Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2010 • October/November

THE SOURCE FOR RETAILERS • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2010 • $10.00

BATTLE READY

Military Touches March On

THE SOCIAL NETWORK Using Facebook to Build Business

WELLNESS SELLS

Strategies for a Healthy Bottom Line

Q&A: FitFlop’s

Marcia Kilgore

MODERN COMFORT

SPRING’S CANVAS OF BOLD SILHOUETTES AND STARK NEUTRALS

Caroline Diaco Publisher Greg Dutter Editorial Director

10 Face It

16 Selling Wellness

Hands down, Facebook is changing the way people socialize. But could it change how consumers shop? By Angela Velasquez

Four retailers share their perspective on the products, promotions and education vital to introducing consumers to the healthy-shoe category. By Leslie Shiers

12 Q&A: FitFlop Founder Marcia Kilgore discusses why the popular wellness brand is not just a diet supplement but an everyday lifestyle choice for millions of people. By Greg Dutter

Nancy Campbell Creative Director EDITORIAL Leslie Shiers Managing Editor Angela Velasquez Audrey Goodson Associate Editors Roxanne Fequiere Editorial Intern

18 Well Played The latest slate of wellness products to hit the market offer healthy body benefits for a range of activities. By Audrey Goodson

CREATIVE Trevett McCandliss Executive Art Director Phong Q. Nguyen Brad Istnick Lenny Vella Art Directors CONTRIBUTORS Michel Onofrio Style Director Dorothy Hong Photojournalist Kathy Passero Editor at Large Jamie Wetherbe West Coast Editor ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Advertising Director Rita Polidori O’Brien VP Business Development David Sutula VP Technology Leslie Sutula VP Account Services Erwin Pearl Special Accounts Laurie Guptill Production Manager ADMINISTRATION Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager Julie Gibson Webmaster Theodore Hoffman Special Projects Director

26

Twilight Existence Comfort styles in shadowy hues mirror the moody side of adolescence.

Clockwise from left: Blondo cage sandal; patent wedge by Earthies; Tsubo gladiator heel; Naot T-strap; Auri three-buckle wedge. On the cover: Dansko Mary Janes. Photography by Susannah Benjamin.

4 Contributors 6 Editor’s Note 8 This Just In 22 Show Stoppers 24 What’s Selling

25 Trend Spotting 36 Shoe Salon 37 Kids 40 Made You Look

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) Vol. 21 issue #8 The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by 9Threads, 8 West 38th Street, Suite 201, New York, NY, 10018-0150. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. 9Threads will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2010 by 9Threads. Printed in the United States.

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 8 West 38th Street, Ste. 201 New York, NY 10018 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation Office 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@9Threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO

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SUSANNAH BENJAMIN, PHOTOGRAPHER Something of a prodigy in the photographic world, this 17-year-old artist jumped at the chance to shoot a fashion editorial for Footwear Plus. Benjamin, who took up photography at the age of 12, has already landed representation in New York and is making a name for herself through her moody portraits, which weave stories of adolescence, aging, metamorphoses and restrictions. Inspiration is not in short supply, as Benjamin draws from a readily available source: her friends and classmates (pictured below). “I love using real teenagers rather than models—their emotions are more honest and unrehearsed,” she notes. “This shoot was so fun because it combined fashion with my own original style. The idea was to reflect the isolation and simultaneous beauty of high school, following [my muses] in a slightly dreamlike version of the every day.” Connecticut’s Greenwich Academy offered the perfect setting for her narrative, which juxtaposes the discontent of an in-between age with footwear meant to provide reassuring comfort.

MICHEL ONOFRIO, STYLE DIRECTOR A longtime fashion consultant and runway stylist, Onofrio has grown her relationship with Footwear Plus, taking a lead role in the behind-thescenes efforts to showcase the latest shoe designs.

“When I work on a fashion story, everything needs to support the theme,” she explains. “As style director, I help develop that concept and put together the right team to create a visual fantasy.” From finding the perfect dress or accessory to sourcing the best photographer and models to capture the look, Onofrio brings seeds of ideas to life, drawing from her experience with editorial shoots, advertising campaigns and more. She enjoyed overseeing A4 magazine’s fashion and had a blast creating spreads for the German title Zoo, but her latest role—as mom to 8-month-old TJ—marks her greatest accomplishment to date.

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editor’s note fighting the good fight 7

Think Pink

“Sometimes you get sick and you don’t get better/ That’s when life is short even in its longest days.”

—John Mellencamp

New Balance

Dansko

Skechers Shape-Ups

Alegria

Pretty in pink: A portion of sales from these specially designed shoes go to breast cancer awareness and research efforts.

EACH OCTOBER OUR industry puts its best foot forward, taking part in Breast Cancer Awareness month, which is highlighted by the QVC/FFANY Shoes on Sale extravaganza in New York. This expansive effort to raise awareness and much-needed funds is actually a year-round drive, and I’m proud to be associated with so many compassionate and committed individuals who are doing whatever they can to help treat and find a cure for this deadly disease.

It wasn’t until this past summer that a person close to me was diagnosed with breast cancer. That’s when I got a firsthand education on just how indiscriminate, scary, painful and relentless this form of cancer can be. And then there’s the treatment process, which in our family’s case has been a cauldron of pain (both physical and emotional), exasperation, confusion, humiliation, desperation, and insensitivity—and sometimes ineptitude—on the part of doctors.

It’s easy to tell someone that they just have to fight the disease, but I’m not the one who, for years, went for regular mammograms and was always told everything was fine. I was not the one who, out of the clear blue, was informed that I needed a double mastectomy immediately, followed by months of chemotherapy. I was not the one who was initially assured by a surgeon that the disease had been caught early and treatment would be minimal, only to learn after surgery that the disease was further advanced, the outcome less predictable and the necessary treatment much more intensive. I was not the one who, after undergoing painful reconstructive surgery, was notified that all of the progress could be ruined by the months of radiation treatments that would be needed post-chemotherapy. It was not me on the receiving end of news from doctors whose one-time confidence gradually disintegrated into tight-lipped uncertainty. Finally, I was not the one gallantly masking suffering and anxiety with a warm smile whenever a beloved 7-year-old granddaughter was in the room.

So now I know more than I ever wanted to about the toll breast cancer inflicts on a human being and the importance of raising awareness and funds to combat this disease. To that end, Footwear Plus will continue do whatever it can to support our industry-wide efforts. For starters, keep sending us news of your cause-related marketing initiatives, beginning with calls to action and success stories. Coverage of such efforts will hopefully prove contagious—in a good way—and spur others to join this worthy fight.

As we all know, most women adore shoes. Their ongoing love affair accounts for billions of dollars in footwear sales year after year.

Supporting efforts to find a cure for breast cancer is the very least we can do for our most loyal and profitable customer base. I mean, just where would we be without women? If I’ve learned anything in my 40-plus years, it’s that this question goes way beyond shoe sales.

Greg Dutter, Editorial Director ShoeDazzle

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THIS JUST IN

Reigning Men

8

Drawing the preppy, the snappy and the handsomely natty, New York’s MercedesBenz Fashion Week served as a stomping ground for guys with stand-alone air.

By Dorothy Hong

SPECIAL REPORT

Face It

It’s no secret that Facebook is changing the way people socialize.

But can it change how consumers shop? By Angela Velasquez

CALL FACEBOOK THE new coffee shop, says Melissa Lacitignola, web marketing manager for Zappos.com. “People spend a huge amount of time during their day on the site,” she explains. As a matter of fact, we’re spending 700 billion minutes per month Facebooking, according to a recent report by the social network. “It’s become one of the fastest channels a retailer can [use to] expand its reach because the audience is there and waiting for new information,” reports David Sutula, vice president of technology for 9Threads, a strategic marketing and custom content agency and parent company of Footwear Plus. With more than 500 million active users and at least 30 billion pieces of content (web links, news stories, notes and photo albums) created and shared each month, the six-year-old Facebook has evolved from a tech-y way to stay in touch with friends into a global, multimedia billboard for businesses—all at an attractive price: free.

But is it worth the manpower (an expense of time and/or money) to continually update one’s page? Is it worth trying to respond to comments or requests that may mushroom into the thousands? Is the feedback meaningful enough to even warrant a response? The jury is still out on whether a retailer’s presence on Facebook translates to a guarantee of increased sales. In the meantime, Gary Peltz, vice president and CEO of Peltz Shoe Store in St. Petersburg, FL, claims the site does an excellent job in helping his store stay fresh in the minds of potential customers. Amos Hunter, web administrator for Imelda Shoes and Louie’s Shoes for Men in Portland, OR, shares Peltz’s sentiment: “Facebook is great because it allows us to connect to our core customers.

The people who track us are likely to be the people interested in buying from us.”

Here, retailers and social media experts offer simple ways businesses can capitalize on the Facebook phenomenon.

