Footwear Plus | March 2022

MARCH 2022 VOL 32 • ISSUE 3 • $10

HERE COMES THE FUZZ

PLUS AWARDS THE ENVELOPE, PLEASE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT DR. D’WAYNE EDWARDS THIS JUST IN LONDON CALLING SHOW STOPPERS IR AND TASM REVIEWS

THE LATEST SLIPPERS IN ALL THEIR COZY, COMFY, FUN, FURRY, FEEL-GOOD GLORY

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Comes Full Circle

INTRODUCING THE WORLD’S FIRST COMPOSTABLE AND RECYCLABLE MIDSOLE OrthoLite Cirql is a recyclable and industrially compostable foam created as an alternative to conventional footwear plastics. Why? With an estimated 20 billion pairs of shoes produced each year, we need intentional focus on end of life if we are to achieve true circularity in footwear. Powered by plants, Cirql is the solution. Welcome to the future of sustainable footwear.

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MARCH 2022 F E AT U R E S Plus Awards Profiles in Excellence 13 Lifetime Achievement Dr. D’Wayne Edwards 20 Company of the Year Birkenstock 22 Comfort Specialty Alan’s Shoes 24 Brand of the Year On 26 Men’s Comfort Ecco 28 Work Boots Timberland Pro 29 Outdoor Merrell 30 Athletic Hoka 31 Sustainability Twisted X 32 Women’s Comfort Taos 33 Insoles Aetrex 34 National Chain Nordstrom 34 Boots Dr. Martens 35 Slippers Ugg PA G E

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36 Ok Zoomers Men’s slippers suitable for zoom meetings and coffee runs.

By Ann Loynd Burton 40 The Right Fluff Furry, fuzzy, cozy slippers, oh my!

By Ann Loynd Burton

Flexus slipper booties with tread soles.

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Kathy Passero Editor at Large Ann Loynd Burton Fashion Editor Bernadette Starzee Contributing Editor Melodie Jeng Tim Regas Marcy Swingle Contributing Photographers ADVERTISING/ PRODUCTION Belinda Pina Director of Sales Noelle Heffernan Senior Account Manager Laurie Guptill Production Manager Kathy Wenzler Circulation Director Catherine Rosario Office Manager Mike Hoff Digital Director WAINSCOT MEDIA Carroll Dowden Chairman Mark Dowden President & CEO Steven J. Resnick Vice President & CFO OFFICES

On cover: all-over plush sandals by Alegria.

Photography by Trevett McCandliss; Styling by Nancy Campbell; Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; model: Cameron Newbill/Supreme Model Management; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/ Ray Brown Pro.

D E PA RT M E N T S 4 Editor’s Note 6 This Just In: London 8 Scene & Heard 52 Upclose Comfort 54 Shoe Salon 56 Last Shot

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One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 circulation@9Threads.com

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Wainscot Media, One Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ, 07656. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage paid at Mahwah, NJ, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48 in the U.S. Rates outside the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2008 by Wainscot Media. Printed in the United States.

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E D I TOR’S NOT E

Legacy Matters

star power worn by Carmelo Anthony, Derek Jeter and Roy Jones, Jr. The way he convinced Skechers CEO Robert Greenberg, then CEO of LA Gear, to give him his first big break would make a terrific movie scene. So would Edwards receiving a signed version of the shoe he designed for Roy Jones, Jr.’s title bout reading “new heavyweight champion”—the day before Jones’s fight.

OVER THE PAST quarter century, I’ve had the Edwards decided to walk away from his dream job to launch a design pleasure of featuring thousands of people in these academy that gives people of color a chance—for free—to fulfill their pages. Each of them is unique, though they share sneaker designer dreams too. Over the past decade, the academy has the common trait of involvement in the shoe served as a pipeline of new talent, while also addressing the industry’s business. Designers, retailers, manufacturers, lack of diversity. Edwards is now leading the charge to open PLC in reps, marketers, middlemen, spokespeople, suppliers, influencers, Detroit, which will eventually offer a full range of design programs—on a hustlers, hucksters…many kinds of people make up our dynamic new campus, to boot. DBI, parent company of DSW, has also partnered industry. They all come from somewhere and got here somehow. with PLC to open the first ever Black-owned U.S. factory that will see They all have stories. graduates design shoes sold exclusively in its stores. It reads like a Best Our industry is quite diverse in that regard. People hail from around the Oscar contender. And there are more great scenes ahead. world. Their paths into this business are just as diverse. There are those Edwards’ industry legacy is already remarkable. Until a movie about who represent the latest generation of families with deep shoe legacies. his life comes out, I highly recommend They were born into this business and their reading the article in this issue. It is one veins seem made of shoe leather. Others of the most inspiring shoepeople stories follow a less linear but still logical path into I’ve had the pleasure to write. Edwards the industry—like architects who go on to Edwards’ industry could have ridden off into the sunset as become shoe designers. Pierre Cardin, Tom legacy is already remarkable. one of the great sneaker designers of all Ford and Virgil Abloh, to cite a few. time. Instead, he is defying the odds again, Then there are those who come to our Until a movie about creating a completely different legacy that industry out of left field. For example, the his life comes out, I highly pays it forward on an industry-altering couple who founded New England Loom (p. scale. He is one of a kind.

52). What started a few years ago as a vintage recommend reading the Speaking of legacy, it is with sadness rug boutique is entering the wholesale shoe that I note the passing of Thomas Hudson, business this fall with its “no two mules are article in this issue.

Jr., the founder of Footwear Plus. Some of alike” collection made from rug remnants. you may remember “Tommy” from when Lyndsay and Josh Graziano’s path, through he owned the publication, 1990 to 2005. a partnership with a Turkish factory, is It was his vision to introduce a colorful, refreshingly unexpected. Welcome. fashion-focused magazine that mirrored the beauty of our industry. It Then there’s the made-for-Hollywood story of Dr. D’Wayne Edwards, was a completely fresh concept at the time—one that set a new editorial legendary sneaker designer, founder of the Pensole Design Academy standard for our industry and all trade publications. and now president of the new Pensole Lewis College of Business & I worked for Tommy for 12 years and spent a decade as editor-in-chief Design (PLC). He is the latest recipient of our Plus Award for Lifeof the magazine. A deep-sea fisherman at heart, he let me chart my own time Achievement (p. 13). Edwards’ life story is truly exceptional. As a course. And while such freedom surely had risks, especially for a young Black kid growing up in the murder capital of America, his dream of editor, he always encouraged me to cast a wide net and to speak my mind. becoming a sneaker designer seemed impossible. But he reached the If I missed the mark, he never criticized. He just said, “Try again.” Being pinnacle of brands at the top sneaker company in the world. His journey given the trust, support and freedom to create is rare. It helped me grow there reads like a movie script. Edwards, who couldn’t afford college, as an editor and a writer. It’s the mark of a good publisher. Also, Tommy has blazed a trail for others like him to follow. During his decade-long didn’t have a mean bone in his body. That’s a good legacy to have, too. reign as Design Director for Jordan Brand he designed iconic styles You’ve seen your birth, your life and death; you might recall all of the rest. Did you have a good world when you died? Enough to base a movie on? —Jim Morrison

Greg Dutter

Editorial Director

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WOMENS : WALLABEE CUP / YELLOW NUBUCK

MENS : WEAVER / MAPLE SUEDE

@CLARKSORIGINALS

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THIS JUST IN

Punk Up the Volume!

London Fashion Week sees women rock bold, edgy looks. Photography by Melodie Jeng

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SCENE & HEARD

Industry Reconnects in Atlanta workshoes.com site. “We have to connect to work brands for dropship YOU COULD FEEL the energy the minute entering the Cobb Galleria arrangements,” he says, adding that Tip Top’s online business is nearing Centre, longtime home of The Atlanta Shoe Market (TASM), held 50 percent of total sales. “We think about our inventory much differently last month. The crowd noise, the narrower aisles to squeeze in more as a whole, because that customer comes from all over the country.” exhibitors and the buyers and wholesalers who filled them—all happily On that note, Sue Orischak, owner of Foot Solutions in Scottsdale, AZ, reconnecting after two years of zoom meetings and fits and starts at made the cross-country trek to meet with her many niche vendors. In parin-person events. It felt like a big family reunion, and many in attenticular, she was shopping several categories that are becoming important dance said the show marked the first time their whole teams had come as the pandemic (hopefully) retreats. “The need for comfortable dress together in two years. shoes for all the special occasions that were postponed,” she says is one, “We had 55 appointments, whereas we usually book 35 to 40 at this noting that the loss of Beautifeel has left a void that many vendors are show,” says Kevin Bosco, president of Bos. & Co., makers of a namesake scrambling to fill. “Now that customers have spent the past two years in brand, Fly London, Asportuguesas and Softinos. “And they’re coming sneakers and slippers, there’s little or no desire for uncomfortable dress more so from the Midwest and the Northeast, who used to not come shoes.” The other ongoing trend is athleisure, but now with interesting here.” In addition to the broader geographical reach, Bosco reports that outsole treatments, zippers and unexpected pops of color. “The zippers TASM drew buyers beyond its sit-and-fit base. The strong reaction to its are perfect for customers ready to travel again, and almost everyone is trendier collections in Fly London and Bos & Co. served as proof. “It was ready to travel the world or just nearby to see a good show all around; we’re definitely pleased friends and family,” she says. with the response to all our lines,” he says. “Our TASM, in that way, is no different. Show retail customers are coming off a very good year, Director Laura O’Brien, who is marking her 40th and they were looking to buy.” anniversary as head hostess this fall, believes that Bill Langrell, COO of Taos, concurs on good vibe family atmosphere has been key to its long-running and strong traffic. “Our appointment schedule was success. “The industry wants to come to Atlanta full, but what I didn’t anticipate was the amount because it’s affordable and it’s easy,” she says, notof walk-ins we received,” he says. “We didn’t even ing the floor plan exceeded the February 2019 know they were coming, and they came from all edition, coming in at more than 800 exhibitors over the place.” Even better was the amount of new and 1,500-plus brands. (Last August saw 500 account interest. “Generally, we’re not receptive exhibitors.) That included the return of Ugg, Frye to that much, but we had a couple of compelling and Camuto Group leasing large store spaces meetings that we’re definitely going to do,” he says, Laura O’Brien, show director, TASM in the mall area. Buyer attendance was also up crediting the interest to Taos’ growing success. markedly, particularly from the Midwest, West “We know our customer perfectly now, and we Coast and internationally. “It was a huge bump in attendance overall,” just keep building off that,” Langrell explains, adding that the effort now O’Brien reports. “Our opening night party was packed, and people were is to get a little younger. “We’re moving out of some core basic stuff and just glad to be back together.” into a bit more fashion, but nothing too jarring. We move slow, which is “This is the only national show now,” says Daniel Butler of Lines of a blessing and a curse. We don’t make big mistakes, but sometimes we Denmark, distributors of Ilse Jacobsen and Rollie, among others. “The take the long way to get their safely.” show is busting at the seams and now attended by all the national chains.

Joe Pickett, co-owner of Casitas Footwear, distributors of Wonders, Plus, it’s very affordable for exhibitors.” Butler adds, “Our traffic was great.

Toni Pons and Onfoot, attests to TASM’s broader buyer base. The success I have no complaints.” Langrell agrees on the affordability of TASM. of Wonders, in particular, bore that out. “The brand has evolved from “Atlanta, per dollar, has always been the best show for Taos, whereas the being more classic comfort looks to more sport-inspired, and some of our math to justifying the cost of Vegas was always tough,” he says. boots now feature big volume soles that are lightweight,” he says. “Our Lastly, TASM is no longer on the outskirts of town. Notably, the new Southeast rep has developed a strong business with better-grade fashion Atlanta Braves stadium and The Battery—with its many restaurants, bars comfort retailers, and the response to Wonders was fabulous.” Further and shops—are a walk from the Cobb Galleria Centre. “You don’t have evidence of TASM serving as more of a national show, Pickett adds, was to leave the area for entertainment,” O’Brien says, citing consistency as the success of this fall market. “Historically, fall hasn’t been as big as the another key aspect of the show’s success. “Our attendees know what to spring market here, because the Southeast traditionally isn’t a big boot expect: a show that’s easy to work and just works” she says. “It’s a relaxing, market. But this show been really good for all our lines.” family environment—we’ve never wanted the hoopla of Vegas.”

Danny Wasserman of Tip Top Shoes in New York, who made the rounds Orischak, for one, is on the TASM train. “I appreciate the overall ease with his son and daughter (Lester and Margot), said TASM had everything and convenience of the Cobb Galleria Centre,” she says. “The attached they were looking for—and then some. “There are more vendors here, hotels make life easy, and there are many restaurants in proximity. I look and it’s easier to get here,” he says. Specifically, Wasserman was on the forward to returning in August. This is clearly the rising national shoe hunt for Jesus-like flat sandals—a trend he expects to be big this summer. show for so many awesome reasons.”

