Footwear Plus | February 2024

FEBRUARY 2024

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VOL 34 • ISSUE 2 • $10

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FEBRUARY 2024

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TREND TRACKER FALL/WINTER ’24 ROUNDUP

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F E B R U A RY 2 0 2 4

EDITORIAL Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors Kathleen O’Reilly Fashion Editor Rosemary O’Connell Art Director Kathy Passero Editor at Large Mariah Walker Style Director Ann Loynd Burton Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING Noelle Heffernan Publisher

Clockwise from left: All Black, Biza, Xero Shoes, 4ccccees.

PA G E

40

Lizette Chin SVP/Group Publisher Laurie Guptill Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director Catherine Rosario Office Manager

F E AT U R E S

D E PA RT M E N T S

12 The Race is On! Gary Champion, president of Clarks Americas, on regaining its comfort lifestyle title status.

By Greg Dutter

4 Editor’s Note

18 Fall/Winter ’24 Preview Key trends in men’s and women’s.

By Kathleen O’Reilly 36 Dream Big Garrett Breton, owner of Comfort One Shoes, lays out an aggressive strategy for further expansion and growth.

By Greg Dutter

On cover: patent Mary Janes by Bos. & Co.

40 There’s Something About Mary Janes De rigueur for the red carpet and on point for the book club, the timeless silhouette is having a moment (again).

By Kathleen O’Reilly

Mike Hoff Digital Director WAINSCOT MEDIA

6 This Just In: Paris Chill

Carroll Dowden Chairman

8 Scene & Heard

Mark Dowden President & CEO

52 A Note to My Younger Self

Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO

54 Shoe Salon 56 Last Shot

OFFICES ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Michael Macko; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; model: Lydia Wilson/Supreme Management; hair and makeup: Irina Charkova/Next Artists; stylist assistant: Eileen Viglietta; photo assistant: Edward Cataldo.

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FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, PO Box 300, Lincolnshire, IL 60069-0300. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.

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E D I TOR’S NOT E

BIG PICTURE

Do the Evolution HISTORY IS RIFE with examples of failure to evolve, leading to irrelevance or, worse, extinction. Two notable ones that come to mind, thanks to two very interesting films I’ve seen recently, are Blockbuster and BlackBerry.

The Last Blockbuster is a quirky and nostalgialaden documentary about how the video chain once ruled the rental market nationwide, only to dwindle to a single holdout, in Bend, OR, over the span of a decade. It’s an epic rewind, for sure.

Meanwhile, BlackBerry uses the “based on a true story” format and is filmed much like a documentary. It tells the now familiar story of a tech unicorn’s fall from grace, complete with visionary nerds, greedy Gordan Gekko types, and off-the-hook blunders. Though the movie makes it seem like BlackBerry originated this now well-worn Silicon Valley storyline, the company was actually a Canadian startup. While Blockbuster and BlackBerry were quite different, their reasons for failure were strikingly similar.

At Blockbuster’s peak during the ’90s, the chain operated more than 9,000 locations, employed over 84,000 people, and boasted annual sales a tick under $6 billion. It was a home entertainment institution that saw millions of Americans make weekly pilgrimages to their local outlet to rent (and return) movies and video games, as well as purchase overpriced snacks. The stores served as de facto community centers that attracted all ilk. They were also first jobs for countless future doctors, lawyers, directors, and such. Above all, Blockbuster stores were a happy place offering a sea of entertainment options amid inviting bright blue/yellow decor and an intoxicating popcorn aroma. What could go wrong?

Enter Netflix in 2000. The by-mail rental company with a no-latefees hook was getting off the ground. When the dot-com bubble burst, Netflix was in desperate need of a cash infusion. The company pitched Blockbuster on a sale that would allow it to handle the online business while Blockbuster managed the brick-and-mortar stores. The price tag: $50 million. Blockbuster’s board poo-pooed the pitch. In its now historic arrogance and misjudgment, the chain failed to see the market evolution (streaming) on the immediate horizon. Currently, Netflix has a market cap of around $240 billion and is the world’s 42nd most valuable company. Blockbuster filed for bankruptcy in 2010.

Meanwhile, BlackBerry, which debuted in 1999, invented the smartphone market. At its peak, it had 50 percent of the U.S. market share and 20 percent of the global market share. Its customer base, like Blockbuster’s, spanned all ages and demographics. It was a status symbol like a Rolex watch, not to mention an addictive device. Hence, its nickname: “CrackBerry.” In 2008, its value peaked at about $85 billion. Again, what could go wrong?

As the film entertainingly portrays, BlackBerry’s demise stemmed from its failure to evolve. In 2007, Apple delivered its first iPhone, a revolutionary touch screen alternative and all-in-one device (phone, camera, iPod, etc.) packaged in a sleek modern design. It has since become the ultimate accessory with releases of its latest versions on the level of Beatlemania. Apple’s current valuation: $3 trillion, ranking it as the world’s most valued company. BlackBerry is worth $1.7 billion. Like Blockbuster, BlackBerry’s board failed to take Apple’s innovation seriously. Its fall from grace has become a classic case study in corporate mismanagement.

These two movies really stuck with me. (For the record, I watch a lot of movies.) Starting any business is tough. I admire anyone with the dreams (some say delusions), skills, passion, and sheer determination to try to make it a reality. Without entrepreneurs, we are nowhere as a society. Even more, I admire those who continually find ways to adapt and evolve to keep their dreams-turned-startups relevant decades later. Staying in business, as many executives have told me over the years, is really hard. You can’t stand pat. You need eyes in the back of your head while always scanning the horizon. You must be wary of complacency, which can spread like cancer. And arrogance is like a fast-moving virus. It can be lethal. You must stay humble and open to new ideas. Blockbuster and BlackBerry’s boards did neither, and it proved to be their Achilles’ heel.

Having had a front row seat to this industry for decades, I’ve reported on a Blockbuster-store-like catalog of script-worthy tales.

They are filled with stars, bit players, and some real characters. They are rich in drama, intrigue, inspiration, humor, innovation...all the ingredients you need for a great story. The two latest entries are this issue’s Q&A with Clarks Americas President Gary Champion (p. 12) and our retail profile of Garrett Breton, owner of Comfort One Shoes (p. 36). Both are exemplars of refusal to rest on their laurels. They are movers, shakers, and survivors. Both stories are replete with adversity and determination to overcome whatever obstacles arise to ensure that their companies succeed. They never stand still. Both are also genuine good guys who believe they would be nothing without the support of their prized teams. They are not arrogant.

It’s little wonder that Champion and Breton’s story arcs span decades and have many great scenes still to come. They are like feelgood movies. I hope you enjoy them, and all the others in this issue, as much as I did telling them.

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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THIS JUST IN

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SCENE & HEARD

Ready, Set, Shop!

Atlanta Shoe Market is primed to be the center of the shoe universe this month.

THE COBB GALLERIA CENTRE doing a food drive for the Atlanta and adjacent Renaissance Waverly Community Food Bank. Customers Hotel, home of The Atlanta Shoe who bring food in for donation receive Market (TASM), sold out in two a discount off Psudo,” he says. weeks. The upcoming edition (Feb. Gary Champion, president of Clarks 17-19) will be the largest in its 80-year Americas, has equally high expectations history thanks, in part, to additional for the upcoming show. “Atlanta is our exhibit space in the hotel. More than busiest show, and also where we get 1,800 brands will be exhibiting. the most drop-in visits,” he reports.

“The added space is called the “Atlanta gives us the right audience to Fashion Plaza, which will house 70 communicate our strategies, showcase booths,” says Laura Conwell-O’Brien, our product stories, and continue to executive director of the show, noting expand our premium distribution.” they will consist mostly of higher-end Ditto for Steven Mahoney, vice fashion brands from Portugal, Spain, president of sales for Samuel Hubbard.

The upcoming Atlanta Shoe Market will be the biggest in its 80-year history.

