Footwear Plus | The Source for Retailers | 2012 • August

O U T D O O R P R E V I E W : I N TO T H E L I G H T • B L A K E K R U E G E R TA L KS B I G • M E N G E T T H E I R ST Y L E O N

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RETRO COOL

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ERIN WASSON, NEW YORK CITY

STYLE MADE COMFORTABLE with

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Preview the Men’s and Women’s collections for Spring/Summer 2013

Outdoor Retailer | The Atlanta Shoe Market | FN Platform

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SEE SE SEE E E TH THE B Ø ØR ØRN RN R N FO F O OTW OT O TW T WEAR EA AR A R SP SPR RIIN RIN N G 2013 00113 13 CO C OLLE OL LLE LL LE LEC CT CTI TII ON ONS O NS N AT AT OR O R | FN F N PL PLA PLA L ATFO TF TF FO OR RM M | TASM A SM M AN AND A ND N DA AT T FF F FAN ANY A NY N Y|N NEW NE EW W YO YO RK R K SSHO HO H OW WR WRO R RO OO OM M | 1441 441 4 BR B R OA OA OAD AD DWAY WA AY A Y|N NE NEW EW Y EW YO ORK, RK RK K,, N NY Y

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Affordable.

Convenient.

Productive.

The shoe show ranked America’s best by industry show attendees.

THE ATLANTA SHOE MARKET | AUGUST 17-19, 2012

COBB GALLERIA CENTRE & RENAISSANCE WAVERLY HOTEL FOLLOW US ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER

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FOR SHOW INFORMATION CONTACT 706.923.0580

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MORE TO LOVE FROM DANSKO With two business-building new collections and eye-catching updates to proven sellers, Dansko is ready to repeat as the season’s “Hottest Footwear Brand”.* Add loyal consumers – over half of all Dansko consumers own 4 or more pairs – great margins and a complete range of sales-driving support tools, and you’ll have a lot to love this spring. *Baird Shoe Review – Quarterly: A Survey of Independent Footwear Retailers (5/12) Dansko is a registered trademark of Dansko, LLC. © 2012 Dansko LLC. 1.800.326.7564

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18 Are We Better Off? Leading execs voice their opinions on whether the industry is better off today than it was four years ago.

By Maria Bouselli

22 Q&A:Wolverine Worldwide CEO Blake Krueger reveals why the additions of Sperry, Stride Rite Saucony and Keds offer huge growth potential. By Greg Dutter

46 Where the Boys Are Three designers answer the call of men who are increasingly seeking to express individuality and understated sophistication. By Angela Velasquez

50 Take a Hike

AUGUST 2012

Why the Hike House in Sedona, Arizona, is not just another outdoor shop filled with boots and backpacks.

By Lyndsay McGregor

52 Into the Light

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EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Maria Bouselli Assistant Editor Margaret Maloney Location Coordinator Kathy Passero Editor at Large Judy Leand Contributing Editor

ADMINISTRATION Alexandra Marinacci Operations Manager Laurie Guptill Production Manager

66 Kids’ Trend Shopper

Melanie Prescott Circulation Manager

What’s new next season for tots, tykes and tweens. By Angela Velasquez

Mike Hoff Webmaster

70 Wish You Were Here

Theodore Hoffman Special Projects Director

On the cover: Schutz wedge.

Vintage suit from Southpaw; Linda Varaday Berman vintage hat.

Born

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

58 Outdoor Preview

12 Editor’s Note 14 This Just In 16 Scene & Heard 30 Trend Spotting 57 What’s Selling 82 Shoe Salon 84 Dress 86 Men’s 88 Last Word

Cat

Jennifer Craig Associate Publisher

Tim Jones Senior Designer

Beachy keen: Washed out pastels and classic constructions present a laidback, nostalgic vibe for spring.

By Angela Velasquez

Keds

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

The new outdoors: Heavy earth-toned hiking boots are making way for sporty hybrid designs. By Judy Leand

Racey colors atop lightweight designs breathe fresh air into the category.

By Greg Dutter

PA G E

Caroline Diaco Publisher

Photography by Augustus Butera.

Model: Tatiana at Q Model Mgmt.

OFFICES Advertising/Editorial 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl.

New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 editorialrequests@ 9Threads.com Circulation 21 Highland Circle Needham, MA 02494 Tel: (800) 964-5150 Fax: (781) 453-9389 circulation@9Threads.com Corporate 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis Chairman Lee Zapis President Rich Bongorno Chief Financial Officer

FOOTWEAR PLUS ™ (ISSN#1054-898X) Vol. 23 issue #7 The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by 9Threads, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY, 100037118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: $48.00 in the U.S. Rates oustide the U.S. are available upon request. Single copy price: $10.00. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to FOOTWEAR PLUS, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher not responsible for unsolicited articles or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2012 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Printed in the United States.

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Introducing the Autumn Winter 2012 Cat Women’s Footwear Collection.

Contact your local sales representative or catfootwearwomens@wwwinc.com for more information.

Please visit us at PROJECT, Platform & Outdoor Retailer to view the collection.

www.cat.com www.caterpillar.com © 2012 Wolverine Worldwide. CAT, CATERPILLAR and their respective logos, “Caterpillar Yellow” and “Caterpillar Corporate Yellow,” as well as corporate and product identity used herein, are trademarks of Caterpillar and may not be used without permission.

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editor’s note extra, extra 7

Read All About It IF YOU ARE holding our actual magazine in your hands while reading this page, I want to thank you. I realize that you are busy and the fact that you’re taking time out of your day to read what I have to say—as well as what our staff has worked so hard to say and visualize throughout the pages of our latest show preview—means the world to us.

We work long hours researching, reporting, writing, editing and designing each page of every issue. It’s just one of the reasons we believe the end product—something you can touch, feel and even smell—is as much a part of the overall experience as reading the insightful information and looking at the spectacular photography inside. In a world where many things disappear quickly into the Internet ether, this magazine really exists. You can dog-ear certain pages. Rip out others for mood boards or personal clippings.

(Although we don’t endorse such product desecration.) You can fold the magazine into a briefcase and take it home to read on the porch or by a beach, if that’s your thing. You can keep it on file for future reference.

The point is that since it actually exists we believe our magazine in its physical form offers intangibles that can’t be replicated digitally. These qualities enhance the value of our coverage. I may be biased, but I truly believe there’s something about the written word—on actual paper—that carries more weight than words on a screen. Likewise, there’s something about perusing a beautifully photographed fashion story over the course of several pages that provides artistic pacing and relevance, and that is extremely tough to duplicate in a point-and-click setting. And our unique paper stock makes it more enjoyable. Feel how your fingertips catch on our specially coated matte cover stock—it entices you to stop and dig in to the pages inside.

Before any of you accuse me of being a heartless tree killer or a media dinosaur, I’m not suggesting that everything you read on low-quality paper stock or online is less significant or real. All of our issues are available in a digital version on our web site, where we duplicate the print experience as well as possible. Nonetheless, we hope you appreciate our tactile efforts—just like we appreciate the shoes you make and the store environments you create. It’s

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one of the reasons we don’t strictly ask for stock photography. We want the actual shoes. We are inspired by your innovative designs as well as incredible store settings. We believe, for example, touching and bending a new shoe, is a key part of the process. In fact, Blake Krueger, CEO of Wolverine Worldwide and the subject of this month’s Q&A (p. 22) believes there are two kinds of people in this world: the person who enters into a room with a shoe on a table that touches it and the kind of person that just looks at it. Like Krueger, we are definitely the former type. That’s why we touch and bend as many as we can as well as photograph them in unique settings to bring out additional beauty in the designs. Take, for example, this month’s fashion story, “Wish You Were Here” (p. 70), shot on New York’s Fire Island. Seeing it all brought to life amid the natural beauty of this coastal landscape enhances the retro beach vibe swimming through so many spring collections.

Similarly, our Trend Spotting series (beginning on p. 30) sorts hundreds of styles into an array of digestible, efficient and key trends for the upcoming season. And when photographed uniformly, it adds a cohesive weight to what buyers should be on the lookout for next season. What you see in this section is the result of our editors traveling around the world (Italy, Germany, Brazil, to name a few stops) to attend trade shows as well as visiting countless showrooms and accommodating dozens of desk-side appointments. All the while, they stay on the lookout for what’s new and noteworthy with a sharp eye for what’s truly trending and not just hype.

The same goes for our Outdoor Preview (p. 58). More than 35 brands are showcased in what has become a meaningful segment far beyond the outdoor specialty store arena. The accompanying feature, “Into the Light” (p. 52) is by contributing editor Judy Leand, a veteran outdoor industry reporter whose knowledge of the entire market makes this a must-read. Let’s just say the outdoors is not just for granola-loving backpackers anymore.

You’ll find plenty more invaluable coverage in this issue. I hope you enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed making it. As you read this, we are well into creating our next issue, pouring in unrivaled experience and—equally important—passion.

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

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THIS JUST IN

Hipster Nation Urban dwellers weathering the “Baked Apple” dress down their looks for an edgy, cool vibe.

By McCandliss and Campbell 14 footwearplusmagazine.com august 2012

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¡+¢ scene and heard Nike Runs Big in Downtown Manhattan NIKE OPENED A 9,000-square-foot store in the Flatiron district of Manhattan in July that focuses solely on the runner and his or her needs. The store, which pays homage to Nike’s roots as a running company, is the largest of its 12 category-specialty retail spaces throughout the U.S. Megan Saalfeld, Nike spokeswoman, says specialty stores, like the one on the corner of 5th Avenue and West 20th Street, are meant to “elevate the consumer experience,” while positioning Nike in one of the world’s premium shopping locations. She also describes this area as a “hub” for runners.

The store offers a wide selection of women’s and men’s running apparel and shoes. “In addition to running specific pieces, the training and sportswear categories are also represented to allow runners a broad selection of product from the track to the street and everywhere in between,” Saalfeld says. “The store will also offer runners services, including the Nike Plus Run Club, marathon training programs, gait analysis and footwear trails. Runners can also map their routes using Nike Plus and check their bags prior to runs.”

The retail space boasts a wall filled with high-definition screens displaying footage of inspiring athletes, a wood floor made from a local college’s bleachers and a stairwell with a custom image created by Nike Free designer Mark Miner. Nike plans on opening 250 to 300 Nike-branded stores by 2016, some of which will be category-specific. —Maria Bouselli

Brick and Mortar Still in the Running footwear. With these encouraging findings, including the fact that 48 percent of responders name store running specialists as an influencer in their purchasing decision, Field believes the future of brick-and-mortar stores is bright, and McCusker agrees. “[Running specialty stores] have been able to create a positive in-store experience that consumers deem valuable and want to replicate,” he says. “Many consumers are coming into a running specialty store because they are about to begin a journey, whether that journey is a marathon, their first 5K, or an easy 3-mile run, that store associate becomes an important first step in that journey.” —M.B.

Photograph by Martineric

RUNNERS PREFER PURCHASING their shoes in a specialty store over online stores and sporting good retailers, according to a study published in the Karhu Runners Industry Report. Brookmark Research Services in partnership with Karhu, a running shoe company, surveyed 725 runners to determine the factors that shape their buying decisions in purchasing running shoes.

While 32 percent said they typically buy their shoes online, and 11 percent cited major sporting goods stores as their shopping destination of choice, 49 percent of the runners surveyed stated they prefer to purchase their footwear at a running specialty store. “Historically, running specialty has been at the forefront of trend and innovation when it comes to running technology,” says Damian McCusker, Asics America running specialty sales manager. “As such, they have been able to evolve beyond just the running shoe to become a complete running resource for their communities.”

Fit continues to drive purchases with over half of the respondents ranking it as the No. 1 factor. Fit specialist at Super Runners Shop in Huntington, NY, Keith Field, says this is no surprise. “Typically what we get is people that already have a problem, either something hurts or they have blisters,” he says. “And most of the time we can solve it because it’s usually not something wrong with them— it’s poor fit.”