OWN IT One of the biggest stumbling blocks, Sutula claims, is treating a company page like a personal page. “A store’s Facebook page should not be full of personal whims and observations,” he explains, “but instead be loaded with actual content about sales, new products, events and other business-related information.” Hunter admits he’s often tempted to post his personal musings or random tidbits—a recent in-store celebrity sighting made the news feed, for example. But more often than not, Hunter plies the page with information and photos of fresh products—usually when that merchandise is still in the backroom. “We like to give our Facebook friends a first look,” he says.

With the right audience, those snapshots can provoke visits to the store.

Erin Miller, buyer for Salem, OR-based Footwear Express, notices a lot of customers referencing products she highlights on the store’s Facebook page. “Dansko, in particular, generates a lot of buzz because the brand has 10 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2010

a strong following,” she reports. Hunter says customers come in asking for shoes they’ve seen on the site. “It’s a great way to see which styles are going to be a big success even before they hit the selling floor,” he adds.

Unique, store-specific news—like Hunter’s “This just in” posts—can up a Facebook page’s ante and drive repeat visitors to the site. David Wilson, owner of search engine marketing company Braveheart Designs, advises retailers to not rely on recycled news. “Make your Facebook page the only source for some information,” he says. Alex Mendoza, managing partner for Stylophane, an online marketing and design firm, recommends retailers design their Facebook page to reflect the company’s other marketing efforts. Sutula lauds Diesel, Levi’s and Victoria’s Secret for their contentfilled Facebook pages that mimic the branding consumers recognize from stores, TV commercials, print ads and official websites.

The glue that binds it together, Sutula says, is keeping the company’s voice intact through all channels. “Whether that means having one employee be the point person or involves getting a group of employees all on

the same page, a single distinctive voice should be heard,” he says. Hiring someone who is enthusiastic about Facebook is a step in the right direction. Peltz has an employee “privy to social media” working on the store’s page. Additionally, he says many of the other staff members have helped start conversations on the store’s Facebook message wall. “Identify these workers and enable them,” Sutula asserts. “Let go and empower a younger person who is social media savvy, even if they don’t have years of industry knowledge.”

UPDATE IT When retailers tell Wilson they want to create a Facebook page, he first asks what their intended goal is. “The answer, ‘Everyone is doing it’ isn’t enough,” he says. Whether it be a plan to gain 50 new fans a month or steer traffic to the store’s official website, retailers should set a way to monitor success. Wilson likens the Facebook boom to the surge of websites that cropped up 10 years ago. “So many people created a website because they thought it was the popular thing to do, but then they left it. The website was never updated,” he says. An out-of-date website—or Facebook >39

FIT TO BE TRIED

O&A MARCIA KILGORE WEARS FitFlops regularly, if not daily. And she most likely would be just as loyal a customer even if she didn’t happen to be the founder and CEO of the wildly popular wellness footwear brand that has sold more than 5 million pairs in just four seasons. The main reason being that Kilgore is definitely one of FitFlop’s target customers: She’s a working mother of two trying to juggle an ever-hectic career, family and social life all while doing her best to be healthy in both mind and body. That includes eating right, exercising regularly and—let’s be completely vain here—doing one’s damnedest to ward off signs of aging any way humanly possible.

It’s a description that encompasses pretty much every woman age 25 and up. And if anyone has a read on this customer’s wants, needs, fears, demands and secret desires, it’s Kilgore—the entrepreneurial dynamo behind the Bliss Spa chain (started in 1996) and the Soap & Glory bath and body products brand (established in 2006). Along the way, Kilgore found time in 2006 to squeeze in the launch of FitFlop footwear, riding the zeitgeist of the wellness craze as the shaping and toning shoe category kicked into explosive-growth mode.

“I knew from my years of working as a beauty therapist that women will try almost anything to help prevent and tackle cellulite as well as try and keep fit,” the London-based entrepreneur says. “Women are even more likely to stick with a leg-toning regimen that only requires a little bit of input on their part.” Kilgore believes that women feel better when they are proactive, and 12 footwearplusmagazine.com

Marcia Kilgore, founder and CEO of FitFlop, dishes on why the wellness brand is a lifelong, everyday solution for millions of consumers in addition to those just seeking tighter buns. By Greg Dutter

O&A Maybe Kilgore’s answer is not all that surprising, adds, “We user-trialed, safety-tested and wearwhile diet and exercise are no-brainers, there are considering her business track record: “Frankly, tested the shoes extensively—all the same things other means to achieving greater fitness—like if I know I’ll buy something, then I use the ratioyou do before launching a face cream.” wearing a pair of FitFlops regularly. “What we nale that there must be other women out there Since both Kilgore’s spa and beauty care girls—and guys—need is something like a fliplike me—ones with the same problems, the same companies have been highly successful (LMVH flop, that tones and trims our legs while we run shortage of time and the same crazy errands—without breaking the bank,” schedules—that would buy it, too,” exshe offers. “We have no free time. We plains the 42-year-old exec. want a workout while we walk.”

According to her research, marketThe very first FitFlop styles deliving experts estimate that there are ered on that exact premise: sandals atwhatever I could to not ever What are you reading? basically five types of consumers in tractively priced at around $60 retail have to worry about paying Paco Underhill’s “What the world. The ability to appeal to just and conveniently merchandised on my electricity bill.

Women Want,” which one type amounts to 20 percent of the self-serve, hanging racks. In a sense, details how the global population. “That’s a lot of people,” the company combined a Crocs-like What is your motto? marketplace is turning Kilgore notes. But, she stresses, the merchandising platform with the soMake decisions without female-friendly. idea must first be deemed beneficial; phisticated wellness appeal of MBT in regret so you can enjoy life. and from there, execution is key. “If wearable styles that became as much a What is the last movie you You only go around once.

FitFlops were considered ugly—and, fashion statement as a wellness choice.

You don’t want to spend it saw? Unfortunately, I’m believe me, the fi rst prototypes were Kilgore had once again nailed an unwondering, “What if?” On still trying to find time to horrible-looking—we wouldn’t have discovered market niche and consummy deathbed, am I going watch Seasons 5 through the same success that we currently ers have responded. to wish that I took another 7 of “The West Wing.” have with them.” No matter how good Kilgore says the secret lies in the product development meetThey’re still wrapped in an idea may be, Kilgore is under the brand’s patent-pending, Microwobblecellophane, but I do aspire. ing or attended my son’s fi rm belief that if the design is unboard technology, which is clinically school sports day? The sightly, then the product is simply not proven to increase the engagement answer is always obvious.

What famous person going to fly. of the wearer’s muscles during every in history to you adKilgore’s approach is blending wellstep, helping to tone muscles, improve Who do you think is the mire? Winston Churchill ness attributes with wearable styles. “I balance and posture, and relieve foot world’s most influential would be my ideal dinner see FitFlop as the original innovator and joint pain. The Microwobbleperson from a fashguest—he was a force full in fashionable, functional footwear,” board consists of a biomechanically ion perspective? Yohji of impeccably crafted she says. “Other wellness shoes tend engineered triple-density midsole Yamamoto, by a runway one-liners. And, as a to be unattractive aesthetically—more construction broken into regions of and a half. He designs for copywriter, I admire Dr. orthotic in appearance.” But, Kilgore high, low and mid density. Compared people who are dressing for Seuss. He didn’t put the muses, “Why do wellness shoes have to traditional shoe constructions, the typical boundaries around themselves, rather than for to look ‘good for you?’” In contrast, high-density area (located in the heel) his work. He wasn’t a slave anyone else. I think he’s a she believes FitFlop is forging a new is said to absorb up to 22-percent genius. to syntax, a dictionary or category within wellness footwear: more shock, which alleviates stress on reality. If you can think one that combines on-trend styles the joints. The low-density section, loWhat is your favorite like that, you make your suitable for a variety of weather and cated through the mid portion of the hometown memory? own reality. wearing occasions with its unique midsole, creates instability and thus Growing up in suburban thigh-toning, foot-flexing, bottomincreases leg muscle activation by up Outlook, Saskatchewan, in If you could hire anyone benefiting biomechanics built in. Or, to 16 percent. And in the forefoot area, who would it be and why? Canada, there were lots of as Kilgore—also a whiz at creating the mid-density area reportedly helps neighborhood kids, lots of Mary Poppins, to work her catchy promotional copy—puts it: maintain speed, pace and variation.

