane and loafer silhouettes, Primigi is embracing an edgier look for Fall ’13 that includes playful takes on motorcycle and equestrian boots. The reason? Necessity. “We were definitely listening to our customers this season,” LaRossa says.

“We’ve never chased trends and we’ve never chased fashion but for fall we looked at what our designers came up with for the European market and brought some of that to this market.” He points to the smoking slipper as one example. “It’s something you can do in nice materials like sparkle and kids love it,” he says. “When we can produce something in that [trend] category that’s really well made and soft, people say, ‘Hey, this is worth spending a little bit more on.’”

A tale he’s heard all too often from buyers of late is that they feel they’re putting their hands in a lot of plastic shoes at the shows—an unfortunate byproduct of tough economic times. “Quality suffers and service suffers, and I think that’s what sets us apart. We have the same team we had five years ago and people like doing business with us.” LaRossa adds, “If you can show your customers that you understand the problems they’re going through and work with them to overcome them, it definitely resonates,” he says.

To that end Primigi continues to feature a broad selection that includes some price-sensitive options (SRP from $65 to $75) as well as sportswear and an expanded selection of its successful GoreTex licensed boots program. “We’re one of the only kids’ brands in the market with the Gore-Tex license—it’s hard to get and hard to keep,” LaRossa notes, adding the consistency in the line is another factor behind its success. “Given the way the economy has been in the past three years, anyone that has charted a steady course and has some of the hallmarks we have will do OK,” he says. “And now with a little assistance from the economy, we’re back on the path that we originally set out on.” —L.M.

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w h a t ’ s s e l l i n g k i ds ’

SHOOFLY Tribeca, NYC Located in Manhattan’s tony Tribeca neighborhood, Shoofly offers a rustic seaside escape in its 1,200-squarefoot space, complete with screen doors and weathered boxcar materials. Owner Roz Viemester (at right) wants her customers—especially her littlest customers—to feel right at home. “My store is a smorgasbord of shoes, and it’s all at children’s height so they can participate in the touchand-feel experience,” she says.

Shoofly’s target customer spans infants to 7 years olds and the selection must meet Viemester’s three criteria: fit, fashion and comfort. In addition, the mix features an array of accessories, including hats, and a small selection of baby apparel and gift items.

Going strong for 26 years, Shoofly made its mark as one of the first to sell European brands in the city, and the store has been committed to introducing fresh styles and brands ever since. “It’s all about discovering and making customers say, ‘Ooh, and ahh,’ and wanting to buy everything,” Viemester says.

—Maria Bouselli

Top-selling brands: Naturino, Tsukihoshi, Camper, Kickers, Old Soles and See Kai Run.

The good news is… At the tradeshows I [love] all the colors and manufacturers taking chances. The last couple years have been dull, dull, dull. There’s a little risk-taking going on, and I love to see that.

What makes your store unique? We’re not a normal shoe store and never wanted to be. I’m a stylist’s dream store. I’m eclectic.

I’m hoping you’ll find fabulous shoes, hats What’s the smartest thing you’ve done and accessories here that you won’t find in the past three months? I’ve rallied my elsewhere. A child can be wearing a mundane young staff to post on Instagram. We try to outfit and make himself post every day. Same or herself unique with for our website and one of our items. That Facebook page. It’s WHAT’S THE HOT SILO? The was my original intention more about drawing ballet flat has been really strong and and I’ve stayed true to it customers in. I want the desert boot by Naturino, for both ever since. them to come to our boys and girls. We offer it in a bunch store for the experience. of colors, and it looks cute with How’s business?

I want people to get dresses and leggings, and boys can Surprisingly good away from buying use it for dress up. for the past 25 years. online. A lot of parents The last two or three say it’s easy to buy years have been really online, but if you have unpredictable. [It’s] to send it all back, it been up and down and takes a lot of time. You sideways. But sales could have come here have been really good and been done in 45 of late—much better minutes to an hour. And than anticipated—so you receive really good yippee! fit expertise.

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What is the biggest challenge currently facing your business?

Online retailing—what customers have at their fingertips. They can check prices instantly, or if we don’t have a shoe in the color they want, they say, “Adios.” Also, just keeping up with the whole pace of life today. I just want to slow it down a little bit.

That’s what I can offer in my store—let’s have fun, sit on the floor, try on shoes and have some cookies and say, “hi,” to our pet guinea pigs. It’s about the whole physical experience.

IF YOU COULD CHANGE ONE THING IN THE PAST YEAR, WHAT WOULD IT BE? Sandy. I would have

diverted [Hurricane] Sandy.

I didn’t have electricity for 10 days. A lot of my customers had to evacuate.

And it was right around Halloween, which is such a neighborly holiday. There I was in front of my dark store handing out candy to the few kids who were still around. It just put a damper on things for the whole season.

What’s in for spring? Salt-Water Sandals are a no-brainer. They walk out by themselves. The Tsukihoshis run out of here too.

Are adult takedown styles becoming a more important part of your mix?

