Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2010 • June

THE SOURCE FOR RETAILERS • JUNE 2010 $10.00

FORECASTING NEXT SPRING’S RUNAWAY HITS SUMMER CIRCUIT: MARKETS NOT TO MISS INSIDE THE USRA’S MAY EVENT TREND SPOTTING: DUCK BOOT SEASON

WO(MEN)

MASCULINE AND FEMININE LOOKS BEND THE RULES

See the Børn and Børn Kids Spring 2011 Collections at FFANY Studio 450, 450 West 31st Street, 12th Floor, New York, New York

8 Back to Basics Streamlined and focused, the summer trade show circuit is getting back to business.

By Angela Velasquez

10 Q&A: White Mountain Partners Greg Connors and Kevin Mancuso revisit their company’s 30-year history and reinvention as a global sourcing operation.

By Greg Dutter

16 Spring Pickin’s Taking the turn into 2011, designers draw from the ’70s, American heritage and the natural world.

By Melissa Knific

18 Refreshed & Revitalized

26

Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director

Metal Heart

Nancy Campbell Creative Director EDITORIAL Leslie Shiers Managing Editor Melissa Knific Features Editor Angela Velasquez Associate Editor Christine Bove Editorial Intern

Feminine and masculine collide, heightening the androgyny factor in Fall ’10 designer dress wear.

4 Editor’s Note 6 Op-Ped 24 This Just In 25 Trend Spotting 34 Shoe Salon 36 Kids 37 Street 40 Made You Look

A recap of USRA’s May Event, which sparked conversations, friendships, orders, healthy debates and ideas for improving business. By Leslie Shiers

CONTRIBUTORS Dorothy Hong Photojournalist Bahar Shahpar Stylist Jamie Wetherbe West Coast Editor Kathy Passero Editor at Large Paola Polidori European Editor ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Advertising Director Rita O’Brien Account Executive Erwin Pearl Special Accounts Laurie Guptill Production Manager ADMINISTRATION Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager Theodore Hoffman Special Projects Director Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager Sanford Kearns Webmaster

22 Don’t Knock It A law expert explains why a recent patent-infringement ruling in Crocs’ favor serves as a warning to all knockoff artists. By Greg Dutter

CREATIVE Trevett McCandliss Art Director

On the cover: Chie Mihara heels. Jane Oh jacket; Wolford pants and hosiery; Worth & Worth hat.

This page: Jean-Michel Cazabat sequined pump.

Vintage top; VPL pants; Worth & Worth hat; Lavvicci ring. Photography by Aneta Bartos.

Candela

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 8 West 38th Street, Suite 201, New York, NY, 10018-0150. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2010 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 8 West 38th Street, Suite 201 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 nyeditorial@ symphonypublishing.com Circulation Office 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@ symphonypublishing.com CORPORATE Symphony Publishing NY Corporate Headquarters 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Sid Davis, Group Publisher

editor’s note instincts on a recovery 7

Are We There Yet? IT’S APPROACHING NEARLY two years since the initial shock and awe of the financial crisis shook capitalism to its core and a little over a year since the scare brought retail to its knees. But as predicted, many major retailers’ Q1 2010 sales rebounded from historic lows—even if the expectations were primarily based on “it can’t get worse than this” logic.

American consumers appear calmer (although numb might be a more accurate diagnosis) and willing to shop again—at least a little. But the question can be heard from the proverbial backseat: Are we there yet? Has the U.S. economy (let’s ignore Europe’s debt crisis for the moment) turned the corner? My gut, unfortunately, says “not yet.” It feels like we are on more stable ground, but the road ahead is not smooth. And while it sure beats the queasy freefall of last year, until there is sustainable growth—i.e. businesses hiring in bulk—then there’s yet to be a legitimate recovery taking root.

Let’s face it, consumers shop a whole lot differently when there’s a weekly paycheck acting as an enabler. In addition, those fortunate enough to have jobs will shop more confidently once the looming fear of the unemployment line subsides. The financial crisis has since morphed into an unemployment crisis, and while the Street still has plenty of jitters, it’s pink-slip paranoia that

weighs far more heavily on consumer confidence. The recent unemployment data is encouraging, but it doesn’t yet project a clean bill of health.

Just how this slow recovery impacts our world of shoes remains to be seen.

Many pundits believe the American shopper has been forever scarred by living in a world where frugality is the new black. However, it seems too early to tell whether any changes in habit are permanent 180s or just knee-jerk reactions. Once again, in my gut I remain skeptical that consumers have changed all that much. If a recovery is indeed already taking hold in under three years, I suspect the shock will fade rather than profoundly alter how America shops. Unlike my parents’ generation, who lived through 10-plus years of the Great Depression followed by WWII, this crisis—hopefully—will pale in comparison and, for better or worse, not have as long-lasting effects.

If consumers have learned anything, I hope it’s how to live more within their means. The financial hangover of too much debt is simply not sustainable. Luckily, within that bigger picture, the world still needs and wants shoes.

And on a scale of indulgences, a nifty new pair is small potatoes compared to splurging on, let’s say, a boat. The need to cut back is critical, but let’s not get too carried away. Consumers most likely will continue to be cautious for the foreseeable future, with many spending less overall. But within that pie, shoes should fare quite well—just like past economic downturns have proven.

So are we there yet? My gut tells me we are getting there. Slowly.

Greg Dutter, Editorial Director

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In the Running

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RUNNING IS HOT. Participation is up as many Americans have turned to a relatively affordable form of exercise, and many more partake in a growing number of charity-related fun runs and walks. Moreover, the industry is on the verge of a potential radical barefoot technology revolution that may change how people run altogether and, subsequently, the types of shoes they will buy. Thanks largely to the buzz being generated by the glove-like Vibram FiveFingers (sales have leapt from $400,000 to an estimated $40 million since the shoes hit the market in 2006) and the debut of barefoot styles by market verifiers Nike (Free) and Adidas (AdiZero), running is the talk of the town. The barefoot topic has been debated on HBO’s “Real Sports,” featured in The New York Times and posted all over the blogosphere. There’s also pavement proof: FiveFingers are now a regular sighting in New York—we’ve spotted them on a number of Central Park runners as well as the odd fashion-forward downtown hipster—and many elite personal trainers are sporting the shoes.

Not surprisingly, the industry is keeping stride with the expanding and evolving consumer base. Running specialty brands like Brooks, Saucony and Asics have introduced—or are on the verge of releasing—their own barefoot shoe interpretations, and retailers are catering to the technical needs and preferences of more serious enthusiasts. The Sports Authority, for example, plans to launch a new smaller concept, S.A. Elite, with a focus on higher-end footwear and apparel—much of it running related. Not surprisingly, the concept looks to be similar to the formats found in the healthy independent running specialty store channel—one of the few tiers that have weathered the recession relatively well. The first S.A. Elite location will open in Denver this August. “S.A. Elite’s format was the brainchild of extensive consumer research and customer insight, including advanced basket analysis, ethnography and other innovative primary research techniques,” says Jeff Schumacher, the chain’s executive vice president. Sounds as scientific as the tech-filled shoes it will sell.

The stores will range in size from 12,000 to 15,000 square feet (the typical Sports Authority location is about 42,000 square feet). S.A. Elite will feature high-end lighting fixtures, custom brand shops and highly knowledgeable store associates, COO Greg Waters adds.

Apparently, consumers are willing to pay more for the expert service and technical products found in specialty locations. According to a recent NPD Group study, runners pay an average of $14 more than leisure wearers. “Purchases of running shoes that are ‘used for running’ continue to show strength as core runners remain passionate about their lifestyle,” notes Marshal Cohen, NPD’s chief industry analyst.

The running buzz offers a contact high for our industry overall. Historically, tech breakthroughs start here and then filter out to other categories.

And any time footwear is front-page news and, in the case of barefoot technology, subject to intense debate that delves into millions of years of human evolution… Well, I say we run with it. —Greg Dutter

www.aetrex.com

See us at FFANY, Hilton Suite 4229 June 8-10, 2010

SPECIAL REPORT

Streamlined and refocused, the summer trade show circuit gets back to business. By Angela Velasquez

THE SMOKE AND MIRRORS ERA of trade shows is over—at least, according to the show coordinators working overtime to reel retailers and exhibitors back to market this August. There is little argument amongst show management, manufacturers and retailers that the recession has ushered in a new landscape of wiser retailers with a sharp eye for value and exhibitors choosing to invest more in their product—not disposable trade show tricks.

As Laura Conwell O’Brien, executive director of the Southeastern Shoe Travelers Association’s The Atlanta Shoe Market (TASM) puts it, “We’re about shoe business, not show business.”

It wouldn’t be trade show season, however, without tension in the air over show dates, travel expenses and competing exhibitor lists. Still, show directors are eager to expand upon the optimistic vibes of last February and working to make their respective markets a worthy stop on the circuit.

Three months out, shows are reporting “amazing retention” and “growth across the board.” FFANY president Joe Moore notes the show’s 30th year is shaping up to be its biggest ever. February’s attendance more than doubled from the year prior. Moore anticipates the next edition, taking place Aug. 35, will see a similar increase in traffic. “It’s proof that vendors are getting well covered by retailers and that FFANY is a buying and selling show,” he adds.

WSA president Tom Nastos says now that the hardest edge of the economic downturn has passed, “people are feeling comfortable again and are looking for opportunities.”

