T h e i n a ugura l
P h uk e t Fo o d & W ine Ex po
w i ll s h o w c a s e t h e v ery b est g o ur m e t c u isine,
t h e f i n e s t w i n e s & spirit s,
a n d t h e la t e s t i nnov a t ions
i n lux ur y k i t c h e n p r o duc t s & serv ic es.
It’s the food event of the year!
9-11 M AR CH 2018
RPMIEC • ROYAL PHUKET MARINA PHUKET • THAILAND
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Org anis e d By
H o s t V e n ue s
O f f ic ial M ed ia Par tn er
I
Publisher’s Letter
n Bangkok food is on everyone’s lips—literally and figuratively. Self-confessed foodies obsess over the latest dining trend, while new restaurants sprout up in every conceivable corner within the city limits. And while Thailand’s amazing street food has played a big part in luring in travellers from all corners of the globe, here in BKK the fine dining scene has—over the past few decades— grown in size, stature, and sophistication. In fact, our manic metropolis is even getting its very own Michelin Guide, due later this year (see pg. 16). To put it plainly, Bangkok’s fine dining scene is vast, varied, and vibrant. However, there are literally too many elegant restaurants to try and pick a favourite. Almost every 4 and 5-star hotel in town has a notable F&B outlet, while independent high-end eateries are gaining notoriety and winning esteemed international awards every year (see pg. 15). And as for celebrity chef star power, it’s almost blinding! Not only are resident chefs like Gaggan Anand making headlines, but visiting chefs—often with Michelin cred trailing in their wake—are appearing in the city on a regular basis, whether at pop-up events (see pg. 22), or as part of grand culinary spectacles, such as the upcoming World Gourmet Festival (see pg. 24). Of course, food isn’t everything, so we’ve also packed this issue with our usual arts, entertainment, and lifestyle coverage. In addition, our travel section this month takes a look at the ancient capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai; sister cities that both played a huge part in the history and development of Thailand. Nowadays, they are living museums that open up a gateway into the kingdom’s glorious past (see pg. 44). All this and more—including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at www.bangkok101. Enjoy. com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And if you as a reader feel there’s something we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at Mason Florence Publisher info@talisman.asia.
What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
AUGUST 2017 | 5
CONTENTS 24
CITY PULSE 10
Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in and around Bangkok
12
My Bangkok Meet restauranteur extraordinaire Thanaruek Laowirodge
14
Best of BKK From award-winning restaurants and visiting celebrity chefs, to the arrival of the city’s first Michelin Guide, Bangkok’s fine dining scene has never been more appetizing!
24
Special Report Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel plays host to the 2017 World Gourmet Festival
30
Out & About Learning kitchen tips and tricks from renowned chef Alain Passard
34
Property Profile The Salil hotel brand opens its newest property in the heart of trendy Thong Lor
SNAPSHOTS
61
38
TRAVEL 44
Ancient Capitals In this special 20-page travel feature we explore the ancient capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai
46
See & Do in Ayutthaya Exploring the Ayutthaya Historical Park and beyond
50
Focus on Ayutthaya The annual Wai Khru Muay Thai festival Required Reading A History of Ayutthaya: Siam in the Early Modern World
36
Tom’s Two Satangs On Thai traits
53
38
Bizarre Thailand Thailand’s most enduring ghost story has been retold in more than 20 feature films
54 Heritage The royal retreat of Bang Pa-In retains an air of romance
40 42
Joe’s Bangkok An insider’s guide to the 137 Pillars Bangkok hotel Very Thai Tabletop wipes explained
On the cover
Now in its 18th edition, the annual World Gourmet Festival, hosted once again by the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, brings to the city a veritable A-list of superstar chefs (see pg. 24). Among the kitchen talent coming in September is Cristina Bowerman, whose signature dish ‘Frangipane’ graces our cover. www.worldgourmetfestival.asia
56
Where to Stay in Ayutthaya Pludhaya Resort & Spa
58
See & Do in Sukhothai Exploring the ruins of the ancient city at the Sukhothai Historical Park
61
Where to Stay in Sukhothai Sawasdee Sukhothai Resort; Treasure Sukhothai Resort & Spa
64
Upcountry Now This month’s events and festivals throughout Thailand
ART & CULTURE 66
Art Exhibitions The latest museum gallery openings across the city
72
Music Makers Girls Rock Asia kicks off
Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | AUGUST 2017
bangkok101.com
RETREAT
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REJUVENATION
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7 suites with bathrooms All meals and snacks with your personal Chef All drinks & cocktails {excluding wine & champagne) Pre-arrival concierge service A dedicated team of 6 Housekeeping service (24/7) Waiter and bartender service Driver and 4x4 wheels Vigo {excluding fuel) Airport transferts Gym and spa facilities Pool & pingpong tables Bathroom amenities Optic fiber wifi internet
CONTENTS 74
Cinema Scope This month’s film news and screenings
76
Photo Feature The late photographer Rabil Bunnag’s historic black and white images of the ruins of ancient Sukhothai and Kamphaeng Phet
76
FOOD & DRINK
90
82
Food & Drink Updates
84
Meal Deals Amazing Mother’s Day deals for diners
85
Hot Plates Brasserie Cordonnier
86
Restaurant Reviews Madame Shawn; Blue Parrot; Blue Elephant; Bombyx; China Table; W Does Brunch; Zeta Café
94
Breaking Bread With Chef Henrik Yde-Andersen at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin
96
Eat Like Nym Khao Moo Daeng
98
Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok
NIGHTLIFE
110
Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of select nightspots in Bangkok
LIFE+STYLE 114
Lifestyle Updates
116
Spa Products Antioxidant-rich skin products that Mom will love
117
Spa Review Well Hotel Spa
SIGNING OFF
104
Nightlife Updates
106
Bar Reviews The Bars at Park Hyatt; CRU Champagne Bar; Flava Bar & Lounge
118
Did You Know?... A Bangkok-based fashion photographer is raising funds to buy paper bags for 7-Eleven stores
ART DIRECTOR
CONTRIBUTING
PUBLISHED BY
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PHOTOGRAPHERS
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
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STRATEGISTS
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ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
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108
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CITY PULSE | metro beat
AUGUST’S HOTTEST TICKETS August 2
MOTHER’S DAY August 12
Mother’s Day in Thailand is celebrated on August 12th—which commemorates the birthday of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, the Mother of all Thai people— however this year it will be Monday August 14th that is the public holiday. Mother’s Day is, of course, also a day for treating your own mother, so check out our Meal Deals on page 84 for an array of fine dining restaurants offering special holiday promotions.
SCI-FI FANTASY
When the LA-based trio Lany first came together in 2014 their only aim was to work on a couple of tracks together, demo them, and have some fun in the process. After a string of online hits—the band was named no.1 on Spotify’s most streamed artist of all time, in excess of 50 million on Spotify alone—the band embarked on a headlining tour throughout the UK, Europe, and their native United States. This month they arrive in Bangkok for one night only at the DnD Club (Ekkamai Soi 5/1). Tickets are B2,000. www.thaiticketmajor.com
August 6
Korean guitar virtuoso Sungha Jung is bringing his Mixtape Tour 2017 to the Small Hall of the Thailand Cultural Centre (14 Thanon Walthana Tham) for an afternoon performance starting at 5pm. The 19-year-old first shook the world music scene at the age of 9 when his father recorded him and shared his musical genius with the world—a clip viewed by over 555 million people. Tickets are B1,000 and B1,500, or for B2,400 you can get a VIP package which includes a signed copy of his latest CD and a photo session with the artist before the show. www.thaiticketmajor.com
August 10
Until September 3
If you’re a fan of James Cameron’s groundbreaking 2009 film Avatar, then you won’t want to miss Avatar: Discover Pandora, a new and interactive exhibition inspired by the film. Visitors to the 1,100 sq.m entertainment and educational experience will leave the 21st century behind and step into a 22nd century world filled with science and wonder. The exhibit is being staged at The Mall Bangkapi (3522 Lat Prao Rd)—which for some may seem almost as long a trek as a trip to the planet Pandora— and features recreations of creatures such as the Banshee, Direhorse, Viperwolf, and the people of the Na’vi tribe. Opening hours are Monday to Friday from 9am till 9:30 pm, and weekends from 10am till 10pm. Tickets are B490 (children B390). www.avatardiscoverpandorath.com 10 | AUGUST 2017
American dance-rock band DNCE will make their Bangkok debut this month at GMM Live House, (8F, CentralWorld). Formed in the summer of 2015, the band features Joe Jonas and Jack Lawless, both from the Jonas Brothers band (Lawless was the drummer), as well as members JinJoo Lee, and Cole Whittle, who says: “Musically, we sound like disco funk hits played by a good garage band.” Showtime is 7pm, and general admission tickets are B2,500 each, or for B4,000 fans can purchase a special ‘Meet & Greet Package’. www.thaiticketmajor.com
August 17
Ooh la la!... the Grammy-winning French indie pop band Phoenix will be appearing this month at Moonstar Studio 8 (Ladprao Soi 80) as part of the Singha Light Live Series Vol 2.4. The band are touring to support their new album Ti Amo—the first release since 2013’s critically lauded Bankrupt—which touches on the foursome’s European and Latin roots. Showtime is 7:30pm and tickets are B3,000 each. www.ticketmelon.com bangkok101.com
metro beat | CITY PULSE
AUGUST’S HOTTEST TICKETS August 17
Multi-platinum selling, award-winning artist Ariana Grande is coming to Thailand, bringing her Dangerous Woman Tour to Impact Arena (Muang Thong Thani) for one night only. The 24-year-old first burst onto the international music scene with her smash-hit debut album Yours Truly in 2013, which hit #1 on the Billboard Top 200. Her music can generally be described as dance pop with elements of R&B, funk, and hip hop. Gates open at 7:30pm and tickets range in price from B2,500 to B6,500 (with VIP special packages ranging from B11,000 to B24,500). www.thaiticketmajor.com
TRAVEL FAIR August 10-13
August 24
American alt-rock, post-grunge superstars the Foo Fighters are returning to Bangkok—they were last here in 1996—and will be performing at Challenger Hall 2 (Muang Thong Thani). Begun by drummer Dave Grohl as a one-man project following the dissolution of Nirvana after the death of Kurt Cobain, the award-winning band has been going strong now for over 20 years, and are known for their powerhouse performances. Tickets range in price from B2,500 to B6,500. www.thaiticketmajor.com
August 31-September 5
Ladies and (certain) gentlemen, prepare yourselves for Australia’s Thunder From Down Under Live in Bangkok, coming to Moonstar Studio 8 (Ladprao Soi 80) for six nights only. Featuring an all Aussie line-up of super-hunks, this high energy male dance revue promises a whole lotta six packs and as little clothing as possible. Ticket prices are: B2,500 for standing room plus one drink; B7,000 for seating plus two drinks; and B40,000 for a VIP 6-person seating package, complete with champagne, vodka, beer, ice, and more. Also note that the September 4th performance is ‘Ladies Only’ and the September 5th performance is ‘Gay Men’ only. www.ticketmelon.com bangkok101.com
The Thai International Travel Fair is a 4-day event being held at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center (Rathcadapisek Rd). Visitors to this event enjoy special privileges, tourism products at special prices, and exciting tour program promotions (both in Thailand and internationally). The list of participants includes travel companies, airlines, and entrepreneurs who have tourism-related businesses. The fair runs from 10am to 9pm each day, and admission is free.
ROCK THEATRE August 4-5
Described as a “theatrical rock show”, Chanudom x Rasmee is a collaboration between Chanudom Suksatit and Rasmee Wayrana (best known for her acclaimed Isan Soul album). The 2-hour performance promises a cultural blend of music, full of personal expression and musical virtuosity, with a specially designed light show as well. Showtime each evening is 8pm at Studio 28 (Krungthep Kreetha 37). Tickets are B1,000, or B3,500 which includes free champagne, wine, and a live audio CD recording. www.chanudomxrasmee.com
FASHION FAIR August 30-September 3
Fashionistas will be out in full force when the Elle Fashion Week 2017 gets underway at CentralWorld (999/9 Rama I Rd). The five day event aims to support and enable Thai designers by giving them a space for public display and publicity in the international arena— pushing Thailand to become a regional fashion leader. Organizers promise 15 shows featuring 24 leading designer brands, including as Asava, Everyday Karmakamet, and Tube Gallery. www.ellethailand.com AUGUST 2017 | 11
CITY PULSE | my bangkok
Thanaruek Laoraowirodge A restaurateur extraordinaire, Thanaruek Laoraowirodge runs a gourmet dining cruise, several branches of the superb Supanniga Eating Room, and is behind the Michelin-starred Somtum Der in New York.
B
orn in Khon Kaen to a family of merchants, Thanaruek Laoraowirodge shuffled between Isaan and Bangkok while studying at Assumption and then Chulalongkorn University. He went to New York to pursue a master’s degree from NYU, and then came back to work in his family’s business. However, missing New York, he and some friends opened Minbar Royale, a New York bistro with Parisian touches, something at that time which was completely new to Bangkok, and it was here that he got his first taste of the restaurant business. Following this, he worked for Singha as their EST. 33 operator, where he continued gaining insights and experience in preparation for opening his future establishments; the two Supanniga Eating Rooms in Bangkok, a dining cruise boat, and Supanniga Eating Room by Khun Yai × Roots Coffee, the latest venue out on the Chao Phraya River which serves up traditional food from Thailand’s Eastern provinces (Laoraowirodge’s grandmother hailed from Trat).
Der (New York) is also is one of my best friends, so it was nice to work together. Its success surprised me very much. I never thought we’d receive this much recognition. Only in our first year we were selected to be in Michelin’s Bib Gourmand and then we received one-star recognition from Michelin. It’s funny because our only intention was to deliver the most authentic Isaan food possible to New York City.
we open a restaurant with the same concept in Bangkok. I realized that there was a demand for Eastern cuisine and also a demand for restaurants that offered nostalgic, home-cooked meals.
What’s your take on the Bangkok dining scene these days, as well as the arrival of the Michelin guide here? The Bangkok dining scene is more diverse now, but many trends come and go. Of course you can tag along with the hype and make a profit but how can you make sure that it is sustainable? More diversity also reflects on more sophistication, especially in Why did you start Supanniga Eating Thai cuisine. I think in the past five Room and what makes it special? years Thai food has been a major One thing I learned from working at part in boosting the Bangkok dining Minibar Royale is that recipes are the scene. For Michelin, I am very glad heart of the restaurant business, this that they’ve finally come to Bangkok, coming from a man who is not a chef but more on the management side. My as they are the most standardized and accepted world restaurant award. sister and I decided to start compiling our grandmother’s recipes. Her recipes Both restaurants and consumers will benefit from this. It will create more come from our family oral history, competition among restaurants and recited by my grandmother and her assistant. Once my grandmother passed also is an impetus for them to maintain their quality. away we decided to open a restaurant with her recipes as a reminder of her Were you surprised by the success of life. At that time Supanniga Home, Somtum Der in New York? our family’s four-room boutique We opened Somtum Der there only hotel in Khon Kaen, still did not have one year after opening the Bangkok a restaurant, so we opened Krua Supanniga by Khun Yai. Two years later, branch. It was a great opportunity for me to go back to the city that I’ve my best friend, who also admires my always loved. My partner for Somtum grandmother’s cooking, suggested 12 | AUGUST 2017
Where are some of your favourite places to eat in Bangkok? I like to go to Daimasu, a Japanese Izakaya place just off Surawong Road. I also love the street food on Convent Road and Sathorn Soi 10. Where would you go for a “suit & tie” fine dining affair? I actually never go to fine dining restaurants that require suits. I think nowadays fine dining restaurants have less strict dress codes and not many places in Bangkok require you to wear a suit anymore. I am more of a casual dining person and more into street food, but for special occasions I love going to Il Fumo for Italian food. How do you see the food scene evolving in Bangkok over the next decade? I think that in the future people will look for something more detailed and that restaurants’ business concepts will be more refined. I actually think it will resemble something more like New York. We will have more diversity and variety, with people craving things they have never tried and experienced. The world is getting smaller and smaller. People know more and more about others cultures and ethnicities and they want firsthand experience in exploring these things. interview by Dave Stamboulis www.supannigaeatingroom.com bangkok101.com
Order an appetizer and main course, or main course and dessert, for THB 750 net. Or all three courses for THB 950 net. The menus feature a selection of Italian specialities for each course. Menus change weekly and will be served within 45 minutes! Monday - Friday, 11.30-14.30 hrs., L floor.
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CITY PULSE | best of bkk
A Full Plate While there’s no shortage of fine dining options in Bangkok, the problem is finding time to visit them all
Beefcheek, at The Water Library Chamchuri
T
here’s a world of dining options in Bangkok, both literally and figuratively. The restaurant roster here represents practically every nation on earth (even North Korea), so food fanatics in this city have—to put it simply—the world at their doorstep. But serious foodies know that “fine dining” is, at its core, a concept wherein the food takes centre stage and the fine linen napkins, elegant silverware, crystal wine glasses, and plush seating are merely the finishing touches that complete the overall experience. If the food doesn’t have that “wow” factor, no amount of fancy frills can make up the difference. In Bangkok there are so many restaurants serving up award-winning fare that it would be a monumental task to list them all. We name-check quite a few in the pages of this issue—you’ll find dozens mentioned in the stories and reviews that follow—but the list is still not close to being complete. However, we can happily offer a few additional suggestions if your mission is to track down this town’s top tables. Should you happen to be craving high-end Italian, there are seemingly endless options available. Restaurants such as La Bottega Di Luca, Gianni Ristorante, Opus, Sensi, La Scala, and Enoteca have all carved out a niche for themselves with this town’s discerning diners. Meanwhile, fans of Spanish fare can easily satisfy their cravings at Tapas Y Vino, Uno Mas, and Islero (to name but three). And if it’s French you’re after, Aldo’s Bistro has been generating a huge buzz for itself, but if you’re the daring sort make your way to Le Bouchon, a fine French resto inexplicably located
14 | AUGUST 2017
smack dab in the heart of Pat Pong (one of Bangkok’s most notorious red light districts). New world cuisine is also well represented in this city, with modern and inventive Australian being served up at Freebird, and virtually 100 percent New Zealand produce on offer at Kai. For a little bit of everything from everywhere, you can’t go wrong with hot spots such as Bunker, Water Library Chamchuri, Tables Grill, Wild & Co., Whale’s Belly, and Upstairs Mikeller (where casual fine dining is paired with exceptional craft beers). Of course, this being Asia it stands to reason that Asian cuisine—in all its incarnations—has a strong presence here. It’s been said that there are some 3,500 Japanese restaurants in Bangkok, but at Sushi Masato the kitchen is helmed by Masato Shimizu, who was previously the youngest chef in NYC to have his restaurant awarded a Michelin star. Meanwhile, for high-end Chinese M Krub is a hands-down favourite, and for all things Indian the choices are wide ranging, with Indus, Rang Mahal, Maya, and Charcoal leading the pack. Last but not least, Thai food has been given a gourmet makeover by many a celebrity chef, and at the recently opened Canvas, US-born chef Riley Sanders is doing some incredible things with local Thai ingredients and produce. Another restaurant creating a buzz lately is Sri Trat, where delicacies from Eastern Thailand are served up in an ultracool, contemporary setting. However, if you want a classic and refined Thai ambience look no further than Ruen Urai, where traditional Thai recipes are meticulously prepared and beautifully presented. bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
The Must-Try List
Inclusion on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list has made these 10 Bangkok dining establishments pilgrimages for serious foodies
E
ach year the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list— sponsored by S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna— welcomes a host of new entries, but there are also many restaurants that find their way onto the coveted top 50 without fail, year after year. In Bangkok, there are six restaurants that have made it onto this prestigious list multiple times, as well as several that have been awarded only once, but will undoubtedly return to the winner’s circle in years to come. The most notable multiple winner is Gaggan, the eponymously named eatery owned and operated by Chef Gaggan Anand. His restaurant, specializing in progressive Indian cuisine, has secured a place on the list five times since the awards began in 2013, and he has held the No. 1 position for an unprecedented three years in row (2015-2017). Meanwhile, his predecessor in the No. 1 spot was also a Bangkok fine dining institution, namely David Thompson’s Nahm, which has also placed on the list a total of five times. The only other Bangkok member of the “every year” club is the renowned Eat Me restaurant, helmed by Chef Tim Butler, which began its five-year run by placing in the number 19 spot back in 2013. Bangkok also boasts two restaurants—both specializing in Thai food with innovative twists—that have made it to the list an impressive four times. Bo.Lan has Eat Me
been in the top 50 every year except for 2016, while the Issaya Siamese Club has only missed being on the list in 2013. Another multiple-year winner is the amazing Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin (at the Siam Kempinski hotel), which has made it onto the list twice. In 2017 there were several new additions to the list, including the acclaimed modern German restaurant bangkok101.com
Bangkok’s big winners in 2017 Sühring, Chef Thitid Tassanakajohn’s modern Thai cuisine resto Le Du, the Bangkok’s branch of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, and The Dining Room at the House on Sathorn, where Turkish chef Fatih Tutak’s multi-cuisine creations continue to attract the attention of serious foodies. “Given the country’s rich culinary history, unique Thai hospitality, and vibrant restaurant scene, Thailand is Le Du
House on Sathorn
rightly regarded as one of the most celebrated food capitals of the world,” remarked William Drew, Group Editor of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. “Now in its 5th year, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants is proud to showcase the region’s diverse cuisines, introduce gourmets to innovative dining concepts, and celebrate Asia’s emerging talent.” AUGUST 2017 | 15
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Make Room for Michelin The arrival of the infamous “little red book” is about to change the face of fine dining in Bangkok By Tim Footman
T
he rumours had been bubbling under for months, if not years, but finally in April of this year it became official. With the support of the Tourism Authority of Thailand (to the tune of 143.5 million baht), Michelin will be launching a Bangkok edition of its august restaurant guide towards the end of 2017. A casual observer might have assumed that Michelin already had a foothold in the city’s dining scene. After all, chefs trailing a collection of stars have been operating in the city since 2004, when the Pourcel twins from Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier opened D’Sens at the Dusit Thani (RIP). But it was as the Noughties turned into the Teens that things got really exciting, with David Thompson (Nahm), Jean-Michel Lorain (J’Aime), Henk Savelberg (Savelberg), Henrik Yde-Andersen (Sra Bua) and Vincent Thierry (Vogue Lounge), all of whom had fronted Michelin-starred places overseas, bringing their talent and cachet to Krung Thep. For out-of-towners, there was Aziamendi at Iniala in Phuket, overseen by Basque wunderkind Eneko Atxa. And if you got jaded with that selection, it seemed that every week one or more of the big hotels was hosting a Michelinanointed guest chef, rolling out his or her specialities for the palates and Instagram accounts of Bangkokians. And when L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon opened at the end of 2014, surely that meant Bangkok had made it to the upper reaches of fine dining? Well, yes and no. Clearly the city was raising its culinary game, catering to a critical mass of Thai and foreign residents who not only had the cash to support so many high-end enterprises, but were sophisticated and experienced enough to want to sample these new, sometimes challenging menus, and compare them with other meals in the world’s major dining locations such as New York, Paris, London and Tokyo. Not just the “locals”, either—suddenly, foodies were coming to Bangkok not just for the pungent aromas of street food, but for high-end dining. One of the most exciting developments was
16 | AUGUST 2017
BANGKOK’S MICHELIN MEN
Top row: Henk Savelberg; David Thompson. Middle row: Jean-Michel Lorain; Henrik Yde-Andersen. Bottom row: Vincent Thierry; Joël Robuchon
bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
Gaggan Anand
The Bo.Lan team
the improvement in the quality and variety of Thai food; the success of Thompson’s Nahm, and Bo.Lan, run by his protégés Bo Songvisava and Dylan Jones, provided an inspiration to others who wanted to take the cuisine to new levels, from old hands such as Ian Kittichai (Issaya) to young Turks including Ton Tassanakajohn (Le Du and Baan) and Bee Satongun and Jason Bailey (Paste). But still Michelin wasn’t biting. It’s important to remember that, despite the pervasive use of phrases along the lines of “Michelin-starred chef”, the coveted étoiles are awarded to restaurants rather than individuals; there may be a wizard working magic at the hob, but to earn the approbation of guide’s notoriously picky (and anonymous) inspectors, everything else has to be equally transcendent, including service, décor, and all-round ambience. And, despite all the jasmine-scented PR about the ‘Land of Smiles’, it was often in these areas that Bangkok’s
Nahm bangkok101.com
Ton Tassanakajohn restaurants could be found wanting, even those that aspired to elevated high dining kudos. Waiting tables is not seen as a high-status career and finding staff who aspire to more than just taking orders and bringing the dishes is still a challenge in Thailand. Of course, just because the guys with the tyres didn’t seem interested, it didn’t mean that Bangkok was entirely off the foodie map. Restaurants from the city started showing strongly on the World’s 50 Best and Asia’s 50 Best lists, with the molecular Indian wonderland known as Gaggan topping the latter poll for the past three years. And the Gelinaz Shuffle, a genre-clash project where top chefs are uprooted from their posts and deposited in new kitchens on the other side of the world, last year featured three Bangkok-based chefs (Thompson, Bo, and Gaggan Anand). Bangkok is clearly somewhere the culinary world takes seriously.