Absolutely. This trend has been going on since the ’80s—every little girl wanted to look like Madonna, and Footloose clothing downsized to 6-year-olds. Adults styles are where children’s line builders get inspiration. And once you scale it down, it’s really cute. Although, I’m not so crazy about seeing all that metal and studs, especially pointy ones, on kids. I don’t want my 4 year old to look Goth. You have to be very careful not to cross the line; you don’t want kids to grow up that fast.

WHAT ARE YOU TOPSELLING ACCESSORIES? I carry a lot of Dutch companies—I just like the color palette. Le Big and Claesen’s underwear, for example. For hair accessories, we use a lot of local people that make really unique headbands. And I carry a slew of hats; Delux, Peace of Cake and San Diego Hat Company do some great hats.

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WHAT’S THE BEST NEW LINE ADDED TO YOUR STORE’S MIX OF LATE? Pons Azarca—it’s a Spanish sandal. And I’m bringing in Clarks next fall, which I’m excited about.

How have parents changed most since the recession? The majority of my customers have the income. They aren’t holding back, except that they might buy closer to the season.

That said some customers see a $50 to $60 first walker and say they don’t spend that much on their shoes. But it comes down to 25 cents a day, so go without a latte. The importance of a well-made first walker is worth the investment.

The kids like… Color and sparkle. The girls go pink and purple and shiny and sparkle, and the boys definitely go right to yellow, bright red and turquoise. Parents often cringe, but I tell them that their kids have the rest of their lives to wear blue, brown and black.

Top priority: To increase sales and have a better handle on inventory. It’s constantly a challenge of getting a sense of what the heck you’ve got in your store. Also, I want to spread my wings a little bit. I dabbled with my own brand and it was a lot of fun, and I might revisit that again.

Is there a particular category or demographic that you will be focusing more attention on this year? I want to focus more on that first walker and prewalker because that’s where you gain [the customer’s] trust, and then you have them until they outgrow your store. And I’ve noticed that my customer now has an average of three kids—it used to be one or two. Families are getting bigger. There are a lot of babies that need shoes.

What is your most effective means of promotion? E-mail blasts. When it’s raining, we send a quick e-mail saying we’ve got a great selection of rain boots, and customers think, “Oh yeah, that’s where I need to get that.”

THE GLASS IS HALF… Full. As long as there are kids, they need to have shoes. I’ve seen the worst and I’ve survived. As I get older, I just say we’ll get through this—and we do.

I might be in here one day sitting in a rocker or using a walker, but I’m here to stay.

3/18/13 1:10 PM

TREND SPOTTING

Bearpaw

Hot & Cold Call it the mind over matter approach to winter fashion as pops of warm orange and all-over hot pink are heating up boys’ and girls’ cold weather boots.

And as winters become increasingly unpredictable, the season calls for a mix of materials—from waterproof rubber and cozy shearling to trendy neoprene—to counteract whatever Mother Nature has up her sleeve.

—Angela Velasquez

Western Chief

Lume

Ugg

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL

Muck Boot

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FOP_27 27

3/19/13 2:05:31 PM

TREND

Pediped

SPOTTING

Tsukihoshi

Good Sport Track and field legend Bruce Jenner might be better known amongst kids today as the “normal one” on Keeping Up With the Kardashians, but his colorful ’70s athletic look is influencing their footwear with old school silhouettes and sporty stripes. The retro styles are the ideal canvas for designers on a color kick, while Velcro straps ensure speedy dressing. —A.V.

Crocs

Josmo

With their rosy, chubby cheeks and playful garb it’s only natural that garden gnomes are the latest inspiration for design cues in kids’.

This season, brands are going Dutch by pairing the traditional silhouette with rubber soles, metallic leathers and fashionable star prints.

They may not be fit for the playground, but girls will be hard pressed to not break into a clog dance. —A.V.

Cape Clogs

Rachel Shoes

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL

Hot Dam

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terrex fast r mid gtx, courtesy of adidas

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3/19/13 2:05:37 PM

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Find out at outdoorretailer.com/FootwearPlus

THE EUROPEAN REPORT

Despite three days of snow on the heels of a German winter that saw a 30-day stretch without sunshine, reports out of the latest GDS show in Düsseldorf, Germany, hint at brighter days ahead. For the first time in several recession-scarred seasons, many Autumn/Winter ’13 collections of the 800plus exhibitors on hand featured plenty of fresh styles. Rather than relying on the same platform last or updating a classic riding boot, designers heeded consumers’ long-standing request for something new to buy. “You see more pointed, elegant shoe shapes. It’s a radical difference from last season,” says Kirstin Deutelmoser, show director. “We also had a nice mix of new designers that were small but offered great quality products.”

