Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2012 • March

THE SOURCE FOR RETAILERS

MARCH 2012 đƫ$10.00

Easy Breezy

The Art of Comfort Chic THE PLUS AWARD WINNERS REVEALED ALEGRIA’S PURSUIT OF HAPPINESS

THE TRADE SHOW BUZZ TREND SPOTTING: SLIPPERS

fw_03_12_cover_01_revise.indd 1

2/22/12 3:11 PM

uggaustralia.com FOP_COV2 COV2

2/20/12 10:50:02 AM

SEE THE BØRN FALL 2012 COLLECTIONS AT FFANY | NEW YORK SHOWROOM | 1441 BROADWAY | 14TH FLOOR | NEW YORK, NY

FOP_1 1 Footwear+ March 2012.indd 1

2/20/12 3:20:39 PM 2/17/12 10:01:11 AM

JUNE 6-8, 2012 Wednesday–Friday Hilton New York Hotel & Member Showrooms

View exhibiting brands and plan your appointments at FFANY.ORG Save the Date: August 1-3, 2012 Wednesday–Friday

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 6 | Opening Night Industry Party Bryant Park Grill | 6:30 – 9:00 Tickets $80 | Buy 10 tickets, get 1 free 25 West 40th Street | Tickets and info: party@ffany.org Portion of ticket proceeds to benefit

FOP_2 2

2/21/12 8:43:09 AM

FOP_3 3

2/21/12 8:44:45 AM

M A R C H 201 2

14 Show Time!

The buzz out of Outdoor Retailer, FN Platform, ENKWSA, The Atlanta Shoe Market and FFANY.

18 Q&A: Alegria Luke Chen, COO of Alegria, discusses the brand’s pursuit of happiness formula and why it’s creating smiles all around. By Greg Dutter

24 Star Power The industry’s best and brightest turned out for the 13th annual Plus Awards in New York.

On the cover: Dansko Mary Janes. All clothing vintage by Linda Varady Berman; Urban Outfitters belt; hosiery by Falke.

28 Profiles in Excellence Spanning 24 distinguished categories in design and retail excellence, the 2011 Plus Award winners represent the industry’s best in innovation, performance and service.

This page, clockwise from top: Anyi Lu tortoiseshell pump; floral clog by Alegria; Spring Step two-tone oxford; wedge by Dr. Scholl’s Shoes; Ara short heel pump.

42 Samba Beat Shopping the hottest Fall ’12 trends coming out of Brazil’s Couromoda show. By Angela Velasquez

Photography by Glynis Selina Arban. Styling by Robyn Victoria.

Model: Whitney/Supreme Management.

44 Here Comes the Fuzz PA G E

46

Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor Audrey Goodson Mary Avant Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editors Michel Onofrio Style Director Laurie Guptill Production Manager Kathy Passero Editor at Large Tim Jones Senior Designer

ADMINISTRATION Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager

The season’s latest slipper styles arrayed in all their fuzzy, furry glory.

By Angela Velasquez

Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager

46 The American Dream

Theodore Hoffman Special Projects Director

Refined and reserved, fall comfort styles reflect a bygone era worth revisiting. By Angela Velasquez

OFFICES

6 Contributor’s Page 8 Editor’s Note 10 This Just In 12 Scene & Heard 56 Shoe Salon 58 What’s Selling 59 Trend Spotting 60 Street 62 Kids 64 Last Word

Mike Hoff Webmaster

Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl.

New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno CFO

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) Vol. 96 Issue 3. The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2012 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher.

Printed in USA.

FP_03_12_TOC_01_reviseAV.indd 4

2/22/12 10:02 AM

FOP_5 5

2/20/12 10:50:28 AM

contributors inside the creative mind

YOUR VOTE MEANS THE WORLD TO US

Thank you for voting us

Excellence in Men’s Design Comfort & Best in Customer Service

m

GLYNIS SELINA ARBAN, PHOTOGRAPHER A degree in medieval literature might explain the whimsical, romantic quality of Glynis Selina Arban’s work. Fashion insiders call her a master of posing with the knack of capturing a perfect, unscripted moment. A self-taught photographer, Arban also writes and paints.

Her grandmother, Millie Lewis, was a top model in New York in the ’40s and fostered Arban’s early love for fashion. She also served as inspiration for this month’s fashion story, “The American Dream.”

“I have amazing snapshots of my grandmother from the late ’50s and early ’60s—she was glamorous and always dressed beautifully, no matter the occasion or lack thereof,” Arban says. Arban’s work has appeared in Vogue Nippon, Vogue Girl, Lula, Nylon, Bust and Complex. Her clients include Element, Built by Wendy, L’Officiel, Sony, Warner Millie Lewis Brothers, Bose and Bloomingdale’s.

ROBYN VICTORIA, STYLIST Born and raised in New York, Robyn Victoria first tried her hand in the record industry and television production, but fashion is her true calling. With a styling aesthetic that’s a cocktail of glamour, sex appeal, edginess and fun, Victoria has styled numerous musicians, including Ke$ha, P!nk and Roger Daltrey.

Her work has also appeared in Rolling Stone, Trace, Nylon, Paper and Entertainment Weekly. When it came to styling this issue’s fashion story, she admits her thoughts of ’60s-themed retro fashion first involved mod beauties dancing as if they were in an Austin Powers movie. After some research, she discovered chicly clad women in jewel tones, prints and puffy circle skirts. “They were graceful and confident with a veiled sex appeal,” she says. “I wanted the story to reflect these women in a fun way.”

LYDIA O’CARROLL, HAIR STYLIST Lydia has worked in hairdressing for 16 years, having started her career in a small hair salon in Dublin, Ireland. She moved to New York eight years ago and has since worked for numerous magazines (including Italian Vogue and Cosmopolitan) in addition to her advertising work with Victoria’s Secret and celebrity clientele including Green Day, Julia Stiles and Diane Keaton. O’Carroll’s work has been described as diverse, artistic and original. For this issue’s retro-themed fashion story, inspiration came from such classic Hitchcock films at The Birds and Rear Window.

In addition, old Vanity Fair party books served as reference, specifically for hair texture of the early ’60s era.

FootwearPlus Thank You 3.75x9.75.indd 1 FW_03_contributors_01.indd 6

2/13/12 5:03 PM

2/22/12 1:30 PM

FOP_7 7

2/21/12 8:45:31 AM

editor’s note crayola theory 7

Primary Colors OUR COUNTRY’S PRIMARY colors are red, white and blue. Our

the face or red-faced in anger, depending on your state or side of the

two major political parties’ primary colors are red (Republicans) and

aisle. Let’s hope this spirit of working together won’t turn out to be

blue (Democrats) and, for too long, there’s been zero mixing of the

just a Madison Avenue smokescreen that politicians and employers

two. The primary colors of our industry, year in and year out, are

hide behind without really doing what it takes to get more Americans

black and brown. However, some primary colors for Fall ’12 look to

back to work.

be jewel tones, such as burgundy, saffron and emerald.

In the meantime, hope springs eternal that the stubborn gloom

The primary color of presidential hopeful Mitt Romney is—well,

that has blackened our economy brightens this year. More green

if milquetoast is a color, then I’d vote for that. The primary color

shoots of recovery are grabbing hold of late, and reports of pink

of Newt Gingrich is muddy. And before you leap to the conclusion

slips are becoming less frequent. It’s moving in the right direction

that I’m a true blue Liberal, the man’s record is anything but

because every extra disposable dollar ups the ante for increased sales

clean. In fact, if dark can be

in our industry. And we’ll take

considered an actual color, then

all the help we can get after a

I’d endorse that as the primary

largely brown winter nationwide

color of Gingrich. As for Rick

has made grabbing those dollars

Santorum, at first blush I see

difficult. Unfortunately, Mother

another millionaire sporting

Nature doesn’t always paint a

blue collar values beneath what

pretty picture, and there’s little

is undoubtedly a white one.

that can be done about that.

On the other side of the political

What is in our control is the

spectrum, some might say the

mosaic of styles that we can offer

primary color of President Barack

to consumers each season. Our

Obama is deep blue. Then again,

industry is capable of creating

many of his detractors would paint

a palette of products that can

him red for what they call Socialist policies or downright Communist

entice consumers to spend. One need only look at the success of

leanings. Blinded-by-blue Democrats most likely view Obama’s job

Alegria since its inception four years ago for proof. Luke Chen, COO

performance to date as rosy. But they are, of course, probably wearing

and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 18), says the comfort brand’s

glasses of the same hue.

“color therapy” premise (32 colors and patterns are offered in its

Interestingly, the new black appears to be a call from pundits

signature clog alone) has been a key factor behind its 25 percent

and prognosticators for our nation to come together and try to

annual sales gains. Alegria has become a nice little gold mine for its

resolve our ideological differences. The goal, basically, is to move

retail partners.

our economy out of the red and into the black. Perhaps no one made

Similarly, the 24 Plus Award winners for design and retail excellence

that pitch better than Clint Eastwood as part of an epic Super Bowl

profiled in this issue (p. 28) are a reflection of our industry’s true

halftime commercial on behalf of Chrysler. Dirty Harry delivered on

colors: innovation and imagination. And while such qualities may

what many politicians have failed to do for years: rallying Americans

make others green with envy or, worse, lead to them getting caught

around the good old red, white and blue.

red-handed for knockoffs, it’s with great pleasure that Footwear Plus—

The idea of teamwork to get America back on its feet sure was inspiring when packaged in this moving commercial. It also seems like common sense. At the very least, cooperation has to be more productive than screaming at each other until one’s either blue in

for 13 years running—acknowledges such colorful success stories. You might even say it’s one of our primary goals.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

8 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_EdNote_01.indd 8

2/20/12 10:07 AM

FOP_9 9

2/20/12 12:32:05 PM

THIS JUST IN

Chic Week Attendees at New York Fashion Week brought their A-game.

By Melodie Jeng

FW_03_This_Just_In_01.indd 10

2/20/12 4:08 PM

ara-shoes.net

An Eye on

Fashion

Shoe fashion that fits me. ara North America 路 12 W. 57th Street, suite 1001 路 New York, NY 10019 路 877.272.7463 FOP_11 11

2/22/12 10:45:16 AM

¡+¢ scene and heard Earth Walking On-Air

Sally Combs

HOME SHOPPING HAS been on a comfort kick as of late, and now lifestyle guru and QVC on-air talent Sally Combs has inked a deal to represent Earth Inc. when it launches on the channel in April. With Kalso Earth Shoe, Earth and Earthies making up the comfort company’s portfolio, President Gary Champion feels there’s a heightened importance to make sure the collections come across clearly and powerfully. And while promotions and events are a regular part of Earth’s overall marketing strategy, an on-air televised endorsement will help reinforce who the company is and what its brands stand for, he adds.

“With a seasoned spokesperson like Sally Combs joining our team, it ensures our wellness-based company messaging will come across in the right way. She has a proven track record in wellnessbased comfort footwear and a trusted and loyal following,” says Champion, alluding to Combs’ 14-plus years of footwear experience, nine of which were in direct-to-consumer sales—she once sold 34,000 pairs in a single one-hour appearance. He adds, “She really knows what it takes to stand out in this arena as someone who is living the values of our brands.” —Lyndsay McGregor

Good Seeds ETNIES IS EXPANDING its “Buy A Shoe, Plant a Tree” initiative by teaming up with leading nonprofit Trees for the Future in an effort to reverse Brazil’s deforestation. Through this onefor-one program, the skate shoe company will plant a tree in São Paulo’s Atlantic Rainforest for every purchase of its Jameson 2 and Jameson 2 Eco men’s and kids’ styles and girls’ Caprice Eco and Circe Eco shoes.

This is the latest step in Etnies’ bid to curb global warming: Last year, with help from La Reserva Forest Foundation, the brand planted more than 35,000 trees on the Maleku reserve in Costa Rica. The project also aims to educate local students and native groups on environmental issues while teaching them how to produce seedlings and transplant trees.

“It’s a way to demonstrate to young people that not only can they be environmentally conscious by addressing their own daily activities, but they can make an impact on the environment through a different kind of vote,” says the brand’s skateboarding owner and CEO Pierre-Andre Senizergues, adding: “They can vote with the dollars they spend everyday.”

Etnies will provide retail partners with informational cards, shoe clips and other POS items to help educate consumers about the program. As Senizergues puts it, “To do what we love to do, we need clean air to skate, clean water to surf and we need snow to snowboard. It’s natural that the passion I have for action sports would drive my passion to protect our planet—it’s our only playground.” —L.M.

Pierre-Andre Senizergues, CEO, Etnies

Winter Wonderland BLONDO RECENTLY HELD its first-ever runway show in its native Quebec, a perfect winter backdrop for the classic boot maker. Dubbed “Cocktails and Talon Hauts,” select buyers and media enjoyed a sneak peek at the brand’s Fall ’12 collection.

Known for its all-weather boots, the presentation showcased Blondo’s most fashion-forward styles. “For us, it was the best way to demonstrate Blondo’s true fashion turn and to socialize with our clients,” says Christian Bergeron, CEO of Regence Footwear, the brand’s Quebec City-based manufacturer and distributor. “We insist more and more on designs, trends and, as always, comfort.”

Bergeron says the new Blondo collection was influenced by worldwide fashion, adapted to suit the North American lifestyle and winter reality.

Key styles include biker and equestrian silhouettes with a pre-worn look, as well as Navajo-inspired boots with hand-sewn details and woven fabric trims. “Our consumer likes detailing, so we’re pretty confident they’ll like this,” predicts Michael Brasini, the brand’s senior line builder. And as always, the entire collection boasts Aqua Protect technology, which seals all seams and outsoles against water infiltration and the harmful effects of salt. —L.M.

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_S&H_01_revise.indd 12

2/22/12 10:18 AM

FOP_13 13

2/20/12 10:50:45 AM

SPECIAL REPORT

SHOW TIME! It’s all here: key fall trends, show vibes and industry buzz coming out of Outdoor Retailer, FN Platform, FFANY, ENKWSA and The Atlanta Shoe Market.

FN Platform Delivers the Goods A CROP OF new fashion, outdoor, comfort, men’s, women’s and children’s brands gathered under one roof of the Las Vegas Convention Center for FN Platform, confirming what many industry insiders have suggested since the show’s debut two years ago: FN Platform is the new best in shoe shows.

The show boasted a diverse roster of more than 1,500 brands, including Ecco, Camuto Group, Clarks, Merrell and Steve Madden and newcomers like Rachel Roy, Jorge Biscoff and Isaac Mizrahi. The mood was positively upbeat and optimistic, and with a 16 percent spike in first day retailer attendance, there was a sense of new relationships being forged, orders being made and business getting done.

“We did more in two days than we used to cover in four days at the WSA show,” reports Robert Goldberg, owner of New York-based Harry’s Shoes. Robert Schwartz, second time attendee and owner of New Yorkbased Eneslow Comfort Shoes, lauded the “well-run show” for serving the industry’s needs, a sentiment that was heard across the show floor.

“It’s a real shoe show,” says Leslie Gallin, vice president of FN Platform.

“Traffic was robust, people were elated and there’s a good feeling that the industry has united,” she adds. Bill Langrell, COO for Taos, reported every one of its four booth tables were going strong. “Appointments have pretty much all been kept and the reaction to our fall line has been excellent,” he says, noting Taos will expand its booth by 10 square feet and will have six tables for the August edition of the show.

For Palladium, which experienced about 40 percent more booked appointments than the previous show, FN Platform proved to be a prime place to meet major chains, key independents and retailers from Canada.

Vice President of Sales Dennis Walker reports the brand’s new line of

white-soled styles was especially popular. “The price point at $49.99 is attractive,” he notes, keying into the fact that retailers are still focusing on costs. Sales reps for Dav noticed a similar interest in its moto-inspired rain boot that retail for $55, and high-end designer Ryan Haber fully expected retailers to be price-cautious. “We’re not going to appeal to every buyer who attends this show, but we’re still getting attention,” he explains.

Gallin says the show’s new approach to wayfinding, by adding street names to rows, helped buyers navigate the show’s homogenous environment more easily. “The layout is more efficient and the open booths allow us to get an overview,” Goldberg agrees. In fact, that simple layout with straight aisles, booths of the same height and five welldefined categories is part of what many retailers enjoyed, cementing the simple aesthetic as a show signature. “It’s extremely well organized—if I want to shop western boots, it’s all conveniently placed in one section and I get it done efficiently,” notes Ed Habre, owner of The Shoe Mill in Portland, OR. “Everyone is here and there is less fanfare, which is a good thing. Give us a chair, a table and some paper to write on and we’re good.

