Footwear Plus | January 2024

JANUARY 2024

UNDER FIRE

DAVID BEN ZIKRY ON MANAGING SPRING FOOTWEAR IN A WAR ZONE

THIS JUST IN BOLD SOLES

VOL 34 • ISSUE 1 • $10

The Boot Issue FALL/WINTER ’24 PREVIEW

KIWI CONNECTION

HOW YY NATION IS CLEANING UP

LAST SHOT HOT FOR CHOCOLATE

24_01_FW_COVER_TM_03 GDNCindd.indd 1

12/22/23 3:30 PM

FOP JAN 2024_r1_12_21.indd 2

12/21/23 9:13 PM CYAN

FOP JAN 2024.indd 1

12/20/23 2:54 PM

J A N U A RY 2 0 2 4

EDITORIAL Greg Dutter Editorial Director

F E AT U R E S

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

12 Driven Facing rocket attacks and working from a bomb shelter, Spring Footwear CEO David Ben Zikry is pressing forward during unprecedented times.

By Greg Dutter

Kathleen O’Reilly Fashion Editor Rosemary O’Connell Art Director Kathy Passero Editor at Large Mariah Walker Style Director

20 Fall/Winter ’24 Boots Preview Key trends in men’s and women’s.

By Kathy O’Reilly 32 Winds of Change YY Nation is changing the way casual sneakers are made for the good of the planet.

By Greg Dutter 34 Posh Accents Classic silhouettes with simple, elegant details create an aura of understated luxe for town and country.

By Kathleen O’Reilly

D E PA RT M E N T S 4 Editor’s Note 6 This Just In: Bold Soles 8 Scene & Heard 31 A Note to My Younger Self

Ann Loynd Burton Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING Noelle Heffernan Publisher

PA G E

34

Lizette Chin SVP/Group Publisher Laurie Guptill Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director

Soft suede Western boots

by Black Star.

Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO

46 Upclose: Comfort 48 Last Shot

OFFICES ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL

On cover: All Black suede mod bootie with sculptured sole.

Photography: Trevett McCandliss; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; model: Briggs Rudder/Supreme Management; hair and makeup: Nevio Ragazzini/Next Artists; photo assistant: Eileen Viglietta; stylist assistant: Olivia Mannarino.

One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 Ads: Noelle.Heffernan@ Wainscotmedia.com Editorial: Greg.Dutter@ Wainscotmedia.com CIRCULATION

One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 Circ@Wainscotmedia.com

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, PO Box 300, Lincolnshire, IL 60069-0300. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.

2 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_TOCl GDNC_R1.indd 2

12/21/23 6:54 PM

Womens Hikers In Wide Widths and Extended Sizing propetfootwear.com 800-877-6738 FOP JAN 2024.indd 3

12/20/23 2:55 PM

E D I TOR’S NOT E

DREAM, BABY DREAM

Fairytale of New York IT WAS JULY 4TH eve, babe, 1994. I wasn’t in the drunk tank. Nor were the boys of the NYPD choir singing Galway Bay. But that’s the day I signed a lease on an Upper West Side apartment, marking the beginning of my own Fairytale of New York. It’s not nearly as gritty as Shane MacGowan’s Christmas classic, but it’s a tumultuous tale filled with awe, humor, humidity, frustration, wind that goes right through you, ups, downs, Hudson River sunsets, leaks, parks, odors (mostly bad), traffic, bike rides, pigeons, parenting, subways, bats, plays, so many garages, and a whole lot of takeout.

Life in the Big Apple, as the Pogues’ song says, is “no place for the old,” and it’s definitely not for the meek. You must bob, weave, pounce, and roll with the punches. You take your lumps along the way. You scratch and claw as you jockey for position among the masses of dreamers and schemers. Gotham is, as Springsteen wrote in New York City Serenade, a “mad dog’s promenade/so walk tall or, baby, don’t walk at all.”

And here I am 30 years later, still here despite having had zero intention of residing in this city for a day. Life has plot twists. A big one for me came on Jan. 28, 1990. I was at a party at a friend’s house in suburban New Jersey, and thanks to a Super Bowl XXIV 49ers blowout, I wandered over to the food spread, where I overheard his sister encourage a guest to send her his resumé. I gathered she worked in HR for a publishing company. A starving reporter, I asked if I could send one as well. Six months later, I found myself working in Manhattan at Gralla Publications, a group of trade magazines.

About a month into my new gig, I met my future apartment mate and wife—a gal from Kalamazoo (literally). A year later, I landed at Sporting Goods Business, where I was assigned to the footwear beat.

I, to paraphrase legendary New York reporter Jimmy Breslin, have become one of the eight million stories in the naked city.

That’s one of the things I love most about New York—people from all over the world come here to pursue their dreams. It’s where you can “make a brand new start of it,” and if you can make it there, you can make it anywhere, as Mr. Sinatra belts in New York, New York. The recent FFANY/FSNYE show was no exception. Within the bustling showrooms and hotels of Midtown, attendees came from near and far to pursue their footwear dreams. Three of them are featured in this issue. That’s New York, a simmering melting pot of dreamers with stories worth telling.

First up is David Ben Zikry, CEO of Spring Footwear and the subject of our Q&A (p. 12). Zikry, along with his twin brother, Avi, began pursuing their dream of building a shoe empire in 1984 when they emigrated from Israel to a rented house in Queens, NY. There, they started manufacturing shoes (sandals, primarily), selling first to area flea markets and soon after to local retailers. Fast forward 40 years and the brothers are at the helm of a comfort conglomerate (Spring Step, L’Artise, Patrizia, Azura, and Flexus) that makes millions of pairs annually in factories around the world. It’s a classic American dream-come-true story, except that, of late, the brothers are living a nightmare caused by the Hamas war. Two sons and two sons-in-law are on the front lines. A cousin was murdered. Somehow, the Zikrys continue to manage their company. They refuse to let their dream die.

It’s a sobering yet inspiring story.

Next up is Jeremy Bank, founder of YY Nation and subject of our Brand Focus (p. 32). The New Zealand–based company is committed to changing the way casual athletic footwear is manufactured—for the good of the planet. There are plenty of sustainable startups giving it a go, but the vast majority lack Bank’s industry knowhow, the cornerstone you need to build a meaningful business for the long haul. An industry veteran of 25-plus years in both wholesale and retail, Bank knows what retailers need. It goes far beyond great-looking product, which YY Nation has. Above all, his vision of eliminating harmful plastics industry-wide with renewable and biodegradable materials is dreaming really big. It’s another inspiring story.

Last but not least is Jori Miller Sherer, president of Minnetonka and the latest participant in our “A Note to My Younger Self ” series (p. 31).

Miller Sherer traveled a relatively short distance from Minnesota to attend the New York show, but she has come a long way since her early twenties. Back then, she lived in L.A. and worked in the film industry.

Doubts crept in, though, and she returned home to work in her family’s now 77-year-old business. This is no nepo story, though: Miller Sherer started at the bottom and, along the way, learned some invaluable lessons, which she shares with all of us.

Enjoy the issue, and happy New Year! I hope we all “See a better time/When all our dreams come true.”

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

4 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_ED_NOTE_final TWO (1).indd 4

12/22/23 9:05 AM

ASM-Fall-2024_FootwearPlus-FINAL.indd 1 FOP JAN 2024.indd 5

10/30/23 AM 12/21/23 10:27 6:53 AM

THIS JUST IN

Confidence Boosters Bold soles give you go-anywhere swagger.