Speaking of opportunities, relocating WSA (taking place Aug. 9-11) to Las Vegas’ Sands Expo—and securing that venue for the next five shows—was a chance to create the one-stop shop the show’s management sought. “People wanted WSA under one roof,” Nastos explains. “We’ve found a place that accommodates everyone. This will make it a significantly better show.”

The Atlanta show also banks on its convenience as a draw for retailers.

“The beauty of TASM and part of its success is that the entire show [next taking place at the Cobb Galleria Centre Aug. 13-15] is all under one roof and it has an open booth format, which allows retailers to easily shop for new lines,” O’Brien notes. With time being a hot commodity, coordinators consider the single venue a big incentive for buyers. It’s a good move for manufacturers, too. TRU Show coordinator Phyllis Wright explains that having one roof means “exhibitors are all on a level playing field,” and it gives everyone the chance to see the breadth of the industry. [Go to trushow.com for show dates and locals.]

Retailers get a double dose of fashion at FN Platform (Aug. 17-19 at the Las Vegas Convention Center). Chris DeMoulin, president of Magic International and executive vice president of Advanstar Fashion Group, touts FN Platform as a well-merchandised, head-to-toe show—thanks in part to its shared roof with WWDMagic’s apparel market. “That is one major way FN Platform is different from the rest. You can see footwear with ready-to-wear and see how trends are represented across all fashion categories,” he says.

Coordinators agree that in order for a retailer to stay in business, buyers 8 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2010

SALT LAKE CITY

NEW YORK

must bring in fresh inventory that addresses the comprehensive scope of the industry. “If you’re staying home and relying on reps, you’re isolating yourself from the rest of the market,” Nastos remarks.

According to Outdoor Retailer (OR) coordinator Kenji Haroutunian, this rings particularly true for its market, where consumers often rely on retailers’ technical recommendations. As such, he encourages retailers to attend OR’s Summer Market Open Air Demo (taking place Aug. 2, prior to the Aug. 3-6 show) at its new location, Salt Lake City’s Jordanelle Reservoir. There, they can field-test vendors’ new products. “Retailers are focused on what’s in their face now, but they have to think about the future,” he says. “The pace of change in this business is so fast,” he adds, noting that it includes the evolution of service, manufacturing and social media. At OR, attendees can stay connected through up-to-the-minute Twitter updates, while TRU Show is introducing a mobile app that allows buyers to locate booths by category on their handheld devices.

Reminders of the economic downturn still linger as shows seek ways to cut attendees’ costs via hotel deals, free lunch, local transportation and open seminars. Similarly, manufacturers have realized they don’t need gimmicky booths to draw attention. “These days, everyone is about the ROI and the bottom line,” O’Brien says. Leanne Milliken, marketing manager for the San Diego-based Action Sports Retailer show (happening Aug. 13-15), says that brands are being more realistic about spending, which suits retailers’ tastes.

“Giant corporate booths are intimidating and off-putting. People are tired of booths that are closed in with four walls and require a password to enter,” agrees DeMoulin. FN Platform’s inaugural show in February presented a sleek environment of simple white turnkey booths and lifestyle lounges (complete with a pool table, chandeliers and an abundance of foliage) which, according to DeMoulin, retailers enjoyed. “It was a welcoming environment,” he says. Nevertheless, DeMoulin reports that—upon vendor request—there will be more opportunity for branding going forward. Booth interiors will be tweaked this time around, he explains, but they won’t stray too far from the original concept.

At ASR, most exhibitors are electing to use turnkey booths to cut costs, Milliken notes. “Structures are expensive, but we’re allowing retailers to customize these structures,” she says, adding that exhibitors will be able to choose their preferred racks, shelves and graphics.

Just what the future of trade shows may hold remains to be seen. If the economy enters a boom phase perhaps a new booth arms race will ensue.

“People overreact when the economy is good and when it is bad,” Nastos says.

In the aftermath of recent seasons’ “doomsday vibes,” as Moore describes, even the smallest movements toward pre-recession business is a leap. “Shoes are not jumping off the shelf, but hell, it’s better than 2008,” Moore says. •

ILLUSTRATION BY SUSAN KENT

Back to Basics

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P I O N E E R b S P I R I T

O&A

Commemorating the brand’s 30th anniversary, White Mountain partners Greg Connors and Kevin Mancuso offer a firsthand account of how a small American manufacturer evolved into a successful worldwide sales and marketing-based sourcing operation. By Greg Dutter

YOU KNOW TWO people have been working together for a long time when they can complete each other’s thoughts almost seamlessly. It usually reflects a comfort factor, an understanding of the role each individual plays in the business and strong agreement in the corporate philosophy as well as the direction in which the company is headed. White Mountain’s Greg Connors and Kevin Mancuso, two of the four partners (with brother Nick Connors and Peter Fong) are a perfect example. When asked to reflect on their most memorable moments at the company, now celebrating its 30th year, their responses intertwine, each adding to the other’s recollection because they lived it together. Their bond is solid and it doesn’t take long to realize that Connors and Mancuso’s working relationship is also a friendship that runs deep.

Connors says his most memorable moment was seeing White Mountain’s first-ever shoe go down the production line in their little factory in Lisbon, NH. Their initial styles were named after the partners’ daughter; (original partner) Frank Ferrelli’s oldest daughter, Alison, was bestowed the debut honor. Connors notes that virtually all of the components in the Alison were from vendors that extended the fledgling company credit as it struggled to get off the ground. “The design had nothing to do with what was hot in the market, it was all about what we could afford,” he says with a chuckle. But the Alison ended up doing well and kept the new company busy in its first year. Connors recalls feeling an overwhelming sense of accomplishment from building the team and getting the factory up and running.

Mancuso, who joined White Mountain as a partner in 1989, recalls two milestones that happened very close together. The first was the closing of the Lisbon factory in 1994—a gut-wrenching decision, particularly for the Connors brothers who had lived in the area all of their lives and had grown up with many of the factory’s workers. However, the cost and logistics involved to manufacture shoes in the States was simply no longer viable. “The four of us thought we were going to lose our homes and everything else,” Mancuso recalls. “It was that stressful.” But better days were to come. He remembers the development of White Mountain’s Monica clog, which skyrocketed and saved the company. “It was an Italian import and it really changed our whole approach to the business,” says Mancuso, noting the timing couldn’t have been better as the partners’ backs were against the wall. “It was a near-death experience,” Connors agrees.

10

Left to right: Peter Fong, Greg Connors, Nick Connors and Kevin Mancuso.

“We couldn’t get the samples made in time,” Mancuso continues. “I was literally calling up friends in the industry and asking them to buy 4,000 to 5,000 pairs of clogs that we were going to make...” The company didn’t even have an image of the shoe to sell from, Connors adds. “We didn’t have anything and they were giving us orders, which was very gratifying.” The clog was a true overnight success and, according to Mancuso, the company soon began importing millions.

Still trawling Memory Lane, Connors recalls how the two original partners—the late Ferrelli and since retired Gerry Dameshek—were integral pieces to White Mountain’s rebirth as an import-driven sales and marketing company. Connors says Dameshek, a line builder who was very dogged about interpreting new shoes, first pushed to make that clog when the rest of the partners were unaware of its potential. And Ferrelli, whose parents were first-generation Italian immigrants and therefore he spoke the language fluently, played a huge part in establishing the factory contacts. “It’s just fitting that Frank and Gerry played a very big role in the financial turnaround and how our company would be run going forward,” Connors says.

Connors and Mancuso also quickly cite the invaluable contributions Fong made to White Mountain upon his arrival as a partner in 1989. Having first sourced out of Italy and later Brazil, Mexico, Eastern Europe and Taiwan, the White Mountain management team knew the next frontier was mainland China. “We were just starting to explore the mainland,” Mancuso says.

“Peter was sent over, and he eventually made all of our contacts.”

Fong, who was originally an accountant, had been a co-worker of Man-

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O&A others have failed to adapt. The proof, Connors cuso’s in the early ’70s at Vulcan, a footwear says, occurred recently when he came across a components supplier, and he later followed Top 10 customer list from White Mountain’s Mancuso to Maine Woods. There, Mancuso second or third year: “None of those retailers exwas national sales manager and assisted in line ist today,” he reports. building. When the Connors brothers invited While many factors go into achieving such Mancuso to join their team, the first thing he longevity, Connors—whose grandfather was a did was recommend they make Fong a partner as well. Mancuso says he’ll never forget how they hired Fong basically sight unseen. “Greg said, ‘Kevin, if he’s associated with you—and we know what type of individual you are—then we will assume Peter is What are you reading? Kevin What did you want to be the same way.’” Adds Mancuso, “I Mancuso: “A World Without when you grew up? GC: I think we have that same regard for End” by Ken Follett. It’s about wanted to be the catcher for the all of our employees.” He cites two in English society in the 1300s.

Boston Red Sox, but I wasn’t as particular: Robert Geller, president Greg Connors: “Let the good as Carlton Fisk. of White Mountain’s branded sales Great World Spin” by Colum KM: I wanted to be successful (including the Rialto and newly McCann. It’s about New York and appreciated by my peers. launched Cliffs brands), and Dennis City in the ’70s.

That’s how I was raised.

Eichin, president of the company’s private label division. “They are What famous person in hisWhat is your motto? GC: “God two wonderful people who have tory to you most admire? is in the details.” been working with us for close to 20 GC: Barack Obama.