Let us look at the shoes so we can get down to business,” he adds.

Still, a good shoe show needs hot shoes and FN Platform offered a plethora of trends to suit all tastes, including Fall ’12 must-haves like fringe, loafers, sweater prints and snakeskin. Gallin noticed weathered leathers and vintage details across the show floor, a look that Taos’ Langrell says retailers are still scooping up. “Our customers respond well to stones, jewels and hardware on shoes—something that makes them more feminine and takes them out of the realm of a basic outdoor lifestyle,” he describes.

Jewels and glitter sparkled across Titan Industries’ host of brands as well.

“Retailers want to give consumers something different this season because they already have a closet full of basics,” explains Brad Bailey, president

VivoBarefoot Earthies

Bijou

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_special_Report_02.indd 14

2/22/12 10:29 AM

of Titan Industries. Colorful printed fabrics and feminine ribbon laces winterized Elizabeth Brady’s flirty collection as well.

On the men’s front, color-rich lace-up boots in blue and oxblood piqued retailers’ interest at Ted Baker, along with distressed boots with tweed panels and boots with ultra-thick soles. Modern cap toes, wingtips and sleek monk straps were bestsellers for Hugo Boss, especially styles with easy-to-wear, flexible rubber bottoms. —Angela Velasquez

Rocking at Outdoor Retailer THE BUZZ COMING out of the Outdoor Retailer Winter Market in Salt Lake City, UT, was strong across all fronts. Record attendance of more than 21,000, as well as a record amount of exhibitor space (of which 258 were footwear brands, accounting for nearly a quarter of all exhibitors), proved that OR is no longer a niche shoe show for specialty dealers. In fact, OR’s growth mirrors the growing popularity of the outdoor lifestyle from both end-use and fashion perspectives. The show’s only blemish was the weather—a snowstorm in the Pacific Northwest prevented people in that region from getting to the show on time. And, ironically, the overall lack of snow nationwide this winter caused many retailers to pull back on their weather-related purchases for Fall ’12. Not to mention, the slowly recovering economy still had an impact.

“Cautious optimism seems to be the best word to use,” says Georgia Shaw, marketing manager for Vibram FiveFingers, in describing the general mood of buyers. “Everyone recognizes that the economy and mild weather conditions have affected sales, but most retailers are expecting a busy spring season to work through inventory.” In particular, Shaw says buyers seemed willing to try new items to keep their sales floor fresh and drive business.

Ian Jackson, vice president of sales for Cloven Footwear, concurs that many buyers were hungry for fresh styles, adding that traffic was solid throughout the show. “The buyers were really excited to see new products,” Jackson says. Specifically, he notes the brand’s Camp boot and Bostonian hybrid casual sneaker showed well.

First-time OR exhibitor Primigi USA experienced a similarly strong reception of its children’s shoe offerings. Bill LaRossa, president, says while OR is definitely not a “children’s shoe show,” the brand’s GoreTex collection fits right into the mix. “Our Made in Italy Gore-Tex boots were well received,” he affirms. “Buyers were impressed by how lightweight and easy-to-pack they are, which was a key selling point with this customer base.” LaRossa notes that the designs were also a fresh alternative to the traditional hiking silhouettes found at the show. “These are customers that we don’t see anywhere else and who could end up being a significant portion of our business,” LaRossa says, adding that the brand plans to exhibit again at the show.

Kenji Haroutunian, OR show director, attributes the increasing popularity with footwear brands and retailers to OR being fully merchandised. “Footwear is seen in the context of the outdoor lifestyle and the activities it is designed for,” he says. “Retailers are networking for intelligence from adjacent categories that they then apply to their business.” He adds, “Intelligence gathers, and is gathered, at OR.” Trend-wise, the runaway footwear theme was minimalist constructions. Vibram FiveFingers, VivoBarefoot, Rockport’s Tru Walk Zero collection, the New Balance Minimus line, Skechers’ Gorun debut and Merrell Barefoot were just some of the latest natural motion products on display. Category creator Vibram FiveFingers continued its push into year-round product offerings with the debut of its Lontra and Speed XC models. Both styles incorporate a water-resistant fabric and taped seams. “For years our consumers have been asking for a waterresistant model,” Shaw says. “We did extensive R&D on these styles to make sure that we could offer water resistance without sacrificing flexibility and ground feel.”

For VivoBarefoot, its Gobi desert boot received a strong reaction, according to Michelle Hinsvark, U.S. marketing manager. In women’s, popular colors included aubergine and purple in both performance and lifestyle collections. Hinsvark adds that after the success of the Ra, a men’s dress casual shoe that debuted last season, retailers were excited to see the full range of casual products. The trend mirrors the natural motion category’s expansion into an everyday lifestyle option. “We believe the category will continue to grow and change the shape of the footwear industry,” Hinsvark maintains.

Another popular trend at OR was the barrage of slippers, spanning from classic indoor styles to campsite-friendly after-sport designs. Bearpaw, Cloud Nine, Staheekhum, Acorn, Haflinger, Baabaazuzu and Giesswein were some of the brands offering slippers. Scott Prentice, executive vice president and director of Haflinger USA, reports buyer traffic was great all the way through Sunday at noon. “Our slippers, clogs and after-sport shoes have been selling well at retail and buyers came to see our latest updates,” he says. Additional Haflinger standouts, Prentice adds, were wool clogs with whimsical designs and new colors in its best-selling styles. “The more intricate the design and more colorful, the better they sold,” he says.

Despite the mild winter, Bogs President Bill Combs says the brand is weathering the lack of weather with its three-season product positioning.

It doesn’t have to snow; it just has to be muddy and wet, he says. As such, Bogs’ new women’s Plimsoll collection, the next generation of its Classic printed boots, was well received thanks to a sleeker look (built on a slimmer last), new handle treatment and modern prints and colors.

“Our new Baby Bogs (for infants and toddlers in sizes 5 to 10) also received a positive response, but the biggest surprise was the interest in our basic black farm and agricultural utility boots, which is what we’re really known for,” Combs says. —Greg Dutter

Bogs Palladium

Taos

2012 march • footwearplusmagazine.com 15

FW_03_special_Report_02.indd 15

2/22/12 10:29 AM

SPECIAL REPORT The Atlanta Shoe Market: Bigger, Better IT WAS BUSINESS as usual this February at The Atlanta Shoe Market— meaning more brands and more buyers, as the show continues its steady growth and becomes a go-to show for retailers from the Southeast and beyond. This go-round, exhibitors were even taking over the food court in an area aptly named “The Shoe Court,” and brands like Frye set up shop in the surrounding retail space, creating a fair approximation of its New York showroom. “I had the vision of using the mall stores, and that worked beautifully,” reports Laura Conwell-O’Brien, show manager and executive director of show sponsor Southeastern Shoe Travelers Association. “We’re trying all kinds of ways to update the show.”

And the effort is paying off: The show boasted a 5 percent bump in exhibiting brands according to pre-registration numbers, as well as an impressive 29 percent increase in retailer attendance. Both set records for the show and continue on TASM’s solid growth curve spanning back nearly a decade. In fact, there was a waiting list of approximately 60 brands who couldn’t find space in the Cobb Galleria Centre. “The show was tremendous for Rieker & Remonte Dorndorf,” says Rich Rask, vice president of Rieker Shoe Corporation. “Traffic in our booth was solid and consistent,” he adds. Blake Vaigneur, owner of South Carolina-based fashion brand Rowen, agrees that TASM is a prime spot for business.

Noting that FFANY is good for getting lots of foot traffic and Sole Commerce helps Rowen pick up international accounts, Vaigneur says.

“We have a lot of Southern accounts we see, and we also pick up a lot of new accounts at TASM.” Yet while the show floors were buzzing with business, many buyers—still scarred by years of recession—seemed hesitant to state that 2012 will be a big year for business. “We’re hoping it’s going to be better,” offers Wendy Burgette, owner of Monkees, an apparel and footwear store in Blowing Rock, NC. “We’re excited for spring, because there’s a lot of color,” she adds. “I think it will give people a reason to buy something besides black and brown.” Vaigneur at Rowen seconds the support for brighter hues: “Some of our basics is where we’ve done color, and it’s done really well,” he says, pointing to the brand’s suede wedge pump in shades of tangerine and fuchsia. For fall, Burgette at Monkees predicts fresh shades like burgundy and gray will tempt shoppers to splurge.

However, even neutrals may keep customers coming back for more, as brands tempted buyers with fresh updates like material-mixing that meshes everything from canvas, suede and patent leather with

embellishments like haircalf and fur. Tanise Hill, senior designer at Restricted, says the brand’s styles featuring color-blocking in neutral hues have been a big hit with retailers.

All in all, Conwell-O’Brien notes, it added up to a tempting assortment for retailers finally looking to take some risks. “The mood for the retail community is the economy is getting better, so they are opening up their purse strings to buy a little more, which of course makes the exhibitors happy, too.” And the show’s timing and setting are also giving attendees reason to smile. “We’ve stayed focused on the things that make this show so productive for everyone: convenient, affordable, accommodating,” Conwell-O’Brien notes. “It’s what the industry wants and it continues to work. There’s no doubt: This was our best show yet.” —Audrey Goodson

FFANY Sings That’s Amore FFANY’S FEBRUARY SHOW offered retailers lots of new options— especially of the Italian variety. Thanks to the Italian Trade Commission and the National Association of Italian Municipalities (ANCI), 24 vendors from Italy showcased their collections at the Hilton Hotel in New York. Not to mention, 48 first-time brands launched their collections at the show.

“Traffic was definitely up, with great help from ANCI and the Italian trade commission,” reports Kevin Powers, head of U.S. sales for Italian brand Gidigio. Phyllis Rein, senior vice president at FFANY, seconds that assessment: “There was a buzz from the moment the doors opened,” she reports. “Traffic was flowing steadily throughout the three days of the show, with the first day being the strongest.”

Steve Sedlbauer, president of Cougar, agrees. “Generally, the traffic was slightly better than previous shows,” he notes. “However, for Cougar, the quality of the traffic was much better. Retailers were responding favorably based on this past fall’s performance,” he adds, pointing to the brand’s popular Pillow boot and fashion wedge boots as big sellers. Sedlbauer notes, however, that retailers were “very cautious in the cold weather category” thanks to this winter’s unseasonably warm weather. “They are hoping to sell additional product in the coming weeks to open up budget for more fresh product for next fall,” he adds.

Despite the lack of cooperation from Mother Nature, Rein describes retailers as “cautiously optimistic” when it comes to loosening the purse strings for 2012. “Retailers seemed open minded as vendors introduced new styles, colors and textures for the new season,” she adds. From

Oliberte

Vibram FiveFingers

Alegria

Vogue

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_special_Report_02.indd 16

2/22/12 10:29 AM

Western-inspired updates on boots to Mad Men-inspired ’60s-era details, eye-catching embellishments seemed to be the way to capture the dollar of cautious shoppers. And this year, vendors were able to give those styles lots of room, thanks to FFANY’s new bed removal option, which “created a more conducive selling atmosphere for manufactures and retailers,” Rein adds, noting that 50 percent of brands took advantage of the new perk.

“Numerous vendors were extremely happy as they were selling and moving their pre-packstock for immediately delivery,” she notes.

Yet even with all of the positive buzz, there were still grumbles from retailers concerned about brands offering their wares online, Powers notes. “The biggest conversation was about how retailers are competing with their wholesalers on company websites that sell to the retail customer, with frustration and margin squeeze as the verdict,” he notes.

“The customer felt that the wholesaler should partner, rather than compete, with them.” —A.G.

ENKWSA is the Source EVERYBODY IS TALKING about it. Plenty more are complaining about it. And there are those who have thrown up their hands in disgust about the rising costs related to sourcing footwear out of China. While one strategy has been to go deeper and further into China’s mainland (which comes with its logistical challenges and freight increases), others are looking to new countries and factory partners to address their sourcing needs. Either way, the industry buzzword of late is sourcing.

Fittingly, the new format of the ENKWSA show, held last month in the Sands Expo and Convention Center, was all about sourcing. The trade show featured seminars designed to address sourcing issues and offer strategic solutions, and exhibitors consisted of foreign suppliers focused on fast fashion, first-cost footwear and other elements of the supply chain, including components and materials. David Kahan, president of the ENK Footwear Group, likened the exhibitor base to “the United Nations of Footwear,” as 35 countries were in attendance. “Attendees included buyers as well as design, development and sourcing staff from many leading branded suppliers,” he says. “The show was ideal for large chain buyers that do firstcost business and retailers that do fast, affordable fashion.” Kahan adds, “Even smaller retailers shopped plenty of suppliers offering small minimums and open stock options to meet their needs.”

Kahan says the new ENKWSA format is unique compared to other trade

shows. “For retailers that do first-cost and affordable fashion business, this format is critical to their success,” he says. “And for design/development and supply chain executives, it gives them the ability to shop factories, plus materials suppliers from around the globe, without the need for overseas travel.” Adding to the ease of shopping, Kahan says, was the 150,000 square feet of exhibitor space being situated on one floor and the booths in an open format, which enabled buyers to get an accurate read on trends. “Our intention is to create a simple market where business can be done easily,” Kahan adds. “We facilitated simple registration and entry procedures and, with so many different global attendees, our (May I Ask) booths were staffed with multi-lingual employees.” If that wasn’t enough, Kahan says ENKWSA also facilitated numerous matchmaking visits between attendees and suppliers.

Based on the reaction of show-goers, it appears ENKWSA delivered on its show premise. “This show covered a very important and profitable segment of our business. Having this focus was very important to us,” says Joseph Joseph, CEO of the New York-based V.I.M. chain. Mike Pare of Team Honu, a sandal supplier, agrees: “The number of resources and styles I saw at the show will help my business. In addition, I met new suppliers with better minimums and terms.” Adds Mike Batlin, executive director of Men’s Wearhouse, “This was a golden opportunity to find a couple of new factories.”

Kahan says the majority of those factories exhibiting at ENKWSA were still headquartered in China. But other countries strongly represented at the show included Taiwan, Pakistan, Mexico and Vietnam. And he anticipates that list will only expand to other regions of the world at future ENKWSA shows. “Our attendees are open to new, emerging sourcing partners and we expect to have factory bases in Africa and India,” he says.

Expect the upcoming ENKWSA show (Aug. 7-9) to be taken to the next level, including more exhibitors, as well as higher-end leather and other materials suppliers, according to Kahan. “We will surely be sold out,” he predicts. In the meantime, Kahan says ENKWSA will bring a virtual trade show to its customers. Select exhibitors will soon be able to post short videos on ENKWSA’s website to showcase their capabilities, including categories, timelines, compliance and minimums. “It can help attendees pre-plan appointments based on factory capabilities,” he says.

Lastly, Kahan says attendees can definitely count on another welcome party. This past show’s opening night “Dragon”-themed party offered plenty of food and drinks and, Kahan reports, was a great success. “We had 1,000 people attend. It provided a great opportunity to relax after a hard day working the show,” he says. —G.D.

Dav

Cloven J Shoes

Elizabeth Brady

2012 march • footwearplusmagazine.com 17

FW_03_special_Report_02.indd 17

2/22/12 10:29 AM

HAPPY DAYS

Luke Chen, COO of Alegria, discusses how the comfort brand’s happy premise is delivering smiles and sales to its expanding base of retailers and creating millions of loyal, elated consumers along the way. By Greg Dutter

ALEGRIA’S DEBUT CLOG sold more than 1 million pairs within its first three years and shows little sign of slowing down, as the style is refreshed seasonally with an array of colors and innovative materials that brighten store shelves, as well as the faces of its dedicated consumers. COO Luke Chen calculates that the success actually equates to millions more smiles— from consumers who find enjoyment in the brand’s unique “color therapy” design, to those who bask in its patented comfort footbed construction, to the countless passers-by who get a kick at seeing such a bright, whimsical fashion statement. And let’s not forget the growing number of smiles being generated inside the brand’s Pomona, CA, headquarters, as well as

by Alegria’s expanding roster of retailers who are all benefiting financially from the company’s approximately 25 percent annual sales gains the past four years. Add up all of those smiles and the brand name is truly apropos— “alegria” means “happy” in Spanish.