Beyond fit, runners that took the survey said support and cushioning are also things they look for in their

Nicki Minaj Strikes an ‘Originals’ Pose SHE CAN’T BE missed. This month, Nicki Minaj added to her ever-growing list of endorsements by starring in the “Adidas Is All In” campaign for the brand’s fashionforward spin off.

In the spot, the Trinidad-born, New York-raised rapper channels her inner Rainbow Brite as she struts the streets of Brooklyn in a Jeremy Scott-designed puffer coat and sneakers as her track “Masquerade” plays in the background.

Written and recorded specifically for the campaign, the lyric “shell tops is on” is a nod to the label’s iconic sneaker, while “run like you really wanna be at the top” is perfectly in tune with the label’s “Impossible is nothing” message.

—Lyndsay McGregor

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SPECIAL REPORT

2008 2012 Are We Better Off? As the election approaches, industry leaders debate how we’re faring today compared with four year ago. By Maria Bouselli IT’S A QUESTION that hearkens back to the debates of the 1980 election between then president Jimmy Carter and Republican candidate Ronald Reagan. “Are you better off than you were four years ago?” the former California governor asked the American public. The answer back then was a resounding no and The Gipper went on to become the 40th president of the United States. The question has since become a standard bearer in presidential politics as well as a viable reference tool for anyone taking stock of their situation. As we gear up for the November presidential election, Americans are once again wondering this same thing, and with an 8.2 percent unemployment rate in July, many remain unsure. In a national poll conducted by Bloomberg News in June, 45 percent stated that they are better off today than they were in the beginning of 2009, with 36 percent saying the opposite.

Despite this having been one of the worst recessions in 100 years, the footwear industry has fared pretty well with many arguing it is well ahead of the current sluggish recovery. An informal poll of industry colleagues as to whether we are better off than four years ago, however, is largely mixed.

“I don’t know that we’re better off,” says Gary Weiner, president of Saxon Shoes in Richmond, VA. “I think we’re [just] more used to dealing with things in retail and wholesale, and with consumers.” This is a sentiment echoed by other retailers, brands and industry experts alike. “I wouldn’t say the industry is better off but what I would say is the industry in general is a lot smarter collectively,” notes President of ENK Footwear Group David Kahan. “And both wholesalers and retailers are better prepared and able to anticipate issues that may arise and be proactive to handle [them].”

Four years ago when the financial crisis was beginning, businesses had to make a choice—to change with the times or to keep moving as they were.

“The better get better [in these times], and the weaker go away—that’s the way the market works,” says Bill Combs, owner of Burch’s Shoes in Eugene, OR, and CEO of Bogs Footwear. Those retailers and brands that wanted to succeed had to re-evaluate their strategies and decide what was

a priority, and what branches of their businesses had to be cut back. “First off, inventory management on both the wholesale as well as the retail side became paramount to profitability,” says Kahan. “Everyone realized if the top line is going to be challenged, we need to focus on ways to drive the bottom line.” Mary Brown, director of marketing at Eastland, echoed his statement. “We definitely had to become more flexible, especially in working with the shift of inventory with retailers—no one wanted to be caught with inventory they couldn’t sell,” she notes. David Sharp, president of Rocky Brands, observed that his company brought its inventory down from $75 million to $50 million in the last four years. “In 2008 and 2009 we hunkered down,” he says “We were actually playing defense, doing the fundamental things to run the business—preserving cash, reducing debt— those kind of things—and it paid off for us.”

For some brands, the difficult economy actually did pay off in a big way. As Rocky Brands was already on the defensive course, it killed the unprofitable parts of its business and, as a result, reduced its debt from approximately $60 million in 2008 to $20 million this year, with improved earnings the past three years. Bearpaw also saw an opportunity to increase brand awareness. “Four years ago was really a deciding moment,” says Randy McKinley, director of marketing at Bearpaw. He notes that the company made a key decision to widely market its collections and expand the product offerings to become a “true brand,” which opened up additional distribution. McKinley credits this improvement, and the 100 percent gains in the last three years, on the quality of product that Bearpaw customers receive for a price of under $100.

Many independent retailers, however, struggled through the recession.

Gary Hauss, owner of the J. Stephens chain based in West Hills, CA, credits helpful business associates, even some of his landlords, in helping him weather the tough economic downturn. “In 29 years in the footwear business there have only been two years that we didn’t make money—2008 and 2009,” says Hauss. “We’ve always had great partnerships with our vendors, and >69

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SWEET SIXTEEN Blake Krueger, CEO of Wolverine Worldwide, discusses why the acquisition of Sperry, Saucony, Stride Rite and Keds positions the company’s entire portfolio for tremendous growth in the decades ahead. By Greg Dutter

HE WAY CEO Blake Krueger describes it, Wolverine Worldwide has been acquiring brands over the past 20 years, so its latest acquisition of Collective Brands’ Sperry, Saucony, Stride Rite and Keds is nothing out of the ordinary. The decision by management back in the early ’90s was to evolve into a footwear conglomerate

beyond its tight core of Wolverine (the brand born in 1883 and listed on its stock note), Hush Puppies (1958) and Bates (1969). Slowly but surely they began to do just that through a combination of license deals and acquisitions. There was Caterpillar, Merrell, Sebago, Patagonia and HarleyDavidson, to name a few. And in most, if not all, cases, they were start-ups or small brands with unknown potential. (No one in their right mind suspected Merrell would zoom from around $20 million to around $500 million in the span of 10 years.)

But then comes this latest multi-brand acquisition—one that appears to be on steroids in comparison to any of the previous ones. This is a proverbial grand slam that puts Wolverine Worldwide in a league of its own. “This is clearly transformative,” Krueger says of the still-pending acquisition. “Our combined companies will market and sell about 100 million pairs of footwear around the world annually.”

That’s big. So big, in fact, that it would make Wolverine Worldwide the largest non-athletic footwear company in the world, noting the asterisks for Saucony and Merrell, which both make athletic styles.

Sperry alone is a $335 million business and on a significant growth curve. Stride Rite is in the same ballpark sales-wise, which includes its coveted retail arm that opens a host of opportunities for the entire Wolverine portfolio.

Saucony is a $280 million business and one that kicks open the door to the lucrative athletic arena with a pure running brand. And last, but surely not least, is Keds, an $80 million business everyone knows and many believe has enormous untapped potential in the casual, vulcanized sneaker world. For those keeping score, that amounts to more than $1 billion in sales. No small potatoes by any means. But, according to Krueger, digestible for Wolverine: “It’s a portfolio of brands of the size and heritage that we understand and love. The four brands alone have 380 years of brand equity,” he notes.

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O&A With astounding numbers like these, the question is: What is there not to like? “It was a perfect dovetail fit of brands,” Krueger says. “We are comfortable operating a portfolio of brands and these four filled in five targeted growth areas for us: women’s, athletic, children’s and casual. And of course, there’s the retail operations.” Strategically it makes sense, and Krueger says the collective management teams are a solid cultural fit with Wolverine as well. “I think the people at PLG (Collective Brands’ Performance and Lifestyle Group) were thrilled to have Wolverine come out the winner,” he offers.

“We’re pretty much a what-you-see-is-what-you-get Midwestern company. We understand better-grade brands and we understand international partnerships as our brands are sold in more than 190 countries around the world.” Krueger adds that it’s been a “perfect fit” sentiment held by many of the company’s key retailers, international partners and factory groups as well as within its existing employee base.

Then there are the incredible growth What are you reading? potential reasons to make the deal, particuGame of Thrones and relarly coming from abroad. “When we looked reading Guns, Germs and at the strength of these four brands and Steal, which looks back businesses, they’re substantially sold (more at the last 20,000 years than 90 percent, in fact) in the United and why certain cultures States,” Krueger offers. “And today we sell developed and why some about 65 percent of our overall pairs overdid not. seas, so there’s a tremendous opportunity through our long established international What word best describes distributor network and partners to really you? Competitive. capitalize on these brands internationally.”

Specifically, Krueger notes that Sperry is What is inspiring you currently the number one casual brand in most right now? The the U.S., yet less than 4 percent of its sales political leaders around are from overseas. the world that are actually Not surprisingly, there were several suittrying to address the hard ors vying for these brands. While Krueger issues that most people likes to believe Wolverine won out based are afraid to talk about on the perfect and desired fit status, he is a but exist. It’s a time for realist who understands that the company courage. that bids the most usually wins. It’s also why the deal, when completed in the coming What person in history do months, will have taken more than a year you most identify with? to close because of intense competition. “It Teddy Roosevelt. He was was simply a long process, where a lot of a leader, a conservationist, companies as well as private equity money a hunter and an outdoor was interested and we just operated with enthusiast at a pretty influpatience and persistence,” Krueger says. ential time in our history.

“Eventually, we came out the winner for these brands.”

If you could hire anybody It doesn’t hurt that the timing for such who would it be? Ralph an acquisition is ideal. “Honestly, any time would have been good given the perfect dovetail fit between the two companies, but now was a very good time,” he says. “Financing is cheap today. We are at an all-time low in that regard and that also made the deal attractive.”

Next up the real work begins—incorporating the brands into the fold and giving them the support to let them flourish. Krueger is confident that is exactly what will happen. “Every one of our acquisitions has become a success,” he says. “We’ve kept them distinct, we’ve given them a centralized support network and we’ve let them concentrate individually on sales,

marketing and product development.” Krueger cites Merrell as an example: “Most people don’t realize that the same management team that gave us the opportunity to buy the brand when it was $23 million was the same one that quickly grew to $300 million under us.”

Krueger, ever the strategist, notes the acquisition allows Wolverine to cover its bases. What will soon be 16 brands sold in nearly 200 countries covers a ton of ground. It’d be a dominant position if it happened to be a game of Risk. “The advantage is we are not subject to any single consumer trend or country, region or consumer group risk,” he says. “Our business model inherently takes risk out of the equation. Having that kind of a global spread across a range of brands lets us perform very well in weak, so-so and great times.”

And Krueger is confident great times lie ahead for Wolverine. “We will quickly be $2.5 to $3 billion in sales with 16 powerhouse brands that have the ability to Lauren. I have always acquire global talent,” he says. “If you just admired how he has manlook at our supply chain leverage—sourcing aged his family of brands.

100 million pairs a year—even the most He’s certainly somebody in pessimistic person has got to be pretty the consumer soft-goods optimistic about Wolverine Worldwide.” arena to look up to.

Krueger adds, “The opportunities across the portfolio are pretty spectacular. It’s Who would be your going to be a wonderful 10- or 20-year run most coveted dinner for our company, for sure. It’s a great time guest? Abraham Lincoln. for our people, our company and our interHe, more than any other national partners.” person, kept this country together.

What are some of the attributes of Sperry, beyond the international growth potenWhat might people be tial, that you are excited about? surprised to know about First of all, they have a superb manageyou? At heart, I’m a punk ment team that is focused on fresh prodrocker. It goes back to Mott uct, innovation and expansion of the brand The Hoople, The Ramones, into new footwear categories beyond boat The Clash, Rancid, Green shoes. Most people don’t appreciate that Day and on. the majority of their pairs today you would not consider to be boat shoes or boat shoe What is your motto? derivative. They are also expanding the Carpe diem. brand beyond footwear. The consumer is inviting Sperry to participate, whether it’s What is your favorite socks, eyewear, apparel or bags, to become a hometown memory? I true lifestyle brand. was born in Waseca, MN, population 3,000 at the Sperry has that strong American vibe time, and it is of spending along the lines of Ralph Lauren. time at my grandmother’s Yes, it’s a strong, authentic brand. Over the house on Loon Lake. years, it’s built pretty fierce consumer loyalty and it’s got a market position that is young.

