Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2012 • June by Wainscot Media

SAKS’ TRACY MARGOLIES GETS PERSONAL

THE SOURCE FOR RETAILERS

•

TRADE SHOWS PREVIEW • SPRING TRENDS FORECAST

ƫĂĀāĂƫđƫĸāĀċĀĀ

The Golden Age

gatsby_cover_revise_date.indd 1

5/23/12 12:53 PM

FOP_COV2 COV2

5/22/12 10:36:13 AM

SEE THE BØRN SPRING 2013 COLLECTIONS AT FFANY | NEW YORK SHOWROOM 1441 BROADWAY | 14TH FLOOR | NEW YORK, NY

FOP_1 1

5/22/12 9:56:48 AM

Footwear+ June 2012.indd 1

5/21/12 10:16:31 AM

RIKER • REPUBLIC INDEMNITY• ROCKPORT CO • ROMIKA • SEBAGO • SIMPLE LOGIC • SKECHERS • SKECHERS USA • SOFFT • SOFTSPOTS • SOFTWALK • SPENCO MEDICAL • SPRING • TAOS • TIMBERLAND CO • TROTTERS • TWO TEN FOUNDATION • US CONTINENTAL • WSA/ENK

FOP_2 2

THE 2012 USRA MAY EVENT WAS A BIG WINNER! Thanks to all retailers that gave the event a vote of confidence! Special thanks to our campaign workers –– our brand sponsors! AETREX WORLDWIDE AHNU FOOTWEAR ARAVON ARCOPEDICO ARIAT INTERNATIONAL BIRKI'S BORN BURTEN DISTRIBUTION CAT FOOTWEAR CLARKS COMPANIES COBB HILL CROCS CUSHE FOOTWEAR DANSKO DEERTRACKS DIMMI DR SCHOLLS

EARTH INC. EARTHIES ECCO USA ENK INTERNATIONAL FINN COMFORT FITFLOP INC. FLORSHEIM FN PLATFORM FOOTWEAR PLUS GRAVITY DEFYER HELLE COMFORT INDIGO JOHNSTON MURPHY JOSEF SEIBEL KORK-EASE LIBERTY INSURANCE MBT

hosted by

One Industry. One Goal. One Place.

MEPHISTO MERRELL NAOT NATURALIZER NAYA FOOTWEAR NEW BALANCE NO SOX OTZ SHOES ORTHAHEEL PAPILLIO PARCEL MGMT. GROUP PR!VO PW MINOR REPUBLIC INDEMNITY RIEKER ROCKPORT ROMIKA

SBICCA COMFORT SEBAGO SIMPLE LOGIC SKECHERS SKECHERS GO RUN SMARTDOGS SOFFT SOFTSPOTS SOFTWALK SPENCO MEDICAL SPRING TAOS TIMBERLAND TROTTERS TWO TEN US CONTINENTAL

Call or email the USRA office for Membership information and a May Event package.

818-703-6062 Linda@USRAonline.org www.USRAONLINE.ORG

• PR!VO • PARCEL MANAGEMENT GROUP • ORTHAHEEL • OeTZI3300 • NO SOX • NEW BALANCE ATHLETIC SHOE • NAYA FOOTWEAR • NATURALIZER • NAOT • MEPHISTO • MERRELL • MUNRO • MBT

• EARTH INC • EARTHIES • ECCO USA • FINN COMFORT • FITFLOP INC • FLORSHEIM • FLEXX • FN PLATFORM • FOOTWEAR PLUS MAGAZINE • GOLITE FOOTWEAR • GRAVITY DEFYER • HELLE COMFORT • INDIGO • JOHNSTON & MURPHY • JOSEF SEIBEL • KORK-EASE • LIBERTY INSURANCE COMPANY •

MAY EVENT 2012 SPONSORS: AETREX WORLDWIDE • AHNU FOOTWEAR • ARAVON • ARCOPEDICO • ARIAT INTERNATIONAL • BIRKI'S • BORN • CAT FOOTWEAR • THE CLARKS COMPANIES • COBB HILL • CROCS • DANSKO • DUNHAM BOOTMAKERS

5/22/12 9:56:56 AM

JUNE 6–8 AUGUST 1–3 Wednesday–Friday Hilton New York Hotel & Member Showrooms

View exhibiting brands and plan your appointments at FFANY.ORG

FFANY Launches iPad App Reference the show directory in digital format prior to the show FREE at the App Store, easily downloadable Use at the show instead of paper directory Links to websites and email addresses with a simple tap on the screen Plan buying appointments in advance Reminders for new directory editions prior to FFANY shows Bookmark FFANY.ORG on your iPad today!

FOP_3 3

5/22/12 9:57:00 AM

J U N E 201 2

12 Trade Show Guide August’s shows offer attendees an expansive outlook of Spring ’13 fashions. By Lyndsay McGregor and Mary Avant

14 Q&A: Rockport

Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

20 American Landscape

Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor

24 Pop Star Tracy Margolies, vice president DMM of women’s footwear at Saks Fifth Avenue, shares her buying philosophy. By Greg Dutter

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL

Mary Avant Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editors Maria Bouselli Assistant Editor Michel Onofrio Style Director Laurie Guptill Production Manager Kathy Passero Editor at Large

28 Treasure Chest

Tim Jones Senior Designer

An Upper East Side townhouse serves as a shoe lover’s dream with its handpicked selection and charming layout. By Lyndsay McGregor

ADMINISTRATION

30 Conference Champs

Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager

The May Event saw record attendance, an all-star cast of speakers and the roast of Clarks’ Joe Salzano. By Greg Dutter

36 Lulu F. Scott Fitzgerald’s beloved novel and the luxurious fashions of the 1920s inspire fall dress styles.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

President of U.S. sales and operations for The Rockport Company, Bob Mullaney, reveals his plans on how to recapture the marketshare as he looks to add his personal touch to the brand’s legacy. By Greg Dutter

Color, feminine style and coastal locales spark feelings of a bygone era that come into play for next spring. By Angela Velasquez

PA G E

Caroline Diaco Publisher

6 Editor’s Note 8 This Just In 10 Scene & Heard 32 What’s Selling 34 Trend Spotting 48 Shoe Salon 49 Boots 50 Street 52 Last Word On the cover: Luiza Barecelos glitter sandal. Gown by Southpaw Vintage. This page: Abel Munoz two-tone booties. Stylist’s blouse, Elizabeth & James pants, cameo by Linda Varady Berman, Cara New York necklace. Photography by Glynis Selina Arban. Styling by Robyn Victoria. Model: Ksenia V at Silent Models.

Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager

Mike Hoff Webmaster Theodore Hoffman Special Projects Director OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl. New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno CFO

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) Vol. 23 issue #5 The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by 9Threads, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 100037118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2012 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

FP_06_TOC_02REVISE_.indd 4

5/23/12 3:56 PM

LOS ANGELES 800.969.5235

NEW YORK 212.564.4710

KBELLSOCKS.COM K. BELL IS A DIVISION OF RENFRO CORPORATION

FOP_5 5

5/22/12 10:12:03 AM

editor’s note a dressing down 7

Boys in the Hoodies IT’S ACCURATE TO say that Florida teen Trayvon Martin and Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg couldn’t be more opposite: One is dead following highly controversial and racially tinged circumstances; the other is alive and extremely healthy, particularly from a financial standpoint, thanks to the recent IPO of his popular social networking site. The move turned the billionaire into a multi-billionaire so many times over that contemplating his wealth is like trying to comprehend the vastness of space. Anyone who hasn’t been living under a rock these past few months knows that Martin was a 17-year-old African American, infamously “armed” with soda and a bag of Skittles when he was killed by a 28-year-old neighborhood watchman. The watchman suspected Martin might be a burglar on the grounds of the gated Florida community where he volunteered to patrol. Martin’s choice of dress that night—a dark hoodie—played a critical role in his tragic fate. The watchman assumed that a black teenager in a hoodie was up to no good and should be confronted before any crime occurred. And this went horribly wrong when, instead of keeping an eye on the “suspect” until police officers arrived on the scene, the watchman took matters into his own hands. Martin’s hoodie served as a catalyst for his death. It was, you might say, a killer fashion statement for all the wrong reasons. But what if it had been Zuckerberg—who would very likely have been wearing a hoodie as well— walking though that gated community that night? Would the watchman have pursued a slender, young, white man with the same zeal? I think it’s fair to say that there was another key element in the watchman’s reckless stereotyping that cost Martin his life. In addition to the hoodie as a criminal’s on-thejob attire or a billionaire tech geek’s anti-establishment style moniker, there’s been plenty of talk of late about the clothing values of Americans— specifically, the shift into casual overdrive. Some pundits blame the look for contributing to the erosion of morals in our country. Case in point: The Secret Service agents who recently got caught up in the hooker scandal in Colombia were accused of looking unprofessional during the days leading up to their assignment. They were described as wearing cargo shorts and golf shirts, the standard fraternity boy’s attire. True, many of those agents were acting like drunken frat boys on spring break, but the suggestion that the clothing is indicative of debauched behavior is a stretch. Plenty of men wear similar outfits but don’t drink to excess or patronize prostitutes. And

the suggestion by one columnist that none of this behavior would have happened if they had been dressed in classic G-men suits, skinny black ties and dark sunglasses is farfetched. Extending that flawed premise, if Trayvon Martin had been wearing a tuxedo that night he would be alive today. Since when does wearing suits and ties guarantee that people are of good moral stature? One only needs to look at the recent financial debacle to refute such a misguided assumption about fashion. Those Wall Street crooks dressed to the nines, but it didn’t stop them from robbing their fellow Americans blind. What’s the difference between a thug in a hoodie taking your wallet and a man in an Armani suit draining your retirement account? The same lack of morals applies to both crimes. Only the dress code is different. The problems don’t lie in our fashion preferences; they go much deeper than that. The lesson being ingrained in our country’s youth that lying, cheating and stealing on an epic scale can bring you vast riches is doing far more to erode our country’s morals than wearing hoodies or cargo shorts. And the fact that most, if not all, of those less sartorially menacing criminals remain unpunished only reaffirms the idea that if it’s “white collar” it isn’t technically a crime. Perhaps even worse, there’s a perception that getting away with it is something to be admired. The example being set is that greed is more than good; it’s the new gold standard. They say clothes make the man, but that couldn’t be further from the truth. Morals make the man. Knowing the difference between right and wrong and having the moral fortitude to make the right choices has nothing to do with the clothing you wear. Fashion trends come and go, but what should never become passé is treating others with respect and decency. As we cycle out of this current depression there may be a shift to dressing in a more sophisticated way to appear more hirable. Or it might happen because men are just tired of looking like 11-year-old boys. In any event, I’d take an honest person in a hoodie or cargo shorts any day over the slick wolf in banker’s clothing. Wouldn’t you? You might just wind up hiring the next Mark Zuckerberg. Or the next Steve Jobs, who was renowned for his casual dress. It was an occasion for him even to wear shoes, and when he did they were usually flimsy flip-flops. I’ll admit, though, if I was doing the hiring, I might draw the line at that fashion faux pas, potential visionary genius be damned. Greg Dutter Editorial Director

6 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

FW_06_EdNote_02.indd 6

5/22/12 4:27 PM

FOP_7 7

5/23/12 2:27:02 PM

THIS JUST IN

Color My World The new black for New Yorkers: a rainbow of color. By McCandliss and Campbell

8 footwearplusmagazine.com june 2012

FW_06_This_Just_In_02.indd 8

5/23/12 2:18 PM

ara-shoes.net

ara - !e many colors of Autumn

Bella 43716

Shoe fashion that fits me. ara North America 路 12 W. 57th Street, suite 1001 路 New York 路 NY 10019 路 877.272.7463 FOP_9 9

5/22/12 9:57:14 AM

¡+¢ scene and heard A Retailer Goes to Washington

Gary Weiner (right), president of Saxon Shoes, pursues the passing of the Affordable Footwear Act.