Work brands were also on the agenda as the company is relaunching its

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SCENE & HEARD

IR Show Debut a Success collection of comfort chains including Pegasus Footwear in New York, DESPITE HEADWINDS SUCH as a new show, a new destination and Alan’s Shoes in Arizona and Benjamin Lovell in Pennsylvania, says IR the Covid-19 Omicron variant, the first-ever Innovative Retail (IR) Show met its objectives. “We saw most of our important partners and reconin San Diego last month hit the ground running. Those in attendance at nected with some from the past, as well,” he reports. “We even found a the San Diego Convention Center reported a resounding success. new brand. And we finalized some marketing objectives and mingled “My sales team was jammed almost back-to-back the entire show,” with industry friends.” reports David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, citing the earlier Meeting objectives is music to IR Show Director Gary Hauss’ ears. The timing (Feb. 1-3) as key. “It’s in our futures booking window, which made fact that many attendees reported an old WSA vibe was a cherry on top. these true order writing sessions, so the time was highly productive. Show “There’s always been a need to maintain a West Coast show presence,” he dates that fall beyond our order season become social events, and that’s says, noting that the Atlanta show served as inspiration. “They’ve created ok, but for the time and energy, it’s far more productive when a show can a great show, and their attendance proves that people are ready to go back meet the schedule of key brands.” to shows. We hope that between Atlanta and IR, we can give our industry “IR was excellent for Ara,” reports Sam Spears, president of the German the much needed in-person shows.” brand’s North American division. “The traffic was very good—we had many On that note, Hauss believes IR’s under one roof, affordable, writing fixed appointments and several unexpected stop-ins.” Spears adds that format were other factors contributing to its success. “Many brands reported the buyer attendance was impressive. “We met with high-quality retailers that more retailers wrote more orders than any other show of late,” he says, from the East Coast, Midwest and West Coast. The retailers represented adding that goal going forward is for IR to were the best of the best.” be a place for everyone to reconvene every That included Tradehome Shoes, the six months to keep the industry moving 120-plus store chain headquartered in forward. “The pandemic has made us Minnesota. Justin Kehrwald, president all realize the importance of going back and CEO, says IR delivered. “The show to the basics,” he says. “You don’t have gave us an opportunity to see some brands to be the biggest, you just have to be the that may not have been on our proverbial best. Our goal is to grow the show, but radar and to see physical samples from maintain our family feel. We encourage many brands that we only got to see community over competition.” virtually,” he says. “Additionally, with Most attendees believe San Diego is the early deadlines presented to us this a key ingredient to IR’s recipe—startyear, IR gave us the chance to see some ing with the fact that it’s not Las Vegas. running changes to many of our accounts’ “San Diego is easy to get to from anywhere, product lines and to shore up any posand the airport is only 10 minutes from sible gaps that we believed we had in our the convention center,” Hauss says. “The assortment.” Then there was the allure Birkenstock, like many booths, were booked back-toweather is ideal year-round, there are a of San Diego, Kehrwald adds. “Being a back with appointments throughout the IR Show. ton of restaurants and hotels in walking Twin Cities-based company, it was nice to distance to the convention center and the city has a laidback feel—very thaw out for a few days,” he says. “The airport is simple to fly in and out different from The Strip or the streets of New York.” Hauss, a retailer of, the convention center and hotels are nearby and the Gaslamp District of 40-plus years, knows what he speaks of when it comes to walking has everything you need as far and restaurants and entertainment. Also, trade shows. “We want to be sure our vendors are getting more bang IR was set up to allow vendors and retailers to get their work done but for their buck and that retailers support their brands as well as be on also enjoy the camaraderie.” the lookout for the next big thing,” he says.

Rich Rask, president of Rieker Shoe Corp., says IR hit on exactly what Kahan, a former WSA Show director from a past life, agrees that many wholesalers are looking for: a strong regional show. “Regional shows San Diego is a key draw. “Fantastic weather, easy travel location and are more focused, easier to work and easier to attend for both retailers no show buses, taxi lines or walking through casinos,” he says. “IR is a and sales teams,” he says. “We’ll definitely be back this August.” simple set-up, easy to work, lower costs and better timing.” Kahan adds, Adam Beck, president of Beck’s Shoes, a 21-store comfort and work chain “We don’t need the bells and whistles of shows past. All a show has to in seven western states, concurs on the ease of attending IR. “Everything do is offer a great venue that draws traffic so retailers can wok current was walkable—food, entertainment, convention center,” he says. “And the vendors and be able to shop potential new ones.” airport is close, which is a huge plus!” As for the business of buying, Beck It’s why Spears says Ara will be returning to IR in August. “One hunsays the show delivered. “We saw all the vendors, as well as many that we dred percent yes we’ll be back, because of the quality of the retailers and didn’t plan on,” he says. “A lot of people said it reminded them of the old the business we conducted,” he says. “And the venue couldn’t have been WSA show, and I’d agree. I feel Atlanta (Shoe Market) and IR are going easier—from parking to schlepping samples to booth setup to tear-down… to be the future of shows.” this is how a show should be run.”

John Holden, director of merchandising for Sole Provisions, an 18-store

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE

23 The

rd

Annual Plus Awards R E C O G N I Z I N G O U T S TA N D I N G A C H I E V E M E N T I N D E S I G N A N D R E TA I L .

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT

Defying the Odds Dr. D’Wayne Edwards, legendary sneaker designer, founder of the Pensole Design Academy and now president of the new Pensole Lewis College of Business & Design, has broken down barriers and blazed a trail every step of his career— while always sporting the freshest kicks! By Greg Dutter begin creating their own sneaker designer legacies.

DR. D’WAYNE EDWARDS is a statistical anomaly How’s that for a Hollywood ending? of Powerball proportions. For starters, the odds of But Edwards’ incredible career story is still unfoldsurviving past his 18th birthday in what was then ing. The latest chapter will have far-reaching and the murder capital of America—Inglewood, CA in lasting impacts in the worlds of footwear, apparel, the ’80s —were against him. His odds of living to see packaging and furniture design. That’s because 25 decreased—while the odds of winding up in jail Edwards’ Portland, OR-based Pensole Design increased—with each passing year. The odds of attendAcademy decided to go to college. Last fall, Edwards, ing college (he didn’t), let alone becoming a president along with co-founding partners the Gilbert Family of one (he is) were astronomically low. The odds that Foundation and Target, petitioned Michigan to Edwards would become one of three sneaker designers become the newly formed Pensole Lewis College in history to have at least one of their designs on sale of Business & Design (PLC) in partnership with at Foot Locker for 30 years running were longer than the College for Creative Studies (CCS). In doing getting struck by lightning on a sunny day. Edwards, a so, the Detroit-based institution has reopened the McDonald’s employee during his teen years, probably state’s sole HBCU (Historically Black Colleges and had better odds of winning its Monopoly game (reportUniversities) with a new name and vision. The edly one in 451,822,158) than of achieving all that he school, the first HBCU to focus on design, will offer has accomplished in his remarkable career. free tuition to a majority of students, supporting Edwards’ career story reads like a Hollywood script. people of color who are creatives, designers, engiPoor kid lives out his childhood dreams to become neers and business leaders. The school is also the head sneaker designer for the pinnacle of athletic Dr. D’Wayne Edwards first mothballed HBCU in the country to officially brands (Jordan) through determination, talent, pasreopen. Plans include building a new campus and sion and a dash of sneaker fate—thanks to LA Gear expanding degree programs. and Skechers Founder Robert Greenberg, who gives him his big break. (More There’s more. Last month, DBI, parent company of DSW, announced it is on that later.) Hip hop legends Biggie Smalls, Tupac Shakur and Snoop Dogg partnering with PLC on the opening of JEMS by Pensole, the first Black-owned wear his creations, as do sports heroes Derek Jeter, Carmelo Anthony and Roy U.S. footwear factory. The $2 million investment will produce shoes designed Jones, Jr. Edwards even designs the equestrian boot worn during a U.S. gold

by PLC graduates and will be sold exclusively at DSW. medal performance at the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing.

All this because a poor kid in Inglewood absolutely loved sneakers. That’s But that’s just part one of this epic, sneaker-laced biography. The second half where Edwards’ story begins—one truly made for Hollywood. of Edwards’ career is a pay it back/pay it forward story sure to keep audiences riveted. Once again, it defies all odds as it sets in motion a transformation of the SCENE 1: THE ORIGINAL SNEAKERHEAD entire footwear and design industries. In this heroic true tale, Edwards walks All Edwards ever dreamed about as a kid was to become a sneaker away from his 10-year reign as Design Director of Jordan Brand to launch an designer. He started sketching kicks in middle school and, by high academy aimed at teaching the art of sneaker design to people of color—for school, he was stopping into local hardware and shoe repair shops free. His Pensole Design Academy quickly gains the support of leading sneaker regularly to pick up the early tools of his trade to customize his sneakers—an companies like Adidas, New Balance and Nike, which fund bootcamp-like, exacto knife, duct tape and dye. Soon he was customizing kicks for his baskettwo-week design programs as a way to bring long-overdue diversity to their ball teammates and other kids at school. “That became my little side hustle, workforces. Soon after, art schools reach out to partner with Pensole. Edwards, but it really started because I had to be different than everybody else,” he says. who couldn’t afford to attend college, soon finds himself leading classes at “I still have the same problem to this day: My fear is walking into a room and the top product design school in the country (ArtCenter College of Design in someone has the same pair of shoes on as I do.”

Pasadena, CA), the number-one fashion institution (New York’s Parsons School At age 17, Edwards even won a sneaker design competition sponsored by of Design), and one of the world’s top engineering schools (Massachusetts Reebok—only to be told to come back in four years after he earned a design Institute of Technology). Along the way, a steady stream of Pensole graduates

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT degree. (It was a slight Edwards vowed he would—and did—avenge.) But college was out of reach financially. Worse, Edwards’ high school guidance counselor tried to shoot down his dreams before they even got off the ground, telling him: “No Black kid from Inglewood is ever going to become a footwear designer.”

Edwards refused to listen.

“I actually saw her six years into my career, in front of Skechers offices in Manhattan Beach,” he recalls. “She asked what I was doing and I said, ‘What you told me I wasn’t going to do.’” Edwards, though, understood what she meant by her statement. “She was trying to tell me to just get out of the city alive,” he says.

“She felt that if I could get into the military, I could be safe, or if I could find a more realistic job, I wouldn’t get caught up in the streets and end up where some of my friends did, which was in the ground or in jail.” He considers her advice a blessing. “I needed that extra motivation to prove her wrong.”

Edwards’ high school actually played a huge role in living out his sneaker designer dreams. During freshman year he was kicked out of art class—he wanted to draw sneakers, not fruit—and, as “punishment,” put into a drafting class. That led to an off-campus program, beginning his junior year, that taught interior design. Edwards took an hour-long bus ride to attend the class, which is where he was exposed to another world. “Once I got introduced to design, I started designing shoes instead of just drawing someone else’s.” The last sneaker Edwards drew in high school was his version of what he thought the Air Jordan 2 should look like, which came out in ’88, the year he graduated from high school. Little did Edwards know then that, in a little over 10 years, he would become Design Director of Jordan Brand.

SCENE 2: GAME ON! Fate plays a leading role in Edwards’ story. His big break comes by chance after landing a job at a temp agency. Edwards’ coworker didn’t want to file papers at LA Gear, so they sent Edwards instead.

“If he’d gone, my whole life would have been completely different,” he says.

Edwards was thrilled just to be inside a sneaker company. He peppered the designers with questions, asking how he might get a job like theirs. They all told him he needed a college degree. Then Edwards took matters into his own hands, through LA Gear’s suggestion boxes. Ever the entrepreneur, he put sneaker sketches drawn on 3x5 index cards in the box every morning before he went to work in the mailroom for sixth months—180 shoes! “That was my Instagram,” Edwards says. “I knew somebody would see it, and I hoped at some point they’d show it to the design department and they’d buy it from me.”

Then one day Edwards heard his name over the intercom, with an order to report to the president’s office. “I’m like, damn, did I mess up that bad at filing papers that Robert Greenberg wants to fire me personally?” He walked in slowly and saw a bunch of his design cards splayed out on Greenberg’s desk.

He braced for the CEO to lower the boom. Instead Greenberg said, “So, I hear you’re the person putting all these sketches in my boxes.” Edwards apologized profusely and said he just loved drawing sneakers. After a few get-to-know-

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• OFF THE CUFF What are you reading? I’m listening to the audio book Black Detroit. I’m also watching a lot of documentaries, like The United States of Detroit. As we prepare our move, I’m trying to understand the city’s heritage and what Pensole could do to add to its rich history.

What is your favorite hometown memory? Those of the friends on my block, who I’m still friends with to this day, and how we’d break out football games in the street, which seemed so much bigger as

you questions, Greenberg asked, “If I offered you a job, would you accept it?”

Edwards’ answer was an unequivocal yes!

“Robert offered me my first professional footwear design job right after my 19th birthday,” he says.

Greenberg, who has decades of experience building and leading multi-billion athletic footwear companies, knows talent when he sees it. He also spotted two qualities in Edwards that warranted giving the kid his big break: “Ambition and passion,” Greenberg says. “D’Wayne just wanted so badly to be a designer.”

Edwards is eternally grateful to Greenberg, whom he considers his first mentor. “I learned my whole existence as a business person from just watching him,” he says, recalling how he tried to beat Greenberg into work. “It took me four tries–and it was 5 a.m.—in order to beat him there!” Edwards became a student of Greenberg’s work style. “Robert had a routine of consuming knowledge before the day started and setting a to do list by speaking into this handheld recorder,” Edwards recalls. “For 33 years since, I’ve written a do list every day and read to get some knowledge. I’ve added meditation into the process, but everything I learned from Robert back in the early ’90s I still do today.”

Greenberg’s instincts were spot-on. Edwards hit the ground running at LA Gear. And when Greenberg left to launch Skechers, Edwards soon followed—but not before a year-long stint designing shoes for the Black-owned MVP Products in Detroit. “It was the first time I ever saw snow! I was 24 years old!” recalls Edwards of the learning experience. “I met some great designer friends, and I’d watch Eminem and D12 perform at my friends’ stores on Saturday nights before they became famous.”