They also have a wide variety of price ranges as well as different product categories so the table of Sperry shoes that you see outside a Journeys store is different to the table you see in a Nordstrom or a Macy’s. The brand has stretch.

OFF THE CUFF

How does Sperry not cannibalize sales, say from Sebago, particularly with respect to boat shoes?

If you had to pick two brands that leap into consumers’ minds as a dominant in boat shoes it would be Sperry and Sebago. But we need to recognize that

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a lot of brands sell boat shoes—virtually every brand does today. Beyond that the brands are different: Sebago, the heritage going back to 1946, is a more premium, classic brand. Certainly, in international markets where Sebago is much stronger and bigger than in the U.S., it’s a more premium brand than Sperry. Sebago would skew substantially more men’s than women’s, and Sperry is more women’s than men’s. Today, Sperry has a wider variety of price points and is targeted at a younger consumer. But a number of people have asked me, “Why would you keep both brands?”

It’s probably for the same reason that we keep more than one work boot brand to service the market here in the U.S. We like having more than one arrow in our quiver to address a particular consumer segment or product category. Sperry and Sebago certainly gives us a one-two punch as much as Cat, Bates, Wolverine and Harley-Davidson give us that one, two, three, four punch in work boots.

What about Keds? There’s a brand with Converse-like name recognition, but certainly not the sales of it.

I love the Keds brand. I think when you look at the growing presence of vulcanized footwear around the world—with Converse on one side of the continuum with rock ‘n’ roll and on the other side is Vans in skate and surf, there’s this big space in the middle where I think Keds could be a very big business. And Keds used to be a large business. Today, it’s probably a much larger brand than it is a business, but still a wonderful opportunity. It has a top 10 brand consumer awareness among women.

What is also interesting is that during our recent sales conference in May I expected a strong degree of interest in Sperry and Saucony from our international partners but what surprised me was the interest in Keds.

They all remember it when it was a substantially larger business and category-defining brand. There is also a new management team in place that is very talented and has a great strategy for growing the business back to its full potential.

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Why do you think Keds hasn’t clicked, despite the popularity of vulcanized footwear?

Like everything in life, it comes down to people. You need the right team in place with the right strategy and, over a long period of time, you have to let them do their thing. I think over the last 20 years Keds has been a bit of a revolving door when it comes to leadership and strategy. Each new leader had a different strategic approach or market position for the brand. That has hurt. But now they have brought in Rick Blackshaw, who has a lot of experience in the footwear industry, including a considerable stint at Converse.

What does Saucony bring to the Wolverine fold?

As a company, we needed a true athletic brand. I say that knowing we have categories in the athletic arena with Merrell, be it barefoot or trail running, but we needed a real athletic brand. We love Saucony in particular because it’s in the running category and ranked number three in independent running specialty shops in the U.S. Every town has a handful of these shops—they are wonderful, full-service and devoted to their sport. There is also a tremendous opportunity for the Saucony brand internationally as well as to expand their minimalist and lightweight running categories.

Do you see Saucony expanding into other athletic categories?

Well, we don’t have plans to introduce a basketball shoe next season (laughs). But I believe there is stretch within the brand, but there is so much upside just in the running and immediately adjacent categories that there’s plenty of room for growth in those for the time being.

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What is it about running that has made the sport and the look so popular of late?

One: Coming out of the recession, running has been the biggest growth category in athletics. Why? Because a person can spend only $100 on a

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new pair of running shoes and enjoy the sport. And you can enjoy it for 10 minutes or you can go run for an hour or more. It’s a true athletic category that has had a great run in the past three years and it continues into this year. Two: A macro trend in consumer soft goods that has been growing for the last year or so and is hitting full stride now is color. And if there’s a footwear category that particularly lends itself to color, it’s the athletic category, especially running and minimalist running shoes. That has come on at the same time as the surge in people running.

Could the minimalism category be the next shaping and toning bubble?

I certainly don’t believe minimalist, barefoot running is a flash in the pan. Every specialty running shop in America today has their minimalist running wall where it might be 0-mm drop or a 4- or 8-mm drops. But the focus overall is on lightweight and I do not see that going away—I see that as a permanent subset category of running. In fact, it’s been the fastest growing segment of running for the last two years.

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What differentiates it from shaping and toning?

Shaping and toning is totally different. The minimalist trend is based on how people ran and walked for tens of thousands of years. If you go back to the book, Born to Run, which was written by an avid runner, he asked why he was always hurt and solved his problem by studying the biomechanics of natural motion. It was a well thought out book that opened a lot of people’s eyes. Of course, it may not be for everybody. Personally, I like to run in a 4-mm drop in our Merrell Mixmaster category instead of pure barefoot. Of course, with their color pops and unique silhouttes, these shoes are being worn by a pretty large segment of the population just for fashion because consumers love the look and the feel.

What is there to like about Stride Rite?

It’s a children’s brand and, while we have had pockets of success in our existing brands in that segment, Stride Rite is in a dominant position in the U.S. market in better-grade toddler and kids’ shoes. And about half of their pairs are sold through their 300-plus retail stores largely based in the U.S. It’s also got a great heritage yet is another brand that only has 4 percent of its sales outside the U.S. It has a tremendous global opportunity. Also, their existing product development infrastructure makes the Sperry and Saucony children’s product, which presents a great marriage of talent for our other brands. It gives us critical mass in children’s product knowledge and talent that we can take through various collections around the world. Finally, it takes our overall retail sales from 7 to 14 percent in one swoop, which is another key strategic focus of ours.

Will you continue to sell other brands through those doors?

Absolutely. We can also envision a new multi-brand children’s concept with eight to 10 combined brands that would be extremely powerful.

And, in the same vein, you can envision a multi-brand retail concept on the adult level.

Is there one brand amid the entire portfolio with the greatest potential?

My official line is: I like all my children. Smaller brands like Chaco and Cushe, for example, are wonderful but just getting started around the world. Even Merrell is still early in its growth cycle on a global scale. Of the new brands, I like all four. But the momentum of Sperry today and the fact that only 4 percent of its sales are outside the U.S. presents a wonderful opportunity.

Hovering over all of this is a shaky global economy. Are you optimistic that it is on the mend or are we just walking along the edge of a cliff?

From a macro economic environment, it’s really kind of a crossroads time for the world. We are seeing this firsthand with Europe today, and it has the potential to have an impact on the U.S. and practically every other country in the world. Frankly, the world for maybe the past 40 or 50 years has over spent and over-promised. That pertains to countries, cities,

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companies and individuals. And now we are in the process of deleveraging.

And any time you try and deleverage, it brings uncertainty and unrest. You see that in countries that are struggling with their fiscal viability. While I personally tend to be optimistic because of the industry we are in and just my own personality, you also have to be realistic. Today we need strong leadership willing to talk about the hard issues that we all know are out there.

We are not seeing enough of it, in my opinion.

As an industry, are we better off than four years ago?

I think we are better off. During an industry event in 2009 I made a comment that you should never waste a good recession. By that I meant we had a recession, and it was a whopper, but you need to use that opportunity to be reflective, make some hard decisions, look at how you conduct business and do it more efficiently and better. I think the good companies didn’t waste the recession.

Are consumers better off than they were four years ago?

Taking a global view of the big markets, I think retailers are worried about macro economic conditions in Europe and other regions. They are taking a bit of a conservative view. Specific to the U.S., I think the consumer is feeling pretty good. It’s been a very good year for footwear and so was 2011. Europe, on the other hand, is pretty tepid consumer environment. They are looking at their own headlines every day.

Do you think Europe can get its financial house in order?

Fundamentally, the world is coming around to what it can afford. Can we afford people retiring at 55 on full salary and benefits like in Greece? The fact is that while those people might have been promised that, the country simply cannot afford it. Can the U.S. go on forever spending 18 percent-plus of our total economy on healthcare when the next closest industrial nation,

with better healthcare coverage statistically, spends 10 to 11 percent? It doesn’t matter if you are a Democrat or a Republican, everyone knows that the answer is no. We will hit the wall. Some people say we have hit it already or are very close, and that’s why you need people with courage to at least talk about the longer-term issues and potential solutions.

Are our political leaders really doing that or are they kicking it down the road?

My frustration is that, collectively, they are kicking it down the road. There are a few brave people out there that are talking, be it (U.S. Representative) Paul Ryan of Wisconsin where, whether you agree with him or not, at least he’s talking about the issues. That’s what it’s going to take because we cannot kick the can down the road forever. As a businessperson, and my motto of carpe diem, I would rather address the issues, propose some solutions and, hard as though they may be to take, get on with the execution of those solutions. We all know that these problems exist, whether it’s Medicaid, Medicare or Social Security. We have a tax code today, for example, that no human being that I know of can begin to comprehend. Unfortunately, what we need are solutions across a spectrum of big issues. But, hey, we’ve got a pretty great country and I would never bet against it and I think eventually we will find a core of leadership to propose what needs to be done. Again, it doesn’t matter if you are a Democrat or a Republican, what the majority of the American people want is to see is a responsible, assertive, strategic approach to solving our long-term issues.

Does either of the candidates running for president this November possess such capabilities?

I believe one of them does. Without naming names, we need a more pragmatic business approach to solving our long-term problems. If you go back 10 to 40 years ago, we used to get that in our government by working across

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the aisle. Unfortunately, that’s become more difficult, but that’s what it takes. While both candidates are smart and well-intentioned, I believe we’re at a crossroads, not just for our country, but also for the world. Is bigger government and higher taxes the right way to go?

Do you believe government can solve all of your problems or not? The world needs growth and prosperity, but it has to be a balanced approach.

You have to try and balance your checkbook over a period of time as a country, just like families and companies have to do. We have to be better at balancing the checkbook, and we also have to be better at generating growth. It’s going to take a balanced approach for the world to get out of this mess. But if the world can get its financial house in order, I think you are going to see several decades of tremendous growth.

But solving all of that is certainly above my pay grade (laughs).

More to your pay grade, you’ve seemed to have positioned Wolverine Worldwide well.

Coming out of the recession there were some macro trends that had benefited our brands in particular. The global consumer became interested in authentic brands—ones that had withstood the test of time. Consumers were also interested in value, but that doesn’t necessarily mean cheaper. It’s why we have seen premium-priced, made-in-the-U.S.A. product like our Wolverine 1000 Mile collection perform well in the U.S. and around the world.

I would also say coming out of the recession, there has been a strong global trend toward Americana styling—preppy, for example, is a strong, global macro trend that continues.

There has also been a very strong trend in boots around the world. I’m not talking about one item or strictly about fashion or weather boots. Rather, the general boot silhouette continues to be very strong.

If a certain boot brand cools off, what impact might that have on the overall market?

I don’t like to comment on individual brands, but the industry has gone through times before where there’s a hot, high-priced item at retail for a period of time that levels off or goes away. It can put some pressure on retailers to substitute it by selling two or three pairs to get the same level of sales of that one item. But we’ve lived through this before as an industry and we will live through it again many times over.

Like warm winters.

Yes. I try to never let our brand presidents use weather as an excuse but, of course, I use it all the time when talking to investors. But let’s not kid ourselves: Weather can be a very important factor in our industry. Some years you have a good season and some years you don’t. It all balances out over time.

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There’s been a lot of talk about China’s sourcing woes. What’s your take on that issue?

Everyone asks me, “What’s the new China?”

And I answer, “China is the new China.” While a lot of companies have been looking to diversify from that country, two years ago 87 percent of all footwear consumed in America came from China and, despite those diversification efforts, in the most recent 12-month period it was still 85 percent. There are some countries on the rise (Indonesia, India, Bangladesh and Vietnam), but I believe China is going to be the primary country from a sourcing standpoint for a substantial period of time in the future. Nonetheless, we have been diversifying our sourcing mix and today less than 70 percent of our pairs are made in China.

What can’t be overlooked is the humongous growth market in terms of selling shoes in China.