What’s Alegria’s secret to generating happiness for pretty much everyone who comes in contact with the brand? Chen says there are no secret formulas or matrixes being used. It’s far more simplistic than that—as successful concepts often are. Alegria’s pursuit of happiness involves both mental and physical aspects. “We ask our customers, ‘What does happy look like?’

Our fun patterns and colors—what we call color therapy—makes them feel happy,” Chen explains. “And when they put on a pair of our shoes, it makes them feel happy.” He says the physical comfort is mainly the result of the brand’s interlocking removable footbed that is made of a combination of memory foam, laytex and cork. “It’s extremely supportive and also features grooves on each end so that it secures firmly into the shoe,” Chen notes. In addition, the mild rocker outsole design offers wellness benefits associated with the construction (like improved posture and an easier gait), but without the severity.

The decision to stick with a mild rocker outsole, in particular, has been fortuitous for the brand, according to Chen. At launch time, rocker soles were all the rage—and the higher the better. That severity was often tied to touted wellness and weight loss attributes by brands that adopted the extreme outsole. With sales skyrocketing in the hot new category, it was hard not to enter the fray. But as history quickly proved—as with many a fad diet—the promised benefits were more of the snake oil variety and, subsequently, sales have tanked. Chen credits his executive team with the foresight and willpower to avoid that road. The company refrained from making wild promises and kept its designs more aesthetically pleasing. “I 18

FW_03_QA_02.indd 18

2/22/12 10:32 AM

The

Go-Everywhere

COMFORT SHOE

ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY FOOTWEAR

Imagine what it would feel like to

DEF Y

GRAVIT Y

We Drive Customers to Your Stores And, With Gravity Defyer, They Keep Coming Back for MORE! Multi-Million Dollar Advertising Budget We Appear in Hundreds of Magazines, TV and Drive Internet Traffic Through Extensive Online Marketing

Gravity Defyer is a revolutionary new kind of footwear, scientifically engineered to defy the effects of gravity. They eliminate discomfort caused by standing, walking and running on hard surfaces.

–And, unlike antifatigue mats or other aids, they go everywhere

VersoShock™

Reverse Trampoline Sole

you do! Over 1,000,000 satisfied customers world-wide!

“Gravity Defyer has added new business to our model. I heartily recommend it to all my friends in the business to carry Gravity Defyer shoes. Looking forward to a strong, Defying year.”

Danny Wasserman, CEO Tip Top Shoes

“Your brand is becoming one of the topselling shoes in our retail stores. Thank you for a great year of 2011.”

– Elie Monarch, CEO Footwear Etc.

The FASTEST GROWING Footwear Company in America www.gravitydefyer.com /B2B-Opportunities

FOP_19 19

contact: Kace Ejercito, kace@gdefy.com (818) 501-3669 ext#206

2/20/12 10:50:58 AM

O&A think our profile looks more like a normal shoe, which has turned out to be very advantageous for us,” he confirms.

Beyond those factors, Chen says the team just knew they were on to something when the prototype clog (since dubbed the “Classic”) first hit the table in their offices. Chen’s father John, a footwear veteran, came back from one of his Chinese factory trips with a design he had been working on for about two years. “The first thing that struck us was all of the colors— everybody just felt cheerful and happy in the room,” he recalls. “And then the rocker outsole and the unique footbed, which is where all of our magic lies, just made everyone smile more.”

Specifically, Chen credits his father and longtime industry veteran Nate Lebman, president of Alegria, for sensing that this was going to be a big shoe.

In fact, as Alegria lore goes, when the debut clog’s 22 initial colors were arrayed on the table, his father turned to his son and said, “We are going to sell a million pairs of these shoes.” Chen confesses that while he, too, thought the shoe had potential, he didn’t believe his father. Well, as the saying goes, father knows best, and it was proven so last year. “While I have seen my fair number of shoes, my dad and Nate are old shoe dogs who have really seen their share,” Chen says. “They just said this shoe was something unique, and the response has been pretty amazing.”

At last count, there’s a whopping 32 colors and material options available in the brand’s Classic clog for Fall ’12. The line has also expanded to 15 styles in all, including its first boot styles and a few heel silhouettes launching this fall, as well as select men’s styles. Designing and marketing comfortable shoes as if they were ice cream flavors, Chen says, has simply been a dynamic, enjoyable and profitable strategy. And while Chen credits his father with the product vision, his father is the first to credit his son for taking Alegria beyond an item and turning it into a brand, thanks largely to his innovative happiness-themed marketing platform.

What makes Alegria’s run even more impressive is it has occurred amid a debilitating recession, where new brands are often stuck at the start line and many established brands have struggled mightily. “The product, obviously, sets

us apart,” Chen believes. “We have stuck to our message, which is a little different than those of traditional comfort and wellness brands. We also have a great sales team that works very close with our retailers—one that is really strong and unique.”

Not bad insight for a computer network administrator by education who had no intentions of joining the family business after earning his MBA. In fact, Chen first went into business

OFF THE CUFF What are you reading?

Steve Jobs’ biography. It’s interesting to learn what a visionary he was, but also how difficult he was to work with.

What is your favorite movie? Groundhog Day. I have enjoyed pretty much everything Bill Murray has done.

What one word best describes you? Mellow.

What is inspiring you right now? Definitely [New York Knicks sensation] Jeremy Lin. Also, the way people are taking advantage of social media platforms to express themselves creatively.

What is your motto?

Morpheus said it in The Matrix and I’m also para-

phrasing what Tony Hsieh of Zappos says: “There’s a difference between knowing the path and walking the path.”

What is one of your notable childhood memories? I moved to California when I was 11 years old and when I arrived at customs, I had to fill out some forms. I spelled my name wrong because I didn’t know a word of English.

Well, there’s nothing like being thrown into the fire. My parents did a great job trying to make me and my siblings feel comfortable, but they didn’t want us to be too protected. It forced us to learn a lot of things on our own. In hindsight, it was a good call.

with friends on an ecommerce venture selling automotive parts. But his computer skills were always in demand at Alegria’s parent company, PG Lite. “Whenever they had computer issues, they would come to me to try and solve them,” Chen says with a laugh. As time went by, he grew more interested in joining the company full time. “As I learned more about all of the intricacies of running my own business and witnessed the experiences that my dad had in running his,

I suggested to my parents that I could be an asset to the company,” he says. And, you might say, the Chen family has since been living happily ever after.

Are you happy?

Yes. Why, specifically?

For many reasons. I love our product, I think we have a tremendous team of employees and I enjoy working alongside my family. My father founded the company, my mother is vice president and my wife is our controller. I believe everybody here truly cares about our company, which I think is very important. We all eat, sleep and drink Alegria. That’s coming from the bottom of my heart; we truly are all working toward the same goals. It’s a true American family business.

Surely the success of the company makes you happy as well?

Absolutely. It’s still a relatively new brand, so our growth has been exponential. The only challenge that we really have had was in the beginning with supply chain issues—we didn’t make enough shoes. It’s not a bad problem to have, but we needed to get our supply chain up to task, which we have since been able to achieve.

What’s the outlook for sales in 2012?

We believe we have introduced two great lines this year for Alegria. There are a lot of new flavors in our core styles and we are also introducing several new outsole constructions. For example, our new boots feature a low heel, which have received a tremendous reaction during the recent round of shows. We are trying to expand our product line beyond the mild rocker sole construction, but the footbed will be the same throughout the collection—that’s the heart of our shoes. Overall, the brand is forecast to grow at a high rate. We don’t believe we have hit any plateau yet. We expect to continue to grow similar to the same pace as the last four years.

Where is that growth coming from at retail?

We sell to leading comfort independents nationwide, as well as department stores like Belk and nationally via online dealers such as Zappos and

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_QA_02.indd 20

2/21/12 12:34 PM

OUR STYLISH 2012 COLLECTION AWAITS.

Come see our new collection for yourself. To find out more call 1 888 COUGAR-1 or visit us at cougarboots.com Like us on Facebook: facebook.com/cougarboots. Follow us on Twitter: @CougarBoots

FOP_21 21

2/20/12 10:51:05 AM

Online Shoes. We have also discovered a healthy sales niche within the occupational market—nurses, in particular, love wearing Alegria. It’s been pretty much a new retail distribution channel for us and it has been an important avenue of growth.

If you had to issue an APB on the Alegria consumer, how would you describe her?

Our research shows that we have a pretty broad range of customers. From the fashion perspective, our colors and materials reach an audience ranging from about 25 to 65 years old. But if I had to pick someone out specifically, a nurse would be a really good description of our typical customer. She works 12-hour shifts and is often on her feet all day, so she seeks something that is extremely comfortable. She also has to wear a uniform, so her shoes are the only aspect of her outift that can express her personality.

Would you describe Alegria as a wellness brand?

We call it a hybrid comfort-wellness brand. Our parent company, PG Lite, owns a long-term comfort background with respect to footwear design and manufacturing. My dad has been in that segment of the business since his first job decades ago. So everything about Alegria has comfort in its DNA, for sure. And while we incorporated wellness attributes in our design, we didn’t go off the deep end in that regard. Overall, I’d say we are a comfort company and our unique footbed plays a major role in that process.

Was it ever tempting to position the brand as a wellness one when sales of the category were going through the roof?

We thought about it, but it’s just not who we are. It’s hard to create some-

FW_03_QA_02.indd 22

thing that you are not. And while I would love to take the credit for making that decision, there really wasn’t one person that did. Collectively, we just didn’t want to go down that road. Back then, with all these claims flying around that we didn’t know how to prove if they were even true, we decided it was just better to stick to what we know, which is making comfortable footwear. It turned out to be the right call.

What’s your take on the wellness category going forward?

Well, it has backfired to some degree. But, overall, I think it’s good when brands create innovative designs. Otherwise, you can look at shoes being very basic: They’re just shoes, right? But to create different categories and offer innovative designs puts excitement into our industry overall.

While we’re at it, what’s your take on the minimalist movement? It comes with a lot of claims, too.

Coming from a comfort background, we believe shoes should absorb stress when you walk. The minimalist philosophy is basically saying that is not true. Whether or not that is correct, I think it’s going to follow the same path as the shaping and toning category’s claims. But, like I mentioned, I give credit to these companies that are trying to create innovation and make our industry exciting.

Would you say Alegria’s growth has come most at the expense of other brands, or is it more organic?

When we started, we believed this was a new category. Since then, several other brands have taken notice and begun to mimic what we do. That happens. For example, we exhibited recently at a uniform show and there

2/21/12 12:34 PM

were a lot of companies copying what we are doing. On the one hand, it’s flattering because we are still a relatively small player in the industry, but at the same time it serves as a caution for us not to get too complacent.

At the very least, being knocked off has to make you unhappy.

Well, they say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but we are not thrilled about it. We just have to work that much harder with respect to introducing new colors, materials, patterns and styles. We have to be at the frontier. Having said that, we know the colors and the patterns are always going to change. One year, for example, blue is going to be hot, but that may not be the case the next year. That’s why our success, over the long term, ultimately comes down to our shoes being comfortable and a good fit.

That’s where our footbed has been the difference maker. And those comfort aspects are never going to change. Everyone wants a comfortable pair of shoes, right? So if we stick to that product expectation and showcase new flavors of fashion each season—just continue to be who we have been—we believe that’s the successful way to go.

Who makes the color and material selections each season?

Our designer, Megan Gold, is great at pinpointing all of these colors and materials. She’s an extremely optimistic person (laughs). She always brings in way too many tempting colors and patterns to choose from during our develepment phases. We have to work really hard at trying to weed a bunch of them out. It’s not easy. For this fall, we decided to go with 13 colors for our Classic clog, but she presented more than 45 options. And she likes them all. Unfortunately, we don’t have a warehouse big enough to stock all of those colors.

It’s hard to get most to buy beyond black and brown with regard to any style, so what do you think has made retailers receptive to your “color therapy” approach?

Well, it was really difficult in the beginning to get retailers to buy into those original 22 colors for our clogs. It was out there, especially for an unknown brand. However, the retail success stories steadily passed on from store to store. Also, whenever we landed a new account, we would let them know which colors have worked in their channel. And because of our continued success, retailers trust us more to place additional colors. While black is still the most popular color, we are also introducing different interpretations with stitching details and materials that are catching on. Our dealers are really changing their assortments—they no longer want to carry just a pair of solid black clogs. For example, we have a black embossed rose print version that gives the style an added touch of sophistication that has done very well of late. Increasingly, our retailers want to go with different textures.

Are there popular colors in certain regions of the country?

Last season we introduced a floral inlay print that was huge in the South, but not so much in California. So there are regional tastes. Of course, Manhattan prefers black. Here, in Southern California, I think it’s a mixture. It‘s not really wild, but they are a little more open to different colors. I would say our customers in the Southeast—in Atlanta and Charlotte—like really bold colors. We also have a very big distribution in that region, which probably helps with the broader assortment of popular colors.

Beyond the comfort and the colors, what are some other factors >61

ACORN - 028 // Footwear Plus: March // Annika // 1/2 Page Horz with Bleed: Trim area 7.75 x 5 Bleed area: 8.25 x 5.5 Live area: 1/4 in on all sides // cmyk FW_03_QA_02.indd 23

2/21/12 12:34 PM

PLUS AWARDS 2011

Star Power The best and the brightest in the industry were honored at the 13th Annual Plus Awards cermony, held at the New York Hilton and co-sponsored by FFANY. Photography by Melodie Jeng Men’s Dress

Running

Men’s Comfort

Women’s Comfort, Corporate Goodwill

Online Retailing

Designer Boutique

Phil Russo VP of Design Cole Haan

Kyle Strek Senior Designer New Balance

Frank Annuziata VP of Sales Clarks

Amanda Cabot CEO Dansko

Steve Hill VP of Merchandising Zappos

(Right) Tracy Margolies VP DMM, Women’s Shoes Saks Fifth Avenue

Brand of the Year, Boots

Men’s Street, Work

Outdoor

Company of the Year

Women’s Dress

Customer Experience

Ed Goins VP of Sales Ugg Australia

Christina Vernon, Global Product Line Manager, and John Estes, VP of sales, Wolverine Worldwide

Michael Bohnsack Director of Retail Merrell

Jim Zwiers Senior VP Merrell

Joe Ouaknine CEO Titan Industries

Robert Goldberg COO Harry’s Shoes

Launch of the Year

Wellness

Customer Service

Athletic Lifestyle

Children’s

Pre-walkers

Women’s Street

Gary Champion President Earth Brands

Tom Terry President N.A. FitFlop

Elizabeth Parker Customer Service Director Clarks

Carey Bruton Managing Director Adidas

Shannon Myers Kids’ Product Director Crocs

Olivia Billingsley Senior Designer Pediped

Scott Sessa President Minnetonka

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_plus_awards_photo_ops.GDindd 24

2/22/12 1:28 PM

FOP_25 25

2/20/12 10:51:10 AM

PLUS AWA R D S 2011

Work Hard, Party Harder Following a busy FFANY show day, footwear industry luminaries gathered at the New York Hilton’s Bridges Bar to sip cocktails, mingle and congratulate Plus Award winners, recognizing excellence in design and retailing in 24 distringuished categories.

Jennifer Craig, Associate Publisher, and Caroline Diaco, Publisher of Footwear Plus

FW_03_12_plus_awards_photo_ops.GDindd 26

2/21/12 8:59 AM

THANK YOU

TO OUR RETAILERS AND INDUSTRY FRIENDS. IT’S AN HONOR TO BE RECOGNIZED WITH THE 2011 PLUS AWARDS.

2011 COMPANY OF THE YEAR

2011 Plus Award for Design Excellence

2011 Plus Award for Design Excellence

2011 Plus Award for Design Excellence

OUTDOOR CATEGORY

MEN’S STREET CATEGORY

WORK CATEGORY

FOP_27 27

2/20/12 12:23:23 PM

P L U S AWA R D S 2 0 1 1 PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

Innovative design and a commitment to superior service are synonymous qualities of this year’s Plus Award winners for excellence in design and retail.

WINNERS COMPANY OF THE YEAR

BLAKE KRUEGER, THE charismatic CEO behind Wolverine Worldwide, doesn’t mince words when it comes to why retailers bestowed the company with the Plus Award’s top honor: “I would like to tell you that it’s my engaging personality, but first and foremost, our product performed in their stores,” he says with a laugh.