Italy, and Brazil. “It’s an extension of Atlanta, he notes, is especially critical our Fashion Collection in the nearby ballroom, which sold out in two to the comfort lifestyle brand that works very close to the calendar as it days.” She adds that the new exhibit space, in the Garden Court, will continues to expand back into wholesale. “Being our industry’s premiere feature an open bar on Saturday and Sunday from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. to show, Atlanta is a great opportunity to meet a lot of our partners in person, welcome buyers. “We want to encourage retailers to grab a drink and show and tell what we are doing as a brand, and help understand what’s mosey around,” she says. “That said, the space is actually closer to the going on in the stores,” he says. “By staying as close to the consumer as main show floor than the Fashion Collection, and those who are staying possible via our retailer partners, we ensure a higher level of long-term in the Renaissance will pass it on the way there, so they’ll see it.” success for both sides. Nothing beats a great show!”

Overall, being seen shouldn’t be an issue as TASM, as its expected And size matters, according to John Daher, owner of Shoebox and to draw record retailer attendance. That spans leading comfort speCo. in Kennebunkport, ME. He describes Atlanta as the “perfect” venue cialty independents and boutiques to national chains, according to for searching for items one would unlikely find at regional shows. “I’m Conwell-O’Brien. “There is nowhere you can go in the U.S. and find there for interesting new looks and brands that would appeal to our a show, under one roof, with all these brands,” she reports. “The show core customer,” he explains, noting it’s no longer viable to show the has taken on a whole new vibe over the past few editions. The size and same styles and brands year after year. “Our customer is relying on us energy…it’s very exciting.” to keep them up to date on what’s new and not in their closet.” Daher And if it ain’t broke, Conwell-O’Brien is a firm believer in not fixing adds that Atlanta’s later timing is another asset for his business. “Being it. Thus, the location, format, timing, opening Casino Night party, and more of a resort shop, we’re able to shop closer to the season,” he says.

NSRA educational conference (second morning before the show opens) “Our peak season is May through October, which makes the timing of remain on the slate. “People ask why we don’t move to another city with this particular show ideal.” a bigger venue to accommodate the growing demand,” Conwell-O’Brien For Conwell-O’Brien, who is marking her 41st year as TASM’s director, offers. “Well, I’d rather be sold-out than in a convention center where the drive to be the best possible show remains as strong as ever. That pipe and drape might be blocking off a vacant 20,000 square feet. consistency is what many attendees appreciate most. They know what to That’s a vibe killer. Plus, prices at the big convention centers are much expect when the doors open. But there are always a couple of additions to more expensive. What has made our show so great is the exhibitors’ make a great show even better. For example, the new Retailers Lounge, return on investment. We’re in the best place possible: a great venue in the mall entrance near exhibitors Ugg and Camuto Group, will be and a great surrounding area with great restaurants.” open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. “It’s a place where retailers can rest, charge their There are no complaints from Michael Rich, CEO and founder of cellphones, have meetings, and grab free refreshments,” she says. “We Psudo. TASM has fast become a must-attend event for the four-year-old also have a new badge system where attendees can pre-register online brand. “Atlanta is the most important show on our calendar,” he says. through our new app, which also includes floor plans, brand listings, “We’ve been getting amazing support from the industry there—like a contacts, etc. It lets you go straight to the express line to get your badge nice warm hug. It’s a throwback to when shows were a lot more fun.” and avoid the long lines at regular check-in.”

Rich adds that Psudo has doubled its booth footprint. “We need the The beat goes on. Conwell-O’Brien says the August (10-12) show will room to work with all our new customers,” he says, adding that the expand into the hotel’s Grand Ballroom to accommodate the 140 brands new location in the front hallway is another expected bonus. “It’ll be a currently on the waiting list. “I’ve never really been in competition with new look for us that we’re very excited about.” Rich is also excited for anyone else from the first day I stepped foot in here,” she says. “I just the event the team is doing with Abbadabba’s while in town. “We’re want to make it the best show possible for all of my attendees.”

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SCENE & HEARD

Tough Love Red Wing drops Classic Moc rose colorway on Valentine’s Day.

FLOWERS, CHOCOLATES, CARDS, and jewelry are go-to Valentine’s Day gifts. But we’ve all been there, done that, right? So why not go against the grain (literally) this year with the gift of sole?

At least, that’s the sentiment behind Red Wing Heritage’s Valentine’s Day drop of its iconic Classic Moc work boot in a soft Dusty Rose Abilene. The rugged boot (SRP: $319.99) comes in a unique roughout, full-grain leather that’s naturally water-resistant. Even better, it comes in his and her sizes.

Jase Swalve, senior product line manager for Red Wing Heritage, says the hue already has a strong track record of dual gender appeal. “We released a women’s Classic Moc in Rose Boundary leather in 2020, and it quickly became one of our most popular colorways for women,” he reports.

“And shortly after, we heard that there was appetite for the color to be available on our men’s last and sizes.” That

Twisted X Teams with 4-H The collab to support the nation’s largest youth development organization.

THE TWISTED X 4-H collection aims to embody the spirit of rural America while nurturing emerging young leaders of today one step at a time. Every pair purchased from the collection will help support 4-H’s nearly six million members nationwide. The youth development organization serves every country and parish in the U.S. through a network of 110 public universities and 300 Extension offices empowering members to live healthier, become involved in community organizations, and prepare for future careers.

“The 4-H organization and its members exemplify the best qualities of the Western lifestyle, so this collaboration was a natural fit for us,” says CEO Prasad Reddy. “We’re known for high-quality, comfortable footwear, and this collection created a special opportunity to put

discovery, he adds, has led Red Wing Heritage to think about its product line with a more universal approach. Since 2008, the division has rolled out Classic Mocs in a rainbow of colors—51 to be exact—from Indigo blue to Alpine green. “We’re looking at how we bring the same or similar silhouettes and leather colorways across both men’s and women’s lasts,” he says.

As for Dusty Rose Abilene, specifically, Swalve believes the appeal goes well beyond a Valentine’s Day tie-in. “The lighter hue of pink is seasonally relevant for spring and summer,” he says. “It’s intended to be a bit of a new neutral, as it’s a beautiful pink/taupe shade that’s a bit different than more traditional brown or black, but still very approachable in terms of styling and daily wear.”

a unique twist on the casual styles our audience knows and loves.”

“4-H has more than 100 years of experience in creating kids who are ready to lead and take on life’s greatest challenges, and we’re proud to come together with Twisted X who shares our passion for empowering others and bettering communities,” says Heather Elliott, senior vice president and chief development officer for the National 4-H Council. “Twisted X’s footwear expertise and capabilities make them a perfect partner, and we’re excited to see our organization represented in such a creative way.”

The collection features seven new casual styles, each adorned with the 4-H logo and pops of its signature green branding. Youth styles (SRP: $79.95 to $84.95) span an elephant print chukka driving moc, a bomber boat shoe, and a taupe chukka driving moc. The women’s collection ($99.95 to $124.95) features a weaved slip-on sneaker, a wool sneaker, and a chukka driving moc. The men’s style ($129.95) is a chukka driving moc. As part of Twisted X’s commitment to incorporate at least one sustainable material or process into all of its products, the 4-H collection is no exception. Each pair features Blend85 footbeds composed of 85 percent recycled foam in an effort to reduce factory waste. The footbeds also feature an ecoTWEED lining made from recycled plastic bottles while the rubber outsoles are made with blend rice husks, an agricultural by-product that is typically thrown away.

The 4-H collection will be available in-store and online with Twisted X retail partners across the country beginning this March.

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Q&A

BY GREG

DUTTER

THE RACE IS ON!

Gary Champion, president of Clarks Americas, on how the brand is poised to start regaining its comfort lifestyle title status.

IT ONLY TOOK eight years and four global CEOs, but Gary Champion says Clarks is poised for its comeback—finally. It’s what he envisioned the day he returned in 2016, after a six-year hiatus managing other brands, to the division he and former CEO Bob Infantino guided over two decades into a near $1 billion juggernaut. (Along the way, Clarks became the standard-bearer of how to operate a Euro comfort shoe brand successfully in North America.) After many fits and starts, Champion says the entire team, led by Global CEO Jonathan Ram since April of 2022, is on the same page and fully backed by Viva Goods, which now has a 51 percent ownership stake in the company. The necessary rightsizing of the business has been completed, a clear strategy is firmly in place, the initial groundwork is being laid, and the goals are big yet realistic.

Indeed, Champion believes 2024 marks Clarks’ official start to becoming a comfort champion again.