Absolutely. For example, Hush Puppies, Caterpillar and Merrell have been performing very well in this market. It’s a tremendous consumer market. China has a middle class that can afford western brands that is substantially bigger than the entire population of the U.S. What’s the main goal for the rest of the year?

Our main goal this year is to integrate the PLG brands into the company and get started on our international expansion together. Also, as a company, to stay flexible. One of my main focuses over the last 5 years has been on people. We’ve invested a lot of money developing the talent that we have as well as in attracting new talent. The PLG acquisition gives us an East Coast base. Now we have the ability to attract people to our Lexington, MA, headquarters as well as those in London and Montreal.

What do you love most about your job?

I certainly enjoy coming to work every day. First and foremost, it’s our people. We almost never lose a mid-level or senior-level executive. We’ve got a great team that works together. And it’s really a transformative time for our company.

We’ve got the ability to develop and put people in different assignments across a 16-brand portfolio. They can develop their careers within a single company. What I also like about our company is the accessibility and ability to interact with 190 countries around the world. The different cultures, languages, people, consumer tastes… The sheer variety of things that cross my desk every day keeps it very interesting and very fun. And when I make a trip and interact with our customers around the world—when I walk the malls in Chile, for example—I always come away learning several things that will help me in our business that I wouldn’t have gotten by sitting in my office, staring at a computer. •

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TREND SPOTTING

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WHERE THE BOYS ARE Men who are raising their fashion game now span outward from the style capitals of New York and Los Angeles into the sprawl of suburbia, remote towns and beyond.

By Angela Velasquez

a

CCORDING TO A recent report by consulting firm Bain & Company, the luxury menswear market is growing at almost 14 percent per year, outpacing growth in womenswear by almost double. That’s right, double.

And we’re not just talking about small leather goods and watches. Niche brands such as John Varvatos, Billy Reid and Tom Ford, along with aesthetically-pleasing yet ultra-masculine shopping environments, like the recently opened Ugg for Men store in New York and Nordstrom’s decision to soon introduce Topman into a select number of its stores nationwide, reflect that guys are hot—as in a hot consumer base worthy of attention and focus. Perhaps a growing web of fashion blogs and related ecommerce sites have helped pave the way for men to test the fashion waters quickly, quietly and with much welcomed guidance. For those men who still don’t like to shop in the traditional sense—or at least won’t confess to liking it—they can now do so in the privacy and 24-7 immediacy of their own homes.

They no longer have to look or feel lost shopping and can avoid being given the passé label of metrosexual. In fact, the times are a-changing in that regard.

“Men have more information available to them than ever before, and social norms have changed so much that they no longer have to feel that personal style attacks their masculinity,” explains Corey Haberman, Hush Puppies vice president of global design and development.

In addition to Hush Puppies, designers for Allen Edmonds and Ted Baker discuss how they

are tapping into this increasingly daring and widespread men’s market through the appeal of old-fashion Hollywood glamour, modern social networks and alluring Spring ’13 designs in eyecandy colors and luxurious materials.

HUSH PUPPIES: BREEDING GROUND Although a majority of men still identify little with the fashion marketplace, Haberman says the trends that come out of it eventually resonate at all levels of the market. “I would bet that most men have had a much higher level of exposure to what is ‘cool’ than ever before—mostly through their access to online news magazines and blogs where they might be inadvertently exposed to something that they never would have before watching network TV and reading the daily newspaper,” he explains.

For Hush Puppies, which Haberman says is eager to deepen its footprint in the U.S. men’s market, it’s a perfect time to launch Five, a combination of classic signature styles with Vibram outsole comfort and performance.

Having lived through the pre-recession craze for expensive designer labels and status and then the recession-era fad for Americana heritage, work wear-inspired fashion, Haberman predicts a movement towards heritage hybrid styles: “Plaid has given way to color. Innovation and comfort have become a very important story in footwear even at the highest price points.”

Having been inspired by the diverse hybridization of New York’s Lower East Side where a couture barber shop is next to a high-end

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From left: Paul Newman, a fashion risk taker; Hush Puppies’ take on the modern boot.

sneaker boutique, followed by a deli, the designer expects going forward to see dress athletic hybrids becoming more important both in footwear as well as in the broader apparel market. Haberman coined it “smart” clothing and accessories. “People are looking for more versatility, innovation and value in their clothing and accessories,” he explains. “It’s not just a particular style or silhouette.”

Who is your target man? He lives in a metropolitan area and makes a very good income, but is not defined by labels of any kind. He is a first adopter, always looking for what is new and what is innovative. His interests are varied—from catching the latest underground band in New York’s Lower East Side to antiquing at Brimfield. He has an appreciation for everything not ordinary. He has a very personal sense of style that is not defined by anyone or anything else he sees. He is very much about individuality, but is intrigued by cutting-edge style. He is not about established designers; he prefers innovative ideas and products. He is masculine, deliberately a bit rough around the edges, and he is always meticulous in everything he purchases and everything he wears. He is a boutique shopper who knows his sales associates by name and they know him.

Who are his style role models and inspirations? His role models are fashion risk takers that he appreciates for their personal

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style rather than their specific taste. Many are from a bygone time: Steve McQueen, Chet Baker, Jack Nicholson, young Marlon Brando, Ernest Hemingway, Frank Sinatra and Paul Newman. Some from today include Tom Waits, Adrien Brody, Michael Stipe, David Bowie, John Varvatos, George Clooney and Jay-Z. What are some items that he needs more of?

Button-down shirts, casual neckwear, a great pair of Hush Puppies Classic Bucks, an “I’m with stupid” T-shirt, selvedge denim and a great causal sport coat.

What should be left behind? Double-cuff shirts worn casual, baggy jeans, golf shirts, sneakers (unless they are for working out), tattoo-inspired graphic T-shirts, logos on anything and “artist” scarves.

What’s new for spring from Hush Puppies?

Color is the most important trend in the market and for our brand. We have introduced an array of brightly-colored outsoles to complement our similarly colored uppers. Beyond color, we have spent a lot of time focusing on classic footwear that is modern and fashionable with a comfortable twist. We are introducing several new collections that take the classic drivers and mocs and re-interpret them through a modern lens by focusing on rich tumble nubucks, bright colors, soft, deconstructed uppers, and innovative, comfortable outsoles.

Striped canvas will add interest with washed

colors. Espadrilles, which were introduced in Spring ’10, have been extended with a sporty interpretation.

ALLEN EDMONDS: FOR THE AGES If you came of age during the ’80s and ’90s, Paul Grangaard, president and CEO of Allen Edmonds, says it’s likely you’ve never known anything except European footwear. “The Italians had a great 30-year run, but now even in Italy you are seeing rounded toes and wingtips from the U.S.,” he says of the increasing popularity of American styling.

Furthermore, fashion isn’t just looking to New York for style cues. “There’s a ton of interest in the American west, from Utah to the relaxed vibe of the West Coast,” Grangaard adds.

The Wisconsin-based company, which has been making shoes for 90 years, has doubled its product offering in the last two years in order to appeal to a broader range of men because, across all product categories, men are going for more individualized looks. “The industry has found a way to give more options to khakis and blue blazers,” he says, adding that thanks to the “no tie” style rule that reigns today, men have been hungry to find new ways to show personality in a dark suit world.

Plus, in case you didn’t you hear, Grangaard says 60 is the new 40. “Men are starting to care about how they look much longer,” he says.

“Many are in the best shape of their lives and they don’t want to dress as though they are close to the end.”

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Who is the Allen Edmonds man? Our target market is more psychographic, than demographic.

He’s dressing for aspirational success or is already successful. He appreciates great classic styling. Our customers’ interests are broad, but they tend to be All-American, sports-playing guys who work in medicine, business, law or as a government professional. He’s more interested in fashion for weekend wear. He has a classic look and wants to be well-put together without looking like he’s trying too hard or to hear it from his friends.

From top: Dress boots lead Allen Edmonds’ spring line; Joe DiMaggio coined classic American styling.

-

Who are his style role models? It differs from person to person, but I think some of the more complex actors are inspiring. Take George Clooney, for example: He’s stylish, an accomplished actor and also does a lot from a social point-of-view. They also look to the guys on the PGA tour. Their most important role models may be mentors in their lives, either at work or at home. We get so many letters from men telling us how they became a lifetime customer because their father

or first boss who took them under his wing introduced them to our brand.

How are men evolving? In the ’90s, men were comfortable justifying wearing running shoes to work because they were going to meetings in a hurry.

Attitudes changed when the financial crisis struck. Men started to dress better because they were appreciating their job more, or because they were out of work and the weekend might be a time for networking.

What’s new for spring from Allen Edmonds? Dress boots are a major trend. You haven’t seen that since the ’30s. You’ll see a lot more use of color in the shoes. That trend came on very strong this year and there will be even more of it. We have some new styles of driving mocs that are great to wear on the weekends or in business casual settings. We combined some styles for new slip-on brogues for guys who travel often and go through security lines. And we have a new longer last with a squarer toe that is not typical of us. >68

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The Hike House’s “Footwear Rock Wall.”

TAKE A HIKE The Hike House offers everything a trail outfitter should— and more.

By Lyndsay McGregor

Y

OU KNOW THAT scene in National Lampoon’s Vacation where the Griswolds spend all of 30 seconds looking at the Grand Canyon? It’s more common than you’d think. “A lot of people don’t know what they don’t know and they go up there without a big plan,” says Greg Stevenson, owner of The Hike House in Sedona, AZ, who says that the average time spent viewing this natural wonder of the world is 17 minutes. And it’s not just the Grand Canyon. Before setting up shop there, Greg and his wife, Gracie, regularly found themselves in Sedona on hiking trips and locals would always point them to the same 10 trails. (There’s actually close to 200 paths through the red rock wonderland.) “What a travesty to be in America’s day hike capital and miss the best parts,” he mourns.

So, in September 2010, after quitting his job at consulting firm Willis North America and selling the family home in Texas, Stevenson moved to Sedona and opened The Hike House. Less than a three-hour drive from Phoenix, this outdoor specialty store offers guided hikes, hiking gear and clothes and an energy café where guests can make their own trail mix, enjoy a healthy pre-hike breakfast or snack on recovery bars while recounting trail tales. “Once you experience [us] you come to know that we’re not really about product—we’re about the experience,” Stevenson offers. “We

feel if we can give each guest the perfect experience they’ll come back more often and stay longer.” And it’s working: Sales were up 10 percent through May. Not bad for a couple with absolutely no prior retail experience.

THE GOODS Every inch of the shop is packed with outdoor gear, from trekking poles to compasses and water bottles to watches.

Columbia and Mountain Hardwear fleeces hang floor to ceiling and Kakadu backpacks are scattered throughout. Meanwhile, hiking boots, trail running shoes and casual styles spanning Merrell and Vibram FiveFingers to Wolverine and Bearpaw line the walls, ready to weather freezing cold (or scorching hot) conditions. The Hike House even has a test track that gives feedback on what a trail will feel like underfoot. Stevenson points out that because not all outdoor products on the market are suitable for hiking red rock, everything is tested prior to making it onto the store’s shelves. “[Footwear is] No.1,” he confirms, revealing that British minimalist brand Inov-8 is the store’s bestseller, its sales topping all other brands combined.

“It’s an ultra-lightweight shoe with a lug pattern that’s superior to anything else on the market. But it’s also a crossover shoe— it’s really important to our guests (many of whom have never

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hiked before) to have a shoe that works well on the red rock but crosses over to running on the sidewalk.”

Stevenson points out that because not all outdoor products are suitable for everyone, every store item is tested prior to making it onto the shelves. “Our employees spend countless hours each week on the trail testing the latest and greatest in footwear and gear,” he affirms, which is a big plus when it comes to guiding customers through sales. For example, a 60-yearold taking a two-mile hike each morning on a trail with significant impediment will require something completely different to a 20-year-old climbing slick red rock. “When you fully understand how something works, and it works well, you will bring your experience and passion to the conversation,” he offers. “We have a unique product mix and it reflects our own taste and style.” Stevenson adds, “It’s more high-end than other stores.” (As Gracie puts it, think “What if Nordstrom Every inch is packed with outdoor gear. went hiking?”)