Photography by Marcy Swingle 6 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_THIS_JUST_IN_final.indd 6

12/19/23 3:38 PM

THE BEACH LIFE

THE IR SHOW | JAN 28-30 | BOOTH 326 for wholesale inquiries, please contact 800.775.7852, logan.bird@mephistousa.com

FOP JAN 2024.indd 7

12/20/23 4:36 PM

SCENE & HEARD

The IR Show Beckons Counting the reasons why the San Diego show is a must-attend event.

CHANNELING DAVID LETTERMAN, The IR Show Co-director Gary Hauss, from the home office in Valencia, CA, fires off a Top 10 List of reasons to attend this month’s event in San Diego, (Jan. 28-30). Drumroll, please…

10. Location, Location, Location: The industry needs a large West Coast show, Hauss says. The fact that it’s (almost) always sunny and warm in San Diego is a bonus, especially when much of the country will be shivering. Add in a 10-minute cab ride from the airport to the convention center, and many downtown hotels and restaurants in walking distance to the show, and IR ’s setting is topnotch.

9. A Show for Retailers Run by The IR Show co-directors Retailers: The IR Show is manBobbi Collins and Gary Hauss aged by people with extensive retail backgrounds. The management team has walked many a show formats over their years in cities around the world. They know what works and what doesn’t. “We possess the knowledge and experience to cater to buyers’ needs,” Hauss says. That includes an easy-to-shop layout, merchandised by category, and housed under one roof. “There’s no trudging from showroom to showroom amid whatever weather Mother Nature is dealing out that day, nor do attendees have to squeeze into dimly lit hotel rooms,” he says. “The layout is easy on the feet and efficient to shop.” Hauss adds, “The show’s glass structure setting makes for ideal lighting to showcase the collections.”

8. The Price is Right: IR Show is committed to keep expenses in check whenever possible for buyers and exhibitors. “Even though we are located in a state-of-the-art convention center, we maintain small show pricing, which includes affordable booth rates and lunch options,” Hauss says. “We also offer room blocks to help lower hotel costs.”

7. Social Networking: Whether it’s in the booths, walking the aisles, attending the party, dinners, or bumping into a fellow attendee in a hotel lobby, Hauss is a firm believer that being at IR is how many business relationships can get off the ground floor. “You have to be there to see and be seen,” he says. “And your best leads may come from the most unexpected source while attending the show, but it happened because you happened to be in the right place, at the right time.”

6. Quality Control: Size isn’t everything. The overall quality of a show’s attendance is what really matters—and that goes for exhibitors and buyers. Some shows are too sprawled out; no buyer with even the best of intentions could possibly cover it all effectively in two-and-a-half days. Buyers can’t see everything; they just need to see good product.

Similarly, not every buyer necessarily makes the grade for exhibitors.

Curation matters. “Vendors can meet with some of the top retailers from across the country and retailers can shop leading brands and the latest trends across multiple key categories,” Hauss says.

5. Party Time: Attendees are invited to The IR Show’s opening night party and “Conversations Over Cocktails.” Held adjacent to the show

floor right after the day ends, Hauss will welcome Julia Gomez and Adam Beck of Beck’s Shoes for an engaging interview. In addition to delving into business-related strategies and hot button industry topics, the audience will get to know the management team leading the fifth family-generation owned, 20-plus store chain on a more personal level.

4. Free Snacks: Timed sporadically throughout the show, IR distributes popcorn, warm chocolate cookies, ice cream bars and hot coffee.

Sometimes it’s the surprise treats that can help power you through a busy day of appointments and browsing.

3. Beyond Shoes: The Services Area is a dedicated section in the show for attendees to discover companies that offer ways to improve operations.

It includes POS firms, shipping companies, digital marketing, and retail trade and charitable associations.

2. Getting Better: There’s always room for improvement. “We’re always utilizing our extensive industry relationships to brainstorm with exhibitors and retailers to gauge whether we are meeting expectations,” he says.

“Anything that comes to suggestion that can improve upon the overall show experience, we’ll take into consideration right away.”

1. The IR Show Beats Zoom: If the pandemic taught the industry anything, there’s nothing like shopping the market in person. Communicating across a table, compared to an iffy internet connection, can’t be beat. “The IR Show enables retailers and brands to get to know each other on a personal level,” Hauss says. “Our industry goes beyond product—the people aspect is just as important.”

Birkenstock Opens Fifth U.S. Flagship Miami marks Southeast expansion.

BIRKENSTOCK’S NEW FLAGSHIP, located in the Miami Design District, is in an area known for its vibrant fusion of art, fashion, and luxury. Beyond a great location, CEO Oliver Reichert describes the store opening as a pivotal moment in the brand’s 249-year history, as it represents an important aspect in its plans going forward.

“Deepening our retail footprint is an important pillar of our longterm growth strategy,” Reichert states. “In the U.S., we have some 6,600 doors, but run only five owned stores. So, there’s obviously a huge upside potential.”

In addition to housing sandals, clogs, sneakers, shoes, boots, and socks for women, men and kids, the store will offer limited-edition designer collaborations. The first is with longstanding partner, Concepts. The Arizona sandals come in four vibrant, long-haired cowhide uppers. The collection also celebrates the 10-year anniversary of the Concepts and Birkenstock partnership as well as the 50th anniversary of the Arizona sandal. “Our projects uniquely intersect Birkenstock with sneaker culture, luxury, and lifestyle,” says David Kahan, president of Birkenstock Americas. “It’s a pleasure to introduce ourselves to Miami with one of our dearest collaborators.”

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_S_H_final.indd 8

12/22/23 7:49 AM

The art of making footwear is a craft that requires skill, precision, and attention to detail.

Striving for excellence, Twisted X® has mastered the balance of comfort and craftsmanship in our finest collection of footwear to date.

Explore our entire Reserve Collection by visiting twistedx.com/reservecollection.

Copyright © 2024 Twisted X Global Brands. All Rights Reserved.

FOP JAN 2024.indd 9

12/20/23 2:56 PM

SCENE & HEARD

Ecco Opens New York Flagship The Danish brand showcases its modern, minimalist aesthetic in SoHo. manufacturing processes, is a recurring motif ECCO CLOSED OUT its 60th anniversary within the store as well. And coinciding with celebration in style with the opening of its its sustainable and ethical ambitions, plastic first-ever New York flagship, in Manhattan’s is minimized with durable leather innovations SoHo neighborhood. It is part of a relaunch used for interiors, like terrazzo-style upcycled of the brand’s 16 global flagship locations. leather tiling and counters upholstered with “Ecco is in good company in SoHo,” says tactile memory foam leather. Last but not all, Deniz Erda, recently appointed head of Ecco customers are invited to lounge on oversized US. “It’s one of the few locations in the world Ecco leather floor cushions. that we call a heart of retail, and New York Sleek is the word: the new Ecco flagship is SoHo. The store was designed in partnership with is a key market for the brand. Having a store here allows us to expand even further in the area as well as meet new Stamuli, a Swedish studio made up of creatives, architects, and technical experts that specializes in interior design for the fashion and retail potential partners.”

Designed to welcome and inspire, the 3,250-square-foot store, sectors. As such, the layout gives merchandise ample space to shine and located at the corner of Broadway and Grand St., resonates with Ecco’s be seen, according to Erda. “It’s a perfect space to highlight our core democratic, inclusive vision of the modern family, also the theme of competencies in leather, innovation, and design,” he says.