RETAILERS: IF YOU’VE ever had any desire to enter the political sphere, now’s the time. At least, Gary Weiner, president of VA-based Saxon Shoes, says it is. Weiner recently hit Capitol Hill along with members of the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) to meet with congressmen and other legislative representatives in an effort to pass the Affordable Footwear Act, a law that would repeal a decades-old tax that he says unnecessarily inflates shoe prices. And now he’s encouraging industry colleagues and even consumers to get involved, too. The tax, which imposes a fee on imported footwear, was originally meant to protect American footwear producers. However, now that only 1 percent of shoes sold in America are made in the U.S., the tax is hurting stateside shoppers. “It’s a tax to protect an industry that doesn’t exist in America anymore,” Weiner says. “It’s inflating footwear prices to consumers for no reason.” Scrapping the tax would lower footwear costs, particularly for low-

Candy Rain HAVING JUST FINISHED the sweets left over from the Footwear Plus April/May candy-themed rain boot fashion story, you can only imagine how delighted the editors were to come across Teresa

Soroka’s hidden gem of a boutique in our New York office’s East Village neighborhood. The store is called Amé Amé, which in Japanese means both rain and candy, or Candy Rain. It’s chock full of sugary confections, candied color rain boots, funky umbrellas and slick rain jackets. “Rain and candy go hand in hand, a perfect combination for a day at the movies,” Soroka says, adding when she opened in November 2011, she wanted to create a cheerful and vibrant store that balanced dreary gray days. In a neighborhood where novelty stores thrive—socks, pudding, Belgian fries and rubber stamps are just a few of the one-trick shops in the ’hood—don’t confuse Soroka’s boutique as a gimmick. “Customers come in laughing. Some are just overjoyed by the fun

income customers because, oddly enough, the duty charges higher taxes on less expensive footwear—like kids’ shoes. Weiner says lowering the price on such footwear would help stimulate the economy by giving shoppers more incentive to potentially spend on shoes. However, the Saxon Shoes president points out that, because the federal government benefits from this tax to the tune of approximately $2 billion annually, it’s resistant to repeal it—at least until it finds a source of revenue with which to replace it. “The federal government wants and needs the cash,” Weiner maintains. “But is getting that cash at the expense of lower- and middle-income families worth it?” While Weiner believes the Affordable Footwear Act will pass eventually, he says “the ‘when’ part is next to impossible to predict.” To speed the process, he is encouraging fellow retailers to contact their congressmen or even start a grassroots campaign from within their stores to enlist the support of consumers. “If consumers knew [about the tax], they would have a tough time letting their congressmen get away with doing this,” he declares. “I think there’d be a mini-revolution just based on principal.” While in Washington, Weiner had another agenda to address: encouraging Congress to pass an online sales tax. As of right now, many online retailers like Amazon don’t have to collect a sales tax from customers who purchase goods. It’s a policy that Weiner is baffled by: “It’s allowing people to buy the same product from an out-of-state vendor with no tax consequences,” he explains, noting it’s a disadvantage to brick-andmortar retailers who essentially have to charge more. Weiner complains that mass online retailers’ lack of sales tax is especially bad for state governments, who use such funds to pay for public services like schools and infrastructure. Exacerbating that situation is when these retailers open distribution facilities in states and are still exempt from charging sales tax but its employees are using the state’s public services. “It’s tough to fathom how it’s gone on this long,” he says. “And it’s odd that I have to collect $5 more from my neighbor, but a business that’s 1,000 times bigger than mine doesn’t have to.” —Mary Avant

mix of products and they’ll bring their friends from out-of-town, but ultimately they want good products that will last for years,” she says. Along those lines, Soroka looks for styles that marry comfort, style and quality. Chelsea boots by Igloo for men and women are strong

sellers, as are Swims galoshes. “When the store opened, I thought the candy was for sure going to be the best-seller, but people really like their rain gear,” she says, confessing that she favors the chocolate-covered gummy bears. —Angela Velasquez

At left: Teresa Soroka outside her East Village store; shoppers are tempted by candy and statement-making Ilse Jacobsen boots.

10 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

FW_06_S&H_01.indd 10

5/22/12 5:03 PM

the shoe show at

MORE BRANDS. MORE BUYERS. MORE RESOURCES THAN EVER. FDRA Update from Washington Industry Matchmaking Event USRA Hosted “Shoe-nited States” Future of Footwear Showcase Exclusive Buying Programs for Ready-to-Wear Retailers And many more networking events...

TUESDAY, WEDNESDAY, THURSDAY

LAS VEGAS & MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTERS

FOP_11 11

MAGICONLINE.COM (877) 554 4834

5/22/12 9:57:39 AM

SPECIAL REPORT

Trade Show Guide Chock-full of must-see reasons to attend, the August round of trade shows offers a comprehensive industry overview of the latest Spring ’13 trends from established players and the latest crop of up-and-comers. By Mary Avant and Lyndsay McGregor

FN PLATFORM: BIGGER AND BETTER With more than 1,500 brands (and counting) at the last show, FN Platform is poised for a bigger-than-ever event on Aug. 20-23 at the Las Vegas Convention Center. Leslie Gallin, vice president of footwear for FN Platform, says the show is tracking ahead of the previous event and that an improving economy is creating a more upbeat mood among attendees. “Our show is a six-month window into the economy and it’s looking very healthy,” she reports. “The footwear industry has gone through a lean period and tightened up their ship, so they’re poised for progress at this point.” The show—whose opening night party has an “Americana” theme—will be featuring a made-in-the-USA component to meet the growing demands of buyers who Gallin says are contacting the FN Platform team each day to find out which brands are homegrown. “We will be identifying those footwear brands that produce here in the USA,” Gallin notes, adding that these brands will have an identifying tab on both their booth signs and in the show directory to let buyers know they’re American-made. FN Platform is also working on a program that will help prospective ready-to-wear retailers “connect the dots with those vendors that will have open-stock programs, smaller minimums and all of the things necessary to make an impact for the ready-to-wear retailer,” Gallin explains. In addition, the show is collaborating with Len Pesko of footwear consulting firm Modern Pulse to create a forum that’s geared toward helping start-up vendors, small businesses and European retailers in search of information about logistics, financing and options for running their businesses. Gallin also notes that attendees will have easier access to the show, thanks to shuttle buses that drop them off not only at the front of the south hall of the Las Vegas Convention Center, but also at a new secondary

entrance in the grand lobby. In addition, there will be inter-venue shuttles running between WWD Magic and FN Platform. Gallin adds that the show intends to make good on attendee requests to upgrade the food offerings, which is always a challenge, but organizers will do their best. Last, but surely not least, Gallin notes that sister show Magic is opening a day before FN Platform to accommodate the ready-to-wear buyers who prefer to shop apparel trends before footwear. “The reaction has been overwhelmingly positive,” she notes. “It’s an exciting time both for our show and the industry as a whole.”

THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET: READY AND ABLE Running from Aug. 17-19 at the Cobb Galleria Centre, The Atlanta Shoe Market has become the go-to show for retailers from the Southeast and beyond and, according to show manager Laura Conwell-O’Brien, last year’s mild winter hasn’t dampened the overall mood when it comes to shopping for spring goods. “I think the general consensus is that everyone is very encouraged with the upcoming election and ready to get on with business with a positive outlook,” she says, noting that attendance is projected to be up from the record traffic at previous shows. “We keep adding new venues that give us the ability to accept more exhibitors.” One such addition can be seen at the Renaissance Hotel’s Garden Court and Habersham Ballroom, where work boots will be showcased in a new area called “The Work Zone.” Exhibitors will once again take over the food court at the Cobb Galleria Centre and brands like Vince Camuto, Frye and Jeffrey Campbell will set up shop in the surrounding retail space. On Friday, the complimentary Casino & Cocktail Party, sponsored by show organizers Southeastern Shoe Travelers Association, will be

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

FW_06_TradeShowGuide03.indd 12

5/22/12 1:31 PM

held from 6 to 7 p.m. at the Cobb Energy Centre. On Saturday, Ellen Campuzano, president of the Committee of Color and Trends, will once again offer key insights into the trends that will drive footwear and accessory styles for the coming season at the Color & Trend Breakfast Seminar, taking place from 7:30 to 9 a.m.

this upcoming Summer Market (Aug. 2-5), footwear brands will account for approximately 23 percent of the total exhibit base—an 11-percent increase since 2010, according to OR’s Marketing Director, Margie Levlis. Show Director Kenji Haroutunian puts this footwear growth down to two factors: “One is that the outdoor lifestyle, anchored by authentic outdoor activities, has gotten hip or at least is a look that fits into the FFANY: TIMING IS EVERYTHING mainstream. The second is that retailers want context. They want a fully From Aug. 1-3, the New York-based FFANY show will once again welcome merchandised environment with hard goods and accessories that work the Italian Trade Commission and the National Association of Italian together with footwear and apparel,” he says, adding that Outdoor Retailer, Municipalities (A.N.C.I.), along with more than 30 of its brands, to the where function meets fashion, ticks all the boxes. Hilton Hotel as part of its Italian Footwear Pavilion. Not to mention, And because show offerings include the whole outdoor products FFANY will also feature a host of brands from around the world enchilada—from tents and kayaks to pullovers and trail walkers—buyers showcasing new styles, colors and textures for the upcoming spring season, can see how a particular trend or color story is playing out across all as well as more than 80 FFANY member showrooms doing the same. categories, as well as get a read on up-and-coming outdoor activities. “FFANY is the first show in a key month of trade Many industry insiders point to Crocs, Vibram shows where the market is clearly concentrating on FiveFingers, Ugg and Keen as just a few of launching fashion for Spring ’13,” reports Joe Moore, the (now mainstream) brands that found their FFANY’s president and CEO. “The timing of the first brand-footing at OR. As Haroutunian points week in August simply works for wholesalers and out, it’s because trends are influenced by retailers: Samples are ready and retailers are ready what’s happening in the real world. “Outdoor to place orders.” He adds, “Exhibitors who show in Retailer exposes a slice—maybe a fat slice—of New York will see buyers first at FFANY.” that real world and how we adapt to changes Attendance is expected to be up from last year’s in it. We create better gear and footwear to show, with five floors of exhibit rooms at the Hilton survive and thrive in the extremes that the confirmed so far, as well as the entire concourse level world offers,” he says. of meeting rooms. FFANY has put forth major effort In addition to the opening night’s industry in keeping the show conveniently based in Midtown, party, business seminars delivered by renowned where buyers can shop the exhibiting brands while market specialists and the chance to meet with in close proximity to showrooms—many of which key industry players at the Paddle Zone, “Project are offering extended hours and days to provide OR” will be back for its ninth cycle during retailers more time during market week to view and which five students will compete to design and buy collections. And, as Moore points out, street construct a specified outdoor garment prototype fashion is at its best in the Big Apple. “While buyers live on the show floor. And anyone interested — Lestlie Gallin, VP of Footwear, are in New York, many take advantage of the time in the innovative and fashion-forward elements FN Platform to trendspot firsthand by shopping the major stores of the outdoor market—from color theory to and more fashion-forward boutiques from SoHo to laminations—is encouraged to stop by the show’s Madison Avenue to the Upper West Side,” he says. Source & Design Center. FFANY organizers will make buying easier for the June edition with the With more than 100 new exhibitors on top of the 900 returning launch of an interactive show planner and iPhone app. Now buyers can ones, the big challenge for OR continues to be how to accommodate easily preview show exhibitors and floor plans and aggregate a hit list of it all. To that end, it’s asking the industry to offer suggestions. In May, brands they plan to visit to make shopping the show a snap. show organizers Nielsen Business Media and the Outdoor Industry For the benefit of exhibitors, FFANY has introduced an updated Association (O.I.A.) launched the Collective Voice platform on OR’s website sponsorship program, which includes moderately priced packages offering (www.outdoorretailer.com) to gather feedback from retailers and exhibitors sponsors increased visibility to promote brand awareness and recognition to gauge their expectations in terms of growth and event options. The key among show attendees. question is: If OR outgrows the host city’s footprint capabilities, where should it move to accommodate its expanding needs? Stay tuned.

“ The footwear industry has gone through a lean period and tightened up its ship, so it’s poised for progress at this point.”