Other burgeoning trends included camouflage prints, sneaker boots and the mix of black with glam qualities. At the request of retailers, GDS also collaborated with the German accessory show DATE to incorporate 60 winter weather accessory and handbag exhibitors into the shoe mix. Brands with a diversified range of products, like SuperTrash’s floppy hats and quilted gloves and kids’ brand Easy Peasy’s old-school satchels, added to GDS’s overall feeling of newness. BY ANGELA VELASQUEZ

Floris Van Bommel Kappa

Sports Stars Catarina Martins

Western Union

Don’t expect a showdown between these two must-have trends. Short boots and western flair join forces for a range of fun footwear that spans styles with traditional western floral embroidery by the likes of Sendra to neon Day of the Deadinspired designs from Mexicana.

Other styles feature fringe and stars—gaucho motifs that are also inspiring handbag designs.

The compact silhouettes are jampacked with a lot of fashion and almost always come with a sloped heel.

Sneakers continue to dominate collections, but this time around instead of relying only on wedge heels to up the fashion ante, designers have their eye on classic lo-and hi-tops with menswear-inspired materials, distressed leathers and stud embellishments. Against a neutral color, like Kappa’s tan sneakers, star-shaped stud embellishments read chic. And with so many footwear styles in general covered in studs, you have to start wondering: Will we be writing about the Great Stud Shortage of 2013 next season?

Ash

Objects in Mirror Munich

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Lieutenant

3/20/13 9:24 AM

Magrit

Green Giant Marc

Conhpol

Black Magic

Downtown “It” girls, meet your shoes for fall—short black booties and stilettos. Topped off with tonal crystals, studs and lace insets, the subtle embellishments (and hints of skin) shine in the spotlight. To match, men’s designers are rethinking the basic black lace up by coating shoes with luminance black fur and patent leathers. On a more casual end, brands like Wirth and Apple of Eden are sprucing up black driving mocs and engineer boots with black sequins.

If you didn’t know Emerald was Pantone’s color of the year, you sure did after one spin around the show floor. The lush, renewing hue acts as a new neutral in many collections, joining burgundy and plum as popular alternatives to basic black and brown. Just as in nature, green comes in many shapes and forms. Standouts include a perforated bootie from French Connection, a velvet engineer boot

by Catarina Martins and CallagHan’s bottle green patent monk strap with a patent cap toe to match.

Shapeshifters

Högl

Jeffrey Campbell

United Nude

Imaginations run wild with boxy ankle boots by avant-garde labels like United Nude and Jeffrey Campbell.

The eccentric styles are business in the front with oxford and peep-toes shapes as mainstays, but the back is all party with architectural, gravitydefying heel shapes that are further embellished with studs.

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Vow to Wow

Monk straps are not your father’s shoes anymore. (Unless your father is a biker stud-wearing, patent leather loving dapper man that can’t resist a sharp boot on the weekends.) Designers are making monk straps snappier than ever by turning the staple into a blank canvas for wild whims. And having cinched a place in men’s closets, the classic is following in the footsteps of its bedfellows, the brogue and the loafer, by appealing to women. Rockport’s quench of allover rich cranberry hues prettifies the masculine silhouette.

Razzle Dazzle

Yes, there are sequins and satin and the occasional plume of theatrical feathers, but don’t confuse these stilettos with showgirl fashion (not that there’s anything wrong with that).

After seasons of evening footwear that leaned towards simple color blocking and heavy platforms (which still permeate the category), designers are revisiting old Hollywood glamour with slimmer heels, single soles and jewel tones that evoke film noir’s play on shadow and light.

Marc Belmondo

Jean-Michel Cazabat Munich

Military Ranks

Stuart Weitzman

Bottero

It is highly unlikely that you will go unnoticed in these camouflage wares. Less surplus and more designer boutique, the very literal approach to the ever-looming military trend is gaining ground in men’s and women’s, spanning desert boots to sandals and clogs.

Attention-getters include camo-printed pony hair and fur. On others, the print peeks through a blanket of studs. The look also complements athletic hi-top styles destined for the urban jungle.

Magrit Ash

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Short Sale

Short and to the point, this season’s assortment of anklegrazing boots turn a sharp look with smooth finishes, buttery soft leathers and rich colors. The straightforward silhouette pulls off a number of trends—from Bottero’s sporty ankle biters with a striped sole to styles with brushed metallic and prismlike leathers—but in solid jewel tones and black, the shoe joins the ranks of the ballet flat, loafer and riding boots as a sophisticated basic for every closet.

EARLY BIRD SPECIAL

Marga Indra Heide of trend forecasting firm Modeurop, gave the early read on Spring ’14 trends, colors and styles.

Back to Basics

Caprice Bottero Paco Gil

Wirth

Prism Break

Nat-2

Sci-fi fashion never looked so cool.

Designers’ undying love for metallic is reaching another level as leather treatments take a hi-tech turn that transforms a basic gold or silver shoe into a high gloss, mirror-like creature from another planet.

The intense effect looks best on casual, familiar silhouettes like oxfords, loafers and slimmed down combat boots.

When the effect is used on black, it’s a look as slick and rich as oil.

Predicting that consumers will be “fed up of studs,” the forecasting firm believes there will be a demand for basics in a straightforward color palette of black, white and red. Clean, pure and minimal— the trend calls for a blend of Scandinavianand Japanese-inspired designs that act as a frame for contrasting stripe, chevron and geometric prints. The look comes to life with pops of ultra-reflective metallic that Indra Heide says will dominate the season.