A bonus is how the store is serving as a test lab for the brand. Ecco its current marketing campaign. It features the brand’s full range of footwear and accessories as well as limited-edition items that will be has already discovered that higher-priced niche products perform available only at the SoHo location. Current exclusive capsules are by particularly well with New York customers. “We can now collaborate RAL7000 Studios and Peter Do. “The store also features our limited- even more with our New York retail partners to drive the new look and feel of Ecco,” Erda says, citing its NRL Collection, a 15-piece capsule edition Hobo bag in Ecco Apparition Leather,” Erda says.

As for the décor, the store pays homage to Ecco’s core values of inno- from new creative partner, Natacha Ramsay-Levi. Nordstrom was one vation, ambitious design, sustainability, and community. For example, of the first retailers to introduce the collection in its New York flagship. display podiums tiling calls to mind Jutland brick, a nod to the brand’s “If we can establish and grow demand in SoHo, we’ll continue to drive Danish heritage and headquarters. Aluminum, a key material in Ecco’s business for both Ecco and our partners,” Erda says.

Skaters’ Paradise Etnies celebrates 20th anniversary of hometown skatepark.

THE ETNIES SKATEPARK in Lake Forest, CA, broke ground in more ways than one when it opened 20 years ago. It was the first skatepark in the U.S. created through a public/private partnership. At the time, it was a leap of faith on the part of city officials as no one knew what impact such a facility might have on the surrounding community.

Fast forward 20 years and 1.2 million skater visits and counting later and Etnies CEOPierre Andre Senizergues says the public/private partnership has been a win-win for all parties. “For us, it’s always about providing a space where skateboarding can thrive within a city,” he says, noting the park showcases the ethos of the brand as well as hosts contests, concerts, nonprofit fundraisers, lessons, and more. “But what has exceeded our expectations is that this skatepark has set up a model for other cities around the world to follow. It

changed the way skateparks were regarded by city governments and demonstrated a path forward on how to do it successfully.”

The Etnies Skatepark at 62,000 square feet is the largest staffed public park in North America. Owned and operated by the City of Lake Forest, it serves as a destination for local skaters and pros from around the world, including visits by legends Tony Hawk, Steve Caballero, and Rob Dyrdek. The park has also been a breeding ground for Lake Forest locals Aidan Campbell, Daniel Vargas, and Dylan Witkin, who’ve honed their craft on its bowls, ramps, and rails, and turned professional.

To commemorate the park’s anniversary, Etnies and city officials recently brought the community together for a day of performances by top pro skateboarders followed by autograph sessions. Pros Fabiana Delfino, Nassim Lachhab, Ryan Sheckler, Julian Lewis, Andy Anderson, Amelia Brodka and Sean Sheffey attended.

“Nothing makes me prouder than to see the skatepark packed with kids; it shows that an entire community has rallied around it and enjoys it,” Senizergues says.

“Memories have been created, and Etnies is at the center of each of those experiences. It’s because we created something that is authentic and a perfect representation of who we are.”

Left to right: Lake Forest Council Member Scott Voigts, pro Sean Sheffey, Mayor Doug Cirbo, Etnies CEO Pierre Andre Senizergues, and pro Ryan Sheckler.

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_S_H_final.indd 10

12/22/23 7:49 AM

5611894880_OL.FtwrPlus.RedCoatGirl.Hyb+Recyc.o.mech3.indd FOP JAN 2024.indd 11 1

12/20/23 6:57 12/21/23 4:32 PM AM

Q&A

BY GREG

DUTTER

DRIVEN

Fa c i n g r o c k e t a t t a c k s w h i l e w o r k i n g f r o m a b o m b s h e l t e r, D a v i d B e n Z i k r y, C E O a n d c o f o u n d e r o f S p r i n g F o o t w e a r C o r p o r a t i o n , d i s c u s s e s how the company is pressing forward during unprecedented times.

ON THE MORNING of Oct. 7, 2023, David Ben Zikry’s 28-year-old cousin was walking her dogs, just as she did every day in Sderot, Israel. This, however, would be her last peaceful morning routine. Hamas terrorists were on the rampage and shot her. She ran for her life, hiding in nearby bushes, where she bled to death. The family thought she had been kidnapped until her body was found four days later. Hers was one of several funerals that Ben Zikry and his brother, Avi, president and cofounder of Spring Footwear Corporation (makers of L’Artiste, Patrizia, Spring Step, Azura, and Flexus), have attended in the past few months.

“We know families of people who’ve been killed—neighbors who lost their sons,” Ben Zikry says. “Seeing people lose their lives, young children kidnapped or killed in their bedrooms, families being torn apart…The images are horrifying, and it’s all devastating.”

The Ben Zikry twins had been in Israel for about a month prior to the Oct. 7 attack. They were celebrating the Jewish holidays with their large extended families, as they do every year. (David has five children, ages 15 to 28, and Avi has six, ages 13 to 28.) They were in their homes in Tel Aviv and were awakened around 7 a.m. by air raid sirens. That was nothing out of the ordinary. The families knew the drill. They raced to their bomb shelters and awaited the all-clear. But their smartphones and TVs were soon flooded with news and rumors warning that this was no ordinary attack. This was bigger, more coordinated, more sustained, and much, much more lethal. “We were receiving emails and texts from friends that there were men on motorcycles shooting people at random,” Ben Zikry recalls. “It’s a small country, and almost every day since then we’ve heard about a neighbor who has also lost a family member.”

By the end of that terrible October day, David’s son, who is married with two children, and Avi’s son, who is married and has a young daughter, reported for duty with the Israeli army. So did both of their sons-in-law.

As of press time, Avi’s son was serving on the border of Lebanon, and David’s son was in the West Bank. The two sons-in-law were fighting in 12 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_Q_A_final.indd 12

12/21/23 8:16 AM

CLASSIC COMFORT. INSIDE AND OUT.

Clarks® indoor/outdoor slippers for men, women and kids

Visit us at the

Atlanta Shoe Market Show Booth #1617-1716

Distributed by info@greenmkt.net (508) 587-8661 greenmarketservices.com © 2023 Green Market Services Co., Inc.

FOP JAN 2024.indd 13

12/20/23 2:57 PM

Q&A

Gaza. “We try to communicate by text on a daily basis, although they cannot always respond right away,” Ben Zikry says. “It’s just not possible every day. It’s tough.”

Amid all this fear, disruption, stress, death, sadness, and uncertainty, the Ben Zikry brothers have somehow managed to keep working. In fact, in the first few weeks following the attack, they often sent work emails from the family bomb shelters as Hamas rockets regularly streaked toward Tel Aviv. While it hasn’t been business as usual by any means, the brothers have pressed forward. They returned to the company’s Florida headquarters in November and attended FFANY market week later that month in New York, then held their annual sales meeting before returning to Israel.

“We remain very immersed in our business on a daily basis, continuing to do what we have to do,” Ben Zikry says. “Work is a way to escape into our routines and to continue our lives, despite all these added challenges.”

The fact is that Israel is always either under attack or facing imminent threat of attack, according to Ben Zikry. “It’s been that way our whole lives,” he says, noting that he and his brother served in the Israeli army from 1989 to 1990 and experienced combat.

“It’s our history. It’s something we’re used to, even though you never get ‘used’ to it.” The other sad fact, Ben Zikry adds, is they can’t escape this war entirely. Israel is their home. “It’s where we were born and raised, and it’s where our wives, kids, parents, brothers, and sisters live,” he says. Uprooting their entire families isn’t a realistic option. Plus, the United States doesn’t necessarily offer a safe alternative: When Ben Zikry left the company’s Manhattan showroom during the recent FFANY show, he came across a horde of pro-Palestine protestors.