“From my wife’s standpoint, it’s not necessarily about one particular piece of hiking apparel, but the entire outfit. She believes BEYOND THE GOODS that our customers want to look great on the trail, but also want to be Eager for guests to experience the complete Sedona package, The Hike able to stop by the café or wine bar after their hike and look fashionable,” House introduced the Sedona Trail Finder, a high definition visually Stevenson notes. “While guys typically get more caught up in the technical interactive database that marries their desires to the perfect trail. “Fifty aspects of apparel, girls want all that plus the opportunity to look cute percent of those trails are two hours or less and easy to moderate. It gives while doing it,” he says, jokingly adding, “Guys are worried about falling; [guests] an opportunity to engage with nature at a level most never have, girls are worried about looking cute while falling.” or have not for a long time,” Stevenson says.

So while many retailers chase price points, The Hike House pursues the No longer viewed as an activity reserved for nature nuts, Stevenson products that will add to the overall experience. “Much of it is the higherattributes the global growth in the outdoor lifestyle to greater health end line of each vendor in the market. Some stores will bring in The awareness, the need for an antidote to frenetic modern life and the trend North Face, we bring in The North Face Summit Series,” he elaborates. In of outdoor gear being worn for general recreational use. “People are really addition to technical product, the store also carries crossover pieces, like starting to incorporate it into their lifestyles,” he says. “You get so wound jackets, shirts and pants from the likes of Kuhl, Gramicci, Green Dragon, up in the cities—the traffic and being hit a million different ways with Patagonia and True Grit. “Again, this all hearkens to my wife’s philosophy advertising—that you’re always on. It’s hard to breathe sometimes. When of ‘Look good no matter what you are doing.’” you get out into nature it’s a giant relief.” •

The natural beauty of Sedona, AZ; Greg and Gracie Stevenson.

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Outdoor Preview: Spring 2013

INTO THE LIGHT

Incorporating innovative technologies and colorful athletic styling, the outdoor category continues its seismic shift into everyday wear that spans the Redwood forests to the urban jungles. By Judy Leand

n

O DOUBT, THE U.S. outdoor footwear segment is growing and evolving in ways unforeseen even a few seasons ago. The very idea of the outdoors—replete with its traditional imagery of jagged mountains, forested wilderness and swift-running rivers—has expanded to include urban environments that in turn have helped nurture a new set of activities. In fact, many urban settings have gained status as outdoor venues in their own right, as exemplified by the increasing popularity of city parks, bike lanes, and unique green spaces such as Manhattan’s High Line elevated park. Today’s outdoor market encompasses everything from mountaineering, hiking, paddling and trail running to yoga, action sports and bicycle commuting. On the footwear side, this underscores the importance of trail-to-street versatility, both functionally and aesthetically.

“Outdoor consumers are gravitating towards athletic outfits such as Lululemon, and brown shoes don’t match well. Consumers want more athletic-looking shoes and

fashion is always a critical element,” notes Chris Hillyer, product line and innovation manager for Teva.

Tied to this is the explosion of minimal footwear that has blasted beyond a limited, core running market and is now reverberating in the broader performance and lifestyle realms. Overall, the minimal- and barefootrelated categories have shifted, becoming more of a trend toward lightweight. Although fast and light is certainly not a novel concept in the outdoor market, it is now being approached with new technologies and designs. Just as importantly, minimalism eliminates unneeded materials and layers, making such products more eco-friendly and cost-effective to produce.

A third, hard-to-miss trend is the massive infusion of athletic-inspired materials, technologies, hues and silhouettes into nearly all categories and price points of outdoor footwear. At outdoor specialty shops in particular, the “wall of brown” stands to get a longoverdue splash of bold color.

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“The world of stitchless, sew-free and molded uppers is arriving,” observes Doug Clark, CEO of New England Footwear, makers of GoLite. “Color has become more important in the outdoor space, especially for brands like ours trying to create an identity of our own. We believe the market is due to move away from running silhouettes and more towards outdoor styling. We see leather as the dominant outdoor material being replaced with a diverse mix of materials, allowing outdoor products to utilize more athletic-inspired textiles and synthetics.”

Clearly, many worlds are colliding, which makes for an extremely dynamic marketplace. As Clark so aptly suggests, “Strap in—the outdoor category is going to be leading some exciting changes in our industry.”

“We want to bring bright colors and athletic influences into the market to attract consumers that are looking to have a good time in the outdoors and in their day-to-day lives.”

—Laurance LaHaye, SVP design and product, CMerit (maker of Nord Trail)

the Brave.” According to founder and president Charles Cole, the company’s U.S. growth exceeded 30 percent this past year, primarily driven by the bike market and freeride sports.

And the momentum is expected to continue.

TRAIL RUNNING

The main focus is on minimalism with better protection. As a result, a wealth of innovative “For the first time the outdoor technologies will industry is using the whole box of hit the market Crayolas.” next spring. Two —Tom Berry, VP of global sales, highlights are marketing and merchandising, the TevaSphere Tecnica collection from Teva and Merrell’s “We’re seeing brighter colors, more M-Connect Series. synthetic materials and faster, more TevaSphere is athletic silhouettes. We’re also LIGHT HIKING a spherical heel seeing stitchless construction that The name of the game here is athletic looks and pod-arch lightens and softens uppers.” blended with lightweight performance and system developed From top: Teva, Merrell —Josh Fairchilds, VP development stability. These days, due to time and financial to deliver a more and manufacturing, Oboz constraints, most natural point of impact, efficient transition outdoor enthusiasts and superior stability over varied terrain. The don’t go on long, technology was three years in the making and multi-week included more than 22 unique prototypes. The backpacking trips, TevaSphere design contrasts sharply with the opting instead for bulkier squared-off heels and over-cushioned outings of a few days or less. The upshot insoles of typical athletic shoes. It also addresses the poor support is that big, stiff, heavy boots just aren’t as found in most minimalist footwear that encourages users to change necessary as they used to be. The latest their strides to adapt. designs are versatile, sleek, fast and “TevaSphere technology is a new platform for Teva that adds stability supportive, with low-cut and mid-cut styles to natural motion,” says Hillyer. “The majority of consumers continue to in abundance. land on their heels when running or walking. We felt compelled to create On the technology side, many brands are a technology that allows people to transition through their stride in a ready to roll out what they consider to be natural way without expecting the consumer to change.”

From top: Keen, Tecnica game-changing innovations. For example, The M-Connect Series represents the biggest launch in Merrell’s Keen is launching KEEN.CNX, a collection 30-year history. The line comprises four distinct collections designed of low-profile, lightweight and protective footwear designed to feel to enhance ground connection. They are built on different platforms like a natural extension of the foot. The line includes models for trail, according to end use. The four key categories are Proterra, Barefoot, water and casual use, all of which feature a proprietary PU midsole Bare Access and Mix Master. with a 4mm heel-toe offset that encourages natural movement without Proterra is a new multi-hike collection that brings an agile approach sacrificing support or comfort. to traditional hiking footwear. It’s built on a 4mm drop and has a reverse “There is a trend toward simple, classic designs and reduction of lug outsole design that enhances contact with the ground for increased midsoles to get people closer to the ground,” says Ron Hill, Keen’s VP stability. Proterra’s upper boasts patent-pending Stratafuse technology of merchandising. “With KEEN.CNX, we’ve reduced our midsoles while in the foot cage and injected into the mesh upper, fusing it together for keeping our hallmark comfort and protection by using a proprietary a lightweight fit, natural movement and durability. Regarding the other PU formula that provides underfoot support in a lightweight, lowprofile offering.”

At Asolo, the mission is to be more youthful and market-focused and to offer lower price points without giving up any technical benefits.

Toward this end, the brand has freshened up existing collections with modern hues and design tweaks and is introducing two new “Two things are happening in “Trail running can be lines: Motion Plus and Natural Shape. Motion Plus hiking product is trail running. First is a group anything from running supportive, protective and boasts contemporary styling and color as that craves less shoe. They want at your local park to an well as versatile fit options. Natural Shape, which gets the foot closer to to connect with the ground and obstacle course adventure, the ground, is designed around a new last that’s wider in the forefoot, wear a shoe that’s lightweight, but footwear can also shallower in the instep and forefoot, and has a more rounded and curved flexible, lower profile and has a be used as a comfortable heel. The midsole is integrated with the outsole, which reduces both small heel-to-toe offset. The other travel shoe or [for] weight and gluing. Waterproof construction and new hardware complete group seeks technologies that everyday, which is why the package. allow the shoe to adapt and keep the market is still growing.”

The light hiking category is also being redefined and influenced by the foot in a neutral plane.”

—Mike Roundhouse, outdoor action sports such as downhill and flat pedal mountain biking.

—Jon Teipen, footwear product line director of design, Leading the charge is Five Ten, which proclaims itself “The Brand of manager, Brooks Rocky Brands

BREAKING NEW TRAIL

ON THE RUN

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“Water shoes are a bright spot in outdoor footwear for Spring ’13. Consumers are seeing extra versatility in water shoes more so than sandals.”

—Yahn Lebo, product line and category manager, Wolverine

“There is a consumer need for a beach/hike sandal that can go in and out of water and can be used on paddleboards. We want to target active outdoor participants of all ages, which means making products that are lighter, sleeker, brighter and more attractive.”

—Michael Martin, VP sales, Vibram FiveFingers

three groupings, Merrell Barefoot has been updated with heightened ground feel and a new upper design for running and fitness. Bare Access is also updated but maintains a minimally-cushioned ride. Mix Master models, designed for multi-run activities, are fast, flexible and light and are built on a 4mm drop.

WATER SPORTS

From top: Vibram FiveFingers, Adidas, Columbia

Whether consumers gravitate toward shoes or sandals, the new generation of watersports footwear is designed for versatility and is able to transition easily from wet to dry conditions. Bright colors, fast-drying materials, high breathability and drainage technologies also figure prominently in the equation.

“There is a blurring of lines regarding how products, technologies and designs are being used. We’re finding that water shoes are being used for a variety of

“The growing popularity in areas such as stand-up paddleboarding are providing great ways to reach a new consumer.”

—Bryan Gothie, senior product manager trail and outdoor for New Balance

purposes,” notes Mark Nenow, Columbia’s VP of footwear. “The end use is in the eye of the consumer.”

To help boost warm-weather comfort and performance, Columbia is introducing proprietary Omni-Freeze ZERO sweat-activated cooling technology in both apparel and footwear. Omni-Freeze ZERO is engineered to become cooler in hot, moist conditions. Distinctive little blue rings, embedded and visible in the fabric, contain a special cooling polymer that, when exposed to sweat or moisture, swell like goose bumps, creating an instant and prolonged cooling sensation. The innovation will be featured in Columbia’s Powerdrain Cool shoe. “OmniFreeze ZERO is a huge new technology for Columbia and will be a big ‘anchor block’ for us in footwear going forward,” says Nenow.

At Adidas Outdoor, the category is growing rapidly, which prompted the brand to double the number of styles it will offer for spring. “The Adidas Boat CC Lace [with ClimaCool technology] is the best-selling shoe in our line. Our professional sailors love it because it drains water and has great grip, and consumers like it because of its ventilation that makes it cool and comfortable to wear around town in warm weather,” remarks Greg Thomsen, managing director. “For Spring ’13, we’ll be introducing flip-flops with drainage in the outsole. We’ve also

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expanded our women’s boat shoe and watersports collection and are using gender-specific lasts, colors and performance technologies.” Looking ahead, Thomsen reports that Adidas Outdoor plans to bring performance sandals (other than flip-flops), which are already available in some international markets, to the U.S. in 2014.