KM: I’ve got two that vex our years. They are treated as part of the KM: Abraham Lincoln; a employees: “There are many family, and we try to treat all of our shrewd president who appoint- reasons for failure but never a employees that way.” ed all the people who opposed good excuse,” and “Self praise is With offices in Lisbon (at the him to his cabinet so he could no praise.” original factory, which now houses watch them. the company’s shipping, adminisWho is the world’s most influtrative and financials departments); If you could hire anyone, who ential person in fashion? KM: Westwood, MA, (sales, product dewould it be? GC: Bill Belichick. Coco Chanel. Her influence and velopment and customer service He’s a great detail person and styling transcends to this day. operations); and Dongguan, China, manager. I want a tough, noWhite Mountain’s family spans the nonsense guy.

What is your favorite homeglobe and reflects a mini United NaKM: Steve Jobs and Stephen town memory? GC: Memorial tions. In the 50-person-strong China Spielberg, for their creativity.

Day weekend and the opening production office, for example, there of Little League baseball seaare Taiwanese and Chinese workers, What was your first-ever pay- son in Littleton, NH. We played a number of Brazilian product develing job? GC: When I was 15, I a triple header. opment people, a handful of former started working summers—for KM: I grew up in Newton, MA, Yugoslavian (now-Serbian) tech$1 an hour—in the cutting and the memory I look back to nicians and many quality-control room of a shoe factory. most is my first Red Sox game staffers who hail from India. “It’s KM: A sales rep for a wholesale with my father. They played the a real mixed bag but something we floor covering company.

Washington Senators. are very proud of,” Connors offers.

“All have fairly significant cultural differences, yet at the end of the day, we still manage to be something of a shoemaker and whose father owned several shoe family and get the work done.” factories (some of which he later sold to Don Getting it done for three decades now has alMunro of Munro shoes)—reveals one key comlowed White Mountain to significantly expand ponent: “We are open to other cultures and we its portfolio of branded and private label and respect difference. We don’t frustrate ourselves steadily grow its sales. It’s a feat easier said than by trying to have people adapt to us; rather, we done, especially taking into account the draadapt to them.” matic changes the industry has endured over White Mountain has come off a solid year of the past three decades and the fact that so many

OFF THE CUFF

12 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2010

growth despite the recession, and it has not lost any steam in 2010 as it readies to deliver its newest brand, Cliffs by White Mountain, this summer. Business is good and the four partners are bullish on the prospects for continued growth in the years to come. That’s because regardless of how the industry and the world around them changes, their resolution to be the quickest to adapt and react never tires. With more than a century of combined shoe industry experience between the four partners, those entrepreneurial survival traits are simply instinctive. “I always felt that the second we stop moving forward, we should toss in the towel,” Mancuso says.

“Particularly in the fashion business, you can’t sit and enjoy the few successes you may have. Because while you do, there will be 10 people passing you by.”

“Maybe if we had been smart, we would have been doctors, lawyers or Indian chiefs,” Connors interjects with a laugh. “But we didn’t, and we ended up in a business that we know quite a bit about and like a lot.”

Thirty years ago, could you have ever envisioned how White Mountain has since evolved?

Greg Connors: Our main objective back then was just to stay employed, but the odds seemed stacked against us. It was a very difficult time in the economy— interest rates and inflation were both in the double digits and credit was difficult to come by. In addition, manufacturing was on the decline, and here we were trying to start a business. In fact, we were out of work because our previous company had just closed all of its factories, putting about 600 people out of work in Lisbon, alone. Basically, we wanted to manufacture shoes and employ some of these people. While imports were certainly a part of the equation at that point, we concentrated on manufacturing and limiting ourselves to what we did well. We tried to keep the mix tight and come up with shoes that represented value to our customers.

Is there anything that has remained constant in this business since you founded White Mountain?

GC: The need to inspire trust with your customers and the commitment to quality and value from your employees. Those fundamentals al-

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ways apply. But apart from those philosophical concepts, everything has changed about this business.

Kevin Mancuso: From the four original partners to the current four, there has always been a good understanding of how shoes are made. We also have always had a good general understanding of the shoe business. Of course, the customer base and the whole environment have changed. Most of those small entrepreneurial companies did not transcend to become marketing- and sales-based import companies. While we experienced difficult times in the mid-’90s, we were able to acclimate ourselves to this new environment.

A hands-on understanding of how shoes are actually made surely makes you part of a dying breed, no?

GC: Yes. The next generation in the U.S. might be smart, talented and imaginative about product with respect to sales and marketing, but none have ever darkened the door of a shoe factory.

KM: There’s simply no infrastructure for a young person to learn those skills today. When I fi rst came into the shoe business, there was a thriving domestic manufacturing base. I learned the components end of the business while at Vulcan and my next stop was working for the then-largest shoe factory under one roof, Lawrence Made in Lawrence, MA. They used to make 54,000 pairs a day, and that’s where I learned shoe manufacturing.

GC: This scarcity of experience is becoming true even in places like Brazil and Europe. There’s no real next generation of young shoemakers. The manufacturing has primarily concentrated in China, and that gives us all a little pause. With so much turmoil in that country, the challenge over the next six or seven years will be how to deal with those issues, because it doesn’t look like there’s a “next place” on the immediate horizon. In the 30 years that we have been in business, there has always been a next place: from New England to the southern U.S. to Europe to southeastern Brazil to northern Brazil to Taiwan to China. We have always been gypsies, and now we are moving around China—further north along the coast as well as inland north and west.

Might production one day come full circle back to the U.S.?

KM: I don’t see that happening.

GC: It would be tough. The vibrant infrastructure that supported shoe manufacturing—the tanneries and components business—is gone. To re-create that would be very hard. There are no technicians or people with a history of working in shoe factories to even do it.

So footwear companies have no choice but to try and adapt.

GC: Yes. Three years ago, we were sourcing 85 to 90 percent of our product out of six or seven factories all within 45 minutes of our Dongguan office. Today, even taking into account our growth, we are sourcing from 25 factories in four different provinces and six different cities. It used to be a car ride to visit the factories; now it takes getting on a plane. It’s a lot more challenging to juggle the balls when you are diversifying so broadly. But China is a big country and has established a world-class infrastructure that, at this point, no one comes close to competing against. While each of the new factories and regions have their own quirks and differences that you must figure out, I suspect China will continue to be a viable resource for footwear and other goods.

I’m amazed by your ability to continually adapt despite the remoteness or exoticness of each ‘next place’ you’ve encountered.

GC: We have to. It’s one of the advantages of being a small, privately held company: We are not too hidebound to tradition and we are pretty nimble in order to stay competitive.

KM: We are not the biggest company, but we are a decent size and can zig and zag as quickly as most of our competitors, if not faster.

Even when we realized it was becoming more challenging to manufacture footwear in the States, we took advantage of our factory and became one of the first companies to make leather shoes in China.

We utilized our sample facility in the U.S., developing the patterns and the lasts, then transferred them to mainland China. Soon after, we sent our factory superintendent to China to help us adapt further.

GC: Gene Keiler was the superintendent of our New Hampshire factory 30 years ago, and 20 years ago we sent him to China on a oneway ticket (laughs). He runs our entire technical and QC operation.

The average person simply has no idea of the global team of people behind the shoes they wear each day.

GC: There are a lot of hands and aspects coming together to get a shoe made. It’s more complicated then people think. And today there are more challenges than ever: We now must make shoes that are free of any harmful chemicals, which really wasn’t a consideration 10 years ago. Human rights is also a big concern. It’s a big challenge to not only find factories but ones that are trying to raise the bar with respect to worker conditions and fair pay. For example, we sell to a lot of the big-box stores on a first-cost business, and Kohl’s, Sears and Target all have strict standards as to what factories qualify to make their goods. The fact that we are now concentrated more in one country makes it somewhat easier.

At one point about six years ago, we were in Brazil, Italy, Eastern Europe and China, with a little bit of production happening in India and Mexico. That kind of sourcing was far more challenging and, quite frankly, dysfunctional and not at all cost effective compared to where we are now.

Speaking of dysfunction, how has White Mountain performed since the financial collapse?

KM: We’ve been very fortunate. While these are very challenging times for our country and the shoe industry in particular, we have had some nice growth over the past two years.

To what do you attribute that success?

GC: Both our brands and private label businesses feature a strong value equation. We are close to entry-level price points in each of our brands’ respective distribution channels—White Mountain at Macy’s and Rialto at Kohl’s or Shoe Carnival. That proposition has become a fairly attractive one in the marketplace of late.

KM: I would agree, but we also sat down six months before the recession truly hit and proactively prepared. We took a look at the lay of the land and saw an opportunity. That’s why we started Cliffs, whereas most other companies were in a retraction mode. Granted, our existing businesses were steady and White Mountain and Rialto had opportunities for exponential growth. Nevertheless, we thought there was a void and because it was just the four of us, we made the decision quickly. We are shipping our first Cliffs shoes in July.

Who is the target customer for the Cliffs brand?

KM: It’s centered toward the mid-tier department stores that are a bit more price-sensitive than White Mountain’s customer base.

Conversely, Rialto is more of a novelty division that can do a lot of fun items and is even more price-sensitive.

Having launched White Mountain in the early ’80s recession and worked through several in the years since, how does this current one compare?