Gaggan AUGUST 2017 | 17
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Savelberg
J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain
Le Normandie
But, hey, better late than never; although it seems that not everyone is entirely happy with the arrival of another set of metrics to separate the sheep from the goats. Some of these objections are predictable. ML Sirichalerm Svasti, aka celebrity chef McDang, has gone into his standard tirade about silly foreigners not understanding Thai food, having possibly missed the memo explaining that it won’t just be native cuisine under the microscope; in the latest Michelin Guide to Singapore, all the two- and three-star places are French or Japanese. More serious worries have been prompted by the example of territories such as Hong Kong, where restaurateurs have raised their prices to capitalize on their newfound fame, and landlords have similarly whacked up the rents. However, despite Michelin’s reputation for favouring iterations of classic French cuisine, with fine wines, starchy linens, and even starchier waiters, the Guides have broadened their remit. Chef McDang
In recent years, particularly in Asian cities, they’ve acknowledged smaller, more humble establishments that offer local specialities done very well. Street food and shop houses are all in with a chance; also places that do non-posh variants of non-Thai food, like ramen, burgers, and tapas. The Bib Gourmand awards, that recognize admirable establishments worthy of any foodies’ attention, are bound to throw up a few surprises (the irony of the inspections coinciding with the BMA’s controversial “reorganization” of street food has not gone unnoticed). According to the rumour mill, Michelin inspectors have been hard at work in the capital’s eateries, checking out the places that have cropped up on other lists and some new ones as well. Establishments will thrive or die, not just on the basis of the food but on whether the staff are watching TV soaps and talent shows when they should be taking orders. And inevitably every serious
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best of bkk | CITY PULSE
80/20
Vogue Lounge foodie in town is drawing up two parallel lists, of the restaurants that will be in the guide—and the ones that should be. So who’s going to get the big accolades? Well, for a start, it’s not a done deal that there will be any three-star awards; after all, Singapore still only has one restaurant that made it. But it would be surprising if Joël Robuchon didn’t maintain his impressive record with the inspectors—his restaurants around the world share 28 stars, more than any other chef. At the same time, it might look perverse if Gaggan or Nahm went unrecognized. Add a few old warhorses such as Le Normandie or Blue Elephant, newer places (maybe Sühring, Le Du, or 80/20) and a couple of affordable, down-home wild cards, and you’ve got the makings of a sensible guide to all that’s good about high-end dining in this crazy city. Ultimately, though, the fine details of which restaurant gets what don’t matter—except to the people who work at them, of course. This is really about the city as a whole, recognition that its dining scene is now being taken seriously, and an encouragement to everyone, starred or not, to raise their game even higher. bangkok101.com
Sühring
IT’S WRITTEN IN THE STARS The first Michelin Guide for motorists was published in France in 1900 but it wasn’t until 1926 that stars were first awarded to the best restaurants. It restricted its scope to Europe until 2005, when the guide to New York came out. The first Asian city covered was Tokyo, in 2007. The Michelin inspectors are restaurant and hotel professionals who maintain their anonymity and pay for their meals. The famous star system, formalized in 1936, is summarized as follows: 1 STAR: A very good restaurant in its category 2 STARS: Excellent cooking, worth a detour 3 STARS: Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey
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CITY PULSE | best of bkk
On the Sweeter Side From French pastries to Japanese tasting menus, these gourmet desserts are selling like hot cakes
Paris Mikki photos courtesy of Natasha I Gillett Photography
By Kelly Harvey
PARIS MIKKI Indulging oneself in a freshly baked French pastry and hot brewed coffee, with a good book in hand while soaking up the sun and letting the world slowly pass by, may be an everyday occurrence in Paris but in traffic-ridden Bangkok this sounds more like a far-fetched dream. Luckily for us Bangkokians, after training and working in Paris for 10 years, award-winning pastry chef Carol Boosaba returned to her native Thailand to open her own French café and bring a piece of Paris to Bangkok. After a long search for the perfect location, she opened the first branch of Paris Mikki in December 2014 on the relatively quiet Sukhumvit Soi 19. Ideal for people watching, the quaint blue and white café offers both indoor and outdoor seating—square tables and blue and white wicker chairs line the outside terrace, while inside a marble topped bar counter and high chairs line the width of the glass window looking outwards towards the tranquil street. Dark woods and gold trimmings set against the white walls provide a touch of elegance and calmness. The second branch opened at the end of March this 20 | AUGUST 2017
year in the hip hangout spot Open House on the 6th floor of Central Embassy. Located right in front of the escalators, it’s hard to miss the white marble countertop adorned with rows of perfectly crafted cakes. Although less peaceful than the Sukhumvit Soi 19 locale, the new spot offers the same decadent cakes and is ideal for a catch up with friends or an anytime sweet treat.
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best of bkk | CITY PULSE As for the cakes and pastries themselves, Carol sticks to classic French recipes and flavour pairings, adding intricate details that make them look almost too good to eat. Paris Mikki’s signatures include the classic Millefeuille (B225) made with Madagascar vanilla bean, which is often on reserve and sold out even before opening, and the Phillip 70 (B215), a simple but oh-so-good dark chocolate cake. Other must-try cakes include: the Suzuki (B200) topped with coffee, walnut, and caramel; Lady Pinske (B190) made with almond, lychee, and raspberry; and the Chocolate Tart (B200), the chef’s own personal favourite. The eclairs come topped with strawberry (B135), caramel popcorn (B145), or chocolate raspberry (B155), while for fans of savoury, the croissants are beautifully fluffy and buttery— just as they should be—and are available in plain (B85), ham and cheese (B95), or chocolate (B90). Each batch of baked goods is delicately made fresh by hand daily, which accounts for the limited numbers. The small works of pastry-perfection sell like hot cakes and are often sold out by 2pm. Meanwhile, the coffees on offer include everything from espressos to caramel macchiatos, and are available hot or iced. Prices range from B100 to B140. Fruit juices (B85), rose lemonade (B100), and hot or iced chocolate (B130 or B135) are also on offer for the non-coffee drinkers www.facebook.com/parismikki KYO BAR What looks like an open-air omakase restaurant straight out of Kyoto, is in fact a dessert bar producing gourmet Japanese dessert experiences. Located on the ground floor of Siam Paragon, next to Kyo Roll En (same owner), Kyo Bar features only 13 seats around a bamboo counter, allowing for an intimate experience as guests watch the chefs create, plate, and serve up works of sugary art on a plate. Also taking inspiration from his time abroad, pastry chef Dej Kewkacha, of the Kacha Brothers food empire, designed the menu to incorporate elements of Japanese culture and reflect the current season. Using a variety of flavour, texture, and colour combinations, plus a range of techniques, the ingredients come together to make playful and extremely creative desserts. Inspired by a Japanese setmenu dinner (kaiseki), the menu is split into three parts—appetizers, mains, and drinks. Despite the amount of meticulous work that goes into each dessert bangkok101.com
the prices are extremely reasonable. Guests may choose to have a main and beverage (ume) for B300, appetizer and main (take) for B350, or appetizer, main and beverage (matsu) for B400. The simply named Egg, which comes served in an egg shell inside a cardboard egg carton, consists of a smooth custard topped with whipped cream and a blueberry. Although it may seem understated, a sweet surprise lies in store as your spoon reaches the bottom of the shell. BBQ is Dej’s version of charcoalgrilled king crab. Soon after it is served the chef takes away the crab “to be grilled” and what is left is edible charcoal sculpted out of crispy meringue and coloured with bamboo charcoal. Sweet matcha and tarte passion fruit cream ‘dipping sauces’ complete the dish. One of the signature desserts, Cacao Story, is based on the growth of cacao seeds—from the planting and flowering, to the falling of the seeds. In a celebration of chocolate this dish sees a chocolate lava cake in the shape of a cacao seed filled with chocolate praline placed alongside a hazelnut covered chocolate brownie and ice cream mound. Leaf and tree shaped cookies provide a touch of saltiness to an otherwise extremely rich dish. Another signature dish, Zen Garden, offers an edible stone garden, composed of a stone shaped double cheese cheesecake, flavoured with black sesame seeds and surrounded by paths of bamboo charcoal cookies and sumi cream, as well as traditional mochi covered in black sesame seeds. Granita ice cream with black sesame seeds provides a sweetness and refreshing bite to the end to the dish. While coffee, mocktails, and fizzy drinks are available, hot tea helps settle the stomach after this sugary set. www.kyorollen.com/kyobar AUGUST 2017 | 21
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Future Feasts
Mark your calendar for these upcoming fine dining events
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here are always innovative and interesting foodie events going on in Bangkok. One of the big chef-related events coming up is the 18th annual World Gourmet Festival being held at the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel from September 4th to the 10th (see our extended coverage of this event starting on pg. 24). However, there are quite a number of other intriguing gourmet events coming up in both August and September, some of which incorporate a range of live musical and theatrical entertainment.
AUGUST 2: Each and every Wednesday, from now until September 27th, the Hotel Muse Bangkok presents a dinner theatre spectacle at Medici Kitchen & Bar with the ‘Flavortale Dinner Show’, featuring extravagant visual effects, glamorous costumes, and stunning dance performances. Doors open at 6:30pm (for dinner) and the show starts at 8pm. For information call 02 630 4000.
Flavortale Dinner Show AUGUST 5: For an evening of “rustic living” with style, come to Harvest restaurant for ‘Know Your Game’, a 5-course dinner, featuring four dishes of savoury game meat from Europe, plus a delectable dessert. The evening’s meal is presented in association with Beervana, who will curate five delectable and unlimited craft pours to go with each course. Tickets are B2,900 and the evening begins at 7pm with a welcome drink. To reserve a seat call 097 235 8286, or email info.harvestbkk@gmail.com. AUGUST 9: The Grand Opera Thailand will be presenting another in their series of special once-a-month dinner and show performances at the Banyan Tree Hotel’s 60th floor Vertigo Too bar and restaurant. This one-of-a-kind evening of highly elevated food and music includes a carefully crafted four-course degustation menu with 22 | AUGUST 2017
Grand Opera Thailand wine pairings for the price of B4,900, or for just B2,800 you can reserve balcony seats that include servings of international beverages. This month the company will be performing songs from the hit Broadway musical Chicago, while upcoming events include songs from Phantom of the Opera on September 6th, and La Traviata on November 8th. To make reservations, call 02 679 1200 or email hostesses-bangkok@banyantree.com. SEPTEMBER 26-OCTOBER 1: Over the course of six days, an amazing collection of 12 superstar chefs will be wowing local diners with a series of daytime and evening culinary events including cooking classes, intimate Chef’s Table dinners, and masterclasses with the experts at the annual SO Amazing Chefs event at the SO Sofitel Bangkok. Once again the SO Sofitel’s Executive Chef Paul Smart—along with Chef de Cuisine of Park Society Joost Bijster—is part of the team in charge of bringing this collection of kitchen craftsmen to Bangkok. Among the talent scheduled to appear are six chefs hailing from restaurants that have been anointed with one Executive Chef Paul Smart or more prized Michelin stars, including Jacques Pourcel from the 3-Michelinstarred Le Jardin des Sens in Montpellier, France, and Patrick Jeffroy from the 2-Michelin-starred Restaurant Patrick Jeffroy in Brittany. For more detailed information call 02 624 0000 or visit www.sofitel.com. bangkok101.com
ARTFULLY REFRESHING Awaken your palate to inspired cooking without compromise
* A thick-cut Tasmanian Salmon smoked by specialists in Phuket
Explore an array of finely crafted international and seafood dishes at Embassy Room. Each dish holds a personal story inspired by the people and places Executive Chef Franck has explored during his world travels. Join us for a delightful luncheon or dinner gathering over aquatic delicacies accompanied with exquisite wines, family and friends.. Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 For reservations, please call +66 2011 7466 or email bkkph.fb.reservations@hyatt.com
CITY PULSE | special report: world gourmet festival 2017
A Chef Spectacular
Once again the Anantara Siam Bangkok plays host to the World Gourmet Festival, tempting local gourmands with a stellar line-up of guest chefs preparing gala dinners, brunches, and more
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ach year the arrival of the World Gourmet Festival has Bangkok’s legions of foodies salivating in anticipation. This year marks the 18th edition of this popular event, which runs from September 4th to the 10th at the Anantara Siam Bangkok hotel (presented in collaboration with S.Pellegrino). This year the chef line-up includes chefs from all over the world, with many new faces among the returning regulars. The lavish meals will be taking over the hotel’s four main dining establishments—Madison, Spice Market, Shintaro, and Biscotti—while the champagne and cocktail
events will take place in the Lobby Lounge and Aqua bar, and the ‘Fashion and Fragrance’ event will be held in the Pimarnman room. In addition, the festival is proud to support HRH Princess Soamsawali’s AZT fund for Pregnant Woman of the Thai Red Cross Society. Proceeds from the auction, which takes place during the festival, plus B600 per dinner ticket sold, will all be donated to the charity. So, loosen that belt and get ready for seven delicious days of fabulous feasting. To find out who’s cooking what, where, and when, turn to pg. 28-29 for a full listing of scheduled World Gourmet Festival 2017 events.
CRISTINA BOWERMAN
One Michelin Star
Hailing from Italy, Chef Cristina Bowerman is an inspiration in the mostly male-dominated field of haute cuisine. In 1992 she relocated to the US and completed a course in Culinary Arts (to add to her law degree). Whilst respecting the tradition in Italian food, her food is infused with creative flavours—from Texan to Puerto Rican—that she picked up from a broad range of mentors. In 2004 she returned to Italy and eventually received international recognition for her role at Glass Hostaria, and in 2010 her highly modern cuisine won the restaurant a coveted Michelin star. She is also the culinary talent behind the inventive Romeo Chef & Baker projects, which range from pop-up concept restaurants to creative underground spaces.
BOBBY CHINN Kiwi-born, with both Chinese and Egyptian heritage, Chef Bobby Chinn was educated in England and worked on both coasts of the United States before travelling the world to find a base in Vietnam. There he opened the awardwinning Restaurant Bobby Chinn, and followed with the celebrated Bobby Chinn Saigon ten years later. His passion for food and charming personality have also led to TV gigs hosting World Café Asia and Globe Trekker shows on Discovery TLC, before taking a judge role on Top Chef Middle East. He also brought modern Vietnamese cuisine to London, opening House of Ho back in 2014. He also acts as a WWF Ambassador, promoting sustainable seafood production, and since July 2014 he’s been a Tourism Ambassador for Vietnam.
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special report: world gourmet festival 2017 | CITY PULSE
COSTARDI BROTHERS
One Michelin Star
Becoming a chef was—for each of the Costardi Brothers—their destiny. Born in Vercelli, in Northern Italy, Christian, is the elder of the two brothers, and Manuel is the younger (by nine years). Working at their grandfather’s Hotel Cinzia, the pair brought the restaurant there a Michelin star in 2009, the same year the duo won the Youth Award from the Espresso Guide. Later on Christian and Manuel confirmed their important Michelin star and participated as the only Italian ambassadors at the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival, where their dinner sold out after only a few hours of being announced. More recently, in 2016, the pair became two of the founding members of the association of the ‘Ambassadors of Taste’ organization.
GUILLAUME GALLIOT
Two Michelin Stars
As a French chef of the highest calibre, Guillaume Galliot’s expertise lies in his classical French technique, where a myriad of flavours is brought into perfect harmony on every plate. Born in the town of Chambray-Les-Tours, in the Loire Valley, Galliot found his passion, and wanderlust, quite young. Working under Chef Jacques and Laurent Pourcel at the three-Michelinstarred Jardin des Sens, Galliot expanded on his culinary school training, sharpening his skills. In 2010 he created a unique culinary experience at The Tasting Room by Galliot, in the City of Dreams, Macau. More recently he has found a home at Caprice, at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, where he is ushering in a new era at that renowned, Michelin-starred restaurant.
ANATOLY KAZAKOV World’s 100 Best Restaurants In his own words, Russian-born Anatoly Kazakov decided to become a chef because, “my mom was working a lot and I was obliged to cook myself. When I was 14-years-old I decided to learn professionally how to cook better. From my first salary I bought a mobile phone which at that time (1993) was very expensive, a whole month’s salary.” With a food philosophy that can be summed up as a non-standard view on standard products, and a desire to sustainably produce the products used in his restaurant—especially ingredients from his home country—this innovative talent has been achieving wide acclaim across the globe. He is currently at Selfie restaurant, in Moscow, where he shares kitchen duties with star chef Vladimir Mukhin.
MIGUEL LAFFAN
One Michelin Star
Portuguese-born Miguel Laffan developed a passion for food from a young age. He took the opportunity to travel abroad to fine-tune his craft, working in Michelin-starred kitchens of Fortaleza do Guincho and Le Clous de la Violette in France, before gaining experience in Brazil and Spain. Subsequently, he led teams in boutique hotels in Funchal and Madeira before finding a kitchen to call home in Alentejo. These international influences enrich his cuisine and have helped him to achieve a Michelin star for the L’AND Vineyards Luxury Resort. Part of a new wave of chefs showcasing modern Portuguese gastronomy, Chef Miguel creates imaginative dishes with the freshest ingredients, using what is available locally, and he regularly participates in prestigious international food festivals.
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AUGUST 2017 | 25
CITY PULSE | special report: world gourmet festival 2017
SHINICHIRO TAKAGI
Two Michelin Stars
Chef Shinichiro Takagi has dedicated his life to Zeniya, his family restaurant, and has grown it from a modest local eatery to an unforgettable dining experience worthy of its’ two Michelin stars. Born in Kanazawa in 1970, Takagi earned a bachelor’s degree in commercial science before moving on to study the art of Kaiseki cuisine at Kyoto Kiccho, one of Japan’s top restaurants. With a deep understanding of the art and philosophy of Japanese cuisine, he has performed as a guest chef in many international hotels and at numerous renowned culinary events—always endeavouring to spread the word about Kaga cuisine globally. In December 2016 his restaurant Zeniya was named on La Liste as one of the world’s top 1000 restaurants.
JASON TAN
One Michelin Star
Co-owner of the award-winning Corner House in Singapore—which garnered the accolade of a Michelin star and is ranked number 17 on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list—Chef Jason Tan’s rise to the top has been nothing short of meteoric. His career began at the famed Les Amis restaurant in Singapore, and he spent time at 3-Michelin-starred Robuchon a Galera (later called Robuchon au Dome) in Hotel Lisboa, Macau. Jason honed his skills further and became Executive Chef at Sky on 57 in Marina Bay Sands when he was just 30 years old. He is passionate about sustainable ingredients, and has developed a contemporary cuisine called ‘Gastro-Botanica’ that demonstrates his impressive array of quality vegetables, seafood, and meat.
TETSUYA WAKUDA
Two Michelin Stars
In 1982, with a limited knowledge of English, Tetsuya Wakuda arrived in Australia at the age of 22—never imagining he would one day be embraced as one of the nation’s favourite chefs. He found early success in Sydney, and in 1983 he opened Ultimo’s, followed in 1989 with his own restaurant, Tetsuya’s. Much later, in late 2000, Tetsuya refurbished the heritage-listed site at 529 Kent Street to create his dream restaurant, complete with dining rooms overlooking an exquisite Japanese garden. In 2010, he embarked upon an exciting culinary venture in Singapore, and his restaurant Waku Ghin (at Marina Bay Sands) received the same exceptional reviews. In addition to his restaurants, he has an acclaimed cookbook and an expanding range of gourmet products.
JOCK ZONFRILLO Australia’s Top 50 Restaurants Born in Scotland, Jock Zonfrillo gained experience early on with iconic chefs such as Marco Pierre White. After working in London and Sydney, he opened his own restaurant in Cornwall, but in the year 2000 he returned to Australia. Here he began exploring the Aboriginal culture, philosophy, and the culinary traditions of the country. After moving to Adelaide and founding both Restaurant Orana and Restaurant Blackwood, he was approached by the Discovery Channel for the programme Nomad Chef, which provides a captivating insight into the cuisine and culture of some of the most remote communities on earth. All Jock’s commercial success helps aid The Orana Foundation, his own non-profit organization which preserves and evolves Australian food culture and assists indigenous enterprise.
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special report: world gourmet festival 2017 | CITY PULSE
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A sampling of the eye-popping signature dishes from this year’s line-up of superstar chefs: 1. Tetsuya Wakuda; 2. Cristina Bowerman; 3. Guillaume Galliot; 4. The Costardi Brothers; 5. Miguel Laffan; 6. Jock Zonfrillo; 7. Bobby Chinn; 8. Jason Tan; 9. Shinichiro Takagi. bangkok101.com
AUGUST 2017 | 27
CITY PULSE | special report: world gourmet festival 2017
World Gourmet Festival 2017: Calendar of Chef Events CHRISTINA BOWERMAN
THE COSTARDI BROTHERS
Event
Dinner
Event
Dinner
Venue
Biscotti
Venue
Biscotti
Date
4-5 September, 2017
Date
8-9 September, 2017
Time
7pm for Pre-Drink, 7:30pm Dinner begins
Time
7pm for Pre-Drink, 7:30pm Dinner begins
Price
B7,100
Price
B7,100
Chef at: Glass Hosteria (Rome, Italy)
Chefs at: Ristorante Christian E Manuel (Vercelli, Italy)
GUILLAUME GALLIOT
TETSUYA WAKUDA
Event
Dinner
Event
Dinner
Venue
Madison
Venue
Madison
Date
4-5 September, 2017
Date
8-9 September, 2017
Time
7pm for Pre-Drink, 7:30pm Dinner begins
Time
7pm for Pre-Drink, 7:30pm Dinner begins
Price
B7,100
Price
B8,500
Chef at: Caprice, at Four Seasons Hotel, Hong Kong (China)
Chef at: Waku Ghin (Singapore); Tetsuya’s (Sydney, Australia)
MIGUEL LAFFAN
SHINICHIRO TAKAGI
Event
Dinner
Event
Dinner
Venue
Biscotti
Venue
Shintaro
Date
6-7 September, 2017
Date
8-9 September, 2017
Time
7pm for Pre-Drink, 7:30pm Dinner begins
Time
7pm for Pre-Drink, 7:30pm Dinner begins
Price
B7,100
Price
B8,500
Chef at: L’AND Vineyards (Alentejo, Portugal)
Chef at: Restaurant Zeniya (Kanazawa, Japan)
JASON TAN
ANATOLY KAZAKOV
Event
Dinner
Event
Dinner
Venue
Madison
Venue
Spice Market
Date
6-7 September, 2017
Date
8-9 September, 2017
Time
7pm for Pre-Drink, 7:30pm Dinner begins
Time
7pm for Pre-Drink, 7:30pm Dinner begins
Price
B7,100
Price
B5,900
Chef at: The Corner Restaurant (Singapore)
Chef at: Restaurant Selfie (Moscow, Russia)
JOCK ZONFRILLO
BOBBY CHINN
Event
Dinner
Event
Diageo Night with Bobby Chinn & Friends
Venue
Spice Market
Venue
Aqua
Date
6-7 September, 2017
Date
9 September, 2017
Time
7pm for Pre-Drink, 7:30pm Dinner begins
Time
9pm-Midnight
Price
B5,900
Price
à la carte price
Chef at: Restaurant Orana (Adelaide, Australia)
Indicates a Michelin Star 28 | AUGUST 2017
Chef, Restaurateur, TV Personality, Cookbook Author
Schedule of events may be subject to change. Prices are subject to 10% service charge and 7% tax. bangkok101.com
special report: world gourmet festival 2017 | CITY PULSE
World Gourmet Festival 2017: Calendar of Events TAITTINGER CHAMPAGNE JOURNEY
WGF AFTERNOON TEA
Event
Champagne Bar
Event
Buffet Afternoon Tea
Venue
Lobby Lounge
Venue
Lobby Lounge
Date
4-10 September, 2017
Date
8-9 September, 2017
Time
6pm-11pm
Time
3pm-6pm
Price
B1,400 for 3 glasses
Price
B1,200
ROSÉ WINE TASTING
FRAGRANCE & FASHION
Event
Rosé Wine Tasting
Event
Fragrance & Fashion
Venue
Aqua
Venue
Pimarnman room
Date
6 September, 2017
Date
9 September, 2017
Time
4pm-6pm
Time
3pm-5pm
Price
B1,200
Price
B2,700
TAITTINGER MASTER CLASS
WORLD GOURMET FESTIVAL BRUNCH WITH BOBBY CHINN
Event
Taittinger Master Class
Event
WGF Brunch with Bobby Chinn & Friends
Venue
Lobby Lounge
Venue
Aqua, Madison and Spice Market
Date
7 September, 2017
Date
10 September, 2017
Time
4pm-6pm
Time
11:30am-3pm
Price
B2,400
Price
B4,500 alcohol package B3,500 non-alcohol package
ITALIAN NIGHT WITH NEGRONI & APEROL Event
Italian Night with Negroni & Aperol
Venue
Aqua
Date
7 September, 2017
Time
6pm-Midnight
Price
à la carte price
How To Reserve Your Seats All World Gourmet Festival 2017 events will be held at the Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel (155 Ratchadamri Rd). To find out more, or to make your reservations, call 02 126 8866 (ext. 1517-1519), or email: wgf.asia@anantara.com. Visit the website at: www.worldgourmetfestival.asia
BLUE FRIDAY WITH JOHNNIE WALKER BLUE LABEL Event
Blue Friday with Johnnie Walker Blue Label
Venue
Aqua
Date
8 September, 2017
Time
6pm-Midnight
Price
à la carte price
bangkok101.com
AUGUST 2017 | 29
CITY PULSE | out & about
Michelin Masterclass Learning tips and tricks from renowned chef Alain Passard By Laurie Cohen
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he aroma of butter and roasting vegetables washes over me the moment I step into the Issaya Cooking Studio. Behind the vast kitchen countertop, renowned French chef Alain Passard (above) stands with one hand in an apron pocket while the other twirls in the air to emphasize what may be the most important lesson of the day. Meanwhile, sous-chef Marine Hervouet is neatly slicing herbs on Passard’s right, while another assistant is checking on tarts in the two-tiered oven. There are no recipes in sight, no timers, and no measuring cups. “You have to feel the food,” says Passard. “It’s never the same twice.” Despite the multi-tasking crew around him, the celebrated chef shows no agitation. He calmly looks around the kitchen, looks up and meets our eyes, makes a passing comment to Marine, and then resumes peeling rhubarb and apples. At one point I hear him faintly humming a small tune to himself. Other students stare diligently at his hands and movements to discern technique, but I watch his expressions. How can someone so great be so humble? For those unaware of Alain Passard’s pedigree, he’s the head chef and owner of L’Arpège restaurant in Paris,
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which has maintained three Michelin stars for over two decades. He’s also the latest international muse to make himself available for Issaya Cooking Studio’s popular cooking master classes. Marine Hervouet is the chef’s right-hand-(wo) man. She is both sous-chef and acting French-English interpreter, and is an integral part of the class. I find her husky French-accented narrative endearing as she fluidly chops and browns onions, looking up once in a while to enlighten with cooking tips and anecdotes. At once, the kitchen shifts towards the other side, and Passard and Marine are standing next to a carton of eggs. The whole class follows. She lifts one egg, beckons us forward as if she’s about to reveal a great secret, and cracks a perfect circle in the top. Passard carefully takes the egg from her and dips the contents into his hand, separating the white into a small bowl, and replacing the yellow in its shell. The noisy whirl of a blender takes our attention back to Marine, who’s blending a cream mixture as scents of nutmeg and vinegar waft through the air. Passard stands before a simmering pot of water and pauses, meets our gaze, and waits for Marine to bring the bangkok101.com
CITY PULSE | out & about eggs—all with perfectly cracked tops and yellow insides. Marine carefully drops one shell into the water and we stare in awe as the shell bobs on the water like a paper boat. When they’re done, he takes a tiny spoon, digs into the eggshell and says, “You have to eat this while the bottom is hot and the top is cold,” and places a dollop of yellow yolk and white cream onto the plate in front of him. He takes another spoonful and does the same, and with the third, he shoves it into his mouth and everyone in the kitchen stands perfectly still as he slowly nods his head and utters “mmm” with an approving smile. We all laugh a little in relief, as if we’re the ones who made the dish and we hope he enjoys it.
He follows this with a subtle steamed vegetable dish—with tasty veggies freshly picked from Passard’s own garden in Paris. He drizzles honey lemon dressing onto the colourful harvest and mumbles something in French. Marine looks up and translates, “Everything is salted last,” and resumes plating. We all write it down; it is now a golden rule. Lobsters are then pulled out fresh and alive. After they’ve been boiled—on their sides, Passard’s secret method—he places them horizontally across the cutting board, and slices them into halves then quarters in perfect symmetry. Using the tip of his knife to remove the creature’s innards, he says, “Save it for later, we will make it into sauce.” And I don’t think he’s kidding; if there is one thing to take away from this Michelin maestro, it’s that he uses every scrap of ingredient in his sauces. Wearing rectangular glasses and gloves that make him look like a surgeon, Passard then sews half a duck together with half a chicken. He says he was inspired by watching ballet, in his own rendition which he calls “Corps32 | AUGUST 2017
A-Corps”. We’re all busy taking photos and jotting down his movements, but his focus is entirely on creating this delicious baby Frankenstein.