Art Appreciation Likely to be a hit with more mainstream markets, this theme delivers color by way of floral, butterfly, digital and familiar prints that are blown up or minimized to unrecognizable proportions. Yellow, pink, red and violet are the main colors, but a heavy dose of black and white tames the bold look, as do slimmer silhouettes like the court shoe. Expect to see more foil leathers in color—something that technology hasn’t allowed in previous seasons—and vinyl and other transparent materials.

World Spirit

Paco Gil

Made for globetrotters, this trend is strongest in men’s with informal desert boots and sneakers decked out in reddish brown, green and gold croc, snake, braided leather and, yes, more camouflage. For women, the look opens the door for animal motifs other than leopard print.

Embroideries and prints of marine animals like dolphins and turtles dot the radar, as do gilded lion head ornaments on ballet flats and smoking slippers. —A.V. 2013 april/may • footwearplusmagazine.com 33

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P I N T - S I Z E P E R S O NA L I T I E S S P O RT F RO N T ROW - WO RT H Y L O O K S F O R FA L L .

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Hannah and Cece Winthrop Feared and revered across the world, the legendary editor in chief of Couture has made as many careers as she has broken them and is notorious for sending designers back to their mothers for a cuddle.

In fact, the journalism-school dropout hasn’t cracked a smile since a Fall ’06 OshKosh B’gosh collection that paid homage to her single weakness, calico kittens. Back at the office, Hannah keeps a rigid schedule of line edits, previews, edit meetings and a mid-day nap—her staff’s only opportunity to sneak out for an extremely light lunch.

After having policies regarding nepotism edited from the company handbook, rumors of her retirement loom as the editrix has begun to allow her protégé, Cece, out in public.

Left to right: Yosi Samra flats, Ralph Lauren trench coat, Trimfit tights, Burberry headband, Chanel purse.

Melissa polka dot flats, Ralph Lauren khaki trench, Jefferies tights, stylist’s sunglasses.

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Elk Monroe and Willow Wilson Inspired by childhood nightmares like the Boogie Man, the dark and photo ops with the shopping mall Santa Claus, the designing duo took the industry by storm with their debut collection of edgy gowns that landed a slew of avant-garde editorials. To keep their creativity “pure,” they declined Hamish Bowles’ request for a Vogue profile—which infamously resulted in a year-long ban from the publication—and in 2012 they turned down the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Award in protest against the industry’s use of fur. Little is known about the designers except both speak with British accents despite having grown up in Connecticut.

Left to right: Primigi studded hi-tops, Truly Scrumptious tee, leggings and tulle skirt by Old Navy, necklace by Claire’s.

Kensie Girl studded combat boots, blazer

by La Miniatura, Stella McCartney Kids tank, leggings by La Loi.

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Finn Bennett Since shooting his controversial American Apparel campaign in the privacy of his Los Angeles bachelor pad, the lothario photographer—nicknamed “Napoleon” for turning each gig into a conquest—has been linked to every Victoria’s Secret model to grace the catwalk in recent memory. But Finn’s roaming eye and kiss-and-tell antics have landed him in hot water with each of them. Ever since an unnamed Disney actress revealed to Page Six that he naps with a blankie, Finn hasn’t been seen in public and is said to be seeking guidance from recovering modelizer, John Mayer.

Palladium canvas boots, Scotch Shrunk tee, La Miniatura vest and jeans, Children’s Place fedora, stylist’s cuff and socks.

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Bailey Montgomery

Minnetonka moccasins, Tumble ’N Dry tunic, tights by Jefferies, glasses by Very French Gangsters.

As the recipient of the “Best Dressed” superlative in school, Bailey left the Midwest to pursue her big city dreams of becoming a fashion designer for Mattel’s Barbie division, but her demanding internship with an infamously tan women’s designer has the Parson’s sophomore reconsidering her future and the state of humanity. To release her pent-up frustration, she’s taken an active role in her campus’ support group for overworked, unpaid and underappreciated fashion interns and has cut a deal with the local Starbucks barista to replace said designer’s Venti Skinny Vanilla Lattes with half-and-half milk.

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Natalie Carr and Molly Chung Since meeting at Coachella during a trip sponsored by a designer denim brand, the fashion bloggers became best friends and now roomies having recently moved into a shabby chic apartment off Bowery. Lauded for their perfectly disheveled bohemian flair, the bloggers say their nabe’s cobblestone streets are the perfect backdrops for pictorials of their outfits—a mix of vintage finds and freebies from events—which they post to their blog. Natalie is typically photographed while strumming her guitar on a stoop, while Molly is known for her wistful gaze.

They fund their Organic Avenue addiction by selling unwanted, free clothes on eBay.