GC: No recession is good, and they are generally not good for anybody’s business. What’s different today is that the world has become such a small place that is all interconnected. A country as small as Greece with its debt troubles, for example, can turn Europe up- >38

SPRING PICKIN’S Experts predict the top trends of early 2011. By Melissa Knific

AU NATUREL Charles David

Caressa

Lovely People

“The biggest trend is noncolor,” Caressa CEO David Graves declares. Nudes— ranging from light beige to espresso—will serve as the neutrals of the season.

Apparel-wise, trend experts say Spring ’11 will be less covered up (expect short shorts and miniskirts), and nude footwear that correlates with a person’s skin tone works as a way to lengthen the legs. If not used alone, the nudes will be mixed with other top hues from spring, such as lilac.

Natural materials will also play big: Paola Venturi, creative director of Via Spiga, is planning to use raffia, while Graves notes jute, cork, bamboo and wood (or materials that look like it) will be important in Caressa’s collection.

Monique Umeh, footwear editor for fashion trend forecaster Stylesight, references beachgoers in Cornwall, England, noting that part of the look features espadrilles and alpargata slip-ons like TOMS. Along those lines, styles that have a handmade, artisan feel will also be popular. Woven leathers, for example, are being used all over oxfords or as a trim on pumps. Beading and bright-colored stitching also provide a handmade touch, lending a tribal aesthetic to spring. (Umeh predicts that African, Egyptian and Far Eastern ethnic details will replace 2010’s dominant Native American theme.)

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2010

Rockport

PARTY IN THE U.S.A. Americana isn’t anything new to Rockport, but Haysun Hahn, vice president of the women’s business unit, says the company is banking on its heritage for Spring ’11. “We have an American nautical agenda—and we’re one of the only [brands] that can claim to own it,” she asserts. Navy and white will be Rockport’s top colors, mixed with pops of bubblegum pink. Leatrice Eiseman, director of the Pantone Color Institute, says more saturated, deeper variations of blue will evolve from turquoise, which was 2010’s color of the year. (Messeca, for one, is using bright blue as one of its pop colors against a primarily pale palette.) As for materials, the use of vintage-looking leathers, canvas and denim will strengthen the American vibe.

Designers say they’ll continue to reinterpret classic American styles, as consumers took a liking to heritage brands over the past few seasons. Styles traditionally linked to men will cross genders: Lug-sole hikers, whether flat or with chunky heels, continue the Fall ’10 grunge trend; ankle-height cowboy boots keep the Western look alive; and boat shoes continue to evolve with new materials, prints and embellishments.

And desert boots, which may not be completely American but certainly coincide with the polished look, will finally hit the masses in Spring ’11, Umeh reports.

Sneakers are also returning to their classic roots—a departure from recent seasons where tattooed, vulcanized styles and colorful, urban lo- and hitops ruled the streets. Instead, simple lace-ups like Keds’ Champion style sum up the new direction.

1970s REWIND

Messeca

Perhaps the most obvious influence of the decade is the reemergence of the clog. “It’s proving stronger than ever for spring,” Venturi of Via Spiga says.

Designers will provide various takes on the style, from sexy, sky-high platforms to designs reminiscent of Dr. Scholl’s orthopedic look. “We’re putting [clogs] in every category,” says Ellen Schiff, fashion coordinator for Chinese Laundry.

“You can dress them up or down.” Rita Nakouzi, director of fashion trend forecaster Promostyl North America, is also expecting hybrids, such as clogs combined with a Western boot upper.

Also channeling the disco era’s vibe is the continuation of the platform. Lauri Carleton, president of wholesale for Charles David, says the company will feature “aggressive wedges,” while Julie Messeca, co-owner of the eponymous brand, plans to let the architectural aspect of wedges and platforms speak for itself. “We see a lot going on with apparel, and we wanted the shoes to be more simple,” she notes.

Trend experts predict socks (whether anklelength or knee-high) will be worn with open-toe silhouettes for spring, furthering the dance decade’s influence.

It’s also important to note that the artisan and ethnic details from other categories—such as woven leathers and beading—cross over into this category, obviously replicating the bohemian lifestyle of the ’70s.

FUNKY FEMME

Spring streetwear sketch from Promostyl

While studs have been the chief detail of the past few seasons, Spring ’11 will see a softening of embellishments. Metallic hardware won’t completely dissolve, but going forward, floral accents provide a more chic feel. Designers are giving florals a modern twist by mixing and matching prints and putting the feminine fabrics on wooden platforms for a pretty, boho vibe. Stylesight’s Umeh cites the “Reality Bites” era of the ’90s—think military-inspired laceups softened with a floral print— which lightened up the decade’s heavy grunge looks.

Women’s oxfords will continue for Spring ’11 but will feature more feminine twists such as pointier toes, animal prints, ribbon laces or cut-out details, plus pastel hues. Speaking of which, Eiseman says “true pastels”— i.e. bolder shades, like those of a Baskin Robbins array, rather than Easter’s wimpy palette—will be important; of those, she highlights Pantone colors Gossamer Pink, Bright Chartreuse and Royal Lilac. (Lovely People owner Patricia Kerrigan says the latter is her brand’s top hue for the season.)

Also, welcome back the kitten heel. According a recent article in The Wall Street Journal, “Now, amid considerable economic uncertainty, lower-heeled styles—particularly tapered ‘kitten’ heels—are back with a vengeance… That leads some to speculate whether there’s a relationship between sinking heels and the stock market.” Either way, designers, such as Franco Sarto, are adding them to their Spring ’11 collections: “The 50- to 60-mm heel will be a major trend, which is good news for the woman who can’t always walk around in stilettos.” • Photos courtesy of Stylesight unless indicated otherwise.

june 2010• footwearplusmagazine.com 17

REFRESHED & REVITALIZED USRA’s May Event provided the perfect setting for business leaders to get reenergized via idea-sparking info sessions, relaxed vendor/buyer interactions and a convivial atmosphere. From day one’s rousing keystone speech to a heated trade show debate, Footwear Plus editor Leslie Shiers was on hand to document the highlights.

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SOCIAL CHAIRS: CONFERENCE ORGANIZERS GARY AND LINDA HAUSS DISCUSS WHY THEY AIM TO MAKE USRA’S ANNUAL EVENT BOTH EDUCATIONAL AND FUN. Just two years ago, the United Shoe Retailers Association’s (USRA) May Event was in trouble. Its focus had grown fuzzy, and that caused attendance to droop. But if this year’s edition was any evidence, the conference is back on an upward track. More than 220 industry members trekked to Palm Springs, CA, where the relaxed setting of the Westin Mission Hills Resort let retailers and vendors kick back, hobnob, trade tips and brainstorm new ways to increase business.

“This year couldn’t have gone more perfectly,” says Gary Hauss, a USRA officer and one of the key organizers behind the annual conference along with his wife, USRA executive director Linda Hauss. He notes the focus has returned to the people the association serves—independent retailers—and the event’s sponsors were highly involved in planning this year’s itinerary.

“One Industry, One Goal, One Place” is the event’s tagline, and to Linda, that motto captures the true meaning of the retreat. “This event reenergizes those who attend,” she says. “It lets people connect with old friends and meet new people. It allows vendors to network with retailers, and vice versa.” The USRA also hosts brand reps, trade show

staff, industry press and relevant nonprofits.

“The industry is all here,” Gary adds.

Perhaps that’s because the three-day event is meant to be as enjoyable as it is informative. “When everyone has fun, everyone is willing to do a lot more,” Gary says, noting the getaway puts retailers and vendors in a neutral territory. The conference schedule is packed with vendor presentations and business seminars (this year, speakers addressed marketing and promotional strategies, hiring practices, ways to motivate employees, the potential of various market segments and more), but recreation is a high priority.

A golf tournament, casino night and nightly happy hours give attendees much fodder for future ribbing and lasting friendships.

Once a level of comfort is established, Gary notes the industry can focus on key issues— and nowhere was that more obvious that in a colorful session about the industry’s trade shows, which Gary led with Earth president Gary Champion. There, WSA director Pam Baffo fielded opinions from a cross-section of industry members, pledging to address their comments and concerns.

“This event was created to get all segments of the business together to share ideas and solve issues rather than just complain,” Gary says. “People can learn while having fun in a resort environment.” Linda notes that anyone who keeps an open mind should leave with a notepad full of ideas. Adds Gary, “Everyone in the shoe business should be here.”

From far left: Picturesque Palm Springs; USRA officer Gary Hauss and his daughter with Earth’s Gary Champion; prepping for the golf scramble; winning big at Casino Night; an evening happy hour.

> TIP FOR THE TAKING Your passion for your products is not enough to make you successful. You have to understand the difference between sales and marketing, and you must become a savvy marketer.

Good marketing doesn’t cost, it pays—and when you find something that works, do it again. —Bob Negen, WhizBang! Training

TALKING TRADE SHOWS: USRA called a Townhall meeting to discuss the need for one national trade show. As anticipated, the session invoked a heated debate, but attendees agreed it was a much-needed occasion for both independent retailers and comfort brands getting lost between the fashion markets’ power struggle to say their part. Here, some comments from those who stepped up to the mic.

“WSA was our most important show, but I stopped going when it became a three-day show. I can’t cover the costs for what, ultimately, only provides two-anda-half days of shopping. If the show goes back up to four days, I’ll be the first to show up.”

“I love the Vegas show, but sometimes you have to [practically] interview to get into a booth. And the show did get too short. Now, I can’t see my existing vendors and still have time to see new lines.”

“Booths need to be more open and visible, and the big guys shouldn’t have such overpowering booths.