OUTDOOR RETAILER: ON A ROLL

No longer viewed as a niche show focused on performance-based outdoor footwear, Outdoor Retailer in Salt Lake City, UT, is now considered a must-attend shoe show for a growing number of retailers and vendors. At the most recent edition last January, there were 258 footwear brands on display, spanning product selections far beyond the show’s traditional roots in hiking and trail running to include road running, après sport and slipper categories. The show also featured an expanded outdoor lifestyle category that melds versatile performance features with casual styles. That show racked up a record attendance of approximately 21,000 attendees and, for

OFFPRICE: LET’S MAKE A DEAL These days, everyone wants a deal. And that’s just what they can get at the OffPrice show, says CEO Steven Krogulski. “The focus on value is still something that benefits us because that’s what our show is: We provide a great value for retailers coming to source new goods for their stores,” he explains about the show, which takes place Aug. 19-22 at the Sands Convention Center in Las Vegas. Unlike many other trade shows, OffPrice allows buyers to purchase goods available for immediate sale, allowing retailers to freshen up >35 2012 june • footwearplusmagazine.com 13

FW_06_TradeShowGuide03.indd 13

5/22/12 1:31 PM

FOLLOW THE LEADER Bob Mullaney, president of U.S. sales and operations for The Rockport Company, discusses how the brand is regaining its premium leadership position in the comfort space and how the best is yet to come. By Greg Dutter

RICH PRODUCT history and managerial pedigree are two of the aspects that stand out most when you think of Rockport. The brand’s 40-year legacy of product innovation, which includes a closet-full of iconic styles (think Dressports and World Tour collections as two examples), has made it as a comfort staple and category anchor for decades. Equally notable, from an industry insider’s perspective, is the long line of talented managers who have put their stamp on the brand, beginning with founder Bruce Katz, who arguably introduced Americans to the modern-day lightweight and technology-infused comfort shoe concept, followed by Bob Infantino (former head of Clarks and now running DryDock Footwear); Angel Martinez (CEO of Deckers Outdoor); Tony Post (who used to run marathons wearing Dressports and is now CEO of Vibram USA, makers of FiveFingers); Rick Paterno (president of wholesale brands at Nine West); Diane Sullivan (president of Brown Shoe); and Terry Pillow (who headed up the Ralph Lauren footwear license after his Rockport stint). It’s a footwear executive all-star team and one of the reasons that, when the opportunity came about, Mullaney, a career industry veteran with managerial positions at Timberland, Vida Shoes (where he launched the Baby Phat and Pastry brands) and Brown Shoe, couldn’t pass it up. “I have always admired the Rockport brand,” says Mullaney, who took over the helm of U.S. operations last April. “It’s the gold standard. It has been one of the best in the industry and still is.” In fact, the managerial talent of his predecessors serves as a daily incentive for Mullaney to build onto that legacy. “There’s an amazing amount of talent that has worked on the brand and added to it,” he says. “We owe it to the brand to continue that legacy and bring Rockport forward.” Mullaney is confident that his new management team has already made strides in that regard with the successful launch of TruWalk Zero this spring, with this fall’s debut of RocSports Lite and with next spring’s Business Lite collections. “I believe there will be a period when we look back at some of these launches as iconic shoes introduced by the brand,” Mullaney says, adding that it’s just the beginning. “We will be coming out with even more great-looking and comfortable styles to fill out the closet.” Mullaney believes now is the time for Rockport to re-stake its position as a comfort category innovator and leader. While the brand fell off track a bit during the previous few years, losing some of its innovative product edge and being promoted too heavily, it still has good bones and its reputation among its loyal consumers remains solid. And Mullaney believes it’s open season on winning over a new generation. It starts with great product. “We need to recapture our marketshare in men’s, but we need to do it through innovation, incorporating sport technologies and creating compelling product stories so we go back to what made Rockport great—offering a great consumer experience,” he says. Beyond that, there remains the elusive (yet enormously enticing) goal of capturing greater women’s marketshare. It is a lucrative segment that Rockport has never really sunk its teeth into. Call it the brand’s white whale. “We have had a nice little women’s business of late—it’s been better distribution and more limited—but we believe there is a huge white

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

FW_06_QA_02.Revise.indd 14

5/23/12 12:31 PM

FOP_15 15

5/22/12 9:57:42 AM

O&A space in the marketplace, which is style made comfortable,” Mullaney offers. “We shouldn’t have to compromise that a shoe can only be one or the other.” Mullaney says the brand’s design team, using the tremendous resources of its parent company Adidas and sister brand Reebok, is hard at work on delivering that one-two comfort and style punch. An element of surprise, Mullaney surmises, works in the brand’s favor in attracting women: “Customers often say, ‘Oh, that’s a Rockport shoe.’ The great part about that is they are also saying that they know it will be comfortable because it’s made by Rockport.” Mullaney is fully aware of previous attempts made by the brand to achieve the Holy Grail of women’s footwear design—as have hundreds of brands who have tried in vain. “It’s a cliché to say we are going to make fashionable shoes comfortable because it’s rarely executed,” he admits. “But we are dedicated to that effort. It has to be a part of who we are and what we do as a brand every day.” The technology quotient, Mullaney adds, is the difference maker: “A lot of fashion brands can’t avail themselves to our types of technologies. That’s one of the beautiful aspects to being associated with Adidas; there’s a lot of innovation going on.” In addition to introducing great products, another focus of Mullaney’s has been to clean up Rockport’s distribution and make sure its existing partners back off on promotion. Discounting Rockport might have been a great way to lure customers into stores, but over the long term it damages the brand. “We need to build back brand equity,” Mullaney says. “We have to get back to what made Rockport great, and that’s the product and not the sales price.” And while distribution will span from department stores to independents—what Mullaney describes as a fact of retail life today—there’s plenty of opportunity for all partners to prosper with the brand in their respective mixes. “We are going to continue to grow with better distribution—with the retailers that can best tell our story,” he says. “Those retailers spend a lot of time with their customers, where it’s not always about price or discounting, but about offering outstanding value to the customer.” Then there’s the timing aspect that may be in Rockport’s favor. Competitors might have slipped. Fashion is cyclical and a sound game

plan can revive brands with a great heritage. And maybe the stars will align, too. “We are getting a lot of feedback that it’s all lining up and that it’s Rockport’s time,” Mullaney says, noting the first quarter of this year saw double-digit sales gains. “It’s nice to hear because it means confidence is building in the marketplace.” However, he is not naïve or complacent. “I don’t want to get caught up in that and think it’s just going to happen,” he says. “We still need to execute. We have a huge opportunity in front of us and we are in a good

strong as ever. In addition, a lot of retailers have a good history with Rockport so the opportunity exists for us to move forward and leave the promotional aspect behind.

What is it about the brand that has kept its reputation intact? At the end of the day, we have, and continue to make, wonderful products that the customer knows are of quality at an unbelievable value. And that’s what the consumer demands today. S o m e t i m e s w e c a n o v e r c o m p l i c at e how we think about the business, but I believe Rockport has always strove to be a brand that delivered unparalleled quality, innovation, comfort and value in serving the needs of its consumers. We believe greatly in the mantra: “Do What are you reading? What is your motto? more. Be More. Live more.” And that’s Optimize by Lee Odden, Your strength is your our proposition: delivering products that Steve Jobs by Walter weakness. And my team allow our customers to do just that. Isaacson and Hug here has tagged me with, Your Customer by Jack “It’s a nice start.” What are you doing to expand the Mitchell. reach to include a younger customer— If you could hire beyond the World Tour guy? What is your favorite anybody, who would it First, let me say that we love our World movie of all time? The be? I would assemble Tour guy and certainly continue to Champ. an advisory board embrace him. But we do feel strongly consisting of Bruce Katz, that we can execute against multiple What was your first the founder of Rockport; consumer segments. To that end, we need paying job? Very [Facebook founder] to address style and comfort in all of unoriginal: a paper route. Mark Zuckerberg and our collections, but our newer collections Angel Martinez [CEO of lend themselves to a younger consumer What one word Deckers Outdoor]. base. Our style quotient has already best describes you? significantly increased in our last few Competitive. What is your favorite lines and we have been encouraged by hometown memory? the results, particularly with anyone who What is inspiring Competing in sports is under 30 years old. Also encouraging you most right now? against my friends in is that those under 30 who don’t have Consumers that pride my hometown, Boston. any prior experience with the brand or themselves on being We played baseball, preconceived notions have responded smarter and more basketball—no matter well. The fact that all of our shoes feature informed than ever what—we found a way to Adiprene cushioning—offering a product before. turn it into a competition. association with a brand that they are familiar with in their youth—is obviously a nice connection to Rockport. We believe once we are given that shot we will do a spot to make it happen.” For Rockport, the best good job of bringing them back because we will is yet to come: “You will really see the brand take deliver on our promise of making a quality shoe off over the next 12 to 24 months.” at an unbelievable value.

OFF THE CUFF

How damaging has the recent emphasis on price promotion been to the brand? Thankfully, our customers who have an affinity for the brand—and even those who don’t—don’t have a negative perception. That presents real opportunity for us and proves the brand is as

There’s been talk about a younger generation of men that, while unwilling to give up the comfort of sneakers, they realize they need to clean it up a bit. Are you seeing that? Absolutely. The customer now has more demands. They want instant comfort and they

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

FW_06_QA_02.indd 16

5/23/12 9:36 AM

THE RISE OF OUTDOOR TECHNOLOGY + LIFESTYLE •

More than 100,000 sq. ft, 250 brands and 2,500 buyers have created the unprecedented growth of footwear at Outdoor Retailer

•

Outdoor and lifestyle products in their environment

•

Along the edges of pavement and trail is the future of footwear, only at Outdoor Retailer

SHOW • AUGUST 2-5, 2012

Salt Palace Convention Center, Salt Lake City, UT

DEMO • AUGUST 1, 2012 Jordanelle State Park, Heber City, UT

Photo Courtesy: OluKai

To exhibit or attend, go to outdoorretailer.com/FootwearPlus ––– SUMMER MARKET –––

FOP_17 17

5/22/12 9:58:02 AM

want to look good right away. We believe we are one of the companies that pioneered that approach back with our Dressports. And that story continues with the launch of our RocSports Lite collection this fall where you will look cleaned up and not, to your point, too relaxed.

The catâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s out of the bagâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;guys are a bunch of fashion dandies? I wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go on record saying just that (laughs). I still think guys enjoy service in terms of retailers providing opinions and recommendations. Actually, I think men are willing to pay a lot more money for it.

While we may not be reverting back exactly to the dress code of Alex P. Keaton [Family Ties], do you see more dressing up going forward? I do, but I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going to be more mix and match. You are going to see a lot more blazers and statements made with accessories, particularly with footwear. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going to be more classic silhouettes but with an edge and paired with jeans. It wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be Alex P. Keaton in a three-piece suit, but you will see smarter decisions being made by men. Might this shift be economic-related or just cyclical? Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not so sure the weak economy is the main motivation behind the shift; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s probably more that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just a good look. Fashions change and lot of it is just cyclical.

In appealing to a younger audience, how do you not alienate the World Tour customer in the process? Or is he evolving too? We need to make sure we have innovations and product offerings that appeal to that customer base as well. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about product, marketing and distribution strategies to make sure we put the right product in the right place and have the right marketing to compel the respective target audiences to buy. Athletic companies approach this process the best as they have broad distribution strategies involving many categories that reach a wide range of consumers. For example, Adidas has a walking shoe that appeals to a 45-year-old woman and a basketball shoe that appeals to a 15-year-old guy. I think we need to break out of the narrow mindset that we can only stand for one category or consumer segment.

Nonetheless, we may see some men cycle out of wearing cargo shorts and flip-flops to the office soon? Yes (laughs). There is always going to be a new twist to it. So now we might be moving back into a clean-it-up stage, but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more flavor and fashion involved than ever before. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not nearly as homogenous as it has been in the past. Men want to stand out more; they are much more confident in being fashionable. They are making statements with their fashion decisions. And thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s due to the easy and immediate access to information: They can pull out their iPad and log on to see what went on at the European runway shows. That access influences men, whereas before it was a much more controlled environment. More people are encouraged to, if you will, be their own stylist.

Brands like Adidas and Nike appeal to an age range spanning 2 to 75, yet seem to suffer little confusion. Correct. The 15 year old wearing an AdiZero basketball shoe is not affected by the 45-year-old woman wearing the walking shoe because Adidas delivered on each product to those consumers in the respective channels that they are comfortable shopping in. The brown shoe side of the business also needs to break through the preconceived notions of what channels and categories it can play in. Fortunately, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one of the strengths of Rockport, where we can take up a large portion of a man or womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closet share, as we are known for casual, dress and active styles. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe there are too many brands that can go from a leather sole shoe to an active casual one. That puts us at the forefront.

D`UÄ&#x161; H]aÄ&#x2039; GgUfgÄ Bcj 536 4IPX NBLFT CVZJOH BMNPTU BT GVO BT GSPMJDLJOH PO UIF CFBDI "MNPTU

4BO 'SBODJTDP "VH

4DPUUTEBMF "VH

)POPMVMV 4FQU

536TIPX DPN

FW_06_QA_02.indd 18

5/23/12 9:36 AM

How would you describe the TruWalk collection? It’s our pinnacle collection in walking. It’s the lightest shoe we have ever made and, when weighed against the competition, it has been lighter than almost every single one. The collection has gotten a great response so far and, to be clear, it’s not about just cutting things out of the shoes to make them lighter that could compromise on the quality. Same for our RockSports Lite shoes, which will feature a triple-density bottom with a stitch to sole construction so there is no tuck board and 25 percent less glue used. It’s extremely lightweight but also durable. We are not taking anything out of our shoes yet they will still hold up. And that’s what Rockport has always strived to do: solve problems through innovation and provide value to the consumer. It also should be noted that while lightweight might be back in vogue, Rockport pretty much introduced the concept years ago. Might TruWalk be the brand’s take on minimalist footwear? Mnimalism is a running design that pertains to forefoot strike as opposed to heel strike, which has nothing to do with TruWalk. Having said that, it is absolutely our solution to offering consumers a lightweight shoe that enables them to do more while creating less fatigue. Who wants to carry around the extra weight all day? As a result, a person is going to feel a lot more refreshed and energized to do more. Amid all this guy talk, where do women stand with Rockport? We have done a nice job and there’s been some good growth of late, but it’s a much smaller penetration of the overall business, so there’s obviously still a much larger opportunity for us. We believe that the white space is style made comfortable where she shouldn’t have to sacrifice comfort to look fashionable. You and just about everyone else is in this pursuit, right? Agreed. If we are going to have a long, sustainable women’s business we

need to satisfy what she wants—and she wants to look good. Women of all ages are upping their desire in this regard—they have raised the standards in what they are going to buy in terms of a comfort shoe design. To that end, we are upping the ante on our style quotient. But in doing so by introducing different heel heights, shapes and constructions, it takes a lot of time and investment. We believe there will be a tipping point eventually—I can’t tell you exactly when it will be—when women understand that they do not have to sacrifice on style. Retailers have to help in reaching that tipping point. That’s the other big piece to the equation. We have to move forward together on this effort. What is your current take on the overall comfort category? Is it as European-brand dominated or is it more open season? This isn’t the comfort from 10 or 15 years ago and that’s thanks to advances in technology where brands can deliver yet consumers don’t have to spend $300 on “comfortable” shoes. I think consumers are smart enough to know that now. What is Rockport’s biggest opportunity over the next 12 months? The biggest opportunity in the immediate future is getting our shoes on people’s feet. We believe the new technologies that we have recently introduced will convert consumers one at a time, particularly the younger guys who grew up wearing athletic shoes and have been trained since they were young to expect such levels of comfort and performance. Ironically, women have been conditioned to believe the opposite— they have to sacrifice comfort for a good-looking shoe. It’s funny you mention that. Recently, I attended a conference where >51

spicing up

comfort

800.962.0030 | www.springfootwear.com

THE PICANTE COLLECTION FROM SPRING STEP | FALL 2012

Laramie

Burbank Chino

FFANY | June 6-8, NYC ATL APPAREL SHOW | June 7-10, GA NEAC | June 10-13, MA SMOTA | June 24-26, FL