Left to right: Ralph Lauren knit boots, Lands’ End chunky knit sweater, tulle skirt by Tutu Du Monde, SpiritHoods necklace, bag by Lucky, stylist’s feathers. Pazitos boots, Stella McCartney Kids dress and cardigan, Pale Cloud belt worn as a headband, BabyLegs legwarmers, bracelet by A.Bird.

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Marcus Davis and Gemma Star a.k.a DJs Terrible Twos The former band geeks turned Lower East Side party king and queen got their big break in the industry while spinning at a Sony Music exec’s son’s Bar Mitzvah. Marcus and Gemma’s unique blend of pop hits and soulful funk give even the most rhythm-less models something to strut to and is a must-have for any designer who wants Rihanna to attend the after party.

Since Jay-Z gave them a shout out at his New Year’s Eve concert at the Barclays Center, endorsement deals are pouring in. As the fresh-faced brand ambassadors for a new bubblegum-flavored energy drink, the night owls rarely make their bedtimes.

Left to right: K-Swiss sneakers, T-shirt by Stella McCartney Kids, La Miniatura camo jacket and shorts, zebra socks by Happy Socks, Nineteen 47 baseball cap. Fila hi-top sneakers, layered tee by Heart N Crush, Anne Kurris skirt, TicTacToe tights, Rubbs bracelet, boombox necklace by 100% Gumdrop.

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The Socialite Georgina Bancroft The Upper East Side “It” girl is a natural at public relations. Having split her childhood between Paris and New York, the goddaughter of Valentino and one of Zac Posen’s charges during his babysitting career, Georgina has hobnobbed with an elite circle of daughters and sons of designers, models, politicians and rock stars from an early age. Unfazed by celebrity or wealth—she prefers shopping excursions with her Maltipoo Muffy to the flashing bulbs of paparazzi—the socialite is best known for organizing the Annual Pony Fashion Show at the Bridgehampton Polo grounds, which kicks off the summer party season in the Hamptons and raises funds for horses to get Brazilian Keratin treatments.

Hush Puppies glitter flats, dress by I Pinco Pallino, Trimfit glitter tights, stylist’s necklace.

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Olga Petrossian With a generous stipend from her caviar tycoon father, the Russian heiress globetrots to each fashion week and is often spotted front row next to whichever starlet the designer may be courting that season. Not one to stay at luxury hotels, Olga made headlines last year by purchasing the most expensive apartments New York, London, Paris and Milan had to offer and installed gilded refrigerators chilled at a perfect 28 degrees for her caviar. Although she was groomed to be the next star of the Russian ballet, Olga refused to give up her 1.75-ounces-ofcaviar-a-day habit and is now in talks with La Mer to develop a caviar-based age defying cream.

Michael Kors wedge sneakers, Fendi ribbonembellished top, Marni cape, metallic polka dot pants by La Stupenderia.

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FASH ION E DITOR : AN G ELA V ELASQU EZ ; H AIR A ND M AKE UP : JSTE RLIN G; H AI R AN D M AKE UP ASS I STANT: B RI ANA MI RZO ; W RI T T E N BY ANG E LA VE LASQUE Z .

Wyatt Saxon and Quinn Belvedere Since bonding over a shared adoration for their prep school navy blazer—and insisting on wearing it even on weekends— Wyatt and Quinn have become Hollywood’s go-to fashion stylists and stars of their own hit Bravo reality show The Refined World of Wyatt and Quinn. Now that red carpet season is over—with many of their clients making it onto Best Dressed lists—the duo is trying their own hands at design with a line of men’s cashmere socks sold exclusively through HSN because as Quinn has said, “Even regular people should have fancy socks.”

Left to right: Sperry Top-Sider laceless sneakers, Andy and Evan vest, rugby shirt and pants, stylist’s glasses. Lacoste hi-top sneakers, blazer by Bleu Comme Gris, Andy and Evan gingham shirt and tie, Eddie Penn pants.

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Sperry Top-Sider

Bugatchi

D E S I G N E R C H AT : ARTOLA

Kicks Stand

7 For All Mankind

Ecco

Fine leathers sharpen men’s casual sneakers.

immersed in the creative process from inspiration to colors to materials to the final aesthetic.”

As for Grib, Artola says, “She comes from a buying and merchandising background and executes the business side—negotiating costs and deliveries and heading the marketing. The entire process is a complete joint effort and we rarely make decisions without consulting with each other first.” —Angela Velasquez What shoes are getting the most wear of late?

Olga: Being pregnant through the winter, Ugg [boots] were the only thing that I could wear all day, especially with running after our 2 year old.

It’s the complete opposite of what I usually wear. If it’s not at least a 3-inch heel, it’s not in my closet.

Jury: Artola. I wear test all of our styles to make sure they meet our quality and comfort standards.

Which designers do you admire? Olga: Having worked at Kenneth Cole for more than five years,

E DI TO R’S P I CKS

I admire what he has been able to accomplish, both as a designer and using the company as a platform for socially conscious advertising. It’s an inspiration of where we want Artola to be one day. Jury: I admire John Varvatos for what he has accomplished in such a short time.