Edwards kept in contact with Greenberg and told him about a growing streetwear apparel movement happening in L.A. with brands like Cross Colors and Karl Kanai. The brands were going to be big, he told his friend/mentor, and if they ever decided to do shoes, Skechers should think about getting in on the trend. Greenberg listened and, after signing the licensing deals for both brands, he recruited Edwards as head designer. Soon after, Edwards’ designs donned the feet of hip hop royalty—Tupac, Biggy, Snoop, Dr. Dre and Nas. “Those were not paid endorsements,” he says with pride. “It was just crazy to think these legends of hip hop were wearing my shoes.”

Edwards had officially arrived. Over the next few years, he designed for Cross Colors and Karl Kanai and, when those license deals were not renewed, Greenberg gave him the green light to launch his own brand, Sity. “I was traveling all over the world and noticed how sneakers were different in other countries, and I wanted to bring back some of that style to the kids in the ’hood,” he says.

Sity’s first collection sold out, and in 2000 an industry publication ranked the brand second to watch out for behind Jordan. Pretty good company—and another sign of things to come.

Sity plans were moving forward, but then Skechers began transitioning to going public. The decision to divest of new projects became paramount, and Sity was one of the casualties. “Leaving Skechers was hard,” Edwards says. It was hard for Greenberg too, but he knew he had made a positive impact on

That’s because of where I come from.

That quote is how I approach everything.

Whatever cards I’m dealt…I’m going to make it work.

because I don’t think he understood what he was doing by giving it away for free.

Imagine if you just got a penny for every minute of use. My goodness!

What was the best business advice you’ve ever received? “Take five minutes off and get back to work.” (Skechers CEO) Robert Greenberg, my first mentor, told me that after I did something well.

And I’ve been wired that way ever since.

I digest it, cool and then it’s on to the next project.

Who is your most coveted dinner guest? Personally, my two brothers and my mother, who passed when I was a teenager. I would give up an awful, awful lot to have dinner with them all.

Professionally, it would be Bruce Lee, Leonardo Da Vinci and Bill Gates.

What might people be surprised to know about you? I’m an introvert. Like, I was good with 2020. (Laughs.) My life’s work forces me to talk. But if I didn’t have to talk, I wouldn’t. I let my work speak for itself.

What is your motto? A Bruce Lee quote that I have on my signature: “To hell with circumstances, I create opportunity.”

If you could invent anything, what would it be? I’d want to be Tim Berners Lee, who invented the world wide web,

a kid. Those memories and the ones of stealing fruit from our neighbors’ trees are my favorite.

What are five words that best describe your life? Dream. Inversions (things that I thought were bad turned out to be amazing). Grateful. Blessed. Underdog.

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Congratulations to Dr. D’Wayne Edwards – visionary leader, passionate designer, and deserving Footwear Plus Lifetime Achievement Award recipient. We’re so proud to partner with you and PENSOLE on the DiverCity x Design program, giving the next generation of designers the opportunity to follow your path and ‘dream bigger.’

Thank you for inspiring us all to move the world forward.

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT Edwards’ life. “Nothing feels better than respect,” he says. “My passion is discovering talent in people and helping them grow and prosper.”

SCENE 3: ATOP THE SNEAKER MOUNTAIN Edwards, fresh off of Sity, needed a new job. That’s when a colleague tipped him off that Nike was looking for someone to help them compete with Timberland in the outdoor space. The friend connected Edwards with Drew Greer, an “industry legend” who Edwards says prepped him for the interview. Edwards will never forget that first day at the Beaverton headquarters. “It’s every sneakerhead’s Wally World,” he says. “I was in awe; I’d never even been to Oregon.” Two weeks later, Nike ACG offered him a job. As far as he was concerned, it was a daily pass to the world’s greatest sneaker park.

Nike ACG was located in the Jerry Rice building, one floor below Jordan Brand. “I was this close to Jordan, so I’d sneak upstairs just to smell what the air was like,” Edwards confesses. Design director Bob Mervar didn’t mind. One day Mervar asked Edwards if he would like to “work on some stuff.” Edwards jumped at the chance for another side hustle. Within a year, a full-time spot opened and Edwards got the job. The following year, Mervar left for another category and Edwards assumed the role of design director. He had to pinch himself—often.

“The most memorable aspect of the experience, besides meeting Michael Jordan, was my second project, which was a redesign of the Air Jordan 2,” Edwards remembers. “That was the last shoe I drew in high school. So 12 years later that was a full-circle moment that told me this is where I was meant to be.”

Edwards held court over Jordan Brand designs for the next decade. At the beginning, it was a $275 million business; 10 years later, it had zoomed to $1.3 billion. “It was an amazing ride,” he says. “We worked extremely hard.

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But everybody there just loved the brand so much that we didn’t know we were killing ourselves.”

Some memorable designs of Edwards’ Jordan Brand era include gold medalwinning shoes designed for Carmelo Anthony, University of North Carolina’s two NCAA championship teams, NBA star Ray Allen and Roy Jones Jr., who won several belts in Edwards’-designed shoes, including the heavyweight championship in 2003. “He actually signed a half pair for me on the day before as the ‘new heavyweight champion,’” Edwards says. “That was pretty cool.”

Edwards says his designs are all his children; there are no favorites. “I’ve always had the mindset that if I picked a favorite, whatever I did next wouldn’t be good enough.” He enjoyed pushing the envelope each season. He loved his Nike tenure, but the work was grueling and, toward the end of his decade, he wanted to give back to young designers like himself—kids who needed their big break. He didn’t want to be known only for his designs. When first visiting Nike, “I was introduced to people by their name and the shoe they designed,” he recalls. “I understood the reference, but I didn’t like it.”

Around this time, the sneaker game went digital with forums like Nike Talk, Nice Kicks and ConceptsKicks. Kids often posted their sketches. A few even emailed them directly to Edwards. “These kids were hungry to design sneakers for a living,” he says. “They would love to do what I’m doing, so I never took my job for granted.” One such-up-and-comer was Jason Petrie, whom Edwards communicated with online; Petrie went on to design all the Lebron James styles for 10 years. He later thanked Edwards for the free mentoring. That’s when Edwards started devoting more attention to mentoring his interns—and that made him rethink his industry legacy.

“Even though Spike says ‘It’s gotta be the shoes,’ I didn’t want it to be that,” he says with a laugh. “Mentoring drove me to think about things differently.”

In 2008, Edwards created the Nike design competition Future Sole. At the time, the company employed only six Black footwear designers. Nike wanted

Monday, June 6 pier sixty, NYC For sponsorship opportunities contact trawson@twoten.org

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WE CELEBRATE

ACTIONS

SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS.

DR. D’WAYNE EDWARDS JonesAndVining.com

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT to address its diversity problem. But how? Edwards came up with the idea of a competition to level the playing field for candidates who didn’t necessarily have a degree. Since he was designing shoes for Carmelo Anthony at the time, he asked him to be the face of the program. He also asked Lisa Leslie, a fellow native of Inglewood, to be the face for women hopefuls.

“I wanted the kids to see famous athletes who love sneakers, just like they do, encouraging them to be designers,” he says. The first year 800 kids entered the contest. The next year it was 10,000, followed by 250,000 and close to 900,000 in the fourth year. The 12 winners from those competitions are all professional designers today. The program worked. “It also showed that this is real—a lot of kids want to be sneaker designers, but they had no path,” Edwards says. “This gave me a glimpse into what could be possible.”

Edwards attributes Pensole’s success to its strong ROI. “Job placement was my ROI,” he explains. It was a win for all parties. “The brands made the investment in the students that they couldn’t find in traditional ways, and we taught them exactly the way they would work, so our kids didn’t need as much break-in time as those graduating from traditional schools.”

One such satisfied graduate is Aric Armon, footwear designer for U.S. Football at Adidas. The word that first comes to his mind when thinking of Edwards is mentorship. “The lessons I learned from him have influenced my life in profound ways, both professionally and personally,” Armon says. “He told us right from the beginning that it was our duty to take what we learned and pass it along. In that way, D’Wayne is a mentor to mentors, and his impact continues to exponentially grow with every new generation of talent.”

Jordan Johnson, associate product manager and designer for New Balance, says Pensole is the reason he is where he is today. “The ample networking opportunities combined with the wealth of knowledge provided by D’Wayne and the Pensole staff are priceless,” he says. “It is truly an experience that cannot be replicated anywhere else.” Johnson learned everything there is to know about the process of creating a product the “D’Wayne Way.” Those tenets include: Always design for a purpose, as “The world doesn’t need more shoes”; solve problems; create product for specific consumers; and integrate true storytelling into the product. “This formula always creates the best product,” Johnson says.

SCENE 4: AN EDUCATOR IS BORN Coming off the success of Future Sole, Edwards took an eightweek sabbatical. He thought about the kids he had mentored who had gone on to become successful designers. Realizing he drew the greatest professional satisfaction from their achievements, he decided on a career change.

“I wanted to give it all back, because those kids are just like me when I was a 17-year-old in Inglewood trying to figure out life. That’s what I want to be remembered by,” Edwards says, noting that The Rules of the Red Rubber Ball, SCENE 5: COLLEGE BOUND written by a former Nike exec, helped crystalize his desire. “It’s about finding The PLC deal came together quickly, starting in mid 2020. Pensole your true passion, and I realized my red rubber ball is a yellow No. 2 pencil, had been growing steadily—Edwards was looking for a bigger because it designed my life. Without that object—one that I use to this day—I campus site in Portland—but the murder of George Floyd changed wouldn’t have done anything that I’ve done for the last 33 years. That’s why everything. Corporations started reassessing their investment in Black comthe school is named ‘Pensole.”’ munities, and Edwards decided to pivot.

Launching a school from scratch is not easy. But Edwards had the bones of “Pledges started happening, and we’re talking billions of dollars,” he says. But a curriculum from the mentoring he’d been doing. So he reached out to the when it came to potentially donating to design schools, corporations discovered University of Oregon at Portland, which had just launched a product design few options. Of the 96 schools in the U.S. that offer design or art programs, program, and asked to teach a class. They agreed and the Pensole Design Black students comprise only nine percent of total enrollment. Worse, only two Academy was born. percent of them graduate. Just nine percent of HBCUs offer design programs, “I flew in 40 students from around the world,” Edwards says of his inaugural and those are in graphics and apparel—none offer product design, which is the class. “I designed a two-week program, because that was how long you had to primary degree for athletic footwear. “That’s why there’s a lack of diversity in design a shoe from start to finish at Nike. I wanted to put the kids through the industry—because those kids aren’t in college,” Edwards says. exactly what it was going to take for them to make it in this industry.”

Corporations began reaching out to Edwards. They liked Pensole’s model The students logged 14-plus hours every day and loved every minute of it. because it got results. Its success had already caught the attention of a Dan Edwards also brought in Nike designers as guest mentors. “They got an immerGilbert, founder of Quicken Loans and Rocket Mortgage, who suggested on sive experience, as it was important for them to see that there were multiple several occasion that Pensole move to Detroit. “I kept saying no. It didn’t make ways to get into this industry,” he says. Proof of Pensole’s potential: Of the 40 sense, there was no shoe industry in Detroit,” Edwards recalls. But then fate kids in that class, 37 work as designers in the industry. dealt him another winning hand.

Word quickly spread. Edwards received a call from the ArtCenter College of In mid 2020, Edwards was speaking with a former student about how Design in Pasadena—the school that would later award Edwards an honorary Detroit’s CCS should partner with an HBCU to increase its diversity. The fordegree—asking him to teach a class. It marked the start of a 10-year partnership mer student mentioned that Detroit used to have an HBCU, the Lewis College with the institution. Soon after, Parsons School of Design reached out to Edwards. of Business. Edwards was immediately intrigued. He researched the founder So did MIT. “So here I am, the kid who never went to college, teaching at the top (Violet T. Lewis), the reasons the school closed and why its efforts to reopen design schools in the country,” Edwards says. By that point he knew he didn’t failed. A realtor who had just sold the school’s building put Edwards in touch want to return to corporate life. “I fell back in love with design and teaching. with the Lewis family. He contacted them and Seeing that look in the kids’ eyes…I didn’t want shared his vision for reopening the college with to remove that emotion by going back to work.”

Edwards in front of the former home of the Lewis College of a design program component. “They loved the Edwards officially left Nike on April Fool’s Day Business, Michigan’s only HBCU, that will reopen as PLC. idea. They said their grandmother would have 2011. Over the next decade, as he grew Pensole loved what we teach at Pensole, because that’s Design Academy, he gathered knowledge on what how she started the school in 1928 in Indiana,” would become PSL. He didn’t know with who, he says. “They liked the vision I had for the when or where yet, but teaching at top designs college moving forward, so we entered into schools laid the foundation. “I was learning about an agreement to bring it back.” culture, curriculum and the education system,” he Edwards now had a good reason to call says. “I took bits and pieces from them all.” It’s the Gilbert, who committed funding as a foundsame way Edwards approached design projects. ing partner and offered to match anyone who “I learned everything I could and then, to use a matched his initial donation. Edwards also got Bruce Lee expression, took what was useful and support from Target. He was meeting with >55 released what was useless.”

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE COMPANY OF THE YEAR: BIRKENSTOCK

A Big Year BIG IS THE apt word to describe Birkenstock in 2021, the most successful year in the company’s history. The German brand recorded big growth, expanded big into product categories and announced big plans to open two new European factories soon to keep up with the growing demand. But the biggest news of all: its acquisition by L Catteron, the private equity firm backed by LVMH, for an estimated $3.5 billion. That’s huge—on many levels.

Birkenstock is no longer strictly the family-owned business it had been for nearly 250 years. The brand is now part of a conglomerate that features powerhouse fashion labels Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Celine and Givenchy.

Concerns about funding brand expansion went poof. But the acquisition is much bigger than that. On a macro scale, it reflects how comfort is fashion.