“I gathered our team together last May at the start of the sell-in for Spring/Summer ’24 and told them this is the starting pistol,” Champion says. “The starting and stopping, starting and stopping is over. This is a true plan of attack matched up with strategies, objectives, and goals— everybody is aligned, not only from a regional perspective but also globally, on what we’re trying to achieve.”

For the North American market, that means a brand with the elasticity and strength to once again fire on all cylinders. It means continuing to deliver trend-right products for major department stores and chains like DSW, as well as recapturing the premium market sold at comfort specialty dealers, upscale chains, and boutiques. The latter, Champion says, is where Clarks had dropped the ball and, amid the CEO churnover, kept fumbling.

“The premium strategies kept changing, as we had a lot of different CEOs come in with different ideas on how to approach that segment,” he says.

“There were some pieces I got done, but there were other pieces where I kept running into problems to get us where we needed to be.”

Enter Ram, the fixer and grand overseer. A veteran of 16 years at New 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • february 2024

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Balance that included rebuilding its European business and culminated in being EVP of North America, he understood right away what needed to be done from a global perspective while allowing for regional nuances. In fact, Champion knew Ram was the right man for the job on their first call. “By the end of that hour, we were finishing each other’s sentences,” he says. “Jon understands how to utilize the tremendous global power of the Clarks brand, but he also understands globalization versus centralization—that there are a lot of efficiencies to take in from a global perspective, but you need to create space to take advantage of the nuances within the regions.” Champion adds, “Jon has created a lot of flexibility for us in the Americas and other regions to thrive. We all sense it. He’s brought real clarity about how we’re going to achieve our goals.”

Champion’s primary focus now is on rebuilding the premium business. It’s a three-tiered approach broken into Originals, Signature, and Artisan. Or, as Champion says: fastest, faster, and fast. Originals targets trend setters. It’s a tight collection that includes updates on iconic Clarks styles as well as collabs, like the recent ones with Zara and the 8th Street Samba with Kith’s Ronnie Feig and Adidas Originals. “They’ve been extremely successful,” he reports. “Originals sets the halo for bringing new consumers into our brand.” Meanwhile, Signature is aimed at the contemporary consumer who, at the moment, probably isn’t thinking about Clarks as their purchase, admits Champion. “We know how to put genuine comfort into a contemporary product that, when they try it on, they’ll instantly understand,” he says, noting that the collection pushes the envelope on the brand’s design and development capabilities. “We just had to get the styling right, and we have.” And Artisan lies in the premium sweet spot that Clarks used to dominate, just with modern updates. “Artisan is bringing consumers who know and love us back into the brand,” Champion explains. This is the audience the brand expects to recapture first, he adds.

“That’s the Schulers, Shoe Mills, and Brown Shoe Fits of the world, whereas Signature is white space that we have to nurture. Those consumers could be shopping in boutiques, Dillard’s, Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Saks.”

Dillard’s, for one, is giving Clarks a test online this spring. While small in overall scope, it’s a big deal for Champion, who met with President Alex Dillard when he first returned to Clarks only to be told that the department store chain was stepping away from the brand. The reason: Clarks wasn’t providing the premium product Dillard’s needed to build its business. Dillard told Champion to call again when Clarks had fixed the problem.

The rejection really stung, but Champion resolved to take the advice and call only when he felt the

product was right—the Spring/Summer ’24 line.

“It was great to see Alex again,” Champion says, noting that Dillard’s had been a top customer for years. “We expect it to do well, and we’ll be trying to get on their floors again going forward.”

Speaking of new floors, Champion believes there is “tremendous” potential for Clarks in athletic dealers like Dick’s, Foot Locker, and Cabela’s. The brand already boasts plenty of street cred—its Wallabees have long been embraced by hip hop stars and streetwear influencers. In addition, he says a brown shoe brand’s take on sporty casual presents a fresh perspective. “How many people buying Hoka and On don’t even run? It’s a huge white space,” he offers.

“There are some big athletic brands on the fringe of that world, whereas Clarks has been there for a long time with iconic styles. It’s about finding ways to unlock that business.”

Champion is chomping at the bit for all the growth opportunities that he believes lie within reach of Clarks, which will celebrate its 200th anniversary in 2025. One might argue that his patience and loyalty alone deserve such a reward. (Many veteran execs would have skipped out after the second or third

CEO.) Not Champion. He’s Clarks to the bone. “It’s a great company, and I love this opportunity to get the business back to where it should be,” he says.

You’ve been delayed, but not denied?

You could say that. But have I accomplished all of what I set out to do when I came back? No. Although, there were things that needed fixing right away, which we’ve done. We got our inventories in line and downsized our business as the overhead costs were quite large. That included moving to smaller offices, lowering the head count, and reducing our full-price retail footprint because the premium business was no longer selling. We’re now down to 42 full-price stores and 117 outlets. All of those things had to happen while also making sure that we kept the value side of our business thriving, which we have. We’ve been profitable the last seven years. And having Viva Goods take a 51 percent ownership stake in 2021 really helped stabilize the business further and position us for growth.

What does Viva Goods bring to the equation?

They’re good business people, and they come from

O F F TH E C U F F What are you reading? For business, I’m reading The Power of Trust: How Companies Build It, Lose It, Regain It by Sandra J. Sucher. She’s a Harvard professor and a neighbor of mine. And for leisure, I’m reading Light Bringer, the latest in the dystopian Red Rising series, by Pierce Brown.

What was the last movieyou saw? Oppenheimer. I kind of liked it and kind of didn’t. But it brought back memories of when we’d sit under our school desks for those atomic bomb drills.

What might people be surprised to know about you?

My degree is in education, and my first job with Clarks was in HR as an office manager.

What is the best piece of business advice you’ve ever received? Treat everyone with

respect. It came from my father, who was a safety engineer for General Electric.

Who is your most coveted dinner guest? Abraham Lincoln.

I think he’s one of the greatest human beings ever. Maybe I’ll get a chance one day. (Laughs) Of the living, Pete Carroll, the former coach of the Seattle Seahawks. Players love him, and I love how he pulls everyone together with similar goals. He really builds a team.

What is inspiring you right now? It has a lot to do with why I originally came back to Clarks: creating opportunity for people who want to succeed. I love coming in every day to work on rebuilding this brand and have the people engaged with me in that effort succeed and have opportunities as well. That’s when everyone wins.

What was your best concert?

I’m not a big concert-goer, but this is one I’ll always remember. I was in my early 20s at a small café watching Livingston Taylor perform.

About 40 minutes into his set, his brother James Taylor walked onto the stage and they jammed for about an hour. It was incredible. .

Where is your moment of Zen? It’s 6 a.m. every morning when I meditate for 15 to 30 minutes. I’ve been doing that for about three years. It really pays off; I love that quiet time.

What is your motto? Just keep moving forward one step at a time.

What is your Kryptonite? I don’t have one. I never felt like anything could ever freeze me up and take my powers away.

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Q&A

the product should allow for some regional differences. It’s how you merge and meld those two aspects that give you the opportunity to grow. That’s the beauty of Jon in that he’s already done that. He rebuilt the New Balance brand in Europe and Viva Goods understands Southeast Asia. We’re in a good position to grow. The team is very knowledgeable, and they want to win. It’s the first time in a long time that everyone around me feels this way about the brand.

the footwear world. They understand development, manufacturing, sourcing, etc. And they’re willing to invest in the business. This isn’t a turn and burn scenario. These guys want into the global branded apparel business, and Clarks is a major step in that effort. I’m thrilled with their support; it really changed the attitude around here. Then they brought Jon into the business, and he brings a global perspective, he’s a strong brand guy, he knows the athletic world, which helps me, and he understands brand perception and how to utilize those strengths. And what better brand is there than Clarks when you talk about the comfort world? The consistency and strength of Clarks’ brand globally is impressive. We’re turning 200 years old in 2025; we’ve been making shoes a long time The fourth CEO is a charm?

Yes. Nobody before was able to bring the globe together like Jon has. He has a clear vision of how to implement strategies, objectives, and goals on a regional basis. He’s done a terrific job in a very short period of time. He’s giving me the opportunities to do what I need in order to accomplish our goals.