I watch as he tenderly cuts into the chicken-duck, and after cutting just three slices, he points out the juice left on the board, and waits for Marine to scoop it up with her knife and drop it into the pan of simmering herbs and vegetables. Underline and bold: The sauce is everything. As the hour nears 2pm I’m (unfortunately) in a rush to get to work, so I steal my selfie and autograph from Passard, grab my backpack, and then, just as I turn to dash, Marine pulls the finished apple-rhubarb tart out of the oven. While the top still sizzles a golden brown, she dangles a strainer of confectioner’s sugar over the tart and lightly taps her hand on the side to create snow over the apple rose garden. I make a full 180-degree turn and walk right back to the counter. Marine is heating caramel sauce, and as she’s describing the ingredients she stumbles on her English, and instead kisses the tips of her bunched fingers and throws her hand into the air. The gesture is emblematic of my reaction to every single dish Passard and his team has prepared for us today. And while the price tag of B5,900++ for a masterclass may seem steep to some, visiting Michelin level chefs of this calibre are, quite simply, a rare and exquisite treat.
ISSAYA COOKING STUDIO The Issaya Cooking Studio, led by the same team behind the well-known Thai restaurant Issaya Siamese Club, is located on the ground floor of the Central Embassy mall. The studio offers semi-regular courses from Issaya’s Chef Ian Kittichai, alongside classes featuring visiting guest chefs. To find out more about the guest chef classes and other special events, including Chef’s Table dinners, check their online calendar or contact them directly. 1453 Phloen Chit Rd. T: 02 160 5636 E: booking@issayastudio.com www.issayastudio.com
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CITY PULSE | property profile
The Hotel Salil
The Playroom
Deluxe Room
Outdoor pool by night
T
he neighbourhood known as Thong Lor (anything on, or a stone’s throw from, Sukhumvit Soi 55) is one of Bangkok’s trendiest locales. It’s also one of the city’s epicentres for fine dining, with hot spots like Bo.Lan, Soul Food Mahanakorn, Canvas, Toro, and Little Beast attracting serious food fanatics. And for anyone wanting to plan a holiday or staycation within the realm of this hallowed gourmet gauntlet, The Salil Hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 57 is an ideal suggestion. This brand new property, which just opened its doors in April of 2017, is the fourth Salil in Bangkok (there’s another one nearby on Thong Lor Soi 1—see side bar—as well as one each on Sukhumvit Sois 8 and 11). However, this new branch is something of a departure from the others, as the idea here is to create a ‘Concept Living Space’ with six simple stratagems: stay; eat; work; shop; play; and relax. 34 | AUGUST 2017
Bar Storia del Caffè The concept of “stay” is the easiest to illustrate, as the elegant 8-storey, Parisian-influenced, Art Deco-style building offers 130 units, including 28 sq.m Premier Rooms, 35 sq.m Deluxe Rooms, and a dozen One-Bedroom Suites measuring 45 sq.m. The hotel’s interior décor utilizes a lot of cool grey tones—both soothing and sophisticated—with accents of white, black, and gold, and lots of black and white marble. There’s also a bird theme flittering throughout, with lighting sconces that resemble bird cages and a different winged creature representing each floor. The rooms themselves are posh and plush, with all the modern amenities—flatscreen TVs, room safes, Wi-Fi, work station, airconditioning, padded and heated toilet seats, and more—as well as king-sized beds with gorgeous soft linens, plump pillows, and a sexy, velvety smooth diamond tufted
headboard. The two larger room models also come with a bathtub and a pantry (full-sized fridge, sink, microwave, plus plates and utensils). To “relax” the hotel offers guests an 8th floor rooftop open air swimming pool (with Jacuzzi) plus a handful of sun loungers. In order to get to the pool, guests pass through The Playroom, which is a combination library, games area, screening room, and more. The idea here is to “play”, and to make one’s self at home by considering this, and all the hotel spaces, one’s own. The “work” concept is illustrated, in part, at the medium-sized fitness room (on the 8th floor as well), but guests also have the option of utilizing the hotel’s technically well-equipped co-working spaces, conveniently located on the ground floor near the Bar Storia del Caffè, the property’s all-day dining venue. Here, we move to the concept of “eat”, and after the bangkok101.com
property profile | CITY PULSE tasty breakfast buffet for overnight guests is completed, customers can order from the café’s à la carte menu. For lunch and dinner a variety of Thai and international menu items are available, with standout dishes that include the superb Rocket Salad with Italian Pork Sausage, the delicious Grilled Salmon with Quinoa Salad, and the yummy Apple Crumble with Ice Cream dessert. There’s also plenty of
beer, wine, and creative cocktails on offer, with concoctions like the Dao Kra Jai—a mix of Cointreau, Amaretto, and lemon juice—hitting the mark well. Or, for something less potent, specialty coffees, as well as a huge selection of Mariage Frères teas, are available. The aforementioned Mariage Frères teas are available in the small boutique store located adjacent
to the lobby, which is where the “shop” concept arises. Also for sale are fragrance items from Everyday Karmakamet, and other stylish souvenirs. by Bruce Scott
The Salil Hotel
24, Sukhumvit Soi 57 Tel: 02 072 2882-4 www.thesalilhotel.com
WHAT’S GOOD IN THE HOOD: JUST A DRINK (MAYBE)
There are plenty of amazing drink spots in the Thong Lor area—some new, some hidden, and some that have stood the test of time admirably. But what Taiwanese transplant Herman Wu felt was missing from the area was a proper gin joint; a place where the emphasis was on this famed juniper juice. His interest in all things gin eventually led to the establishment of Just A Drink (Maybe), which is located on Thong Lor’s Soi 1, right beside the landmark Salil Hotel. The bar has only been open since late April but already it’s gaining a following. The shophouse interior is quite tiny, but it has a warm welcoming feel, with
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exposed brickwork on the west wall, soft lighting, low table seating in the back, and a handful of stools at the bar where customers can watch the bartenders crafting their creative cocktails. And sitting comfortably behind the bar is a selection of over 50 different gin labels, including hard to brands such as Colombo, Plymouth, Filliers, and Gin X (the latter two from Belgium). Guests who might need a bit of coaching can find inspiration in the menu, where signature cocktails—not all of which are strictly gin—are arranged on a chart that shows you in what direction they lean tastewise (smooth, sour, bitter, or sweet and fragrant). A nice starter is the
Beauty & Hendrick (B450), a mix of Hendrick’s gin, Aperol, lemon juice, tonic, and soda, all garnished with a long thin slice of cucumber. And even the tonic water isn’t just your run of the mill brand, as this signature drink uses Thomas Henry Cherry Blossom Tonic for a much more memorable taste. A more traditional G&T can be had when ordering the Old Broker (B350), but there’s still a twist to be had, as the namesake Broker’s Gin is combined with Fever Tree Premium Indian Tonic and St. Germain Elderflower Liquer (and garnished with a few purple pomegranate seeds). However, the martini purists out there—of which I count myself as a card-carrying member—will love The Vesper (B390), a James Bond-inspired marriage of Tanqueray gin, Stolichnaya vodka, and La Quintinye Vermouth Royal Blanc. Garnished with a lemon twist it’s “class in a glass”. The bar also doles out several variations on the classic Negroni, but if you want to stray from the gin-based concoctions the Sazerac (B450) is a heady mix of Rittenhouse rye whiskey, H by Hine VSOP cognac, Peychaud’s bitter and grapefruit bitter, topped off with syrup and a spritz of La Maison Fontaine absinthe. After one of these you’ll be saying “just a drink… definitely!” by Bruce Scott
Just A Drink (Maybe)
44/3, Thonglor Soi 1 Tel: 02 023 7285 Open: Tue-Sun, 5pm-1pm www.facebook.com/justadrinkmaybe
AUGUST 2017 | 35
SNAPSHOTS | insight
Illustrations from artist Sutee Kunavichayanont's "Half Truth" series 36 | AUGUST 2017
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insight | SNAPSHOTS
O
On Thai Traits
ften viewed in a positive light, Thais are all about sanuk (fun), saduak (convenience), and sabai (comfort). As creatures of comfort, we undeniably love all the light-hearted things which are parts of our joie-de-vivre. But beyond the superficiality of Thais’ friendly smiles, we are full of contrasts and contradictions. In the new millennium, Thais’ traits have evolved to survive among the fittest. Thai characteristics and personality are the products of our environment, moulded through centuries via our geography, climate, environment, social norms, values, traditions, religions, political regimes, foreign influences, etc. Although these factors may give clues as to why we behave in certain ways, most visitors find Thais’ hearts and minds quite conflicting. So our merits and foibles can be observed through Buddhism and daily behaviours. With respect to Buddhist teachings and codes of conducts, many misdeeds we hear about everyday refute the simple Five Precepts. First, the precept “Do not take the lives of others” seems to be completely ignored when we see tabloid news full of guts and gore, coldblooded murders, and gunmen cheaply hired for assassinations. Second, “Do not take others’ possessions” is contradicted by the glut of corruption,
Tom’s Two Satang
Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he gives his own unique take on Thailand and its capital. Each month he tackles a different aspect of the local culture–from art and festivals to 21st-century trends– in a lighthearted yet learned manner. bangkok101.com
bribes, and theft in all forms. Third, “Do not engage in improper sexual misconduct” doesn’t matter when pleasures can be fulfilled by premarital sex, extramarital affairs, prostitution, and a society full of “friends with benefits”. Fourth, “Do not make false statements” has to compete with all the lies, gossip, propaganda, alternative facts, and half-truth marketing schemes. Fifth, “Do not be intoxicated” cannot stop the inundation of alcohol, tobacco, and drugs at every corner. Peculiarly, although Thais are superstitious and fatalistic, we are not afraid of committing sins. Perhaps, we tolerate too much. Like many cultures, Thais prefer comforting lies to unpleasant truths. Being polite and ghreng jai (considerate and deferential), we avoid confrontations and would rather compromise than create conflicts. This can be summed up in one word: hypocrisy. We alternate between our public and private personae. Behind the wais and the smiles, many are not as unaffected as they seem. To the general public, we are cool-hearted, easy-going, and happy-go-lucky, but in reality it’s every man for himself. These contrasts can be observed in three different situations. Formal vs. Casual: As much as we love pomp and circumstance, we are laid-back and carefree due to the sanuk mentality. In formal milieu, social hierarchy guides us through etiquette to conform according to rank and status. However, in familial settings our decorum becomes more relaxed and our attitude shifts and makes way for contempt, negligence, and tardiness. Witnessed on several occasions, guests or attendants would talk during speeches at weddings and ceremonies or during sermons at funerary wakes. Seemingly unserious, it shows lack of respect. Artistically, Thais have defined a rare taste and displayed how elegant our culture is in beautiful architecture of palaces and temples and other refined creations. However, our garbage and waste management shows the world how casual and disrespectful we treat the environment. This has caused several detrimental incidents in
recent years, such as floods and fires. Compassion vs. Selfishness: Known for our nahm jai (generosity) coupled with Buddhist morals and ethics, we are compassionate and tolerant to many aspects of life. But unbeknownst to the world, we can be very selfish. A simple case in point is the notorious traffic jam. Like Dr. Jeckyll transforming into Mr. Hyde, many Thais become maniacs behind the wheel, as we push, rush, take over lanes, and speed. Without sounding too pious, patience is not a virtue during road rage. We and our destinations are of the utmost priority. Interestingly, Thais have finally learned how to queue. For decades waiting in line was a big problem, but in the modern mass transit systems Thais are now lining up nicely. However, when using an escalator, standing to one side has yet to be taught. Detachment vs. Greed: Buddhism ultimately teaches us to let go of attachments such as egos, possessions, and external stimuli. We should focus on the happiness within, but looking at materialism in modern Thai society the question is: How much is too much? Megaprojects and multi-purpose complexes mushroom all over cities like Bangkok and Chiang Mai, and as basic and functional infrastructures, they serve their objectives very well. Nonetheless, how many skyscrapers, condominiums, and shopping malls do we actually need? Defying logic, some may not think about these as greed because they are deceptively packaged and presented to hide less attractive effects such as traffic congestion and pollution. Because Thais love showing off, the false value of conspicuous consumption has become normative, and exponentially expanded into the digital realm. Our traits are the reflections of our society. They will keep fascinating sociologists and psychologists and also ourselves. Sunthorn Phu, a Thai poet in the early 19th century honoured by UNESCO for his literary works, allegorized that human psyches are even more wicked and twisted than the vines. And these confused minds make us all too human. AUGUST 2017 | 37
SNAPSHOTS | bizarre thailand
Nang Nak
Thailand's most enduring ghost story has been retold in more than 20 feature films By Jim Algie
T
he ghost of a woman who dies in childbirth—a phi tai hong thong klom—is regarded as the most fearsome of all phantoms in Thailand. In a scene from Nang Nak, the famous Thai horror movie based on the country’s most enduring ghost story, a terrified widower and a group of Buddhist monks are sitting on the floor of a temple chanting mantras to protect themselves when drops of water begin falling on them. They all look up to see the man’s dead wife standing upside-down on the ceiling of the temple, glowering at them while dripping sweat.
38 | AUGUST 2017
At the ‘Temple of Mother Nak’ off Sukhumvit Road, where many believe her spirit still resides, a Thai man pointed out to me a strange indentation on the ceiling of the main shrine, declaring that this was the place where Nak once stood. Long before the Siamese even had surnames, the real Nak was supposedly born here in the middle of the 19th century. The village of Phra Khanong, once a patchwork of rice paddies crisscrossed with canals—some of which have still not been paved over— later became a district of the capital. As the legend and the 1999 film go,
her husband Mak goes off to fight the Burmese, leaving his pregnant wife behind. When they are reunited, Nak shows him their newborn son. But Mak is unable to understand why she is so aloof and keeps rejecting his overtures to make love. A few scenes later, when the couple are making love on the floor, the scene is edited together with a flashback of Nak dying while giving birth in the old Siamese way—sitting on the floor, her arms tied above her head, as beads of blood drip through the floorboards on to the head of a water buffalo tethered below the bangkok101.com
bizarre thailand | SNAPSHOTS house. Never mind the supernatural sex that left audiences around the world gasping and murmuring “He’s sleeping with a ghost and doesn’t even know it!”. The scene was remarkable for the way it contained an entire revolution on the Buddhist Wheel of the Law: birth, death, and rebirth. Such deaths were common in Nak’s day. In the film and the rural legend, Nak goes on a killing spree to keep the other villagers from exposing her secret to her husband. After watching her frightful and tender performance on-screen it was a shock to see that, in real life, the cinematic reincarnation of the country’s most famous ghost was a teenaged college girl with spiky tendrils of frosted blonde hair. Only 19 at the time, Inthira ‘Sai’ Chareonepura radiated none of the menace she showed on-screen. Sitting in her school uniform of a black skirt and white blouse, beaming with smiles and politely answering questions, she could have been one of a million university students in the country. Sai noted that Nak’s story has been made into more than 20 different films, but the 1999 version was different because it focused more on the couple’s relationship. “The previous versions of Nang Nak are more about scary things and horror—not the love story,” she said. “But the director [Nonzee Nimibutr]
Bizarre
Thailand
Author Jim Algie has parlayed his experiences living in Thailand into books like the collection of short stories entitled The Phantom Lover and Other Thrilling Tales of Thailand (2014), and his newest novel On the Night Joey Ramone Died. Check out www.jimalgie.club for more.
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wanted to make this a love story about Nak’s faithfulness to her husband as she waits for him. Even after she dies, she’s still worried about him and comes back to take care of him.” That’s true. What made this version a cut above the usual slasherand-horror fare is the full-bodied romance. The climax is especially heart-rending when the couple is caught in the middle of a rainstorm while the Buddhist monk who moonlights as a ghost-hunter attempts to trap Nak’s spirit forever. Even the most oblique and subtle questions about the infamous sex scene turned Sai into a blushing schoolgirl. “Yes, giving birth in the old way... that wasn’t me. They had a body double,” she said, before breaking into a fit of laughter. Since this was the most controversial part of the entire film,
it certainly required an explanation. Further questions were answered by more giggles. So I asked her pointblank: “So was that really you rolling around on the floor?” You would’ve thought this was the funniest joke she had ever heard. Composing herself after another fit of hysterics, Sai managed to say, “Yes, that was me,” before explaining that many previous productions of the film were plagued with problems thought to have occult causes. That’s why cinemas once set up shrines to appease her spirit. One old movie house that did not follow this ritual was razed to the ground by a freak fire. As was, and still is the tradition, the whole cast and crew paid homage to her restless spirit before they shot the film, at the shrine behind the temple off Sukhumvit Soi 77 (officially known as Wat Mahabut).
This is an excerpt from Jim Algie's book Bizarre Thailand: Tales of Crime, Sex and Black Magic, which chronicles the strange, surreal and supernatural sides of Thailand, as well as the country’s weirdest museums and tourism attractions.
AUGUST 2017 | 39
SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok
Teak Stilts to Urban Towers
Chiang Mai’s 137 Pillars hotel establishes a Bangkok presence By Joe Cummings/CPA Media
O
ne of the legacies of Chiang Mai’s late 19th-century heyday as a hub of Thailand’s teak trade was Bain House, the impressive wooden headquarters for the Borneo Company as well as the residence for its company director, Scotsman William Bain. Among Chiang Mai residents it was also known as ‘137 Pillars House’, for the number of solid teak logs supporting the tropicalcolonial house well above ground in traditional Lanna style. A few years ago, Bain’s descendants renovated and repurposed the elegant home as the centrepiece of a boutique hotel that’s now one of the best places to stay east of the Ping River in Chiang Mai, especially for those exploring the historic Wat Ket district along the river. In April 2017, the Wongpanlert clan, the Thai owners of 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai, opened a branch 4 0 | AUGUST 2017
hotel in Bangkok. When I stopped by 137 Pillars Suites & Residences for a visit last month, I half-expected to see a similarly historic wooden structure, but what I found instead was an ultramodern, custom-built hotel tower in the heart of Thong Lor. Once I began touring the sizeable building, though, I begin to feel the Chiang Mai spirit, even in this urban monolith. To begin with, the reception area boasts a huge multi-media panel by Panya Vijinthanasarn, a well-known painter who attained National Artist status in 2014. Although Panya hails from Prachuap Khiri Khan in central Thailand, many of his works bear the influence of Lanna temple murals, including this one, a 15 million baht work entitled “Path of Auspiciousness”. Spheres of cobalt blue, goldleaf, amber, and pale green combine with animal, human, and divine imagery to present a modernist interpretation of
tribhumi, the three planes of existence in Theravada Buddhist cosmology: Desire, Form, and Formlessness. In Lanna temples of Northern Thailand, this is a common theme often found on the back wall of the main sanctuary, behind the principal Buddha image. Other contemporary Thai art is sprinkled throughout the public spaces. Among the more notable works is a series of abstract paintings in the Leonowens Club, the 27th-floor lounge and breakfast dining venue. These bold creations were painted by Ithipol Thangchalok, who is one of Thailand’s premier specialists in mixed media and graphics and an art professor at Silpakorn University, Thailand’s top fine arts institute. The lounge’s name pays homage to Chiang Mai resident Louis T. Leonowens, son of Anna Leonowens, the English governess who wrote bangkok101.com
joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS Anna and the King of Siam, a semiautobiographical book on which the Broadway show and later films The King and I were based. Louis served as a captain in the Royal Siamese Cavalry, worked for the Borneo Company, and then later established his own Louis Thomas Leonowens Company, still operating in Bangkok. Early in Bangkok’s history, he also owned the legendary Oriental Lodge, today’s Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. Jack Bain’s Bar, perched on one of the higher floors, is a tribute to William Bain’s son Jarin ‘Jack’ Bain, who lived his entire life in Chiang Mai. Affectionately known around Chiang Mai as ‘Uncle Jack’, I knew him as the curator and caretaker of a rustic museum he founded in 1999 on the grounds of Chiang Mai’s Wat Ketkaram. Housed in a former abbot’s residence, the museum houses display of quirky Lanna memorabilia along with an extensive collection of historic blackand-white photos. Jack passed away in his 90s a few years ago, but his name lives on here, as well as at Jack Bain’s Bar at 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai. In Bangkok, the bar is styled after a colonial gentlemen’s club, with plenty of wood and brass. Craft cocktails are a specialty, and for stogie-puffers, imported cigars are available in an adjacent smoking den.
Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com
Suites are found between levels 24 and 32, and divided into four categories, each named for a different kingdom in Thai history: Rattanakosin, Ayutthaya, Sukhothai, and Thonburi. All are spacious, with one- and twobedroom options ranging between 70 and 127 sq.m. Each balcony of the 34 suites features a rocking chair, day bed, and ceiling fan, another nod to Chiang Mai style. Rattanakosin Suite, the largest of the four categories, measures 127 sq.m and boasts two complete bedrooms along with a dining room, pantry, and a maxi bar with wine cellar. In all four categories, rooms feature an en-suite marble bathroom, complete with circular baths and a built-in TV. One decidedly unique feature of the hotel is an infinity pool, cantilevered seemingly into the middle of Bangkok air space from the 27th floor. Said to be the highest hotel pool in the capital, it’s easily the most visually striking. I confess to experiencing brief moments of vertigo when I first slipped into the water and swam towards seeming nothingness. Guests in the suites are assigned a 24-hour butler to help with check in and check out, as well as any other requirements. All-day à la carte breakfast is available at Leonowens Club, so you can wake up whenever you feel like it. If you’re a breakfast steak kind of person, I can highly recommend that option here. Bangkok Trading Post Bistro & Deli, found on the ground floor, offers a large, comfy dining room decorated
with compasses, telescopes, field chairs, and other gear from the age of exploration, set amid high ceilings, marble floors and wood paneling. The kitchen serves artisanal breads, jams, coffee, eggs, and specialties from Thailand and the region, as well as a full complement of pastas, pizzas, sandwiches, and other international fare. Open from 5:30am to 11pm, it has quickly become a favourite not just with guests but among neighbours and local office workers. Nimitr, a sumptuously appointed dining room on one of the upper floors boasts design by Dutch-Thai architect Faun Israsena Na Ayudhya and Belgian interior designer Sophie Bughin. The kitchen serves Asianinspired gastronomy for lunch and dinner. Ensconsced on the lower floors are 137 Pillars’ 179 residences, dedicated to long-term guests doing business in town. Studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments range from 40 to 91 sq.m and may be rented by the day, the week, or the month, as well as with bi-monthly and halfyearly contracts. Each comes with a kitchenette, washer-dryer, private terrace, and spacious living area. What else? For golfers, there’s even a putting green with a view of the city for loosening the muscles and keeping the mind in focus between executive meetings.
137 Pillars Suites & Residences 38, Sukhumvit Soi 39 Tel: 02 079 7137 www.137pillarshotels.com
AUGUST 2017 | 41
SNAPSHOTS | very thai
Tiny Pink Tissues Tabletop wipes explained
A
perennial mystery to the farang visitor is the design of the tiny pink tissue. This wisp seems ill suited to their table manners. Lodged with toothpicks in a sponsored holder of Carlsberg green or Pepsi blue, pink napkins are as much a fixture of street stalls and informal raan ahaan—food ‘shops’—as the condiment holder for pots of sugar, vinegar, dried chili, and fish sauce. Napkins, farang decorum presumes, should be big and substantial. Even if you could place the flimsy single-ply squares across a lap, the fan would blow them away. Wasteconscious farang use everdecreasing areas of one sheet, and sigh when it takes a handful of the paper to mop the puddle from the steel cup of nam cha, a diluted tea. Some test it—never twice—with a sneeze. Westerners use one doubleply serviette to manage several mealtime mishaps. Some even re-fold rumpled cloth napkins and put them back in the drawer. To spotless Thais, such antics are like wearing an unwashed shirt, a crime for which repeat-offending backpackers are often dubbed farang kii nok (bird shit Westerners). So why is the Thai tissue so tiny and so pink? The secret lies not in multiple use of a single sheet, but a different use for each sheet. For Thai needs, the size is ideal. You discard it the moment it’s dirtied. Aside from dabbing mouths, blotting spills and coping with chili’s effects on eyes and nose, Thais use them for cleaning the cutlery and crockery. The customer does this. Before they eat. Savvy diners don’t trust street stalls’ murky grey rinsing bowl, hence a (failed) Bangkok municipal plan to supply hot water washers to vendors. Food stalls sometimes have bamboo or Melamine chopsticks in sanitized wrappers, but more usually in communal hinged
> Very Thai
River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 42 | AUGUST 2017
steel boxes, along with flat-bottomed soup spoons made of steel or Melamine. The pink tissue is essential for wiping the serving spoon handle, which always slides into the food en route to the table. One sheet may come binding the spoon and fork, which are pressed from aluminium of a consistency favoured by Uri Geller. Marvel as the spoon suddenly bends! Witness food mysteriously escape the wonky fork! Gasp as its tines splay like a dancer’s fingers! Fingers were the cutlery, in days—mostly past—when banana leaf wrappings unfolded into a plate. But Thais do still eat many dishes with the hand, though always the right, since the left cleanses where the food exits. With sticky fingers to swab, demand for tissue is high, making cost an issue. Hence the colour. Ones bleached white may be too pricy for poorer vendors to afford. The dye indicates recycled paper that costs just a few baht. It’s pink because extracts of tomato and cinnabar annatto do best at disguising the speckly blemishes from recycling, a dye firm explains. A tissue maker confirms tales that some vendors use it to colour and thicken the pink fish gruel dish nam yaa. “Originally there were four colours: pink, blue, yellow and white,” says Yui, the daughter of Gris Chungsiriwat, who launched tissues in the Thai market. “But pink sold the best, as it was a lucky colour for Thai-Chinese banquets.” Back in the 1960s, paper serviettes were a hip Western-style luxury that only top restaurants could afford. Maximizing value, some vendors still separate lap-size serviettes into single-ply sheets, which they patiently cut into quarters and then fold. Labour is that cheap, money that tight, time that expendable.
Now in its expanded, updated 2nd edition, “Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture, and an influential must-read among foreigners and many Thais. Its 70 chapters and 590 photographs guide you on an unconventional Technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand truly Thai. This column is based on different chapter every month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic, and buy a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com
TRAVEL |
Majestic chedi at Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Ayutthaya Historical Park 4 4 | AUGUST 2017
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| TRAVEL
ANCIENT CAPITALS L
ocated just 85 km north of Bangkok, in the Central Plains of Thailand, sits AYUTTHAYA (full name Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya), an ancient capital and modern city in one. Founded around 1350, it was the second official capital of Siam. Ayutthaya is an island at the confluence of three waterways— the Chao Phraya River, the Lopburi River and the Pa Sak River—and for centuries this ideal location—which, in a broader scope, lies between China, India and the Malay Archipelago—made it the trading capital of Asia, and even the world. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest city in the world with a total of 1 million inhabitants. Many merchants from Europe proclaimed it as the finest city they had ever seen, with gold-laden palaces and an array of trading vessels from all over the world in its port. Unfortunately, all this came to an end when the Burmese invaded in 1767 and almost burnt the city down to the ground. Ironically, the city was named after Ayodhaya (Sanskrit for “unconquerable”), Prince Rama’s city in the Indian epic Ramayana. Today, only a few ruins from this bygone era remain, mainly from the stone temples and palaces that survived the fires. In 1991 the great cultural value of Ayutthaya’s ruins was officially recognized, and the city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today these crumbling stone edifices—housed in the AYUTTHAYA HISTORICAL PARK—attract countless visitors, but the city also offers many other diversions, including an array of excellent restaurants, drink spots, and upscale hotels to choose from. It’s also worth noting that although you can drive or take a coach bus or train to Ayutthaya from Bangkok, you can also arrive by boat. Cruise boats run up the Chao Phraya River, often stopping at KOH KRET and BANG PA-IN along the way. However, there are no scheduled Sukhothai services (just trips for tourists), and it’s a fairly lengthy trip (at least one whole day), so some of Phitsanulok the larger boats offer overnight journeys. Even older, and thus more historical than Ayutthaya, is SUKHOTHAI, a small city in lower Ayutthaya Northern Thailand which was the first Thai capital, established some time between 1238 BANGKOK and 1257. The name Sukhothai translates as “the dawn of happiness”, and it has become a hugely popular tourist destination, primarily because of the SUKHOTHAI HISTORICAL PARK which is full of ancient temple ruins and the remains of awe-inspiring monuments. Like the historic park in Ayutthaya it has also been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are no trains running from Sukhothai to Bangkok, but there are coach buses that will get you there direct—about a 5 or 6 hour drive—and there is also a private airport owned by Bangkok Airways that services the area. Visitors can also travel to nearby PHITSANULOK—about 75 km from the Sukhothai Historical Park—where there is both a train station and an airport where budget carriers offer direct flights to and from Bangkok.