Vendors and reps need to take the show more seriously as a place where real business takes place. Why waste my money if the vendors are there but aren’t really there?”

“We [vendors] want retailers to come to shows to have conversations, but the big shows have become a place for show-and-tell. Now, the best place to do business is at a regional show where we can sell more shoes.”

“The Vegas show is supposed to show us retailers the big picture. When vendors started pulling out, it told people, ‘you don’t have to go there.’ We need to go back to having one major show.” “[ENK, the owner of the WSA Show, has] to get involved with footwear industry politics, and it needs to court the majors. Until it does, more people won’t come to the show—even if ENK does know how to put on a great show. Personally, I believe shoe people need to run shoe shows.”

june 2010 • footwearplusmagazine.com 19

Networking under the palms; Barry Gunches of Liberty Insurance and Steve Miskulin of Parcel Management Group outline the benefits of becoming a USRA member.

BUSINESS BOOSTER: ATTENDEES WEIGH IN ON WHY THE MAY EVENT IS A MUST.

Dave Astobiza

Avonne Ofenstein

Joe Sama

Dave Astobiza of Sole Desire, Santa Rosa, CA What do you find most beneficial about attending the May Event? The networking is No. 1. It’s always about the networking.

What other aspects have you enjoyed this year? The seminars have been excellent.

I really enjoyed the keystone address [on marketing ideas] by Bob Negen [of WhizBang! Training].

Avonne Ofenstein of Safety Boot Store, Lubbock, TX What was the best part of this year’s conference? I think there’s a common thread among everyone here—we all want to be better at what we do. Everyone has been super-attentive, taking notes during the seminars and engaging in discussions. I find that really compelling.

What’s your top takeaway? Sometimes we think there’s nothing left to learn, but it’s beneficial to hear other retailers talk about experiences they’ve had that we’re going through now and getting their input. Sometimes it’s about what not to do.

Joe Sama of Harry’s Shoes, New York What have you enjoyed most about this business retreat? It’s always a refresher course for me. There are always things we can do to improve business—things we often forget.

Was it worth the trip?

The May Event is definitely worthwhile.

The industry should have more conferences like this than shoe shows.

> TIP FOR THE TAKING Front line people make the difference. When people enjoy going to work, they go beyond expectations.

When staffers are just paid monkeys, that’s what you’ll get. Your people are your No. 1 asset, so treat them as such. Their positive attitude, enthusiasm and passion will filter through to your customers. To maintain motivation, communicate openly and offer challenges, rewards and job enrichment opportunities. When you’re in a service business, you cannot afford to have unhappy people on the floor. —Joe Salzano, vice president of sales, Clarks

Fraser shares her story with an eager crowd.

VALUES ADDED USRA WELCOMED BIRKENSTOCK USA FOUNDER MARGOT FRASER, WHO SHARED INSIGHT ON THE FOOTWEAR WORLD’S EVOLUTION AND HOW SHE BUILT A SUCCESSFUL CORPORATE CULTURE BASED ON HER OWN PERSONAL MORALS.

• At age 14, Fraser—who grew up in Berlin during WWII—was told by a school counselor that she should study dressmaking, but she was enrapt by a book called “German Merchants Overseas.” She told her father she intended to study international relations, to “make sure people outside Germany know that not all Germans are bad.”

• Fraser did become a dressmaker, attending fashion school in Canada, then moved to the U.S. after her first marriage. Citing heredity as the reason for her poor feet, she would seek out comfort shoes each time she returned to Germany; in 1966, a yoga instructor introduced her to Birkenstocks.

• In a letter to Birkenstock’s founder, Fraser asked for permission to wholesale the product Stateside. He approved her request, but with no knowledge of the sales business, she was repeatedly turned away. Eventually, at a trade show where the brand attracted no business, she distributed the footwear to exhibitors in neighboring booths with weary feet—which led to an initial convert and her first sale.

• Fraser began expanding through health food stores, and didn’t land a shoe store account until 1973. But fearless about asking questions, she began navigating the business with success. By ’94, Birkenstocks were on the shelves in many stores. By 2002, Birkenstock USA had 200 em-

ployees and was turning more than $120 million in sales. “People ask, ‘How did you build the brand?’” Fraser recalls. “But I didn’t do it—the customer did.”

• When fashion trends shifted to “dressing for success,” Fraser worried Birkenstock was done for. The company had to cut staff and revise its growth trajectory, but eventually it rebounded and hired several of those people back. “Hang on to what you believe in,” she advises. “But remember, the product has to work.”

• Fraser educated herself on cash flow, and eventually brought her entire staff to a cash flow seminar to gain the same understanding. That education component played a large role in her company direction. “Not all employees loved it—some like to work 9 to 5,” she says. “But most like to learn.”

• “The world has changed, but I think fundamentally [the business] is still the same,” Fraser muses. “Connect with your customers.

Believe in your product and your people. That’s the only way a busi- Fraser (center) greets attendees after ness can survive these days.”• their standing ovation.

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KNOCK

DON’T Design law expert Christopher V. Carani discusses why a recent Crocs ruling in its favor is a major warning shot to all knockoff artists.

By Greg Dutter

In the wake of Crocs winning its recent design patent infringement case, should all knockoff artists be afraid? I’m not sure

they should be “afraid,” but they certainly should take note. In short, the opinion confi rms that minor design differences will not be enough to avoid infringement.

Given the differences in design between the Crocs version and some of the accused designs, the Crocs court apparently assigned a considerable fuzz factor to what constitutes “too similar.”

Meaning? The lawyers proved the overall appearance of the accused water clogs were substantially similar to Crocs’ patented design in the eyes of an “ordinary observer” (i.e. not a shoe expert) familiar with the prior shoe designs. [See sketches on opposite page.] Because the test is visual, there is subjectivity. In this particular case, one can see some aspects that were nearly identical and some that were quite different. Yet the court held that infringement was effectively a slam dunk decision, and that’s where the rubber hits the road in terms of the importance of this case. If a company gets too close in the eye of an ordinary observer, they will be liable for infringement, which in district court litigation could subject them to money damages and an injunction.

Might we see a barrage of design patent infringement suits in the coming year? While I don’t expect a barrage,

I do expect to see an upward trend. Companies without design patents will obviously first have to acquire them before they can be enforced. It currently takes approximately 12 to 14 months to secure a U.S. design patent from filing to issuance. With expedited processing, the patents can be obtained in as little as three to four 22 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2010

IT

months. It generally costs a couple thousand dollars to prepare an application. It should also be noted that, by law, the original designer has one year to secure that patent once that particular design is on the market or otherwise it’s made public. Oftentimes, they fail to secure protection within this time frame. For example, they will do a test market and forget, or sit back a few seasons and wait until they see returns at the register. Unfortunately, by then it’s too late. The safest play is to apply at the outset.

Numerous other cases have been fought over the years, yet they never seem to stop the flow of knockoff s. Why might the outcome of this case be different? Frankly, I don’t think that we’ve seen too many cases won over the

Some say the copiers will always be one step ahead. For example, designs are being knocked off in the factories—long before they ever hit a trade show fl oor or retailers’ shelves. Can this ever be nipped in the bud? Here

again, it’s a matter of mitigation, not elimination. As for nipping it in the bud, effective tools include securing and enforcing design patents in the jurisdictions where the goods are sourced. The enforcement can be obtained through the courts, customs or both. I know one thing for sure: If you don’t have a design patent, you will never ever win a design patent infringement case.

Are knockoffs more rampant in footwear than in other industries? This inyears. I attribute this to three things: First, all too often the asserted design dustry is certainly on par with—if not ahead of—other major trade sectors patent is drafted poorly and thus easy to avoid. Garbage in, equals garbage where appearance is everything. The infringement in footwear is similar out. If you have a poorly drafted claim, it should come as no surprise that it to the watch industry in that the primary sales driver is the look. Thus, it did not ensnare the infringer. For example, say you have a new shoe and it behooves the knockoff artist to mimic the successful appearance and not features novel tongue, toe and tread designs, but the attorney files only one the functional attributes. application for the entire shoe. In that case, a competitor might copy the tread design and be able to avoid infringement since Beyond the patent holder losing sales, what other the majority of the design is not similar. The key is negative impacts could be linked to knockoff s? A to apply for protection not just on the overall design knockoff not only impacts lost sales but can also but also its subcomponents. Sometimes I will file a cause a significant reduction in goodwill for the dozen patents on one product. This claiming techoriginal design. First, the original design patentee nique is frequently lost on general intellectual propmay want to limit the distribution of the product. erty practitioners who don’t focus on this niche area Exclusivity can create value. Second, a poor-qualof the law. It also seems that the footwear industry ity knockoff might reflect poorly on the perceived has been so label driven that manufacturers simply quality of the original design. The consuming puboverlook the protection of design. I can’t tell you how lic, having been deceived, does not know the differmany times I have walked the floor of the WSA show ence between the two and assumes they are both of and people don’t even realize you can protect a shoe poor quality. design, let alone its subcomponents. It seems there’s much understanding regarding protecting a tradeHow might retailers benefit from stricter design patmark but very little understanding about protecting ents? Those retailers who deal in original and auYou be the judge: Is this Crocs clog (left) too similar looking to Holey Soles’ a design. thentic goods will benefit because their market will version? The court says it is. be more effectively protected and preserved. Those dealing in non-original design will be hurt in that And the potential financial retribution is worth the due they will not be able to so easily ride the coattails of diligence and upfront costs? Design patents can be the original designs. particularly effective in that, unlike utility patents, an infringer’s profits are an available remedy. In other words, you can disgorge and obtain all of the ill-gotten gains from the infringement. In the Might that be unfair to consumers who can’t afford the real deal? Yes, but I retail context, this can be huge. For example, a big-box store’s profits can believe that if you want the real thing, you have to pay for it. The fundaamount to a large dollar volume. In addition to money damages, a design mental reason as to why we have design patent rights is for creating the patent holder can seek a court-ordered immediate injunction to get those incentive for people to come up with new designs to advance the useful arts shoes off the shelves. Furthermore, with a court order, a design patent and sciences. If you allow people to encroach on that incentive, it inhibits holder can enlist the assistance of U.S. Customs to stop the importations of future design advancements. infringing goods into the country.