It helps that there are also plenty of people in our division who’ve been with this company for over 20 years. They’re strong product and brand people.

That’s why I’m motivated every day to get us back to that point we were. We’re going to make it happen.

Was there ever a point—after the third CEO, perhaps—where you felt you just can’t do what you came back to do?

Of course. But you have to stay focused, adjust, and keep moving forward.

There’s over 1,000 people counting on me to keep this business moving forward. Now, do you get frustrated at times? Sure. But you find ways to survive.

Fortunately, we still have a strong company culture, which is important. We still make great product. We just need to get the premium base rebuilt. That’s what I’m focused on now.

Why do so many Euro comfort brands insist on a global approach to product when it’s proven such uniformity doesn’t work well, particularly in the U.S. market?

That’s a good question. While the brand image and perception should be consistent, no matter what country you’re in, how you interpret that within

So the strategy for 2024?

My main focus is rebuilding our premium business—Artisan, in Left to right: The Torhill Hi and selects particular, and Signature. It’s all from the women’s Fall/Winter ’24 white space for us. Artisan is the collection. way back and Signature is the way forward. The first step is to go after those retailers who’ve been waiting for us to start doing the right things again. That’s the Schulers, Scheels, and Brown Shoe Fits of the world. We got down to very small amounts in those doors. We held our space as best we could, because they wanted us to stay on their floors as well. But we used to have walls of Clarks in those stores, and now it’s tables. We want to get back to walls. That’s where we’re heading with Artisan. We started this year with a bang, and our bookings through fall are heating up. Signature is about winning over boutiques and more upscale chains. We’re working hard on that.

Just how hard is it to win retailers back?

Retailers have been very good to us. They’ve been patient, because there were times we’d deliver product, and then it would change. I told them to just hang in there with me. We’re going to get it right. It has to do with trust and integrity, and they’ve shown me plenty. That’s the other piece that brings me back into the business every day. I want the team back together. But the team isn’t just Clarks employees; it’s got to include our retailers as well.

What will retailers see at the Atlanta show?

They’ll see a clear, tight, strong direction for Fall/Winter ’24 in Originals, Signature and Artisan. We’re trying to take back premium market share, so we didn’t want to throw too much at them. It can turn and burn. Overall, it’s ace Clarks product that, regardless of the price, is good quality, good fit, good value, and good materials. So a customer who walks into a JC Penney understands the shoes, the same way a person walking into Schulers or Dillard’s will understand those. I should add that our volume business is almost like where we were with the premium side back in the day. We have solid plans around growing that business further managed by great people who understand that business. We also have strong relationships with those retailers and their customers. There, we’re taking market share away from competitors as well as picking up sales from those who are leaving/have already left that business.

And the plan for Originals?

We’re creating a lot of excitement there. For example, the collabs we’re doing are creating a lot of excitement for a whole new level of young trendsetters that we’ve never reached before. And that bleeds down through the whole

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brand. The white space for a brown shoe brand like Clarks in that sport casual category has huge potential. It’s a big market. Brands like Hoka and Hey Dude came out of nowhere.

It helps that Clarks already possesses strong crossover appeal with that target audience.

It’s amazing. The Wall Street Journal recently published an article about what trendsetters are wearing as a break from sneakers. An Originals style was one of the five examples. That (unpaid) endorsement is great, but now it’s about how to build off of that. How do we unlock that piece of the business? Before, we’ve never actively tapped into that market. We just let it ebb and flow. This is the first time we’re nurturing that base. It’s the mentality of an athletic brand, and having Jon and Tara McRae, our chief marketing and digital officer, who both come from that world, is key. They understand how to nurture that segment. It’s more of a slow burn. Originals will never be more than 10 percent of our total business. But it keeps us youthful and exciting, and it will bring more people into our great shoe manufacturing brand overall. What we build underneath that halo has real power.

You cited the loyalty of many retailers who have weathered Clarks’ fits and starts of the past few years. So what’s your take on the Dear John letters some of these retailers have received from some brands?

I don’t understand that philosophy. I believe you stay with the people who got you to the dance. How could I ever turn my back on the independent

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retailer when they’ve helped me along for the last eight years on the belief that I’d get this business back to where I said I would. On that note, we got too aggressive in the number of stores, which put a lot of pressure on them.

We were up to 270. And while I think 42 is too low, we’re not going to be a “retail” company. We’re going to have stores and DTC, but we’re doing it the right way. It’s got to be a win-win for everybody.

Where do you envision Clarks in three years?

Rather than state a specific number, I think we’ll grow quickly over the next three years and could skyrocket if we hit on the right product in the sport channel segment. My overall vision is anyone walking into a tier one store in Europe, Southeast Asia, and North America will see innovative product in our Originals, Signature, and Artisan collections. The offshoots of those collections should bring us into a stronger stance in chains like Journeys and hopefully sports dealers like Foot Locker, Dick’s, Bass Pro Shops, and Cabela’s.

Meanwhile, I envision our volume business to continue to grow. That’s the three-year plan. We’ll see what happens.

What screws it all up?

You never know. Look at the chaotic year we just went through. The economy can screw it up. World affairs can, too. I’ve got no control over those things.

We can only control things within Clarks and try and move forward, and we can only adjust to the things we can’t control. I fall back on the strength and diversity of the Clarks brand. We’re really good at making shoes, which >55

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Dream Big On the heels of a major acquisition, Garrett Breton, owner of Comfort One Shoes, maps out an aggressive strategy for further expansion and growth. By Greg Dutter

I

F YOU TOOK a glance at Garrett Breton’s LinkedIn profile, you might assume that he was destined to be president and owner of Comfort One Shoes, now a 15-store chain following last fall’s acquisition of Saxon Shoes, a 70-year-old Richmond, VA, institution. Breton joined the Mid-Atlantic-centered company in 1994, as a 14-year-old stock boy, helping his father, Maurice, get the then single, 850-square-foot store off the ground. He steadily climbed the ladder to sales associate, assistant manager, manager, buyer, director of merchandising, VP of sales, VP of merchandising, and, finally, president and owner in January 2020. He honed his retailing skills at each stop. He was successful and enjoyed it, most of the time. Along the way, Comfort One Shoes expanded and built a reputation as the standard-bearer of topnotch customer service with a merchandise mix that broke barriers on what consumers would spend for casual footwear. So one might assume that when Breton took the mantle, he would be fulfilling his lifelong dream.

Well, not exactly. It wasn’t until about 15 years into his tenure at Comfort One Shoes that Breton even entertained the idea of making this a career, let alone buying the family business one day. Until that point Breton, an entrepreneur

at heart with various successful side gigs, just didn’t feel like Comfort One Shoes was “his thing,” or would ever be. “It felt like it was my dad’s company that I just worked at,” he says. “I was sucked up into it, managing stores and then buying, but it never felt like this was my dream.”

That all changed when Breton began participating in NSRA’s NextGen Leadership Program, around age 30. “That’s when the thinking went from a job to how do we go from we to me?” he says. “How do we run the business together, and then how would he eventually exit and [let] me take over fully?

What would that look like?”

Those NextGen meetings were where Breton found his personal Star Trek convention, so to speak. There were people around his age who had spent their lives working in their family shoe businesses. They had similar backgrounds, skills, concerns, dreams, pangs, and indecision. There was plenty of family drama to go around. Most of all, though, the meetings were solution-oriented Stanley Eisenman with the goal of successfully passing these operations on to the next generation in a way that would be best for the family and the business. “All those difficult conversations that NextGen brought up made it something that I started working towards, as opposed to an outside opportunity that maybe would

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At 21,000 square feet, Saxon is a family shoe store shopping destination in Richmond’s Short Pump Town Center.

happen someday but didn’t feel real,” Breton recalls. “I was able to say here’s what I would love. Here’s how I would do things differently. Here are the skills I need to learn. Here’s a community that I can bounce questions off of. It made it all much less isolating.”

The fact is when your father owns the company, it’s difficult to confide in coworkers. “They don’t want to hear it, basically,” Breton says, noting that this was a stretch when work wasn’t that much fun. “But once I was able to build a community—with the Habre, Luck, Sajdak, and Beck families—it became, ‘Oh, I can figure out how to do this forever in ways that I’m very energized by.’”