Polish food—which my hips magic on my home and “Our shoes are designed to keep you The Microwobbleboard was created are regretting now—great kids’ playroom. and your wardrobe in shape.” in collaboration between Kilgore and birthday parties, and a Dr. David Cook and Darren James, steady and stable kind of What did you want to be How were sales this year? biomechanists at London’s South Bank love from my mum. when you grew up? To do FitFlop has had another amazing University. Dr. Richard Jones and year. The [wellness] category is defiDr. Phillip Graham-Smith of Salford nitely gaining more followers, and University then independently veriour move into closed footwear and also men’s acquired a majority stake in Bliss in 1999 for a fied the technology’s benefits. In fact, FitFlop and kids styles has helped us tremendously. reported $30 million), logic suggests that folwent through an extensive R&D process—not lowing a similar methodology would equate to unlike the method Kilgore used in developing How do you define wellness footwear? success for FitFlop. But did Kilgore envision the her beauty care products. “There are so many For FitFlop, wellness footwear means shoes that brand would sell 5 million pairs in just a few similarities between the beauty and footwear make you feel energized and great while wearshort seasons? And let’s remember: during the industries,” she notes. “I had to find my ‘chemist’ ing. It’s a shoe that works for you, not against. first few seasons, the growth came from a single [a biomechanist], then I had to find a manufacSpecifically, our Microwobbleboard technology silhouette—the brand’s signature thong sandal. turer and a designer to make the molds.” Kilgore

OFF THE CUFF

14 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2010

is unique and is biomechanically and ergonomically engineered. And while it’s clear from the wealth of wellness footwear now on the market that each brand subscribes to its own technology and design, there are many brands that feature poorly developed technologies and lack scientifically rigorous research, which is what is attracting so much criticism.

Might the hype render the category a passing fad?

The danger, as far as I am concerned, is that brands are proliferating the market with poorly engineered technologies and outrageously unsupported claims. In contrast to rocker-sole shoes, FitFlop footwear is ergonomically engineered to mimic aspects of barefoot walking and emulates a natural heel-to-toe gait. So you don’t have to change the way you walk when wearing our shoes. They don’t make you walk differently—because you shouldn’t walk differently. They just make your leg muscles and glutes engage more while you walk. It’s like a free prize built into your shoes. Who doesn’t want that?

So would you describe FitFlop as a wellness brand or a fashion brand that happens to have wellness attributes?

FitFlop is definitely a wellness brand but with trend-friendly aesthetics built in. That’s why fashionistas are swapping their four-inch heels in favor of FitFlops, because smart women wear our shoes to give themselves a workout while they walk. Julianne Moore and Chelsea Clinton have recently been seen sporting them.

What are you doing to make FitFlop stand out in a crowded field?

If the incredible feedback on our Microwobbleboard technology is anything to go by, then that [itself] should be more than enough to make FitFlop stand out from the crowd. We have thousands of customer testimonials, we are recommended by hundreds of medical professionals, and we are recognized as being beneficial for foot health by the American Podiatric Medical Association. Our wealth of biomechanical and fitness benefits provides that distinction. In addition, I think that—as the original leg- and bottomtoning sandal— FitFlop never conformed to the “wellness” mold as it was.

So FitFlop is really more of a lifestyle brand?

The FitFlop brand captures the zeitgeist. It’s footwear that fits the way we feel. The world has changed, and so has our outlook along with it. We’re in the mood for clothes that work with us. FitFlop delivers multitasking foot fashion that we’ll wear and wear.

The ability to help form tighter buns is, ahem, “butt” one aspect of the brand’s success.

Yes. It’s a combination of convenience, affordability and a product that is appealing to wear with a credible performance promise.

Who exactly is the FitFlop customer? And is that person different from the subject other wellness brands are targeting?

FitFlop is a smart choice for smart women and men who want to feel >38

SELLING WELLNESS Four retailers addressing different niches share their approach to vending health-benefiting footwear.

By Leslie Shiers

B

Y NOW IT’S clear consumers are buying into the wellness category’s promises of tighter tushies, better alignment and squishier joints. But given the explosion of healthoriented technologies—rocker bottoms, negative-heel angles, minimalist designs, Bosu ball–inspired soles and heel springs, just to name a few, the segment’s not getting any easier for retailers to navigate. Getting shoppers into the most appropriate wellness shoe requires paying special attention on the sales floor and stocking a variety of products designed to meet their demands.

Here, four retailers—a health-oriented store, a running shop, an outdoor specialist and a head-to-toe wellness store—weigh in on what wellness means to them, and what’s working when it comes to selling shoes of this ilk.

HE A LT H F I R ST Promising expert fitting and solutions that will alleviate the wearer’s pain, Shoes-N-Feet sells footwear designed to make movement easy and comfortable. The family-owned company has eight stores in California, Iowa and Washington, and according to Chris Bentvelzen, owner of the San Francisco location, the wellness category fits perfectly into the retailer’s health-encompassing mission.

Whether it’s shoes boasting a rocker sole or alignment capabilities, Shoes-N-Feet sees each pair as a medical tool first and foremost. Bentvelzen and his staff view their product assortment—from New Balance’s TrueBalance line to Ryn and Cogent shoes—as an arsenal of ways to alleviate issues such as plantar fasciitis or aggravated pressure points.

But there are a few products Shoes-N-Feet won’t sell, Bentvelzen says.

Vibram FiveFingers is one: “For some people, they will be fine. But I’m interested to see how many [wearers] will start to have forefoot or joint issues. I’m starting to see some of that already.” Rather than barefoot styles, Shoes-N-Feet sells shoes that offer better motion control. “Most of my customers are having foot problems and are wearing orthotics,” Bentvelzen explains. “They need to have their shoes control some of

16 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2010

their motion and gait. That type of minimalist-style shoe doesn’t fit our niche.” While some customers have inquired about FiveFingers, the storeowner prefers to stay true to the business’ core message.

The San Francisco store is seeing success with rocker-sole shoes that still offer some stability and come in at a mid-range price point. (Bentvelzen says this is why he moved away from MBTs, which were too wobbly for his customers—many of whom wear orthotics—and were a bit too pricey.) Bentvelzen also expects Aetrex’s forthcoming toning line will do well, due to its assortment of widths.

The Shoes-N-Feet staff test all of the store’s shoes so they can determine which are most effective and relay their wearing experience to customers. “If there’s not an immediate feeling of relief, we have to explain what’s going to happen over time,” Bentvelzen notes. “Consumers have to blindly trust us to a degree.” On the flipside, just because a style works for one person doesn’t mean it will suit the next. “You can read all of the studies out there, but we don’t live in a black-and-white world,” he asserts. “We have to lay out [customer] expectations so we don’t over-promise.”

Ultimately, Bentzelven believes knowledge sharing is key in the wellness category’s sustainability. “It comes down to being educated on the product and listening to the customer’s needs.” From there, he adds, a retailer can say to them, “this might be a shoe that works for you.”

THE BIG PICTURE For Cam White and Celia Tellez, owners of Total Relief Footwear in Austin, TX, wellness is the sole focus. “Baby boomers aren’t getting any younger,” White notes of his target clientele. Total Relief aims to keep this group active by staving off any physical aches and pains via healthenhancing footwear.

When the couple opened their store in February of 2004, few shoes were being touted as “healthy,” White notes. But they were convinced that shoes could solve many of the physical problems that plague adults of a certain age, having experienced positive results themselves. Once overweight, White says it wasn’t until he stepped into Z-Coil shoes that he felt an ease of movement that helped him to become more active and eventually lose more than 50 pounds. Tellez also found Z-Coil’s product life-changing, as her pair caused her previously in-

tractable foot pain to dissipate. Also around this time, MBT was bringing attention to the fledgling wellness category—and White and Tellez had found a retail niche they could wholeheartedly champion.

Thanks to the widespread marketing of Skechers’ Shape-Ups, White says customers are now willing to try rocker-bottom soles and open to other wellness technologies, too.

The trouble is that, thanks to the onslaught of brands jumping on the bandwagon, “Consumers are confused [about] what to buy,” he says, noting retailers are equally perplexed when it comes to determining what to sell. For White, it boils down to learning the ins and outs of each manufacturer’s technology and differentiating points, choosing what will work for his particular clientele and then sharing that information with each individual who walks through the door. “There has to be a reason you’re bringing the shoes into your store—and not because it’s the hot product with the biggest advertising budget,” he asserts.

For customers just being introduced to rocker-bottom shoes, White has produced a YouTube video that presents the concept in full. But the real sell starts with one-on-one customer contact. “We’re not about pushing brands or selling shoes,” White says. “It’s about solving problems. We know that when people walk in our store, there’s a reason they’ve come to us.” Total Relief ’s employees—each of whom has worked at the store for at least three years and is thoroughly educated on feet, the human body and every shoe sold in the store—will typically spend 30 to 60 minutes with each customer. The staff ’s intent is to learn their problems, preferences, goals and activities through questioning, motion assessments and foot scans (using Aetrex’s in-store iStep scanning machine). They then use that information to determine which products to prescribe from their stock, which includes styles from Z-Coil, MBT, Ryn, Tenevis, FitFlop, Alegria, Keen, Brooks and Aetrex.

White says customers are liking fitness and toning shoes from Ryn and Tenevis, the latter of which he believes is a brand to watch for 2011. He’s also enthusiastic about comfort companies’ wellness extensions. Total Relief will receive Aetrex’s Bodyworks line at the end of the year, and White also plans to evaluate Waldläufer’s “dynamic walking” shoes.

Uncovering promising new lines is a part of the job White truly enjoys, and he says you’ll often catch him scoping out the lesser-trafficked booths at any given trade show. “[A line] doesn’t have to have any marketing behind it,” he notes. “If it has a ‘wow’ factor, I don’t care what brand it is.” If a manufacturer can deliver real results, customers will see the value and not balk—no matter the price tag,

White reports. However, he swears he’ll never put money into a brand with mixed results.