Do you feel like you’re fighting the good fight? While I represent design patent holders, I also counsel law-abiding companies to legitimately avoid Sounds enticing enough, but after 17 years covering the footwear industry I infringement upon others. There are many companies who are “good citremain skeptical that knockoff s will be markedly curtailed. Like weeds in a izens” and genuinely do not want to infringe. They come to me seeking garden, knockoffs will continue in perpetuity. The goal is not elimination advice on “how close is too close?” That said, I believe valid design rights but rather mitigation. To bear the fruits of one’s labor, you need to tend should be protected. the garden, which includes “de-weeding.” Effectively, this is a cost of doing business.

What is the best free advice you could give to a designer? If you care about your product design, secure protection—and do it early. Otherwise, you There are very big companies backed by teams of lawyers that surely scoff at risk being your competitor’s personal designer. such potential threats. What might you say to them now? Bring it on. I am convinced that if one is armed with a properly drafted design patent and thorough knowledge of design law, enforcement can be obtained. To be sure, How about some free advice for a knockoff artist? Watch your step, I’m comthe Crocs case is not going to provide a tectonic shift for all. Its true value is ing for you! (laughs) going to be felt on a case-by-case basis where the design patent is procured and enforced strategically by learned counsel.

Lastly, whose shoes are you wearing? Bontoni. And, yes, they’re authentic. • june 2010 • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

THIS JUST IN

Monique Darton, 25 Model, Minneapolis, MN What shoes go best with short shorts? Something like my moccasins, or a pretty sandal.

What would you not wear with these shorts? There’s not much you couldn’t wear. If you have the confidence, go for it.

What kind of shoe style best shows off your legs? Probably not little ankle boots, which chop off the leg.

I’d say a nice sandal, flat or heel.

Where do you do most of your shoe shopping? Some storefronts just get your attention, like Filene’s Basement. But I’m an equal opportunity shoe shopper. I’ll go anywhere.

Clogs or oxfords? Clogs. I’ve had a favorite pair for quite some time.

Ahra Ko, 28 Maitre d’, Jersey City, NJ What shoes go best with short shorts? Flats and sandals.

What would you not wear with these shorts? High-heeled pumps.

What kind of shoe style best shows off your legs? Nude platforms.

What’s on your wish list for summer? Gladiators. I’d buy them from Gilt Groupe for $30.

Where do you do most of your shoe shopping? Saks or Bloomingdale’s— both have great variety and good style.

Which of your winter shoes will you miss most this summer? Probably my Hunter boots.

Boots in the summer—thoughts?

I hate that. It’s like people wearing sandals in winter: It just doesn’t go.

Ayana Mbaye, 22 Sales, Bronx, NY What shoes go best with short shorts?

I like riding boots.

What would you not wear with these shorts? Running shoes.

What’s on your wish list for summer?

I have my eye on some jelly flip-flops by Tory Burch. They’re $65.

Where do you do most of your shoe shopping? Tory Burch. I usually wear flats and she offers a lot of them.

Boots in the summer—thoughts? Riding boots are OK but not snow boots.

Will people ever tire of flip-flops? No, because they’re comfortable and easy to throw on.

Clogs or oxfords? Oxfords. I’ve seen them coming back. Now a lot of stores sell them, for babies through adults.

Heather Morris, 21 Student, State College, PA What shoes go best with short shorts?

Chunky espadrilles.

What would you not wear with these shorts? Heels—but wedges are OK. What kind of shoe style best shows off your legs? Heeled booties.

What’s on your wish list for summer?

A pair of Sam Edelman gladiators. I’d pay the full $110 for them.

Where do you do most of your shoe shopping? Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom. They always carry good brands and they have amazing return policies.

Which winter shoes will you miss most this summer? My Frye boots.

Clogs or oxfords? Oxfords. Clogs are nerd shoes; they’re clunky. You can wear oxfords with everything.

We Wear Short Shorts

Summer lovin’ demands showing some leg. These ladies dare to bare. By Dorothy Hong 24 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2010

TREND

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARKUS MARKENHAUSER

SPOTTING

Duck, Duck, Boots

Forget hunting season staples: These women’s styles come in all colors and heights.

Clockwise from top left: The Original Muck Boot Company; Sperry Top-Sider; Native Shoes; Sorel; Ugg Australia; Western Chief. Center: Southpole. june 2010 • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

FEMININE AND MASCULINE COLLIDE FOR ANDROGYNOUS LOOKS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANETA BARTOS Raphael Young suede lace-ups. VPL bodysuit; Laruicci necklace and bracelet; D Caruso headpiece; vintage gloves.

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metal heart

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Styling by Edda Gudmun; hair by Seiji for The Wall Group; makeup by Vanessa Evelyn. Fashion editor: Melissa Knific

Blue velvet oxford by Bettye Muller.

VPL dress and lingerie; Laruicci earrings; stylist’s socks.

Opposite: Elisa Palomino booties with suede flower details. Jose Duran skirt; Kiki De Montparnasse wristband.

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From left: Pedro GarcĂ­a midnight blue slip-ons with jewel embellishments.

Aftur outfit; Worth & Worth hat. Boot with crystal buttons and back cutout by Giuseppe Zanotti.

Outfit and headpiece by threeASFOUR; vintage rings.

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Camilla Skovgaard over-the-knee boots. Pepper & Pistol shirt; D Caruso headpiece; Bobae gloves.

Opposite, from left: Ted Baker plum wingtips.

Suit and vest by Yigal AzrouÍl; stylist’s socks. Studded platforms with tassel laces by Laurence Dacade. VPL outfit.

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Shoe Salon

Designer Chat: Gabriele Strehle

34 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2010

Clockwise from top left: Chocolate Blu ballet flat with bow; engineer boot by Franco Sarto; Marc Joseph New York pump; Contessa by Italian Shoemakers mule; cut-out bootie by Sergio Zelcer; hidden platform pump by Schutz.

Clockwise from left: Jinny Kim boot; Tania Spinelli ankle-strap shoetie; pump by Coye Nokes; Strenesse Gabriele Strehle oxford.

General Patent

E D I T O R’ S P I C K S

“They are both light and dynamic, strong and fragile, just like the woman I think of when I design: harmoniously contradictive,” Strehle says about both collections.

Who is the Strenesse consumer? A sophisticated woman who does not obsess over brands.

Her idea of fashion is natural and unforced.

Where do you look for design inspiration?

I find as much inspiration in tree bark as in a painting by Mark Rothko, as much in an old wall in Berlin as a calla lily, as much in a Milan woman’s walk as in a film by Quentin Taran-

A classic material adds a sophisticated sheen.

tino. Every day I feel so grateful to the world for supplying me with so many inspirations.

Who do you admire in the shoe world?

Manolo Blahnik. His shoes are perfectly sculpted but still designed to allow women to make regal appearances.

Describe a shoe we’d never see in your line.

One that is uncomfortable to stand or walk in.

What is your motto? I don’t have one. Mottos prevent your ability to see the unexpected.

—Melissa Knific

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY NEAL BRISTON

GERMAN DESIGNER GABRIELE Strehle is a self-proclaimed working— and walking—woman. “I am aware of what it means to stand while you are working for long hours,” she notes. With the lines Strenesse Gabriele Strehle and Strenesse Blue, the designer aims to create feminine and timeless shoes that are, above all else, comfortable.

Both footwear lines—which debuted in Germany in 1996—recently launched their women’s product Stateside in the wake of the brands’ U.S. apparel debut. (The company also produces men’s footwear, which remains exclusive to the brands’ flagship stores at this time.) Strehle realizes the U.S. woman differs from her German counterparts, and tries to fulfill the needs of both with her collections. “Americans primarily want products that amaze them and create a strong statement, while Germans want products that are mostly comfortable,” she explains.

The designer says each of the brands embodies a disctinct personality: Strenesse Gabriele Strehle (retailing from $400 to $950) takes “an emotional approach to fashion,” while she hopes to suggest “joie de vivre” with Strenesse Blue ($300 to $835).

Each collection has 27 styles for Fall ’10. The Strenesse Gabriele Strehle collection was inspired by architectural icons including the Colosseum, Acropolis, Brandenburg Gate, Empire State Building and the Eiffel Tower. It includes an over-the-knee wedge boot, a ballerina flat with metal hardware, a black leather chukka, a pointytoe wingtip and more. Strehle says Strenesee Blue was influenced by ’80s fashion through the use of zippers, studs and clasps; highlights include a lugsole motorcycle boot, hi-tops with ribbon laces, leather and wood slip-on wedge booties, platform lace-up booties, fur-covered boots and more.