“Seeing people cheering support of people who murdered my cousin as well as more than 1,200 other innocent people was just devastating and scary,” he says. “That was in New York, so this war is everywhere. We can’t escape it. There’s no safe place, really. It’s a global problem.”

But, as Ben Zikry sees it, life must go on. Fleeing, trying to hide, cashing out, retiring—these are not desirable options, even if they’re feasible. The brothers love their work, their employees, and the company they’ve built together far too much to check out. “Work is a very important part of our lives,” Ben Zikry says. “We’re going to continue doing what we love to do.”

Since launching Spring Footwear 33 years ago, the company has registered upwards of 20 percent growth nearly every year. It has become a cornerstone comfort conglomerate. Even this past year, when much of the industry struggled, Spring Footwear reported growth. “It was nothing major, but we maintained our business in what has definitely

been a tough retail environment,” Ben Zikry says.

He attributes the company’s success to its strong portfolio of brands, featuring a diversification of product that caters to all retail tiers. In addition, he believes Spring Footwear’s unique business model—which includes carrying 500,000-plus pairs of inventory each season—separates it from the pack. In fact, Ben Zikry is bullish on 2024 and is expecting the company to resume its normal annual growth rate. “FFANY was a good success for us,” he reports. “All our key customers were positive despite challenges they’re facing. We’re outperforming in the space, and they’re allocating more of their dollars to us.”

Spring Footwear’s relentless drive to introduce fresh designs every season also helps them best the competition. “Consumers aren’t looking for basic stuff; they’re looking for something unique, something that inspires them,” Ben Zikry says. “We bring a lot of innovation. We’re showing consumers and retailers something they haven’t seen before, and they’re attracted to it.”

Such success isn’t easily attained, of course. The Ben Zikrys are tireless perfectionists. Few are willing or able to match their 18-hour, six-day-a-week schedule. It’s a pace that hasn’t slowed—except during the aforementioned year of military

service—since they arrived in the U.S. in 1984 and began manufacturing shoes in a house they rented in Queens, NY. From local flea markets to area independents to national chains to a global presence, they keep finding ways to innovate and expand their business.

“Our ability to continually grow is based on innovation and newness, season after season,” Ben Zikry says, noting that only a small percentage of the collections are repeated from one season to the next. “We’re constantly reinventing ourselves and moving forward on design to maintain excitement in our shoes.”

How are you coping with all that’s going on?

Navigating the past few months has indeed been an unprecedented challenge for myself and Avi personally and professionally. Balancing our business with our family lives amid the ongoing tragic events in Israel has added a layer of complexity.

The experience of being directly affected by the conflict has been profound and devastating. Yet we’re fortunate to be able to work remotely, ensuring our safety while managing the responsibilities of an international business. Plus, we have an amazing team of tremendously talented and extremely dedicated employees helping us. Many of them have

OF F T HE CU F F What are you reading? I’m currently engrossed in What It Takes by Stephen Schwarzman.

It delves into the essentials of growth and the unwavering dedication required to build a successful company.

What was the last movie or series you watched? Lately, I’ve been dedicating my screen time to staying informed on the latest news in Israel.

to be uninspiring. I believe in approaching challenges with a mindset of finding solutions.

What is inspiring you right now? The dedication and passion of our team members is incredibly inspiring. Their commitment to our shared goals and the positive workplace culture we’ve all cultivated fuels my enthusiasm to lead and contribute to our collective success.

Who is your most coveted dinner guest? Warren Buffett is my ultimate dinner guest.

His wisdom and insights into business and finance are truly unparalleled.

Where is your moment of Zen? When I’m in the creative process, innovating, and finding solutions to challenges. It brings me a sense of tranquility.

What is your least favorite word or phrase? I find the phrase, “It is not possible”

What is your Kryptonite? My constant pursuit of perfection can be likened to Kryptonite. It’s

a never-ending battle that comes with being a perfectionist.

What is the perfect shoe? It’s one that seamlessly blends comfort and style. It’s a shoe you choose to wear not out of necessity but because you genuinely want to, and it’s not only comfortable but makes you feel good emotionally.

What is your motto? Our company motto is: Making dreams a reality, which encapsulates our commitment to turning aspirations into tangible achievements.

Any New Year’s resolutions? It’s not new, but my focus for this year is on the continual growth of our diverse business channels and the ongoing commitment to inspire through innovative design.

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_Q_A_final.indd 14

12/21/23 8:16 AM

FOP JAN 2024.indd 15

12/20/23 5:23 PM

Q&A

been with us for over 20 years. We couldn’t do it without them.

Running from missile fire, family members serving on the front lines, a cousin murdered…that’s w aymore than an added layer of complexity.

It is. But we can’t just choose an easy life. It’s a challenging situation, and we cannot just escape the problem. It’s a complex world. I hope there will be a solution and the war will end soon, but unfortunately it looks like it’s going to be a long process.

Yet you both are still able to focus on your jobs under such stress.

Since we’re both shoe addicted and workaholics, our natural choice is to stay focused on our day-to-day responsibilities during these challenging times. We immerse ourselves in a busy schedule as an escape, really. Work is the place where we feel comfortable and the safest. It provides a sense of normalcy and redirects our attention from the depressing news. Watching the news all day and not being able to do anything would be too upsetting. So managing emails while hiding in a bomb shelter…that reflects our determination to maintain our business as well as our daily lives.

From a business perspective, has this been more challenging than the pandemic?

Each presents distinct challenges. The pandemic impacted our business on a broader scale, but we learned valuable lessons and implemented effective strategies over that time. This situation hits closer to home with family members

actively involved in defending Israel. It’s a whole new set of challenges that are more personal and localized, which emphasizes the resilience we need to navigate these unprecedented times. And while it’s certainly not a life-anddeath situation, the shoe business is a lot like operating in a war zone. We have major conflicts, we’re constantly building new products and developing new strategies, we’re working with customers and vendors, we’re responding to pricing challenges, addressing logistical issues, etc., etc. There are a lot of moving parts around the world that take place at the same time. We need to be as close as possible to product, inventory, planning, and production to make sure it’s all running smoothly as possible, because it’s easy to lose ground in this business. We can’t afford to be distracted. At the same time, it’s a nice distraction from the real war.

How’s business since the war began?

Fortunately, the majority of our business is done in the U.S. Therefore, it hasn’t affected us that much in terms of overall sales. But we do conduct business in Israel, and obviously that’s taking on a drastic change because of the war.

That said, facing challenges is not new to us. The entrepreneurial journey often feels like navigating a battlefield, and we’ve become accustomed to overcoming obstacles. Thankfully, the strategic advantage of our worldwide partnerships has positioned us well in this market. Our diverse presence, from specialty stores to national accounts and online partners, allows us to navigate disruptions with resilience. Additionally, our segmented approach and global sourcing capabilities contribute to agility and the ability to bring

The world’s leading international footwear trade fair

← A new magazine is live now scan the QR code & discover more

MICAM Milano 97 FW 2024-2025 collections February 18-21, 2024 fieramilano (Rho) → scan the QR code & discover more

#micam #micammag micam.it

24_01_FW_Q_A_final.indd 16

12/22/23 9:14 AM

Q&A

value to the market at a faster pace. By not relying on a single channel, we’ve avoided putting all our eggs in one basket, providing an adaptable framework for addressing challenges and ensuring sustained success.

And it’s back to double digit growth this year. What is fueling that?

Our future orders for spring are up by that amount, and fall is looking to be the same. We had a great response at FFANY. So we’re confident we’ll hit those numbers. Beyond that, the U.S. is a big country, and a lot of people in our target customer age range of 35 and up need and want shoes. It’s an overall growing segment that wants something comfortable but looks beautiful. That’s right in our wheelhouse. So we believe we can continue to grow within that segment moving forward.