F I T NESS & FORM For Playmakers, a running specialty shop in Okemos, MI, wellness shoes aren’t so much a means of avoiding the aches and pains associated with aging but rather the injuries and weaknesses that can threaten an athlete’s activity. The store hosts regular injury clinics, and according to president and owner Curt Munson, far too many people are signing up.

“We want to cut that [attendance] down,” he notes. “That means getting people in the right footwear and educating them on proper running and walking form.”

Munson is confident that the burgeoning wellness movement can help solve this dilemma.

From the book “Born to Run” to the ChiRunning practice to the movement-based Alexander Technique, the latest philosophies regarding smart running and kinesiology are being reflected by the latest shoes to hit the market.

All preach a common cornerstone: good form.

“The big thing is getting people to walk or run naturally so that they can keep doing so, and not wear their joints down and become injured.”

Along with staple running and outdoor brands, Playmakers offers a variety of footwear that hinges on the wellness message,

such as rocker-sole styles by MBT and Skechers Shape-Ups, which Munson believes have merit when used properly. In addition, the store carries brands like Birkenstock, Earth and Naot—lines that have long had a foot in the world of comfort and head-to-toe alignment. But Munson is most excited about athletic brands’ minimalistic directions: He strongly believes in Vibram FiveFingers’ ability to strengthen feet and get runners to reevaluate their form, and has created an entire section to merchandise that product line. He also sees great potential in Terra Plana’s forthcoming Vivobarefoot additions, Merrell’s new barefoot running product and the New Balance Minimus line. While the motion control category is still around, Munson has noticed it slowing and predicts it will continue to shrink as more people catch on to barefoot running.

However, Munson thinks the shoes available today are a mixed bag, which is why it’s so important that wearers learn how to use them successfully. (Regarding rocker soles, for example, “You have to be conscious of your balance and not put stress on your knees,” he notes.) Shoe-shoppers at Playmakers get a thorough initial evaluation—from foot measurement to gait assessment to one-legged balance drills—so the employees can get a sense of each individual’s biomechanics. >21 Clockwise from far left: Chris Bentvelzen of Shoes-N-Feet; Celia Tellez and Cam White of Total Relief Footwear; the facade of Playmakers.

october/november 2010 • footwearplusmagazine.com 17

WELL PLAYED The wellness category continues to expand exponentially, meeting the increasing consumer desire for shoes that provide toning, alignment and natural motion for a range of sports and daily activities.

By Audrey Goodson

FROM BASKETBALL HI-TOPS to hiking sandals, the growing number of shoes offering benefits for the body— from toning and shaping to better biomechanical form—is providing a wealth of options for consumers seeking healthy footwear. Once the domain of unusual-looking platform rockers made by MBT and the equally quirky glove-like Vibram FiveFingers, the category continues its rapid expansion for Spring ’11, featuring styles designed to deliver wellness attributes for a variety of sports and everyday activities—with a new emphasis on fashion. In forthcoming collections for spring, we’ve spotted lower-profile rocker soles, trendy sandal silhouettes and guy-friendly street styles. Even natural motion footwear is now packaged in more traditional shoe designs, as seen in the Merrell Barefoot collection.

While the wellness category may still be in its infancy, the feeling among industry analysts is that its healthy-for-you premise is here to stay. “The success will come when the brands switch from the toning and shaping message to wellness and comfort,” confirms Marshal

18 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2010

Cohen, chief industry analyst for NPD Group, a consumer market research firm that tracks the footwear industry.

According to NPD’s numbers, toning and shaping category sales spiked 400 percent between September 2009 and August 2010 for a total of $586 million. And those figures don’t include sales in the natural motion category, which according to Cohen is also gaining tremendous traction.

“I see more and more footwear brands and shoppers jumping on the ‘barefoot’ bandwagon—and we’ve carried the technology from day one, so I’m certainly glad it’s happening,” reports Janice Abernethy, president of Abbadabba’s, a comfort footwear chain with five locations in the Atlanta area. While the technology might be catching on, the barefoot movement’s current niche means there are lots of opportunities for expansion in the upcoming season and beyond, says David Helter, specialty sales director for Ecco, which joined the minimalist market with its BIOM line of barefoot running, golf and soon-to-be-released training shoes. “The natural motion category is still very new with only a handful of players involved,” he adds. “The larger, traditional brands like Asics, Mizuno, New Balance and Saucony are rushing to introduce some product, and since many premiere running specialty stores have also been slow to react to and merchandise this trend, the growth in natural motion and minimalist footwear will be huge in 2011.”

Peter Hanig, owner of Hanig’s Footwear in Chicago, agrees. “It’s in a rapid growth mode, but my feeling is that it’s a category that will become a significant part of the business,” he says, noting that his store will be adding the Merrell and New Balance barefoot lines for spring. Hanig sees the category continuing its expansion into casual footwear in the future, while Helter believes the barefoot movement will also branch into a variety of sports—including hiking boots and sandals, which seem to be the spring’s new must-have items.

After a close examination of many of the new products on the market, it’s clear that the wellness category is expanding in many different—and aesthetically appealing—new directions. Read on for our roundup of the latest and greatest from established and emerging brands.

New Balance Premise: “Better than barefoot” is the tempting experience New Balance is promising wearers with its new NB Minimus collection, which includes running, walking and trail shoes. The lightweight collection for men and women is designed with a significantly smaller drop from heel to forefoot than New Balance’s traditional running shoes, encouraging the mid-foot landing that barefoot enthusiasts claim is so beneficial for the body.

Pitch: Newbies to natural motion will find New Balance’s more traditional shoes a less intimidating introduction to the barefoot concept. Plus, the brand is emphasizing a gradual transition to minimalistic footwear, stressing education to help runners avoid injuries and keep them coming back for more.

Price: $100

Terra Plana Premise: Taking the “bare” concept even further, Terra Plana’s Vivobarefoot sub-brand introduces two new slimmed-down styles that mimic the feeling of running sans shoes. The Achilles, a multi-terrain running sandal, is built with a removable strap and extra front-medial support for enhanced balance around the ball of the foot. Meanwhile, the Ultra is a Crocs-like, fully molded amphibious running shoe with an optional plug-in sock to keep feet cozy on cool mornings.

Pitch: Hardcore adherents to the barefoot running concept will now have options made of even less material— and thus ideal for beach runs or splashing through trail streams— that still bring the benefits of Vivobarefoot’s technology.

Price: Achilles, $60; Ultra, $75

Ecco Premise: Ecco says shoppers sprinted to stores to snap up its natural motion running shoes, so it’s no surprise the company is expanding its BIOM collection to include a crosstrainer. The new line of men’s and women’s training shoes feature a lightweight sole, grip and abrasion resistance for lateral movements, and natural foot support for all kinds of sports— from running to aerobics classes.

Pitch: Gym rats who want a comfortable and effective workout will appreciate the technology in the BIOM Trainer, which allows the foot to follow its natural motion and helps strengthen muscles in the feet and calves. Plus, a yak leather version should please fashion-conscious fitness buffs.

Price: $145-$170

Ryn Premise: Korean footwear company Ryn adds to its line of “seven layer” rocker-sole shoes with the Sierra, an all-terrain sandal. The lightweight sandal’s speed-lacing system locks for a snug fit, ideal for allowing the foot to mimic the natural strike—even on a rugged terrain.

Pitch: Outdoor enthusiasts will enjoy blazing trails with the added bonus of toning their glutes, thighs, calves and back muscles.

Price: $245

Ektio Shoes Premise: The new basketball shoe brand Ektio boasts major wellness credibility: Launched by a radiologist with help from an orthopedic surgeon and podiatrist, the trio set out to create a hi-top sneaker that would allow the foot to simulate the barefoot experience, preventing ankle sprains and injuries. The bumpers at the sneaker’s base prevent the foot from rolling, while built-in interior straps act like traditional tapes and braces, keeping the foot and shoe moving as one.

Pitch: Athletes of all ages who spend a lot of time on the court will be happy to ditch the tape—and ankle injuries.

The brand is outfitting the men’s and women’s teams at Centenary College in New Jersey and has plans to expand to the NBA. Price: $199

“THE SUCCESS WILL COME WHEN THE BRANDS SWITCH FROM THE TONING AND SHAPING MESSAGE TO WELLNESS AND COMFORT.” —Marshal Cohen, Chief Industry Analyst, NPD Group october/november 2010 • footwearplusmagazine.com 19

Vasyli Premise: Wellness shoe company Vasyli is getting a boost from a big name: Dr. Andrew Weil, the popular expert on health and integrative medicine and a frequent Oprah guest. The doctor’s Integrative Footwear collection of natural motion footwear promises to restore foot alignment, improve balance and posture, and ramp up overall energy using a combination of new and existing Vasyli technologies that assist forefoot mobility and gait efficiency and aid in rearfoot alignment and function.