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TRAVEL | see & do ayutthaya
Crumbling Beauty
Among the ruins and remains at the Ayutthaya Historical Park Words and photos by Bruce Scott
B
etween the years 1350 and 1767, Ayutthaya was the capital of Siam, which at its peak ruled over an area larger than England and France combined. Home to over a million people, the island city was one of Asia’s major trading ports and international merchants visiting from around the globe wrote of its gilded temples and treasure-laden palaces that glittered from a distance. After the Burmese sacked the city in 1767, there was a general period of instability until General Taksin, who reigned until 1782, relocated the capital of Siam to what is now Bangkok, further down the Chao Phraya River. In the years that followed after Ayutthaya continued to be a provincial 46 | AUGUST 2017
trading town, but it’s once glorious temples and palaces fell in ruin and were looted. In the 1950s the Thai Fine Arts Department began restoring the site, with major restoration work beginning in 1969. The area became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991, and today the dozens of ruins in the Ayutthaya Historical Park offer a glimpse into the city’s glorious past. The property is quite large—715 acres—so renting a bicycle or hiring a tuk-tuk driver is advised. A two-day excursion allows for a more intensive visit, and also lets you admire the ruins lit up at night. The more famous sites each charge a small entrance fee, however a one-day pass, which covers the six major sites, can be purchased for around B220. bangkok101.com
see & do ayutthaya | TRAVEL
A definite park highlight is Wat Phra Si Sanphet, a temple used exclusively for royal ceremonies. The three massive conical chedis, displaying classic Ceylonese design, are all that remain, although a gigantic Buddha statue—measuring 16 metres high, and covered in 250 kg of gold—once stood within the royal chapel (it was taken and melted down by the Burmese when they ransacked the city). Nearby to Wat Phra Si Sanphet is Wiharn Phra Mongkol Bophit, a sanctuary hall that is home to Thailand’s biggest bronze Buddha, measuring 17 metres high. This is an “active” temple compound, and throughout
the day many people visit to worship the Buddha image. Meanwhile, Wat Phra Mahathat, built in 1374, is famous for both its prang (Khmer-style tower) and its mysterious Buddha head entwined in tree roots (see boxed text). Just to the north of this temple lies Wat Ratchaburana, which was built in the 15th century, while to the west sits Wat Thammikarat, dominated by a central chedi surrounded by guardian lion sculptures. There are dozens more beautiful crumbling ruins on the island to see, each adding another chapter to the story of ancient Ayutthaya.
MYSTERY OF THE BUDDHA HEAD At the Ayutthaya Historical Park there is one iconic image that appears time and again on postcards and in guide-books—a Buddha head tangled within the roots of a Banyan tree. It’s an extremely sacred site, located not far from the entrance of Wat Mahathat, but nobody knows for certain how the Buddha came to be so firmly entwined within the tree’s exposed roots. One theory is that the tree simply grew around the Buddha head during the period when the temple lay abandoned and overgrown. A second, and more detailed theory suggests that a thief moved the Buddha head away from the main temple to hide it. This may have happened in the early years of the 20th century when it was recorded that one of the remaining areas of the temple collapsed and this led to treasure hunters rummaging through the area. After the stone Buddha head was moved away from the ruined main temple, the thief either never returned for his prize, or felt remorseful, or simply couldn’t move the heavy object any further beyond the walls that surround the temple. Either way, the abandoned stone Buddha head was left by the wall where it can be seen today nestled in the snaking tree roots that have grown around it. The presence of a guard and a small chain-link barrier around the head are there to remind visitors of the fact that touching the head is not permitted. Photos are allowed, but to be respectful these should be taken from a kneeling position.
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TRAVEL | see & do ayutthaya
Beyond the Historical Park
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon
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he vast Ayutthaya Historical Park (see pg. 46) is certainly sprawling enough to keep visitors occupied for a full day, if not more, but there are many other spots of interest outside of the main island. To the southeast lies Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon, or the Great Monastery of Auspicious Victory. The name refers to the battle of 1592 in which King Naresuan defeated the Burmese Army at Nong Sarai by killing the Burmese Crown Prince in single-handed combat on elephant back. However, parts of this historic structure, which is still an active temple, are said to date back to the 14th century. The main bell-shaped chedi is one of the primary landmarks of Ayutthaya, standing 60-metres-high and often draped in bright orange silk (although not always). Stairs on the east side lead up to the first terrace, and continue inwards to the domed chamber where the relics were contained (part of the original structure). In the outside gallery, around the base of the main chedi, rows of identical Buddha statues— newly sculpted in order to replace those which collapsed over time—sit solemnly along the walls of the square enclosure (sometimes draped 4 8 | AUGUST 2017
Wat Phanan Choeng
in saffron robes and sometimes not). Another item of interest is the reclining Buddha image in the northeast corner of the grounds. Another active temple worth seeking out is Wat Phanan Choeng, located south of the main island close to where the Chao Phraya and Pa Sak rivers merge. The main attraction here is the 19-metre-high gilded Buddha, which dates back to 1324
and sits inside a high-ceilinged wiharn surrounded by 84,000 small Buddha images lining the walls. People come here daily for a ceremony in which they cover their heads with the end of the big Buddha’s saffron robe—a ceremony that other temples normally only do on major holidays. Immediately to the west of the main island lie the charred remains of Wat Chaiwatthanaram, a temple bangkok101.com
see and do ayutthaya | TRAVEL
Wat Chaiwatthanaram
ominous story behind it, as it holds the remains of Prince Thammathibet who was whipped to death and cremated after he was discovered to be having an affair with one of the King’s concubines. The now lopsided chedi—constructed between 1733 and 1758—holds his mortal remains. However, not all historic attractions in Ayutthaya are of Thai heritage. There are still remnants of the Dutch, Portuguese, and Japanese settlements in the region, and a strong Muslim community still exists to this day. But one of the prettiest European-
influenced landmarks still standing is St. Joseph’s Church, located to the southwest of the main island, right on the banks of the river. It was first built during the reign of King Narai, in 1666, as requested by the missionaries headed by Bishop Lambert de la Motte (whose remains lie interred within). It was destroyed during the 1767 Burmese invasion and lay in ruins for nearly a century. Restoration began in 1831 and was completed in 1847, adding more Romanesque details, including a series of attractive stained glass windows.
A DIFFERENT KIND OF HISTORY
St. Joseph’s Church
originally constructed in 1630 by King Prasat Thong (the first temple of his reign). The structure’s name literally means the Temple of Long Reign and Glorious Era, and it was designed in Khom style, which was popular at that time. There is a central 35-metre-high prang dominating the site, and along the wall the deteriorating blackened remains of 120 sitting Buddha statues sit ominously. The whole place has an eerie, spooky vibe, and one chedi in particular has a very bangkok101.com
Located in a blue and white house near Wat Banomyong, the Million Toy Museum—which opened in 2008—is the creation of Krirk Yoonpun, an award-winning children’s book illustrator and professor of children’s literature at Silakarinviroj University. The idea was inspired by a visit to the Kitahara Tin Toy Museum in Japan, in 1982, after which the professor spent the next few decades collecting toys for his own museum. The ground floor showcases Thai toys dating back to the Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, and Rattanakosin periods, and the oldest toy can be traced back to 1880. On the floor above are vintage toys from all over the globe, as well as plenty of modern superhero action figures. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday, and on public holidays, from 9am to 4pm. Admission is B50 for adults, and B20 for children. www.milliontoymuseum.com
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TRAVEL | focus on ayutthaya
Masters & Disciples Global Muay Thai fighters meet annually in Ayutthaya to pay respect to their teachers, past and present
Photo courtesy of Banchamek Gym
Words by Joe Cummings/CPA Photos by Jessica Boisson
Photo by Joe Cummings
W
earing red boxing trunks, a white ceremonial headband (the mongkhon, which Thai fighters wear into the muaythai ring before the first round begins), matching sacred armbands, and white hemp fist wraps, international champ Buakaw Banchamek (left) works through a dramatic display of muaythai moves, brown muscles rippling under the klieg lights. As a sea of fighter disciples on the huge meadow echo the moves in silent respect, virtually the only sound heard is the whirring of camera
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drones overhead. It’s an inspiring moment for someone used to the noisy streets of Bangkok Every March, nearly 1,500 fighters from more than 50 nations around the world gather in the ancient ruins of Ayutthaya to pay homage to the masters and inherited wisdom of muaythai, Thailand’s legendary martial arts tradition. Held on the grassy grounds of the venerated Wat Mahathat temple ruins in the centre of Ayutthaya, the three-day event centers around the final day’s wai khru, a ceremony in which disciple fighters from far and wide pay respect to their teachers, both past and present. The wai khru culminates in a group performance of the elaborate, dance-like combination of muaythai moves called ram muay. This year the ram muay was attended by Thailand’s greatest living ring veterans. Along with Buakaw Banchamek, I spot Samart Payakaroon, Anuwat Kaewsamrit, and bangkok101.com
focus on ayutthaya | TRAVEL Saengmani Umkatongchiangmaiyim. Buakaw himself, often cited as the greatest muaythai champ ever (and as of May 2017, ranked the number 6 lightweight in the world across all martial arts by Combat Press), leads the ram muay from atop a small dais near the main stage where grandmasters were seated. Back during the Ayutthaya Kingdom’s 400-year reign, when muaythai was a staple of Thai military culture, wai khru ceremonies were held annually. But after the sacking of Ayutthaya in the late 18th century, and the subsequent shift of the royal Thai capital to Bangkok, muaythai training splintered into various factions.
Photo by Banchamek Gym
These were re-united, at least in theory, following the founding of the International muaythai Federation (IMTF) in 1994, when the annual wai khru was revived at Bangkok’s National Stadium. Training and teaching standards were further united and codified with the formation of the Kru muaythai Association (KMTA) in 2003. This year hails the 13th edition of the annual ceremonies, as organized by the KMTA with support from the Tourism Authority of Thailand and the city of Ayutthaya. The association oversees khru muaythai (muaythai teachers) belonging to IMTF, working through nine total levels, from assistant teacher to teacher, master to grandmaster, and finally senior grandmaster. As fighters attain each of the nine levels, they receive a different colour mongkhon in a system roughly analogous to coloured belts in karate, taekwondo, and other East Asian martial arts.
The similarity to other Asian martial arts systems ends there. In muaythai, a 10-point arsenal of fists, elbows, knees, shins, and feet—hardened by years of full-contact bangkok101.com
training—batter away at virtually every point of the opponent’s body. The Thai word muay translates loosely into English as “boxing” or “martial art”, but the term derives from Sanskrit mavya, meaning “bind”, a reference to the binding of the fists with hemp (now replaced by padded boxing gloves for stadium fights), as well as the ceremonial bindings of the head and arm. More formally known as Phahuyut—from the PaliSanskrit bhahu (arm) and yodha (combat), Thailand’s ancient martial art is arguably one of the kingdom’s most striking national icons. Overflowing with colour and ceremony, as well as exhilarating moments of clenchedteeth action, the best matches serve up such a blend of skill and tenacity that one is tempted to view the spectacle as emblematic of Thailand’s centuries-old devotion to independence in a region where most other countries fell under the European colonial yoke. Ayutthaya’s ancient temple sites are an appropriate venue for today’s wai khru, since Thais heavily identify the martial art today with the history of what was once the world’s grandest city, as European traders described Ayutthaya. London and Paris, at the time, were said to be mere villages in comparison.
The earliest known Thai written reference to muaythai, found inscribed on palmleaf chronicles in Chiang Mai during the earlier Lanna era (1296-1558 AD), mentions a ferocious style of unarmed combat that decided the fate of Thai kings. But most of what is known about the early history of Thai boxing comes to us from Burmese and Cambodian accounts of warfare with Ayutthaya during the 15th and 16th centuries. When the Burmese first invaded the royal capital in the mid-16th century, a nine-year-old boy named Naret was among the many Siamese prisoners taken back to Hamsavati (Pegu, or modern-day Bago, Myanmar) as hostages. The boy showed a keen interest in martial arts, and after he defeated the kingdom’s best Burmese fighter in a public bout at the age of 15, the Burmese court of King Bayinnaung allowed him to return to Ayutthaya. When Naret later found himself crowned as King Naresuan (1555-1605) in the Ayutthaya royal court, he made muaythai a required component of training for all Thai soldiers. With his armies thus trained, Naresuan successfully led the Siamese to independence from Hamsavati rule. A fighter to the last, the king died in AUGUST 2017 | 51
TRAVEL | focus on ayutthaya combat repelling yet another Burmese invasion during which he slew Crown Prince Bayin, the son of King Bayinnaung, on elephant-back. Another Ayutthaya king, Sri Sanphet VIII, further promoted Thai boxing as a national sport by encouraging prize fights and the development of training camps in the early 18th century. At this point muaythai began making the transition from a system of defense practiced only by the military to a spectator sport that could be enjoyed by all. In these early days, massive wagers and bouts to the death were not uncommon. Combatants’ fists were wrapped in thick horsehide for maximum impact with minimum knuckle damage. In grudge matches between particularly keen rivals, the hands were bound with gluesoaked cotton or hemp and then dipped in ground glass to inflict further injury. Tree bark and seashells were used to protect the groin from lethal kicks. Sri Sanphet VIII himself became an incognito participant in many of the matches during the early part of his reign, earning the nickname the ‘Tiger King’ for his ferocity and daring. The first commoner to earn lasting distinction as a fighter was Khanom Tom, one of 30,000 Thais taken prisoner during another attack on Ayutthaya in 1767. At a large Buddhist festival held in Yangon the following year, the Siamese pugilist was invited to represent the prisoners of war in a round of public boxing matches. Before a crowd of hundreds, Khanom Tom unleashed a barrage of bare fists, feet, knees, and elbows that polished off his Burmese opponent in a matter of minutes. The Alaungpaya royal court, hoping to save face, sent one Burmese boxer after another into the ring against the Siamese, only to see each one roundly defeated. After 10 consecutive victories, the Bago royal court was so impressed that Khanom Tom, along with many other Siamese prisoners, were set free and allowed to return to Siam. Khanom Tom’s heroic performance is said to have taken place on March 17th, and now, over two centuries later, that date is honoured as National Muay Thai Day with the annual wai khru. Beyond the actual ceremony that takes place in Ayutthaya on that date, attendees enjoy a daily roster of live muaythai matches in which fighters from all over the world do battle in a stadium-standard muaythai ring. I witness tremendous action from the ringside press pit, including a match in which Thai pugilist Namtarn Por successfully defends her championship belt against Swedish native Teresa Wintermyr, a model-turned-fighter now based in Phuket (both pictured above). Meanwhile another section of meadow is devoted to tents where food vendors dish out tasty specialties from all around Thailand. Another tent section is reserved for several local khru sak yan, masters who practice the art of Thai sacred 52 | AUGUST 2017
tattoos using mai sak, the traditional metal needleand-shaft that applies blue-black ink through the epidermis by hand. At the tattoo tents, I watch as fighter-disciples perched on low stools receive designs believed to offer protection and power in the muaythai ring. Most are given smaller designs but a few master fighters are inked with Hanuman the Hindu monkey god, an icon for those who would emulate his courage, fortitude, and exceptional fighting skills. Back in the Ayutthaya era, Hanuman tattoos were done using actual monkey blood in the belief that this would help Hanuman’s possess the fighter’s body in combat. Nowadays sterilized tattoo ink is used.
Later, photographer Jessica Boisson and I pay a visit to Ajahn Kob, one of Ayutthaya’s most famous local sak yan masters. Kob, a direct disciple of the late Luang Pu Nai, a severe-looking monk revered for his powerful tattoo magic, lives near the edge of a large, peaceful lotus pond on the northern edge of town. A few years ago Ajahn Gob inked the underside of my left forearm with a relatively small, geometric yantra invoking forgiveness from others. Today I balance that blessing with one of similar size, and in the same spot, on my right arm. This time I receive the hermit’s walking stick, believed to impart wisdom and decisiveness. It must be working, because I’ve already decided, a year in advance, to attend next year’s muaythai wai khru in Ayutthaya. bangkok101.com
required reading | TRAVEL
Ayutthaya Illuminated New book brings to light an important chapter in Siamese history By Luc Citrinot
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he recently published A History of Ayutthaya: Siam in the Early Modern World—from historians Chris Baker and Pasuk Phongpaichit—reassesses the history of Ayutthaya and shows how the city had been, until its destruction in 1767, the most vibrant centre of Thai cultural and economic development. “There is a lot of misconception regarding the history of Ayutthaya,” explains co-author Chris Baker. “For Thai people, Sukhothai appears like a fortunate time… the ‘Dawn of Happiness’. By contrast, Ayutthaya is often associated with the decadence of the Siamese Kingdom, an interpretation which has a lot to do with a post-nationalist interpretation of Thai history. “With a range of new documents, it is time to reinterpret and understand Ayutthaya history in a new light,” he goes on to say. “We looked not only at documents from Siam, and of foreign visitors to Siam, but also chronicles coming from China, the Malay archipelago, and The authors from the Portuguese, in order to better understand the evolution of Ayutthaya.” A History of Ayutthaya is indeed an important reference for anyone with a keen interest in the history of Siam. According to Baker, no book in English on Ayutthaya has been released for at least 30 years (and even longer for books in Thai). “We look to Ayutthaya as the start of Siam’s entry into the modern world,” explains Baker. The book is one of the most comprehensive even written about this ancient capital city. It contains seven different chapters, covering Ayutthaya from its origins (and even before), up to its collapse following the city siege by Burmese troops, and onwards to its present day legacy. And the best part is that the book can be read like a novel, due to the fascinating development of the former capital. The first chapters look at the emergence of Ayutthaya, born from the necessity of doing trading with China. “Ayutthaya’s prosperity rises from its location, upstream on the Chao Praya River,” Baker points out. “Being away from the sea, and from attacks by pirates, Ayutthaya appears as a safe place for trading, especially with China. In turn, Ayutthaya generated a commercial trade society.” The rise of Ayutthaya coincided with the beginning of the 15th century. In the chapter, ‘An Age of Warfare’, the book describes how Ayutthaya send armies to fight against the neighbouring kingdoms of Angkor, Chiang Mai, and Tavoy. “Making war with their neighbours was not about territory, but about resources,” explains Baker. “We have bangkok101.com
many descriptions of the transfer to Ayutthaya of textiles, gold, the most beautiful women and, of course, elephants. We know that in 1497, Ayutthaya had 500 elephants; in 1551, the city had a population of 10,000 elephants. And the animals were a sign of opulence.” Wars brought an immense wealth to Ayutthaya city, and the kings fostered a new commercial spirit. The energy that went into war was transformed into an energy to generate money, as described in the chapter entield ‘Peace and Commerce’. We learn in this chapter how the city built its wealth, and how monarchs of the time turned into formidable traders, with monopolies on various goods. The triumphant 17th century for Ayutthaya translated into establishing diplomatic relations with many countries around the world, such as France. In addition, many foreigners at that time settled in the town, including Persians—who played an important role not only in the economy but also in the arts. The golden age of Ayutthaya reaches its peak in 1688. From that date until 1767—the year of the city’s ransacking—Ayutthaya became increasingly isolated and its economy declined significantly. “However, this is where we reassess Ayutthaya’s history,” Baker is quick to add. “We know that if economic conditions worsened, it was still a brilliant cultural society, expressed through literature, dramas, paintings, and the construction of temples. We see also the emergence of a society with socially responsible citizens.” The book looks also at the role played by both the monarchy and Buddhism. In the end, Ayutthaya’s wealth made it a target for attacks. The Burmese started the siege of the city to seize its wealth. When they finally took over Ayutthaya they decided to burn the city up to the ground. The city never recovered from its destruction until the end of the 19th century. But its spirit was transferred to the new capitals, first in Thonburi, and then to modern day Bangkok. But that’s a whole other story. A History of Ayutthaya: Siam in the Early Modern World by Chris Baker and Pasuk Phongpaichit (Cambridge University Press) retails for B1,250 and is available in Bangkok exclusively at the bookshop of the Siam Society, 131 Asok Rd (Sukhumvit Soi 21). AUGUST 2017 | 53
TRAVEL | heritage
Bang Pa-In
Royal retreat retains an air of romance By Luc Citrinot
Aisawan Thiphya
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ocated 60 km north of Bangkok, and 28 km south of the famed Ayutthaya Historical Park, stands Bang Pa-In, a glorious palace that definitely proves that Thai people can also be romantic. The first mention of Bang Pa-In is found in the chronicles of Dutch merchant Jeremias van Vliet. He reports about an illegitimate son of King Ekathosarot (1605-1611), who was shipwrecked on an island along the Chao Phraya River. He met a woman living on the island and from their union a son was born—who eventually became Chief Minister and then monarch by usurping the throne. Under the name King Prasat Thong (1629-1656), this new monarch
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decided to build a monastery, and later a palace, with construction starting around 1632. The devotion of the King towards this small piece of land—the birthplace of his mother— changed the destiny of the island, which eventually became an official royal residence. Bang Pa-In palace did not escape the terrible fate of the nearby royal capital Ayutthaya. Attacked and ransacked by Burmese troops in 1767, the palace was left in shambles and abandoned. It remained liked this for almost a century, until King Mongkut (Rama IV) decided, around the year 1850, to rebuild part of the palace. Bang Pa-In was thus back on the map, but it was under King
Chulalongkorn (Rama V) that the palace would experience the most dramatic transformation. King Rama V’s love for European architecture gave to the monarch the idea of turning the entire royal compound into a summer residence, inspired mostly by summer castles existing in England or France. Gardens became the heart of the new palace concept with residences for the King and his consorts being constructed around the newly created green spaces, with manicured lawns and statues inspired from the palace of Versailles in France, and Palladian villas in Italy. Construction stretched from 1872 to 1889, and it became probably the largest collection of Europeanbangkok101.com
heritage | TRAVEL influenced palaces in Thailand. The various buildings dispersed in the gardens offer a curious diversity of all styles—blending Chinese, Thai, and European architectural styles (German, Greek, Italian, French, and Portuguese). Relatively small in size, all these pavilions appear like exquisite architectural miniatures. Strolling around the gardens reveals many charming details, such as wooden verandas, a Venetian or Portuguese style gothic tower, statues and bas-reliefs, ponds, and cottage houses which were once used for domestics. From the top of Ho Withun Thasana, a tower resembling a Portuguese lighthouse, visitors can look out over the entire park and its palaces. In its royal days, the tower was actually used as an observatory to scrutinize skies and the surrounding countryside. Among the not-to-be missed structures, Warophatphiman Hall is a beloved photographic backdrop for visitors. Exquisitely restored a few years ago, the small palace, with its Greek-style inspired peristyle, served during King Rama V as a throne hall and as a royal living quarter.
Historic
Thailand
Paris native Luc Citrinot has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years, first in Kuala Lumpur and more recently in Bangkok. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture, and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. Luc still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularly for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com
Wat Niwet
Ho Withun Thasana
Warophatphiman Hall
Saphakhan Ratchaprayun is another two-storey building which was a residence of relatives of the King and is now an exhibition hall displaying the history of Bang Pa-In Palace. But not all the buildings are European-inspired. The Aisawan Thiphya, also known as the “floating’ pavilion”, is a tribute to the first palace of Bang Pa-In. It stands in the middle of a pond with its traditional Thai spires and gables reflecting in the water. By contrast, Phra Thinang Wehart Chamrun is the only structure at Bang Pa-In being entirely open for visitors. It is a munificent Chinesestyle palace with its throne, carved columns, lacquers, and furniture in gold and ebony. Most of the materials were imported from China. Romance is often associated with tragedy, and Bang Pa-In is no exception to that cliché. In 1881, a royal barge carrying Queen Sunanda Kumariratana, along with her son, capsized on the river next to the
palace. As the royal rule was that commoners were not allowed to touch the royal family, on-lookers saw the Queen and her son drowning without making attempts to rescue them. Heartbroken, King Rama V had a commemorative marble obelisk built in the garden, with a poem written by the King integrated into the memorial. Finally, across the canal delinitating the palace compound is Wat Niwet, a must-see attraction. The temple is the work of Austrian-Italian architect Joachim Grassi, and has been built like a Gothic church, with decorative heraldic symbols, stainedglass, and a high wooden ceiling. It epitomizes the fascination of Siamese kings for European architecture some 130 years ago. VISITOR INFO: Bang Pa-In is open daily from 8am to 5pm. Tickets are B100, and proper attire is required (no short skirts, short pants, or sleeveless shirts). Tel: 03 526 1548. AUGUST 2017 | 55
TRAVEL | where to stay ayutthaya
Pludhaya Resort & Spa Rustic charms and modern amenities combined
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he road that leads to the Pludhaya Resort & Spa is long and winding, but once you arrive at the front entrance of this rustic boutique resort you know right away that the journey was worth it. It’s a peaceful setting indeed, located about 7 km south and to the east of the main island of Ayutthaya and the heart of the Historical Park. The property is bounded on one side by the Suan Phlu canal, and on the other by an expansive green rice field. There are 21 accommodation units in total, varying in size from the eight spacious villas and suites situated around the swimming pool and lagoon, to the more compact traditional Thai style cottages in the resort’s newly opened 13 unit extension overlooking the rice fields. Both have their charms and advantages, but having spent a weekend in the lovely Plu Jean Rim Klong Villa, I would say that this unit in particular offers a bit of everything— direct swimming pool access, a breezy balcony overlooking the sleepy canal, and plenty of privacy. The roomy interior of the Plu Jean Villa has a Chinese-style décor, with lacquered wooden furniture,
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ornately carved wooden dressers and drawers, and colourful floor tiling like something you’d see in a Chinatown shophouse. Of course there are plenty of modern elements as well, including a very comfortable king sized bed, air-conditioning, flatscreen TV, mini-fridge, room safe, coffee and tea making facilities, and in-room Wi-Fi. Meanwhile, the sizeable bathroom offers a deep soaking tub, as well as an outdoor shower. The grounds of the main wing are lush with greenery, and a small stone pathway interconnects everything. The kidney-shaped swimming pool by the canal is a nice spot to cool off, but there’s also a small fitness room on hand for working up a sweat. And for relaxation the resort has been putting a lot of time and effort into their Plu Hom Spa—located just behind the main reception area—which offers six floor mattresses for traditional Thai massages, a room with two massage tables for aroma therapy treatments, and several comfortable chairs for classic foot massages. The resort has two F&B outlets, the main one being the open air Plu Pleon Restaurant, which is built over
the resort’s lagoon and lets diners watch the ducks, egrets, carp, and the occasional monitor lizard, go about their daily routines. Breakfasts for guests are served here, while lunches and dinners cater to hotel guests and outsiders alike. The menu offers plenty of well-prepared Thai specialties, including many fresh seafood options. The second F&B unit is the Drip Rim Na Café, which specializes in coffees, teas, and desserts, and is located across the road from the resort’s main wing. One of the nicest things about the Pludhaya is that you get a real taste of Thailand. The friendly staff make sure you have everything you want, but the pace and attitude is unhurried and calm. And if you can read Thai script, there are cute engraved wooden signs posted everywhere with whimsical “poems” that the owner has composed himself. You won’t find that at your average chain hotel. by Bruce Scott
Pludhaya Resort & Spa
12/3, Moo 7, Tumbol Klongsuanplu Tel: 03 570 7565 www.pludhaya.com bangkok101.com
Aldo’s Bistro
A Reflection of your Lifestyle Renowned French Chef and author Herve Frerard brings his tantalizing cuisine that has been reserved for Thailand’s crème de la crème for year to Aldo’s Bistro. Aldo’s is a perfect dining venue where French food is accompanied by fine wine selected just for you.