The granola, tree-hugging, anti-fashion, most renowned comfort brand is now a part of one of the world’s biggest fashion houses. Comfort is officially cool.

Here, CEO Oliver Reichert reflects on Birkenstock’s big year. A year that again broke records and, perhaps more importantly, laid the foundation for the brand to reach new levels of growth in the years ahead. —Greg Dutter

Why are the new German factories a big deal? Our multi-million investment program is quite unique in an industry that is used to handing over production to third-party suppliers. It will allow us to expand our production capacity from around 30 million pairs to 40 to 50 million pairs and create at least 1,000 new jobs in Germany. For outsiders, it may be unusual to invest so much money in an industry that has more or less turned its back on Europe and moved to Asia. But not for us. We are made in Germany.

With these investments, we’ll strengthen our supply chain as well as show a clear commitment on the part of our shareholders to Germany. And maybe one more surprise: We’ll be investing in our orthopedic roots with Deep Blue Footbed, marking a new strategic chapter. Never forget, Birkenstock is the inventor of the footbed.

What was the biggest surprise of 2021? I was a bit surprised to see how much progress we, as a society, made in a more conscious and healthier lifestyle. It took a pandemic for people to take a closer look at their lifestyle. People care more about their health, eating habits, how/where they worked, etc. They started to reflect about their desk, their chair and how they dressed. Many people who tended to be uniform in the past reinvented themselves, and Birkenstock was a big part of this movement. We’ve seen this in our sales, which have literally gone through the roof overnight.

How was business overall in 2021? It was another record year with overall growth of over 30 percent. Our business performed extremely well across all categories, channels and markets. Our DTC business developed fantastically, with our own digital channel performing best and, most remarkably, with no repercussions for the What was toughest challenge faced last year? To wholesale channel, even compared to 2020, when online serve the dramatically growing demand while facing received a strong boost due to the pandemic. Things also limitations in our production capacity. We’ve been went extremely well for us in the U.S. where we are one sold out for 10 years in a row. Of course, it’s a good of the most popular footwear brands. I’m truly impressed Oliver Reichert, CEO, Birkenstock problem to have, but it’s still a challenge as we want to by the passion with which our teams and partners made meet the expectations of our partners and consumers.

2021 the most successful year in our company’s history.

Partnering with L Catterton allows us to pave the way to the next chapter I say this with humility as 2021 was an incredible challenge for our industry. in our growth story. With that backing, we’ll be able to grow our business into a new dimension while staying true to our roots and values.

What were some key product highlights? Where do I begin…2021 was such a busy year. We’re currently seeing a strategic push for the last fall/winter colHow would you grade your team on navigating through such unpreclection, so our share increased to 40 percent of our business in 2021. The push edented challenges? This team is doing an extraordinary job—and not is driven by our cozy winter trends with shearling sandals, shoes, boots and just in the pandemic, but for 10 years now. It doesn’t matter whether it’s home styles. Our main business continues to grow in spring/summer, driven the C-level or a factory worker, everyone is burning for their ideas and by sandals, such as our new highlight, the Gizeh Big Buckle. We are also seeing fighting for a greater cause, which is far bigger than each of us individupositive trends for new product drops such as the Teddy platform sandal in ally. You can see and feel that in our products—every detail is extremely our on-trend eggshell color and our new Arizona Split in exciting color blends. well thought out and perfection is pushed to the highest level in every We’re also seeing fantastic progress in our closed-toe business—this part of the corner of our company. business is becoming more and more important.

On the collaboration side, our project with Jil Sander, launched in June, Looking back on 2021, what are you most proud of ? That we stayed saw a huge response in the global fashion scene. It took two years for the relevant without having to compromise on our values and beliefs while product to be ready. We chose to work with Jil Sander, believing in the new many constants in life were turned upside down. And, while doing so, being perspective of Lucie and Luke Meier. They’ve given this important brand a reliable partner for our employees, suppliers, distribution partners and, relevance and authenticity. Together we achieved what we always strive for: last but not least, fans. newness and product innovation.

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THE IR SHOW VENDORS FEB. 1 - 3, 2022 AETREX ALEAF PRODUCTS ALI MACGRAW FOOTWEAR ALLROUNDER AMALFI BY RANGONI ANYWEAR FOOTWEAR APRES BY LAMO ARA ARCOPEDICO ASPORTUGUESAS AS98 ATOM ATTIBA AVENGER WORK BOOTS AZURA BEARPAW BIONICA BIRKENSTOCK BIZA BORN FOOTWEAR BOS & CO BOTTLESMITH BUENO BULLE BURTEN DISTRIBUTION BUSSOLA CADENCE INSOLES CARMELA CASTA CHACO FOOTWEAR CHARLESTON SHOE CO CHINOOK FOOTWEAR CLARKS COBB HILL COMFORTIVA CREATIVE RECREATION DANSKO DAVID TATE DELLA TERRA SHOES DO LIFE ATTACHED DORKING DUNHAM EARTH ORIGINS ECCO ENDRINA FEETURES FINN COMFORT USA FITFLOP FITTED RETAIL FLEXUS FLORSHEIM FLORSHEIM WORK FLUCHOS FUROSHIKI

FLY LONDON GABOR GANTER GENUINE GRIP GEOX GOLO SHOES HAFLINGER HALSA FOOTWEAR ILSE JACOBSEN INFINITY IRON AGE FOOTWEAR JAMBU & CO JOSEF SEIBEL KALSO KANNA KEEN FOOTWEAR KEEN UTILITY KLOGS FOOTWEAR KUMFS L’ARTISTE LAFORST LAMO FOOTWEAR LIVING KITZBUEHEL MALIBU SANDALS MELIN MEPHISTO MIZ MOOZ MOBILS MOSHN MUNRO NAOT FOOTWEAR NATIONAL SHOE TRAVELERS (NST) NAUTILUS SAFETY FOOTWEAR NEROGIARDINI NO BS OAK & HYDE OLANG OLUKAI ONFOOT OS1ST OTBT PANDERE SHOES PAPUCEI PATRIZIA PAULA URBAN PEDRO ANTON PEGADA SHOES PENDLETON PIKOLINOS PLAKTON SANDALS POWERSTEP PROPET FOOTWEAR PUMA SAFETY

REEBOK WORK REGARDE LE CIEL R-EVOLUTION REMONTE REVERE RIEKER “antistress” ROBERT ZUR ROCKPORT ROCKPORT WORKS ROLLIE ROMIKA S-FELLAS SALVIA SANITA SAS - SAN ANTONIO SHOEMAKERS SAOLA SHOES SESTO MEUCCI SKECHERS WORK SOCKSMITH SOFFT SOFTINOS SOFTWALK SPERRY SPIRA SPRING STEP SPRING STEP PROFESSIONAL SPYDER FOOTWEAR STRIVE FOOTWEAR SUPERFEET WORLDWIDE TAOS THE FLEXX FOOTWEAR THINK! TIMBERLAND TOMS TONI PONS TOPO ATHLETIC TROTTERS TWISTED X UNITED SHOE RETAILERS ASSN. (USRA) VADDIA VANELI VIBRAM FIVE FINGERS VIONIC WALDLAUFER WALKING CRADLES WOLKY WOOLLOOMOOLOO WOZ? XELERO YELLOW BOX ZIERA

Thanks to everyone who attended and helped make our show a huge success.

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE

COMFORT SPECIALTY: ALAN’S SHOES

Swan Song ALAN MIKLOFSKY, RECENTLY retired owner of Alan’s Shoes in Tuscon, AZ, ended on a high note. Not only did he snag a Plus Award for retail excellence, the veteran retailer finished 2021 with two strong quarters—as more people became vaccinated—that enabled the two-store business to top 2019 sales and would have topped the 20-year-old chain’s best year ever of 2018 if he could have gotten his hands on more inventory.

Blame it on the pandemic, and the fact that in the sit-and-fit world lots of customers are repeat style purchasers—or nothing. “We just couldn’t get some of those key athletic styles in all the sizes and widths that our customers demand,” Miklofsky says, noting that it was a similar issue with a couple of key casual brands as well. “If we had the right amount of inventory, we’d have really beaten 2019 by a lot and 2020 by a ton.”

Nonetheless, Miklofsky believes the inventory shortages forced his team to become better retailers. For starters, they had to find alternatives, and then they had to convince customers they were worthy substitutes. On that note, he says Brooks and Hoka made up for some of its New Balance inventory shortage. “A lot of independents like myself were overly reliant on New Balance, anyway,” he says. “So we were really fortunate that we could turn to those two brands, like a lot of other independents did with On.” And while the idea is to always sell the inventory that you have, Miklofsky admits there were times when alternatives simply didn’t do. “You can’t trade them all. Some people fall in love with a particular style, and that customer wasn’t served very well by us last year because we just didn’t have every size and width needed,” he says. “Or with Birkenstock, for example. You can try to sell a knockoff or something similar, but that’s usually not successful. You hate losing those sales.”

David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas, credits Miklofsky’s long-running success (he and his wife/business partner Annette got their start in shoe retailing in 1982 with The Shoe House chain) for his inventory management capabilities, for starters. “Alan’s Shoes offers a fantastic assortment of the best comfort brands along with fantastic personal service,” he says. “He’s a student of the footwear industry and is very adept at managing his inventory to be productive.” An example, Kahan notes, was the Miklofskys’ decision decades ago to take a risk on a little niche brand (Birkenstock) that has since helped define their retail career. “Having the foresight to take certain brands and bring them to their community and never compromise the high levels of customer service, as well as always being a well-run operation make Alan and Annette role models,” Kahan says. “They’re also fantastic communicators—very direct and have a good understanding of both vendor and retailer needs. They truly epitomize the word ‘partner.’”

Miklofsky credits the chain’s success particularly in 2021 to his people. “Our staff, especially our executive staff, performed miracles for our company,” he says. “Our buyers worked with our vendors, and our sales staff worked harder with customers.” With regards to the latter, Miklofsky made investments in store employees to try and reduce attrition, which proved to be very successful.

“As our attrition rate reduced, it allowed our average staff person to become

Alan Miklofsky: the man and his store.

more knowledgeable about our products,” he says. “That meant that our efforts at SWAT (Sell What’s Available Today) helped us reduce obsolete inventory and keep our walk rates low.” Miklofsky adds, “Our customer service abilities, already very high, became better as more salespeople started to reach the benchmarks we established for them.”

As for the decision to call it quits after 40 years, Miklofsky cites a host of reasons for making it the right time to sell his business—particularly the opportunity to sell to Sole Provisions, an 18-store chain of comfort stores that include Pegasus Shoes in New York, Benjamin Lovell in Pennsylvania and InStep in Texas. Miklofsky believes his business is in good hands—one that will continue its legacy of great customer service, only now with a much stronger buying position. “Even prior to the pandemic, I became convinced that our business, as good as a retailer we had become, would be a better business as a division of a larger retailer,” he says. “Without margin growth, it’s difficult for small retailers to produce enough gross profit to carry expense ratios that fund professional staffs that can accomplish all that we aimed to.

Our focus on inventory accuracy and networking required too large of a back office payroll expense at a time when selling floor payroll needed to increase to meet the demands of state mandated payroll and benefit increases and the needs of our staff in an environment where everyone is competing to recruit staff from other employers.”

The Miklofskys did their due diligence in finding the right partner. Or, as Miklofsky says, “The right recipe cannot and should not be rushed.” The two entities first got to know each other’s needs and wants, a process that required transparency and understanding. “A seller should run away from any buyer who wants to make many changes immediately, or who doesn’t understand the seller’s model or who isn’t ready, willing or able to execute,” he offers. “We were fortunate to find the right match for us.”

Ditto for John Holden, director of merchandising for Sole Provisions. “They are iconic stores and align with what we do nicely,” he says.

As for any sage parting independent retailer wisdom, Miklofsky believes there is strength in numbers. “Work with fellow retailers. Find some clues by putting your heads together,” he says. “It’s one of the reasons why trade shows need to happen, so you can sit down and talk about what is and isn’t working, instead of only looking at your own business.” In the meantime, Miklofsky says he won’t disappear completely from the industry he so loves. “I’ll relax for a bit first, but I plan to work on consulting projects,” he says. “I’ll still be attached to the shoe business in various ways.” —G.D.

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All of us in the Taos family sincerely appreciate receiving the 2021 Plus Award for Women’s Comfort.

I would like to thank everyone in the industry that voted for us and has supported us over the years.

I also want to thank everyone here at Taos that has worked so hard to make our brand what it is today and what it can continue to be in the future.

DeepakAlag DavidBarad RobCapodici RosarioCentina YahyaChan MelanieDeSantiago BrianFelse DonFulton ChadGlass EricaHeck ChrisHusby SylviaJensen TeresaJohnson MichelleJohnston MikeKasterko JenniferKuo OndreaKurttila BillLangrell LizaLiaghat NeilMeadows KarolynNavarro BiraneNdiaye BillNelligan MarkMehrens SaraMichelle JanetSanchez Schwinden AmandaStiles KyleStearns DianneStevenson ErikaVazquez ValerieVentimiglia MikeWalker JaneWalters JohnZelayandia and our Agents and Factory Partners.

You are all STARS! STAR by Taos

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE

On’s Cloudrock hiker took the brand to new heights.

Here, we go into the trenches with two leading retailers on why On was a brand that delivered big time to their businesses in 2021. —G.D. LESTER WASSERMAN, OWNER, TIP TOP SHOES AND WEST NYC: How important was On to your overall business in 2021? On was a key part of not only our athletic business, but a massive part of our overall business as customers looked to buy more to sneakers than they had in years past. The pandemic had people looking to get outside, get healthy and avoid mass transit.