FW_06_QA_02.indd 19

5/23/12 9:36 AM

American

The first signs of Spring ’13 point to a wave of refreshing colors and styles awash

SCOURING EUROPE FOR up-and-coming trends may be just one of the perks of being a shoe designer, but as more consumers pin their favorite styles to Pinterest, tweet their latest purchases on Twitter, ‘like’ new brands on Facebook and subscribe to style blogs, designers are also logging on to key into the consumers’ collective conscience. To prepare for Spring ’13, Restricted’s General Manager, James Matush, says the brand’s creative team followed blogs dedicated to street style. “Our designers did what they always do: shopped Europe and attended shows, but with blogs, there’s the added bonus of having a direct line to our customer,” he says. “We see which trends they like, how its worn and, many times, they interpret the look in an inspiring way that we never expected.” With trends going viral at lightning speed, an eclectic

FW_06_Spring fashion.indd 20

mix of global influences might be expected for Spring ’13, but many of the designers Footwear Plus spoke with are reporting a focus on the home front—as in good ol’ American seaside fun, be it the nostalgic charm of New England beach towns, California’s vibrant promenades or electric Miami nights. Or, as Bradley O’Brien, Sperry Top-Sider’s vice president of women’s design and global trends, describes it: “Vacationland. It’s all about having fun and relaxing in an especially vibrant seaside locale,” he explains. The carefree look speaks to the ever-growing demand for women’s casuals and skimmers, which many brands are projecting as major growth areas for next season. Spring ’13 will also bring an undercurrent of ladylike pointy-toe flats and single-sole pumps, which are falling into the good graces of designers who’ve grown tired of chunky, heavy silhouettes. “There’s always a rebellious side to fashion, but there’s a definite return of pretty this spring,” says Nancy Geist, designer of Butter Shoes. The sleeker, elegant styles complement the “Roaring Twenties” trend that many

5/22/12 4:24 PM

a scape

with the allure and nostalgia of Americana. By Angela Velasquez

brands are carrying over into spring along with the re-emergence of 1930s-inspired draped and flowing apparel.

CALL FOR COLORS The combinations of silhouettes have one thing in common: plenty of color. “It’s all about color, color, color,” says Jennet Chow, founder and head of design and marketing for Jellypop, which is offering a mix of soft pastels to balance out the line’s edgier styles. Now that women are becoming comfortable with taupe and nude as go-to neutrals (which many designers still count as next spring’s must-have shades), Chow says they’re ready for “that splash of unexpected color, whether it’s on the outsole or different color bottom wrap.” Nude provides a base for the plush pastel suede Lovely People Founder and Designer Patty Kerrigan is using to tell her brand’s story of sweet 1960s kitten heels and pointy-toe flats. On the other hand, Geist has found that nude “juxtaposed with clear shades of apricot, sky blue and porcelain pink allow the pastels to take on almost neon intensity.”

For designer Elizabeth Brady’s eponymous line, contrasting ashy tones of warm gray, parchment white, pale yellow and soft coral with licks of bright blue, lime and teal help paint a fresh and balanced collection that she says was inspired by contradictory worlds: a classic polo match setting and a gritty cityscape. “Technically, the two shouldn’t work together, but they come together to create a very modern look. It’s a form of color blocking, but done in a different and more wearable way,” the designer explains. The evolution of color blocking continues at Keds. For women, the brand is offering brights and adding more pastel shades of purple, yellow, green and pink. Additionally, Director of Product Donnie Brooks says you’ll see an introduction of color blocking via floral prints and nautical stripes. Bed Stü is taking a less literal approach to color blocking as well, creating a gradient effect with overlapped layering and fading techniques. Green and red are prominent in the line but are toned down with beige and natural touches. “From uppers to outsoles and across a

FW_06_Spring fashion.indd 21

5/22/12 4:24 PM

“When our outlook is gloomy, we instinctively look back to a time before when things seemed better.” range of materials, white and off-white will play an interesting role,” says Roger Orozco, creative director. Similarly, designer Bettye Muller plans on taking a simpler approach to mixing colors by pairing candied hues with bright modern whites. “Traditional color-on-color blocking seems a bit played out,” she notes. Ann Dittrich, creative director of Dansko, agrees: When it comes to color, less is more. “People are hungry for color, but you have to temper it,” she explains. “If there’s too much design and color, people don’t know how to wear it.” Dansko is taking a spin on the color wheel next spring with primary shades. “There’s an enormous amount of attention to them this year,” Dittrich says, noting the company sees its customers wanting to build their wardrobe beyond basics. By keeping silhouettes simple, clean and easy-to-wear, Dansko is counting on bold colors, like cherry red and cobalt blue, to play up the cute-factor of its retro-inspired sandals.

REACH THE BEACHES In addition to a vibrant palette, the underlying current of Spring ’13 is designers’ apparent aching for summer vacations of yesteryear. Specifically, iconic coastal locations offer key design cues, which include

neon lights, Art Deco architecture, palm trees and sailboats. It is inspiring the Keds design team to incorporate stripes, polka dots and nautical color combinations that also make up Jellypops’ line of washed canvas casuals and wedges. Wedges remain key to Sperry Top-Sider’s Miami-inspired styles. “We want to dominate the beach and have created an amazing assortment of sandals, which can take our girl from a day at the beach to the evening at the club,” O’Brien says. For spring, the beach-friendly brand is blending sandy neutrals with playful South Beach pops of faded neons and preppy pink and green. “We definitely love the influence that color denim has on footwear. There is a literal trickle-down effect, and our consumer is not afraid to wear color on her shoes,” he adds. If choppy waves and clam bakes are more your customers’ style, O’Brien says Sperry Top-Sider’s rich heritage falls in line with the fresh take on New England seaside style that is also trending for the season. From its re-invented classic A/O boat shoe with more feminine proportions and a lower-profile outsole to sandals and wedges with traditional sailor’s knots and anchor details, O’Brien says the design team delivered with a flirty approach to yachting mixed with traditional Ivy League style.

FW_06_Spring fashion.indd 22

5/22/12 4:25 PM

Another brand looking to capture the shore’s carefree air is Sorel, which is shedding its winter boots heritage in the process. With only one spring collection under its belt, Sorel is warming up to its newfound title as a year-round brand with the debut of its first group of peep toe wedges—a mix of distressed leather and canvas—and re-inventing its best-selling blanket boot (introduced this fall) in lighter, unlined materials for the warmer months. Inspired by 1930s seaside resorts and beachwear, Erin Sander, Sorel’s product line manager, says the design team was intrigued with the notion that people used to wear proper sand- and water-specific shoes to the beach long before flip-flops became a staple. As a result, Sorel is offering a new range of lightweight plimsolls that could have shuffled straight off a vintage boardwalk postcard, thanks in part to bleaching effects that lend a soft weathered and vintage look. “When our outlook is gloomy, we instinctively look back to a time before when things seemed better,” Butter’s Geist says. After fashion’s long-winded love affair with Mad Men-inspired fit-and-flair dresses and brogues, the designer is excited about the lean lines and fluidity of 1930s-inspired fashion that she sees in the pipeline. The relaxed, luxurious look calls for single-sole flats, pointed toes and feminine wedges, Geist reports. “Think of an elegant garden party out on a patio,” she says. Delicate lattice-like cutouts, lace-inspired twisting and wrapping details, and liberty prints on the slim silhouettes and on Butter’s signature espadrilles and ballet flats tell the feminine story. Chow of Jellypop coins the movement towards more ladylike silhouettes as, “tailor me pretty,” noting that thick platforms with a chunky heel and wooden clogs have over-saturated the market. Muller agrees: “Girls are dressing up, and styles like kitten heels and sleek pumps allow them to do it effortlessly.” Still, the androgynous look of smoking loafers and oxfords are expected to continue into spring, relating back to The Great Gatsby-inspired trend that started for this fall. In anticipation of the film’s remake, Brooks of Keds says the brand channeled characters Jay Gatsby and Daisy Buchanan. “There’s definitely a return to sophisticated dressing and we’ve covered it in spades with great oxford stories for men and women. We’ve imagined Jay down by the sea wall in his crisp white linen suit looking across the bay for that telltale light,” he describes. Intense metallics and mirror-like cap toes help glamorize the Gatsby look. In fact, a

FW_06_Spring fashion.indd 23

number of designers are tapping metallics as the new neutral. “Bronze is our substitute for brown,” explains Dittrich of Dansko, adding its version has a subdued hint of shimmer that easily blends into women’s wardrobes. After seasons of basic neutrals and familiar silhouettes, designers agree that, from a fashion standpoint, footwear is moving in a refreshing direction with slimmer silhouettes, fresh color and pretty accents for Spring ’13. Muller recalls

her last (and slightly disappointing) trip to Bergdorf Goodman’s shoe parlor: “It was a really busy Sunday and there were tons of women trying super-high platform stilettos. I couldn’t believe there were so many women wanting this style of shoe, but when you stop and think about it, it’s all they have seen for so many seasons,” she says. “I think the tide is turning and with so much newness hitting Tumblr and Pinterest, people are eager to find diverse looks.”

5/22/12 4:25 PM

POP

S TA R

Seeking shoes with personality and pop, Tracy Margolies, vice president DMM of women’s footwear for Saks Fifth Avenue, reveals how gut feelings play an important role in determining which styles make the cut inside one of the nation’s leading arbiters of footwear fashion. By Greg Dutter

ROWING UP, TRACY Margolies wasn’t exactly sure what she wanted to be one day. She entertained thoughts of becoming a psychologist, but the retail bug bit her early on, which (in part) was due to hereditary factors. “My grandmother was in the retail business, so I always had it in my blood,” she says, adding that while attending the University of Maryland, she interned at Bloomingdale’s and really became hooked. “That’s when I said to myself that I wanted to be a buyer.” Margolies confesses, however, that she really didn’t know back then entirely what being a buyer entailed. “I thought it was just picking out pretty shoes and clothing, but I quickly learned that there is a financial component, which makes me love the job more,” she says. Margolies’ first job out of college was at Bergdorf Goodman, where she started out at the bottom and worked her way up. She came on as the women’s shoe divisional merchandise manager at Saks almost seven years ago and has loved her job ever since. Actually, shopping the world for the finest women’s shoes is a dream for Margolies. “It’s more like my hobby,” she says, adding that the unexpected nature of the retail business is a refreshing bonus. “Each day, you think it’s going to go one way, but it always goes another,” she offers. “That’s just the power of retail: It’s always busy and it’s everchanging.” Here, Margolies discusses her favorite shoes, personal style and up-and-coming designers at Saks, among other intriguing topics, as well as the elusive “pop” factor when it comes to picking shoes for the chain’s coveted floor displays.

Whose shoes are you wearing today? I’m wearing YSL leopard print heels. They’re not new, but they’re an old favorite. Which did you pick first: the shoes or the outfit? The shoes. I really wanted to wear these today. How old were you when you bought your first pair of high heels? I was 21. I guess it was a little old for a first purchase. And how many pairs of shoes are currently in your closet? Too many to count, but a girl can never have too many pairs of shoes. What is your go-to-style? I don’t have one in particular, but my go-to silhouette is a high heel. I always wear high heels. How would you describe your personal style? I would say that it’s fashionable but timeless. I prefer pieces that I could always wear again. Also, I want something that always makes me feel good. I like to look down at my shoes and smile. How much is your personal style reflected in Saks’ merchandise mix? It’s pretty evident but, overall, it has a bit more edge to it. When choosing which styles make the cut at Saks, how much of it is your gut feeling as opposed to what a spreadsheet might read? The initial selection by our team is primarily based on a gut feeling. The financials serve more as checks and balances to what finally makes the cut. So when you look at a particular style, do you have a sense right away that there’s something special or not? Yes, I know in the first few seconds when I

In her element: Tracy Margolies in Saks’ New York flagship.