Pitch: The collection of sandals for men and women will appeal to fans of Dr. Weil who embrace his focus on natural, healthy living.

Price: $89.95 to $119.95

Merrell Premise: With shoes named “Tough Glove” and “Power Glove,” Merrell is making it clear that its new barefoot line is ready to rumble in an increasingly crowded natural motion market. The company partnered with Vibram to create a line of six minimalist styles for men and women that combine the barefoot concept with a more traditional outdoor shoe design.

Pitch: Natural motion purists will be pleased to learn that the Merrell Barefoot collection features a Vibram Trail Glove

sole and Merrell’s proprietary Omni-Fit lacing system, making the line ideal for conquering all kinds of terrain. Novices should be hooked by the stylish design and slightly increased cushioning in the forefoot, tongue and heel compared to Vibram’s Five Fingers model.

Price: $90 to $120

Saucony Premise: Building on the success of its award-winning minimalist running shoe, the ProGrid Kinvara, Saucony is introducing the ProGrid Peregrine, a new style designed especially for trail runners seeking a barefoot experience.

Pitch: The Peregrine’s hightraction carbon rubber outsole will help hikers keep a steady and safe grip on rocky terrain while the shoe’s memory foam heel pods provide a bit more comfort than a completely barefoot experience.

Price: $90

“I SEE MORE AND MORE FOOTWEAR BRANDS AND SHOPPERS JUMPING ON THE ‘BAREFOOT’ BANDWAGON.” —Janice Abernethy, president, Abbadabba’s

20 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2010

SHADES OF NEW In addition to the array of new natural motion and toning technologies on the market, shoppers will have a plethora of picks for stylish new options from existing wellness lines. —A.G.

REEBOK EASYTONE FLASH Targeted to a slightly younger consumer, the newest EasyTone walking shoe should tempt consumers with its sleeker mesh upper design. $99.99

EARTH EXQUISITE Capitalizing on the braided-sandal trend, this design features Earth’s signature negative heel design, anatomic arch support and ecofriendly footbed. $129

FINN COMFORT’S FINNAMIC IKEBUKURO Launched last year, the Finnamic line brought fans of the upscale German comfort brand a rocker sole option. The new Ikebukuro style is a funky metallic fashion statement. $355

ALEGRIA CARINA Look for 11 new styles—including this sandal—from Alegria this spring, all featuring the brand’s trademark rocker bottom and “perfect fit” footbed system. $89.95

MBT NAFASI Continuing its expansion of fashionfriendly silhouettes with a slightly lower profile, MBT is introducing several luxury styles made of rich nubuck and full grain leathers, like the Nafasi style for men. $265

Selling Wellness • continued from page 17

able for uneven trails, he says established comfort and outdoor fitness brands such as Earth, Birkenstock, Merrell, Chaco and Keen also share the message that lies at the root of wellness.

“I like to see what works and what people like,” Burns says, noting that while he hasn’t gotten into the barefoot running market to date, he’s getting customer requests for Vibram FiveFingers almost daily.

Wilderness Adventure will add FiveFingers to its assortment as soon as the vendor can ship to the store. Burns believes they’ll be a surefire hit, as no one else in the area is selling them yet.

When ascertaining which shoes will be the best match for any particular customer, Burns and his staff start with a needs assessment. “When people are looking for a shoe for a wellness program, they usually have in mind what they want. They just need some guidance in fine-tuning their selection,” Burns says. “I like to get several pairs on somebody before letting them walk out the door.

As a sole-door operator, people have to be happy when they wear our shoes, or it’s my reputation [on the line].”

Burns notes that a new Nordic walkOU T D O O R AC T I O N ing club founded Located in Staunton, by the local YMCA VA, a stone’s throw is getting people of from the Appalachian Wilderness Adventure outfits customers for outdoor wellness activities in and around Staunton, VA. all ages interested Trail, Wilderness Adin trekking and venture has beefed up hiking, and he is providing footwear that its footwear assortment to outfit locals can help them get the most out of their for all of their outdoor activities. While trail workouts. He also says his customers owner Robert Burns has stayed away from like to know which products are backed by rocker soles and barefoot styles, noting he the American Podiatric Medical Associadoesn’t like to jump on trends before being tion, noting that stamp of approval can be assured his customers are interested, he’s a strong selling point. Additionally, brands growing increasingly convinced that the that provide POP centered on a wellness wellness category has true staying power. message (like Earth’s “Burn four times “I’m optimistic,” he says. “This seems like more calories” signage) are capturing cona boat we’ve got to get on and ride until it sumers’ attention. runs out of gas. Hopefully it won’t, and will Still, Burns is a bit wary about all of the take on strength and become a segment in wellness products flowing into the industry and of itself.” of late. “When you dilute the market and As the economy worsened, Burns and people are getting knockoffs at Walmart his business partner grew their shoe selecfor $6, it takes the specialness out of it,” he tion, believing that customers might think notes. Wilderness Adventure will go where twice before buying a kayak or camping its consumer base takes it, however—it’s tent but not a pair of shoes. Now footwear merely a matter of responding to their makes up about 40 percent of their busifeedback, Burns attests. “We’re very close to ness. It stocks a wide variety for outside our customers and do as much as possible activities, and while Burns stays away to meet their specific needs.” • from rocker soles that wouldn’t be advis“More and more shoe companies are now realizing the benefits of mimicking a bare foot, but some [styles] are not engineered properly,” Munson says, noting this can trigger pronation and exacerbate other form issues.

“We try to pick the ones that are.” Regardless of the shoe a customer winds up in, Playmakers’ staff encourages awareness of how their foot is landing. Munson says this can mean spending a good amount of time with each customer, but it sets them up for long-term happiness. And should they wind up unhappy with their purchase after taking it home, the store is very lenient about returns.

When it comes to marketing, Munson has plans to host a clinic for physical therapists and doctors to learn about the benefits of health-oriented footwear, and in addition to in-store running form classes, he wants to go out into the community to spread the message. “The biggest thing is continued education,” Munson says, noting this element will be vital in footwear retailers’ success. “People were paranoid at the start of the barefoot running movement, but I see it having a big impact in reducing the number of knee and hip replacements and other [injuries] caused by bad alignment.”

Playmakers’ workshops draw hundreds of runners who want to prevent injuries.

HEALTH HYPE Wellness footwear is inspiring retailers to hold unique promotions to demonstrate how shoes can help with headto-toe well-being. Here are a few ways stores are pushing the concept. —L.S. Schooling the Masses | Walking and running enthusiasts in Okemos, MI, who want to improve their form can attend a class at Playmakers’ running specialy store. The retailer has developed a program called “Good Form Running” in partnership with 2004 Olympian Grant Robison, teaching participants how to avoid unnecessary strain and run faster, easier and with less chance of injury. Several levels are offered weekly; intro classes are free, while advanced clinics cost $25.

By educating customers on proper form and finding them suitable footwear, owner Curt Munson hopes to keep his patrons running without complications well into their old age.

Doctor’s Orders | With much of his business coming from medical referrals, Chris Bentvelzen, owner of San Francisco’s orthopedic-minded Shoes-N-Feet, spends more time promoting his wellness brands to local doctors than directly to customers. He holds lectures for doctors outside the store and meets with them one-on-one to demonstrate the products’ functionality and explain the potential benefits for their patients.

“It gets the doctors informed, and will hopefully turn into referrals,” he says.

An Exercise in Health | Total Relief Footwear of Austin, TX, encourages healthy living and repeat store visits with its “Walk it Off Austin” program.

When customers sign up, they’re weighed in—à la TV’s “The Biggest Loser.” For each pound they lose throughout the calendar year, they receive $1 in store credit. Participants also are encouraged to set a fitness goal (i.e. to lose 25 pounds); if they achieve it, they are surprised with a free pair of shoes courtesy of one of the store’s vendors. Like with New Year’s resolutions, owner Cam White notes most people fall off the wagon, but the initiative does get them revved up and thinking about making lifestyle changes. And, he adds, “It shows we’re a fun member of our community and we care about our customers.”

october/november 2010 • footwearplusmagazine.com 21

S H OW S T O P P E R S

GDS

J.J. Footwear Stuart Weitzman

BOLD BOOTS

King

Lotusse

CONTINENTAL COOL FORGET “LESS IS MORE.” Spring and summer silhouettes are all about warmweather versions of the current boot craze, according to European designers, who showcased their latest footwear collections at the September edition of GDS in Düsseldorf, Germany. With laser-cut details, cheery colors, elaborate straps, and shafts of all shapes and sizes, boots made for a bold and flirty alternative to flip-flops. Even sandals and heels shared in the trend, with lots of lacing and ankle ornamentation gracing the most popular new styles.

Nude hues dominated the season’s palette, with everything from soft suede taupes to burnished brown leathers on shoes for men and women. Aside from neutrals, designers looked to the color wheel for bright primarypigment inspiration. As for modish materials, frayed and woven bits of canvas, linen and denim exuded a natural, casual attitude for summer fun. Fittingly, eco-aware companies proved popular this year, says Kirstin Deutelmoser, project director of the show.