After about a year of negotiations, the Bretons entered into a 10-year gradual transfer of ownership deal, which was finalized in January 2020. Perfect timing—not! “I walked right into Covid, which was into the fire,” he says. “While it was the most stressful period of my life, I got a fire hose of learning that I think changed me as a leader and really solidified the company.”

Long pandemic story short: Comfort One Shoes laid off 95 percent of its workforce while Breton went into survival mode. He met with banks, vendors, and landlords trying to manage the cash flow that was going out while a trickle was coming in through its online channel. Meanwhile, Shawn O’Neill, vice president and a 27-year veteran of the company, updated employees on when they might get back to work. Stores were closed from two to six months. Breton is proud to report that 100 of the 102 employees were rehired. (One retired and the other moved to another state.) It took 18 months to get back to 2019 numbers. “It was many, many, many sleepless nights and the highest stress I’ve ever faced,” Breton recalls, noting that his father was very helpful, but it was his problem to fix.

“And it wasn’t like my father, or anyone else, had a playbook to follow for an 87 percent drop in sales in one day.”

Flash forward and Breton reports Comfort One Shoes is registering its best year to date (“by a lot”) on the heels of 2023, which was the best in its history. In addition to consumers’ desire to shop in stores again and Comfort One Shoes being

premier destinations for service and selection, he attributes the amazing rebound to the increased trust that’s made a great team even better. “The level of trust between the salesfloor and management soared,” he says.

“Our weekly Teams meetings were fully transparent: Here’s where we need to get to, and everyone pulled together on achieving that.” Credit, Breton adds, goes to his dad, who built a competent and strong workforce that had been together for years. “My dad attracted people who want accountability and want to be the best. Going through Covid made our team super-charged.”

GARRETT GOES BIG Breton is a go big or go home exec. He’s a big picture guy with wildly aggressive growth plans. In fact, he himself called the chain’s target, set in 2021, of 33 percent annualized growth as “optimistically delusional,” but that’s how he rolls. “We’ve hit it both years,” he reports, citing a combination of maximizing store sales, investing in technology, growing its online channel (sales doubled in 2021 and 2022), and expanding the store base through acquisitions. He sees the latter as the best way to meet that growth pace.

Breton first stuck his toe in those waters in June 2022, acquiring Montague and Son Birkenstock in Herdon, VA. It had been in business for more than 30 years. It met the basic criteria: nearby and a similar footprint. Out of the gate, Breton went conservative, forecasting 10 percent growth. Sales grew 43 percent.

“We were able to add athletic as a category, which has been the hottest trend in the country,” he says. “And we turned the open stock format into a full-service store. We also had higher margins, so the profits are even higher as a percentage. It’s all worked really well.” Breton adds. “It was a safer acquisition to get

A plethora of Who‘s Who lifestyle brands can be found in Saxon Shoes.

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Sounding Off The way Garrett Breton sees it.

Private Label: There used to be a geographical fence around D.C. where we’d have exclusives.

That’s over. Now brand sites offer styles in every color including 10 that they won’t offer to us. Plus, a lot of vendors are opening stores. So the lines have blurred, and we can go to European factories and make great shoes with better margins. If we do our job well, customers will want a second pair, and if they Google that brand, it’ll only brings them to us. There are absolute advantages to doing this, which vendors understand. Similarly, I expect vendors to do what’s best for them. That aside, there is tons more where our interests overlap.

Designing: I’m not reinventing the wheel. I take a known style and maybe make it better— a more padded espadrille.

We’ve also upgraded our marketing story and use better boxes—aspects that add value beyond the shoes. It’s another new project that gets me excited. The sacrifice is a lot of travel to Portugal, Spain, Italy, Turkey, and Brazil. But building something exceptional takes time and effort.

tions. They are trusted sources of information. It creates tremendous loyalty.

Culture: We trust and work for each other. I love our camaraderie. We’re also a bit silly. At our annual awards brunch, for example, I wear a crazy outfit and we all have a good time. We’re not stodgy. We’re growing and evolving, and that’s exciting. It’s a fun place to work.

Leadership: Some retailers are great at merchandising, others at marketing or numbers.

Through self-reflection, I’ve identified my weaknesses and have brought in or delegated people to do what I’m bad at so we can fire on all cylinders.

The key is to not make the whole company like the leader.

Hiring people who are like you with similar skills because you enjoy hanging out together is wrong!

Typical Day: Recently, I was at Saxon’s where I first met with the manager, who’s been there for 30 years. She informed me about some merchandise and marketing needs. We also A life’s work: talked about integrating new Garrett Breton and family. hires into the team. We then DTC: Strong brands can attract consumers to discussed the marketing calendar, and she gave me their sites, but that’s only a few. It’s cheaper to contacts for the newspaper, TV, and radio outlets acquire customers by selling through a retailer so we don’t miss the clearance sales timing. Then than it is to find them online. But it’s also easy to I met with our executive VP (Shawn O’Neill), and steal them when it comes to buying the repeat we got on the same page on several matters, like purchases. That’s what we’ve lost over the last our three-day, off-site training session for our decade. So we must do a better job at making it managers coming up. Then we met with some fun to come into our stores and introduce them to digital salespeople about updates to our site. items that they don’t know yet. We back that up Then it was off to my daughter’s holiday pageant. with a guarantee that if they don’t love their shoes, we’ll give their money back or a different pair. We Dream Job: I’m in a cool spot where I can focus on make that guarantee because we do such a good what I want, because I have great people making job selecting the right style and fit them properly. sure the trains all run on time. The favorite part of my job is exploring new opportunities, followed Customer Service: I hear a lot of people talk about closely by doing that with people I love working it, but I don’t see it much. Grabbing a shoe out of with. You could say I’m in charge of culture and the back room isn’t service to me. The boomer growth. Cultural being rewarding employees for generation, in particular, wants an experience doing awesome stuff via thank you notes, cigars, where they’re treated nicely by people who promotions, etc. That’s the fun part. The challenging, know what they’re doing and can actually save but exciting part, is looking for new opportunities them time, as opposed to someone who is paid so we can continue to evolve and grow. to change the clearance sign in the window. We have exceptional people. The average floor tenure Retirement: I wouldn’t know what I’d do. (Laughs). is eight years. Customers can make real connec- Besides, I’m having too much fun.

the kinks out, which thank God we did, because Saxon’s is a much bigger project.”

At 21,000 square feet, Saxon Shoes is indeed much bigger. It’s about double the largest Comfort One Shoes location. It also includes an extensive children’s department—another first for the chain. The brand selection is roughly double what they normally carry, not to mention consists of a much broader price spectrum. It’s a different animal entirely.

None of that has deterred Breton. He is thinking big, and he is confident that Saxon has the potential to grow nicely. “Richmond is the fastest growing market in Virginia, and we would have opened a store for sure, or two or three, if Saxon’s hadn’t been there,” he says, noting that the store is roughly an hour and a half from Comfort One Shoes’ distribution center. “It has enough volume that it can be a hub for our next set of acquisitions and growth. It gives us access to products that we’ve never tested, and they have a much bigger sizes-and-widths business, so there are a lot of opportunities to learn and tap into.” Breton believes the Richmond market will respond well to Comfort One Shoes’ unique products and high level of service, adding that Saxon is already working well from a volume and sales point. It helps, he adds, that the Saxon team is great. “They’re just really nice people, and they want to learn,” he says. “Some have been there for 50 years. One of their children’s salespeople knows every single customer who walks into their doors going back decades. She’s a part of that community.”

That connection looks to remain strong, as Comfort One Shoes retained every Saxon employee (and hired seven more), including Amanda Weiner, who represents the third generation of the original family ownership.

She’s the children’s buyer and marketing outreach person for the community. “Customers are happy the employees are still there,” Breton says. “They’re passionate about the store. They grew up shopping there. Their grandmothers and kids shopped there.”

Breton’s mission is to make Saxon’s connection and shopping experience even stronger. That spans free lollipops in the kids’ department to cigar rolling and Scotch nights for the guys and ladies’ nights with Champagne and local wines. “We’re going to flood that store with exciting experiences, so they’ll have a good time and will want to come back,” he says.

“We want Saxon Shoes to be a community hub that embraces the nostalgic feel of a family shoe store.”