And perform it did: Wolverine Worldwide reported record revenue for 2011, up 12.9 percent to $1.4 billion. “If you look at it in terms of categories, all of our brands grew in 2011, internationally and in the U.S.,” Krueger says. It was a banner year for every brand in the comBlake Krueger pany’s portfolio, which includes Bates, Chaco, Cushe, Hush Puppies, Hytest, Merrell, Sebago, Soft Style and Wolverine, as well as the CAT, Harley-Davidson and Patagonia licenses.

“Coming out of this terrible recession, there’s been a strong preference for heritage brands—ones that stand for something and have stood the test of time,” Krueger says. Shoppers were especially impressed with the company’s “boots, boots, boots,” he notes, particularly in the work arena, with Wolverine clocking in at No. 1 in U.S. sales and Caterpillar at No. 4. The brand’s fashion boots made a splash as well, especially the 1000 Mile collection, which tripled in sales in 2011.

The company’s other heritage brands also scored big at retail, especially Sebago, which made waves when Kate Middleton wore the classic boat shoes on her Canadian tour. Krueger notes that Sebago’s artisan collection, a collaboration with fashion bloggers, was key to getting it placed at Neiman Marcus and other upscale retailers, while a collaboration with outdoor retailer Filson struck the right note between rugged and stylish. Merrell, however, made for the company’s biggest boost in 2011, thanks to its Barefoot collection, which sold more than a million pairs. “Aesthetically it looks great, but it’s a true performance product,” Krueger says.

While the company’s diverse array of products are key to its success, Krueger notes its retailers are just as important: “We’re a relationship company. We’ve been around since 1882, so we really value our retail partners,” he says. “We deliver on time, we try to bring some freshness to their stores and we listen to their feedback.” Krueger credits his talented team—“the best people in the industry”— noting that CEO Magazine named Wolverine Worldwide one of the top 40 companies in the world for leadership development. “Hire and promote somebody better than you,” Krueger suggests. “If you can do that consistently, you’re going to be a whopping success.” —Audrey Goodson

WOLVERINE WORLDWIDE

ONLINE SHOE-AND-clothing behemoth Zappos knows a thing or two about making people happy. So much so that CEO and co-founder Tony Hsieh could—and did—write a book on the subject. In Delivering Happiness, he upholds that customer service is paramount in today’s hypercompetitive world. And seeing as how the company went from a struggling start-up in 1999 to getting acquired by Amazon in a deal valued at $1.2 billion a decade later, he’s probably right.

“Our reps are empowered to do whatever it takes to make our customers happy,” reveals Steve Hill, vice president of marketing.

True to form, Zappos has a 100-percent-satisfaction-guaranteed return policy. “This allows our customers to purchase with confidence knowing they can try them on in the comfort of their living room and return anything that doesn’t work, no questions asked,” says Hill, adding that the retailer upgrades all VIP and clothing orders to free overnight shipping. “We always look to do everything we can to continually improve our customers’ experience.

All decisions on the site, policies, brands or anything are filtered against, ‘Is this the best decision for our customers?’” he says. In fact, because the majority of its business comes from referrals, Zappos prefers to spend money improving on what makes its existing customer base happy instead of on marketing.

Something else Zappos believes in wholeheartedly is complete transparency with its brand partners. As Leslie Brown-Witt, vice president of sales for Earth Inc., puts it: “Zappos sets the bar for excellence in selection, service and creativity. It is an exciting and aggressive team that does not want to miss any opportunity to make its site and reputation with consumers Steve Hill the best in the industry.” And Dansko’s Vice President of Sales David Murphy agrees: “They represent the entire range of our products and are quick to adopt and offer new collections. Zappos, like Dansko, believes that the goal is to satisfy every customer, every day, no matter what it takes.”

Zappos’ Hill concurs: “A large part of our success can be attributed to the partnerships we have with our wholesalers where we are both focused on building a successful business together for the long term.” He also adds that the company would be nothing if not for its customers. “[They] are our best brand advocates. They understand our culture and enjoy telling others about their experiences shopping with us. We have many stories of our call center reps going above and beyond to take care of our customers.” —Lyndsay McGregor ONLINE RETAILER

ZAPPOS

28 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_Profiles_03.indd 28

2/22/12 10:05 AM

NATIONAL CHAIN

WITH MORE THAN 200 stores nationwide, it’s easy to forget Nordstrom’s modest beginnings as a shoe store in Seattle, but that history may help explain why, more than 100 years later, the company continues to earn honors from the industry—including this year’s Plus Award for Best National Chain.

Yet Scott Meden, executive vice president and GMM of shoes, is quick to note that the company isn’t resting on its laurels. “While accolades like this are nice, we know we have the opportunity to further improve our product and service offerings for the customer,” he notes. “Collectively, our team is very focused on continuing to execute a customer-driven strategy to deliver compelling new product and the kind of experience that gives the customer a reason to shop with us.”

Specifically, in 2011 that meant continuing to deliver a diverse array of new shoe styles to keep shoppers coming back for more. “Our customer is clearly responding to fresh product and the best fashion the market has to offer,” Meden points out. In addition, the company has been quick to adapt to consumers’ shifting shopping habits—from rolling out mobile checkout devices at all of its full-line stores last year to introducing its first shopping app. “We recognize customers increasingly have better tools, more information and the ability to shop on their own terms,” Meden notes. “We’re responding and developing more ways to help us be where the customer wants us to be.”

It all added up to another banner year for the chain, with same-store sales up by 7.2 percent last year.

Of course, Meden notes that Nordstrom couldn’t have done it without the help of its many standout manufacturers. “We recognize our success is the result of the many great partnerships we have with our vendors, who create the great product that we’re able to offer to customers in our stores,” he says. —A.G.

NORDSTROM

WOMEN’S COMFORT & CORPORATE GOODWILL

WHILE OTHER WOMEN’S brands may be getting the majority of their style cues from runways in New York and Paris, Dansko tunes in to a more direct source for design inspiration: its loyal consumers. “We’re much more attuned to lifestyle trends,” explains Dansko CEO Amanda Cabot. “Mainstream trends inspire us most and drive the expansion of the line.”

To stay on top of those trends, the company has perfected the art of taking its shoppers’ pulse, Cabot notes. “We survey our fans on our website and look for immediate feedback on purchase decisions with inbox surveys. We also track responses received by our customer service team and talk to customers directly at various events throughout the year,” she says, adding that last year, Stylophane, the publisher of the Facebook Fashion index, rated Dansko No. 1 among footwear brands for ‘Most Engaged Facebook Fans.’ “Not only are thousands of fans out there talking about us, but we’re listening—carefully,” she says.

That attentiveness continues to pay off for Dansko, as it brings home the Plus Award in the women’s comfort category for the sixth straight year. Not to mention, 2011 was the best year in the company’s history, with double-digit growth across all categories. And while the brand saw significant growth in its core clog business—sales of styles in the performance-based Arcadia collection, for example, were up by 36 percent—Dansko’s more recent brand extensions, like the Sanibel sneaker-clog collection and the Bristol tailored heel collection, have helped the company reach an even larger audience.

While the company may be best known for its comfort, industry insiders know that Dansko also delivers when it comes to keeping the planet healthy and its employees happy—two big factors behind why the brand snagged a Plus Award in the first-ever Corporate Goodwill category. Or as Cabot puts it about the award: “Not only does it underscore how our retail partners appreciate our commitment to socially responsible business practices, it really validates that we continue to be on the right path.”

On the environmental front, the brand’s headquarters boasts one of the most eco-friendly distinctions in the world—LEED Gold certification—with plans in the works to build an LEED-certified 200,000-square-foot warehouse to open this fall. Not to mention, the brand offsets 100 percent of its energy use with onsite solar energy and wind credits, redesigned its shoes boxes to use less paper and ink, and recycles, reuses or eliminates materials in the manufacturing process whenever it can.

On the philanthropic side, Dansko thinks both globally and locally thanks to the efforts of its employees, who are paid to volunteer up to 20 hours a year at local nonprofits and who also direct the Dansko Foundation, funded by company profits. Some of the organizations the foundation sponsored in 2011 include Habitat for Humanity, Wings for Success, AmeriKids and Ronald McDonald House. It’s all part of a plan to make Dansko’s employees feel empowered to help both on the job and beyond the brand’s headquarters—a mission that was recently realized when Dansko announced all of its shares were held by an Employee Stock Ownership Plan, resulting in a 100 percent employee-owned company.

Yet even with all of these endeavors, Dansko has no plans to scale back, Cabot notes. “Now that this award exists, we see it as a challenge, not only for Dansko going forward, but for the entire industry to elevate our game,” she says. “We look forward to some healthy competition going forward!” —A.G.

DANSKO

LAUNCH OF THE YEAR

EARTHIES

WHEN EARTH INC. dreamed up Earthies, a line of comfort footwear with high fashion-inspired silhouettes including short heels and wedges made of premium leathers and suedes, the company execs knew they were on to a big idea.

Earthies brought something long-sought to the comfort table: style.

“We set out to create products that excite women when they see them and deliver a memorable comfort experience when they try them on—similar to the level of comfort they’ve come to expect from Euro-comfort offerings,” explains President Gary Champion. “The femininity of the designs and the fashionable cues and accents serve as an invitation,” he adds. “And once we extend that invitation, it’s critical that the comfort of the product delivers against it during try-on.”

It’s that unexpected feeling of comfort that sets Earthies apart from its, for lack of a better word, frumpy competitors. That construction involves a threepronged approach: A cupped heel sets the foot into the proper supported position; an anatomic arch increases touch points along the transition from heel to forefoot; and a cradle toe area evenly distributes weight. As the marketing team at Earth penned it, it’s ‘Wellness. Elevated.’

“That’s the trigger behind the word-ofmouth storytelling and the pass-along,” Champion says. “When that begins to fall into place, you know you’re really onto something.”

Earthies showed strength across the board, with styles like the Bonaire, Veria, Cristiana and Sarenza all performing well at retail. Champion credits the succes to his product development team, who he says “turns over every stone as it builds out a line.” To that end, he argues that it’s nearly impossible to point to any specific point of design inspiration that made Earthies worthy of a Plus Award in the first-ever ‘Launch of the Year’ category. It’s how the team interpreted and represented all of these points, Champion maintains.

“They understand the nuance that goes into building out a line and where the subtleties should reside to ensure they’ll stand out.” —L.M.

march 2012 • footwearplusmagazine.com 29

FW_03_12_Profiles_03.indd 29

2/22/12 10:05 AM

P L U S AWA R D S 2 0 1 1 PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

RUNNING

NEW BALANCE ALTHOUGH NEW BALANCE is slated to surpass the $2-billion mark in sales this year (fueled largely by the success of its running division, which grew more than 10 percent last year in the U.S.), the company refuses to become complacent.

That’s why it placed a major emphasis on injecting new designs and fresh silhouettes into its successful running collection for 2011.

“In the beginning of 2010, we put a lot of effort in building up the design team,” says Tom Carleo, general manager of running and outdoor for the brand. That meant bringing in new designers and “creating a more focused and successful innovation zone,” he says. “It allowed us to step back from the daily grind of trying to compete in this category and to look downfield a little more.”

The result: two new lines that made quite a splash in the running category in 2011. First up was the REVlite collection, featuring a new lightweight foam compound that is up to 25 percent

RAIN BOOTS

HUNTER

lighter than its competition. Style standouts in this collection included the 890—which is made with .6mm synthetic suede and single-layer mesh and available in nontraditional colors like pops of lime, blended blues and hot lava reds—and the 1400, a low-profile race-day shoe that comes in a mix of bright colors inspired by the Ms. Pac-Man machines of the ’80s.

The second collection to make an impact was Minimus, a line of lightweight minimalist running shoes that focused on eliminating the difference between heel and forefoot height, creating flatter contact with the ground and mimicking the barefoot feel. Available in trail and road versions, the latter was recognized by Runner’s World as a top minimal shoe. Carleo notes that the Minimus collection was “on trend with the barefoot running buzz in the marketplace, which we were able to pounce on as early as anyone.” In fact, the collection was such a hit for New Balance that the

WHEN THE WORD luxury comes to mind, rain boots likely aren’t the two words that follow. But for Hunter, the 156-year-old rubber boot behemoth, that description is synonymous with what the brand represents. “Hunter Boots are made from natural rubber—from over 28 pieces that are vulcanized together—so the quality is exceptional. We are the luxury boot in our category,” says Wendy Svarre, president and CEO of the Scottish-born Wellington boot brand worn by the likes of Britain’s Queen Elizabeth and the Duke of Edinburgh. “Our original Wellington boot has a long history of classic style and performance for which we are proud of and hold to be a key reason why our customers are loyal to the Hunter Boot brand.”

For 2011, Hunter stepped in line with the wildly popular equestrian and country-living inspired trends that dominated the boot market. Many of its Regent Carlyle and St. James riding boot styles featured two-toned color schemes (such as the classic black and brown, brown and hunter green, camel and brown, and black and burgundy) with details like gold buttons and a monogrammed ‘H’.

Svarre also points to the brand’s high-fashion heeled styles—with slim silhouettes and hardware like zippers, multiple buckles and lace-up detailing—as a best-seller and notes, “We always focus on functionality, style and performance as important factors to

brand has already introduced new styles, like the Minimus Zero for Spring ’12, and will continue to do so for several seasons, Carleo maintains.

The two running collections only serve to further boost the expansive offerings that Carleo says New Balance is known for. “What’s most unique about New Balance is the breadth of our design line,” he declares. But this breadth also comes at a price: Mainly, the pressure to consistently tie its disparate lines together. “Our burden is to make it look like there’s connectivity—that it’s not five or six different brands,” Carleo explains. And to do this, he says New Balance will continue designing running shoes that meet its customers’ needs, whether they’re occasional runners or hardcore marathoners. “We have to continue to be slaves to the human foot, because that’s what we’re here for: to do the best construction possible,” Carleo says. “And when you do that, you’ll get fresh design.” —Mary Avant

consider when designing each collection.”

It’s this combination of fashion and function that makes Hunter a hit at Chicago-based Hanig’s Footwear. “Hunter fulfills two niches,” notes owner Dan Hanig. “It looks good and people are using them as a fashion item, and it also works for the wet, slushy Chicago winters.” While Hanig reports that black was still the No. 1 color for his customers, the brand’s olive green was a close second in 2011.

Svarre reports that numbers for the brand were strong in 2011. “Sales of the original boot and the Welly socks have been growing steadily as new customers discover Hunter and current customers return for additional colors and socks to update their wardrobes,” she says. Hanig, who reports its Hunter boot sales were up in 2011, says that his store sold the brand’s socks one-to-one with boots and adds that the men’s side is booming. “The guys are catching on that it’s a really comfortable brand and great for Chicago,” he says. “And it looks good, too.”

Outside of the rain boot arena, the brand introduced a line of leather footwear for both men and women, as well as an all-weather outerwear collection for men, women and children. Hunter has also been dipping its toes in the collaboration waters, partnering with luxury home-goods brand MacKenzie-Childs for a “Courtley Check” signature print boot hitting select retailers this spring. —M.A.

30 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_Profiles_03.indd 30

2/22/12 10:05 AM

FOP_31 31

2/20/12 12:23:30 PM

P L U S AWA R D S 2 0 1 1 PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

WOMEN’S STREET

WITHOUT A TUMBLEWEED in sight, city slickers scooped up plenty of Minnetonka’s suede fringe boots, beaded sandals and traditional moccasins—all complementary accessories for the ongoing native and tribal trends sweeping women’s fashion in 2011. In addition to being on-trend, Minnetonka’s 66-year legacy of crafting quality footwear made the brand the authentic choice among fashionistas. “We’re the real deal and, more than ever, the fashion shopper is looking for authenticity,” explains President Scott Sessa.

Design highlights in 2011 included double-fringe, side-zip booties; tall boots with dramatic multi-tiers of fringe; and the El Paso suede and fabric moccasin, a traditional silhouette with a pop of southwest color. Sessa adds that an expanding offering of fringe and beaded sandals, which he notes is taking a more fashion-oriented direction with higher heel espadrilles and cork wedges, helped secure Minnetonka as a year-round must-have in closets. In fact, Sessa hears stories about women eager to expand their collections and be the first to own the newest color or silhouette. “We have customers that call stores to track the arrival of new product,” he says, adding that limited-edition colors have helped fuel the frenzy. For example, teal and cranberry were offered for spring, followed by brick and evergreen in the fall. The forecast for Spring ’12: fringe boots in royal navy and cherry red.