Were On sales up over 2020 and 2019? Our On sales were up significantly over both 2019 and 2020. They were one of the few athletic vendors that had inventory when we needed it. We stepped up our orders and they were able to fill them.

What are some factors that make On a popular choice among your customers? On is highly desirable, in part, to the fact that one of their key styles last year was a slip-on. People enjoy easy on/easy off footwear. Additionally, the comfort is there right out of the box. No break-in required. Lastly, the tech look of the shoe makes it look fast and lines up with how customers feel and want to feel.

BRAND OF THE YEAR: ON

On It SINCE LAUNCHING IN 2010, On has reached lofty heights worldwide with its “running on clouds” inspired performance technology that has since expanded beyond running and into trail running and performance apparel (2016); street and waterproof collections (2018); hiking (2019) and tennis (2021). Along the way, the Swiss-based company—founded by former professional athlete Olivier Bernhard and friends David Allemann and Caspar Coppetti—has racked up numerous design awards and built a cult of cloud cushioning personality among millions of elite athletes, weekend warriors, street influencers and celebrities along the way.

On’s popularity only soared to new heights in 2021, which was highlighted in September by its IPO with an initial raise of $746 million and an estimated market value of $7.3 billion. (The IPO was done in pure On form: the founders and 100 other runners jogged along the Hudson River en route to Wall Street to ring the opening bell.) Demand in 2021 spiked across all channels, regions and product categories, contributing significantly to On’s hyper-growth. Net sales increased by 68 percent in the third quarter, the strongest quarter in the company’s history, and by 77 percent in the first nine months of 2021.

In addition to groundbreaking performance and cutting-edge style, On has also scored success by being an attractive brand alternative, especially at a time when other large athletic brands have been culling down their lists of retail partners. With regards to the latter, Caspar Coppetti, co-founder, cited in its Q3 press release the continued strengthening of partnerships with “some of the most recognized premium global retailers” as a key to its success. The exec added, “We hit exciting milestones this quarter, which included becoming the official outfitter for the Swiss Olympics and Paralympics teams, introducing the Cloudboom Echo to support our athletes achieve incredible results, and wowing consumers with the new Cloudstratus.”

Who are your On customers, and are they different perhaps than other sneaker brand customers in your stores? The On customer ranges both in age and what they are looking to do with the shoes. We have customers 25 to 35 who train in them, as well as customers who are over 50 who wear them as casual and walking shoes. It’s tough to pinpoint a particular group because there are so many different customers wearing them. That’s what makes them a success.

JUSTIN KEHRWALD, PRESIDENT AND CEO, TRADEHOME SHOES: How important was On Running to your business last year? In 2021, On solidified itself as a top brand for Tradehome Shoes. Over nearly five years of carrying the brand, we’ve continued to confidently and enthusiastically introduce new customers to On products. Last year proved to be the year that people came to our stores because we’ve become known as a retailer that carries a great assortment and is educated on the DNA of the On brand.

Were your On sales up over 2020 and 2019? Last year was our best with On. And we expect we’ll continue to grow the brand—provided we can keep up from an inventory perspective.

What were some popular styles in 2021? The core models (Cloud, Cloud X, Cloudswift, and Cloudflow) all had great years for us. Additionally, we were able to grow business with the Roger (tennis) collection and with the more trail-inspired styles, such as the Cloudrock and the Cloudventure. Neutral colors led the way, but the more colorful offerings have definitely gained momentum.

What are some factors that makes On a popular choice among your customers? On shoes, plain and simple, feel good and look cool. The product is ready to wear right out of the box and has a distinct styling that absolutely resonates with our customers. On does an excellent job of introducing new color assortments and silhouettes, while keeping the tried-and-true combinations fresh and desirable.

On has also helped fill a vacuum caused by athletic brands that couldn’t meet deliveries or have stopped shipping select retailers entirely. Securing product was absolutely a challenge in 2021. But On has done an excellent job keeping us updated on shipment timing and has consistently informed us whenever there has been additional inventory available to secure.

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE

MEN’S COMFORT: ECCO

Lean and Clean LEANING INTO CONSUMER trends sparked by the pandemic, Ecco strategically tweaked its offerings while continuing to focus on its core strengths in 2021. The Scandinavian comfort brand updated one of its main men’s dress lines with new silhouettes and comfort technology in anticipation of the category bouncing back when people began returning to offices. And with consumer appetites for casual outdoor shoes showing no sign of letting up, Ecco developed a new active men’s line to fill a gap in its offerings.

Focusing on what it does best while making adjustments for evolving consumer habits helped propel the shoemaker to strong sales in its core dress and casual categories in the second half of the year, says Felix Zahn, director of merchandising planning and allocation for Ecco, which is marking its fourth straight Plus Award win in the Men’s Comfort category. —Bernadette Starzee All things considered, how was business in 2021? When entering 2021 it was already clear to us that it would not be a normal year again. There simply have been too many changes initiated by the pandemic, to which a complex industry like ours cannot quickly react.

Consumer behavior and preferences have dramatically changed, impacting our own points of distribution and our business partners. We all saw a disappointing first quarter driven by reduced and regulated traffic in most parts of the country.

Felix Zahn, director of But with vaccines being rolled merchandising/planning out and warmer temperatures arriving, we saw a steady pickup in business beginning in Q2. Business really got better in the second half of the year when the reopening of the economy. Core Ecco categories such as casual and dress made a strong comeback for us in the second half, and we also saw continued growth in our outdoor and golf segments, which both remain at much higher levels than pre-pandemic. However, with the emergence of the Delta and Omicron variants in late 2021, we faced new challenges again.

How did you adjust your products when you realized it would be another abnormal year? Our aim for 2021 really was to focus on our strengths, essentials and our base. When it comes to men’s, we predicted that dress shoes would eventually make a comeback in the back half of the year. Therefore, we updated

one of our most core products, the Helsinki franchise. Our new Helsinki 2 is based on the original idea, however now with an updated last shape, featuring modernized new silhouettes and a new comfort fit technology.

Secondly, we predicted that many consumer lifestyle changes the pandemic has brought upon us would continue to last, including a more local, outdoor lifestyle. Our team identified a gap in our collection here and, as a result, introduced a new product franchise named MX, which stands for ‘motocross.”

Hence, the rather aggressive outsole profile. It’s a lightweight, multifunctional, everyday outdoor sneaker that guys can take on the trail or just for a casual walk with the dog. Our MX collection comes in many different silhouettes and executions.

What other notable brand initiatives did you introduce in 2021? We focused even more on sustainability. A core part of our DNA is making our own leather, and one area we are heavily focusing on is water efficiency. We have heavily rolled out our DriTan leather technology in our collections.

Besides saving huge amounts of water, the technology considerably reduces the amount of chemicals used and lowers the wastewater production. In addition, we use surplus leathers in our shoes, are conscious in our design process and have streamlined the portfolio, in order to utilize all our materials to reduce surplus and waste.

What was the biggest surprise of the year? How well we continue to work together and have adapted as a big global company, despite all the challenges the pandemic has thrown us. Most of our meetings, workshops and daily work have been facilitated remotely. The product development process, which for decades has been hands-on, has been streamlined and largely digitalized.

The new MX collection: ideal for trail and coffee runs.

How did supply chain woes impact Ecco? Supply chain issues were definitely front and center in 2021 and continue to bug us. Fortunately, we own our own tanneries and factories, giving us more control over that part of the supply chain. Here we have done everything possible to keep our factories open while guaranteeing the safety and well-being of our employees. For example, Ecco led the vaccination efforts in many of our factories, especially in Asia, providing early vaccine access to our workers and their families. In addition to keeping our factories open, we have optimized shipping routes and prioritized certain product categories over others.

How would you grade your team’s overall performance navigating these unprecedented challenges? The team has done a hell of a job and fought for every single pair in 2021. We’ve grown together much stronger as a company.

For instance, due to short staffing, employees from various areas of the business have helped out in our warehouses and stores.

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BRINGING THE FOOTWEAR COMMUNITY TOGETHER TO FACE TODAY'S CHANGING RETAIL ENVIRONMENT. Linda@USRAonline.org 661-367-4816 FOP MAR 2022.indd 27

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE Fall ’21 also marked a milestone in footwear eco-innovation for Timberland Pro. To help minimize our carbon footprint, we’ve explored ways to leverage net positive practices and produce products that perform well and are better for the environment. An example of this is our Gridworks EK+ boot, which is made entirely from leather sourced from farms that utilize regenerative agriculture.

WORK BOOTS: TIMBERLAND PRO

Never Stop Working

What were some other notable brand initiatives? Timberland Pro continued our work to inspire the next generation of skilled workers, combatting the expanding skills gap. In partnership with The Martin Agency, we released the third evolution of our “Always Do. Never Done.” brand voice campaign. The spots showcase real workers welding hundreds of feet above an iconic soccer stadium and getting a “higher education” as they admire the coastline from the top of a wind turbine. Timberland Pro also continued our valued partnership with the Generation T movement to raise awareness and help change the narrative around the skilled trades.

THE EVOLVING NEEDS of the workforce inspired performance, comfort and durability innovations in Timberland Pro’s 2021 collections. A repeat winner in the Work Boots category, Timberland Pro has stayed ahead of changes in the dynamic marketplace, where strong demand for the various essential services provided by professional tradespeople has in turn created steady need for the brand’s extensive offerings for men and women.

Vice President and General Manager Bob Sineni discusses how the iconic workforce brand’s customer-centric approach served it well in 2021. —B.S. How was business last year and how did it compare to 2020 and prepandemic? Overall, Timberland Pro had a strong year. The industrial footwear market has seen many changes and accelerants since the pre-pandemic world.

For the most part, the industrial workers of the world were deemed essential and were often at the forefront of the changing times. One sector that has continued to grow exponentially has been the warehousing, transportation and logistics sector. Through our efforts to understand evolving consumer behaviors and shifts in global supply chain, Timberland Pro has had an opportunity to serve the workers who have been keeping our world moving forward over the past two-plus years. The professional tradesperson continues to be at the center of the Timberland Pro strategy and this consumer-centric approach to all parts of the business has been the main catalyst for our success. Combine this with product innovation and you have a winning formula.

What were some of your key innovations in 2021? In the spring, we launched a revolutionary new footwear style that raised the bar in the safety athletic category. In the Radius work shoe, we introduced our HoverSpring foam midsole, which combines lightweight, athletic materials with jobsite durability and performance.

Timberland Pro also launched the second iteration of the iconic Boondock family, the Boondock HD. It features the new StepPropel comfort platform to give you the energy needed to move throughout the workday. It’s also built with the patented ExoSpine technology to help lock your heel into place and increase durability. We also launched the new women’s Ashlar work boot in the fall, providing comfort, durability and performance on the jobsite and built specifically for a woman’s foot.

Bob Sineni, VP/GM Timberland Pro

What was the biggest surprise of the year? That we continued to find new and innovative ways to efficiently adapt to the pandemic environment. Through strategic partnerships with key manufacturers, Timberland Pro launched a digital product creation process that allows the team to create 3D renderings of new products to help shorten lead times and enhance virtual sales programs. The virtual samples help create prototype efficiencies and further position Timberland Pro as the technological leader in the workwear category.

What was the year’s toughest challenge? Like many brands, Timberland Pro experienced challenges with our global supply chain. Through thoughtful and staggered product launches and proactive relationship management, we were able to minimize the impact of these challenges.

How would you grade your team on its overall perforThe Radius Flex boot features the mance navigating through such new HoverSpring foam midsole. unprecedented challenges? The resilience and passion that this team has shown over the past two years has been nothing short of extraordinary. They have been adaptive and agile through a lifetime of changes in a short period of time. The fact that this brand has been so successful during a very difficult time is a testament to each and every person working on Timberland Pro. The team lives as stewards of the brand every day and I’m really proud to be a part of it.

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OUTDOOR: MERRELL

Gorpcore is Good TURNING 40 IN 2021, Merrell marked the milestone by riding a wave of elevated interest in outdoor activities sparked by the pandemic. The subsidiary of Wolverine Worldwide continued to grow its top-selling Moab hiking line while launching a new collection to capitalize on the growing gorpcore trend, in which the functional features of an outdoor style are combined with high-fashion elements for crossover to everyday wear.

With millions of people participating in outdoor activities for the first time, Merrell has embraced the newbies through its marketing and new product collaborations. “In 2021, we became more vocal about our brand purpose, which is to share the simple power of being outside with everyone,” says Merrell President Chris Hufnagel. Here, the exec talks about the brand’s efforts of the past year and why the great outdoors were, in fact, great for Merrell. —B.S. How did 2021 compare to 2020 and pre-pandemic? The outdoors is having its moment during the pandemic. According to the Outdoor Industry Association, 7.1 million Americans ventured out to start participating in outdoor activities in 2020, and in 2021 we saw that interest in Merrell and outdoor activity still holding strong and contributing to our strong growth.

What were some key product highlights of the year? We continued to grow our Moab franchise with the launch of Moab Speed and Moab Flight.

Merrell Moab has become the bestselling hiker in the world, and the approach to introducing the Moab Speed was to reflect a more athletic, faster way of hiking with a lightweight, protective hybrid-designed shoe to give any people the physical confidence to tackle any trail. This new launch was a hit with consumers because it enabled them to explore the newest trend of “fast hiking” and the aesthetic of the shoe itself was boldly designed, which also made it stand out from a fashion-forward perspective.

Another highlight was the launch of our 1TRL collection, curated for tastemaker consumers who are leading the fashion trends and driving the explosion of the gorpcore trend. As a result, we are being invited to participate in runway shows with upcoming designers like Louis Gabriel Nouchi.