Easier said than done, correct?

It’s a very complex business that I don’t think is for everyone. There are several companies within our space that have been struggling of late. Rockport, for example, collapsed, and there are a few other major brands that have had issues. So people have been increasingly looking to us an alternate sourcing partner to help grow their business because we continue deliver. They’ve been doing well with our brands. Like anyone, retailers are analyzing their businesses and putting more toward what’s working and less into what isn’t.

While the business overall looks to remain flat for the immediate future, there are companies that can grab a bigger share of the pie. Fortunately, we’re one of them.

24_01_FW_Q_A_final.indd 17

Is it a particular brand or distribution tier that’s performing well?

L’Artiste is definitely growing within specialty accounts, and we’re also doing well with Spring Step and Patrizia, which is mostly in key accounts. Overall, our diversification of product is a big key to our success. We segment products for each brand, which basically requires making three different lines within each brand. That’s why we make so many styles, because we don’t want to sell everybody the same shoes, especially our large customers that demand a lot of exclusivity. Diversification is what makes our company unique. It requires a lot of investment and innovation.

Again, easier said than done.

Ours is a very complex business model. Basically, we rebuild our entire company each season. We rip it down and start all over again. We have to rewrite the playbook, and ours is really big. It’s not easy, but if it were, anyone could do it.

It helps having a twin brother as a business partner who is equally dedicated.

With Avi focused on product development, design, factories, and vendors, I can concentrate on operations, finances, and HR. We make a great team, and we have a great team supporting us. We’re all very passionate about what we do, and we have the necessary ingredients in place to make it work.

Like the ability and willingness to carry 500,000 pairs in inventory each season?

Yes. Specialty stores, in particular, rely on our in-stock inventory to respond to weekly fill-ins. That’s the beauty of our business model—they don’t >47

12/22/23 9:14 AM

Footwear Plus Ad MARIO_Atlanta_12/21/2023

FOP JAN 2024_r1_12_21.indd 18

12/21/23 5:02 PM

FOP JAN 2024_r1_12_21.indd 19

12/21/23 5:02 PM

TRE NEDN S TTI N TR DPSOT P OT I NGG

TALL ORDERS Go big and bold in high-shafted boots.

ATP Atelier

NeroGiardini

Stivali

Bos. & Co.

Akira

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_TRDS_final.R3.indd 20

12/22/23 8:47 AM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Fly London Joyfolie

Steve Madden

Diba True

Alegria

IT’S A CINCH

Propét

Decorative and functional, buckles kick it up a notch.

2024 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

24_01_FW_TRDS_final.R3.indd 21

12/21/23 2:31 PM

T R ETN T ITN RD E NSDPSOT P OT I NGG

WORKS WELL The classic silhouette clocks in for another season.

Taft

Twisted X

Lamo

Georgia Boot

22 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_TRDS_final.R3.indd 22

12/21/23 2:32 PM

ARTISANAL

by nature

FW | 2024 COLLECTION

Style HARUKO

springfootwear.com | 800.962.0030

FOP JAN 2024.indd 23

Springfootwear

UPCOMING TRADE SHOWS

12/21/23 2:39 PM

T R ETN T ITN RD E NSDPSOT P OT I NGG

The Original Muck Boot Company

Merrell

SPLASH GUARDS Ve r s a t i l e r a i n b o o t i e s k e e p M o t h e r N a t u r e a t b a y.

Xero Shoes

Ugg

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_TRDS_final.R3.indd 24

12/21/23 2:34 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

LOOK SHARP Sleek Chelsea boots transition s e a m l e s s l y f r o m t h e o ff i c e t o a f t e r h o u r s .

Diba True

Ecco

Geox

NeroGiardini

2024 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

24_01_FW_TRDS_final.R3.indd 25

12/21/23 2:34 PM

T R E N D S P OT T I N G

Voile Blanche

Zodiac

Steve Madden

DuoBoots

WOOLY PULPIT

A textural detail that preaches cozy style.

26 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_TRDS_final.R3.indd 26

12/21/23 2:35 PM

EDUCATIONAL OPPORTUNITY for footwear families

Did you know the Two Ten Footwear Foundation awards more than $750,000 in educational funding annually?

Two Ten's higher education scholarships make earning a college degree or pursuing post-secondary vocational and technical training more affordable for footwear employees and their families.

Two Ten's upskilling and professional development grants provide more flexible options for women in the footwear industry seeking to sharpen their skills or earn professional certifications to help advance their careers.

Our goal is offering educational opportunity to lift lives.

Visit twoten.org to learn more. You can even nominate someone you know who might be interested in one of our programs and we’ll send info about how to apply.

Applications for 2024-2025 academic year scholarships are due April 5, 2024. Applications for upskilling and professional development grants are accepted all year.

twoten.org

Find us at The Atlanta Shoe Market Join Two Ten’s Women in the Footwear Industry (WIFI) Community for a Networking Cocktail Hour Sunday, February 18, 6:00-7:00PM in the Retailer’s Lounge at The Atlanta Shoe Market, Cobb Galleria, Mall Level FOP JAN 2024.indd 27

12/21/23 2:39 PM

T R ETN T ITN RD E NSDPSOT P OT I NGG

TRAIL FIX Ve r s a t i l e h i k e r s f o r t h e trails less and well-travelled.

Geox

Propét

Ecco

Teva

28 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_TRDS_final.R3.indd 28

12/21/23 2:35 PM

2024 SPEAKERS

NAOT - OMNI - ONFOOT - OS1st - PARCEL MANAGEMENT GROUP - PIKOLINOS - REVERE

THE MAY EVENT

Striving to exceed your expectations!

AETREX - APIS - ARA - BANKCARD USA - BURTEN DISTRIBUTION - CLARKS - ECCO

FEETURES - FLUCHOS - FOOTWEAR PLUS - GABOR - GEOX - LIBERTY - MEPHISTO

APRIL 29-MAY 1 THE HILTON LAKE LAS VEGAS

REGISTER TODAY!

USRAonline.org

661-367-4816

TAOS - TEAMWORK - THE IR SHOW - TWO TEN - VIONIC - WELLNESS FOUNDATION FOP JAN 2024.indd 29

12/21/23 2:40 PM

T R ETN T ITN RD E NSDPSOT P OT I NGG

YODELAYHEEHOO! Alpine-inspired hikers sing with rugged style.

Aetrex

Candice Cooper

Diba True Patrizia

30 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_TRDS_final.R3.indd 30

12/21/23 2:37 PM

A N OT E T O M Y Y OU N G E R S E L F

YOU CAN GO HOME AGAIN Jori Miller Sherer, president of Minnetonka, reflects on the life lessons learned running a fourth generation-owned, family business.

of yourself. You keep learning—like how sales channels interact DEAR 20-YEAR-OLD JORI, are you sitting down? You’ll and feed each other. By working closely with sales reps, you gain never believe this, but you’re the President of Minnetonka, your a special appreciation for independent accounts, some of whom family’s 77-year-old business where you never thought you’d work! have sold Minnetonka for decades. Customers and consumers Your parents never, ever encouraged this and yet, here you are. who share their Minnetonka memories is inspiring and humbling.

How did this happen?