The Cascade Club, 7th Floor, 7 Ascott Sathorn Building, South Sathorn Road, Bangkok 10120
RSVP : 02 676 6982 and 02 676 6969 www.cascadeclubandspa.com
aldosbistro
TRAVEL | see & do sukhothai
Roaming Amongst the Ruins
Wat Mahathat
Exploring the birthplace of Siamese culture at the Sukhothai Historical Park Words and photos by Bruce Scott
T
he modern day metropolis of Sukhothai is small—the population is just over 35,000— but the number of tourists making pilgrimages to this region of Thailand is quite sizeable, thanks to ruins of the ancient city which are preserved and on display for all at the stunningly beautiful Sukhothai Historical Park. The term Sukhothai translates as “the dawn of happiness”, and this area was the first capital of ancient Siam (founded sometime between 1238 and 1257). It was ruled by many kings, the most dynamic monarch being King Ramkhamhaeng the Great, who created the Thai alphabet, laid the foundation for politics, monarchy, and religion, and expanded the nation’s boundary of influence. Several centuries later the Siamese capital moved to Ayutthaya— and later to Bangkok—during which time the ruins and relics of ancient Sukhothai sat abandoned. What wasn’t pilfered by thieves was ravaged by the elements and/or overtaken by the encroaching jungle. Since the 1960s the ruins have seen a great deal of restoration—some say “too much”—and in 2003 the Sukhothai
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Historical Park was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As a tourist attraction it is exceptionally well-maintained, very clean, and there’s plenty of signage in English. The site covers an area of approximately 70 sq.km, and for many the best way to see everything in the park is by bicycle, which can be rented from the shops opposite the main park entrance (B30 per day). There is also a guided tour by electric tram available (B60), or
you can attempt to do it all on foot. The park has an admission fee of B100 (B20 for Thai nationals), and all visitors are charged 10 baht each for bicycles brought into the park. The highest concentration of ruins is in what is known as the Central Zone, with 11 ruins in its 3 sq.km area. This is the most “park-like” section, and the grounds are interspersed with moats, lakes, paved pathways, and bridges leading to some island-bound
Detailed carvings on the prangs of Wat Si Sawai bangkok101.com
see & do sukhothai | TRAVEL
Wat Si Sawai
ruins. Wat Mahathat is one of the most spectacular ruin sites, with a large seated Buddha figure set amongst the pillars of a now ruined sala, and a central chedi flanked by two standing Buddha figures. Nearby is Wat Si Sawai, one of the oldest temples in Sukhothai, which consists of three large Khmer style prangs (towers) and two viharns (assembly halls). The central tower measures about 15 metres tall and all three towers are adorned with carvings of mythological creatures, such as multi headed Naga serpents, Makaras (a sea creature), and Kala, a mythological monster often found depicted on Angkor temples. Several sites face the small lake, located in the middle of the park, including Wat Tra Phang Ngoen, which features a viharn—of which only the base and columns that once supported the roof remain—facing a serene seated Buddha image. The principal chedi here is topped with a lotus bud finial, characteristic of the Sukhothai style, and there are two niches (one on each side) that contain standing and walking images of the Buddha. Another temple with a lake view is Wat Sa Si. In fact, it’s actually on an island in the lake, and visitors need to cross a small bridge to access it. The seated Buddha here sits before a well preserved, bell-shaped, Singhalese-style chedi set on a square base. According to a stone inscription, the chedi was built to enshrine the ashes of King Li Thai of Sukhothai. Other park attractions bangkok101.com
Chedi at Wat Tra Phang Ngoen
Wat Sa Si dramatically lit at night
The lake is surrounded by plenty of greenery
include the many bell-shaped chedis dotting the park (in-between the main temples), and a memorial statue of King Ramkhamhaeng. Outside the main park area one of the must-see sites is Wat Sri Chum, a 13th century temple enshrining the largest Buddha image in Sukhothai. Located in the North Zone, the temple is known for its roofless mondop
enclosure, from which the Buddha statue is partly visible from outside through a triangular opening. The huge Buddha image within measures 15 metres high and 11 metres wide, and the right hand of the image is covered with gold leaf, applied by Buddhist devotees who come to pay their respects. Also located in the North Zone is Wat Phra Phai Luang, which contains
RAMKHAMHAENG NATIONAL MUSEUM This museum, located on Charodwitheethong Rd. (right near the main park entrance), houses a collection of ancient remnants, artefacts, art objects, and antiques that were excavated from the ruins of both the Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai historical parks. The exhibits present a vivid display of lifestyle, customs, traditions, beliefs, and artistic styles of the inhabitants during the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. It’s open daily from 9am till 4pm, and admission is B150 (B30 for Thai nationals). Tel: 05 569 7367
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TRAVEL | see & do sukhothai
Wat Phra Phai Luang
Wat Sri Chum
the remains of a number of dilapidated structures, plus a large Khmer-style prang with stucco reliefs. Visiting this largely untouched set of ruins gives one an idea of how much restoration work has been done on the neighbouring temples. There are several other historic sites to visit, some located quite far from the Central Zone, but if you only have time for one more make it Wat Chang Lom, a 14th century temple where the main chedi has an army of 39 elephants carved into its square pedestal base. In Buddhism, elephants are considered a symbol of mental strength, and these auspicious animals are often seen guarding temples.
Wat Chang Lom
BICYCLE TOURS Although self-guided bicycle tours in and around the Sukhothai Historical Park are dead easy, Cycling Sukhothai offers a range of organized tours if you prefer a group dynamic and also want a bit of informative running commentary. The company also provides riders with 24-speed mountain bikes—a huge step up from what the local rental shops offer—and apart from tours of the ruins and the Old City they also offer an Evening Sunset Tour, and full-day and half-day Countryside Tours, which visit everything from local rice farms to a rice whisky distillery. www.cycling-sukhothai.com
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Photo courtesy of TAT
NOTE: The park is open from 7am till 7:30pm each evening, and the ruins are dramatically lit once the sun goes down. In addition, on the 1st, 2nd, and 4th Friday and Saturday of each month a small Walking Street market is set up near the King Ramkhamhaeng statue, where visitors can buy food, drinks, and handicrafts, and the park stays open till 9pm. bangkok101.com
where to stay sukhothai | TRAVEL
Sawasdee Sukhothai
Newly opened boutique resort near the heart of the historical park
S
ince the famed Sukhothai Historical Park is, arguably, the main attraction for anyone visiting this part of Thailand, staying within close proximity to the park makes a great deal of sense, especially if your visit is a short one. To the southeast of the park, along the street known as Moo Ban Hemalak, there are several charming guesthouses and B&Bs, including the recently opened Sawasdee Sukhothai Resort. There are only 15 accommodation units at this property, each with its own covered terrace, and guests can choose one of the Pool View, Garden View, Family, or Superior bungalows. All are comfortable and nicely furnished, offering modern conveniences such as air-conditioning, flatscreeen TV, mini-fridge, tea and coffee making facilities, and Wi-Fi, but still maintaining a traditional Thai touch in the décor. Each unit is personalized with a unique elephant-themed wall mural, and the elephant motif carries on elsewhere as well (bed pillows, shelf mounts, etc.). In another nod to local Thai culture the bathroom sink is a Sangkhalok ceramic bowl—a style of pottery closely associated with Sukhothai. bangkok101.com
The resort is situated at the furthest end of an L-shaped side street, and the surroundings on all sides of the bungalows are open natural spaces, which translates into a very peaceful environment both day and night. Meanwhile, the grounds also have a pastoral feel, with lots of greenery, well-manicured grasses, and plenty of flowering bushes. There are a couple of hammocks set up here for guests to use communally, but the main feature of the common area is the large outdoor swimming pool—open till 9pm—complete with several deck chairs and umbrellas for shade. Close by to the pool is a kids play area, with a swing set, hobby horse, and see-saw. There is an open-air seating area directly beside the front reception desk—with a mix of tables and chairs, and couches—and while guests enjoy a nicely prepared breakfast buffet here, that’s the only time of day that the kitchen operates. For lunches and dinners the friendly staff are quick to suggest local restaurants for guests to try, which is a nice touch as it encourages exploration of the surrounding area. However, during
the course of the day the breakfast area can still be used for relaxing as complimentary tea, coffee, and cookies are offered throughout the day, and beer, soft drinks, and ice cream treats are available for purchase at the reception desk. Like almost all guesthouses in Sukhoathai, the Sawasdee Resort offers bicycles for hire (at a mere B50 per day). It’s a short 1.5 km journey to the historical park, and bikes are the perfect way to get around, although the staff will gladly arrange a taxi or tuk-tuk if you prefer. Finally, if you want a relaxing in-room massage, just ask and the friendly front desk crew will arrange it for you. It’s actually quite refreshing just how cheerful and helpful the staff are here, which is no doubt just one of the many reasons this resort has earned a 9.7 guest review rating on booking.com, despite being open for just under one year. by Bruce Scott
Sawasdee Sukhothai Resort 95/10, MooBan Hemalak, Moo3 Tel: 088 559 9089 www.sawasdee-sukhothairesort.com
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TRAVEL | where to stay sukhothai
Sukhothai Treasure
Comfortable and contemporary eco-friendly luxury resort and spa
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or visitors seeking a luxury resort style accommodation option in Sukhothai, the grand Sukhothai Treasure Resort & Spa ticks all the right boxes. Opened in 2010, the property is located just a five-minute drive from the famed historical park. The grounds of the resort are large, with a pair of 2-storey wings built facing the gardens and swimming pool, and a separate 2-storey wing—known as the Treasure Eco—overlooking the mountains and neighbouring rice fields. The 110 rooms are all modern and serviceable, with amenities such as flatscreen TV, air conditioning, mini-fridge, in-room Wi-Fi, and outdoor access in the form of a ground floor terrace, or balcony on the 2nd floor units. Room types include Eco, Superior, Deluxe, and a
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pair of stately 92 sq.m Treasure Suites which include a Jacuzzi bathtub and a separate living area with sofa, chair, and coffee table. The resort’s recreational amenities include an indoor fitness room, and an outdoor swimming pool with a spacious deck where guests can relax on one of many wooden sun loungers. The pool is quite large—a full 25 metres in length—and boasts a Jacuzzi portion as well. Close to the pool is the resort’s Red Lotus Spa, where visitors can unwind with treatments that include Thai massage, aromatherapy massage, body scrubs, and facials. This is one of only a handful of accredited spas in the area, with trained staff and professional level treatment rooms (three in total). Try the 80-minute Mind
Relaxing Massage for an aromatherapy treatment that combines Swedish massage with elements of Asian therapeutic techniques. To begin, customers choose from a selection of three scented oils—eucalyptus, Thai flower, or the signature red lotus— after which the masseuse begins the process of easing away tension and stress, while soothing music plays in the background. The resort also offers two F&B outlets, the larger of which is the Pink Lotus Restaurant. This split-level, spacious indoor dining area is where the delicious daily breakfast buffet is served—from 6am till 10am—after which the restaurant remains closed for the day, reopening again from 5pm till 11pm. During the evening hours the à la carte dinner menu offers a wide assortment of tasty Thai and international menu items. Signature dishes include: the Sukhothai Treasure pineapple, cashew, and shrimp fried rice, topped with an omlette and served with a yummy spicy pork salad; the BBQ river prawns served with a chunky fruit salad; and the highly recommended smoked duck breast steak with orange sauce, served with mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables. The resort’s second dining spot is the appropriately named Wine Bar. This bistro-style venue has a large selection of international wines available by the bottle—only the house red and house white are available by the glass—but the menu also offers frothy cappuccinos, refreshing iced lattes, and everything coffee-related in-between. With a choice of indoor and outdoor seating it’s a nice place to relax, enjoy a drink and/or a snack, and plan out your sightseeing agenda. by Bruce Scott
Sukhothai Treasure Resort & Spa
18/2, Moo 4 Jarodwithithong Rd. Tel: 05 561 1555 www.sukhothaitreasure.com bangkok101.com
TRAVEL | upcountry now
HUA HIN CHA-AM GOLF FESTIVAL August 1-31
Photo courtesy of Black Mountain
The month-long Hua Hin Cha-Am Golf Festival, organized by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) in co-operation with the Phetchaburi-Prachuap Khiri Khan Golf Course Association, has proven to be very popular—not only with Hua Hin residents, but also with golfers worldwide. This annual event promotes golf in the region and provides a valuable boost to local businesses during the region’s “low-season”. In 2017 the participating golf courses include: Royal Hua Hin; Palm Hills; Imperial Lake View; Springfield Royal; Majestic Creek; Sea Pine Golf Club; Kaeng Krachan; Banyan Golf Club; and Black Mountain.
RAINCOAT MUSIC FEST 2017 August 4-5
We may be well into the rainy season here in Thailand, but that doesn’t mean things have to be boring. Have fun this month with friends and family at the Raincoat Music Fest 2017, presented by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT). This free event will be held at Jollyland, in Khao Kho (Phetchabun province), and will feature many famous singers and bands, including: Aof Pongsak; Tattoo Colour; Mild, Instinct; Chilling Sunday; Fellow Fellow; Helmethead; and Bedroom Audio. In addition, there will be yummy food available. So, put on your raincoat and have a blast!
MISS TIFFANY’S UNIVERSE 2017 August 25
This month the final round of the annual 2017 Miss Tiffany’s Universe Contest will be held at Tiffany Show Pattaya (464 Moo 9, Pattaya 2nd Rd). The contest has been running since 1998 and is open to all transgender women who may or may not have gone through sex reassignment surgery. The event is broadcast live on national Thai television to around 15 million viewers. The contest promotes equal rights for transgender communities in Thailand, and can also be a source of significant income for contestants. Tickets are B2,500 and B3,500, and the show begins at 9pm.
MOUNTAIN BIKE COMPETITION August 26-27
If you think you’ve got what it takes then come out and participate in the Bhumibol Dam International Mountain Bike Competition, Thailand’s biggest mountain bike race. The 2-day sporting event is open to all cycling enthusiasts, and includes: a 62 km international mountain bike race; a long-distance mountain bike race; a mountain bike race in the family category; a mountain bike race in the tourism category; and an amateur mountain bike race. This will be the 16th edition of the popular annual competition, and it all takes place at Bhumibol Dam in Sam Ngao district, Tak province. 6 4 | AUGUST 2017
bangkok101.com
CUISINE ART
Discover the Secret Oasis that is Ruen Urai Experience fine Thai culinary art in the elegant surroundings of a historic century-old golden teakwood mansion. Casual dining and bar from noon to 11 p.m. Ruen Urai at the Rose Hotel 118 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel. (66) 2 266 8268-72 www.ruen-urai.com
ART
| ART & CULTURE
Story From My Garden
Renowned Thai artist creates a whimsical garden fantasy
I
n his latest art exhibition, entitled ‘Story From My Garden’, Thai artist SRIJAI KUNTAWANG shares with viewers his impressions and observations gleaned during the course of an ordinary day. His impressions are rendered somewhat extraordinarily as he lets his imagination guide the narrative. What we are left with is a reflection of the pure pleasures to be discovered from spending a peaceful day in his shady garden in Northern Thailand. The exhibit features woodcut and acrylic paintings, with the cast of characters being the many living creatures that dwell in the artist’s garden. The scenes of nature change through time but the setting—this same garden—remains the constant. These works are almost like a self-portrait, illustrating the simplicity of the artist himself—as represented by the element of artworks. It speaks at once of the artist, the way he lives, and the place where he was born. Accordingly, Srijai’s works are the recording of time cycling, from the present to the future and then turning back to the past. So, the audiences can feel the imprint of time blooming and, ultimately, leaving. About the Artist: Born in 1961 in Lumpoon, Thailand, Srijai Kuntawang graduated in 1986 from the Fine Arts Department of Rajamangala Institute of Technology. Later, in 1993, he obtained a B.Ed in Graphic Arts from the Pathum Thani Campus of the same Institute, and in 2009 he completed his MFA in Painting at Chiang Mai University. His most important exhibitions include several editions of the National Art Exhibition, the 7th International Print Biennial in Bulgaria, the Nagoya Print Exhibition, and the 3rd Kochi International Triennial Exhibition of Prints (the latter two, both in Japan). STORY FROM MY GARDEN runs from JULY 16-AUGUST 16 at DUKE CONTEMPORARY ART SPACE (1F, Gaysorn Village, 999 Phloen Chit Rd). Viewing hours are daily, from 11am to midnight. For more information, call 094 647 8888. www.facebook.com/duke.gaysorn
facebook.com/bangkokartmap bangkok101.com
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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions
AUGUST 4-SEPTEMBER 9 Errorism
Kalwit Studio & Gallery 119/14 Ruamrudee Soi 2 Viewing hours: Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm Tel: 02 254 4629 | www.facebook.com/kalwitstudio
This exhibition highlights the assumptions of four artists: Kamolchat Pangtho, Nuttiwut Choomanowat, Patt Yingcharoen, and Sakarin Sukmanatham. Based on their own experiences, the artists have found that body of knowledge that exists in society is constantly changing and developing, but it is the vital tool used by humans to understand the world and their surroundings. As time passes, so do social processes. In general, certain bodies of knowledge will be passed down to the new generations, however those sources of knowledge change according to context and individual notions.
AUGUST 5-SEPTEMBER 10 Weaving Narratives: Awaken Subhashok the Arts Centre
Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10am-5:30pm, Sun, noon-6pm Tel: 02 662 0299 | www.facebook.com/sacbangkok
In this first solo exhibition by Kma Sirisamphan, the artist draws from his own and others’ life experiences, pulling from his perceptions of dealing with growth, success, failure, and seeking for the value of life. Throughout this series, he has shone a spotlight on the curvature of the sculptures. The form of the muscles exhibits an emotional force; the significance being to stay strong as one tries to strike a balance between the ups and downs. His sculptures urge us to keep going through the hurdles of life while building a mindful position on the meaning of it all.
AUGUST 16-SEPTEMBER 23 A Talebearer’s Tale : The Last Deer Tang Contemporary Art
153 Ratchadamri Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm Tel: 02 652 2732 | www.tangcontemporary.com
This exhibition by Sakarin Krue-On presents another perspective of his previous work, 'Monument of Awakening Era', the installation of porcelain antlers that appear like a landscape of doom. The artist relays his fond memories of his first encounter with the elegant Schomburgk’s deer while visiting a musuem in Paris. Even though the body of the exquisite animal has been exhibited there for many years, it once was native only to central Thailand. The story of the Schomburgk’s deer is an example of the majestic inspiration the world has provided us with to lead a peaceful way of life with righteous virtues. 68 | AUGUST 2017
bangkok101.com
exhibitions | ART & CULTURE
AUGUST 24-OCTOBER 1 The Land of Virtue - The Land of Karma Ardel Gallery of Modern Art
99/45 Belle Ville, Boromratchonnanee Rd. Viewing hours: Tue-Sat, 10:30am-7pm, Sun, 10:30am-5:30pm Tel: 02 422 2092 | www.ardelgallery.com
This exhibition by Anupong Chantorn features sculptural works inspired through thoughts about good and bad deeds according to the belief of heaven, earth, and hell (Tri Bhum) found in Buddhism. The artist points out the value, and true and great meaning of Buddhism by applying characters in Apaya Bhumi—appearing in unattractive physical appearances—from committing evil deeds, together with monk robe and alms-bowl, which have also been modified to symbolize the ill-wishers in disguise and people that would take advantages from being in the monkhood.
UNTIL AUGUST 31 Ruen Sam Nam See (7 Elements) Numthong Gallery
72/3 Aree Soi 5 Viewing hours: Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Tel: 02 617 2794 | www.gallerynumthong.com
After the exhibition, 'Rebirth', in 2014, Imhathai Suwatthanasilp, a female artist who relates her artwork to each stage of her life, is back with her latest series of work. Her current exhibition is named after a Thai proverb, which is famous among elders when giving advice or blessing young girls who are about to get married to learn the role of a housewife. Using symbolic integration of hair embroidery and installation techniques, she presents her interpretation and own definition of this traditional proverb.
bangkok101.com
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ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight
Ancient Siam
Stroll around all of Thailand in just a few hours Words by Luc Citrinot Photos by Bruce Scott
Dvaravati Buddha
Prasat Sanphet Palace
I
magine jumping from the enigmatic figure of the seated Buddha of Sukhothai, to the Chedi Chet Yod (the seven-spired pagoda in Chiang Mai), to the Dusit Maha Prasat Palace in Bangkok—all within a matter of minutes. Something so seemingly impossible is, in fact, quite possible for visitors of Muang Boran, also known as Ancient Siam, a theme park dedicated to the cultural and architectural glories of the Kingdom. The visionary behind this park was late Lek Viriyaphant, a successful businessman who initially wanted to build a golf course in the shape of a map of Thailand with miniatures of famed Thai sites placed at certain spots along the course. However, saddened by the decay of many ancient sites within Thailand, he changed his mind and instead created an open air museum dedicated to both the extraordinary variety of Thailand’s local architecture, and to the nation’s most famous sites and landmarks. In the guide material Viriyaphant explains that his open air museum would help to remedy the existing moral deterioration of human society by 70 | AUGUST 2017
Dusit Maha Prasat Palace promoting arts and culture as a national heritage for all the world to see. Construction began in 1963 and was completed in 1972, making Muang Boran—located Samut Prakan, just south of Bangkok—the oldest theme park in Thailand. Unfortunately, this attraction does not make headlines anymore these days compared to newer theme park opening up all over, which is a shame as Muang Boran lets visitors discover the variety of architecture and cultural heritage throughout Thailand, via over a hundred exceedingly well-made reproductions of the country’s most famous sites and monuments. And despite its 50-year existence, it remains a beautiful, well maintained property. It’s no secret that the park has an educational purpose. It not only shows the various architectural styles from the North to the South, and from the East to the West of Thailand, but also the various periods in the history of the country. By showing the monuments in chronological order, the park covers periods such as Dvaravati, Srivichai, Lopburi, Sukhothai, Ayutthaya, and Rattanakosin (among others). bangkok101.com
museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE is a historic ruin, the structure in Muang Boran is a faithful reconstitution of the palace, which was built by King Phra Baromatrai Lokanat in the middle of the 15th century. With its intricate roofs, its reconstituted wall paintings, and its golden stuccos, the palace is itself a masterpiece of Thai craftsmanship and architectural skill. It served as a reception hall to Queen Elizabeth II during her state visit in 1972. Today, however, there is no need to be part of Britain’s Royal Family to enjoy what can be considered part of the national heritage of Thailand.
Stupa of Phra Maha That Visitors stroll from one stupa to another. There are probably some 30 to 40 stupas from Thailand's most famous Wat and Shrines, including illustrious monuments such as Nakhon Si Thammarat’s famed Phra Maha That stupa, the Chedi of Cham Thewi in Lamphun with its 60 niches containing a statue of Buddha, the graceful Khmer style Prang of Phimai sanctuary tower, or the Phanom Rung temples in Isaan. Wat Phra Phutthabat NOTE: Ancient City is located 30 minutes from Bangkok city centre (Tel: 02 709 1644-8). The BTS extension to Samut Prakan will soon provide a station near to the Erawan Museum. Until then a shuttle bus is offered on weekends leaving from BTS station Bearing. The price is B600 for adults (B350 for Thai nationals). www.ancientcitygroup.net/ancientsiam/en/home
Prasat Phra Wihan Between stupas and palaces are villages from various regions of Thailand showing the distinctive architectures from the South, Isaan, Central Thailand, and the North. A favourite picture taking area is the Floating Market where a central canal is surrounded by traditional Thai wooden houses—many of them being authentic houses saved from destruction. There’s even a traditional Thai mosque preserved here, which is over 100 years old. For most visitors the park’s pièce de résistance is the Prasat Sanphet Palace of Ayutthaya. While the real palace bangkok101.com
Floating Market AUGUST 2017 | 7 1
ART & CULTURE | music makers
Girls! Who Run This… The first all-female rock competition in Asia kicks off By Rianka Mohan
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angkok’s Hard Rock Cafe is packed for the launch of Girls Rock Asia. I snag a tiny table sandwiched between regular diners on the top floor overlooking the stage. It’s a customer’s birthday and the staff comes with cake and clanging instruments to enhance their celebration. I’m beginning to have serious misgivings. Then Earthcollide, the first performer (and organizer) of Girls Rock Asia is announced. The nondescript shuffling sound within the restaurant is instantly killed by the first hard twang of the electric guitar. By the time Earth—for whom the band is named—gets to her near perfect Janis Joplin cover, the well-heeled women in the first row are on their feet, head banging and heedless of who’s around. “Take another lil’ piece of my heart now, baby!” Earth belts out, Earth, from Earthcollide guitar in hand, tattoos on display, basking in the well-deserved limelight, while men and women alike whoop, cheer, clap, and stomp. It sure feels good to be reminded that women rock. Which is precisely the premise of Girls Rock Asia—to fete female rockers and give them a platform they’re sorely missing in this part of the world. Now in its second year, this “battle of the bands” is open to women from Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, the Philippines, Indonesia, and Hong Kong. Bands from each participating country will compete in online competitions in order to qualify for the public head-to-head final battle to be held in Thailand in November. And the winner receives $10,000 in prize money, along with continued support to release original music and land gigs. Having spent many years in the music business, Earth knows how rough it is for female performers to try and make it. “Unless you’re picked up by a huge record label, the opportunities are limited. And even if you’re talented, you have to overcome the stigma of what you’re expected to look like and play,” she says. “To many, a woman rocker means skimpy clothes and sexy looks and not that she is a musician in her own right who can kill it on the mic or hold her own on the drums. “I myself started from scratch, singing in Thai in local bars. Seven years ago, I taught myself English so I could 72 | AUGUST 2017
play better venues,” she recalls, following which she became the first Thai singer to perform at the Formula One Grand Prix in Singapore in 2011. Earth wasn’t aware of how big the event was until she showed up in shorts and a T-shirt and realized the other acts were Shakira and Linkin’ Park. “I was absolutely clueless!” she laughs now, “But the experience and others since taught me confidence and helped me build a network that supports my career. That’s what I want to share with upcoming female musicians. Talent and passion are the beginning but you need a village to take it to the next level.” Yet Earth’s biggest hurdle right now is finding bands to compete. “Because we’re starting out and fairly unknown, musicians think that it’s a scam and they’ll get taken for a ride,” she says. Last year’s winners, Thai band The Grumps, feature four girls on vocals, guitar, bass and drums, the youngest of whom is just 17 years old. And since winning, they’ve been doing pretty well for themselves, and attribute much of that to getting their start through Girls Rock Asia. Earth has made it her mission to expand the lineup, bring more bands on board, and showcase the musical talent of women in the region because for her and her team, it’s more than music; it’s a movement. To which we say, rock on! For voting details, email earth@earthcollide.com, or visit www.girlsrockasia.com.