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ATHLETIC COMFORT GREEN KIDS STREET WORK

Holey Moley Native Shoes bows fashionable EVA. WHILE CROCS MAY not be as hot as they were three years ago, the fact is many consumers are loathe to retire the brand’s lightweight, comfortable, go-everywhere slip-ons—especially pint-sized loyalists.

Enter Native Shoes, a Vancouver-based company that’s putting a new streetwise twist on holey, featherweight footwear. The brand launched its adult line for Spring ’10, and the kids’ collection is fast on its heels for fall, with three funky takedown styles.

“EVA shoes have been out in the market for some time,” says Dre Hayes, U.S. sales manager. “People love them for their functionality.

But what’s been missing is the fashion element, and that’s what Native brings to the category.”

Founders Damian Van Zyll De Jong and Matthew Penner dreamed up Native Shoes in 2009, wanting to design good-looking shoes out of EVA that had the airiness of a sandal but the look of their favorite classic shoe styles. Most of all, they sought ultimate comfort. As a result, the brand has elevated the injected-foam shoe category by introducing silhouettes that mirror iconic casual styles. The Jefferson offers the look of a traditional vulcanized sneaker with a rubber toe; the Miller is a three-eyelet twist on simple canvas kicks; and the Corrado slip-on has the flavor of a boat shoe. All are washable, mold to the feet, have antimicrobial properties and feature non-marking soles. Children will get their pick from bright purple, red, green, black, pink, orange, royal and light blue uppers riding on top of a white outsole.

Native Shoes—which is already distributing to a dozen countries worldwide—addresses the entire family. The shoes are available in child sizes 3/4 to 11/12 ($29.99 retail) and junior sizes 1 to 3 ($34.99).

Knowing parents are price-conscious when it comes to their kids’ footwear, Native kept prices as low as possible. “Our adult shoes are priced $5 more than Crocs, but on the kids’ we wanted to match them price for price,” Hayes notes.

Hayes says what really sets Native apart from its EVA predecessors is a distinct, lifestyle-focused distribution strategy. “For the adults’ launch, we were in Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, American Rag, Undefeated, and surf and skate shops. Some of those places had never carried EVA shoes before,” he reports. Native Shoes will look to bring more of its adult styles—including boots—down to children in future seasons. —Leslie Shiers 36 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2010

Girly Edge Traditional brand Pazitos unveils an edgy counterpart for stylish tweens.

A GO-TO SOURCE for girls’ slip-ons and traditional Mary Janes, Pazitos is concentrating on an edgier tween customer with its new introduction: the Picaroz collection. “Picaroz is filling the gap left by Pazitos,” explains Roberto Paz, who co-owns the company with his wife, Letty, and views this age group as one typically overlooked by the market. “[The Picaroz] customer is more creative with her outfits and puts together looks with different textures, colors and styles.”

Set to hit retail this fall, Picaroz by Pazitos will have little fashionistas itching for their first day of school, where they can make a splash in the classroom wearing leopard, zebra or plaid vulcanized boots or Mary Janes; patent leather pull-on boots with tassel details; studded ankle booties; bejeweled ballet flats; casually laidback desert boots; and more. Paz notes that the line is mostly made of synthetic materials. “This gives Picaroz great design alternatives and freedom to stay within budget,” he says, adding that the collection aims to provide fabulous designs at attainable prices.

While the company planned the line to target tweens in particular, Paz notes that younger girls have also gotten excited about the trendy boots and shoes. One of the key pieces thus far for the U.S. market has been the Tahoe boot. “[This style] is a perfect example of what Picaroz is all about,” Paz says, ticking off its combination of and patent leather, gold shoe laces and tennis-shoe soles, which all come together in a singular, statement-making style.

Available in European sizes 22 to 39, the collection retails for $43 to $54. —L.S.

ATHLETIC COMFORT GREEN KIDS STREET WORK

Duty Calls

Civic Duty launches with a socially responsible assortment and mission.

CIVIC DUTY FOOTWEAR wasn’t inspired by any other shoe on the market but rather the material another shoe came packaged in. Five years ago, Steven Weinreb was examining a shoe’s Tyvek casing and found himself wondering what a shoe made out of that material would look like. After founding the brand Civic Duty a year and a half ago, he got his answer.

Although it boasts durability and breathability and is waterproof and comfortable, Tyvek is a material most people usually throw away. It’s made some cameos in footwear in uppers by DC Shoes and PF Flyers, but Secaucus, NJ-based Civic Duty ups the ante with a line of shoes with uppers made entirely of Tyvek.

Weinreb says the material passed all wear tests with flying colors. “Tyvek is very strong and we’ve backed it to give it more body,” he explains. “It is recyclable and prints well, too.”

The company aims to offer a completely eco-friendly line, down to the dyes it uses. In addition, Weinreb—who previously worked on Marc Ecko, Perry Ellis and Gola footwear—wanted to build in a charitable mission. “After seeing all of the bailouts on Wall Street, I realized no one helps the Main Street guy,” he says.

Civic Duty plans to let consumers vote on a cause they believe the company should support for a full year. Once chosen, the brand will design shoes reflecting that charity’s cause, with 100 percent of the proceeds going to that organization. “We’re trying to build a community of civic-minded people,” Weinreb explains.

Civic Duty offers five sneaker silhouettes: the Exhilaration, Fascination, Dedication, Illumination and Sensation. Three are lo-tops—a slip-on, one with a rubber bumper and one without (each retailing for $54). The other two shoes are hi-tops, one with a rubber toe and one with hidden shoelaces ($64). Each style comes in white, pale yellow, brown paper bag, gunmetal gray, periwinkle, fudge brownie and navy blue.

Civic Duty’s focus on timeless, classic silhouettes was a calculated move that plays up the unique material story, Weinreb says, noting the shoes’ crinkled appearance sets them apart from the competition. The core market is 16- to 28-year-olds, but “anyone who appreciates leisure footwear will enjoy them,” he adds.

Weinreb reports buyers are loving the debut collection, which he plans to keep as the brand’s core offering. Civic Duty is targeting specialty stores, and come August, it will be sold in stores like Tani, Conveyor at Fred Segal and Cockpit USA, where buyer Rudy Gonzales applauds the brand’s novel spin. “Civic Duty is offering a new product—a sneaker made out of ‘paper’ that is very lightweight and easy to wear—and it comes in colors and styles that fit with almost anything,” he attests. —Christine Bove

Brit Wit

Fashion brand Baracuta brings its new footwear collection Stateside.

FAMOUS FOR ITS G9 Harrington jacket, British brand Baracuta has been popular around the world since 1937. Dressing icons and legends like Steve McQueen, Elvis Presley and Frank Sinatra, Baracuta is now applying its fashion expertise to footwear in a collection that will hit the States this fall.

Five years ago, the brand began adding categories to complement its famed jacket, growing its offering to include polos and knitwear. From there, “Footwear was a natural category to complete the look,” says Ian Cartwright, managing director for Base London, the licensed producer of the shoe collection.

The initial Fall ’10 collection will complement the brand’s timeless, effortless style, incorporating the Fraser Tartan lining from the G9 jacket in the footbed of every shoe. Ten shoe styles fall under four categories: vulcanized casuals, desert boots, penny loafers and work boots. Highlights include the Isaac, a penny loafer available in multiple colors and finishes on a high-quality leather sole unit; the Pact desert boot, which comes in suede and nubuck variations on a traditional crepe sole unit; and the Waterloo, Diesel and Gas work boots constructed out of vintage leather.

The collection will range from $175 to $250 in the States. Cartwright says the brand’s core consumer falls between the ages of 28 to 50. “Ivy Leaguers and modernists will appreciate this purist brand,” he asserts.

In its home market, Baracuta clothing (which is sold worldwide) sells through fashion-focused specialty stores. The U.S. strategy follows suit, as Base London is targeting key independents and retailers like Urban Outfitters and J. Crew. Cartwright notes the company is being picky about placement.

“We’re looking for quality more than quantity,” he adds.

Ultimately, Cartwright believes buyers are taking note because of Baracuta’s history and authenticity. “Brands with genuine heritage and endorsements from icons are few,” he states. —C.B. june 2010 • footwearplusmagazine.com 37

Q&A • continued from page 15

side down. The upheavals in any one place can have a ripple effect all over the world, and it’s harder to predict how the economy will react from one day to the next. Still, the heart of the problem now is unemployment.

KM: Both the retailer and the consumer are still overly conscious of how they are spending, which I think is true of every recession.

Do you sense any improvement yet for the industry at large?

KM: I don’t know if any of the improved numbers are sales-driven. People have contracted and are still trying to save money. Now that all of the costsaving measures have been made, we have to start looking at top-line sales for improvement. But there’s still close to 10 percent unemployment, which makes it very difficult.

Are you optimistic regarding the outlook for second half of this year?

KM: We are always cautiously optimistic. We have weathered previous recessions. The four of us try to be very proactive. We don’t live beyond our means and we try to keep things under control.

Far too many consumers were living beyond their means, which was at the root of the problem.

GC: That’s right. We watch our cash flow and bottom line very carefully and we generally don’t fall in love with inventory. We liquidate any mistakes as quickly as possible. Shoes aren’t like wine; they don’t appreciate with age. We saw a pretty good uptick in business in 2009, during which most of our product performed well. But one of our salespeople recently said he didn’t know how to behave when calling on customers anymore, because the approach for the past 20 years has been to sell from fear—like every sale was possibly his last. Now it’s a bit easier for him to get the date and commitment from his customers. I think it’s always been a part of our mindset: You have to keep running faster than the next guy. That’s how we approach our business.