You embrace your family’s entrepreneurial spirit. Lesson #5: Past While working in the film industry in L.A. after college, doubts success doesn’t guarantee future success. Evolve, always. creep in. You won’t admit this to family and friends back home in In March of 2017, you have your first kid. In January of 2019, Minnesota, but you miss the seasons. You actually miss snow! As you have your last kid. Everything changes. you start to think about where and how you Lesson #6: There is no life-work balance. want to build your adult life, you return to There’s never enough time. Just be grateful this nagging question: What would be more you married the best guy, and you discover meaningful than working at Minnetonka? the privilege of a wonderful nanny.

Life lesson #1: Listen to your intuition.

You’ll face your greatest challenge to After moving back home, you repeatdate from 2020 to 2023. You help steer edly ask Dad (Minnetonka CEO David Minnetonka through a pandemic, cultural Miller) about working at the company, unrest in your hometown after George and he keeps rejecting you! Finally, you Floyd’s murder, and how to approach ask if he is rejecting you to see if you’re reconciling Minnetonka’s past. It took serious about this career move. Yes, he time to understand that the company was admits. But first you both agree that you built on cultural appropriation. Then it need more footwear experience. So you took time to get past the paralyzing fear of aim high—a job at Nordstrom’s Mall of what to do about it. That first conversation America store. While you fill out their job with that first Native American advisor application online, you decide to also hand is the start of the most important thing deliver your resume to every manager in that you will do in your career, which is the shoe department. You get an interview. leading Minnetonka’s reconciliation work Now this sounds made up, but on the day with the Native American community. you receive a letter from Nordstrom HR Lesson #7: Reconciliation work changes stating there are no open positions, you you and changes Minnetonka. It’s deeply receive a call from the BP Shoe Manager Jori Miller Sherer, circa age 20. personal, it’s not easy, and there are risks offering you a job. Lesson #2: Always involved. But Minnetonka is a better comtake the extra initiative. Your experience pany for it. And you become a better person and parent. working as Assistant Manager in the Salon department for a year While I’d love to say it’s been smooth sailing since, alas no! is incredibly formative. Lesson #3: Never underestimate great Navigating a business through a pandemic is tough. But you, Dad customer service or the needs of consumers. and cousin, Davis, led Minnetonka through this time. Your shared You start at Minnetonka in the fall of 2010. You’re first role is values to always do right by employees and retail partners help Sales Support Assistant. You report to Scott Sessa, president, who guide you. You’re grateful to every employee for doing a fantastic served from 2006-’19 and is now with Twisted X. Scott becomes a job through such uncertainty, fear, and change. A silver lining great mentor! Starting off with a manager who isn’t your Dad is an amid the remote work and school is a slippers boom. That is until excellent opportunity to learn—and a smart way to integrate into the market becomes flooded with slippers. You can’t imagine how the company separately from your family. Lesson #4: A willingmany times you’ll say the words “global supply chain crisis.” And ness to ask questions and learn is the best attitude. It also shows you’re insanely tired at times with two toddlers at home. Smooth your colleagues that you’re here for the right reasons. sailing it is not.

It’s in the blood. You have a passion for product. You love learning Lesson #8: Leading a family business while raising a family about heavyweight vs. lightweight suedes, shearling vs. pile lining, involves an endless To Do list and new challenges. Perhaps you how to make sandals vs. slippers…you soak it all in. You think it’ll can only imagine it now, but you make the right choice to leave take until retirement age to memorize the 250 style numbers in L.A. and come home. You’ll never feel more fulfilled! our main line, but you do it in a year. You’re embarrassingly proud

2024 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 31

24_01_NTMYS_FW_final.indd 31

12/21/23 2:42 PM

b r a n d f o c u s : YY N AT I O N

WINDS OF CHANGE YY Nation is changing the way casual sneakers are made for the good of the planet. By Greg Dutter

J

EREMY BANK, founder and president of YY Nation, grew up in the windiest city in the world—Wellington, New Zealand. Not surprisingly, perhaps, Bank took up windsurfing at age 14 and fell in love with the sport. While working part-time in local shoe stores during high school and college, he saved enough money to make annual trips with friends to Hawaii to windsurf Maui’s pristine beaches. Fast forward 20 years and Bank returned with his family for a holiday and was shocked to see the amount of plastic waste washed up on those beloved beaches.

“It wasn’t there 20 years go, and in just that span the impact was dramatic,” Bank recalls. “What would it be like for future generations? I decided then and there to do something about it.” Specifically, Bank asked himself: “Why” is this happening and “why” can’t he do something about it? Hence the name YY Nation, a sustainably made casual sneaker line that he began developing in 2018.

Founder Jeremy Bank is all about natural materials, like these wool and pineapple husk leather uppers.

Over the ensuing three years Bank, a shoe and apparel retail and manufacturing veteran of 25-plus years, partnered with pioneers in the materials and technology industries to bring his vision to reality. YY Nation incorporates renewable and biodegradable materials such as merino wool, bamboo, pineapple leather, algae, sugarcane, castor oil, and, the latest, hemp and cactus leather into its designs. The shoes are lightweight, comfortable, durable, and look just like traditionally made sneakers. In fact, the untrained eye would be hard-pressed to see or feel a difference between cactus and genuine leather. It’s just that the former doesn’t include plastics that clog landfills for thousands of years and leach harmful chemicals. “Our goal is to eliminate oil-based plastics in the footwear industry,” Bank says.

32 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_BrandFocus_final.indd 32

12/21/23 2:45 PM

That’s dreaming big, as more than 99 percent of sneakers are currently made from durable and cheap plastics. But, the way Bank sees it, you’ve got to start somewhere. “Eliminating plastic in footwear is a super-big challenge that requires a lot of science and development, and that’s exactly what our team has been focused on,” he explains. “We started from the ground up, literally, looking at crops and raw natural materials that could be developed into components that were suitable for footwear.”

Bank says it’s been a fascinating endeavor, as the natural properties of the materials prove to be better on many levels compared to man-made ones.

Merino wool, for example, is soft durable, and features temperature-regulating and moisture-wicking properties. The free-range sheep come down from New Zealand’s southland high country for their annual shearing. It’s all ethically sourced and traceable. Bamboo is lightweight, breathable, and renewable. Pineapple leather, made from discarded leaves that would otherwise be burned by farmers and contribute to greenhouse gas emissions, is durable. It also provides a new revenue stream for farmers. Last but not all, the natural-colored algae outsoles, combined with recycled rubber, are lightweight and flexible.

The otherwise harmful algae blooms are harvested from lakes and other waterways.

Bank notes that there are more natural materials in the pipeline, as it’s a rapidly evolving field. “We’ve had a phenomenal reaction to our Hemp and Cactus lines with new styles coming in 2024,” he reports. “And we’re working hard on new natural materials for 2025. We call it, ‘Wonder made Wearable.’”

YY Nation’s efforts to change the world have not been without its share of challenges. This is no small undertaking, after all. Plus, launching in the middle of a pandemic introduced unforeseen hurdles. Like the factory the company heavily invested into went out of business. Costs across the board also rose, many components became in short supply, and delays ensued—all very costly for a startup. If that wasn’t tough enough, the pineapple plantation YY Nation partners with experienced a volcanic eruption, destroying the crops. “It’s been hard at times, but we’ve preserved with our vision, and it’s been incredibly rewarding,” Bank says.