JONESING FOR SOME JAZZ Okay, Foo Fighters and sure, Slot Machine. We get it, you’ve got a sick concert lineup for August and you’re all set. Yet should you find yourself in the mood for something more local and low-key, head to Le Café des Stagiaires (142/21 Sathorn Soi 12) on Saturday, August 22nd for an evening of jazz, performed by the simply named The Band. No fuss, no lines, no press, no signs. Just a saxophone and a snifter of your choice. A pretty perfect evening in our book (from 9pm to midnight). www.facebook.com/csbangkok
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ART & CULTURE | cinema scope
Film News & Screenings By Bruce Scott
Twinsters
A Matter of Taste
T
here are five special film screenings this month at the Foreign Correspondent’s Club of Thailand (518/5 Ploenchit Rd, Maneeya Center, Penthouse), which are part of the ongoing Monday night documentary series. On August 7th the club presents Twinsters, a 2015 film by Samantha Futerman. The film follows the story of how the writer, director, and star stumbles upon a familiar face on YouTube—her own—and finding the resemblance uncanny, she sends the video’s American creator a message. Miraculously the pair discover that they are, in fact, twins separated at birth. This screening includes a post-screening Skype discussion with the filmmakers. The series continues with two films that explore the world of fine dining. On August 15th don’t miss A Matter of Taste: Serving Up Paul Liebrandt, a 2011 documentary that follows the career of British chef Paul Liebrandt as he makes a name for himself in post-9/11 New York City. This is followed on August 21st with the 2016 doc City of Gold, in which filmmaker Laura Gabbert follows Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic Jonathan Gold as he explores the culinary culture of Los Angeles. The FCCT Monday night screenings in August conclude with Most Likely to Succeed, a 2015 feature-length documentary examining the history of education in the United States and revealing the growing shortcomings of conventional education methods in today’s innovative world. All the aforementioned films are being shown in partnership with the U.S. Embassy and the American Film Showcase, and begin at 7pm. Admission is free for members, and B150 for non-members. As an extra bonus this month the FCCT is also presenting a Tuesday night documentary screening on August 29th with a film entitled The Rainbow Over the River Kwai. The film profiles Takashi Nagase (1918-2011) 74 | A U G U S T 2 0 1 7
Most Likely to Succeed
The Bridge on the River Kwai a Japanese soldier who witnessed the misery behind the building of the infamous ‘Death Railway’ in Thailand during the Second World War—where hard work, torture, malnutrition, and disease claimed the lives of 13,000 POWs and more than 50,000 Asian workers. This documentary highlights ‘Nagase’s ties with Thai people, and details his devotion to atonement, reconciliation, and attempts to make peace with those who were involved in this regrettable chapter in the county’s history. Nagase established the ‘River Kwai Peace Foundation’ to give scholarships to Thai students in Kanchanaburi, and made 135 pilgrimages to Thailand throughout his lifetime. Sometimes he faced cruel rejection, but other times he shook hands with ex-POWs. There was also a notable reunion with Eric Lomax, author of a best-selling non-fiction book which was made into a moving film The Railway Man (2013). Ironically, the same subject matter—the construction of the ‘Death Railway’ in Kanchanaburi—is the focus of another, unrelated cinematic presentation this month. On Sunday August 13th at the historic Scala Cinema (at Siam BTS station), you can watch the Academy Award winning 1957 war drama The Bridge on the River Kwai, directed by David Lean and starring William Holden, Jack Hawkins, and Alec Guinness. Based on the novel Le Pont de la Rivière Kwai, by Pierre Boulle, the film is largely fictional but loosely parallels the building of a railway bridge at a place called Tha Ma Kham, 5 km from the Thai town of Kanchanaburi (however the movie’s shooting location was, in fact, Sri Lanka). This screening is part of the ongoing ‘World Class Cinema’ series, which presents a different classic film each month up on the big screen. Showtime is 12 noon, and tickets are B100. Call 02 251 2861 for more information. bangkok101.com
Art & Culture Photo Feature
Imprint of Spirit Photographic Exhibition by Rabil Bunnag Until August 26 Kathmanadu Photo Gallery 87 Pan Rd. www.kathmanduphotobkk.com The atmospheric black and white photographs of the ancient ruined cities of Sukhothai, Si Satchanalai, and Kamphaeng Phet taken by Rabil Bunnag in 1953, evoke romantic adventures through mysterious mythic lands. Here Buddha statues and pagodas are overgrown with creepers, but with exquisite patience and meticulousness, the photographer captured the optimum play of light and shadow to bring out their potent beauty. But looking back, one wonders if the magic of the ancient spiritual aura that once haunted these old sacred sites has gone. If so, why hasn’t it survived the process of modern restoration? “These photographs are most valuable for study, as they were taken before restoration, so any interested party could use them for comparison, to see how they differ from today’s reality,” explains Buddhadasa Bhikku in the foreword to the book Three Old Cities of Siam (published in 1971), a compilation of this set of photographs, printed almost 20 years after the photos were originally taken.
Wat Sriratanamahadhatu, Chalieng, Sri Sajjanalaya, Sukhothai: Buddha image of laterite and stucco from the reign of Ram Kamheng or Lo Tai, late 13th or 14th century.
Rabil donated over 100 photographs from this series to Suan Mokkh Monastery in Chaiya, Surat Thani, and now the Buddhadasa Indapanno Archives has brought them to Bangkok for preservation and distribution to the public.
Rabil Bunnag at work, 1953 (photographer unknown).
ABOUT THE ARTIST: Rabil Bunnag (1902–1999) was born in Bangkok, but finished his studies in Singapore. At age 21 he returned to Thailand to work for the Botanical Division of the Forestry Department. This enabled him to travel extensively on forest inspection tours all over the country. After 1937 Rabil left government service to set up the ‘R. Bunnag’ photography studio on Silom Road. He later became a lecturer in Pictorial Photography at Bangkok Technical College. Before passing away at the age of 97, Rabil donated some 23,000 photographs of ancient sites and objects to the National Archive.
Frieze of Walking Monks on the Base of the Mahadhatu, Sukhothai: Dating to the reign of Lo Tai, about 1345.
Wat Si Chum, Sukhothai: This imposing Buddha image dates from the late 13th century, but has been much altered by later restorations.
Brah Mahadhatu, Sukhothai: Work in laterite is probably by Sri Indraditya (13th century), work in brick and stucco by Lo Tai, about 1345.
Wat Si Iriyapatha, Kampaeng Phet: This standing Buddha is late Sukhodaya style, Ayudhya period, 15th century.
Buddha in the Posture of Subduing Mara: Made of laterite and stucco during the reign of King Ram Kamheng, about 1290.
Mandapa of Monastery of the Coral-Tree Pond, East of Sukhothai: View from the west. Structure probably built by King Lu Tai around 1350.
Khmer Sanctuary Tower, Wat Pra Pai Luang, Sukhothai: Early 13th century, built in the reign of King Jayavaraman VII of Cambodia.
Khmer Sanctuary Tower, Wat Pra Pai Luang, Sukhothai: Detail of tower faรงade. Early 13th century, during the reign of Jayavaraman VII the Tai gained their independence.
Brah Mahadhatu, Chalieng, Svargaloka, Sukhothai: The Prang was built in the 15th century (Ayudhya period) on the site of a Cetiya built by King Ram Kamheng, after 1292.
Vihara of Wat Nang Paya (Queen’s Monastery), Sri Sajjanalaya, Sukhothai: Wall with stucco ornament displaying Ayudhya period, late Sukhodaya style.
Attharasa (18-cubit high) Image of the Buddha at Wat Mahadhatu, Sukhothai: Restored around 1345 and again several times later.
The Main Vihara of Wat Sriratanamahadhatu, Chalieng, Sri Sajjanalaya, Sukhothai: The walking Buddha at the left probably dates from the reign of Ram Kamheng (1290).
FOOD & DRINK |
Octopus and Mussel Spaghetti Nero, just one of the many new seasonal and sustainable menu items now available at Jamie’s Italian 82 | AUGUST 2017
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| FOOD & DRINK
AROY seasonal and sustainable at jamie’s italian
Although UK celebrity chef JAMIE OLIVER is the creative force behind a chain of over 60 restaurants worldwide, various branches are also encouraged to develop seasonal menus based on what’s available locally. Recently, head chef ALEX BARMAN from JAMIE’S ITALIAN in Bangkok (GF, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama 1 Rd), debuted a number of new dishes including funghi pizza, prawn linguine, roasted carrot salad, silky pate bruschetta, octopus and mussel spaghetti nero, and roast chicken al mattone. Of course, the restaurant is no stranger to buying from local food artisans, with pork chops and pork sausage coming from Sloane’s, free-range chickens from Sirin Farms (Chiang Rai), and mozzarella, ricotta, and soft cheeses from local producers Mille Stelle. Incidentally, if you’ve never tried Jamie’s truly amazing Amalfi lemon meringue cheesecake, then you don’t know what you’re missing!
modestly priced michelin Back in June the TERMINAL 21 mall (88, Sukhumvit Soi 19) added yet another mid-priced Michelin-starred eatery to its interior. The newly opened HAWKER CHAN now rivals TIM HO WAN as the city’s cheapest Michelin-starred meal. After it was announced that Singapore’s Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Chicken Rice & Noodles was one of just two streetfood stalls to be awarded a star in the first edition of that country’s 2016 Michelin Guide, owner-chef CHAN HON MENG rapidly expanded his empire with two “quick-service” outlets in Singapore, a branch in Taipei, and now a foothold right here in Bangkok. The no-frills space on the 5th floor, offers specialties like Hong Kong-style soya sauce chicken and BBQ pork.
flippin’ the bird It’s all about chicken at the recently opened BIRDS ROTISSERIE (Soi Amon, Nang Linchi Rd), located deep in the heart of the Chong Nonsi/Yenakart area. Here, three day-marinated, free-range chickens from Khao Yai—no preservatives or no antibiotics—are spit-roasted in a huge French-style rotisserie oven, resulting in perfectly crispy skin surrounding the tender meat. This collaboration of French chefs JULIEN LAVIGNE and JEREMY TOURRET also offers sides like new potato tossed in the rotisserie drippings, and coriander-pesto roasted baby carrots. Up until mid-July it was operating as a delivery only set-up, but now they are open for dining in as well, with seating for about 25 persons. Open daily, except Monday, during lunch and dinner hours (closing at 10:30pm).
your cabin or mine? At the newly opened LE CABANON restaurant (44, Naradiwas Soi 15) the emphasis is on French and Mediterranean cuisine, with a penchant for seafood—especially lobsters! This casual yet elegant fine dining restaurant, whose name translates roughly as “cabin”, is set in a lovely home complete with a garden and terrace and seating for about 60 persons. The team here is the same one behind the now defunct Moko on Sathorn Soi 10, which was sold several years ago. This new venture is open from 5pm to 11pm Tuesday to Friday, and from 11am to 11pm on weekends.
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FOOD & DRINK | mother‘s day meal deals
Make Memories with Mom at Latest Recipe
Le Méridien Bangkok | 40/5 Surawong Rd. Tel: 02 232 8888 | www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com Bringing the family closer together than ever, Latest Recipe restaurant presents a weekend seafood dinner buffet on August 11th to 13th and a ‘Mother’s Day Brunch for Mom’ plus complimentary ‘Cooking Class for Mom’ on Saturday, August 12th. Treat mom to a heart-warming meal as she dines for free when accompanied by at least one of her children. Every table will also receive one Boston lobster during both dinner and brunch. Dinner is served from 6pm to 9:30pm and is priced at B1,600++ per person while the Sunday brunch is available from noon to 2:30pm at B1,800++ per person.
‘Memorable Mother’s Day Brunch’ at Flavors
Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Hotel | 518/8 Ploen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 125 5010 | www.marriott.com Celebrate this Mother’s Day with a feast of wholesome international cuisine. Renaissance Bangkok’s all-day dining Flavor restaurant takes Mother’s Day brunch to new heights with more than 50 exquisite creations. Upon arrival at your table, a Boston lobster welcomes you and your mother in not one five different delicious styles alongside a fresh array of crustacean specialties all presented with sauces and condiments to match your taste. Finish your meal off by visiting the dessert section featuring a vast selection of indulgent sweet creations. Priced at B2,400++ per person. Available from noon to 3pm.
Fill Up on Giant Crabs at The World
Centara Grand and Bangkok Convention Centre at Central World | 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 ext. 6753-4 | www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cgcw Indulge in an amazing seafood buffet and relish the taste of the finest premium seafood dishes including delicacies such as giant crabs, river prawns, rock lobsters, octopus, and oysters. Taste fantastic menus and dine on a selection of antipasti, salads, roasts, grills, hot and cold meats, international dishes and more. Then, complete your dinner with fine desserts including a wide range of cakes, homemade ice creams, fresh regional fruits, and many more sweet treats. Priced at just B1,890++ per person which includes free-flow draft beer. Available every Saturday from 6pm to 10:30pm.
Black Summer Truffle Menu at Rossini’s
Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Hotel | 250 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 649 8364 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com Until the end of August discover the delights of black summer truffles with Chef Gaetano’s exceptional recipes at Rossini’s restaurant. Highlights from his creative menu of modern Italian cuisine include Angus beef carpaccio with spring summer salad and black truffle, ravioli of buffalo ricotta and nettle, egg yolk and black truffle, and Australian roasted lamb loin herb crust with hazelnut, Castelmagno cheese fondue, and black truffle. This promotion is priced at B2,000++ for a 3-course set menu, and B2,500++ for 4-course menu. Open weekdays for lunch (noon-2:30pm) and dinner daily from 6:30pm till 10:30pm.
Japanese Seasonal Ingredients at Elements
Okura Prestige Bangkok | Park Ventures Ecolex, 57 Wirelesss Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 | www.okurabangkok.com Executive Chef Antony Scholtmeyer is celebrating summer with a sensational Japanese menu featuring delicacies such as Kumomoto oysters, Taraba crab, Hokkaido scallops, and Satsuma beef. The Occident and Orient combine in a marriage of culinary know-how as these ingredients are prepared with French savoir faire and presented with Gallic panache. Try the Kumomoto oyster with sake jelly, finger lime, soba and cucumber; or Taraba crab open sandwich on konbu wafers with avocado and pickled vegetables. Available every Tuesday to Saturday from 6pm to 10:30pm. Prices start from B670++.
8 World Crabs and BBQ Beef Asado at Cuisine Unplugged
Pullman Bangkok King Power | 8-2 Rangnam Rd. Tel: 02 680 9999 | www.pullmanbangkokkingpower.com From Monday to Thursday, seafood lovers can enjoy eight world crabs including French Snow crabs, Chinese Soft-shelled crabs, Indonesian Tiger crabs, African Mud crabs, Thai Three-spot swimming crabs, among others, alongside a grand international buffet featuring Fine de Claire oysters on ice, sushi, BBQ meats, and much more priced at B1,500 per person. From Friday to Sunday, add more BBQ seafood and grilled beef asado imported from the USA, Australia, and Argentina cooked in BBQ Latin American style. Priced at B1,700 per person. Until the end of August, book online and receive 30% off.
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hot plates | FOOD & DRINK
Brasserie Cordonnier
Exquisite Gallic favourites create a memorable dining experience
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hile Bangkok’s restaurant ecosystem has become saturated with Italian and Japanese cuisine, it has always been light on traditional French middleclass fare. Brasserie Cordonnier attempts to right that injustice, serving exquisite Gallic favourites as it tries to create a memorable experience for the diner. That experience starts with the awning outside, a bright blue beacon for hungry passersby. Inside the high ceilings, low-slung lights, and long wooden bar slyly transport you away from Sukhumvit Soi 11. Cordonnier means “cobbler”, and fashion is a focus at the eatery—from the menu, to the décor, to the drinks. The one part of Cordonnier that does not tick all the brasserie boxes is the bar’s emphasis on cocktails. A modest wine list is available, but the owners (Soho Hospitality) have brought in their group mixologist Davide Sambo to create cocktails tied to the restaurant’s theme. The effort yields a sublime tangy Lumiere (B390), with house-blended gin, green chartreuse, Mancino Bianco, absinthe, bangkok101.com
orange bitter, and citrus and vanilla air. As lumiere means “light” in French, the concoction is served in a lightbulbshaped glass, and because the Lumiere brothers pioneered cinematography in that country, the waitress will take a Polaroid of your first sip and present it as a souvenir. The Moulin Sour (B390) was equally worthy, providing an umami kick through a mix of houseblended scotch whiskey, ruby port wine, vanilla, lemon, egg white and truffles, smoked with cherry wood. The cuisine is likely to keep this eatery open a long time. Chef Clement Hernandez takes a step back from fine dining and his work at J’Aime to hit the high notes in an ode to French classics. The Burgundy Escargot (B390) is a divine mash of snails, parsley, garlic, and pastis, while the Chilled Ratatouille (B280) is a hearty, zesty melding of three types of tomatoes, sunflower seeds, and mint. And though everyone has their preferred version of French Onion Soup (B280), the lip-smacking recipe here avoids the saltiness trap by using emmental cheese rather than gruyere. The best French food is known
for its savoury sauces so rich you will thankfully dip bread into, and the venerable Beef Bourguignon (B520) is just such a dish. Shredded instead of cubed, the beef cheek and red wine was slowly reduced to a thick elixir. By contrast the Crispy Confit Pork Belly (B420) is a non-traditional concession to the chef’s discovery of a premium supplier, the tender meat slathered in an onion purée. Rounding off the meal, the Tarte Tatin (B220) was prepared without sugar. Lemon juice was added, but the kitchen allowed the fructose in the red apples to provide the sweetness, allowing a more balanced taste. Finally, the Poire Belle Helene (B230) is a nod to the chef’s childhood, featuring poached pear, almonds, chantilly, vanilla ice cream, and hot chocolate sauce in a gravy boat. by Robin Banks
Brasserie Cordonnier 33/30, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 094 970 8599 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.cordonnierbkk.com
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FOOD & DRINK | review
Madame Shawn “Aroi maak” gets a French accent
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s Bangkok’s many-faceted international dining scene continues to grow in diversity, so too has a diaspora of local chefs introduced the wonders of Thai cooking to an appreciative international audience. With six popular restaurants and bistros in and around Paris, Madame Shawn is one such successful foreign-based Thai entrepreneur. Her motherland branch of the native French eatery chain taps with a wealth of overseas culinary experience to create a perfectly curated selection of authentically prepared “imported” Thai cuisine. Semi-conveniently located along Sukhumvit Soi 49’s bustling “downtown” strip, Madame Shawn herself (the anglicised version of the owner’s Thai given name) holds court in a converted private home. Tastefully rendered, high-concept contemporary interior elements and traditional Thai touches blend seamlessly to create
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a refined, homey-feeling décor that reflects the owner’s cross-cultural background. Our Franco-Thai gastro sojourn begins with a plate of Yum Ma Keua Yow (B125), a spicy grilled aubergine salad that capitalizes on the strange but utterly satisfying bedfellows of ground pork and shrimps, drawn together in a rich, tangy-sweet pairing of chili paste and coconut milk. Often described as traditional Thai hors d’oeuvres, Miang Kham (B115) is a group-friendly specialty not commonly offered by higher-end venues. Usually end user-assembled, here the leaf-wrapped savouries come pre-loaded with the wildly dissimilar array of condiments—toasted coconut, fresh ginger, peanuts, dried shrimp, lime sections and chili— arranged on a single fresh bai cha plu or “wild pepper” leaf, and slathered with a thick, salty-sweet chili sauce. The resulting flavour-fugue these bitesized bundles deliver is surprisingly
complex and surpasses the sum of their individual ingredients. A “farang” foodie-favourite, Madame’s Kai Pad Med Mamuang Himmampan (B170) combines boneless, pan-fried chicken bites, cashew nuts, red bell pepper, and green onion with a savoury-sweetish sauce that pairs perfectly with the dried red chili. The not-to-be-missed Khao Soi Kai (B175) literally turns this Northern Thai soup dish on its head. Rather than the expected bowl of coconutcurry broth with bone-on chicken, this “Transformer” of a dish arrives as a platter piled high with loose crispy noodles, which are topped with generous pieces of curried boneless chicken. The thick, rich sauce is absorbed by the topmost crispies, creating a chewy-crunchy dynamic that gives the house version of this traditional dish its one-of-a-kind allure. Dessert’s first act is a bowl of Bua Loy Peuak (B75), a sweet coconut-cream broth typically made with translucent taro drops, but here the dumplings are solid and dark, giving them an appealing artisanal appearance and firm bite. The Panna Cotta Tub Tim Grob (B140) are petit tumblers of luxuriously smooth coconut custard topped with chewy, crimson-glistening taro “rubies”. While experienced Thai food enthusiasts will appreciate the authenticity and attention to detail that have enchanted the palates of discerning French diners for the better part of a decade, newcomers to the cuisine will too be smitten with Madame Shawn’s for its light-handed use of chili, vast menu selection, and surprisingly reasonable prices. by Chris Michael
Madame Shawn
127, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 3 Alley Open daily: 11am-3pn, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 258 1205 www.mmeshawn.com/bbk bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
Blue Parrot
A family-friendly hang-out hub arrives in Sathorn’s Soi 10
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ucked away behind the bright blue building that houses Revolucion Cocktail (and until recently Clandestino Cantina), the newly opened Blue Parrot comes as a breath of family-friendly fresh air to the bustling neighbourhood of Sathorn Sois 10 and 12. In stark contrast to Revolucion—known for its Cubanthemed cocktails, appetizing tapas, and plenty of late night salsa dancing—this latest outlet places a strong emphasis on providing a relaxing environment for the community, including its youngest members. The venue itself features plenty of lush greenery and shaded areas, an inviting swimming pool surrounded by cabanas and loungers, a children’s play area complete with kiddy-sized picnic tables, a small bar (for the bangkok101.com
adults), a large tiled BBQ, and two pétanque strips—the French version of boules that sees players tossing or rolling hollow steel balls. Guests may choose to sit at the bar, next to the pool, or in the family-style seating area that encompasses the children’s play area—so mums and dads can keep a watchful eye on their little ones. Helming the kitchen (as well as the live BBQ) is French chef Nicolas Valanchon who serves up classic European fare with a modern twist. We started our meal with the Full Green Salad (B150/210), a playful mixture of zucchini, asparagus, broccoli, romaine lettuce, green mango, fennel, cucumber pumpkin seeds, pistachio nuts, and a secret green dressing. For the healthconscious, the Blue Parrot Salad
(B150/210) is a light combination of slow-cooked chicken, mixed quinoa, cucumber, carrot, beetroot, mango, spinach, and coriander tossed in a lowfat dressing. A low-calorie start to our evening had it not been for the fresh homemade bread that was finished within minutes. From the mains menu, the Lamb Saddle Persillade (B470), slow-cooked Australian lamb with fresh garlic and parsley, and reduced lamb juice with confit garlic, and the Grilled Grouper Vierge (B270), cooked to perfection and topped with a traditional vierge sauce comprising of tomato, olive oil, black olives, and basil, were both fine examples of simple food done well. Homemade Pommes Dauphine (B90) and Veggie Tagliatelles (B90) cooked with shallot confit butter replace mundane French fries and roasted vegetables as side options, amongst others. For children there’s a simple menu featuring Ham & Cheese Coquillettes Risotto, Mini Chicken Roast, and Steak & Cheese (the latter two each served with a choice of side dish). Served with a drink each set is priced at B190. As no meal is complete without dessert, the Tropical Sin (B150), caramelized fruit, vanilla ice cream, and coconut crumble topped with tarte passion fruit, and the Chef’s Chocolate Mousse (B180)—a chocolate lover’s dream—wound things off nicely. Inheriting some features from its neighbour, wine cocktails, gin-based, and Cuban-themed cocktails make an appearance on the drinks menu. Every Thursday night also sees a DJ playing funky house music and an all-you-caneat buffet on offer. by Kelly Harvey
Blue Parrot
50, Sathorn Soi 10 Open: Wed-Mon, 11:30am-11pm Tel: 02 235 4822 www.facebook.com/blueparrotbangkok AUGUST 2017 | 87
FOOD & DRINK | review
Blue Elephant
Upcoming tasting menu lets you eat through the eras
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long the skyscraper-lined South Sathorn Road sits an eye-catching example of Chino-Portuguese architecture that has stood the test of time (while many similar structures have fallen victim to developers). Known as the ‘Thai Chine Building’, this three-storey house was built in 1903 as a department store in what was the most exclusive neighbourhood of Bangkok during that time. In 2002 it became the flagship branch of the worldrenowned Blue Elephant Restaurant & Cooking School. Reminiscent of an era bygone, everything stays true to the culinary culture and traditions of Thailand—the food, the building, the decorations, and the warm hospitality and service. Steeped in historical elegance, the ground floor is occupied by a large dining room filled with dark wooden furniture set against stark white linen and plenty of green foliage placed throughout. A small shop located near the entrance sells branded merchandise, crockery, and cooking products, while the 2nd floor hosts large function rooms, and the 3rd is home to the cooking school.
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Master Chef Nooror SomanySteppe is currently working on a new set menu featuring dishes from the four eras of Thai history—Sukhothai, Ayuttaya, Thonburi, and Rattanakosin. Taken out of age-old recipe books, some dishes are extremely rare and unfamiliar even to Thais. At the time of writing the menu had yet to be confirmed, but Chef Nooror gave us a sneak peek of some dishes that may go on the menu (prices yet to be confirmed). Our culinary history lesson began with entrees of Tang Mo Pla, watermelon served with dried fish and adorned with ikura, first served during the reign of King Rama IV, as well as a traditional Thai snack—an assortment of nuts and herbs served with caramelized coconut sugar, tamarind sauce, and shrimp paste wrapped in betel leaves. These were soon followed by Sago Chicken (a favourite of King Rama I) consisting of steamed pandan sago stuffed with caramelized chicken, sweet turnip and crushed peanuts, and Latieng, wild blue swimmer crab wrapped in an elegant, creamy egg nest. The Rice Field Catfish with prawn salad and the
Tom Jew Nuea—an old-world broth with stewed beef, sweet potato, and shallots—were both beautifully light but fragrant and suited well before the heavier main courses. The main courses, naturally, were served to share and included: Jungle Curry from the Sukhothai era, a firey snow fish curry; sticky and sweet Caramelized Pork (a childhood favourite of King Rama VI); and Mumbai Beef from the Rattanakosin era by way of India, made with turmeric and dried spices and served rare. Kao Man Som Tam—coconut steamed rice and papaya salad from the palace of King Rama VI— accompanied the mains. For dessert, Mung Bean Custard served in a sugar nest and topped with gold leaf and Som Chun, local fruits in tangerine perfumed syrup, were the perfect dishes to end with after a long evening of eating. by Kelly Harvey
Blue Elephant
233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.blueelephant.com bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINK | review
Bombyx
Metamorphosizing the Jim Thompson brand
A
s the world luxury Thai silk brand Jim Thompson reimagines itself as a more modern, hipper, and upmarket name, its new flagship eatery, Bombyx, epitomizes this artistic evolution beautifully. At home on the main floor of Siam Paragon, the bijoux dining space is designed in a black box art museum style complete with spotlights and artistic work; ideal for a space with a mall view. The opening exhibition, by renowned Thai abstract artist Ithipol Thangchalok, features prints and printed silk drapes, creating an almost cocoon-like feel overhead, along with artsy table designs that change with each showcase. The year-long installation works beautifully, defining a theatrical style that is reflected so seamlessly in the menu. Dishes are perfected by awardwinning culinary creative Chef Phongsak ‘Gai’ Mikhunthong, who shows as much passion and artistic sensibility as a master designer; creating picture-perfect dishes that are destined to be instant Instagram hits.