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

FW_06_Margolies_02.indd 24

5/22/12 10:04 AM

Affordable. Convenient. Productive. The shoe show ranked America’s best by industry show attendees.

THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET | AUGUST 17-19, 2012

COBB GALLERIA CENTRE & RENAISSANCE WAVERLY HOTEL FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER

FOP_25 25

FOR SHOW INFORMATION CONTACT 706.923.0580

atlantashoemarket.com 5/22/12 9:58:08 AM

“I know in the first few seconds when I see a shoe. That’s when I go a lot with my gut; it’s really an emotional feeling, and you feel it when you see it.” see a shoe. That’s why I go a lot with my gut; it’s really an emotional feeling, and you feel it when you see it. With the amount of shoes you must be looking at, that’s a lot of gut checking, no? During market season, it is a lot of shoes. And that’s a really hard part of the job—controlling your gut. You’ve got to make some hard decisions eventually. How would you describe your buying philosophy overall? You definitely have to take risks and you go by emotion a lot. I also buy what my customers are asking for. While I’m dictating fashion to a certain extent—and that’s why you have to take some risks— looking at what is selling and what people are wearing tells me what customers want. What’s your favorite season to shop for? I love to shop for fall because I love boots. I love wearing boots, I love buying boots and I love that there are so many different boot options. Where do you look for inspiration and direction when preparing for an upcoming season? I’m always looking at what people are wearing on the street. Actually, I always start down and then look up to get the whole picture. What are some of your favorite cities for trend spotting? New York is amazing, and Paris is great, too. Who or what is having the biggest influence on footwear fashion today? I think celebrities are having a big influence on footwear fashion right now, like Lady Gaga, for example. I also think social media is having a significant influence, especially bloggers. They are playing a more important role today. They cause an immediate demand. They get people excited about fashion. Like Tavi Gevinson’s influence? Yes. It’s kind of amazing what she has been able to achieve. I wasn’t that career-oriented at 15 years old (laughs). The Saks shoe department is known for giving new designers a chance. Which up-and-coming designers are currently on your radar? We’re always looking for new designers. Right now, Nicholas Kirkwood and Tabitha Simmons are two we are high on. I love their creativity, their design and how they pay attention to detail. I also feel like they have personality in their footwear. You can look at some shoes where nothing makes it distinctive. Their shoes have a distinct personality. There’s a pop to it.

Did you foresee that trend coming, or was it more due to the spectacular run of warm, sunny weather this spring that helped it along? I think that color just looks really fresh on the floor and it’s eye-catching. For fall, I think the trend will continue, but there will obviously be more rich, sophisticated shades. What about boots for this fall, noting how the mild weather had somewhat of a negative impact on certain styles and brands? I feel as though the seasons are blending into each other almost. Fortunately, you can wear boots pretty much all year ’round, except maybe in July and August. I also think that boots look cute with a dress, so that adds to the staying power of the category. Overall, I think boots have become a basic, whereas Ugg is really a cold-weather buy, so unfortunately that had an impact on its business this year. But I look at them as a very separate business compared to other boot resources, and it’s now more of a replenishment model. Are there any key trends you are eying for Spring ’13? We are always looking for something new. Is there anything missing in fashion footwear right now? What would you like to see more of ? I would like to see more fashion on a mid heel. That has been an ongoing void in footwear. So something that looks spectacular, but it’s not sky-high. Are there any shoe styles that should go the way of fanny packs? At first, I thought you were asking what I would wear with a fanny pack, and my answer is sneakers (laughs). But to answer your question correctly, I don’t really think there is a style that should never return. And we don’t carry Crocs, so they don’t really bother me. In buying for the whole chain, does the mix change much from city to city? We like to do that. We spend a lot of time talking with our store managers, as well as visiting them, to learn about their unique preferences. We also take into consideration the different climates of each city. It’s important to look at your buys based off of an individual location. Any cities that like to take more fashion risks than others? Definitely Miami and also Houston, Atlanta and, obviously, New York and L.A. Houston? Yes. It’s a fun city. They really like their shoe fashion.

Is it hard to find that pop? I think that there’s a lot of talent in the industry. And there are just so many ways a designer can be creative in making footwear. It can be with the heel details, materials, toe shapes—there are just so many ways. That’s what makes the footwear industry so unique.

Is there a perfect shoe, and can you describe it? It’s a sexy stiletto that’s also comfortable—one that I could wear all day and into the night. And I was also thinking that it could burn calories, too. You know that FitFlop sandal? I was so intrigued by the concept that if I could wear these YSL shoes that I’m wearing right now and it burned calories, then that would really be something.

Is your merchandise mix benefiting from the color rush that is sweeping fashion of late? Sure. We are definitely selling a lot of color. And it’s exciting to see our customers react to that.

What do you love most about your job? I love the people, as there are some really terrific ones in the industry. I also love merchandising and, of course, I love the shoes. •

26 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

FW_06_Margolies_02.indd 26

5/22/12 10:05 AM

Join ENKWSA for Opening Night Olympic Celebration sponsored by

60+ Countries. 5 Continents. 1 Powerful Footwear Marketplace.

AUG7.8.9

The Sands Expo Center . Las Vegas . enkwsa.com Sourcing@enkshows.com . Buyer@enkshows.com FOP_27 27

WHERE PEOPLE COME TO DO BUSINESS

5/23/12 3:46:43 PM

TREASURE CHEST

Manhattan’s latest “It” boutique eschews big-name brands in favor of under-the-radar gems—all amassed in one spectacular setting. By Lyndsay McGregor

IRST THING’S FIRST: It’s called Fivestory, but it’s actually just two floors of a townhouse on East 69th Street between Madison and Fifth Avenues. Or 3,456 square feet of prized sales space in Manhattan’s tony Upper East Side. It’s a wellcurated heaven for discriminating shoppers, as well as a bold move by the father-daughter team behind the latest luxury retail concept to try and make it in the Big Apple. Claire Distenfeld, 26, a native New Yorker and former gallerist, says she decided to jump into retail because she felt her hometown’s offerings were falling short of her expectations: “I wasn’t discovering or experiencing an environment; I was feeling that things were more strategic and cold,” Distenfeld says. “I guess I really wanted to create a place with character and charm, that felt timeless and evolving all at the same time.” So with the help of her father, Fred, who for years ran Luxury

Accessories International (an importer of exotic skins, as well as a bags and belts manufacturer), the duo decided to open a boutique. She spotted the building and the rest, as they say, is history. Well, not quite that easy. The brownstone was actually being sold as a residence, but Distenfeld was persistent and eventually convinced the owners to sell her the space she needed for the store. From there, she hired renowned interior designer Ryan Korban (the visionary who pimped out Alexander Wang’s downtown shop with a fur hammock) and started handpicking pieces from her favorite designers. “Fivestory is special in that it’s not all about the product. It’s about the home the product lives in, the music that surrounds it and the feeling you get before ever seeing a dress, a candle or a shoe,” she says. But even with the backing of her father, diving headfirst into retail from the art world was not an easy transition. “Thank God I jumped blindly, because if I’d known what I was in for, it would have been much scarier!” she confesses. “But if you keep your head in the game, be resourceful and forward-thinking, you can always find a solution to any challenge.”

28 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

fw_06_retail_profile_01.indd 28

5/22/12 4:26 PM

A selection of Cole Haan

Tipping her hat to nearby store competitors shoes at Fivestory. (most notably the three Bs: Barneys, Bergdorf ’s and Bendel’s), Distenfeld says, “I really sought after labels or styles that are unique and special—more like pieces of art than a basic black pump.” In other words, Fivestory is stuffed full of names you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else in the city, let alone the neighborhood. Despite its Upper East Side location, the store has a distinctly Parisian feel (fashion insiders haven’t called it New York’s answer to Colette for nothing) with emerald green walls, black-and-white marble floors and staircases lined with wrought iron balustrade. Distenfeld’s background in fine art—she previously worked for Sotheby’s and the New Museum—has afforded her a sharp eye, which is reflected in Fivestory’s impeccably curated selection of women’s and men’s clothing, jewelry, home and baby goods, and footwear. The latter department is tucked away in the back of the boutique and is definitely the piéce de rèsistance: “It was kind of a no-brainer to dedicate it to shoes and make it a shoe garden,” says Distenfeld of the sky lit area, where a Liberty of Londonprint hidden wedge sneaker by Nike sits next to a Chrissie Morris striped stingray heel. And while one is priced at $130 and the other at $900, Distenfeld holds both items in equal regard. Likewise, Nina Ricci strappy sandals and classic Rochas pumps sit atop flower-filled bronze shelves meant to look like tree branches. “Trying on shoes, for a woman, should be a special experience, a personal one,” she explains. “So we created a place where a woman can really appreciate the power a shoe can bring to elevate oneself both mentally, emotionally and aesthetically.” Since opening in April, top sellers have included a Carven x Robert Clergerie platform oxford, a geometric-heeled platform by French label Aperlai and a Del Toro banana leaf slipper that Distenfeld herself designed exclusively for Fivestory. She’s quick to note that the overall footwear selection is not about following trends; it’s about digging for treasure

through the store’s high-low merchandise mix and striking style gold. And that’s a theory her customers, who she says know how personal a shoe can be and thus appreciate her selection, can get in bed with. “Whether they aspire to be unique or are just aesthetically-minded, our customer is one who appreciates a lifestyle dedicated to being special, being themselves and always pushing further to be unique,” she says, adding that if anyone ever wanted to pop in, have a glass of wine, listen to some Nina Simone and try on a beautiful pair of shoes, she is always welcome. “The luxury market is something, in my opinion, that should always be relevant. Whether in times of feast or famine, a woman should know that something well-made, unique and timeless is what should be saved up for or splurged on.” With that being said, and with all there is already to offer, could this be the opening chapter of a Fivestory chain? “I never say never,” Distenfeld reveals. •

The stories at Fivestory; the shoe garden; Fred and Claire Distenfeld. june 2012 • footwearplusmagazine.com 29

fw_06_retail_profile_01.indd 29

5/22/12 4:26 PM

Conference Champs Highlighted by the roast of Clarks’ Joe Salzano, the 19th annual USRA May Event featured a plethora of speakers offering insights, inspiration and ideas for the taking for independent retailers. By Greg Dutter

Joe Salzano

Bob Infantino

Angel Martinez

Gary Champion

RECORD TURNOUT OF both exhibitors and retailers fueled a vibrant USRA May Event conference held this year at the J.W. Marriott Resort in Las Vegas. More than 300 attendees spent three days networking, placing orders (from among 65 exhibitors) and learning ways to improve their businesses. A parade of industry heavyweights made keynote addresses, including Bob Infantino, president of DryDock Footwear; Angel Martinez, CEO of Deckers Outdoor; Gary Champion, president of Earth Brands; Tarek Hassan, co-owner of The Tannery; Joe Gradia, co-owner of Hawley-Lane Shoes; and Leslie Gallin, vice president of FN Platform. The roast of Salzano, vice president of sales for Clarks, brought the house down. Infantino, who worked alongside Salzano first at Altier’s Shoes in Rochester, NY, more than 30 years ago and later on at Rockport and Clarks, served as the master of ceremonies for the good-natured ribbing. Joining him on the dais were Champion; Gary Weiner, president of Saxon Shoes; Clarks sales veteran Tom Austin; Tiffani Trujillo, former Clarks rep and now a rep for Earthies; and Jim Salzano, his son and current president of Clarks Companies N.A. No punches were pulled, there were plenty of references to spittle (you had to be there) and the humor got saucy at times, but the genuine respect for Salzano’s five decades of unwavering commitment to helping footwear retailers become better at their businesses shone through the entire time. Capping off the surprise roast was Salzano’s wife, two of his brothers and two of his other sons who were flown in by Clarks for what was also his 75th birthday celebration. At the end of the night, several of the Salzanos—Joe on sax and Jim on drums—hopped on stage for a jam session as they are all accomplished jazz musicians. As for the learning aspects, they were kicked off by Champion’s eloquent explanation on why the May Event is significant—specifically, the opportunity to network with retailers and vendors in a relaxed setting. That ability, he noted, leads to connections that can become meaningful friendships. From there, it leads to truly understanding each other’s businesses with mutual care and respect. “The relationships become like family, and that’s what brings me back to the May Event each year,” Champion said. Infantino opened his keynote address by proclaiming that “average is officially over” and explaining the meaning of W.I.I.F.Y. (What’s In It For You). Infantino said that second best is no longer good enough due, in large part, to the immediacy of the Internet. Using the analogy of Bubba