To be fair, there are many brands embracing sustainable design to varying degrees, but also with varying degrees of authenticity. There is a lot of noise and suspicion in the space. That’s why Bank believes transparency and honesty is the best policy. It’s why he also welcomes imitators—when it comes to the use of proven sustainable materials. It helps chip away at that 99 percent-plus plastics usage. Even so, Bank believes YY Nation is quite unique, which stems largely from his extensive retail background. He’s not some eco-friendly interloper coming to the industry with a concept, but no clue on how to actually sell and manage a brand. “I appreciate the pressures and needs that retailers have. I understand the flexibility of good suppliers and how they should

partner and support retailers,” he says. “Retailers must receive products on time, have good sell-through and reliable margins, have an ability to adjust for good returns, and know they have our full support from us to merchandise, market, and adapt.” Bank adds, “It’s not what we sell-in that matters, it’s the sell-through that counts.” He uses the analogy of New Zealand’s legendary All Blacks rugby team, which have been world champions many times over.

“They do the basics very well, and that’s what we do at YY Nation.”

Bank isn’t just blowing shoe industry smoke. Previous roles included retail management (he and his wife owned the Shoe Connection chain prior to launching YY Nation), design and development of new retail concepts, marketing, line building, and manufacturing. “You could say shoes are in my blood, as my grandfather started a business in 1938, and I sold my first shoes on the shop floor at age 12,” he says, noting that his son, who recently joined YY Nation, marks the fourth generation to enter the industry.

It helps, he adds, to be surrounded by an “incredible” team of talented and passionate scientists, designers, retailers, administrators, financiers, and advisors.

“Footwear retailing and manufacturing is in our blood; our focus and experience in the industry is what separates us from many startup brands,” Bank says. “We’ve developed a high reputation for quality and performance. When people try our product, it’s like an aha moment!”

Green is good: catctus leather (top) Those ahas are translating into strong and merino woool uppers pair with sales, according to Bank. And that’s in soles made with Algae or sugarcane. the face of a tough retail headwinds in 2023, thanks to high inflation and general consumer uncertainty caused in part by wars in Ukraine and the Middle East. “Fortunately, YY Nation is fresh and new, and despite the challenges we’ve experienced significant growth,” he reports, adding that the brand’s 18 percent rate on customers returning after three months to buy another pair is noteworthy. “They’re also telling their friends. This reinforces that we’re on track, as word-of-mouth has always been the best form of advertising.”

YY Nation customers are primarily what Bank calls “ZMs,” which span late Gen Z to early Millennials. “Our customers enjoy travel and adventure, experiencing life,” he says. “Style comes first, followed by function and comfort.

The fact our shoes (SRP: $88 up to $148) are some of the most natural on the planet is a bonus.” The brand’s broad appeal has Bank targeting a range of channels, including comfort and outdoor specialty, family, surf, and boutiques.

“We love working with quality retailers who can tell the YY Nation story and provide great service,” he says.

Looking to 2024 and beyond, Bank says the goals for YY Nation are to (always) get greener and continue to grow. “We know we can do better; we’re working towards 100-percent circularity and making further progress in biodegradable technologies,” he says, adding that the company is projecting annual sales growth this year of four times over 2023. “We’re working to become a negative carbon company that makes the most sustainable shoes in the world—ones that people love and other brands aspire to manufacture like us. Ultimately, we want to preserve nature’s playgrounds for future generations to enjoy.” • 2024 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 33

24_01_FW_BrandFocus_final.indd 33

12/21/23 2:45 PM

24_01_FW_FASHION_OPENER_R1.indd 34

12/21/23 6:59 PM

Diba True side-zip leather ankle boots.

35

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05.indd 35

12/22/23 10:07 AM

36

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05.indd 36

12/21/23 5:32 PM

Wedge riding boots with cork footbed

by Aetrex. Opposite page: Remonte block heel booties.

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05.indd 37

12/21/23 5:32 PM

38

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05.indd 38

12/21/23 5:32 PM

Western-inspired mixed material boots by Teva.

39

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05.indd 39

12/21/23 5:33 PM

40

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05.indd 40

12/21/23 5:33 PM

Stivali leather boots with lace closures and rubber soles.

Opposite page: braided buckle strap booties by Zodiac.

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05.indd 41

12/21/23 5:33 PM

42

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05 42

12/22/23 9:34 AM

Clockwise from top left: Geox block heel suede ankle boot; Ariat suede riding boot; Dansko clog bootie; Naot side-zip shoetie; Beautiisoles bold chain combat boot; embossed leather ankle boot by Elizée.

43

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05 43

12/22/23 9:35 AM

Steve Madden leather knee-high boots.

Opposite page: lightweight lug sole wedge booties by Cougar.

Fashion editor: Kathleen O’Reilly; styling: Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; model: Briggs Rudder/Supreme Management; hair and makeup: Nevio Ragazzini/Next Artists; photo assistant: Eileen Viglietta; stylist assistant: Olivia Mannarino.

44

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05.indd 44

12/21/23 5:34 PM

45

24_01_FW_FASHION_TM GD NC_05.indd 45

12/21/23 5:35 PM

U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Tailor Made Voile Blanche weaves a sartorial blend of urban style.

PERHAPS IT’S ONLY fitting—like a well-made Italian suit—that tailoring is at the heart of Voile Blanche’s overall aesthetic. That’s because Brand Manager Alessandro Bisconti, who took the helm of the then eight-year-old label in 2012, hails from an apparel background. Everything about the brand, a division of Falc S.p.A., is seen through that refined lens.

“Tailoring is at the very heart of the brand, its essence,” Bisconti explains. “Every detail is studied to the last detail—from concepting through product realization, because with the vastness of choice in the marketplace, that’s where a difference can be made. Tailoring, for us, is synonymous with good taste, style, and a genuine way of being Italian.”

Voile Blanche’s “continuous search for sartorial quality,” as stated on its website, is segmented into Active, City, and Urban collections. Styles (SRP: $270-$374) span trainers to hybrid hikers to dressier Chelsea boots and chunky loafers. The unifying theme is versatility, comfort, and a pinch of panache. “Our styles are comfortable, innovative, and always with an eye for elegance,” Bisconti offers. “Sometimes, we include an element of swagger aimed at younger consumers, but it’s never arrogant or too loud.” He adds, “Our styles feature an incredible lightness, superior fit, and the absolute comfort of athletic shoes.”

Signature design elements of Voile Blanche include clean materials and lines. “We use materials that, until us, were mainly used in clothing—like felt, shearling, laminates, and mirror fabrics,” Bisconti says. “We also feature rubber injections, giving our styles three-dimensionality in the uppers.”

Silhouettes span low to high and minimal to bold.

“We offer our customers variety, so they don’t have to conform to a single silhouette.”

That target customer is sophisticated, curious, and loves beautiful things, according to Bisconti.

They’re also discriminating. “The Voile Blanche customer isn’t just a person who buys to buy, rather they carefully choose what to wear to suit their unique personalities,” he says. “For women, it’s the exaltation of femininity. For men, it’s a sporty taste, but always aimed at urban uses for both.”

For Fall/Winter ’24, specifically, that translates to warm materials, such as shearling, felt, wool, and suede. Another key material is recycled nylons, which are lightweight and an eco-friendly talking point.

The season’s tone-on-tone palette is understated—a reflection of a somber world. Think soft shades, like ecru, chestnut, dusty rose, and camel. As for a

optimistic about 2024. “Last year the world seemed to stop and reflect, which is changing the way consumers buy fashion,” he says. “Consumers are buying more consciously, choosing special items that stand out from the crowd.

It’s a call for companies to The Voile Blanche recipe: do better at paying attention sporty with a chic twist. to consumer demands and intrinsic product value.”