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Bombyx serves contemporary Thai dishes with a twist. This is not fusion, but a delicious combination of food and art presented at reasonable prices that are lunch-time friendly. The Yam Tua Plu (B320) is created with scallops to create a pretty and delicately tasty wing bean and chicken salad served with a boiled egg, Kaffir lime and sweet and sour chili dressing. The Meing Tuna Kratong Thong (B350) is a crisp tartlet with tuna sashimi and a bite-size taste sensation that gives the menu a gourmet edge. For mains, Koh Soi Soba Ped Yang (B280) is a delicious take on a North Thailand classic, using curried Japanese soba noodles instead of Thai, and served with a duck egg and grilled duck for an extra lux flavour. The Pla Gra Phong Yang Sauce Saowarod (B350) is a standout dish. The sea bass is grilled beautifully and the salad with passion fruit dressing is gorgeous, healthy and picturesquely divine. The Sac En Chocolat (B320) dessert is a yoghurt-cream and berry delight but way too big. With tamarind taking centre stage in many
dishes, the menu is perhaps a little too sweet in places. The cocktails add to this sweetness but are 5-star, rooftop-bar style quality. Creative concoctions include the heavenly Bombyx Elixir (B280) made with vodka, mulberry shrub, and lavender, and the lovely Rose Cobbler mocktail (B190) with watermelon, lime, and rose lemonade. The dishes at Bombyx taste as if they are classics which should have been around forever, and this is a true sign of culinary artistry at work. The lights may beam down a little too strongly and the hexagonal tables more cool than comfortable, but as Bangkok dining metamorphizes, this is a lovable space keeping the Jim Thompson brand fashionably ahead of the curve. by Nadia Willan
Bombyx
MF, Siam Paragon Mall 991/1 Rama 1 Rd. Open daily: 10am-10pm Tel: 02 129 4840 facebook.com/bombyxbyjimthompson bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
China Table
Asian fare with a definite creative flair
W
hen it comes to Chinese food, we’re spoilt for choice here in Bangkok. But you don’t need to take a tuk-tuk to Chinatown to chow down on chow mein or dine on dim sum. In fact, you can take your Chinese food game to the next level at a spot smack bang in the middle of Sukhumvit Road. Nestled in the Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok hotel sits China Table, a modern restaurant boasting a menu of favourites straight from the land of The Red Dragon. But there’s more than meets the eye at this contemporary Cantonese restaurant. Beyond the traditional bangkok101.com
plates, diners can discover an impressive selection of Asian fare with creative flair, and it’s here that China Table really shines. Through inventive ingredients and innovative pairings, the restaurants reinvents Chinese dining for the next generation. Indeed, some of the plates on the à la carte menu are unlike any Chinese meals I’ve tasted before. Take, for example, the Mushroom Buns with Oyster Sauce (B160). These light, doughy dim sum balls are shaped to look exactly like mushrooms and served atop a rustic slice of wood. They’re as tasty as they are cute,
and take the venue’s offering to Heston Blumenthal levels. The crispy, Spice Taro Slices with Golden Prawn Dumplings (B250) aren’t far behind, with the tackling of this towering dish akin to a game of Kerplunk. For something a little simpler, I recommend the fried chicken cubes with chili and cashew nuts (B350). Great for sharing, this plate of succulent poultry encased in a crispy golden coat pack a spicy punch, but you’ll be hard pressed to not keep going back for more. Similarly, the Shrimp and Pork Dumplings (B120), served in a fragrant tea soup, are deliciously morish. If it’s authentic Chinese cuisine you’re in the mood for, this comforting bowl of oolong tea soup and delicate dumplings is just what the doctor ordered. But the highlight of the menu has to be the juicy Peking Duck (B1,500), especially if you’re dining as a group. Presented to the table in all its gamey glory, the whole roasted duck is first carved and served with steamed pancakes, julienne cucumber, spring onion, and homemade Hoisin sauce. These miniature wraps are sure to delight Western guests used to seeing these on the menu at home. The succulent flesh of the duck is then taken away and either wok fried with bamboo shoots or a black pepper sauce, crispy fried with garlic and chili, or braised with broth and vegetables. Truly making the most of the dish, the Peking duck is excellent value for money. Those with a sweet tooth will be happy to find a dessert that hits the spot too. The crispy Pancakes with Red Date Filling (B260) are a surprising delight. by Annaliese Watkins
China Table
3F, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 89 Sukhumvit Rd. Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 302 3333 www.radissonblu.com AUGUST 2017 | 91
FOOD & DRINK | review
W Does Brunch
Spectacular Sunday spread at The Kitchen Table
I
have to admit, I am extremely weary of brunches at hotels. Not only are most of them generic in their offerings, but often the mood is stiff and the general ambience deprives us of the joy that brunching should bring. But a Saturday afternoon at the W Bangkok hotel makes me seriously question this sentiment. Adding to its iconic quotient of design and style, W gives us a sensory feast with innovative cocktail and culinary offerings, as well as a dose of fashion and music. The ‘W Does Brunch’ concept is fast becoming a quintessential feature at many of W’s properties worldwide, and now locals 92 | AUGUST 2017
can join in on the fun every first and third Saturday of the month at the hotel’s The Kitchen Table restaurant. Right from our arrival, we notice how every detail and element within the restaurant sets the tone for an extraordinary experience. Visually, the sun-lit space, with both indoor and al fresco seating, a warm and inviting ambience thanks in part to rich gold murals and eclectic artwork. Lending the whole place a cool and energetic vibe is a lady DJ spinning lounge music. My friends and I kicked off our ‘Experience Package’ (B2,200++/ B3,100++ including cocktails, wines, and beers) with sparkling wine and a selection of Fine de Claire oysters,
Alaskan king crabs, black mussels, and Manila clams. The W brand takes its cocktail culture very seriously, and it’s no wonder the lay of the land includes a wing dedicated to cocktails, with premium brand stations such as the one from Tanqueray gin where guests can try their Gin Iconic, with a splash of lemon or fresh berries. Other fromthe-bar highlights include the hotel’s signature Woojito (a spin on mojito), Bloody Mary, Pimm’s, sangrias, and mimosas. It is here that we meet Thai artist Chanaradee Chatrakul Na Ayudhya (pictured), whose Spain-inspired illustrations and colourful portraits— part of her Juli Baker & Summer collection—serve as inspiration for the brunch this trimester. Lucky for us, not only do we get to interact with the friendly artist, but also get a personalized sketch (only the first 10 brunchers to arrive get this). We continue our gastronomic journey at the cheese and cold-cut, and sushi stations. A brunch is never complete without a few Bloody Marys, which we enjoyed with a variety of salads—favourite being the Truffle and Mushroom—and the Confit Duck Leg with Yellow Mango. Another refill of the sparkling and we dove right into the hot food station, which included ravioli, foie gras, and the very memorable smoked brisket BBQ and prime ribs. Some four hours later, and almost nearing the end of the brunch hours, we had moved on to mimosas and copious helpings of desserts that were both creative and delectable, while also sending us into a satisfying food coma for the day. by Reena Karim
The Kitchen Table
2F, W Bangkok 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 Brunch from 12:30pm-4:30pm www.whotelbangkok.com bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
Zeta Café
Daily dinner buffet with an alternating food focus
O
n the 8th floor of the Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit guests can enjoy a quick dip in the hotel’s outdoor swimming pool, but they can also tuck into a sumptuous buffet—either at lunch or dinner—at the hotel’s sleek and modern Zeta Café. And one of the nice things about choosing the dinner buffet (B899++ weekdays/B999++ weekends, with reduced pricing for children) is that the food focus changes day by day, so the offerings never get stale. The food themes showcase different countries on weekdays— Italian, Japanese, Mexican, and Chinese, respectively from Monday to Thursday—while Fridays and Saturdays are reserved for BBQ specialties, and Sundays are appropriately titled ‘Oyster and Mussels Mania’. Our visit was on a Wednesday evening, which meant a section of the buffet was given over to zesty chili con carne, tomato tortilla soup, piping hot chicken burritos and quesadillas, and a DIY nachos and taco making station featuring shredded chicken, guacamole, grated cheddar cheese, tomato salsa, sour cream and more. bangkok101.com
But the buffet offerings are not limited to just what coincides with the evening’s theme. A truly international selection of food items is on offer daily, and at the far end of the buffet line there is a sushi and sashimi station (the octopus was delicious), as well as a live grilling station where the chefs cook to order your choice of beef, chicken, pork, or salmon (complete with an array of condiments and gravies). There’s also lots of Thai food on offer, including spicy salads, curries and noodle soups, as well as fresh shrimp, mussels, and oysters on ice, grilled vegetables, a salad bar, a pasta station, and an array of hard and soft cheeses. The dessert selection is also quite varied, with fresh fruit, soft serve ice cream (mix and match your own toppings), and a large selection of cakes, tarts, and other sweets. The carrot cake, chocolate truffle balls, and the cheesecake were definite favourites. Tea, coffee and soft drinks are also part of the set price, but if you want to indulge in some beverages from the bar there is a happy hour from 5pm till
8pm that consists of a buy one get one free deal on cocktails, house wines, and local beers. From the cocktail menu the signature Zeta Cooler (B280) is a soothing blend of vodka, lemon juice, sour mix and chamomile tea, while the yummy Kiwi Mojito (B280), made with Pampero rum, syrup, kiwi, lime, mint, brown sugar, and soda, is decidedly sweeter but equally refreshing. It’s also worth noting that the wine list offers a fairly substantial selection, broken down into new and old world wine categories. With seating for 132, consisting of 96 indoor and 36 outdoor—beside the swimming pool—the Zeta Café provides a spacious, relaxing environment for dinner as well as lunch (when the price is just B599++/ B349++ for children). by Bruce Scott
Zeta Café
8F, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 1, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 683 4888 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.holidayinn.com/hisukhumvit AUGUST 2017 | 93
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Breaking Bread
with Chef Henrik Yde-Andersen Michelin-star culinary creator takes diners on a magical mystery tour
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art of the culinary A-list elite, Chef Henrik Yde-Andersen is the Danish owner of Kiin Kiin in Copenhagen, one of only two Thai cuisine restaurants to earn a Michelin star; a modern-day kitchen maverick and consultant chef at one of the most incredible tables in Bangkok, Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin at the Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok. Forget eating out as simply gourmet dining. Diners are taken on an incredible culinary adventure through a rich and road-less-traveled landscape 94 | AUGUST 2017
where the latest cooking techniques create stunning, contemporary dishes; destinations that are an expression of authentic Thai flavours through the lens of a master culinary wizard. This conceptualized interpretation of Thai cuisine goes way beyond what you may expect from a fine-dining restaurant that looks-wise, at least, fits the image of an upscale hotel eatery. Instead, Henrik’s menu conjures up an edge-of-your-seat performance; a marvellous magic show and thrilling presentation of Asian-inspired food,
modern art, culinary passion, and a mindful approach to the meaning of life that embraces the yin and yang of pure simplicity and indulgent complexity. “We serve some very long tasting menus, so we have to choreograph dinner like a theatre play or film, with different acts,” explains Henrik. “And adding in some humour is essential. You also need science to make sure every dish is perfect, and you should have a sense of kitchen logistics. Many fine dining restaurants are like dining bangkok101.com
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in a church, boring and stiff. I prefer a livelier experience.” The eight-course set-dinner, named ‘The Journey’ (B2,900++), is not only lively; it is absolutely astonishing. The prologue is a cashew nut meringue that magically appears in a tableside magic trick, and tom yam flavoured nuts in a quirky edible pouch. This is followed by a fun street food menu which includes Chiang Mai sausage appearing in a smoking glass dome and tuna tartar served flamboyantly on a lotus flower floating in a glass vase, with seven different bites served—all before the eight courses even begin. To reveal all would be a crime, as part of the unadulterated pleasure is the element of surprise and joyful glee at the cleverness of it all. Suffice to say that a soupçon of Laksa crab soup from Southern Thailand takes you on a seaside island holiday complete with a beach in a coconut shell and a crab ice-cream cone. Egg-yolk dips in ceramic eggs on straw come with a tableside BBQ of grilled squid sticks, while a red curry is given the liquid nitrogen treatment at the table, creating an incredible smoking illusion and transforming a classic hot dish into a chilled gelato style. bangkok101.com
At the heart of his menu in Bangkok, Henrik creates dishes that are not simply deconstructed Thai classics, but reimagined in some way. “I grew up in Scandinavia, so when I taste Thai food, I don’t have a childhood memory of how it should be,” he points out. “I’m not a masochist either, going through life thinking I can become a good Thai chef. I can interpret Thai food though, filter it through myself, and create new Thai pedigree dishes.” Sra Bua is the sister restaurant to Kiin Kiin, with Henrik designing several menus a year in Bangkok after being approached to do so by the Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok. A vacation in Thailand in 2000 led to Henrik spending five years in the country, learning the cuisine before opening one of the best Thai restaurants in the world in his native Denmark. Whilst Henrik may view his discovery of Thai cuisine as destiny, his first foray into cooking was somewhat more precarious. “At 14 I was a very fashionconscious teenager, but my mother didn’t want to buy me the jeans I wanted, so I went to the local restaurant and asked for a job,” he recalls. “I had no interest in cooking
but I liked the atmosphere and decided to take an apprenticeship at a famous hotel. After two weeks I was fired and the head chef told me I would never make it in the restaurant business, so the moral of the story is to never give up!” The menu at Sra Bua includes written tales behind the creation of each dish; a food-journal brought to life by the waiting staff and the food itself. This narrative is more appealing to tourists visiting Thailand wide-eyed with wonder, than seasoned expats or native Thais though and more dramatic tales could add to the experience for those who live their own Thai story. However, diners from home and abroad are undoubtedly taken on a culinary journey that is unique, playful and unexpected; reflecting the intriguing cultural essence of Thailand for all who dine here. For anyone jaded by the glut of gourmet food in Bangkok or who wants to feel genuinely excited by a dining experience, this unsuspecting high-end restaurant takes you through the looking-glass for a few hours into a whole other world. interview by Nadia Willan
www.kempinski.com/bangkok AUGUST 2017 | 95
FOOD & DRINK | street eats
W
Khao Moo Daeng
hen dining along the various sections of Sukhumvit Road, the prices, atmosphere, and even the air change depending on where you sit. But I don’t care about those things so much as the authenticity of the scene and the space. Around Soi Sukhumvit 95/1, just below the Bang Chak BTS station, both daytime and nighttime are equally exciting in the lives of the street-food vendors. This area has, in fact, never been quiet, as it used to be a food hub—a local fresh market. The market has gone, sadly, but the legacy of deliciousness carries on in the area. From the crack of dawn’s light, this soi is busy with people lining up for breakfast—chicken soup noodles on one side, and pork soup with rice on the other. As the sun heads toward to the west, the food and vendors change as the new shift of street food carts replace those of the morning. Many of the foods on offer are those that people can grab and take home for their families, like fried chicken, assorted curries (or kaeng), and the one that my eyes focus on… khao moo daeng. I pick the seat where my back is against the wall, facing the soi traffic. Witnessing the scene like watching a
eat like
Nym
Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. 96 | AUGUST 2017
movie on a life-size screen. My seat is a colourful plastic stool, and while not as romantic as a seat at a Parisianstyle café, it works well on a narrow alley in Bangkok. For those who don’t know, khao moo daeng is rice with red BBQ pork, but it always comes together with moo krob, three layered crispy pork, and kunchiang, Chinese sweet pork sauces. “I’ve made everything myself for 20 years at this same spot,” the owner proudly says. I order khao moo daeng-moo krob-kunchiang and half a duck egg. The colour of the yolk makes me think of an Apperol drink (it’s a very jolly reddish, orange tone). The owner then points me towards the seasoning machine—kreung prung—the four-winged set of condiments which include dark sweet sauce bottle, chili vinegar, dry chili, and spring onion. In fact, I don’t need to jazz my dish up at all, but she seems sure that I should indulge so I let myself try by dropping a little bit of everything on some bites. The result… she was right all along! The first bite of BBQ pork with rice covered with sauce is divine.
Each piece of the BBQ pork is sliced in the perfect thickness and is so tender. Similarly, the crispy pork impresses with its crispy skin continuing to the layers of meat and fat that meld and juxtapose so perfectly. The red sauce on top has a marvelous texture, like a perfect gravy. I give thumbs up to its taste because it’s so well balanced—lightly sweet, salty and creamy. The secret to the rounded taste and harmonized texture of this sauce comes from finely crushed peanuts and sesame seeds added in to the mixture. I save the half duck egg for last as if I want it to be my food decoration. I’m so in love with its Monet-electric orange colour, and head-over-heels for its creamy and gentle taste. It’s special because its smell and taste are so clean, unlike other places that where the impression is just a heavy egg taste. If you go: The owner opens her food cart from around 4pm until 8pm everyday. She hardly smiles but compliments from your satisfaction wouldn’t hurt! bangkok101.com
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FOOD & DRINK | listings
CHINESE Bai Yun
The Chinese outlet with the best view in town and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm,
executed and presented. The dim sum is the obvious place to start, and the signature dishes are serious standouts. 3F, Shangri-La Hotel 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun, 11am-3pm www.shangri-la.com
a tantalizing menu to match (with dishes seldom found elsewhere in Bangkok). 7/F, Ascott Sathorn 187 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 676 6982 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.aldosbistro.com
Chez Pape
The menu brims with traditional French fare, an indulgent roll call of sauces and great bread, seafood, and meat. Those in the mood for a proper French feast won’t be disappointed. 2/7, Soi Sukhumvit 11 Tel: 02 255 2492 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 5pm-11pm www.chezpape.com
FRENCH
Pagoda Chinese Restaurant This upscale venue serves traditional Cantonese cuisine in a spacious, contemporary setting. The menu focuses on healthy dishes, while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.marriott.com
Aldo’s Bistro
Shang Palace
Aldo’s Bistro
The interior is elegant, but more importantly, the food is a glowing reminder of how Chinese food should be
GREEK Avra Greek Restaurant
This superb French restaurant, founded by chef Hervé Frerard, offers a refined and welcoming dining atmosphere, and
Rising from the mid-Sukhumvit culinary clutter like a Parthenon of Hellenic delights, this charming eatery offers an impressively expansive menu that includes all the perennial favourites prepared with thoughtful touches.
ENOTECA Inimitable Italian the only real italian gourmet restaurant
Sukhumvit Soi 27, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok T. 02 258 4386 | F. 02259 9175
Crostini di Pate’ di Fegato di Piccione al Tartufo 98 | AUGUST 2017
www.enotecabangkok.com bangkok101.com
listings | FOOD & DRINK GF, Bangkok Hotel Lotus Sukhumvit 1 Soi Daengudom, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Open: Tue-Fri, noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, Sat-Sun, noon-11pm, Mon, 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 258 2877 www.avrabkk.com
INTERNATIONAL
Bunker
Bunker
From the outside, this three-storey concrete building may look rustic and unfinished; inside however you’ll find contemporary American cuisine with a heavy New York influence being served up. The top-notch ingredients and excellence in execution are really what mark the dishes here.
bangkok101.com
118/2, Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12) Tel: 02 234 7749 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.bunkerbkk.com
Tel: 02 649-8358 Open: Mon-Sat, 6:30pm-9:30pm www.dineinthedarkbangkok.com
Canvas
Serving up artistic masterpieces on a plate, the visionary kitchen team here use mainly local produce and ingredients, conjuring up unique concoctions that give traditional Thai dishes a definite twist. 113/9-10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 099 614 1158 Open: Tue-Thu, Sun, 6pm-midnight, Fri-Sat, 6pm-12:30am Tel: 099 614 1158 www.canvasbangkok.com
Dine in the Dark
The title says it all. Guests experience an exercise in coping by entering a world of total darkness—which both accentuates the flavours of the delicious food, but also gives diners a taste of what it’s like for their visually-impaired servers, who deal with blindness as an everyday fact of life. GF, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd.
Embassy Room
Embassy Room
Ultra-modern and sophisticated this restaurant features an all-day menu of contemporary European cuisine with a definite Asian flair. 9F, The Park Hyatt Bangkok Central Embassy, 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 6am-10:30am, noon-2pm, 6pm-10pm www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com
Gaa
Mumbai-born Garima Arora (formerly of Gaggan) fashions local and homemade
AUGUST 2017 | 99
FOOD & DRINK | listings ingredients into an eclectic and highly personal cuisine inspired by her experiences in five different countries over the last 10 years. 68/4, Soi Langsuan, Ploentchit Rd. Tel: 091 419 2424 Open daily: 6pm-9.30pm www.gaabkk.com
Harvest
Rustic to the core, this wood-decorated venue relies heavily on Mediterranean influences and high-quality seafood. 24, Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 02 262 0762 Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight www.facebook.com/harvestrestaurantBKK
Park Society
Excite both your taste buds and eyes with a cutting-edge, elegant dinner overlooking Lumpini Park and the amazing skyline of Bangkok. Perfect for a romantic evening or a friendly get-together. SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: Kitchen, 6pm-10:30pm, www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com
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Phahonyothin 7 (Corner Soi Ari 4) Tel: 02 619 6886, Open: 6pm-midnight www.saltbangkok.com
Tables Grill Red Oven
Red Oven
Styled as a World Food Market, this 7th-floor all-day dining venue puts a contemporary twist on buffet spreads. On weekends, the restaurant offers an irresistable scrumptious, free-flow wine brunch buffet. 7F, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Sat-Sun Wine Brunch, noon-3pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com
Salt
A hipster’s dream, this gastro bar with a post-modern finish offers everything from fresh sashimi platters to generously-dressed, thin-crust pizzas cooked over a proper wood fire.
The award-winning restaurant features prime-cut steaks and sustainably sourced seafood in an elegantly unique setting that offers a fresh take on a la minute dining. Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Rajdamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 6250 Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30pm10pm, Sunday Brunch: 11am-3pm www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com
Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant
Neither an open-air rooftop bar, nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two milieus. Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com
bangkok101.com
listings | FOOD & DRINK
Wild & Co.
Arguably the most unique restaurant to open so far in 2017, takes the Thai taste for “forest food” and fuses it with the Western yen for grilled meats. In this case the meat happens to be wild or farmed game, for the most part. 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana, Phra Khanong Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.wildnco.com
ITALIAN
Enoteca Italiana Bangkok
Rustic from the barn-like roof to the homemade breads, this place is traditional Italian to the bone. There’s a long list of vino to enjoy, and impeccable a la carte and degustation menus to explore. As authentic as it is delicious. 39, Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 258 4386 Open daily: 6pm-midnight www.enotecabangkok.com
La Bottega di Luca
This elegant Italian eatery, overseen by the ever charming Luca Appino, serves over 15 different kinds of pasta and an array of Italian specialties you won’t find on many other menus. 2F, Terrace 49 Building, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 204 1731 Open: Tue-Sun, 11am-3pm, 5pm-11pm, Mon, 5pm-11pm www.labottega.name/restaurant
Biscotti
Biscotti
Serving up authentic Italian fare since the late ‘90s, this staple on the lunchtime roster for suits and their business partners has grown casual enough to warrant a visit by anyone on any day of the week. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com
Don Giovanni
This trattoria-inspired restaurant offers a menu full of home-style recipes. Along with neoclassical décor, the culinary approach lends this restaurant a decorous air befitting its operatic name. Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao, Bangkok, 1695 Phahonyothin Rd. Tel: 02 541 1234 Open: Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 8pm-10:30pm www.centarahotelsresorts.com
Galleria Milano
An Italian restaurant in the hands of Italians, where the pride is tasted in every bite, serves as the inspiration for a restaurant aiming to conquer the city. 1F, Mille Malle, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Tel: 02 663 4988 Open daily: 3pm-11pm www.millemalle.com bangkok101.com
Pizza Massilia
Pizza Massilia
This gourmet pizzeria strives to combine aspects of French cuisine with traditional Italian tastes. Now with two locations. 15/1 Soi Ruam Ruedi Tel: 02 651 5091 1/8, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 015 0297 www.pizzamassilia.com
JAPANESE Ten-Sui
High-end Japanese restaurants abound in Bangkok, but it’s hard to imagine a more authentic experience than you’ll find at this elegant eatery. 33, Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 088 540 1001 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm www.tensui.co
Utage
This five star hotel’s F&B outlet offers a one-of-a-kind dining experience with AUGUST 2017 | 101
FOOD & DRINK | listings their ‘Atarachi’ brunch (meaning new or fresh). It highlights all the best Japanese delicacies you could possibly desire, such as starters, sushi, sashimi, noodles, teppanyaki, sukiyaki, tempura, and many more. Plaza Athénée Bangkok Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 650 8800 www.plazaatheneebangkok.com
THAI
local products are combined with the brightest passion for hospitality. 1052-1054, Charoen Krung 26 Tel: 087 593 1936 Open: Wed-Mon, 5pm-11:45pm www.facebook.com/8020bkk
65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 259 4089 Open: Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com
Sri Trat
This cozy cafe, suitable for early birds, serves a variety of brunch menus, while the drink menu covers everything from coffee to cold-pressed juices and infused water. 75/1, Sathorn Soi 10 Tel: 02 635 3464 Open daily: 7am-7pm facebook.com/notjustanothercup
This beautifully remodeled houseturned-restaurant offers a taste of Eastern Thailand, a cuisine noted for its abundance of seafood, and the use of fresh fruits and rare herbs. 90, Sukhumvit Soi 33 Tel: 02 088 0968 Open: Wed-Mon, noon-11pm www.facebook.com/sritrat
CAFÉ Baan Rub Rong
Baan Rub Rong
One of the few restaurants in the area that we can confidently say is worth the effort to track down. A plainly attired, affordable bastion of very good Thai food, made the old-fashioned way. 8 Soi Mooban Seri Villa (Srinakarin Soi 55) Tel: 02 185 6029 Open: 10am-10pm www.baanrubrong.com
80/20
Sharing a massive former warehouse with the always-full Old town Hostel, this is the place where the best Thai
Not Just Another Cup
VEGETARIAN
D’Ark
The stylish interior and furnishings embrace a coffee-coloured palette, offset by abstract artwork and tasteful lighting. The coffee machines are manned by world champion baristas and roasters, and the kitchen whips up some amazing Mediterranean-inspired fare (3 locations). EmQuartier, Tel: 02 003 6013 Piman 49, Tel: 02 662 7900 Central Festival EastVille www.darkoffee.com
Kiosk Café
Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boite is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cakeand-chat, or a delicious hot coffee..