Not surprisingly, minimalist designs are particularly suited to water-based activities that require feel, balance and traction, and companies such as Ecco are happy to contribute. One such example is Ecco’s Aqua Sport Njord, a versatile, water-friendly model that offers 360-degree drainage and comes in bright, fun colors. “Slim, tailored, minimalistic designs are expanding into the trail, hike, sandal, and water/multi-sport categories,” says Erik Wolcott, general manager of performance for Ecco USA. “We’re seeing lower platforms, lower drop heights, bright colors and lightweight seamless constructions.”

CASUAL LIFESTYLE The buzz is about comfort, convenience, versatility, packability and youthfulness. From a fashion standpoint, canvas uppers atop vulcanized rubber bottoms remain strong, as evidenced by Sanuk as well as Keen’s new 100 percent vulcanized Maderas line. Also important are fun, travel- and art-inspired colors and patterns such as those in Sorel’s Yaquina Blanket boot and Merrell’s Bazaar collection of

shoes and sandals.

Eco-friendly products and manufacturing stories are also gaining prominence, but price and quality still rule and many consumers aren’t willing to pay a big premium to go green.

From top: Timberland, Birki’s In the lifestyle category, minimalist footwear now has a more holistic vibe due to a growing focus on yoga, gym and Pilates applications. For instance, Ahnu’s new Karma collection focuses on yoga fitness. “The [Karma] collection takes a minimalistic approach that we believe compliments the needs of yoga enthusiasts in their quest for balance,” notes Jacqueline Van Dine, VP product and marketing.

“The shoes are designed to be worn to and from the yoga studio with the added cuteness of everyday wear. The ergonomic design is lightweight in nature, which also makes them good for travel.”

On the technology front, Birki’s is getting a re-launch and the product will include new Dynamic Footbed technology: the natural features and benefits of the brand’s traditional footbed, plus an additional viscoelastic layer below the liner that enhances support while also dissipating heat, weight and moisture. •

KICKING BACK “Bright colors, prints, canvases and textures give more dimension and personality.

Especially in the U.S., the trend is to be more casual and to express individual style.”

—Erin Sander, product line manager, Sorel “We’re seeing the juxtaposition of bright, poppy, saturated colors and earthy, handmade, delightfully flawed materials. The hobochic phenomenon speaks to men and women.”

—Michael Minter, global director of marketing, Sanuk

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outdoor specialty

wh a t ’s s e l l i ng

DUNKELBERGER’S SPORTS OUTFITTER Stroudsburg, PA

IN THE HEART of the Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania sits the 10,000-square-foot Dunkelberger’s, outfitting hunters, fishers, hikers and workers with all outdoor necessities since 1972. The retailer carries footwear brands from Rocky and Danner boots to more athletic versions by Under Armour and Adidas. With the Appalachian Trail in its backyard, the hiking category continues to perform well, buoyed by blue-collar workers opting for this style. “Our customers are really into comfort in their [boots],” buyer Tim Strunk confirms.

By Maria Bouselli

What has been the best brand added to your mix this year? Irish Setter work boots because the hunting and fishing guy also does a lot of manual labor. Also, Chippewa boots being made in the U.S.A. has really driven sales.

There are not many boots made in the U.S.A. anymore.

What is your top priority for your store this fall? For starters, we hope to have a winter. Also, to bring in some new work boot lines since the category has been selling well for us.

What is your fastest growing customer segment? Women.

Is your store better off than it was four years ago? That’s hard to say.

As a gun dealer, ever since the [2008] election, our sales have been through the roof. But people that were laid off have cut into our work boot and clothing sales.

THE BASE CAMP Helena, MT

WITH TWO MONTANA locations, both more than 10,000 square feet, and a majority of the staff who has been on board for 20 years, The Base Camp is a one-stop shop for all things outdoor.

From backpacking to rock climbing gear, owner Scott Brown knows his customers’ needs and is meeting them by expanding his shoe department by 25 percent to include more casual styles. “Footwear has definitely been very profitable and a good traffic builder for our stores,” he says. Brown remains optimistic about the future as Montana’s population steadily increases, along with his clientele.

What has been your bestselling accessory? Water bottles are very popular as there was a big concern that BPA could be harmful, so now we sell BPA-free bottles. Also, sunglasses and sun-proof and insect-repellant clothing are selling well.

What has been the biggest surprise in your store’s business this year? With the economy in not that great of shape, business has been surprisingly good. We’ve had a sales growth every quarter this year. Our unemployment rate is below the national average. When things are red hot, Montana does pretty well and when things go south, things don’t get that bad here. We only just hit 1 million in population—there’s not many people and there’s a lot of space.

What is your top priority for this fall? Paying my staff more. The most important factor contributing to our success is our quality customer service and knowledgeable staff.

How much does eco-friendly play into your customer’s purchase decision?

Somewhat, but not as important as comfort, looks, durability and price.

What is your fastest growing customer segment?

Women looking for comfort footwear that matches our comfortable, casual clothing. We added Dansko about three years ago and we’ve also recently added Toms, Clarks and Born.

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O U T D O O R

P R E V I E W: S P R I N G

2 0 1 3

Ecco

Five Ten

GoLite

fast times Teva

Electric hues amp up lightweight athletic silhouettes.

Rocky

Skechers

Tecnica

Garmont 58

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Nord Trail

Hues for Her

Shades of pink and purple reign in trail running and light hiking.

Montrail

Salomon

Hi-Tec

iSTOCKPHOTO

New Balance

Wolverine Merrell

Asolo

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O U T D O O R

P R E V I E W: S P R I N G

2 0 1 3

Minnetonka

Ahnu

Trailway Chic

Acorn

Dansko

Guys and gals get their nature walk on in trendy and triedand-true outdoorsy looks.

Cushe Merrell

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Nord Trail

Blundstone

Birki’s

Chaco

Sorel Timberland

Five Ten

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O U T D O O R

P R E V I E W: S P R I N G

2 0 1 3

Keen

Ecco

Columbia

Vivo Barefoot

water colors

Wolverine

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL

Sporty hybrids built to grip wet surfaces and drain quickly.

62

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Vibram FiveFingers

Rider

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL

Adidas

Ahnu

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O U T D O O R

P R E V I E W: S P R I N G

2 0 1 3

Green Day

Green is the envy of all other colors in the outdoor palette.

Asics

Vivo Barefoot

iSTOCKPHOTO

Oboz

64

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Hi-Tec

Brooks Patagonia

Adidas

Dansko

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KiS d

TREND SHOPPER Key looks for tots, tykes and tweens span a gamut of season staples to a fresh crop of new looks. From running on freshly cut grass to attending spring formals, designers revisit their own childhoods to create Spring ’13 collections chockfull of imaginative footwear that also take style cues straight from adult counterparts.

By Angela Velasquez

Primigi

Block Party Slick patents add a new level of luminosity to color block shoes. Look for poppy shades juxtaposed to pretty pinks and corals—a perfect punctuation to the season’s prettiest party frocks.

Josmo

Pampili

Wedge In Straight from their older sister’s closet, wedge sandals are inching their way into becoming a staple for girls of all ages. The hint of heel lends a sophisticated air and plays into princess fantasies while pretty sorbet hues and soft metallics keep the look kid-friendly.

Cienta

Going Au Naturel Cool, simple and a carbon copy of mom and dad’s summer wardrobe, linen is an earthy alternative to traditional summer whites. The natural material dresses up or down with ease, and when paired with soft ankle ties and jute soles, the look exemplifies the season’s relaxed vibe.

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Ugg

Burn Rubber The newest kicks on the block put some pep in the step thanks to generous amounts of funky details. Psychedellic swirls, quirky polka dots, chunky glitter and metallics are essential to the look.

Nina Kids

Livie & Luca

Carter’s by Goldbug

Saucony

Bunk Mates The call of the wild beckons little feet with rugged, waterproof shoes. Perfect for summer camp and outdoor activities, the latest crop of gear melds hi-tech perks such as superior traction and draining with designs that engage kids’ Keen adventurous spirit.

Jessica Simpson

Merrell

Stir Crazy With a little bit of this and that, designers are awakening the inner-fashionista in little girls with mixed media embellishments. Standout styles incorporate some of the biggest trends in women’s footwear including braiding, animal prints, Southwestern-inspired materials and micro wedges.

Neon Is a Gas From cool sneakers to boardwalk-ready sandals, the newest wave of neon shoes takes the volume down a notch by pairing the colors with black and other neutrals.

The intense shades lend themselves to other accents, too, like bold animal prints.

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Lemonade Stand Sunny, cheery and bright, yellow refreshes classic spring styles such as ballet flats and sweet sandals. On athletic sneakers, the zesty color channels a “quick as lightning� look—a must-have on the school playfield.

Vans

KENSIEGIRL LIVE COM

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Ted Baker delivers a range of colorful staples this spring.

continued from page 48

TED BAKER: ENGLISH CLASS Even Ted Baker’s Head of Design Roger Smith, who has been with the company for more than 14 years, could have never predicted that a brand distinctly known for its British twist in gentlemanly dressing would become a go-to source of dress and casual footwear for men of all ages. “What’s interesting is seeing how fathers and sons come into our stores now and both find something they like,” he says.

Smith says men tend to grow into the brand—typically starting around age 25—and more importantly they are not growing out. “Men are wearing similar types of clothing, reading the same magazines and listening to the same music. Age barriers are being broken. You see plenty of still stylish men in their 50s and there are even styles in the spring range that I can see my very fashionable grandfather wearing,” he adds.

Just like during the ’50s when Smith said men paid close attention to what type of image they portrayed with their clothes, men are now cycling back to a love affair with fashion, and today’s onscreen heroes are providing inspiration. Look at actor Ryan Gosling, who Smith says has gone from dressing in “fratty and shapeless” clothing to becoming the poster boy for fitted suits. “Nothing is just about function anymore. It’s even happening in home goods where it’s about color and design. Everything is a style choice and what you choose shows a part of your personality,” he explains.

And while Millennials have been given the dubious label “Generation

Me,” thanks in part to Facebook, Twitter and personal style blogs, Smith thinks all ages are benefitting from these networks’ endless flow of sartorial news. “There’s just so much information out there,” he notes. “There was a time when men who bought fashion magazines were the only men shopping in fashion stores. Now there’s fashion news in the sports section of a newspaper.”

Who is your target man? He’s a sophisticated urbanite, not an outdoorsman or country dweller. He’s not into extreme sports. He prefers soccer and cricket and follows competitions such as the Tour de France and Formula One racing, as opposed to actually participating in them. From a style standpoint, he wears our shoes for a number of occasions.

Fundamentally, he’s neat and tidy. We never see him in distressed, battered-up clothes. He likes sleekness, high shine, polished leathers, clean suede—looks that are more formal. That is something that we strongly consider even as we build up our casual end of the business.

His casual is still a bit more formal than most. He’ll pair tailored cotton trousers with a clean structured shoe on weekends. He’s not stuck on one particular look because he’s interested in fashion, but he’s not a victim. He’s confident in his way of dress.

Who are his style role models and inspirations? He picks from a number of places, such as traditional actors and musicians to TV personalities and politicians. From our youngest man’s point-of-view, actor Andrew Garfield has a smart, but stylish way of dressing. Orlando Weeks from The Maccabees dresses with a bit of the ’90s and a touch of the ’50s without looking overly retro. For our older customer, Ewan McGregor is an adventurous and interesting character. And you can’t deny David Beckham’s powerful influence on men’s fashion.

What are some items that he needs more of? In terms of footwear, men need a capsule wardrobe of a few key shoes: a brogue, a Gibson, a penny loafer and a desert boot. And shapeless apparel doesn’t seem contemporary anymore. I think designers like Tom Ford have had a huge impact in the U.S. and, as a result, men are looking for sharper, neater clothing. Jackets are more fitted and men have a lot more confidence with colors. It started with a color pop trouser sock and is growing. The nice thing with how color is used today is that there’s a history and heritage to it. Designers are looking at how aristocracy wore color.