Sessa reports 2011 as a record-setting year with the company’s “plethora of mocs and slippers” and fringe boots selling well. Based on orders for 2012 and the native-inspired trend continuing, he expects another banner year. Just don’t label Minnetonka a one-trick pony, Sessa advises, noting its latest designs are in step with themes coming down the pipeline. “From tribal to motorcycle, we’re on trend,” he says. —Angela Velasquez

MINNETONKA

BRAND OF THE YEAR AND PICKING UP A Plus Award in the boots category for the fifth BOOTS straight year and snagging this year’s coveted Brand of the Year award, it’s no secret that powerhouse sheepskin boot brand Ugg is still going strong. In fact, sales for the brand were up by 48 percent in the third quarter of 2011 and on track to top $1 billion for the year.

What’s made the brand stand out year after year? “Consumers always respond to our casual, comfortable footwear that can take them to the office, school, outdoors, city streets and home,” explains Brand President Connie Rishwain. That versatility, she notes, is reflected in the styles that rocked at retail, from the brand’s entire slipper category (especially the newcomer Ansley) to the equestrian collection, the surf collection and the brand’s sneakers, including the Evera.

That diversity is also what helped the brand maintain its momentum in 2011, says Leah Larson, vice president of product. “The standout factor from Ugg this year was the ability to create a range of footwear from our classic shearling boot to high-fashion footwear, while maintaining an impeccable level of luxury, comfort and function,” she says. On the high-fashion side, that included the launch of the Ugg Collection, luxury footwear and handbags made in Italy using exotic skins and materials, like stingray, python and ostrich embossed leather. On the casual side, styles like the men’s desert boot collection, featuring a genuine crepe outsole and the brand’s signature shearling lining, scored big with shoppers.

In fact, Ugg’s vastly expanded men’s collection picked up more than a few admirers last year, including New England Patriots quarterback Tom Brady, who sported the brand’s new designs in its fall advertising campaign. Larson says that the Cascade collection, which combined comfort and performance features like a Vibram outsole, waterproof uppers and shearling lining with “smart street style,” elicited an amazing response at retail. —A.G.

UGG

CUSTOMER SERVICE & MEN’S COMFORT

CLARKS KNOWS A thing or two about customer service, as it has long been considered top of the class by retailers nationwide. And last year the company upped its game even further by rolling out a consumer-focused platform to improve the shopping experience and get a better grip on why buyers were reaching out. “Our approach is simple: Partner with our retail customers and be the easiest company to do business with,” says Elizabeth Parker, director of customer service.

“In addition, regardless of point of purchase, we simply want all of our customers to have the same Clarks experience.” This new platform has made life easier for all, enabling retailers to check availability, place and track orders, and access marketing materials. As Parker notes, “Our approach is constantly evolving, but we’re always focused on keeping our product on our customer’s feet and delivering service that centers around accessibility, commitment and partnership.”

The effort hasn’t gone unrewarded. Sales in 2011 were up by double digits, as confirmed by Vice President of Men’s Glen Arentowicz, who credits the brand’s success with its ability to deliver on its promise every time. “The most overt call-outs for Clarks men’s shoes are comfort, value and details,” he says. Arentowicz adds that all of its designs are what the company refers to as a groundup process, meaning its shoes are unique as well as structurally sound and comfortable. “We make every effort to offer the details that make our shoes look special,” he explains, pointing to last year’s introduction of the Maguire collection as the perfect example. Intended to attract a consumer with an elevated sense of style, the line was built with quality details of classic bench-made shoes such as stacked heels and leather welts. “In men’s, it’s the little things like lining colors, webbing details and leather finishes that make our line successful,” he says.

Overall, Arentowicz says consumers were drawn to Clarks’ updated styles and colors in 2011—and the comfort features are a given. “Men are wearing more color and we delivered on that,” he says, citing the Wave Walk collection and the Broome and Hunter series as bestsellers. Building on the success of previous Wave Walk styles—which include a comfort system featuring a rocker sole construction that uses the foot’s natural momentum—last year’s editions evolved into diverse groupings of on-trend styles. The Broome includes taupes, olives and navy with light touches of color, while the Hunter, a vulcanized group, featured steel blue and gray. Supremely comfortable and equally stylish, Clarks’ iconic Desert Boot also received updates and performed well at retail last year. “It’s critical that we make product that men can easily determine what to wear it with,” Arentowicz says. “We like to ‘wardrobe’ our brand from classic wool pants to dark denim to chinos.” —L.M

CLARKS

32 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_Profiles_03.indd 32

2/22/12 10:06 AM

WOMEN’S STREET CATEGORY

MINNETONK AMOCCASIN.COM

THANK YOU TO OUR RETAILERS FOR ALL OF YOUR SUPPORT. WE ARE JUMPING FOR JOY AND COULDN’T HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOU. FOP_33 33

2/20/12 11:48:08 AM

P L U S AWA R D S 2 0 1 1 PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

WELLNESS FITFLOP CASHED IN on the comfort craze almost five years ago with its casual sandals and sneakers that became an instant hit with women nationwide. Featuring a biomechanically engineered Microwobbleboard midsole that activates leg muscles and offers shock absorption and underfoot pressure relief, busy moms loved the fact that they could “work out while [they] walked,” says FitFlop founder Marcia Kilgore.

But the brand soon realized a shift in design was necessary. “Customers have reported back that they get hooked on the FitFlop feeling, but don’t have style options to wear to work or to wear for betweenseason weather,” Kilgore reports. “So we’ve worked over the past couple of years to fit our technology in a fashionable way into shoes and boots that will give our customers the opportunity to wear FitFlop 365 days a year.”

To this end, FitFlop released designs in 2011 like the Supertone sneaker for men and women, the two-bar Gogh slide and the crystalstudded Rokkit sandal, as well as a cool-weather, multi-occasion collection that included the single-piece, molded upper Shuv clog. Kilgore adds that colors like plum, midnight blue and metallics for its High Summer collection and amber gold and cool grays for men were popular sellers last year.

In addition, 2011 saw several high-end collaborations for the brand, including the debut of the floral print Fiorella, a guest-design by Anna Sui that Kilgore says was a hit for retailers like Nordstrom and Harrods.

FitFlop also partnered with the women of the Wola Nani cooperative in Cape Town, South Africa, to release the hand-beaded Manyano sandal, which was sold exclusively on Net-A-Porter.com. “We believe fashion has the ability to unite women across the world, and we are extremely proud to support Wola Nani and help HIV sufferers to take control of their lives with confidence, diginity and hope,” Kilgore says.

These partnerships are just one reason for the brand’s continued growth. Kilgore notes the average buyer has shifted from just the “time-starved but appearance-conscious” mother to commuting career girls, teenagers and, most notably, men.

“While we started out focusing mainly on the female customer, we very quickly had men asking us, ‘Where are mine?’” Kilgore maintains. “Our total business has grown 50 percent-plus year on year for the past four years, but our men’s business is building even faster.” —M.A.

FITFLOP

CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE

HARRY’S SHOES

HARRY’S SHOES ON Manhattan’s Upper West Side has been outfitting New Yorkers with stylish footwear since the 1930s, and while its smorgasbord of A-list brands has earned the store a loyal following, it’s the traditional sit-and-fit standard of customer service that keeps them coming back season after season.

“Whether providing information on key features and benefits, advice on style or color trends, or expertise in fitting, we are constantly making efforts to expand the knowledge base of our staff,” says Harry’s COO Robert Goldberg. Customers value the experienced staff’s expertise in providing patient and attentive fittings, taking the time to measure and evaluate the fit of each pair based on factors like the flexion, girth and width of a foot.

“They go to extraordinary lengths to determine customers’ needs and to attempt to satisfy them,” he says. “Our wholesale partners respect this level of service and provide their own expertise to facilitate this. In turn, we attempt to provide a proper forum for their products, respecting them with the integrity they deserve.”

A throwback to classic shoe retailing, Harry’s offers a plethora of styles (key brands include Frye, Merrell, Ecco, Ugg, Clarks, Cole Haan, Dansko and Ara), plenty of fitting chairs, Brannock devices and knowledgeable salespeople, minus pushy sales tactics. There’s nothing self-service about Harry’s, which serves as an antidote to the largely stripped-down nature of retailing today. It’s old-school, and that’s what makes Harry’s a memorable customer experience.

Not surprisingly, Goldberg says that business last year for Harry’s was solid. “In any economy—good, bad or indifferent—we attempt to challenge ourselves in every facet of our business, including merchandising, marketing, staffing and training—and especially in an unwavering focus on the consumer,” he says. “It is our commitment to meeting their desire for style, selection and—most critically— service that we believe is our key to continued success.” —L.M. Robert Goldberg

CHILDREN’S

A FEW YEARS ago, when stock prices for Crocs dropped to less than a $1 per share, many in the industry were quick to write the brand’s distinctive designs off as a fashion fad that had gone the way of the fanny pack. But with revenue topping $1 billion in 2011 and a Plus Award in the children’s category, it’s clear that Crocs are here to stay—and to keep ringing the register for retailers.

Dale Bathum, senior vice president of product at Crocs, chalks up the impressive turnaround to the brand’s expansion beyond its signature clog, but notes that it’s not just a wide array of new products catching consumers’ attention. “It’s a little bit more than one style or one design cue; it’s the idea that Crocs is more than a single injected-molded clog now,” he explains. “Before, we just had one or two styles and those sold very well, and they were an impulse buy. But now we’ve really become a brand with collections and storytelling and given kids a chance to personalize their product.”

In 2011, the brand introduced sneakers for the first time in its back-toschool kids’ collection, combining Crocs’ signature lightweight Croslite material in the midsole and outsole with a traditional canvas upper. “It’s a known silhouette but it’s just been ‘Crocofied’ because it’s so lightweight and

CROCS

comfortable,” he points out. The brand also scored big with kids thanks to its Chameleon translucent series released in May, featuring shoes that change color in the sun. “We had such good response from the kids’ collection that we’re now pushing it out to the women’s line,” Bathum adds. Not to mention, the brand’s licensed lines, like Cars and SpongeBob SquarePants, continued to keep consumers coming back for more.

It’s an approach to footwear—innovative, lightweight, comfortable, fun, colorful and unique, Bathum says—that kids intuitively understand and parents appreciate. “The easy on-and-off is critical, both for the kids and parents, because it’s easy for the parents and the kids like the responsibility.” Plus, the affordable price point makes it an easy purchase for parents—a big bonus for stores who carry the collection.

“Retailers get a complete footwear line that generates revenue for them,” Bathum adds. “It’s the whole package.” —A.G.

34 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_Profiles_03.indd 34

2/22/12 10:06 AM

Thank you to our retailers and to Footwear Plus for honoring us with this year’s

2011 Plus Award for

Design Excellence

in the pre-walkers category

Available in sizes newborn to US 2 youth At pediped® footwear we believe it is essential that kids’ shoes be both stylish and comfortable.

That is why pediped® offers more than 100 adorable styles of flexible footwear for children.

Now in sizes up to EU 33 (US 2 youth).

www.pediped.com

size: 0-6 months - 18-24 months

FOP_35 35

size: EU 19 - 23 (US 4 - 7 kids)

size: EU 20 - 33 (US 5 kids - 2 youth)

2/20/12 11:48:12 AM

P L U S AWA R D S 2 0 1 1 PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

PRE-WALKERS

PEDIPED

MINIMALISM WAS ALL the rage in 2011, but Pediped tapped into the lightweight idea long before barefoot became the new black for toddlers.

In 2004, the brand—launched by husband and wife Brian and Angela Edgeworth—debuted its Originals line of shoes for babies from newborn to 24 months. Designed to mimic the feeling of barefoot walking by incorporating soft, flexible leather and a spacious toebox, the Edgeworths crafted a shoe that was “the next best thing to bare feet” for infants learning to walk. “We’re true to our beliefs in barefoot technology,” says Angela Edgeworth, president. “We’ve been saying this since the early 2000s: Barefoot is best.”

Over the years, the Pediped line has expanded into a three-step system, which now also includes the Grip ‘n’ Go line—an early-walkers line launched in 2011 that fits 9 months to 3 years—and the Flex collection, a line for confident walkers ages 1 to 8 years. And while the launch of Grip ‘n’ Go was the highlight of Pediped’s business in 2011, sales of the Originals were nothing to scoff at. With an updated outsole for better grip and breathability, as well as the debut of new colors and style features, the line had a lot to offer. “We were driven by color, materials and silhouettes,” Edgeworth says, noting that the brand introduced both boys’ and girls’ ankle boots in 2011, a silhouette that was especially popular in the Northeast. Purple and multi-color shoes, like the Daisy sandal, were big hits on the girls side and, although Edgeworth says she likes to keep colors simple for the boys, even the Jax—a navy and gray sneaker—experimented with pops of neon green.

But no matter the color or silhouette, it’s Pediped’s quality and comfort that matter most to its customers. “We always consider that children are tough on their shoes, so we build shoes to withstand this,” Edgeworth maintains, noting that the company performs extensive wear testing and constantly seeks customer feedback to ensure its shoes are as comfortable and durable as possible.

“When we design, we think hard about: ‘Is it going to function well? Is it going to wear well?’ That’s what parents rely on us to do,” she explains. “We don’t want to put a shoe out there that looks good but doesn’t wear well.” — M.A.

WOMEN’S DRESS. RED LIPS, PLATINUM hair and an adventurous appetite for fashion—if you’re part of L.A.M.B.’s design team being led by the point of view of one of pop culture’s most iconic fashion plates, outstanding design comes easy. “The themes we follow that make up the aesthetic of the L.A.M.B. line are very symbolic of Gwen Stefani’s personal style and that in itself is unique,” explains Sarah Formslag, national sales manager for Titan Industries, the licensor for L.A.M.B. footwear.

For 2011, that meant blending L.A.M.B. (and Stefani’s) signature motifs—African prints, Jamaican-inspired colors and aggressive silhouettes influenced by Japan’s Harajuku girls—with new bright colors, textures and unique constructions that complement the brand’s core look and speak to the L.A.M.B. wearer. That’s one reason Head Designer Elizabeth Benzing enjoys designing for L.A.M.B. She says there is room to be inventive and there’s freedom to play with new constructions, but notes, “We’re not chasing trends. It just so happens that what we do is also what the market is following.” For example, L.A.M.B. struck gold with chunky platforms in 2011, and as Benzing notes, so did many other brands. “But it’s part of our Harajuku inspiration that’s been there from the start of the line,” she explains. “For us, it’s natural and not forced.” Other highlights included glossy coral stilettos, exotic material mixes, curved heels and graphic black and white combinations by way of bold prints.

It’s an eclectic mix sure to stand out on store shelves, and is also supported by successful apparel and handbag lines. Going into each season, Benzing says the apparel, handbag and footwear design teams trade inspirations. “We work on very different calendars, but it comes together because we’re researching the same books and museums and telling one another about new materials we’ve seen,” she explains. “We never rest and as soon as we’re finished with one season, we already have ideas for the next three.” —A.V.

L.A.M.B.

OUTDOOR FOR OUTDOOR ENTHUSIASTS, 2011 was clearly the year to do more with less—specifically, to tackle trails and streams with lighter, brighter footwear. It’s no surprise then that Merrell, which launched its Barefoot collection in Spring ’11, took top honors for its active offerings.

“We collaborated with our longtime partner Vibram to create a collection of running, fitness and casual shoes that allow the feet and body to move naturally,” explains Seth Cobb, general manager of Merrell. “The consumer responded in a very big way and it turned into an immediate commercial success for our retail partners.”

With the brand’s minimalist trail and road running collections picking up accolades from magazines like Runner’s World (Best Debut of 2011) and Shape (Best Trail Running Shoe), it’s clear that the outdoor community embraced the brand’s take on barefoot. Specifically, the men’s Trail Glove and the women’s Pace Glove “became instant classics,” says Cobb, who attributes the styles’ popularity to a flawless combination of performance features—like a Vibram sole, a forefoot shock absorption plate and an antimicrobial footbed—with “progressive” eye-popping design and colorways, like orange, yellow and teal.

Yet Cobb is quick to note that the brand didn’t dive into the minimalist movement without thoroughly preparing both retailers and consumers. “We invested heavily during 2011 to educate the consumer about the barefoot movement and bareform running technique,” he adds. “We launched an educational microsite on Merrell. com, we created online videos that we shared with our retail partners, we developed a barefoot running app and we delivered POP to tell the barefoot story on the retail selling floor.” He adds, “We’d like to think that our efforts resonated with consumers and encouraged lots of them to enter the barefoot movement.”