If you could change one thing about the shoe business... Olga: It’d be educating customers about quality and materials. We use all-leather uppers and linings but an average person can’t tell the difference between PU and leather. Jury: Moving delivery dates forward by at least a month to be closer to season. Who buys sandals in the middle of winter, or boots in the summer?

If you weren’t a shoe designer, then what? Olga: Musician. I’m a classically trained pianist. Jury: I wanted to be a shoe designer since I was 12 years old. Anything else wasn’t an option. In fact, I still have my “polite” rejection letter from Nike.

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

A LOT HAS changed since Jury Artola sent Nike his sketches 20 years ago in response to a design job ad when he was just 14 years old. For starters, Artola met his wife, fellow F.I.T. graduate and business partner Olga Grib, when they embarked on footwear careers at Frye and Kenneth Cole, then launched Artola out of Mexico in 2010 and welcomed their second baby this year. Busy living life, the duo has carved out an edgy niche in the men’s market with a line that reads like a love letter to New York’s eclectic and colorful neighborhoods.

“Our collections incorporate the art and color we see in our everyday lives, like the graffiti or a mural on a brick wall in Brooklyn, or colorful townhouses in the East Village,” Grib explains. “All is incorporated into our design elements—color and fun, novelty details,” she adds. For Fall ’13 the design duo is taking its boldest step with leather hi-tops featuring metallic cap toes, sneakers with leopard print insets, loafers and chukkas with digital patterns, and sleek lace-ups in solid colors that span black to brick red. “We’ve become more comfortable in knowing what our customer wants,” Artola says.

Artola and Grib envision innumerable possibilities for their designs, including the addition of women’s and kids’ styles to possibly clothing one day. But that hasn’t deterred them from their original focus: making handcrafted shoes at affordable prices.

Artola chose Mexico not only because he is a Nicaragua-native and fluent in Spanish, but because the factories make high quality shoes at affordable prices (wholesale range is $70 to $102). “Best of all, there are no duties due to the NAFTA agreement,” he says.

Like any good marriage, it helps that there’s a balance of creativity and profitability.

“Jury is a true designer,” Grib notes. “He is

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O&A

continued from page 15

away completely. First of all, women like to shop—they like to touch, feel and see the merchandise. It’s like men preferring to go to the actual game as opposed to watching it on TV. They’ll say, “I really just want to see it.”

But that rule doesn’t apply for every little outfit you’re going to buy. There are some things where, with the click of a button, it’s here in two days and that’s wonderful.

Is BBC having any issues with sourcing?

It’s getting more challenging every year—pricing in China, restrictive substance standards and meeting compliance needs for all our customers. It’s becoming stricter and stricter so that affects price as well. So we’re always looking for potential new sourcing partners. Bob, in particular, is always seeking out new areas to make kids’ shoes, but China is still the mainstay for us at the moment. We just moved four hours north about six months ago. This is our second move now within China. [We were] in an area that’s finally got some good hotels, some decent restaurants and a Starbucks; then we move four hours north and there’s nothing. What can you do.

What is the biggest challenge for BBC right now?

The biggest challenge is sourcing and meeting compliance. On the flipside, there are tremendous growth opportunities in emerging markets around the globe. Look at the China, India and Russia markets—those are huge. And they’re growing at such a fast rate and they are building better-grade malls.

The opportunity for BBC to expand internationally is tremendous.

What do you love about your job?

I love the challenge. Everyday there’s always a new challenge and there’s always an opportunity to be creative. I also love that it’s fast-paced and there’s a lot of good energy. I also love working with people—all of these aspects drive me.

What is it about working with Bob Campbell, in particular, that you enjoy most?

First, he’s an industry icon. He’s so passionate about the business, his company and his employees, and his commitment to it all is endless. I always tell people who are going to work with Bob that you need to be prepared for it being extremely fast-paced and you need to be super flexible. You need to be able to move on a dime with him. Today we could be talking about sourcing in China and tomorrow it’s about how he found a new brand and we’re diving into that. You never know what might happen next. It’s really just this tremendous entrepreneurial spirit he has.

What’s the best career lesson he has taught you?

Bob treats everyone in the company like they are a part of his own family and he’s just a super-compassionate human being. He also treats every employee with great respect and like they are peers. It’s how I learned to manage people. It’s a wonderful trait where it doesn’t matter where you stand in the company, he’s always willing to sit down and listen to your ideas. •

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UPCL OSE CO M FO RT

Boots on the Ground OluKai moves from surf to sidewalk and beyond.

Up to Dress Code Rockport continues its 40-plus years legacy of wearable product innovation.

IN THE NEVER-ENDING search for shoes that are truly comfortable and stylish, Rockport is once again pushing the envelope for Fall ’13, offering a collection of soft-fitting shoes made with lightweight stability in styles that don’t make you look like one of the Twelve Apostles.

Specifically, the Adidas-owned subsidiary is expanding its lightweight offering with Total Motion, a collection for men and women that fuses stylish uppers with the parent company’s proprietary sports technology. Dani Tschuemperlin, chief marketing officer, claims the collection delivers all-day comfort for the metropolitan professional who is on the go from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. and beyond. “It 100 percent fits what we are as a brand because we have this element of comfort which is coming from technology and on the other side the product looks really good, delivering modern comfort as we want to deliver it as a brand,” he says.