Collaborations also energized us throughout the year, as we really pushed forward on using our platform to elevate trailblazers who share in our commitment to making the outdoors more inclusive, accessible and welcoming to all. Early in the year, we partnered with Jenny Bruso and @UnlikelyHikers to introduce a new hiking boot collection that celebrated the diversity of the growing hiker fan base. We also tapped into the creative talent of Latasha Dunston to introduce the Outdoors for All collection and drive forward conversations for justice, equity, diversity and inclusion. Latasha’s artwork inspired us to create shoes reflecting the beauty and power behind her message that the outdoors is for everyone.

How else have you embraced new outdoor enthusiasts? We seized the opportunity to take over National Great Outdoors Month with a bold campaign that reinforced “Everything Is Greater Outdoors,” encouraging the industry, media and consumers alike to think differently about what it means to share the simple power of being outside with everyone. From self-care to mental health, music to community, we collaborated and celebrated the virtues of being outdoors by sparking a movement to inspire people to find creative ways to get outdoors, where everything is greater.

In 2021, we also joined forces with Big Brothers Big Sisters (BBBS) to embark on a long-term relationship that will harness the power of being

The new @UnlikelyHikers collab celebrated diversity.

Front runner: The Moab Speed GTX, part of Merrell’s top-selling Moab franchise.

outside and make it more accessible to more youth. We worked closely with BBBS to create life-changing connections for young people with the outdoors, culminating with our Shared Steps campaign in September, which ultimately achieved over 40 million steps that were converted into a substantial donation back to BBBS to further support its ongoing mentorship work and new opportunities to expose kids to the outdoors.

What was the biggest surprise of the year? One thing that has delighted me is the way that Merrell is starting to break into the cultural, from appearing in a Vogue spread shot by Annie Leibowitz to key celebrities and influencers wearing our shoes on and off the trail.

What was your toughest challenge in 2021? Continuing to ensure the safety and well-being of our people, not only in the U.S., but also around the globe.

How would you grade your team’s overall performance since the pandemic began? We have an outstanding team, comprised of dynamic, hardworking and smart individuals who genuinely personify our brand’s mission by bringing their passion for the outdoors into the work we do every day. Nothing makes me prouder than to see their resilience and grit in action as leaders across every function of our business. I value and appreciate every single member of the Merrell team for their ongoing commitment to bringing their best selves to work—day in, and day out—even at a time of unprecedented challenges. march 2022 • footwearplusmagazine.com 29

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE

ATHLETIC: HOKA

Running Strong The new Tecton X: Hoka’s first carbon plated trail runner.

hiking footwear sales increased by over 15 percent compared to the previous year, which is remarkable considering the entire footwear market declined by 16 percent that same month. This upward swing in outdoor behaviors has only continued to grow through 2021. With Hoka’s innovative and solutionoriented approach to product creation, our brand is perfectly positioned to empower this new surge in active people to fly over the earth, in whatever way or activity suits them.

What were some key product highlights of the year? We were fortunate enough to have quite a few successful launches in 2021—from kicking the year off with the new Carbon X 2, the shoe that brought runner Jim Walmsley 17 seconds short of the 100K world record; to the launch of the new Clifton 8, one of our most popular road shoes; to the Bondi X, whose innovative approach to carbon-fiber plates reimagined the relationship between speed and cushion, making carbon accessible to a broader audience.

What were some other notable brand initiatives introduced in 2021?

This year, Hoka announced a multi-year partnership with the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB) to become the iconic race series’ official technical footwear and apparel sponsor. Hoka’s role as presenting sponsor highlights the brand’s ascendancy in the trail running community. Hoka was born in the mountains and has many meaningful and long-standing ties to Chamonix, France, where the event is based. We’re honored and humbled to partner with UTMB under the unified goal of making the special sport of ultra-trail more accessible to athletes.

ONE OF THE world’s fastest growing athletic footwear brands, Hoka made major strides in 2021, helping to propel parent company Deckers Brands to its largest quarter in history for it recent third quarter, which ended Dec. 31, 2021. Hoka’s net sales for that quarter totaled $184.6 million, up 30.3 percent over the prior year, and the brand kept its foot on the gas, launching several new products in 2021 and inking a partnership deal that pays homage to its French trail running roots.

Hoka was founded in 2009 by two French runners who wanted to create a shoe that would allow them to run downhill faster. The original product, which featured an oversized outsole with a maximum amount of cushioning and stability, became a favorite among ultramarathoners. Acquired by Deckers Brands in 2013, the brand has since expanded its line to include hiking and lifestyle shoes while picking up millions of fans spanning elite athletes to average Joes and Janes hooked on Hoka’s comfort and performance attributes.

Or, as Chris Cohen, vice president sales for Hoka, says, “We truly feel that everyone is an athlete, and we strive to empower everyone so they can see themselves represented in Hoka.” —B.S. Why might Hoka be well-positioned amid the so-called new normal? The pandemic has drastically changed consumer behaviors, particularly when it comes to health and wellness routines. People have shifted toward safer activities like cycling, running, walking and hiking, to offset their previous gym and yoga memberships. Hiking and running in particular have seen a huge uptick in sales and participation. For the month of July 2020, NPD reported that U.S.

Chris Cohen, VP of Sales, Hoka

What was the biggest surprise of the year? Our continued brand acceleration across all access points was a welcome surprise. While we had planned for continued growth, the growth trajectory exceeded our expectations in all product categories. Beyond that, while I can’t say it counts as a surprise, the manner in which our trade partners have adapted, consistently, has been great to see. Beyond that, the spirit of collaboration has been remarkable; we are clearly living and operating in unusual and unpredictable times, which has caused us all to become sharper in all we do, but none of it happens without strong relationships.

What was the toughest challenge in 2021 and how did you overcome it?

The supply chain, as every area was impacted dramatically. These challenges included increased freight and cost pressures related to container shortages, port congestion and trucking scarcity. They all converged at once, creating significantly longer transit times as well as a greater reliance on air freight.

Our teams and trade partners have had to be very nimble, as the supply picture changes almost daily. The last thing any brand wants to do is disappoint the consumer, which has required our field teams to be in constant contact with all partners, to ensure they are creating a reasonable expectation with their retail customers. Additionally, we’ve had to tailor our messaging, socially, digitally and otherwise to reflect the current reality of a dynamic supply chain.

Beyond that, the willingness of Deckers to invest significantly in air freight has had a direct impact on the end consumer, as we’ve been able to mitigate longer transit times, ultimately getting consumers the product they desire in a more timely manner.

How would you grade your team on its overall performance navigating through such unprecedented challenges? I’m privileged to work with an amazingly talented team of people—from product to distribution, and all cross-functional partners in between. We’re so proud of what everyone has accomplished this year. I believe that our team met every challenge head on, with optimism, drive and an overwhelming desire to succeed. The success we enjoyed this year was a direct result of that dedication and hard work.

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The Zero-X collection features a no-glue construction and rice husk outsoles.

percent recycled and upcycled EVA waste, and LeatherTWX, which is made of 80 percent scrap leather that would otherwise go into landfills. These were big accomplishments for Twisted X because not only are we reducing our use of new materials, but we are also reducing waste going into landfills. From creating new eco-friendly materials to exploring new techniques for construction, Twisted X holistically evaluates every step of our process to continue to create environmentally responsible footwear and production processes without compromising quality and performance. In fact, we have found that leveraging our sustainable materials makes for better footwear. Last but not least, we signed a collaboration agreement at the end of last year with renowned Texas artist and philanthropist, Olivia Bennett, to introduce a new collection coming to market in 2022 with a focus on sustainability, innovation and Twisted X’s philosophy to be humble and kind.

Green and good then, yes? Yes. And on that note, we opened a Tough Enough to Wear Pink Counseling Center in Decatur, TX, where our headquarters are located. Twisted X led the charge in bringing this counseling center to life alongside Wise Health System, committing $1.2 million to the flagship center.

It’s operated by Wise Health System and creates a counseling destination for those currently fighting and recovering from breast cancer.

SUSTAINABILITY: TWISTED X

Green Dreams TWISTED X INTENSIFIED its commitment to sustainability last year while increasing production of its footwear, which includes western, lifestyle and outdoor styles and a rapidly expanding work category. The Texas-based company infused new sustainability initiatives into its products, technologies and company policies while working to stay ahead of its retail partners’ growing demand for inventory.

CEO Prasad Reddy discussed the year’s challenges and successes, as well as Twisted X’s ongoing mission to help preserve the planet.

What were some notable sustainability initiatives introduced in 2021?

We brought on Kristy Rosica, our first-ever sustainability strategist, to help set metrics to quantify Twisted X’s carbon neutrality, which we achieved in all business operations worldwide as of 2020. In her role, Kristy has led efforts to quantify and communicate our long-term sustainability initiatives through yearly reports that aid in determining additional steps we can take to further reduce waste. This has included creating lifecycle assessments that track materials all the way back to their original sources to educate partners and consumers on the impact Twisted X is making on the planet. Kristy is also tasked with researching additional eco-friendly materials and processes to keep us at the forefront of innovation. The addition of a sustainability strategist was something unheard of for a company of our size, but the investment has certainly been worth it, and we encourage others to follow our lead.

Anything else? We announced our commitment of ensuring 100 percent of our products will have at least one sustainability element by the end of 2022.

We also brought to market Blend85, which is our new footbed made of 85

What were some other highlights of the year? In 2021, we developed a patentpending construction technique where our CellStretch technology now comes in a single sole, regardless of size. This technology was first introduced in our Tech X collection, which features traditional western styles with revolutionary comfort. Another highlight was the rapid growth of Twisted X Work. When the pandemic started, the agricultural, manufacturing, warehousing and trucking industries skyrocketed, and we saw an opportunity to increase the production and launch new lines specifically for these industries. Since then, our growth has been phenomenal in the category, and we’re expecting that to continue in 2022.

What was the toughest challenge of last year? Supply chain. The unpredictability of Covid has been a pressing concern. Fortunately, it hasn’t impacted our production or shipments. However, the congestion at U.S. ports and lack of container space has been a challenge for many brands. What used to take four weeks for products to arrive now takes about 10. At one point we had more products in transit—on the water or in between factories Prasad Reddy, and warehouses—than we had in CEO, Twisted X the warehouse. However, since we increased our production early in the pandemic, it has helped us greatly to ensure we’ve had enough products in our warehouse to keep up with demand.

How would you grade your team on its overall performance navigating through such unprecedented challenges? We have a very small team considering the size of our market presence. But I believe we have the best team in the industry, and quite a few of our peers have commented on our incredible progression over the past few years. I always say people make the company, and the growth of Twisted X is because of our exceptional team. march 2022 • footwearplusmagazine.com 31

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WOMEN’S COMFORT: TAOS

Merchant Mindset AFTER 40-PLUS years of honing his craft, Glen Barad, president of Taos Footwear, has a pretty firm grasp of what categories will be meaningful for the comfort brand and its retail partners. And that currently spans sandals, canvas sneakers, classic boots, leather cup soles and wool—the five categories that fueled the brand’s success the past few years. Sales in 2021 were up 10 percent over 2019, which Barad finds “pretty incredible,” since a lot of fall inventory never arrived due to Covid-induced factory closures.

The success stems from picking the right categories, building them out and creating a strong Taos trust factor with retailers and consumers. “We try

The Woolderness clog, a best-seller in 2021.

to identify trends that are going to have long legs,” Barad explains. “I prefer not to chase things that might be dust in the wind or a flash in the pan. We focus on ones that we expect will be around for a long time, but we come in at the front end when people are just starting to embrace it.” An example of getting an early jump was Taos’ decision, 17 years ago, to focus on footbeds, which the then new brand uniquely introduced across a range of silhouettes.

“Look at the market now: everybody has a footbed story, whereas back then it might have been one or two brands,” he says. “We’ve put footbeds into different categories, and it’s been working very well. I think we’ve a big hand in changing the overall look of the industry.”

Wool styles are another success story. While Taos has been offering such styles for 15 years, it’s been over the past three years that it has maximized the trend. “We’ve become more aggressive, and it’s paying dividends for us,” Barad says, noting the category had been regional until Allbirds helped introduce the material to a broader audience. It’s just that Taos is hitting on a much broader range of wool styles than sneakers. “The more traditional, classic wool clog category is doing very well, and we source from Europe where they’ve been the experts forever,” he says. “And then we’ve introduced indoor/outdoor wool casual styles that appeal to a much broader audience across the country. We’ve become the go-to brand for wool casuals in our distribution channel, and wool

overall has become another very successful category for us.”

Of course, you have to see the trend in order to seize upon it. And that’s credit to Barad’s good eye. “It’s 40 years of going to school,” he says. “And while I don’t get up at 4 a.m. on Sundays to go to swap meets, or shop the malls until they close after a full day of work, those decades of studying the industry gives me a feel for the right trends.” The exec adds, “I think we happen to be very good merchants, whereas it’s often a case other companies throw a bunch of things against the wall and hope to see what sticks. Our track record on hitting on the right trends and categories speaks for itself.”

Another key ingredient contributing to Taos’ success amid the pandemic has had nothing to do with shoes, really. But it might be just as important, according to Barad. Namely: Taos cares about the well-being of its retail partners, and that’s been reflected in its open and honest lines of communication throughout the crisis. “Our team communicated the good, the bad and the ugly with all of our customers,” he says. “We tried to help them where we could. We let them know what we could and couldn’t do. And I think they really appreciate somebody being upfront with them, versus don’t pick up the phone, don’t say anything and we’ll communicate after the fact.”