What’s new for spring from Ted Baker? It feels like we’re becoming more casual, but our formal styles are not dropping, we’re just expanding. Espadrilles have done incredibly well and have grown into a full range this spring. Instead of lots of heavier brogues, toes are softer, rounder and plainer. We’re introducing more prints to men’s and exotic Japanese indigo. In key styles, we expanded colors with emerald green and plum. For a preppy look, we added some dustyhued suede, pastels and contrast lacing. Our driving moc story looks like a pencil case of colors. Of course, we still offer a really slick dress shoe. There’s a side to the story that is music-driven with the feel of a ’50s Technicolor film. Our other side tells the story of a fun, eccentric English gentleman with more tonal colors and textures. The look isn’t literal vintage, just has hints of it. •

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SPECIAL REPORT continued from page 18 that’s what got us through those times. And we got tighter and leaner,” he adds, referring to the stores he was forced to close during that period.

Paying even closer attention to customers’ needs and wants was another point both retailers and brands focused on. “We always felt like we gave good customer service, but we broke that down and tried to improve it by doing things even better,” Combs says, adding that he made sure Burch’s had various sizes and widths in stock so it never missed a sales opportunity. Joe Gradia, co-owner and vice president of Hawley Lane Shoes in Norwalk, CT, notes that with so many people out of work, customer service became more important than ever. “It’s back to less people walking in so you have to take those opportunities and provide them with the ultimate service so they want to come back,” he says. “It’s the ‘wow’ factor.”

And both wholesalers and retailers learned quickly they weren’t the only ones changing—customers were altering their buying methods and adjusting to tough economic times too, opting to purchase one pair of shoes rather than multiples at a time and searching harder than ever to find a good value. “I think they’re more cautious and more value-oriented,” says Sharp. “I don’t mean that they’re looking for the cheapest—they’re looking for the right value equation. They’re willing to pay high prices, but want to make sure features and benefits are related to the price.” At Burch’s Shoes, Combs set up seminars with brands to better educate his salespeople as he noticed that customers were more informed than ever. “A lot of times they know more about the products than your most experienced people on the sales floor,” he notes.

David Aznavorian, director of marketing at Earth Inc., calls this new, savvier customer “evolutionary rather than revolutionary,” and cites technology as a way their buying habits have changed. ENK’s Kahan agrees: “There is far less impulse buying and far more educated price shopping. I’m sure we’ve all seen customers in a store with a handheld device scrolling online to check prices on what they are trying on.” Despite many stores and brands not performing as well, one fact still rang true—people always need shoes, and a just-purchased pair is a cheaper way to satisfy the need for something that’s shiny and new. “Let’s face it, people buy in order to make themselves feel good, and a pair of shoes that excites them is a far more reasonable purchase than a new car,” Kahan notes.

As consumers are increasingly starting to purchase several pairs of shoes at a time, McKinley notes this as an indicator that business is starting to look up. “From what our retailers are telling me, they’re starting to see a comeback,” he says. Many brands cite the economy’s recovery, if they believe there is one, as slow and fragile. “It’s difficult to put my finger on ‘Are we in recovery or still in crisis?’” Aznavorian says. Kahan waxes more philosophically: “I’d like to believe we are in a recovery but when you still see high unemployment numbers and weak consumer confidence, it leads you to believe that rather than a ‘robust recovery’ we are in a bit of a stagnated state marked by hopeful expectations, tempered by reality.”

While Eastland’s Brown says that the economy is definitely improving “slowly but surely,” “year over year,” J. Stephensons’ Hauss is more optimistic (Aren’t most retailers?) stating that it’s “night and day”

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comparing where the footwear industry stood four years ago with today.

Overall, brands and retailers agree with Hauss’ positive outlook for the future but would like to speed things up. “In general we’re optimistic about the economy, although we’d like to see the pace of recovery much faster,” Sharp confirms.

Bob Mullaney, president of U.S. operations at Rockport, says while he looks forward to the future, it’s important to look back at what the last four years have taught him and his colleagues. “I think we’ve all been humbled,” he says. “We’re all performing our jobs better than we did previous to the economic challenges we’ve had. Maybe some things came a little bit too easy before and now we’re really rolling up our sleeves and looking at matters with a little bit more diligence and thought.”

Or, putting it more bluntly, Saxon Shoes’ Weiner says: “We’re happy to still be here and put the lights on everyday.” •

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Minnetonka platform wedge. Halter top and shorts from Southpaw.

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Frye loafers. All men’s clothes by American Apparel. Right: Bella Vita rope-embellished loafer.

Opposite: Blondo studded flat. Vintage swimsuit from Southpaw.

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Rockport slip-on.

Braided wedges

by Earth. Jantzen swimsuit.

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Nina Payne kiltie oxford. Bikini top and shorts from Southpaw; vintage hat from Linda Varaday Berman.

Opposite: Hush Puppies wingtip sneakers. Wedge by Dr. Scholl’s Shoes. Two-piece suit by Seafolly.

Top: Ugg washed saddle shoe.

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Espadrille wedges by Bearpaw. Ester Williams white one-piece provided

by Unique Vintage.

Opposite: Teva peep-toe wedges. Fables by Barrie bikini top provided by Unique Vintage.

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Gabor wedge. Ester Williams gingham suit from Unique Vintage.

Opposite, from top left: Delman patent oxford.

Wolverine 1000 Mile leather and canvas sandal. The Sak cork wedges. Vintage suit from Southpaw. Santos

by Carlos Santos saddle shoe. Tami Thompson polka dot suit provided

by Unique Vintage.

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Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez Hair and Makeup: JSterling Models: Tatiana at Q Model Mgmt., Megan at Fenton Moon, Conrad at Red Models

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Donald J Pliner

Nina

D E S I G N E R C H AT : PASQUALE FABRIZIO

Eric Rutberg Transparent

Crystal Ball Designers are having a Cinderella-moment with clear heels and uppers.

E D I T O R’ S P I C K S

And soon the cameras will turn on Fabrizio. The designer just started filming a reality TV show that will follow his production from start to finish, from Italy to his L.A. workroom. —Angela Velasquez

done for this industry. He’s opened the door for so many designers by revolutionizing shoe design and what is considered mainstream. It’s exciting to see where footwear and his vision are going.

What was the best Hollywood project you’ve worked on? I had to recreate Muhammad Ali’s original boots for Will Smith to wear in the film Ali. Everyone involved was fanatic about detail.

That type of push and challenge makes you look at things carefully. Off a millimeter and the entire design may be off.

What would you be doing if you weren’t designing shoes? I’d be designing something else or I’d be a musician. Creativity is a type of madness. You have to be a little mad to try and create something that doesn’t happen naturally.

What is the most fashionable city? Fashion starts in Milan. The city has a pulse on what is going on in the fashion world—it’s where trends begin and where designers look for inspiration.

Which designers do you admire? You could call Christian Louboutin my idol for what he has

Can you tell if a design you’re working on is going to be a hit? It’s always suspenseful, but that is what makes me come back to designs, tweak them or find new materials. There’s a fine line between what is mainstream and sellable and what makes a design stand out. The key is to accommodate a number of tastes without falling into that category of shoes that just resemble other shoes.•

EDITOR’S PICKS PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN POWELL.

PASQUALE FABRIZIO IS known for creating Hollywood magic. Gravity-defying boots that command the stage? No problem, Rihanna. Stilettos with enough stage presence to stand up to the diva standards of Christina Aguilera and Cher? Fabrizio relished the challenge. A latex cat suit with built in thigh-high boots for a Charlize Theron film? “That was a tough one. Latex doesn’t stitch and we were given just four days, but we worked and made it happen,” he says.

Fabrizio honed his design chops while working at his uncle’s custom shoe and repair shop in Los Angeles. He says Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and the like came to his uncle for one-of-a-kind shoes, and from there the custom business took off.

Fabrizio took the helm 20 years ago and has since become a go-to shoemaker for film customers with big box office design demands for novelty. And it was during one trip to Italy for new materials when it struck him that he should star in his own Q by Pasquale collection. “I saw a Murano glass letter opener and thought, ‘Why can’t that be a heel,’” he recalls.

In 2010, Fabrizio debuted a limitededition glass shoe—a design that took five years of craftsmanship and testing. It served as the foundation to his collection, which incorporates an element of glass in every design alongside fashion accents like macramé, treated leathers and leather over lace for unique textures.

Spring ’13 will bring change with new silhouettes including a single-platform pump with a strap that swings from under the sole to the ankle and more pumps with unique profiles.

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QVC FFANY presents

SHOES ON SALE

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can change more than just your look.

Creative Director and fashion icon Nicole Richie knows that shoes can also change lives. Shop “FFANY Shoes on Sale®” on QVC for a huge selection of beautiful shoes from fabulous brands — all at half the manufacturer’s suggested retail price.* Net proceeds benefit breast cancer research and education.

Shop QVC Presents “FFANY Shoes on Sale®” Wednesday, October 24, 5pm ET on QVC FFaNY SPECIAL PINK BENEFACTORS: NINE WEST FOOTWEAR CORPORATION, BROWN SHOE COMPANY & CAMUTO GROUP NINE WEST FOOTWEAR CORPORATION: AK ANNE KLEIN, BANDOLINO, CIRCA JOAN & DAVID, EASY SPIRIT, ENZO ANGIOLINI, MOOTSIES TOOTSIES, NINE WEST // BROWN SHOE COMPANY: NATURALIZER, DR. SCHOLL’S SHOESTM, LIFESTRIDE, RYKÄ, FERGIE FOOTWEAR, CARLOS BY CARLOS SANTANA, ETIENNE AIGNER, FRANCO SARTO, VIA SPIGA, VERA WANG // CAMUTO GROUP: VINCE CAMUTO, JESSICA SIMPSON, BCBGENERATION, LUCKY BRAND // DOUBLE PLATINUM DONORS: DANSKO / GLORY CHEN INTERNATIONAL: LISA & VICKY / NEW YORK TRANSIT: ANN MARINO, NEW YORK TRANSIT / YALEET: NAOT FOOTWEAR // PLATINUM DONORS: CHINESE LAUNDRY / CLARKS / CLIFFS / GUESS / IVANKA TRUMP / KENNETH COLE NEW YORK KENNETH COLE REACTION / MARC FISHER / MICHAEL BY MICHAEL KORS / ORTHAHEEL BALANCE / RIALTO / WHITE MOUNTAIN // SHOE OF THE DAY DONORS: BC FOOTWEAR CAPARROS CORPORATION / CAPE CLOGS / DEER STAGS / DKNY / JELLYPOP / SEYCHELLES / YELLOW BOX // QVC.COM DONORS: ADRIENNE VITTADINI / AEROSOLES / ANDRÉ ASSOUS / ARCHE BALLASOX BY CORSO COMO / KORS MICHAEL KORS // SPECIAL THANKS TO NICOLE RICHIE FOR HER SUPPORT.

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*Based upon supplier’s representations of value. No sales may have been made at this price. A public service announcement. Show dates, times, offers and availability subject to change without notice. © 2012 QVC, Inc. QVC, Q and the Q Ribbon Logo are registered service marks of ER Marks, Inc.

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ATHLETIC MEN’S OUTDOOR KIDS DRESS WORK

Meet Carlos Santos

This newcomer gives classic men’s looks a stylish twist with luxe leathers and color pops.

NAUTICAL-INSPIRED DESIGNS make sense for Portuguese dress brand Carlos Santos as it docks on U.S. shores for the first time this spring. A combination of quality materials and craftsmanship developed over three generations of shoemaking is used on a range of Goodyear-welted footwear featuring everything from two-tone leathers to contrasting soles.