An ultra-thin Total Motion plate in the outsole provides lightweight stability and controlled flexibility where needed, while Adiprene cushioning provides comfort and shock absorption. “We design for style and engineer for comfort,” Tschuemperlin explains, noting the suggested retail price range is $140 to $210. Rockport will initially launch three styles for men and six in women’s.

Available in both leather and suede options, the men’s collection consists of a traditional Chelsea dress boot, a slip-on loafer and a wingtip in a palette of black, gray, bitter chocolate and British tan.

The women’s assortment comes in five colorways and includes a mid-calf bootie, a 60-mm wedge pump, a 60-mm tall wedge boot and a 75-mm round toe heel, each designed with comfort features specific to that silhouette.

Last year Rockport’s much-lauded launch of Truwalk Zero saw a German performance artist suspending people in mid-air in Midtown Manhattan to illustrate how lightweight the shoes were, and Tschuemperlin reveals something equally as imaginative is in the cards for the Total Motion launch. “Shoes are one thing but how to launch them in an integrated way is another thing,” he says, adding, “People have to experience them in order to buy them because it’s difficult to imagine this feeling if you just see an ad.” Stay tuned. —Lyndsay McGregor

BORN OUT OF Hawaiianbred founder Bill Worthington’s wave-chasing way of life, OluKai (which roughly translates to “comfort ocean”) launched in 2005 as a flip-flop brand that incorporated core comfort and it quickly garnered shelf space in surf shops and luxury boutiques alike. For Fall ’13, the Irvine, CA-based brand continues to stretch its reach beyond the beach by expanding its closed-toe offering with wedges, slip-ons and laceups and putting a particular emphasis on boots.

Each boot features removable, washable footbeds that cup the heels, provide anatomical arch support and allow the toes to spread out.

“Our consumers can’t wear sandals all the time, whether at work or in inclement weather,” says Kerry Konrady, marketing director. “But the consumer had this passionate association with

our brand and really wanted to have that OluKai spirit, so it was a natural demand to capture the DNA of the sandal and translate it to boots.”

Pull-up leather, crushed vintage suede and signature hand stitching can be seen throughout the fall collection, and the suggested retail price ranges from $180 to $300.

Standouts include the Holo Lio II (“to ride horseback”), the brand’s take on an equestrian boot, featuring supple and distressed full-grain leather with a suede accent underlay and lined with soft pigskin.

The Pa’ia (named after a town on Maui’s North Shore) is a pull-on style made with naturally weather-resistant leathers and accented with straps and press cast metal buckles.

“The leathers were hand selected for both the men’s and women’s boot collections,” Konrady notes, explaining that with wear and over time, OluKai leather develops a rich patina—unique accents that make every pair one-of-akind. And OluKai only works with environmentally friendly tanneries that use ISO certified leathers. “In anything we do we strive to be authentic. It’s what drives us,” Konrady says.

“That’s what true premium brands do—they lead and they innovate.” —L.M.

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Born Again Trask re-enters the market and adds a women’s collection to its lineup.

BOUGHT BY NASHVILLE, TN-based Genesco Branded Group two years ago, the new-and-improved H.S. Trask re-launches for Fall ’13 as Trask, featuring a premium line of footwear, leather goods and accessories for men and women—all made from handselected hides. “When we decided to do this we knew there was space out there in the marketplace to use some unusual materials and take this vision of outdoors and authenticity, Americana and independence, and really make it special,” says Jon Caplan, president of Genesco Branded Group.

Inspired by the spirit of the west and the brand’s 20-year heritage, Trask’s “secret sauce” is the integrity and uniqueness of materials and craftsmanship. “When we decided to elevate the brand and try to make it even more special we were really intrigued by what the Horween leather company in Chicago had been doing with cowhide,” Caplan says, explaining that the tanning process for Horween Chromoexcel takes 89 steps and spans 28 working days, stuffing natural oils and greases into the leather to give it a really supple, high-quality feel. “No one had done it in bison so when we decided to re-launch the brand we asked if they would try it.”

From there the company added full latex rubber outsoles from France and proven comfort midsole technologies to bow an update on the Gallatin, one of the brand’s original styles, as a casual hiker and the foundation of the new men’s collection, which spans plain toe oxfords to handsewn chukkas and boots.

On the women’s side, flats and western-inspired boots are made from the softest African lambskin and elk, while wool panels add textural interest to menswear-inspired saddle shoes.

Wholesale prices range from $70 to $225, though a limited-edition, U.S.made Reserve collection will retail up to $500. “We’re aiming this at premium distribution because it’s so important that the product is sold at places that can really tell that story,” Caplan insists.