Above all, Barad says Taos’ business is conducted with care. “We genuinely want to help our retailers succeed,” he says. And while Barad believes this philosophy is rare in an increasingly DTC focused landscape, he’s not changing tactics any time soon. “Even though it has probably held our numbers back on a macro scale, I think it’s the reason we’re so important to the better independent and specialty chains we work with,” he says, believing that those ties will pay greater dividends in 2022 and beyond. “It feels like we’ve become true partners while overcoming the industry challenges together. If we can recapture the business we lost in 2020 Glen Barad, president, Taos and manage the supply chain issues, we should have a very healthy 2022.”

Barad stresses that none of Taos’ recent or future success is possible without its dedicated team of employees. Namely: Bill Langrell, Sylvia Jensen, Deepak Alag, Teresa Johnson, Karolyn Navarro, Don Fulton, Jennifer Kuo, Erica Heck, Ondrea Kurtillo, Rosie Cetina, John Zelayandia, Dianne Stevens, Mike Kasterko, Rob Capodici and Janet Sanchez. “These people are setting a tremendous example for the staff who’ve recently joined our company,” he says. Yet Barad grades them a B+ in 2021. “They did extremely well, but I’d never give an A, no matter how well they did,” he says. “There’s always room to improve. We can never be satisfied; we’re always figuring out how we can be better.” —G.D.

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Aetrex orthotic sales grew double digits in 2021.

INSOLES: AETREX

Grand Scans THE GROWTH OF Aetrex’s orthotics and footwear lines have gone hand-infoot with the success of its cutting-edge foot scanning technology systems. Since 2002, more than 10,000 foot scanner devices have been placed with retailers around the globe, and last year, Aetrex began rolling out its next-generation in-store scanner, the Albert 2 Pro, to rave reviews and success.

Customers who step on the Albert 2 Pro, for about 20 seconds, receive 3-D measurements and pressure point analyses of their feet that can be used to custom-select orthotics and choose footwear that best fit their feet. Aetrex has sold more than 15 million units of its over-the-counter orthotics, which are available for all foot types and footwear styles and include 3-D printed custom orthotics that are created using data from the Albert system.

Matt Schwartz, chief revenue officer, discusses the Albert 2 Pro and how the third-generation, family business thrived during the second year of the pandemic with its all-inclusive scanning, insoles and footwear approach. — B.S. How was business in 2021, all things considered? In 2021, we had recordbreaking orders across the four main categories of our business: Aetrexbranded orthotics, footwear, scanning technology and DTC sales. During the pandemic, we never stopped working. We used it as an opportunity to advance our products and plant the seeds for significant growth in the next few years.

What were some key product highlights of the year? Our Aetrexbranded orthotics saw double-digit growth in 2021 versus two years earlier.

In 2020, we developed the Albert 2 Pro, which represents the cutting edge of foot scan-

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ning technology, and in 2021, we were busy selling it. We booked an enormous amount of orders, and hundreds are going out on the market now, to a broad distribution of retail customers—running, workwear, outdoor, department stores and others. We have also opened up five freestanding stations in heavily trafficked malls, which are driving growth of orthotics and footwear while bringing benefits to consumers. People may be walking in the mall, and outside a Lululemon or an Apple store, they may see this high-tech station, where they can have their feet scanned, see where the pressure points are, transfer the data to their mobile device using a QR code and be introduced to orthotics and footwear digitally. We currently have it in five locations and plan to expand to more.

What were some other notable brand initiatives introduced in 2021? We launched FitGenius, which is part of our foot scanning technology program.

Once customers get their feet scanned in one of thousands of stores, this platform matches their foot profiles with their ideal footwear styles and sizes to provide personalized footwear recommendations, which they can access across the retailer’s digital shopping platforms after leaving the store. To understand the problem FitGenius is designed to solve, think about shopping for shoes online. You order shoes, but when you get them home, they don’t fit right or feel good. FitGenius puts consumers in the position where, when shopping online, they can rank the styles they’re looking for in terms of their ability to fit their unique feet. It’s an incredible ecommerce experience that ties into our scanning technology and makes it less likely consumers will return the shoes they ordered.

What was the toughest challenge in 2021? The biggest challenge was procuring components for our scanning technologies. But because our purchasing teams around the world did a great job working together, we did not have significant issues and we were proud to be able to launch our scanning technology despite the unexpected supply chain problems.

How would you grade your team on its overall performance navigating through such challenges? A+. One thing we’re really proud of over the last two years is that our management team united around a point of view of what’s best for the business. We were able to appeal to the best in people and motivate them to Matt Schwartz, exceed what even they thought Chief Revenue they were capable of doing.

Officer Our people outperformed and our management teams did a great job leading. I’m proud of how much the team was able to produce and what they were able to accomplish during such challenging times. There is a lot of indication that in all the key categories, we’re poised for significant growth.

We’re excited about what everybody accomplished to put us in a position to have this opportunity for growth. march 2022 • footwearplusmagazine.com 33

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PROFILES IN E XCELLENCE

NATIONAL CHAIN: NORDSTROM

Pop Rocks IF YOU BUILD it, shoppers will come. That’s what Nordstrom dreamed up last year in an effort to bring shoppers back (safely) via enticing pop-up shops and selections. Two pop-up of note were Black Founders and Dr. Marten’s, both installed at Nordstrom NYC flagship’s Center Stage.

In celebration of Black History month, the Black Founders pop-up featured eight Black-founded/owned companies spanning beauty, apparel, accessories and footwear. Namely, Jessica Rich, an eponymous label launched in 2017 and worn by such celebrities as Kylie Jenner, Jennifer Lopez and Cardi B. The space had the look and feel of an archive, allowing shoppers to learn more about the brands. “We are committed to improving the diversity of the vendors we partner with, which will help us better serve the needs of our customers,” stated Chris Wanlass, GM for Nordstrom’s NYC Stores.

The Dr. Marten’s pop-up ran last fall. The music venue setting—complete with trusses, stage lighting and graffitied furniture—was kicked off with a live performance by local band Sunflower Bean that was livestreamed on @ NordstromNYC and @ drmartensusa. Customers shopped an limitedrelease range of merchandise, including the new Audrick two-part platform collection.

On the business side, Nordstrom’s Q3 sales rose 18 percent over 2020 and Rock on! The Dr. Marten’s pop at the New York off one percent compared flagship drew huge crowds. to 2019. Nordstrom comp sales in the Southern regions grew eight percent versus 2019 and outperformed the Northern regions.

Comp sales in suburban stores continued to be stronger than urban areas in Q3. “We have long benefited from a commitment to customer service, new and compelling merchandise, innovative brand partnerships and interconnected digital and physical assets,” stated CEO Erik Nordstrom.

Karl Moehring, CEO of Washington Shoe Company, gives high marks for Nordstrom’s flexibility at adapting to the challenges faced in 2021. “They were understanding and a great partner,” he says, noting the two Seattle natives have been partners for decades. “We took a very proactive approach in our communication to the buying team with updates regarding inventory and, in return, they were more accommodating to some of the inventory shifts due to shipping delays.” Top sellers for the company at Nordstrom last year included Chooka’s Eastlake Chelsea boot, kids’ glitter boots from Western Chief and Staheekum slippers.

Another bright spot in 2021, noted Pete Nordstrom, president, involved combining the art of merchandising with data-driven insights to put the right assortment in the right place at the right time. Nordstrom also expanded customer choice counts. Alternative partnership models beyond grew to nearly eight percent of sales, and the company’s recently announced partnerships with Fanatics and ASOS will provide a broader assortment in new and existing categories, without an increase in owned inventory. —G.D.

Dr. Martens x Keith Haring

BOOTS: DR. MARTENS

Keep on Rockin’ CLASSIC, AUTHENTIC BRANDS that people trust have fared well during the pandemic, and Dr. Martens is no exception. A symbol of working-class pride and rebellious self-expression—not to mention a ’90s fashion revival— fueled the brand’s growth in 2021. Revenue rose 16 percent worldwide, driven by strong performance in the Americas.

The classics account for the bulk of Dr. Martens sales. Last year, the Originals line totaled 57 percent of revenue worldwide. Also of note: the debut of the Audrick collection, which paired classic uppers with the new Quad Neoteric sole (stands 1.9 inches tall and features a lightweight EVA midsole on top of a rugged PVC outsole). The brand also scored big with collabs. Partners included New York artist Keith Haring and Stüssy. Sustainability was another focus for Dr. Martens. The company set goals of net zero carbon emissions by 2030 and making all footwear from sustainable materials by 2040.

Here, two leading retailers offer their take on Dr. Martens strength in 2021.

BRIAN BURNETT, SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT/GMM, RACK ROOM SHOES: How important was Dr. Martens to your business in 2021? Superimportant to our overall success. Dr. Martens helps validate to our customers that Rack Room Shoes has the best trend-right brands in the marketplace.

What were some popular styles? With the resurgence of the ’90s trend, specifically starting with combat boots, then the Chelsea boot and now to elevation, we saw the Dr. Martens’ DNA was a winner.

How has your Dr. Martens customer evolved over the years? From a teen/ young-20ish woman to a more fashion-oriented, spirited customer, where age nor gender defines them. They’re also certainly more young at heart, and parents introducing the brand to their kids. Customers today just want to be trend-right, which allows for more Dr. Martens to be a part of many closets.

What are some other reasons fueling Dr. Martens’ success? Dr. Martens is an authentic, iconic heritage brand that customers know and trust, which has emotional and nostalgic ties.

JANICE ABERNETHY, PRESIDENT OF ABBADADDA’S, ATLANTA: How important was Dr. Martens to your stores’ business in 2021? It was our No. 3 brand in our three stores combined. Sales were up 12 percent over 2019 and 26 percent over 2020.

What were some popular selling styles? The Jadon, 1460 8-Eye Smooth, 8-Eye Greasy Leather and Pascal 8-Eye Women’s—all in black.

How has your Dr. Martens customer evolved? Docs used to be more associated with a fringe, punkish consumer. Now it’s quite mainstream, and it’s gotten younger, appealing to the Forever 21 crowd. Docs has always sold well, but the ’90s look is coming back, and that’s certainly helping fuel its success.

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SLIPPERS: UGG

We were also very excited to continue working with Telfar, with whom we announced our collaboration in 2019, and to launch our collaboration with Denim Tears last month.

Slipper Heights

In addition to great product, what were some other notable brand initiatives introduced in 2021? As a part of our sustainability-focused “Feel Good” platform, we launched our Uggrenew Classic Boot refurbishment program.

The brand’s surveys have shown that most of our customers wear their Classic Boots for years, and UGGrenew allows them to love their boots even longer.

To make this happen, we have partnered with NuShoe, a premium shoe repair company, to offer three levels of dedicated service costing $40, $60 and $80.

Continuing our journey toward a more regenerative world, UGGrenew is dedicated to extending the life of our customers’ favorite boots, restoring them by hand with authentic and unparalleled Ugg materials.

WITH PEOPLE WORKING remotely in droves and generally staying closer to home the last two years, Ugg’s slippers have found their way onto more and more feet. The numbers do not lie: “Based on pre-pandemic global slipper sales in 2019, the category increased by 99 percent in 2021,” notes Carole Diarra, vice president of marketing for Ugg, a division of Deckers Brands.

And it wasn’t just slippers. In keeping with the pandemic-era trends toward comfortable, casual clothing and classic brands, the Ugg brand experienced an 18 percent global sales spike across all channels and divisions from 2020 to 2021, according to Diarra, who discussed some Tazz slipper of the banner year’s greatest hits. —B.S. What were some of the key highlights of the year? Our newly launched Tazz platform slipper proved to be a megahit with consumers and celebrities. Seen on Carole Diarra, VP the fashionable feet of “it girls” and models marketing, Ugg like Gigi Hadid and Elsa Hosk, fans have taken to TikTok to showcase how they wear their Tazz mules—a social media sensation Ugg has seen with the iconic Classic Boot in the past. The Lyst even named the Tazz the No. 10 hottest women’s style for Q4. A maximalist take on the timeless Tasman slipper, the Tazz refreshes the familiar silhouette with a 1.5-inch platform sole for boosted cushioning and style. Crafted from the same rich suede as the original, it’s lined in our signature Uggplush wool blend.

What was the biggest surprise of the year?

When we announced our collaboration with Telfar in 2019, we knew the brand had an immensely loyal fanbase, but we were pleasantly overwhelmed with the positive consumer response and unwavering fervor for the collection. (As part of the collaboration, Ugg has adapted various products, including several slippers, with the addition of Telfar’s signature “TC” monogram.)

How would you grade your team on its overall performance navigating through such unprecedented challenges? A+. We always must remember that there are always going to be hurdles to overcome, but it’s how the team addresses and tackles a challenge that matters.

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2/26/22 2:36 PM

Quoddy

Spring Step

OK ZOOMERS Casual, comfortable and versatile, men’s indoor/outdoor slippers are suitable for zoom meetings and coffee runs.

Kyrgies

BY A N N LOY N D B U R TO N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS

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Lamo

caption

Sanuk

Western Chief

Twisted X

Geox

Rockport

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Minnetonka

Birkenstock

Clarks

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Pajar

Naot

Asportuguesas

Fireside by Dearfoams

Ecco

Florsheim

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Papillio by Birkenstock shearling slides.

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Fly London sherpa platform clogs. Opposite: Shearling-lined moccasin booties by Quoddy.

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Gentle Souls by Kenneth Cole sherpa-lined mules. Opposite, clockwise from top: Haflinger suede clog; Fireside by Dearfoams plush slipper; fur and suede slide by Aetrex; Minnetonka patterned shearling slipper.

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This page, from top: Clarks by Green Market Services plush sandal; Arch slide. On model: Staheekum knit slippers.

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Flexus slipper booties.

Opposite: Cougar fur-lined slip-ons.

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Taos wool clogs. Opposite, clockwise from top: Asportuguesas sherpa-lined suede platform clog; Acorn fleece bootie; Naot knit slipper; convertible slipper with quilted upper by Ecco.