Broccoli Revolution
Broccoli Revolution
This veg-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright veggie bites that could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Rd (at Soi 49) Tel: 02 662 5001 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 Facebook: Broccoli Revolution
Carabinero Prawn Risotto
LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant
www.eatmerestaurant.com 102 | AUGUST 2017
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The ingenious gin-masters at Teens of Thailand
| NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE ranking bangkok's best bars
On June 21st the winners of the 2nd annual ASIA’S 50 BEST BARS were announced, creating a definitive ranking of this hemisphere’s most celebrated drinking establishments for 2017. And although Singapore’s Manhattan bar claimed top honours, there were five Bangkok tippling spots on the prestigious list. Highest on the list was the Mandarin Oriental’s BAMBOO BAR (No. 13), followed by BACKSTAGE COCKTAIL BAR (No. 18), Q&A BAR (No. 34), VESPER (No. 40), and TEENS OF THAILAND (No. 46). Almost 200 industry experts from across Asia were asked to cast their votes, resulting in a diverse and eclectic mix of bars representing 14 cities in 10 different countries. The list is produced by William Reed Business Media, the same people behind The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants lists. www.worlds50bestbars.com/asia
craft comes to convent Rejoice, beer geeks… MASH has finally brought the good stuff to Silom. The bar occupies a carefully renovated shophouse (next to Som Tam Hai Convent) and here a well-informed staff serves 16 different beers and ciders on tap—from esoteric brews like Evil Twin’s Biscotti Break, to new releases from Thai brands, including Beat Brewing’s A Go Go IPA. There’s also a range of bottles and cans in the fridge. The design is pretty slick, with two floors filled out in whites and blacks, and brick and marble, and a projector screen displaying the beers on tap against a back wall. There’s food, too, with a menu that tilts toward Americana grub (the American burger is especially tasty). Open Monday to Saturday from 5pm till midnight. www.facebook.com/mashbangkok
let’s get it together With bright neon signs plastered over exposed brick, as well as a pool table and a dartboard, the recently opened REUNION BAR & BISTRO (Thong Lor Soi 10) looks to be going after a retro vibe reminiscent of dive-bars you’d find in New York’s East Village—which is a definite departure from the tone of the rest of Thong Lor. The menu boasts creative drinks and inventive food items—all at relatively affordable prices—the venue also offers live music every night of the week as well. Open Wednesday to Sunday, from 6pm till midnight. www.facebook.com/pg/reunion55
any way you slice it For those familiar with MUSTACHE, the long-running, all-night underground dance club on Ratchadapisek Soi 7, you’ll be pleased to know that plans are underway to open an upstairs dining venue in the same spot this month. Imaginatively titled LA PIZZA, the venue—which is set to take over the rooftop of Mustache—will be offering classic Italian pizzas in a casual open-air dining setting. And if you’re in the area on August 5th, swing by for their opening party, featuring free pizza and an open bar 7pm and 9pm, as well as DJs and a live band. www.facebook.com/lapizzabangkok
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NIGHTLIFE | review
The Bar(s) at Park Hyatt This landmark hotel’s long-awaited drink spots hit the mark
I
t took a few more years for the Park Hyatt Bangkok to open than maybe anyone imagined, but it’s finally here. All those discreet touches and upmarket amenities now exist in a realm beyond gossip and mock-ups. Speaking of gossip, there had been a lot of rumours swirling around the bars, including talk of a high-floor spot that would evoke the Park Hyatt Tokyo’s New York Bar (the jazz bar featured in the 2003 film Lost in Translation). After a gradual rollout, all the hotel’s venues have opened, and there’s no denying the wait for them was worthwhile. While the “Bill Murray bar” got the pre-launch attention, the hotel ended up unveiling a lounge bar on the 10th floor first. Fittingly called The Bar, the space features all the brand’s trademarks: marble fittings, a black and gold colour scheme, and understated local touches in the form of artwork adorning the walls. The interior is warm, quiet, and inviting— the archetype of a bar you would belly up to after work or a long flight, but the downright brilliant drinks make it worth visiting on any occasion. 106 | AUGUST 2017
Designed by Kieren James, of Hyde & Seek fame, the cocktails here revolve around the classics. Churchill’s Secret (B420)—a mix of 420 Rebel Yell Small Batch Rye, H by Hine VSOP Cognac, pear eau de vie, and Angostura bitters—is basically an upscale Old Fashioned. It has the perfect bite and a beautiful fruity aroma that provides balance and complexity. The 1605—featuring Nusa Caña rum from Bali, Giffard Triple Sec, pineapple and lime juices, homemade toffee syrup, egg white, and a garnish of burned star anise for aroma— travels through many strata of scents and tastes, shifting from sweet to sour to rich (B360). The Ambassador (B290), meanwhile, features sweet Thai basil, guava juice, and pineapple syrup in what might be a nod to The Last Word. In any case, it’s sweet, sour, and delicious. If you’re after cinematic reference points, head to The Penthouse (open daily from 4:30pm till midnight). The 35th-floor bar does indeed have the ebony chairs, walnut touches, and floor-to-ceiling windows that distinguish that aforementioned
bar in Tokyo, but the mood is much livelier. You won’t hear live jazz, but rather disco, soul, and hip hop from the DJ stationed above the booze shelf. The cocktails are a shade smaller than The Bar’s, and overall they gravitate toward the sweet side, but they’re also quite unique. A fine example is The Reverent (B360), a mix of whisky, amaretto, Fernet-Branca, and maple syrup. The Penthouse has a Thong Lor vibe, and that’s great, but if you want quiet, you’ll find it in the unmarked whisky room (located on the same floor at the far end). Decorated with Indonesian artefacts and a wall of rare whiskies from around the world, this is the place to escape to when you want to “make it Suntory time”, metaphorically speaking. by Craig Sauers
The Bar
10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Open daily: 7am-midnight Tel: 02 012 1234 www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com bangkok101.com
review | NIGHTLIFE
CRU Champagne Bar L
Liquid luxury taken to another level
ast year, we witnessed what might have been the dawn of a surreal new trend, when two bars backed by single champagne brands opened on the rooftops of upscale hotels—luxury taken to new heights, if you will. Who knows if more ever were on the way? There aren’t many spots available 60 floors up, and the concept was sort of teetering on the brink of faddishness anyway. One of the two, CRU Champagne Bar, confronted the latter dilemma, though, finding creative ways to be something more than a champagne or rooftop bar alone. CRU, a G.H. Mumm Bar, stands at the summit of Centara Grand at CentralWorld hotel. This open platform clearly had a lot of unrealized potential before it was renovated to fit a private deck, dozens of tables, and a circle-shaped showpiece bar. The whole space can seat 70, and when the weather is pleasant or party season is upon us, it’s easy to picture CRU packed. To be fair, every rooftop bar gets crowds for sundowners, not unlike street stalls at lunch hour. But bangkok101.com
CRU’s almost beach club-like vibe gives it a more enduring appeal. The soundtrack tilts toward the style of house music often associated with lapping waves and starry skies. Never mind that stars never appear above Bangkok—the music has a sedative effect. Enhancing this feat are the cocktails. Many incorporate G.H. Mumm champagne, like the easydrinking, beach-worthy Grand Jardin 59 (B899), a blend of Havana 7 rum, pink guava juice, sugarcane juice, and bubbly. It’s served in a basket with a bouquet of lavender, lending it a floral aroma (over-the-top presentation is the standard here). The Matador (B550) also features champagne, which leavens what is otherwise a margarita—Olmeca tequila, Cointreau, lime, and fresh pineapple juice—but let the ice melt a bit to cut the tartness. For a more overtly tropical taste, there’s the Alchemist Punch (B899), a mojito-like concoction (sans champagne) served in a fierce-faced little tiki cup hand-carved from Balinese wood. Tapas provide a nice foil to the
cocktails. It’s hard to beat an order of fresh Kumamoto Oysters (B799), or smoked Balik Salmon (B265), but the excellent Wagyu and Foie Gras (B1,150) steals the show. Champagne isn’t limited to mixed drinks, either (…obviously). CRU stocks a great selection of bubbles, including G.H. Mumm No1 Pink, a pleasant rosé with a sweet, dry finish made from a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay grapes. This champagne, exclusive to CRU, makes for a special treat at sunset—at B899 a glass and B5,400 a bottle, make that very special—or even after that. The hotel’s trademark arches slowly shift colours long into the night, the light display kind of like its own self-perpetuating sunset, so there’s never any reason to rush. by Craig Sauers
CRU Champagne Bar
59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com AUGUST 2017 | 107
NIGHTLIFE | review
Flava Bar & Lounge Taking advantage of Bangkok’s longest happy hour
F
or those of us who like nothing more than to relax and unwind with a well-crafted cocktail in a glamorous location, Bangkok is a city with more than its fair share of venues designed to bewitch patrons with a yen for the finer things in life—and Flava Bar & Lounge at the Dream Hotel is no exception. Taking its visual cue from the private wet bar of legendary British fashion designer Paul Smith, Flava’s interior matches leather furniture, twinkling striped walls, and a pair of, what the hotel describes as, “kooky pink leopard statuettes” in an artful and restrained manner, which belies its description. It’s also a favourite location for many a Thai pop video and TV show, including The Cupids, Club Friday, and the promo for Yah-Plaew, the latest jam from Yayaying Rhatha Phongam (who starred in the 2013 film Only God Forgives). Taking advantage of what Flava calls ‘Bangkok’s Longest Happy Hour’ (5pm till midnight, seven days a week), my guest and I settled down for an
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evening of tasty snacks and pleasantly boozy beverages, opening with a pair of aperitifs. We opted for Gone Feral (B250) a blend of fresh watermelon, Limoncello, Martini Bianco, Finlandia vodka, lime juice, and torn basil leaves which, despite its ferocious name, is a well-balanced and refreshing drink ideal for cooling down on a sultry summer’s evening; and Blue Dream (B250), where Finlandia vodka, blue curaçao, apple juice, sweet and sour syrup, and lemon, meet to form a delicious concoction reminiscent of blueberry bubble gum–but in a way devised to appeal to the savoury palate, as well as a sweet tooth. Our food choices, the meaty New York Beef Burger (B350) and BBQ Pork Skewer (B330), arrived at the same time as our second round. This time I upped the ante with the Casino Martini (B300), bar manager Sunthorn ‘Lek’ Pancae’s take on a classic, made from Gordon’s gin, Finlandia vodka, vermouth and finished with a lemon twist. It’s a less herbal version of the famous cocktail, but still just as inviting.
My guest went for the Sly Thai (B250), another signature of Lek’s, which mixes Finlandia vodka and Limoncello, shaken with muddled lime and then finished with a lychee garnish. It went down so well with the both of us we ordered another… just to make sure. Overly protective of her new favourite drink, my guest urged me to try Mai Tai (B250) and I was not disappointed. This subtlety sweet combo of Pampero Blanco rum, Captain Morgan dark rum, almond orgeat and orange curaçao, is here topped with pineapple juice, which gives this tiki tipple a satisfying citrus kick—more than worthy of the Tahitian phrase Maita’i roa ae (“out of this world!”) for which it was named. by Alastair Newport
Flava Bar & Lounge
2F, Dream Hotel 10, Sukhumvit Soi 15 Open daily: 5pm-midnight Tel: 02 254 8500 www.dreamhotels.com/bangkok bangkok101.com
NIGHTLIFE | listings
BAR amBar
Located on the 8th floor rooftop of the Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, this pool bar offers an inviting and relaxed lounge atmosphere. Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi15 Tel: 02 309 3288 Open daily: 4pm-midnight www.ambarbangkok.com
Chez Jay Tapas Bar
Those who miss the beloved Bellino Wine Room take note, the same amazing selection of wines, cocktails, plus a menu of easy to share tapas, is available at this stylish outdoor space where owner Jay Boccia has set up shop. The garden setting, accented with vintage furniture and featuring a 200-year-old wooden bar, attracts the local film industry and advertising crowd both at lunch and after work. 49 Terrace, Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 010 1852 Open: Mon-Sat, noon-2:30pm, 6pm-late www.facebook.com/49terrace
Duke
Although it’s in a mall, this high-end whisky and cigar lounge—full to bursting with paintings and sculptures—feels more like a SoHo warehouse loft space owned by an eccentric millionaire. 1F, Gaysorn Village 999 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 094 647 8888
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Open daily: 11am-midnight facebook.com/pg/duke.gaysorn
Gypsy Spells Bar
A themed bar, focusing on fortune telling and Thai legends, offers a unique cocktail menu, as well as live gypsy jazz music on Friday nights and blues on Saturdays. 2, Sukhumvit Soi 29 Tel: 02 662 3060 Open daily: 5:30pm to midnight www.mahanaga.com
Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar
A world-class wine bar that isn’t just all about wine. Offering 40 wines to choose from as well as some exciting options for the non-wine-inclined, while refined, rustic European cuisine is served up tapas-style for social dining. 2F, Gaysorn Plaza 999 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1133 Open daily: 11am-midnight www.riedelwinebarbkk.com
Touché Hombre
This hugely popular Mexican bar and restaurant offers curious customers a chance to sample the finest mezcals and top-end tequilas, as well as superb Mexican-inspired dishes. 2F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7760 Open daily: 6pm-1am (Fri-Sat till 2am) www.touchehombre.com
Vogue Lounge J. Boroski Mixology
J. Boroski Mixology
A secret bar, built by masterful mixologist Joseph Boroski, who creates drinks to reflect a customer’s specifications or, if you’re lucky, according to his own whims. Ask someone “in-the-know” to reveal the exact location. Sukhumvit Soi 55 (secret location) Tel: 02 712 6025 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.josephboroski.com
This restaurant is established under the umbrella of Vogue magazine, and the menu and kitchen are under the direction of Vincent Thierry, a master of his trade and former chef at the threeMichelin-starred Caprice restaurant in Hong Kong. The menu is small and most dishes are designed as nibbles to be enjoyed over a few drinks. MahaNakhon Cube, Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. Tel: 02 001 0697 Open daily: 10am-late www.voguelounge.com
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listings | NIGHTLIFE
ROOFTOP SKY BAR
Char
Char
Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok
Cielo Sky Bar
A rooftop bar, with a business-casual ambiance and unbeatable views of Bangkok, serving a wide-ranging and impressive list of cocktails at fair prices. 46F, Sky Walk Condominium, Sukhumvit Soi 69 Tel: 02 348 9100 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.cieloskybar.com
Mojjo
This elegantly appointed sky-high, Latinflavoured cocktail joint offers guests exceptional views. Light meals are also on offer to accompany evening tipples.
32F, Compass SkyView Hotel 12, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 011 1111 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/mojjoloungebar
39-40F, Sathorn Square Complex 98 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 108 2000 Open daily: 12pm-late www.celavi.com
Sky On 20
Mixx Discotheque
At this stylish rooftop venue, the food and drink prices don’t rise higher as the floors ascend. Instead, they stay within the realm of the reasonable, making it a great spot to watch the sun go down over downtown Bangkok. Novotel Bangkok Sukhumvit 20 26F, 19/9, Sukhumvit Soi 20 Open: Mon-Sat, 5pm-2am, Sun, 4pm-2am Tel: 02 009 4999 www.facebook.com/skyon20bangkok
Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House— decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade, 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok
CLUB 8 on Eleven
A gastro bar with a modern industrial twist and a 2nd floor dance area, this nightlife venue offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes with a modern twist. 14, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 093 421 1991 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/8oneleven
Cé La Vi
One of Bangkok’s top nightlife venues, this is a vast and glittering club with skyscraper ceilings and a long window that affords an exceptional view.
Onyx
Onyx
An upscale nightclub borrowing from the futuristic interiors of other outlets in the milieu. It’s laid out over two stories, with most of the action confined to the ground floor. RCA, Soi Soonvijai, Rama 9 Rd. Tel: 081 645 1166 Open daily: 8pm-2am www.onyxbangkok.com
www.labottega.name T. +6622041731 labottegabangkok
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bottegabkk
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NIGHTLIFE | listings
PUBS Mulligan’s Irish Bar
A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com
romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com
The Penalty Spot
The crowds that form here come mostly to check out live sports on TV, drink beer on draft, and watch the passing parade from the front window of this cozy pub. 507-511 Sukhumvit Rd. (near Soi 29) Tel: 02 661 6164 Open daily: 3pm-2am www.facebook.com/thepenaltyspot
LIVE MUSIC Bamboo Bar
A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless,
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Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/blackcabinbar
Queen Bee
A great place to hang out and meet up with friends while enjoying great live music. Come play some pool and check out some of Bangkok’s best rock’n’roll and blues cover bands. 25/9, Sukumvit Soi 26 Tel: 092 446 4234 Open: 10:30am-2am www.facebook.com/QueenBeeBangkok
The Zuk Bar Black Cabin
Black Cabin
Half the space at Wild & Co. restaurant is given over to this brick-walled pub which eschews the mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists.
The ideal place for aperitifs or after dinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view, and enjoy live jazz by Coco Rouzier, Wednesday to Saturday nights and during the weekly Sunday brunch. The Sukhothai Bangkok, 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 8888 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.sukhothai.com
bangkok101.com
Art and inspiration thrive at ChangChui
| LIFESTYLE
LIFE+STYLE the mother of all markets What was once an old landfill in Thonburi, has been transformed into the ‘creative village’ of CHANGCHUI. Brainchild of SOMCHAI SONGWATTANA (also behind fashion brand Flynow), this 11rai space on the border of Bangkok and Nonthaburi aims to showcase the work of young artists and designers, and appropriately features an art gallery, co-working space, private museum, theatre, cinema, design studio, exotic garden, vintage barber, tea house, several cafés, restaurants, and food trucks, plus plenty of music, book, and clothing stores across 18 separate buildings made from reused materials. Did we mention it also boasts an old airplane that is being transformed into a luxury dining room and bar? Open daily from 11am-11pm. www.changchuibangkok.com
calling all artists Thai contemporary art is getting catapulted onto the global stage with the recent announcement that the first ever BANGKOK ART BIENNALE is due to take over the city from November 2018 to February 2019. And while that seems like a long way off, organizers are currently running an open call for local and international artists—from now until the end of September—and the shortlist of exhibiting artists is expected to be confirmed by the end of January, 2018. The Italian term biennale translates to “every other year”, and is commonly used to describe large-scale recurring international contemporary art exhibitions (as popularized by the world-famous Venice Bienniale). www.bkkartbiennale.com
kickin’ in khao san People of Khao San Road… forget those elephant pants and don your boxing gloves, because JAREONTHONG MUAYTHAI KHAOSAN indoor gym has just opened on Tanee Road, in the middle of the popular tourist area. Established by Muay Thai Legend JAROENTHONG KIATBANCHONG, this is the newest branch of string of training facilities located around Thailand, including Koh Samui, Khao Lak, Ranong, and Phuket. The Bangkok location boasts a rooftop training area with a perfect view of Wat Chana Songkram temple and Bangkok’s Old Town. The courses, including ancient Muay Thai and Muay Thai Waikru classes, vary from beginner to advanced. Drop-in class fees are B600 for 1.5 hours, or B1,200 for a private session. Classes run daily from 10am to 9pm. www.jaroenthongmuaythaikhaosan.com
get messy in the attic With trained artists at the helm, ATTIC STUDIOS provides specialist art classes for both adults and children (above the age of five years) in a variety of media. No matter your skills, or what level you are at, this studio aims to teach you artistic technique while encouraging self-expression—allowing you to go wild and just have fun. Classes on offer include: beginner drawing and painting art classes; children and teen art classes; one-night BYOB painting art classes; and private art lessons. While the main branch is located in Sukhumvit Soi 31 (open daily from 10am to 4pm) a second branch is opening soon in the seaside town of Rayong. www.attic-studios.com
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LIFESTYLE | spa products for mother‘s day
Antioxidant-rich Skin Products That Mom Will Love In support of Northeastern (Isaan) products, the Nuaynard skincare line is Thai-made and uses spring water and rainwater gathered from a hill at Ban Sap Si Chan Village, Nakhon Ratchasima (the aim is to help decrease forest destruction). All products are made with natural ingredients and are strictly free of palm oil, SLS, SLES, paraben, and fragrances.
Nam Ob Thai Floral Perfume
This traditional Thai perfume is made with boiled rainwater from the Ban Sap Si Chan Village, along with herbs that keep you cool, such as pandanus and Madagascar jasmine (known for its antioxidant and antibacterial properties). Tree bark essential oils, forest flowers (such as cedar wood, geranium, frankincense, and eucalyptus), and Thai scented candle smoke are combined and added to the perfume for a floral scent. Strictly made without any alcohol or preservatives, this product is perfect to use as a perfume, a cooling balm, or add some to your bath water to help you relax at the end of a long day. This product is priced at B295 for a 60ml bottle and is available at Siam Discovery, Siam Center, Organic Supply, The Wild Tree, Abracadabra, Hanabachi BKK, Punsuk Organic, NhaPha Khao Yai, and Premium Outlet Phuket. www.nuaynardhandcraft.com.
Patom is a body care brand that focuses on using certified organic ingredients to promote sustainability and a balanced way of life. The raw materials are either homegrown at the company’s farm, or sourced from a network of local organic farmers in Nakhon Pathom. Combining traditional wisdom and modern methods, theses raw materials are turned into high quality natural body care products in their on-site factory.
Lemongrass Shower Gel
This fragrant shower gel is made mainly of lemongrass water distilled from organic lemongrass which is grown and planted by local organic farmers in Suan Sampran—an organic farm certified by IFOAM standards. The presence of lemongrass essential oil in the lemongrass water inhibits growth of the fungus that causes dermatitis. The strong scent of lemongrass also help leaves you feeling refreshed and relieves muscular fatigue. Added natural ingredients such as coconut oil with vitamin E rejuvenates and nourishes to the skin, while turmeric extracts inhibit bacteria and reduce inflammation of the skin, and Bai-Ya-Nang Juice (tiliacora triandra), rich in antioxidants, revatilizes the skin. The Lemongrass Shower Gel is priced at B350 for 300ml and is available at Patom Organic Living and Sampran Riverside. www.facebook.com/patom.organics
To celebrate Mother’s Day, Ryn has introduced its latest collection, The Wanderlust Garden Collection. Derived from balanced combinations of jasmine and rosemary, this collection aims to prevent aging and sagging skin. While the jasmine extracts moisturize the skin and return its flexibility, the rosemary extracts boost collagen production.
The Wanderlust Garden Body Oil (3 in 1)
Using concentrated oils rich in antioxidants, this body oil prevents the advancement of wrinkles and moisturizes the skin, keeping it firm and youthful. The power of almond and jojoba oil, along with the vitamin C in rice bran oil, rejuvenates and nourishes the skin, and activates skin cells through CoQ10 adoption (to build collagen). The Wanderlust Garden Body Oil is for normal to dry skin and can be massaged in after a shower or added to your bathwater. This product is priced at B1,500 and is available at Siam Paragon, EmQuartier—The Helix Quartier, Gaysorn Village, Anantara Baan Rajprasong Bangkok Serviced Suites, Coincidence—GMM Grammy Place, Statement, Humming Lifestyle Salon, and Hotel Grand Mercure Phuket Patong. www.rynspaproducts.squarespace.com
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spa review | LIFESTYLE
O
Well Hotel Spa
n the 7th floor of the awardwinning Well Hotel Bangkok on Sukhumvit 20, sits the city-chic Well Hotel Spa—where the service is discretion-friendly, the interior is understated luxury, and attention to detail is found in the fashionable décor of limed wood and muted hues. I arrive for the signature Well Stress Relief Massage which is B2,000 for one hour (or B2,500 for the deluxe 90-minute version), and relax on the sofa as I’m offered fresh roselle juice and a cold pressed hand towel. One of the therapists brings a tray of natural essential oils and asks me to choose two from an impressive selection. The aromatherapy on the menu has the power to de-stress, detox, and boost the immune system. They can also ease common complaints like sunburn, jet lag, and—for party revellers—a hangover. I decide on lavender; a blend that slows aging, improves sleep, and reduces stress, and combine this with orange; to detoxify, boost immunity, and relax. The treatment room is an integrated, interior designed “suite”, with couple’s massage beds and a chrome, claw-foot and porcelain bangkok101.com
slipper bathtub that leads to an en-suite shower room. There are twin tub chairs, and a washbowl of floating flower petals with fragrant bergamot slices added to the foot soak. I relax back in my waffle robe and dunk my feet. Lemongrass infused salt crystals are poured into the footbath and my soles are exfoliated, washed, and patted dry. Khun Kate enquires what type of pressure massage would I prefer... gentle, medium or hard? I ask for medium before de-robbing, and lying tummy-down. The masseuse gives her undivided attention, as her hands work wonders on my upper and lower back, arms, hands, legs, tummy, shoulders, neck, and temples. Khun Kate comes with many years of experience, she has an intuition and hands that locate where knotted muscles harbour and tension lies. Soothing music is playing in the background and the hour floats by. With a whisper in my ear, I’m asked to sit for the final shoulder-easing rub. There is a timeless quality with Khun Kate, she is without hurry or haste as she discreetly slips out of the room and patiently waits to escort me back. As we make our way back to the refreshments waiting in reception, I
feel so well... so noticeably different (to arriving)... and so revitalized. An hour works wonders, and Well treatments are the remedy for those short on time. But if it’s a ‘Rainy Day Pamper’ or a ‘Spa Buffet’ of treatments you’re looking for, Well offers ultimate pampering packages, including a Well Spa Membership with a bounty of benefits for B10,500, special monthly promotions, and their excellent weekend ‘happy hours’ with 50 percent off treatments on the regular menu, between 10am and 3pm. As any Thailand resident will testify, “there are generic massages... and then there are memorable massages”, like this one. And it’s no surprise Khun Kate is in demand with regular Well Spa clients. It’s rare you find a really special spa therapist that rejuvenates you from head-to-toe in a short space of time. And if one hour feels this good, then three hours must be heaven. by Sara Honeybell
Well Hotel Bangkok 10/3 Sukhumvit Soi 20 Tel: 02 127 5995 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.wellhotelbangkok.com
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SIGNING OFF | did you know?
Photo by Ben Zander Photography
D
id you know that the majority of the world’s oceanic plastic waste comes from just five countries, one of which is Thailand, who contributes over one thousand tons per year? To help change that, Bangkok-based fashion photographer Ben Zander is currently raising funds to buy paper bags for 7-Elevens across the country and create awareness about plastic waste through his #deathbyplastic campaign. With the help of key public figures and Thai celebrities, Zander is shooting a series of photographs, each in an environmentally significant location in Thailand. Award-winning international Thai fashion designer Ek Thongprasert has also come on board and will be styling the models with his Curated collection throughout the series. Each photograph will then be printed, framed, and showcased in an exhibition where they will be sold. All proceeds will go towards buying the paper bags, while
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extra donations raised throughout the campaign will be used to send the exhibition around the country. Various levels of Thai government officials have also shown their concern of the growing plastic problem and in turn granted Zander and his team access to heavily polluted areas. Zander has already photographed world-class Muay Thai fighter Buakaw Banchamek, Penny J. Lane from The Face Thailand (pictured), and MC Dandee from the Bangkok Invaders Crew, in three different locations, and is currently trying to raise B400,000 to complete the series and shoot seven more celebrities in seven new locations. Short documentaries and behind-the-scenes videos from each photoshoot will also be released throughout the campaign and can be viewed online. For more information, or to donate, visit www.benzander.com/deathbyplastic.
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