“The spring collection is based on simple styles, each with a particular eye-catching detail,” says Ana Santos, director of marketing. Among the sea of traditional brown and black, the company takes a classic summer buck and turns it into a must-have, with a navy nubuck upper and poppy-red sole to add a graphic punch south of the hem. Wingtips in dusty shades make for a Gatsby-approved gravitas while brogues in red, white or blue colorways fly a flag for Uncle Sam. Elsewhere, two-tone leathers with an almost metallic sheen add an urban edge to sharp suits.

Wholesale prices start at about $150.

When asked whether European men’s tastes differ from their U.S. counterparts, Santos shrugs it off, saying “We can no longer make such a differentiation between markets. People are increasingly cultured with global tendencies, so they are much more open-minded.”

But it hasn’t always been smooth sailing. When the brand first dipped a toe in international waters 35 years ago, it was known as Mack James because, at the time, it was difficult to make it to market with a Portuguese name. (In fact, Santos reveals, many clients even asked that it hide its “Made in Portugal” label.) “[The country] was not seen as a potential market or a quality producer. But we knew how good we were and we still think the same way,” she attests.

Seven years ago, Carlos Santos, the designer, decided to rename the brand after himself and since then “everybody has asked why [it] wasn’t the name of the brand since the beginning. That’s why we can say we have a product that speaks for itself.” So while the name has changed, this family-run company stands for the same high-quality shoemaking it first did back in 1942. As Santos puts it, “Everything [the designer] makes, he makes with determination and passion. He demands respect for the shoes—almost as if they were human!” —Lyndsay McGregor

Buoys Club Reinterpreted silhouettes breathe new life into staples for one British brand.

UNLESS YOU LIVE under a rock, you know that men the world over are dressing sharper than ever. And if you think it’s down to the likes of Ryan Gosling or Kanye West striking a sartorial pose on the red carpet, think again. “In tough times people take their work more seriously and guys want to present themselves in a more professional way,” says Kevin Martel, creative director at Harrys of London. “I’ve seen it really filter through the whole market; even at department store level, buyers understand that guys are dressing up more.”

Since its inception by Tamara Mellon (of Jimmy Choo fame) in 2001, Harrys has focused on creating well-made shoes packed with tailoring and refined styling, durability and comfort for the dapper gentleman who appreciates both fashion and function, and the Spring ’13 collection is no different. A color palette of deep sapphire, emerald green and neutral bone, punctuated with bright cobalt blue and rich mahogany brown, lends itself to a lineup of derby lace ups, desert boots and tassel loafers for a twist on warm weather wear.

Make no mistake: This isn’t your quintessential British brand.

“A lot of English companies are known for welted brogues.

We’re trying to change that perception by using rubber soles and new technologies,” says Martel, pointing to the Downing, the brand’s bestselling shoe, as an example. The black calfskin loafer features all the hallmarks of a classic slip-on, but with one notable exception: It sits atop a Vibram sole. Inspired by— and named after—windsurfing shoes and adapted for the wet streets of London, the rubber sole, in a kaleidoscope of playful colors, revamps the traditionally muted men’s shoe. For spring, the technology spans mocs to sporty lace ups, lending more than a nod to the sea with a non-marking outsole in white.

Meanwhile, hand-sewn moccasins, crafted in softly oiled Kudu leather—“the cashmere of suede”—from South Africa, and custom color techniques, like a navy blue finish over tan leather, answer customers’ calls for a more bespoke product.

Martel, whose resume includes stints at Cole Haan and Giorgio Armani, starts each season by researching materials.

“I’m always looking for really soft skins that have a depth of color,” he says. “It’s the material that tends to drive the design, more so than trends.” To that end, alligator shoes are hand cut by the brand’s senior cutter, Giovanni, who has more than 40 years experience in hand-making shoes and belts. Skins are sourced from sustainable Louisiana farm-raised alligators, and each piece of the two shoes is cut from the same part of two separate skins, ensuring the scale patterns can be matched. Retail prices range from $495 to $3,695, and matching belts are available for all. —L.M.

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DÜSSELDORF,

SEPTEMBER 5-7, 2012

NEW

x See It: 11 offer ea theme world s sy orie ntation Authen : Urban tic, Urb an Acti Design ve A Prime, ttack, Upper & Fresh, Style, White C u Essenti al, Kidw bes, Superio r, a and Sh lk, TradeFor um op & D e co Book It : (Travelt T.T. Travel radeint. offer com arrang s hotel & airfa ) ements r to GDS e .

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Four shows daily: Upper Style, Trend Show, Urban Show and a special Brenta Show featuring new styles from the Italian fashion world in celebration of the 35th anniversary of Italian shoe manufacturers from the region between Padua and Venice participating in GDS. Don’t miss it!

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nd lectures, corner for tre d panel an ps worksho re cusing on futu fo discussions well as n, io sh fa in developments ile ob M al as “Loc as topics such Marketing.”

The trend toward ecologically manufactured fashion is evident at GDS. Exhibitors include El Naturalista, Ecogreen, Sioux (Green Grasshopper), GrandStep and Boombuz. In addition, Snipe will present the first compostable leather shoe.

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

Some collections not to be missed: Cerutti, Comical (Tatoo), Couple Of, Luca Grossi, Stephane Gontard, McQ

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GDS tickets can be ordered in advance free of charge at www.gds-online.com. Each ticket comes with a hall plan, a visitor brochure and the GDS magazine.

Admission to all fashion shows and seminars is free, as is the shuttle bus service and the use of public transportation during the show.

INTERNATIONAL EVENT FOR SHOES & ACCESSORIES

7/19/12 9:33 AM

ATHLETIC MEN’S OUTDOOR KIDS DRESS WORK

Beat the Heat Aetrex introduces its first sandal collection for men.

BELOVED ACCESSORY OF dads, geography teachers and people who wear them with socks, men’s sandals often get a bad rap. Aetrex Worldwide is seeking to change all that when it drops its debut line for spring. On the heels of its women’s sandals success, the Teaneck, NJ-based company has answered retailers’ requests and extended its coveted comfort technology to include styles for men. According to designer Susan Ryder, the collection’s debut at FFANY in June was nothing short of a resounding success. “Guys were taking their shoes off and putting their foot into the product and saying, ‘Oh! Now I get it!’” she says.

Aetrex addresses the category with three fully adjustable silhouettes: Monterey, a thong with dual hook and loop straps; Ventura, a double-strap slide; and Largo, a quarter-strap sandal.

“We took our Lynco shape and molded it right on to the foot bed of the men’s sandal and put a big chunk of memory foam on top of that so when you step down you get the support from the cork arch and then the squishiness of that foam,” Ryder says, adding that everything is treated with Aegis, an anti-microbial embedded in the footbed that protects against fungi, bacteria and odor. “Most men have grown up wearing sneakers. You get used to that feeling on your foot and you don’t want to tolerate something that’s less comfortable than that,” Ryder adds.

In addition to having more than 30 certified pedorthists on staff, Aetrex added Gregory Starr (formerly of Stride Rite, G. H. Bass & Co. and Rockport) to its lineup in April, naming the footwear veteran vice president of product development. “We don’t do technology for technology’s sake, but when we define a problem we like to solve it with innovation,” Ryder asserts. “Styling-wise we’re a very classic, timeless brand,” Ryder says, noting the new sandals range $50 to $60 wholesale. “We want these to be investment pieces that men will keep in their closets for a long time.” She adds, “We don’t just make shoes for people with foot problems—we make shoes for people who want to maintain healthy feet.” —Lyndsay McGregor

American Work Ethic Black Diamond, makers of Carhartt, deliver on the brand’s quality-based heritage.

WHEN HAMILTON CARHARTT founded his namesake company in 1889, his sole mission was to provide practical, quality work wear to the masses. A lot of things related to the American worker have changed in those 123 years, but that message rings as true today as it ever did. Last year, the Dearborn, MI-based brand selected Black Diamond Group, a company specializing in performance protective footwear, as its new licensee. “The line is completely revamped. It’s actually bringing out the image of [the brand] for the first time,” says Rob Mills, president of Black Diamond. The family-owned company continues Carhartt’s relentless commitment to making comfortable and durable work footwear when it bows Carharrt’s first-ever non-waterproof collection for Spring ’13. A full-grain leather upper combined with a direct-attached welt construction—aided by an Ortholite insole and tongue for top-to-bottom comfort—offers a boot to service the oil and gas industry specifically.

“Find a need and fill it” is Carharrt’s motto, and one that stems back to its roots. Like all the products that bear the Carhartt name, Black Diamond first identifies needs and problems in the respective field of work and then looks to its footwear to solve those problems.

“We start with the design elements—from the materials and the rubber to the leather, lining, features and technology—that will fit the need,” Mills explains, adding that each style is put to the test well in advance of hitting store shelves. “We test all of our footwear with construction workers, miners and even sled dog racers in Alaska to ensure what we’ve designed on paper through to the physical product is right for the person and the environment we’ve developed this product for.”

Steel- and soft-toe styles feature full-grain leather, premium waterproofing and job-specific soles built to withstand heavy use, while linings are abrasion-resistant, moisture wicking and antimicrobial. Retail prices range from $99 to $269. “Twenty years ago people would consider work footwear as foot covering,” Mills offers.

“Today [workers] are looking for function and longevity and they want them to be the most comfortable pair of shoes that they own.”

And while hard economic times might force a lot of people to skimp on certain expenses, Mills believes work footwear is definitely not one of them. “Our customers understand the value proposition isn’t in the price—it’s in the quality, the durability and the functionality of the product,” he says, paraphrasing the founder himself who once stated, “Carhartt will remain the badge of a better buy to those who know the value of money.” —L.M.

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LAST WORD

JUST DANCE

Soul Trainers State-of-the-art kicks monitor dance moves while helping combat childhood obesity.

LOOKING TO TRACK your dance moves? Want to shake that booty off—literally? Well, there’s now an app—and shoes—to help you do just that. Thomas Sykes, a student at Loughborough University in the United Kingdom, designed a shoe that combines technology with style geared toward getting young boys off the couch and moving. “The aim was a design that gives children a more worthwhile activity to put their effort into,” Sykes offers. “Instead of spending an average of 10,000 hours before the age of 20 on

sedentary video gaming, they can get out and meet new friends in a (dance) game that actively seeks the interaction of others.”

The GroundWave Shadow Trainers feature built-in accelerometer sensors with a Bluetooth transmitter that exchanges information with a smartphone app. The app illustrates the proper way to do certain dance moves and gives live feedback to see if one can follow all the steps. “When the user activates the app it activates the sensors,” Sykes says. Wearers can

take it a step further by creating their own dance crews, share high scores via social media and hold impromptu dance-offs. “The unison of physical activity and a video game style experience to better the life of the user has huge potential in many markets,” Sykes adds. “We can now start looking at footwear and fashion as products that reach out of their initial function and can, through new technology, better our understanding of movement and activities.”

The GroundWave Shadow

Trainers are meant to emulate a traditional basketball-style sneaker intermixed with fashions reminiscent of early hip-hop culture. “The no-lace system came about after looking at the style of Run-DMC,” Sykes says, adding the design has been coupled with more modern cues taken from the automotive industry. In addition, Sykes constructed the body of the shoe to protect the wearer’s foot while “crashing around on concrete” and also made it flexible enough in certain areas so it’s able to perform even the most complex urban dance step.

While Sykes has no immediate plans to put the GroundWave Shadow Trainers on the market, he hopes to see much more of this technology integrated in future products. “I looked at products like Wii Fit and Nike Plus and thought [about] how their technology or values could be repackaged to suit my needs,” he says. “The accelerometers seemed to be a good way of monitoring movement and are small and require relatively low power to run.”

Sykes, who was awarded the 2012 James Dyson Foundation Bursary for the GroundWave Shadow Trainers, hopes to utilize what he has learned in creating the shoes to pursue an international career in design. Unless, perhaps, a shoe company selects his dance card?

—Maria Bouselli

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