Former Saxon Shoes President Gary Weiner believes his family business is in very good hands.

“After doing our homework, it just felt like >53

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Tip of the Cap Leading execs on why Comfort One Shoes is in a league of its own.

KIT T Y BO LI N G E R, P RE SI DE N T , DA N SKO

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Valued Partner: Comfort One Shoes is a key partner of Dansko’s since 1994! Their dominance in their markets has given us the opportunity to showcase our product in an environment where we know consumers will be receiving the highest level of service. They have confidence that Dansko is a brand of the highest quality and will provide long-term comfort.

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Secret Ingredient: The enduring relationships that they have with customers in the neighborhoods they serve. Their special events and celebrations bring communities together. That sense of joy supersedes sales transactions.

Garrett Factor: Having learned from the master, Maurice, Garrett knows how to run a business.

His family-focused management style have infused the organization with confidence in the future.

The application of generational knowledge combined with a newer approach has given Comfort One Shoes a renewed sense of purpose.

Saxon Acquisition: It ensures the Weiner family legacy in Richmond continues—a win for Saxon’s customers and employees. Meanwhile, they can engage with existing customers and bring in new ones. And it’s great for Dansko because it offers Comfort One Shoes the opportunity to test styles there, which is where that customer expects to find an extended Dansko assortment.

SAM SPEAR S, P RE SI DE N T , A RA N O RT H AM E R I CA

Valued Partner: They’re a very important partner of Ara’s and, more importantly, of the industry.

They’re the litmus test for quality, materials, fit, aesthetics, price/value, deliveries, sell-through, etc. They’re leaders in training. They sales team knows how to present and sell. They invest in the best people. They’re always looking to the future, be it product, trends, the NextGen program, etc.

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Secret Ingredient: The team’s eternal positivity, which is contagious. You just want to be around them. I mean, how many CEOs have a bubble machine in their office window? What owner makes The Office spoof videos for its website? The team enjoys life, and they run a very successful business. But they don’t take themselves so seriously that they forget that life is for living.

Garrett Factor: His self-confidence and self-awareness allows the team to make decisions. He trusts them, which frees him to be looking out for the next opportunity, or threat. He’s intelligent and clever yet remains incredibly humble. He’s perhaps the most connected person in the independent retail world, and he loves to learn. His curiosity will keep him young at heart.

Saxon Acquisition: Gary Weiner built an amazing business, and Comfort One Shoes is going to elevate it to the next level. This is a 1+1 = 3 result. It’ll be very good for the industry and their customers.

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Valued Partner: Not only have they been great partners for well over a decade, but they are longtime friends. Their unique assortment, amazing staff, and commitment to building long-term relationships with their customers is executed at the highest level.

Secret Ingredient: The team’s rare commitment to creating smart KPI’s, measuring sales associate behavior, creating accountability, and delivering extraordinary customer service. Plus, their merchandise and fit experience ensures customers leave with shoes that feel and function great.

Garrett Factor: He’s a great leader. The proof is in the results: a growing business in a difficult market. It offers an excellent in-store and online experience, has a loyal and growing customer base, and internally has low turnover and a devoted, topnotch management team.

Saxon Acquisition: With their strong management skills, eye for great products, and commitment to service, I have no doubt that Saxon’s will remain an important part of the community for years to come.

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BC Footwear hiker sole Mary Janes.

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Ballerinas with rubber soles

by Naot. Opposite page: Dansko Mary Jane sculpted sole clogs.

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Suede block heel pumps

by Lifestride. Opposite page, clockwise from top: Alegria wedge; square toe Mary Jane

by Beautiisoles; Azura embellished flat; Seychelles pump.

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Suede block heel pumps

by Valentina Rangoni; Opposite page: Zodiac metallic Mary Jane pumps.

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Clockwise from top left: Ecco mini-wedge Mary Jane; mixed material sneaker Mary Jane by Propét; Elizée almond toe pump; mixed material sporty Mary Jane by Halsa. Opposite page: Aetrex sneaker Mary Janes with arch support.

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FSNY block heel pumps.

Opposite page: chunky Mary Janes by Jambu.

Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Michael Macko; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; model: Lydia Wilson/ Supreme Management; hair and makeup: Irina Charkova/Next Artists; stylist assistant: Eileen Viglietta; photo assistant: Edward Cataldo. All flowers on model courtesy of M & S Schmalberg.

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A N OT E T O M Y Y O U N G E R S E L F

STAND-UP GUY Danny Livingston, executive vice president of sales for Eastland, and part-time comedian, looks back on a lucky life. you as a fixer of broken things and a grower of underfed businesses.

DEAR 16-YEAR-OLD DANNY…Remember how Dad always You enjoy this side of the table. Your years of retail experience are a used to say, “Luck is the residue of design?” Well, it turns out that John key asset. At the same time, absorb all you can from your wholesale Milton saying—made more famous by Branch Rickey, the baseball elders. Good people will take notice and reach out. Stay ready. executive who hired Jackie Robinson—has merit. That’s because I’m In 1998, Scott Prentice, Randy Routh, Joe Molinaro, Bob Hersh, writing from the future to tell you that your imminent start to a career and Peter Greuterich invite you to join Bruno Magli. They admire your in the footwear industry—one that’s 45 years and counting—has a lot ability to open doors. There, you ride the wonderful wave of working to do with that nugget of wisdom. with Nordstrom. You learn that reliability, above all else, is key. Working That first stroke of luck stems from being mugged. Seriously! You in these trenches, you learn more about selling ditch school early in search of a part-time job at shoes than at any other stop in your career. the Queens Center. (Your newspaper boy income Then, in 2004, Weyco Group taps you as just can’t keep pace with your teenage desires.)

Florsheim’s Northeast Territory Manager. This is You stop in store after store, striking out. Then your formal introduction to the corporate world. you’re mugged under a Queens Blvd. overpass.

Embrace it. You flourish under the guidance of Broke and scared, you duck into a nearby Fayva David McGinnis, Kevin Schiff, and Tony Short.

Shoes and ask to use the phone to call home. It In 2007, you are named General Manager of just so happens the store needs a stock boy. You, Florsheim by Duckie Brown. You accumulate 6’1” and 130 pounds of hyperactivity, get the job! awards, including the Plus Award for “Launch It begins a love affair with shoes, travel, and, most of the Year” from Footwear Plus and “Fashion of all, the amazing and funny (more on that later) Idea of the Year” from The New York Times. Best people you meet every step of the way. of all, Mom finally accepts your decision to have First stop is that stock room. You work alone dropped out of college. She’s proud. She believes amid thousands of shoe boxes, a wonderful basethere is goodness in the shoes you sell, because ment aroma, and WNEW-FM as your soundtrack. the more you sell, the better the holidays are for You love how the boxes fit on the racks, how the the people working in all the warehouses and stock numbers keep order, how you can shift the stockrooms. walls up and down, and how to make order out Here’s the skinny: Danny Livingston, In 2015, you join Eastland as Vice President of chaos. You become king of that stockroom. circa his early 20s. of Sales. You continue doing what you do best: Over the next five years, you graduate to the selling tons of shoes. You log 50,000 miles a year visiting stores. You’ve selling floor. It accelerates your ability to multitask and problem-solve. now weathered the Great Recession, the Retail Apocalypse, the Covid You absorb the wisdom of part-timers who attend St John’s University, pandemic (a doozy), and countless fashion swings. You’re still standing!

Queens College, and NYU. They take you under their wing. Follow Your now deep in Shoe Dog years, but that inner skinny kid is alive their lead on acting more mature, taking better care of yourself, and and kicking! Math remains a weakness, you refuse to wear a watch (it using affability to your advantage. Watch how Ross, Tim, Nick, and snags your arm hairs), and you hate wearing a tie, but you’ve carved Gianina interact with customers and deal with adversity brought on out a career to be proud of. Your friends, family, home…everything by impossible bosses. They are your life professors—just with shoes is connected to working in this wonderful industry. There is no one in the picture of every frame. luckier than you. Embrace all that comes your way.