Not to mention, barefoot wasn’t the only Merrell offering ringing the register in 2011, Cobb notes. The brand’s Origins collection, released to celebrate Merrell’s 30th anniversary, struck a chord with consumers seeking classic styles.

“We reached into our archives, found a few of our most iconic products and then re-imagined them with some modern technologies, more sustainable materials and updated colorways,” Cobb says. “It was a great play on our outdoor heritage and a great vehicle to appeal to a younger audience.” —A.G.

MERRELL

36 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_Profiles_03.indd 36

2/22/12 10:06 AM

LAUNCH OF THE YEAR

Seedling

“I’m begging you – please don’t stop making these amazing shoes!

I can’t thank you enough!”

Ferrara

- Jessica S.*

*Actual unsolicited consumer testimonial posted to Earth Brands’ Facebook® Page.

Kalsø Earth® Shoe (kalsoearthshoes.com), Earth® Footwear (earthfootwear.com) and Earthies® (earthiesusa.com) are all trademarks of Earth, Inc. (Waltham, MA). 781.893.7474 | info@earthbrands.com. © 2012 Earth, Inc.

FOP_37 37

2/20/12 11:48:17 AM

P L U S AWA R D S 2 0 1 1 PROFILES IN EXCELLENCE

WORK AND MEN’S STREET

WOLVERINE AND WOLVERINE 1000 MILE IN A YEAR when consumers were clamoring for authenticity in their sartorial selections, Wolverine’s 125-year history in the footwear industry clearly helped the company stand out: Completing its near-sweep of the Plus Awards, retailers recognized Wolverine’s rugged Work and 1000 Mile fashion collections for striking a delicate balance between timeless and trendy.

“Consumers look to us for making a comfortable, durable boot, and I think every time we come out with something new, we try and expand on something we’ve done in the past,” says John Estes, Wolverine’s vice president of sales. On the work side, that meant combining the brand’s time-tested Contour Welt and MultiShox comfort technologies with improvements like an abrasion-resistant ArmorTek coating on the high-wear areas of the boot for styles like the brand’s bestselling Corsair. “We just made the world’s most comfortable boot more durable,” Estes points out. Other popular updates included adding a TPU waterproof shell to the

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE

ADIDAS

brand’s SwampMonster—an adept adjustment for harsher environments.

Yet the biggest story for Wolverine in 2011, Estes says, is the growing consumer demand for the brand’s made-in-the-U.S.A. styles. The company was first encouraged to make products at its Michigan factory by its international distributors, Estes notes. “We said to ourselves, ‘What the heck are we doing? We’ve been around longer than anyone else. Why don’t we start doing this?’” Not to mention, the timing was just right, as consumers stateside started seeking domestically made goods, as well. “It’s really not a trend—it’s more like a movement. And I don’t see it going away anytime soon,” he asserts.

Wolverine’s rugged American-made work boots like the Northman and Plainsman, made with a Vibram outsole and premium leather, picked up a hefty following. But by far the biggest boost went to the brand’s 1000 Mile fashion collection, crafted in the company’s hometown of Rockford, MI, and based on Wolverine’s century-old original

designs. “We’ve taken pictures and photos from our archives and tried to keep the design as true to those old patterns as we could, since there’s such a huge movement towards vintage and heritage looks,” Estes explains.

It’s that nod to authenticity, he adds, that helped 1000 Mile stand out at retail and why the brand snagged a Plus Award in the Men’s Street category. “We actually have the old ads and catalogs it was in. It provides us leverage that other people don’t have,” he explains. It also allowed the brand to maintain a more premium price point starting at $265 and even including a $760 limited-edition shell-horsehide boot for Fall ’12 that sold out after just five short appointments.

In fact, sales for the 1000 Mile collection more than tripled in 2011—after only three fall seasons on the market, Estes reports. “We’ve never even been on the radar before for the Men’s Street Plus Award,” he points out. “For us to win, and to be chosen by the retailers, it’s really cool and flattering.” —A.G.

WITH MORE THAN 80 years of rich design heritage to tap into, Adidas took a look at the past to pave the way for a successful year in 2011.

Specifically, Simon Atkins, vice president of sport style at Adidas America, says the Adidas Originals collection, which has been around for more than 40 years, split into two areas of focus: “The iconic models that celebrate 40 years of Adidas Originals and a new reference point in contemporary models.”

On the iconic side, Adidas re-launched four styles that have been major sellers throughout Originals history: the Superstar, Samoa, Gazelle and Campus. Each of these shoes celebrate the Adidas heritage while “maximizing the core DNA of what makes Originals original,” Atkins says.

The re-launched styles hit their peak last fall with an all-Originals TV campaign featuring stars like NBA player Dwight Howard and Snoop Dogg.

The brand also reunited with Run DMC to promote the Superstar model—a shell-toed classic the rap group made famous in the ’80s. “It was a re-

ally great job of articulating who we are: authentic, iconic, original products,” Atkins maintains.

But not everything from Adidas Originals was old-school cool in 2011. With new products, the Adidas Originals aimed to capture a preppy, urban, sophisticated look. “These models are hitop, basketball lifestyle products meant for high school students that want to wear it when they’re not on the court,” Atkins explains. Shoes like the adiRise and AR 2.0 focused on material mixes— like full-grain and patent leathers—and subtle color pops in shades like burgundy and olive green. “Both males and females are clearly dressing to impress, and they’re doing that using color and material mixes,” he says.

Overall, Atkins reports that Adidas had a “stellar year” in 2011. In fact, for the first nine months of 2011, sales were up 14 percent overall in North America. “It’s great to see that consumers are coming back to athletic,” Atkins says. “Adidas’ business overall is on a run, and Adidas Originals is a major part of that.” —M.A.

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_Profiles_03.indd 38

2/22/12 10:06 AM

New Balance is proud to be the recipient of the 2011 Footwear Plus Award for design excellence in the running category.

We are pleased to introduce the latest example of our design innovation.

The Minimus Zero.

Zero Drop. More Excellent.

com/minimus FOP_39 39 NBLRUNP2047_D_V1a.indd 1

Š2012 New Balance Athletic Shoe, Inc.

2/21/12 8:43:49 AM 2/17/12 2:01 PM

MEN’S DRESS

COLE HAAN

WHEN IT COMES to award-winning design, Phil Russo, vice president of design for Cole Haan, says it all starts with the consumer and understanding their needs in terms of function and style. As in previous years, by merging timeless design with modern innovation, such as the use of Nike Air technology, Cole Haan has been able to change how classic dress shoes perform and function in modern environments. It’s a golden combination that shines at retail.

Daniel Leppo, Bloomingdale’s vice president and divisional merchandising manager of men’s classic sportswear, accessories, underwear and shoes, says, “Cole Haan is always unique in its shoes due to its ability to infuse Nike Technology into the production. This season, however, Cole Haan was able to marry that ability with its rightfully earned heritage as one of the best updated classic American style shoemakers, and the result was some of the trendiest shoes in the market.”

In 2011, Cole Haan based its designs on focused and visually robust color and material palettes that highlighted the brand’s key silhou-

ettes and product stories—a perfect blend of craftsmanship and innovation that Russo notes delivers solutions that really do make a difference as people go about their everyday designs.

And that’s not an easy task for a customer base that cares about the way they look just as much as how their shoes perform. “The beauty of Cole Haan is it’s potential breadth,” Leppo praises, adding, “The brand appeals to a classic consumer and has the ability to stretch to a contemporary consumer when their look is on trend. As a result, we can sell Cole Haan shoes to my grandfather, my fashion director and everyone whose lifestyle sits between the two.” —A.V.

DESIGNER BOUTIQUE

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

NEARLY FIVE YEARS after the express elevator doors opened to Saks Fifth Avenue’s 10022-SHOE, the department continues to dazzle countless consumers with more than 100,000 pairs of mouth-watering designer shoes and the highcaliber service such pedigree labels respect and demand.

Still the only shopping mecca the world over boasting its own postal code, Rena Krasnow, COO and fashion director for Aquatalia by Marvin K, believes Saks’ celebration of beautiful design and “brilliant marketing” have further established the importance of footwear as a whole in the minds of consumers. It’s as if Saks has created an 8,500-square-foot cathedral of couture shoes where fashion disciples come from all ends of the earth come to worship—and spend.

Along those lines, Krasnow says Aquatalia has worked with Saks for more than 15 years and, thanks to its openness to new ideas and trends, has created many successful exclusives for the flagship. Vena Cava designers Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock agree, lauding the retailer for taking risks

on new talent and channeling brands with a fresh aesthetic. “Supporting new lines always helps the industry,” Buhai says.

Saks’ celebration of haute footwear is carried from the selection to the décor and to the selling floor, says Suzanne Johnson, group senior vice president and general manager of Saks Fifth Avenue. Johnson finds that customers appreciate the relationships they have with its attentive sales associates and the extensive product knowledge they possess. “Our associates keep customers informed about new arrivals, special events and any additional initiatives throughout the store,” she explains. The store also offers personal amenities usually left to smaller, exclusive boutiques. Examples include an on-site cobbler and a private VIP room to enhance the attentiveness guests can receive.

“Many customers have commented that, when the doors open, they feel like a kid in a candy store,” Johnson says. “And then when customers are finished shopping or, if they simply need a break, they will stop into the Café SFA for a bite to top off the end of a perfect shopping experience.”

Still, beautiful shoes are the overwhelming reason a unique mix of A-list Manhattanites, as well as out-of-towners, keep coming back. By offering an assortment of the best fashion styles ranging from established to emerging designers such as Nicholas Kirkwood, Jerome Rousseau, Diego Dolcini and Chrissie Morris, Johnson says 10022SHOE has become a go-to, must-see destination. “The store always has a finger on the fashion pulse while still offering timeless styles,” Krasnow concurs. “There’s something for every kind of woman,” Mayock adds, noting that Saks has an edge without going too overboard or avant-garde.

If a retailer can learn one thing from this approach to footwear retailing, Mayock says it’s to dream big and take risks. “They are taking chances on new designer lines and this is really creating an exciting area to shop in,” she says. —A.V.

40 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_Profiles_03.indd 40

2/22/12 10:06 AM

2011 PLUS AWARDS EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN AND RETAIL

Congratulations Winners!

RUNNING Brooks Asics Saucony New Balance

RAIN BOOTS Hunter Chooka Bogs Sperry

WORK Wolverine Rocky Dansko Timberland Pro

ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE Keds Adidas Converse Vans

MEN’S DRESS Florsheim by Duckie Brown Cole Haan John Varvatos To Boot New York

OUTDOOR Merrell Sorel Teva Sanuk

MEN’S COMFORT Ecco Clarks Cushe Rockport

WOMEN’S DRESS Tory Burch L.A.M.B. Michael Kors Marc Jacobs

MEN’S STREET Wolverine 1000 Mile Sperry Abington Vintage

WOMEN’S COMFORT Dansko Earthies Naot Gentle Souls

CHILDREN’S Primigi Crocs Skechers Native

WOMEN’S STREET Toms Jeffery Campbell Minnetonka Jessica Simpson

BOOTS Frye Ugg Australia Fiorentini + Baker Born

PRE-WALKERS Livie & Luca Pediped See Kai Run Trimfoot

WELLNESS MBT Alegria FitFlop Aetrex

CORPORATE GOODWILL Dansko Kenneth Cole Nine West New Balance Timberland BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE (Write-in only) Clarks BEST NEW LAUNCH (Write-in only) Earthies

DESIGNER BOUTIQUE Chuckies Gregory’s Saks Fifth Avenue

FW_01_12_plus_award_congrats.indd 41

CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE Footprints Hanig’s Harry’s Shoes

BRAND OF THE YEAR Toms Ugg Australia Vibram FiveFingers Nike COMPANY OF THE YEAR VF Corporation Deckers Outdoor Wolverine Worldwide ONLINE Zappos ShoeBuy Piperlime

NATIONAL CHAIN DSW Macy’s Nordstrom

2/22/12 11:30 AM

Shopping the hottest Fall ’12 trends coming out of Brazil’s Couromoda show. By Angela Velasquez

BE A All That Glitters

Bright, glitzy and unabashedly over the top, this season’s crop of sparkly shoes shared Carnival’s gusto for exuberant and flashy style. Glitter jazzed up casual loafers and popped against deep shades of suede, but designers literally brought the party to the feet with chunky flecks in a kaleidoscope of colors and on a range of sexy dress silhouettes.

SAMBA

Studio TMLS

Raphaella Booz

Moleca

Suzana Santos

Reformed Prep School

Stéphanie Classic

Spot On

The Brits may have coined the look and the Americans brought it to mainstream fashion, but Brazilian designers have refined prep school-inspired loafers by focusing on fine leathers, saturated color and top-notch hardware.

Tassels remain, keeping the trend’s nostalgic vibe intact, but unlike past seasons where preppy styles stayed close to the ground, this fall delivered more sophisticated and feminine silhouettes with slender and stacked heels.

On the fast track to being one of the season’s must-have styles, leopardprint loafers were spotted across the show floor, lending a rockabilly vibe to an otherwise basic silhouette.

Tassel embellishments played into the shoe’s traditional shape, whereas pony hair and slivers of red upped the style’s animalistic wow-factor.

Laser Show

Via Marte

Piccadilly

Labeled a “summer boot” by many designers on the show floor, laser-cut and perforated open-toe booties outnumbered traditional boot silhouettes—just one of the many signatures of fall fashion south of the equator. Buckle treatments, exotic skins, patents, hints of mesh and unique takes on branding diversified the look, while a dense autumnal color palette kept booties on target for the season.

42

FW_03_Brazil_Feature_04_revise.indd 42

2/22/12 10:21 AM

T A Schutz

Gold Standards

Heel Raisers

A twist on futuristic materials and geometric shapes added a fun factor to women’s footwear.

Concave wedges and heels seemingly etched from precious stones prevailed. And unlike previous seasons, where toughas-nails, Lady Gaga-inspired architectural heels reigned, this fall is promising a sweeter take on the trend with glossy pink and citrus hues.

Jorge Bischoff

As if snakeskin pumps, color-soaked platforms and samba-ready stilettos weren’t already scenestealers, metallic gold heels gave these fall dress shoes the ultimate Midas touch.

Delicate back bows, skinny ankle straps and licks of red patent leather drew further attention to the daring look.

Via Marte

Studio TMLS

Sarah Chofakian

Satryni

Velvet Ground

Crushed, brushed or mixed with other lush materials, velvet cast a rich shadow on dress styles and winterized opentoe sandals. All-over velvet spruced up everyday silhouettes, including the season favorite, loafers, with textural interest that could carry into night. The tufted fabric was especially a complementary choice for retro-inspired silhouettes, adding drama to ’30s-era T-straps, elegance to ’50s-style peep-toe pumps and groove to disco-ready platforms.

Bottero

Werner

Sun Block

Shades of sun-kissed tan, burnt red and golden yellow enriched color block styles with warmth and provided a subtle yet quirky alternative to basic neutrals. The autumn color palette complemented go-to fall fabrications like suede and created a new breed of jewel-tone snakeskin.

SHOES IN TRANSLATION With the number of millionaires in Brazil on the rise and predicted to surpass one million by 2020, designers are looking to cash in with homespun luxury footwear that gives European and Asian fashion labels a run for their money in terms of quality and style.

Here, Brazilian fashion consultant Sonia Elbachá dishes about leading Fall ’12 trends, which themes will resonate with American buyers and what’s inspiring Brazil’s best designers. —A.V. Which colors are trending for Fall ’12? Lots of natural colors, but I’m seeing more and more sophisticated shades of deep blue or “bleu de chine,” green, ruby, aubergine, tangerine and even rose gold being paired with neutrals for contrast. It’s a grown-up look that can also be found in fabrications. Look for soft and luminous leathers and high-shine metallic leathers, alongside natural cottons, canvas, artisanal materials and ecological materials that improve sustainability in designs.

Which silhouettes should buyers be on the look out for? There’s an overload of styles that contradict one another. For example, for every slim high heel in a collection, there is a wedge.

But in general, there’s a pull for more feminine, lighter and less aggressive silhouettes. There are certainly more pointed toe and rounded toe pumps on a single sole this season. These shoes are more sensual than attention grabbing. Flats, slippers, oxfords and lightweight, flexible sneakers are also on the rise.