“The consciousness for nature is growing,” she reports. “When nature and couture are combined, brands really have potential for the future.” —Audrey Goodson

Jette

HOT CLOGS

Gabor

Softclox Naturezza

Supertrash

Fiorucci

22 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2010

HTC

UNIQUE CUT-OUTS

UTILITARIAN FABRICS Si by Sinela

Paco Gil

Tentazione

Tamaris Marc

Airstep

Arche

Zinda Jonnys

Via Uno

NUDE HUES

Chinese Laundry

Lotusse

Floris van Bommel

BASIC BRIGHTS

ANKLE ATTIRE

Maki Uehara Tokyo

Pons Quintana

Lusquiños

Naturezza

s.Oliver

Pino Convertini Marithé François Girbaud

Dkode

october/november 2010 • footwearplusmagazine.com 23

what ’s s e l l i n g Portlandia

sit-and -fits

FOOTPRINTS

THE SHOE HUTCH

Still owned by the Cohen family after 31 years, Footprints maintains its momand-pop vibe. Originally a women’s shoe store, today the 30,000-square-foot shop offers footwear for men, women and children as well as a large selection of handbags and other accessories. General manager Peter Frappier says Footprints “covers the gamut” with its shoe selection, but despite the breadth of categories, comfort wear remains the clientele’s most sought-after option.

Owned by the Davenport family for more than 30 years, The Shoe Hutch specializes in the “old-school art of shoe fitting,” reports Tim Davenport, who co-owns the store with his wife, Angie.

Although the shop used to stock kids’ shoes in its 1,500-square-foot space, it recently shed the category and returned to what Davenport calls the business’ true “bread and butter”: comfort-casual brands for men and women, like Hush Puppies, SAS, Rockport and Romika.

Current best-selling brands? New Balance, Clarks, Monroe, Merrell, and—like everybody else—Ugg Australia, of course.

Current best-selling styles? The men’s business is very comfort and casual focused. For women, this fall looks like it’s going to be a very strong bootie and boot season; the new Born boots have been very good [sellers]. For kids, Keen footwear is still very popular.

Best new brand added this year? Fidji.

It’s a little bit comfort and a bit fashion.

Average footwear expenditure per customer? About $100.

Best-selling accessories/add-ons? Our No. 1 seller is Vera Bradley handbags. We also do a nice job with Brighton jewelry.

Is there anything you think is missing from the footwear market? There seems to be a lack of brands out there that are willing to take a risk in adding more sizes and widths in more contemporary styles.

What are your customers’ most frequently cited comfort issues? A comfort issue stems from a fit issue, so when someone comes here, it’s because they haven’t been fitted properly in the past.

How do you convince customers that sit-and-fit service is better than buying online? Once they’re in the store it’s easy, because they see the level of service and product selection we have. The key is getting them here, which is why we’re very aggressive with marketing and advertising in order to drive customers into the store.

Biggest challenge currently facing your business? Competing with Internet retailers and big-box stores that are constantly discounting—because we’re a full-price store.

Current best-selling brands? SAS, Clarks, Rieker and New Balance.

Current best-selling styles? It seems to us like this might be a very good boot year.

Best new footwear brand added this year? Sperry. It’s not a new brand, obviously, but we’re back to them for the first time in a long time and, so far, so good.

We also just received Portlandia, and those shoes look very nice.

Average footwear expenditure per customer? Around $90 to $100.

Any disappointments? The shoe business goes in cycles, and a lot of brands go hot and cold. Timberland has not been so good for a while, but it seems to be on the uptick now.

Average footwear expenditure per customer? Around $90 to $100.

Best-selling accessories/add-ons? We do a big business with SmartWool socks.

Are you seeing more customers asking for toning and shaping shoes? We try and avoid them because we think it’s a gimmick—the hocus pocus of the day.

Are comfort and fashion compatible?

It’s hard, because some of the things that make a shoe fashionable make it uncomfortable, so it’s a trade-off of sorts. Some companies have it pretty well figured out, like Rieker and Clarks.

What are your customers’ most frequently cited comfort issues? Heel slip would be No. 1. The lack of narrow widths in the market is also a big issue.

Biggest challenge currently facing your business? We’ve struggled with the loss of companies due to the recession, like Rogue and Hotter—brands we used to do very good business with. We’re still feeling the loss of Zeeta from a few years back. —Audrey Goodson

Newington, CT

Ugg Australia

Born

New Balance

Clarks

Fidji

Sperry Top-Sider

24 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2010

Corvallis, OR

SPOTTING

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS & CAMPBELL. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

TREND

All-Male Review

Men’s spring casuals go au naturel with gritty suede, smooth leather and tough canvas.

Top row, from left: J. Shoes raw-edge slip-on, Ugg Australia vulcanized slip-on. Middle: sneaker by Simple, Wolverine 1883 slip-on with contrast stitching, Philip Simon lace-up, Cushe leather moc, canvas and suede hi-top by Stonefly. Bottom: Clarks distressed sneaker, Rockport leather and jute lace-up, Birki’s canvas slide.

october/november 2010 • footwearplusmagazine.com 25

HAZY HUES CAST A MOODY SPELL OVER SPRING ‘11 COMFORT FOOTWEAR Pikolino perforated oxford. Billy Reid shirt; model’s own skirt; ankle socks by Falke.

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SHOT ON LOCATION AT GREENWICH ACADEMY IN CONNECTICUT

} } } } } } } } } } } } } 28

MY P R I MARY M U S E I S NAM ED S A S K IA . S H E I S C O N STANTLY TRAN S FO R M I N G I NT O D I FFE R E NT ENTITI ES AN D I S FEATU R ED I N TH E VA ST MAJ O R IT Y O F MY WO R K .

Rockport mesh jazz shoes. Alice Ritter knickers; cardigan by Inhabit; model’s tank; Timo Weiland headband; Falke socks.

Opposite: Alegria stud-embellished thongs. Rieker jeweled sandal. Plaid dress by Joie; Timo Weiland tweed tank and bowtie.

f f f f f f f f f f f f

MY NOTEBOOK IS AN EXTRA APPENDAGE. EVERY PAGE IS CRAMMED WITH SCRIBBLES, IDEAS, STORY LINES, QUOTES AND OTHER SCRAPS THAT WILL EVENTUALLY END UP INSPIRING MY PHOTOS.

Hush Puppies suede oxfords. Model’s own vintage top, kilt and bracelets; Falke socks.

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STYLING BY MICHEL ONOFRIO; HAIR BY REBECCA PLYMATE OF SEE MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY YUKO MIZUNO OF RONA REPRESENTS. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

There is something about the symmetry of Saskia’s face and the paleness of her complexion that encourages me to cast her in thousands of different roles.

Indigo by Clarks peep-toe booties with leather chain detail.

Built by Wendy top; model’s skirt; Falke socks. Sanita ankle-strap clogs. Turtleneck by Petit Bateau; model’s skirt; Falke knee socks.

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MY WORK EXPLORES AGING, ADOLESCENCE, M E TA M O R P H O S E S A N D R E S T R I C T I O N S .

El Naturalista cuffed heel. Billy Reid union suit; Falke knee socks.

Opposite: Lace-up slingback by Camper. Billy Reid bowtie blouse and union suit; top by Alice Ritter; Falke socks.

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Shoe Salon

Designer Chat: Yigal Azrouël

How would you describe your footwear? Architectural, graphic, modern, minimal and fresh.

The craftsmanship and precise attention to detail

Clockwise from top: Velvet Angels bootie, peep-toe boot by Chinese Laundry, Nicole embellished slingback, clog by Philip Simon, Franco Sarto heel.

E D I T O R’ S P I C K S

is evident in every [shoe]. The high quality and the fact that every pair is hand made makes you feel like you are walking away with something special.

Where do you start when dreaming up each new collection? I find inspiration in every aspect of life and interacting with people on a day-to-day basis. You never know what each day will bring.

How would you describe your customer?

She’s strong, confident and modern. I think she expects the same aspects and characteristics in my shoe collection.

36 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2010

Rally the Troops Feminine and military details join forces.

Which shoe designers do you most admire?

Tabitha Simmons and [Charlotte Dellal, designer of ] Charlotte Olympia.

What will we never see in your footwear collections? You will never see me design shoes that have a lot of ornamentation. I like the idea that a shoe can be beautiful in a very clean and minimal way.

What pair of shoes in your closet is getting the most wear of late? Right now I’m wearing the distressed, military-inspired boots from my Spring ’11 men’s runway show.

They are my favorite. —Leslie Shiers

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVETT MCCANDLISS. FASHION EDITOR: LESLIE SHIERS

NEW YORK-BASED ready-to-wear designer Yigal Azrouël has made a mark with the sleek, architectural, wearable apparel label he launched in 1998.

With a name now entrenched in the who’s who of fashion, it was just a matter of time before he added shoes to complete the picture.