In 1984, more luck comes your way. A buddy’s brother tells you of a job Of course, you’ll make mistakes. The shoe business, as in life, isn’t opening at a Fratelli Rossetti store in Manhattan—a whole other planet always a perfect fit. Allow yourself to fail, or at least forgive yourself from Queens! But you adapt quickly, selling shoes to captains of industry, and learn from it when you do. Be kind to yourself. Never become ladies who lunch, and notable people including Gabriel Garcia Marquez, jaded. Laugh. This business is funny. In fact, it’s a source of material Candice Bergen, and Canadian Prime Minister Brian Mulrooney. Absorb that fuels your recent side hustle: stand-up comedian! That’s right, everything about this experience. Work with the sincerity, conviction, the shy kid performs in New York comedy clubs! Bits span polydactyl and love that your family and Fayva friends instilled in you. Guide them customers to women willing to cut off a couple of toes if it means properly, fit them correctly, and treat them as you would want to be squeezing into the latest must-have style. Stand-up becomes your treated. These tenets serve as your calling card for future career stops. superpower, no cape required!

In fact, you’ll never need a resume largely because of these attributes.

When you turn 60, you’ll wish aspects of your life happened slower.

Relentless curiosity and optimism help guide you. In 1993, you That’s life. Just take solace that whenever you glance in the rearview crossover into wholesale at the request of Michael Bartos and David mirror, it’s with pride. Your lucky life is indeed the residue of design.

Albahari to help establish Cable & Co and Bacco Bucci. They value

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Photography credit: Vogue Runway/Filippo Fior/Gorunway.com

continued from page 38 Garrett, Shawn, and Comfort One Shoes has their A game on,” he says. “Their underlining philosophy of really taking good care of the people who work with them, the ones who take them to the dance, as well as taking good care of customers is in line with ours.

And their organizational structure is solid—the way they manage vendors, work with product, training, etc. It’s like Saxon Shoes on steroids.”

that. Our aim is to make evolutionary changes to make a business even better.”

The same learning curve applies to servicing Saxon’s broader audience. “You have to help customers more quickly as opposed to Comfort One Shoes, where we’ll spend over an hour with them,” Breton offers.

“There’s lots of interaction that can expand the sales opportunity, whereas in Saxon’s it’s let me run and grab that as quick as I can for you. So we’re learning how to meld our two approaches.”

Breton is projecting a modest increase for Saxon in 2024. Some new and private label brands as well as returning brands—On being notable—should help.

“We’re also going to do a lot more digital marketing than they did previously, which should bring in more customers.” Above all, it’s a work in progress. “We’re learning every day, and we’re a stronger and more diverse company as a result,” he says.

WHO’S NEXT? In keeping with Breton’s aggressive growth strategy, he envisions operating 23 locations in three years.

He has a detailed set of criteria and a spreadsheet listing potential acquisitions. “I see no problem finding deals over the next several years,” he says. That aside, it’s a targeted search. “I want to go where the government is friendly to retailers, and that means from tax and regulation perspectives,” he offers.

“I also want to go where there’s LIVING THE DREAM a 10- to 20-year growth trend in Breton is one happy camper now. that market. So most of our focus Those early doubts as to whether is on the Southeast.”

Comfort One Shoes was the right Why not open stores from career are well behind him. “The scratch? Breton is a firm believer, business has become something I for now, that acquisitions preswant as opposed to just happenent a clearer path for growth. ing,” he says. “I’m really enjoying For starters, the pickings are it now. As long as I’m learning there. “There are a lot of people new things that are challenging who are looking to retire, and and fun, then I’m excited and I they have good stores,” he says. want to stay.”

“Plus, most of the businesses that Breton has become a proud we’re looking at have a lower rent protector of his family’s retail structure and sales costs than legacy, which he now considers we do, so if we can bring in our Shoppers rarely leave empty handed. to be his biggest responsibility. operational expertise and higher margin products, we can make more money in the “I’m very proud my dad trusted me with Comfort same location, which allows us to pay a fair price for One Shoes to grow and protect,” he says. “Things their business and sill have upsides for us.” Another are really clicking, and having been through cycles benefit: knowing the volume and rent figures. It when they weren’t, I’m enjoying this run a lot. It’s an exciting place—the team is fired up.” takes out a lot of guesswork.

The drive to evolve and succeed in spite of the As for potential drawbacks, Breton cites a few— like employees being on board with the new owners. risks is what fuels Breton. “Doing little increases “Employees can be set in their ways, and you have each year doesn’t motivate me,” he says. “I need to to overcome that,” he explains. “You have to figure feel that I’m making progress, and that involves out what’s important to each person and see what overcoming difficulties.”

That statement brings Breton back to the many they’re doing and why they’re doing it that way, and then see if your system is better. It involves much sleepless nights during Covid and why he fought so more collaboration and is more time consuming than hard to stay in business: It was about his employees. starting a team from scratch.” But, he adds, you can’t “I’ve worked with many of them for 20 years, and I’m throw the baby out with the bath water. It’s why, for excited when they grow professionally and when their example, Breton is keeping the kids’ department kids get into good colleges,” he says. “I can’t get that in Saxon. “Even though it’s a difficult business to feeling anywhere else.” And in order to retain good manage and it has low margins, taking it out would employees, he can’t stand pat. “If we stay the same, be disastrous for that business,” he says, noting that there’s no chance for that great assistant manager to people drive for hours just to shop that department. become manager of a new store, or for someone to “It’s one of the busiest departments, and many of the get involved in designing for our private label busimoms end up shopping the other departments. It ness or to get into digital marketing. We have to keep makes sense. We just have to learn how to embrace evolving and make our business grow.” •

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Feminine Side Ballet flats, heels, and loafers at Men’s Weeks.

TIGHTS, DRESSES, BALLET FLATS...was this “men’s” fashion weeks in Paris and Milan?

Yes! Gender-fluid collections also featuring loafers, slight heels, dresses, and handbags were big.

Loafers starred at Junya Watanabe with the debut of its 1906R Loafer collab with New Balance (pictured). The penny loafer upper/jogger sole is more dress shoe than sneaker. Wales Bonner showed leopard print studded styles.

Tasseled patent leather loafers paired with tights and long sweaters were featured at JW Andersen.

Isaia presented an array of suede and patent loafers, and the classic horse-bit silhouette was ever present at Gucci.

Also on point: ballet flats. Dior’s artistic director of menswear, Kim Jones, created an ode to his uncle, Colin Jones, a Royal British Ballet dancer in the ’50s. Models wore brown, black, and white ballet flats with traditional suiting and boundary-pushing shorts and rompers. Short suits and flats (paired with pink socks) made a statement at Random Identities.

And at Lemaire, models sported sleek mules.

Meanwhile, oversized pants draped over buttery leather flats were seen at Dries Van Noten, and black patent leather ballet flats featuring a red lip kiss were at Balmain.

Dsquared2’s aesthetic alternated between rugged and refined. Sneakers, army, and Sasquatch boots made way for slightly heeled men’s boots.

Puffy boots also had a slight platform at Acne Studios, while Louis Vuitton featured Western heels and Rick Owens took things to new heights and widths (literally) with inflatable boots that broke the internet. Owens’ collection defied all rules of proportion, including oversized knits, blankets twisted into capes, leather jackets, and puffer vests.

Owens wasn’t the only one pushing against norms. Models at Dior and JW Andersen wore tights; Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton show was an homage to the Native American cowboy; and Fendi showed kilt-like Bermuda shorts and handbags.

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Here’s the Ticket

Shayna Fitzpatrick, senior designer/line builder for Chinese Laundry, on the portfolio’s feminine formula. By Greg Dutter

S

HAYNA FITZPATRICK CAUGHT the design bug early. Age 10, in fact. That’s when she started creating fashion sketches and began dreaming of a career as a designer. Little did she know then that one day those dreams would come true.

“When I think about my 10-year-old self, sketching and dreaming about creating something out of ideas…I still have to pinch myself that I was able to make it a reality,” says Fitzpatrick, who has been designing for Chinese Laundry and its sister brands Dirty Laundry, 42 Gold, and CL by Laundry, for 14 years.

Prior to that she designed briefly for Naughty Monkey and Not Rated and, the year before, worked in the trenches at a Nordstrom store. The latter gig came on the advice of a footwear industry friends.