Watson’s Masters tournament-winning putt, the news came across his phone seconds after it dropped into the cup. “We hold as much information in the palm of our hand as the New York Public Library and it is available to us instantaneously,” he noted. “There are no secrets anymore and the overall curve has been raised.” As for defining W.I.I.F.Y., Infantino showcased the success story of the Wegmans supermarket chain, which started out years ago as a one-store independent focused on delivering the best assortment and customer experience possible. It has since grown into a regional chain doing about $5 billion in annual sales—without ever losing sight of its original premise of offering a top-notch customer experience. “Wegmans always has the self-interests of its end user top of mind,” Infantino said, and then made the leap to politics. Specifically, he noted how the famous campaign line, “Are you better off than you were four years ago?” made by President Ronald Reagan as he sought a second term was a W.I.I.F.Y.-laden message to voters. In contrast, if President John F. Kennedy made his famous, “Ask not what your country can do for you—ask what you can do for your country,” statement before that election, he might very well never been elected because it is lacking in W.I.I.F.Y.-like qualities. Infantino went on to cite several shoe retailers that possess W.I.I.F.Y. characteristics, including The Tannery for its curated merchandise mix where customers need not worry about whether it’s cool or not. (If it’s in The Tannery, then it’s already passed that test.) He complimented Brown’s Shoe Fit for its close ties to its respective Midwest communities as well the owners David and Mary Astobiza of Sole Desire for their focus on product, which includes a private label collection that is not about margin as much as it is about offering its customers something no one in their area will have. Other Infantino shout-outs went to Schuler’s Shoes in Minnesota and Footprints in Connecticut for their successes in serving the needs of customers with medical issues. He closed by explaining why his favorite shot in basketball was the tip-in and not the more popular slam dunk or three-point bomb. “It reflects how the team is all working toward the same goal,” Infantino noted. Martinez of Deckers Outdoor offered a bevy of insights about the power of brands and how, in particular, retailers must understand that their store is also a brand. Unlike with most consumer package goods where the ones with the biggest marketing budget pretty much fall into the shopping cart, Martinez noted how the footwear >35

30 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

FW_06_12_MayEvent_02.indd 30

5/23/12 12:58 PM

TAKEAWAYS... “Bob Infantino stating that average is no longer acceptable in today’s business environment. And Tarek Hassan demonstrating how The Tannery’s successful collaborations with specific vendors separates it from the competition and also demonstrates how he does not accept average in his approach to business.” —Bill Lucas, national sales manager, Crocs “Talking with retailers and learning perspectives on tackling standard retail problems. Angel Martinez’s insights about corporate culture—specifically, how ‘crap flows downhill.’ It led to great conversations amongst our management team. And since my phone rings off the hook from vendors wanting to show their wares, without the pressure of a trade show this allowed me to walk from table to table and meet with dozens of brands.” —Marc Takken, VP of merchandising, Takken’s Shoes “As a first-time attendee, the opportunity to network with top management and retail peers was valuable. But the highlight was honoring Joe Salzano. Back in 1974 during college, I worked part time in my family shoe business and did a college internship at Altier’s. I learned all I could about operating a shoe business from Joe. I have always been grateful for the training and passion he had for the industry. It was wonderful that the USRA honored him.” —Paul Muller, VP of merchandising, Foot Solutions “The biggest takeaway was the revelation that we had finally broken down the barriers between the NSRA and USRA, since many board members of the former retail organization attended the event. Both sides were able to talk to each other and realize that we all want the same thing: to support independent shoe retailers.” —Beth Bartholomew, sales director, Clarks “I came away with the inspiration to get my social networking up to speed. I heard a lot of good ideas about the different avenues of reaching consumers through the web as well as email.” —Max Hanberg, owner, Solvang Shoes “This year’s May Event was the best ever. The key messages related to the importance of keeping the consumer front of mind when making brand decisions (Angel Martinez), defining objectives clearly (Dan Lier) and making brick-and-mortar store a true experience (Bob Infantino and Tarek Hassan) were all great. —Kitty Bolinger, national sales manager, Dansko “The ability to trade information with other retailers and vendors was invaluable. Saxon will look at a few new brands and consider some new advertising promotions based on conversations I had.” —Gary Weiner, owner, Saxon Shoes “The robustness of the May Event, the caliber of speakers and the friendships renewed and made were tremendous. I learned branding comes from the top, but also from within. Angel Martinez made that clear and Bob Infantino always does.” —Peggy Kim Meil, president, Dimmi “We are no longer in the shoe industry but in the hospitality industry. Thanks to the May Event, I have already gotten three retailers to begin offering bottled waters and coffee/tea to their customers.” —Danny Silver, regional sales manager, Earth Brands “I learned so much from retailers outside my territory about how they market outside my bubble. It made me a more well-rounded rep and gave me a chance to meet other reps in my region so we can become friends, not just competitors.” —Evan Jacobowitz, sales rep, Skechers

FW_06_12_MayEvent_02.indd 31

5/23/12 12:58 PM

whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s selling

boutiques

SHOES AT SURREY Augusta, GA

LOCATED IN AUGUSTAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S premier open-air Surrey Shopping Center, this boutique is keeping customers happy with its wide selection of handbags and highend shoes that include Frye, Donald J Pliner and Tory Burch in its 2,800-square-foot space. Owner Catherine Boardman says its assortment is sure to cater to the needs of its many customers who vary from â&#x20AC;&#x153;the really cutting-edge to the very traditional, classic lady.â&#x20AC;? The store, which opened in 2009, has netted consistently rising sales figures over the last year and Boardman is optimistic that the success will carry on for the rest of 2012, as well as at its new location in Charleston, SC, Shoes on King, set to open in early fall. By Maria Bouselli

Howâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s business? We have seen an upward trend in multiple sales and overall sales. Our clientele is less resistant to price than in the recent past. For a beautiful boot, our customer is willing to pay up to $600.

Who do you think is the greatest shoe designer of all time and why? Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a hard question! My favorite current designer would have to be Stuart Weitzman because my taste tends more towards the classic, and Stuart always has a fresh presentation. He also understands the need for various widths and properly fitting shoes, and heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always such a nice guy when you visit his showroom.

Is there a designer or style uniquely popular to your locale? Sesto Meucci golf shoes are awfully popular in Augusta because we host The Masterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tournament every year.

Are there any new brands added to your store selection that are performing well of late? For spring, we brought in a new brand called Eneka. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a stylish comfort shoe made in Spain, and it has been very popular for us.

SHOE & SHE Hamden, CT

AFTER LIVING IN Hamden for more than 20 years, native New Yorker Shelley Allen decided it was time to bring her big city style to the Nutmeg state. She opened the 900-squarefoot store five years ago, putting brands such as Jack Rogers, Aquatalia and Robert Zur on the radar of her over-30 customer base. Allenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s boutique is more than just a shoe storeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a favorite spot for locals to catch up in, especially with its neighboring clothing store and beauty salon. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Women are always coming over here and trying stuff on with hair dye on their head,â&#x20AC;? Allen jokes.

How have your sales been in the last year? My numbers are up, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not that consistent. I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all weather-driven. The people here in town buy for the moment, like when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s already hot out, they go in their closet to pull out a sandal and realize they have to buy a new pair.

What are current popular brands at Shoe & She? I do very well with Aquatalia, Everybody, Sam Edelman and FitFlop. Two new brands I added this year are Calleen Cordero and Remix. Remix just blew out of here. It does a lot of vintage and platform-type shoes. With Calleen Cordero, everything is handmade in the States, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pricey, around $400. I brought in three styles and have had to re-order them already.

Is there anything that you think is missing in the designer market right now? Yes, a really good, comfortable ballet flat that comes up high enough so it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t give you [toe] cleavage. A lot of ballet flats are made for younger women, and most older women have problems with their feet and need a comfortable shoe. The closest thing that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen [to that] is the smoking loafer, which is an older style thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been re-done. And I just canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to find the perfect pump thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s both comfortable and sexy.

POPULAR ACCESSORIES:

Ä&#x2018;ĆŤ %#$3 5ĆŤ .+//ÄĄ + 5ĆŤ$ * #/Ä&#x2039; Ä&#x2018;ĆŤ #/ĆŤ 5ĆŤ !-1+% ĆŤ .%/Ä&#x152;ĆŤ ĆŤ ĆŤ (( !ĆŤ * ĆŤ . "ĆŤÄ&#x2019;ĆŤ *06Ä&#x2039; Ä&#x2018;ĆŤ !.""ĆŤ $.%/0% */!*ĆŤ ÄĄ/$%.0/Ä?ĆŤ0$!5ĆŤ .!ĆŤ#.! 0ĆŤ"+.ĆŤ( 5!.%*#ĆŤ and I am constantly reordering them.

32 footwearplusmagazine.com â&#x20AC;˘ june 2012

FW_06_WhatsSelling_03.indd 32

5/22/12 1:27 PM

FOP_33 33

5/22/12 9:58:17 AM

TREND SPOTTING 1

1. slip-on sneaker by Aetrex 2. Blossom patent stiletto 3. Adidas by Stella McCartney sneaker 4. Walk-Over men’s lace-up 5. Onitsuka Tiger sneaker 6. Casadei architectural heel 7. Two Lips cork wedge.

3 5 4

Are You Putting Neon? An ’80s color trip heats up an eclectic mix of styles. 34

fw_06_trendspotting_01.indd 34

5/22/12 1:23 PM

continued from page 13

inventories and receive orders in a matter of days—all at a low price. “That’s what OffPrice allows a lot of stores to do—move goods in and out quickly,” Krogulski states. Made up of more than “130,000 square feet of opportunity,” the show features everything from men’s, women’s and children’s apparel; accessories and a growing footwear segment. Krogulski reports that footwear now takes up almost 7 percent of the floor space. For the August edition, OffPrice will move to the first floor of the Sands Convention Center, and Krogulski warns that attendees will have to work around construction. To ease their navigation, OffPrice is incorporating tools and maps that let buyers see the selling floor layout prior to the show. “They’re going to want to spend a little time getting familiar with the floor plan so they know where they’re going,” he suggests. In addition, OffPrice will be expanding upon its “Connection” program, which launched in February and is designed as a “matchmaking” service to connect retailers and exhibitors that have similar audiences, interests and profiles. “We use it to help retailers mingle and make more use of their time by networking before the show,” Krogulski says. The Connection program will also feature an educational component, in which attendees can learn about topics like using social media to market their stores and introducing ecommerce. Krogulski says Offprice has a lot to offer footwear retailers that are interested in incorporating other categories into their product mix. Likewise, footwear brands and manufacturers can capitalize on the show’s expanding segment. “Footwear was a natural fit for the show because a lot of our retailers are smaller shops that carry more apparel and maybe wanted to try footwear but just didn’t know where to find it,” he says.

ENKWSA: FAST COMPANIES David Kahan, president of ENK Footwear Group, is the first to admit that ENKWSA—which takes place on Aug. 7-9 at the Sands Convention Center in Las Vegas—isn’t the show for everyone. “But for those in the [fast-fashion] industry—affordable fashion chains, boutiques who buy affordable fashion, chains who carry privatelabel footwear, and design and development teams from the branded footwear companies—this is the show focused solely on your segment of the business,” he declares. While the show will continue to feature exhibitors from all corners of the sourcing world, there are some changes underway for the upcoming August edition. First, Kahan says there will be a new section dedicated entirely to young, small and emerging resources, as well as an expanded men’s footwear zone. It will also increase the scope of the contract manufacturing area, which will have its own hall in the convention center and will cover all elements of the supply chain, including factory direct suppliers, materials and design resources. ENKWSA is also growing its seminar series and will present a seminar by Lineapelle, one of the leading Italian leather materials groups, who will discuss upcoming footwear trends. With representatives from more than 35 countries around the world—including factories from China, Pakistan, Thailand, Indonesia, Taiwan, India and more—the show will celebrate with an Olympic-themed opening-night reception. Kahan says ENKWSA attendance is expected to grow and that February’s upbeat mood gave terrific momentum for the upcoming event. “As challenging as the economy may be, the fashion end of the business—especially women’s—is always driven by exciting products,” Kahan notes. “Our exhibitors continue to bring great new styles, dynamic new colors and, most importantly, quick-to-market capabilities that capture trends so that retailers can meet consumer needs as they happen.” •