Azrouël’s first women’s footwear collection debuted on the models’ feet at his Spring ’11 Fashion Week presentation. “I have always had a desire to launch my own shoe collection,” says the Israeliborn designer, whose past runway collaborations with Manolo Blahnik and Walter Steiger gave him an early taste of shoe design and proved how important footwear can be to completing a headto-toe aesthetic. This season seemed the right time to step out with a line of his own, he adds, noting that developing the 27 styles came very naturally to him. “I took the same approach as I do for clothing design—exploring materials, finishings and actually draping the shoe,” he notes.

Partnering with Peron Inc., a factory near Venice, Italy, known for expert craftsmanship, Azrouël has created flats, heels and open-toe boots boasting various textures. Most styles come in sophisticated black, navy and army green hues, but shoppers will find pops of orange, yellow and silver. The line ($395 to $895 retail) is expected to land in Azrouël’s New York store in January, and the company is also targeting better department stores and designer boutiques.

ATHLETIC

Tween Dreams

Ziggies caters to young fashion plates.

COMFORT DRESS KIDS OUTDOOR

AS ITS WOMEN’S footwear business continues to balloon, ZiGi NY is getting into the girls’ category with a tween spinoff, Ziggies, for Spring ’11.

Despite parents’ inclination to shop stores like Target or Payless given their daughters’ fast-growing feet, ZiGi NY president Andy Petersen believes the brand’s highly embellished, fashion-forward designs are precisely what boutique retailers want and need. “The brands playing [in those stores] have been there for quite some time,” he says. “With the tough economy, retailers haven’t branched out beyond their current vendors. Ziggies is giving them the opportunity to bring in something new to freshen up their floors.”

Petersen notes that his company’s current momentum at retail has led to tons of retailer requests for a kids’ line. To address the wide range of shoe sizes that tweens require, Ziggies offers stylish streetwear product—a mix of takedowns and shoes created just for tweens—in sizes 11 to 5.

Ballet flats, sandals and wedges make up the majority of the initial spring collection, Petersen notes, adding that the brand’s key item—a cuffed sandal loaded with beads and stones—translates perfectly for younger girls. Spring will see a bit of ’70s influence, he says, noting that regardless of the silhouette, you’ll see ZiGi NY’s signature attention to detail via ornate floral embellishments, glitter, beading, sequins and more. Trends and sophistication are key, but wearability and age-appropriateness also factor into the design, Petersen adds. “Obviously, the younger girl wants the trends and fashions her older sister is wearing, but she may not have the maturity level or fash-

WORK

ionista sensibility to pull it off,” he explains. “We have to find that niche: girly fashion flair that caters to a younger customer.”

According to the exec, Ziggies was warmly received by buyers at the August Magic show, where Kitson was the first to sign on for the retail launch.

ZiGi NY’s current customers will naturally be a target for Ziggies, but the company also has an eye on independent children’s boutiques that offer true fashion items. Petersen believes the children’s market holds great potential and expects Ziggies’ size range will eventually encompass toddler product as well with the possibility of accessories down the line.

The spring Ziggies collection is set to retail from $30 to $60. —Leslie Shiers

High Five

Vibram covers tiny toes.

VIBRAM FIVEFINGERS HAVE finally hit critical mass.

The glove-like footwear designed for running and outdoor wear generated the biggest buzz at the Outdoor Retailer trade show for the past two years and this summer popped up on the beach, running trails and even city streets. As more and more adults are convinced that “barefoot” shoes pose real benefits for the body, it was only a matter of time before Vibram extended its unique product to kids. In fact, according to marketing manager Georgia Shaw, “FiveFingers has the potential to transform the children’s market, just as it did the running and fitness markets.”

While “fingered” socks have been a big hit over the years as a kids’ novelty item, FiveFingers brings more scientific clout to the concept. According to Vibram, the five-toed shoes allow the foot to move naturally and stimulate muscles in the feet and lower legs, which is said to improve strength and balance. At the same time, a tough outsole—Vibram’s specialty—provides protection, promoting outdoor play and exploration. It’s a great fi t for the children’s market, given the number of physicians, pedorthists and parents who believe that putting kids in unstructured shoes will help their feet develop more naturally. And, Shaw notes, kids instinctively understand the FiveFingers design. “The concept doesn’t need to be explained to children because it is

simply felt,” she says, adding that youngsters often prefer going shoeless. “We hope to bridge [the] gap between being barefoot and wearing shoes, which will allow kids to develop foot strength safely.”

Vibram has received numerous testimonials from adult consumers about how FiveFingers have positively affected them physically, and Shaw says that their comments, plus research that details how the small muscles of the feet, ankles and legs can weaken due to wearing overly constructed shoes, demonstrate the demand for children’s versions. For Spring ’11, Vibram is introducing its popular KSO style for kids in European sizes 24 to 34 (which will typically fit ages 3 to 8). The style features an upper made of stretchy nylon and mesh that will keep debris out, a Velcro closure, a thin EVA insole for comfort and a nonmarking, razor-siped outsole that will take kids through mud, muck, water and more. The KSO will retail for $60 and come in four colorways for boys and girls: pink/white, pink/lavender, red/gray and blue/gray.

Shaw says the company is initially targeting its current accounts—outdoor, specialty running and specialty footwear stores—with established children’s departments, since their respective expertise will help Vibram build a strong foundation for FiveFingers in its first kids’ season. —L.S. ocotber/november 2010 • footwearplusmagazine.com 37

Q&A • continued from page 15

energetic, more efficient—you workout while you walk—and more ebullient. That includes a mountain of “yummy mummies” wearing our shoes. I’ve also seen them on a lot of young, athletic-looking women with long legs. I also bumped into one woman in Miami who must have been in her 70s wearing a pair while exercise walking with her iPod. Overall, FitFlop has an ubiquitous appeal and—not to sound weird or new age-y—I think it’s because they’re right for the body and they have the right energy. By that I mean, as soon as you put them on, they make you stand up straight. And because they allow the bones in your feet to move more freely and naturally, you don’t feel as restricted. Your legs are not as tired, swollen or stiff, so you have all that transfer of good energy. You stand up tall, you connect with the ground with every aspect of your foot’s plantar surface and you look other human beings in the eyes. There’s no baggage. Call it “freedom of feet.” When you wear a pair of FitFlops, you realize nothing else makes you feel that good—short of narcotics, probably, but I am not an expert there. So the obvious urge is to put them on again and again, and then maybe pick up a couple of other colors and styles. It’s pretty simple: The design is just simply great for the body.

Are you still involved in the design process?

You bet. I am involved in every aspect of the design and development process and simply won’t launch a shoe until we get it right. For example, we have been working on covered footwear for a long time but couldn’t get it right until now. The FF Supertone sneaker is a couple of years in the making, and worth the wait.

What are some other highlights of your Spring ’11 collection?

In our fourth full spring/summer season, we are proud to present our newest collection through a wider-angle lens of “total wellbeing.” While our original FitFlop sandals’ promise of firming, tightening and toning still applies, the Microwobbleboard offers a plethora of unexpected fringe benefits as well. It doesn’t just firm leg muscles. It can make you feel better throughout the body, relieve a variety of aches and pains, and give you superhero levels of energy, according to feedback from thousands of our wearers. Taking that into account, we now have expanded our collection to include styles for men, women and children to suit any weather, including feel-good f lipf lops, sandals, sneakers and slides.

You are a master at building tremendous buzz for your brands. Any advice you can share in this department?

When you are communicating any type of mes-

FitFlop is just the latest successful wellness venture from category pioneer Marcia Kilgore.

sage, first sit back and objectively ask yourself, “So what?” If you can’t answer that question about your own idea, campaign or key message in one or two sentences, it’s not a good enough idea. You have to be really clear and—whatever the idea is— it has to have a [unique selling point] that is easy to identify, easy to explain and remarkable—in other words, interesting enough for someone to actually remark on. If you can’t tick off all of those boxes, you have to go back to the drawing board.

In addition, creating a brand personality is key. For example, we have thousands of Facebook fans, and we devote a lot of energy to interacting with them and encouraging their feedback.

choose and you have to be OK with that. Along those lines, things don’t happen to you, rather you decide what you let happen. It’s a very selfempowering way to look at life. If you think about your choices as being synonymous with sacrifice—whether it involves business or personal matters—you’ll have nobody to blame but yourself. I often refer to this as the “deathbed test.” When confronted with a decision, ask yourself: When I’m on my deathbed, what will I look back and wish I would have done? That’s when answers become pretty obvious.

What might be your next entrepreneurial endeavor? Another footwear brand, perhaps?

If I told you, I might have to kill you.

What do you love most about your job?

I love the fact that FitFlop footwear is genuinely changing people’s lives for the better. People have written to me saying that they have suffered from Morton’s neuroma [a condition that affects one of the nerves that run between the metatarsal bones of the foot], plantar fasciitis and neuropathy, to name a few ailments, but since wearing FitFlop they are now able to walk again pain-free. I actually feel a big responsibility—a sense of, “I need to help these people.” And now that we know that our shoes really can make a difference with respect to so many muscularskeletal conditions, the aim is to try and make our shoes available to all. I’m working on it. Because life is short, so do what you love and success will follow. And if it doesn’t, at least you’ll be happy every day in trying.