“I asked how I could get started in this wonderful world of shoes that seemed almost mythical to me,” Fitzpatrick recalls. “They said that in between pounding the pavement in search of design opportunities, work the shoe sales floor at Nordstrom, because the experience will serve you well, no matter what you want to do in this industry.”

It was great advice. Selling shoes forced Fitzpatrick out of her comfort zone. It also allowed her to observe customers—what they liked and didn’t like about all sorts of styles. (A bonus: it gave her toned legs from climbing all the stairs in the stockroom every day.) But, most of all, Nordstrom is where Fitzpatrick saw how a well-oiled and curated machine delivered so much joy to customers. “It was like Christmas morning every time new inventory hit the floor,” she says, adding, “It was the added assurance I needed to pursue my dream to design shoes.”

Design (a lot of) shoes is exactly what Fitzpatrick does for Chinese Laundry’s portfolio of brands. Each is unique but tied together by a fun, feminine thread.

“We celebrate femininity in our designs with playful materials, thoughtful comfort aspects, and flattering silhouettes,” she explains. “With a history of being a go-to dress house, we embrace the art of dressing up and apply that same thought and care into all our styles, no matter the heel height or casualness of the shoe.”

Breaking it down further, Fitzpatrick says Chinese Laundry, the legacy brand, offers fashion, value, and fun. “We assort the line with versions of the most current trends, along with twists on staple items,” she says, adding that a loyal following looks to the brand for what they need in their closets each season.

Dirty Laundry offers an edgy casual and cool vibe.

“Chinese Laundry is the fashionable golden child of

the family, and DL is the younger, bold creative sister,” Fitzpatrick offers. “No matter her age, she has all the confidence and knows exactly what she wants each season. She’s not afraid to take risks—as long as she’s comfortable in her shoes.” As for 42 Gold’s place in the family? “She’s the sophisticated, older sister who studied abroad and came back with effortless style,” she says. “She enjoys the quality of luxury products.” Last but not least, Fitzpatrick describes CL by Laundry as an every type of sister brand: classic styling where comfort aspects come first.

“It’s the most affordable of our brands, and comes in wide width offerings.”

The overall themes for Fall/Winter ’24 are Legacy, an ode to quiet luxury; 9 to 5, a retro feminine play on workwear; Art Collector, an eclectic Americana vibe; and Stargazer, a holiday feeling with celestial touches, mesh, and velvet.

A highlight, Fitzpatrick says, are kitten heels in a variety of patterns. “It’s a breath of fresh air from the heavy bottoms and chunky sneakers we all have in our wardrobes,” she says. “I also feel strongly that shades of chocolate will get even bigger and just as we saw red pop, we’ll see pops in rich jewel tones like amethyst, deep teal, and ruby.” She adds, “Ballet flats and wallabees are trending, and loafers have evolved to shoetie silhouettes. I also love the retro frilly details of bows, pleats, and fabric textures.” As for a personal favorites, Fitzpatrick cites the Novva, a chic kitten heel bootie and the pumps in fresh patterns and easy heel heights.

Overall, Fitzpatrick says the portfolio continues its mission to be a source of fun and inspiration, which she believes is even more important amid world that’s quite scary and dark of late. Just like in her Nordstrom days, Fitzpatrick went to the source for confirmation. “I’ve had many conversations with the fabulous women, and what makes them inspired to spend their hard-earned cash on shoes is something that makes their heart sing,” she says. “Thus, we stay true to our branding and create product that inspires our customers. Even classic wardrobe staples need to be interesting to create a spark. We want Meow! Kitten our customers to fall in love with our shoes and give heels are fresh for them a little happiness.”

Fall/Winter ’24.

Designing for four brands must be a challenging?

Well, I have great help. The credit of what we make each season goes to our full design department, which is broken into teams to help cater to the needs and personal touches of each brand. We have a great synergy amongst our team where we all respect and admire our individual talents.

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Q&A The Porter loafer: Shayna Fitpatrick’s go-to shoe right now.

How do the team approach the start of a new season? By getting the team out of the office and away from our screens to shop! It helps to people watch in addition to seeing and touching product. It’s like a palate cleanser.

Then we get to work on research and putting together a creative direction for what we want to focus on for the upcoming season. This is followed by team brainstorms, which is our own little think tank.

How much might gut instinct factor into your design process? It’s very important. It can be about 50 percent gut instinct and 50 percent data analysis and trend research. The more you understand your brand and customer, the more instinct comes into play. When all the sample elements come together—silhouette, color, balance, workmanship, fit, and timing—into this orchestrated “it” factor, you feel it in your gut. It’s the best feeling.

Does your personal style overlap with your designs? My personal style is somewhere between retro-romantic and modern. I love all things girly, but in a kind of edgy way. I suppose this really hits on the ethos of Chinese Laundry with its feminine vibes and staple pieces.

What are some design taboos? Don’t ask a technician to correct anything under 2 mm. They won’t do it. (Laughs) Only display shoes from the outside when presenting a collection. Never mark on someone’s hand sketches. Lastly, there’s such a thing as “shoepeople shoes,” and most consumers won’t understand those styles.

What shoe must every woman have in their closet? Just one? Oof, that’s a hard question.

I’d a style that you can create an outfit around, because those shoes feel that special and specific to your personal style.

Is there a perfect shoe? A perfect shoe needs to be versatile for your wardrobe and you must be able to walk blocks in it. It also needs to look polished. For me, right now, that’s a fashionable loafer, like our Porter. The silver version has been my go-to; it’s so comfortable and I can wear it with skirts, jeans, socks, and no socks.

Who are some designers you admire? My favorite design house is Miu Miu, and always has been. I love how true to the brand Miuccia Prada is with every collection, while adding a bit of surprise. I love the retro femme spirit while still managing to make everything contemporary. They’re so fun.

What is the best design advice you’ve ever received? One of my favorite pieces of advice came from our CEO and Founder Bob Goldman. He encourages us to stand for the product we really believe in, even if no one else does yet. That’s when us designers must turn into salespeople.

What is your first shoe-related memory? It’s of a little heeled granny boot I saw in a fashion catalogue in the ’90s. I wanted them so badly. But they were pretty unpractical for my young age. Still, I’d never seen anything like them, and I fell in love. My Mom bought them for me, and there began my love affair with shoes.

What do you love most about designing? I love that designing shoes lives in so many worlds of creativity. It entails technical structure and function, which is not unlike building a house.

(My Dad is a builder) And, on a much smaller scale, it allows you to explore the landscape of fashion, art, and history. It’s a career where I can play with color one day, do technical fittings the next, and then go shop the market. It’s a win-win-win!

continued from page 17 we’ve solidified and strengthened even further. Jon has streamlined our sourcing; we were in way too many factories. We’re also changing the way we purchase materials and manage product development. That’s all strengthening the brand, overall.

We’re building the right products that offers quality and value, whether it’s a $200 or $90 shoe. Of course, we won’t always bat 1.000 when it comes to product. There will be adjustments along the way, but the strategy and the clarity around the goals is working. Plus, we’re diversified. There are a lot of different areas that we can go after. It’s about tapping into those various consumer segments, and as long as they understand who we are and like what they see, we should be in good shape.

“I want (Clarks) to be successful so the guys who got us to the dance the first time can be successful again.”

Any desire to exit stage left any time soon?

I’m still having too much fun. Plus, I wouldn’t know what I’d do if I retired. I’m reading articles about guys who are still in the work world into their 80s. Who knows? I’m inspired now, and I’m hanging around to make sure we accomplish what I came back to do.

What do you love most about your job?

It’s always the same answer: the people I work with and the culture we build together. The relationships are everything. I want to be successful so the guys who got us to the dance the first time can be successful again.

Looking back to your Clarks Americas office manager days, did you ever imagine you’d be leading the company one day?

Never. But that’s what this brand offered me, and that’s why I’m here. I raised by family off this brand.

Back when we were really growing, it was a different company every few years. There were shifts and people took advantage of them. A lot of great people working at different companies today started at Clarks, and many still work here. We created a terrific brand and culture. Why shouldn’t we do that again? • 2024 february • footwearplusmagazine.com 55

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L A S T S HO T

Swift Style

Patrizia Zodiac

Black Star

42 Gold

Ariat

Dingo Durango

Diba True

My Little Ponies Low country booties are high on style.

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