Bisconti believes this macro shopping shift is right up Voile Blanche’s alley. It’s reflected in the brand’s strong sales of late. “Our turnover rates are growing, as is the number of customers overall,” he reports. “We’ve expanded into new countries, which include the top retailers in Europe, Asia, and now the States.” Indeed, Bisconti is bullish on future growth. “As long as we explore new worlds design muse, Bisconti doesn’t point to a particular and continue to innovate, we’ll create styles that person, place, or thing. “Inspiration comes from distinguish us from everyone else, and consumers everything around us—an elegant world that values around the world will embrace our products,” he good taste and isn’t afraid to try new things and says, noting that will expand to include dressier dare to mix in elements not necessarily related to styles as well as bags in the not too distant future. the world of sport footwear.”

“The best is yet to come!” —Greg Dutter Voile Blanche’s sustainably designed Hybro collection, which debuted last year, is such an example. The classic basketball (Hybro City) and jogging (Hybro Run) silhouettes look like traditional sneakers, but unlike most athletic shoes on the market, leave a lighter carbon footprint. OneWhat is the best busithird lighter, in fact. Sustainable materials include ness advice you’ve recycled cotton linings, reprocessed apple cores ever received? Talent and skins uppers, sugarcane as outsole filler, and is a precious gift, but persistence in achieving recycled plastic laces. Bisconti says the collection goals is the true basis reflects Voile Blanche’s drive to always be innovating Alessandro Bisconti for success. These words coupled with its commitment to leave the world a have proven to be very true in various situations better place. “People talk a lot about sustainability, over the course of my career. sometimes without giving it a concrete meaning, but it’s a goal that we are pursuing with perseverWho are some designers you admire? I admire ance and conviction,” he says, adding, “We, as a emerging designers with fresh ideas. In an society, all need to dress more consciously, choosing industry governed largely by huge corporations, recycled or carbon-neutral materials whenever it’s difficult for young talent to get a foot in the possible.” While there’s work to be done, Bisconti door, let alone stand out. Yet there are always interesting concepts that, who knows, may have is encouraged by greener future. “Before long, I broad commercial appeal. So I admire those deexpect we’ll offer a wide range of products that will signers who somehow find a way to make their help us reduce our global footprint—without giving dreams become a reality. up style. Beauty and respect for the environment will no longer be antithetical.”

What is your first shoe-related memory? The In the meantime, Bisconti says the goal for Voile first pair that I could buy with my own money, Blanch is to stay curious and keep innovating. On which were Nike Cortez. I was 11 years old, and I the heels of a tough 2023 for the industry (what was so proud that I felt like I was flying. he describes as a post-pandemic hangover), he is

Snapshot

46 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_UPCLOSE_final.indd 46

12/21/23 2:50 PM

Q&A coninued from page 17 have to buy everything up front. About 50 percent of that channel’s business for us is fill-ins. We believe that if you’re going to be in this business, you must invest in inventory. You can’t sell from an empty basket. You have to have styles available when customers need them. That requires having faith in your shoes.

We don’t believe it’s a high-risk formula, because we believe in our products.

We bring to the table amazing shoes, great value, a good fit, and the ability to fill-in. Plus, it’s all open stock; we don’t sell anything in case packs. Everything is visible online and our retailers can receive shipment within three days.

What is the biggest challenge Spring Footwear is facing right now?

There are always many, but the biggest one now is finding enough people to make our shoes, which in particular require a lot of individuals with the right skill set. Our collections feature a lot of handmade details.

But shoemaking, in general, is a very labor-intensive job, and a lot of younger generations don’t want to work that hard. Factories in China are even having difficulties finding enough employees, and the same could be said for where we make shoes in Italy, Portugal, Spain, and Turkey. That challenge aside, we are seeing less issues in the supply chain. Things are much better than they were during the pandemic. We aren’t experiencing as much disruption, and prices have leveled off and even are down in some cases.

It seems one of the biggest challenges facing specialty retailers is the Dear John letters many have received from some brands. What is Spring Footwear’s stand on that issue?

That won’t be the case with us. We cherish our relationships with those accounts. Like many specialty retailers, we’re a family-owned business, and we also recognize the integral role they play in our overall success. A lot of their customers, for example, are elderly and need more

assistance in finding the right shoes and proper fit. Where else can they receive that expert service? So we’re committed to continuing our partnerships with them as well as all our retail partners. As long as they pay their bills and don’t give us problems, there’s no reason to close any. It helps that we have separate teams dedicated to each channel. Each has their own customer service team and warehouse serving those respective accounts.

Where do you envision Spring Footwear in three years?

While it’s nice to now be considered a leader in the category—we deserve it as our team works very hard—we’re driven to keep moving forward to be the best at what we do. We see where we can still get to. So it’s to continue on our trajectory of growth and improvement while consistently pushing the boundaries of innovation. We also aim to foster partnerships with increasingly important and dominant players in the industry, solidifying our position as a key player in the market. The key is to keep moving forward. It’s similar to running a sprint—our attention is always on the path in front of us. We don’t dwell on what’s in the rearview mirror.

“Loving shoes, loving the challenges to constantly create and find solutions to problems...

Avi and I love all that.”

Do you ever take a breather?

We keep Shabbat, so Friday night through Saturday is our family time. Synagogue is where we take a break and connect with our souls. It’s important that we do.

Faith has always been an important way for Avi and me to bounce back. To understand that we can do the maximum of what we can and the rest we leave to God. It’s up to Him ultimately on what the outcome will be.

That’s basically our motto in life: Do what we can, do our best, and the rest is outside of our control.

Despite 18-hour days and currently working in a war zone, it remains a labor of love?

When you love what you do, it’s really not work. Of course, there are moments, but the majority of the time I really enjoy what I do. Loving shoes, loving the challenges to constantly create and find solutions to problems...Avi and I love all of that. This year marks our 40th anniversary working in this industry. We still love being involved in every aspect. We love striving to make the best possible product, offering the best service, paying attention to every detail, meeting our customers’ needs, and just living and breathing shoes.

We also love the industry’s constant evolution and dynamic nature. It’s a fast-paced environment that necessitates continuous growth, pushing us to explore alternatives, embrace new trends, form new partnerships, build diverse teams, and continually refine our operations. And what we cherish most is instilling excitement in our customers about our shoes. That never gets old. •

Team Spring Footwear: CEO David Ben Zikry, Laura Sileo, director of merchandising; Nicole Beauregard, key accounts executive; Laura Fish, senior merchandise manager; Ariana Cocchiola, product coordinator; Peggy Bookhout, key accounts executive; Avi Ben Zikry, president.

2024 january • footwearplusmagazine.com 47

24_01_FW_Q_A_final.indd 47

12/21/23 3:00 PM

L A S T S HO T

Hits the Spot

Taos

Ugg

Zodiac

Lamo

NeroGiardini

Propét

Aetrex

Hot Chocolate

Toasty shades of caramel, nutmeg, and honey sweeten the palette for fall.

48 footwearplusmagazine.com • january 2024

24_01_FW_LAST_SHOT_final.indd 48

12/21/23 4:40 PM

THE IR

SHOW JANUARY

28-30, 2024 SAN DIEGO

CONVENTION CENTER

ails ockt 24 C r e 9, 20 s Ov tion nuary 2 a s r e Ja onv

C

www.TheIRShow.com

FOP JAN 2024_r1_12_21.indd 3

Ope

nin

gN

igh tC Jan ockta uar y 28 il Part , 20 y 24

CS@TheIRShow.com

12/21/23 9:14 PM

Welcome to F itopi a

™

The Aetrex Omni-Suite Package The Industry’s Most Advanced, Integrated FitTech Solution FitGenius™ AI Footwear Recommendations SizeRight™ Mobile App | Foot.com Data Portal Learn More at

AetrexTechnology.com

FOP JAN 2024.indd 4

12/20/23 2:53 PM