Fashion editor: Ann Loynd Burton; model: Cameron Newbill/Supreme Model Management.; hair and makeup: Clelia Bergonzoli/Ray Brown Pro.

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U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

New Leader of Earth Industry veteran Alison Bergen, most recently head of Aerosoles, takes the reins of the comfort company.

waste and supporting thoughtful consumption—is IT IS A job with a world of potential—literally. So as important as making cleaner, more disposable says new Earth OpCo CEO Alison Bergen on why goods,” she says. “It’s a balance, and we’re still refining she jumped at the chance to lead the 52-year-old and carving out our path on this front.” comfort company and its portfolio of Earth, Kalso, Bergen believes she’s up for the challenge. She Earth Origins and Earth Spirit brands. possesses nearly 20 years of experience in the conBergen cites Earth’s tremendous history in sumer and retail industries, most recently as CEO of wellness and quality, and its strong connection to Aerosoles, where she led the company’s turnaround the environment as key assets. “With a little bit of from post-bankruptcy acquisition in 2018 to its sale forward-thinking development, the product and to American Exchange this year. Prior to Aerosoles, brand are more relevant than ever and that opens up Bergen held leadership positions at Diane Von a tremendous opportunity to connect with a much Furstenberg, Michael Kors and broader audience,” she says.

Louis Vuitton. She believes her The exec’s first orders of recent Aerosoles experience is business: to bring clarity and particularly beneficial. “The focus to Earth 2.0. “What is brands share many similar the product evolution and who attributes in product and disare the critical partners we can tribution, but more so in where build deeper, prosperous relathey are in their lifecycle,” she tionships with going forward, offers. “Great businesses with a be it wholesale distribution or strong core, talent and relevant the consumer directly,” Bergen DNA that feel a little out of says, adding that the goal for relevancy. I love it because just this year is to modernize the like Aerosoles, I was able to product and reintroduce some provide clarity, direction and of the better product that was add value both as a merchant— historically a very important my true love—on the product driver for Earth. “There are so side as well as discipline on the many incredible advancements in financial side.” materials and technology, and we Then there’s the female execuhave a tremendous opportunity to tive perspective—a woman’s deliver superior quality—durable, touch that Bergen believes is multi-purpose footwear that needed at Earth. While the lasts for a lifetime.” company possesses attractive Also on the agenda is strengthqualities in sustainability and ening the company’s already wellness, coupled with it being strong to commitment to the a family-owned business for 50 environment. “Earth is doing a years (last year Windsong Capital lot more than some other brands, became a majority stakeholder) but we can and will be doing a Earth CEO Alison Bergen; a new hue that has created a “wonderfully lot more to reduce our carbon for this spring from the successful friendly and organic culture that footprint,” she says. “We feel a Birdline collection. we want to preserve,” Bergen says strong obligation to deliver on it needs to be complimented with better discipline. this promise given the weight of our name!” And “We need to listen to our partners where we might while Bergen says not every shoe can be built with not have been the easiest to work with as a result 100 percent recycled materials or chemical-free yet, of our more fluid process,” she says. “I’m not sure a concerted effort to swap out components with if that implies a female perspective is helpful, but more sustainable alternatives when possible and as leaders we need to be empathetic, and we need maintaining a commitment to quality while reducing to organized and multi-task as we drive creative impact on the environment will get the company to evolution but also fiscal control. I’ve been told some a very different place in five to 10 years. “Another women have those traits.” —Greg Dutter part of this conversation is slow fashion—reducing

Nice Threads Vintage rug boutique New England Loom launches wholesale collection.

IS THAT A rug you’re wearing?

New England Loom, a Wenham, MA, vintage rug boutique, is stepping into the wholesale shoe business with a collection of mules featuring uppers made of colorfully patterned rug remnants, so no two shoes are alike. Lindsay Graziano, who owns the business with her husband Josh, says the extension into footwear, beginning this fall, happened organically.

“We were chatting with one of our rug wholesalers in Turkey about purchasing some kilim rug fragments and I mentioned that they would be really cool on shoes. And he was like, ‘I know a guy who does that!’” Graziano says. After an introduction, work on product molds and samples began and, a few months later, the first shipment arrived.

“I was so impressed by the quality. Each pair is handmade with a lot of time and attention to detail and we’ve received amazing feedback,” Graziano says, noting they began featuring styles on their website about a year and a half ago. “We load new products onto our website every Sunday night, and footwear is consistently among the most sought-after items.”

The mules feature high quality and sustainable materials like leather lined, wood block heels and fragments of vintage kilim rugs

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U P C L O S E C O M F O RT

Rug facts: No two New England Loom mules are aliike.

that are generally too damaged to sell otherwise. “It’s amazing to be able to repurpose the material and give it new life as shoes,” Graziano says, believing that part of the appeal lies in the beautiful designs people know and love

in vintage rugs. “They’re also great for adding a pop of color and texture to any outfit. We joke that they are finally the rugs you can rock inside and outside of the house.”

Now the couple is thinking bigger with the launch of a wholesale collection. Production is done in small batches of about 250 pairs per order, giving the company the ability to scale up or down as needed. Graziano says the distribution is focused on retailers that sell other unique and one-of-a-kind items to a more boho customer. Targets include Anthropologie, Free People and Urban Outfitters. “Because no two shoes are alike, they’re also a great fit for smaller, more curated boutique retailers,” she adds. The SRP is $189 for heeled styles and $165 for flats. As for potential target customers, the appeal has been broad so far, according to Graziano. “We’re seeing a wide range of women aged 25 to 65 buying one—or more—pairs,” she reports.

New England Loom has already expanded its offerings to include handmade kilim duffel bags and fanny packs with the same supplier. Looking further out, the plan is to expand into kilim sandals at some point. In the meantime, the mule patterns change from season to season based on the rug fragments used. “There’s a market for sustainable, unique and fresh shoes that represent the season’s hottest trends,” Graziano says. “While mules are an industry standard, our colors and patterns offer consumers a one-of-a-kind look that ties in with current trends.” —G.D.

YOUR BRAND. YOUR STYLE. YOUR PARTNER. Specialists in Indoor/Outdoor Slippers and Casual Footwear

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2/25/22 11:16 AM

EDITOR’S PICKS

Aetrex

Alegria

Jambu

D E S I G N E R C H AT

MAYBE IT WAS Marion Ayonote’s first shoerelated memory that planted the seeds to her becoming a successful designer. Specifically, the magenta pink stilettos that the, then 12 year old, “wore everywhere” while attending boarding school until the day that one of the heels snapped. Ayonote loved the shoes so much that she tried to fix them—with a hammer and some bubble gum. (True story.)

Ayonote hammered the protruding nail back into the heel and glued the shoe back together with the gum. She flew home in her beloved pink heels, but as she got off the plane, she noticed her sister laughing uncontrollably. “Apparently, the bubble gum was all over my ankle,” she recalls. “It was so embarrassing. I limped to the car and knew I’d never wear them again.”

Fast forward to 2000 when the Cordwainers College alumnae launched her eponymous label and, in the two decades since, has built a strong following. Those fans include what Ayonote describes as HNW (high net worth) women, some of whom happen to also be celebrities such as Tyra Banks, Keri Hilson, Gabrielle Union, Kelly Clarkson, Ashanti, Christina Milian and Lady Gaga’s stylist who bought the Conqueror boot for the Joanne tour.

Ayonote is known for her striking silhouettes, decorative detailing and playful design—all wearable and whimsical in equal measure.

Asked about signature design elements and Ayonote answers, “Shape, form, balance and texture.” She adds, “The aqua sole, a raised tongue symbolic of a shield, unique heel shapes, trimmings and the finest quality leather available.”

Ayonote taps into her rich cultural heritage for design inspiration. That spans her childhood in Africa, extensive travel (including many flea markets along the way), an international education and being a patron of the arts. It is a potpourri of experience that the award-winning designer dips into each season for her Italian-crafted collections. For Autumn/Winter ’22, the overall theme is dressage.

“Navy, crimson, black, brown, cream and gold,” Ayonote says of the season’s palette. “And suede, kidskin and metallics, pointed toe boots, square toe sandals and bespoke heel shapes.”

Who is the Marion Ayonote woman and what is she looking for in her shoe purchases? She is sophisticated, digitally savvy and most importantly, selective about the brands she buys. She is intelligent, well-informed, favors authenticity and seeks the finest quality footwear.

Where do you look for inspiration? Anything that captivates me.

E D I TO R ’ S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S

M A R I O N AY O N OT E

Cougar

ARE YOU P LUSH I NG ?

Fuzzy slippers will be the envy of everyone.

In what way might your background be an asset in the designer shoe world? I’m not entirely sure, but I get told my cultural heritage is an advantage to how I interpret my work. Nevertheless, I believe in creative freedom, the ability to absorb what’s around you or what you imagine something to be, and interpret it in a way your mind allows you to. In addition to form and function, there needs to be excitement.

Has the pandemic altered your approach to design? It’s tricky as I specialize in occasion footwear. However, I have expanded the range to include lounge loafers and slippers.

How was business this past year—the good, the challenges, the surprises?

The good: I had time to restrategize my future goals. The challenges: the aftermath of an 18-month lockdown and the knock-on effect for the plans we had set for 2020/21. The surprises: orders for the more expensive handbags and some very exciting opportunities for the brand moving forward. I’m cautiously optimistic about 2022 and our plan for scaling up.

What was the best piece of design advice you’ve ever received? A very famous shoe designer, who acted as a mentor, advised me to focus on my work, not draw attention to self and not look at what others are doing.

Who are some designers you admire?

Golly, there are quite a few. I think Roland Mouret is brilliant, Phoebe Philo, Manolo Blahnik, of course, and an amazing Nigerian designer, Deola Sagoe. They all have one thing in common: authenticity!

What is the perfect shoe? A perfectly crafted, almond toe stiletto.

What shoe must every woman have in her closet? A perfectly crafted, almond toe stiletto, or our Conqueror boot.

What shoe style needs to die now? LOL! Badly crafted platforms with shiny patent uppers. Hideous.

What do you love most about designing shoes? The reaction I get from those who make them and those who want them.

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continued from page 18 the company about improving diversity in their product cycle and mentioned his plans to reopen an HBCU in Detroit. The retailer offered to contribute funds, and is now a founding partner. “They immediately understood the importance of what this could mean for our industry,” Edwards says. That support led to the partnership with CCS, an established design school that offers larger infrastructure and guidance.

Still there have been hurdles. For starters, the HBCU had been closed for eight years, so it needed to be accredited. That required creating a bill, because there were no laws in Michigan that allowed a college that had closed to reopen.

Also, the state had never officially recognized Lewis College of Business as an HBCU. That meant another bill. “In two months, we wrote and got two legislative bills passed,” Edwards says. “That’s lightning-quick.”

Edwards attributes the expediency in making PLC a reality to its importance to Michigan and the design industries. Seeing it all come together is a dream come true, he says. “We’re officially recognized as an HBCU. The Gilbert Family Foundation and Target have blessed us with a huge jump start to get to this point along with CCS. Without them, none of this would be happening.”

SCENE 6: BRIGHT FUTURE PLC’s first class is this May, sponsored by Carhartt, a Detroit brand. Additional five-week classes on the docket this year are sponsored by New Balance, Versace, Jimmy Choo, Adidas, J. Crew, Proctor & Gamble and a Nike program with Serena Williams. “We’ll create a semester program starting this fall, where kids who live nearby can take classes one day a week,” Edwards says. “In the fall of ’23, we’ll start working toward our own degree program and begin to add majors like furniture and automotive design, packaging and graphics.”

PLC will initially be housed in the CCS building. Foot Locker is funding the footwear samples room. Hanes is building the apparel samples room. Herman Miller is providing furniture for the main studio. “We have amazing partners that believe in the vision of what PLC will be for our industry,” Edwards says, adding that students will stay in the St. Regis Hotel until dormitories are built on a new campus.

The fact that PLC has gotten this far, this fast defies the odds. Never in Edwards’ wildest dreams, as a poor kid in Inglewood, did he foresee this wonderful life unfolding. “That’s why I’m so grateful every day,” he says. “I feel like I’m winning every day, because I’m not supposed to be here.”

NPD industry analyst Matt Powell, says the reason Edwards is here starts with his tremendous design talent. “There are few sneaker designers who have shoes available for as long as Dr. Edwards has; his legacy speaks for itself,” he says, noting that his efforts to help people of color adds to that legacy. “This latest venture will solidify his work.”

PLC is just the latest chapter in Edwards’ odds-defying career. He’s creating an incredible industry legacy, and there’s much more to come. Not bad for the former mailroom guy at LA Gear. “Seeing what Mr. D’Wayne has accomplished, inspiring would be a harsh understatement,” his former student Johnson says. “D’Wayne is a revolutionary icon living in today’s time.

My hope is that people recognize the great, selfless work he is doing to elevate aspirational creatives—more importantly, aspirational creatives of color. I am extremely blessed and proud to call myself a protégé of one of the greatest men of our time.”

High praise, indeed. Then again, it’s not every day someone changes an entire industry in a way that benefits everyone involved. “When I left Jordan I wrote down three things,” Edwards says. “One, make people forget I ever designed shoes, because if do, then I did something really good on the other side. Two, design the school that I wish I’d been able to attend and I’d hire from. Three, leave this industry way better than when I entered it.

“That’s been my journey the whole time,” Edwards says, noting he has only one regret. “I would love to sit down again with my two brothers, Michael and Ronnie, because they were the ones who taught me how to draw. I’m having the career that they didn’t have a chance to have.” Edwards adds, “It’s been an unexpected life that I’ve been blessed to have. And I’m not done yet.” •

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