continued from page 30 industry is unique as brands drive consumers to stores, but once they enter it’s up to retailers to convert the sale. And how that store’s brand is perceived plays a huge role in that conversion. “The salesperson has to explain the products, get the samples from the back, fit the person properly—they can have tremendous influence on that customer,” he offered. Martinez added, however, that most retailers negate that responsibility. “These days you’re lucky if a salesperson walks over to you; they are not schooled in the product and they don’t know their assortment,” he said. Martinez said protecting and investing in that in-store experience is the best way to compete with online retailers. “The tactile experience of trying on shoes is immediate, but you also need assortments that are hard to replicate online, a well-trained staff and an environment that gets people to come back,” he said. “You have to make it feel like they are visiting their friends when they come into your store. That need for human interaction—be it telling a joke or talking about politics— are reasons to go into stores.” Martinez added that while it may seem mundane to industry members, plenty of people love shoes. “Where can they go to get exposed to know all there is to know about shoes— the leathers, the fit, the benefits, etc.?” he proposed. “Consumers love learning about that stuff; they tell their friends about it and it brings them back into your store.” Along those lines, Martinez warned about falling into the trap of offering the same products as everyone else because it becomes an unwinnable price war as there’s always someone else willing to sell it a little cheaper. Besides, he noted, that’s not why consumers go into stores any more; now if they want to buy something cheap they shop online. “When it comes to shoe shopping, there is a lot more consumers want than just the lowest price. And we have to embrace that dynamic and differentiate ourselves aggressively,” Martinez said. Part of that requires keeping the merchandise fresh and updating on a regular basis. “Consumers have become innovation junkies,” he noted. “They want to see freshness all the time.” What used to be twice a year brand updates have become six times a year in many instances. The same rule of thumb applies to store displays and fixtures, another area that Martinez said needs improving. “You wouldn’t see Broadway plays if they used the same staging for every one, would you?” Martinez asked the crowd. “You control the scene and you can make a product look new by creating a new environment.” He added, “Too many stores look drab and boxes are piled everywhere. Your business would be better if you excite that customer and tap into their innovation-hungry minds.” Tarek Hassan, co-owner of The Tannery in Boston, offered his insights on how to be on the cutting-edge, starting with the ability to be microscopic in one’s approach to detail without losing the human touch. Studying reports and spreadsheets, Hassan warned, will only get you so far. He advised interacting with customers as often as possible. “You have to become intimate with their thoughts and concerns and what they find meaningful,” he offered. “If any separation creeps in between you and your customers, it will lead to misinformed buys.” Hassan likened The Tannery’s approach to that of special-ops: being nimble and precise enough to turn on a dime to meet the changing demands of customers. Gradia of Hawley Lane Shoes, based in Norwalk, CT, talked about how family-focused independents can adapt and thrive in a challenging retail landscape. Advice included focusing on what makes your store unique, always planning ahead, following through and thinking outside the box. Gradia noted, “The days of meeting with a particular rep on a seasonal basis are over.” He also stressed that a successful May Event can involve just taking home one great idea. Last year, it was a $10 gift card that Hawley-Lane adopted. On the back of the card was a promotional code that allowed employees to get a spiff when used. “In addition to being a way for employees to earn extra revenue, the card promotes the business offsite and 24/7,” he said. • 2012 june • footwearplusmagazine.com 35

FW_06_12_MayEvent_02.indd 35

5/23/12 12:58 PM

lulu_revise_first_spread.indd 36

5/24/12 8:34 AM

Designers channel the alluring style of a bygone era PHOTOGRAPHY BY GLYNIS SELINA ARBAN Lace-embellished stilettos by Chelsea Paris. Vintage dress, Linda Varaday Berman slip and jewelry. Opposite: gown by Southpaw Vintage. 37

lulu_revise_first_spread.indd 37

5/24/12 8:34 AM

On him: Giorgio Brutini spectators. Suit by Homini Emerito, Bar III shirt, socks by Falke. On her: Kate Spade New York featherembellished stilettos. Zara dress, Cara New York jewelry.

fw_06_3.indd 38

5/23/12 2:00 PM

fw_06_3.indd 39

5/23/12 2:00 PM

Embroidered pumps by Born Crown. Opposite: Ryan Haber stilettos with gold heel. Southpaw Vintage gown, Falke hosiery, bracelet by Linda Varady Berman, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s necklace. 40

fw_06_3.indd 40

5/23/12 2:01 PM

fw_06_3.indd 41

5/23/12 2:01 PM

fw_06_3.indd 42

5/23/12 2:01 PM

Opposite page: Nina Payne metallic T-strap flats. Swimsuit by Juicy Couture, Southpaw Vintage swim cap.

fw_06_3.indd 43

5/23/12 2:01 PM

fw_06_3.indd 44

5/23/12 2:02 PM

Lace-ups by Giorgio Brutini. Jacket and shirt by Doyle Mueser Bespoke, Express trousers, socks by Falke. Opposite page: (on him) Florsheim by Duckie Brown tuxedo shoes. Shirt and pants by H&M. (On her) Bettye Muller sequin-embellished stiletto sandals. Frock NYC vintage dress, Linda Varady Berman bracelets, Falke hosiery.

fw_06_3.indd 45

5/23/12 2:02 PM

fw_06_3.indd 46

5/23/12 2:02 PM

Nanette Lepore dress, floral headpiece by Linda Varaday Berman, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s scarf. Opposite: Coye Nokes feather-embellished T-strap. H&M dress, jewelry by Cara New York. Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez Stylist: Robyn Victoria Fernandes Hair: Elizabeth Morache for Workgroup Makeup: Sheri Teri for Next Artists Models: Ksenia V. at Silent Models, Ryan M. at Boss Models Shot on location at the Scully Estate at Seatuck Environmental Center, Islip, NY

fw_06_3.indd 47

5/23/12 2:02 PM

D E S I G N E R C H AT : FARYL ROBIN

Bow Hunting

Clockwise from top right: Lisa for Donald J Pliner patent flat, red snakeskin ballet shoe by Corso Como, Paul Mayer Attitudes cap-toe flat, French Sole flat embellished with electric wires, suede skimmer by Seychelles.

Turning ordinary flats into little gifts, bows add a dollop of whimsy. E D I T O R’ S P I C K S

What shoe in your closet is currently getting the most wear? It’s motorcycle-inspired with lots of metal ornamentation. I even take sandpaper to my boots to rough them up.

Which is the most fashionable city? Nowhere offers the kind of fashion freedom that New York does. There’s a real appreciation for independent thinkers, designers, stores and stylists.

If you could raid anyone’s closet, whose would it be and why? Carine Roitfeld [former editor in chief of Paris Vogue]. She has a great rock ‘n’ roll look. Even when she’s elegantly dressed up, she has an edge.

If you weren’t designing, what would you be doing? I’d be a farmer or gardener. I’m a big fan of earth, water and sunshine. One day, when I retire, I like to think that I’ll have a farm near the sea with horses and a vineyard.

What is having the biggest influence on fashion right now? Bloggers are having a huge moment. They have an authenticity that doesn’t seem contrived. Many of them also dress in a pure and honest way.

What do you love most about your job? I love the rapid speed of how things develop in this business. It’s fun to show up to work each day knowing today is going to be different from yesterday.

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES

WITH SEASONS BECOMING increasingly fickle and unpredictable, designer Faryl Robin may have been onto something when she decided to design her eponymous line of women’s footwear with specific retailers’ needs in mind, instead of focusing on mass-produced seasonal collections. “We design items that we think women want and need, not just one singular look or trend,” she says. By working closely with mid- to large-sized retailers, learning what their clientele like and seeing what’s missing, Robin is known for keying into styles that help diversify the selling floor and boost sales. “This allows us to stay focused on the best materials, silhouettes and patterns because, too often, if you’re trying to make an entire collection, you start settling for the second best,” she adds. Still, Robin maintains a consistent, signature design aesthetic: downtown rock. “I really appreciate edgy looks that seem like they have a history with beat-up, weathered materials and old leather,” she notes. “I like all shades of black and clean lines that put an emphasis on the raw materials’ imperfections.” Boots, for example, play an important role in fall looks, but Robin sees a “return of pretty” on the horizon, which she adds is a refreshing change from the seasons of chunky, platform shoes. “More people are dressing up,” she notes, counting 1950s-era Sophia Loren and modern-day trendsetter Alexa Chung as influencers. Expect to see more single soles, pointy toes, kid suede, softer hues and kitten heels from Robin in the near future. —Angela Velasquez 48 footwearplusmagazine.com june 2012

FW_06_Shoe_Salon_01.indd 48

5/22/12 1:24 PM

ATHLETIC COMFORT

Rocky Brands Rolling

BOOTS

Dialed in on consumers’ wants and needs, the company’s stable of brands are all on a growth curve.

Durango

FOR 11 CONSECUTIVE quarters, Rocky Brands’ (makers of Rocky, Georgia Boot and Durango) earnings per share have improved on a year-toyear basis. This past quarter, the company saw a wholesale sales increase of 6.5 percent and earnings-per-share advance of 43 percent. “This is really a story that started three years ago when we got focused on our operating platform and strengthening our balance sheet,” says David Sharp, president and CEO. Sharp attributes part of the company’s success, especially in the off-weather months, to listening to consumers and creating a product turnaround that’s close to season. “We’re making a real effort to get equal parts of marketing development, sourcing, marketing research and the voice of the consumer to make sure we have all of the inputs that we need to build a great product,” he says. Durango’s recent reposition from its western roots to a more urban style with “rock ‘n’ roll influence” gives the brand a new opportunity to sell to retailers like Famous Footwear and DSW. For Georgia Boot, the Diamond Trax work boot—which boasts

a slip-resistant sole engineered to actually improve over time— remains a strong seller, while the Long Range collection is the standout for Rocky. “The naming was meant for a product that consumers choose to keep for a long period of time because of its comfort and durability,” Sharp notes of the latter. This boot, which the customer can return within 60 days for a full refund if unsatisfied, offers a six-month outsole warranty and a footbed guaranteed to last a lifetime. In addition, two new Rocky styles to look for this summer are an English equestrian line of boots with waterproof features and soles made for riding and the Rocky Athletic Mobility (RAM) hunting boot that Sharp says is “flexible like a basketball shoe but insulated and water resistant for hunting.” But Sharp may be most excited about the brand’s new line for medical professionals, which will begin shipping in December. The shoe features various inserts with different backs to transform it into a sling-back, a clog and a shoe with a full back. “We’ve shown that to several large retailers and they’ve absolutely loved the story,” he adds. While military, hunting and western style boots all help to boost Rocky Brands’ sales, the work boot category remains the company’s biggest seller, making up approximately 60 percent of the total sales. Sharp is optimistic that this number will only continue to grow. “As we start to see a slow improvement in the unemployment numbers, that bodes well for a company like ours where we’re selling to a lot of blue collar folks,” he says. “As they get back to work, they’re going to buy replacement pairs [of boots], and that’s going to be good for us.” —Maria Bouselli

KIDS STREET

Easy Rider

WORK

Harley-Davidson revs up lifestyle options. HARLEY-DAVIDSON FOOTWEAR, a licensee of Wolverine Worldwide, tends to evoke images of burly bikers with beards and tattoos, as it had dialed in on a strategy of performance product for core bike shops during the past few seasons. The brand is now shifting gears, offering lifestyle designs aimed at a more mainstream audience. The Fall ’12 men’s and women’s collections will feature fashion-forward silhouettes with a hint of the brand’s renowned motorcycle influence. Think: a lot less logos, metal and studs. “When you think of Harley-Davidson, you think of heavy, oiled leather, but with this new direction, we’ve taken some new outsoles and combined them with motorcycle-themed looks,” says Hobie Burgnon, vice president of sales. “It retains the DNA of Harley-Davidson, but with a more contemporary vibe.” Contrary to its foray into lifestyle a few years back (which was largely just takedowns of its performance line), this time around the styles have been reworked from the ground up. While authentic details like buckles and (a few) studs pay homage to the brand’s biker heritage, the new styles feature weathered leathers and subtle logo embossing. “We leveraged what’s going on in today’s marketplace with what we feel is going to go on in the future,” Burgnon reveals, citing a men’s vintage-inspired brown leather chukka as a personal favorite. “It gets the brand out, helps us grow our business even more and helps us reach different consumers.” To that end, the new trend-driven styles will be available at retailers like Zacky’s in New York and other independent boutiques around the country—a world away from the motorcycle dealerships that stock the performance collection. In addition, select Free People stores will carry the women’s line. Suggested retail prices range from $120 to $200. “We made a real concentrated effort to distinguish the two,” he says, noting that people who buy the lifestyle collection want the look of a motorcycle boot, not the lug. “A lot of it has to do with the Harley-Davidson name,” Burgnon adds. The brand will also continue designing innovative performance footwear, which will be available exclusively at HarleyDavidson dealerships nationwide. —Lyndsay McGregor 2012 june • footwearplusmagazine.com 49

FW_06_UpClose_boots_01.indd 49

5/22/12 10:06 AM

ATHLETIC COMFORT

The Meandher man.