What keeps you going into work each day, when many others in your fortunate shoes would have gone on permanent vacation a long time ago?

I believe that you choose where you go, and with that choice comes sacrifice. If you make one choice, you sacrifice the ones you didn’t

Spoken like a true entrepreneur.

I’ve always worked for myself, except for odd parttime jobs as a teenager. When I reached the grand old age of 19, I had figured out that I didn’t want to follow anyone else’s rules. So I haven’t ever really been on the corporate ladder, per se. I prefer to provide the ladder for other people to climb. •

Would you describe yourself now as a footwear fanatic?

You bet! If you happen to pass me on my daily Tube commute to work, don’t be offended if I don’t look you in the eye. Right now, it’s all about feet first for me.

Where do you see FitFlop in three years?

We are looking to develop a full range of footwear while maintaining classic styles that will endure.

I’d like to think that in 10 years, people will be proud to wear some of our original styles.

38 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2010

Special Report • continued from page 10

presence—can do more damage then good. As Wilson points out, “If someone comes along and sees that it hasn’t been tended to for two months, it doesn’t say much for the company.”

There is no golden rule on how many times a company should update its Facebook page, but Sutula stresses consistency. “Find your own pace and schedule. People will learn to start expecting a post from you once a day or once a week,” he affirms. Hunter says he intentionally does not put a lot of time resources into the store’s Facebook page because it’s a free medium. “I usually spend a few minutes a day on the site. That’s all it takes and I think that’s what it deserves at the moment,” he explains. However, Hunter makes a habit of updating the page at least once a day. Lacitignola posts to Zappos’ page at least once a day, but no more than twice.

“We don’t want to spam walls,” she explains. An onslaught of information could make fans hide your news feed or “defriend” (block) your business altogether. For example, John Clark, buyer and social media guru for Skinny Rave Sports in Anchorage, AK, is cautious of pushing “buy, buy, buy” to its Facebook friends. “We use the site to promote sales and merchandise, but we don’t want to scare them away,” he says.

LIKE IT Experts agree: Don’t underestimate the power of Facebook’s “like” button, which allows users to give a thumbs-up recommendation for a particular page. The average Facebook user has 130 friends—a substantial pool of likeminded potential customers who are notified in their news feeds each time a friend “likes” a page. Ideally, Mendoza says, the company or product will also appeal to these Facebook users and the cycle of “liking” will continue. “The more people who like a brand, the better, because it goes viral,”

Wilson explains. Sutula says a good Facebook campaign directs the viewer to a “like” button first instead of the main news feed. Compared to other sites that ask for e-mail addresses or other personal information, “No harm is done by liking a page,” he adds.

Comments left by fans on retailers’ walls appear in the news feeds as well. Lacitignola regularly poses questions to Zappos followers about their favorite trends or styles. These posts help engage users, but Lacitignola says people usually start conversations on their own. “Our fans leave a lot of shout-outs on our wall,” she notes. The company is regularly complimented for its quick delivery and customer service, which Lacitignola believes is the best kind of recommendation. “Their friends see how passionate that person is about the brand. You can’t ask for anything more,” she adds.

Sutula says many retailers are wary of having an open wall and think, “Why provide a forum for negative comments?” He recommends retailers leave negative comments visible on their wall, but only if there is a reason for the remark.

“Your store sucks,” is an unqualified negative and should be removed, he says, but “Your store sucks because…” is legit. “Not having complete control is a hard pill for business owners to swallow, but they should look at it as a chance to quiet the crowd,” he explains. And sometimes a negative can become a positive, which Sutula says is the hallmark of a successful Facebook plan. Case in point: Zappos has received posts from unsatisfied customers and, according to Lacitignola, what typically happens is that the retailer’s fans come to its defense. Lacitignola will address the complaint as well. “Good or bad, make sure you respond to every question and comment,” Wilson notes. “Not responding to a comment is like a company that doesn’t answer or return phone calls. No business would ever do that.”

PUBLISHER’S STATEMENT 1. Publication Title: Footwear Plus. 2. Publication No.: 0006-975. 3. Filing Date 09/29/10. 4. Issue Frequency:monthly except bi-monthly April/May and Oct/Nov. 5. No. of Issues Published Annually: 10. 6. Annual Subscription Price: $48. 7.

Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: Footwear Plus, 8 West 38th St., Ste. 201, New York, NY 10018. 8. Complete Mailing Address of the Headquarters or General Business Office of the Publisher: (Same as #7). 9.

Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Caroline Diaco, 8 West 38th St., Ste. 201, New York, NY 10018; Editor: Greg Dutter, 8 West 38th St., Ste. 201, New York, NY 10018; Managing Editor: Leslie Shiers. 10. Owner (If owned by a corporation, its name and address must be stated and also immediately thereafter the names and addresses of stockholders owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of stock): Zapis Capital Group, LLC; Leon Zapis, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Xenophon Zapis, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Richard Bongorno, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Maria Wymer, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Donna Thomas, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145; Renee Seybert, 26202 Detroit Rd. Ste. 300, Westlake, OH 44145.

11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None. 12. (For Nonprofit Organizations - Does Not Apply) 13. Publication Name: Footwear Plus. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 2010 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation. Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months/Actual No. Copies of Single Issue Published

SELL IT It’s one thing to “like” a product on Facebook, but experts say translating that into a “buy” is a whole different animal. Wilson says the majority of people who like something on Facebook are people who are already familiar and loyal to the product or service. “It becomes an extension of their profile and is more about showing their interests than an intent to buy,” he says. “It’s not entirely rare for a Facebook user to discover a store and ‘like’ it, but it is for them to buy from it immediately.”

According to Lacitignola, the next step is to re-train Facebook users to make purchases straight off of the social network’s site. “Shopping via Facebook is still very new, but eventually consumers will grow accustomed to it,” she predicts. Zappos has already had some success selling group gift cards via on Facebook. (Instead of buying individual Zappos gift cards, friends can contribute funds to send one friend a gift card.)

“The people who have used this service love it,” she notes.

In the meantime, Mendoza says Facebook advertisements (the small windows on the righthand side of the page) can direct viewers to a retailer’s e-commerce site. And unlike Google advertising, which only pulls up specific brand names after a search is entered, Mendoza says Facebook advertising allows companies to target users who “like” or follow similar brands. For example, on Facebook, a new boot company can reach out to users who like Frye or Dr. Martens. “Ads are geared toward the viewer’s interests, which can be money well spent for new and emerging companies who need to get their names out in the open,” he explains. “Retailers shouldn’t underestimate Facebook as a business tool to market to a particular demographic.” •

Nearest to Filing Date: a. Total No. Copies : 17,178/14,513 b. Legitimate paid and/or requested distriubution: (1) Paid/ Requested Outside-County Mail Subscriptions:. 10,427/8,910 (2) Paid/Requested In-County Subscriptions:.0/0 (3) Sales through dealers and carriers, street vendors, and counter sales:.0/0 (4) Requested copies distributed by other USPS mail classes:.0/0 c. Total Paid and/or Requested Circulation:. 10,427/8,910 d. Nonrequested distribution: (1). Outside county nonrequested copies:.3,516/4,823 (2) In County nonrequested copies:. 0/0 (3) Nonrequested copies distributed through other USPS mail classes:0/0 (4). Nonrequested copies distributed outside the mail: 2,905/500 e. Total nonrequested distribution:. 6,421/5,323 f. Total Distribution:16,848/14,233 g. Copies not distributed:330/280 h. Total:17,178/14,513 i: Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation: 62%/63% 16. This Statement of Ownership will be printed in the Oct./Nov. 2010 issue of this publication.

17. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on the form may be subject to criminal sanctions and/or civil sanctions. Caroline Diaco, Publisher

made you look christian’s pet project Christian Siriano

Object Runway Few reality-show contestants have maintained a significant presence in their respective field postvictory, so it’s impressive that season 4 “Project Runway” winner Christian Siriano is not only still exhibiting collections at Fashion Week, but his show is often a crowd favorite.

While viewers might be hoping to spy a “hot tranny mess,” there wasn’t any dreckitude at the designer’s Spring ’11 presentation, where feminine cocktail dresses and luxe prints served up prettiness.

However, it was the Christian Siriano for Payless footwear that strutted off with the show. Clearly, he dedicates as much energy to the shoes as the clothing, and the only possible “tranny” connection, it could be argued, came from the thick platform soles. Strappy or basic, patent or muted, we found the footwear to be the true statement makers— especially the intricate python bootie with a sculpted-wood heel: a true objet d’art if we ever saw one. Keep an eye out for affordable versions at Payless ShoeSource stores; a line inspired by the runway looks will hit retail in February. —Leslie Shiers 40 footwearplusmagazine.com • october/november 2010

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bodyworks is designed to help transfer pressure and force away from your feet towards areas of your body that beneď€ t from stimulation such as your calves, hamstrings and gluteal folds.

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