After successful showings at Outdoor Retailer and FN Platform, Trask will hit select shelves in September. “At OR we had a lot of people come by who remembered the original H.S. Trask from 20 years ago, and we had a lot of young people who had never heard of the brand but loved the shoes. The product really transcends age group and it’s more about lifestyle and state of mind,” Caplan says, adding that the line is meant to go with relaxed apparel like denim. “You can dress it up, but the DNA of the brand is more into the time when you’re having fun and doing what you want to do,” he says. —L.M.

Get Out Ecco expands BIOM outdoor range for fall.

COMING OFF A successful spring sell-in of its BIOM Hike and BIOM Terrain Sandal, which incorporate Ecco’s proprietary natural motion design to enhance comfort and keep feet closer to the ground for better control, the brand is expanding its outdoor offering for Fall ’13.

Additions include the BIOM Terrain Boot, a sleeker and lighter version of its award-winning Hike; the BIOM Grip, a collection of extremely light boots, sneakers and mocs; and the even lighter weight BIOM Lite range of sneakers and a Mary Jane. For trail runners, the BIOM Ultra features a slim and flexible sole that increases agility and offers better ground penetration. And for those who just want the outdoor look, Ecco unveils its Urban Lifestyle collection of boots and shoes ideal for a walk in the park or watching the kids at soccer practice.

“Feedback from buyers at the Outdoor Retailer show was strong,” says Erik Walcott, general sales manager for Ecco Performance. “They like the vibrant outsole colors and the pop on the laces (Terrain Boot), and believe the line will stand out on the shoe wall.” The sentiment was backed up at the recent ISPO show in Munich, Germany, where the Terrain Boot was named as best overall product in the apparel and footwear category by the Scandinavian Outdoor Group.

Walcott reports the BIOM outdoor collection expects to be given a broader assortment in R.E.I. stores this fall as well as in other leading retailers, like Cabela’s and Bass Pro Shops, and specialty shops. Ecco has also become a vendor partner of the Grassroots Outdoor Alliance, which consists of approximately 40 specialty retailers primarily based in the Southeast. “We expect our presence in outdoor stores will grow by leaps and bounds in the coming seasons,” Walcott says. “Our lightweight and multi-purpose designs as well as the incorporation of fresh colors appeals to a younger generation of consumers as well.” —Greg Dutter

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LAST WORD

G O O D V I BR ATI O NS

Put Your Records On

Clarks Originals celebrates Record Store Day with vinyl collection.

THERE’S JUST SOMETHING about vinyl records that holds a certain mystique to millions the world over, especially for those who remember going to the local record store to pick up that album all the kids in school were buzzing about. Flipping through the record bins in these independent stores—posters of the hottest bands covering the walls, a stereo cranking out tunes, incense candles casting a familiar aroma and some long-haired wannabe rock star working behind the counter only too willing to recommend a record from some obscure band that no one has yet heard about—was a full-on sensory shopping experience. Forget about vinyl records’ warm sound, shopping in these stores was a rite of passage growing up in the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s. And albums purchased there have often been held onto like works of art, passed down from older brothers to younger sisters, generation to generation.

Marijke Bruggink, head designer at Clarks Originals, still remembers the day when she was about 7 years old in a grocery store in her home country of Holland when she bought her first record album. “It was a Beatles record,” she says. “They were already famous then, but I loved it.” Today, she’s still a Beatles fan, and continues to connect with vinyl records—new and old—and the independent retailers that sell them.

“Playing a record is something special. It’s not only about the music, but it’s also about the packaging and the scene that you want to belong to,” she notes.

In celebration of vinyl records and those independent stores that continue to sell them, Clarks Originals is introducing a limitededition Desert Boot vinyl collection to commemorate Record Store Day 2013 (April 20). “Record Store Day is something that we want to support; we’re big vinyl lovers, go to gigs a lot and support these little

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independents so that they can keep on going,” Bruggink maintains.

Clarks Originals chose its Desert Boot because of its iconic status, and the fact that it’s been around for approximately 62 years—about as long as vinyl records. “For us it’s really like a blank canvas,” Bruggink says of the silhouette. “So we looked for a special material that has an almost vinyl feel with that matte, shiny look for these boots.” The collection features stitching detail and comes in a variety of colors, including hot pink, black, electric blue and an all-over record pattern.

As part of this month’s promotion, Clarks Originals is also partnering with Best Coast, a Southern Californian surf-rock duo who will be featured in a film about producing its limited-edition vinyl record, which hits shelves, appropriately enough, on Record Store Day. The band will also perform a concert at a participating store in Los Angeles that will be live-streamed on clarksoriginals.com. “We’re always looking out for those upcoming bands or record shops to support,” Bruggink says, noting that music is a key tie-in for Clarks Originals. “We work with all kinds of charities in the music business, providing studio space for [artists] or supporting up-and-coming bands in England,” she adds.

As for the resurging interest in vinyl records as well as the Desert Boot (the company reports 1.7 million pairs sold in the last five years alone), Bruggink believes it has to do with consumers craving authenticity.

“People are really looking for authentic, honest product, and that nicely links records with Clarks Originals,” she says. —Maria Bouselli

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