Which styles do you think will appeal to U.S. consumers? Styles like flat loafers and oxfords will translate to American consumers.

The shoes are casual with a feminine shape.

I also think lightweight sneakers will do well, because they have a wellness look to them.

Did you see any apparel trends at last month’s São Paulo Fashion Week that will influence footwear trends? For Fall ’12 there are a lot of fluid and clean silhouettes that call for simple well-made shoes, like slippers and ankle booties.

What do you think inspires Brazilian footwear designers? Seduction, freedom and a joyous spirit. The vibrant fashion and lifestyle of Rio de Janeiro inspires so many footwear designers. However, more than ever, São Paulo’s cosmopolitan lifestyle is influencing designers and consumers.

Describe a shoe that every Brazilian woman has in her closet. Comfortable flat sandals, peep-toe wedges and colorful high heels.

2012 march • footwearplusmagazine.com 43

FW_03_Brazil_Feature_04_revise.indd 43

2/22/12 1:58 PM

TREND SPOTTING Haflinger

Polar Feet

Ugg Australia

Acorn

Giesswein

44 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_trendspotting_02_slippers.indd 44

2/20/12 10:20 AM

Ugg Australia Haflinger

Bearpaw

Baabaazuzu

Here Comes the Fuzz

Acorn

From earthy textures to a crush of berry hues, a crop of fall slippers explores nature’s comforts, while blurring the line between indoor and outdoor footwear. By Angela Velasquez

2012 march • footwearplusmagazine.com 45

FW_03_12_trendspotting_02_slippers.indd 45

2/20/12 10:20 AM

fw_03_fashion_final_trev.indd 46

2/22/12 9:50 AM

Piccadilly patent cut-out oxfords. Hosiery by Falke.

Vintage clothing provided throughout by Linda Varady Berman.

47

fw_03_fashion_final_trev.indd 47

2/22/12 9:50 AM

Suede and metallic leather Mary Janes

by Naot. Jewelry by Circa Sixty Three.

Opposite: Juil slides.

48

fw_03_fashion_final_trev.indd 48

2/22/12 9:50 AM

fw_03_fashion_final_trev.indd 49

2/22/12 9:50 AM

fw_03_fashion_final_trev.indd 50

2/22/12 10:13 AM

Aetrex lace-ups.

Urban Outfitters suit; shirt by Express.

51

fw_03_fashion_final_trev.indd 51

2/22/12 9:53 AM

From left: Dearfoams men’s velvet slipper; criss-cross strap Mary Jane by Earth; double strap Mary Jane by Blondo; Born oxford pump. Opposite from left: 2568 driving moc; penny loafer

by Ecco.

52

fw_03_fashion_final_trev.indd 52

2/22/12 9:54 AM

fw_03_fashion_final_trev.indd 53

2/22/12 9:54 AM

Essence by Aetrex patent peeptoe slingbacks. On her: Falke stockings; ring and necklace worn as a bracelet by Laruicci.

On him: Alfani suit and shirt; Express tie.

fw_03_fashion_final_trev.indd 54

2/22/12 9:54 AM

On her: Plum oxfords by Ahnu. Belt

by J. Crew. On him: O’Quirey by Jan Palmen brogue. Urban Outfitters tee; Benson shorts; Rockport by United Legwear argyle socks.

Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez Styling: Robyn Victoria Makeup: Sheri Terry/Next Management Hair: Lydia O’Carroll Models: Whitney Tock/Supreme Management; Thatcher Dodge/Q Management 55

fw_03_fashion_final_trev.indd 55

2/22/12 9:54 AM

Clockwise from top left: J Shoes crepe sole lace-up; blue suede chukka by Ted Baker; burnished boot by Sebago; Bed Stu leather sole chukka.

D E S I G N E R C H AT : CALLEEN CORDERO

E D I T O R’ S PI CKS

Chukka On

Rich textures and a dip of color refreshes the men’s staple for fall.

Who is the best-dressed woman? I love Kate Moss. She has a great ability to mix and match pieces in a casual-chic way.

anything else, but if I still owned my current factory, I would love to expand into designing and manufacturing wood and leather furniture.

What designers do you love for Fall ’12? I’m really inspired by Dries Van Noten for his ability to utilize different fabrics and textures that don’t necessarily go together. As a designer, the materials I’m working with each season inspire many of my designs. I won’t limit myself to conventional materials, since there’s inspiration in so many mediums.

What trends have you seen enough of? Overthe-knee boots and ballet flats with a bow or designer logo hardware.

Which footwear label do you admire the most? Alexander McQueen. McQueen had an ability to push boundaries and think outside the box, with a bit of dark humor. He revolutionized the industry to take fashion to an entirely new level.

What do you think you’d be doing if you weren’t designing shoes? I can’t think of

What’s your favorite shoe of all time? I happen to have a serious love affair with a design from my own collection that I have in four colors and have been wearing for more than four years: my Latigo lace-up boot. It is handsdown my go-to dress shoe for all of my outfits.

Which shoes in your closet are getting the most wear right now? I pulled, from my garage, a pair of tall brown riding boots with a modern romantic feel. They were from my 2008 collection. Everyone’s been flipping out about them, so they’re going to be put back in the collection for this fall.

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN POWELL

TALK ABOUT GETTING an early start: Calleen Cordero, the designer behind the eponymous line, began her career in the footwear industry at age 15 as an assistant buyer at a high-end Los Angeles-based boutique. By age 16, she was hired as a merchandiser for Sam Edelman.

Currently, of course, Cordero is best known for her artisan-quality made-in-the-U.S.A. footwear collection, which she launched in 1999 from her garage. “I would drive home with samples on the dashboard of my car,” Cordero recalls with a laugh. “I made my first five styles and I took them to the owner of Madison. He ended up writing me a check on the spot for $3,500, and I took that business and went back and made more shoes.”

Now, Cordero’s boho-chic designs are sold everywhere from Madison to fashion-forward comfort stores. Yet even with such an impressive resume, Cordero felt she was missing out on a chance to expand her design repertoire, held back by the size of her factory and her current customer’s preferences.

“She’s not wearing 6-inch heels,” she explains. “She wants something a lot more practical.”

So when the brand’s production moved to a new 10,000-square-foot factory in North Hollywood, Cordero knew it was finally time to make the “higher-end, sexy silhouettes” she’d been longing to design. Aimed at stores like Jeffrey, Bergdorf Goodman and Maxfield, the Cordero collection launching this fall will include a limited number of couture styles retailing from $700 to $900.

The architecturally inspired wedges and heels will feature unique details like hand-woven neon uppers and heels made using a combination of Lucite and wood. “I’m not taking the approach of trying to develop a 30-style collection with something for everyone in the higher-end price point,” she explains. “I’m really making each item a piece of sculptural art.” —Audrey Goodson 56 footwearplusmagazine.com march 2012

FW_03_12_Shoe_Salon_01.indd 56

2/20/12 10:12 AM

RIKER • REPUBLIC INDEMNITY• ROCKPORT CO • ROMIKA • SEBAGO • SIMPLE LOGIC • SKECHERS • SKECHERS USA • SOFFT • SOFTSPOTS • SOFTWALK • SPENCO MEDICAL • SPRING • TAOS • TIMBERLAND CO • TROTTERS • TWO TEN FOUNDATION • US CONTINENTAL • WSA/ENK

FOP_57 57

BE A WINNER IN 2012!

“CAMPAIGNING FOR YOUR CUSTOMERS’ VOTES” You’re elected to attend the

USRA May Event

May 1-3, 2012 at the beautiful JW Marriott in Las Vegas Where Footwear Delegates will convene to plan for a bigger and brighter future.

KEYNOTE SPEAKERS

Joe Salzano

Bob Infantino

Angel R. Martinez

Tarek Hassan

You’ll learn from industry leaders how to become more popular with your customers, how to increase your constituents and earn their loyalty votes.

The Best Networking Event You Will Attend hosted by

One Industry. One Goal. One Place.

Call or email the USRA office for Membership information and a May Event package.

818-703-6062 Linda@USRAonline.org www.USRAONLINE.ORG

• PR!VO • PARCEL MANAGEMENT GROUP • ORTHAHEEL • OeTZI3300 • NO SOX • NEW BALANCE ATHLETIC SHOE • NAYA FOOTWEAR • NATURALIZER • NAOT • MEPHISTO • MERRELL • MUNRO • MBT

• EARTH INC • EARTHIES • ECCO USA • FINN COMFORT • FITFLOP INC • FLORSHEIM • FLEXX • FN PLATFORM • FOOTWEAR PLUS MAGAZINE • GOLITE FOOTWEAR • GRAVITY DEFYER • HELLE COMFORT • INDIGO • JOHNSTON & MURPHY • JOSEF SEIBEL • KORK-EASE • LIBERTY INSURANCE COMPANY •

MAY EVENT 2012 SPONSORS: AETREX WORLDWIDE • AHNU FOOTWEAR • ARAVON • ARCOPEDICO • ARIAT INTERNATIONAL • BIRKI'S • BORN • CAT FOOTWEAR • THE CLARKS COMPANIES • COBB HILL • CROCS • DANSKO • DUNHAM BOOTMAKERS

2/22/12 11:17:57 AM

w h a t ’ s s e l li n g Propét

Clarks

Ecco

sit & fits

BIG ‘N LITTLE SHOES

SHOES 4 COMFORT

Since 1966, Big ‘N Little Shoes has specialized in size-and-width, support and prescription footwear, offering just the right amount of comfort and style to tots, teens and well-shod adults. There’s even a certified pedorthist on staff—no appointment necessary. The Windy City spot stocks everything from popular picks like Hush Puppies, New Balance and Clarks to kids’ staples like Stride Rite and Jumping Jacks. Store manager John Gold notes that while Big ‘N Little plans to grow its Internet business this year, it will continue to focus on its decades-old philosophy of offering a wide range of sizes and selection.

For more than 60 years, Shoes 4 Comfort has been providing orthopedic shoes and accessories to generations of residents in Silver Spring, MD. For shoppers looking for extended widths and sizes, the store’s knowledgeable staff will hook customers up with comfortable styles from the likes of SAS, New Balance, Clarks, Beautifeel, Mephisto, Munro, Ecco and Naot. Orthotics, insoles, foot care products, and diabetic and casual socks are also available. Marguerite Satian, the store’s president, says her customers’ No. 1 priority is comfort: “That’s what they’re coming to me for, rather than style or price.”

What makes your store unique? We carry things you can’t get anywhere else, including exclusive brands like Z-CoiL and hard-to-find sizes like women’s widths up to 40W, men’s sizes up to 16 and women’s up to 13.

Current top-selling brands: We get a lot of referrals from doctors who advise their patients to come to our store and, ‘Go get a pair of SAS shoes.’ They’re not the most stylish, but they’re comfortable. That’s our main seller, followed by Munro. They offer sizes, widths and half-sizes that many European brands don’t.

Chicago, IL

Current top-selling brands: Gravity Defyer, New Balance and Propét for adults and Stride Rite and Jumping Jacks for kids.

Mephisto

Top-selling accessories: We do a heck of a job with children’s hairbows from Wee Ones.

Best new brand added to the mix in the past year: Definitely Gravity Defyer. They’re well-made, comfortable shoes.

Just how has the non-winter to date impacted your sales? Actually, sales have been pretty good.

Without the bad weather we’ve certainly had more traffic than usual. And although boot sales aren’t what they normally are, we’ve picked up everywhere else. People are out and about a lot more when the weather is nice.

Hush Puppies

How might it affect your buying plans for next fall? Less boots, perhaps? We’ll probably carry about the same. The nice thing about boots is the styles don’t change that radically from year to year. We’re so size-driven that if it fits and it’s dry, style isn’t necessarily that important.

Naot

What’s your take on the shaping and toning category? Is it dead or alive? It’s on life support.

It’s not dead yet, but I get few requests for it.

New Balance

How have the habits of your customer base changed since the recession? Certainly, they’re spending less money. Multiple pairs are tougher to sell, but since we are more of a destination store, if we’ve got your size and it fits, you’re going to buy something.

Silver Spring, MD

Just how has the non-winter to date impacted your sales? People are sticking with what they have and cold-weather shoes aren’t selling.

What is the biggest challenge facing your business? One of the biggest is vendors selling their products online. I don’t think it’s fair to the merchants. We believe in those brands, bring in their merchandise and sell their goods—only for the brands to go online and cut their prices.

Are you expanding your footwear assortment this year? Yes, but we’re also going to give a stronger push to SAS and basics from Munro, Naot and Beautifeel. We’re going to play it safe with neutral colors and styles.

Is your customer base recovering, economically speaking? I think so. We do a mailer to our customer base each month and last year, in the springtime, we got at least 100 back from houses that had been abandoned. But since November, that has almost dropped to none. The recovery is real, and we don’t have as many job losses as we did last spring.

How have your customers changed since the recession? Before the recession they would come in and buy at least two pairs. We always tell them that it’s never good to wear one pair of shoes every single day. Now it’s ‘Let me try these out first,’ and ‘My budget won’t allow for two pairs, but next time I’m in the market I’ll definitely know which to buy.’ —Lyndsay McGregor

58 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_WhatsSelling_01.indd 58

2/20/12 10:22 AM

SPOTTING TREND

Earthen Wear Natural colors and textures ground tall boots.

Clockwise from top: Storm by Cougar rain boot; drawstring boot by Rocky; Rockport riding boot.

59

FW_03_12_trendspotting_03.indd 59

2/20/12 10:21 AM

ATHLETIC COMFORT OUTDOOR KIDS STREET WORK

Material Girls Chooka Street stretches beyond its rubber roots.

CHOOKA STREET, A division of Washington Shoe Company, has branched beyond its rubber rain boot roots with the introduction of two new fashion collections for Fall ’12. CEO Rob Moehring says the incorporation of leather and Neoprene into rubber-based constructions is nothing short of a technical breakthrough. For starters, teaching rubber manufacturers the production nuances needed to incorporate these materials involved months of training to get the line just right. But the finished collection, he notes, was more than worth the effort—for the Chooka brand extension as well as for women seeking warmth, comfort, protection and style in their footwear.

“Many women are wearing sheepskin

boots in the snow and cold, which are not durable enough for those inclement conditions. Or they are wearing chunky, clunky heavy snow boots and suffering the fashion consequences,” Moehring offers.

“Chooka Street brings style to warm and waterproof footwear.”

Specifically, Moehring describes Neoprene as a “wonder” material. It’s lightweight, comfortable, durable and flexible. In fact, Moehring says its properties were a wellkept secret being used in a range of products right before our eyes, such as iPad cases, computer covers and wet suits. “Neoprene is an amazing material,” he says, “and now it’s being discovered for its fashion qualities. It allows our boots to be lighter with a slim silhouette. They’re not only rain boots; they are rain, warmth and comfort boots.” Moehring notes that Neoprene comes in the form of a full sock inlaid into a rubber bottom, which is embossed and textured to provide an interesting aesthetic, while a leather overlay completes the look. “The boots are comfortable in subfreezing temperatures and are 100 percent waterproof,” he adds, noting the suggested retail price range is $120 to $170, which comes in significantly lower than much of the winter boot competition that can run $250 and up.

So far so good in terms of the reaction the collection has received at the recent round of trade shows, according to Moehring.

“We’ve had a terrific response,” he says. “And with everyone complaining about the lack of winter this year and many boot brands suffering as a result, our Neoprene story is not as weather-dependent.” In addition, Moehring believes any time one can introduce interesting, new designs, buyers will likely gravitate to them. “That’s why for years we have been selling tons of colorful and whimsical rubber rain boots in L.A. during the summer time,” he offers.

Along those lines, Chooka Street is also launching Skimmers, a collection of lightweight flats, in answer to the minimalist movement sweeping the footwear market right now. “Chooka Skimmers are superlightweight, lined with Neoprene, flexible and comfortable,” he notes. “And the rubber exterior absorbs the resolution on our prints extremely well—much better than the traditionally used canvas and leather materials.” Moehring adds the Skimmers (suggested retail is $70) are aimed at the Lululemon customer—women coming to and from yoga class seeking a lightweight but stylish slip-on. “This is really about a minimalist construction—lightweight and close to the ground, but with an amazing level of comfort and a fashionable spin,” he says. —Greg Dutter

Italian Lessons Renowned designer Gino Iozzi launches a new brand.