Any other brand launches planed for the near future?

KM: Right now, we’re absorbing the Cliffs launch. And Rialto is only about four years old. We like to walk before we run, and I think there is tremendous upside in both of those divisions.

Why are you so bullish—let’s face it—many others haven’t been?

KM: Retailers want newness. And we’ve developed a wonderful relationship with our retail partners. I don’t mean to sound like a country bumpkin, but we have nurtured those relationships and most of our customers have a comfort factor with us. So when we launched Cliffs and told them what our objective was, we didn’t need to spend $10 million to market the brand. We pretty much pioneered it the oldfashioned way, and we’ve had a nice reception.

GC: If we were a completely new company trying to promote a new concept, it would be very difficult to get traction today because of the consolidation at retail. Customers have all gotten bigger, and being a successful vendor with any of them has gotten more difficult. It’s more than just making the product and then sticking it in a box in order to sell Macy’s, QVC, DSW, Kohl’s, Target, etc. Every customer comes with a set of rules and to one degree or another they have all pushed work they used to do in their distribution centers back to the manufacturers. So being somewhat fluent in talking their language and satisfying their demands is what it takes to be in the game. If you are in the door already and have their trust, it’s easier to have them be receptive to a new idea.

“We liquidate any mistakes as quickly as possible. Shoes aren’t like wine; they don’t appreciate with age.”

In what ways has your target customer changed of late?

KM: They are much more selective and very price-conscious today. There are so many options for purchasing footwear today that didn’t exist before, taking into account the Internet alone. From the ability to price-compare or communicate on social media sites, retail has changed. It isn’t about just going to a department store anymore.

Yet White Mountain’s business is primarily with traditional department stores.

KM: That’s not going away, and those retailers are developing their own viral marketing programs.

GC: A lot of our customers do a surprising amount of business on their own e-commerce sites. For example, we do a significant business with the QVC network, which is a totally different format on how product is sold, but they also do a significant part of their business via QVC.com.

Some pundits say one of the biggest casualties of the recession has been the luxury tier. Would you agree?

GC: People may say that, but I just came back from Europe and I can tell you that it doesn’t look like Chanel and Louis Vuitton are having a difficult time selling handbags.

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2010

I believe it’s hyperbole. Consumers still appreciate and desire fashionable items.

KM: Fashion trends will continue. Nevertheless, I think you have two consumers today: The people who are frugal and look for value and then those who are fashion-driven. To me, just because you are being frugal doesn’t mean you have to buy cheap. Frugal means finding the best value. And at different price points, there’s different value. That’s a segue into our company: We have always had understandable fashion at a great value. When we develop and price our shoes, we always think about the retail price points and what is going to drive our business.

Might this consolidation prevent new blood from entering the industry?

KM: Anyone who is creative and develops a better mousetrap will always be successful. That’s part of the American way. You just don’t have as many opportunities when you are starting out from scratch.

GC: The consolidation at some point might also reinvigorate the independent retailers. In a sea of consolidation where everything starts to look a bit too much alike, there’s opportunity for a creative person to build something that will attract customers. Independents may flourish on the local, micro level, but on the macro level, I think consolidation is here to stay.

As long-time industry survivors, do you have any advice for retailers?

KM: Most of the time they don’t ask for my advice (laughs).

GC: One of the bylaws of our partnership was that I wasn’t allowed to talk to customers (laughs). But I give advice to my brother Nick and Kevin all the time, and that’s to raise prices and sell more shoes. But I don’t think that advice reaches our retailers.

KM: I think retailers today have to understand their strengths and maxi-

mize them. I also believe they should focus on their competition, so they know where they can take advantage and where they can’t. Of course, they also have to focus on their consumer and develop their own niche.

But doesn’t consolidation make it more difficult to carve out a niche— for retailers and suppliers alike?

KM: It does, but I think certain vendors will become more dependent on certain retailers over time. It’s already starting to happen where you have concept shops in the stores. At one time, people just made shoes. Now it’s shoes and handbags and clothing. And it‘s not just couture brands doing it; mid-level brands are as well.

GC: Consolidation has made it more difficult for suppliers in that retailers all demand difference from each other. The challenge for our product development teams is virtually creating an individual line for every customer. Even if you have product that is well thoughtout and will potentially resonate with the consumer, you will have to change it for the next retailer.

most—putting together the hodgepodge of people we deal with. I’m much more involved in the sourcing side and experiencing different cultures and the challenges those differences present is the most fun aspect of my job.

KM: I can’t stress enough how pleased I am with the group of people who are associated with White Mountain. I think they are all a reflection of what the partners stand for. They are truly wonderful people who are extremely loyal and dedicated to our company. I also love that my job is constantly evolving, and that keeps you young, vibrant and alert. I love the challenges it brings from day to day. I believe the most awful thing for a person would be to wake up and dread heading to work. I’ve always been very grateful that I look forward to going to work each day. •

www.ASRbiz.com

What’s new for Spring ’11?

KM: I think flats are going to continue, oxfords will return in a major way, clogs are going to be very big at all levels and you’ll see a classic/vintage theme—boat shoes and styles of that ilk. At the same time, there’s still a lot of embellishment out there. If you look at White Mountain’s heritage, clogs and oxfords are right up our alley. But there’s always a new twist. Today, in addition to the traditional slip-on clog, there are clogs in all heel heights, shapes and with different types of embellishments.

I watched ‘Desperately Seeking Susan’ recently and I could swear I saw some of those same shoes in showrooms a few months ago.

GC: I’ll get the DVD right away… Along those lines, I was recently looking at an ad we ran with Nordstrom in a Portland, OR, newspaper from about 25 years ago. It featured three of our shoes—two wingtips and cuffed bootie. That’s what we stood for then and both of those looks are coming back. But it’s not as simple as dusting off what we did 25 years ago.

Do you have a five-year plan for White Mountain?

KM: Historically, we have never really looked out that far. That said, we’ll be exploring e-commerce, possibly move into accessories and obviously continue to maximize our three brands. At that point, it could be either an acquisition or developing another brand to target another segment of the marketplace.

That’s pretty much where we want to be.

AUGUST 13-15, 2010 • SAN DIEGO CA

The most comprehensive business to business marketplace for surf, skate, swim, moto, music, art and youth culture lifestyle brands in the Western Hemisphere.

ASR Marketplace is the platform for Retailers from around the world to do business with over 500 authentic action sports brands.

Any desire to slow down?

KM: Not at this particular time.

What do you each love most about your job?

GC: The challenge of staying alive and averting those near-death experiences keeps you young and fresh and your mind working. But I love the people part

Register today: www.ASRbiz.com Interested in exhibiting? Contact dan.moylan@nielsen.com

made you look handmade in the u.s.a.

å

California Dreamin’

Luxury designer Calleen Cordero embraces her West Coast roots, offering an eclectic array of styles each season.

By Leslie Shiers

From top: Calleen Cordero; the factory’s artisanal manufacturing process; a recent ad and boot design; Cordero’s Los Angeles boutique.

40 footwearplusmagazine.com • june 2010

“AT AGE 17, my Friday nights were spent studying every angle of my shoes,” confesses Calleen Cordero, who at that point had already been working at a high-end footwear boutique for two years. “The architecture, the balance of footwear has always been fascinating to me.” That appreciation sparked a career that has carried her through virtually every aspect of the biz, from consulting to shoe modeling to store management. When Fred Segal came calling, Cordero relocated from San Francisco to Los Angeles but wouldn’t accept their management position, preferring to work the floor of the Melrose Avenue store herself.

Cordero got her first hands-on shoemaking experience when working with designer Jim Barnier on the revitalization of a domestic brand. But in the ’70s, U.S. manufacturing began to crumble. “California used to be thriving,” Cordero attests, noting she watched factory after factory close its doors. By 1992, she had entered wholesaling, representing brands like Kenneth Cole and Dr. Martens. After a stint at Steve Madden, Cordero began imagining her own name on a shoe box. “I knew I needed to either get out of the business or start my own,” she says, noting a studded, vintage belt sparked her first design idea.

As fate would have it, several Lebanese shoemakers still called California home, and Cordero found one who believed in her.

Inheriting a fully trained staff of 25 from a man exiting the field, Cordero set to work. In 2001, her team unveiled the Calleen Cordero collection—a handmade luxury line with a range that can accommodate virtually every woman’s taste. From sexy to funky to bohemian, “I design all over the board,” Cordero says.

Most of Cordero’s shoes feature the hand-carved wooden soles California manufacturers had been known for, and while imitators have tried, “Nobody out there can do the woods like I’ve done,” she asserts. The artisanal styles, which range in price from roughly $300 to $900, are a favorite of celebs such as Renée Zellweger. Cordero is also committed to eco- and socially conscious production, which she can oversee firsthand every day. Five years ago, she opened a Calleen Cordero store in L.A. to showcase her varied range, and its interiors were built out of locally sourced wood and materials, just like her shoes.

Keeping her factory staff busy can be a challenge, Cordero says, which is why she’s constantly working on something new to offer. Lately, Cordero is seeing a void in classic shapes, and thus clean and simple (“but not conservative”) looks are on the drawing board. At the same time, expect to see her current obsession—precious stones like turquoise and jade—to land on other styles. As Cordero says, “You can get away with a really simple outfit when you’re wearing a fantastic pair of shoes.” •

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