OUTDOOR KIDS STREET WORK

Coming to America Australian brand Meandher is prepped and ready to introduce its smart-casual men’s shoes to the U.S. market. AFTER JUST ONE year spent floating around the Australian and Japanese markets, men’s street-style brand Meandher is ready to jump ship—to America, that is. In fact, the brand— known for classics-with-a-twist like oxfords, desert boots, mocs and derby shoes with colorful uppers, outsoles and contrasting laces—is set to launch its first U.S. collection this fall, breaking into what designer Emily Cooper calls “the most prestigious and dynamic market in the world.” Cooper hopes to capture American men’s hearts and wallets with its premium- and comfort-driven designs—the collection uses Italian-sourced leathers and graded lasts for both superb quality and fit—that feature the brand’s signature red heel caps and cross-stitching. According to Cooper, the Meandher man has an eye for timeless pieces and isn’t too concerned with keeping up with the latest fashion trends. “He has a willful sense of independence, with the intent of making his subtle but cool mark,” she explains. “He’s the charisma of Frank Sinatra, the lad in Steve McQueen and the manliness of a lumberjack.” Cooper uses the skills she’s picked up at Milan’s Ars Sutoria footwear institute—as well as the streets full of welldressed Italian gentlemen—as inspiration for her collection, which retails for $180 to $250. For Meandher’s fall collection, Cooper is introducing the line’s first sneaker, dubbed the Maxamillion, that’s made of navy and black welted canvas with contrasting leather laces. She’ll also be playing with materials like nubuck, suede, sap leather and rubber-molded soles. And while the brand is ready for challenges that the U.S. market is sure to bring, Cooper has already come across several differences in the U.S., Australian and Japanese markets. “In Australia, we don’t really have trade shows as [America] knows them,” she remarks. “Our sales function is done in-house and focused on targeting those retailers and online stores that we believe are a good fit for the brand and vice versa.” However, Cooper says the size of the U.S. market requires “a completely different sales and distribution strategy,” and Meandher is opening an office in L.A. this August in order to bring a “much more hands-on approach” to its stateside operation. Beyond Fall ’12, Cooper has high hopes and big plans for the brand—one of which includes a women’s line. “I’ve had so many enquiries from girls that I couldn’t not make one,” she explains. “I’m particularly excited that I will finally be able to wear a pair, too.” Meandher also has plans to open a U.S. flagship store in 2013, hopes to break into the European market next year and a desire to expand into a full-scale men’s and women’s accessories brand. —Mary Avant

Royal Flush Donald J Pliner launches a lowerpriced line inspired by Prince. “SEXY WITHOUT TRYING too hard” is how Neal Salisbury describes DMSX. As the creative force behind the rock ‘n’ roll-inspired diffusion line from Donald J Pliner, he pushes the design envelope for fall with an impactful collection of designs that balances downtown attitude with sleek styling. “The contemporary market is underserved, lacking distinct and fashion-forward styles for the customer who aspires for luxe,” declares Salisbury, who previously served as chief design director at Camuto Group where he launched Jessica Simpson Footwear in 2008. Inspired by the Prince hit “Dance Music Sex Romance,” his call to arms includes heels, pumps, flats, booties and boots in burnished nappas, patents and calf hair, and features signature details like oversized buckles and chains and “Shanghai purple” soles. As with most diffusion lines, DMSX aims to appeal to a younger customer than the company’s other offerings (Donald J Pliner, Lisa for Donald J Pliner and Donald J Pliner Signature), and styles run the gamut from a pointy-toe pump in tigerprint calf hair to a chocolate leather platform bootie with gold hardware accents. Even a patent stiletto is given a modern edge with a wide ankle strap and chunky zipper. “She’s looking for a product that has a little more status but doesn’t want to spend $500 or $600 or more on a pair of boots,” Salisbury says of DMSX’s customer. Yes, as Prince himself might sing if he had designed the collection, you don’t have to be rich to wear these shoes. DMSX—which is Pliner’s first launch since private equity firm Castanea Partners acquired the company last year—will hit stores in August and retail for $110 to $160. A selection of men’s styles at similar price points will also be available. And for Spring ’13, Salisbury plans to maintain his minimalist design philosophy, with woven and laser-cut metallic leather uppers in the works. “Sobriety is the key word,” he says. —Lyndsay McGregor

50 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

FW_06_12_UpClose_street_03.indd 50

5/22/12 10:01 AM

continued from page 19 I saw a woman wearing a pair of Louboutins as she made her way to and from the podium. She absolutely ran to sit down and take off her shoes. I said to myself: That is exactly the problem we need to solve. Yet women salivate over those shoes, willing to spend whatever it takes for a few minutes of painful style. We believe shoes should be able to be worn all day—and comfortably. Any thoughts on how the economy may impact Rockport or the market as a whole in the coming months? Well, I’m not qualified to speculate on the future of the economy, but I do know that the customer has greater expectations than before and that is due to the difficult economy. They have become smarter and more informed, because they are more discernable than they have ever been. I think this favors good brands that deliver intrinsic value, and I believe Rockport falls into that category. We feel well positioned now that the age of over-consumption has gone away and consumers are more likely to buy quality over quantity. How has the economy impacted where consumers are shopping? Certainly, the statistics tells you that there are more people shopping online. But I do think that there are aspects of brick-and-mortar that are hard to duplicate online, like a tactile experience and a certain level of service. So I think there is still a huge opportunity in that tier. And I believe there will be a lot of magic for those retailers that can deliver both formats well. I don’t know what exactly is going to happen next, but I believe the next innovation in retail will come out of the independent base. And I think online will inspire some creative and new distribution in the next three to five years. A hybrid is the easiest one to imagine, but I don’t know just yet if that’s what it will be. A hybrid that can offer the event-like experience of a brick-and-mortar store with the convenience and immediacy of social media would seem promising. In whatever form it takes on, I think that the customer wants to be inspired. And, to your point, they want to feel emotionally connected on many levels. Maybe online will be a place that serves a person who seeks ease in their day. But that’s not for everybody. There’s just something exciting about going to a store and having an experience. I mean, you can go to a runway show in person or watch it on your iPad. Where would you rather be? I think we have to remind ourselves of that aspect.

Is the nation better off than it was four years ago? Are we, at least, heading in the right direction? I don’t think we are floundering as a country. There were some economic issues that were a little too far or fast and we had to become more pragmatic. I think it humbled us as a nation and got us to reexamine what the fundamentals are to driving an economy. Regardless, if we can inspire the customer he or she will come back to Rockport. And that’s what we need to focus on. What I can impact is their experience with our brand in providing solutions and having a great experience. If we achieve that, then I’m convinced they will be inspired to buy more shoes from us. The good thing for our industry in general is that when he or she is inspired, they still buy shoes. If someone says it’s not as good as it was four years ago, I don’t look at it that way. I see it as it’s just not coming easier. People are more demanding of us all. True. But overall there are more feet in America and consumers are not opting to go barefoot. So what’s there really to complain about? Correct. We need to compel them to buy our brand. I know we are headed in the right direction to grow back our men’s business and do it through better distribution. We are regaining our share through a new consumer, in addition to our old consumers. And I believe Rockport will also be at the forefront of that white space in women’s, where style and comfort don’t have to be mutually exclusive. We have a strategy in place through 2015 to realize more opportunity than we have seized in recent years. I feel pretty good about it. And we have some substance behind that; it’s not just a wish. While the fourth quarter last year was difficult for most everyone in the industry, we fared pretty well and, in the first quarter of this year, we experienced double-digit growth and expect that to continue for the rest of this year.

“Rockport will be at the forefront of that white space in women’s, where style and comfort don’t have to be mutually exclusive.”

Interacting through technology and not as much through human contact: It may be convenient, but is it better? A balance is better. Right now, it’s all about that chase— the consumer’s desire to be smarter. There’s a huge desire for everyone to want to be in the know. That’s why kids are texting all of the time—because they feel like they are connected and getting information. Tapping into that in some form is one of the things Rockport needs to do more. We need to examine it from a consumer behavior standpoint, because the popularity of it can’t be denied. Is there any presidential election year fallout to be expected? The only thing I can say that might be election-related is that, compared to four years ago, the consumer has changed. They have much greater expectations and we have to work every day to exceed them in order to move forward. Beyond that, guessing what impact the election may have on our business is kind of like speculating on the weather: You can work yourself into buying a tremendous amount of sandals or not buying any sandals and the weather will still do what it wants.

So life is good, so to speak, for Rockport? Yes. We have had an outstanding brand and we also have a lot of good retail partners that are rooting for us. But it’s about hard work and not just getting lucky. There are a lot of things that we have been and will continue to keep doing that will pay off. But none of this just happens overnight. You don’t just build one shoe and solve all of your problems. It has to be part of your brand’s DNA, culture and organization that must continually be worked on and refined. We have a great team working on all of those aspects and they are coming together to provide opportunity.

What, specifically, do you love about the footwear business? What isn’t there to love? On the women’s side, it changes continually so you always have to be on the hunt. You don’t know where it’s going to come from next, and it can come from all over the world. On the men’s side, it’s all about the details and doing it in creative, new ways. What do you love most about your job? The brand is No. 1, for sure. The opportunity and the people—internally and externally— and the passion they have for Rockport are close seconds. I have the privilege to work with a lot of great people. And I also love the new and innovative product; it’s inspiring and makes me love coming to work each day. Lastly, I love having been given the opportunity to add to Rockport’s legacy. We have a tremendous opportunity and we are on our way. The brand has been growing worldwide for the last four or five years and it’s just a matter of making it happen here, too. What a wonderful thing to be able to do. • 2012 june • footwearplusmagazine.com 51

FW_06_QA_02.indd 51

5/23/12 9:36 AM

LAST WORD

FIRST AID

Medicine Brand Dimmi goes above and beyond the average corporate giving to accomplish its ultimate goal: saving lives.

“The whole purpose is to give away what we make. It’s the best corporate practices blended with philanthropy... I call it sustainable giving.” —Peggy Meill, president, Dimmi

MOST BUSINESSES ARE sparked by a brilliant idea. Some get their start just by being in the right place at the right time. And others begin with a cause—in Dimmi’s case, a really great one. The young brand, backed by Consolidated Shoe Company’s Billy Carrington, is a story born out of tragedy: Carrington’s brother, Richard (who led Consolidated Shoe at the time), died at the age of 39 due to complications from a neurological disorder known as Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis (ALS), more commonly known as Lou Gehrig’s disease. “It impacted not only the family, but the company and its circle of friends as well,” says Peggy Meill, president of Dimmi. Searching for some way to turn this tragic loss into a story of triumph, Billy Carrington set out to make a difference and help others who were struggling with diseases. “He said, ‘I’m a shoe guy, I know how to do shoes. What can we do?’ ” Meill says. The answer: create a shoe brand whose net proceeds go directly to funding medical research, beginning with ALS. Meill says Dimmi—which gets its name from the Italian word meaning “tell me”— is just like any other footwear company: It makes shoes and sells them to retailers, who then sell them to customers and make money. The only difference between Dimmi and its fellow footwear brands is that it donates every bit of the money it brings in. “The whole purpose is to give away what we make. It’s the best corporate practices blended with philanthropy,” explains Meill, who previously served 10 years as president of the Two Ten Footwear Foundation, an organization that offers financial assistance, counseling, community resources and scholarships to individuals in the footwear industry. “It’s a model of corporate giving beyond just the 5 percent giving of [corporate social responsibility]. I call it sustainable giving.” Dimmi launched its first collection this

spring with a line that Meill calls “fresh and perky,” adding that the shoes are colorful and designed for both younger and older women who look for wellness, comfort and style. “They can be worn to the office, to run errands at the farmer’s market or to meet friends for coffee,” she notes. Made up of lattice ballet slippers, T-strap flats and perforated skimmers in materials like felt and leather, Dimmi’s collection retails for a suggested price of $70 to $90. The Fall ’12 offerings include a range of sweet slippers and oxford-like flats that come in deep shades of purple, charcoal gray and burgundy. Meill says that while the shoes themselves are cute and comfy, the major attraction is the idea behind them. “Everyone will know that the profits of Dimmi shoes will go to medical charities,” she explains. “So if you were a retailer, to have a logo block next to our shoes is lovely co-branding.” And for shoppers, “knowing that the money will go to good causes is the main selling point,” she maintains. Though Dimmi exhibits both a great concept and a quality product, Meill says the brand faces the same issues every new footwear company comes across: getting the name out to retailers and the public. She notes, however, that the collection’s reception so far has been outstanding. “What really thrills me are the comments about the product from the people [in the industry] who have worked with so many brands,” she remarks. “It’s been really heartwarming and so wonderful to have that kind of reception.” And while a men’s line is underway and the young brand may develop specific fundraising goals in the future, Meill says Dimmi needs to take it slowly. “I have so much in the way of hopes, dreams and visions for Dimmi,” she declares. “But I also know that we need to stay with one phase at a time. Right now, that phase is selling the first wave of shoes.” —Mary Avant

52 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2012

FW_06_Last_Word_01.indd 52

5/22/12 10:03 AM

FOP_COV3 COV3

5/22/12 9:56:31 AM

Change the way you do business with a simple touch of our screen!

The “Your Feet” app educates your customer about their feet in a fun, informative way.

Through the “Email” app, your customer can immediately receive their foot scan and share it with their friends and family.

Introducing iStep Version 8.0 ®

The only foot scanning software featuring revolutionary Cloud based technology. Interact with your customers, anywhere, anytime!

For more information visit www.aetrex.com

FP iSt b kCOV4 Ad i dd 1 FOP_COV4

5/22/124:30:05 12 30 PM PM 5/22/12