THE BRAND’S FULL name may be Ginoiozzi Milano, a new collection of weatherproof women’s shoes and boots debuting for Fall ’12, but the name many industry people may recognize most is Gino Iozzi, the respected designer of Aquatalia for nearly two decades. Iozzi, who also helped craft classic looks for K Shoes and Clarks over the years, has entered into a partnership with Canadian footwear veterans Steve and Ron Sedlbauer, the executives behind Cougar Footwear, where he will be responsible for designing and manufacturing Ginoiozzi Milano, and the Sedlbauers will manage sales and distribution out of their Burlington, Ontario, headquarters.

“We have been friends with Gino for years and have always admired his amazing talents,” says Steve Sedlbauer.

“Gino wanted to do a namesake label with the freedom to introduce a younger, more fashion-forward design aesthetic, and we

60 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_street_01.indd 60

2/20/12 10:18 AM

continued from page 23 that have helped Alegria gain traction at retail?

Good margins have been an important aspect to our success as well.

We also try to keep items in stock, which can seem like an impossible task with so many colors and materials in our collection. But we work very hard on maintaining our inventories to make sure we have shoes so retailers can keep selling.

Are your margins noticeably better than your competitors?

They are a little better. And, from the beginning, we have tried to establish a Minimum Advertised Price (MAP) policy for our retailers. We want the brand to have consistent value and we never want it discounted. While we understand that some of our shoes go on sale when closing out a season, we work really hard with our dealers to make sure that no one is starting a price war with Alegria. In the beginning, there was some resistance to the policy—some retailers felt that we were trying to tell them what to do. But after we explained that we were trying to maintain a certain level of value, which bodes well for their business too, they have since become receptive.

Plus, they are making money selling our shoes, so it helps with our argument to maintain those prices. We also try to be as flexible as possible. If a certain style is not working in their stores, we will take it back.

couldn’t be happier in making that vision become a reality.”

Ginoiozzi Milano is described as “high-fashion footwear with a young attitude.” While designed with women of all ages in mind, the brand’s appeal is to those with a youthful, sophisticated fashion sense and a passion for innovative design details. The collection’s immediate signifier, Sedlbauer notes, is the fine Italian leathers, including calf, patent and suede. From there, Iozzi incorporates high-shine, antique finishes and hand-brushed leathers that give the shoes his well-known artisan feel. “You don’t see this type of design elsewhere,” Sedlbauer notes, adding the line will be made in Italy. “It’s classic with an edgy twist that make this collection unique.” Adds Iozzi, “The great appeal of it is in the details. First, our customer will be drawn to the overall style, but it is the unique details that will linger in her memory.”

The brand’s incorporation of comfort and weather-resistant featutes should also come to the attention of consumers, Sedlbauer believes. He cites the tailored brogues that feature a superlightweight rubber compound outsole and a padded collar as one example. Other styles feature elasticized treatments to give the fashion a functional component. And—seeing as Iozzi is credited with being one of the first to introduce weather-resistant fashion footwear—the use of Dry, a lining to protect against cold temperatures and wet weather, should come as no surprise.

Sedlbauer adds that, at the brand’s premium price range of $225 to $575, such features and benefits serve as reassurance on the customer’s investment. “Women will recognize and appreciate these added-value features for an investment of this level,” he says. “This way she gets both beautiful design and the comfort of knowing the shoes will withstand the elements.”

The debut Ginoiozzi Milano collection consists of nine groupings, each with three to six styles of boots, booties and shoes. Sedlbauer says distribution is aimed at better-grade department stores like Nordstrom, Saks, Bergdorf ’s and Neiman Marcus, as well as select boutiques. He adds that the timing is ideal to introduce a fresh alternative to the market. “Coming out of a difficult winter in terms of boot sales, now is the time to be looking for new brands and styles,” he offers. “It’s better to do a little testing while you can as opposed to when testing is all you might be doing.” —G.D.

FW_03_QA_02.indd 61

What is your take on the comfort market that was once Euro-brand dominated?

That is not so much the case anymore. Ironically, it was one of the reasons we went with Euro sizing, because we believed it had a cache to it.

But the comfort market is changing. A lot of the recent innovations with regards to wellness and minimalism are forcing Euro comfort companies to break out of their traditional molds. Many have been reluctant to do so and are now viewed as a little old and boring as a result. That’s why I believe it’s important for us to always evolve.

It just doesn’t seem as easy for Euro comfort brands to succeed at premium price points.

It’s not as easy. I believe the Internet has played a big part in that shift. A little boutique on a corner somewhere can no longer get away with charging that high price just because they are the only ones who carry the brand.

What is Alegria’s price range?

We range from $100 to $180 for boots. It’s not even close to the Euro comfort range. We’ve always made sure our product came in at a more affordable price point. However, sourcing costs continue to rise dramatically out of China. It’s at a really crazy rate, to be honest. We have had to make a few adjustments. I think our clogs in the beginning were priced originally at $89.98 and now they go for $109.95. That’s a big increase, but it reflects our cost increases, which pretty much everyone has been experiencing.

Is there a breaking point to how much more you can pass on to your customers?

Well, I hope there is a limit to the sourcing price increases soon. There’s going to be a certain point that you will not be able to pass on those increases.

Your price increases are actually amazing in that they haven’t curtailed your sales. How many new brands, amid a recession, can pass on a $30 increase in their core style and still report 25 percent annual sales gains? Few could ever have gotten away with that.

I can’t argue with that; we’ve done quite well despite the increases. I think that’s a real testament to our product. We offer a lot of value for that price. I should note that as the business has grown, we have invested in resources and marketing to support the brand, which has contributed to a portion of that price increase.

How do you see China’s sourcing woes shaking out?

Right now, we are looking into different countries to get our shoes >63

2/21/12 12:34 PM

ATHLETIC COMFORT OUTDOOR KIDS

Model Behavior Josmo launches KensieGirl: big style trends for budding fashionistas.

STREET WORK

Making the Little Man Florsheim debuts a line for the mini-gentleman in every woman’s life.

THE OLD SAYING, “My father’s Florsheims,” may soon be adding “and my son’s too” to the phrase that has come to signify the brand’s standing among men. Florsheim, the 120-year-old classic shoemaker, is sizing down its highquality craftsmanship into a boys’ collection for Fall ’12.

Since its inception in 1892, Florsheim has focused on creating well-made shoes packed with tailored and refined styling, durability and comfort for the man who appreciates both fashion and function. Similarly, the Florsheim boys’ line will offer plenty of those features with inspiration stemming from the men’s line.

Yet while the boys’ silhouettes include traditional loafers, wingtips, chukka boots, saddle shoes and boat shoes, the collection also features many of the fun twists that trickled down from Florsheim’s 2010 collaboration with ever-colorful designer Duckie Brown, notes Brodie Tierney, lead designer for Florsheim. “While it’s basic, we really want to focus on the fun aspect, too,” adds Beverly Goldberg, vice president of Florsheim. “It’s really important for us to have color,” she says, pointing to details like bright blue and green detailing on saddle shoes and red chukka boots.

This mix of fashion and playful details is the reason Tierney believes Florsheim Kids will have both parents and sons alike gravitating toward the new line. “The mother picks out the saddle shoe or something more classic, but the kid also has the option to choose something besides black or brown,” he offers. “It’s a good blend of what kids are interested in and what mothers, who are picking this out, want.”

Goldberg also points to the shoes’ price range—$50 to $55 at retail—as another attractive selling aspect. “There seems to be a void in the market at this price point,” she says. “We think we have a quality-value that the customer embraces.”

Florsheim Kids will consist of several collections. First, the dress and uniform styles feature five silhouettes, such as moc toe oxfords and penny loafers. The Getaway category includes more casual plain toe oxfords and bike toe slip-ons, while the fashion package highlights four styles: a saddle shoe, a classic chukka, a casual wingtip and a buck oxford. In the future, Tierney plans to experiment with sandals and driving moccasins as well as new materials and a range of fresh colors to keep customers coming back for more. “We recognize that kids are also decision makers,” Goldberg says, “and we want them to want these shoes.” —Mary Avant

THIS FALL, GIRLS don’t have to be minimodels to look like they stepped straight off the catwalk. All they will need is a pair of KensieGirl shoes, says Sammy Esquenazi, vice president of Josmo Shoes, distributor of the new collection.

“This line is runway-inspired with a pretty yet edgy vibe,” he describes, adding, “The Kensie girl is creative, fun, playful, colorful, bold, unique and stylish.”

These little divas get most of their fashion cues from their mothers who, Esquenazi notes, “are into fashion yet laidback.” He adds: “She knows how to inspire her daughter, and she’s proud to let her Kensie girl mix and match her outfits.” Inspiration from mom is one reason why Esquenazi says the collection will draw on the adult fashion world, while incorporating kid-friendly design details like funky buckles and playful treatments. “For kids, you can give it that hip adult look, but it can also have some embroidery or small ornamentation that may not work for an adult,” he explains.

The line will feature sophisticated styles like high-fashion boots, casual yet cute flats and sassy wedges combined with comfort and quality to meet the needs of active young ladies. Specifically for fall, KensieGirl will feature details ranging from studs and metal ornaments to distressed materials and animal print linings. Several of the boots—which, like the rest of the collection, run from size youth 10 to girls 5—feature worn-in leathers, shearling linings and cozy fur trims.

KensieGirl’s suggested retail price range is $40 to $45, which Esquenazi believes is reasonable for the level of fashion being offered to the budgetconscious consumers the brand is targeting.

“We’re not going over the top price-wise,” he says, adding that the brand is already looking ahead to Spring ’13, with plans to incorporate still-thriving trends like color blocking and wedge heels. “It’s going to impact kids and inspire parents,” Esquenazi says of the collection. —M.A.

62 footwearplusmagazine.com • march 2012

FW_03_12_kids_01.indd 62

2/20/12 10:08 AM

continued from page 61 made. We have a men’s line that will be out later this year that may be made in Mexico. It would be at a $129 price point and up, which is in line with our Chinese-made products. But being based in California, I can receive the product much quicker—three days after it’s made.

That’s a very attractive aspect. Also, there are duty implications that work in our favor. Mainly, we are trying to find ways to reduce our costs. China is just getting too expensive. My father, who has been in this business a long time and knows the ins and outs of working in China, agrees that it’s getting ridiculous to do business there with the costs rising so rapidly.

What other countries are you looking into?

We’ve tried Vietnam before with our Peppergate brand, so we have a relationship there and might do some production. Basically, we are willing to get out of our production comfort zone and look at new areas. I’ve also heard about Ethiopia as a potential sourcing partner.

Actually, I have a pair of Oliberte shoes that were made there that I like. We’ll see how it shakes out. It could be a great opportunity for those countries. With steady jobs, they can earn money and begin to see their futures.

At the rate it’s going, production may wind up coming back to this country. Mexico is pretty close...

I would love to see shoes made in this country. Downtown Los Angeles, which is 30 minutes from our offices, has factories where they still make shoes. I would love to do it if the costs could be within reason.

Consumers might accept a $10 increase—but $70, maybe not.

What’s your take on the economy—recovering slowly or gasping?

I think the overall industry vibe is that the market is starting to bounce back. In particular, we hope our retailers have a better year. The last thing we want to see is a retailer struggle or go out of business. Even though our shoes may be selling, if they fail it’s one less customer of ours. That’s why it’s important for us to do what we can to help our retailers. Along those lines, we are putting a big emphasis on retail marketing with POS and co-op programs this year. Our shoes are performing well and we are starting to own that space, but where we are lacking is making that space our own and getting our brand message across further to customers. We want to put more emphasis on our brand so more consumers notice it which, in turn, should increase sales. By supporting our retailers that way, we hope that will translate into a better year for them.

Is it fair to say that the success to date is a dream come true?

Definitely. Four years ago, before Alegria, we weren’t the most exciting company, but we were very steady. The growth of this brand has changed all of that. It’s become a very exciting place to work.

What has been the most valuable business lesson you have learned from your father?

He has the foresight to see the market many years down the road, and that’s something I’m always trying to pick up on. I consider him a true visionary. He’s a real shoe guy, so every time he comes back from the factory he brings back a new and different concept that we talk about.

It’s always a great learning experience.

Do you know a good shoe when you see one now?

I’m learning that skill more and more. Before, I’d see a shoe on a shelf and say, ‘That looks really cool,’ and that’d be that. Now I bend the outsole and check the the entire shoe closely to see just how it’s made. It’s becoming second nature. So much so that my wife is finding it annoying to shop with me. I’m taking way too much time to get through a shoe store. •

FW_03_QA_02.indd 63

TwoTen Scholarships Funded solely by the footwear industry, TwoTen Footwear Foundation is committed to strengthening the shoe community with financial relief, scholarships, counseling support and information and referral services to shoepeople in need.

After more than 70 years, TwoTen still provides a safety net for individuals and families throughout our industry who are facing great challenges. TwoTen continues to mirror the current pace of the footwear industry it serves, with nimble and compassionate responsiveness to calls for help.

■ Since 1969, TwoTen has awarded $16 million to 7,000 students from the footwear industry ■ Annually, 450 students attend college with support from Two Ten Scholarships ■ Scholarships are available to footwear employees or their dependents ■ Scholarships are renewable for up to four years of study ■ Applicants or their parents must have 2 years’ employment in the footwear industry (1,000 hours over 2 years) ■ Applicant must be a U.S. citizen or eligible non-citizen ■ Applicants must be enrolled at an accredited two- or four-year college, university, vocationaltechnical school or nursing school ■ Applicants are evaluated on financial need, academic performance and personal promise

Applications are available in November: Web: http://www.twoten.org/what-we-do/scholarships.aspx Email: scholarship@twoten.org Phone: 1-800-346-3210 x1512

2/21/12 12:35 PM

LAST WORD

WALK THE TALK

Comfort Souls Ecco’s Walk in Style Award celebrates the work of inspiring female humanitarians that bring comfort to those in need.

SIX REMARKABLE WOMEN, three high-voltage fashion shows, one catchy pop star performance and a princess that surprised the crowd by wearing a chic pantsuit: It all made for a memorable evening in celebration of Ecco’s fifth annual Walk in Style Award presentation, which encapsulates the fashion, innovation and humanitarian facets of the Denmark-based comfort footwear brand.

Marking the start of Copenhagen Fashion Week (Feb. 1-5), the Ecco Walk In Style Award honored an inspiring group of women from an eclectic mix of backgrounds: a fashion designer, journalist, musician, film maker, entrepreneur and figure skater. Each woman was nominated for putting her talents and skills toward improving the lives of women and children around the world. “Women and children make up the majority of the most vulnerable populations,” says Ecco CEO Dieter Kasprzak.

“When it comes to helping them, education and medical aid make a real difference. That’s why we have chosen to make women and children the first priority in our efforts to make the world a more comfortable place to live in.”

This year, the award fielded more nominees than ever, representing six countries and six different charities. But only one, determined by a panel that included Ecco’s Head Designer Ejnar Truelsen and Ecco Facebook fans, was awarded $44,000 to donate to the charity of her choice.

Denmark’s HRH Crown Princess Mary presented Hadassah de Boer with the grand prize and glass stiletto award. Hadassah, a Dutch journalist inspired by her former-politician mother, was recognized for her cultural and investigative reporting that shed light on issues facing disadvantaged women and children. She plans to donate her winnings to Stitching Vluchteling, an organization that provides refugees in Africa, Latin America and Eastern Europe with humanitarian aid and social support.

The award ceremony took place after a fashion show highlighting three groupings of Ecco’s Fall/Winter ’12 collection, each styled and reinterpreted by different Danish designers. The “Aesthetic Being” collection keyed into the modern side of Ecco’s traditional silhouettes with slick patents, minimal color and androgynous looks. Vibrant, funky and sporty, the “Active Vibrations” group represented shoes for an adventurous lifestyle, while lush fur and crafted leather details brought Scandinavia’s wild and unruly landscape to footwear in the “Nordic Breathing” collection.

The line’s untamed nature was mimicked by a performance from Danish singer-songwriter Aura Dione, who wowed the crowd with her top hit “Geronimo.”

—Angela Velasquez Models take to the catwalk in high-fashion Ecco boots; Ecco CEO Dieter Kasprzak and Demark’s HRH Crown Princess Mary with Walk In Style winner Hadassah de Boer (center).

FW_03_12_Last_Word_01.indd 64

2/20/12 10:09 AM

FOP_COV3 COV3

2/20/12 3:19:38 PM

don’t forget to take them off!

™

www.aetrex.com

2/20/12 10:50:14 AM

FOP_COV4 COV4